Detroit Diesel Engine Series 92 Manual

SERIES 92 SERVICE MANUAL
ABSTRACT
This manual provides instruction for servicing on-highway, industrial, generator set, and marine
applications of the Detroit Diesel Series 92 Engines.
Specifically a basic overview of each major component and system along with recommendations
for removal, cleaning, inspection, criteria for replacement, repair and installation and mechanical
troubleshooting are contained in this manual.
DDEC® III/IV troubleshooting concerns are contained in the DDEC III/IV Single ECM
Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE497.
3M Super Tack™ is a trademark of Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing Company. Aeroshell® is a registered trademark of Shell Oil Company.
Allison® is a registered trademark of General Motors Corporation. Alvania® is a registered trademark of Shell Oil Company. Barber-Colman®
is a registered trademark of Barber-Colman Company. Biobor® is a registered trademark of United States Borax and Chemical Corporation.
Cindol® is a registered trademark of E.F. Houghton & Co. DDEC® is a registered trademark of Detroit Diesel Corporation. Delco Remy®
is a registered trademark of Delco Remy America, Inc. Donaldson® is a registered trademark of Donaldson Company, Inc. Dow Corning®
is a registered trademark of Dow Corning Corporation. Endurion® is a registered trademark of Jason Incorporated. Fuel Pro® is a registered
trademark of Davco Manufacturing, L.L.C. Jabsco® is a registered trademark of ITT Industries. Jake Brake® is a registered trademark of Diesel
Engine Retarders, Inc. Kent-Moore® is a registered trademark of SPX Corporation. Leece-Neville® is a registered trademark of Leece-Neville
Company. Loctite® is a registered trademark of Loctite Corporation. Lubriplate® is a registered trademark of Fiske Brothers Refining Company.
Lubrite® is a registered trademark of Henkel Corporation. Mobilgrease® is a registered trademark of Mobil Oil Corporation. Permatex® is a
registered trademark of Permatex Inc. POWER COOL® is a registered trademark of Detroit Diesel Corporation. POWER Trac® is a registered
trademark of Detroit Diesel Corporation. Red-Jaket® is a registered trademark of INCOM International, Inc. reliabilt® is a registered trademark
of Detroit Diesel Corporation. Rockford® is a registered trademark of Rockford Powertrain, Inc. Sea Pro® is a registered trademark of Davco
Manufacturing, L.L.C. Shell® is a registered trademark of Shell Oil Corporation. Starrett® is a registered trademark of L.S. Starrett Company.
STP® is a registered trademark of First Brand Corporation. Teflon® is a registered trademark of E.I. DuPont de Nemours and Company, Inc.
Texaco® is a registered trademark of Texaco, Inc. Twin Disc® is a registered trademark of Twin Disc, Inc. Viton® is a registered trademark
of DuPont Dow Elastomers L.L.C. Volvo® is a registered trademark of Volvo Trademark Holding AB. WD-40® is a registered trademark of
WD-40 Company. Woodward® is a registered trademark of Woodward Governor Company.
REVISION NOTIFICATION
Modifications to this manual are announced in the form of Service Information

Bulletins. The bulletins include attachment pages and are posted on the World Wide Web
(www.detroitdiesel.com/svc/sibindex.htm).
All information subject to change without notice.

6SE379 0303 Copyright © 2003 DETROIT DIESEL CORPORATION i
Revisions to this manual will be sent marked with a revision bar (see Example 2). Sections
containing revisions will have a third line in the page footer (compare Examples 1 and 2).

ii 6SE379 0303 Copyright © 2003 DETROIT DIESEL CORPORATION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
GENERAL INFORMATION ...................................................................... 1

SCOPE AND USE OF THIS MANUAL .................................................... 3
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ........................................................................ 3
FLUOROELASTOMER (VITON) CAUTION ............................................. 11
SERVICE PARTS AVAILABILITY ............................................................. 12
CLEARANCE AND TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .................................... 12
THE TWO CYCLE PRINCIPLE FOR DIESEL ENGINES ........................ 13
GENERAL DESCRIPTION ...................................................................... 14
DDEC DIAGNOSTIC READER CAUTION .............................................. 16
DDEC I ..................................................................................................... 17
DDEC II .................................................................................................... 18
DDEC III .................................................................................................. 18
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS ................................................................. 19
ENGINE MODEL, SERIAL NUMBER AND OPTION LABEL ................... 22
REPAIR AND REPLACE .......................................................................... 25
DISASSEMBLY ....................................................................................... 26
CLEANING ............................................................................................... 26
INSPECTION .......................................................................................... 27
ASSEMBLY .............................................................................................. 28
FABRICATING, ALTERING, REMOVING AND DISPOSING OF
GASKETS ................................................................................................ 28
ENGLISH TO METRIC CONVERSION .................................................... 29
DECIMAL AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS ................................................ 31
SPECIFICATIONS ................................................................................... 31
1 ENGINE
1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK ................................................................................. 1-3
1.2 CYLINDER BLOCK END PLATES ........................................................... 1-38
1.3 CYLINDER HEAD ................................................................................... 1-47
1.4 VALVE AND INJECTOR OPERATING MECHANISM .............................. 1-74
1.5 EXHAUST VALVES ................................................................................. 1-102
1.6 VALVE ROCKER COVERS ...................................................................... 1-126
1.7 CRANKSHAFT ........................................................................................ 1-133
1.8 CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALS (FRONT AND REAR) .................................. 1-165
1.9 CRANKSHAFT CAP ................................................................................ 1-175
1.10 CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SHELLS ............................................... 1-178
1.11 ENGINE FRONT COVER ........................................................................ 1-195
1.12 CRANKSHAFT OUTBOARD BEARING SUPPORT (TRUNNION) .......... 1-201
1.13 CRANKSHAFT REAR OUTBOARD BEARING SUPPORT ..................... 1-209
1.14 CRANKSHAFT VIBRATION DAMPER .................................................... 1-222
1.15 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY .......................................................................... 1-236
1.16 FLYWHEEL ............................................................................................. 1-241

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1.17 CLUTCH PILOT BEARING ...................................................................... 1-249

1.18 ENGINE DRIVE SHAFT FLEXIBLE COUPLING ..................................... 1-254
1.19 FLYWHEEL HOUSING ............................................................................ 1-262
1.20 PISTON AND PISTON RINGS ................................................................. 1-283
1.21 CONNECTING ROD ................................................................................ 1-307
1.22 CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS ............................................................ 1-326
1.23 CYLINDER LINER .................................................................................. 1-334
1.24 ENGINE BALANCE AND BALANCE WEIGHTS ..................................... 1-348
1.25 GEAR TRAIN AND ENGINE TIMING ...................................................... 1-349
1.26 CAMSHAFTS AND BEARINGS ............................................................... 1-357
1.27 CAMSHAFT GEARS ............................................................................... 1-385
1.28 IDLER GEAR AND BEARING ASSEMBLY .............................................. 1-393
1.29 CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR ................................................................ 1-416
1.30 BLOWER DRIVE GEAR AND SUPPORT ASSEMBLY ........................... 1-427
1.31 ACCESSORY DRIVE ............................................................................... 1-444
1.32 BALANCE WEIGHT COVER ................................................................... 1-467
1.A ADDITIONAL INFORMATION .................................................................. 1-471
2 FUEL SYSTEM
2.1 FUEL SYSTEM ....................................................................................... 2-3
2.2 MECHANICAL UNIT INJECTOR ............................................................. 2-7
2.3 ELECTRONIC UNIT INJECTOR .............................................................. 2-56
2.4 FUEL INJECTOR TUBE .......................................................................... 2-67
2.5 ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROLS ...................................................... 2-78
2.6 DDEC II .................................................................................................... 2-82
2.7 DDEC III .................................................................................................. 2-88
2.8 DDEC IV .................................................................................................. 2-94
2.9 ELECTRONIC FOOT PEDAL ASSEMBLY .............................................. 2-101
2.10 TURBO BOOST SENSOR ....................................................................... 2-102
2.11 OIL PRESSURE SENSOR ...................................................................... 2-105
2.12 OIL TEMPERATURE SENSOR ............................................................... 2-108
2.13 PULSE WHEEL DDEC III AND II (6V AND 8V ENGINES) ...................... 2-111
2.14 SYNCHRONOUS REFERENCE SENSOR (6V AND 8V) ........................ 2-118
2.15 TIMING REFERENCE SENSOR ............................................................. 2-122
2.16 COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR ................................................................... 2-134
2.17 COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR .................................................... 2-140
2.18 COOLANT PRESSURE SENSOR (12V AND 16V) ................................. 2-142
2.19 FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR ................................................................... 2-144
2.20 FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR ............................................................ 2-147
2.21 FUEL PUMP ............................................................................................ 2-150
2.22 FUEL STRAINER AND FUEL FILTER ..................................................... 2-175
2.23 FUEL COOLER ....................................................................................... 2-183
2.24 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR ...................................... 2-186
2.25 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR (VARIABLE
LOW-SPEED) .......................................................................................... 2-248
2.26 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR (VARIABLE HIGH
SPEED) .................................................................................................... 2-262

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2.27 VARIABLE SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR .................................... 2-271

2.28 SG HYDRAULIC GOVERNORS .............................................................. 2-324
2.29 PSG HYDRAULIC GOVERNOR .............................................................. 2-363
2.30 HYDRAULIC GOVERNOR DRIVE .......................................................... 2-372
2.31 HYDRAULIC GOVERNOR SYNCHRONIZING MOTOR ......................... 2-410
2.32 ELECTRONIC GOVERNOR .................................................................... 2-413
2.33 FUEL INJECTOR CONTROL TUBE (NON-DDEC ENGINES) ................ 2-414
3 LUBRICATING SYSTEM
3.1 LUBRICATION SYSTEM ......................................................................... 3-3
3.2 LUBRICATING OIL PUMP (6V AND 8V ENGINES) ................................ 3-11
3.3 LUBRICATING OIL PUMP (12V AND 16V ENGINES) ............................ 3-35
3.4 LUBRICATING OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE ........................... 3-49
3.5 LUBRICATING OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE .................................... 3-58
3.6 LUBRICATING OIL FILTERS ................................................................... 3-67
3.7 LUBRICATING OIL COOLER (PLATE TYPE) ......................................... 3-79
3.8 LUBRICATING OIL COOLER (TUBE TYPE) ........................................... 3-93
3.9 LUBRICATING OIL COOLER BYPASS VALVE ....................................... 3-111
3.10 OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK .............................................................................. 3-116
3.11 OIL PAN ................................................................................................... 3-119
3.12 VENTILATING SYSTEM .......................................................................... 3-126
4 COOLING SYSTEM
4.1 COOLING SYSTEM ................................................................................ 4-3
4.2 WATER PUMP (6V AND 8V ENGINES) .................................................. 4-5
4.3 WATER PUMP (12V AND 16V ENGINES) .............................................. 4-23
4.4 WATER MANIFOLD ................................................................................ 4-36
4.5 THERMOSTAT ........................................................................................ 4-40
4.6 RADIATOR .............................................................................................. 4-50
4.7 COOLANT PRESSURE CONTROL CAP ................................................ 4-63
4.8 ENGINE COOLING FAN .......................................................................... 4-66
4.9 HEAT EXCHANGER ............................................................................... 4-94
4.10 RAW WATER PUMP ................................................................................ 4-102
4.11 COOLANT FILTER AND CONDITIONER ................................................ 4-116
5 FUEL, LUBRICATING OIL, AND COOLANT
5.1 FUEL ........................................................................................................ 5-3
5.2 LUBRICATING OIL REQUIREMENTS ..................................................... 5-19
5.3 COOLANT ................................................................................................ 5-28
6 AIR INTAKE SYSTEM
6.1 AIR INTAKE SYSTEM .............................................................................. 6-3
6.2 AIR CLEANER ........................................................................................ 6-5
6.3 AIR SEPARATOR FILTER ELEMENT ..................................................... 6-13
6.4 AIR SHUTDOWN HOUSING ................................................................... 6-15
6.5 BLOWER .................................................................................................. 6-27

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6.6 TURBOCHARGER (AIRESEARCH) ........................................................ 6-88

6.7 TURBOCHARGER INTERCOOLER ........................................................ 6-120
6.8 TURBOCHARGER AFTERCOOLER ....................................................... 6-128
7 EXHAUST SYSTEM
7.1 EXHAUST SYSTEM ............................................................................... 7-3
7.2 EXHAUST MANIFOLD ............................................................................ 7-5
7.3 EXHAUST MANIFOLD (WATER-COOLED) ............................................ 7-11
8 ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
8.1 BATTERY-CHARGING ALTERNATOR .................................................... 8-3
8.2 STARTING MOTOR ................................................................................. 8-12
8.3 TACHOMETER DRIVE ............................................................................ 8-15
8.4 INSTRUMENTS ...................................................................................... 8-20
8.5 ENGINE PROTECTIVE SYSTEMS ......................................................... 8-24
8.6 ALARM SYSTEM .................................................................................... 8-46
8.7 OVERSPEED GOVERNOR ..................................................................... 8-53
9 POWER TAKE-OFF
9.1 POWER TAKE-OFF TORQMATIC CONVERTER ................................... 9-3
10 SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
10.1 AIR COMPRESSOR ............................................................................... 10-3
10.2 ENGINE BLOCK HEATER ....................................................................... 10-9
10.3 TRANSMISSIONS .................................................................................. 10-10
11 OPERATION AND VERIFICATION
11.1 PREPARATION FOR A FIRST TIME START ........................................... 11-3
11.2 STARTING .............................................................................................. 11-7
11.3 RUNNING ................................................................................................ 11-10
11.4 STOPPING .............................................................................................. 11-15
11.5 OPERATING CONDITIONS ..................................................................... 11-17
11.6 ENGINE RUN-IN PROCEDURES ........................................................... 11-51
12 ENGINE TUNE-UP
12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP ................................................................................. 12-3
12.2 EXHAUST VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT .................................... 12-28
12.3 FUEL INJECTOR TIMING ........................................................................ 12-32
12.4 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR INJECTOR RACK
CONTROL ADJUSTMENT (6V AND 8V ENGINES) .............................. 12-35
12.5 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR AND INJECTOR RACK
CONTROL ADJUSTMENT (12V AND 16V ENGINES) ........................... 12-87
12.6 STATIC DOUBLE WEIGHT LIMITING SPEED GOVERNOR GAP
CHECKING AND SETTING PROCEDURE ............................................. 12-119
12.7 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENT
(VARIABLE LOW-SPEED) ....................................................................... 12-130
12.8 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR FAST IDLE CYLINDER 12-141
12.9 GOVERNOR SETTINGS FOR "TT" ENGINES ........................................ 12-145

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12.10 VARIABLE SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR INJECTOR RACK

12.11 VARIABLE SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR AND INJECTOR RACK
12.12 SG VARIABLE SPEED HYDRAULIC GOVERNOR INJECTOR RACK
CONTROL ADJUSTMENT (12V AND 16V) ............................................. 12-224
12.14 GOVERNORS WITH SYNCHRONIZING MOTOR .................................. 12-244
12.15 SUPPLEMENTARY GOVERNING DEVICE ADJUSTMENT ................... 12-245
12.16 POWER CONTROL DEVICE ................................................................... 12-249
12.17 THROTTLE DELAY MECHANISM ADJUSTMENT .................................. 12-252
12.18 FUEL MODULATOR ............................................................................... 12-265
13 PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
13.1 PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE ITEMS DESCRIPTION .......................... 13-5
13.2 MAINTENANCE OF VEHICLE ENGINE .................................................. 13-6
13.3 MAINTENANCE OF STATIONARY AND INDUSTRIAL ENGINE ............ 13-12
13.4 MAINTENANCE OF PLEASURE CRAFT MARINE ENGINES ................ 13-16
13.5 LUBRICATING OIL .................................................................................. 13-19
13.6 OIL PRESSURE ...................................................................................... 13-26
13.7 LUBRICATING OIL FILTER ..................................................................... 13-27
13.8 FUEL STRAINER AND FILTER ............................................................... 13-29
13.9 FUEL TANK ............................................................................................. 13-32
13.10 FUEL CONTAMINATION ......................................................................... 13-33
13.11 FUEL LINES AND FLEXIBLE HOSES ..................................................... 13-34
13.12 COOLING SYSTEM ................................................................................ 13-36
13.13 WATER PUMP ........................................................................................ 13-49
13.14 COOLANT FILTER .................................................................................. 13-50
13.15 COOLANT FILTER/INHIBITOR PRECHARGE ELEMENT ...................... 13-51
13.16 RADIATOR .............................................................................................. 13-53
13.17 TURBOCHARGER AND EXHAUST CONNECTIONS ............................ 13-54
13.18 DRIVE BELTS ......................................................................................... 13-58
13.19 BATTERY ................................................................................................. 13-65
13.20 BATTERY CHARGING ALTERNATOR .................................................... 13-68
13.21 ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION MOUNTS .............................................. 13-70
13.22 ENGINE TUNE-UP ................................................................................. 13-71
13.23 BLOWER BYPASS VALVE ...................................................................... 13-72
13.25 AIR COMPRESSOR ............................................................................... 13-74
13.26 THROTTLE AND CLUTCH CONTROLS ................................................. 13-75
13.27 AIR BOX DRAIN TUBE ............................................................................ 13-76
13.28 AIR BOX CHECK VALVES ....................................................................... 13-77
13.29 SHUTTER OPERATION .......................................................................... 13-78
13.30 GOVERNOR, OVERSPEED GOVERNOR .............................................. 13-79
13.31 THROTTLE DELAY FUEL MODULATOR ................................................ 13-80
13.32 FAN HUB .................................................................................................. 13-81

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13.33 FAN (THERMO-MOUNTED) .................................................................... 13-83

13.34 THERMOSTATS AND SEALS ................................................................. 13-84
13.35 BLOWER SCREEN ................................................................................. 13-85
13.36 FUEL INJECTORS AND VALVE CLEARANCE ....................................... 13-87
13.37 VIBRATION DAMPER .............................................................................. 13-88
13.38 STARTING MOTOR ................................................................................. 13-89
13.39 EXHAUST SYSTEM ............................................................................... 13-91
13.40 CRANKCASE BREATHER (EXTERNALLY MOUNTED) ......................... 13-92
13.41 CRANKCASE BREATHER (INTERNALLY MOUNTED) .......................... 13-93
13.42 ENGINE (STEAM CLEAN) ....................................................................... 13-94
13.43 POWER TAKE-OFF ................................................................................ 13-95
13.44 TORQMATIC CONVERTER .................................................................... 13-97
13.45 REDUCTION GEAR ................................................................................. 13-99
13.46 TRANSIT COACH CONVERTER MUFFLER .......................................... 13-101
13.47 AIR CLEANER ........................................................................................ 13-103
13.48 AIR SYSTEM .......................................................................................... 13-106
13.50 AIR SHUTDOWN VALVE ......................................................................... 13-111
13.51 COOLING SYSTEM (MARINE) ............................................................... 13-112
13.52 HEAT EXCHANGER CHANGEOUT INTERVAL ...................................... 13-113
13.53 HEAT EXCHANGER ELECTRODES AND CORE (RAW WATER
SYSTEM ZINCS) ..................................................................................... 13-116
13.54 RAW WATER PUMP ................................................................................ 13-118
13.55 FUEL AND BOOST COOLERS ............................................................... 13-121
13.56 TORQMATIC MARINE GEAR (6V AND 8V) ............................................ 13-122
13.57 MARINE GEAR (TWIN DISC 16V) .......................................................... 13-124
13.58 CLUTCH ACTUATOR (DDEC MARINE) .................................................. 13-126
14 STORAGE
14.1 PREPARING ENGINE FOR STORAGE .................................................. 14-3
14.2 TEMPORARY ENGINE STORAGE (30 DAYS OR LESS) ....................... 14-4
14.3 RESTORING A TEMPORARILY STORED ENGINE (30 DAYS OR
LESS) ....................................................................................................... 14-6
14.4 EXTENDED ENGINE STORAGE (MORE THAN 30 DAYS) .................... 14-7
14.5 RESTORING AN EXTENDED STORAGE ENGINE (MORE THAN 30
DAYS) ...................................................................................................... 14-13
14.6 STORAGE OF BATTERY ........................................................................ 14-16
INDEX ................................................................................................. Index-1

viii 6SE379 0303 Copyright © 2003 DETROIT DIESEL CORPORATION
ENGINE EXHAUST
Consider the following before servicing engines:

Please note this caution and remember:
□ Always start and operate the engine in a well ventilated area.
□ If in an enclosed area, vent the exhaust to the outside.
□ Do not modify or tamper with the exhaust system.For accurate dynamometer readings
during a engine run-in, the chassis dynamometer room must be properly ventilated.

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x 6SE379 0303 Copyright © 2003 DETROIT DIESEL CORPORATION
GENERAL INFORMATION
Section Page
SCOPE AND USE OF THIS MANUAL ....................................................... 3
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ........................................................................... 3
FLUOROELASTOMER (VITON) CAUTION ............................................... 11
SERVICE PARTS AVAILABILITY ................................................................ 12
CLEARANCE AND TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ...................................... 12
THE TWO CYCLE PRINCIPLE FOR DIESEL ENGINES ........................... 13
GENERAL DESCRIPTION ......................................................................... 14
DDEC DIAGNOSTIC READER CAUTION ................................................. 16
DDEC I ........................................................................................................ 17
DDEC II ....................................................................................................... 18
DDEC III ..................................................................................................... 18
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS .................................................................... 19
ENGINE MODEL, SERIAL NUMBER AND OPTION LABEL ..................... 22
REPAIR AND REPLACE ............................................................................ 25
DISASSEMBLY .......................................................................................... 26
CLEANING .................................................................................................. 26
INSPECTION ............................................................................................. 27
ASSEMBLY ................................................................................................. 28
FABRICATING, ALTERING, REMOVING AND DISPOSING OF
GASKETS ............................................................................................ 28
ENGLISH TO METRIC CONVERSION ...................................................... 29
DECIMAL AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS ................................................... 31

SPECIFICATIONS ...................................................................................... 31

2 6SE379 0303 Copyright © 2003 DETROIT DIESEL CORPORATION
SCOPE AND USE OF THIS MANUAL
This manual covers the basic V-92 diesel engines built by the Detroit Diesel Corporation.
Complete instructions on operation, adjustment (tune-up), preventive maintenance, and
lubrication and repair (including complete overhaul) are covered. Basic maintenance and overhaul
procedures are common to all V-92 engines and apply to all engine models.
The manual is divided into numbered sections. The first section covers the engine (less major
assemblies). The following sections cover a complete system such as the fuel system, lubrication
system or air system. Each section is divided into subsections containing complete maintenance
and operating instructions for a specific subassembly on the engine. Each section begins with a
table of contents. Pages and illustrations are numbered consecutively within each section.
Information can be located using the table of contents at the front of the manual or the table of
contents at the beginning of each section. Information on specific subassemblies within the major
section is listed immediately following the section title.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
The following safety measures are essential when working on the Series 92 engine.
Please note this caution and remember:
EXHAUST FUMES
To avoid injury or injury to bystanders from fumes, engine
or vehicle fuel system service operations should be
performed in a well ventilated area.
□ Always start and operate the engine in a well ventilated area.

□ If in an enclosed area, vent the exhaust outside.
□ Do not modify or tamper with the exhaust system.
Stands
Safety stands are required in conjunction with hydraulic jacks or hoists. Do not rely on either
the jack or the hoist to carry the load. When lifting an engine, ensure lifting device is fastened
securely. Ensure that the item to be lifted does not exceed the capacity of the lifting device.

6SE379 0303 Copyright © 2003 DETROIT DIESEL CORPORATION 3
BODILY INJURY
To avoid injury from a falling component, ensure a proper
lifting device is used. Never stand beneath a suspended
load.
Glasses
Select appropriate safety glasses for the job. It is especially important to wear safety glasses when
using tools such as hammers, chisels, pullers, or punches.
EYE INJURY
To avoid injury from flying debris, wear a face shield or
goggles.
Welding
Wear welding goggles and gloves when welding or using an acetylene torch. Ensure that a metal
shield separates the acetylene and oxygen that must be chained to a cart.

PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from arc welding, gas welding, or
cutting, wear required safety equipment such as an arc
welder’s face plate or gas welder’s goggles, welding
gloves, protective apron, long sleeve shirt, head
protection, and safety shoes. Always perform welding
or cutting operations in a well ventilated area. The gas
in oxygen/acetylene cylinders used in gas welding and
cutting is under high pressure. If a cylinder should fall
due to careless handling, the gage end could strike an
obstruction and fracture, resulting in a gas leak leading
to fire or an explosion. If a cylinder should fall resulting
in the gage end breaking off, the sudden release of
cylinder pressure will turn the cylinder into a dangerous
projectile. Observe the following precautions when using
oxygen/acetylene gas cylinders:
□ Always wear required safety shoes.
□ Do not handle tanks in a careless manner or with greasy
gloves or slippery hands.
□ Use a chain, bracket, or other restraining device at all
times to prevent gas cylinders from falling.
□ Do not place gas cylinders on their sides, but stand
them upright when in use.
□ Do not drop, drag, roll, or strike a cylinder forcefully.
□ Always close valves completely when finished welding
or cutting.
FIRE
To avoid injury from fire, keep all potential ignition sources
away from diesel fuel, including open flames, sparks, and
electrical resistance heating elements. Do not smoke when
refueling.
Work Place
Organize your work area, and keep it clean. A fall could result in a serious injury. Eliminate
the possibility of a fall by:

PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from slipping and falling, immediately clean
up any spilled liquids.
□ Wiping up oil spills.

□ Keeping tools and parts off the floor.
After servicing or adjusting the engine:
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from unguarded rotating and moving engine
components, check that all protective devices have been
reinstalled after working on the engine.
□ Install all safety devices, guards, or shields.

□ Ensure that all tools and service equipment are removed from the engine.
Clothing
Wear safe work clothes that fit and are in good condition. Work shoes are sturdy and rough-soled.
Bare feet, sandals, or sneakers are not acceptable foot wear when adjusting and/or servicing an
engine. Do not wear the following when working on an engine:
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury when working near or on an operating
engine equipped with electric fans, remove loose items
of clothing and jewelry. Tie back or contain long hair that
could be caught in any moving part causing injury. Electric
fans may start without warning.
□ Rings
□ Wrist watches
□ Loose fitting clothing
□ Any of these items could catch on moving parts causing serious injury.

Power Tools
Do not use defective portable power tools. Check for frayed cords prior to using the tool. Ensure
that all electric tools are grounded. Defective electrical equipment and improper use of electrical
equipment can cause severe injury.
ELECTRICAL SHOCK
To avoid injury from electrical shock, follow OEM furnished
operating instructions prior to usage.
Air
Recommendations regarding the use of compressed air are indicated throughout the manual
with the following:
EYE INJURY
To avoid injury from flying debris when using compressed
air, wear adequate eye protection (face shield or safety
goggles) and do not exceed 276 kPa (40 psi) air pressure.
Too much air can rupture or in some other way damage a component and create a hazardous
situation that can lead to personal injury. Use only approved air blow guns that do not exceed
276 kPa (40 lb/in.2). Wear safety glasses or goggles. Use proper shielding to protect everyone in
the work area.
Fluids and Pressure
Be extremely careful when dealing with fluids under pressure.
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from penetrating fluids, do not put your
hands in front of fluid under pressure. Fluids under
pressure can penetrate skin and clothing.
Fluids under pressure can penetrate the skin. These fluids can infect a minor cut or opening in
the skin. If injured, see a doctor immediately.

Fuel
Keep the hose and nozzle or the funnel and container in contact with the metal of the fuel tank
when refueling to avoid the possibility of an electric spark igniting the fuel.
The following cautions should be followed when filling a fuel tank:
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from fuel spills, do not overfill the fuel tank.
FIRE
refueling.
Batteries
Electrical storage batteries emit highly flammable hydrogen gas when charging and continue to
do so for some time after receiving a steady charge.
BATTERY EXPLOSION AND ACID BURN

To avoid injury from battery explosion or contact with
battery acid, work in a well ventilated area, wear protective
clothing, and avoid sparks or flames near the battery. If
you come in contact with battery acid:
□ Flush your skin with water.
□ Apply baking soda or lime to help neutralize the acid.
□ Flush your eyes with water.
□ Get medical attention immediately.
Always disconnect the battery cable before working on the electrical system.

PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from accidental engine startup while
servicing the engine, disconnect/disable the starting
system.
Disconnect the batteries or disable an air starter when working on the engine to prevent accidental
starting.
Fire
Keep a charged fire extinguisher within reach. Ensure the correct type of extinguisher is used
for the situation.
Cleaning Agent
Avoid the use of carbon tetrachloride as a cleaning agent because of the harmful vapors that it
releases. Ensure work area is adequately ventilated. Use protective gloves, goggles or face
shield, and apron.
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from harmful vapors or skin contact, do not
use carbon tetrachloride as a cleaning agent.
Working on a Running Engine
When working on a running engine, accidental contact with the hot exhaust manifold can cause
severe burns. Remain alert to the location of the rotating fan, pulleys and belts. Avoid making
contact across the two terminals of a battery which can result in severe arcing, or battery explosion.

PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from hot surfaces, wear protective gloves,
or allow engine to cool before removing any component.
ENGINE EXHAUST
To avoid injury from inhaling engine exhaust, always
operate the engine in a well-ventilated area. Engine
exhaust is toxic.
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury, use care when working around moving belts
and rotating parts on the engine.
Start Attempts
Observe the following caution when working with mineral spirits or mineral spirit-based solvents.

FIRE, EXPLOSION AND TOXICITY

To avoid injury from flames, explosion, and toxicants when
using ether, the following precautions must be taken:
□ Do not smoke when servicing ether system.
□ Work in well ventilated area.
□ Do not work near open flames, pilot flames (gas or oil
heaters), or sparks.
□ Do not weld or carry an open flame near the ether
system if you smell ether or otherwise suspect a leak.
□ Always wear goggles when testing.
□ If fluid enters the eyes or if fumes irritate the eyes, wash
eyes with large quantities of clean water for 15 minutes.
A physician, preferably an eye specialist, should be
contacted.
□ Contents of cylinder are under pressure. Store cylinders
in a cool dry area. Do not incinerate, puncture or
attempt to remove cores from cylinders.
Avoid excessive injection of ether into the engine during start attempts. Follow the instructions on
the container or by the manufacturer of the starting aid.
FLUOROELASTOMER (VITON) CAUTION
Observe the following caution when handling fluoroelastomer.
CHEMICAL BURNS
To avoid injury from chemical burns, wear a face
shield and neoprene or PVC gloves when handling
fluoroelastomer O-rings or seals that have been degraded
by excessive heat. Discard gloves after handling degraded
fluoroelastomer parts.
Under normal design conditions, fluoroelastomer (Viton®) parts, such as O-rings and seals,
are perfectly safe to handle. They may become hazardous, however, if these components are
subjected to temperatures above 316°C (600°F), such as during a cylinder failure or engine fire.
At temperatures above 316°C (600°F), fluoroelastomer will decompose (indicated by charring
or the appearance of a black, sticky mass) and produce hydrofluoric acid. This is extremely
corrosive and, if it contacts bare skin, it may cause severe burns, sometimes with symptoms
delayed for several hours.

SERVICE PARTS AVAILABILITY
Genuine Detroit Diesel service parts are available from authorized Detroit Diesel distributors and
service dealers throughout the world. A complete list of all distributors and dealers is available
in the World Wide Parts and Service Directory, 6SE280. This publication can be ordered from
any authorized distributor.
CLEARANCE AND TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for a listing of new part clearances and used
part wear limits. The appropriate use of information from the limits column requires service
personnel to exercise good judgment. The wear limits recorded, in general, apply only to those
parts most frequently replaced during engine overhaul. For additional information, refer to repair
or replace in this chapter.

THE TWO CYCLE PRINCIPLE FOR DIESEL ENGINES
In the two-cycle engine, intake and exhaust take place during part of the compression and power
strokes respectively. See Figure 1.
Figure 1 The Two-Stroke Cylinder Engine
Scavenging
A blower forces air into the cylinders to expel the exhaust gases and to supply the cylinders with
fresh air for combustion. The cylinder wall contains a row of ports which are above the piston
when it is at the bottom of its stroke. These ports admit air from the blower into the cylinder as
soon as the rim of the piston uncovers the ports.
The unidirectional air flow toward the exhaust valves produces a scavenging effect, leaving the
cylinders full of clean air when the piston again covers the inlet ports.

Compression
As the piston continues on the upward stroke, the exhaust valves close, and the charge of fresh air
is compressed.
Power
Shortly before the piston reaches its highest position, the unit fuel injector sprays the required
amount of fuel into the combustion chamber. The intense heat generated during the high air
compression immediately ignites the fine fuel spray. The combustion continues until the injected
fuel has been burned.
Exhaust
The resulting pressure forces the piston downward on its power stroke. The exhaust valves are
again opened when the piston is about half way down, allowing the burned gases to escape into
the exhaust manifold. Shortly thereafter, the downward moving piston uncovers the inlet ports
and the cylinder is once again swept with clean scavenging air. This entire combustion cycle is
completed in each cylinder for each crankshaft revolution, in other words, in two strokes. Hence,
it is a "two-stroke cycle".
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The two-cycle diesel engines covered in this manual are produced in 6, 8, 12, and 16 cylinder
models. Each model shares the same bore and stroke and many of the major working parts such
as injectors, pistons, connecting rods, cylinder liners and other interchangeable parts.

The engines are built with right-hand or left-hand crankshaft rotation. See Figure 2. The oil cooler
can be mounted only on the right side of the engine. On 6V and 8V engines the starter can be
mounted on either the right or left side of the engine, and the 12V and 16V engines have a starter
on both the right and left side of the engine.
Figure 2 Views From Rear of Engine
See Figure 2 for the meaning of each digit in the model numbering system. The letter L or R
indicates left or right-hand engine rotation as viewed from the front of the engine. The letter A, B,
C, or D designates the location of the starter and oil cooler as viewed from the rear of the engine.
Each engine is equipped with oil coolers, lubricating oil filters, fuel oil strainer, fuel oil filter, air
cleaners, governor, heat exchanger and raw water pump or fan and radiator, and starting motor.

Full pressure lubrication is supplied to all main, connecting rod and camshaft bearings, and to
other moving parts within the engine. A gear-type pump draws oil from the oil pan through an
intake screen, through the oil filter, and then to the oil cooler. From the oil cooler, the oil flows
through passages that connect with the oil galleries in the cylinder block and cylinder heads for
distribution to the bearings, rocker arm mechanism and other functional parts.
Coolant is circulated through the engine by a centrifugal-type water pump. Heat is removed
from the coolant, which circulates in a closed system, by the radiator or heat exchanger. Engine
temperature is controlled by thermostats that regulate the flow of the coolant within the cooling
system.
Fuel is drawn from the supply tank through the fuel filter by a gear-type fuel pump. It is then
forced through a filter and into the fuel inlet manifolds in the cylinder heads and to the injectors.
Excess fuel is returned to the supply tank through the fuel outlet manifolds and connecting lines.
Since the fuel is constantly circulating through the injectors, it serves to cool the injectors and also
carries off any air in the fuel system.
A blower that pumps air into the engine cylinders via the air box and cylinder liner ports supplies
air for scavenging and combustion. All air entering the blower passes through an air cleaner.
An electric starting system starts the engine. A storage battery energizes the electric starting
motor. A battery-charging generator, with a suitable voltage regulator or an alternator keeps
the battery charged.
Engine speed is regulated by a mechanical or hydraulic type engine governor, depending upon
the engine application.
DDEC DIAGNOSTIC READER CAUTION
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from loss of vehicle/vessel control, the
operator of a DDEC equipped engine must not use or read
any diagnostic tool while the vehicle/vessel is moving.
Diagnosis of the engine or electronics system of a DDEC-equipped vehicle, vessel, or wheeled

machine, must be done by someone other than the driver or operator. The operator must maintain
control of the moving vehicle, vessel, or wheeled machine while the assistant performs the
diagnosis.

DDEC I
DDEC I controls the timing and amount of fuel injected into each cylinder. The system also
monitors several engine functions using various sensors that send electrical signals to the main
Electronic Control Module (ECM). See Figure 3. The ECM uses this information to send a
command pulse to the Electronic Distributor Unit (EDU). The EDU functions as the high current
switching unit for actuation of the Electronic Unit Injector (EUI) solenoids. The ECM also has the
ability to limit or shut down the engine completely (depending on option selection) in the case of
damaging engine conditions, such as low oil pressure, low coolant level, or high oil temperature.
Figure 3 DECC I

DDEC II
DDEC II also controls the timing and amount of fuel injected into each cylinder. The system also
monitors several engine sensors that send electrical signals to the main ECM. See Figure 4.
Unlike DDEC I, the DDEC II ECM uses this information to actuate the EUI solenoids. DDEC II
incorporates all control electronics into one engine mounted ECM instead of the ECM and EDU
that are required in DDEC I. The ECM also has the ability to limit or shut down the engine
completely (depending on option selection) in the case of damaging engine conditions, such as
low oil pressure, low coolant level, or high oil temperature.
Figure 4 DECC II
DDEC III
The DDEC III ECM receives electronic inputs from sensors on the engine and vehicle and uses
the information to control engine operation. It computes fuel timing and fuel quantity based upon
predetermined calibration tables in its memory.

Fuel is delivered to the cylinders by the EUI solenoids, which are cam-driven to provide the
mechanical input for pressurization of the fuel. The ECM controls solenoid operated valves in the
EUIs to provide precise fuel delivery. See Figure 5.
Figure 5 DECC III
Portable equipment facilitates access to DDEC III's diagnostic capabilities. The Diagnostic Data
Reader (DDR) requests and receives engine data and diagnostic codes. This equipment provides
many unique capabilities including cylinder cutout, parameter vs. engine speed (or time), printer
output, and data snapshot. The DDR also provides limited programming capability.
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
The general specifications for the Series 92 Engine are listed in Table 1. See Figure 6 for the
cylinder designation and firing order.

Engine 2 Cycle 2 Cycle 2 Cycle 2 Cycle

Number of Cylinders 6 8 12 16
Bore (inches) 4.84 4.84 4.84 4.84
Bore (mm) 123 123 123 123
Stroke (inches) 5 5 5 5
Stroke (mm) 127 127 127 127
Comp. Ratio
(Nominal) 17 to 1 17 to 1 17 to 1 17 to 1
(Turbo. Engines)
Comp. Ratio
(N/A Engines)
Comp. Ratio
(High Output-DDEC)
Comp. Ratio
(Nominal) 18 to 1 18 to 1 - -
(Special-DDEC)
Total Displacement
552 736 1104 1472
- (cubic inches)
Total Displacement
9.05 12.07 18.10 24.14
- (liters)
Number of
4 5 7 10
Main Bearings
Table 1 General Specifications for the Series 92 Engine

Figure 6 V-92 Engine Cylinder Designation and Firing Order

ENGINE MODEL, SERIAL NUMBER AND OPTION LABEL
The engine serial number and model number are stamped on the cylinder block in the following
locations (as viewed from the flywheel end): the right side, upper front corner of current 6V and
8V cylinder blocks. See Figure 7.
Figure 7 Location of Engine Model Number and Serial Number

On former 6V and 8V blocks and current 12V and 16V blocks the engine serial number and
model number is stamped on the right side, upper rear corner. See Figure 8.
1. Serial Number 2. Model Number
Figure 8 Typical Engine Serial Number and Model Number as Stamped on

Cylinder Block

Option Plate (Metal Labels)
An option plate, attached to one of the valve rocker covers, carries the engine serial number and
model number and lists any optional equipment used on the engine. See Figure 9.
1. Rocker Cover 3. Option Plate

2. Hold Down Bolt 4. Smoke Emission Plate
Figure 9 Location of Option Plates
On-highway vehicle engines also carry an exhaust emission certification label next to the option
plate. It is separate from the option plate and is mounted permanently in the option plate retainer.
The current label includes information relating to an engine family for the maximum fuel injector
size and maximum speed. Due to Federal regulations, the exhaust emission plate should not
be removed from the rocker cover. Refer to section 12.1.3 for further information regarding
emission regulations.
With any order for parts, the engine model number and serial number must be given. If a type
number is shown on the option plate covering the equipment required, it should be included on
the parts order.
All parts used on a unit are standard for the engine model unless otherwise listed on the option
plate.
Power takeoff assemblies, torque converters, marine gears, etc., may also carry name plates. The
information on these name plates is useful when ordering replacement parts for these assemblies.

Option Plate (Paper Labels)
A new paper/laminate engine option label has replaced the metal option plate. In conjunction with
the new option label, the following paper/laminate labels are also being used: bar code labels
for engine serial number and customer specification number, emissions label (when applicable)
and disclaimer label.
Distributors will provide their own label(s) in order to notify the customer of any distributor-made
changes to Detroit Diesel-manufactured engines. Distributor-typed label(s) will indicate the
distributor name, address and the group/type revisions that reflect their changes to engines as
originally manufactured by Detroit Diesel.
NOTICE:
Extreme heat from components such as turbocharger exhaust
piping can cause the labels to darken, discolor or deteriorate
over a period of time. Therefore, labels should be installed at
alternate rocker cover locations.
Labels must be placed on rocker covers. Labels are designed to fit in the same space provided
for the former stamped or current cast rocker cover option plate holder. Replacement option
labels can be placed directly over existing option labels. Ensure labels are applied to clean,
dry, oil-free surfaces to ensure adhesion and retention. Laminate should completely cover the
label to provide a good seal.
The option plate holder on cast covers is held to the cover by rivets in blind holes. Therefore,
the option plate holder can be removed and the labels applied directly to the rocker covers. The
option plate holder on stamped rocker covers is retained by spot welding. This option plate holder
should not be removed, since it can leave open holes that will allow lube oil to leak.
REPAIR AND REPLACE
In many cases, a service technician is justified in replacing parts with new material rather than
attempting repair. However, there are times when a slight amount of reworking or reconditioning
may save a customer added expense. Crankshafts, cylinder liners and other parts are in this
category. For example, if a cylinder liner is only slightly worn and within usable limits, a honing
operation to remove the glaze may make it suitable for reuse, thereby saving the expense of a
new part. Exchange assemblies, such as injectors, fuel pumps, water pumps and blowers, are
also desirable service items.
Various factors, such as the type of engine operation, hours in service and next overhaul
period, must be considered when determining whether new parts are installed or used parts are
reconditioned to provide trouble-free operation.
For convenience and logical order in disassembly and assembly, the various subassemblies and
other related parts mounted on the cylinder block will be treated as separate items in the various
sections of this manual.

DISASSEMBLY
Before any major disassembly, the engine must be drained of lubricating oil, water and fuel. On
engines cooled by a heat exchanger, the fresh water system and raw water system must both be
drained. Lubricating oil should also be drained from any transmission attached to the engine.
PERSONAL INJURY
system.
To perform a major overhaul or other extensive repairs, the complete engine assembly, after
removal from the engine base and drive mechanism, should be mounted on an engine overhaul
stand. The various subassemblies should be removed from the engine. When only a few items
need replacement, it is not always necessary to mount the engine on an overhaul stand.
Parts removed from an individual engine should be kept together so they will be available for
inspection and assembly. Those items having machined faces, which might be easily damaged by
steel or concrete, should be stored on suitable wooden racks, blocks, or parts dollies.
CLEANING
Before removing any of the subassemblies from the engine (but after removal of the electrical
equipment), the exterior of the engine should be thoroughly cleaned. After each subassembly is
removed and disassembled, the individual parts should be cleaned. Thorough cleaning of each
part is necessary before it can be satisfactorily inspected.
The cleaning procedure used for all ordinary cast iron parts is outlined under Clean Cylinder
Block. Refer to section 1.1. Any special cleaning procedures will be mentioned in the text,
wherever required.
Steam Cleaning
A steam cleaner is a necessary item in a large shop and is useful for removing heavy accumulations
of grease and dirt from the exterior of the engine and its subassemblies.
Tank Cleaning
A tank of sufficient size to accommodate the largest part requiring cleaning (usually the cylinder
block) should be provided and provisions made for heating the cleaning solution to 82-90°C
(180-200°F).

NOTICE:
The Series 92 engine is equipped with various sensors and
other electronic components that may be damaged if subjected
to the high temperatures in a solvent tank. Do NOT immerse
any electrical components in a solvent tank. Care should be
taken to ensure that all electronic components are removed
from the various engine assemblies before they are immersed
in a solvent tank.
Fill the tank with a commercial heavy-duty alkaline cleaner heated to 82-90°C (180-200°F).
Lower large parts directly into the tank with a hoist. Place small parts in a wire mesh basket, and
lower them into the tank. Immerse the parts long enough to loosen all grease and dirt.
Rinsing Bath
Provide another tank of similar size containing hot water for rinsing the parts.
Drying
Parts may be dried with compressed air. The heat from the hot tanks will frequently completely
dry the parts without using compressed air.
Rust Preventive
If parts are not to be used immediately after cleaning, dip them in a suitable rust preventive
compound. The rust preventive compound should be removed before installing the parts in
the engine.
INSPECTION
Parts inspection is used to determine whether parts should be reused or replaced. Although the
engine overhaul specifications given throughout this manual will help determine which parts
should be replaced, considerable judgment must be exercised by the inspector.
The factors determining whether worn parts (in good condition otherwise) may be reused are the
clearance between the mating parts and the wear rate on each of the parts. If the current wear
rate will maintain clearances within the specified maximum limit until the next engine overhaul,
the used parts may be reinstalled. Wear rate is determined by dividing the wear amount by the
hours operated.
Many service replacement parts are available in various undersize, oversize, or standard sizes.
Service kits for reconditioning certain parts, and service sets, which include all parts necessary to
complete a particular repair job, are also available.
A thorough discussion of proper measurement and inspection procedures lies outside the scope
of this manual. Nonetheless, every shop should be equipped with standard gages, such as dial
bore gages, dial indicators, and inside and outside micrometers.

In addition to measuring the used parts after cleaning, the parts should also be inspected for
cracks, scoring, chipping, and other defects.
ASSEMBLY
After cleaning and inspection, the engine should be reassembled using new parts when necessary.
Using proper equipment and tools makes the job progress faster and produces better results.
Likewise, a suitable working space with adequate lighting must be provided.
Keep the working space, equipment, tools, engine assemblies, and parts clean at all times. If
possible, the assembly area should be located away from the disassembly and cleaning areas.
After removal and cleaning, store parts and subassemblies where they will be kept clean. If there
is any question about the cleanliness of such parts, they should be recleaned.
During assembly, consult the "Torque Specification Table" at the end of each section for proper
bolt, nut, and stud torques.
To ensure a clean engine at time of rebuild, any plug, fitting or fastener (including studs) that
intersects with a through hole and contacts oil, fuel or coolant must have a sealer applied to
the threads.
Many universal sealers are commercially available. Detroit Diesel Corporation recommends
that Loctite® 567 pipe sealer with Teflon®, or equivalent, be used in some instances. Certain
plugs, fittings and fasteners available from the Parts Distribution Center already have a sealer
applied to the threads. This precoating will not be adversely affected when pipe sealer with
Teflon is also applied.
NOTE:
Loctite 567 must not be confused with International Compound No. 2, which is used as a
lubricant before tightening certain bolts. Use International Compound No. 2 only when
the manual specifically instructs.
FABRICATING, ALTERING, REMOVING AND DISPOSING OF GASKETS
Many gasket materials contain bonded asbestos. Asbestos, in itself, presents no health hazard
when handled properly. A health hazard may exist, however, if the asbestos becomes airborne.
This may occur if gaskets are fabricated or altered using the following methods: drilling, grinding,
saw cutting, or using practically all types of power operated machines and hand tools.
Gasket manufacturers and industrial hygienists prescribe specific methods for handling gasket
material. The following guidelines are based on their recommendations. Detroit Diesel
recommends that these guidelines be followed when fabricating or altering any gasket:
1. Unless it is known otherwise, treat all gasket material as though it contains asbestos.
2. When cutting strips or blocks from sheets (blanking), hand cut with scissors, knife, or
paper cutter. Avoid creating dust.
3. Form outside dimensions with a punch die, or hand cut with scissors, knife or compass.
4. For internal hubs, use a punch die, hand cut with scissors, knife or compass, or punch by
hand with a ball-peen hammer or ball bearing.

5. When stripping gaskets from parts, do not grind or file off the material or abrade it off
with a wire brush or wheel. Use a putty knife to remove the gasket after it has been
wetted with water or oil.
6. After fabricating or altering a gasket, clean the area to remove any particles that may have
been generated. This should be done by wiping the area with a rag wetted with water or a
water-based detergent. If large areas need to be cleaned, remove gasket dust and debris
using an "HEPA" (High Efficiency Particulate Arrestor) vacuum cleaner. Do not clean the
area by blowing with compressed air or brushing.
Place the rags containing the waste and any scrap gasket material in an impervious container
labeled with the OSHA (Occupational Health and Safety Administration) designated caution, and
dispose of it in a solid waste disposal facility (land fill) that will accept asbestos material. Heavy
plastic garbage bags (6 mils thick), each sealed separately, or other closed and impermeable
container may be used.
ENGLISH TO METRIC CONVERSION
Listed in Table 2 are the English to metric conversions.
Multiply Length By To get equivalent number of:

Inch (in.) 25.4 Millimeters (mm)
Foot (ft) 0.3048 Meters (m)
Yard (yd) 0.9144 Meters (m)
Mile (mile) 1.609 Kilometers (km)
Multiply Area By To get equivalent number of:
Inch2(in.2) 6452 Millimeters2(mm2)
Inch2(in.2) 6.45 Centimeters2(cm2)
Foot2(ft2) 0.0929 Meters2(m2)
Yard2(yd2) 0.8361 Meters2(m2)
Multiply Volume By To get equivalent number of:
3 3
Inch (in. ) 16387 Millimeters3(mm3)
Inch3(in.3) 16.387 Centimeters3(cm3)
Inch3(in.3) 0.0164 Liters (L)
Quart (qt) 0.9464 Liters (L)
Gallon (gal) 3.785 Liters (L)
3 3
Yard (yd ) 0.7646 Meters3(m3)
Multiply Mass By To get equivalent number of:
Pound (lb) 0.4536 Kilograms (kg)
Ton (ton) 907.18 Kilograms (kg)
Ton (ton) 0.907 Tonne (t)
Multiply Force By To get equivalent number of:
Kilogram (kg) 9.807 Newtons (N)
Ounce (oz) 0.2780 Newtons (N)
Pound (lb) 4.448 Newtons (N)

Multiply Temperature By To get equivalent number of:

Degree Fahrenheit (°F) (°F-32) ÷ 1.8 Degree Celsius °C)
Multiply Acceleration By To get equivalent number of:
2 2
Foot/second (ft/sec ) 0.3048 Meter/second2(m/s2)
Inch/second2(in./sec2) 0.0254 Meter/second2 (m/s2)
Multiply Torque By To get equivalent number of:
Pound-inch (lb·in.) 0.11298 Newton-meters (N·m)
Pound-foot (lb·ft) 1.3558 Newton-meters (N·m)
Multiply Power By To get equivalent number of:
Horsepower (hp) 0.746 Kilowatts (kW)
Multiply Pressure or Stress By To get equivalent number of:
Inches of water (in. H 2
O) 0.2491 Kilopascals (kPa)
2
Pounds/square in. (lb/in. ) 6.895 Kilopascals (kPa)
Multiply Energy or Work By To get equivalent number of:
British Thermal Unit (Btu) 1055 Joules (J)
Foot-pound (ft·lb) 1.3558 Joules (J)
3,600,000. or
kilowatt-hour (kW·hr) Joules (J = one W/s)
3.6 x 106
Multiply Light By To get equivalent number of:
Foot candle (fc) 1.0764 Lumens/meter2(lm/m2)
Multiply Fuel Performance By To get equivalent number of:
Miles/gal (mile/gal) 0.4251 Kilometers/liter (km/L)
Gallons/mile (gal/mile) 2.3527 Liter/kilometer (L/km)
Multiply Velocity By To get equivalent number of:
Miles/hour (mile/hr) 1.6093 Kilometers/hour (km/hr)
Table 2 English to Metric Conversion Table

DECIMAL AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS
Listed in Table 3 are the decimal to metric equivalents.
Fractions of Fractions of
Decimal (in.) Metric (mm) Decimal (in.) Metric (mm)
an inch an inch
1/64 0.015625 0.39688 33/64 0.515625 13.09687
1/32 0.03125 0.79375 17/32 0.53125 13.49375
3/64 0.046875 1.19062 35/64 0.546875 13.89062
1/16 0.0625 1.58750 9/16 0.5625 14.28750
5/64 0.078125 1.98437 37/64 0.578125 14.68437
3/32 0.09375 2.38125 19/32 0.59375 15.08125
7/64 0.109375 2.77812 39/64 0.609375 15.47812
1/8 0.125 3.175 5/8 0.625 15.87500
9/64 0.140625 3.57187 41/64 0.640625 16.27187
5/32 0.15625 3.96875 21/32 0.65625 16.66875
11/64 0.171875 4.36562 43/64 0.671875 17.06562
3/16 0.1875 4.76250 11/16 0.6875 17.46250
13/64 0.203125 5.15937 45/64 0.703125 17.85937
7/32 0.21875 5.55625 23/32 0.71875 18.25625
15/64 0.234375 5.95312 47/64 0.734375 18.65312
1/4 0.250 6.35000 3/4 0.750 19.05000
17/64 0.265625 6.74687 49/64 0.765625 19.44687
9/32 0.28125 7.14375 25/32 0.78125 19.84375
19/64 0.296875 7.54062 51/64 0.796875 20.24062
5/16 0.3125 7.93750 13/16 0.8125 20.63750
21/64 0.328125 8.33437 53/64 0.828125 21.03437
11/32 0.34375 8.73125 27/32 0.84375 21.43125
23/64 0.359375 9.12812 55/64 0.859375 21.82812
3/8 0.375 9.52500 7/8 0.875 22.22500
25/64 0.390625 9.92187 57/64 0.890625 22.62187
13/32 0.40625 10.31875 29/32 0.90625 23.01875
27/64 0.421875 10.71562 59/64 0.921875 23.41562
7/16 0.4375 11.11250 15/16 0.9375 23.81250
29/64 0.453125 11.50937 61/64 0.953125 24.20937
15/32 0.46875 11.90625 31/32 0.96875 24.60625
31/64 0.484375 12.30312 63/64 0.984375 25.00312
1/2 0.500 12.70000 1 1.00 25.40000
Table 3 Conversion Chart - Customary and Metric Units
SPECIFICATIONS
This section contains fastener torque specifications and pipe plug torque specifications.

