American Woodworker 156

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With Freud's ew Premier

Adjustable Rail & Stile System


Now with Freud's new, patented Premier Adjustable Rail and Stile router bit system, you are able to build
any style of cabinet door in a wide range of door thicknesses and sizes! This extremely easy-to-use
solution gIVes you unlimited creative freedom, and solves the long-standing limitations of existing frame
and panel door construction.

This one of a kind solution allows you to create extended tenons for extra door jOint strength, adjust
groove Width for different panel thicknesses and choose from a variety of material thicknesses for
your stiles and rails (518' to 1-1 /4' ). Optional add-on cutters increase your bits' capabilities
even more, allowing you to create glass panel and double sided profile doors.

Four profiles are available; Round Over (#99-760), Ogee (#99-761 ),


Round Over Bead (#99-763), and Bevel (#99-764).

Preclael, Ibe bul.


Standard Extended tenons Glass & Double Sided
stub tenons for strong joints screen panel Profiles in
To find more information, please go to:
in regular 3/4" in larger doors capability thick stock www.freudtools.com/PremierRailandStile
stock

Others r----liFreud' New Premier Rail & Stile Systewmt----,


pp"
Ali-.erican
Woodworker. #156, October/November 2011

Features
30 Box-Beam Bench
A master's bench that anyone can build.

39 Knockdown Trestle Sawhorses


Simple design. Sturdy construction.

42 Wooden Tail Vise


Upgrade your bench and your woodworking
by adding a classic vise.

50 Precision Drill Press Table


For accurate drilling, build an
engineered table.

54 Ultimate Lathe Stand


Build a professional-quality stand
that's stable, strong and heavy.

58 Dust-Collection Cabinet
Build a versatile and economical solution
for controlling workshop dust.

Departments
8 Workshop Tips

14 Well-Equipped
Shop

20 A Great American
Woodworker

24 Turning Wood

28 MyShop

24 66 Oops!

1ssuo1156.Amoncon_. ~1074-9152). Pui>lllll<dbomonlhlyl¥-.g-.uc.90ShonNn


5t. UmbncI!It. MA 02140. _ _ poId It _ MA rd _ _ ..-.g oIIIces. POSTMAmR , SoI'd
chonge d -.os """"" to AmonGon _ . P.o. .... 420235. P..... C..... Fl 32142-0235. s.bocnpoon ,._
us. .-.-. $24. . SongIKopy. $5.99. Unodo.-.-. $29.91. SongIKopy 56.99 (U.s. Fundst GST. R122'l11611 .
foreign surfoct . - . -. $29.91 (U.s. Funds). us _stone! _ _ I¥ CLW1iJ CircuIodon Ccmpony. uc. Now
20
MiIfotd. NJ 07_ Unodo,.,.. _ Mol ~ 41525524. Unodo - . . SoI'd-'
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dIongos .. Amorbn _ . PO .... 456. ~ F.... ON l2f 6V2. SoI'd ........ rd - . dIongos 10
AmonGon_. P.o. ""42023S. PoImCoool. Fl32142-0235. Printed., U5A. C 2010 Nowl_ _ u.c.foI.
rIghts--

4 &mericaJlWooclworlter.com OCTOIU / NOVEMIU lOll


Nature has something to tell you .

Than k S . The more efficient a system, the less fuel it uses and the better it is
for the environment. ENERGY STARe- qualified York Affinity'" Furnaces have an
off-the-charts efficiency rating of up to 98%~ As a matter of fact, the York Affinity
Modulating Furnace is the most efficient gas-fired residential furnace on the market
today. Rather than simply switching on or off, it works like a dimmer switch-evenly
replacing the amount of heat leaving the home and automatically adjusting itself to
maintain the desired temperature setting . Quiet, eco-friendly Affinity systems save
energy, money and the planet. Now that feels nice. Contact your local York Dealer
for any additional offers at 800-91 O-YORK.

UP TO $500 FEDERAL TAX CREDITr*


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Ofler expires 12/31/11.

The eco-friendly York Affinity Series Furnaces. ilYORK-


It's time to get comfortable:
An1.erican
More On the Web at AmericanWoodworker.com Woodworker.#156, October/November 2011

EDITORIAL
Editor In Chief Randy Johnson
Editor Tom Caspar
Senior Editor Tim Johnson
Contributing Editors Spike Carlsen
Brad Holden
Alan Lacer
Suwat Phruksawan
David Radtke
Office Administrator Shelly Jacobsen

ART. DESIGN
Art Director Joe Gohman
Director of Photography Jason Zentner

Torsion Beams All About Vises VICe PresidentlProductlon Barbara Schmitz


They're incredibly strong, but lightweight. What kind of vise is right for your bench? Production Manager Michael J. Rueckwald
Get free plans at Find out at Systems engineer Denise Donnarumma
V.P. Consumer Marketing Nicole McGuire
AmericanWoodworker.comlWebExtras AmericanWoocIworker.comlWebExtras Newsstand Consultant TJ Montilll
Online Subscription Manager Jodllee
New Business Manager Joe Izzo
Assistant Marketing Manager Hannah di Cicco
Renewal and Billing Manager Nekeya Dancy
Renewal and Billing Associate Adriana Maldonado

ADVERTISING SALES
12B5 Corporate Center Drive, Suite 180, Eagan, MN 55121
Brl.n Zlft, bziff4MmericanWoodworker.com
office (203) 5()9.()12S
SUSiln T.uster, stauste"A~rkanWoodwork~.com
offICe (630) B58-1SS8, ce" (630) 336-0916, fax (630) 858-1510

Tim Henning. thenningtoAmericanWoodworker.com


office (708) 606-3358, fax (866) 496-2376

NEW TRACK MEDIA LLC


Chief Executive OffICer Stephen J. Kent
Executive VICe President/CFO MarkF. Arnett
Vice President/Publishing Director Joel P. Toner

Customer Service
Wooden Plates SketchUp Plans Subscription/Billing Questions
Learn how to make them at To download free plans for our Onlln.: www.AmericanWoodworker.com/Sublnfo
Em.lI: e-mail awwserviceOAmericanWoodworker.com
AmericanWoodworker.comlWebExtras knockdown sawhorses, go to Phon. : US ..... CWdo (BOO) 666-3111,1ntomotooNl (Sl S) 462-S394
PI".r mill: American Woodworker Subscriber Service Dept.
AmericanWoodworker.comlWebExtras P.O. Box 42023S, Palm Coas~FL 3214H)235.
Back Issues
Some are available for 56.99 each, plus shipping and handling.
Order at www.awbool<store.comlmagazines
Contact the editors
Workbench Tour Em.lI: aweditorOAmericanWoodworker.com
Phon.: (952) 948-5890, Fax (952) 948-5895
Get a closer look at our Box Beam Bench (p. 30), with the storage option, at P.".r m.lI: 1285 Corporate Center Drive,
Suite 180, Eagan, MN 55121 .
AmerkanWoodworlcer.comIWebExtras
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I II I I I I I _an ~mayshare information about you with repu-

table companies in order for them to ofII!r you products and SI!fVI(@S

Gluing Tips 01 inlen!St to you f you woukl rather we not share infamation, please
write to us at AmerDn Woodwcx1c«, Customer SeMce Departmen~
P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coas~ Fl32142-Q235. Please include a copy
We've got a bunch of useful tips on spreading glue at 01 your address label.

a.ricanWoodworlcer.comIWebExtras Subscribers: Wthe Post Office alerts us that your magazine is


undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive
I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I a corrected address within one year.
No part of this publication may be reproduced by any mechani-

Find us on: facebook. Follow us on: twi r cal, photographic. or electronIC process, nor may it be stored in
a retrieval system, transmitted, or otherwise copied (with the
exception of one-tifTle'. non-commercial, personal U~) without
written permission from the publisher.

6 JlmerlcaaWoodworker.com OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 101 1


Workshop Tips Clever Ideas From Our Readers

nex-head bolts
• One piece of 1" square steel tubing
• One piece of 3/S" round steel rod
• Four SIS" nuts
A handful of 3/4" 8-32 flat-head
machine screws.

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8 AmericUlWoodworker.c:om OCTOIU / NOVEMIER 20 1 1
Front Vise
Using the same Quick-release mechanism as our tail vise, our front vise has a
simple on-off cam lever to engage or disengage the Acme-threaded screw,
allowing ~ to apply up to 400 Ib of force in either clamping or spreading applications.
The screw mechanism provides 12114 " of overall travel (less the thickness of
your wooden jaw and bench apron). Tight body
tolerances resutt in minimal jaw sag, even at full
extension. An extruded aluminum screw cover
keeps debris out of the screw mechanism and
prevents the workpiece from contacting the
lubricated screw. Straightforward to install in new
construction or as a retrof~ to an existing bench,
the vise requires an unobstructed
mounting area on the underside of the
bench top at least 12 " wide by 16"
deep (with a 2" thick bench apron and
a 13/4" thick jaw). The body is ductile iron
with zinc-alloy endplates, steel shafts and guide
rods, and a maple handle. Mounting instructions and
hardware included. Made in Canada. Patent pending.
Available separately, the optional pair of top-grain leather jaw
liners serves to pad the vise jaws, helping to improve their grip as well
as reduce workpiece marTing. Measuring 20 " wide by 5" tall, the liners are
shaped to f~ this front vise, but can be used with any front vise mechanism with
guide rods 10"apart or less. Installation instructions included.
05G34.01 Quick-Release Front Vise $289.00
05G34.03 Leather Jaw Uners, set of 2 $ 19.50
Quick-Release Front Vise
Workshop Tips continued

Speed-Square Assembly
I FOUND YET ANOTHER USE for my tru ty peed quare.
Ju t damp one or two of them in ide the comers of
Centerline Marker a cabinet when you're gluing it up. This guarantee
SOMETIMES IT'S FUN to build a gadget just because it' a that the comers will be square.
neat idea. There are man ways to draw a centerline, CharlesMak
for example, but thi method i very clever. It doesn 't
require any measuring or triaI-and-error adjustments.
To build the marker, you'll need t\vo hardwood
bars 3/ 4" x I" x 12", t\vo Plexiglas links 1/4" x 3/ 4" x
4-1 / 2" and four #6 pan head crews 3/ 4" long. Start
by making the links. ribe a line down the exact cen-
ter of one link and mark t\vo hole with an awl, 1/2"
in from each end. tack the t\Vo links together and
drill the hole using a drill pre . (The hole hould
be just barel large enough in diameter to let the
crew lip through.)
Mark centerline along both wood bars. Drill pilot
hole for the cre\ that are I" and 5" from the end
of each piece. Fasten the links to the bars. Leave the
crews a little 100 e 0 the links can pivot. Clo e the
bars together and mark hole in each link directly
above the line formed by the bar' inner edges-thi
i the preci e center of the links, end-to-end. Drill
hole on the e marks just large enough to admit the
point of a harpened pencil. Countersink the hole if
you wish.
To mark a centerline, nug the bars up to your
tock. The marker works for boards up to 4" wide.
Bill WeLls

11 \,' Terrific Tips Win Terrific Tools!


We'll give you $100 for every original workshop tip we publish. One Terrific Tip is featured
in each issue. The Terrific Tip winner receives a $250 gift card.
E·mail your tip to workshoptlps • • merlcanwoodworker.com or send It to American Woodworker Workshop Tips. 1285 Corporate Center Drive.
Suite 180, Eagan. MN 55121. Submissions can't be returned and become our property upon acceptance and payment. We may edit submissions
and use them in all print and electronic media.

10 JlmericanWooclworker.com oeTOll R/NOVl M IU 20 I I


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Workshop Tips continued

Vacuum
Attachment Tree
VACUUM ATTACHMENTS are
a challenge to store. They
come in 0 many hape!
I made this device to keep
them all together, within
easy reach. It' just a long a::
w

chain with horter length ...


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of chain branching out N
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from it. o
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Each branch has a 3" to
4" length of 1/ 2" dowel fas-
tened to its end. The fasten- Magnetic Helping Hands
ing ystem is imple: I used THE THOUGHT OF EMPTYING my dust collector' plas-
pliers to open the chain' tic bag u ed to make me cringe. Many time I'd go
last link, then queezed it through my entire repertoire of colorful language
tightly around the dowel. two or three time, and that dam bag till wouldn't
To hang an attachment, tay in place while I put on the trap clamp.
I just tum the dowel paral- I olved this by holding the bag in place with rare-
lel to the chain and pass it earth magnets. The bag tays put, leaving me with two
through the attachment' free hands to po ition the strap. Ijust leave the mag-
hole. nets in place until the next bag change.
Mark Thiel MikeCyr

12 .lmericaaWood_rker.com OCTOIER / NOVEMBER 1011


NEW
WorkingWood 1 & 2:
\vith 111'astercraftsman :Paul Sellers
Working Wood 1 & 2 provides a structured This series of integrated training courses will
,course in which master craftsman Paul Sellers ,enable woodworkers at all levels to easily
... teaches you how to apply his threeINoodworking master Paul Sellers' essential skills and use
fundamentals: Sharpness, Accuracy them for a lifetime of woodworking projects.
and Technique.

A series of 7 DVDs with an accompanying 320-page fuU-color book.


Available .individually oras a set.

DVD topics include:


• Woodworking Es entials 1 • Mastering Mord e & Tenons
• Woodworking E ential 2 • Mastering Sharpening
• Mastering Dovetails • Mastering Workbenches
• Mastering Housing Dadoes Ezeb DVD is 90 minl/tes long

Companion Book
In this beautiful 320-rage full-color book, you'll learn how to
sharpen any edge too in less than two minute , and how to make
practical, heirloom-quality items, such as a Mission-style table and
a Shaker-in pired dovetailed box.
Th W ll-Equ·pped Shop Our Pick of the Latest Tools
------- --------------------------~------------------------------------~

0
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Dream Dado Set for ~

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Contractors Saws w
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...u::>
EVERY WOODWORKER DESERVES a good dado set, but if "'"
~

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you own a portable saw or a contractors saw, you may be
missing the party. With their limited power, these saws
"'~"
0
houJd be equipped with a 6" set rather than an 8" set. >
~
Many 6" et lack the features of a top-notch 8" set, how- ...
C<
::>
ever. That' why Infinity Cutting Tools, the maker of the 0
u
high-end 8" Dadonator dado set, has introduced the new >-J:
(0," Dadonator Jr. It has all the good features of a large et. Q.

The Dadonator Jr. has 24-tooth outer blades and ..,"'"


C<

0
6-tooth chippers. All of the teeth are made from C4 car- 0J:
bide, which holds a sharp edge longer than the lower- C<
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grade carbide found on many 6" dado sets. The Dado- ~

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nator Jr.'s teeth are also quite large, which means you can Z "'"
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have this set sharpened more times than a dado set with
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mall teeth. All of the teeth on the blades and chipper '"~ ...0
have a negative hook angle to prevent kickback and a Hi- z
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ATR grind to minimize tearout in cross cuts. 0
ThIS set come~ with a full range of chippers: four 1/8" SOURCE
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wide, one 3/32" wide and one 1/16" wide. A set of shims Infinity Cutting Tools, infinitytools.com, 877-872-2487, C<
'"
for nne-width adjustments is also included. Dadonator Jr., SDB-600, S190.

14 &mericaaWooclwo.-ker.com OCTO. ER I N 01/ EM. E R lO 11


• Square linear rails on Yaxes and German ball screws on all axes.
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• Steel and aluminum gantry assembly.
• Industrial quality electro spindle 2HP extremely quiet
• 2 different controllers available depending on requirements
• Price $ 6495
SCAlI FOR MORE PRODUCT IItFOI

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www.lagunatools.com 800.234.1976 r5!m

Can Your Old Dust Collector


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merican Fabric Filter Co.


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The Well-Equipped Shop contmued

Big Capacity,
to 16" at 90° and 12" at 45° on material up to 1-112" thick.
Nice Features DeWalt has also introduced another new feature that
helps you figure out where to position the blade when
you need to make a very deep cut. It's a latch that locks the
head onto a sweet spot on the saw's rails. With the rail-
lock latch engaged, you can make a cut up to 6-3/4" deep
on material up to 1-1/2" wide---essentially a 2x6 on edge.
DeWalt didn't forget that people still make small cuts,
too. They squeezed the left and right sides of the 780's
fence as close to the blade as possible, to support those
offcuts that usually wind up zinging past your ear.
The DWS780 tilts 4~ to the right and left. It swings
60° to the right and 50° to the left. Its turntable has
detents at 00, 22S, 33.9°, 45° and 49° in both directions.
With many saws it's almost impossible to lock in an angle
that's really close to one of these detents because it just
slips into the detent when you lock the turntable. That's
not a problem with the 780. It has a detent lockout feature
that allows you to fine-tune any angle.
The DWS780 has LED lights on both sides of the
blade. They help you align a cut by casting a shadow on
HOW WIDE can your miter saw cut? How deep? With this the workpiece. Unlike lasers, LED lights won't go out of
new 12" slider, the DWS780, DeWalt has some pretty adjustment, nor do they need to be re-positioned for
amazing answers: 16" across and 6-3/4" deep. blades of different thicknesses.
Let's put an asterisk after that, though. Using the stan-
dard fence, you can cut 13-7/8" horizontally. When you SOURCE
need more capacity, you remove this fence, place some DeWalt, dewalt.com, 41 ().847-9220, DWS780, 12" Sliding
2x6 pieces on the saw's bed, and slide the workpiece back Miter Saw, $S99.
to a "rear" fence. This arrangement allows you to cut up

16 Americ:aaWooclwol'UI'.COIIl OCTOBER/NOV EMlER 2011


The BESSEY® K BodyCI REVOTMJf.


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r welg
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The Well-Equipped Shop contmued

Handy One-Hander
A LIGHTWEIGHT CLAMP is ideal for orne tricky situations.
This one can be operated with one hand, and that's a
huge bonus.
Bora's Pistol Grip Clamp can bail you out many times,
particularly when doing delicate repair work, where the 24" and 36". The 6" and 12" models have a 2-1/2" depth
weight of a tandard clamp can pull parts out of align- capacity; the rest have a 3-112" capacity.
ment. A Pi tol Grip weighs only half as much as an F-style
damp of the same length. SOU RC E: Affinity Tool Works, LLC, affinitytool.com, 866-58&0395,
Pistol Grips are available in five sizes: 6", 12", 18", Pistol Grip Clamps, $14 - $37.

A Better Handsaw
YOU'RE AT THE LUMBERYARD, trying to fit a 10-ft. cherry Using a miter saw for this job can be iffy-a twisted or
board into your hatchback It's OK to cut it in two, but kinked board can kick back if you're not careful, so I'd
with what? Mo t woodworkers would naturally think of rather do it by hand. I tried the Universal on a number of
a power tool, but truth be told, a good handsaw will do planks and was amazed at how little effort it took to get
the job almost as fast The new Irwin Universal Handsaw through them. I'm sold!
is just that aw.
Irwin calls it a "universal" saw because it's equally SOURCE
good at ripping and CTO scutting. The saw's teeth are Irwin Tools, irwin.com, 800-464-7946, #1773466, 20" Universal
ground three way in a patented de ign and are Handsaw, $22; #1773465, 15" Universal Handsaw, $19.
impulse-hardened. The result is an 11 tpi blade
that cut very quickly, without binding, even in
thick hardwoods. Re-sharpening is impractical,
however.
I've looked long and hard for a aw to use
in the shop for cro scutting long, roughsawn boards.

18 .&merlcanWooclworker.com OCTO. E R / N aVE M. E R 2011


A Great ADler-can Woodworker An Artisan's Life Story

Gregg Novosad
Blending fine art with high technology_
by Spik Carls n Cl
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WHEN MOST OF US THINK ABOUT MAR- From computer guru to as well. The art department at his \:l
~
QUETRY, we picture an old-world computerized craftsman high chool was instrumental in a:
\:l
craftsper on itting at a work- In 2000, after 15 years as a comput- forming hi arti tic ensibilitie. (5
>-
bench meticulou ly cutting, fit- er con ultant, Gregg sold hi con- Woodshop class, along with hi
ting and a embling hundred ulting firm and began pondering father' carpentry acumen and
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of piece of veneer by hand. But hi next career move. He'd been stash of woodworking equipment, u

tep into the workshop of mar- >-J:


profoundly affected by the archi- had provided familiarity with tool . 0..
<
quetry rna ter Gregg Novo ad tecture and artwork he 'd encoun- Looking for a niche where he a:
\:l
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and you 'll di cover omething tered during trip to Europe and could be t use hi talents, Gregg ....
o
quite different: computers and Scandinavia. He'd al 0 had uc- turned to marquetry. J:
0..

la er machine. Step into his ce tackling built-in , millwork


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mind and you 'll discover an and remodeling projects over the Old world design meets o
entirely new way of thinking years. So woodworking eemed a new world technology '"J:Z
Q
about woodworking. natural choice. Experience from Gregg' computer and marquetry ::!!
;::
hi youth influenced this deci ion kill oon merged. Hi de igns a:
o
....
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~

20 Jl1'IwrlcanWooclwol'kel'.com OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 1011


was talking about screenplays. He
explained that ou introduce char-
acters, pre ent a conflict and then
re olve that conflict," Gregg says.
"I decided to apply that concept
to my furniture." Rascal Rodents
depicts a gang of mi chievous
mice chewing through the cabi-
net' veneer and removing clamps
de pite the "leave clamp on till
glue ets" ign ( ee photo, below).
Open the cabinet and you'll find a
marquetry mouse nared in a trap.
Birds oj Fra)" inspired by Alfred
Hitchcock' "The Birds," exempli-
fie Gregg' penchants for both
Fit for A King (detail) tory-telling and attending to
detail (ee photo , page 22). It
depicts the four members of hi
and artwork are computer-gen- the entire piece. He al 0 offers a family warding off attacking bird
erated and programmed into a de ign-your-()wn, mix-and-match which are attempting to pull and
laser machine, which cuts the "menu" from which customers can peck the work apart. A humming-
intricate hape that typify hi select a table tyle, border and pat- bird pulls trands of hair from hi
piece. One of his first-and mo t tern to customize their own piece. daughter' head while he trie
ambitiou -piece with laser mar- to pull back trands of marquetry
quetry wa Fit Jor a King, a dining Every picture that another bird is unraveling.
room table with an intricately tells a story Hi on u e a dart gun to care off
patterned top which include Gregg is a proponent of tory-lin- other bird. Most of the 19 bird
unique quotation at all 12 place ing-having each piece teU a tory. on thi buffet were inspired b
etting (ee photo, above). "I was watching a documentary tho e found on hi torieal piece
"Nothing like creating omething b Robert Redford in which he crafted b masters of marquetry.
with 8,000 piece to try out a new
technique," Gregg mu e .
Once the piece are cut, assem-
bly begin . Gregg prints a lif~ize
image of the de ign and tape it to
a layout table. On top of that, he
po ition a piece of ign-tran fer
film, ticky-side-up. Then he place
the individual marquetry piece
onto the tran fer paper, using the
pattern below as a guide. When
the marquetry de ign is complet-
ed, Gregg flips it over and glue it
to the casework.
Programming each pattern,
border or medallion i labor-inten-
ive, 0 Gregg use them over and
over again, with differentcombina-
tion of wood. He often provide
an open pace--on a magazine
cover, ribbon or medallion-
o he can easily in ert different
name without having to rework
Rascal Rodents

OCT O. U I NOV E M IE R 1011 Jlm.ericanWoocIworker.com 21


o
Gr at Am.er can Woodwor er continued

Birds of Froy

Rirrl~ oj Fray contains 4,000 piece


and took 400 hours to build. "This
pif'cf' was on m 'Bucket List,'"
Gregg recall . . "When I fini hed it
I felt I'd finall aniv d. On most Birds of Fray (details)
piece I like to try out three or four
new techniques-a new material
or finishing technique or comput- and ea y to a emble. He u e down pra booth for fini hing
er program. On thi piece I experi- molding to cover expo ed edge mall piece . If a piece i too large
mented with twelve." and basic veneer for the inside. for that pace, he ends it out.
Gregg occasionally includes a "There' nothing complex about To build the thick, gla -
"\>\'here's Waldo" element, chal- it," he explain. "It' no different mooth fini h he prefer, Gregg
If'nging people to find hidden than building a kitchen cabinet." u a finish that can be applied
things. ,·It make them carcfull regg's 10' x 30' ba ment with a queegee, Ii htly sanded
examine the entire piece." Gregg' workshop is partan. "Whenever I and then reapplied. Hi favor-
favorite trick is to challenge others teach a c1as and we di u work- ite product is a clear bi-<:ompo-
to find 17 planned "defects" on shop, I'm always in the bottom nent polyurethane fini h made
one of his cabinets. "It take some 10%," he explain. And he likes b I ." nfortunately it co ts
people forever, but a couple of kid. it that way. Organization i the over 100 a gallon and can only
once found them all in 46 seconds." ke . Gregg' bandsaw and la er be purcha ed in large volume ,"
machine are permanent fixtures, he a s. A good alternative-one
Dinky workshop, but other machines and supplie that take more time to appl , but
ma sive efficiency are on wheels. .regg uses a hall- can produce imilar re ults-i
, ince .regg's piece are covered way for temporary torage and lacquer, a finish Gregg often u es
with marquetry, the casework is his pool table room double a a a a final topcoat. He al 0 u e
madf' from pI vood and MDF- space for the vacuum bag h use lacquer as the primary fini h for
matf'rials that are table, mooth for gluing. In his garage is a tear- certain projects.

22 JlmericanWooclwol'kel'.com OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 1011


Eve~one needs a
business plan
Gregg may be an artist and com-
puter wiz, but he' also a bu iness-
man. He keep meticulous r cords
of how long each proce take and
is con tantly triving to find better
and faster wa of doing different
tasks. When asked how long it took
to make a pecific table, Gregg
tated that 37 of the marquetry
piece for that project could be
po itioned per hour.
Hi years as a computer con ul-
tant have given Gregg a clear sense Need of Repair (detail)
of the importance of trategic plan- Need of Repair
ning-and he's a proponent of
trategic planning even for week-
end woodworkers. "If you can't According to Gregg, "You hould and executing. " If you're going to
vi ualize your next three projects, write it down and keep u-ack of take the time to make omething
your next project hould be visual- your progre ." He keep sketch- custom, it houJd be ob\'iom that
izing your next three projects," he books with drawings of ideas and it' custom, not 'iOmething you can
sa . Why? "Once you know where photo clippings of in pirational go out and buy," he explains. No
you' re headed, your radar goe up; piece. His workbook binders con- problem there . ....6
you take in information that wiII tain note on co ts, time required
help ou reach your pecified goal . per procedure and a section on See more of Gregg
You'll save time and you'll become "what did and didn't work." Novosad's work at
a better woodworker, faster." Gregg offers another ugges- facebook.com/ pages/Click-
Having a plan i n't enough. tion regarding the learning pro- Divine/135900856483920
cess to woodworkers. "Before tak-
ing a class, try tackling the ubject Spike Carlsen is the
matter at home first. You '\I become author of A SpLintered Histol}' oj
a much more engaged and active Wood: Belt Sander Rarp. , Blind
li tener. You'll know what ques- Woodwor'let~ and Baseball Bats
tions to ask." and the newly relea'ied Ridiru-
From dreanling up the de ign Lously Simple FllmitlnP Pmjrrt~. His
to applying the fini h, Gregg' dis- upcoming book, Till' Woodwork-
tinctive piece are a product of his ing Answer Book, will be a\'ail-
unique way of planning, working able in the spring of2012.