Torque Specifications - Fasteners
The proper bolt and nut torque is dependent on its size. Standard (customary) nut and bolt
torque specifications are listed in Table 4. The proper torque specifications for metric nuts and
bolts are listed in Table 5.
Nut and Bolt Size, in. 260M or Better Torque 280M or Better Torque
10-24 5-7 N·m (4-5 lb·ft) -
1/4 in.-20 7-9 N·m (5-7 lb·ft) 10-12 N·m (7-9 lb·ft)
1/4 in.-28 8-11 N·m (6-8 lb·ft) 11-14 N·m (8-10 lb·ft)
5/16 in.-18 14-18 N·m (10-13 lb·ft) 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft)
5/16 in.-24 15-19 N·m (11-14 lb·ft) 20-26 N·m (15-19 lb·ft)
3/8 in.-16 31-35 N·m (23-26 lb·ft) 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft)
3/8 in.-24 35-40 N·m (26-29 lb·ft) 47-53 N·m (35-39 lb·ft)
7/16 in.-14 47-51 N·m (35-38 lb·ft) 62-68 N·m (46-50 lb·ft)
7/16 in.-20 58-62 N·m (43-46 lb·ft) 77-83 N·m (57-61 lb·ft)
1/2 in.-13 72-76 N·m (53-56 lb·ft) 96-102 N·m (71-75 lb·ft)
1/2 in.-20 84-95 N·m (62-70 lb·ft) 112-126 N·m (83-93 lb·ft)
9/16 in.-12 92-102 N·m (68-75 lb·ft) 122-136 N·m (90-100 lb·ft)
9/16 in.-18 109-119 N·m (80-88 lb·ft) 145-159 N·m (107-117 lb·ft)
5/8 in.-11 140-149 N·m (103-110 lb·ft) 186-199 N·m (137-147 lb·ft)
5/8 in.-18 171-181 N·m (126-134 lb·ft) 228-241 N·m (168-178 lb·ft)
3/4 in.-10 244-254 N·m (180-188 lb·ft) 325-339 N·m (240-250 lb·ft)
3/4 in.-16 295-305 N·m (218-225 lb·ft) 393-407 N·m (290-300 lb·ft)
7/8 in.-9 417-427 N·m (308-315 lb·ft) 556-569 N·m (410-420 lb·ft)
7/8 in.-14 483-494 N·m (356-364 lb·ft) 644-657 N·m (475-485 lb·ft)
1 in.-8 590-600 N·m (435-443 lb·ft) 789-799 N·m (580-590 lb·ft)
1 in.-14 697-705 N·m (514-521 lb·ft) 928-942 N·m (685-695 lb·ft)
Table 4 Standard (Customary) Fastener Torque Specifications
Nut and Bolt Size Property Class 10.0 Torque Property Class 10.0 Torque
M6 X 1.0 mm 13-16 N·m 10-12 lb·ft
M8 X 1.25 mm 30-38 N·m 22-28 lb·ft
M10 X 1.5 mm 58-73 N·m 43-54 lb·ft
M12 X 1.75 mm 101-126 N·m 75-93 lb·ft
M14 X 2.0 mm 160-200 N·m 118-148 lb·ft
M16 X 2.0 mm 245-306 N·m 181-226 lb·ft
M20 X 2.5 mm 478-598 N·m 353-441 lb·ft
Table 5 Class 10.9 Torque Specifications for Metric Fasteners

Torque Specification - Pipe Plugs
Standard pipe plug torque specifications supporting the Series 92 engine are listed in Table 6.
Thread Size, NPTF* Torque Specifications Torque Specifications

1/8 in. 14-16 N·m 10-12 lb·ft
1/4 in. 19-22 N·m 14-16 lb·ft
3/8 in. 24-30 N·m 18-22 lb·ft
1/2 in. 31-37 N·m 23-27 lb·ft
3/4 in. 45-50 N·m 33-37 lb·ft
1 in. 102-115 N·m 75-85 lb·ft
1-1/4 in. 129-143 N·m 95-105 lb·ft
1-1/2 in. 150-177 N·m 110-130 lb·ft
* Use sealant such as Pipe Plug Sealant with Teflon, PT Loctite 567 or equivalent on all uncoated pipe plugs.
Table 6 Standard Pipe Plug Torque Specifications
Stud torque specifications are listed in Table 7.
Application Torque Specifications Torque Specifications

Exhaust Manifold Stud 34-54 N·m 25-40 lb·ft
Water Manifold Cover Stud 14-34 N·m 10-25 lb·ft
Table 7 Stud Torque Specifications


1 ENGINE
Section Page
1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK ................................................................................. 1-3

1.2 CYLINDER BLOCK END PLATES ........................................................... 1-38
1.3 CYLINDER HEAD ................................................................................... 1-47
1.4 VALVE AND INJECTOR OPERATING MECHANISM .............................. 1-74
1.5 EXHAUST VALVES ................................................................................. 1-102
1.6 VALVE ROCKER COVERS ...................................................................... 1-126
1.7 CRANKSHAFT ........................................................................................ 1-133
1.8 CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALS (FRONT AND REAR) .................................. 1-165
1.9 CRANKSHAFT CAP ................................................................................ 1-175
1.10 CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SHELLS ............................................... 1-178
1.11 ENGINE FRONT COVER ........................................................................ 1-195
1.12 CRANKSHAFT OUTBOARD BEARING SUPPORT (TRUNNION) .......... 1-201
1.13 CRANKSHAFT REAR OUTBOARD BEARING SUPPORT ..................... 1-209
1.14 CRANKSHAFT VIBRATION DAMPER .................................................... 1-222
1.15 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY .......................................................................... 1-236
1.16 FLYWHEEL ............................................................................................. 1-241
1.17 CLUTCH PILOT BEARING ...................................................................... 1-249
1.18 ENGINE DRIVE SHAFT FLEXIBLE COUPLING ..................................... 1-254
1.19 FLYWHEEL HOUSING ............................................................................ 1-262
1.20 PISTON AND PISTON RINGS ................................................................. 1-283
1.21 CONNECTING ROD ................................................................................ 1-307
1.22 CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS ............................................................ 1-326
1.23 CYLINDER LINER .................................................................................. 1-334
1.24 ENGINE BALANCE AND BALANCE WEIGHTS ..................................... 1-348
1.25 GEAR TRAIN AND ENGINE TIMING ...................................................... 1-349
1.26 CAMSHAFTS AND BEARINGS ............................................................... 1-357
1.27 CAMSHAFT GEARS ............................................................................... 1-385
1.28 IDLER GEAR AND BEARING ASSEMBLY .............................................. 1-393
1.29 CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR ................................................................ 1-416
1.30 BLOWER DRIVE GEAR AND SUPPORT ASSEMBLY ........................... 1-427
1.31 ACCESSORY DRIVE ............................................................................... 1-444
1.32 BALANCE WEIGHT COVER ................................................................... 1-467

1-2 6SE379 0303 Copyright © 2003 DETROIT DIESEL CORPORATION
1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
The cylinder block is the engine's main structure. See Figure 1-1. Transverse webs provide
rigidity and strength and ensure the block bore and bearings align under load.
1. Cylinder Block 3. Cylinder Liner

2. Seal Rings
Figure 1-1 Cylinder Block (8V-92 Engine)
The cylinder block is a wet type above the cylinder liner ports and a dry type below the cylinder
liner ports. Two seal rings, compressed between the cylinder liner and the block grooves, seal
the water jacket and air box.

6SE379 0303 Copyright © 2003 DETROIT DIESEL CORPORATION 1-3
1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
An air box conducts the air from the blower to the cylinders. Air box openings on each side
of the block permit piston and compression ring inspection through the air inlet ports in the
cylinder liners. The air box openings in the cylinder block assembly are approximately 1 7/8 in.
x 3 1/8 in. and are shielded with cast covers. For additional information on the air box drains,
Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
The camshaft bores are on the inner side of each cylinder bank near the top of the block.
The upper halves of the main bearing supports are integrally cast with the block. See Figure
1-2. The main bearing bores are line-bored with the bearing caps intact to ensure longitudinal
alignment. Drilled passages in the block carry the lubricating oil to all moving engine parts,
eliminating the need for external piping.
1. Location of Drilled Oil Passages
Figure 1-2 Location of Drilled Oil Passages
The top surface of each cylinder bank is grooved to accommodate a block-to-head oil seal ring.
All counterbored oil and water holes in the cylinder block use the same size seal rings.
A flange at the upper end of the cylinder liner retains each liner in the block. The liner flange rests
on an insert located in the block bore counterbore.
An individual compression gasket is used at each cylinder. When the cylinder heads are installed,
the compression gaskets form a tight seal between the heads and the cylinder block.
1.1.1 Repair or Replacement of Cylinder Block
To determine if repair is possible or replacement is necessary, perform the following procedure.

See Figure 1-3.

Figure 1-3 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Cylinder Block

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
1.1.2 Removal of Cylinder Block
The hydraulically operated overhaul stand provides a convenient support when stripping a
cylinder block. See Figure 1-4. Once the engine is mounted in an upright position, it may be
turned on its side, rotated in either a 90 degree or 180 degree direction, locked in place, and
turned back to either end or the oil pan side up.
1. Engine Overhaul Stand
Figure 1-4 Hydraulic Engine Overhaul Stand
NOTE:
Before mounting an engine on an overhaul stand, it must be removed from its base and
disconnected from the transmission or other driven mechanism.
Details of this procedure will vary from one application to another. However, the following
steps are necessary when removing the engine:

PERSONAL INJURY
system.
1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.3.

2. Drain the lubricating oil. Refer to section 13.5.2.
3. Disconnect the fuel lines. Refer to section 2.21.2.
4. Remove the air cleaner and mounting brackets. Refer to section 6.2.
5. Remove the turbocharger. Refer to section 6.6.2.
6. Disconnect the exhaust piping, and remove the exhaust manifolds. Refer to section 7.2.2.
7. Disconnect the throttle controls. Refer to section 12.17.
8. Disconnect and remove the starting motor. Refer to section 8.2.2.
9. Disconnect and remove battery-charging alternator. 8.1.2.
10. Remove the air compressor, if used. Refer to section 10.1.
11. Remove the radiator. Refer to section 4.6.2.
12. Remove the fan guard. Refer to section 4.6.2.
13. Remove the air box drain tubes and fittings. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
14. Remove the air box covers. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
NOTE:
Early Series 92 vehicle engines built without the air box drain check valve and engines
built with drain tubes routed to the crankcase via the dipstick adaptor should be
updated with the current open air box drain system. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION for inspection of the air box drains.
15. Disconnect any other lubricating oil lines, fuel lines, or electrical connections.
16. Separate the engine from the transmission or other driven mechanism.
17. Remove the engine mounting bolts.

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
FALLING ENGINE
To avoid injury from a falling engine, an adequate lifting
device with a spreader bar and sling should be used to lift
the engine. The sling and spreader bar should be adjusted
so the lifting hooks are vertical to prevent bending the lifter
brackets. To ensure proper weight distribution, all provided
lifter brackets must be used.

18. Use a spreader bar with a suitable sling and adequate chain hoist to lift the engine from
its base. See Figure 1-5.
1. Rear Engine Lifter Brackets 4. Spreader Bars

2. Lifting Sling (2) 5. Front Engine Lifter Bracket
3. Chain Hoist
Figure 1-5 Spreader Bar with Sling and Chain

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
FALLING ENGINE
To avoid injury from a falling engine, do not use a damaged
lifter bracket when lifting the engine.
NOTICE:
Detroit Diesel recommends replacing the former welded
brackets with the current hot stamped brackets whenever
bracket removal is required. Failure to follow these
recommendations may lead to component damage.
NOTE:
Front support brackets on 8V-92 engines are now hot-stamped to final form in one
step, eliminating the welding operation formerly required at the bottom outside corner
of the brackets. See Figure 1-6. Former and current design brackets are completely
interchangeable, and only the current design will be serviced. Because of the improved
engine support that results from this change, Detroit Diesel recommends replacing
the former welded brackets with the current hot-stamped brackets whenever bracket
removal is required.
Figure 1-6 Engine Front Support Bracket

FALLING ENGINE
To avoid injury from a falling engine, ensure the engine
is securely attached to the engine overhaul stand before
releasing the lifting sling.
19. Mount the engine securely to the overhaul stand using grade 8 bolts.
NOTE:
For 6V and 8V engines, use overhaul stand J 29109 with adaptor J 33850. For 12V and
16V engines, use overhaul stand J 9389-04 and adaptor J 8650.
20. With the engine mounted on an overhaul stand, remove all of the remaining subassemblies
and parts from the cylinder block.
NOTE:
A water inlet adaptor plug and gasket replaces the rear (flywheel housing end) core hole
plug in the cylinder block air box floor on engines with an aftercooler. Refer to section 6.8.
21. Refer to section 1.1.3 for disassembly of the cylinder block.
1.1.3 Disassembly of Cylinder Block (12V and 16V Engines)
Disassemble 12V and 16V cylinder blocks as follows:

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
1. Remove the two "B" bolts and special washers from the oil drain back cavity. See Figure
1-7.
1. Spacer 3. Washer
2. Liner Bore ID
Figure 1-7 Separation of Cylinder Blocks

FALLING ENGINE
2. Attach a suitable lifting bracket to the end of the front cylinder block with two 1/2 in.-13
X 2 in. bolts and two 3/8 in.-16 X 2 in. bolts. See Figure 1-8.
1. Bolts 3. Cylinder Block

2. Cylinder Block Lifting Brackets
Figure 1-8 Cylinder Block Lifting Bracket

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
FALLING ENGINE
3. Attach a chain hoist to the lifting bracket. Lift the cylinder blocks into a vertical position,
and rest the end of the rear cylinder block on a clean, flat surface.
4. Remove the seven remaining bolts A, C, D, and E securing the two cylinder blocks
together. See Figure 1-7.
5. Remove the two spacers used on the two "D" bolts. See Figure 1-7.

6. Lift the front cylinder block off the rear cylinder block, and remove the seal strip from the
groove in the rear block.
NOTE:
On aftercooled engines, it will be necessary to remove the 2 1/2 in. plug in the rear core
hole in the bottom of the air box and the 2 1/4 in. plug in the top deck of the block in front
of the blower mounting pad. See Figure 1-9.
1. Rear Water Inlet Adaptor Plug 2 1/2 in. 2. Front Water Inlet Adaptor Plug 2 1/4 in.
Figure 1-9 Location of Front and Rear Air Box Cup Plugs
7. Refer to section 1.1.4 for cleaning of the cylinder block.
1.1.4 Cleaning of Cylinder Block
Prior to inspection, thoroughly clean the cylinder block as follows:

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
1. Scrape all gasket material from the cylinder block.

2. Remove all oil gallery plugs and core hole plugs (except the cup plugs) to allow the
cleaning solution to contact the inside of the oil and water passages.
NOTE:
If a core hole plug is difficult to remove, hold a 3/4 in. drift against the plug. Give it a
few sharp blows with a one pound hammer. With a 1/2 in. flexible handle and a short
extension placed in the plug countersink hole, turn the plug slightly to tighten. Turn it in
the opposite direction, and back the plug out.
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from improper use of chemicals, follow the
chemical manufacturer’s usage, handling, and disposal
instructions. Observe all manufacturer’s cautions.
3. Agitate the cylinder block in a hot bath of commercial heavy-duty alkaline cleaner
solution to remove grease.
PERSONAL INJURY
4. Rinse the block in hot water, or steam clean it to remove the alkaline cleaner solution.
5. If the water jackets are heavily scaled, proceed as follows:
[a] Agitate the block in a bath of inhibited phosphoric acid.
[b] Allow the block to remain in the acid bath until the bubbling stops (approximately
30 minutes).
[c] Lift the block, drain it, and immerse it in the same acid solution for 10 minutes.
[d] Repeat step 5[c] until all scale is removed.
[e] Rinse the block in clean hot water to remove the acid solution.

PERSONAL INJURY
[f] Immerse the block in an alkaline bath to neutralize any acid remaining on the casting.
[g] Wash the block in clean water, or steam clean it.
EYE INJURY
6. Dry the cylinder block with compressed air.

7. Thoroughly clean all water passages, oil galleries, and air box drain openings.
USED ENGINE OIL

To avoid injury to skin from contact with the contaminants
in used engine oil, wear protective gloves and apron.
8. Coat the air box core plug threads and the gaskets with clean engine oil.
9. Clean the cup plug holes, and apply Loctite 567 pipe sealant with Teflon, or equivalent, to
the outer diameter of the plugs.
10. Refer to section 1.1.4.3 for inspection of cylinder block.
1.1.4.1 Pressure Test Cylinder Block (Immersion Method)
Use this method when a large water tank is available and the cylinder block is completely
stripped of all parts.
1. Make a steel plate of 1/2 in. stock to cover each cylinder bank of the block. The plates will
adequately seal the top surface of the block when used with new cylinder line compression
gaskets and water hole seal rings.
2. Use water hole cover plates and gaskets to seal the water openings in the sides of the
block. One cover plate should be drilled and tapped to provide a connection for an air line
to pressurize the water jackets.

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
3. The seal ring grooves in the cylinder bores must be clean. Install new seal rings in the
grooves above the air inlet ports.
USED ENGINE OIL

4. Apply clean engine oil to the seal rings.
NOTICE:
Install the inner inserts with care to prevent the seal rings from
being rolled or damaged.
5. Place liner inserts in the cylinder block counterbores. Slide the cylinder liners into the
block.
6. Install new compression gaskets and water hole seal rings in the block counterbores.
7. Secure the plates to the block with 11/16 in.-11 bolts and flat washers. Tighten the bolts to
330-352 N·m (250-260 lb·ft) torque.
8. Bolt steel plates and suitable rubber gaskets to the water inlet and outlet holes, making
them airtight.
9. Drill and tap one cover plate to provide a connection for an air line.
10. Seal the aftercooler water inlet adaptor plug in the air box floor.
11. Immerse the block for 20 minutes in a tank of water heated to 82°-93°C (180°-200°F).
EYE INJURY
12. Apply 276 kPa (40 lb/in.2) air pressure to the water jackets.
13. Visually inspect for bubbles indicating cracks in the block.
[a] If cracks are detected, replace the block. Refer to section 1.1.6 and refer to section
1.1.7.
[b] If no cracks are detected, proceed with inspection.
14. After completing the pressure test, remove the block from the water tank.

EYE INJURY
15. Remove the plates, gaskets, liners, and inserts. Blow out all passages in the block with
compressed air.
EYE INJURY
16. Dry the cylinder liners and inserts with compressed air, and coat them with oil to prevent
rust.
17. Refer to section 1.1.5 for assembly procedure.
1.1.4.2 Pressure Test Cylinder Block (Leak-Marker)
Use this method when a large water tank is unavailable or when the block is not completely
stripped.
The following must be removed before performing this test:
□ Cylinder heads, refer to section 1.3.
□ Blower, refer to section 6.5.
□ Oil cooler, refer to section 3.7.
□ Air box covers, refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
□ Oil pan, refer to section 3.11.
Perform the following to pressure test:
1. Make a steel plate of 1/2 in. stock to cover each cylinder bank of the block. The plates will
adequately seal the top surface of the block when used with new cylinder line compression
gaskets and water hole seal rings.
2. Use water hole cover plates and gaskets to seal the water openings in the sides of the
block. One cover plate should be drilled and tapped to provide a connection for an air line
to pressurize the water jackets.

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
NOTICE:
Do not use methoxypropanol- based antifreeze. It will destroy
the water seals.
PERSONAL INJURY
3. Before attaching the last sealing plate, fill the water jacket with a mixture of water and one
gallon ethylene glycol based antifreeze. The antifreeze will penetrate small cracks, and its
color will mark their presence.
4. Install the remaining sealing plate, and tighten securely.
EYE INJURY
5. Apply 276 kPa (40 lb/in.2) air pressure to the water jacket. Maintain this pressure for
at least two hours to give the water and antifreeze mixture ample time to work its way
through any cracks.
6. Visually inspect cylinder bores, air box, oil passages, crankcase, and block exterior.
[a] If the water and antifreeze mixture is visible, the block is cracked and must be
replaced. Refer to section 1.1.5.
[b] If no water and antifreeze mixture is visible, proceed with block inspection.
7. Remove the plates, and drain the water jacket.
8. Remove the liners and seal rings.

EYE INJURY
9. Blow out all of the passages in the block with compressed air.
EYE INJURY
10. Dry the cylinder liners and inserts with compressed air, and coat them with oil to prevent
rust. Refer to section 1.1.5.
1.1.4.3 Inspection of Cylinder Block
Inspect the cylinder block as follows:

1. Visually inspect all machined surfaces for nicks or burrs.
[a] If surfaces are nicked or burred, smooth them with a stone.
[b] If surfaces are free of nicks and burrs, proceed with inspection.
2. Visually inspect tapped holes for thread damage.
[a] If threads are damaged, re-tap the holes or install helical thread inserts.
NOTE:
An insert block thread repair kit J 29513 is now available for installing an 11/16 in.-11
helicoil thread insert in the cylinder head retaining bolt holes and the main bearing cap
retaining bolt holes of the cylinder block.
[b] If threads are cracked, replace block.

[c] If threads are undamaged, proceed with inspection.
3. Visually inspect the block for loose or damaged dowel pins.
[a] If dowel pins are loose, tighten them.
[b] If dowel pins are damaged, replace them.
[c] If dowel pins are neither loose or damaged, proceed with inspection.

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
4. Measure dowel extension from the ends of the cylinder block. See Figure 1-10.
1. Measure Dowel Extension Here
Figure 1-10 Measuring Dowel Extension
[a] If on 6V and 8V engines, dowels do not extend 16.00 mm (0.630 in.) from the ends
of the cylinder block, the dowels must be replaced.
[b] If on 12V and 16V engines, dowels do not extend 22.35 mm (0.880 in.) from ends of
the cylinder block, the dowels must be replaced.
[c] If dowels extend the appropriate distance from the cylinder block, proceed with
inspection.

5. Measure the extension of the dowels used to retain the crankshaft thrust washers from
the bearing cap surface. See Figure 1-11.
Figure 1-11 Measurement of Bearing Cap Thrust Washer Dowel Extension
[a] If the dowels do not extend 2.79-3.05 mm (0.110-0.120 in.) from the surface of the
bearing cap, the dowels must be replaced.
[b] If the dowels extend the appropriate distance from the bearing cap surface, proceed
with inspection.
6. Inspect the dowel pins in the rear main bearing cap for looseness or damage.
[a] If pins are loose or damaged, they must be replaced.
NOTE:
Stepped dowel pins are used to replace damaged or loose pins. Prior to installation,
the holes in the bearing cap must be bored with a No. 11-4.851 mm (0.1910 in.) or No.
12-4.801 mm (0.1890 in.) drill.
[b] If pins are neither loose or damaged, proceed with inspection.

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
7. Using a straight edge and feeler gage, check the cylinder block head contact surfaces for
flatness. See Figure 1-12.
1. Feeler Gage
Figure 1-12 Measurement of Cylinder Block Head Contact Surfaces
[a] On 6V and 12V engines, if the cylinder head deck surfaces vary more than 0.08 mm
(0.003 in.) transversely, and 0.15 mm (0.006) longitudinally, the block must be
replaced. Refer to section 1.1.5 and refer to section 1.1.6.
[b] On 8V and 16V engines, if the cylinder head deck surfaces vary more than 0.08 mm
(0.003 in.) transversely, and 0.18 mm (0.007 in.) longitudinally, the block must be
replaced. Refer to section 1.1.5 and refer to section 1.1.6.
[c] If measurements fall within specifications, proceed with inspection.
8. Measure the distance from the centerline of the crankshaft to the top of the cylinder
head surface.
[a] If the distance is less than 411.07 mm (16.184 in.) or more than 411.20 mm (16.189
in.), replace the block. Refer to section 1.1.5 and refer to section 1.1.6.
[b] If the measurement falls within specifications, proceed with inspection.

9. Clean the counterbore and check counterbore depth. See Figure 1-13.
Figure 1-13 Measurement of Cylinder Liner Counter Bores
[a] If the measurement does not fall between 12.078 mm (0.4755 in.) and 12.116 mm
(0.4770 in.) and varies more than 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) throughout the entire
circumference, replace the cylinder block. Refer to section 1.1.5 and refer to section
1.1.6.
[b] If there is over a 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) difference between any two adjacent cylinder
counterbores, when measured along the cylinder longitudinal centerline, the cylinder
block must be replaced. Refer to section 1.1.5 and refer to section 1.1.6.
[c] If the counterbore measurements are within specifications, proceed with inspection.
10. Inspect the cylinder head retaining bolt holes for damaged threads.
[a] If the threads are damaged, use a tap to "clean-up" the threads. If necessary, install a
helical thread insert. Refer to section 1.1.4.4 for inspection of the main bearing bore.
[b] If threads are undamaged, proceed with inspection. Refer to section 1.1.4.4 for
inspection of the main bearing bore.
1.1.4.4 Inspection of Main Bearing Bore
Inspect the main bearing bores as follows:

1. Check the main bearing bore diameter. The specified bore diameter is 122.22-122.25 mm
(4.812-4.813 in.).

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
[a] If the diameters for each bore does not fall within these limits, the cylinder block
must be replaced. Refer to section 1.1.6 and refer to section 1.1.7.
[b] If the diameter for each bore falls within these limits, proceed with inspection.
NOTE:
At the time of major engine overhaul, the cylinder block main bearing bore measurements
should be made with the block in an upside down position on the floor rather than on an
engine overhaul stand.
2. Check the main bearing bores for misalignment.

[a] If bores are misaligned more than 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) overall, or 0.013 mm
0(.0005 in.) between adjacent bores, the block must be line-bored or discarded.
Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for line boring procedure and
refer to section 1.1.4.5 to continue inspection.
[b] If bores are aligned, proceed with inspection, refer to section 1.1.4.5.
1.1.4.5 Inspection of Block Bore
Inspect the block bores as follows:
NOTICE:
Cylinder block bore measurements should be made with the
block flat on the floor. The main bearing caps should be in place,
and the bolts torqued to 312-325 N·m (230-240 lb·ft). Failure

NOTICE:
to follow the torque specifications may result in damage to the
cylinder block.
1. Measure each cylinder bore on a 90 degree axis using cylinder bore gage J 5347-B.
See Figure 1-14.
Figure 1-14 Measurement of Cylinder Block Bore
NOTE:
Dial bore gage setting master tool J 23059-01 may be used for setting the cylinder
bore gage.
[a] At position A, diameter must not exceed 136.195 mm (5.3620 in.), if new, or 136.233
mm (5.3635 in.), if used.
[b] At position B, diameter must not exceed 135.598 mm (5.3385 in.), if new, or 135.623
mm (5.3395 in.) if used.

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
[c] At position C, diameter must not exceed 132.524 mm (5.2175 in.), if new, or 132.550
[d] At position D, diameter must not exceed 132.537 mm (5.2180 in.) if new, or 132.550
[e] If measurements do not fall within specifications, replace the block. Refer to section
1.1.5.
[f] If measurements fall within specifications, proceed with block bore inspection.
2. Measure the taper and out-of-roundness.
[a] If the taper and out-of-roundness exceeds 0.025 mm (0.0010 in.), the block must be
[b] If the taper and out-of-roundness falls within specifications, proceed with inspection.
3. Clean and inspect the seal ring grooves in the cylinder block bores.
[a] If grooves and lands are pitted or eroded, or if the grooves above the air inlet ports
are excessively eroded, replace the block. Refer to section 1.1.5.
[b] If grooves and lands are neither pitted nor eroded, refer to section 1.1.4.1 or
refer to section 1.1.4.2 for pressure test.
1.1.5 Assembly of Cylinder Block (12V and 16V Engines)
Assemble the 12V and 16V engine as follows:
EYE INJURY
NOTE:
Before a reconditioned or a new service replacement cylinder block is used, steam clean
to remove all traces of oil or rust preventive. Blow out the galleries with compressed air.

FALLING ENGINE
For assembly of the 6V and 8V engine refer to section 1.1.6.

1. Lift the cylinder block assembly with a chain hoist. Place the cylinder block on a clean,
flat surface with the seal strip groove in the front end facing up.
2. Apply a thin coat of Lubriplate®, or equivalent, in the seal strip and seal ring grooves.
Place a new seal strip in the groove.
3. Place two new seal rings in the seal ring grooves.
4. Place one new seal ring in the main oil gallery seal ring groove. The seal strip must lay
flat in the groove.
5. Apply a thin coat of Lubriplate, or equivalent, on the exposed flat surface of the seal strip.
Remove any excess Lubriplate from the cylinder block.
FALLING ENGINE
6. Mount the cylinder block on the overhaul stand.

7. If a new service replacement block is used:
□ Stamp the engine serial number and model number on the right-hand side of the
cylinder block.
□ Stamp the position number on the main bearing caps.
□ Stamp the No. 1 bearing position on the oil pan mounting flange.
8. Use a suitable non-hardening sealant on the threads of the plugs and drain cocks.
9. Install all of the required cylinder block plugs and drain cocks.
NOTE:
Effective with engines built from and after February 16, 1998, the 1 in. diameter holes in
the front left-bank of 6V, 8V, 12V, and 16V cylinder blocks have been eliminated. This
area is now cast solid to provide enhanced coolant flow to the upper cylinder areas of

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
the engine. On blocks built prior to the foregoing date, the 1 in. diameter cup plugs
used to seal this area have been or should be replaced by 1-1/4 in. long solid rubber
service plugs. When properly installed, the solid plugs provide an inside coolant passage
configuration similar to that in the improved blocks, resulting in enhanced upper cylinder
cooling. For this reason, only the solid plugs should be installed in this area when
assembling or servicing former blocks. Cup plugs should no linger be used. Apply
Loctite 620 or equivalent anaerobic sealant to the O.D. of the plugs, then install plugs in
the block until they bottom in the holes. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
for installation of new block plugs and cylinder block plugging instructions.
10. Install the necessary plugs and dowels. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION,
cylinder block plugging instructions.
11. Install and tighten the 2 1/2 in.-16 plugs to 312-366 N·m (230-270 lb·ft) torque using
plug installer J 23019.
12. Install the plugs flush with or below the surface of the block.
NOTE:
The plug, that blocks the oil cooler adaptor inlet from the adaptor outlet, must be installed
in the vertical passage.
13. Install subassemblies and parts on the block.
FALLING ENGINE
14. Use a chain hoist and suitable sling to transfer the engine to a dynamometer test stand.
15. Dismount the block from the lifting device.
16. Run the dynamometer test. Refer to section 11.6 for run-in procedures.
17. Lift the cylinder block approximately four feet off the floor to position the front cylinder
block over the rear cylinder block, horizontally and parallel.
NOTICE:
Do not slide the faces against each other. This may dislodge or
twist the block seal strip or oil gallery seal ring.
18. Lower the front block against the rear block. Position the front cylinder block as close to
the final alignment as possible before lowering it on the rear cylinder block.

19. Place a suitable wooden block, approximately 3 in. thick, across the number 7 (12V), or
8 (16V), main bearing cap as a support for the alignment tool.
20. Place the triangular cylinder block alignment tool J 21799 in the main bearing bore.
See Figure 1-15 for contact point locations. Rest the lower end of the tool on the wood
block.
1. Seal Ring 3. Seal Ring

2. Special Plug
Figure 1-15 Position of Cylinder Block Alignment Tool
21. Install the number 4, 5, and 6 (12V), or 5, 6, and 7 (16V), crankshaft main bearing caps in
their original positions. Tighten the bolts to 312-325 N·m (230-240 lb·ft) torque.
22. Lubricate the threads and the contact face of the cylinder block attaching bolts A, C, D,
and E with a small amount of International Compound No. 2, or equivalent.

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
23. Place a spacer on each "D" bolt, as shown in inset "D". See Figure 1-16.
1. Spacer 3. Washer
2. Liner Bore ID
Figure 1-16 Separation of Cylinder Liner Blocks
NOTE:
Do not tighten the bolts at this time.
24. If it is necessary to shift the front cylinder block when installing the attaching bolts, use a
soft hammer to tap at points "A" and "B". See Figure 1-16.
25. Move a dial indicator across the bottom faces (oil pan rail) of the cylinder blocks. The
mismatch, if any, between the bottom faces of the two blocks must be equal on both sides
of the cylinder block assembly within 0.05 mm (0.002 in.).
26. If it is necessary to shift the front cylinder block when checking the alignment, tap at
points "A" and "B" with a soft hammer to align the blocks.

27. Tighten the four "C" and "D" bolts to 217-231 N·m (160-170 lb·ft) torque.
28. Tighten the two "E" bolts to 217-231 N·m (160-170 lb·ft) torque.
29. Tighten the "A" bolt nut to 224-238 N·m (160-175 lb·ft) torque.
30. Repeat the cylinder block alignment check. If the alignment is unsatisfactory, loosen all of
the attaching bolts, realign the blocks, and retighten the attaching bolts.
31. When cylinder block is aligned, cut the excess block seal strip lengths flush with the
bottom face of the block.
32. Remove the cylinder block alignment tool J 21799 and the wood block.
FALLING ENGINE
33. Lift the cylinder block assembly with a chain hoist, and place it horizontally on a clean,
flat surface.
34. Install the "B" bolts and washers. Use power universal socket J 25451-4A and hex bit
J 25451-5 from set J 25451-B.
NOTICE:
Do not use socket J 25451-4A from set J 25451-B when torquing
these bolts. Damage to the socket could occur.
35. Tighten bolts to 325-339 N·m (240-250 lb·ft) torque, using wrench J 25451-7 from set
J 25451-B. Refer to section 1.1.7 for installation of engine.
1.1.6 Assembly of Cylinder Block (6V and 8V Engines)
Assemble 6V and 8V engines as follows:

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
PERSONAL INJURY
EYE INJURY
NOTE:
Before a reconditioned or a new service replacement cylinder block is used, steam clean
to remove all traces of oil or rust preventive. Blow out the galleries with compressed air.
FALLING ENGINE
1. Mount the cylinder block on the overhaul stand.

2. If a new service replacement block is used:
□ Stamp the engine serial number and model number on the right-hand side of the
cylinder block.
□ Stamp the position number on the main bearing caps.
□ Stamp the No. 1 bearing position on the oil pan mounting flange.
3. Use a suitable non-hardening sealant on the surface of the block.
4. Install all of the required cylinder block plugs and drain cocks.
NOTE:
Effective with engines built from and after February 16, 1998, the 1 in. diameter holes in
the front left-bank of 6V, 8V, 12V, and 16V cylinder blocks have been eliminated. This
area is now cast solid to provide enhanced coolant flow to the upper cylinder areas of
the engine. On blocks built prior to the foregoing date, the 1 in. diameter cup plugs
used to seal this area have been or should be replaced by 1-1/4 in. long solid rubber
service plugs. When properly installed, the solid plugs provide an inside coolant passage
configuration similar to that in the improved blocks, resulting in enhanced upper cylinder
cooling. For this reason, only the solid plugs should be installed in this area when

assembling or servicing former blocks. Cup plugs should no linger be used. Apply
Loctite 620 or equivalent anaerobic sealant to the O.D. of the plugs, then install plugs in
the block until they bottom in the holes. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
for installation of new block plugs and cylinder block plugging instructions.
5. Install the necessary plugs and dowels. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION,
cylinder block plugging instructions.
6. Use a suitable non-hardening sealant on the threads of the plugs and drain cocks.
7. Install the plugs flush with or below the surfaces of the block.
NOTE:
The plug, that blocks the oil cooler adaptor inlet from the adaptor outlet, must be installed
in the vertical passage.
8. Use tool J 33420 to install the 1 in. plug in the oil gallery to a 86.4 mm (3.40 in.) depth.
9. Use tool J 34650 to install the sealant-coated 1/8 in.-27 pipe plugs.
10. Install a stepped dowel pin to replace loose pins in the rear main bearing cap.
11. Remove all burrs from the base of the dowel pins to ensure proper seating of the thrust
washers.
12. Install assemblies and parts.
FALLING ENGINE
13. Use a chain hoist and suitable sling to transfer the engine to a dynamometer test stand.
Refer to section 11.6 for run-in procedures.
FALLING ENGINE
14. Dismount the block from the lifting device.

1.1 CYLINDER BLOCK
15. Use the dynamometer to run the engine.

16. Run the dynamometer test. Refer to section 1.1.7 for installation of engine.
1.1.7 Installation of Engine
Install the engine as follows:
FALLING ENGINE
1. Use a spreader bar with a suitable sling and adequate chain hoist to replace the engine
in its base.
2. Replace the engine mounting bolts.
3. Connect the engine to the transmission or other driven mechanisms.
4. Connect lubricating oil lines.
5. Connect the fuel lines.
6. Connect the electrical connections.
7. Attach the air box covers. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
NOTE:
DDC recommends retrofitting existing 6V inline coach engines with the new air box
covers and drains because of the significant drainage improvement. Refer to section
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
NOTE:
To ensure efficient air box drainage, install air box covers with the drilled drain openings
down and the slot in the large cover facing inboard. Install check valves at an angle of
30 degrees to 45 degrees. Do not install check valves horizontally. Refer to section
8. Attach the air box drain tubes and fittings. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
9. Attach the radiator, fan guard, and other related cooling system parts. Refer to section
4.6.3.
10. Attach the air compressor, if used. Refer to section 10.1.

11. Connect the starting motor, battery-charging alternator, and other related electrical system
parts. Refer to section 8.1.3 and refer to section 8.2.3.
12. Connect the throttle controls.
13. Connect the exhaust piping, and the exhaust manifolds. Refer to section 7.2.3.
14. Install the turbocharger, if used. Refer to section 6.6.5.
15. Replace the air cleaner and mounting brackets. Refer to section 6.2.3.
16. Connect the fuel lines. Refer to section 2.21.5.
17. Fill lubricating system with the recommended grade of oil and viscosity. Refer to section
5.2 and refer to section 13.5.1.
18. Fill the cooling system with the specified antifreeze. Refer to section 5.3 and
refer to section 13.12.2.
19. Refer to section 11.6 for the run-in procedures.

1.2 CYLINDER BLOCK END PLATES
Flat steel plates bolted to each end of the cylinder block provide a support for the flywheel
housing at the rear and a balance weight cover at the front of the engine. See Figure 1-17. The
rear end plate has a 3 in. diameter breather hole for crankcase ventilation. Gaskets are used
between the block and each end plate. On current engines, the left-bank accessory drive mounting
hole in the rear end plate is omitted, unless an accessory drive is specified.
1. Rear End Plate 4. Front End Plate Gasket

2. Rear End Plate Gasket 5. Front End Plate
3. Cylinder Block
Figure 1-17 Cylinder Block Front and Rear End Plates (8V Engine)

1.2.1 Repair or Replacement of Cylinder Block End Plate

See Figure 1-18.
Figure 1-18 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Cylinder Block

End Plates

1.2.2 Removal of Cylinder Block Rear End Plate
Remove the cylinder block rear end plates as follows:

1. Remove the 5/8 in.-11 x 1 in. bolt on the right rear side of the rear end plate. See Figure
1-19.
1. Rear End Plate 4. Rear End Plate Gasket

2. Rear End Plate Bolt 5. Cylinder Block
3. Washer
Figure 1-19 Cylinder Block Rear End Plate
2. Remove the bolts and lock washers retaining the rear end plate to the cylinder block.
3. Remove and discard gaskets. Refer to section 1.2.3.

1.2.3 Removal of Cylinder Block Front End Plate
Remove the front end plate as follows:

1. Remove the bolts and lock washers retaining the front end plate to the cylinder block.
See Figure 1-20.
1. Front End Plate Bolt 4. Front End Plate Gasket

2. Front End Plate 5. Cylinder Block
3. Small Round Gasket 6. Lock Washer
Figure 1-20 Cylinder Block Front End Plate
2. Remove and discard the gaskets. Refer to section 1.2.3.1.

3. Refer to section 1.2.3.1 for cleaning of cylinder block end plate.

1.2.3.1 Cleaning of Cylinder Block End Plate
Prior to inspection, clean the end plates as follows:

1. All of the old gasket material must be removed from both surfaces of the end plate and
the cylinder block.
PERSONAL INJURY
2. Immerse the end plates in a hot bath of commercial heavy-duty alkaline cleaner solution.
PERSONAL INJURY
3. Rinse them in hot water, or steam clean to remove the alkaline cleaner solution.
4. Refer to section 1.2.3.2 for inspection of cylinder block end plate.
1.2.3.2 Inspection of Cylinder Block End Plate
Inspect the cylinder block end plates as follows:

1. Inspect both surfaces of each end plate for nicks, dents, scratches, or score marks.
[a] If nicked, dented, scratched, or scored, clean with crocus cloth.
[b] If excessively nicked, dented, scratched, or scored, replace the end plates.
Refer to section 1.2.4.
[c] If the end plates are not nicked, dented, scratched, or scored, proceed with inspection.
2. Check the end plates for warpage.
[a] If warped, replace the end plates. Refer to section 1.2.4.
[b] If the end plates are not warped, proceed with inspection.
3. Check the plug nuts in the end plates for cracks or damaged threads.
[a] If cracked or threads are damaged, replace the plug nuts. Refer to section 1.2.4
to continue installation.

[b] If not cracked or damaged, reuse the plug nuts. Refer to section 1.2.4 for installation
of cylinder block front end plate.
1.2.4 Installation of Cylinder Block Front End Plate
Install the front end plate as follows:

1. Affix new gaskets to the ends of the cylinder block. Attach the small round gasket to the
corner at the front end of the cylinder block. See Figure 1-21.
1. Front End Plate Bolt 4. Front End Plate Gasket

2. Front End Plate 5. Cylinder Block
3. Small Round Gasket 6. Lock Washer
Figure 1-21 Cylinder Block Front End Plate

2. Attach the front end plate to the cylinder block with bolts and lock washers. Finger-tighten
the bolts.
3. Insert the right-bank camshaft end bearing through the SMALL bearing bore in the end
plate and into the block bore to accurately align the end plate with the cylinder block.
NOTE:
The holes in the front and rear end plates for the camshaft end bearings are not the
same size. The smaller hole is accurately machined for alignment purposes and is
always located on the right side of the engine, as viewed from the rear.
4. With the bearing in place, tighten the 1/2 in.-13 end plate-to-cylinder block bolts to
96-102 N·m (71-75 lb·ft) torque. Tighten the 3/8 in.-16 bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft)
torque.
5. Remove the camshaft bearing that served as a pilot while attaching the front end plate.
Refer to section 1.2.5 for installation of cylinder block rear end plate.
1.2.5 Installation of Cylinder Block Rear End Plate
Install the rear end plate as follows:
NOTE:
Prior to installing the end plate, attach the small cover (if used) to the cylinder block side
of the rear end plate with two bolts and copper washers. Use a new gasket between the
cover and the end plate.

1. Affix new gaskets to the ends of the cylinder block. See Figure 1-22.
1. Rear End Plate 4. Rear End Plate Gasket

2. Rear End Plate Bolt 5. Cylinder Block
3. Washer
Figure 1-22 Cylinder Block Rear End Plate
2. Attach the rear end plate to the cylinder block with bolts and lock washers. Finger-tighten
the bolts.
3. Insert the right-bank camshaft end bearing through the SMALL bearing bore in the end
plate and into the block bore to accurately align the end plate with the cylinder block.
NOTE:
The holes in the front and rear end plates for the camshaft end bearings are not the
same size. The smaller hole is accurately machined for alignment purposes and is
always located on the engine's right side, as viewed from the rear.

4. With the bearing in place, tighten the 1/2 in.-13 end plate-to-cylinder block bolts to
96-102 N·m (71-75 lb·ft) torque. Tighten the 3/8 in.-16 bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft)
torque. Remove the camshaft bearing that served as a pilot while the front end plate was
being attached. Remove the camshaft bearing that served as a pilot while the front end
plate was being attached.
5. Install the 5/8 in.-11 X 1 in. bolt on the right rear side of the end plate. Tighten it to
140-149 N·m (103-110 lb·ft) torque.
6. Trim off any excess gasket material.

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder head is a one-piece casting. Special 11/16 in.-11 bolts and hardened washers or
special 11/16 in.-11 washer faced bolts hold the cylinder head securely on each cylinder block
bank. See Figure 1-23.
1. Cylinder Block 3. Cylinder Head Assembly

2. Cylinder Head Gasket 4. Cylinder Head Bolts
Figure 1-23 Cylinder Head
The exhaust valves, fuel injectors, and the valve and injector operating mechanism are located in
the cylinder head. The four exhaust valves (per cycle) are arranged in a trapezoidal configuration,
with two valves set farther apart than the others.
Exhaust valve seat inserts, pressed into the cylinder head, permit accurate valve seating under
varying temperatures and prolong cylinder head life.

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
To ensure efficient cooling, each fuel injector is inserted into a thin-walled tube that passes
through the water space in the cylinder head. See Figure 1-24. The lower end of the injector tube
is pressed into the cylinder head and flared. The upper end is flanged and sealed with a seal ring.
The upper and lower ends of the injector tube prevent water and compression leaks.
1. Exhaust Valve 5. Nozzles

2. Fuel Injector 6. Water Passage (Block to Head)
3. Rack 7. Water Passage Around Fuel Injector Tube and
Through Cylinder Head
4. Injector Tube
Figure 1-24 Coolant Passages Around Exhaust Valves and Fuel Injectors
The exhaust passages from each cylinder exhaust valve lead through a single port to the exhaust
manifold. Engine coolant surrounds the exhaust passages and the injector tubes.

Water nozzles pressed into the water inlet ports in the cylinder head further ensure cooling.
See Figure 1-25. The nozzles direct high velocity engine coolant toward the cylinder head
sections that are subjected to the greatest heat.
1. Water Nozzles
Figure 1-25 Cylinder Head Water Nozzles

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
New cylinder heads with small diameter, one-piece, double-jet water nozzles are being used
on Series 92 Engines, effective with serial numbers 6VF-72972, 8VF-65910 and 16VF-4322.
See Figure 1-26. Water nozzle hole diameters have been reduced from 20.62 to 13.72 mm
(0.812 to 0.540 in.), leaving more material between nozzle holes and bolt holes to improve
nozzle-to-head sealing.
1. Seal
Figure 1-26 Former and Current Water Nozzle Installation
The fuel inlet and outlet manifolds are integrally cast into the cylinder head. Tapped holes are
provided for fuel line connection at various points along each manifold. Water flow is entirely
internal on the 6V and 8V end outlet cylinder heads. On 12V and 16V engines, a water manifold
is attached to each cylinder head.
To seal compression between the cylinder head and the cylinder liner, separate laminated metal
gaskets are provided at each cylinder. Water and oil passages between the cylinder head and
cylinder block are sealed with the same size silicone seal rings that fit into counterbored holes in
the block. A synthetic rubber seal fits into a milled groove near the perimeter of the block.
Heat-sensitive fuse plugs are installed in the exhaust manifold side of the cylinder head. The plug
insert will melt if the head exceeds its "critical" temperature of 125°C (257°F). Former cylinder
heads use a 1/8 in. fuse plug with a slotted head. Current cylinder heads have a larger fuse plug
hole and use a 1/4 in. recessed square socket head fuse plug. Special sealant is applied to the
new plug to improve sealing.

NOTICE:
The cylinder head firedeck will overheat and crack if the coolant
does not cover the firedeck surface.
The engine operating temperature should be maintained within the operating range. The cooling
system should be inspected daily and kept full at all times. Refer to section 13.7.2.
Abnormal operating conditions or improper maintenance can cause cracks in the cylinder head. If
cracking occurs, correct the cause to avoid recurring failure.
Unsuitable water in the cooling system forms lime and scale deposits and prevents proper cooling.
Refer to section 5.3.1.7 and refer to section 5.3.1.8 for engine coolant recommendations.
Loose or improperly seated injector tubes cause compression leaks in the cooling system and
engine coolant loss. The tubes must be tight to properly seat. Refer to section 2.4.3.
A melted fuse plug insert indicates that the engine has overheated, possibly damaging the cylinder
head. If the fuse plug insert has melted, both cylinder heads must be removed and inspected. All
water nozzles and injector hole tubes should be replaced and the proper fuse plugs installed before
cylinder heads are reused.
NOTICE:
Overtightened injector clamp bolts may cause head cracks.
Always use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.
Other conditions that may result in cylinder head cracks are listed below:
□ Leaking injectors causing excess fuel to enter the cylinders.
□ Slipping fan belts reduce air flow, causing the engine to overheat.
□ Dirt on the radiator core reduces air flow and slows the heat transfer.
□ Inoperative radiator caps result in coolant loss.
1.3.1 Repair or Replacement of Cylinder Head

See Figure 1-27.

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
Figure 1-27 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Cylinder Head

1.3.2 Removal of Cylinder Head
Remove the cylinder head as follows:
NOTE:
Only the general steps for cylinder head removal are covered. If the engine is equipped
with accessories that affect cylinder head removal, note the position of each before
disconnecting or removing them to ensure correct installation.
NOTE:
To improve resistance to "wet stacking," Detroit Diesel recommends installing exhaust
valve stem seals on industrial engines whenever a cylinder head is removed.

2. Disconnect the exhaust piping at the exhaust manifold. Refer to section 7.2.2.

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
3. On turbocharged engines, remove the connections from the exhaust manifold to the
turbocharger. See Figure 1-28.
1. Right-Bank Exhaust Manifold Tube 4. Left-Bank Exhaust Manifold Clamp (2)

2. Right-Bank Exhaust Manifold Clamp (2) 5. Left-Bank Exhaust Manifold Tube
3. Turbocharger
Figure 1-28 Turbocharger Exhaust Manifold Tubes
4. If necessary, remove the turbocharger. Refer to section 6.6.2.

5. Disconnect the fuel lines at the cylinder head. Refer to section 2.2.2.
6. Loosen the hose clamps, and remove the hose attached to the thermostat housing cover.
7. Loosen the hose clamps at each end of the water bypass tube, and remove the tube.
8. Remove the thermostat housing assembly. Refer to section 4.5.2.
9. Clean and remove the valve rocker cover. Refer to section 1.6.2. Discard the gaskets.

10. Clean and remove the governor cover. Refer to section 2.24.2, step 4. Discard the gaskets.
11. On the mechanical unit injector, disconnect and remove the fuel rod from the injector
control tube lever and the governor. Refer to section 2.24.2, step 6.
12. On engines equipped with a mechanical unit injector, loosen the fuel rod cover hose
clamps. Slide the hose up the fuel rod cover toward the governor.
13. Remove injectors. Refer to section 2.2.2.
14. Remove the exhaust manifold. Refer to section 7.2.2.
15. Remove the water manifold, if used.
16. Remove the injector control tube and brackets as an assembly. Refer to section 2.33.3.
17. If disassembling the cylinder head to recondition the exhaust valves and valve seat inserts
or to perform a complete overhaul, remove the fuel pipes and injectors. Refer to section
2.2.2 and refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
18. Check the torque on the cylinder head bolts before removing the head.
19. Remove the bolts and washers. Lift the cylinder head from the cylinder block with tool
J 22062-01.
NOTE:
If there is resistance between the rear end of the right-bank cylinder head and any of the
flywheel attaching bolts, loosen the bolts. Check the torque before removing the head
bolts, and examine the condition of the compression gaskets and seals after the head is
removed. This may reveal the cause of any cylinder head problems.
20. Remove and discard the cylinder head compression gaskets, support shims, and the oil
seals and water seals.
21. Drain the lubricating oil from the engine. Refer to section 13.5.2.
22. Refer to section 1.3.2.1 for cleaning of cylinder head, or refer to section 1.3.2.2 if cleaning
a service replacement cylinder head.
1.3.2.1 Cleaning Cylinder Head
Clean the cylinder head as follows:

Prior to inspection, thoroughly steam clean the cylinder head.
If the water passages are heavily coated with scale, clean as follows:
1. Remove the injector tubes and water nozzles.

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
PERSONAL INJURY
2. Immerse the head in a bath of inhibited phosphoric acid.

3. Leave the head in the acid bath until the bubbling stops (approximately 30 minutes).
PERSONAL INJURY
4. Lift the head, drain it, and re-immerse it in the same acid solution for 10 minutes.
5. Repeat procedure until all scale is removed.
6. Rinse the head in clear hot water to remove acid solution.
PERSONAL INJURY
7. Immerse the head in an alkaline bath to neutralize any remaining acid.
PERSONAL INJURY
8. Wash the head in clean water or steam clean it.

FIRE
refueling.
9. Clean all of the cylinder head components with fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
10. Dry them with compressed air.

11. Refer to section 1.3.3 for disassembly of the cylinder head.
1.3.2.2 Cleaning a Service Replacement Cylinder Head
If a service replacement cylinder head is to be installed, it must be thoroughly cleaned of rust

preventive compound as follows:
NOTE:
A service replacement cylinder head includes the exhaust valve guides, valve seat
inserts, water nozzles, injector tubes, pilot sleeves, bridge guides, valve spring seats and
the necessary plugs. Shims, strip studs, cover plates, gaskets, lock washers, and nuts
are provided to seal the unused water outlet openings. A length of flexible fuel hose and
fittings are also included where required.
PERSONAL INJURY
1. Immerse the head in mineral spirits based solvent or fuel oil.

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
2. Scrub the head, and clean all of the openings with a soft bristle brush, particularly inside
the integral fuel manifolds.
NOTE:
Attach a 1/8 in. diameter brass rod to brush J 8152 to make a suitable brush for cleaning
the various passages in the head.
EYE INJURY
3. Dry the cylinder head with compressed air.

4. Refer to section 1.3.3 for disassembly of the cylinder head.
1.3.3 Disassembly of Cylinder Head
If complete cylinder head disassembly is necessary, refer to section 1.4 and refer to section 1.5.
When overhauling a cylinder head, pressure test method is needed. Refer to section
1.3.3.1 Inspect Firedeck
Inspect the firedeck as follows:

1. Use a heavy, accurate straight edge and feeler gage, tool J 3172, to check for transverse
warpage at each cylinder head end and between all cylinders.
[a] If warpage exceeds 0.011 mm (0.0040 in.), the cylinder head firedeck must be
[b] If warpage is less than 0.011 mm (0.0040 in.), proceed with inspection.

2. Check for longitudinal warpage in six places. See Figure 1-29.
Figure 1-29 Checking Bottom Face of Cylinder Head
[a] If warpage exceeds 0.140 mm (0.0055 in.) on 6V engines or 0.203 mm (0.0080 in.)
on 8V and 16V engines, the cylinder head firedeck must be replaced. Refer to section
1.3.4.
[b] If warpage is less than 0.140 mm (0.0055 in.) on 6V engines or less than 0.203 mm
(0.0080 in.) on 8V and 16V engines, proceed with inspection.
3. Examine the firedeck for pitting.
[a] If the firedeck is pitted, it must be replaced. Refer to section 1.3.4.
[b] If the firedeck is not pitted, proceed with inspection.
4. Use the measurements obtained and the limits as a guide to determine the advisability of
reinstalling the head on the engine or of re-facing it.
NOTE:
The number of times a cylinder head may be refaced will depend upon the amount of
stock previously removed.
NOTE:
If the cylinder head is to be refaced, remove the injector tubes prior to machining. Any
machining of the fire deck can be done with the water nozzles in place. Do not remove

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
more metal from the fire deck of any cylinder head below the minimum distance of
89.81 mm (3.536 in.) See Figure 1-30.
Figure 1-30 Minimum Distance Between Top and Bottom Faces of

Cylinder Head
NOTE:
When a cylinder head has been refaced, critical dimensions such as the protrusion
of valve seat inserts, exhaust valves, injector tubes, and injector spray tips must be
checked and corrected. The push rods must also be adjusted to prevent the exhaust
valves from striking the pistons after the cylinder head is reinstalled in the engine. Also,
de-burr the water nozzles.
5. Install new injector tubes if the old tubes leaked or the cylinder head was refused.
NOTE:
If the engine overheated, injector tubes in both cylinder heads must be replaced
6. Inspect the exhaust valves seat inserts and valve guides. Refer to section 1.5.6.2.
7. Inspect the cam follower bores. Refer to section 1.3.3.2.
1.3.3.2 Inspection of Cam Follower Bore
Inspect the cam follower bores in the cylinder head as follows:

1. Inspect for scoring or wear.

[a] If the bores are excessively scored or worn, replace the cylinder head. Refer to section
1.3.5.
FIRE
refueling.
[b] Light score marks may be cleaned up with crocus cloth wet with fuel oil.
2. Determine cam follower-to-cylinder head clearance.
[a] Measure the bore diameters with a telescope gage and micrometer.
[b] Measure the diameter of the cam followers with a micrometer.
[c] Compare the readings of the cam followers and bores to determine the
follower-to-bore clearances.
NOTE:
Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for the specifications listed in Table 1-27,
to determine the follower-to-bore clearances.
1.3.3.3 Inspection of Cylinder Head
Inspect the water hole nozzles as follows:

1. Check the water hole nozzles to ensure they are not loose.
[a] If loose, replace the water hole nozzles. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
[b] If not loose, continue inspection.
2. Visually inspect manifold cover and exhaust manifold studs for damage.
[a] If broken or damaged, replace the studs. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
[b] If not broken or damaged, proceed with inspection.
NOTE:
Apply sealant to the threads of new studs, and drive water manifold cover studs to 14-34
N·m (10-25 lb·ft) torque and exhaust manifold studs to 34-54 N·m (25-40 lb·ft) torque.
3. Inspect the pilot sleeves.

[a] If pilot sleeves are damaged, they must be replaced.
[b] If they are not flush or recessed, replace the pilot sleeves.

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
[c] If the pilot sleeves are undamaged and properly positioned, proceed with inspection.
4. Inspect the fuel connectors for cracks, nicks, and damaged threads.
[a] If cracked, nicked, or damaged, replace the fuel connectors. Refer to section 2.2.5,
step 5.
[b] If not cracked, nicked, or damaged, continue inspection.
1.3.3.4 Inspection of Cylinder Head (Pre-Installation)
Perform the following inspections prior to cylinder head installation:

1. Check the cylinder liner flange heights in relation to the cylinder block. Refer to section
1.23.3.
2. Ensure piston crowns are clean and free of foreign material.
[a] If dirt and foreign material are evident, clean the piston crowns.
[b] If no dirt and foreign material are evident, proceed with the inspection.
3. Ensure each push rod is threaded into its clevis until the end of the push rod projects
through the clevis.
NOTICE:
Push rod inspection is important. If the push rods are threaded
incorrectly, serious engine damage could occur when the
crankshaft is rotated during engine tune-up.
[a] If incorrectly threaded, remove and thread correctly.