Finishing Touch Finishing Touch (detail)

OCTOIER/NOVEMBER 2011 JlmericaDWOCHlworker.com 23


Turning Wood by Alan Lacer

Turned Wine Goblet


Sharpen your end-grain hollowing skills.

DRINKING FROM A WOODEN GOBLET i a unique


experience, becau e its weight and feel i di tinct
from goblets made of other material . But is it
practical? Of course! With the right wood and
fini h, it' perfect for anyone who loves wood!

Tools and materials


Almo t any lathe will do for thi project-even a
mini lathe. A fourjaw croll chuck (see Sources,
page 27) i a great as et for mounting the blank
for hollowing. You'll need tandard spindle turn-
ing tool, including a rou hing gouge, a detail/
pindle gouge, a kew chi el and a parting tool.
You'll al 0 need a tool for hollowing the cup. I
recommend u ing a round-no e craper (with
either a ide- or full-round profile) that' 1/ 2" to
1" wide and 5/ 16" to 3/ "thick.
Steer away from really oft wood uch as
ba wood, pine, cottonwood, etc. and look for
harder wood uch as cherry, walnut, maple and
oak. Many exotic wood are aJ 0 suitable. Find-
ing large enough turning blanks may be the big-
ge t challenge-I like to tart with blanks that are
2-1 / 2" to 3" quare.
A wooden goblet's u ability turns on the fin-
i h. With orne wood the wrong fini h can allow
wine to literally eep right through the cup.
Epoxy, pre-catalyzed lacquer (sometimes old

Learn how to turn wooden plates at


AmericanWoodworlrer.comlWebExtras

24 Jlmedc:aJlWoocIworker.com OCTOIER/NOVEMIER 1011


Securely mount _ IUnk with a tumed tenon into a scroll chuck. Cut In below _ line marked to indicate the cup portion of the
A secure mount comes from the tenon's large gripping surface goblet to provide clearance for shaping the bottom of the cup.
and its shoulder, which rests on the top of the chuck'sjaws.

SMpe the bottom portion of the cup with the detail/ spindle Drill the cup to within 1/ 2" of final depth, using a Jacobs style
gouge. Switch to the roughing gouge to refine the cup's flatter chuck mounted in the tailstock.
upper portion.

to turner a "melamine") and varnish are good ratio between the cup and the overall height.
choices that eal the wood well and are not affected Begin the rough haping by cutting in below the
by alcohol. line to provide clearance (Photo 2). Do not cut in
too far-about half the diameter of the cylinder is as
Securely mount the blank deep as you should cut at thi point. Reducing the
elect a quare blank that's about g"long. Mount the diameter too much will leave too little support for
blank on the lathe between center and turn it to a hollowing the cup.
cylinder u ing the roughing gouge. elect which end Roughly hape the outside of the cup. Its bottom
will be the base and which will be the cup. U e a part- i normally rounded like the ide of a bead (Photo
'"Zw
...
Z
ing tool or a kew chi el to turn a tenon on the ba e 3). Don 't cut in too far as you refine the shape-leave
w
N end to fit the croll chuck. Size the diameter of this plenty of tock at the bottom for upport during the
Z
o tenon to provide the chuck' jaw with an effective hollowing proce s. Switch to the roughing gouge to
'"~ grip over a large surface area. Remove the blank and shape and refin the ide of the cup. They may be
0>-
r
C>.
mount your croll chuck onto the headstock. Then, traight a hown here, or gently rounded.
-< using plenty of pre sure, mount the blank curely
'"
"
o...
o
within thejaw (Photo 1). Hollow the cup
r It' much ea ier to hollow the cup if you drill it out
Shape the CUp
C>.
fir t (Photo 4). e a 1/ 2" to 3/ 4" drill bit to create
z
o Decide the cup' height and mark it on the blank. working room for the turning tools. Drill to a depth
'"rz You may want to measure glass goblets that you like about 1/ 2"le s than the ultimate final depth, to allow
Q to find a pleasing balance between the cup and the refining the bottom of the cut.
:>
;:: goblet' overall height. Or imply experiment by U e a thick round-no e craper to open the cup
a:
o... drawing different line on the blank. I like a 40-t0-60 (Photo 5). To work with the grain, you must work
ow
OCTOIER/NOVEMBER ZOll JlmericUlWoodworker.com 25
Begin hollowing the cup by making sweeping cuts with a thick Work ne.r the rim to establish the wall thickness. Make the
round-nose scraper, working from the sides of the pilot hole back same sweeping cuts, working from the inside out.
towards the rim. Make ever-deepening cuts to open the inside.

Finish hollowing the cup by making light passes from the Ease the transition between the cup and the stem by adding a
bottom to the top edge with the scraper tilted toward the bead detail. Sand the detail. Then establish the final shape at the
cut. Then sand the inside of the cup and the upper part of the base of the cup.
outside.

from smaller to larger diameter. In this case, that the lef4 in the direction of the cut (around 45°), mak-
means working from the center of the cup toward ing light, con i tent movements acro the wood' ur-
the sides and top edge-"pulling out" rather than face.
"pushing in," a~ \,,;th face-grain bowl turning. When ou're atisfied with the surface finish from
Open the cup in tages, gradually reducing the the turning tool , finish-sand the in ide of the cup
wall thicknes more towards the top of the cup than and the flat part of the outside. Start with 120 grit
the side., (Photo 6). Work to a wall thickne near and work through 320 grit. Note: Waiting to and the
th top of 3/ J 6" to 1/ 4"-you '11 b able to further cup after the goblet' tem has been turned to a mall
reduce the wall thickne., a your end-grain hollow- diameter i a bad idea-it courts di aster.
ing skill improve.
,witch to the detail/spindle gouge to further Shape the stem and base
refine the .,hape of the bottom on the outside of Fini h turning the bottom of the cup (PhotoS). The
the cup. Reducing the outside diameter around the tem can flow right into the cup, or you can add a
bottom and at the ba of the cup prm;des a better detail at the tran ition point. Fini h- and the bottom
sen e of the wall thickne s when you refine the inte- of the cup.
rior walls-but be careful about reducing the outside Establi h the goblet' height by cutting in with a
shape to its final diameter, as you till need some up- parting tool about 1/ 4" deep on the chucked end of
port to finish hollowing the in ide. the blank. Then lowly create th tem and the base
Switch back to the round-no e craper to finish b clearing awa the remaining waste in hort eg-
turning the imide of the up (Photo 7). Work to ments, fini h- anding as you go (Photo 9). When the
achieve the best surface '011 can prior to anding b tem and ba e are nearly complete, decide whether
ming a technique called" hear s raping." Work from to add a detail (Photo 10). Fini h- and any remain-
the bottom and up the ide with the craper tilted to ing areas to 320 grit.

26 AmericanWooclworker.com OCTOBER/NOVEMBER lOll


Cut in slightly at the base to establish the goblet's overall height. Complete the tNlse and add details, using the detail/spindle
Then turn the stem in stages, working from the cup to the base gouge and the skew chisel.
and sanding completed areas as you go.

Refine the rim of the base by making an angled cut on the Part the goblet from the waste material after cutting into
bottom edge, using the long point of the skew chisel. the underside of the base at a slight angle to create a concave
bottom surface, so the goblet will sit flat.

Parting off least five light coats in ide the cup and three to four
ut a mall chamfer at the bottom edge of the base coats on all other areas. Allow each coat to dry for at
(Photo 11 ). Thi cut create a ubtle hadow line that lea t eight hour and lightly and between coats. Wait
ligh tI lifts the base. Prepare to part off th goblet by 20 to 30 days before u ing the goblet, to allow the fin-
alternating between removing the wa te with a part- i h to adequately cure. I often go by the niff test: If
ing tool and haping the under ide of its base with I detect any solvent odors in ide the goblet, it need
the kew chi el or the detail! pindle gouge. rate more curing time . ....6
a hallow undercut from the rim toward the center,
o the goblet will sit only on the rim (Photo 12). Con- SOURCES
tinue the light under ut until you part off the com- Oneway Manufacturing, oneway.ca, 800-565 7288,
pleted goblet into your hand. Sand the underside of OnewayTalon Chuck, '2985, $232.
the base by hand or with a oft flexible pad mounted
in a drill or rotary tool. Woodcraft, woodcraft.com, 800-225-1153, Behlen's Rock Hard
Tabletop Varnish, '18Z42, $21.69 per qt.
Apply a durable finish
se an alcohol- and liquid-resi tant fini h. Of the
three option mentioned earlier, I prefi r the work- Alan Lacer is a woodturner,
ing propertie , durability, look and feel of a high- writer and instructor who lives near
grade \'arni h fini h, even though it drie lowl and River Falls, \\1. To see more of
take a long time to fully cure. Alan' work visit alanlacer.com.
Create an excellent wiping \'arnish by mixing
equal parts of Behlen' Rock Hard Tabletop Varnish
(ee ource) and odorle mineral pirits. Appl at

OCTO IU IN OV E M I E R 2011 Jlmeric&IlWooclworker.com 27


My Shop I Where Our Readers Live

Little Shop of Dreams

'"z
...offi
This small space houses a big passion for woodworking. '>
<
o
(5
>
WHETHER I'M IN THE MIDDLEof a new aw i centrally located and the with 1/ 2" plywood rather than '"
....
UJ

a:
::>
project or ju t want a place to periphery i fitted with benche , heetrock, so I can attach brack- o
v
e cape, my 400 q. ft. basement tools, clamp to rage and as much ets, racks and helves in any loca- ;.:
I
shop is a great place to build or shelf pace as I can fit in. As you tion and move them as the need 0..
<
a:
brainstorm. All of my projects can ee, I primarily use bench top ari e . <.:>
....oo
have been "born" there, products tools rather than large floor models. The aw' outfeed table ex- I
0..
of my dream and imagination- My dust collector i dedicated tend almo t five feet, allowing
and more than a little per pira- to the table aw and chop aw, the it to double as an i land work- z
tion. It' a comfortable retreat hop' two bigge t du t-producers, bench. Nestled underneath i a ~
Z
I
during Minne ota' ummer heat with blast gate to direct the air- rolling cart that hou e my air Q
and humidity and a bright, cozy flow. I keep the remote control compre or and al 0 erve as an :::ii
>=
and inviting place to work during tucked in my shop apron for start- auxiliary work urface. To ease o
z
the winter. I can neak down to it ing the collector when I'm at the handling heet good and board <
UJ

anytime during the day or night- bu ine end of either tool. Cut- from tation to tation, all the ur- ""
....
o
rounding bench top are the arne <
I love pending time there. ting longer tock at the chop aw a:
o
I can't make my hop any big- require the u e of an adju table height as the table aw. And even '>
<
ger, 0 I've tried to maximize the roller upport. though open helving require a o
space that I do have. My table- I covered the wall and ceiling bit more hou ekeeping, I like the '"oa:
....
8
21 Americ:aaWooclwo1'ku.c:om OCTO'E~/NOVEM'E~ 1011
visibility and acce ibility.
A basement shop has everal
challenge that require lots of
planning. Since there is no exte-
rior entrance, everything from can let in orne fre h air, but get-
heavy tool to sheet good and ting good ventilation i an ongo-
lumber must go up and down the ing challenge. To help control
tairway. I get around thi hassle airborne du t, I've in tailed a ceil-
by cutting large panels and long ing-mounted air filtration unit.
lumber to rough sizes at the lum- My shop may never compete
beryard or with a temporary et-up for the title of "Dream Shop," but
in the garage. that's OK; I think of it as my "Little
To overcome the lack of natu- Shop of Dreams." ..6
ral light, I've installed numerous David Femelius,
fluore cent and incande cent fix- Minneapolis, MN.
ture , with plenty of task lighting
at pecific locations. My hop has
one mall operable window, 0 I

OCT O. ER I NOV E M IE R lOll &m.ricuWoocIworker.com 29


by Tom caspar

Inexpensive materials
A bunch of 2x4s, a little 3/4" poplar, one The base is a box that's skinned with This is critical for a good bench, but not
sheet each of 3/4" MDF and 1/4" birch- plywood. (The ends and top are removed hard to make. The base is designed to
that's all you'll need. here). It won't rack, bend or twist. keep the top from sagging.
30 AmeriC:&JlWooclwolrkelr.c:om OCTOIER/NOVEMIER 2011
BUILDING A SERIOUS WORKBENCH Make a flat
i a rite of pas age for many wood- assembly
workers. It' usually an ambitious table- it's
essential for
project requiring a lot of kill, lum-
building this
ber, time, money and tool -but it bench. A
doe n 't have to be that hard. Here's hollow-core
an alternative. door placed
This bench i every bit as good as ona pair of
one that co ts thousands of dollars. sawhorses
It's rigid, heavy and dead flat Its vises works well.
offer all the holding power you need. Screw some
But you can build it on a budget in a boards to one
hort time. You don't have to make comer to help
complicated joints or use big equip- keep your
work square.
ment It' a bench for everyone.

How tall should it be?


When you use a plane, a bench
hould be about wrist height. When
:I:
U
you use a router or a sander, it hould
.,< be about two to three inche taller. Build a pair
a::
of frames on
oa:: Thi bench works for both hand tools
the assembly
'"<Z and power tools: You can easily raise
table. Clamp
a::
~
or lower it with two removable ri r their sides to
blocks ( ee center photo, below). It' the comer
equally turdy at both heights. pieces to
As de igned, the bench i quite make sure
low-about right for a hand-tool each frame is
u er who is 5' 8" tall. If you' re taller, square.
a:: or if you don 't need a low, hand-
'"
z
>-
z tool-friendly bench, just make the
'"
N feet twice as thick or add tall blocks
Z
o underneath them. (The b nch's
'"
~ base is made from a ingle heet
>-
:I:
Q. of plywood, and is about as tall as
<
a:: it can be without cutting into a ec-
"o>-o ond heet.)
:I:
Q.

Clamping room Adjustable height Storage option


The top has a big overhang 50 there's To raise the bench for use with power You can add a drawer unit later on, if you
plenty of room for clamping. Its underside tools. just lift each end and scoot an wish. It passes right through the hollow
is flat. too-there's no annoying lip. additional foot underneath. center of the base.
OCT 0'11 ' 11 0 VIM. II u" AmericuWCICIClwwIEu._ It
~A~~~V~~:W~ __
~
-----------~~------~--~
c. -===-=---
C3 _

".

Cq

For acloser look at this bench, and more


Fig. B Frame Detail information on adding astorage cabinet, go to
AmericanWoodworker.mmlWebExtras

o/i~ ])Z4. 'l/OL£ Fig. C Cleat Detail


I-o/i~ ])Z4. COt/N'r£,f'80,f'£, )/2" ])££P

45
~~ --~

32 AmericaaWoodwol'kel'.com OCTOI£R / NOV£MIER 2011


Materials Stiffen each
I've de igned this bench to keep the frame with
co t way down-so you can afford an oversize
two very nice vises. All of the mate- skin of 1/4"
plywood. Glue
rial are available at a home center.
and screw
I've queezed the sheetstock piece the plywood
out of one sheet of 1/4" birch ply- to the frame,
wood and one sheet of 3/4" MDF. then rout the
Mo t of the solid-wood pieces can be plywood flush
made from fir 2x4s; the others are all around.
poplar lx4 .
The 2x4 must be dry (6% to 8%
MC). Dimen ional lumber doe n't
come that dry, however; you'll have
to plan ahead and wait at least ix
months for the wood to dry out
before using it In addition, the 2x4
must be flat and straight. You'll have
to joint or plane the wood after it'
dry-the cutting list dimen ion
allow for this. Mauthe
If you'd like to get tarted right cleats that will
tie the frames
away, there are two alternative to
together. Glue
2x4s. First, you could glue poplar an extra-
Ix4s together to make the 2x4 mate- wide spacer
rial; they're dry enough straight from onto each
the tore. (You wouldn't have to joint piece, then
or plane them, either.) Second, you rout its sides
could buy 6/4 (1-1/2") kiln-dried flush with
yellow poplar and have a lumberyard a laminate
joint and plane it for you. Milling the trimmer.
lumber yourself usually yields the
be t re ults, though.
If you have the budget and a
jointer and a planer, roughsawn
poplar would be the be t choice for
building thi bench. That' what I
used in all the construction photo .

Build the base


Before you begin, buy the vi e (ee
Source, page 36). Make ure they'll your tablesaw, cut rabbets on the
fit in the space allotted (Fig. F). Many ends of the rails (AI, Fig. B). Glue Shopping Ust
different vises will work, but some and screw the rails to the tile (A2), Lumber
may require more room. If that' the one comer at a time (Photo 2). • SO linear feet 2x4
case, repo ition a few bench parts to Make sure their face are flush. Build • 1 sheet 3/4" MOF
free up more space. two of these frame . ·1 sheet 1/4" birch plywood
The key to ucce fully build- Cut the plywood panel (A9) • Slinear feet of 3/4" x 4" hardwood.
ing this bench i to work on a large for the frame (Photo 3, Fig. D). not Including vise faces
surface that is truly flat. I recom- Note that they're lightly oversize.
mend u ing a 30" hollow-core door Place the panel on the frame and Hardware
·2 boxes of 1-3/8" deck screws
(Photo 1). It's inexpensive, easy to drill pilot holes for the crews, pac-
• 1 box of 2-1 /2" deck screws
move and tore, and will come in ing them about 5" to 6" apart Glue
• Slag screws, 3/8" x 2"
handy for building many other proj- and screw the panels to the frame . • S washers, 3/8" Ld.
ects. Fasten two boards to the ide After the glue drie , use a router and • 4 lag screws, 5/16" x 3" (for face vise)
of the door to form a square comer. a flush-trim bit to make the panels • 4 lag screws, 5/16" x2-112" (bend vise)
tart by milling all the olid-wood even with the frame . ·16 washers, 5/16"I.d (double them up)
parts for the base (AI-A8). Cut them Make the cleats (A3, A4 and A5) ·5.14 x 2" FH screws (for face vise)
to final length. U ing a dado et in and feet (A6) by gluing pacers (A7)
O CTOBER / NOVEMBER 101 1 -'-icaaWoodworker.COIIl 33
Cutting List Overall Dimensions: 32 718"Hx23"Wx59"L(3S" HWlth optional riser)

..
Fig.D 1/4" Plywood Cutting Diagram

Section Part Name Qty. Material ThxWxL


A1
Al
III
Stilt
•• 214
214
H/I". 3-114".43"
1-3/8" x3-1/4"x25-3/8"
A3 CIaO 2 214 1-311".3-1/." .21"
M Cleat 2 214 1-3/8" x3-1/4" x18"
AS Clan 214 1-3II"x3-1I4".1S"
A6 Foot 2 214 1-3/8" x3-1/4" x21"
A1 SpIcer 6 3K' ....... 314".3-1/4".4-5/1" (I)
AI Pad 4 3/4" hanIwood 3/4" x3-1/4" x4"(a)
At fnlnllIId bict ..... 2 1/."1IiIdI pIJ 1/4" x27-111" ••3"(b)
Al0
.........
EndpaMI 1/4" birth ply 1/4" x11-5/8"x29-7/8"(e)

_.
An 1/4" IIiIdI pIJ 1/.".11-5/1" x36-1(1' (e)
A12 Top panel 1 1/4" birth ply 1/4" x11-112"x13"
All ",,...2 1/."1IiIdI pIJ 1/4" x11-1(1' x14-1/."
A14 Top panel 3 1/4" birth ply 1/4" x11-112"x2-3/4"
11 214 1-311" x3-11." x27-111"
B2 Outersdt 214 1-3/8" x3-1/4"• 19"
m Ann 214 1-311" x3-1/4" x11"
B4 licit top and bottom 2 214 1-3/8".2-3/4" x2-3/4"
IS . . .shan 1 214 1-3/8.2-31." x10"
B6 licit., long 1 214 1-3/8".2-3/4" x12" Fig. E 3/4" MDF Cutting Diagram
11 ra 2 1/4" IIiIdI pIJ 1/4" xS-1(1' x10" (bl
(1 Top 1 MDf 3/4" x23"x59"

. ......
Q
0
(
(S
C6
ea._
Center, rnidcIt

00 vi5e pIatfonn
fnd_pIIdDnn
2
2
1
2
2
MDf
MDf
MDf
MDf
1/4" IIiIdI pIJ
314".'2" x23-1/4" Ie)
3/4".11-5/8"x35-1/4" (dl
314" x23-1/4" x59-1/4" (d)
3/4".11-112"x13-112" (dl
114" x4-11."x9-111" (d)
C2

C3
C2

C5

C3 C5
a
a £IId_,.
Facr vi5e front 1
2
3/4"hardwood
31."1IIRIwaod
3" x6-1/4"x15"
314"x3"xr
Dl Foot 2 214 1-3/8" x3-1/4"x21"
D2 Spur 2 31."1IIRIwaod 5/1".3-1/." x13"
D3 Pad 4 3/4" hanIwood 3/4"x3-1/4".4"
D4 SIde a 314" IIIRIwaod 314" x2-31." x4"
CI C~
Notes:
.) Rip at 3-3/S" wide, then glue to mating piece.
II) This is the final size. Rough-cut 1/." oversize in length and width. Glue to mating
surfaces, then rout flush.
c) Rough-cut 1/." oversize in width only.
d) This is the rough-cut size. Glue to mating piece with 1/8" overhang, then rout flush.

Fig.F
I"
Top View of Base

0
f 0
~)

0
2-Y.," .~)

0
'P)
0
.0)

0 0 0

- r&.-~·

Sc:r B!/C~ VISE -I/1l"f'])w!/,f'E


-:{-h" ~OM ~ON"lt:J;GE
34 JlmericaaWoodworker. com OCTOBER / NOVEMBER 2011
to each piece (Fig. C). Be ure that Assemble the
box beam by
the pacel are po itioned quare to
gluing and
the piece underneath. Trim the pac-
screwing the
ers flush (Photo 4 ). Drill hole in th cleats to the
cleats for fastening them to the top frames. Again,
with lag screws. it's essential
Dlill and countersink pilot hole to do this on
in the cleats and feet ( ee Fig. F for the assembly
I hole location ). Clamp up the base table, so the
without glue, making ure that the base stays flat.
ends of the frame are flus h with
the id of the outer cleats and feet
Continue drilling the pilot hole into
the frame . Remove all four cleats,
then glue and screw the outer one
only (Photo 5).
All of the piece that support the
top of thi bench must be level with
each other. If they're not, the top will
eventually sag. (It' made from MDF,
which isn't as tiff as olid wood.)
Place the two middle cleats in po i-
tion and make ure they're level with
the outer cleats (Photo 6 ). If your
frame members are traight, every-
thing hould be fine. If the middle
cleats are low, him them with pap r;
if the 're high, sand or plane them
) thinner. Glue the cleats in place.
Tum over the base and glue and
crew the feet. Glue and crew pads
(A ) under the feet, then trim them
flush. ut the end panels (AlO) , glue
and screw them to the base, then
trim their ide flush. ut the bottom
panel (All). Glue and crew it to the Buy the book
base, then trim flush. Tum the base
uHow to Make Workbenches and Shop Storage Solutions"
over and add the top panel (A12,
13 and A14). at awbookstore.com
Add the brace on the left end of
the base. Cut all the olid wood parts Sight across
(Bl-B6). Glue the box parts (B4, the top of the
B5 and B6). ut the plywood face box beam
(B7) and glue them to the box. Trim with the
flush. Glue and crew the box to the middle cleats
inner tile (Bl). Screw the inner tile in place-
and box to the base; note that the before gluing
top of this part its below the base them on.
Everything
by the thickne of the ann (B3, Fig.
must be level.
A). lamp the outer tile (B2) to the
box' long ide (B6). Place the arm
in po ition and adjust the outer tile
until the arm i level. Screw the outer
tile and arm in place.
Make the riser blocks (Dl- D4,
Fig. G). You can make these an,
height ou wi h. They hould fit
tight, 0 the bench won't wig Ie.

OCTOIER / NOVEMBER 1011 JlmaricaaWoodworker.com 35


Assemble the Build the top
top in stages. Cut all of the top piece (C1-C6, Fig.
It's composed E) to ize. You'll be building the top
ofthree layers in tage, up ide down. Each layer
ofMDF. Use is glued to the piece below using
lots of screws 1-1/4" cre, as clamp (Photo 7).
as miniature To begin, place the top (C1) on the
clamps to
as embly table, then place the cen-
apply even
pressure when ter piece (C2 and C3) in po ition
you glue and make ure they fit nug.
the pieces Draw grids on the e piece to
together. locate the crews; the line hould be
3/4" in from each edge and spaced
about 4" to 5" apart. Clamp the four
piece to the top and pr~rill1-1/4"
deep hole for all the crews. Coun-
tersink the hole . Remove the center
pieces and lightly countersink the
oppo ite ide of the hole, plus the
hole in the top piece. Thi guaran-
Rout the tee that the piece will lie flat when
pieces flush. you crew them together.
Remove the Glue and screw the center piece ,
screws, then one at a time. Apply the glue with
add the next a mall paint roller. Mter the glue
layer. The drie , trim the edge flush (Photo 8).
result is a top Remove the screws and repeat the
that's dead ame proces for the bottom piece
flat-and the (C4) and the platform for the face
box-beam
vi e (C5) and end vi e (C6).
base will keep
it that way. Add the vi e while the top i
up ide down. O ne note on the
face vi e: The front (C7) must be
tapered, top to bottom (Fig. H ).
Thi en ure that the top of the vise
pinche first as it clo e . Make the
taper b taping a 1/ " him under
one ide of the face, then run the
block through a planer.
The top of the face vi e should
be flu h with the top of the bench.
Fig. H End View of Vise's Face Drill the mounting holes in the
For more information on buying
~ 2--;J/i" "1 vi e face 0 it its about 1/16"

Ll
avise for your workbench, go to
above the bench top, then level the
AmericanWoodworlrer.mm/WebExtras vi e' top after it is in tailed. Follow
-rop the arne procedure with the end
orVISE
vi e face (C8).

J
Fasten the top to the base. Drill
Fig.G Riser 6,-y,," pilot hole 1/8" deeper than the full
length of the lag crews. Drill hole
f7('O/l/ for the bench dog, making sure they
orVIS~ don't hit any of the cleats. (The e
hole must be plumb; make a 1-3/8"
thick guide block and u e a drill
SOURCE pre to drill a 3/4" hole through
Woodcraft Supply, woodcraft.com, it.) Fini h the top with three coats
SOQ-225-1153, large Front Vise, #144S05, $76.99; Handle, of oil-based poly. ~
17E52, $6.99; 7" Quick Release Bench Vise, #152633, $99.99;
Pinnacle Brass Bench Dogs, 3/4' dia., #151101, $29.99.