[b] If threaded correctly, continue with the inspection.
4. Check the cylinder block and cylinder head gasket surfaces, counterbores and seal grooves
to ensure they are clean and free of foreign material, burrs and sharp edges.
[a] If foreign material is evident, clean the block, gasket surfaces, counterbores, and
seal grooves.
[b] If burred and sharp edges are detected, use an emery cloth to remove burrs and
sharp edges.
[c] If clean and no burrs or sharp edges are detected, continue inspection.
5. Inspect the cylinder head bolt holes in the block for water, oil, or any foreign material.
[a] If dirt, oil, water, or foreign materials are in the holes, clean the bolt holes thoroughly.
[b] If holes are free of dirt, oil, water, or foreign materials, proceed with cylinder head
installation.
1.3.4 Assembly of Cylinder Head
If complete cylinder head assembly is necessary, refer to section 1.4 and refer to section 1.5.

1.3.5 Installation of Cylinder Head
Install the water and oil seal rings, support shims and compression gaskets as follows:
NOTICE:
Never install used compression gaskets or seals.
1. Place a new compression gasket on top of each cylinder liner.
NOTE:
New compression gaskets are color coded (red, black or no-paint) on the outside
diameter to identify gasket sizes. Only gaskets of one color code should be used under
any one cylinder head.
2. Check the liner height. Refer to section 1.23.3.
NOTE:
A new-source, optional design cylinder liner compression gasket has been released.
See Figure 1-31. The new optional gasket will be of one thickness with the "no paint"
identification. It can be intermixed on an engine under the same head only with the
current "no paint" compression gasket.
1. Cylinder Liner 3. Cylinder Block

2. Gasket 4. Insert
Figure 1-31 Compression Gasket Mounting in Cylinder Block

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
NOTE:
To prevent end cylinder head bolt breakage, support shims are attached at each end of
the cylinder block (two per cylinder bank). See Figure 1-32.
1. Support Shims
Figure 1-32 Cylinder Head Support Shims in Place
3. Remove the adhesive paper and place the support shims, adhesive side down, at each
end of the cylinder block. The scallop in the shim placed at the rear of the block must
be at the oil supply hole.
4. Place new seal rings in the water and oil hole counterbores.
NOTICE:
Silicone-composition water hole seals can be damaged if they
move out of position in the cylinder block counterbore. Damaged
seals can allow engine coolant to contaminate lube oil, causing
serious engine damage. Spray adhesive may be used to hold
seals in place.
If a spray adhesive is used, install the water and oil seal rings, support shims and compression
gaskets as follows:
1. Attach a mask or template to the cylinder block firedeck to minimize overspray.
NOTE:
Use a high-tack, spray type adhesive suitable for synthetic rubber seals (3M Super
Tack™ Gasket Adhesive No. 8082, or equivalent).

NOTICE:
Do not apply adhesive directly to the seal. The adhesive will coat
the seal inner diameter, causing the seal to temporarily swell.
2. Spray a light, uniform coating of adhesive into the seal counterbores. Keep the adhesive
off adjacent block surfaces. Wipe any spray from the firedeck or liner bores.
NOTE:
Allow the adhesive to dry to a high-tack before installing the seal. This permits liquid
propellant used with the adhesive to evaporate.
3. Install a new oil seal in the groove around the cylinder block perimeter.
NOTE:
The colored side of the seal should face away from the cylinders. This ensures an oil
seal between the cylinder head and block.
NOTE:
The seal must lay flat in the groove and must not be twisted or stretched when installed.
NOTE:
3M Company Super Tack Gasket adhesive No. 8082 or equivalent may be used to hold
the peripheral head-to-block oil seals in place during cylinder head installation.
4. To install the cylinder head on the engine without disturbing the gaskets and seals, install
guide studs J 24748 in two outboard corner bolt holes in the cylinder block.
NOTE:
Do not install guide studs in the bolt holes that line-up with the pilot sleeves in the head.
5. Attach lifting tool J 22062-01 to the cylinder head. Lift the head above the cylinder block.
NOTICE:
Gaskets and seals that are not seated properly will cause leaks,
"blow-by," and result in poor engine performance and damage.
Out of place shim strips can damage cylinder head bolts.
6. Make a final visual check of the compression gaskets, seals and shims to ensure they are in
place before the cylinder head is lowered.
7. Wipe debris from the bottom of the cylinder head.
8. Lower the head over the guide studs and onto the surface of the cylinder block.
9. Apply a small amount of International Compound No. 2, or equivalent, to the threads and
underside of the head of all cylinder head attaching bolts.

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
10. Install a 6 point bolt and an 11/16 in. washer or 12 point washer faced bolt through each
piloting sleeve at the inboard corners of the head.
NOTE:
Cylinder head bolts must not be replaced by ordinary bolts.
11. Finger-tighten the bolts into the cylinder block.
NOTE:
To ensure adequate head bolt clamp load, all 12 point head bolts with "LE" head
identification should be replaced. Do not use the 11/16 in. washer with the washer
faced bolt.
12. Install the bolts on the camshaft side of the head to take up tension on the push rod springs.
13. Remove the guide studs and lifting fixture.
14. Install the remaining bolts.
15. Tighten the bolts to 20-27 N·m (15-20 lb·ft) torque with a speed handle.

16. To prevent cylinder head misalignment on 12V and 16V engines, use an alignment
fixture. See Figure 1-33.
1. Nut 4. Water Manifold

2. Cylinder Head 5. Fixture
3. Spacer
Figure 1-33 Cylinder Head Alignment Fixture for 12V and 16V Engines

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
NOTICE:
When replacing the cylinder head(s) on a Series 92 engine, the
required installation procedure and torque specifications must be
used to ensure the integrity of the cylinder head-to-block seal.
Failure to follow the required cylinder head installation procedure
and observe required torque values may result in head-to-block
seal leakage, causing loss or contamination of lubricating oil or
coolant or both and subsequent severe engine damage.
17. Tighten the cylinder head attaching bolts using the following torque-turn method:
[a] Using an accurately calibrated torque turn wrench and working in increments of
41 N·m (50 lb·ft), gradually tighten the cylinder head mounting bolts to 204 N·m
(150 lb·ft) torque in the sequence shown. See Figure 1-34. Hold the wrench at this
torque for 2-3 seconds to allow bolts to turn while the compression leaks yield to
their crushed thickness.

[b] Perform the following operations one bolt at a time in the sequence shown.
See Figure 1-34.
NOTE:
The loosening, retightening, and torque turn procedures that follow must be completed
on each bolt separately before moving on to the next bolt.
Figure 1-34 Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Sequence
NOTE:
Detroit Diesel recommends using torque angle meter J 37990 for the following
operations. If not available, use an accurately calibrated torque wrench and premark a
socket with four marks 90 degrees apart. At the start of each turn, mark the head with a
grease pencil at one mark in the socket and turn to the next mark.
18. Starting with the number 1 bolt in the sequence shown (see Figure 1-34), back off the bolt
until loose, at least 1/2 turn. Then tighten the bolt to 136 N·m (100 lb·ft) torque.

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
NOTICE:
Attempting to tighten the bolts in one step may result in
difficulties, such as compression leaks, when the engine is put
into operation.
19. Rotate the bolt clockwise 90 degrees. Try to turn the bolt in a single arc with one pull
of the wrench. See Figure 1-35.
Figure 1-35 Bolt Torque-Turn Method
20. Repeat this procedure for each bolt in the required sequence. This will ensure an even
clamp load on the cylinder head.
NOTE:
Tightening the cylinder head bolts will not correct a leaking compression gasket or seal.
The head must be removed and the damaged gasket or seal replaced.

21. On 12V and 16V engines, install the fuel and water connectors between the cylinder
heads. Dry seal connectors are used at the fuel connection between the cylinder heads.
See Figure 1-36.
1. Water Connections 3. Cylinder Heads

2. Fuel Oil Connectors
Figure 1-36 Fuel Connectors and Water Connections (12V and 16V Engines)
22. Ensure tapped holes in the water hole plugs are in alignment.
23. Adjust the exhaust valve bridges. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
24. Tighten the rocker arm bracket bolts to the specified torque. Refer to section
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION specifications.
25. Install the fuel injectors. Refer to section 2.2.5.
26. Install the fuel pipes. Refer to section 2.2.5.

1.3 CYLINDER HEAD
27. Align the fuel pipes and connect them to the injectors and the fuel connectors.
Refer to section 2.2.5, step 5.
NOTE:
Do not reuse the original fuel pipes. DDC recommends installing the new flared end
fuel pipes.
NOTICE:
Follow the torque specifications closely and use the
recommended tools to avoid damaging the fuel pipes. Fuel
leaking from damaged or improperly installed fuel pipes can
cause lube oil dilution, which may result in serious engine
damage.
28. Use fuel line nut wrench J 8932-B and "clicker" type torque wrench J 24405 calibrated in
inch-pounds to tighten fuel pipe nuts on fuel pipes. Specifications are listed in Table 1-1.
Fuel Pipe Usage Torque

Endurion®-Coated 14.69 N·m (130 lb·in.)
Uncoated 18.3 N·m (160 lb·in.)
*Jake Brake® 13.6 N·m (120 lb·in.)
Load Limiting Devices 18.3 N·m (160 lb·in.)
DDEC Engines 16.16 N·m (143 lb·in.)
* Not serviced. Available from Jacobs Vehicle Equipment Company. JJake Brake® is a registered trademark of Diesel Engine
Retarders, Inc.
Table 1-1 Jumper Line Nut Torque
29. Install the injector control tube assembly. Refer to section 2.33.6.
30. Finger-tighten the attaching bolts.
NOTE:
When positioning the control tube, ensure the ball end of each injector rack control
lever engages the slot in the corresponding injector control rack. One end of the control
tube return spring should attach around an injector rack control lever and the other end
should attach around a control tube bracket
31. Tighten the bracket bolts to 14-16 N·m (10-12 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
Revolve the injector control tube to ensure the return spring pulls the injector racks out
(no-fuel position) after they have been moved all the way in (full-fuel position). If the
control tube binds, tap it lightly. The injector racks must return to the no-fuel position by
aid of the return spring only. Do not bend the spring. Replace the spring, if necessary.
32. Install the fuel rods. Refer to section 2.24.21.

33. Slide the fuel rod cover hoses in place, and tighten the clamps.
34. Connect the fuel lines. Refer to section 2.21.5.
NOTE:
New Teflon stainless steel fuel crossover lines are being used on all upright and tilt coach
engines, effective with engine serial numbers 6VF-106261 and 8VF-85643. The new
hose assemblies replace the steel tube assemblies formerly used between the cylinder
heads. When replacing a steel tube assembly, both lines must be changed. A Teflon
stainless steel hose assembly cannot be used in conjunction with a steel tube assembly.
35. Install the thermostat housing and thermostat. Refer to section 4.5.3.
36. Install the water manifold, if used. Refer to section 4.4.3.
37. Install the water bypass tube, hoses and clamps.
38. Install the thermostat housing cover, hose and clamps. Refer to section 4.5.3.
39. Install the exhaust manifold and connect the exhaust piping. 7.2.3.
40. Fill the cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.2.
41. Fill the lubricating system. Refer to section 13.5.1.
42. Before starting the engine, perform an engine tune-up. 12.

1.4 VALVE AND INJECTOR OPERATING MECHANISM
Three rocker arms are provided for each cylinder. Two outer arms operate the exhaust valves,
and a center arm operates the fuel injector.
Each set of three rocker arms pivots on a shaft supported by two brackets. A single bolt secures
each bracket to the top of the cylinder head. See Figure 1-37. Removing the two bracket bolts
allows the rocker arm assembly to be raised, providing easy access to the fuel injector and the
exhaust valve springs.
1. Exhaust Valve 5. Cam Follower

2. Valve Bridge 6. Camshaft
3. Rocker Arm 7. Fuel injector
4. Push Rods 8. Bracket Retainer Cam Follower
Figure 1-37 Valve and Injector Operating Mechanism
The injector rocker arm (center arm of the group) is slightly different from the exhaust valve
rocker arms. The boss for the shaft on the left and right-hand valve rocker arms is longer on
one side. The extended boss of each valve rocker arm must face toward the injector rocker
arm. The exhaust valve rocker arms also have a flat spot beneath the rocker shaft hole to ensure
the valve bridge is cleared.
New injector rocker arm assemblies have an increased cross-sectional area between the pivot
axis and pallet and the pivot axis and clevis. The former and current rocker arm assemblies are
interchangeable and can be mixed in an engine. Only the new assemblies will be serviced.
The camshaft, with cam followers and short push rods extending through the cylinder, operates
the rocker arms.

A shot peened injector rocker arm assembly is used on engines equipped with 115 mm (9215)
or larger fuel injectors. A yellow stripe at the top of the arm and a shot peened stress relief cut
identifies these arms.
A new injector rocker arm assembly is used on 6V coach engine models 8067-3421 and
8067-4423, effective with unit number 6VF015319. The new assembly has a larger outer
diameter clevis pin bushing to improve lubrication and increase part life. The entire clevis end is
prelubricated to minimize the chance of bushing damage at initial engine start up.
The new injector rocker arm assembly (identified by a blue or bright pink paint stripe on the back)
and the former assembly (identified by an orange paint stripe) are completely interchangeable
and may be mixed in an engine. Since bushing life is extended on the current assembly, DDC
recommends replacing the former assembly with the current assembly on 6V coach engine models
8067-3421 and 8067-4423 at overhaul, or whenever practical.
Each cam follower operates in a cylinder head bore. A cam follower retainer bracket for each
set of three followers holds the cam followers in place and aligns the cam follower rollers with
the camshaft lobes.
A coil spring, located inside each cam follower, maintains a predetermined load on the cam
follower to ensure constant cam roller to camshaft lobe contact.

Oil from a longitudinal oil passage on the camshaft side of the cylinder head lubricates the valve
and injector operating mechanism. Oil from this passage flows through drilled passages in the
rocker shaft bracket bolts to the passages in the rocker arm shaft, lubricating the rocker arms.
See Figure 1-38.
1. Cylinder Head Oil Passage 5. Rocker Shaft

2. Oil Passages 6. Rocker Arm
3. Exhaust Valve 7. Push Rod
4. Bolt 8. Cam Follower
Figure 1-38 Location of Valve Operating Mechanism
Overflow oil from the rocker arms lubricates the exhaust valves, valve bridges, and cam followers.
The oil drains from the top deck of the cylinder head, through oil holes in the cam followers, into
the camshaft pockets in the cylinder block, and returns to the oil pan.

1.4.1 Repair or Replacement of Valve and Injector Operating Mechanism

See Figure 1-39.
Figure 1-39 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Valve and Injector

Operating Mechanism

1.4.2 Removal of Rocker Arm and Rocker Shaft
Remove the rocker arm and shaft as follows:

1. Clean and remove the valve rocker cover. Refer to section 1.6.2. Discard the gasket.
2. Turn the crankshaft, or crank the engine with the starting motor, to bring the injector
and valve rocker arms in line horizontally.
NOTE:
Do not bar the crankshaft in a left-hand direction with a wrench or barring tool on the
crankshaft bolt. This could loosen the bolt.
NOTICE:
When removing the rocker arm shaft, fold the three rocker arms
back. Do not force the rocker arms all the way back with the shaft
in place. This may impose a load that could bend the push rods.
3. Remove the two bolts securing the rocker arm shaft brackets to the cylinder head. Remove
the brackets and shaft.
4. Loosen the locknuts at the upper ends of the push rods, next to the clevises, and unscrew
the rocker arms from the push rods. If the rocker arms and shafts from two or more
cylinders are to be removed, tag them so they may be installed in their original positions.
1.4.3 Removal of Cam Follower and Push Rod (Cylinder Head on

Engine)
Remove a push rod, spring, spring seats, and cam follower from the top of the cylinder head
as follows:
NOTE:
When removing the cam followers and associated parts, tag them so they may be
installed in their original location.
1. Remove the rocker arm shaft and brackets.

2. Loosen the locknut, and unscrew the rocker arm from the push rod.
3. Remove the locknut.
4. With the lower end of the tool resting on the upper spring seat, install remover (J 3092-01),
a flat washer, and the locknut on the push rod.
5. Thread the nut down to compress the spring. Refer to section 1.4.4.1.

EYE INJURY
To avoid injury from flying parts when working with
components under spring tension, wear adequate eye
protection (face shield or safety goggles).
6. Remove the spring seat retainer from the groove in the cylinder head. See Figure 1-40.
1. Retainer 3. Remover
2. Washer
Figure 1-40 Removing Push Rod from Upper Side of Cylinder Head using
Tool J 3092-01
7. Unscrew the locknut to release the spring. Remove the nut, flat washer, and tool from
the push rod.
8. Pull the push rod, spring, spring seats, and cam followers out of the cylinder head.

1.4.4 Removal of Cam Follower and Push Rod (Cylinder Head

Removed)
Remove a cam follower and push rod with the cylinder head removed as follows:
NOTE:
When removing the cam followers and associated parts, tag them so they may be
installed in their original location.
1. Rest the cylinder head on its side, and remove the cam follower guide. See Figure 1-41.
1. Bolt 4. Cam Follower Bore

2. Washer 5. Cam Follower
3. Cam Follower Retainer Bracket
Figure 1-41 Cam Followers and Guide

2. Pull the cam follower out of the cylinder head.

3. Remove the fuel pipes from the injector and the fuel connectors.
NOTE:
Immediately after removing the fuel pipes, cover the injector fuel inlet and outlet openings
with shipping caps to prevent dirt or foreign material from entering.
4. Loosen the push rod locknut, and unscrew the push rod from the rocker arm clevis.
5. Pull the push rod and spring assembly from the bottom of the cylinder head.
6. Remove the push rod locknut, spring, and spring seats from the push rod. Refer to section
1.4.4.1.
NOTE:
When replacing the cylinder head, remove the spring retainers, and install them in the
new head
1.4.4.1 Cleaning of Valve and Injector Operating Mechanism
Prior to disassembly, clean the valve and injector operating mechanism as follows:
FIRE
refueling.
1. Wash the rocker arms, shaft, brackets, and bolts with clean fuel oil.
2. Use a small wire to clean the drilled oil passages in the rocker arms and rocker shaft bolts.
EYE INJURY
3. Dry the parts with compressed air.

NOTICE:
Do not use fuel oil to clean the cam followers. Fuel oil working its
way between the cam roller bushing and pin may cause scoring
on initial engine start-up.
FIRE
refueling.
4. Wash the cam followers with lubricating oil or Cindol® 1705, and wipe them dry.
FIRE
refueling.
5. Wash the push rods, springs, and spring seats with clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
6. Dry with compressed air.
1.4.5 Disassembly of Cam Follower
Using tool set J 33421-A, disassemble the cam follower as follows:

1. Pull the adjustable sliding support out against its stop. See Figure 1-42.
1. Assembly Adaptor for Flat Legs 7. Pressing Ram

2. Support Plate 8. Bronze Bushing
3. Roller Stop Screw 9. Upper Follower Leg
4. Clevis Pin 10. Spring Loaded Guided Pin
5. Connecting Link 11. Cam Follower
6. Handle 12. Adjustable Sliding Support
Figure 1-42 Removing or Installing Cam Follower Roller using Tool Set
J 33421-A
2. Place the cam follower, with follower pin resting on the spring-loaded guide pin, in the
fixture.
3. Push the follower down until the lower leg engages the slot in the support plate. This
supports the roller that supports the upper follower leg.

4. Push the follower in until it contacts the roller stop screw. This should align the roller
pin with the pressing ram.
5. Lower the handle to put pressure on the roller pin.
6. Push the adjustable sliding support in until there is resistance. This supports the lower
follower leg.
7. Press the pin from the cam follower.
1.4.5.1 Inspection of Valve and Injector Mechanism
Inspect the valve and injector operating mechanism as follows:

1. Visually inspect the rocker arm shaft and rocker arm bushings for wear.
[a] If worn, replace the rocker arm shaft and rocker arm bushings.
[b] If no wear is evident, continue inspection.
2. Check shaft-to-bushing clearances.
[a] If maximum shaft to bushing clearance exceeds 0.10 mm (0.004 in.), replace the
shaft and bushings.
[b] If no wear is indicated, continue with inspection.
3. Visually inspect the rocker arms for galling or wear on the pallets (valve or injector
contact surfaces).
NOTICE:
To avoid damage to the rocker arm, use care when surface
grinding to avoid overheating the rocker arm.
[a] If worn, the surface may be refaced up to a maximum of 0.25 mm (0.010 in.).
NOTE:
Maintain the radius and finish as close to the original surface as possible.
[b] Replace if worn beyond the maximum allowance.

[c] If no wear is evident, continue with inspection.
4. Visually inspect the valve bridges for wear.
[a] If excessively worn, replace the valve bridges.
[b] If no wear is evident, continue with inspection.
5. Inspect the rocker arm shaft brackets for cracks.
[a] If cracked, replace the rocker arm shaft.
[b] If no cracks are present, continue with inspection.

1.4.5.2 Inspection of Cam Follower and Parts
Inspect the cam follower and its related parts as follows:
NOTE:
When any appreciable change in injector timing or exhaust valve clearance occurs
during engine operation, remove the cam followers and their related parts, and inspect
them for excessive wear. A change in injector timing or valve clearance can usually be
detected by excessive noise at idle speed.
1. Examine the cam follower rollers for scoring, pitting, or flat spots. The rollers must
turn freely on their pins.
[a] If scored, pitted, or flat, or the rollers do not turn freely, replace the cam follower
rollers. Refer to section 1.4.6.
[b] If none of these conditions exist, continue with the inspection.
2. Measure the total diametric clearance and side clearance. See Figure 1-43.
Figure 1-43 Cam Roller Clearance
[a] If the clearances exceed those specified, install a new roller and pin. Refer to section
1.4.6.
[b] If clearances are within the specified limits, continue with inspection.
3. Inspect the camshaft lobes for scoring, pitting, or flat spots.
[a] If scored, pitted, or flat, replace the camshaft. Refer to section1.26.6.
[b] If no scoring, pitting, or flat spots are detected, continue with the inspection.

4. Inspect the cam follower inner bore for spring contact.

[a] If spring contact is present, replace the follower. Refer to section 1.4.6.
[b] If the spring is not contacting the inner bore, continue inspection.
5. Visually inspect the push rods and spring seats for wear or damage.
[a] If worn or damaged, replace the push rod or spring seats. Refer to section 1.4.8, step 5.
NOTE:
If the push rod requires replacement, inspect the rocker arm for wear or cracks.
[b] If the push rod and spring seats are not worn or damaged, continue with inspection.
6. Visually inspect the push rod for breaks or bends.
[a] If the push rod is broken or bent, replace the cam follower. Refer to section 1.4.6.
[b] If the push rod is not broken or bent, continue with inspection.
7. Visually inspect the cam follower springs for wear or damage.
[a] If worn or damaged, replace the cam follower springs. Refer to section 1.4.6.
[b] If there is no damage or wear, continue with inspection.
8. Check the spring load with spring tester J 22738-02.

[a] When a load of less than 113.25 Kg (250 lbs.) will compress the spring to a length of
2.1406 in., it should be replaced. See Figure 1-44. Refer to section 1.4.6.
Figure 1-44 Testing Cam Follower Spring with Tool J 22738-02
[b] If the spring withstands loads over 113.25 Kg (250 lbs.), it may be reused.
1.4.5.3 Inspection of Cam Follower-to-Bore Clearance
Inspect the cam follower-to-bore clearance as follows:

1. Measure the cam follower bores in the cylinder head with a telescope gage and
micrometer. Record the readings.
2. Measure the diameter of the cam followers with a micrometer. Record the readings.
3. Compare the follower and bore readings to determine the cam follower-to-bore clearances.
Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for specifications.

[a] If worn beyond specifications, replace the cam follower. Refer to section 1.4.7.
[b] If clearances are within specifications, the cam follower may be reused.
1.4.5.4 Test Cam Roller and Pin Load
Whenever a cam follower is rebuilt, the cam roller and pin must be tested as follows:
NOTE:
Use load test cell J 33421-A to test the cam roller.
1. Install the load cell on the service fixture pressing ram.

2. Push spring-loaded guide pin J 33421-12 (found in set J 33421-A) down and insert fork
J 33421-A. See Figure 1-45.
1. Guide Pin 4. Load Cell

2. Ram 5. Adjustable Support
3. White Line 6. Guide Pin Retaining Fork
Figure 1-45 Testing Roller Pin on Load Test Cell J 33421-A
3. Pull support slide J 33421-A down.

4. Install cam follower, and lower the handle, putting slight pressure on the roller pin.

5. Push support J 33421-A until there is resistance.
NOTE:
Do not continue downward force after the white line disappears. This will cause the load
cell to bottom out and eventually push out the pin. Do not use the load cell for roller
installation or removal.
6. Apply pressure on the handle until the white line on the load cell disappears from view.
The pin must sustain an axial force of 135.9 Kg (300 lbs.) without pushing out.
7. If it fails the test, replace the pin. Refer to section 1.4.6.
1.4.6 Assembly of Cam Follower
Assemble the cam follower as follows:

1. Before installing the new roller and pin, remove the preservative. Refer to section 1.4.4.1
for cleaning instructions.
2. Pull the adjustable sliding support out.
3. Position the cam follower, with follower pin resting on the spring-loaded guide pin, in
the fixture.
4. Align the pin over the follower leg.
5. Lower handle, and place pressure on the pin.
NOTE:
When assembling the cam follower with flats on the outside of the legs, push adaptor
J 33421-3 (found in setJ 33421-A) onto the pressing ram to the press limit depth. When
pressing the pin into the follower with rounded legs, use adaptor J 33421-22 (found in set
J 33421-A). Both adaptors have a spring-loaded plunger in the set screw that does not
normally require any adjustment.
6. To support the lower follower leg, lower handle, and push the adjustable sliding support in
until there is resistance.
7. Press the pin into place.
8. Remove the cam follower from the fixture.
9. Check the side clearance. The clearance must be 0.28-0.58 mm (0.011-0.023 in.).
10. If cylinder head is installed, refer to section 1.4.6.1, and if cylinder head is removed,
refer to section 1.4.6.2.
1.4.6.1 Cleaning Cam Follower and Push Rod (Cylinder Head Installed)
Perform the following procedure for cleaning the cam follower and push rod:

PERSONAL INJURY
Before cam followers are installed, immerse them in clean Cindol® 1705 as follows:
1. Heat the Cindol 1705 in a small pail with a screen insert. Heat to 38-52°C (100-125°F).
NOTE:
The screen will prevent the cam followers from touching the bottom of the pan and
avoid contamination.
2. Rotate the cam rollers during the soaking period to purge any air from the bushing-roller
area.
3. Soak for at least one hour to ensure initial cam roller pin and bushing lubrication.
NOTE:
Since it is less viscous than engine oil, heated Cindol oil flows freely between the cam
roller bushing and pin. After the cam followers are removed from the heated Cindol 1705,
the trapped air cooling in the bushing and pin area will pull the lubricant into the cavity.
4. Refer to section 1.4.6.3 for inspection.
1.4.6.2 Cleaning Cam Follower and Push Rod (Cylinder Head Removed)
Perform the following procedure for cleaning the cam follower and push rod:
PERSONAL INJURY
Immerse cam followers in clean Cindol 1705 as follows:

1. Heat the Cindol 1705 in a small pail with a screen insert. Heat to 38-52°C (100-125°F).
NOTE:
The screen will prevent the cam followers from touching the bottom of the pan and
avoid contamination.

2. Rotate the cam rollers during the soaking period to purge any air from the bushing-roller
area.
3. Soak for at least one hour to ensure initial cam roller pin and bushing lubrication.
NOTE:
Since it is less viscous than engine oil, heated Cindol oil flows freely between the cam
roller bushing and pin. After the cam followers are removed from the heated Cindol 1705,
the trapped air cooling in the bushing and pin area will pull the lubricant into the cavity.
4. Refer to section 1.4.6.3 for inspection.
1.4.6.3 Inspection of Cam Followers and Push Rod
Prior to installing a cam follower and push rod, the push rod seating within the cam follower body
must first be inspected to ensure the proper loading if the cam follower is being realized. Inspect
the push rod seating using the following procedure:
1. Apply bluing to the cam follower end of push rod and seat it into the cam follower body.
2. Check the "non-contact" area of the push rod seat. The "non-contact" area in the center
must be a minimum of 3.05 mm (0.120 in.) diameter, and the contact area must extend to
the outer edge of the push rod sphere. See Figure 1-46.
1. Push Rod 2. Cam Follower
Figure 1-46 Push Rod and Cam Follower Area

[a] If the push rod sphere meets both criteria, then it is a serviceable part. If cylinder head
is installed, refer to section 1.4.7. If cylinder head is removed, refer to section 1.4.8.

[b] If push rod fails either criteria, a new push rod must be used. If cylinder head is
installed, refer to section 1.4.7. If cylinder head is removed, refer to section 1.4.8.
NOTE:
Install reusable cam followers and push rods in their original locations. See Figure 1-47.
1. Bolt 9. Locknut
2. Lock Washer 10. Spring Retainer
3. Cam Follower Guide 11. Upper Spring Seat
4. Valve 12. Valve Spring
5. Bracket 13. Lower Spring Seat
6. Bracket Bolt 14. Push Rod
7. Rocker Arm Shaft 15. Cam Follower
8. Rocker Arms 16. Fuel Injector
Figure 1-47 Valve and Injector Operating Mechanism

1.4.7 Installation of Cam Followers and Push Rods (Cylinder Head

Installed)
Install the cam followers and push rods as follows. See Figure 1-48:
1. Cam Follower Bolt 9. Locknut

2. Washer 10. Spring Retainer
4. Cylinder Head Assembly 12. Spring
5. Rocker Arms 13. Lower Spring Seat
6. Rocker Arm Shaft Bracket 14. Push Rod
7. Shaft Bolt 15. Cam Follower
8. Rocker Arm Shaft
Figure 1-48 Cam Follower and Push Rod Installation

1. With the oil hole in the cam follower directed away from the exhaust valves, slide the cam
follower into position in the cylinder head.
2. Assemble the serrated lower spring seat, spring, and upper spring seat on the push rod.
3. Place a flat washer over the upper spring seat, and start the locknut on the push rod.
4. Place tool J 3092-01 on the push rod between the washer and the upper spring seat, and
place the push rod assembly in the cam follower.
5. Thread the locknut on the push rod until the spring is compressed sufficiently to permit
spring retainer installation.
6. Install the retainer, with the tangs facing the notch, in the cylinder head.
7. Remove the nut, flat washer, and tool.
8. Install the locknut, and thread it is far as possible on the push rod. Refer to section 1.4.9.
1.4.8 Installation of Cam Followers and Push Rod — Cylinder Head

Removed
Install the cam followers and push rods as follows:

1. Assemble the serrated lower spring seat, spring, upper spring seat, and locknut on the
push rod.
2. With the spring retainer in place in the cylinder head, slide the push rod assembly in
position from the bottom of the head.
3. With the oil hole directed away from the exhaust valves, slide the cam follower in position
from the bottom of the head.
4. Attach the follower guide to the cylinder head to hold the group of three cam followers
in place.
NOTE:
The correct bolt must be used. The hardened bolt is necessary to obtain the proper
torque and to withstand the stress imposed on it during engine operation.

5. Tighten the guide bolts to 16-20 N·m (12-15 lb·ft) torque. There should be at least
0.13 mm (0.005 in.) clearance between the cam follower legs and the cam follower
guide. See Figure 1-49.
1. Cam Follower Guide 3. Feeler Gages

2. Cam Follower
Figure 1-49 Checking Cam Follower-to-Guide Clearance

6. If there is insufficient clearance, loosen the guide bolts slightly, and tap each corner of the
guide with a brass rod. See Figure 1-50.
1. Cam Follower Guide 3. Brass Rod

2. Cam Follower Bolt
Figure 1-50 Adjusting Cam Follower Guide
7. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Refer to section 1.4.9.
1.4.9 Installation of Rocker Arm and Rocker Shaft
Install rocker arms and shaft as follows:
NOTE:
When replacing the injector rocker arm shaft assemblies on 6V and 8V-92TA coach
engines, only the new cross-drilled rocker arm shaft assembly should be used. The
injector rocker arm shaft assemblies can be mixed in the same coach engine.
1. Thread each rocker arm on its push rod until the end of the push rod is flush with or above
the inner side of the clevis yoke. See Figure 1-51. This will provide sufficient initial

clearance between the exhaust valve and the piston when the crankshaft is turned during
the valve clearance adjustment procedure.
1. Cam Follower Bolt 9. Locknut

2. Washer 10. Spring Retainer
4. Cylinder Head Assembly 12. Spring
5. Rocker Arms 13. Lower Spring Set
6. Rocker Arm Shaft Bracket 14. Push Rod
7. Shaft Bolt 15. Cam Follower
8. Rocker Arm Shaft
Figure 1-51 Cam Follower and Push Rod Installation
2. Install the cylinder head (if removed) on the engine. Refer to section 1.3.5.

3. Lubricate the valve bridge guides with sulphurized oil, and position the valve bridges
on the guides.
4. Adjust the valve bridges. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
5. Install the fuel injectors, if removed.
FIRE
refueling.
6. Apply clean engine oil to the rocker arms. Place a bracket over each end of the shaft, with
the finished face of the bracket next to the rocker arm.
7. Insert the rocker arm bracket bolts through the brackets and the shaft.
8. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
specifications.
NOTICE:
Do not bend the fuel pipes, and do not exceed the specified
torque. Excessive tightening will twist or fracture the flared ends
of the fuel pipes and results in leaks. Lubricating oil diluted by
fuel oil can cause serious damage to the engine bearings.
9. Align the fuel pipes, and connect them to the injectors and the fuel connectors.
NOTICE:
Detroit Diesel recommends that the original fuel pipes not
be reused. New flared end fuel pipes should be installed.
When installing flared end fuel pipes, use fuel pipe nut wrench
J 8932-01 (from set J 8932-B and "clicker" type torque wrench
J 24405 (calibrated in inch-pounds) to apply proper torque
and avoid damaging the fuel pipes. Torque specifications are
listed in Table 1-2. Fuel leakage from damaged or improperly

NOTICE:
installed fuel pipes can cause lube oil dilution, that may result
in serious engine damage.
Fuel Pipe Usage Torque

Endurion-Coated 14.69 N·m (130 lb·in.)
*Jake Brake 13.6 N·m (120 lb·in.)
Loading Limiting Devices 18.3 N·m (160 lb·in.)
* Not serviced. Available from Jacobs Vehicle Systems™

11. Adjust the exhaust valve clearance, and time the injectors. Refer to section 12.2 and
refer to section12.3.
12. If necessary, perform an engine tune-up. Refer to section 12.1.

1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
Four exhaust valves are provided for each cylinder. See Figure 1-52. The valve heads are heat
treated and ground to the proper seat angle and diameter. The valve stems are ground to size and
hardened at the end that contacts the valve bridge.
1. Locknut 4. Exhaust Valve

2. Adjusting Screw 5. Bridge Guide
3. Valve Bridge
Figure 1-52 Location of Exhaust Valves

The exhaust valve stems are contained within exhaust valve guides, that are placed into the
cylinder head. Exhaust valve seat inserts, pressed into the cylinder head, permit accurate exhaust
valve seating under various temperatures and prolong cylinder head life. See Figure 1-53. Valve
spring caps and tapered two-piece valve locks hold the exhaust valve springs in place.
1. Cylinder Head Oil Passage 7. Spring Seat

2. Oil Passages 8. Cam Follower
3. Bolt 9. Valve Seat Insert
4. Rocker Shaft 10. Exhaust Valve
5. Valve Keepers 11. Valve Guide
6. Spring Cap 12. Valve Spring
Figure 1-53 Assembly of Exhaust Valves and Guides
Excess oil from the rocker arms lubricates the exhaust valve stems. Airflow from the blower cools
the valves each time the air inlet ports are uncovered.

1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
Proper engine maintenance and operation is important to long valve life. Normal engine operating
temperature should be maintained. Refer to section 11.5. Low operating temperatures (due to
extended idling periods or light engine loads) result in incomplete combustion, lubricating oil
sludge, excessive carbon deposits, and fuel lacquer formations on the valves and related parts.
Unsuitable fuels may cause deposits on the valves, especially when operating at low temperatures.
When carbon deposits build up around the valve stems, especially the portion of the stem that
operates in the valve guide, the valves will stick and will not be able to seat properly, resulting in
pitted, burned valves, burned valve seats and compression loss.
To avoid sludge accumulation, recommended lubricating oil and oil filters should be used and
maintenance procedures should be followed. Refer to section 5.2 and refer to section 13.5.
As a result of valve stems that have been scored from foreign matter in the lubricating oil,
antifreeze (glycol) leaking into the lubricating oil, and bent or worn valve guides; the piston may
strike the sticking valves.
Injector timing and valve clearance must be accurately adjusted and periodically checked.
Improperly timed injectors or tightly adjusted valves will adversely affect combustion.
1.5.1 Repair or Replacement of Exhaust Valves

See Figure 1-54.

Figure 1-54 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Exhaust Valves
1.5.2 Removal of Exhaust Valve Spring (Cylinder Head Installed)
Exhaust valve springs may be removed without removing the cylinder head from the engine.
Proceed as follows:

1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
1. Remove and clean the valve rocker cover. Discard the gasket.
PERSONAL INJURY
engine, remove loose items of clothing and jewelry. Tie
back or contain long hair that could be caught in any
moving part causing injury.
NOTE:
When using a wrench on the crankshaft bolt at the front of the engine, do not turn the
crankshaft to the left. The bolt could be loosened.
2. Crank the engine over to bring the valve and injector rocker arms horizontally in line.
NOTE:
Once Tool J 22582 is bolted onto the flywheel housing, the engine can be hand rotated
with a 3/4 in. drive and ratchet. Tool J 22582 bolts to the flywheel housing in the same
position as the engine starter.
3. Disconnect and remove the fuel pipes from the injector and the fuel connectors.
NOTE:
To prevent dirt or other foreign material from entering the injector, cover each injector
opening with a shipping cap immediately after removing the fuel pipes.
4. Remove the two bolts holding the rocker arm shaft brackets to the cylinder head.
5. Remove the brackets and shaft.
6. Remove the exhaust valve bridge.
7. Remove the cylinder block air box cover to observe piston travel. Refer to section
8. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at the top of its stroke.

9. Thread the valve spring compressor adaptor J 7455-7 from set J 7455-A into the rocker
arm bracket bolt in the cylinder head. See Figure 1-55.
1. Cylinder Head Assembly 3. Rocker Arm Assemblies

2. Exhaust Valve Spring
Figure 1-55 Removing Exhaust Valve Spring with Tool J 7455-A
10. Compress the valve spring, and remove the two-piece tapered valve lock.
11. Release the tool, and remove the spring cap, valve spring, and spring seat.

1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
1.5.3 Removal of Exhaust Valve and Valve Spring (Cylinder Head

Removed)
To remove exhaust valves and valve springs, the cylinder head must be removed. Refer to section
1.3.2. Proceed as follows:
NOTE:
Do not damage or scratch the critical sealing area around the intermediate water nozzles.
1. Support the cylinder head on 2 in. thick wood blocks to keep the cam followers clear
of the bench.
2. Remove the fuel pipes from the injector and the fuel connectors.
NOTE:
To prevent dirt or other foreign material from entering the injector, cover each injector
opening with a shipping cap immediately after removing the fuel pipes.
3. Remove the two bolts holding the rocker arm shaft brackets to the cylinder head.
4. Remove the brackets from the shaft.
5. Remove the fuel injectors. Refer to section 2.2.2.
6. Remove the exhaust valve bridge guides.
7. Place a block of wood under the cylinder head to support the exhaust valves.

8. Thread the valve spring compressor adaptor J 7455-7 from set J 7455-A into the rocker
arm bracket bolt in the cylinder head. See Figure 1-56.
1. Cylinder Head Assembly 3. Rocker Arm Assemblies

2. Exhaust Valve Spring
Figure 1-56 Removing Exhaust Valve Spring with Tool J 7455-A
9. Compress the valve spring, and remove the two-piece tapered valve lock.
10. Release the tool, and remove the spring cap, valve spring, and spring seat.
11. Turn the cylinder head over, without letting the valves fall out of the head.

1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
12. If the valves will be reused, number each valve to facilitate installation in the same
location.
NOTE:
To improve resistance to "wet stacking," Detroit Diesel recommends installing exhaust
valve stem seals on industrial engines whenever a cylinder head is removed.
13. Remove the valves from the cylinder head.

14. Remove the cam followers and push rod assemblies. Refer to section 1.4.3.
1.5.4 Removal of Exhaust Valve Guide
Remove the exhaust valve guide as follows:

1. Remove and discard the valve guide oil seal, if used.
2. Support the cylinder head, bottom side up, on 2 in. thick wood blocks.

3. Drive the valve guide out of the cylinder head with tool J 6569-A. See Figure 1-57.
Figure 1-57 Removing Exhaust Valve Guide using Tool J 6569-A
1.5.5 Removal of Exhaust Valve Bridge Guide
Remove the press-fit valve bridge guide as follows:

1. File or grind two diametrically opposite notches 1/16 in. deep in the side of the guide,
approximately 1-1/4-1-1/2 in. from the upper end.

1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
2. Using tool set J 7091-01, place spacer J 7091-03 over the guide. See Figure 1-58.
1. Grind Notches 3. Removing Guide

2. Install Removing Tools
Figure 1-58 Removing Press-Fit Exhaust Valve Bridge Guide
3. Slide the guide remover J 7091-5 from set J 7091-01 over the guide, and align the set
screws with the notches in the guide.
4. Tighten the set screws to secure the tool.
5. Place spacer J 7091-4 from set J 7091-01 over the guide remover.
6. Thread the nut on the guide remover, and turn it clockwise to withdraw the guide from
the cylinder head.
To remove a broken valve bridge guide, proceed as follows:
1. Drill a hole approximately 1/2 in. deep in the end of the guide with a No. 3 (0.2130
in.) drill.
2. Tap the guide with a 1/4 in.-28 bottoming tap.
3. Thread remover J 7453 into the guide.
4. Attach slide hammer J 6471-02 to the remover tool. One or two sharp blows with the
puller weight will remove the broken guide. See Figure 1-59.

1. Center Punch 4. Slide Hammer

2. No. 3 Tap Drill 5. Remover Tool
3. Bottoming Tap 1/4 in.-28
Figure 1-59 Removing Broken Exhaust Valve Bridge Guide Tool J 7453 and
Slide Hammer J 6471-02

1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
1.5.6 Removal of Exhaust Valve Seat Insert
Remove the exhaust valve seat insert as follows:

1. Use the cam operated exhaust valve seat insert puller and collet from set J 23479-E and
collet. See Figure 1-60.
1. Exhaust Valve Seat Insert 2. Cylinder Head Assembly
Figure 1-60 Exhaust Valve Seat Insert Removal
2. Hold handle in lax position, and install collet portion into valve seat insert.
3. While holding receiver body down and square with cylinder head, pull handle down
until resistance is felt and hold.

4. While holding puller handle down with one hand, grasp the collet handle with other hand
and rotate back and forth several times.
NOTE:
Rotate cam only in direction of arrow.
5. Transfer grasp from collet to receiver body and continue pulling handle down until insert
is removed. Refer to section 1.5.6.1.
1.5.6.1 Cleaning of Exhaust Valve
Prior to inspection, clean the exhaust valve as follows:
FIRE
refueling.
1. Clean the springs with fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
2. Dry springs with compressed air.
FIRE
refueling.
3. Remove carbon from the valve stems, and wash the valves with fuel oil.

1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
4. Clean the inside diameter of the valve guides with brush J 5437. See Figure 1-61. This
brush will remove all gum or carbon deposits from the guides, including the spiral grooves.
1. Exhaust Valve Guide
Figure 1-61 Cleaning Exhaust Valve Guide with Tool J 5437
PERSONAL INJURY
5. Clean the valve insert counterbore in the cylinder head with Tech Solv 340 or comparable
solvent.
6. Wash the valve seat insert with the same solvent.

EYE INJURY
7. Dry both the counterbore and the insert with compressed air.
1.5.6.2 Inspection of Exhaust Valve
Inspect the exhaust valve as follows:

1. Visually inspect the valve seats for pitting.
[a] If pitted, replace the valve seats.
[b] If no pitting is evident, continue with inspection.
2. Ensure valve stems move freely within the valve guides.
[a] If they do not move freely, replace the valve stems. Refer to section 1.5.10.
[b] If valve stems move freely within the valve guides, continue with inspection.
3. Check valve clearance. Refer to section 12.2.
[a] If clearance is not within specifications, replace the valve stems.
[b] If the clearance is within specified limits, continue inspection.
4. Visually inspect the springs for pitting or fractures.
[a] If the springs are pitted or fractured, replace them. Refer to section 1.5.10.
[b] If the springs are not pitted or fractured, proceed with inspection.

1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
5. Test the spring load with spring tester J 22738-02. See Figure 1-62.
Figure 1-62 Testing Cam Follower Spring with Tool J 22738-02
[a] Replace the spring when a load of less than 11.325 Kg (25 pounds) will compress it
to 45.7 mm (1.80 in.).
[b] If the spring withstands 11.325 Kg (25 pounds), continue the inspection.
6. Visually inspect the valve spring seats and caps for wear.
[a] If worn, replace with new parts.
[b] If no wear is present, continue inspection.
7. Inspect the valve seat insert for excessive wear, pitting, or cracking.
[a] If excessively worn, pitted, or cracked, the valve seat insert must be replaced.
[b] If not excessively worn, pitted, or cracked, proceed with inspection.

8. Inspect the valve seat insert counterbore concentricity, flatness and cracks.
[a] If counterbores have a diameter of 36.58-36.60 mm (1.440-1.441 in.), and a depth of
8.623-8.903 mm (0.3395-0.3505 in.), continue inspection.
NOTE:
The counterbores must be concentric with the valve guides within 0.002 in. total indicator
reading.
[b] If counterbores are not within specifications, use a valve seat insert which is 0.010 in.
oversize on the outside diameter. Refer to section 1.5.7.
9. Inspect the valve seat insert for improper seat angle.
[a] If the valve seating face is not angled at 30 degrees or the insert is not angled at
31 degrees, the valve seat insert may be refaced. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
[b] If the valve seat insert has already been ground to the extent that additional grinding
would cause the grinding wheel to contact the cylinder head, install a new insert.
[c] If the valve seating face angle is within specifications, proceed with inspection.
10. Examine the contact surfaces of the exhaust valve bridge guides, bridges, and adjusting
screws for wear and galling.
[a] If excessively worn or galled, replace parts.
[b] If not excessively worn or galled, continue inspection.
11. Inspect the valve stems for scratches and scuff marks.
[a] If scratched or scuffed, reface the valve stems.
[b] If excessively scratched or scuffed, replace the valve stems.
[c] If not scratched or scuffed, continue inspection.
12. Visually inspect the valve faces for ridges, cracks, or pitting.
[a] If ridged or pitted, the valve face may be reground. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
[b] If excessively ridged, or pitted, or if the valve face is cracked, install a new valve.
[c] If no ridges, cracks, or pits are evident, continue inspection.
13. Inspect for engine oil running down the exhaust valve stem into the exhaust chamber.
[a] If engine oil is detected, replace the valve guide seals. If valve guide oil seals were
not previously in use, install them. Refer to section 1.5.9.
[b] If no engine oil is found, continue inspection.
14. Visually inspect the valve heads for warpage.
[a] If the valve heads are warped, replace the valves. Refer to section 1.5.10.

1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
[b] If the valve heads are not warped, continue inspection.

15. Visually inspect the valve guides for fractures, chipping, scoring, or excessive wear.
[a] If fractured, chipped, scored, or excessively worn, replace the valve guides.
[b] If not fractured, chipped, scored, or excessively worn, proceed with inspection.
16. Measure valve guide clearances.
[a] Measure the inside diameter of the valve guide with a pin gage or micrometer, and
record the readings.
[b] Measure the outside diameter of the valve stems with a micrometer, and record the
readings. Proceed to step 17.
17. Compare the readings to obtain the valve-to-guide clearance.
[a] If the clearance exceeds 0.13 mm (0.005 in.), replace the valve guides.
[b] If the valve guide clearances do not exceed 0.13 mm (0.005 in.), proceed to
installation. Refer to section 1.5.7.
1.5.7 Installation of Exhaust Valve Seat Insert
Install exhaust valve seat insert as follows:

1. Immerse the cylinder head for at least 30 minutes in 82-93°C (180-200°F) water.
2. Place the cylinder head, bottom side up, on a bench.
NOTICE:
To prevent part damage and ease installation, install the room
temperature insert in the cylinder head while the head is still hot.
3. Place an insert in the counterbore, valve seat side up.

4. Drive the insert in place with installer J 24357 until it seats solidly in the cylinder head.
5. Grind the valve seat insert and check it for concentricity in relation to the valve guide.
1.5.8 Installation of Exhaust Valve Bridge Guide
Install the exhaust valve bridge guide as follows:

1. Apply Permatex® No. 1 sealant, or equivalent, to the valve bridge guide.
2. Start the guide into the cylinder head.
3. Place the installer J 7482 over the guide, and drive it into place. The installer will position
the guide to the correct height.

1.5.9 Installation of Exhaust Valve Guide
Install the exhaust valve guide as follows:

1. Place the cylinder head right side up on an arbor press.
2. Insert the internally threaded end of the valve guide in the valve guide installing tool
J 21520. See Figure 1-63.
1. Valve Guide
Figure 1-63 Installing Valve Guide with Tool J 21520
3. Position the valve guide squarely in the cylinder head bore, and press the installing tool
J 21520 gently to start the guide.
NOTICE:
Do not use the valve guides to turn the cylinder head over or to
pick up the cylinder head. Failure to follow proper procedures
may damage valve guides.
4. Press the guide in until the tool contacts the cylinder head. The tool installs the guide to
17.02-8.03 mm (0.670-0.710 in.) above the top of the cylinder head.
NOTE:
Service replacement valve guides are completely finish reamed. Do not ream after
installation.
5. Install a new valve guide oil seal. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
1.5.10 Installation of Exhaust Valve and Valve Spring (Cylinder Head

Removed)
Install the exhaust valves and valve springs as follows:

1. Clean the valve guides. See Figure 1-64.
1. Exhaust Valve 2. Valve Guide
Figure 1-64 Cleaned Valve Guide and Lubricated Exhaust Valve
USED ENGINE OIL

2. Lubricate the valve stems with sulphurized oil, and slide the valves into the guides.
NOTE:
If reconditioned valves are used, install them in their former location.
3. Hold the valves in place with a strip of masking tape, and turn the cylinder head right
side up on the bench.
4. Place a board under the head to support the valves and to provide clearance between
the cam followers and the bench.
5. Install the valve spring seats.

6. If required, install the valve guide oil seal. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
7. Install the valve springs and valve spring caps.
8. Thread the valve spring compressor J 7455-A into one of the rocker shaft bolt holes in
the cylinder head.
NOTICE:
Compress the valve spring just enough to permit installation of
the valve locks. Compressing the spring too far may result in
damage to the valve guide oil seal.
NOTICE:
Use care to avoid scoring the valve stem with the valve cap when
compressing the spring. Give the end of the valve stem a sharp
tap with a plastic hammer to seat the valve locks. This will help
properly seat the valve locks and reduce the chances of failure.
9. Apply pressure to free end of the tool, compressing the valve spring.
10. Install the two-piece tapered valve lock.
11. Release the tool, and install the valve locks on the remaining exhaust valves.
12. Check the position of the exhaust valve with spring checking gage J 25076-B.

1.5 EXHAUST VALVES
13. Observe the gage reading as the exhaust valve starts to open. See Figure 1-65.
NOTE:
The minimum allowable pressure required to open the exhaust valve, must not be less
than 20 lbs.
Figure 1-65 Checking Pressure Required to Open the Exhaust Valve in

Cylinder Head with Tool J 25076-B
14. Install the injectors. Refer to section 2.2.5.

15. Install the rocker arms. Refer to section 1.4.9.
16. Install the shafts. Refer to section 1.4.9.
17. Install the brackets. Refer to section 1.4.9.
18. Install the cylinder head. Refer to section 1.3.5.
19. Adjust the exhaust valve bridges. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

20. Install the fuel pipes. Refer to section 2.2.5, step 5.

22. Adjust the exhaust valve clearance. Refer to section 12.2.
23. Time the injectors. Refer to section 12.3.
24. Start the engine, and check for leaks in the fuel, cooling and lubrication systems.
Refer to section 13.11, refer to section13.12, and refer to section 13.5.3.
25. Perform a complete engine tune-up. Refer to section 12.1.

1.6 VALVE ROCKER COVERS
The valve rocker cover assembly completely encloses the valve and injector rocker arm
compartment. Gaskets in the lower rail groove or in the flanged edge of the former stamped metal
rocker cover, seal the cylinder head against oil leakage.
In former engines an option plate is inserted in the retainer and attached to one of the covers.
3/8 in.-16 twelve-point head shoulder bolts with a steel washer and silicone isolator hold the
current die cast rocker cover in place. The bolts have a shoulder that bottoms against the cylinder
head or throttle delay bracket. The isolators and gasket use low compression-set materials that
provide sealing longevity and minimize engine noise levels.

The former stamped metal rocker cover is held in place with hold-down knobs. See Figure 1-66.
1. Rocker Cover Gasket 10. Rocker Cover Breather

2. Rocker Cover 11. Hold Down Plate
3. Cylinder Head 12. Screw
4. Former Rocker Cover Gasket 13. Current Rocker Cover Gasket
5. Former Rocker Cover 14. Current Rocker Cover
6. Washer 15. Isolator
7. Hold Down Knob 16. Washer
8. Locking Pin 17. Hold Down Bolt
9. Option Plate Retainer 18. Breather Gasket
Figure 1-66 Valve Rocker Covers (Former and Current)

NOTICE:
Failure to use a rocker cover breather on the left-bank head can
result in high engine crankcase pressure. Excessive pressure
can cause crankshaft oil leakage and/or loss of oil through the
dipstick tube.
Depending upon engine application, the valve rocker cover assembly may include a breather
assembly or an oil filler.
The former stamped metal rocker cover is interchangeable with the current die cast rocker cover.
Only the current covers are serviced. The former rocker cover gaskets, hold-down knob and studs,
former ventilating system components, and oil filler will be serviced on early engines.

1.6.1 Repair or Replacement of Valve Rocker Cover

See Figure 1-67.
Figure 1-67 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Valve Rocker Cover
1.6.2 Removal of Valve Rocker Cover
Remove the valve rocker cover as follows:

1. Clean the valve rocker covers and around the covers before removing them from the
engine to avoid dust or dirt from entering the valve mechanism.
2. Loosen the bolts or knobs.
3. Remove each cover from the engine.

1.6.2.1 Cleaning of Valve Rocker Cover
Prior to disassembly, clean the valve rocker cover as follows:
EYE INJURY
1. Blow out the groove in the rocker cover with compressed air to clean it.
NOTE:
Oil in the rocker cover or on the silicone gasket will make it difficult to install.
1.6.3 Disassembly of Valve Rocker Cover
Disassemble valve rocker cover as follows:

1. Press the stem side of the new "T" gasket out of the four corners of the groove.
2. Press the remainder of the gasket out of the groove.
1.6.3.1 Inspection of Valve Rocker Cover
Inspect the valve rocker cover as follows:
FIRE
refueling.
1. Wash components in clean fuel oil.

EYE INJURY
2. Blow dry with compressed air.

3. Clean breather assembly with clean fuel oil and inspect for damage.
[a] If breather assembly is damaged, it must be replaced.
[b] If no damage is detected, the breather assembly may be reused.
1.6.4 Assembly of Valve Rocker Cover
Assemble the valve rocker cover as follows:

1. Press the stem side of the new "T" gasket into the four corners of the groove.
2. Press the remainder of the gasket in the groove.
NOTE:
Ensure the gasket stem bottoms in the groove. The gasket should not fall out when it is
completely installed in the groove.
1.6.5 Installation of Valve Rocker Cover
Install the valve rocker cover as follows:
NOTE:
When replacing a former stamped rocker cover with the new die cast aluminum rocker
cover, remove the adaptor studs from the cylinder head. The new bolts are installed
directly into the tapped holes in the modulator mechanism.
NOTE:
Do not replace the valve rocker cover bolt with an ordinary bolt.
NOTE:
Do not use former gasket and hold-down knobs with the die cast cover.