36 Americ. .Woodwodt.... com O C TOB U/ NOVEMBER 1011


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:r
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< by Tom Caspar
'"a::r
oa:
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a:
~

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'"

a:

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Easy to make Removable feet Stores flat


All the parts are just home center 1x4s Unscrew the knobs to slide off the feet. Hang the parts on a wall or put them on
glued together. a shelf.

OCTOIU/NOYIMIIII 101' AmedcaaWOCIdwwbl"._ 39


Fig. A Exploded View

o
To download a SketchUp plan
for this sawhorse, go to
AmericanWoodwortler.mmlWebExtras
CI

Overall DimenslOllS:
Cutting List 27-112" Hx24"Wx 18" 0

Part Qty.for2 Th xWX L


A1 WI3-1I4"1.JI4"
Al 3/4" x3-114" x14-114"
o/~. Y/4N"G£1(' AJ )l4"13-WI6"
81 3/4" x3-1/4" x24"
80L-r
IZ JI4" 13-114"111-112"
1>1 83 3/4" x 3-1/4" x3· (a)
C1 )14"13-114" 119-112"
Q 3/4" x3-114" x11-112"
D1 WI3-1I4"1"vr ..
D2 3/4" x3-1/4" x 18"
OJ )14"12-114"12-114"
Notes:
.) First cut miters on both ends of two pieces 12" long.
then crooort them to make four 83 parts.
It) Rough cut four pi«es 1r long to make all eight pieces.

EVERY SHOP needs a pair of trusty edge perfectly even (Photo 2). removing the clamp , cut part B3 to
sawhorse . I like ones that are easy to Here are a few note to guide exact length.
build and easy to tore away. The e you along the way. In tep 12, To in tall the hanger bolts, first
sawhorse definitely fit that bill, and you'll be gluing a foot so that it fits drill a 5/ 16" hole through each foot.
nest together quite well, too. tightly around a leg. The best way Make sure the hole is plumb--it's
This unique design is within to do thi is to place a leg between best to use a drill pres . Clamp the
reach of any woodworker and the foot pieces during the glue-up. foot onto the leg and continue drill-
doesn't require many tools to build. Clamp the e three pieces to draw ing the hole with a cordless drill.
The wood is quite common-I used them close. To prevent the leg from Remove the foot and enlarge its hole
yellow poplar lx4s from the local becoming glued to the foot, place with a 3/ 8" bit. In tall the hanger
home center. You'll need about 200 orne hims under the leg, as hown bolt by jamming two nuts together
linear feet of lx4s to make one pair in the drawing. on its threaded end; tum them with
of horse . When you're ready to assem- a wrench.
ble the frame in tep 16, place the If you finish or paint your saw-
Building the horse tretchers in position and measure horse, leave the feet on. You don't
You'll need a tablesaw, handsaw, drill the distance between them. Cut A3 want a film on the part of the leg that
and a number of clamps. A miter saw to this length. You can glue all of lide into the foot. That additional
would be handy for cutting parts to these pieces together at once, but thickne would make the fit too
length. Begin by cutting all the parts it' easier to do it in two tages. Start tight-I know, it happened to me!
except A3 and B3-you'll cut the e with the middle stretcher, but leave sA
to fit later on. Assemble the parts the top tretcher in place-without
in the order hown in the drawings glue-so the legs are paced cor- SOURCE
on the next page. The basic idea is rectly. Draw all the piece tight with Woodcraft Supply, woodcraft.com,
to glue the pieces in layers (Photo clamp . For the econd tage, glue 800-225-1153, T-style knob with
1), then rip both ides to make the on A3 and the top tretcher. After 3/8"-16 insert. '142227, $1.19 ea.

40 AmericaaWoodwozku.colll OCTO.EII / NOVEMBEII lOll


Leg assembly Mid stretcher assembly Foot assembly continued

13
7

Frame
Top stretcher assembly assembly

16

Last
piece

17

Use plenty of cllimps to glue the pieces together. Place two Saw both skies of the glued-up parts. This is an easy way to
clamps across the pieces to help align them. To prevent these make the edges perfectly even.
clamps from sticking to the wood. place some small blocks.
covered with masking tape, between the wood and the clamp.
OCTO . . . 'IIOVIM . . . H I I Americ:aaWOCMIwodIu._ 41
Clamp long and short boards on top of Hold furniture parts for chopping, carving Clamp freely between the jaws. Unlike
the bench, fully supported for planing. and routing. Hold jigs and fixtures, too. a face vise, there are no screws or guide
bars to get in the way.
42 &meric:aaWoocIworker.c:om OCTOIU/NOYIMIU 2011
Start by
YOU CAN DO WITHOUT A TAIL VISE. But you can do
installing end
much more with one. That' wh\ woodworkers have caps on both
depended on tail vi es for over 400 years. A tail vi e can ends of the bench.
be used to clamp boards of all sizes horizontally or verti- They mount on
cally for planing, sanding, carving, routing, gluing, etc. dovetailed keys
Modem version employ metal screws and guide plates, that are located
but I prefer the traditional all-wood con truction hown using a jig made
here, partially because it's beautiful in both form and from an offcut.
function , and partially because you don 't have to buy
any vise hardware, only a thread box and tap, which can
be used over and over ( ee Sources, page 4S).
This vi e can be mounted on virtually any work-
bench, although modifYing the base is almost ure to
be a part of the project. A bench with a tre tle- tyle base
and a top that extends beyond it at the front and on the
right ide, as shown here, is ideal. The right end
Like any clamping devise, a tail vise has two main cap contains a
threaded hole
components, a fixed jaw and an adjustable jaw. Both
for the vise's
jaws accept bench dogs ( ee Sources), so that in addi-
wooden screw. A
tion to clamping between the jaws, a tail vise can also woodthreading
clamp above them. This dual capability is the key to a kit contains a tap
tail vise's versatility. to thread this hole
The fixed jaw i a laminated beam that's glued and and a thread box
screwed to the front of the bench top and reinforced to cut threads on
by a olid beam-<:alled an end cap-that's attached the screw.
to the end of the top. The adjustable jaw oppo e the
fixed jaw. It's a complex rectangular frame that mounts
again t and underneath the bench top, supported and
guided by another end cap. The crew that operates this
jaw threads through the ame end cap.
Tum the wooden
Start with the end caps screw. Finish by
The end cap (A and B, Fig. A, page 44, and Cutting cutting a groove
Li t, page 4S) anchor both jaw. They al 0 keep the for the garter in
bench top flat Start with two 1-3/ 4" x 3-3/ 4" maple the collar. The
garter locks the
blanks that are about 6" longer than the width of the
l: screw in the vise's
U
<
bench top. Use the table aw to cut a 7/ S" wide dove- adjustable jaw,
CD
a::
l:
tail-shaped groove on the in ide face of each end cap but allows it to
oa:: blank, tarting 5/ S" from the top edge. Tilt the blade revolve freely.
""Z go to cut the angled houlders. Then in tall a dado et
<
a::
z
to remove the waste. Clean up each channel and drill a
o ingle countersunk hank hole for a 3/ S" x 6" lag bolt.
>=
<
....a:: The end caps must be wide at the front to support
'" the vi e jaw , but they can be narrower at the back.
j
Cut notches on the band aw or by making a serie of
z
z
topped cuts on the jointer. Use the thread
::>
CD Dovetail-shaped keys (C, Fig. A) imultaneously hold box to thread
j each end cap tightly again t the bench top, yet till allow the shaft of the
..
<
l:
0-
easonal movement. Make two key blanks on the table-
saw with the blade tilted go and et at 1" height. tand
wooden screw
all the way to
<
:t:
I:J a 1" x 4" x 24" blank on its edge and make two passe , the collar. These
o
o re etting the fence between passe to determine the threads fit the
l:
threaded hole in
0..
key' width. Make a third pas with the blank on its side
the end cap.
to cut out each key. Each key blank hould tightly fit
the end cap' groove, but lide without binding. It mu t
al 0 it flu h with or lightly below the cap' face.
Cut the blanks into 4" long ke\ and use ajig to crew
them to the bench top (Photo 1). The jig i imply a 2"
wide offcut from one of the end beam with a fence
OCTOBEII / NOVEMBEII lOll AmericlUlWooclworker.com 43
Fig. A The End Caps
%" x COt/II'rE,f'St/1'/1< L4G
~________~~~~~~~~~~___8_0_L_~
__ __P_)__~~__-+________~f-Y2"r
(tr.

,(SLOPE

glued on top. Slide a key into thejig and position the jig inch apart, tarting 1" from the front of the bench top.
on the bench. Drill a countersunk pilot hole through Fini h and install the end cap one at a time. The
one end of the key and into the end of the bench. left end cap (A) extend 1-1 / 2" beyond the bench top
Install a screw. Repeat the proce s on the other end of and i dovetailed to the fixed jaw. Layout and cut thi
the key. Then remove the jig. Space the key about an lapped dovetail on the front of the cap. Rub paraffin in
the cap' dovetailed groove and then drive it onto the
key and into po ition on the bench top. Install the lag
Create the fixed bolt and fini h by trimming the back end flu h.
jaw by gluing The right end cap (B) extend 3-1/ 4" beyond the
notched fill blocks bench top to upport the sliding jaw and anchor the
between two wooden crew. Use one of the keys to fill the front end
rails. Use screws of the dovetailed groove. Mark the center point of the
instead of clamps
screw and drill a 1-1/4" dia. pilot hole. Layout and
to streamline
the process. The
cut the notch at the front and the mortise. The notch
spaces between allows the adju table jaw to ride over the end cap as it's
the segments opened and clo ed. imilarly, the morti e accommo-
become holes for date the adju table jaw's guide bar, which !ides under
bench dogs. the bench top. Make this morti e large enough for
the guide bar to freely lide through. U e a 1-1 / 2" dia.
threaded tap to cut the thread in the bench- crew pilot
hole (Photo 2). Then follow the procedure de cribed
earlier to install this end cap.
Install the fixed
jaw with glue and The wooden screw
lag bolts, making Make the crew (D, Fig. B) from a 24" long maple blank
sure it's flush turned to a 3" dia. cylinder (Photo 3). Layout and
with the existing tum the head and the 2" dia. x 1-3/ 4" collar. Tum the
bench top. The shaft to 1-15/ 32" dia. and fini h by cutting a 1/ 4" deep
board glued on groove in the collar for the garter.
the bottom of the
Clamp the turned crew in a vise (the vise on your
fixed jaw supports
other workbench) and u e a 1-1 / 2" thread box to cut
the Federal-style
double-screw face the thread into the shaft (Photo 4). Turning the shaft
vise. toju t under 1-1/ 2" dia. keep the haft from binding in
the thread box as the threads are cut.
U e a V-block and a drill press with a fence to drill a
centered 7/ 8" dia. hole in the head of the screw for the
44 Jlmeric_Woodworker.com OCTOIEII / NOVEMIU lOll
Fig. B The Wooden Screw and Handle

~------------------------------- 20_~qH ------------------------------------~

handle (E). Turn the handle from an 18" long maple


blank turned to a 1-1/4" dia. Turn the haft to 3/ 4" dia.,
with a knob on each end. On one end, next to the knob,
turn the shaft down to a 9/16" dia. tenon. Remove the
handle from the lathe and cut off the knob that' next
to the tenon. Clamp this knob in a hand screw and drill
a 9/16" dia. topped hole for the tenon. Slide the shaft
of the handle through the hole in the head of the screw Lightly clamp the assembly in position. Then use a
and then glue on the knob. dead blow mallet to seat the dovetail joint. Level the
as embly with the front of the bench and then tighten
The fixed jaw the clamps. Drill pilot holes through the three counter-
Determine the fixed jaw's length by subtracting 16" sunk holes in the jaw and then install the lag bolts.
(the length required by the adjustable jaw) from the
overall length of your bench, including the two end Modify the base
cap . For the 0-1/2" long bench hown here, the fixed Adding the two jaws makes the top front-heavy. To keep
jaw measures 64-1/2". Thi jaw contain equally paced the bench from tipping forward, you'll probably have
holes for bench dogs (Fig. C). It consi ts of notched, to modifY the base. On the tre tle base shown here, the
angled fill blocks (F) that are sandwiched between two
rail (G). Make sure to have your bench dogs in hand
before you build, so you can size the dog holes to fit. Modify the
Mill blanks for the two 1-1/2" thick rails and the bench base by
3/4" thick fill blocks. Cut the blanks 3-13/16" wide and cutting off the
allow extra length for trimming. Set the miter fence to fronts of both
5° and u e the table aw to cut the fill-block blank into top rails. This
allows moving
nine 4-3/4" long blocks and two extra-long blocks to go
the base forward
on the ends of the assembly. Cut a 1/4" x 1-1/4" notch to center it under
in each fill block to allow the head of the bench dog the widened top.
to eat below the top surface. Drill a pair of counter- You'll also have to
sunk pilot hole in each fill block and glue them on cut a notch for the
one of the rail , u ing pacers to create 1" gap (Photo adjustable jaw's
5). Make sure all the notche face up and to the right. guide bar.
Clamp each block until you drive in the crews; then
remove the clamps. After all the blocks are fastened,
remove the screw. Then glue and clamp the remaining
rail. When the glue i dry, level the top of the laminated Make the
jaw and mill it to final 3-3/4" width. adjustable jaw's
Square the jaw' right end 4-1/2" from the first dog front block in two
hole. Then square the left end at the as embly's final pieces to create
length (flush with the outside edge of the left end its angled dog
beam). Clamp the jaw to the front of the bench, level hole. Cut a shallow
with the top and snug again t the end beam's dovetail. groove across the
Transfer the dovetail onto the end of the jaw. Then grain in each piece.
Then saw the
remove the jaw and cut the dovetail ocket in the end.
angled shoulders
Drill countersunk holes for the three 3/ "x 6" lag bolts and dear the
that anchor the jaw to the bench, in the middle and 3" waste.
from each end.
Install the fixed jaw (Photo 6). Apply glue to the
edge of the bench top and to the end cap' dovetail.
OCTOIER / IIOYIMIIR 3011 ADwric. .Woodwodr.... coDl 45
Fig. C The Fixed Jaw