FIRE
To avoid injury from fire, keep open flames, sparks,
electrical resistance heating elements, or other potential
ignition sources away when draining lubrication oil. Do
not smoke when draining lubricating oil.
1. Lubricate the cylinder head rail and the flat surface of the gasket with a thin film of
engine oil.
2. Place each cover on the engine.
NOTICE:
Do not overtighten the shorter rocker cover bolt. If overtightened,
the bracket will crack.
3. Tighten the bolts to 20-27 N·m (15-20 lb·ft) torque.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
The crankshaft is a one-piece steel forging, heat-treated to ensure strength and durability.
See Figure 1-68. A two-piece crankshaft assembly is used on the 12V and 16V engines. The
two halves are bolted together at the center flange. The main and connecting rod bearing journal
surfaces and fillets on all crankshafts are induction hardened.
1. Counterweight 4. Connecting Rod Journal

2. Lubricating Oil Hole 5. Rear Main Bearing Journal
3. Plug
Figure 1-68 Typical 8V-92 Crankshaft
Counterweights incorporated in the crankshaft achieve complete static and dynamic crankshaft
balance.
Thrust washers located at the rear main bearing cap control crankshaft end play. Drilled passages
within the crankshaft and cylinder block provide full pressure lubrication to all connecting rod
and main bearings. Twelve equally spaced tapped holes attach the flywheel on 8V engines.
Each main bearing journal has a 114.3 mm (4.5 in.) diameter and each connecting rod journal has
a 76.2 mm (3 in.) diameter.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
The current crankshafts differ from the former in that the main bearing journal oil holes are offset
approximately 90 degrees to the oil holes in the former crankshafts and are drilled at intersecting
angles. See Figure 1-69. These changes provide up to a 50% thicker oil film on the main bearing
journals during engine operation.
1. Oil Hole
Figure 1-69 Cross Sectional View of Crankshaft Showing Offset, Relocated

Main Bearing Journal Oil Holes
The current crankshafts are unidirectional. Right-hand rotation crankshafts must be used with
right-hand rotating engines. Left-hand rotation crankshafts must be used with left-hand rotating
engines.

Current timing gears have a hole drilled in their bolt flanges. This hole provides clearance for a
new 1/4 in. x 3/4 in. roll pin installed in the timing gear end of the new crankshafts. See Figure
1-70. The pin permits the installation of right-hand crankshaft timing gears on right-hand
crankshafts and left-hand timing gears on left hand crankshafts.
1. Roll Pin
Figure 1-70 Roll Pin Installed in End of Crankshaft
A similar clearance hole and roll pin is used in the mating flanges of the current 12V and 16V
crankshaft halves to ensure that the right-hand front crankshaft half will only assemble to the
right-hand rear crankshaft half, and the left-hand front crankshaft half will only assemble to
the left-hand rear crankshaft half.
The new crankshafts have a seven-digit forging number on the front counterweights, followed by a
letter "R" or "L." This distinguishes the former from the current and designates crankshaft rotation.
The 12V and 16V crankshaft halves have new assembly marks that are used for alignment. These
marks must be lined up when halves are assembled. The marks are abbreviated as follows:
□ "FRH" Front Right-Hand
□ "RRH" Rear Right-Hand
□ "FLH" Front Left-Hand
□ "RLH" Rear Left-Hand
New 8V crankshafts have an increased diameter at the in-pan oil pump drive gear area.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
The press fit oil pump drive gear eliminates the use of Loctite to secure the gear. Because of the
large diameter in this area, a different oil pump drive hub is used on 8V engines with front cover
oil pumps. The 6V crankshaft does not have the increased diameter at the oil pump drive gear
area and may use the former oil pump drive hub with front cover oil pump. New production 6V
engines are built with the new oil pump drive hub.
NOTE:
The new crankshafts and timing gears are completely interchangeable with the former
crankshafts and timing gears for the same engine rotation. Only the new parts will be
serviced.

1.7.1 Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft

See Figure 1-71.
Figure 1-71 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
1.7.2 Removal of Crankshaft
Prior to removing the crankshaft, remove the following components:

1. Remove the transmission. Refer to section 1.1.2.
2. Clean the engine exterior .
3. Drain the lubricating system. Refer to section 13.5.2.
4. Drain the cooling system crankcase. Refer to section 13.12.3.
5. Remove all engine to base attaching bolts.
FALLING ENGINE
To avoid injury from a falling engine, do not use the engine
lifter brackets alone when lifting the engine with a marine
gear, main alternator, engine skid, engine module, radiator,
or similar component attached. The engine lifter brackets
are designed to lift the engine only.
6. Attach chain hoist and sling to the lifter brackets or eye bolts at each end of the engine.
7. Remove the engine.
8. Remove all of the accessories and assemblies necessary to mount the engine on the
overhaul stand.
FALLING ENGINE
9. Mount the engine on an overhaul stand, and fasten it securely to the mounting plate.
NOTE:
For 6V and 8V engines, use overhaul stand J 29109 with adaptor J 33850. For 12V and
16V engines, use overhaul stand J 9389-04 and adaptor J 8650.

FALLING ENGINE
10. Release the lifting sling.

11. Remove the oil pan. Refer to section 3.11.2.
12. If it is mounted on the main bearing caps, remove the lubricating oil pump.
13. Remove the flywheel. Refer to section 1.16.2.
14. Remove the flywheel housing. Refer to section 1.16.2.
NOTE:
When removing the flywheel housing bolts, note the location of the various size bolts,
lock washers, flat washers and copper washers so they may be installed in their proper
location.
NOTICE:
Use care when removing the crankshaft cap or pulley retaining
bolts so the vibration damper does not come off. If the damper is
allowed to fall, damage to the internal components of the damper
may result.
15. Remove the crankshaft cap or pulley retaining bolt and washer.
16. Remove the pulley if used.
17. Remove the vibration damper, except on 12V and 16V engines.
18. Remove the front engine support.
19. Remove the crankshaft front cover and oil pump assembly.
20. Remove the vibration damper inner cone or oil seal spacer.
21. Remove the cylinder heads. Refer to section 1.3.2.
22. Remove the connecting rod bearing caps.
23. Remove the main bearing caps and stabilizers.
24. Remove the thrust washers from each side of the rear main bearing cap.
25. Remove the pistons. Refer to section 1.21.2.
26. Remove the connecting rods. Refer to section 1.21.2.
27. Remove the liners. Refer to section 1.23.2.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
BODILY INJURY
load.
NOTICE:
Ensure crankshaft is securely attached to the lifting sling before
removing from the engine. Part damage may result if the
crankshaft breaks away from the lifting sling and falls.

28. Remove the crankshaft, including the timing gear and oil pump drive gear. See Figure
1-72.
1. Cylinder Block 4. Crankshaft

2. Oil Pump Drive Gear 5. Crankshaft Timing Gear
3. Suitable Lifting Sling
Figure 1-72 Removing or Installing Crankshaft
29. On 6V and 8V engines, refer to step 31 to continue removal procedure.

30. On 12V and 16V engines, remove the following:
□ Remove the crankshaft, including the damper assembly. Refer to section 1.14.3.
□ Remove the timing gear, and hub at the front end. Refer to section 1.29.3.
□ Remove the oil pump driving gear and timing gear at the rear end. Refer to section
1.29.3.
□ Refer to section 1.7.2.1 for cleaning of crankshaft.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
31. Remove the crankshaft timing gear from the crankshaft. Refer to section 1.29.2.
32. Remove the oil pump drive gear and Woodruff keys from the crankshaft.
1.7.2.1 Cleaning of Crankshaft
Prior to inspection, clean the crankshaft as follows:

1. Remove the plugs and clean out the oil passages with a stiff wire brush.
FIRE
To avoid injury from fire caused by heated diesel-fuel
vapors:
□ Keep those people who are not directly involved in
servicing away from the engine.
□ Stop the engine immediately if a fuel leak is detected.
□ Do not smoke or allow open flames when working on
an operating engine.
□ Wear adequate protective clothing (face shield,
insulated gloves and apron, etc.).
□ To prevent a buildup of potentially volatile vapors, keep
the engine area well ventilated during operation.
2. Clean the crankshaft with fuel oil.
EYE INJURY

4. Install the plugs. Torque to 14-16 N·m (10-12 lb·ft).
5. Use tool J 34650 to install the new seal-coated 1/8 in.-27 pipe plug.
1.7.2.2 Inspection of Crankshaft
Inspect crankshaft as follows:

1. Visually inspect the keyways for cracks or wear.
[a] If cracked or worn, replace crankshaft.

□ For replacement of the one piece crankshaft, refer to section 1.7.4, refer to section
1.7.4.1, and refer to section 1.7.5.
□ For replacement of the two piece crankshaft, refer to section 1.7.6, refer to section
[b] If no wear is evident, continue with the inspection.
2. Visually inspect the oil pump drive keyway for damage.
[a] If damaged, replace crankshaft.
[b] If no damage is evident, proceed with inspection.
3. Visually inspect the crankshaft for evidence of overheating.
[a] If the heat treatment has been destroyed, replace crankshaft.
[b] If the heat treatment is not destroyed, continue inspection.
4. Inspect the crankshaft run-out by supporting the crankshaft on its front and rear journals
on V-blocks, in a lathe or the inverted engine block, with only the front and rear upper
bearing shells in place, check the bow.
[a] If the run-out limit is greater than that listed in Table 1-3, replace crankshaft.
Max. Run-Out
Engine Journals Supported On Journals Measured
(Total Indicator Reading)
6V No. 1 and No. 4 No. 2 and No. 3 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
No. 2 and No. 4 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
8V No. 1 and No. 5
No. 3 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
No. 2 and No. 7 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
12V No. 1 and No. 8 No. 3 and No. 6 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
No. 4 and No. 5 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
No. 2 and No. 9 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
No. 3 and No. 8 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
16V No. 1 and No. 10
No. 4 and No. 7 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
No. 5 and No. 6 0.20 mm (0.008 in.)
Table 1-3 Run-Out Limits

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
[b] If the run-out limit is within specification, continue inspection.

Inspect the following run-out high spots on the adjacent journals:
5. If the run-out high spots on the adjacent journals are in opposite directions, the sum must
not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003 in.) total indicator reading.
[a] If the sum exceeds 0.082 mm (0.003 in.), replace crankshaft.
[b] If the sum does not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003 in.), continue inspection.
6. If the run-out high spots on the adjacent journals are in the same direction, the difference
must not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003 in.) total indicator reading.
[a] If the sum exceeds 0.08 mm (0.003 in.), replace crankshaft.
[b] If the sum does not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003 in.), continue inspection.
7. If the run-out high spots on the adjacent journals are at right angles to each other, the sum
must not exceed 0.10 mm (0.004 in.) total indicator reading or 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) on
each journal.
[a] If the sum exceeds 0.10 mm (0.004 in.) total indicator reading or 0.05 mm (0.002
in.) on each journal, replace crankshaft.
[b] If the sum does not exceed 0.10 mm (0.004 in.) total indicator reading or 0.05 mm
(0.002 in.) on each journal, continue inspection.
8. Measure adjacent journal alignment.

[a] Measure all main and connecting rod bearing journals. See Figure 1-73.
Figure 1-73 Dimensions of Crankshaft Journals
NOTE:
Measure the journals at several places on the circumference so that taper, out-of-round,
and bearing clearances can be determined.
NOTE:
Crankshaft measurements must be accurate to the nearest 0.005 mm (0.0002 in.).
[b] If the maximum connecting rod or main bearing journal-to-bearing shell clearance,
with new shells exceeds 0.114 mm (0.0045 in.) on connecting rod journals or 0.140
mm (0.0055 in.) on main bearing journals, regrind the crankshaft. Refer to section
[c] If a used crankshaft main bearing journal taper exceeds 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.) or the
out-of-round is greater than 0.013 mm (0.0005 in.), replace crankshaft.
[d] If the measurements fall within these specifications, proceed with inspection.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
9. Measure the crankshaft thrust washer surfaces. See Figure 1-74.
Figure 1-74 Standard Dimension at Rear Main Bearing Thrust Washer
[a] If the thrust washer surface measurements exceed the specified limits, replace
crankshaft.
[b] If the thrust washer surface measurements fall within the specified limits, continue
with inspection.
10. Visually inspect for bending fatigue failures starting at the pin fillet, progressing
throughout the crank cheek, and possibly extending into the main journal fillet. The
following will impose a bending stress on the crankshaft:
□ Main bearing bore misalignment
□ Improperly fitted bearings
□ Bearing failures
□ Loose or broken bearing cap
□ Unbalanced pulleys
□ Too tight drive belts
[a] If fatigue failure is evident, correct the bending stress cause, and replace crankshaft.

[b] If no fatigue failure is present, proceed with inspection.
11. Visually inspect for cracks on the crankshaft. Cracks will occur on either side of the
damaged bearing. See Figure 1-75.
Figure 1-75 Critical Crankshaft Loading Zones
[a] If cracked, replace the crankshaft.

[b] If the crankshaft is not cracked, continue inspection.
12. Inspect for torsional fatigue in the following areas:
□ Connecting rod journal
□ Crank cheek in the rear
□ Front end of the crankshaft at the oil pump drive key slot
□ Connecting rod journal failures at the fillet or oil hole at 45 degrees to the shaft axis
NOTE:
A combination of abnormal speed and load conditions may cause torsional vibration, that
imposes high stress at certain locations.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
NOTICE:
A loose, damaged, or defective vibration damper, a loose
flywheel, or the introduction of improper or additional pulleys or
couplings are usual causes of torsional failure. Overspeeding
the engine or resetting the governor for speeds not intended for
the engine application can contribute to torsional failure.
[a] If evidence of torsional fatigue is detected, replace the crankshaft.

[b] If no evidence of torsional fatigue is detected, continue inspection.
13. Inspect the crankshaft journal surfaces for score marks.
[a] If excessively scored, grind the journal surfaces. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
[b] If the journals are not scored, continue inspection.
14. Visually inspect the crankshaft oil seal contact surface for roughness or grooves.
[a] If excessively rough or grooved, sleeve the surface. Install an oversized seal.
[b] If the crankshaft oil seal contact surface is not rough or grooved, continue with
inspection.
15. Visually inspect the crankshaft thrust surfaces for excessive wear or grooves.
[a] If excessively worn or grooved, regrind the surfaces. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION "Crankshaft Grinding".
[b] If not excessively worn or grooved, continue inspection.
16. Inspect the oil pump drive gear and the crankshaft timing gear for worn or chipped teeth.
[a] If worn or chipped, replace the gears. Refer to section 1.29.6.
[b] If no wear or chipping is evident, proceed with inspection.
17. Inspect crankshaft for cracks. Refer to section 1.7.3 for "Methods of Inspection".
1.7.3 Methods for Inspecting Crankshaft
Any one or a combination of the following methods can be used for checking a crankshaft for
cracks. If any method reveals cracks, the crankshaft should be replaced.
1.7.3.1 Inspection of Crankshaft using the Magnetic Particle Method
Perform the magnetic particle method as follows:

1. Magnetize the crankshaft.

2. Cover with a fine magnetic powder or solution.
NOTE:
The magnetic powder or solution will gather around any cracks. See Figure 1-76.
Figure 1-76 Crankshaft Fatigue Cracks
[a] If any cracks are revealed, replace the crankshaft.

[b] If no cracks are evident, reuse the crankshaft.
3. Demagnetize the crankshaft.
1.7.3.2 Inspect Crankshaft using Fluorescent Magnetic Particle Method
Perform the fluorescent magnetic particle method as follows:

1. Magnetize the crankshaft.
2. Cover with magnetic, fluorescent powder or solution.
3. Hold the crankshaft under a "black light."
NOTE:
Very fine cracks will be disclosed, especially on discolored or dark surfaces.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT

4. Demagnetize the crankshaft.
1.7.3.3 Inspect Crankshaft using Fluorescent Penetrant Method
Perform the fluorescent penetrant method as follows:

1. Apply a highly fluorescent liquid penetrant to the crankshaft.
2. Wipe off excess penetrant.
3. Dry the crankshaft.
4. Apply a developing powder to draw the penetrant out of the flaws.
5. Hold the crankshaft under a "black light."
NOTE:
Cracks will be disclosed under the "black light."

1.7.4 Installation of the One Piece Crankshaft
Install the one piece crankshaft as follows:

1. If a new crankshaft is to be installed, steam clean it to remove the rust preventive.
EYE INJURY
2. Blow out the oil passages with compressed air.

3. Install the plugs.

4. Install the crankshaft timing gear on the crankshaft. Refer to section 1.29.7.
5. Install the oil pump drive gear on the crankshaft. Refer to section 3.2.7.
6. Install the upper main bearing shells in the block. Refer to section 1.10.3. If installing oil
bearing shells, place them in the same locations from where they were removed.
NOTE:
When a new or reground crankshaft is installed, all new main and connecting rod
(upper and lower) bearing shells and new thrust washers must be installed.
USED ENGINE OIL

7. Apply clean engine oil 360 degrees around all crankshaft bearing journals.
BODILY INJURY
load.
NOTICE:
Ensure crankshaft is securely attached to the engine before
releasing the lifting sling. Part damage may result if the
crankshaft breaks away from the engine and falls.
8. Install the crankshaft in the engine. Align the timing gear and idler gear. Refer to section
1.25 for the correct gear train timing method.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
9. Install the upper halves of the crankshaft thrust washers on each side of the rear main
bearing support and the doweled lower halves on each side of the rear main bearing cap.
The grooved side of the thrust washers must face toward the crankshaft thrust surfaces.
NOTE:
If the crankshaft thrust surfaces were reground, it may be necessary to install oversize
thrust washers on one or both sides of the rear main journal. See Figure 1-77.
Dimensions are listed in Table 1-4.
Thrust Washer Thickness Thrust Washer Thickness

Nominal Size
(Minimum) (Maximum)
Standard 3.023 mm (0.1190 in.) 3.099 mm (0.1220 in.)
0.005 in. Oversize 3.150 mm (0.1240 in.) 3.226 mm (0.1270 in.)
0.010 in. Oversize 3.277 mm (0.1290 in.) 3.353 mm 1.4 (0.1320 in.)
Table 1-4 Dimensions for Oversize Thrust Washers
10. Install the lower bearing shells (no oil slot) in the bearing caps. If the old bearing shells are
reused, install them in the same bearing from which they were removed. Refer to section
1.10.3.
11. Install the bearing caps and lower bearing shells. Refer to section 1.10.3.
NOTE:
If the bearings have been installed properly, the crankshaft will turn freely, with all main
bearing cap bolts drawn to the specified torque.

12. Install the cylinder liner, piston, and connecting rod assemblies. Refer to section 1.23.3.
13. Install the cylinder heads. Refer to section 1.3.5.
14. Install the flywheel housing. Refer to section 1.19.3.
15. Install the flywheel. Refer to section 1.16.5.
NOTICE:
To avoid damage to the oil seal lip, install the oil seal spacer or
inner cone after the crankshaft front cover is in place.
16. Install the crankshaft front cover.

17. Install the oil pump assembly. Refer to section 3.2.9.
18. Install the engine front support.
19. Install the vibration damper inner cone or oil seal spacer.
20. Install the vibration damper assembly, if used.
21. Install the crankshaft cap or pulley. Refer to section 1.9.3.
22. Install the 12V and 16V engine lubricating oil pump assembly. Refer to section 3.2.10.
1.7.4.1 Inspection of the One Piece Crankshaft for Distortion
Inspect the crankshaft for distortion as follows:
NOTICE:
Check the crankshaft for distortion at the rear connecting rod
journal counterweights before and after installing the power
take-off reduction gear assembly, transmission, or power
generator. An improperly installed power take-off reduction
gear assembly, transmission, or power generator can distort the
crankshaft and cause a crankshaft failure.
NOTICE:
Overtightened drive belts can cause crankshaft distortion.
Refer to section 13.18 for recommended tensions.
NOTICE:
Detroit Diesel is not responsible for system damage caused
by engine-to-driven component interference and/or distortion.
The engine crankshaft end play check and crankshaft distortion
check must be performed.
1. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the crankshaft counterweights at the rear connecting
rod journal are in the six o'clock position.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
2. Center punch a 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) hole in the inside face of each counterweight cheek.
3. Install a Starrett® No. 696 dial gage, or equivalent, in the center punch holes in the cheek
of each counterweight. See Figure 1-78.
1. Dial Indicator Gage 2. Crankshaft Cheek
Figure 1-78 Crankshaft Distortion Measuring Gage (Mounted on Crankshaft)
4. Set the dial indicator at zero.

5. Rotate the crankshaft approximately 90 degrees in both directions. Do not allow the gage
to contact the connecting rod caps or bolts.
6. Keep a record of the dial indicator readings at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions. The
maximum allowable variation is 0.114 mm (0.0045 in.) total indicator reading.
7. If the gage reading exceeds 0.114 mm (0.0045 in.), check the reduction gear, transmission,
or power generator for improper installation.
8. Realign, if necessary.
9. Remove the dial gage.
1.7.5 Installation of the One Piece Crankshaft (Continued)
Continue installing the crankshaft as follows:

1. Affix a new gasket to the oil pan flange. Install the oil pan. Refer to section 1.7.5.

FALLING ENGINE
FALLING ENGINE
2. Attach chain hoist and sling to the lifting bracket or eye bolts at each end of the engine.
3. Remove the engine from the overhaul stand.
NOTICE:
Failure to inspect parts thoroughly before installation, failure to
install the proper parts, or failure to install parts properly can
result in component or engine malfunction and/or damage.
4. Install all accessories that were removed.

5. Refill the crankcase to the proper level on the dipstick. Refer to section 13.5.1.
6. Refer to section 11.5 for engine run-in procedures.
1.7.6 Installation of the Two Piece Crankshaft
Install the two piece crankshaft as follows:
PERSONAL INJURY
1. If a new crankshaft is to be installed, steam clean it to remove the rust preventive.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
EYE INJURY
2. Blow out the oil passages with compressed air.

3. Install the plugs.
NOTE:
4. Assemble the crankshaft timing gear and front timing gear damper. Refer to section 1.29.6.
5. Install the upper slotted main bearing shells in the cylinder block. Refer to section 1.10.3.
USED ENGINE OIL

6. Apply clean engine oil 360 degrees around all crankshaft bearing journals.
BODILY INJURY
load.
NOTICE:
Ensure crankshaft is securely attached to the engine before
releasing the lifting sling. Part damage may result if the
crankshaft breaks away from the engine and falls.
7. Position each crankshaft half in the cylinder block.
NOTE:
Install the crankshaft in place so the timing marks on the crankshaft timing gear and the
idler gear match. Refer to section 1.29 for the correct method of timing the gear train.

8. Install the upper halves of the crankshaft thrust washers on each side of the rear main
bearing support and the doweled lower halves on each side of the rear main bearing cap.
The grooved side of the thrust washers must face toward the crankshaft thrust surfaces.
NOTE:
NOTE:
If the crankshaft thrust surfaces were reground, it may be necessary to install oversize
thrust washers on one or both sides of the rear main journal. See Figure 1-79.
Dimensions are listed in Table 1-5.
Thrust Washer Thickness Thrust Washer Thickness

Nominal Size
(Minimum) (Maximum)
Standard 3.023 mm (0.1190 in.) 3.099 mm (0.1220 in.)
0.005 in. Oversize 3.150 mm (0.1240 in.) 3.226 mm (0.1270 in.)
0.010 in. Oversize 3.277 mm (0.1290 in.) 3.353 mm 1.4 (0.1320 in.)
9. Sharply rap the caps with a soft hammer to seat them properly.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
10. Uniformly tighten each set of the former main bearing cap bolts to 339-352 N·m
(250-260 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
Do not mix the former and new main bearing cap bolts on an engine.
11. Tighten the new bolts that require a 15/16 in. socket to 312-325 N·m (230-240 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
If the bearings have been installed properly, the crankshaft halves will turn freely, with
the main bearing cap bolts drawn to the specified torque.
12. Position a dial indicator on No. 5 and No. 6 journals.

13. Rotate the crankshaft halves until the crankshaft assembly marks "F" and "R" are in
alignment on the two crankshaft end flanges.

14. Install four bolts and nuts 90 degrees apart. See Figure 1-80.
Figure 1-80 Two-Piece Crankshaft (12V and 16V)
15. Tighten the four bolts and nuts.

16. While slowly rotating the crankshaft, tap the flanges. The two center adjacent journals
must be concentric within 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) total indicator reading and must not run-out
more than 0.20 mm (0.008 in.) total indicator reading.
17. Install the remaining bolts and nuts.
18. Alternately torque each nut (180 degrees apart) until all nuts have been tightened to
238-251 N·m (175-185 lb·ft).
NOTE:
Because of the space limitations, a torque wrench adaptor J 22898-A must be used. The
torque wrench reading must be adjusted according to the increase in the torque wrench

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
length. Use the following formula to determine the adjusted torque reading: Tw = Ta (L
/ (L + A))
If the effective length of the wrench (L) is 22 in., and the adaptor (A) is 3 in., a reading
of 215 N·m (158 lb·ft) should be obtained. This will ensure that the bolt is torqued to
244 N·m (180 lb·ft). See Figure 1-81.
Figure 1-81 Calculating Torque When an Adaptor is Used
19. Install the two center main bearing caps.
1.7.6.1 Inspection of the Two Piece Crankshaft for End Play
Check the crankshaft end play as follows:

1. Move the crankshaft toward the gage with a small (less than 12 in.) pry bar. See Figure
1-82.
1. Dial Indicator 3. Pry Bar

2. Crankshaft
Figure 1-82 Checking Crankshaft End Play
2. Keeping constant pressure on the pry bar, set the dial indicator to zero.
3. Remove and insert pry bar on the other side of the bearing cap.
4. Force crankshaft in the opposite direction, and observe the amount of end play on the dial.
The end play should be 0.10-0.28 mm (0.004-0.011 in.) with new parts or a maximum
of 0.46 mm (0.018 in.) with used parts.
NOTE:
Insufficient end play can result from a misaligned rear main bearing or a burr or dirt on
the inner face of one or more thrust washers.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
1.7.7 Installation of the Two Piece Crankshaft (Continued)
Continue crankshaft installation as follows:

1. Install the cylinder liner, piston, and connecting rod assemblies. Refer to section 1.23.3.
NOTICE:
To avoid damage to the oil seal lip, install the oil seal spacer or
inner cone after the crankshaft front cover is in place.
5. Install the crankshaft front cover.

6. Install the oil pump assembly. Refer to section 3.2.9.
7. Install the engine front support.
8. Install the vibration damper inner cone or oil seal spacer.
9. Install the vibration damper assembly, if used.
10. Install the crankshaft cap or pulley. Refer to section 1.15.
NOTICE:
Check the crankshaft for distortion at the rear connecting rod
journal counterweights before and after installing the power
take-off reduction gear assembly, transmission, or power
generator. An improperly installed power take-off reduction
gear assembly, transmission, or power generator can distort the
crankshaft and cause a crankshaft failure.
NOTICE:
Overtightened drive belts can cause crankshaft distortion.
Refer to section 13.18 for recommended tensions.
NOTICE:
Detroit Diesel is not responsible for system damage caused
by engine-to-driven component interference and/or distortion.
The engine crankshaft end play check and crankshaft distortion
check must be performed.
11. Install the 12V and 16V engine lubricating oil pump assembly. Refer to section 3.2.10.

1.7.7.1 Inspection of the Two Piece Crankshaft for Distortion
Check the crankshaft for distortion as follows:

1. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the crankshaft counterweights at the rear connecting
rod journal are in the six o'clock position.
2. Center punch a 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) hole in the inside face of each counterweight cheek.
3. Install a Starrett Co. No. 696 dial gage, or equivalent, in the center punch holes in the
cheek of each counterweight. See Figure 1-83.
1. Dial Indicator Gage 2. Crankshaft Cheek
Figure 1-83 Crankshaft Distortion Measuring Gage (Mounted in Crankshaft)
4. Set the dial indicator at zero.

5. Rotate the crankshaft approximately 90 degrees in both directions. Do not allow the gage
to contact the connecting rod caps or bolts.
6. Keep a record of the dial indicator readings at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions. The
maximum allowable variation is 0.114 mm (0.0045 in.) total indicator reading.
7. If the gage reading exceeds 0.114 mm (0.0045 in.), check the reduction gear, transmission,
or power generator for improper installation.
8. Realign, if necessary.
9. Remove the gage.

1.7 CRANKSHAFT
1.7.8 Installation of the Two Piece Crankshaft (Completion)
Complete crankshaft installation as follows:

1. Affix a new gasket to the oil pan flange. Install the oil pan. Refer to section 3.11.3.
FALLING ENGINE
FALLING ENGINE
2. Attach chain hoist and sling to the lifting bracket or eye bolts at each end of the engine.
4. Install all accessories that were removed.
5. Fill the crankcase to the proper level on the dipstick. Refer to section 13.5.1.
6. Refer to section 11.5 for engine run-in procedures.

1.8 CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALS (FRONT AND REAR)
An oil seal is used at each end of the crankshaft to retain the lubricating oil in the crankcase. A
coil spring holds the sealing lips of the crankshaft oil seals firmly, but not tightly, against the
crankshaft sealing surfaces, preventing oil from escaping from the engine crankcase.
The front oil seal in 6V and 8V engines is pressed into the crankshaft front cover. See Figure
1-84. In the 12V and 16V engines, the seal is pressed into the engine front cover or trunnion
assembly. The seal lip bears against a removable spacer or vibration damper inner cone on the
end of the crankshaft.
1. Sleeve 3. Crankshaft Front Cover

2. Oil Seal 4. Crankshaft
Figure 1-84 Typical Crankshaft Front Oil Seal Mounting
New lip-type crankshaft front oil seals have been released to service engines operated in sustained
low ambient temperatures. The new service-only seals are made of a special low-temperature
polyacrylic material and are unidirectional. Because these seals are intended for operation in
temperatures as low as -32°C (-25°F), they may not provide satisfactory service life on engines
operated at normal ambient temperatures.

The crankshaft rear oil seal is pressed into the flywheel housing. Standard production seals seat
directly on the crankshafts. See Figure 1-85.
1. Crankshaft 2. Oil Seal
Figure 1-85 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Mounting
Double-lip, unidirectional Teflon oil seals are used in all production coach engines. All other
production engines with dry flywheel housings use single-lip seals, a unidirectional seal in
right-hand rotating engines, and a bidirectional seal in left-hand rotating engines.
Double-lip, bidirectional oil seals are used in all production engines where there is oil on both
sides of the seal. The lips of the two seals face in opposite directions.
NOTICE:
Unidirectional crankshaft rear oil seals are designated for use
on either right-hand or left-hand rotating engines. An arrow
imprinted on the seal case indicates the direction of crankshaft
rotation. Failure to observe crankshaft rotation and install
the correct unidirectional seal on an engine will result in seal
damage and/or serious oil leakage.
Oversize single and double-lip oil seals are available for service in both unidirectional and
bidirectional configurations. Oversize seals must be used with wear sleeves installed on the
crankshaft.

1.8.1 Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft Oil Seals
To determine if replacement is necessary, perform the following procedure. See Figure 1-86.
Figure 1-86 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft Oil Seals
1.8.2 Removal of Crankshaft Oil Seal (with Front Cover, Trunnion, or

Flywheel Housing Removed)
Remove the crankshaft oil seals as follows:

1. Remove the engine front cover. Refer to section 1.11.2.
3. Support the outer face of the cover, trunnion, or housing on wood blocks.
4. Drive the oil seal out, and clean the seal bore in the cover or housing.

1.8.3 Removal of Front/Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal (with Front Cover,

Trunnion, or Flywheel Housing Installed)
When necessary, oil seals may be removed without removing the front cover, trunnion, or
flywheel housing as follows:
1. Drill holes directly opposite each other in the seal casing.
2. Install metal screws with flat washers.
3. Pry against the flat washers with suitable pry bars to remove the seals.
1.8.4 Removal of Oil Seal Sleeve
If necessary, remove the oil seal sleeve as follows:

1. Peen the outside diameter until the sleeve stretches sufficiently so that it becomes loose.
2. Slip the sleeve off the crankshaft
NOTE:
On 12V and 16V trunnion mounted engines, a replaceable sleeve is part of the vibration
damper hub. For proper replacement procedures, refer to section 1.14.4.
1.8.4.1 Inspection of Crankshaft Oil Seals
Oil seals may become worn or damaged due to the following conditions:
□ Improper Installation
□ Excessive Main Bearing Clearances
□ Excessive Flywheel Housing Bore Run-Out
□ Damaged Seal, or Wear Sleeve
Inspect the crankshaft oil seals as follows:
1. Inspect the rear end of the crankshaft for oil leaks.
NOTICE:
The crankshaft surface must be clean and smooth to prevent
damaging the seal lip when a new oil seal is installed.
[a] If dirt buildup is found, replace seal. Refer to section 1.8.4.2.

[b] If no dirt buildup is found, continue inspection. Refer to step 1[c].
[c] If oil seal wear or damage is found, replace seal. Refer to section 1.8.4.2.
[d] If there is no visible seal wear or seal damage, refer to section 1.8.4.2.
1.8.4.2 Inspection of Oil Seal Bore Run-Out
Inspect the oil seal bore run-out as follows:

1. Keep the flywheel housing or 12V and 16V front cover or trunnion on the engine, and
remove the oil seal to perform the check.
2. With the dial indicator mounted on the end of the crankshaft, check the bore as you would
flywheel concentricity. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
NOTE:
The maximum run-out of the oil seal bore in the front cover or trunnion on all 12V and
16V engines to the flywheel housing on all V engines is 0.20 mm (0.008 in.).
[a] If the maximum run-out exceeds 0.05 mm (0.002 in.). Replace flywheel housing.
[b] If the maximum run-out is within the specified limits and the crankshaft has passed
all crankshaft inspection procedures, install oil seal and wear sleeve. Refer to section
1.8.5.
1.8.5 Installation of Crankshaft Oil Sleeve
Install an oil sleeve as follows:

1. Stone the high spots from the oil seal contact surface of the crankshaft.
2. Coat the area of the shaft where the sleeve will be positioned with Permatex No. 3, or
equivalent.
3. Press the sleeve on the shaft. Use oil seal sleeve installer J 21983 or J 4194-01, as
required. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
4. Wipe off the excess sealant.
1.8.6 Installation of Front Oil Seal
Install the front oil seal as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Liberally lubricate the seal inner diameter and the crankshaft with clean SAE 30 or 40
weight engine oil.
NOTE:
The vibration damper inner cone or the oil seal spacer must be removed from 6V or 8V
engines before installing the oil seal. Once installed, lubricate the spacer.

2. Position the seal in the front cover or trunnion with the seal lip facing the inner face of
the cover.
3. Drive a new oil seal into the crankshaft front cover on 6V or 8V engines with tool J 9783.
This tool seats the oil seal in the bore.
NOTE:
The tool is designed to drive only on the outer edge of the seal casing to prevent damage
to the seal. No handle is required.
4. On 12V or 16V front cover and trunnion mount, install the crankshaft front cover and
trunnion bearing support. Refer to section 1.14.5.
5. On non-trunnion mount 12V and 16V engines, place the oil seal expander J 22425-B
(standard sized seal) or J 4195-01 (oversized seal) on the front end of the crankshaft
to avoid damage to the oil seal lip. No handles or guide studs are required with Tool
J 4195-01.
6. Drive or press the oil seal in a 12V or 16V engine front cover and trunnion with tool
J 9727-A, handle J 3154-1A, and guide studs J 9727-5 (from set J 9727-A). This tool seats
the oil seal in the bore.
7. Install the required vibration damper inner core, oil seal spacer, or vibration damper hub.
NOTE:
A revised crankshaft oil seal expander, J 22425-B, has been released to facilitate the
installation of standard sized front crankshaft oil seals on 12V and 16V engines. It can
be used to install standard sized rear crankshaft oil seals on 6V, 8V, and 12V engines.
Guide stud set J 25002 is used to hold the expander in place during seal installation,
instead of O-rings. Flywheel dowel pins are no longer installed in the crankshafts.
Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION to update tool J 25002 to J 22425-B.
1.8.7 Installation of Rear Oil Seal Method A
Install crankshaft rear oil seal using method A as follows:

2. Place oil seal expander J 4239 (standard seal) against the end of the crankshaft. Use
handle J 8092 and guide studs J 25002 with the expander. Use expander J 8682 for an
oversized seal. Do not use a handle or guide studs with expander J 8682.

NOTICE:
Failure to adequately lubricate the inner diameter seal, the
crankshaft or crankshaft oil seal sleeve, if used, and the
crankshaft oil expander during installation can result in seal lip
damage at engine start up.
NOTICE:
Series 92 crankshaft oil seals are made of an oil-resistant
synthetic silicone rubber that is precoated with a special
lubricant. Keep this seal lip clean and free from scratches. Do
not remove the plastic sealant coating. Doing so will cause seal
lip damage.
USED ENGINE OIL

3. On non-Teflon oil seals, liberally lubricate the inner diameter seal, the crankshaft or the
crankshaft oil seal sleeve, if used, and the crankshaft oil seal expander with clean SAE 30
or 40 weight engine oil.
4. Install Teflon lip seals dry. This allows Teflon to transfer to the crankshaft or wear sleeve
for proper sealing.
5. With the seal lip toward the engine, slide the seal over the expander and onto the
crankshaft.
6. Remove the seal expander and guide studs.
NOTICE:
Unidirectional crankshaft rear oil seals are designated for use
on either right-hand or left-hand rotating engines. An arrow
imprinted on the seal case indicates the direction of crankshaft
rotation. Failure to observe crankshaft rotation and install
the correct unidirectional seal on an engine will result in seal
damage and/or serious oil leakage.
7. Using handle J 3154-1A, install crankshaft rear oil seal installer J 21112-B and guide
studs J 9727-5 (from set J 9727-A).

8. Drive the seal in place until the installer seats squarely on the butt of the crankshaft.
See Figure 1-87.
Figure 1-87 Installing Crankshaft Rear Seal with Installer Set J 21112-B and
Handle J 3154-1A
9. Remove the seal installer and guide studs.

10. Remove any excess sealant from the flywheel housing and the seal.
1.8.7.1 Test Seal Installation
Ensure seal fits squarely in relation to the crankshaft face as follows:
NOTE:
Before performing the following steps, pry the crankshaft toward one end of the block to
ensure end play is in one direction only.

1. Attach magnetic base dial indicator J 7872 to the rear butt of the crankshaft. See Figure
1-88.
1. Crankshaft 3. Magnetic Base Dial Indicator

2. Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
Figure 1-88 Checking Crankshaft for Seal Squareness
2. Position the point of the dial indicator on the seal face.
NOTICE:
To avoid serious engine damage, always bar the engine
clockwise. Ensure the bolt does not loosen.
3. Rotate the crankshaft and note the seal face readings at the 12, 9, 6 and 3 o'clock positions.
The total run-out at each position should not exceed 0.38 mm (0.015 in.).
NOTE:
If any reading is over 0.38 mm (0.015 in.), place the seal installer J 21112-B over the
seal, and lightly tap with a soft-faced hammer at the high points.
1.8.8 Installation of Rear Oil Seal Method B
Install the crankshaft rear oil seal sleeve with method B as follows:
1. Install guide stud set J 25002 into the crankshaft butt end.
2. Apply a thin, even coat of Permatex No. 3, or equivalent, to the inside diameter of the
oversized wear sleeve.

3. Using crankshaft oil seal sleeve installer J 21983 and handle J 8092, drive the sleeve
onto the crankshaft butt.
NOTE:
Install Teflon lip seals dry. This allows Teflon to transfer to the crankshaft or wear sleeve
for proper sealing.
4. Wipe off excess sealant.

5. Using oil seal installer J 21112-B and handle J 3154-1A, drive the seal into place.
6. Remove the guide studs from the end of the crankshaft.
7. Remove any excess sealant from the flywheel housing and the seal.
1.8.8.1 Testing of Seal Installation
To minimize the chance of crankshaft rear oil seal leakage, the seal must be square in relation to
the flywheel housing face. Verify as follows:
1. Attach magnetic base dial indicator J 7872 to the crankshaft rear butt.
2. Position the dial indicator point at the outer perimeter of the seal face.
3. Rotate the crankshaft and not the seal face readings at the 12, 9, 6, and 3 o'clock positions.
The total run-out across the entire seal should not exceed 0.38 mm (0.015 in.).
4. If any reading is over 0.38 mm (0.015 in.), place seal installer J 9727-A over the seal.
5. Lightly tap the edge of the installer with a soft-faced hammer at the high points.
6. Take the dial readings.
7. If the seal cannot be brought within specifications using this method, replace it with a new
seal. Ensure the new seal is square in relation to the flywheel housing face.

1.9 CRANKSHAFT CAP
On engines without a crankshaft pulley, a crankshaft cap is installed on the front end of the
crankshaft. See Figure 1-89. The crankshaft cap securely fastens the vibration damper assembly
to the crankshaft, or when no vibration damper is used, the cap secures the oil seal spacer. A
special bolt and washer attaches the cap to the crankshaft.
1. Bolt 3. Crankshaft Cap

2. Washer
Figure 1-89 Crankshaft Cap Mounting
Engines incorporating a crankshaft pulley use a bolt and a special flat washer to retain the pulley
in place. The bolt has a 7/32 in. center drill in the head for use with a hand tachometer.
PERSONAL INJURY
system.
NOTICE:
The hex head of the crankshaft bolt may be used to bar, or
turn, the crankshaft. The barring operation should ALWAYS be
performed clockwise. Make certain that the bolt has not been
loosened during the barring operation. Serious engine damage

1.9 CRANKSHAFT CAP
NOTICE:
may result if the vibration damper or pulley is not securely
fastened to the crankshaft.
Crankshaft bolts are Lubrite®-coated to prevent possible bolt thread galling and to increase the
clamp load on the front end stack up (crankshaft pulley, vibration damper, etc.). The washer
(retainer) is case hardened.
1.9.1 Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft Cap

See Figure 1-90.
Figure 1-90 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft Cap

1.9.2 Removal of Crankshaft Cap
Remove the crankshaft cap as follows:

1. Remove the bolt and washer.
2. Remove the crankshaft cap.
1.9.2.1 Inspection of Crankshaft Cap
Inspect the crankshaft cap for cracks or other physical damage.

1. Visually inspect the crankshaft cap bolt for thread galling and bolt damage.
[a] If galled or damaged, replace the bolt.
[b] If no galling or damage is evident, reuse the bolt.
2. Visually inspect for cap damage.
[a] If damaged, replace the cap.
[b] If not damaged, reuse the cap.
1.9.3 Installation of Crankshaft Cap
Install the crankshaft cap as follows:

1. Install the cap.
2. Install the washer and bolt.
3. Tighten the crankshaft cap retaining bolt as follows:
[a] Tighten the bolt to 244 N·m (180 lb·ft) torque.
[b] Strike the end of the bolt once with a 2 to 3 lb. lead hammer.
[c] Tighten the bolt to 407 N·m (300 lb·ft) torque, and strike the bolt again.
[d] Tighten the bolt to 393-421 N·m (290-310 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
Do not strike the bolt after the final torque has been applied.

1.10 CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SHELLS
The crankshaft main bearing shells are precision made and are replaceable without machining.
See Figure 1-91. They consist of an upper bearing shell seated in each cylinder block main
bearing support and a lower bearing shell seated in each main bearing cap. The upper and lower
bearing shells are located in the block and bearing cap respectively. A tang at the parting line of
each bearing shell holds them in place. The tangs on the lower bearing shells are off-center and
the tangs on the upper bearing shells are centered to aid correct installation.
1. Crankshaft 4. Main Bearing Bolt

2. Lower Main Bearing Shell 5. Main Bearing Cap
3. Thrust Washers 6. Cylinder Block
Figure 1-91 Main Bearing Caps, Bearing Shells and Thrust Washers

A through slot in each upper bearing shell registers with a vertical oil passage in the cylinder
block. Pressurized lubricating oil passes from the cylinder block oil gallery, by way of the
bearing shells, to the drilled passage in the crankshaft. It flows from the drilled passages to
the connecting rod bearings.
Since the lower main bearing shells have no oil grooves, the upper and lower bearing shells
must not be interchanged.
Thrust washers, positioned on each side of the rear main bearing, absorb the crankshaft thrust.
The lower halves of the two-piece washers are doweled to the bearing cap. The upper halves
are not doweled.
Since all of the main bearing load is carried on the lower bearings, wear will occur on the
lower bearing shells first. Remove the main bearing caps to observe the condition of the lower
bearing shells.
Bearing cap stabilizers are used at all main bearing cap positions on the 6V, 8V, 12V, and 16V
engine cylinder blocks. See Figure 1-92.
Figure 1-92 Stabilizers Mounted on Back and Main Bearing Caps (6V and
8V Engines)
The main bearing cap has a press fit of 0.005-0.107 mm (0.0002-0.0042 in.) in the main bearing
saddle area of the cylinder block. The saddle area is 213.792-213.843 mm (8.4170-8.4190 in.)
and the width of the bearing cap is 214.102-213.898 mm (8.4292-8.4212 in.). The press fit allows
main bearing cap installation on the block and maintenance of specified bore alignment.

1.10.1 Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft Main Bearing Shells

See Figure 1-93.
Figure 1-93 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft Main Bearing

Shells

1.10.2 Removal of Crankshaft Main Bearing Shells
Remove the crankshaft main bearing shells as follows:
NOTE:
All crankshaft main bearing journals, except the rear journal, have a drilled oil passage.
The procedure for removing the upper bearing shells with the crankshaft in place is
somewhat different for drilled journals than for the rear journal.
NOTE:
The bearing caps are numbered 1, 2, 3, etc., indicating their respective positions. When
removed, they must be installed in their original position.
1. Drain the oil pan. Refer to section 13.5.2.

2. Remove the oil pan to expose the main bearing caps. Refer to section 3.11.3.
3. Remove the oil pump and the oil inlet and outlet pipe assemblies. Refer to section 3.2.2.
NOTE:
If shims are used between the oil pump and the main bearing caps, save the shims.
Install them in exactly the same location.
4. Remove one main bearing cap stabilizer at a time. Place washers (equal to the thickness of
the stabilizer) on the bearing cap bolts, and install the bolts.

Remove one main bearing cap at a time, and remove the bearing shells. See Figure 1-94.
1. Main Bearing Caps 5. Stabilizer

2. Main Bearing Cap Bolts 6. Cylinder Block
3. Stabilizer Block Mounting Bolt 7. Crankshaft
4. Special Washer
Figure 1-94 Removal/Installation of Main Bearing Stabilizers
1. To remove all upper main bearing shells except the rear main upper bearing shell, insert
a 5/16 in. x 1 in. bolt with a 1/2 in. diameter and a 1/16 in. thick head (made from a
standard bolt) into the crankshaft journal oil hole.
NOTE:
Install each bearing shell and bearing cap before removing another bearing cap.

2. Revolve the shaft to the right (clockwise), and roll the bearing shell out of position.
See Figure 1-95. The head of the bolt must not extend beyond the outside diameter of the
bearing shell.
1. Upper Main Bearing Shell 3. Oil Journal Hole

2. Cylinder Block
Figure 1-95 Set-Up for Removing Upper Main Bearing Shell

3. Tap on the edge of the bearing with a small curved rod, revolving the crankshaft at the
same time to roll the bearing shell out. See Figure 1-96.
1. Upper Main Bearing Shell 3. Cylinder Liner

2. Crankshaft
Figure 1-96 Removal of Upper Main Bearing Shells
4. The lower halves of the crankshaft thrust washers will be removed with the rear main
bearing cap. Push on the ends of the washers upper halves with a small rod, forcing them
around and out of the main bearing support.
1.10.2.1 Inspection of Crankshaft Main Bearings
Perform inspection of crankshaft main bearing as follows:

1. Analyze the lubricating oil for corrosive acid and sulfur. Refer to section 5.2.1.9 and
refer to section13.5.4.
[a] If contaminated with acid, replace the oil. Refer to section 13.5.4.
[b] If not contaminated with acid, proceed with the inspection.
2. Inspect oil for contamination or oil loss.
[a] If contaminated, replace the oil. Refer to section 13.5.1.
[b] If oil loss is indicated, determine and correct its cause.

[c] If not contaminated and no oil has been lost, proceed with the inspection.
NOTE:
Bearing failures may result from deterioration (acid formation), contamination, or oil loss.
These cause acid etching, flaking and pitting. Bearing seizure may be due to low or no oil.
3. Check the oil filter elements for damage or wear.

[a] If damaged or worn, replace the oil filter elements. Refer to section 3.6.5.
[b] If not damaged or worn, continue with inspection.
4. Check the oil bypass valve to ensure it operates freely and is not plugged.
[a] If plugged, clean or replace as necessary. Refer to section 3.9.2.1.
[b] If oil bypass valve is not plugged and operates freely, proceed with inspection.
5. Inspect the bearings for scoring, pitting, flaking, etching, babbitt loss, or signs of
overheating. See Figure 1-97.
Figure 1-97 Comparison of Lower Main Bearing Shells
NOTE:
The lower bearing shells, that carry the load, will normally show signs of distress before
the upper bearing shells. Babbitt plated bearings may develop minute cracks or small
isolated cavities on the bearing surface during engine operation. The bearing function is
in no way impaired. Do not replace them for these minor surface imperfections.
[a] If excessively scored, pitted, flaking, etched, and overheated, replace the bearings.

[b] If the bearings are not scored, pitted, flaking, etched, or overheated, continue
inspection.
6. Inspect the bearing shells for sufficient "crush."
NOTE:
The bearing shells do not form a true circle. When installed, they have a squeeze fit in
the main bearing bore and must be tight when the bearing cap is down. This "crush"
assures a tight, uniform contact between the bearing shell and bearing seat. If bearing
shells do not have sufficient "crush," they will not have uniform contact, as shown by
shiny spots on the back.
[a] If the bearing shells do not have sufficient "crush," they must be replaced.
[b] If the bearing shells have sufficient "crush," continue inspection.
NOTE:
Bearing shells are NOT reworkable from one undersize to another under any
circumstances.
7. Inspect the crankshaft journals for bending fatigue and cracks from damaged bearings.
Refer to section 1.7.2.2.
NOTE:
If a new or reground crankshaft is to be used, install all new bearing shells.
[a] If the journals are bent or cracked, replace the crankshaft. Refer to section 1.7.4.
[b] If the journals are not bent or cracked, proceed with inspection.
8. Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scoring and wear.
[a] If the washers are scored or excessively worn, they must be replaced. Refer to section
1.10.3.
[b] If the washers are not scored or excessively worn, continue inspection.
9. Check the crankshaft end play.
[a] If the crankshaft end play is excessive, replace the thrust washers. Refer to section
1.10.3.
[b] If the crankshaft end play is not excessive, continue inspection.
10. Inspect the crankshaft thrust surfaces. Refer to section 1.7.2.2.
[a] If surfaces are slightly damaged, grind the thrust surfaces. Refer to section 1.10.3.
[b] If excessively damaged, replace the crankshaft. Refer to section 1.10.3.

[c] If the crankshaft thrust surfaces are not damaged, proceed with inspection.
NOTE:
Improper clutch adjustment can contribute to excessive thrust washer wear. If, after
dressing or regrinding the thrust surfaces, new standard size thrust washers do not hold
the crankshaft end play within the specified limits, it may be necessary to install oversize
thrust washers on one or both sides of the rear main bearing. A new standard size thrust
washer is 2.227-3.099 mm (0.1190-0.1220 in.) thick. Thrust washers are available in
0.005 in. and 0.010 in. oversize.
11. Inspect the main bearing bores alignment.

[a] If the main bearing bores are not aligned when a replacement bearing cap is used, the
block must be line-bored. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
[b] If the main bearing bores are aligned, proceed with inspection.
1.10.2.2 Inspection of Main Bearing Shells
Inspect the bearing shells as follows:
NOTE:
Do not replace one main bearing shell by itself. If one bearing shell requires replacement,
install all new upper and lower shells.
1. Inspect the backs of the bearing shells for shiny spots.
NOTE:
Bright spots indicate that they have been moving in the bearing caps or bearing supports.
[a] If spots are evident, replace the bearing shells. Refer to section 1.10.3.
[b] If not spotted, continue inspection.

2. Measure the thickness of the bearing shells at point "C," 90 degrees from the parting
line. See Figure 1-98 and see Figure 1-99.
Figure 1-98 Main Bearing Shell Measurements
1. Bearing Shell 2. Micrometer
Figure 1-99 Measuring Thickness of Bearing Shell with Micrometer

3. Place tool J 4757 between the bearing shell and a micrometer to get an accurate
measurement.
NOTE:
The bearing shell thickness is the total thickness of the steel ball in the tool and the
bearing shell, less the ball diameter. The minimum thickness of a worn standard main
bearing shell is 3.912 mm (0.1540 in.). A new standard bearing shell has a thickness of
3.924-3.9421 mm (0.1545-0.1552 in.). See bearing dimensions listed in Table 1-6.
Bearing Size Bearing Thickness Minimum Thickness

3.92 mm / 3.94 mm 3.91 mm
Standard
(0.1545 in. / 0.1552 in.) (0.154 in.)
4.05 mm / 4.07 mm 4.04 mm
0.010 in. Undersize
(0.1595 in. / 0.1602 in.) (0.159 in.)
4.18 mm / 4.20 mm 4.17 mm
0.020 in. Undersize
(0.1645 in. / 0.1652 in.) (0.164 in.)
4.31 mm / 4.32 mm 4.83 mm
0.030 in. Undersize
(0.1695 in. / 0.1702 in.) (0.169 in.)
Table 1-6 Bearing Dimensions
[a] If any bearing shell is thinner than this dimension, replace all bearing shells.
[b] If the bearing shells measurements are within the specified dimensions, continue
inspection.
1.10.2.3 Inspection of Main Bearing Shells and Crankshaft Journal
Check the clearance between the main bearings and the crankshaft journals as follows:
1. Place a soft plastic measuring strip between the journal and the bearing when the
crankshaft is in place. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
2. When the crankshaft is removed, measure the outside diameter of the crankshaft main
bearing journals and the inside diameter of the main bearing shells, in place and with
the proper torque on the bearing cap bolts.
NOTE:
When installed, the bearing shells are 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) larger in diameter at the
parting line than at 90 degrees from the parting line.
[a] If the clearance between any crankshaft journal and its bearing shells exceeds 0.152
mm (0.0060 in.), all bearing shells must be discarded and replaced. Refer to section
1.10.3.
NOTE:
New part clearance is 0.041-0.127 mm (0.0016-0.0050 in.).

[b] If the clearance indicates slight journal wear, slightly grind the journal and replace
bearing shell with an undersize bearing shell.
NOTE:
Undersized bearing shells are available in 0.010 in., 0.020 in. and 0.030 in. sizes
for service with reground crankshafts. To determine the bearing size required,
refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION Crankshaft Grinding. Ensure the correct
bearing-to-journal clearances are maintained when using these parts.
[c] If the clearance is within specification, reuse the crankshaft main bearings.
1.10.3 Installation of Crankshaft Main Bearing Shells
Install the crankshaft main bearing as follows:

1. Ensure all of the parts are clean.
USED ENGINE OIL

2. Apply clean engine oil around each crankshaft bearing journal.
NOTE:
Upper and lower bearing shells are serviced only in sets. Do not replace one main
bearing shell by itself. If one bearing shell requires replacement, install all new upper
and lower bearing shells. If a new or reground crankshaft is to be used, install all new
bearing shells.
NOTE:
The upper and lower main bearing shells are not alike. The upper shell has a through
slot for lubrication, the lower shell does not. Ensure the installation of the grooved slot
shells are in the cylinder block and the plain bearing shells are in the bearing caps. The
oil flow to the bearings and to the upper end of the connecting rods will be blocked off.
NOTE:
Used bearing shells must be installed on the same journal from which they were removed.
3. When installing an upper main bearing shell with the crankshaft in place, start the plain
end of the shell around the crankshaft journal so that, when the bearing is in place, the
tang will fit into the groove in the bearing support.

4. Install the lower main bearing shell so that the tang on the bearing fits into the groove in
the bearing cap. See Figure 1-100.
1. Crankshaft 4. Main Bearing Bolt

2. Lower Main Bearing Shell 5. Main Bearing Cap
3. Thrust Washers 6. Cylinder Block
Figure 1-100 Installation of Main Bearing Caps, Bearing Shells and Thrust
Washers
NOTE:
Clean both halves of the thrust washer carefully and remove any burrs from the washer
seats. The slightest burr or particle of dirt may decrease the clearance between the
washers and the crankshaft beyond the specified limit. Slide the upper halves of the
thrust washers into place.

5. Assemble the crankshaft thrust washers before installing the rear main bearing cap.
Assemble the lower halves over the dowel pins in the bearing cap.
NOTE:
The main bearing caps are bored in position and marked 1, 2, 3, etc. They must be
installed in their original positions in the cylinder block.
6. Lubricate the threads on the former bolts and the bolt head contact area with a small
quantity of International Compound No. 2, or equivalent. On the current bolts, lubricate
the threads and both sides of the "captured" hardened washer.

7. Install the bearing caps and bearing cap stabilizers, and tighten the bolts. See Figure 1-101.
1. Main Bearing Caps 5. Stabilizer

2. Main Bearing Cap Bolts 6. Cylinder Block
3. Stabilizer Block Mounting Bolt 7. Crankshaft
4. Special Washer
Figure 1-101 Installation of Main Bearing Stabilizers
8. Strike the caps sharply with a soft hammer to seat them properly.
NOTE:
The former and new main bearing cap bolts should not be intermixed.
9. Tighten all of the former main bearing cap bolts (except the rear main bearing cap bolts)
to 339-352 N·m (250-260 lb·ft) torque starting with the center bearing cap bolts and

working alternately towards both ends of the block. Tighten the new bolts (these require a
15/16 in. socket) to 312-325 N·m (230-240 lb·ft) torque.
10. Tighten the rear main bearing cap bolts to 54-68 N·m (40-50 lb·ft) torque.
11. Strike both ends of the crankshaft two or three times with a soft hammer to ensure proper
rear main bearing cap seating in the block saddle.
12. Refer to step 9 and retorque all bearing cap bolts to the torque specified in that step
(including the rear main bearing cap bolts).
13. Tighten the 7/16 in. -14 stabilizer bolts to 95-102 N·m (70-75 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
If the bearings have been installed properly, the crankshaft will turn freely with all of the
main bearing cap bolts drawn to the specified torque.
14. Check the crankshaft end play. Refer to section 1.7.2.2.

15. Install the lubricating oil pump and the oil inlet and outlet pipe assemblies. Refer to section
3.2.9.
NOTE:
If shims were used between the pump and the bearing caps, install them in their original
positions. Check the oil pump gear clearance. Refer to section 3.2.10.
16. Install a new gasket on the oil pan.

17. Install the oil pan. Refer to section 3.11.3.
18. Fill the crankcase to the proper level on the dipstick with the recommended grade and
viscosity lubricating oil. Refer to section 13.5.1.
19. Operate the engine on a run-in schedule. Refer to section 11.6.

1.11 ENGINE FRONT COVER
The engine front cover is mounted against the cylinder block at the lower front end of the engine.
See Figure 1-102. It serves as a retainer for the crankshaft front oil seal. On 6V and 8V engines,
the cover houses the lubricating oil pump. Supports attached to the front cover support the engine.
1. Lower Front Cover 3. Cylinder Block Assembly

2. Crankshaft
Figure 1-102 Engine Front Cover Mounting (6V and 8V Engines)
When the engine is overhauled or the crankshaft is removed or installed, the engine front cover
must be removed. The front cover must be removed to service the lubricating oil pump on 6V
and 8V engines. If the front cover is used with trunnion mounts, it must be removed to replace
the crankshaft front oil seal.

1.11.1 Repair or Replacement of Engine Front Cover

See Figure 1-103.
Figure 1-103 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Engine Front Cover
1.11.2 Removal of Engine Front Cover
Remove the front cover as follows:

1. Drain the oil. Refer to section 13.5.2.
2. Remove the four oil pan-to-front cover attaching bolts and lock washers. Loosen all
remaining oil pan bolts.

NOTICE:
Do not damage the gasket. If damaged, the oil pan will have to
be removed and the gasket will have to be replaced.
3. Lower the oil pan and gasket approximately 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) at the front end of the
engine.
4. Remove the crankshaft pulley. Refer to section 1.15.2.
5. Remove the vibration damper, if used. Refer to section 1.14.2.
6. Remove the vibration damper inner cone or oil seal spacer.
7. Disconnect the lubricating oil pump inlet tube at the bottom of the front cover on 6V or
8V engines. Refer to section 3.2.6.
8. Remove the cover-to-cylinder block attaching bolts. Refer to section 1.1.2.
9. Strike the edges of the cover alternately on each side with a soft hammer to free it from
the dowels.
10. Pull the cover straight off the crankshaft.
11. Remove the gasket from the cover or the cylinder block.
12. Replace the oil seal. Refer to section 1.8.6.
1.11.2.1 Inspection of Engine Front Cover
Inspect the front cover as follows:

1. Inspect the front cover for damage.
[a] If damaged, replace the cover.
[b] If not damaged, reuse the cover.
1.11.3 Installation of Engine Front Cover
Prior to installing the engine front cover, install the oil pump and the oil seal (6V and 8V
engines). Refer to section 3.2.11.

See Figure 1-104, and install the front cover as follows:
1. Front Cover 8. Drive Gear

2. Lock Washer 9. Retaining Plate
3. Lower Front Cover Bolts 10. Rear Plate Bolt
4. Oil Seal 11. Drive Hub
5. Bolt 12. Keyway
6. Lock Washers 13. Driven Gear
7. Gasket 14. Shaft
Figure 1-104 Lower Front Cover (6V and 8V Engines)
1. Affix a new gasket to the inner face of the cover.

USED ENGINE OIL

NOTICE:
Failure to adequately lubricate the seal inner diameter, the
crankshaft, and the crankshaft oil seal during seal installation
can result in seal lip damage at engine start-up.
2. Liberally lubricate the seal inner diameter, the crankshaft, and the crankshaft oil seal
expander with clean SAE 40 or 30 weight engine oil.
3. Install the front cover using oil seal expander J 22425-B with guide studs J 25002
(standard size seal) or J 4195-01 (oversize seal) to pilot oil seal over the crankshaft.
NOTE:
The cover should be over the crankshaft and up against the cylinder block.
4. Remove the oil seal expander.

5. Install the cover attaching bolts and lock washers. Tighten the 3/8 in.-16 bolts to
34-41 N·m (25-30 lb·ft) torque and the 1/2 in.-13 bolts to 108-122 N·m (80-90 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
Studs are provided on certain engines to allow installation of front support and idler
pulley mounting brackets.
USED ENGINE OIL

6. Apply engine oil to the vibration damper inner cone or oil seal spacer. Slide it onto the
crankshaft.
7. Affix a new gasket to the flange on the oil pump inlet tube (6V or 8V engines). Attach
the tube to the bottom of the engine cover.
8. Install the four oil pan-to-front cover attaching bolts and lock washers. Tighten all oil pan
attaching bolts to 20-27 N·m (15-20 lb·ft) torque.
9. Install the vibration damper. Refer to section 1.14.4.
10. Install the crankshaft pulley. Refer to section 1.15.3.

11. Fill the crankcase with oil to the proper level on the dipstick. Refer to section 13.5.1.

1.12 CRANKSHAFT OUTBOARD BEARING SUPPORT (TRUNNION)
A crankshaft outboard bearing support (trunnion) is provided on 12V and 16V industrial engines
to give additional frontal support to the crankshaft. See Figure 1-105. The bearing support
(trunnion), which is attached to the engine front cover, incorporates a clevite bearing (bushing).
The trunnion serves as a retainer for the crankshaft front oil seal. Oil seal rings (O-rings) are used
between the engine front cover and the bearing support.
1. Split Line 3. Oil Hole

2. Bearing 4. Oil Passage
Figure 1-105 Outboard Bearing Support (Trunnion)
If a rear outboard bearing support is installed on the engine, a special rear crankshaft half is used
to supply oil from the rear main bearing to the rear outboard support bearing.

Bearing and crankshaft lubrication are provided from the engine front oil gallery, through an
external oil tube, to a drilled and tapped oil passage in the bearing support. See Figure 1-106.
1. Trunnion Support 8. Bearing Support (Trunnion)

2. Oil Seal 9. Seal Ring
3. Outboard Bearing 10. Vibration Damper
4. Cup Plug 11. Bearing Support Cap
5. Crankshaft 12. Bearing Support Cushions
6. Seal Ring 13. Vibration Damper Hub
7. Front Cover 14. Oil Seal Sleeve
The bearing support should not require any servicing, except for bearing or oil seal replacement,
when necessary. When bearing replacement is required, remove the bearing support.

1.12.1 Repair or Replacement of the Outboard Bearing Support

(Trunnion)

See Figure 1-107.
Figure 1-107 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of the Outboard Bearing

Support (Trunnion)
1.12.2 Removal of the Front Outboard Bearing Support (Trunnion)
Remove the front trunnion as follows:

1. Remove the trunnion (engine) support. See Figure 1-108.
1. Trunnion Support 8. Bearing Support (Trunnion)

2. Oil Seal 9. Seal Ring
3. Outboard Bearing 10. Vibration Damper
4. Cup Plug 11. Bearing Support Cap
5. Crankshaft 12. Bearing Support Cushions
6. Seal Ring 13. Vibration Damper Hub
7. Front Cover 14. Oil Seal Sleeve
2. Remove the outboard bearing to cylinder block oil tube.

3. Remove the outboard bearing support (trunnion).

1.12.3 Removal of Rear Outboard Support Bearing (Trunnion)
Remove a rear outboard support bearing as follows:

1. Remove flywheel. Refer to section 1.16.2.
2. Remove the rear outboard bearing bolts.
3. Remove the outboard bearing.
1.12.3.1 Inspection of Outboard Bearing Support (Trunnion)
Inspect the outboard bearing support as follows:

1. Inspect the bearing in the support for damage.
[a] If damaged, replace the bearing and the oil seal. Refer to section 1.8.6.
[b] If the bearing is not damaged, reuse the trunnion.
1.12.4 Installation of Front Outboard Bearing Support (Trunnion)
Install the front trunnion as follows:
NOTICE:
When installing a new bearing, press the bearing in flush with
the outer surface of the support. Ensure the lubricating hole in
the bearing lines up with the drilled oil passage, and the split
line in the bearing is at the bottom of the support. If installed
incorrectly, oil fed to the bearing and crankshaft will be blocked
off, consequently causing engine damage.
1. Install a new large seal (O-ring) and six new small seal rings on the back side of the
bearing support (trunnion).
USED ENGINE OIL

2. Lubricate the bearing and oil seal lip with clean engine oil. Guide the bearing support
over the crankshaft.
3. Tighten the top two middle inboard and bottom two middle bolts.

4. Using a soft faced mallet, strike the trunnion firmly on the top center of the housing to
drive it downward.
NOTE:
All vertical crankshaft-to-bearing clearances should be at the bottom of the crankshaft.
Clearance from side to side should be visually centered. Adjust, if necessary.
5. Tighten all bolts with a hand wrench. Torque them to 95-102 N·m (70-75 lb·ft).
6. Install the bearing support-to-cylinder block oil line.
NOTE:
Ensure the line is clean and free of obstructions.
USED ENGINE OIL

7. Fill the drilled feed hole in the support with clean engine oil before connecting the line.
8. Install the trunnion support with two 5/8 in.-11 bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts
to 186-200 N·m (137-147 lb·ft) torque.
9. Install hub and vibration damper. Refer to section 1.14.4.
10. Prelubricate the oil seal sleeve before installing the hub.
11. Install the hub.
1.12.5 Installation of Rear Outboard Bearing Support (Trunnion)
Install the rear outboard bearing support as follows:

2. Rotate the crankshaft so that the maximum run-out of the bearing surface is down.
NOTE:
The rear outboard shaft bearing will be installed in a line-to-line condition with the
crankshaft in this position.
3. Mount a magnetic base dial indicator on the flywheel housing with the indicator tip on the
bottom of the crankshaft rear outboard bearing surface.
4. Rotate the crankshaft, and determine the maximum run-out location.
NOTE:
The actual amount of measured run-out is not important at this point.

5. Rotate the crankshaft until the maximum run-out point is on the bottom, or at the
6:00 o'clock position.
NOTE:
Do not rotate the crankshaft from this position until rear outboard shaft bearing
installation is complete.
USED ENGINE OIL

6. Apply a film of clean engine oil to the outside diameter of the seal, and press it flush
to the support.
NOTE:
The lip or open side of the seal should face the bushing in the bearing support assembly.
7. Apply a thin film of Lubriplate, or equivalent, to the rear outboard shaft bearing-to-flywheel
housing seal ring. Place the ring on the back of the bearing support assembly in the
counterbore of the flywheel housing.
NOTE:
The outboard bearing support assembly is adjustable in the flywheel housing. It should
be positioned upward to the crankshaft when the engine is in the upright position without
lifting the crankshaft.
NOTE:
To ensure the crankshaft is not lifted off the rear main bearing, place a magnetic base
dial indicator on the flywheel housing directly above the vertical axis of the crankshaft.
Position the indicator probe on the top portion of the crankshaft that protrudes from
the rear outboard shaft bearing. The indicator reading must remain unchanged while
adjusting the outboard bearing. Under no circumstances should the indicator show
that the crankshaft has moved.
8. Install the bolts and washers to hold the bearing support assembly in place, but do not
tighten.
9. Lift upward on the bearing support assembly by hand until the bearing just contacts the
crankshaft. Tighten the twelve bolts to 47-61 N·m (35-45 lb·ft) torque.
10. Check the dial indicator to ensure the crankshaft has not been lifted.

11. Using a 1/4 in. feeler gage, check the clearance between the bearing and the crankshaft.
NOTE:
The largest clearance must occur at the top on the vertical axis and must not be less than
0.08 mm (0.003 in.) or more than 0.25 mm (0.010 in.). There should be no clearance at
the bottom (a line-to-line condition) or not more than 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.). Clearances
at the sides should be approximately equal.
NOTE:
If top and bottom clearance requirements are not met, loosen the bolts slightly and pry
up on the bearing support assembly until clearance requirements are obtained. Ensure
the crankshaft is not lifted during this adjustment.
USED ENGINE OIL

12. Lightly coat the sleeve on the flywheel assembly with clean engine oil.
13. Install two guide studs in the rear of the crankshaft.
14. Attach a flywheel lifting tool, and using a chain hoist, position the flywheel into the
flywheel housing.
15. Align flywheel bolt holes with crankshaft bolt holes and push the flywheel in evenly to
prevent damage to the oil seal.
16. Install flywheel. Refer to section 1.16.5.

1.13 CRANKSHAFT REAR OUTBOARD BEARING SUPPORT
A rear outboard bearing support is provided on certain current 16V engines for generator set
applications. See Figure 1-109. The support assembly is mounted in the flywheel housing to
improve the ability of the engine rear crankshaft main bearing to sustain loads and bending
forces externally induced by drive components.
Figure 1-109 Rear Outboard Bearing Support Assembly
The outboard bearing support assembly incorporates the bearing support and a crankshaft
outboard bushing.
The support assembly also serves as a retainer for the crankshaft rear oil seal. This seal is not
supplied with the support assembly but is serviced as a separate item. A seal ring is used on the
back of the support assembly that fits between the support assembly and the flywheel housing.

The flywheel housing is counterbored to accommodate the outboard bearing support assembly.
See Figure 1-110.
Figure 1-110 Flywheel Housing with Counterbore

The flywheel incorporates an oil seal sleeve for the crankshaft oil seal. See Figure 1-111. The
rear crankshaft oil seal, mounted in the outboard support, seals on the oil seal sleeve instead of
the crankshaft.
1. Sleeve
Figure 1-111 Flywheel Assembly

A different crankshaft timing gear is used in this application. See Figure 1-112. The timing gear
used on engines with a rear outboard bearing support has a narrower flange and uses 7/8 in. long
bolts instead of the 1 in. long bolts used on non-outboard support applications. The new timing
gear is attached to the flywheel using six 3/8-24 x 7/8 bolts and torqued to 47-53 N·m (35-39 lb·ft).
1. Rear Crankshaft Timing Gear 2. Cylinder Block
Figure 1-112 Rear Crankshaft Timing Gear
NOTICE:
For the rear outboard support to function properly, the engine is
equipped with a special rear crankshaft half to supply pressure
lubrication to the bearing support. The rear crankshaft half of
engines without a rear outboard support is not to be used on
engines with a rear outboard bearing support, since the resulting

NOTICE:
lack of lubrication will cause severe bearing damage. See Figure
1-113 for an illustration of the rear outboard bearing support.
1. Outboard Bearing Support 6. Bushing

2. Crankshaft Oil Seal 7. Timing Gear
3. Sleeve 8. Crankshaft Gear
4. Flywheel 9. Outboard Bearing Support Seal
5. Drilled Oil Passage in Crankshaft End 10. Flywheel Housing
Figure 1-113 Lubrication of the Rear Outboard Bearing Support (Current

Engines)

1.13.1 Repair or Replacement of Rear Outboard Bearing Support

See Figure 1-114.
Figure 1-114 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Rear Outboard

Bearing Support
1.13.2 Removal of Rear Outboard Bearing Support
Remove the rear outboard bearing support as follows:

1. Remove the flywheel or flywheel coupling assembly. Refer to section 1.16.2.
2. Remove the bolts and flat washers securing the outboard bearing support to the engine
flywheel housing and remove the support and seal ring.

1.13.2.1 Inspection of Rear Outboard Bearing Support
Oil leaks indicate worn or damaged oil seals. Perform the following inspection of the flywheel or
flywheel coupling assembly oil seal sleeve:
1. Inspect the flywheel or flywheel coupling assembly oil seal sleeve for wear or dirt build up.
[a] If the seal is worn or damaged, install a new oil seal and oil seal sleeve,
[b] If seal has dirt build up install a new oil seal and oil seal sleeve, refer to section 1.13.3.
NOTE:
Oil leaks in the outboard bearing support area may come from the cup plug or pipe plug
in the end of the crankshaft or some of the other bolts behind the flywheel.
NOTE:
To ensure proper sealing, replace the oil sleeve whenever a new oil seal is installed.
The standard rear crankshaft seal is not used. Ensure the correct seal is installed on the
support assembly.
[c] If no damage is detected, the oil seal and oil seal sleeve may be reused.
1.13.3 Installation of Rear Outboard Bearing Support
The rear outboard bearing support assembly is adjustable in the flywheel housing to provide
maximum support. The assembly should be installed with minimum clearance to the crankshaft
and yet not have the possibility of interference. To do this, the crankshaft is rotated so that
maximum run-out of the bearing surface is at the bottom of the crankshaft circle.
The support assembly is installed with the crankshaft in this position.

1. To locate maximum run-out, mount a magnetic base dial indicator on the flywheel housing
below the vertical axis of the crankshaft with the indicator probe on the bottom of the
crankshaft bearing surface. See Figure 1-115.
1. Magnetic Base 3. Outboard Bearing Support

2. Dial Indicator
Figure 1-115 Placement of Magnetic Base Dial Indicator to Locate

Crankshaft Run-Out
2. Rotate the crankshaft and determine location of maximum run-out. The magnitude of
run-out is not a concern at this point.
3. Rotate the crankshaft until the observed run-out is at the 6:00 o'clock position. Do not
rotate the crankshaft until installation is complete.
4. Apply a thin coat of Lubriplate, or equivalent, over a new seal ring and place the seal
ring on the back of the support assembly.

NOTICE:
Teflon-lip seals must be installed dry. This allows transfer of the
Teflon to the sleeve surface for proper sealing. Lubricating the
seal may result in seal leakage.
USED ENGINE OIL

5. If a new lip seal has been installed in the support assembly, apply a thin film of clean
engine oil to the outside diameter of the seal and press the seal flush to the support housing.
NOTE:
The lip side is positioned toward the bushing in the support assembly. If a new
"lay-down" Teflon seal has been installed (service only availability), DO NOT apply
an oil film to the outside diameter of the seal.
6. Install the assembly upward to the crankshaft when the engine is in the upright position,
taking care not to lift the crankshaft off the rear main bearing.
NOTE:
The support assembly is attached to the flywheel housing with twelve bolts.
7. Install the support assembly in flywheel housing counterbore with two recesses on the
outer flange oriented so they are approximately at 3:00 and 9:00 o'clock position and in
line with two flywheel housing attaching bolts.
NOTE:
The four oil drain holes must be at the 6:00 o'clock position.
8. Install four washers and bolts in a criss-cross pattern snug enough to hold the support
assembly in place, but do not tighten completely.
9. Move the support assembly by hand up and down and side to side to get the "feel" for the
approximate bearing-to-crankshaft clearance.
10. When the support assembly feels approximately centered on the crankshaft side to side,
lift upward on the support assembly until it contacts the crankshaft.
11. Adjust the clearances before installing the remaining washers and bolts. Refer to step 13.
NOTE:
The threads of attaching bolts are coated with sealant to provide oil sealing to the
crankcase.

12. To ensure the crankshaft is not lifted off the rear main bearing, place a magnetic base
dial indicator on the flywheel housing above the vertical axis of the crankshaft with the
indicator probe positioned on top of the crankshaft bearing surface. See Figure 1-116.
1. Dial Indicator 3. Outboard Bearing Support

2. Magnetic Base
Figure 1-116 Placement of Magnetic Base Dial Indicator to Adjust Outboard

Bearing Support
13. Check the clearance between the bearing and crankshaft with a narrow thickness gage.
NOTE:
The greatest clearance must be allowed at the top on the vertical axis of the crankshaft.
The top clearance must not be less than 0.08 mm (0.003 in.) or more than 0.25 mm
(0.010 in.). See Figure 1-117. There should be no clearance at the bottom. The

clearance at the bottom should never be more than 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.). The
side-to-side clearance should be approximately equal.
1. Outboard Bearing Support 3. Crankshaft

2. Feeler Gage
Figure 1-117 Checking the Clearance Between the Crankshaft and

Outboard Bearing

NOTICE:
When positioning the flywheel, always use the guide studs to
prevent seal damage. Push the flywheel in evenly.
14. To adjust clearances, insert the narrow end of a rolling head pry bar into a bolt hole at
the bottom of the support assembly and pry in the direction required to set the required
clearance. See Figure 1-118.
1. Outboard Bearing Support 2. Pry Bar
Figure 1-118 Tightening the Outboard Bearing Support Attaching Bolts
15. With the support assembly in this position, install the remaining washers and bolts.
Tighten and torque sequentially in criss-cross pattern to 47-54 N·m (35-40 lb·ft).
16. While tightening the bolts, observe the dial indicator to verify that the support assembly
has not moved, or that the crankshaft has not been lifted off the rear main bearing.
17. Attach flywheel lifting tool J 25026-A with two eye bolts onto the flywheel.

18. Using a chain hoist, position the flywheel into the flywheel housing. See Figure 1-119.
1. Guide Studs 3. Flywheel

2. Flywheel Housing
Figure 1-119 Position Flywheel using Guide Studs
19. Align the flywheel bolt holes with the crankshaft bolt holes. Continue flywheel
installation. 1.16.5.

1.14 CRANKSHAFT VIBRATION DAMPER
A 12 in. (8V engine), a 13.5 in. (12V engine) or an 18 in., formerly 15 in., (16V engine) viscous
type vibration damper is mounted on the front end of the crankshaft to reduce crankshaft
stress. See Figure 1-120. The vibration damper is bolted to a hub retained on the front end of
the crankshaft.
1. Crankshaft Pulley 3. Lower Front Cover

2. Vibration Damper 4. Cylinder Block
Figure 1-120 Vibration Damper Mounting (8V Engines)
A viscous type vibration damper consists of a flywheel enclosed in a fluid-tight outer case, but
separated by a thin layer of viscous liquid. The fluid friction restricts flywheel movement and
dampens excessive torsional crankshaft vibrations.
Effective with engine serial number 8VF-2373, the 12 in. (8V engine) vibration damper has a
6.35 mm (0.250 in.) thick flange and utilizes a hub and dowel assembly with ten tapped holes, a
scuff plate, and a new outer cone with a 3.05 mm (0.120 in.) slot (saw cut)

The current inner cone is grooved on the inner diameter and includes a Nitrile seal ring. The
former vibration damper has a 3.81 mm (0.150 in.) thick flange and utilizes a hub and dowel
assembly with six tapped holes. See Figure 1-121.
1. Bolt 8. Scuff Plate

2. Washer 9. Inner Cone
3. Front Pulley 10. Bolt
4. Outer Cone 11. Crankshaft
5. Hub 12. Front Cover Oil Seal
6. Dowel 13. Oil Pump Drive Gear
7. Vibration Damper 14. Seal Ring
Figure 1-121 Vibration Damper (8V Engine)
A nylon-coated internal flywheel vibration damper is now being used on current engines, effective
with engine serial numbers 8VF-8259 and 16VF-2333.

The vibration damper must be removed whenever the crankshaft, crankshaft front oil seal,
crankshaft front cover, or trunnion assembly is removed.
The new crankshaft bolts are lubrite coated to prevent possible damage (galling) to the bolt
threads and to increase the clamp load to the front end stack up (crankshaft pulley, vibration
damper, etc.). The new washer (retainer) is case hardened.
The new bolts and washer are black. The former bolts and washer are a steel (gray) color.
A vibration damper safety shield is mandatory in certain industrial and marine applications in
which the engine operates without a hood or in an open or unprotected area. A properly designed
and installed safety shield prevents direct physical contact with the damper during engine
operation. It also keeps the damper from "walking off" the crankshaft and causing property
damage or personal injury.
Detroit Diesel Corporation does not manufacture, sell, or install vibration damper safety shields.
The OEM or distributor designs and/or manufactures vibration damper safety shields. However,
DDC believes that the following guidelines should be followed when fabricating or installing
shields:
□ Shields should be made from 3.175-4.763 mm (0.1250-0.1875 in.) perforated steel or
heavy steel screen.
□ The perforated or open screen area of the shield should be equal to, or greater than, the
total area of both sides of the damper and its circumference.
□ Shields should be no closer than 12.7 mm (0.5 in.) from the damper when installed.
□ In all cases, safety shields must permit the vibration damper to be well ventilated during
engine operation to prevent overheating.

1.14.1 Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft Vibration Damper

See Figure 1-122.
Figure 1-122 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft

Vibration Damper
1.14.2 Removal of Crankshaft Vibration Damper (8V Engines)
On 8V engines, remove the vibration damper as follows:
NOTE:
Regardless of the condition, the damper must be replaced at time of normal major
engine overhaul.
1. Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and washer.

NOTICE:
Use care when removing the crankshaft pulley as the vibration
damper may come off. If the damper is allowed to fall, damage
to the internal components of the damper may result.
2. Remove the crankshaft pulley. If required, use a suitable puller to remove the pulley.
3. Install the pulley retaining bolt in the end of the crankshaft.
NOTE:
The number of bolts attaching the vibration damper to the crankshaft was reduced from
10 to 8. This provides two threaded open bolt holes, located 90 degrees from the dowel
pin locations, for puller tool J 24420-C. Service removal of these two bolts is permitted
on engines built after 8VF-2373.
4. Attach puller J 24420-C to the vibration damper hub with two long bolts threaded into the
two 3/8 in.-24 tapped holes provided in the hub. See Figure 1-123.
1. Vibration Damper 3. Washer

2. Front Pulley 4. Bolt
Figure 1-123 Removal of Vibration Damper Front Pulley

5. Pull the damper, hub assembly, and the outer cone until the outer cone is loose on the
crankshaft.
NOTE:
If the puller method does not free the damper, use a punch in the split of the cone to
remove it.
6. Remove the puller from the damper hub, and pull the outer cone off of the crankshaft.
See Figure 1-124.
1. Vibration Damper 2. Outer Cone
Figure 1-124 Removing Vibration Damper and Outer Cone
NOTICE:
When removing a viscous type damper from the crankshaft,
do not pound on the damper with a hammer or pry with other
tools. Dents in the damper outer case may render the damper
ineffective. The damper cannot be repaired.
7. Slide the vibration damper, damper hub, and retainer (current engines), as an assembly, off
the end of the crankshaft by hand.
8. If necessary, remove the vibration damper inner cone from the crankshaft. On the current
inner cone, remove and discard the seal ring.
NOTE:
The current inner cone is grooved on the inner diameter and includes a Nitrile seal
ring. Remove and discard the seal ring.

1.14.3 Removal of Crankshaft Vibration Damper (12V and 16V Engines)
On 12V and 16V engines, remove vibration damper from crankshaft as follows:
1. Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt and washer.
NOTICE:
2. Remove the crankshaft pulley. If required, use a suitable puller to remove the pulley.
3. Remove the bolts securing the vibration damper to the hub.
NOTICE:
When removing a viscous type damper from the crankshaft,
do not pound on the damper with a hammer or pry with other
tools. Dents in the damper outer case may render the damper
4. Lift the damper off the hub.
1.14.3.1 Inspection of Crankshaft Vibration Damper
Inspect the viscous type damper as follows:
NOTICE:
Shielded vibration dampers are difficult to inspect because of
the design of the shield and/or end items in which the engine is
installed. OEMs and distributors must supply written instructions
to their product users, cautioning them to periodically inspect the
viscous vibration damper for a split seam, bulged cover, leaks,
dents, etc. If these conditions exist, replace the vibration damper
shield. These conditions can prevent vibration dampers from
functioning properly and cause serious engine damage.
1. Inspect the viscous type damper for dents, nicks, fluid leaks, or bulges in the outer casing
of the damper.
[a] If dented, nicked, leaking, or bulged, replace the damper. Refer to section 1.14.4.
[b] If damage to the vibration damper is extensive, inspect the crankshaft.

[c] If not dented, nicked, leaking, or bulged, continue inspection.
NOTE:
Due to close clearances between the damper internal flywheel and outer casing, dents
may render the damper ineffective. Bulges or splits indicate fluid in the damper has
deteriorated and has bulged or forced the casing open at its crimped edges.
NOTE:
A loose or defective vibration damper, after a short period of operation, may cause a
cracked crankshaft.
2. Inspect the damper inner and outer cones, damper hub and the end of the crankshaft
for galling or burrs.
[a] Remove slight scratches or burrs with emery cloth.
[b] If seriously scratched or burred, replace the parts and refinish the end of the
crankshaft. Refer to section 1.14.4.
[c] If not scratched or burred, continue with the inspection.
3. Check the outside diameter of the inner cone for wear at the crankshaft front oil seal
contact surface.
[a] If worn, replace the oil seal and cone. Refer to section 1.8.6.
[b] If not worn, continue inspection.
4. On the current inner cone, check the grooves on the inner diameter for wear.
[a] If worn, replace the oil seal and cone. Refer to section 1.8.6.
NOTICE:
A loose engine mount enables the engine to move during
operation. This could damage the vibration damper.
5. Inspect the engine mounts to ensure they are not loose, cracked, or deteriorated.
[a] If loose, cracked, or deteriorated, replace the engine mounts.
[b] If not loose, cracked, or deteriorated, continue inspection.

6. Inspect the vibration damper hub sleeve (12V and 16V trunnion mounted engines) for
wear at the trunnion oil seal contact surfaces. See Figure 1-125.
1. Cup Plug 3. Vibration Hub

2. Sleeve 4. Dowel Pin
Figure 1-125 Trunnion Mounted Vibration Damper Hub (12V and 16V)
[a] If worn, replace the sleeve. Refer to section 1.8.5.

[b] If not worn, reuse the sleeve.
1.14.4 Installation of Crankshaft Vibration Damper (8V Engines)
Install vibration damper on 8V engines as follows:
NOTE:
When replacing the former 12 in. (8V engine), 0.150 in. flange vibration damper or the
six bolt hole hub assembly, the current 0.250 in. thick flange vibration damper, ten bolt
hole hub assembly, scuff plate, ten 7/16 in.-20 x 1 in. lock bolts, and the new 0.120 in.
slot outer cone must be used.
NOTE:
All of the parts on the front of the crankshaft must be positioned without any noticeable
interference.

USED ENGINE OIL

1. If removed, lubricate the new seal ring with engine oil.

2. Install the seal ring in the groove on the inner diameter of the current damper inner cone.
See Figure 1-126.
1. Inner Cone 2. Seal Ring
Figure 1-126 Inner Cone with Seal Ring (8V Engines)
3. If the engine was built prior to November 1976, install a new inner cone and Nitrile
seal ring.
4. Guide the damper inner cone over the end of the crankshaft, through the oil seal, and up
against the oil pump drive hub or oil slinger (bearing cap mounted oil pump).
NOTE:
The tapered end of the cone should point toward the front end of the crankshaft.
5. Assemble the current vibration damper and hub as follows:

[a] Place the vibration damper on the hub and over the dowel.

[b] Place the scuff plate over the dowels and against the damper. Install the eight or ten
7/16 in.-20 x 1 in. lock bolts.
[c] Tighten the bolts to 102-115 N·m (75-85 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
When overhauling engines with the former six bolt design vibration damper and hub
assembly, the bolts should be tightened to the same torque as the current ten bolt design
vibration damper and hub assembly. See Figure 1-127.
1. Crankshaft 7. Pulley
2. Oil Pump Drive Gear 8. Bolt
3. Oil Slinger 9. Washer
4. Oil Seal 10. Outer Cone
5. Front Cover 11. Inner Cone
6. Vibration Damper
Figure 1-127 Vibration Damper and Crankshaft Pulley Assembly Mounting

NOTICE:
Do not hit the damper with a hammer to position it on the
crankshaft. The damper may dent or bend rendering it
6. Slide the vibration damper and hub, as an assembly, over the end of the crankshaft (long
end of hub facing inner cone) and up against the damper inner cone.
7. Slide the damper outer cone, pointed end toward the hub, over the end of the crankshaft
and up against the damper hub.
8. Install the pulley on the crankshaft.
9. Place the washer on the crankshaft end bolt, and thread the bolt into the end of the
crankshaft. If the engine was built prior to March 1977, install a new lubrite-coated bolt
and washer.
10. Tighten the crankshaft end bolt as follows:
[b] Strike the end of the bolt with a 2 to 3 pound lead hammer.
[c] Tighten the bolt to 407 N·m (300 lb·ft) torque, and strike the bolt.
NOTE:
Do not strike the bolt after final torque has been applied.
NOTE:
The damper assembly must be securely fastened to the crankshaft. When the bolt is
drawn up to the specified torque, the cones will hold the damper rigidly in place.
PERSONAL INJURY
system.
NOTICE:
The bolt must not loosen during the barring operation. Serious
engine damage may result if the vibration damper or pulley is not
securely fastened to the crankshaft.
The hex head of the crankshaft bolt may be used to bar, or turn, the crankshaft. The
barring operation should always be performed clockwise.

1.14.5 Installation of Crankshaft Vibration Damper (12V and 16V

Engines)
Install the vibration damper on 12V and 16V engines as follows:
NOTE:
All of the parts on the front of the crankshaft must be positioned without any noticeable
interference.
1. Install the hub on the front end of the crankshaft, if removed.

2. Align the scuff plate and hub assembly with the crankshaft so that all six hub-to-crankshaft
bolts can be installed.
3. Apply International Compound No. 2, or equivalent, to the bolt threads and the underside
of the bolt heads.
4. Tighten the 9/16 in.-18 hub attaching bolts to 211-224 N·m (155-165 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
On trunnion mounted engines, if the cup plug in the rear of the vibration damper hub
was removed, replace it with a new cup plug. It is not necessary to use the cup plug or
seal sleeve on engines using stationary type front mounts.
NOTICE:
Do not hit the damper with a hammer to position it on the
crankshaft. The damper might be dented or bent.
5. Secure the vibration damper to the hub on the front end of the crankshaft with bolts and
lock washers.
7. Drive the crankshaft pulley, if used, straight on the hub with a wood block and a hammer.
8. Place the washer on the crankshaft end bolt, and thread the bolt into the end of the
crankshaft.
[c] Tighten the bolt to 407 N·m (300 lb·ft) torque, and strike the bolt.

NOTE:
NOTE:
The damper assembly must be securely fastened to the crankshaft. When the bolt is
drawn up to the specified torque, the cones will hold the damper rigidly in place.
PERSONAL INJURY
system.
NOTICE:
The bolt must not loosen during the barring operation. Serious
engine damage may result if the vibration damper or pulley is not
securely fastened to the crankshaft.
The hex head of the crankshaft bolt may be used to bar, or turn, the crankshaft. The
barring operation should always be performed clockwise.

1.15 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
The crankshaft pulley is retained on the crankshaft with keys, cones, or a combination of both. It
is secured with a special washer and bolt. See Figure 1-128.
1. Vibration Damper 4. Washer

2. Outer Cone 5. Bolt
3. Pulley
Figure 1-128 Front Pulley
The current crankshaft bolts are lubrite coated to prevent possible damage (galling) to the bolt
threads and to increase the clamp load to the front end stack up (crankshaft pulley, vibration
damper, etc.). The current washer (retainer) is case hardened.
The current bolts and washer are black. The former bolts and washer are a steel (gray) color.
The engines are equipped with either rigid type or rubber mounted type pulleys, depending on the
engine application. Rubber mounted pulleys incorporate a rubber insulator between the pulley
and the pulley hub, for vibration isolation, and a static clip, on some engines between the pulley
and the hub, for releasing electrical charges.
The load carrying capability of the front crankshaft pulleys will vary depending upon the pulley
used.

PERSONAL INJURY
system.
NOTICE:
The bolt must not loosen during the barring operation. If the
vibration damper or pulley is not securely fastened to the
crankshaft, serious engine damage may result.
NOTICE:
Barring a left-hand rotating marine engine equipped with a
Jabsco® raw water pump may result in damage to the rubber
impeller if the impeller vanes are forced to rotate against their
normal direction of deflection. To avoid damage, detach the
cover and remove the impeller before barring the engine. Mark
the front of the impeller for easy installation.
The hex head of the crankshaft bolt may be used to bar, or turn, the crankshaft. The barring
operation should always be performed clockwise.

1.15.1 Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft Pulley

See Figure 1-129.
Figure 1-129 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft Pulley
1.15.2 Removal of Crankshaft Pulley
Remove the crankshaft pulley as follows:
NOTICE:
1. Remove the pulley retaining bolt, washer, and static clip, if used.
2. Using a suitable puller, remove the pulley, or thread the pulley retaining bolt halfway
into the crankshaft.
3. Strike the bolt with a 2 to 3 pound lead hammer while prying behind the pulley with two
pry bars. Keep the ends of the pry bars as close to the crankshaft as possible.
4. If tapped holes are provided, install the pulley bolt in the end of the crankshaft.
5. Using puller J 24420-C, remove the pulley from the crankshaft.

1.15.2.1 Inspection of Crankshaft Pulley
Inspect the crankshaft pulley as follows:

1. Inspect the pulley bushing for rotation.
2. Hold the crankshaft stationary, and apply pressure to the pulley.
[a] If the pulley can be rotated, replace the bushing. Refer to section 1.15.3.
[b] If the pulley cannot be rotated, reuse the bushing.
NOTE:
The reliability of the rubber bushed crankshaft cannot be determined by examining
the rubber.
1.15.3 Installation of Crankshaft Pulley
Install the crankshaft pulley as follows:

1. Install the keys and/or cones in the front end of the crankshaft.
USED ENGINE OIL

2. Lubricate the end of the crankshaft with engine oil to facilitate pulley installation.
3. Slide the pulley on the end of the crankshaft.
NOTE:
In December 1990, the bolt torque requirements were increased to improve crankshaft
pulley retention. The higher torque required that the current crankshaft pulley bolt with

the larger head replace the former bolt with the smaller head. Ensure the current bolt is
installed on the engine. See Figure 1-130.
Figure 1-130 Former and Current Crankshaft Pulley Bolts
4. Place the washer and static clip, if used, on the bolt.

5. Thread the bolt into the end of the crankshaft.
NOTE:
If the engine is equipped with a vibration damper, the pulley must be tight against the
outer cone. Refer to section 1.14.4.

[c] Tighten to 610 N·m (450 lb·ft) torque, and strike the bolt.
[d] Tighten the bolt to 596–624 N·m (440–460 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:

1.16 FLYWHEEL
On 8V engines the flywheel is attached to the rear end of the crankshaft with twelve self-locking
bolts. See Figure 1-131. Six bolts are used on the 6V and 16V engines. A scuff plate is used
between the flywheel and the bolt heads to prevent them from scoring the flywheel surface.
1. Flywheel 3. Scuff Plate

2. Ring Gear 4. Bolt
Figure 1-131 Typical Flywheel Assembly
A steel ring gear, that meshes with the starting motor pinion, is shrunk onto the rim of the flywheel.

1.16 FLYWHEEL
On some engines, a split tube type retainer is driven in the end of the crankshaft to prevent the
pilot bearing from entering the crankshaft cavity. See Figure 1-132.
1. Crankshaft 2. Bearing Retainer (Split Tube Type)
Figure 1-132 Pilot Bearing Retainer
On certain applications, a clutch wear plate is bolted to the flywheel.

The flywheel must be removed for service operations, such as replacing the starter ring gear,
crankshaft or flywheel housing.

1.16.1 Repair or Replacement of Flywheel

See Figure 1-133.
Figure 1-133 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Flywheel
1.16.2 Removal of Flywheel
With the transmission removed, remove the flywheel as follows:

1.16 FLYWHEEL
FALLING FLYWHEEL
To avoid injury from a falling flywheel when removing the
last bolt, hold the flywheel against the crankshaft by hand
to prevent it from slipping off the crankshaft. The flywheel
is not doweled to the crankshaft.
1. Remove two flywheel bolts.

2. Install two suitable guide pins in the bolt holes to support the flywheel.
3. Remove the remaining flywheel attaching bolts and scuff plate.
4. Attach flywheel lifting tool J 25026-A, or some other suitable safe lifting device, to the
flywheel.
5. Attach a chain hoist to the lifting tool to support the flywheel.
6. Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft and the flywheel housing.
7. Remove the clutch pilot bearing, if used. Refer to section 1.17.2.
NOTE:
It is not necessary to remove the split tube type bearing retainer (if applicable) from
the crankshaft.
1.16.3 Removal of Ring Gear
Remove the ring gear as follows:

1. Support the flywheel, crankshaft side down, on a solid flat surface or hardwood block that
is slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the ring gear.
2. Drive the ring gear off the flywheel with a suitable drift and hammer.
NOTE:
Work around the circumference of the gear to avoid binding the gear on the flywheel.
1.16.3.1 Inspection of Flywheel
Inspect the flywheel as follows:

1. Visually inspect the clutch contact surface of the flywheel or wear plate for cracks or wear.

NOTICE:
Do not remove more than 0.020 in. (0.508 mm) of metal from
the flywheel. Maintain all of the radii when refacing the flywheel.
If cavities of any size appear, fill them so no damage can result
to the clutch.
[a] If the flywheel is cracked or worn, it may be refaced.

[b] If excessively cracked or worn, replace the flywheel. Refer to section 1.16.5.
[c] If not cracked or worn, reuse the flywheel.
2. Visually inspect the gear teeth for wear, damage, or chamfering.
[a] If excessively worn, damaged, or chamfered, replace the ring gear. Refer to section
1.16.4.
[b] If not worn, damaged, or chamfered, continue inspection.
NOTE:
The replacement gear must be installed so that the chamfer on the teeth faces the same
direction as on the gear that has been removed.
3. Visually inspect the crankshaft butt end and flywheel contact surface for fretting or
brinelling.
[a] If fretted or brindled, lightly stone the crankshaft end and the flywheel contact surface.
NOTE:
If material is removed from the flywheel face, mark or stamp the quantity removed on a
non-critical flywheel area, e.g., 0.25 mm (0.010 in.).
[b] If excessively fretted or brindled, replace the flywheel. Refer to section 1.16.5.
[c] If not fretted or brindled, continue inspection.
4. Inspect the dowel extension.
[a] If dowels extend more than 12.7 mm (0.5 in.) from the crankshaft, ensure the proper
size dowels are being used. Refer to section 1.16.4.
[b] If dowels extend less than 12.7 mm (0.5 in.) from the crankshaft, ensure the proper
size dowels are being used. Refer to section 1.16.4.
1.16.4 Installation of Ring Gear
Install the ring gear as follows:

1. Support the flywheel, ring gear side up, on a solid flat surface.

1.16 FLYWHEEL
NOTICE:
Do not heat the gear over 400°F (204°C). Excessive heat may
destroy the original heat treatment.
2. Rest the ring gear on a flat metal surface and heat the gear uniformly with an acetylene
torch, keeping the torch moving around the gear to avoid hot spots.
NOTE:
Heat indicating "crayons," that melt at a predetermined temperature, may be obtained
from most tool vendors. Placing a "crayon" on the ring gear will help prevent overheating.
3. Use a pair of tongs to place the gear on the flywheel with the chamfer, if any, facing the
same direction as on the gear just removed.
4. Tap the gear against the shoulder on the flywheel.
NOTICE:
Do not heat the gear over 400°F (204°C). Excessive heat may
destroy the original heat treatment.
5. If the gear cannot be readily seated all the way around, remove it and apply additional heat.
1.16.5 Installation of Flywheel
Install the flywheel as follows:
NOTE:
Before attaching the flywheel, ensure the crankshaft, flywheel contact surfaces, and
the bolt threads in the crankshaft end are clean and dry. This will ensure proper
metal-to-metal contact and maximum friction.
NOTICE:
Flywheel mounting bolts are considered "one-use" items and
cannot be reused. New mounting bolts must be installed when
attaching the flywheel. Reusing bolts may lead to loss of torque
or bolt breakage during engine operation, resulting in serious
engine damage.
NOTE:
The flywheel bolt tap depth in the 8V engine crankshaft has been reduced from 66.548
to 41.148 mm (2.620 to 1.620 in.) beginning with approximate engine serial number
8VF-3120. With this change, shorter flywheel attaching bolts are used. The current
shorter bolts can be used with the former crankshaft.
1. Using a chain hoist, attach the flywheel lifting tool.

2. Position the flywheel in the flywheel housing (use guide studs).

3. Align the flywheel bolt holes with the crankshaft bolt holes.
4. Install the clutch pilot bearing, if used.
5. Install two bolts through the scuff plate 180 degrees from each other. Tighten the bolts to
hold the flywheel and scuff plate to the crankshaft.
6. Remove the guide studs.
7. Remove the flywheel lifting tool.
8. Apply International Compound No. 2, or equivalent, to the threads and to the bolt head
contact area (underside) of the remaining bolts. The bolt threads must be completely
filled with International Compound No. 2.
9. Wipe off excess compound.
NOTE:
International Compound must never be used between two surfaces where maximum
friction is desired, as between the crankshaft and the flywheel.
10. Install and tighten the remaining bolts.

11. Remove the two bolts used temporarily to retain the flywheel.
12. Apply International Compound No. 2.
13. Install the bolts.
14. Using an accurately calibrated torque wrench, tighten the bolts to 68 N·m (50 lb·ft) torque.
15. Mark the heads of the bolts and rotate each as follows to obtain required clamping.
See Figure 1-134.
[a] Bolts 2 3/4 in. long and under-turn 90-100 degrees.

1.16 FLYWHEEL
[b] Bolts over 2 3/4 in. long-turn 150-180 degrees.
Figure 1-134 Torque-Turn Limits
NOTE:
Since the torque-turn method provides more consistent clamping than the former method
of flywheel installation, bolt torque values should be ignored.
NOTE:
When a clutch pilot bearing is installed, index the flywheel bolts so that the corners of
the bolt heads do not overlap the pilot bearing bore in the flywheel. One of the bolt
head flats will be in line with the bearing bore. Always rotate bolts in the increased
clamp direction to prevent underclamping.
16. Mount a dial indicator on the flywheel housing, and check the flywheel run-out at the
clutch contact face.
NOTE:
The maximum allowable run-out is 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) total indicator reading per inch
of radius. The radius is measured from the center of the flywheel to the outer edge
of the clutch contact face of the flywheel.

1.17 CLUTCH PILOT BEARING
The clutch pilot bearing is pressed into the bore of the flywheel assembly and serves as a support
for the inner end of the clutch drive shaft. A split tube type retainer is driven in the end of the
crankshaft to prevent the pilot bearing from entering the crankshaft cavity. Refer to section 1.16.
A scuff plate, or bearing retainer, holds the clutch pilot bearing in place, and the flywheel
attaching bolts secure it. See Figure 1-135.
1. Flywheel Assembly 4. Scuff Plate

2. Clutch Pilot Bearing 5. Flywheel Mounting Bolt
3. Seal
Figure 1-135 Clutch Pilot Bearing Removal/Installation
On some engines, a gasket provides an oil-tight seal between the bearing retainer and the flywheel.
A single-sealed ball type clutch pilot bearing should be packed with an all-purpose grease
such as Shell® Alvania® No. 2, or equivalent, if not previously packed by the manufacturer.
A double-sealed ball type clutch pilot bearing is prepacked with grease and requires no further
lubrication.

1.17.1 Repair or Replacement of Clutch Pilot Bearing

See Figure 1-136.
Figure 1-136 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Clutch Pilot Bearing
1.17.2 Removal of Clutch Pilot Bearing
With the transmission removed and the flywheel attached to the engine, remove the clutch pilot
bearing as follows:

BODILY INJURY
load.
1. Remove the bolts attaching the flywheel to the crankshaft.

2. Remove the bearing retainer, and install two 9/16 in.-18 studs to prevent the flywheel
from falling off the end of the crankshaft.
3. With the clutch pilot bearing remover adaptor J 23907-2 attached to slide hammer
J 23907-1, insert the adaptor fingers through the pilot bearing.
4. Tighten the thumbscrew to expand the fingers against the inner race of the bearing.
5. Tap the slide hammer against the shaft shoulder, and pull the bearing out of the flywheel.
6. Remove the oil seal, if used.
With the flywheel removed from the engine, remove the clutch pilot bearing as follows:
1. Place the flywheel on wood supports to provide clearance for the bearing.
2. Use bearing remover J 23907-2, or tool J 3154-1A with suitable adaptor plates, to tap the
bearing from the flywheel.
3. Remove the oil seal, if used.
1.17.3 Cleaning Clutch Pilot Bearing
Prior to inspection, clean the clutch pilot bearing as follows:

1. Wipe the prepacked double-sealed bearing clean on the outside.
NOTE:
Do not wash shielded bearings. Dirt may be washed in and the cleaning fluid cannot be
entirely removed from the bearing.

FIRE
vapors:
EYE INJURY
2. Clean the other bearing types thoroughly with clean fuel oil, and dry them with
compressed air.
1.17.3.1 Inspection of Clutch Pilot Bearing
Inspect the clutch pilot bearing as follows:

1. Hold the inner race and revolve the outer race slowly by hand. The bearing should roll
freely.
[a] If the bearing does not roll freely, replace the bearing.
[b] If the bearing rolls freely, proceed with inspection.
2. Visually inspect for rough spots in the bearing.
[a] Replace the bearing if it has rough spots.
[b] If no rough spots are detected, reuse the bearing.
1.17.4 Installation of Clutch Pilot Bearing
Install the clutch pilot bearing as follows:

1. Install the oil seal, if used, in the flywheel.
2. Lubricate the outside diameter of the bearing with clean engine oil.

3. Start the bearing in the bore of the flywheel, with the numbered side of the bearing facing
away from the engine.
4. Drive the bearing in place with bearing installer J 3154-1A and suitable adaptor plates.
5. Install the flywheel on the crankshaft. Refer to section 1.16.5.

1.18 ENGINE DRIVE SHAFT FLEXIBLE COUPLING
The engine drive shaft flexible coupling, used on some vehicle applications, is bolted to the
engine flywheel and serves as a drive. See Figure 1-137. It dampens torque fluctuations between
the engine and the Allison® HT-700 and CLBT-700 transmissions.
1. Flywheel Assembly 4. Plate

2. Hub 5. Bolt
3. Disc and Disc Assembly
Figure 1-137 Engine Drive Shaft Flexible Coupling

A high capacity spring loaded engine drive shaft flexible coupling is used between the engine
and Allison remote mounted CLBT-750 transmission. The coupling is bolted to the engine
flywheel. See Figure 1-138.
1. Spacer 6. Bolt
2. Rear Support Plate 7. Spring Washers
3. Rear Plate Mounting Bolt 8. Snap Ring
4. Flywheel 9. Hub
5. Mounting Plate 10. Nut
Figure 1-138 Engine Drive Shaft Flexible Coupling (Remote Mounted

Transmission)

1.18.1 Repair or Replacement of Engine Drive Shaft Flexible Coupling

See Figure 1-139.
Figure 1-139 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Engine Drive Shaft

Flexible Coupling

1.18.2 Removal of Engine Drive Shaft Flexible Coupling

(Transmission Removed)
With the transmission removed, remove the engine drive shaft flexible coupling as follows:
BODILY INJURY
load.
1. Remove two flywheel bolts.

2. Install two suitable guide pins in these holes to support the flywheel.
3. Remove the remaining flywheel bolts.
4. Remove the scuff plate and flexible coupling assembly.
1.18.3 Removal of Coupling (Remote-Mounted Transmission)
With a remote-mounted transmission, remove the coupling as follows:

1. Remove the eight 3/8 in.-16 x 0.875 in. bolts which attach the coupling to the flywheel.
2. Remove the coupling.
1.18.4 Disassembly of Engine Drive Shaft Flexible Coupling
Disassemble the engine drive shaft flexible coupling as follows:

1. Remove the twelve 1/2 in.-20 x 0.75 in. lock bolts holding the coupling assembly together.
1.18.5 Disassembly of Drive Shaft Coupling (Remote-Mounted

Transmission)
Disassemble the remote-mounted transmission drive shaft coupling as follows:

1. Remove the six bolts, lock washers, nuts, and spacers holding the two plates together.
2. Remove the smaller plate.
1.18.5.1 Cleaning of Engine Drive Shaft Flexible Coupling
Prior to inspection, clean the engine drive shaft flexible coupling as follows:

USED ENGINE OIL

1. Wash the coupling with clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
1.18.5.2 Inspection of Engine Drive Shaft Flexible Coupling
Inspect the engine drive shaft flexible coupling as follows:

1. Visually inspect the engine drive shaft flexible coupling for broken, worn, or over-heated
discs.
[a] If broken, worn, damaged, or over-heated replace the discs. Refer to section 1.18.8.
[b] If not broken, worn, damaged, or over-heated continue inspection.
2. Inspect the remote mounted transmission coupling for broken or worn springs.
[a] If broken or worn, replace the springs. Refer to section 1.18.8.
[b] If not broken or worn, continue inspection.
3. Visually inspect the hub splines for wear.
NOTE:
Since the plates, spacers and hubs are manufactured in matched sets, worn hubs or
plates cannot be replaced individually but must be replaced by a complete flexible
coupling assembly.
[a] If excessively worn, replace the drive shaft coupling assembly. Refer to section
1.18.8.
4. Visually inspect the mounting plate for warping.
[a] If warped, replace the drive shaft coupling assembly. Refer to section 1.18.8.
[b] If the mounting plate is not warped, reuse the assembly.

1.18.6 Assembly of Engine Drive Shaft Flexible Coupling
Assemble the engine drive shaft flexible coupling as follows:

1. Install the twelve 1/2 in.-20 x 0.75 in. lock bolts. See Figure 1-140 and see Figure 1-141.
1. Spacer 6. Bolt
2. Rear Support Plate 7. Spring Washers
3. Rear Plate Mounting Bolt 8. Snap Ring
4. Flywheel 9. Hub
5. Mounting Plate 10. Nut
Figure 1-140 Engine Drive Shaft Flexible Coupling (Remote Mounted

Transmission)

1. Flywheel Assembly 4. Plate

2. Hub 5. Bolt
3. Disc and Disc Assembly
Figure 1-141 Engine Drive Shaft Flexible Coupling
1.18.7 Assembly of Drive Shaft Coupling (Remote Mounted

Transmission)
Assemble the remote mounted transmission drive shaft coupling as follows:

1. Replace smaller plate.
2. Install the six bolts, lock washers, nuts, and spacers.
3. Tighten the nuts to 34-41 N·m (25-30 lb·ft).

1.18.8 Installation of Engine Drive Shaft Flexible Coupling
Install the engine drive shaft flexible coupling as follows:

1. Align the bolt holes in the coupling with the tapped holes in the flywheel.
2. Apply a small quantity of International Compound No. 2, or equivalent, to the threads and
contact area of the flywheel attaching bolts.
3. Remove the guide pins, and install the scuff plate and the 9/16 in.-18 x 1.75 in. lock bolts.
4. Tighten the bolts.
5. On remote mounted transmission engine drive shaft flexible couplings, install the eight
3/8 in.-16 x 0.875 in. bolts, and tighten them to 61-75 N·m (45-55 lb·ft) torque.