~. x fp"LAG 8OLrC7YP)
CLllro LDIGrY/

9 SLOPE
The adjustable jaw
The adjustable jaw (Fig. O-G) looks like a narrow box,
but it's actually a rectangular frame consisting of a front
block (H), a rear rail (J), side and top piece (Kand L),
a guide bar (M) and a cross brace (N). The front block,
rear rail, ide and top foml the box that's the bu ine
end of the jaw: It hou e a bench dog and the wooden
crew that applie the clamping pre ure. Thi box i
supported by the right end cap and kept level \vith the
o lution i to shorten the top rail (Photo 7 ). Thi allow bench top by a tongue (P) that' attached to the front
moving the base forward under the top until it butts block. The guide bar and cro brace lide under the
against the fixed jaw. You'll al 0 have to cut a lot for the bench top. The guide bar, mortised into the rear rail,
adju table jaw's guide bar. It' best to make thi cut later, housed in the end cap and supported by a rub rail (Q),
when you're installi ng the adjustablejaw. holds the adju table jaw against the front of the bench
as it slide. The cro brace complete the frame by con-
necting the guide bar to the front block.
The bigge t challenge in building the adjustable
Glue the front jaw is cutting the angled dog hole in the center of the
block together front block (Fig. E). The u;ck is to make this block in
to create the dog two pieces (Photo 8 ). Cut a pair of identical 1-7/ 8" x
hole. Then drill 3-3/ 4" x 3-3/ 4" blocks. Then cut a preci ely centered
it to house the 1/ 4" deep x 3/ 4" wide dado acro the grain in each
wooden screw,
block, using a dado set and a miter gauge with a fence
dovetail it to
fit the side and and a top block. Clamp the blocks together with the
top pieces and dadoes facing each other and layout the end of the
mortise it for the angled dog hole on the top and bottom faces of both
cross brace. blocks. e the e depth marks and a hand aw to cut
the angled houlder. Clear the waste with a chisel and
cut the notch on one end. Then carefully glue the two
blocks together, using a pacer to preci ely align the
dadoe.
Cut dovetails on both ends of the adjustable jaw's
The front block ide (K) and top (L). (Note that the ide' front-block
slides in a dovetail are longer than its rear-rail dovetails.) Trans-
groove created fer the dovetail locations to the front jaw. Then cut the
by attaching a sockets and fit the joints (Photo 9).
rabbeted cleat The front block' back face has a tongue and a mor-
to the bench. A tise (Fig. F). The tongue (P) holds the block level \vith
tongue fastened the bench top as the ajdu table jaw opens and clo es
to the jaw fits the (Photo 10). It Iides in a groove created by a rabbeted
groove and keeps
cleat (R) that' attached to the bottom of the bench
the jaw flush with
the bench top as it top. The morti e in the front block house a tenon on
slides. the cro brace (N). Fasten the rabbeted cleat under
the bench top and then attach the tongue with glue and
screws and chop the morti e.
Cut the rear rail (J, Fig. G) to length and width.
46 JlmericaaWoodworker.com OCTOIU / NOVEMIER 10 11
Fig. 0 The Adjustable Jaw

M Read about building a bench with a


modem tail vise at
A~riQ~rmmM~

learn how to add the double-screw face vise at


A~Q~rmmM~

Fig. E Front Block


Cross-Section

1-!l2' ])M.
K
r--+-"",,;,...;.....,--, x :yq'
sroPPC])
Y/OL£

~--------------- l~-o/~·~----------~~

Routing a profile on its back end is optional-a matter


of taste. Layout and cut the dovetail ockets on its top Install the
and front end and chop the stopped morti e for the partially
guide bar (M) on its in ide face . Cut the guide bar and assembled
fit its tenon to the morti e in the rear rail. Cut and fit adjustable jaw
the cross brace (N) . Note that it' rabbeted to fit around to check the
alignment of the
the rabbeted cleat (R).
three holes for the
Layout and drill hole for the wooden screw in the wooden screw.
front block and rear rail. To make ure these holes align Then install the
with the threaded hole in the end cap, dry-assemble the top and test the
adjustable jaw' side, front block and rear rail and po i- jaw to make sure
tion the as embly on the bench. Mark the hole in the it slides smoothly.
rear rail after butting it again t the end cap. To mark the
hole in the front block, lide the as embly back until the
block butts again t the end cap. Before marking each
hole, make sure the top edge of both piece are flu h.
Drill a 1-1/ 2" dia. x 3/ 4" topped hole in the front block Locate the
and a 2" dia. through hole in the rear rail. Re-assemble mortise for
the adju table jaw, add the guide bar and cross brace, the garter that
and te t its operation on the bench (Photo 11 ). Make secures the
ure there ' a mall gap between the right end cap (B) wooden screw
and the real rail (J) when the jaws are tightly closed. in the adjustable
jaw. Position the
screw with its
Final assembly and mounting
head snug against
Turn the adjustable jaw upside down to locate the mor-
the jaw's rear rail.
ti e for the garter that holds the wooden crew (Photo Then transfer the
12 and Fig. G). Butt the head of the crew again t the garter groove's
rear rail and center its collar over the hole. Tran fer the location.
locations of both garter groove houldel to thejaw and
use these marks to chop tile mortise. ~lake tile garter ( ).

OCTOllR / NOVI M I I R 2011 llm.ericanWoodworker.com 47


Cutting List
Fig. F Bench Top Cross-Section at Front Block
Section Part Name Qty. Material Th x W xL
left end beIm 1 _ 1-314" xJ..3/4" 125-1/T (a)
Right end beam 1 Maple 1-3/4' x3-3/4' x27-1/4' (b)
DcMtiIIed~ 10 M SlrI7"'14" (q _ _-,
S<rew 1 Maple 3' dia. x2G-1 /4'
.... 1", 1..114".1.116-314"
Fill block 11 Maple 3/4' x3-3/4"x4-3/4" (d)
W 2 _ In/TIHI4"x64-1/T (e)
Front block 1 Maple H /4' xH /4' x3-3/4' (f)
Ruml 1 _ 1-7'" xH/4"116"

-------~>I
Side 1 Maple 112"x3-1/4' x16"(g)
Top 1 _ 1/T I H/4"I 14" (h)
12" Guide bar 1 Maple 3/4' x2' x33' 0)
CnlSSbrIC! 1 _ l'xrl~l/4' (tI
Fig. G Rear Rail Tongue 1 Maple 9/16' x5/8' x3-1/2'
. . rail 1 _ 11116"1 1-11r I 24"
II -%" ----~ Rabbeted cleat 1 Maple l ' x2" x15" (I)
:;" ~:Lf!. ,'---'""--' ....,
6nr =~_,~1_"~ l/I"I2-3/4"I4"(m)

Notes:
a) For 24" wide bench top; extends 1-1/2" beyond front edge of bench top.
b) For 24"wide bench top; extends 3-1/4' beyond front edge of bench top.
e) Sides slope at 9' .
d) Ends slope at 5'; 1/4' x1-1/4" notch atone end. Make two of the fill bIocksS"long.
e) For SO-1/2" long bench, including end caps. Start with 67" long blank.
f) Create by gluing together two 1-7/S' x3-3/4"x3-3/4" blocks.
g) Dovetails are 1-7/S" long on one end and 1-3/S" long on the other end.
h) Cut 5/S" long dovetails on both ends.
Buy the Disc j) Cut 3/S" x1-1/2"x1" tenon on one end.Trim length if necessary
1/5 Workbench Plans" II) Cut 3/S"x1-1/2" x1"tenon on one end with adjacent 1/4" x2-1/2" rabbet.
I) Cut 5/S" x3/4" rabbet on one edge.
at awbookstore.com m) On one end, cut a centered 1-1/2"x1-3/4" slot with a round bottom.

Glue the adju table jaw together in tage. Start by


Mount the gluing the dovetailed side, top, front block and rear rail
adjustable jaw to create the body. Mount the body on the bench. Then
and thread in work from underneath to glue and attach the guide bar
the screw until and cro brace. Install the wooden crew by threading it
its head seats
through the hole in the end cap until it seats against the
against the rear
jaw' rear rail (Photo 13). At the other end, the screw
rail. Install the
garter and then
will be housed in the hole in the front block. Tap in the
test for smooth garter to lock the crew in position. Fini h by fastening
operation. the rub rail (Q) to track the guide bar as the vise open
and clo e (Photo 14). On this bench, the rub rail rein-
force the notch in the base that house the guide rail.
If your in tallation doe n't allow notching the base, thi
rub rail i e entia! for the vi e to track properly. ..6

SOURCES
flip over the • Woodcraft. woodcraft.com, 800-225-1153, Woodthreading Kit,
bench top and 1-1/2' x 6 TPI, #1 2T17, $47.99.
install a rub rail • Lee Valley Tools, leevalley.com, 800-871 -8158, Veritas Square Bench
against the guide Dogs (pair) #05G02.01 , $39.50.
bar to ensure the
adjustable jaw
remains parallel
to the front of the
bench top as it
Steve Bunn owns and
opens and closes.
operates a cabinet hop in
Bowdoinham. Maine. where
he peciaIizes in crafting
Wmdsor chairs. See more
of~' workat
8teftDbuaa.c:om.
41 JlmerlcaaWoocIworker.com OCTOIU / NOVIMIII 3011

This truly versatile clamp


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t tight
From 0-23/;' with no change in the
clamping force that U,!! set.
ustabl C ce
Adjustable within a range of 25 - 550 Ibs of
afe
clamping force; holding capacity of 700 Ibs.
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Op Flexlb y means greater clamping safety as surface
Choose one clamp for a variety of variations cannot result in settings that are
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For accurate
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by Steve Lehmann

Sacrificial inserts Hold-down clamps Deep capacity


Make a bunch to prevent blowout when The T-track is mounted so securely that The table's design allows you to clamp the
you drill through a workpiece. you can use very strong clamps. fence all the way back.

50 AmadcaaWoodworker.COIIl OCTOI •• / NOV •• I •• ZOI I


Glue two
DID YOU KNOW that mo t drill pr
pieces of 3/4"
table are made for metalworkin MDF face-to-
Woodworkers need a better table: it face to make
hould have a broad urface, an eas- the table. Use
ily adjustable fence with a top, hold- cauls above
downs and replaceable inserts. and below
I've tudied many plan for a to distribute
table with the e featutes, but each clamping
one eem to have a hortcoming. pressure.
I've taken all of their be t quali-
tie and come up with a table that
hould ati fY all your need . It use
two type of Incra track-which I
like a lot-but other kind ofT-track
would work well, too.
Rout a recess
Make the table into the top of
the table for
The table is laminated from two lay-
holding the
ers of3/ 4" MDF. ut the upper piece inserts. Make a
(A) to exact ize; cut the lower piece square template
(B) about 1/ 4" oversize. Make a large and install a
notch on the rear of the upper piece template guide
(Fig. B). (The deep section allows and straight bit
clearance for turning the table- in your router.
height adjustment crank.) First, drill
hole to make internal comers, then
cut the notch with a jigsaw. Cut out
the same notch on the lower piece,
but make thi notch about 1/ "
• smaller. Round the outside comers
• of the top piece using a template and Cut grooves
flush-trim bit or a file and sandpaper. to hold the
Glue the upper and lower piece T-track. Drill
together (Photo 1). Mter the glue a few holes
drie , rout all around the table with through the
J: grooves, then
V a flu h trim bit to even up the edge
< insert 1/4"
'"a:J: of the two piece . cap screws
oa: Build a template for routing
:.<
through the
Z
<
the rece for the sacrificial inserts holes.
a:
~
(Fig. C). Glue the template' piece
z
o
;:::
around a quare piece of plywood,
<
a: then fasten them together with
~

'" rews. In tall a template guide and


~ u-aight bit in your router and make
a te t rece in a scrap piece of MDF.
(This is a good time to plan ahead: If Slide the
your inserts will be made from a up- T-track over
ply of 1/2" or 3/ 4" sheetstock, adjust nuts that
your router's depth of cut to match are attached
thi material's thickne .) The test to the ends
cut will give you the exact ize of the of the cap
rece . Back on the real table, draw screws.
Tighten the
the rece (Fig. B) and drill holes at
screws from
each comer. (These hole will allow
underneath
you to easily remove an insert) Po i- the table.
tion the template over the hole and This T-track is
rout the rece (Photo 2). never coming
U ing a dado set, cut groove in loose!
the table for the T-track (Photo 3).
OCTOIER / NOVEMIER 2011 AftwricaaWoocIworker.com S1
On the bottom of the table, carefully layout the hole
for the crews that will fasten the T-track in place (Fig.
F) . Use a Forstner bit to drill the large diameter por-
Fig. A
tion of the holes first, then finish drilling the holes
Exploded View
using a smaller bit. (The head of the e screws are
rece ed 0 the table wiII have a smooth bottom. This
make it easier to clamp a workpiece to the table.)
Install the screw and washer through the holes,
then 100 ely attach the nuts. Slide the T-track over the
nuts (Photo 4). Once the T-track is positioned, tighten
Fig.B
the crew from underneath. Thi extra-strong fasten-
Plan View ofTable
ing sy tern prevents the upward force of the hold-down
," clamp from yanking the T-track out of the table.