1.19 FLYWHEEL HOUSING
The flywheel housing is a one-piece casting mounted against the rear end plate. The rear end
plate is attached to the cylinder block. The flywheel housing covers the gear train and flywheel. It
also serves as support for the starting motor and transmission.
The crankshaft rear oil seal, which is pressed into the housing, may be removed or installed
without removing the housing. Refer to section 1.4.5.
1.19.1 Repair or Replacement of Flywheel Housing

See Figure 1-142.
Figure 1-142 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Flywheel Housing

1.19.2 Removal of Flywheel Housing
Remove the flywheel housing as follows:
FALLING ENGINE
1. Mount the engine on an overhaul stand. Refer to section 1.1.2 for mounting procedures
and precautions.
2. Remove the flywheel housing support brackets attached to the housing and the cylinder
heads.
3. Remove the accessories attached to the flywheel housing.
4. Remove the starting motor. Refer to section 8.2.2.
BODILY INJURY
load.
7. Remove the twelve attaching bolts located in the housing bell.

8. Remove one attaching bolt located behind the small hole cover on the right-hand side
of the flywheel housing.
9. Remove the remaining bolts around the upper portion of the housing and the two bolts that
go through the rear end plate from the front and thread into the housing.
NOTE:
When removing the flywheel housing bolts, note the location of the various size bolts,
lock washers, flat washers and copper washers so they may be installed in their proper
location.

FALLING ENGINE
BODILY INJURY
load.
NOTICE:
A bracket that is bent or otherwise damaged may fail, causing
the flywheel housing to fall when lifted. This may result
in component damage when the flywheel housing is being
removed/installed from the equipment. To help avoid these
situations, replace any damaged or bent brackets before
attempting removal/installation.
NOTICE:
The flywheel housing must be securely attached to the lifting
sling before removing from the engine. Damage to Flywheel
housing may result if it breaks away from the lifting device and
falls.
10. Install aligning studs J 1927-01 to guide the housing until it clears the crankshaft during
removal. See Figure 1-143.

1. Flywheel Housing 5. Washer

2. Cylinder Block 6. Bolt
3. Chain Hoist 7. Guide Studs
4. Rear Lifter Brackets
Figure 1-143 Removal and Installation of Flywheel Housing

11. With the flywheel housing supported by a chain hoist attached to the lifter brackets, strike
the front face of the housing alternately on each side of the engine with a soft hammer to
work it off the dowels and away from the cylinder block rear end plate.
12. Remove all traces of the old gasket from the cylinder block rear end plate and the flywheel
housing.
13. Remove the rear oil seal.
1.19.2.1 Inspection of Flywheel Housing
Inspect the flywheel housing as follows:

1. Visually inspect the flywheel housing for cracks or other damage.
[a] If damaged, replace the flywheel housing. Refer to section 1.19.3.
[b] If not damaged, proceed with inspection.
2. Inspect the rear end of the crankshaft for wear from the oil seal rubbing, dirt buildup, or
fretting caused by the flywheel.
NOTE:
The crankshaft must be clean and smooth, otherwise the oil seal lip will be damaged
when the flywheel housing is installed.
[a] If rubbed, fretted, or damaged, replace the crankshaft. Refer to section 1.7.5.
[b] If dirt has built up, clean the crankshaft. Refer to section 1.7.2.1.
[c] If not rubbed, fretted, damaged, or dirty, continue inspection.
3. Inspect the flywheel housing concentricity and bolting flange face run-out. Refer to section
[a] If the concentricity and run-out are not within specified limits, replace the flywheel
housing. Refer to section 1.19.3.
[b] If the concentricity and run-out are within specified limits, reuse the flywheel
housing. Refer to section 1.19.3.
1.19.3 Installation of Flywheel Housing
Install flywheel housing, except the 16V reinforced flywheel housing, as follows:

USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lubricate the gear train teeth with clean engine oil.

2. Affix a new gasket to the flywheel housing.
NOTE:
On certain flywheel housings, the idler gear hole spacer is cast in the housing, opposite
the idler gear. See Figure 1-144. A shim must be installed between the flywheel
housing and the cylinder block end plate. Use grease to hold the shim on the spacer
during installation.
1. Flywheel Housing 4. Housing to Block Bolt

2. Washer 5. Shim
3. Integrally Cast Spacer Hub 6. Block End Plate
Figure 1-144 Idler Gear Hole Spacer Shim
3. Thread two aligning studs J 1927-01 into the cylinder block to guide the housing into place.
NOTE:
Before installing the flywheel housing, ensure the 5/8 in.-11 x 1 in. rear end plate to
cylinder block bolt is installed and tightened. Refer to section 1.2.4.

BODILY INJURY
load.
NOTICE:
The flywheel housing must be securely fastened to the engine
before releasing the lifting sling. Part damage may result if the
flywheel housing breaks away from the engine and falls.
4. With the housing suitably supported, position the housing over the crankshaft and up
against the cylinder block rear end plate and gasket.

5. Remove the pilot studs, and install the flywheel housing bolts, with washers and lock
washers. Finger-tighten. See Figure 1-145.
1. Stud Locations
Figure 1-145 Flywheel Housing Bolt Guide Stud Location
6. Install the 3/8 in.-16 x 1.255 in. sealant-coated flange hex head bolts in dummy hub and
idler hub positions 1 through 6.
NOTE:
The flange hex head bolts replace the former standard hex head bolt and washer. Flange
hex head bolts should not be used with a washer.
NOTE:
To prevent installation of bolts that are too long and bottom out on the blower drive
step-up gear (on naturally aspirated engines), studs are used. The Teflon-coated stud
ends are threaded into the housing.

7. Install three new flywheel housing nylon patch bolts at the right-bank camshaft gear area.
For positions 13, 14, and 15, see Figure 1-146.
Figure 1-146 Flywheel Housing Bolt Torque Sequence

NOTE:
Whenever the sealant patch bolts are removed, they should be replaced with new
sealant patch bolts at both the idler gear spacer and idler gear positions.
8. Tighten the bolts in sequence.

9. Starting at number 4 on a right-hand rotation engine or at number 1 on a left-hand rotation
engine, tighten the flywheel housing bolts.
NOTE:
If the idler gear hole spacer is integrally cast into the housing, ensure the shim is in place.
When tightening the flywheel housing bolts, the idler gear hub bolts should always be
tightened first. Turn the crankshaft by hand while tightening the idler gear hub bolts to
prevent any binding or brinelling of the tapered roller bearing rollers and cups.
NOTICE:
To eliminate oil leaks on marine engines, ensure the plugs in
the top two holes of the wet flywheel housing mounting pads are
properly sealed and tightened 7 N·m (5 lb·ft) torque.

10. See Figure 1-147 for the final bolt tightening sequence. Starting at number 1, tighten the
flywheel housing bolts to the specified torque.
Figure 1-147 Flywheel Housing Bolt Torque Sequence
11. Torque bolts as follows:

[a] 3/8 in.-24 bolts to 34-41 N·m (25-30 lb·ft).

[b] 3/8 in.-16 flange hex head idler gear hub and idler gear hole spacer bolts to 41-47 N·m
(30-35 lb·ft).
[c] Remaining 3/8 in.-16 bolts (number 30 with nylon patch) to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft).
[d] 1/2 in.-13 bolts to 122-136 N·m (90-100 lb·ft).
[e] The two 5/8 in.-11 outboard flywheel housing bolts on left and right side to
186-200 N·m (137-147 lb·ft).
NOTE:
Rotate the crankshaft when tightening the idler gear hub bolts.
NOTE:
Aluminum flywheel housings are being used on 6V-92TA 43 degree tilt coach engines,
effective with engine serial number 6VF-102676. Effective with engine serial number
6VF-102867, 6V-92TA 15 degree tilt coach engines are provided with aluminum flywheel
housings. The new coach flywheel housings have an additional cast-in drilled boss that
provides for a left-side waist bolt.
12. Check flywheel concentricity. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

13. Install the crankshaft rear oil seal. Refer to section 1.8.7.
16. Install the starting motor. Refer to section 8.2.3.
17. Install accessories attached to the flywheel housing.
18. Install the large hole covers on the flywheel housing.
19. Tighten the 3/8 in.-24 stud nuts to 27-34 N·m (20-25 lb·ft) torque, the 3/8 in.-24 bolts,
7/16 in.-14 bolts, and the 1/2 in.-13 bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
Current engines include thread inserts at the small and large hole cover stud hole
positions.

FALLING ENGINE
FALLING ENGINE
FALLING ENGINE

21. An RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) sealant is now being used in place of the gasket
to seal flywheel housing small hole cover ("star cover"). Replace the covers as follows:
[a] Clean the old gasket material and/or loose sealant from the housing and cover. It is
not necessary to remove all old sealant.
[b] Apply a 0.125 in. diameter continuous, unbroken bead of sealant to the perimeter
of the cover just inside the bolt holes.
NOTE:
To provide an effective seal, this should be done not more than ten minutes before the
cover is to be secured to the flywheel housing.
[c] To ensure the sealant is properly applied, use a sample gasket as a template prior to
installing the bead.
22. Attach the cover to the flywheel housing with the proper bolts. Torque to 41-47 N·m
(30-35 lb·ft).

1.19.4 Installation of Reinforced Flywheel Housing (16V)
Install the reinforced flywheel housing (16V) as follows:
NOTE:
A reinforced flywheel housing with support studs is used on certain 16V engines.
1. Thread jam nuts "A" and "C" on the studs. See Figure 1-148.
NOTE:
Thread the longer stud into the left-bank side of the cylinder block and the shorter stud
into the right-bank through the hole in the rear end plate. Tighten the studs.
1. Cylinder Block 4. Nut "B"

2. Nut "C" 5. Stud
3. Nut "A" 6. Flywheel Housing
Figure 1-148 Location of Reinforced Flywheel Housing Support Studs

2. Turn nuts "C" on the studs until they contact the cylinder block. Tighten nuts "C."
3. Affix a new gasket to the flywheel housing.
USED ENGINE OIL

4. Lubricate the gear train teeth with clean engine oil.
BODILY INJURY
load.
NOTICE:
The flywheel housing must be securely fastened to the engine
before releasing the lifting sling. Part damage may result if the
flywheel housing breaks away from the engine and falls.
5. Thread two aligning studs J 1927-01 into the cylinder block to guide the housing in place.
6. Install six 3/8 in.-16 x 1.125 in. self-locking bolts with flat washers in the tapped holes of
the idler gear hub and idler gear hole spacer. Finger-tighten.
7. Remove the aligning studs, and install six 1/2 in.-13 x 3.25 in. housing-to-cylinder block
bolts with lock washers. Finger-tighten.
8. Install the remaining flywheel housing attaching bolts with lock washers. Finger-tighten.

9. Tighten the bolts and nuts in sequence. See Figure 1-149(Operation 1).
Figure 1-149 Reinforced Flywheel Housing (16V) Bolt and Nut Tightening
Sequence
10. Starting at number 4 on a right-hand rotation engine or at number 1 on a left-hand rotation

engine, tighten the flywheel housing bolts and nuts. Refer to section 1.28.
NOTE:
When tightening the idler gear hub bolts, turn the engine crankshaft to keep the idler
gear bearing assembly from binding.

11. Tighten the bolts and nuts in sequence. See Figure 1-150(Operation 2).
Figure 1-150 Reinforced Flywheel Housing (16V) Final Bolt and Nut Tightening
Sequence
12. Starting at number 1, tighten the flywheel housing bolts and nuts to the specified torque
as follows:

[a] The 3/8 in.-24 bolts and nuts to 34-41 N·m (25-30 lb·ft).
[b] The 3/8 in.-16 self-locking idler gear hub and idler gear spacer hub bolts to
54-61 N·m (40-45 lb·ft).
[c] The remaining 3/8 in.-16 bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft).
[d] The 1/2 in.-13 bolts to 122-136 N·m (90-100 lb·ft).
[e] The two 5/8 in.-11 outboard flywheel housing bolts on the left and right side to
186-200 N·m (137-147 lb·ft).
NOTE:
Rotate the crankshaft when tightening the idler gear hub bolts.
13. Replace the crankshaft rear oil seal. Refer to section 1.8.7.
15. If removed, place the upper oil pan in position against the cylinder block and flywheel
housing.
16. Install all 3/8 in.-16 oil pan attaching bolts and lock washers. Finger-tighten.
17. Install the two 3/4 in.-10 oil pan to flywheel housing bolts and lock washers.
18. Tighten the 3/8 in.-16 oil pan bolts to draw the oil pan tight against the cylinder block.
19. Tighten the 3/4 in.-10 bolts to 325-339 N·m (240-250 lb·ft) torque and the 3/8 in.-16 oil
pan bolts to 14-27 N·m (10-20 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
When tightening the oil pan bolts, tighten the center bolts first.
20. Thread jam nut "A" against the flywheel housing, and tighten stud nuts "B" to 217-231 N·m
(160-170 lb·ft) torque while holding nut "A" from rotating.
21. Check the flywheel housing concentricity and run-out. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION. If the dial indicator readings are not within the limits specified, loosen

stud nut "B" slightly and tighten jam nut "A" on either side of the flywheel housing to
bring the dial indicator reading within the specified limits. See Figure 1-151.
1. Cylinder Block 4. Nut "B"

2. Nut "C" 5. Stud
3. Nut "A" 6. Flywheel Housing
Figure 1-151 Location of Reinforced Flywheel Support Studs

FALLING ENGINE
FALLING ENGINE
FALLING ENGINE
FALLING ENGINE

23. Complete engine assembly.
24. An RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) sealant is now being used in place of the gasket
to seal flywheel housing small hole cover ("star cover"). Replace the covers as follows:
[a] Clean the old gasket material and/or loose sealant from the housing and cover. It is
not necessary to remove all the old sealant.

[b] Apply a 0.125 in. diameter continuous, unbroken bead of sealant to the perimeter
of the cover just inside the bolt holes.
NOTE:
To provide an effective seal, this should be done not more than ten minutes before the
cover will be secured to the flywheel housing. To ensure the sealant is properly applied,
use a sample gasket as a template prior to installing the bead.
[c] Attach the cover to the flywheel housing with the proper bolts, and torque to
41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft).

1.20 PISTON AND PISTON RINGS
The cross-head piston is a two-piece piston consisting of a crown and a skirt. A Viton rubber oil
seal ring is used between the crown and skirt, which are held together by the piston pin. Ring
grooves are machined in the piston crown for a fire ring and two compression rings. The crown is
also machined to accept a 150 degree slipper type bushing (bearing). The piston skirt incorporates
two oil control ring grooves, piston pin holes, and piston pin retainer counterbores. Equally
spaced drain holes are located in the oil ring groove area to permit excess oil, scraped from the
cylinder walls, to return to the crankcase. See Figure 1-152.
1. Connecting Rod 6. Bearing (Bushing)

2. Piston Skirt 7. Piston Pin
3. Pin Retainer 8. Spacer
4. Piston Dome 9. Connecting Rod and Bolt
5. Viton Rubber Seal
Figure 1-152 Crosshead Piston and Connecting Rod Components

Two bolts and spacers are used to attach the connecting rod to the piston pin. The piston pin in the
non-turbocharged (naturally aspirated) engines and former turbocharged engines has a lubricating
oil tube that retains a floating nut inside of the piston pin. The solid core piston pin, used in the
current turbocharged engines, has a radial drilled hole through the center. A threaded hole on each
side of the oil hole receives the connecting rod attaching bolts.
The improved piston ring sets include fire rings, which replace former grooveless, barrel-faced
rings 23502891 and 23504772. See Figure 1-153.
1. Oil Control Ring 5144622 Slotted No Chrome 7. Top (Piston Crown)

2. Oil Control Ring 5102737 Non-Slotted (Orange Stripe 8. Keystone Fire Ring (Grooved) Chrome Flash Lower
No Chrome) Side)
3. Oil Control Ring 5102736 (Orange Stripe Chrome 9. Dome
O.D)
4. Dome-to-Skirt Seal Ring* 10. Oil Ring Expander Usage†
5. Compression Ring (Either Side to Face Top of Dome 11. Skirt
6. Fire Ring (Identification Mark to Face Top of Dome)

* Prelube with engine oil at assembly

† Use oil ring expanders 5101568 yellow paint (high tension) for non-turbo and transit bus applications. Use oil ring expanders
green paint 23503268 (low tension) for other applications.
Locate A and C ring gaps 180° from expander gaps, and B and D ring gaps from A and C gaps.
Install oil control rings with scraper edges pointed away from top of dome.
Align gaps of first and third rings 180° from gap of second ring.
Use 23524192 wide gap fire ring for 75 horsepower per-cylinder engines and above. All others use standard gap fire ring 23524191.
Figure 1-153 Crosshead Piston Ring Orientation
NOTE:
The improved piston rings are not interchangeable with the former rings. Rings should
not be mixed within the engine.
□ New grooved, wide-gap fire ring 23524192 will replace former grooveless, barrel-faces
ring 23504772. This ring is identified by a blue stripe and three circles on the top of
the ring near the gap.
□ New grooved, standard gap fire ring 23524191 will replace former grooveless, barrel-faced
ring 23502891. This ring is identified by two circles on the top of the ring near the gap.
NOTE:
Fire rings must be installed with identification marks facing up.
□ The improved oil control ring sets use non-slotted, chrome scraper edge ring 5102736 and
black, non-slotted ring 5102737 in the top “A” and “B” positions, respectively. Slotted oil
control rings 5144622 are used in the bottom “C” and “D” groove positions.
Two different sets of oil control ring expanders are also included in the sets:
□ Low tension expander 23503268 (green stripe) is used in all turbocharged engine
applications, except transit buses.
□ High tension expander 5101568 (yellow stripe) is used in all non-turbocharged engine and
transit bus engine applications.
The top (fire) ring and the upper compression ring (second groove) are prestressed. Both are
identified by a small indentation on the top side. The fire ring is chrome-plated on the lower
side. Wide-gap keystone fire rings were recently released on Series 92 high output engines. A
standard-gap ring was also released for Series 92 Engines.
To improve durability, a barrel face top compression fire ring replaces the grooved ring formerly
used on all Series 92 Federal and California-certified engines. The new ring is used in conjunction
with the current low oil consumption oil ring package.
To optimize combustion system performance and meet 1988 California vehicle emission
standards, the 18:1 piston dome replaces the 17:1 dome on all 8V-92 California-certified engines.
Short port (21.59 x 508 mm or 0.85 x 20 in.) liners replace the large port (24.13 x 635 mm or
0.95 x 25 in.) liners formerly used on these engines.
All 8V Federal and 6V Federal and California-certified engines use the 17:1 piston dome and the
24.13 mm (0.95 in.) port height liner.

All 6V air-to-air charge-cooled Federal-certified engines use the 18:1 piston dome and the
19.1 mm (0.75 in.) port height liner.
A two-piece oil control ring is used in both oil ring grooves in the pistons for all current engines.
Engine lubricating oil cools and lubricates internal parts of the piston. Oil is pressure-fed through
the drilled passage in the connecting rod, through the oil tube in the piston pin, and through the
center hole in the bushing to the underside of the piston crown. A portion of the oil flows along
the grooves in the bushing to lubricate the piston pin.
During engine operation, the piston pin and bushing accept the gas loads pushing down on the
piston crown. The piston skirt is free from vertical load distortion. Thermal distortion is also
reduced as the piston crown expands. As the connecting rod swings to one side during downward
piston travel, the piston skirt accepts a major portion of the side load.
The non-turbocharged (naturally aspirated) engines use a 19:1 compression ratio piston and the
turbocharged engines use a 17:1 compression ratio piston. Fit the proper side of the gage in the
piston crown bowl. When the gage rests on the rim of the crown, it is a "GO" check for a piston
used in a turbocharged engine. When there is a space of approximately 1.02 mm (0.040 in.), it
identifies a piston used in a naturally aspirated engine. See Figure 1-154.
1. Piston Dome 2. Gage J 25397-B
Figure 1-154 Identification of Piston using Gage J 25397-B

Detroit Diesel engines are designed to operate on diesel fuels containing less than 0.5% sulfur.
Plasma-faced fire rings may be used in areas where approved fuel is not commercially available
or economically feasible to obtain. See Figure 1-155. Even with the use of the high-sulfur fuel
modification and maintenance procedures, engine life may still not equal that obtained with
recommended fuels. Refer to section 5.2 and refer to section 13.5.
1. Chromate Plated Bottom 2. Plasma Facing
Figure 1-155 Plasma Faced Fire Ring Cutaway
NOTE:
Recommended engine modifications do not apply to U.S. certified automotive engines.

1.20.1 Repair or Replacement of Piston and Piston Ring

See Figure 1-156.
Figure 1-156 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Piston and Piston Ring

1.20.2 Removal of Piston and Piston Ring
Refer to section 1.21.2 for piston and connecting rod assembly removal procedures.
1.20.3 Disassembly of Piston and Piston Ring
Remove the rings and disassemble the piston, as follows:
NOTE:
Piston assembly components should be matchmarked during disassembly to ensure that
they are assembled in the same position.
1. Secure the connecting rod in a soft-jawed vise.

2. Remove the piston rings with tool J 8128. See Figure 1-157.
1. Piston Assembly 2. Fire Ring
Figure 1-157 Removing Piston Rings
3. Punch a hole through the center of one of the piston pin retainers with a narrow chisel
or punch.
4. Pry both retainers from the piston. Do not damage the piston or bushing.
5. Loosen the two bolts securing the connecting rod to the piston pin.
6. Remove the rod and piston assembly from the vise, and place the assembly on the bench.
Remove the two bolts and spacers and the connecting rod.
7. Withdraw the piston pin.

8. Use a mallet to disassemble the dome from the piston assemblies skirt with fluoroelastomer
seal rings.
9. Grasp the piston assembly by the skirt, and bring the dome pin area down onto the tool's
neoprene head with sufficient force to separate the dome from the skirt.
NOTE:
The neoprene-padded base of the tool will absorb the impact of any dropped piston skirt.
CHEMICAL BURNS
10. Remove the seal ring from the piston crown.

11. Remove the piston pin bushing (bearing).
1.20.3.1 Cleaning of Piston and Piston Ring
Prior to inspection, clean the pistons and piston rings as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

EYE INJURY

1. Clean the piston components with fuel oil and dry them with compressed air. See Figure
1-158.
1. Carbon Deposit Removal 3. Cleaning Piston Crown

2. Cleaning Compression Ring Grooves
Figure 1-158 Piston Cleaning Procedure
NOTE:
If fuel oil does not remove the carbon deposits, use an approved chemical solvent that
will not harm the tin-plate on the piston skirt. Do not use chemical solvent on the bushing.
2. The piston crown, including the compression ring grooves, is not tin-plated and may be
wire-brushed to remove any hard carbon. Do not wire-brush the piston skirt.
3. Clean the ring grooves with a suitable tool or a piece of an old compression ring that
has been ground to a bevel edge.

4. Clean the inside surfaces of the piston crown and skirt and the oil drain holes in the lower
half of the piston skirt.
NOTE:
Avoid enlarging the holes while cleaning them.
EYE INJURY
NOTICE:
Do not attempt to clean the piston skirt by glass beading. This
will remove the tin-plating.
5. Use glass beading to clean a piston crown.
NOTE:
Mico Bead Glass Shot MS-M (0.074-0.147 mm or 0.0029-0.0058 in.) is recommended.
Allowable air pressure is 552-689 kPa (80-100 lb/in.2).
NOTE:
After cleaning, do not leave glass beads in the piston crown.
NOTICE:
Do not use crocus cloth on the bushing side of the pin. Do not
polish or refinish the piston pin on the bushing side. This could
damage the bushing side of the pin.
USED ENGINE OIL

6. Use crocus cloth wet with fuel oil to remove any trace of fretting and/or corrosion on the
connecting rod saddle-to-piston pin contact surface.

1.20.3.2 Inspection of Piston and Piston Ring
Inspect the piston and piston rings as follows:
NOTE:
The compression rings may be inspected through the ports in the cylinder liners after
the air box covers have been removed.
1. Inspect for worn or sticking compression rings.

[a] If worn or damaged, replace the rings. Refer to section 1.20.5.
[b] If not worn or damaged, continue inspection.
2. Visually inspect the plating or grooves for wear.
[a] If excessively worn, replace the piston and piston rings. Refer to section 1.20.5 and
refer to section1.20.7.
3. Check compression ring pressure.
NOTE:
If the rings are free and the plating or grooves are not worn away, compression should
be within operating specifications.
[a] If compression is not within specification. Replace.

[b] If compression is within specification, proceed with inspection.
NOTE:
If the tin-plate on the piston skirt and the original grooves in the piston rings are intact (no
wear step on the lower groove land), little wear has occurred.
NOTE:
Excessively worn or scored piston skirts, rings, or cylinder liners may be an indication
of abnormal maintenance or operating conditions which should be corrected to avoid a
failure recurrence. Using the recommended lubricating oil filters and air cleaners and
proper maintenance will minimize the amount of abrasive dust and foreign material
introduced into the cylinders and will reduce the wear rate.
NOTICE:
Avoid long periods of operation at idle speed and the use of
improper lubricating oil or fuel. A heavy formation of carbon may
result and cause the rings to stick, causing engine damage.
4. Visually inspect the piston skirt and crown for score marks, cracks, damaged ring groove
lands, or indications of overheating.
[a] If scored, cracked, damaged, or overheated, replace the piston. Refer to section
1.20.7.

[b] If not scored, cracked, damaged, or overheated, continue inspection.
NOTE:
Overheating or burned spots may be the result of an obstruction in the connecting rod oil
passage.
5. Check the cylinder liner and block bore for excessive out-of-round, taper or high spots.
[a] If the cylinder liner is not within specifications, it must be replaced. Refer to section
1.23.3.
[b] If the cylinder liner and block bore are within specifications, continue inspection.
6. Inspect the connecting rod, piston pin, and piston pin bushing. Refer to section 1.21.3.2.
NOTE:
Other factors that may contribute to piston failure include oil leakage into the air box,
oil pull-over from the air cleaner, leaking injectors, combustion blow-by, and low oil
pressure (dilution of the lubricating oil).
7. Inspect the crosshead piston dome using one of the following methods.
1.20.3.3 Inspection of Piston Dome using Magnetic Particle
Perform the magnetic particle method as follows:

1. Magnetize the dome.
2. Cover it with a fine magnetic powder or solution.
NOTE:
The particles or solution will effectively mark the crack.
3. Demagnetize the dome, and clean thoroughly.

[a] If magnetic particle inspection reveals a crack in any strut of a crosshead piston
dome, the dome must be discarded and replaced. Refer to section 1.20.4.
[b] If no cracks are revealed, continue inspection.
1.20.3.4 Inspection of Piston Dome using Fluorescent Magnetic Particle
Perform the fluorescent magnetic particle method as follows:

1. Magnetize the dome.
2. Cover with fluorescent magnetic particles.

3. Place under a "Black Light."
NOTE:
Very fine cracks that may be missed under the first method, especially on discolored or
dark surfaces, will be disclosed under the "Black Light."
[a] If cracked, replace the dome. Refer to section 1.20.4.

[b] If no cracks are revealed, continue inspection.
4. Demagnetize the dome.
NOTICE:
Reusing a crosshead piston dome with a cracked strut can result
in dome separation and serious engine damage.
NOTE:
When conducting a magnetic particle inspection, ensure that a casting joint is not
mistaken for a crack.
1.20.3.5 Inspection of Tapered Fire Ring Groove
Inspect the tapered fire ring groove width as follows:

1. Check the tapered fire ring groove width in the current piston crown with tool J 24599.
See Figure 1-159.
1. Piston Dome
Figure 1-159 Checking Fire Ring Groove in Piston Dome with Tool J 24599

2. Slide the "NO-GO" wire 2.69 mm (0.106 in.) diameter completely around the fire ring
groove.
[a] If the wire is below flush at any one area, the piston crown must be replaced.
NOTE:
The "GO" wire 2.54 mm (0.100 in.) diameter should be flush or protrude slightly from
the fire ring groove.
[b] If the wire is flush or protrudes to the proper dimension, reuse the piston and piston
rings.
1.20.4 Assembly of Piston and Piston Ring
Assemble the piston and piston ring assembly as follows:

1. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for specifications on reusing piston
assembly components.
USED ENGINE OIL

2. Use a mixture of clean engine oil and STP® (or equivalent) on all moving cylinder kit
parts assembly.
NOTE:
This mixture adheres to the parts for a longer period of time than plain engine oil,
preventing part scuffing at engine start-up. The suggested mix ratio is 8:1 (8 parts engine
oil to 1 part STP, or equivalent).
3. Install the bearing (bushing) in the piston crown.
NOTE:
The bearing should slide into the piston crown without force. With new parts, there is
0.013-2.667 mm (0.0005-0.0105 in.) clearance between the edge of the bushing and
the groove in the piston crown.

CHEMICAL BURNS
4. Lubricate the fluoroelastomer seal ring liberally with the STP/oil mix, and install it on the
piston. See Figure 1-160.
1. Seal Ring 2. Piston Dome
Figure 1-160 Installing Seal Ring
NOTE:
Unlike the former cast iron ring, the new fluoroelastomer ring is compressed when the
skirt is pushed into position on the piston crown. No ring compressor tool is required.
5. Before completely assembling the piston, ensure the seal ring is installed correctly.

NOTICE:
Line up the piston pin opening in the piston skirt with the bearing
(bushing) opening in the piston crown with tool J 24285 to
prevent damage to the pin or bushing.
6. Lubricate the piston pin with the STP/oil mix, and install it. See Figure 1-161.
1. Piston Skirt 3. Piston Pin

2. Piston Dome
Figure 1-161 Installing Piston Dome, Piston Skirt and Piston Pin
7. Install the spacers on the two 7/16 in.-20 x 2 in. connecting rod-to-piston pin attaching
bolts.
8. Apply a small amount of International Compound No. 2, or equivalent, to the bolt threads
and bolt head contact surfaces.
9. Install and tighten the bolts finger tight.
10. Clamp the connecting rod using tool J 36211, and tighten the bolts. Do not exceed
75-81 N·m (55-60 lb·ft) torque.
11. Position a new piston pin retainer.
12. Place the crowned end of installer J 23762-A against the retainer, and strike the tool just
hard enough to deflect the retainer and seat it evenly in the piston.
13. Position the second piston pin retainer.

14. Place the crowned end of installer J 23762-A against the retainer, and strike the tool just
hard enough to deflect the retainer and seat it evenly in the piston. See Figure 1-162.
1. Piston and Connecting Rod 2. Piston Pin Retainer
Figure 1-162 Installing Piston Pin Retainer with Tool J 23762-A
NOTE:
Due to the size of the counterbore in the piston skirt, be careful when installing the piston
pin retainers. Inspect them to ensure they are not buckled and that they are fully seated
in the counterbores. The width of the land should be even around the retainer.
NOTE:
Current specifications may not be available at the time of publication. Refer to your local
distributor, or Detroit Diesel Parts Technical for additional information.
NOTE:
A new piston ring set has been released for all 1983 6V and 8V Federal-certified and
8V California-certified turbocharged automotive engines. California-certified 6V engines
continue to use the 1982 ring package. See Figure 1-163.

1. Oil Rings (Oil Ring Scraper Edges to Point Away from 11. Upper Oil Control Ring Orange Stripe (Chrome OD)
Dome)
2. Dome to Seal Ring (Install with Chamfer Away from 12. Dome to Skirt Seal Ring, Install with Chamfer Away
Dome) from Top of Dome as Shown
3. Compression Rings (Align Gaps of First and Third 13. Third Compression Ring
Rings, 180 Degrees from Gap of Second Ring)
4. Fire Ring (Identification Mark to Face Top of Dome) 14. Second Compression Ring
5. Keystone Fire Ring, Chrome Flash Lower Side 15. First Ring-Fire Ring, Identification Mark to Face Top
of Dome
6. Piston Dome 16. Keystone Fire Ring, Chrome Flash Lower Side
7. Oil Ring Expanders (Green Paint) 9-14 lbs. Tension 17. Piston Dome
8. Piston Skirt 18. Oil Ring Expanders (White Paint) 12-17 lbs. Tension

9. Bottom Side of Ring Slotted (Black Rings) Locate A 19. Piston Skirt
and C Ring Gaps 180 Degrees from Expander Gaps, B
and D Ring Gaps 90 Degrees from A and C Gaps
10. Lower Oil Control Ring Orange Stripe (No Chrome)
Figure 1-163 Piston Ring Installation
NOTE:
Although they are physically interchangeable, the former and new compression rings,
oil control rings and expanders must not be intermixed in an engine. Only the new
piston ring configuration should be used in 1983 6V and 8V Federal-certified and 8V
California-certified turbocharged automotive engines.
NOTE:
The new piston ring configuration may also be used to service all prior 6V and 8V
Federal and California automotive engines, except the 1982 6V California, the 1983 6V
California and all inter-city transit and parlor coach engines.
1.20.5 Installation of Compression Rings
Install the compression rings as follows:

1. Starting with the bottom ring, install the compression rings with tool J 8128.
NOTE:
To avoid breaking or over-stressing the rings, do not spread them any more than
necessary to slip them over the piston.
2. Stagger the ring gaps around the piston.
1.20.6 Installation of Oil Control Rings
Install the oil control rings as follows:
NOTICE:
Lubricate the piston rings and piston with STP, or equivalent,
before installing to prevent serious engine damage.
1. See Figure 1-164 for the type and location.

1. Lower Oil Control Ring, Bottom Side of Ring Slotted 7. First Ring, Fire Ring, Identification Mark to Face Top
(Black Rings) Locate A & C Ring Gaps 180 Degrees of Dome
from Expander Gaps, and B & D Ring Gaps 90 Degrees
from A & C Gaps
2. Oil Control Ring, Orange Stripe (No Chrome) 8. Keystone Fire Ring Chrome Flash Lower Side
3. Oil Control Ring, Orange Stripe (No Chrome OD) 9. Piston Dome
4. Dome to Skirt Seal Ring Install with Chamfer Away 10. Oil Ring Expanders (White Paint) 9-14 lbs. Tension
from Top of Dome as Shown
5. Third Compression Ring, Align Gaps of First and 11. Piston Skirt
Third Rings 180 Degrees from Gap of Second Ring
6. Second Compression Ring, Either Side to Face Top
of Dome
Figure 1-164 Piston Ring Installation, 1983 Federal, 1983 8V-92 California and
Prior Engines (Turbocharged)

NOTICE:
When installing the oil control rings, use care to prevent
overlapping the ends of the ring expanders. An overlapped
expander will cause the oil ring to protrude beyond allowable
limits and will result in breakage when the piston is inserted in
the ring compressor during installation in the cylinder liner.
NOTICE:
To prevent overlapping, do not cut or grind the ends of the
expanders. Cutting or grinding the ends will decrease the
expanding force on the oil control rings and result in high
lubricating oil consumption.
NOTICE:
Do not let the expander ends overlap while installing the piston.
The rings will break.
2. Install the ring expanders in the oil control ring grooves in the piston skirt. Install the
peripheral abutment type ring expanders with the legs of the free ends toward the top
of the piston. See Figure 1-165.
Figure 1-165 Peripheral Abutment Type Oil Ring Expander
3. Lubricate the oil control rings with STP, or equivalent.

NOTICE:
The scraper edges of all oil control rings must face downward
(toward the bottom of the piston) for proper oil control.
4. Install the rings by hand. Starting with the upper half of the top oil ring, align the gaps.
1.20.7 Installation of Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly
Install the piston and connecting rod assembly as follows:

1. Install the piston and connecting rod assembly in the engine. Refer to section 1.23.2.2.
1.20.8 Installation of Cylinder Liner Seal Ring
Install the cylinder liner seal ring as follows:
NOTE:
The following instructions apply when cylinder liners or complete cylinder kit components
are being replaced on the engine. They do not apply when replacement involves piston
ring sets only.
USED ENGINE OIL

NOTE:
The cylinder liner seal rings presently being used are improved composition seal rings
with an orange Teflon coating. They provide highly effective resistance to heat, chemical
and mechanical distortion. Clean engine oil may be used as an assembly lubricant
on the seal rings when installing the liner.
NOTE:
Discontinue the use of hydrogenated vegetable type shortening as a lubricant when
installing Teflon-coated seals. See Figure 1-166.

1. Oil Control Ring 5144622 (Slotted No Chrome) 7. Top (Piston Crown)

2. Oil Control Ring 5102737 (Orange Stripe-No Chrome) 8. Keystone Fire Ring (Grooved) Chrome Flash Lower
Side
3. Oil Control Ring 5102736 (Orange Stripe-Chrome OD) 9. Dome
4. Dome-to-Skirt Seal Ring* 10. Oil Ring Expander Usage†
5. Compression Ring (Either Side to Face Top of Dome) 11. Skirt
6. Fire Ring (Identification Mark to Face Top of Dome)
* Prelube with engine oil at assembly

† Use oil ring expanders yellow paint (high tension) for non-turbo and transit bus applications. Use oil ring expanders green paint
(low tension) for other applications.
Locate A and C ring gaps 180° from expander gaps, and B and D ring gaps from A and C gaps.
Install oil control rings with scraper edges pointed away from top of dome.
Align gaps of first and third rings 180° from gap of second ring.
Use wide gap fire ring for 75 horsepower per-cylinder engines and above. All others use standard gap fire ring.
Figure 1-166 Piston Ring Installation

1. Check piston to liner clearances. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
1.20.8.1 Test Retainer for Leak
Test for leaks as follows:

1. Check each retainer for proper sealing with leak detector J 23987-B. See Figure 1-167.
Figure 1-167 Checking Piston Pin Retainer for Proper Sealing with Tool
J 23987-B
2. Place the suction cup over the retainer.

3. Hand operate the lever to pull a vacuum of ten inches on the gage. A drop in the gage
reading indicates air leakage at the retainer.
[a] If air is leaking, remove the retainer and inspect for burrs. Install a new retainer
and repeat test.
[b] If no air is leaking, refer to section 1.20.9 for installation.
1.20.9 Installation of Piston and Piston Rings
Install the piston and piston rings as follows:

1. Refer to section 1.21.5 to install the piston and connecting rod assembly.

1.21 CONNECTING ROD
The connecting rod is forged to an "I" section with an open or saddle type contour at the upper
end and a bearing cap at the lower end. See Figure 1-168. The bearing cap and connecting rod are
forged in one piece and bored prior to separation.

1.21 CONNECTING ROD
1. Bearing Cap 5. Spacers (2)

2. Bearing Shells 6. Piston Pin Bolts (2)
3. Connecting Rod Bolts 7. Connecting Rod Nuts
4. Connecting Rod
Figure 1-168 Connecting Rod Assembly

The upper end of the connecting rod is machined to match the piston pin contour. The piston pin
is secured to the connecting rod with two self-locking bolts and spacers. Two specially machined
bolts and nuts secure the lower bearing cap to the connecting rod.
Lubricating oil is forced through a "Y" drilled oil passage in the connecting rod to the piston
pin and bushing.
A service connecting rod includes the bearing cap, attaching bolts, and nuts. Refer to section 1.22
for the replaceable connecting rod bearing shells.
Effective with approximate engine serial numbers 6VF-634, 8VF-1243 and 16VF-1004, a solid
core piston pin is used in turbocharged engines. See Figure 1-169. The piston pin has a drilled oil
hole in the center. A tapped hole on each side of the oil hole is provided to receive the connecting
rod attaching bolts. The solid core piston pin is still used, but the identification was removed.
Figure 1-169 Solid Core Piston Pin
1.21.1 Repair or Replacement of Connecting Rod

See Figure 1-170.

1.21 CONNECTING ROD
Figure 1-170 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Connecting Rod
1.21.2 Removal of Connecting Rod
Remove the connecting rod as follows:



4. Remove the oil pump and inlet and outlet pipes, if necessary. Refer to section 3.2.2.
5. Remove the cylinder head. Refer to section 1.3.2.
6. Remove the carbon deposits from the upper inner surface of the cylinder liner.
7. Remove the bearing cap and the lower bearing shell from the connecting rod.
8. Push the piston and rod assembly out through the top of the cylinder block. The piston
cannot be removed from the bottom of the cylinder block.
9. Reassemble the bearing cap, and lower bearing shell to the connecting rod.
1.21.3 Disassembly of Connecting Rod
Disassemble the piston and connecting rod as follows:
NOTE:
Piston assembly components should be matchmarked during disassembly to ensure that
they are reassembled in the same position.
1. Secure the connecting rod in a soft-jawed vise.

2. Remove the piston rings with tool J 8128. See Figure 1-171.
1. Piston Assembly 2. Fire Ring
Figure 1-171 Removing Piston Rings

1.21 CONNECTING ROD
3. Punch a hole through the center of one of the piston pin retainers with a narrow chisel
or punch.
NOTICE:
When prying retainers from the piston, do not damage the piston
or bushing.
4. Pry both retainers from the piston.

5. Loosen the two bolts securing the connecting rod to the piston pin. See Figure 1-172.


4. Connecting Rod
Figure 1-172 Connecting Rod Assembly

1.21 CONNECTING ROD
6. Remove the rod and piston assembly from the vise, and place the assembly on the bench.
Remove the two bolts and spacers and the connecting rod.
7. Withdraw the piston pin.
1.21.3.1 Cleaning of Connecting Rod
Prior to inspection, clean the connecting rod as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

EYE INJURY
1. Clean the connecting rod and piston pin with fuel oil, and dry them with compressed air.
EYE INJURY
2. Blow compressed air through the oil passage in the connecting rod to clear obstructions.
USED ENGINE OIL

3. Use crocus cloth, wet with fuel oil, to remove any trace of fretting and/or corrosion on the
connecting rod saddle and piston pin contact surface before reassembly.
NOTE:
Never use a crocus cloth on the bearing side of the pin.

EYE INJURY
4. Clean the rust preventive from a service replacement connecting rod, and blow compressed
air through the drilled oil passage to ensure it is clear of obstructions.
5. Ensure the split line (cap-to-rod) is thoroughly cleaned to avoid trapped contaminants
from adversely affecting bearing shell "crush."
1.21.3.2 Inspection of Connecting Rod
Inspect the connecting rod as follows:

1. Visually inspect for damage, bending, fretting at split line between connecting rod and
cap, previous bearing or related failure, or blue at either end.
[a] If any of these conditions exist, replace the connecting rod. Refer to section 1.21.5.
[b] If none of these conditions exist, continue inspection.
2. Inspect the bearing (bushing) for scoring, overheating, or other damage.
[a] If scored, overheated, or damaged, replace the bushing.
[b] If not scored, overheated, or damaged, continue inspection.
3. Measure the thickness of the bushing along the center.

1.21 CONNECTING ROD
[a] Replace the bushing if it is worn to a thickness of 2.18 mm (0.086 in.) or less.
NOTE:
A new bushing should be 2.21-2.24 mm (0.087-0.088 in.) thick.
NOTE:
A new piston pin bushing with a shorter oil distribution slot replaced the long slot bushing
in 1986. See Figure 1-173. The short slot bushing provides optimum piston pin and
bushing lubrication, even at maximum loads. Only this bushing should be used.
1. Oil Slot
Figure 1-173 Bearing Faces (ID) of Former and New Piston Pin Bushings

4. Inspect the piston pin for fretting and wear.
NOTICE:
Do not polish or refinish the piston pin. Rapid bushing wear could
result.
[a] Replace the piston pin if it is worn to a diameter of 38.049 mm (1.4980 in.) or less.
NOTE:
A new piston pin has a diameter of 38.090-38.100 mm (1.4996-1.5000 in.).

5. Visually inspect for nicks and burrs in the connecting rod bolt holes.
[a] Remove any nicks or burrs from the connecting rod bolt holes.
[b] If excessively nicked or burred, replace the connecting rod.
NOTE:
If a new service connecting rod is required, stamp the cylinder number on the connecting
rod and cap. Refer to section 1.23.2.2.
[c] If not nicked or burred, proceed with inspection.
NOTE:
When qualifying a used connecting rod from a source other than an original build
engine, the following additional checks should be made. Refer to section 1.21.3.3 and
refer to section 1.21.3.4.

1.21 CONNECTING ROD
1.21.3.3 Inspect using Magnetic Particle Method
See Figure 1-174. Perform the magnetic particle method as follows:
1. Do not use or attempt to salvage rods with an 3. Examples of a transverse indication that does not
indication over 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) deep, and extending follow longitudinal forging flow lines. The indications
over edges of "H" section on both sides of flange. can be either a forging lap heat-treat crack or start of
Cross-Sectioned area is the most highly stressed. a fatigue crack.
2. Start of fatigue crack resulting from overloading (due 4. Example of an indication following longitudinal forging
to hydrostatic lock). Do not attempt to salvage. flow lines.
NOTE: Indications in non-critical areas are acceptable unless they can be observed as obvious cracks without magnetic inspection.
NOTE: Transverse indications (across flow lines), having a maximum length of 12.7 mm (0.50 in.), which can be removed by
grinding no deeper than 0.4 mm (1/64 in.), are acceptable after their complete removal. An exception to this is a rod having an
indication that extends over the edge of the "H" section and is present on both sides of the flange. In this case, maximum
allowable depth is 0.13 mm (0.005 in.).
NOTE: Longitudinal indications following forged lines are usually seams, and are not considered harmful if less than 0.793 mm
(0.0313 in.) deep.
Figure 1-174 Magnetic Particle Inspection Limits for Connecting Rod
1. Magnetize the connecting rod.

2. Apply magnetic particles or solution.
NOTE:
The particles will gather around and cracks in the connecting rod.
[a] If cracks are evident, replace the connecting rod. Refer to section 1.22.3.

[b] If no cracks were detected, continue inspection.

3. Demagnetize the connecting rod.

1.21 CONNECTING ROD
1.21.3.4 Inspect using Bore Diameter Method
See Figure 1-175. Determine the average bore diameter of the rod, using a dial bore gage and
master ring as follows:
Figure 1-175 Dimensional Inspection of Cross-Head Piston Connecting Rod

NOTICE:
Do not over-torque the connecting rod bolt nuts. Over-torquing
may permanently distort the connecting rod cap.
1. Install the connecting rod cap on the connecting rod, and tighten the bolt nuts to 81-95 N·m
NOTICE:
If the crosshead connecting rod bore does not meet
specifications, the rod cannot be machined. It must be replaced.
2. Measure diameter A and B.

3. Obtain average of A and B to obtain size at split line. X = Average of A + B X = [A + B] / 2
4. Measure C. The difference in the results of the measurements X and C gives the average
bore out-of-round and can be 0.013 mm (0.0005 in.) maximum.
5. Add C to X and average to obtain average bore size. Average diameter of bore that must
be within: 82.55-82.58 mm (3.250-3.251 in.) = [C + X] / 2

1.21 CONNECTING ROD
See Figure 1-176. Determine taper as follows:
Figure 1-176 Dimensional Inspection of Cross-Head Piston Connecting Rod

6. Subtract D1 from D2 to find the difference.
NOTE:
The difference can be 0.013 mm (0.0005 in.) maximum.
NOTE:
The length of the rod can be measured on connecting rod measurement fixtures
marketed by B. K. Sweeney, Tobin Arp, or equivalent.
7. Determine length by finding the distance between E1 and E2.
NOTE:
The specifications are 257.07-257.20 mm (10.121-10.126 in.).
[a] If the bore is not within specification, replace the connecting rod. Refer to section
1.22.3.
[b] If the bore is within specifications, reuse the connecting rod.
1.21.4 Assembly of Connecting Rod
Assemble the connecting rod as follows:
NOTE:
The current connecting rod has a 37.34 mm (1.470 in.) wide column and provides
greater strength under severe operating conditions. It can be identified by white paint on
the bottom of the bearing cap. The former connecting rods (33.27 mm and 40.64 mm or
1.310 in. and 1.600 in. wide column) have been superseded and will not be serviced.
See Figure 1-177. The former and current rod assemblies can be mixed in an engine.

1.21 CONNECTING ROD
For maximum benefit, however, a complete set of the current connecting rods should be
installed.
Figure 1-177 Comparison of Connecting Rods
1. Attach the piston pin.

2. Install the two bolts and spacers in the connecting rod and piston.
3. Tighten the bolts.
4. Attach the retainers.
5. Install the piston rings.
1.21.5 Installation of Connecting Rod
Install the connecting rod as follows:

1. Place the piston and rod assembly into the cylinder block.

2. Install the bearing cap and lower bearing shell on the connecting rod.
3. Install the cylinder head. Refer to section 1.3.5.
4. Install the oil pump and inlet and outlet pipes, if necessary. Refer to section 3.2.9.
6. Refill the lubricating system. Refer to section 13.5.1.
7. Refill the cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.

1.22 CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
The connecting rod bearing shells consist of an upper bearing shell seated in the connecting
rod and a lower bearing shell seated in the connecting rod cap. A tang at the parting line on
one end of each bearing shell supports the upper and lower bearing shells in the connecting
rod. See Figure 1-178.


4. Connecting Rod
Figure 1-178 Description of Connecting Rod Assembly

The multiple layer copper-lead co-plated bearings have an inner surface called the matrix,
of copper-lead. A thin deposit of lead-tin is then plated onto the matrix. This improves load
carrying characteristics. These bearings have a satin silver sheen overlay when new and a dull
gray sheen after being in service.
The upper and lower connecting rod bearing shells are not interchangeable. Both shells are
notched midway, 19.1 mm (0.75 in.) from each parting line between the bearing edges, for bolt
clearance and oil flow. The lower bearing shell has a circumferential oil groove that terminates at
the notched ends. These notches maintain a continuous registry with the oil hole in the crankshaft
connecting rod journal, providing a constant supply of lubricating oil to the connecting rod
bearings and piston pin bushing.
1.22.1 Repair or Replacement of Connecting Rod Bearing

See Figure 1-179.
Figure 1-179 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Connecting Rod Bearing

1.22.2 Removal of Connecting Rod Bearing
Remove the connecting rod bearings as follows:
NOTE:
The connecting rod bearing caps are numbered 1L, 1R, 2L, 2R, etc., with matching
numbers and letters stamped on the connecting rod. When removed, the bearing cap
and the bearing shell should always be installed on the original connecting rod.

3. Disconnect and remove the lubricating oil pump inlet pipe and screen assembly.
4. If the oil pump is mounted on the main bearing caps, remove the oil pump. Refer to section
3.2.3.
5. Remove one connecting rod bearing cap.
6. Push the connecting rod and piston assembly up into the cylinder liner.
NOTICE:
To avoid shell damage, do not pound on the edge of the bearing
shell with a sharp tool.
7. Remove the upper bearing shell.

8. Install the bearing shells and bearing cap before another connecting rod bearing cap is
removed.
1.22.2.1 Inspection of Connecting Rod Bearing
Inspect the bearings as follows:

1. Visually inspect the bearings for acid etching, flaking, pitting, scoring, chipping, cracking,
overlap loss, and overheating.
[a] If any of these defects are present, replace the bearings. Refer to section 1.22.3.
[b] If none of these defects are evident, proceed with inspection.
NOTE:
Bearing seizure results from low oil or no lubricating oil.
NOTE:
Overlay plated bearings may develop minute cracks or small isolated cavities on the
bearing surface during engine operation. These are characteristics of and are NOT

detrimental to this type of bearing. The bearings should not be replaced for minor
surface imperfections.
NOTE:
The upper bearing shells, which carry the load, will normally show signs of distress
before the lower bearing shells do.
2. Inspect the backs of the bearing shells for bright spots that indicate they have been
shifting in their supports.
[a] If bright spots are present, replace the bearing shells. Refer to section 1.10.3.
[b] If no bright spots are detected, continue inspection.
3. Examine the backs of the bearing shells for areas of no contact and wear.
[a] If excessively worn and not contacting, replace the bearings and/or the connecting
rod. Refer to section 1.21.5.
[b] If not worn and contacting, continue inspection.
4. Measure the thickness of the bearing shells, using a micrometer and ball attachment
J 4757. Refer to section 1.10.2.2.
NOTE:
The minimum thickness of a worn standard connecting rod bearing shell should not
be less than 3.124 mm (0.1230 in.). A new standard bearing shell has a thickness of
3.147-3.162 mm (0.1240-0.1245 in.), as listed in Table 1-7.
Bearing Size New Bearing Thickness Minimum Worn Thickness

3.15 mm / 3.16 mm 3.12 mm
Standard
(0.1240 in. / 0.1245 in.) (0.1230 in.)
3.28 mm / 3.29 mm 3.25 mm
0.010 in. Undersize
(0.1290 in. / 0.1295 in.) (0.1280 in.)
3.40 mm / 3.42 mm 3.38 mm
0.020 in. Undersize
(0.1340 in. / 0.1345 in.) (0.1330 in.)
3.53 mm / 3.54 mm 3.51 mm
0.030 in. Undersize
(0.1390 in. / 0.1395 in.) (0.1380 in.)
* Thickness 90° from parting line of bearing.
Table 1-7 Rod Bearing Shell Thickness
[a] If either bearing shell is thinner than this dimension, replace both bearing shells.
[b] If bearing shells are within the specified dimensions, continue inspection.
NOTE:
Do not replace one connecting rod bearing shell by itself. If one bearing shell requires
replacement, install new upper and lower bearing shells.

5. Check the clearance between the connecting rod bearing shells and the crankshaft
journal. Squeeze a soft plastic measuring strip between the journal and the bearing.
NOTE:
The maximum connecting rod bearing-to-journal clearance with used parts is 0.142
mm (0.0056 in.)
[a] If the clearance exceeds specifications, replace the connecting rod bearing shells.
[b] If the clearances are within specifications, proceed with inspection.
6. Inspect the connecting rod bearing bore for burrs and foreign particles.
[a] If burrs and foreign particles are present, resurface the bores.
[b] If excessively burred, replace the connecting rod. Refer to section 1.21.5.
[c] If not burred, continue inspection.
7. Inspect the crankshaft journals. Refer to section 1.7.2.2.
NOTE:
Bearing shells are NOT reworkable from one undersize to another under any
circumstances. The set must be the same.
[a] If a new or reground crankshaft will be used, install all new bearing shells.
[b] If reusing the crankshaft and the bearings have passed inspection procedures, reuse
the bearings.
NOTE:
Undersize bearing shells are available in 0.010 in., 0.020 in. and 0.030 in. for service
with reground crankshafts. To determine the required bearing size, refer to section
ADDITIONAL INFORMATIONCrankshaft Grinding. Ensure the correct bearing to journal
clearances are maintained when using these parts.
1.22.3 Installation of Connecting Rod Bearing
Install the connecting rod bearing as follows:

USED ENGINE OIL

1. Wipe the journal, and lubricate it with clean engine oil.

2. Install the upper bearing shell (the one without the continuous oil groove).
NOTE:
Ensure the tang on the shell fits in the groove in the rod.
NOTE:
If there is a visible difference in the color of new upper and lower bearing shells, it is due
to a change in the manufacturing process and they should not be rejected on that basis.
NOTE:
Bearing shell sets from individual suppliers are completely interchangeable and can
be mixed in an engine.
NOTE:
Upper and lower bearing shells are serviced only in sets. Do not replace one main
bearing shell alone. If one bearing shell requires replacement, install all new upper
and lower bearing shells. If a new or reground crankshaft is to be used, install all new
bearing shells.
3. Pull the piston and rod assembly down until the upper rod bearing seats firmly on the
crankshaft journal.
4. Note the number and letter stamped on the bearing cap, and install the lower bearing shell
(the one with the continuous oil groove) into the bearing cap.
5. Install the cap and shell.
6. Lock the bearing caps securely in place with bolts and nuts.
NOTE:
Ensure the connecting rod bolt has not turned in the connecting rod before applying
torque to the nut.
7. Tighten the connecting rod bolt nuts (lubrite nut) to 81-95 N·m (60-70 lb·ft) torque.
8. Install the lubricating oil pump inlet pipe and screen assembly.
9. Install the oil pump. Refer to section 3.2.9.
11. Refill the crankcase to the proper level on the dipstick. Refer to section 13.5.1.

12. If new bearings were installed, operate the engine on the run-in schedule. Refer to section
11.6.6.

1.23 CYLINDER LINER
1.23 CYLINDER LINER
The cylinder liner is a replaceable wet type (water above ports), made of hardened alloy cast iron.
See Figure 1-180. The liner is inserted in the cylinder bore from the top of the cylinder block. The
flange at the top of the liner fits into the cylinder block counterbore and rests on a replaceable cast
iron insert that permits accurate alignment of the cylinder liner.
1. Cylinder Block 4. Flange

2. Seal Rings 5. Air Inlet Ports
3. Cylinder Liner
Figure 1-180 Typical Cylinder Liner Description
Two Teflon-coated seal rings, recessed in the cylinder bore, are used between the liner and the
block to prevent water leakage.
Surrounding water cools the upper half of the liner. Air introduced into the cylinder through
equally spaced inlet ports cools the entire liner. And water inside the surrounding cylinder block
water jacket cools the lower half of the liner.
The air inlet ports in the liner are angled to create a uniform swirling motion to the air as it enters
the cylinder. This motion persists throughout the compression stroke and facilitates scavenging
and combustion.
The wear on a liner and piston is directly related to the amount of abrasive dust and dirt introduced
into the engine combustion chamber through the air intake. This dust, combined with lubricating
oil on the cylinder wall, forms a lapping compound and will result in rapid wear. To avoid pulling
contaminated air into the cylinder, the air cleaners must be serviced regularly.

1.23.1 Repair or Replacement of Cylinder Liner

See Figure 1-181.
Figure 1-181 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Cylinder Liner

1.23 CYLINDER LINER
1.23.2 Removal of Cylinder Liner
See Figure 1-182, and remove the cylinder liner as follows:
1. Lower Shoe and Bolt Assembly 5. Bridge Assembly

2. Upper Shoe 6. Nut
3. Bolt 7. Cylinder Liner
4. Thrust Bearing
Figure 1-182 Removing Cylinder Liner with J 24563-A

NOTICE:
Do not attempt to push the liner out by inserting a bar in the liner
ports and rotating the crankshaft. The piston may be damaged
or the upper ring groove may collapse.
1. Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly. Refer to section 1.20.2 and
2. Ease the lower shoe and bolt assembly into the liner. Place the shoe on the bottom edge of
the liner with the shoe flat parallel to the crankshaft bore.
3. Using tool set J 24563-A, hold the lower shoe and bolt assembly in the pulling position.
4. Place the upper shoe, the flat parallel to the crankshaft bore, over the threaded end of
the bolt.
5. Thread the nut on the bolt assembly.
NOTE:
Ensure pilots on both of the shoes are seated properly.
6. Place the bridge assembly, open end down, over the upper shoe and against the block.
7. With the thrust bearing on the bolt, install the bolt through the bridge assembly strap hole.
8. Thread the bolt into the bolt assembly female threads.
NOTICE:
Always store liners in an upright position. Liners left on their side
for any length of time can become egg-shaped and distorted,
making installation in cylinder bores difficult or impossible.
9. Turn the bolt clockwise, and withdraw the liner from the block.
10. Remove the tool from the liner.
11. Remove and tag the liner insert from the block counterbore.

1.23 CYLINDER LINER
USED ENGINE OIL

PERSONAL INJURY
NOTICE:
When removing the preservative from new liners, do not
steam-clean. Stand the liners upright in a metal basket and
immerse in a suitable cold tank containing pure mineral spirits
or fuel oil. Steam cleaning may cause internal engine parts to
water spot and corrode. Placing liners on their side for cleaning
can lead to liner distortion.
12. Remove and discard both cylinder liner seal rings from the cylinder block bore grooves.
1.23.2.1 Inspection of Cylinder Liner
Inspect the cylinder liner as follows:

1. Inspect cylinder liner for cracks, scoring, poor contact on outer surface, flange
irregularities, inside diameter, outside diameter, out-of-round, and taper.
[a] If cracked or excessively scored, replace the liner. Refer to section 1.23.3.
[b] If slightly scored, clean and reuse.
[c] If not cracked or scored, continue inspection.
2. Examine the outside diameter of the liner for fretting below the ports.
NOTE:
Fretting is the result of a slight liner movement in the block bore during engine operation,
which causes material from the block to adhere to the liner.
[a] If fretted, replace. Refer to section 1.23.3.

[b] If not fretted, continue inspection.
3. Visually inspect for metal particle on the liner surface.

[a] Remove the metal particles from the liner surface with a coarse, flat stone.
[b] If no metal particles are evident, proceed with inspection.
4. Examine the liner for cavitation erosion above the ports.
[a] If eroded, replace the liner. Refer to section 1.23.3.
[b] If not eroded, continue inspection.
5. Inspect the liner flange for smoothness and flatness on both the top and bottom surfaces.
[a] If not smooth or flat, replace as necessary. Refer to section 1.23.3.
[b] If smooth and flat, continue inspection.
6. Visually inspect for cracks at the flange.
[a] If cracked, replace the liner. Refer to section 1.23.3.
[b] If not cracked, proceed with inspection.
7. Visually inspect the liner insert for smoothness and flatness on the top and bottom surfaces.
[a] If not flat or smooth, replace the liner insert. Refer to section 1.23.3.
[b] If flat and smooth, proceed with inspection.
8. Inspect the liner insert for brinelling.
[a] If brinelling is evident, replace the insert. Refer to section 1.23.3.
[b] If no brinelling is detected, continue inspection.
9. Measure the block bore and the outside diameter of the liner. Refer to section
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for the liner-to-block specifications.
[a] If not within specified limits, replace. Refer to section 1.23.3.
[b] If within specified limits, hone the liner and reuse. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION and refer to section 1.23.3.
1.23.2.2 Inspection of Taper and Out-of-Round
Inspect taper and out-of-round as follows:

1.23 CYLINDER LINER
1. Install the liner (new or used) in the proper cylinder block bore, and measure the inside
diameter at various points. See Figure 1-183.
Figure 1-183 Cylinder Liner Measurement Diagram
NOTE:
New service liners have an inside diameter of 122.911-122.974 mm (4.8390-4.8415 in.).
2. Use cylinder bore gage J 5347-B, that has a dial indicator calibrated in 0.0001 in.
increments.
NOTE:
Dial bore gage master setting fixture J 23059-01 may be used in place of the master
ring gage.
3. Set the cylinder bore gage on zero in master ring gage J 24564.

4. Check the liner for taper and out-of-round.
NOTE:
The piston-liner clearance must be within the specified limits. Refer to section
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION. The taper and the out-of-round must not exceed 0.064
mm (0.0025 in.) on a used liner. The taper must not exceed 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) and
the out-of-round must not exceed 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) on a new liner.
[a] If the taper and out-of-round exceed specified limits, replace the liner.
[b] If the taper and out-of-round are within specified limits, reuse the liner.
1.23.3 Installation of Cylinder Liner
Fit the cylinder liner in the block bore as follows:
NOTE:
Smoke and fuel economy improvements were introduced by changing the cylinder liner
port configurations. The port height was reduced from 26.67 to 24.13 mm (1.05 to
0.95 in.) resulting in an increased expansion stroke. The port angle was changed from
30 degrees to 25 degrees to optimize cylinder swirl conditions. These changes reduce
engine smoke levels while meeting required emission levels. Engines must be fitted with
the appropriate cylinder liners.
1. Wipe the inside and outside of the liner clean.
NOTICE:
No two adjacent block counterbores may range in depth more
than 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) when gaged along the longitudinal
cylinder block centerline.
2. Ensure the block bore and counterbore are clean.

3. The cylinder liner is classified according to the flange thickness to help control the distance
from the top of the liner to the top of the cylinder block.
NOTE:
This will allow the liner insert to seat properly. The block counterbore depth must be
from 12.077-12.116 mm (0.4755-0.4770 in.) and must not vary more than 0.038 mm
(0.0015 in.) in depth around the circumference.
□ A cylinder liner with a flange thickness of 7.897-7.874 mm (0.3109-0.3100 in.) (C1)

has the part number etched on the lower bottom half of the liner.
□ A liner with a flange thickness of 7.925-7.899 mm (0.3120-0.3110 in.) (C2) has the
part number etched on the upper bottom half of the liner (below the air inlet ports).
□ Effective December of 1987, liners also have an "L" or "H" etched next to the part
number in these locations. The "L" denotes the thinner range (7.897-7.874 mm or

1.23 CYLINDER LINER
0.3109-0.3100 in.), while the "H" denotes the thicker range (7.925-7.899 mm or
0.3120-0.3110 in.).
4. Place the liner insert (previously tagged) in the block counterbore. See Figure 1-184.
Dimensions and identification of the liner inserts available are listed in Table 1-8.
Size Thickness Identification (New Inserts)

std. 3.02-3.03 mm (0.1188-0.1193 in.) Black Oxide or 2 Purple Stripes
std. 3.05-3.06 mm (0.1200-0.1205 in.) No Color
std. 3.078-3.1 mm (0.1212-0.1217 in.) Copper or 2 Orange Stripes
+ 0.015 in. 3.399-3.4 mm (0.1338-0.1343 in.) White and Purple Strip
+ 0.015 in. 3.43-3.44 mm (0.1350-0.1355 in.) White Strip
+ 0.015 in. 3.46-3.47 mm (0.1362-0.1367 in.) White and Orange Strip
Table 1-8 Dimensions and Identification of Liner Inserts
1. Cylinder Block 4. Flange

2. Seal Rings 5. Air Inlet Ports
3. Cylinder Liner
Figure 1-184 Typical Cylinder Liner Description
5. Push the cylinder liner into the cylinder block until the liner flange rests on the insert. The
liner should slide smoothly in place with hand pressure.
6. Clamp the liner in place with hold-down clamp J 24565-02.

7. Tighten the two bolts to 68 N·m (50 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
The cylinder head bolt hole counterbore has been increased in depth to 20.32 mm
(0.800 in.) on current cylinder blocks. The depth was formerly 12.7 mm (0.500 in.). This
necessitates the use of longer bolts (11/16-11 x 3 in.) for use with the hold-down clamps.
8. Measure the distance from the top of the liner to the top of the block with a dial indicator.
See Figure 1-185.
1. Cylinder Block 3. Hold Down Clamp

2. Hold Down Bolt 4. Cylinder Liner
Figure 1-185 Checking Distance of Liner Flange Below Top Face of Block
using Clamp J 24565-02 and Gage J 24898
NOTE:
The liner flange must be 1.062-1.224 mm (0.0418-0.0482 in.) below the surface of the
block. However, even though all of the liners are within these specifications, there must
not be over 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) difference between any two adjacent liners when
measured along the cylinder longitudinal centerline. If the above limits are not met, install

1.23 CYLINDER LINER
a different thickness insert. Install the liner in another cylinder bore and recheck, or use
a new cylinder liner, listed in Table 1-9.
Size Thickness Identification (New Inserts)

std. 3.02-3.03 mm (0.1188-0.1193 in.) Black Oxide or 2 Purple Stripes
std. 3.05-3.06 mm (0.1200-0.1205 in.) No Color
std. 3.078-3.1 mm (0.1212-0.1217 in.) Copper or 2 Orange Stripes
+ 0.015 in. 3.399-3.4 mm (0.1338-0.1343 in.) White and Purple Strip
+ 0.015 in. 3.43-3.44 mm (0.1350-0.1355 in.) White Strip
+ 0.015 in. 3.46-3.47 mm (0.1362-0.1367 in.) White and Orange Strip
Table 1-9 Dimensions and Identification of Liner Inserts
9. Matchmark the liner and the cylinder block with a felt pen so the liner may be installed
in the same position in the same block bore. Place the matchmarks on the side opposite
the camshaft.
10. Remove the hold-down clamp and the cylinder liner.
NOTE:
Do not remove the liner insert.
Install the cylinder liner as follows:

1. Assemble the piston. Refer to section 1.20.4.
2. Assemble the connecting rod. Refer to section 1.21.4.
USED ENGINE OIL

3. Lubricate the piston, rings and the inside surface of the piston ring compressor J 24227-B.
Use an 8:1 mixture of clean engine oil and STP, or equivalent.
NOTICE:
Inspect the ring compressor for nicks or burrs, especially at the
non-tapered inside diameter end. Nicks or burrs on the inside
diameter of the compressor will damage the piston rings.
4. Place the piston ring compressor on a wood block, with the tapered end of the ring
compressor facing up.
5. Stagger the piston ring gaps on the piston. Ensure ends of the oil control ring expanders
are not overlapped.

6. Start the top of the piston straight into the ring compressor. Push the piston down until it
contacts the wood block. See Figure 1-186 for "Operation 1".
Figure 1-186 Installing Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly in Ring

Compressor and Cylinder Liner
7. Note the position of the matchmark, and place the liner, with the flange end down, on
the wood block.
8. Place the ring compressor and the piston and connecting rod assembly on the liner so the
rod and cap numbers are aligned with the matchmark on the liner. See Figure 1-187
for "Operation 2".
NOTE:
The numbers on the side of the connecting rod and cap relate the rod to the cap and
indicate the particular cylinder in which they are used. If a new service connecting rod
will be installed, the same identification numbers must be stamped in the same location
as on the connecting rod that was replaced.

1.23 CYLINDER LINER
NOTICE:
Do not force the piston into the liner. The peripheral abutment
type expanders apply considerable force on the oil ring. Extra
care must be taken while loading to prevent ring breakage.
9. Push the piston and connecting rod assembly into the liner until the piston is free of the
ring compressor. See Figure 1-187 for "Operation 2".
Figure 1-187 Installing Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly in Ring

Compressor and Cylinder Liner
10. Remove the connecting rod cap and the ring compressor.
11. Push the piston down until the compression rings pass the cylinder liner ports.
12. Ensure the seal ring grooves in the cylinder block bore are clean. Install a new seal ring
in each groove.

USED ENGINE OIL

NOTE:
Clean engine oil may be used to supplement lubrication when installing liner-to-block
seal rings. Do not use hydrogenated vegetable type shortening.
NOTICE:
During liner installation, always check to ensure that the seal
rings remain in the seal ring grooves of the block.
13. If any of the pistons and liners are already in the engine, use hold-down clamps to retain
the liners in place when the crankshaft is rotated.
14. Rotate the crankshaft until the connecting rod journal of the cylinder is at the bottom of
its travel.
USED ENGINE OIL

15. Wipe the journal, and lubricate it with clean engine oil.
16. Install the piston and connecting rod assembly. Refer to section 1.20.7 and refer to section
1.21.5.
17. If new parts were installed, operate the engine on the run-in schedule. Refer to section
11.6.6.

1.24 ENGINE BALANCE AND BALANCE WEIGHTS
1.24 ENGINE BALANCE AND BALANCE WEIGHTS
In the balance of the two cycle engine, it is important to consider disturbances due to the
reciprocating action of the piston masses. These disturbances are of two kinds; unbalanced forces
and unbalanced couples. These forces and couples are considered either primary or secondary,
depending on whether their frequency is equal to or twice the engine speed. Although it is
possible to have unbalanced forces or couples at frequencies higher than the second order, they
are inconsequential compared to the primary forces and couples. Even the secondary forces and
couples are usually of little practical significance.
The reciprocating masses (the piston and upper end of the rod) produce an unbalanced couple
because of the crankshaft arrangement. This unbalanced couple tends to move the ends of the
engine in an elliptical path. This couple is canceled by incorporating an integral crankshaft
balance component and by placing balance weights at the outer ends of the camshafts. These
camshaft balance weights are integral to the camshaft gears and the camshaft front pulley. An
additional balance weight is bolted to the water pump drive gear used on the 6V and 8V engines.
This balance arrangement produces a couple that is equal in magnitude and opposite in direction
to the primary couple.
On the camshafts, each set of weights (weights on the outer ends of one cylinder comprise a set)
rotate in opposite directions. When the weights on either end of the engine are in a vertical plane,
their centrifugal forces are in the same direction and oppose the primary couple. When they are
in a horizontal plane, the centrifugal forces oppose each other are canceled. The front balance
weights act in a direction opposite to the rear balance weights. Therefore, rotation will result in a
couple effective only in a vertical plane. This couple, along with that built into the crankshaft,
forms an elliptical couple that completely balances the primary couple.
Both the rotating and primary reciprocating forces and couples are completely balanced in the
engine. There are no secondary forces present. Consequently, the engine will operate smoothly
and in balance throughout its entire speed range.
A camshaft torsion vibration damper is mounted to an adaptor hub attached to the water pump
driver gear used on the 8V engines.

1.25 GEAR TRAIN AND ENGINE TIMING
A train of helical gears, completely enclosed between the engine end plate and the flywheel
housing, is located at the rear of the engine. The gear train includes a crankshaft gear, an idler
gear, two camshaft gears and a blower drive gear. For non-turbocharged engines, a step-up gear
is attached to the right-bank camshaft gear that meshes with and drives the blower drive gear.
See Figure 1-188.
1. LH Camshaft Drive Gear 4. RH Camshaft Gear

2. Blower Drive Assembly 5. Step-Up Gear
3. Rear End Plate
Figure 1-188 Blower Drive Gear Mounting (Non-Turbocharged Engines)
A helical gear train is located at each end of a 12V or 16V engine. Each gear train includes two
camshaft gears, an idler gear and a crankshaft timing gear. See Figure 1-189.

1. Camshaft Gears 3. Crankshaft Gear

2. Idler Gear
Figure 1-189 Gear Train and Timing Marks for 12V and 16V Engines

The crankshaft gear, bolted to the flange at the rear of the crankshaft, drives the camshaft gears
and the blower drive gear through an idler gear mounted on a stationary hub on either the right or
left-hand side of the engine, depending upon the engine rotation.
The camshaft gears are pressed on and keyed to their respective shafts. Each is secured with a
nut and gear nut retainer.
The two camshaft gears mesh with each other and run at the same speed as the crankshaft gear.
Since the camshaft gears must be in time with each other, and the two, as a unit, must be in
time with the crankshaft gear, timing marks have been stamped on the gear faces to facilitate
correct gear train timing. See Figure 1-190. The symbol system of gear marking makes gear train
timing a comparatively easy operation. When assembling the engine, remember the engine
rotation. Working from the crankshaft gear, to the idler gear, and to the camshaft gear, line up the
appropriate symbols on the gears as each gear assembly is installed on the engine.

2. Idler Gear

Since there are no timing marks on the accessory drive gear or the blower drive gear, it is not
necessary to align these gears in any particular position during installation.
The correct relationship between the crankshaft and the two camshafts must be maintained to
properly control fuel injection, the opening and closing of the exhaust valves, and engine balance.
An "out-of-time" engine may result in pre-ignition, uneven running, and power loss.
Since one attaching bolt hole is offset, the crankshaft timing gear can be mounted in only one
position. The keyway location in each camshaft dictates the only position the two camshaft
gears can be mounted. When the engine is properly timed, the timing marks on the various
gears will match.
Since the blower drive gear and the accessory drive gear have about half as many teeth as the
camshaft gears, they turn at approximately twice the crankshaft speed.
The backlash between the various mating gears in the gear train should be 0.01-0.03 mm
(0.002-0.008 in.), and should not exceed 0.04 mm (0.010 in.) backlash between worn gears.
Overflow oil from the camshaft pockets spilling into the gear train compartment and splash from
the oil pan lubricates the gear train. Some oil spills into the gear train compartment from the
camshaft rear end bearings, the blower drive gear bearing, and the idler gear bearing. Oil, directly
from the cylinder block oil gallery to the idler gear bearing hub, lubricates the idler gear bearing.
The blower drive gear bearing is lubricated through an external pipe from the blower rear end
plate to the blower drive support.
When an engine is out of time, the camshaft timing can be checked by following the camshaft
timing check procedure. If the engine is out of time, visually inspect the gear train.
Refer to section 1.25.1 and perform all steps.
NOTE:
Line up the timing marks and make a sketch indicating their position before removing
or replacing any gears in the gear train.
NOTE:
Before removing or replacing any of the gears, rotate the crankshaft in the direction of
engine rotation until the diamond timing marks are aligned on the front camshaft gears
or the triangle timing marks are aligned on the rear camshaft gears. See Figure 1-191.

Check whether the "L" or "R" timing mark on the crankshaft gear is aligned with the "L" or
"R" on the idler gear. Record this information for reassembly purposes.

2. Idler Gear
NOTE:
When the gear train is installed (and the timing marks properly aligned) at one end of the
engine, the crankshaft must be rotated 180 degrees in the direction of engine rotation to
align the timing marks on the gear train at the other end of the engine.
Gear train noise is usually an indication of excessive gear lash, chipped, pitted or burred gear
teeth, or excessive bearing wear. When noise develops in a gear train, the flywheel housing
should be removed to inspect the gear train and its bearings. A rattling noise usually indicates
excessive gear lash. A whining noise indicates too little gear lash.

1.25.1 Inspect Engine Timing
Check the engine timing without removing the flywheel and flywheel housing as follows:
NOTE:
Access to the vibration damper or crankshaft pulley is necessary when performing the
timing check.
1. Clean and remove one valve rocker cover. Refer to section 1.6.2.
2. Select any cylinder adjacent to any valve rocker cover bolt or stud holes for the timing
check.
3. Remove the injector. Refer to section 2.2.2.
4. Carefully slide a rod, approximately 12 in. long, through the injector tube until the rod end
rests on top of the piston.
5. Place the throttle in the no-fuel position.
6. Turn the crankshaft slowly in the direction of engine rotation. Stop when the rod reaches
the end of its upward travel.
7. Remove the rod, and turn the crankshaft, opposite the direction of engine rotation,
between 1/16 and 1/8 of a turn.
8. Select a dial indicator with 0.001 in. graduations and a spindle movement of at least
one inch.
9. Provide an extension for the indicator spindle.
NOTE:
The extension must be long enough to contact the piston just before it reaches the
end of its upward stroke.
10. Select suitable mounting attachments for the indicator so it can be mounted over the
injector tube in the cylinder head.
11. Mount the indicator over the injector tube.
NOTE:
The indicator mounting may be threaded into the rocker cover stud or the tapped hole in
the cylinder head. The indicator spindle must move freely in the injector tube hole.
12. Attach a suitable pointer to the crankshaft front cover.
NOTE:
The outer end of the pointer should extend over the top of the crankshaft pulley or
vibration damper.
13. Turn the crankshaft slowly in the direction of engine rotation until the indicator hand
stops moving.

14. Continue turning the crankshaft until the indicator hand starts to move again.
15. Reset the dial to zero.
16. Turn the crankshaft until the indicator reading is 0.010 in.
17. Scribe a line, aligned with the pointer end, on the crankshaft pulley or vibration damper.
18. Slowly turn the crankshaft opposite the direction of engine rotation until the indicator
hand stops moving.
19. Continue turning the crankshaft until the indicator hand starts to move again.
20. Reset the dial to zero.
21. Turn the crankshaft until the indicator reading is 0.010 in.
22. Scribe a second line, aligned with the pointer end, on the crankshaft pulley or vibration
damper.
23. Scribe a third line half way between the first two lines. This is top dead center.
24. Remove the indicator and rod from the engine.
25. If the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt has loosened, tighten it to the specified torque.
26. Install the injector. Refer to section 2.2.5.
27. Adjust the valve clearance, and time the injector. Refer to section 12.2.
28. Turn the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation until the selected cylinder's exhaust
valves are completely open.
29. Install the dial indicator so the indicator spindle rests on top of the injector follower.
30. Set the indicator dial to zero.
31. Turn the crankshaft slowly in the direction of engine rotation until the center mark on the
pulley is aligned with the pointer.

32. Note the indicator reading, and compare it with the dimensions listed in Table 1-10.
Indica- Indicator Indicator

tor Reading Reading
Reading Re- Ad-
Correct tarded vanced
Federal California at at at Correct
Year of Certification Certification Cam 1 Tooth 1 Tooth 1 Tooth (at
Engine Certification Label Label ID* † † † Cam)
All 1974-1976 X X 3J28 0.230 0.197 0.262 0.187
6V 1977-1978 X — 3J28 0.230 0.197 0.262 0.187
and 1977-1978 — X 3J33 0.197 0.165 0.230 0.160
8V 1979 X X 3J32 0.204 0.171 0.237 0.166
1980-1981 X — 3J32 0.204 0.171 0.237 0.166
1980-1981 — X 3J41 0.139 0.106 0.172 0.113
1982-1983 X X 3J32 0.204 0.171 0.237 0.166
1984 X — 3J28 0.230 0.197 0.262 0.187
1984 — X 3J32 0.204 0.171 0.237 0.166
1987 X X 3J30 0.230 0.187 0.251 0.178
1985-1989 X — 3J32 0.204 0.171 0.237 0.166
1985-1989 — X 3J41 0.139 0.106 0.172 0.113
1988-1990 ‡ X X 21J36 0.192 0.159 0.224 0.156
1991 ‡ X X 21J42 0.145 0.112 0.178 0.118
All
12V
Rear Cam 1980-1989 - - 3J32 0.204 0.171 0.237 0.166
Front Cam 1980-1989 - - 3J32 0.215 0.182 0.248 0.175
All
16V
Rear Cam 1974-1989 - - 3J28 0.230 0.197 0.262 0.187
Front Cam 1974-1989 - - 3J28 0.241 0.208 0.271 0.196
* Camshaft identification stamped in rear end of camshaft
† Indicator readings shown are nominal values. The allowable tolerance is ± 0.005 in.
‡ DDEC Engines
Table 1-10 Engine Timing
33. Remove the dial indicator.

34. Remove the pointer from the crankshaft front cover.
35. Install the valve rocker cover.

1.26 CAMSHAFTS AND BEARINGS
The contra-rotating camshafts are located just below the top of the cylinder block. A left cylinder
bank and a right cylinder bank camshaft are provided to actuate the exhaust valve and injector
operating mechanism.
A bearing assembly, consisting of a flanged housing and two bushings, support both ends of each
camshaft. Intermediate two-piece bearings support the camshafts at uniform intervals throughout
their length. Lock rings secure the intermediate bearings to the camshaft, permitting them to be
inserted in the cylinder block with the shafts. After the camshafts are installed, each intermediate
bearing is secured with a lock screw threaded into a cylinder block top counterbored hole.
Two thrust washers, one on each end of the rear camshaft end bearing, absorbs the camshaft gear
thrust load on each shaft.
A camshaft front pulley (integral weight) is attached to the front end of the left-bank camshaft. A
water pump drive gear (bolt-on weight) is attached to the front end of the right-bank camshaft. A
camshaft gear is attached to the rear end of each camshaft. The pulley and the gears are retained
on the camshafts with a retaining nut or a lock bolt and washer.
8V engines are equipped with a rubber bushed camshaft torsional vibration damper that is keyed
and bolted to a hub attached to the water pump drive gear with three bolts, plain washers, and
lock washers.
Lubricating oil is supplied under pressure to the bearings via drilled passages in the rear of the
cylinder block, which lead from the main oil gallery to each rear end bearing. From the rear end
bearings, the oil passes through the drilled oil passages in the camshafts to the intermediate
bearings and to the front end bearings.
The lower halves of the camshaft intermediate bearings are grooved along the horizontal surface
that mates with the upper halves of the bearings. Oil from the camshaft passage is forced through
the milled slots in the bearing and out the grooves to furnish additional oil to the cam follower
rollers. The cam pocket fills rapidly to the operating oil level immediately after starting the
engine. See Figure 1-192.

1. Nut 13. Woodruff Key

2. LH Camshaft Gear 14. RH Front End Bearing
3. Thrust Washers 15. Intermediate Bearing Assemblies
4. LH Rear End Bearing 16. RH Camshaft Gear
5. Lock Washer 17. Lower Intermediate Bearing
6. Bolt 18. Camshaft
7. LH Front Pulley 19. LH Front End Bearing Gasket
8. Front Pulley Lock Washer 20. LH Front End Bearing
9. Front Pulley Nut 21. Oil Seal
10. Water Pump Drive Gear 22. Locking Rings
11. RH Balance Weight Assembly 23. Hold-Down Screw
12. Spacer 24. Upper Intermediate Bearing
Figure 1-192 Description of Camshaft and Bearing Assembly

On 12V and 16V engines, the counter-rotating camshafts are located near the top of the cylinder
block. There are two camshafts in each cylinder bank. Each camshaft actuates the valve and
injector operating mechanism in one of the cylinder heads.
A three-piece bearing supports the end of each camshaft. Intermediate two-piece bearings support
the camshafts at uniform intervals throughout their length. Lock rings hold these intermediate
bearings around the camshaft bearing surfaces, permitting them to be inserted into the block with
the shaft. A lock screw, sunk into a counterbore at the top of the block, secures each intermediate
bearing and inner end bearing. A 3/8 in. x 0.5 in. split copper washer is used under the lock
screws at the inner end bearings on current engines.
Lubrication is supplied under pressure, via angular drilled passages in the ends of the cylinder
block, which lead from the main oil gallery to each camshaft rear end bearing. From the rear end
bearings, oil flows through the drilled camshafts to the intermediate bearings and the inner end
bearings.
The current inner camshaft end bearings have one 12.7 mm (0.5 in.) chamfered hole and two
6.4 mm (0.25 in.) chamfered holes to ensure alignment with the oil supply hole to the overhead
mechanism. At engine overhaul, be sure to install the current bearings on early engines (prior to
approximate engine serial No. 16VF-1260).
1.26.1 Repair or Replacement of Camshafts and Bearings

See Figure 1-193.

Figure 1-193 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Camshafts and Bearings
1.26.2 Removal of Camshafts and Bearings (Flywheel Housing and

Transmission Removed)
Whenever an engine is to be completely reconditioned, or the bearings, thrust washers, or gears

need replacing, remove the camshafts as follows:

1. Drain the engine cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.3.

2. Remove all of the accessories and assemblies necessary to mount the engine on an
overhaul stand. Refer to section 1.1.2.
3. Mount the engine on the overhaul stand.
NOTICE:
Prior to releasing the lifting sling, ensure the engine is securely
mounted on the overhaul stand. Serious personal injury and
engine damage could result.
4. Remove the lifting sling.

5. Remove the cylinder heads. Refer to section 1.3.2.
FALLING ENGINE
BODILY INJURY
load.
FALLING ENGINE
NOTICE:
The flywheel housing must be securely attached to the lifting
sling before removing from the engine. Damage to Flywheel
housing may result if it breaks away from the lifting device and
falls.

8. Remove the water pump. Refer to section 4.2.2.

9. Remove the front balance weight cover. Refer to section 1.26.2.
10. Remove the bolts and step-up gear, if used, from the rear right-bank camshaft gear.
11. Remove the bolts securing the nut retaining plates to the camshaft gears. Remove the
nut retaining plates.
12. Wedge a clean rag between the gears, and remove the gear retaining nut from both ends of
each camshaft. See Figure 1-194.
NOTE:
On left– hand rotation engines, remove the lock bolt and washer from the right-bank
camshaft.
1. LH Camshaft Gear 3. Rag

2. RH Camshaft Gear
Figure 1-194 Loosening Camshaft Gear Retaining Nut

13. Attach puller J 24420-C to the camshaft pulley. Use cam pulley remover adaptor J 7932
between the end of the camshaft and the pulley screw to protect the end of the camshaft.
See Figure 1-195.
1. RH Balance Weight and Camshaft Assembly 2. LH Camshaft Pulley
Figure 1-195 Removing Camshaft Pulley
14. Remove the camshaft vibration damper and hub from the water pump drive gear, if used.
15. Remove the water pump drive gear from the front end of the right-bank camshaft, using
J 24420-C and water pump gear puller adaptor J 7932.
16. Remove the Woodruff key and the spacer from the front end of each camshaft.
17. Remove all camshaft intermediate bearing lock screws from the top of the cylinder block.
On 12V and 16V engines, insert a socket wrench through the camshaft web hole to remove
end bearing to cylinder block bolts.

18. Rotate the camshaft gears as required to reveal the camshaft end bearing retaining bolts.
Remove the bolts. See Figure 1-196.
1. Rear End Plate 3. Camshaft Assembly

2. LH Camshaft Gear 4. RH Camshaft Gear
Figure 1-196 Removing Camshaft End Bearing Bolt and Camshaft Assemblies

19. Withdraw each camshaft, bearing, and gear assembly from the cylinder block.
20. Remove the camshaft front end bearing retaining bolts. Withdraw the bearings from the
cylinder block. If necessary, use a pry bar under the bearing flange.
21. On 12V and 16V engines, remove the lock screw and copper washer, if used, from the top
of the cylinder block. Slide the bearings out of the block.
1.26.3 Removal of Camshaft (Flywheel Housing and Transmission

Installed)
To remove camshafts when the flywheel housing and transmission are in place, proceed as follows:
NOTE:
The camshaft may be removed and replaced without removing the flywheel housing and
disconnecting the transmission if there is space enough to slide the shaft out through
the front of the engine and attach the camshaft gear puller tool J 1902-B to the flywheel
housing.
1. Drain the engine cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.3.

2. Remove the radiator. Refer to section 4.6.2.
3. Remove the heat exchanger and all attaching parts. Refer to section 4.9.2.

4. Remove all parts, accessories and assemblies necessary to facilitate removal of the
flywheel housing hole cover over the camshaft and the front balance weight cover.
See Figure 1-197.
1. Flywheel Housing Assembly 4. Flywheel Housing Cover

2. Camshaft Gear 5. Lock Washer
3. Gasket 6. Bolt
Figure 1-197 Removing Flywheel Housing Covers
5. Remove the cylinder head. Refer to section 1.3.2.

6. Remove the front balance weight cover. Refer to section 1.26.2.
7. Remove the camshaft gear nut retaining plate.
8. Block the crankshaft, between the crankshaft throw and the cylinder block.
9. Remove the gear retaining nut or lock bolt and washer from both ends of the camshaft.
10. If removing a left-bank camshaft, attach puller J 24420-C to the camshaft pulley.
11. Use adaptor J 7932 between the end of the camshaft and the pulley screw to protect the
end of the camshaft.
12. If removing a right-bank camshaft, remove the camshaft vibration damper and hub from
the water pump drive gear, if used.
13. Remove the water pump gear and spacer from the front end of the camshaft, using puller
J 24420-C and adaptor J 7932.
14. Remove the Woodruff key and the spacer from the front end of the camshaft.

15. Remove all camshaft intermediate bearing lock screws from the top of the cylinder block.
16. Remove the three bolts that secure the camshaft bearing to the front end plate.
17. Install the camshaft gear puller J 1902-B, four spacers and camshaft gear puller adaptor
plate from set J 6202-01 on the camshaft gear. See Figure 1-198.
1. Camshaft Gear 6. Camshaft Puller Adaptor Plate

2. Camshaft 7. Spacer
3. Camshaft End Bearing 8. Bolt (Adaptor) Plate-to-Gear
4. Thrust Washer 9. Camshaft Gear Puller Tool
5. Flywheel Housing 10. Bolt (Adaptor Plate-to-Flywheel Housing)
Figure 1-198 Removing Camshaft Gear with Camshaft Gear Puller
18. Turn the puller center screw clockwise to disengage the camshaft gear.
NOTE:
Do not remove the puller or the adaptor plate until the camshaft is installed. The adaptor
plate secured to both the flywheel housing and the camshaft gear, will hold the gear and
the thrust washers securely in place. This will aid camshaft installation.

19. Remove the front bearing from the camshaft. Pull the camshaft and intermediate bearings
from the cylinder block. See Figure 1-199.
1. Puller and Adaptor Plate Tool 4. Camshaft Assembly

2. Cylinder Block Assembly 5. Front End Bearing
3. Front End Plate
Figure 1-199 Removing Camshaft Assembly From Engine
1.26.4 Disassembly of Camshaft
Disassemble the camshaft as follows:

1. Remove the gear from each camshaft. Refer to section 1.27.2.

2. Slide the camshaft rear end bearing and thrust washers off each camshaft.
1. Camshaft Gear Nut 9. Bolt

2. LH Camshaft Gear 10. RH Camshaft Gear
3. Thrust Washer 11. LH Camshaft Assembly
4. LH Rear End Bearing 12. LH Front End Bearing
5. Camshaft Plug 13. Lock Rings
6. RH Camshaft Assembly 14. Upper Intermediate Bearing
7. RH Camshaft Rear End Bearing 15. Lower Intermediate Bearing
8. Lock Washer
Figure 1-200 Camshaft Disassembly
3. Remove the lock rings from the camshaft intermediate bearings, freeing the halves of
each bearing.

To facilitate the removal of any foreign material lodged behind the plugs, remove the end plugs
from each camshaft, as follows:
1. Clamp the camshaft in a soft-jawed vise, being careful not to damage the cam lobes or
machined surfaces of the shaft.
2. Make an indentation in the center of the camshaft end plug with a 31/64 in. drill (carboloy
tip).
3. Punch a deep hole with a center punch, to aid in breaking through the hardened surface of
the plug.
4. Drill a hole straight through the center of the plug with a 1/4 in. drill (carboloy tip).
5. Use the 0.25 in. drilled hole as a guide, and drill the plug with a 0.3125 in. drill (carboloy
tip).
6. Tap the drilled hole with a 3/8 in.-16 tap.
7. Thread a 3/8 in.-16 adaptor J 6471-2 (from set J 6471-02) into the plug.
8. Attach a slide hammer J 2619-5 to the adaptor, and strike a weight against the handle
to remove the plug.
9. Insert a length of 3/8 in. steel rod in the camshaft oil gallery, and drive the remaining
plug out.
If a steel rod is not available, remove the remaining plug as follows:
NOTICE:
Be careful not to damage the cam lobes or machined surfaces
of the shaft.
1. Clamp the camshaft in a soft-jawed vise.

2. Make an indentation in the center of the camshaft end plug with a 31/64 in. drill (carboloy
tip).
3. Punch a deep hole with a center punch, to aid in breaking through the hardened surface of
the plug.
4. Drill a hole straight through the center of the plug with a 1/4 in. drill (carboloy tip).
5. Use the 1/4 in. drilled hole as a guide, and drill the plug with a 5/16 in. drill (carboloy tip).
[a] Tap the drilled hole with a 3/8 in.-16 tap.
[b] Thread a 3/8 in.-16 adaptor J 6471-2 (from set J 6471-02) into the plug. Remove
the plug by striking the handle.
1.26.4.1 Cleaning of Camshaft and Bearings
Prior to inspection, clean the camshafts and bearings as follows:

USED ENGINE OIL

1. Soak the camshaft in clean fuel oil.

2. Run a wire brush through the oil gallery to remove any foreign material or sludge.
EYE INJURY
3. Clean the camshaft exterior, and blow out the oil gallery and the oil holes with compressed
air.
USED ENGINE OIL

EYE INJURY
4. Clean the camshaft bearings and related parts with fuel oil, and dry them with compressed
air.

EYE INJURY
5. If a new camshaft is to be installed, steam clean it to remove the rust preventive, and blow
out the oil passages with compressed air.
1.26.4.2 Inspection of Camshafts and Bearings
Inspect the camshafts and bearings as follows:

1. Visually inspect the cams and journals for wear or scoring.
[a] If the cams are scored, inspect the cam followers. Refer to section 1.5.6.2.
[b] If the cams and journals are excessively scored or worn, replace them.
[c] If not worn or scored, continue inspection.
2. Inspect the camshaft keyways and threads for damage.
[a] If damaged, replace the camshaft. Refer to section 1.26.6.
[b] If not damaged, continue inspection.
NOTE:
The camshaft can be in or out of the engine during this inspection.

3. With a tapered leaf set of feeler gages, 0.038-0.25 mm (0.0015-0 .010 in.), and a square
piece of hard material (1/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 1 in.), measure the flat on the injector rise
side of the cam lobes. See Figure 1-201.
1. Camshaft 3. Harden Material

2. Feeler Gage
Figure 1-201 Checking Cam Lobe Wear
[a] If the flats measure more than 0.08 mm (0.003 in.) in depth, replace the camshaft.
[b] If the flats measure less than 0.08 mm (0.003 in.) in depth, and there are no other
defects, the camshaft is serviceable. Continue inspection.
[c] A slightly worn cam lobe, still within acceptable limits, may be stoned and smoothed
with a fine crocus cloth.
4. With the camshaft mounted on the end bearing surfaces, check the run-out at the center
bearing.
[a] If the run-out exceeds 0.05 mm (0.002 in.), replace the camshaft. Refer to section
1.26.6.
[b] If the run-out does not exceed 0.05 mm (0.002 in.), continue inspection.
5. Visually inspect both faces of each camshaft rear end bearing and thrust washer for
scoring or wear.
[a] If excessively scored or worn, replace the bearings or thrust washer. Refer to section
1.26.6.

[b] If minimally scored or worn, smooth with an oil stone.

[c] If not scored or worn, continue inspection.
6. Visually inspect the surfaces of every camshaft and camshaft gear that contacts the thrust
washers for wear or scoring.
[a] Replace excessively worn or scored parts. Refer to section 1.26.6.
[b] If minimally worn or scored, smooth with an oil stone.
NOTE:
New standard size thrust washers are 3.02-3.10 mm (0.119-0.122 in.) thick. The
clearance between the thrust washer and the thrust shoulder of the camshaft is .08-0.38
mm (0.003-0.0015 in.) with new parts, or a maximum of 0.46 mm (0.018 in.) with used
parts. Excessive clearance may be reduced by using thrust washers that are 0.13-0.25
mm (0.005-0.010 in.) oversize.
NOTE:
When the thrust surfaces of a camshaft are ground undersize, a radius of 3.10-9.40 mm
(0.122-0.370 in.) must be maintained between the bearing surface of the thrust collar
shoulder and the camshaft bearing surface. See Figure 1-202. A fillet radius gage may
be used to measure the specified radii.
Figure 1-202 Camshaft Journal Fillet
7. Inspect the bushings in the front and rear camshaft end bearings for wear or turning in
the bearing.

[a] Replace the bushings if they are worn excessively (maximum of 0.152 mm or
0.006 in. bushing to shaft clearance) or if the bushings have turned in the bearing.
[b] If the bushings are not worn or turned, continue inspection.
NOTE:
Rear camshaft end bearings are available in 0.010-0.020 in. undersize for use with worn
or reground shafts with clearances that exceed the specified limits.
NOTE:
New bushings must be finish bored to a 20 rms finish after installation and checked for
the proper press fit, which is indicated if the bushings will not move when a 2000 pound
end load is applied. Also, the inside diameter of the bushings must be square with
the rear face of the bearing within 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) total indicator reading, and
concentric with the outside diameter of the bearing housing within 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
total indicator reading. The bushings must project 1.14-1.40 mm (0.045-0.055 in.) from
each end of the rear camshaft end bearings. The bushings in the front camshaft end
bearings must be flush with the ends of the bushing bore.
NOTE:
The clearance between the camshaft end journals and the camshaft end bearing
bushings for 6V engines is 0.064-0.102 mm (0.0025-0.004 in.). For 8V engines it is
0.089-0.13 mm (0.0035-0.005 in.) with new parts, or a maximum of 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
with used parts. Undersize and oversize camshaft end bearings are available for service.
8. Visually inspect the oil seal in the left-bank camshaft front end bearing for wear or damage.
[a] If worn or damaged, replace the seal. Refer to section 1.26.6.
[b] If not worn or damaged, proceed with inspection.
9. Visually inspect the spacer used at the front end of each camshaft for wear.
NOTE:
The outside diameter of the spacer used in the left-hand front end bearing must provide a
smooth oil seal contact surface. The outside diameter is not ground and polished on the
original spacer used on the right-bank camshaft. Only the polished spacer is available
for service and may be used in either position.
[a] If worn, replace the spacer. Refer to section 1.26.7.

10. Visually inspect the camshaft intermediate bearings for scoring or wear.
[a] If excessively scored or worn, replace the camshaft intermediate bearings.

[b] If not scored or worn, continue inspection.
NOTE:
The clearance between the camshaft journals and the intermediate bearings is
0.064-0.013 mm (0.0025-0.0005 in.) with new parts, or a maximum of 0.23 mm (0.009
in.) with worn parts. Undersize and oversize camshaft intermediate bearings are
available for service.
11. Visually inspect the intermediate bearing lock screws and the tapped holes in the cylinder
block for damaged threads.
[a] If damaged, replace. Refer to section 1.26.5.
12. Visually inspect the teeth of the water pump drive gear and the camshaft gears for scoring,
pitting, or wear.
[a] If the teeth are scored, pitted, or worn, replace the gears. Refer to section 1.27.3.
[b] If the teeth are not scored, pitted, or worn, proceed with inspection.
13. Visually inspect the keyways and tapped holes in the gears and the camshaft pulley for
damage.
[a] If damaged, replace gears and pulley. Refer to section 1.27.4 and refer to section
1.15.3.
14. Inspect the rubber bushed torsion vibration damper for rubber deterioration, slippage of
the outer ring, and alignment of the hub face to the rubber and outer ring.
[a] If rubber has deteriorated, outer ring slippage has occurred, or the hub face does not
align with the rubber and outer ring, replace the vibration damper. Refer to section
1.14.4.
[b] If the rubber has not deteriorated, the outer ring has not slipped, and the hub face
aligns with the rubber and outer ring, reuse the camshaft.
1.26.5 Assembly of Camshaft
See Figure 1-203, and assemble the camshafts as follows:

1. Nut 13. Woodruff Key

2. LH Camshaft Gear 14. RH Front End Bearing
3. Thrust Washers 15. Intermediate Bearing Assemblies
4. LH Rear End Bearing 16. RH Camshaft Gear
5. Lock Washer 17. Lower Intermediate Bearing
6. Bolt 18. Camshaft
7. LH Front Pulley 19. LH Front End Bearing Gasket
8. Front Pulley Lock Washer 20. LH Front End Bearing
9. Front Pulley Nut 21. Oil Seal
10. Water Pump Drive Gear 22. Locking Rings
11. RH Balance Weight Assembly 23. Hold-Down Screw
12. Spacer 24. Upper Intermediate Bearing
Figure 1-203 Description of Camshaft and Bearing Assembly

1. Coat the sides of the camshaft plugs with a light coating of Permatex Hi-Tack, or
equivalent.
NOTICE:
Failure to install plugs correctly may cause engine damage.
2. Install new end plugs in each camshaft. Press the plugs in to a depth of 49.28-52.32
mm (1.940-2.060 in.). See Figure 1-204.
1. Camshaft Plug 2. Camshaft
Figure 1-204 Camshaft Plug Installation
3. Apply grease to the steel face of each thrust washer.

4. Place a thrust washer against each end of the two camshaft rear end bearings. Ensure the
steel face of each thrust washer is next to the bearing.
5. Lubricate the rear camshaft bearing journal, and slide a rear end bearing on each camshaft,
with the bearing bolting flange toward the outer (camshaft gear) end of the shaft.
6. Install the camshaft gear on each shaft. Refer to section 1.27.4.
7. Lubricate the camshaft intermediate bearing journals.
8. Place the two halves of each intermediate bearing on a camshaft journal, and lock the
halves together with two lock rings.
9. Assemble each lock ring with the gap over the upper bearing and the ends an equal
distance above the bearing split line.

1.26.6 Installation of Camshaft and Bearing (Flywheel Housing and

Transmission Removed)
Install the camshaft as follows:
NOTICE:
Use care not to damage the cam lobes when installing the
camshaft.
1. Insert the camshaft front end, with the right-hand helix gear through the opening on the
rear end plate right-bank side, until the first intermediate bearing enters the bore.
2. Continue to work the camshaft and bearings into the cylinder block until the camshaft
gear teeth are about to engage the teeth of the mating gear.
3. Align the timing marks on the mating gears. Refer to section 1.25.
4. Slide the camshaft gear into place.
5. Secure the camshaft rear end bearing to the cylinder block with three lock washers and
bolts.
6. Rotate the camshaft gear to install the bolts through the hole in the gear web.
8. Turn the camshaft intermediate bearings until the holes in the bearings are aligned with
the tapped holes in the top of the cylinder block.
9. Install the lock screws, and tighten them to 20-27 N·m (15-20 lb·ft) torque.
Install the second camshaft as follows:
NOTICE:
camshaft.
1. Insert the camshaft front end, with the right-hand helix gear through the opening on the
rear end plate right-bank side, until the first intermediate bearing enters the bore.
2. Continue to work the camshaft and bearings into the cylinder block until the camshaft
gear teeth are about to engage the teeth of the mating gear.
3. Align the timing marks on the mating gears. Refer to section 1.25.
4. Slide the camshaft gear into place.
5. Secure the camshaft rear end bearing to the cylinder block with three lock washers and
bolts.
6. Rotate the camshaft gear to install the bolts through the hole in the gear web.

8. Turn the camshaft intermediate bearings until the holes in the bearings are aligned with
the tapped holes in the top of the cylinder block.
9. Install the lock screws, and tighten them to 20-27 N·m (15-20 lb·ft) torque.
Complete installation as follows:
1. Attach a new gasket to the camshaft front end bearing that includes the oil seal.
2. Lubricate the bearing journal, and slide the bearing on the left-bank camshaft, with the
bearing bolting flange toward the outer shaft end.
3. Secure the bearing to the cylinder block with three bolts and lock washers. Tighten the
bolts to 47-54 N·m (35-40 lb·ft) torque.
4. Install the right-bank camshaft front end bearing (the one without the oil seal).
5. Secure the bearing to the cylinder block with three bolts and lock washers. Tighten the
6. Lubricate the spacer with the polished outside diameter, and slide it in place on the
left-bank camshaft.
7. Install the other spacer on the right-bank camshaft.
8. Install a Woodruff key in each camshaft.
9. Install the pulley on the front end of the left-bank camshaft and the water pump drive gear
and external weight on the right-bank camshaft.
10. Slip an internal tooth lock washer over the front end of each camshaft.
11. Start the gear and pulley retaining nuts on the camshafts.
12. Wedge a clean rag between the camshaft gears to prevent their turning. Tighten the nut on
each end of both camshafts to 407-441 N·m (300-325 lb·ft) torque.
13. Attach the hub to water pump drive gear with three bolts, plain washers, and lock washer,
if used. Tighten the bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft) torque.
14. Install the camshaft gear nut retainers with bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts to
47-53 N·m (35-39 lb·ft) torque.
15. Check the clearance between the thrust washer and the thrust shoulder of each camshaft.
NOTE:
The specified clearance is 0.08-0.38 mm (0.003-0.015 in.) with new parts, or a maximum
16. Install the step-up gear, if used over the pilot on the right-bank camshaft gear with five 3/8
in.-24 lock bolts. Refer to section 1.26.5.
NOTE:
Ensure the lip on the step-up gear is seated squarely in the pilot diameter ring groove in
the camshaft gear before tightening the bolts.

18. Check the backlash between the mating gears. The specified backlash between new gears
is 0.05-0.20 mm (0.002-0.008 in.), or a maximum of 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) between worn
gears.
19. Install the parts, accessories or assemblies (such as balance weight cover and camshaft
vibration damper) that were removed from the engine.
20. Install the front balance weight cover. Refer to section 1.32.3.
21. Install the water pump. Refer to section 4.2.5.
25. Refill the cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.2.

1.26.7 Installation of Camshaft and Bearing (Flywheel Housing and

Transmission Installed)
Install the camshaft with the flywheel housing and transmission in place as follows:
NOTE:
On 12V and 16V engines, note the part number, listed in Table 1-11, listed in Table 1-12,
and listed in Table 1-13, stamped on the camshaft before installing.
Location of Camshaft in Location of Camshaft in

Part Number on Camshaft
Cylinder Block (RH Engine) Cylinder Block (LH Engine)
5148795 Left-Bank Rear Right-Bank Front
5148746 Right-Bank Rear Left-Bank Front
5148747 Left-Bank Front Right-Bank Rear
5148748 Right-Bank Front Left-Bank Rear
Table 1-11 Camshaft Identification Chart 16V (Tumbled)

Table 1-12 Camshaft Identification Chart 12V (Honed)

Table 1-13 Camshaft Identification Chart 16V (Honed)
1. Install a Woodruff Key in the drive gear end of the camshaft. Insert the end into position
from the engine front end.
NOTICE:
camshaft.
2. Push the camshaft in until it slides into the rear end bearing.
3. Align the key in the shaft with the keyway in the drive gear, and start the shaft into the
gear. Tap the shaft into the gear with a soft (plastic or rawhide) hammer.

4. Remove the camshaft gear puller, spacers, and adaptor plate. Finger-tighten the gear
retaining nut on the shaft.
5. Attach a new gasket to the front end bearing that includes an oil seal, and install the front
end bearing (and spacer or spacer and oil seal) with the bolts and lock washers.
6. Lubricate the spacer with the polished outside diameter, and slide it in place on the
left-bank camshaft. Tighten the bolts to 47-54 N·m (35-40 lb·ft) torque.
7. Install a Woodruff key in the front end of the camshaft.
8. Install either the pulley on the left-bank camshaft or the water pump drive gear and
external weight on the right-bank camshaft.
9. Slip an internal tooth lock washer over the front end of the camshaft, and start the gear
retaining nut on the camshaft. Tighten to 244-258 N·m (180-190 lb·ft).
NOTE:
On certain 6V and 8V left hand rotation engines, install a 9/16 in.-18 lock bolt and
washer in the right-bank camshaft.
10. Block the crankshaft, between the crankshaft throw and the cylinder block to prevent
rotation of the engine.
11. Tighten the restraining nuts at both ends of the camshaft to 407-441 N·m (300-325 lb·ft)
torque.
12. Attach the hub, if used, to the water pump drive gear with three bolts, washers, and lock
washers. Tighten the bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft) torque.
13. Revolve the camshaft intermediate bearings to align the bearing locking holes with the
tapped cylinder block holes. Install the lock screws and tighten them to 20-27 N·m
14. Install the camshaft gear nut retainers with bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts to
47-53 N·m (35-39 lb·ft) torque (retainers not used with lock bolts).
15. Check the clearance between the thrust washer and the thrust shoulder of each camshaft.
NOTE:
The specified clearance is 0.08-0.38 mm (0.003-0.015 in.) with new parts, or a maximum
16. Check the back lash between the mating gears.
NOTE:
The specified backlash between new gears is 0.05-0.20 mm (0.002-0.008 in.), or a
maximum of 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) between worn gears.
17. Install the parts, accessories, and assemblies that were removed.
18. Install the gear retaining nut or lock bolt and washer on both ends of the camshaft.
19. Install the camshaft gear nut retaining plate.

20. Install the front balance weight cover. Refer to section 1.32.3.
21. Install the cylinder head. Refer to section 1.3.5
22. Install the heat exchanger and all attaching parts. Refer to section 4.9.4
23. Install the radiator. Refer to section 4.6.3.
24. Refill the cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.

1.27 CAMSHAFT GEARS
The camshaft gears at the flywheel end of the engine mesh with each other and run at the same
speed as the crankshaft timing gear through an idler gear, depending upon engine rotation.
See Figure 1-205. When viewing the engine from the gear train end, the right-hand camshaft gear
has right-hand helical teeth, and the left-hand camshaft gear has left-hand helical teeth. The idler
gear mates with the right-hand camshaft gear on right-hand rotation engines, and the left-hand
camshaft gear on left-hand rotation engines. Refer to section 1.28. See Figure 1-206.
1. Rear End Plate 3. Blower Drive Gear

2. Camshaft Gears 4. Idler Gear
Figure 1-205 Location of Camshaft Gears Mounted on Engine

1.27 CAMSHAFT GEARS
1. Nut 3. Screw
2. Balance Weight
Figure 1-206 Difference in Camshaft Gear Weights 6V Vs. 8V
Since these gears must be in time with each other, timing marks are stamped on the rim of both
camshaft gears, the idler gear, and the crankshaft gear.
The rear camshaft gears for the 6V and 8V engines are not interchangeable. The 8V gears are
heavier than the 6V gears and, if installed on a 6V engine, will cause vibration in excess of the
specified limits. Because of the difference in the integral balance weights size, the camshaft gears
used on 16V engines are not interchangeable with those used on 6V or 8V engines.

The 6V camshaft gears can be identified by cast markings "6V" and "92" opposite the center hole
and two large round cast web holes through the gears. See Figure 1-207.
Figure 1-207 Identification of Camshaft Gears
The 8V camshaft gears can be identified by cast markings "8V" and "92" opposite web holes
through the gear.

1.27 CAMSHAFT GEARS
1.27.1 Repair or Replacement of Camshaft Gears

See Figure 1-208.
Figure 1-208 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Camshaft Gears
1.27.2 Removal of Camshaft Gear
Remove the camshaft gears as follows:

1. Remove the camshafts from the engine. Refer to section 1.26.2.

2. Place one of the camshaft and gear assemblies in an arbor press. See Figure 1-209.
1. Camshaft Gear Assembly 3. Arbor Press

2. Brass Rod
Figure 1-209 Removing Camshaft Gear
3. Place a wooden block under the lower end of the camshaft to protect the threads.
4. Place a short, one-inch diameter brass rod on the end of the camshaft, and press the shaft
out of the gear.
NOTE:
If an arbor press is not available, tool J 1902-B may be used to remove the gear from
the camshaft.
5. Remove the Woodruff key from the camshaft, if necessary.