Fence and inserts


," Make the fence by cutting the ba e (C) to size. Cut a
notch in the base so it can clear the drill pres column
(Fig. D). You could screw a wooden fence to the base; I
cho e an Incra fence because it has a scale and built-in
Fig. C T-tracks for holding a stop block.
Insert Routing Drill holes for the bolts that will clamp the base to
Template the table' T-track. Drill holes for the threaded in erts
~ ~ that hold the Incra fence (Fig. E). In tall the in erts
/8
</-y</" Sq. OP&lIN'G ----.:~~-- ~ and the fence.
Make a large supply of in erts to fit the recess in the
table. Set aside one in ert and draw cro hairs on it indi-
Fig. 0 cating where the center of the table will be (Fig. B) .
Plan View of Fence
Install the table
Install a small bit in the chuck of your drill press. Posi-
tion the new table under the chuck, aligning the bit
with the eros hairs you drew on the in ert. Under-
neath the cast-iron table of the drill pre , trace the
outline of the mounting holes with a pencil.
The strongest way to fasten the wood table to the
cast-iron table is by using 1/ 4- 20 bolts, fender washer
Fig. E Side View of Fence Fig. F T-track Mounting Detail and threaded inserts. (MDF doesn 't hold screws very
well.) Turn the wooden table over and drill hole in it
as far apart as possible for the threaded inserts. Avoid
drilling into the sacrifical-insert rece s. Install the
threaded inserts and mount the table. Add the fence
and you're ready to go! ..6

SOURCES
Incra, incra.com, 972-242-9975, Incra T-track Plus, 18"
long (TIRACKPLUS18), $9.95; Incra Shop Track, 36"
long (TRACK36), $72.95; Incra Shop Stop, $32.95.

Shopping Ust Woodpeckers, woodpeck.com. 800-752-0725, Star


Knob, 1/4-20. #13-KN115, $0.75 ea.; Hold Down
• 8 socIcet-head cap 5Cn!W5, 114-20 x 1- Clamp - Pivot Style, #HDCG-PIV-WP. $7.99 ea.
• 10 washers, 114-
• 8 nuts, 114-20
• 2 hex-head bolts, 114-20 x 1-1/2- Cutting List OVerall Dimensions: 1-1/2"1hx24' Wx1S"D
• 6 threaded Insert!,. 1~24
• 6 round-head machine screws. 1~24 x 314- and washers Part Name Qty. ThxWxl
• 2 star knobs with 114-20 Inserts
• 4 threaded Inserts, 114-20
• 4 hex-head bolts, 1/4-20 x 1- and fender washers ( '-1liiie
A
B

o
r.e_ Lowertable

Insert
1
1
1
lI4"lWIlI"
3/4" x24-1/4" x18---,1,1--,4"_ --1
lI4" 1 (" 11/1'
1/2"x4" x4"
------

52 JlmericanWoodwol'kel'.com OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2011


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Wood-Mizer
800.553.0182 • ~;"wH",If,I', « j I l l
S rious b f Strong fast ning syst m Stabl s anc
Double and triple thicknesses of 3/4" The legs and rails are bolted together The legs splay out in both directions.
plywood, plus 120 Ibs. of sand, provide using copper tubes to house the nuts.
ample mass to absorb vibration. These joints will never shake loose.
54 JlmericaaWoocIworker.com OCTOI E RINOY E M IE R 1011
A GOOD STAND i ju t as import<.ult a' a good lathe. As Glue two sheets
a profe ional turner, I can't emphasize enou h how of 3/4" Baltic
important it i to have a tand that' table, strong and birch plywood
hea\' '-particularly for bowl turnin . Thi one meets face-to-face to
all tho e requirements, and i better than man steel make the legs.
Use torsion beams
tands, yet it' just made from ph'Wood.
or other large
Building your own stand has another major advan- cauls to flatten
tage: You can cu tomize its height. Turning on a tand the plywood and
that' the right height allows you to control your tool to provide even
much easier, and i Ie fatiguing, too. Time to do it! pressure.

Make the parts


First determine your tand' height and length (ee
" izing Your tand," page 57). Thi tand i d(' igned for
a person about 5' "tall and a lathe that is 2 "long with
an axi 9" above its base. (I built thi particular tand for Cut a 5° angle
a Vicmarc VLIOO.) Adju t the cutting Ii t if nece sary to on the top and
bottom of each
fit your height and your lathe' dimensions.
leg. This angle
Most of the plywood parts are made from two pieces
creates the side-
glued together, face-to-face. Cut the piece for the e to-side splay.
parts lightly oversize (Fig. A, Parts A, D, E, F, G, Hand
J). Glue them together (Photo 1).
Cut the top interior (A) to final ize. Glue edge
banding on all four ide (B and ,Fig. ). Trim the
edging flu h with the interior.
Double-splayed legs are the key to the bas • stabil-
ity (Figs. Band C). e your tablesaw or circular aw to
cut the top and bottom end of the leg at 5° (Photo 2).
Before you cut each leg, make ure the e angle lean
the arne way, not in oppo ite directions. Layout and
cut the tapers on the long ide of the leg (Photo 3). Use a saw guide
Rip the rails (E, F and G) and helve (H and J) and a circular saw
to final width. Trim the piece to length, cutting their to taper the legs.
end at 5° in oppo ing direction. (Leave the top helf
extra-long for now, so you can adju t it<; po ition later, if
r
nece ary.) In addition, cut the helve' front and back
<
'"
a:
r
edge, and the rails' top edge, at 5°. On the bottom
oa: helf, leave the front edge quare. (Note that the front
'"<Z bottom rail i not angled to follow the legs' taper. It is
a:
~
et back 0 you won't bump your ankle .) Make the tool
z
o dividel (N) and fasten them to the top helf.
~
a:
'" The fastening system
~
To make the joints, tart b laying out the bolt-hole in
a:: the legs (Fig. C and D). Tilt 'our drill pre table to 5°,
Z
put a 3/ 8" bit in the chuck and drill the hole (Photo 4). Drill holes
..,z
'"oz e a fence to en ure that all the hole are the arne angled at 5° for
di tance from the tapered edges of the leg. Re et the the bolts that will
'"<
fence for the front bottom rail hole. join the stand.
~ Make the rails
~
Temporarily clamp together the leg and all four
a:
rail. ing a hand drill and tl1e arne 3/ 8" bit, extend from doubled-up
"....oo each bolt-hole into its corre ponding rail (Photo 5). Dis- plywood. then
J: cut their ends at
0..
assemble the base. Ifnece ary, drill the e holes deeper.
5°. Temporarily
Layout the hole for the copper tubes that will hold
assemble the base
the nuts directly from the hole you just drilled. First, with clamps.
draw a centerline acro each hole. In ert the 3/ "bit.
dju t a liding bevel 0 it' parallel to the bit (each
hole may lean at a lightly different angle). Place the
bevel adjacent to the hole' centerline and draw a line
OCTOIU / NOVEMUR 1011 JlmarlcaaWOCNIworker.com 55
Fig. A Exploded View
y". x I-Y..1· Y/4 N'GE,f'
BOL-r( 7YP)
C -::::;;..~~-

~~~

_______
..... --.-.---....... ---
1....
~2~~~~~ __ q-~/: •
~·r .. -.. -.. --.. -·---· .. T~ :.....:...--+I~
;: !!:
?: : ~:
- 1~ _3/</··_·--'·_-...

Fig. C Leg Detail, Front View


Fig. 0 Joint Detail


See the complete plans for making the torsion beams


we used to glue this plywood together (Photo 1) at
AmericanWoodwoltrer.mm/WebExtras

Cutting List Overall dimensions: 36" Hx38-718" l x18-7/8' D(a) I-----4-J


Part Name Qty. Material ThxWxL
lip 2-111" 114" 134"

.. A

C

D
E
F
Interior
(AI' . . . . ., . .
Edgebanding ends

Legs
JaIl Ills
Bottom back rail
1
2
2

2
2
1
3/4" Baltic bird! plywood
GIlt
Oak

3/4" Baltic biIdI plywood


314" IIIIIcblldl ~
3/4" Baltic biIdI plywood
2-1/8" x13" x33" (b)
lIT 12-1/4" 134" (c)
1/2" x2-1/4" x13" (c)
JH/I'HI.7/1'WI~7/1'D(I)
1-3/S" x33-1/8" x18-3/4" (d)
H/8". 3-1IT. JH/4" (eI)
1-3/8" x3-1/2" x35-114" (d)
Shopping List

......
• Sixteen 3/S" x 4" hex head bolts
6 ......l'1li 1 314" Blllkblldllllr!llld 1-3/1' 13-1IT. ~114" (d) (e)
• Six 1/4" x 4-1 /2" lag screws

-
H Top shelf 1 3/4" Baltic biIdI plywood 1-3/8" x15" x32-1/8" (d)
J 1 314" Billlcblldl ~ 1-318" .13"134-5/8" (d) • Sixteen 3/S" flat washers
• Sixteen 3/S" hex nuts

, ....
K Feet 4 Oak 3/4" x1-1/2" x4"
M 1 314" IIIIIcblldl ~ ]/4".12".12" • Four 1/4" x 1-1/2" hanger bolts
N Tool dividers 5 Oak 112" x1-114" x14-1/2" • Ten 1/4" flat washers
c.werlllles 16 ]/4"1.4. l-lIT • Four 1/4" hex nuts
Q Knock-out bar holder 1 Oak 1"x2"x6" • One pair 2-1/2" butt hinges
• One piece of 3/4" i.d. x 24" copper pipe
Notes:
.) Dimensions will vary deptnding on the lathe's size and your height .11vee 3/4" x S'x S'sheets Baltic birch plywood
II) Three 1ay!rS of 3/4" Baltic birch plywood • Two bd. ft. hardwood
c) Cut oversize, then trim
d) Two thicknesses of 3/4" Baltic birch plywood
.) Do not angle top and bonom of front rail

S6 JlmericaaWoodwolrkelr.com OCTOBER / NOVEMBER lOll


down the face of the rail (Photo 6). ~lark the center of Drill Into the
the copper-tube hole on thi line (Fig.D). ralls through the
0
Re et the drill pre table to 90 and drill the copper- holes in the legs.
tube hole all the way through the rail using a 7/ 8" Disassemble the
Forstner bit (Photo 7) . base.
Cut 1-1 / 2" lengths of 3/ 4" i.d. copper pipe (P) and
tap them into each hole (Photo 8). Put the 3/ 8" bit
back in the drill. Push the bit into each bolt hole and
drill through the near ide of each copper tube.

Assemble the stand


Drill hole through the top rails for the lag crews
that fasten the top. Clamp the legs and all of the rails
together again. In ert a bolt through each hole. Slide a
nut into the copper tube, hold it again t the bolt with a
flat-bladed crewdriver, and tighten the bolt. Insert the same
Attach the shelve and feet (K) using countersunk drill bit into
wood crews. The exact po ition of the top shelf will the rails. Using
depend on the length of the motor's drive belt. Mter a sliding bevel,
transfer the bit's
determining the top shelf's proper height, cut it to angle to the rail's
length. To fasten the top helf, mark its location, then face. This enables
tip the base up ide down. The helfwill stay put because you to find the
its ends are tapered. Run crews through the leg and exact center of
into the helf. the holes for the
Attach the top. Po ition your lathe on the tand. (If copper tubes that
your lathe has a eparate motor, place it on the upper will hold the nuts.
helf about where it will go. Line up the lathe' pul-
ley with the motor' pulley.) Mark the lathe's mount-
ing holes. Mark the passage hole for the belt (Fig. A).
Bolt the motor to the motor mount (M) and attach the
motor mount to the top shelf using hinge. DrIll holes for
Remove the lathe and cut out the belt-passage hole. the copper
Pre-drill hole for the hanger bolts that will fasten the tubes using a
lathe to the tand. Install the hanger bolts and mount 7/S" Forstner
the lathe. Finally, crew on the knock-out bar holder bit Precision is
(Q) and a hanger for your wrench. Apply fini h if you important for a
strong joint and
wi h . .A
easy assembly.
pedal thanks to Bill Hull oj Nonnan, OK, who helped
design my original stand more than 20 years a~
it sstill going strong!

Sizing Your Stand


"One size fits air doesn't work for a lathe stand-lts height Tap copper
should suit your height tubes, made from 8
You1l need two measurements to calculate your stand's copper pipe, into
height Arst, If you1l use a floor mat. stand on top of It Bend the holes. Drill
your ann at the elbow to fonn a 90" angle. Measure the through the ends
distance from the floor to the top of your fingers. Second. of the rails and
measure the distance from the center of the lathe's spindle through the tubes
to the bottom of the lathe's base. Subtract this distance from to finish the joint
your hand-height-this Is the Ideal height for your stand.
The length of the stand depends on more than just the
length of the lathe. You1l need enough room at the stand's
left end so that your feet won't bump Into its leg. When you're
wortdng out your stand's dimensions, drop an Imaginary
plumb line from the chuck's face to the floor. Allow about 1rY'
between the plumb line and the Inside face cI the leg.

OCTOIEII/NOVE.I.II 1011 &meric. .Wooclwodr.... com 57


Clear the air Goanywh r A solid platform
Capture dust through the downdraft top. Move easily on the mobile base. Support benchtop power tools.

,. .lmericaaWoodworker.com OCTOIU/NOVE.IEI J I l l
Fig. A The Cabinet

4-'/2" 1>IA. y/OLE


BiAS'-
GIfn

/")(/&'")(25
ru/lif'-.....,..·

Fig.B
The Cord Rack ,/,,"-20

r---- M4cY/IliE
SC/('Ew Fig.C
Mobile Base
I ~ w4Sy/E/('
Details SC/('Ew

o
~'/2"
~
4111> y/OOK

COd ..trE/('Sd11K
Y/OLE ro/(' liar
III BO-rrOM

HERE'S A SOLUTION TO A NAGGING PROBLEM-how to


contain workshop du t without bu ting your budget.
This cabinet i both a portable dust collector and a
downdraft anding table. It tand tablesaw-height, 0
it al 0 serve as an outfeed surface. Hidden inside the
cabinet i a mini dust collector that costs about 100.
Such a small collector has limitation, of cour e, but
it will easily pay for itself by reducing hou ecleaning
chores. U ing leftover plywood and crap lumber fur-
ther limits expense.
A mobile ba e makes this cabinet easy to move
from machine to machine-much easier than hors-
ing around the collector and its filtration bag. Thi
cabinet al 0 works well as a mobile base for benchtop
tool. Onboard blast gates direct the airflow to the
downdraft top or to the external port, and a switched The wheel bases fold flat against the bottom, and lock blocks
receptacle allows imultaneou Iy powering the collec- on the hinged lock plate securely hold them.
tor and a mall electric tool uch as a ander.
OCTOIEII / HOVEMln l01 I JlmericaaWood_rller.com 59
Fig. 0 The Downdraft Top Fig. F How to Lay Out the Angled Side Liners

o
M/l,f(l< LDI6-rY/
5-r0.f'( 5-rZCI< tJffY/
M4,f(l<0 tJ12>-rY/
/l-rCO,f'II£I(' ~~=--
®
M/l,f(l< 4116LO 512>£
Oil tJO,f(l<PZ£C£

Build the cabinet


The first order of busine is to purchase your mini dust
collector-then build your cabinet to fit. The collector
hown here carne from Harbor Freight, but several ver-
ion are available with lightly different dimensions ( ee
Source , page 62). U ing your available scrap plywood
and lumber may also require changing the dimensions.
Cut and assemble the top frame stiles and rails (AI
and A2, Fig. A, page 59, and Cutting List, page 62) with
Fig. E Top View of Downdraft Box glue and screws, dowels or biscuits. Cut the plywood sides
and back (A3 and A4) to ize. Cut a rectangular hole for
I'" ...... -y.:>·----~>I the 1" x 16" x 25" air filter in the middle of the back,
at least 1/2" maller than the filter on each side. Cut a
4-1 / 2" ilia. hole in the left side and install a blast gate.
Cut the bottom (A5) and the bottom supports (A6).
Build the face frame (A7 and AS). Assemble the cabinet
with glue and crews.
Glue and screw together the filter cover (A9-All).
Screw the filter frame (A12 and A13) to the filter cover,
o it fits nuglyaround the filter. Then crew the assembly
to the cabinet Assemble and install the cord rack (AI4,
Fig. A, and Fig. B). Its top hook swivels to facilitate remov-
ing the cord. In tall the ho e hook.

Attach the mobile base


Cut the wheel bases (Bl, Fig. A, and Fig. C) to ize and
install swivel casters with locks (see Source ). Attach the
base to the bottom of the cabinet with 3" x 2" hinges
so that they'll lay flat against the bottom supports in the
"mobile" po ition (Photo 1). Fasten the lock plate (B2)
to the cabinet back with the cabinet upside down and
the wheel base in the mobile position, using three 2" x
1" hinge . Then install the base locks (B3) to hold the
wheel base against the support blocks. Install crew eye
and a hook to hold the lock plate out of the way when
it's not in use. To engage the mobile base, lock the cast-
ers, tip up the cabinet and rotate the wheel base under-
neath. Then engage the lock plate.

Build the downdraft top


Cut the box front and back, sides and bottom (CI-C3,
Fig. D). Cut the 4-1 / 2" ilia. hole for the dust port in the
A mini dust collector resides inside the cabinet with ducting to bottom. Note: This hole is positioned to align with the
the downdraft top and to an external port. Blast gates control collector' intake. Figure D shows the hole's location for
the airflow. the Harbor Freight collector. A different collector may
eo JlmertcUlWoodworiler.com OCTOIER / NOVEMIER 2011
require adjusting the hole' location. This require in tail- Fig. G Electrical Box Configuration
ing the collector in the cabinet first, then adjusting the
downdraft top to fit ( ee "In tall the collector, ho e and ME:r4L L/" x L/" x 2-Y&'" JtltlC-r.l:tJtI BOx
fittings," below). ME:r4L Y2" CO~ ME:r4L ,/MtI])
Assemble the downdraft box \\ith glue and crews. Cut cL4MP wnw ,f'ZtlG ,f'4Z50 % "
the rectangular box liners (C4-C7, Fi . D and Fig. E) from 5~4ZtI '
1/4" MDF. Bevel the top and bottom edge of the front and 2045wIlCW,
154 ])tlPLD<
back liners (C4 and CS) so they'll re t flush against the side ,f'ECEPr4cLE
and bottom of the box. Glue these two liners in place.
Figure F shows how to cut the rectangular right-side
and left-side liners (C6 and C7) to fit in ide the box. U e a
block plane to bevel their top , bottoms and angled ides 0
they'll re t flush. Then glue them in place.
Install a 4" port on the bottom. Cut the top (CB) to size
and glue on the edge bands (C9 and CI0). Center an IS"
x 24" xl" grid on the top and then drill 1/ 2" dia. holes at
each point on the grid. U e a countersink bit lowly and
carefully to ease the top edge of the holes. Drill counter-
unk pilot hole and then crew the top to the box.

Install the switch and receptacles


Install two metal junction boxe , one with a rai ed cover Fig. H Wiring Diagram
and a receptacle (to plug in the collector) and another with
a 5/ S" "mud ring" to house the external switch and recep-
.,;o-r_
N£tI17f4L =
tacle (Fig. G). Cut a hole for the S\\itch box and fasten a 1" G{'OtlN.J; -
x 1-1/ 2" x 4" cleat (AI5) on one ide \-vith glue and screws.
In tall the box 0 the S\vitch and receptacle are flush with
the outside of the cabinet The mud ring po itions the box
behind the cabinet side, so you can fasten it to the mount-
ing cleat-just like you'd anchor a box to a stud behind
drywall. Screw the receptacle box to the in ide cabinet wall.
Connect the two boxes with a metal offset nipple.
Create a power-supply cord by cutting off the receptacle
end of a 12-ga. 3-wire extension cord. Then carefully follow
the \-viring diagram to connect the circuits (Fig. H).
Once the connection are made, the \-vitch powers both
the blower and the receptacle, 0 you can tart and top the
collector and a mall power tool at the same time. Note: G,f'Otl;{]) 5C,f'Ew
The combined controlled load of both tools, as stated on COtitiECro -ro ME:r4L
JtltlC-rZOti BOX
their nameplates, cannot exceed the rated amperage or
horsepower of the \-vitch.

Install the collector, hoses and fittings Electrical Hardware


Remove the collector from its metal frame and fasten it • 1 metal junction box. 4" x4"x 1-1/2"
to the left ide of the cabinet \-vith the intake port facing • 1 metal exposed work cover for one receptacle, 4"
up (Photo 2 and Fig. J). Attach a piece of plywood, if nec- box. raised 1/2"
• 1 metal junction box, 4" x 4" x 2-11B"
essary, to make the side of the base thick enough for the
• 1 metal plaster (or-mud; ring, two gang, for two
mounting bolts. Make sure that the intake port align (rela- outlets, 4" box. raised SIB" (for 1/2" plywood)
tively well) with the port in the downdraft top. • 1 metal offset nipple, 1/2"
Assemble the ho es and connectors. Fashion a hook to • 1 metal cord clamp with strain relief, 1/2"
hold the dust bag hose at the top of the cabinet Install an • 3 conduit lock nuts, 1/2"
external pull (AI6) for the blast gate that controls airflow • 2 duplex receptacles, 1SA
to the downdraft table (Photo 3). It's a 10" length of 3/ 4" • 1 switch, 20A
dowel \-vith a knob attached on one end and a slot sawn • 1 grounded power cord with plug, 12 ga.. 3-wire,
hallivay through about 1" from the other end. Drill a 3/ 4" 2fY1ength
dia. hole through the cabinet, centered on the bottom • 3 solid copper wires for hot. neutral and
ground, 12 ga.. 2' length, each
edge of the blast gate's pull handle. Insert the pull through
the hole and gently lock the blast gate handle in the slot

OCTOIER / NOVEMIER 1011 JlmericanWoocIworkel'.com 61


Cutting List Overall Dimensions 34-ln" Hx30"Wx26" 0
Fasten the top to the base
Drill pilot hole through the cabinet'
Section Part Name Qty. ThxWxL top frame. Then screw the down-
CJbiIet Tapt.e. JI4" I 2" I 21' draft top to the cabinet. Cut the door
Top frame rail - - " " 3/4"x2"x 14"- - - - '
(*-tide 112" I 1r I 30"
(A17) to final size with 3/ 8" rabbets
Cabinet back 1/2" x22" x30" (a) all around the inner edges and mount
CJIIIIet bDaIInI 112"IWI21' it with 3/ 8" in et hinges. Attach foam
1"x3-1/2"x18" weathersuipping in ide the rabbeted
314" 11-112" I 30" edge to create a eal when the door i
3/4" x1-1/2"x19"
314" I 1-112".26-112" (b) clo ed. Attach a knob and hop-made
3/4" x1-1/2" x14-1/2" latche to keep the door tightly clo ed.
112" .," .,7-'12"
Filter frame stile 3/4" x1" x26-112" SOURCES
Fllerfrallt rill ----,r.314" .," .16"
Cord rack 3/4" x4" x16" (c) • Harbor Freight, harborfreightcom, 800-423-2567.
0eIl ".'-'12".4" Mini Dust Collector. #94029, $94.99; Dust Collector
Blastgatepult 3/4" x10" (d) Accessory Kit, #93601 , $44.99; 3" Polyurethane
o.,_______ ~,
112" .,~ 112".27-1/2" (e) Swivel Caster with Lock. #96408. $6.99 ea.
Mobile Base
lAD.
Wheel bast

Baselodt
3/4" x4"x18-1/2"
314".4".22"
3/4" x3/4" x3"
• Grizzly Industrial, grizzly.com. 800-523-4777.
1 HP Light Duty Dust Collector, # G1163. $149.45.
rat/lid -~-' 3I4"13'124' -~--' • Penn State Industries, pennstateind.com
Side 3/4" x3" x18-1/2" 800-377-7297. 1HP Economy Portable Dust
IIaaam 314".20" I 24" Collector. #DC660P. $199.95.
Front liner 114" x4-114"x22-1/2"
llidtlner 114" I 11-1/4' I 22-112" • The air filter, hinges. foam weatherstrip-
Right side liner 1/4"x13-118"x18-1/2" (f) ping and electrical hardware are available
letsldelner 114" I 5-SII" .,8-'/2" If) at home centers and hardware stores.
Top 1 3/4" x24"x28" (g)
r./bD!I!II!!I- - -2 '"."130" (h)
Side edging 2 1"xl"x26"(h) Buy the book
....._1 'Workshop Dust (ontro/"
Notes: I) Cut a 3/8" rabbet around the inside edge and
I) Cut centered 14-112" .23-1/2" hole. install weatherstripping. at awbookstore.com
b) Cut centered 112" x' "through dado for f) Use Fig. Eto cut the angled sides.
middle rail. g) Drill 1/2" dia. holes through the top, following
() Drill'" dia. holes for dowels. a 1". 18".24" grid.
d) Screw a knob on one end; cut a slot halfway h) Miter both ends. L/ ~ BL4s-r G4-rES
through about '" from the other end. ~....It:"',.....-- L/ ~ Po,r;;r

y --~
CONNEC-rO,f'

Y/OSE
Fig. J c L4MP
Dust Collector
Installation

Suwat Phruksawan
works for a financial finn.
managing a software develo~
ment team that builds Smart-
Phone apps. Whenever his
An external pull-a dowel with a slot near one end-controls workload allo , Suwat finds
the downdraft table's blast gate. sanctuary in woodworking.

62 &mericaaWooclwolrkelr.cOIIl OCTOIU / NOVEMIU 2011


, r , , , , , • 1 I • '
• • I 1 I , • • , , •

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Crazy Mistakes Woodworkers Make

Kick the Can


WHENIWASABOY, my dad taught me a great way to damage to the lid-it worked great.
re- eal a can of tain. He would place the open Years later, I wa n 't paying attention and didn 't
can on the floor with the 100 e lid in po ition on lift my foot high enough to clear the can of tain.
the can, and place a paper towel on top of the lid. Tru t me when I ay, "You'll only make thi mistake
Then he would place his foot flat on the towel- once in your life." I think of that me every time I
covered lid, shift hi weight onto the can and clo e a can of paint or tain-using a mallet.
pin him elf around 360 degree . No patter, no Mike Saunder.

z
o
;:::
<
a:
l-
V"

:!
-'

z
o
V"
Z
I
Q
Make your woodworking mistakes pay! Send us your most memorable "What was I thinking?" blunders. You'll
receive S100 for each one we print. E-mail to: oops4PAmerkanWooctworlwr.com or send to AW Oops!, American
Woodworker, 1285 Corporate Center Drive, Suite 180, Eagan, MN 55121 . Submissions can't be retumed and become our
property upon acceptance and payment. We may edit submissions and use them in all print and electronic media.

66 JlmericaaWooclwodter.com OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2011


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