6. Place the second camshaft and gear assembly in the arbor press.
1.27.2.1 Cleaning of Camshaft Gear
Prior to inspection, clean the gears as follows:

1.27 CAMSHAFT GEARS
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Clean the gears with fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
2. Dry the gears with compressed air.
1.27.2.2 Inspection of Camshaft Gear
Inspect the camshaft gear as follows:

1. Visually inspect the gear teeth for scoring, pitting, or wear.
[a] If excessively scored, pitted, or worn, replace the gears.
[b] If not scored, pitted, or worn, reuse the camshaft gear.
NOTE:
The other gears in the gear train should also be inspected at this time.
1.27.3 Assembly of Camshaft Gears
If previously removed, install the camshaft rear end bearing and thrust washers on the camshaft
as follows:
1. Apply grease to the steel face of each thrust washer, and place one washer at each end of
the bearing. Ensure the steel face of each washer is next to the bearing.
2. Lubricate the bearing journal, and slide the bearing and thrust washers on the camshaft,
with the bolting flange of the bearing toward the outer (gear) end of the shaft.
1.27.4 Installation of Camshaft Gears
Install the camshaft gear as follows:

1. Install a Woodruff key in the camshaft.

NOTICE:
Before installing a rear camshaft gear, observe the cast web
holes identification. In addition, look for the "6V" or "8V" cast
identification marks for proper gear installation.
2. Start the gear over the end of the camshaft, with the key in the shaft aligned with the
keyway in the gear.
NOTE:
DDEC with advanced timing, install keys so the arrows point to each other.
3. With the camshaft supported in an arbor press, place a sleeve on top of the gear.
4. Press the gear tightly against the shaft shoulder. See Figure 1-210.
NOTE:
If an arbor press is not available, use tool J 1903 to install the gear on the camshaft.
1. Camshaft 4. Sleeve
2. Camshaft Gear 5. Arbor Press
3. Woodruff Key
Figure 1-210 Installing Camshaft Gear on Camshaft
5. Thread the camshaft gear retaining nut on the camshaft.

6. Tighten the nut after the camshaft is installed on the engine.
7. Repeat step 1 through step 6 to install the second camshaft.

1.27 CAMSHAFT GEARS
8. Install the camshaft and gear assemblies in the engine. Refer to section 1.26.6.
9. Tighten the camshaft gear retaining nuts after installed on engine.
NOTE:
The camshaft gears used on 12V and 16V engines are not interchangeable with those
used on 6V or 8V engines due to the difference in the size of the integral balance weights.

1.28 IDLER GEAR AND BEARING ASSEMBLY
The idler gear is mounted on a double-row, tapered roller bearing, that is supported on a stationary
hub. See Figure 1-211. A bolt, that passes through the hub and rear end plate, secures the hub
directly to the cylinder block. A dowel in the hub positions the hub and prevents it from rotating.
1. Oil Passage 7. Bolt Hub-to-Block

2. Cylinder Block 8. Hub
3. Dowel (Hollow) 9. Ring Spacer
4. End Plate 10. Bearings
5. Retainer Bearing 11. Idler Gear
6. Special Washer
Figure 1-211 Idler Gear Mounting

The idler gear is pressure lubricated by oil from the cylinder block rear cross oil gallery. Oil enters
an opening between the cylinder block and the idler gear hub and circulates around the idler gear
hub bolt, which has a smaller outside diameter than the inside diameter of the gear hub bolt hole.
The oil is forced through a drilled passage in the gear hub to the roller bearing.
The idler gear bearing includes two cups, two cones and an outer and inner spacer ring.
The idler gear bearing cones are pressed onto the gear hub and do not rotate. Spacer rings separate
the bearing cups and cones. The bearing cups are lightly press fit in the idler gear and are held
against a flanged lip inside with idler gear on one side. A bearing retainer, secured with six lock
bolts, holds the bearing cups on the other side.
A left-hand helix gear is provided for right-hand rotation engines, and a right-hand helix gear is
provided for left-hand rotation engines. Refer to section 1.28.
An idler gear hole spacer (dummy hub) is used on the side opposite the idler gear. See Figure
1-212.

1. Dummy Hub 4. Idler Gear Assembly

2. Camshaft Gears 5. Crankshaft Drive Gear
3. Blower Drive Gear
Figure 1-212 Location of Idler Gear and Dummy Hub
NOTE:
On some engines, the idler gear hole spacer is integrally cast in the flywheel housing, on
the side opposite the idler gear. See Figure 1-213.

1. Dowel 2. Integral Dowel
Figure 1-213 Idler Gear Spacer

To minimize oil leakage into the flywheel housing, the current idler gear spacer (dummy hub) is
used in engines not equipped with an integral idler gear spacer type flywheel housing. See Figure
1-214.

2. Camshaft 5. Crankshaft Drive Gear
3. Blower Drive

The former and current spacers are interchangeable. Only the new spacer will be serviced. The
new flanged hex head bolts with a self locking sealing patch should be used with the new spacer.
They can be used with the former spacer or at the idler gear position. Do not use a flat washer
under the new flanged head bolts.
NOTE:
The service idler gear assemblies do not include the current "seal patch" bolts. The
flat washer has been deleted. At the time of rebuild the new bolts should be used to
minimize oil leakage into the flywheel housing.
Whenever the sealant patch bolts are removed, they should be replaced with new sealant patch
bolts at the idler gear spacer and idler gear positions.

1.28.1 Repair or Replacement of Idler Gear and Bearing Assembly

See Figure 1-215.
Figure 1-215 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Idler Gear and Bearing
Assembly
1.28.2 Removal of Idler Gear and Bearing Assembly
Remove the idler gear, hub and bearing assembly as follows:

NOTE:
Before removing the idler gear, check the idler gear, hub and bearing assembly for any
perceptible wobble or shake when pressure is applied. Firmly grasp the gear rim with
both hands, and rock the gear in relation to the bearing. The bearing must be replaced

if the gear wobbles or shakes. If the gear assembly is satisfactory, check the preload
before installation.
2. Remove the idler gear hub to cylinder block bolt and special washer. Withdraw the
assembly from the cylinder block rear end plate.
3. If necessary, remove the idler gear hole spacer (dummy hub).
1.28.3 Disassembly of Idler Gear and Bearing Assembly
Disassemble the idler gear, hub, and bearing assembly as follows:
NOTICE:
Rotate the bearing to avoid the possibility of damaging it or
brinelling the bearing cones.

1. Remove the six bolts and three bolt locks, if used, that secure the bearing retainer to the
idler gear. Remove the bearing retainer. See Figure 1-216.
NOTE:
Matchmark the parts during disassembly to ensure part reassembly in their original
positions.
1. Bearing Retainer 6. Bearing Cup (Outer)

2. Lock Bolt 7. Spacer Ring (Outer)
3. Idler Gear Hub 8. Bearing Cup (Inner)
4. Bearing Cone (Outer) 9. Bearing Cone (Inner)
5. Spacer Ring (Inner) 10. Idler Gear
Figure 1-216 Disassembly of Idler Gear and Related Parts

USED ENGINE OIL

EYE INJURY
2. Clean the idler gear assembly with fuel oil, and dry it with compressed air.
3. Place the idler gear assembly in an arbor press, with the inner bearing cone supported on
steel blocks. See Figure 1-217.
1. Idler Gear 3. Arbor Press

2. Hub 4. Support Blocks
Figure 1-217 Pressing Hub Out of Idler Gear Bearing
4. While rotating the idler gear assembly, press the hub out of the bearing.

5. Remove the gear assembly from the arbor press, and remove the bearing cones and spacer
rings.
NOTE:
Unless the bearing assembly is to be replaced, the inner and outer bearing cups should
not be removed from the idler gear. If the cups are loose in the gear bore or the bore is
worn, the bearing assembly and gear should be replaced.
6. Tap the bearing cups from the idler gear. Use a brass drift alternately at the four notches
provided around the gear shoulder.
1.28.3.1 Cleaning of Idler Gear and Bearing Assembly
Prior to inspection, clean the idler gear, hub, and bearing components as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Wash the idler gear, hub, and bearing components thoroughly in clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
2. Dry the parts with compressed air.
1.28.3.2 Inspection of Idler Gear and Bearing Assembly
Inspect the idler gear and bearing assembly as follows:

1. Visually inspect the idler gear hub for chips or foreign material in the holes.
[a] If chipped, replace the idler gear hub.
[b] If foreign material is in the holes, clean the idler gear hub.
[c] If not chipped and no foreign material is in the holes, continue inspection.
2. Visually inspect the bearing for wear, pitting, scoring, or flat spots on the rollers or cones.
[a] Replace the bearing if it is defective.
[b] If none of the above conditions exist, continue inspection.

3. Visually inspect the gear teeth for scoring, pitting and wear.
[a] If severely damaged or worn, replace the gear.
NOTE:
If a damaged gear is detected, refer to step 1 and repeat inspection procedure for the
other gears in the gear train.
[b] If not scored, pitted, or worn, reuse the idler gear and bearing assembly.

1.28.4 Assembly of Idler Gear and Bearing Assembly
Assemble the idler gear, hub, and bearing as follows. See Figure 1-218.
1. Bearing Retainer 6. Bearing Cup (Outer)

2. Lock Bolt 7. Spacer Ring (Outer)
3. Idler Gear Hub 8. Bearing Cup (Inner)
4. Bearing Cone (Outer) 9. Bearing Cone (Inner)
5. Spacer Ring (Inner) 10. Idler Gear
Figure 1-218 Idler Gear and Related Parts

1. Assemble the bearing components in their original positions. Refer to the identification
marks made during disassembly.
NOTE:
The idler gear bearing is a matched assembly. Do not mix the components with another
bearing assembly.
2. Support the idler gear, shoulder down, on the bed of an arbor press.
3. Start one of the bearing cups, numbered side up, squarely into the gear bore.
4. Use the preload test plate between the ram of the press and the bearing cup to press the
bearing cup against the gear shoulder.
5. Lay the outer spacer ring on the bearing cup face.
6. Start the other bearing cup, numbered side down, squarely into the gear bore.
7. Use the preload test plate between the press ram and the bearing cup to press the cup
tightly against the spacer ring.
8. Use the preload test plate (with the large center hole) between the press ram and the
bearing to press the inner bearing cone, numbered side up, on the idler gear hub, flush
with the inner hub mounting face.
9. Install the inner spacer ring on the idler gear hub so that the oil hole in the hub is
180 degrees from the gap in the inner spacer ring.
10. Position the gear with both cups over the hub and the inner bearing cone.

11. Press the outer idler gear bearing cone over the hub while rotating the gear to seat the
rollers between the cones.
NOTE:
The bearing cones must be supported so as not to load the bearing rollers during this
operation. See Figure 1-219.
1. Parallel Bar 3. Arbor Press Ram

2. Hub Gear 4. Bearing Assembly
Figure 1-219 Pressing Hub into Idler Gear Bearing
1.28.4.1 Cleaning Idler Gear and Bearing Pre-Load
Prior to checking the idler gear and bearing preload clean components as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Clean and lubricate the idler gear bearing with light engine oil.
2. Idler gear assemblies that include new bearings should be "worked in" as follows:
[a] Grasp the gear firmly in hand.
[b] Rotate the gear back and forth several times.

3. Check the bearing to ensure that the gear may be rotated on its bearing without exceeding
the maximum torque specifications. It should not permit the hub to tilt, wobble, or shake
the gear.
1.28.4.2 Testing of Idler Gear and Bearing Assembly Pre-Load
The rollers in the bearing are loaded between the bearing cup and the bearing cones in accordance
with design requirements to provide a rigid idler gear and bearing assembly. As the bearing cones
are moved toward each other in a tapered roller bearing assembly, the rollers will be tightly held
between the cones and the cup. A selected spacer ring between the bearing cones applies a slight
preload to provide gear and bearing assembly rigidity when it is mounted on its hub. The effort
required at the outer diameter of the gear to turn the bearing cup in relation to the bearing cones is
the preload measure in terms of "pounds pull."
Any time an idler gear assembly has been removed from an engine for servicing or inspection, the
preload should be measured.
If the mating crankshaft and camshaft gears are not already mounted on the engine, mount the
idler gear on the engine to check the torque required to rotate the idler gear. Use a preload test
plate against the hub and cone as follows:
1. Mount the idler gear assembly on the engine.
2. Install the center bolt and washer through the gear hub, and thread it into the cylinder block.
3. Tighten the bolt to 108-122 N·m (80-90 lb·ft) torque.

4. Place the steel plate against the hub and bearing. See Figure 1-220.
Figure 1-220 Plates for Bearing Test Fixture and Bearing Cone Installation
5. Insert three 3/8 in.-16 bolts through the plate, and thread them into the hub.
7. Tie one end of a piece of lintless 1/8 in. cord around a 1/8 in. round piece of wood
or soft metal stock.
8. Place the wood between two of the gear teeth, and wrap the cord around the periphery
of the gear several times.

9. Attach the other end of the cord to a spring scale J 8129. See Figure 1-221.
1. Idler Gear 2. Pre-Load Test Plate
Figure 1-221 Checking Idler Gear Pre-Load
10. Maintain a straight steady pull on the cord and scale, 90 degrees to the axis of the hub.
NOTE:
Observe the pull, in pounds and ounces, required to start rotating the gear.
11. Make several checks to obtain an average reading.

12. If the pull is within 1/2 lb. minimum to 4 lbs. maximum, and does not fluctuate more than
2 lbs. 11 oz., the idler gear and bearing assembly are satisfactory for use.If the crankshaft

and camshaft gears are mounted on the engine, make a suitable fixture that can be held in a
vise as follows. See Figure 1-222.
1. Idler Gear 5. Clamp Plates

2. Idler Gear Hub 6. Bearing Assembly
3. Nut 7. Flywheel Housing-to-Hub Bolts
4. Bolt 8. Clamp Plate
Figure 1-222 Fixture For Test Bearing Pre-Load
13. Use three plates, a 1/2 in.-13 x 2-3/4 in. bolt, and a plain washer with a 1/2 in.-13 nut
and plain washer for mounting.
NOTE:
One of the plates is used to take the place of the flywheel housing, and the other two
plates take the place of the cylinder block.

14. Tighten the nut to 108-122 N·m (80-90 lb·ft) torque, and tighten the three plate-to-hub
attaching bolts to 34-54 N·m (25-40 lb·ft) torque to simulate "engine-mounted"
conditions.Check the preload on the bearings, as follows:
15. Attach two upper plates to the idler gear hub with the 1/2 in.-13 bolt, washers, and nut.
16. Tighten the bolt to 107-120 N·m (80-90 lb·ft) torque.
17. Attach the third plate to the idler gear hub with three 3/8 in.-16 bolts.
19. Clamp the idler gear assembly and fixture in a vise. See Figure 1-223.
1. Idler Gear 2. Pre-Load Test Plate
Figure 1-223 Checking Idler Gear Pre-Load
20. Attach a cord to the idler gear and spring scale.

21. Tie one end of a piece of lintless 1/8 in. cord around a 1/8 in. round piece of wood
or soft metal stock.
22. Place the wood between two of the gear teeth, and wrap the cord around the periphery
of the gear several times.
23. Attach the other end of the cord to a spring scale J 8129.
24. Maintain a straight steady pull on the cord and scale, 90 degrees to the axis of the hub.
NOTE:
Observe the pull, in pounds and ounces, required to start rotating the gear.

25. Make several checks to obtain an average reading.

26. If the pull is within 1/2 lb. minimum to 4 lbs. maximum, and does not fluctuate more than
2 lbs. 11 oz., the idler gear and bearing assembly are satisfactory for use.
27. If the scale reading is within the 1/2 to 4 lbs. specified, but fluctuates more than 2 lbs. 11
ounces, the idler gear and bearing assembly must NOT be installed on the engine.
NOTE:
Cones not concentric to each other, damaged cones or rollers, or dirt or foreign material
within the bearings can cause fluctuations in scale readings. The bearing should be
inspected for the fluctuation cause. Repair or replace the bearing. A scale reading that
exceeds the specified maximum indicates bearing roller bind, or improperly installed
rollers. When the scale reading is less than the specified minimum, the bearing is more
likely worn and should be replaced.
After the preload check is completed, proceed as follows:
NOTICE:
Do not use standard bolts, and do not use the former bolt locks.
28. Remove the steel plates, and install the bearing retainer.
29. Attach the bearing retainer to the idler gear with six new lock bolts. Because the lock
bolts are coated with a locking compound, always use new lock bolts when assembling
the idler gear.
1.28.5 Installation of Idler Gear and Bearing Assembly
Install the idler gear, hub, and bearing assembly as follows:

1. Align the crankshaft gear and camshaft gear timing marks with those on the idler gear.
2. With these marks aligned, mesh the idler gear with the crankshaft gear and camshaft
gear, and simultaneously rotate the gear hub so the dowel in the hub registers with the
hole in the end plate.
3. Roll the idler gear into position, and align the hollow dowel with the oil hole in the end
plate.
4. Tap the hub until it seats against the end plate.
5. After ensuring hub is tight against the end plate, secure the idler gear assembly with the
1/2 in.-13 bolt and special washer. Tighten the bolt to 108-122 N·m (80-90 lb·ft) torque.

6. If previously removed, install the idler gear hole spacer (dummy hub). See Figure 1-224.

2. Camshaft Gears 5. Crankshaft Drive Gear
3. Blower Drive Gear
7. Secure the spacer to the cylinder block end plate and cylinder block with a 1/2 in.-13 bolt
and special washer. Tighten the bolt to 108-122 N·m (80-90 lb·ft) torque.

USED ENGINE OIL

8. Lubricate the idler gear bearing and gear teeth liberally with clean engine oil.
9. Check the backlash between the mating gears. The backlash must be 0.05-0.20 mm
(0.002-0.008 in.) between new gears and must not exceed 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) between
worn gears.

1.29 CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEAR
The crankshaft timing gear is bolted to the flange at the rear end of the crankshaft and drives the
camshaft gears and the blower drive gear through an idler gear. See Figure 1-225. On 12V and
16V engines, two crankshaft timing gears are on the crankshaft. The rear crankshaft gear is
attached to the flange at the rear of the crankshaft. The lubricating oil pump drive gear is attached
to the rear crankshaft gear. The front crankshaft gear assembly (gear and bushing) is attached to a
damper assembly mounted on the flange at the front of the crankshaft.
1. Crankshaft Timing Gear 2. Idler Gear
Figure 1-225 Crankshaft Timing Gear Mounting (RH Rotation Engine Shown)
Since the two camshafts must be in time with the crankshaft, timing marks are located on the rim
of the idler gear with corresponding timing marks stamped on the crankshaft gear and camshaft
gears. Refer to section 1.29.7.

Current crankshafts and crankshaft timing gears replaced the former crankshafts and timing gears
effective with engine serial numbers 6VF0123940, 8VF098671, 12VF002032, and 16VF006468.
The current timing gears have a hole drilled in their bolt flanges. This hole provides clearance
for a new 1/4 in. x 3/4 in. roll pin installed in the timing gear end of the current crankshafts.
Refer to section 1.7. The pin permits only right-hand crankshaft timing gears to be installed
on right-hand engine crankshafts, and only left-hand timing gears to be installed on left-hand
engine crankshafts.
The current crankshafts, with their new respective crankshaft timing gears, are completely
interchangeable with the former crankshafts and timing gears for the same engine rotation. Only
the current parts are serviced.
The roll pins can be removed from the new crankshafts to allow former crankshaft timing gear
reuse. When reusing the former gears without the clearance hole, the proper rotation gear must be
matched with the proper rotation crankshaft.

1.29.1 Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft Timing Gear

See Figure 1-226.
Figure 1-226 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Crankshaft Timing Gear
1.29.2 Removal of Crankshaft Timing Gear (6V and 8V)
Remove the crankshaft timing gear as follows:

NOTE:
The crankshaft gear is a press fit on the crankshaft.

2. Peen the outside diameter of the crankshaft rear oil sleeve until it can slip off crankshaft.

2. Idler Gear
NOTE:
Before removing the crankshaft gear, align the timing marks of the gear train. Observe
their location, so the gear can be installed in its original position. See Figure 1-227.
3. Remove the six bolts that secure the gear to the crankshaft.
4. Place a steel plate across the cavity in the end of the crankshaft to provide a base for
the puller screw.
5. Remove the gear with a gear puller.

1.29.3 Removal of Crankshaft Timing Gear (12V and 16V)
Remove the crankshaft timing gear as follows:

NOTE:
The crankshaft gear is a press fit on the crankshaft.
2. Peen the outside diameter of the crankshaft rear oil sleeve until it can slip off crankshaft.
NOTE:
Before removing the crankshaft gear, align the timing marks of the gear train. Observe
their location, so the gear can be installed in its original position. See Figure 1-228.


2. Idler Gear

3. Remove the six bolts that secure the rear timing gear to the crankshaft. See Figure 1-229.
1. Left Bank Camshaft Gear 5. Idler Gear

2. Blower Drive Gear 6. Crankshaft Timing Gear
3. Rear End Plate 7. Bolt (6)
4. Right Bank Camshaft Gear
Figure 1-229 Removal of Crankshaft Timing Gear
4. Remove the rear timing gear and oil pump drive gear as an assembly.
5. Place a steel plate across the cavity in the end of the crankshaft to provide a base for
the puller screw.
6. Remove the gear with a gear puller.
7. Remove the six attaching bolts to separate the crankshaft and oil pump drive gears.
8. Remove the six bolts that secure the front crankshaft gear to the damper assembly.

9. Withdraw the gear from the crankshaft.
1.29.4 Disassembly of Crankshaft Timing Gear
Disassemble the damper as follows:

1. Remove the bolts from the inner plate, spacers and the outer plate.
2. Remove the spacers from between the inner and outer plate.
3. Remove the springs.
1.29.4.1 Cleaning of Crankshaft Timing Gear
Prior to inspection, clean the crankshaft timing gear as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Clean the gear with fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
2. Dry gear with compressed air.
1.29.5 Inspection of Crankshaft Timing Gear
Inspect the crankshaft timing gear as follows:

1. Visually inspect the gear teeth and bushing for scoring, pitting or wear.
[a] If severely scored, pitted, or worn, replace the gear or bushing. Refer to section
1.29.6.
NOTE:
If the gear is damaged, also check the other gears in the gear train.
[b] If not scored, pitted, or worn, continue inspection.

2. Inspect the clearance between the bushing and the gear.
NOTE:
The clearance between the front crankshaft gear and the bushing is 0.03-0.08 mm
(0.001-0.003 in.) with new parts and should not exceed 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) with used
parts.
[a] If the clearance is not within specified limits, install a new gear and bushing.
[b] If the clearance is within the specified limits, reuse the gear and bushing.
1.29.6 Assembly of Crankshaft Timing Gear
Assemble the damper as follows:

1. Lay the inner plate, flat side up, on a bench.
2. Place a spring in each slot of the damper.

3. Place the hub on the inner plate with the notches in the hub and the inner plate. See Figure
1-230.
1. Inner Plate 5. Nut

2. Spring 6. Spacer
3. Hub 7. Bolt
4. Outer Plate
Figure 1-230 Proper Location of Notches and Assembly of Damper
4. Align the spring slots in the outer plate with the springs in the hub. Lay the outer plate
on the hub.
5. Slide the spacers between the inner and outer plates. Align the spacers with the bolt
holes in the plates.
6. Push the bolts through the inner plate, spacers, and the outer plate.
7. Install the nuts on the bolts. Torque the nuts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft).

1.29.7 Installation of Crankshaft Timing Gear
Install the crankshaft timing gear as follows:

1. Align the bolt holes in the gear with the tapped holes in the crankshaft.
NOTE:
Since one bolt hole is offset, the gear can be attached in only one position.
2. Align the proper timing mark on the crankshaft gear with the corresponding mark on the
idler gear. Refer to section 1.29.7.
3. Start the six 3/8 in.-24 bolts through the gear and into the crankshaft.
4. Draw the gear tight against the shoulder on the crankshaft. Tighten the bolts to 47-53 N·m
5. Check the backlash with the mating gear. The backlash should be 0.05-0.20 mm
(0.002-0.008 in.) with new gears or 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) maximum with used gears.
6. Install a new crankshaft rear oil seal sleeve, if required. Refer to section 1.8.7.
1.29.8 Installation of the Crankshaft Timing Gear (12V and 16V)
Install the crankshaft timing gear on a 12V and 16V engine as follows:
1. Refer to section 1.29.7. Lay the rear crankshaft timing gear (timing mark side down) on
a bench.
2. Place the oil pump drive gear (narrow side down) on the crankshaft gear.
3. Install the oil pump drive gear bolts. Tighten the bolts to 20-26 N·m (15-19 lb·ft) torque.
4. Slide the gear, oil pump gear first, on the rear end of the crankshaft. Align the bolt holes in
the crankshaft gear with the tapped holes in the crankshaft.
5. Install and tighten the crankshaft gear bolts to 47-53 N·m (35-39 lb·ft) torque.
6. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft gear with the corresponding mark on the idler gear.
7. If removed, position the damper on the front end of the crankshaft. Install and tighten the
damper-to-crankshaft bolts to 47-53 N·m (35-39 lb·ft) torque.
8. Align the timing marks, and attach the front crankshaft gear to the damper with six bolts.
Tighten the bolts to 20-26 N·m (15-19 lb·ft) torque.
9. Check the gear backlash.
NOTE:
The backlash should be 0.05-0.20 mm (0.002-0.008 in.) with new gears, or 0.25 mm
(0.010 in.) maximum with used gears.
10. Install a new crankshaft oil seal sleeve, if used, on the crankshaft. Refer to section 1.8.5.

1.30 BLOWER DRIVE GEAR AND SUPPORT ASSEMBLY
A step-up gear, with 86 teeth, attached to the right cylinder bank camshaft gear drive the blower
gear on non-turbocharged engines. See Figure 1-231. For turbocharged engines, the right cylinder
bank camshaft gear drives the blower drive gear directly. See Figure 1-232.
1. LH Camshaft Drive Gear 4. RH Camshaft Gear

2. Blower Drive Assembly 5. Step-Up Gear
3. Rear End Plate
Figure 1-231 Blower Drive Gear Mounting (Non Turbocharged Engines)

1. LH Camshaft Gear 3. Rear End Plate

2. Blower Drive Gear 4. RH Camshaft Gear
Figure 1-232 Blower Drive Gear Mounting (Turbocharged Engines)
Two blower drive gear and support assemblies are used on the 12V and 16V engines. Both the
front and the rear blower drive gears on the non-turbocharged 12V and 16V engines are the same
and are driven the same. On the 12V and 16V turbocharged engines, however, the camshaft
gear directly drives each blower drive gear. The blower drive gear and support assembly on
turbocharged and non-turbocharged engines are not interchangeable.
Since the camshaft gear runs at engine speed, the blower drive gear, that has about half as many
teeth as the camshaft gear, runs at approximately twice the engine speed.
The blower to engine speed ratio for the 6V, 8V and 16V non-turbocharged and high output
turbocharged engines is 2.60:1 (blower drive gear has 33 teeth). The blower to engine speed ratio
for other turbocharged engines is 2.05:1 (blower drive gear has 38 teeth) or 1.95:1 (blower drive
gear has 40 teeth) depending on the requirement.

The blower drive gear is mounted on a support which that is attached to the cylinder block rear
end plate. The blower drive gear bearings are pressure lubricated through an external line from
the blower rear end plate to the blower drive support.
New blower drive shaft flex plates and type B hex lock bolts are now being used on engines that
incorporate the large bearing blower. See Figure 1-233 and see Figure 1-234. The tumbled flex
plates will continue to be used, as required. However, the thin hub spacers formerly used to
protect the tumbled flex plates are no longer required and will not be serviced. The change to the
new blower drive shaft flex plate attaching bolts become effective with engine serial numbers
6VF-092516, 8VF-077675, 12VF-001216 and 16VF-005875. Only the new flex plates and bolts
should be used to service engines with large bearing blowers.
1. Lock Bolts 3. Plate

2. Gear Assembly
Figure 1-233 Rear Hub Assembly (Non Turbocharged Engines)

1. Rear Hub Support Assembly 4. Lock Bolts

2. Blower Drive Gear Assembly 5. Hub
3. Plate
Figure 1-234 Rear Hub Assembly (Turbocharged Engines)
Some former engines are equipped with thin hub spacers. They are not readily accessible and
some mechanics may not be aware that they are behind the flex plate. When working on the
blower hub assemblies, remove the flex plate attaching bolts carefully to avoid dropping the thin
hub spacers into the gear train. If spacers are inadvertently dropped into the gear train, removal of
the engine flywheel housing and/or oil pan may be required to retrieve them.
1.30.1 Repair or Replacement of Blower Drive Gear and Support

Assembly

See Figure 1-235.

Figure 1-235 Flowchart for Repair of Replacement of Blower Drive Gear and
Support Assembly
1.30.2 Removal of Blower Drive Gear and Support Assembly
Remove the blower drive gear and support assembly as follows:


NOTE:
It is not necessary to remove the flywheel housing when removing the blower drive
gear. However, an inspection of the gear train is advisable when any one of the gears
require service.
3. Remove the blower(s) and blower drive support lubrication tube. Refer to section 6.5.2.
4. Remove the two blower drive support-to-cylinder block rear end plate attaching bolts
with copper washers. See Figure 1-236.
1. Rear End Plate 4. Bolt

2. Gasket 5. Copper Washer
3. Blower Drive Gear Assembly
Figure 1-236 Removal of Blower Drive Gear Assembly

5. Tap the blower drive support to loosen it. Carefully withdraw the support from the
cylinder block rear end plate so the blower drive gear teeth will not be damaged.
6. Discard the gasket.
1.30.3 Disassembly of Blower Drive Gear and Support Assembly
See Figure 1-237. On non-turbocharged engines, disassemble the blower drive gear and support
assembly as follows:
NOTE:
At time of rebuild, or whenever the flex plates are removed, current type B lock bolts
must be used. Do not attempt to reuse patch bolts.

1. Driveshaft Hub 6. Drive Gear

2. Bolt 7. Thrust Washer
3. Flex Plates 8. Thrust Collar
4. Bolt 9. Gasket
5. Bearing 10. Blower Drive Support
Figure 1-237 Rear Hub, Blower Drive Gear, Support Assembly (Non
Turbocharged Engines)
1. Secure the blower drive gear and support assembly in the soft jaws of a bench vise.
2. Remove the three lock bolts securing the drive gear hub and flex plates to the blower
drive gear.
3. Remove the three lock bolts securing the flex plates to the drive gear hub, if required.
4. Remove three lock screws from the drive support, and lift the thrust collar from the drive
gear flange.

5. Remove the blower drive gear and the thrust washer from the drive gear support hub.
See Figure 1-238. On turbocharged engines, disassemble the blower drive gear and support
assembly as follows:
1. Blower Drive Support 7. Flex Plates

2. Gasket 8. Lock Washers
3. Thrust Bearings 9. Bolt
4. Thrust Washer 10. Snap Ring
5. Lock Washer 11. Blower Drive Shaft Hub
6. Nut 12. Blower Drive Gear
Figure 1-238 Rear Hub, Blower Drive Gear, Support Assembly (Turbocharged
Engines)
1. Secure the blower drive gear and support assembly in a soft jawed bench vise.
2. Remove the three bolts securing the drive gear hub and flex plates to the blower drive gear.

3. Remove the flex plates and blower drive gear hub as an assembly from the gear. If
necessary, the flex plates may be removed from the hub.
4. Straighten the lugs on the lock washer, and remove the blower drive gear support nut.
5. Withdraw the lock washer, blower drive gear thrust washer, thrust bearings, and gear
from the support.
1.30.3.1 Cleaning of Blower Drive Gear and Support Assembly
Prior to inspection, clean the blower drive gear and support assembly as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Clean the parts with fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
1.30.3.2 Inspection of Blower Drive Gear and Support Assembly
Inspect the blower drive gear and support assembly as follows:

1. Visually inspect the oil passage in the blower drive gear support for obstructions.
[a] If plugged, clean passages out.
[b] If not plugged, continue inspection.
2. Visually inspect the blower drive gear bushing inside diameter and the support hub outside
diameter for wear or excessive heat damage.
[a] If worn or heat damaged, replace the drive gear and support hub. Refer to section
1.30.5.
3. Check the clearance between the bushing and the support hub. Refer to section
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, specifications chart for blower drive gear.

[a] If the clearance exceeds the specified limits, replace the bushing and support hub.
[b] If the clearance does not exceed the specified limits, continue inspection.
NOTE:
If new bearings are installed, the outer end of each bearing must be pressed in flush
to 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) below the gear face. The bearings must be reamed to size
41.300-41.313 mm (1.6260-1.6265 in.) inside diameter and to a finish of 20 micro-inches
after installation. The bearing bores must also be square with the machined faces of the
bolt bosses on the gear within 0.08 mm (0.003 in.) total indicator reading and concentric
with the pitch diameter of the gear teeth. The thrust washer retaining pin must extend
approximately 2.03 mm (0.080 in.) above the threaded end of the hub.
4. Visually inspect the blower drive support thrust washer and thrust bearing for scoring
and wear.
[a] If excessively worn or scored, replace washers and bearings.
NOTE:
For new blower drive support thrust washers and thrust bearings thickness,
refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
[b] If not excessively worn or scored, continue inspection.

5. Visually inspect the gear teeth for scoring, pitting, burring, and wear.
[a] If excessively scored, pitted, burred, or worn, replace gear. Refer to section 1.30.5.
[b] If not excessively scored, pitted, burred, or worn, continue inspection.
6. Visually inspect the flex plates for cracks or other damage.
[a] If cracked or damaged, replace the plates. Refer to section 1.30.4.
[b] If not cracked or damaged, continue inspection.
7. Visually inspect the serrations in the blower drive shaft hub for wear or other damage.
NOTE:
To reduce spline wear, the blower drive shafts, blower drive couplings and accessory
drive hubs have been replaced by specially heat treated parts, effective with engines
6VF-21492 and 8VF-19187. See Figure 1-239. DDC recommends that all of the subject

components be replaced (including the flex plates) when any one or more of the parts
require replacement on engines prior to the above serial numbers.
1. Blower Drive Gear 3. Blower Drive Shaft Hub (Turbocharged Engine)

2. Blower Drive Shaft Hub (Turbocharged Engine) 4. Blower Drive Shaft Support
Figure 1-239 Inspection of Blower Drive Shaft Hub, Support and Drive Gear
[a] If worn or damaged, replace the hub. Refer to section 1.30.4.

[b] If not worn or damaged, reuse the blower drive gear and support assembly.
1.30.4 Assembly of Blower Drive Gear and Support Assembly
On non-turbocharged engines, assemble the blower drive gear and support assembly as follows:
1. With the blower drive support clamped in a soft jawed bench vise, align the tangs on the
blower drive gear thrust washer with the holes in the support.
NOTE:
The current thrust washer with two inner diameter keyways and the current locking
washer with a longer tang must be used together for optimum nut locking performance.
2. Lubricate the drive support hub, the bushing in the drive gear, and the thrust washer
face, and thrust collar with clean engine oil.

USED ENGINE OIL

3. Slide the drive gear on the support hub with the flange end of the gear against the thrust
washer.
4. Install the thrust collar over the flange end of the drive gear and against the drive support.
5. Secure the collar with three 5/16 in.-18 x 1-1/4 in. socket head lock bolts. Tighten the
NOTE:
The thrust collar holds the drive gear on the support hub.
6. If the two flex plates were removed or replaced, secure them to the drive gear hub
with the three special 3/8 in.-24 x 0.345 in. lock bolts. Tighten the bolts to 54-61 N·m
7. Secure the drive hub and flex plate assembly to the drive gear with three special
3/8 in.-24 x 0.925 in. lock bolts. Tighten the bolts to 47-53 N·m (35-39 lb·ft) torque.

8. Check the clearance between the blower drive gear support thrust washer and the blower
drive gear thrust bearing. See Figure 1-240.
NOTE:
The clearance should be 0.08-0.43 mm (0.003-0.017 in.) with new parts and should not
exceed 0.48 mm (0.019 in.) between worn parts.
1. Thrust Bearing 3. Blower Drive Gear Assembly

2. Thrust Washer
Figure 1-240 Checking Clearance Between Drive Gear Support Thrust Washer
and Thrust Bearing
On turbocharged engines, install the blower drive gear and support assembly as follows:
1. With the blower drive support clamped in a soft jawed bench vise, align the tangs on the
blower drive thrust bearings with the support holes.
NOTE:
The new thrust washer with two inner diameter keyways and the new locking washer
with a longer tang must be used together for optimum nut locking performance.

USED ENGINE OIL

2. Lubricate the support hub, the gear bushing, both thrust bearings, and the blower drive
gear support thrust washer with clean engine oil.
3. Slide the gear, flat side down, on the hub.
4. Install the second thrust bearing, tangs up, on the support.
5. Align the blower drive support thrust washer slots with the bearing tangs.
6. Secure the gear on the support with a lock washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 68-81 N·m
(50-60 lb·ft) torque, and bend the lock washer lugs against the nut flats to secure the nut.
7. Check the clearance between the blower drive gear support thrust washer and the blower
drive gear thrust bearing.
NOTE:
The clearance should be 0.13-0.25 mm (0.005-0.010 in.) with new parts and should not
exceed 0.30 mm (0.012 in.) between worn parts.
8. If the flex plates were removed from the blower drive gear hub, attach the spring plates to
the hub with three special 3/8 in.-24 x 0.925 in. lock bolts. Tighten the bolts to 47-53 N·m
NOTICE:
Do not install the lock washers against the steel plates.
9. Assemble the flex plates and the hub to the gear with three special 3/8 in.-24 x 0.925 in.
lock bolts. Tighten the bolts to 47-53 N·m (35-39 lb·ft) torque.
1.30.5 Installation of Blower Drive Gear and Support Assembly
Install the blower drive gear and support assembly as follows:

1. Affix a new gasket to the blower drive gear support, and attach the gear and support
assembly to the cylinder block rear end plate with two bolts and copper washers. Tighten
the bolts to 34-41 N·m (25-30 lb·ft) torque. See Figure 1-241.
1. Rear End Plate 4. Bolt

3. Blower Drive Gear Assembly
Figure 1-241 Installation of Blower Drive Gear Assembly
2. Check the gear backlash between the blower drive gear and the step-up gear attached to
the camshaft (non-turbocharged engine) or the camshaft gear (turbocharged engine).
NOTE:
To accurately check the backlash, all of the flywheel housing attaching bolts must be
tightened to their proper torque. Backlash should be 0.05-0.20 mm (0.002-0.008 in.) and
should not exceed 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) with worn parts.

3. Remove the four flywheel housing-to-blower drive support bolts.

4. Install the blower(s). Refer to section 6.5.5.

1.31 ACCESSORY DRIVE
Accessories such as an air compressor, hydraulic pump, or battery-charging alternator may be

direct-driven or belt-driven from various locations on the engine.
Listed in Table 1-14 are the possible accessory drive location and rotation at a particular position.
See Figure 1-242.
Accessory Drive Positions Drive Ratio

1 1:1
2 1:1
*3 2.60:1 or 2.05
4 2.05:1
5 Not a Drive Position
* Depends upon engine application
Table 1-14 Accessory Drive Positions and Ratios
Figure 1-242 Accessory Drive Locations

At the front of the engine, the left-bank camshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley may be used
to drive accessories. See Figure 1-243. On certain applications, an accessory drive pulley, that
mounts on a shaft attached to the water pump drive gear, provides a drive for a high mounted
battery-charging alternator.
1. Balance Weight Cover 3. Camshaft Pulley

2. Accessory Drive Pulley
Figure 1-243 Front Mounted Accessory Drive Pulleys (6V and 16V)
The blower drive gear, left-bank accessory drive gear, or either camshaft gear may drive
accessories.
The front accessory drive consists of a short drive hub bolted to the water pump drive gear
and a pulley keyed to the hub. They are secured with a bolt, lock washer, and plain washer.
An oil seal, pressed in the balance weight cover, prevents oil from seeping out where the shaft
extends through the cover.

The camshaft driven accessory drive includes a drive plate bolted to either one of the camshaft
gears. A direct-driven accessory is flange-mounted on the flywheel housing. A coupling splined
to both the accessory drive plate and a drive hub on the accessory shaft drives the rear mounted
camshaft accessory drive. See Figure 1-244.
1. Driven Hub (On Accessory) 4. Drive Plate

2. Drive Coupling 5. Camshaft Gear
3. Bolts
Figure 1-244 Components of Accessory Drive for Direct-Driven Applications
For a belt-driven accessory, a drive shaft is used in place of the drive coupling. One end of the
drive shaft is splined to the drive plate and the other end is supported by a bearing in the accessory
drive retainer, attached to the flywheel housing. See Figure 1-245. A drive pulley, attached to
the outer end of the drive shaft, is connected by belts to the accessory drive pulley, mounted
above the flywheel housing.

1. Bolt 8. Bolt
2. Drive Plate 9. Oil Seal
3. Drive Shaft 10. Pulley
4. Lock Ring 11. Key
5. Bearing 12. Nut
6. Gasket 13. Spacer
7. Lock Washer 14. Retainer
Figure 1-245 Components of Accessory Drive for Belt-Driven Accessory

(Drive Plate Type)

On some engines, an accessory drive hub is bolted directly to the camshaft gear. See Figure
1-246. An oil seal retainer is bolted to the flywheel housing and the pulley is keyed and secured to
the hub with a bolt, lock washer, and plain washer.
1. Drive Hub 7. Bolt

2. Bolt 8. Washer
3. Gasket 9. Lock Washer
4. Oil Seal 10. Bolt
5. Retainer 11. Pulley
6. Lock Washer 12. Key
Figure 1-246 Components of Accessory Drive for Belt-Driven Accessory

(Drive Hub Type)

Whenever an accessory is driven by the blower drive gear, a hub with two lugs replaces the
standard hub in the blower drive assembly. See Figure 1-247. An accessory drive assembly
consisting of a pulley, shaft double-row bearing, oil seal and oil seal spacer, and a driven hub and
a housing is bolted to the flywheel housing.
1. Accessory Drive Hub 3. Flywheel Housing

2. Blower
Figure 1-247 Accessory Drive Attached to Blower Drive Gear
A slotted coupling, that engages the lugs on the two hubs, provides the connection between
the accessory drive and the blower drive gear.

When required, an accessory drive gear is provided in the left-bank accessory pad in the flywheel
housing. See Figure 1-248. The accessory drive assembly is similar to the blower drive gear and
support assembly. The accessory drive gear, mounted on a support attached to the cylinder block
rear end plate, is driven by the left-bank camshaft gear. The bushing-type bearings in the gear are
pressure lubricated through an external oil line.
1. Accessory Drive 2. Drive Hub
Figure 1-248 Rear Left-Bank Drive Mounting
Detroit Diesel had released for service an improved coupling assembly for the 50DN alternator
drive on 6V and 8V parlor and transit coach engines. This improved drive assembly provides for
additional isolation of torque fluctuation on both cylinder banks and reduces camshaft bending
loads. The installation of the current isolated drive gear assembly will require the removal of the
alternator and power steering pump alternator plate to access the former drive gear without the
need to remove the flywheel housing.
The current drive gear assembly replaced the former solid drive gear that has a drive ratio of
2.94:1. Also, the current drive gear assembly replaces the former solid drive gear that uses a drive
ratio of 2.75:1. In addition, the former 20–tooth alternator pinion gear (for the 2.75:1 drive ratio)
must be replaced with the current 18-tooth Delco Remy® pinion gear, available from Delco Remy.
Use service kit 23525790 for installation of the improved drive gear assembly.
1.31.1 Repair or Replacement of Accessory Drive

See Figure 1-249.

Figure 1-249 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Accessory Drive
1.31.2 Removal of Front Accessory Drive
Remove front accessory drive as follows:

1. Loosen the alternator adjusting strap and alternator mounting bolts.

2. Remove the drive belt.

3. Remove any accessories necessary to provide access to the accessory drive pulley.
5. Remove the pulley retaining bolt, lock washer, and plain washer.
6. Remove the pulley and the key.
7. Remove the balance weight cover. Refer to section 1.32.2.
8. Replace the oil seal in the balance weight cover, if necessary.
9. Remove the three bolts and lock washers, and withdraw the drive shaft from the water
pump drive gear.
1.31.3 Removal of Direct-Drive Accessory Drive
Remove the accessory drive used with a direct-drive accessory as follows:

1. Disconnect any external piping or hoses at the accessory.
2. Remove the bolts and lock washers securing the accessory to the flywheel housing.
3. Pull the accessory straight out from the flywheel housing.
4. Remove the gasket.
5. Remove the drive coupling.
NOTE:
Place a clean, lintless cloth in the flywheel housing opening (under the accessory drive
plate) to prevent bolts from accidentally falling into the gear train.
6. Remove the four shoulder bolts and lock washers, if used.

7. Withdraw the accessory drive plate.
1.31.4 Removal of Gear-Driven Accessory Drive
If a gear-driven accessory is used, remove the drive coupling as follows:

1. Remove the bolts and lock washers securing the accessory to the flywheel.
2. Pull the accessory straight out from the flywheel housing.
3. Remove and discard the gasket.
1.31.5 Removal of Accessory Drive Hub
Remove the accessory drive hub as follows:

1. Slip the drive belt off the pulleys.
2. Remove the plain washer, lock washer, and bolt.

3. Remove the pulley.

4. Remove the key from the drive hub.
5. Remove the five attaching bolts and lock washers, and remove the retainer.
6. Remove and discard the gasket.
7. Remove and discard the oil seal.
8. Remove the four shoulder bolts.
9. Remove the drive hub.
1.31.6 Removal of Belt-Driven Accessory Drive
Remove the accessory drive used with a belt-driven accessory as follows:

1. Loosen the accessory mounting or adjusting bolts.
2. Remove the drive belts.
3. Remove the nut retaining the drive pulley on the accessory drive shaft.
4. Use a suitable gear puller, and withdraw the pulley from the shaft.
5. Remove the key from the shaft.
6. Remove the bolts and washers, and withdraw the accessory drive retainer assembly from
the flywheel housing.
NOTE:
Place a clean, lintless cloth in the flywheel housing opening under the accessory drive
plate or drive hub to prevent bolts from falling into the gear train.
8. Remove the four shoulder bolts, and withdraw the accessory drive plate or drive hub.
9. Remove the accessory drive shaft from the retainer.
10. Remove the snap ring and ball bearing from the accessory drive retainer.
1.31.7 Removal of Accessory Drive Internal Step-Up Gear
If a step-up gear is used, remove it as follows:

1. Remove the flywheel housing small hole covers. Refer to section 1.19.2.
2. Remove the four upper adaptor bolts, and loosen the two set screws.

3. Remove the figure "8" adaptor and the gasket. See Figure 1-250.
1. Bolt 7. Upper Housing Bolt

2. Internal Step-Up Gear 8. Accessory Drive Adaptor
3. Internal Step-Up Gear Set Screws 9. Adaptor Pilot Ring
4. Lock Washer 10. Adaptor Gasket
5. Steering Pump Adaptor 11. Flywheel Housing
6. Gasket
Figure 1-250 Rear Left-Bank Accessory Drive Assembly
1.31.8 Removal of Blower Accessory Drive
Remove the blower accessory drive as follows:

1. Loosen the alternator adjusting strap and alternator mounting bolts.

2. Remove the drive belts.

3. Remove the bolts and lock washers.
4. Withdraw the accessory drive assembly and the drive coupling.
5. Remove the blower drive shaft retaining ring.
6. Thread a No. 10-32 screw in the tapped hole and withdraw the blower drive shaft.
7. Remove the screw used to withdraw the shaft.
8. Remove the three bolts and lock washers, and withdraw the drive hub and two drive plates.
1.31.9 Removal of Left-Bank Accessory Drive
Remove the left-bank accessory drive as follows:

1. Remove the bolts and lock washers securing the hydraulic pump to the flywheel housing.
2. Withdraw the pump and gasket.
3. Remove the pump drive coupling.
4. Remove the three bolts and lock washers securing the accessory drive hub to the accessory
drive gear.
5. Withdraw the drive hub.
1.31.10 Disassembly of Blower Accessory Drive
Disassemble the blower accessory drive as follows:

1. Remove the pulley retaining nut.
2. Remove the pulley and the retaining key.
3. Remove the old seal spacer.
4. Press the shaft and hub from the bearing.
5. Press the shaft from the hub, and remove the key from the shaft.
6. Remove the lock ring and bearing from the housing.
7. Press the oil seal from the housing with a suitable tool.
1.31.11 Disassembly of Rear Left-Bank Accessory Drive
Disassemble the rear left-bank accessory drive as follows:

If further disassembly is required, the flywheel housing, gear train, accessory drive lubrication
tube, and cylinder block rear end plate must be removed first. Proceed as follows:
1. Remove the two bolts and copper washers securing the accessory drive support assembly
to the rear end plate.
2. Withdraw the support assembly, and remove the gasket.

3. Clamp the support assembly in a soft jawed vise.

4. Straighten the lugs on the lock washer and remove the gear retaining nut.
5. Withdraw the lock washer, thrust washer, thrust bearings, and accessory drive gear from
the support.
1.31.11.1 Cleaning of Accessory Drive
Prior to inspection, clean the parts as follows:
NOTICE:
Shielded bearings must not be washed. Dirt may be washed
in and the cleaning fluid might not be entirely removed from the
bearing. Wipe the outside of the bearing.
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Clean all parts with fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
1.31.11.2 Inspection of Accessory Drive
Inspect the accessory drives as follows:

1. Visually inspect the drive plate and the drive coupling (or drive shaft) teeth for wear.
[a] If worn, replace the parts. Refer to section 1.31.12.
2. Hold the ball bearing inner race, and slowly revolve the outer race to inspect for wear
and free rolling.
[a] If the bearing is worn or does not roll freely, replace the bearing. Refer to section
1.31.12.

[b] If the bearing is not worn and rolls freely, continue inspection.
3. Check the inside diameter of the accessory drive gear bearings (bushing type) and the
outside diameter of the hub on the gear support.
NOTE:
The clearance between the bearings and the support hub is 0.03-0.065 mm
(0.001-0.0025 in.) with new parts.
NOTE:
If new bearings are installed, the outer end of each bearing must be pressed in flush to
0.25 mm (0.010 in.) below the face of the gear. The bearings must be reamed to size
(41.300-41.313 mm 1.6260-1.6265 in. inside diameter) and to a finish of 20 micro-inches
after installation. The bearing bores must also be square with the machined faces of the
bolt bosses on the gear within 0.08 mm (0.003 in.) total indicator reading and concentric
with the outside diameter of the gear. The thrust washer retaining pin must extend
approximately 2.03 mm (0.080 in.) above the threaded end of the support hub.
[a] Replace the parts when the clearance exceeds 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) on used parts.
[b] If parts do not exceed specified clearances, continue inspection.
4. Remove and discard the oil seal. Inspect the drive shaft oil seal contact surface or drive
hub for grooves.
[a] If the shaft is grooved and cannot be "cleaned-up," replace it. Refer to section 1.31.20.
[b] If not grooved or can be "cleaned-up," proceed with the inspection.
5. Inspect the drive hub for grooves and oil seal effectiveness.
[a] If the drive hub is excessively grooved, and the oil seal is no longer effective, install a
ring-type oil seal spacer to reposition the seal and provide a new sealing surface for
the oil seal lip. Refer to section 1.31.18.
[b] If the drive hub is not excessively grooved, and the oil seal is still effective, continue
inspection.
6. Inspect the thrust bearings and thrust washers for scoring or wear.
[a] If excessively worn or scored, replace the thrust bearings and thrust washer.
[b] If not excessively worn or scored, reuse the thrust bearings and thrust washers.
1.31.12 Assembly of Blower Accessory Drive
Assemble the blower accessory drive as follows:

1. Install a key in the hub end of the shaft.
2. Lubricate the shaft, and press the hub tight against the shaft shoulder.
3. Install a new oil seal in the housing.

4. Install the bearing in the housing.

5. Install the lock ring.
6. Use a sleeve to support the bearing inner race, lubricate the shaft, and press the hub and
shaft assembly in the bearing until the shaft shoulder contacts the bearing inner race.
7. Install a key in the pulley end of the shaft.
8. Lubricate the shaft, and press the pulley on the shaft until it contacts the inner race of
the oil seal spacer.
9. Install the 3/4 in.-16 pulley retaining nut. Tighten it to 163-190 N·m (120-140 lb·ft) torque.

1.31.13 Assembly of Rear Left-Bank Accessory Drive
See Figure 1-251. Assemble the rear left-bank accessory drive as follows:
1. Gasket 7. Bolt
2. Accessory Drive Retainer 8. Drive Hub
3. Flywheel Housing 9. Nut
4. Thrust Bearing (2) 10. Lock Washer
5. Accessory Drive Gear 11. Thrust Washer
6. Lock Washer
Figure 1-251 Rear Left-Bank Accessory Drive Assembly
1. Clamp the accessory drive support in a soft jawed vise.

2. Align the thrust bearing tangs with the support holes.

USED ENGINE OIL

3. Lubricate the support hub, the gear bearings, both thrust bearings, and the thrust washer
with clean engine oil.
4. Slide the gear on the hub, the flat side of the gear toward the support.
5. Install the second thrust bearing on the support, the bearing tangs facing away from the
gear.
6. Align the thrust washer slots with the thrust bearing tangs.
7. Align the support hub pin with the washer bore slot.
8. Secure the gear, thrust bearings, and thrust washer with a lock washer and nut.
NOTE:
The new thrust washer with two inner diameter keyways and the new lock washer with a
longer tang must be used together for optimal nut locking.
9. Tighten the nut to 68-81 N·m (50-60 lb·ft) torque. Bend the lock washer lugs against the
nut flats.
10. Check the clearance between the thrust washer and the thrust bearing with a feeler gage.
NOTE:
The clearance must not exceed 0.30 mm (0.012 in.) with used parts. With new parts, the
specified clearance is 0.13-0.25 mm (0.005-0.010 in.).
11. Affix a new gasket to the accessory drive gear.

12. Attach assembly to the cylinder block rear end plate with two bolts and copper washers.
Tighten the bolts to 34-41 N·m (25-30 lb·ft) torque.
13. Install the rear end plate and gear train.
14. Check the backlash between the accessory drive gear and the camshaft gear.
NOTE:
The backlash must be between 0.05-0.20 mm (0.002-0.008 in.) with new gears and must
not exceed 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) with worn gears.
15. Install the flywheel housing.

16. Install the accessory drive lubrication tube.

1.31.14 Installation of Front Accessory Drive
Install the front accessory drive as follows:

1. Attach the accessory drive shaft to the water pump drive gear with three 5/16 in.-24 x 7/8 in.
bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts to 20-26 N·m (15-19 lb·ft) torque.
2. Install the balance weight cover. Refer to section 1.32.3.
3. Install the key in the shaft.
4. Install the pulley on the shaft, and secure it with a 3/8 in.-16 x 7/8 in. bolt, lock washer,
and plain washer. Tighten the bolt to 34 N·m (25 lb·ft) torque.
6. Install any accessories removed to provide access to the accessory drive pulley.
7. Install the drive belt, and adjust the alternator to provide the proper belt tension. Tighten
the alternator adjusting strap bolt and alternator mounting bolts.
NOTE:
When installing or adjusting accessory drive belts, ensure the bolt at the accessory
adjusting pivot and the bolt in the adjusting slot is properly tightened. Refer to section
1.31.13.
1.31.15 Installation of Direct-Drive Accessory Drive
Install the accessory drive used with a direct-drive accessory as follows:

1. Align the bolt holes in the accessory drive plate with the tapped camshaft gear holes.
2. Secure the drive plate with the four special shoulder bolts. Tighten the bolts to 61-68 N·m
3. Remove the lintless cloth from the flywheel housing opening.
4. Install the drive coupling.
5. Install a new gasket.
6. Place the accessory straight on the flywheel housing, and secure with bolts and lock
washers.
7. Connect any external piping or hoses to the accessory.
1.31.16 Installation of Gear-Driven Accessory Drive
If a gear-driven accessory is used, install the drive coupling as follows:

1. Affix a new gasket to the mounting flange on the accessory.
2. Place the accessory in position against the flywheel housing, and rotate it, if necessary, to
align the teeth of the drive hub with those in the drive coupling.
3. Secure the accessory to the flywheel housing with bolts and lock washers.

1.31.17 Installation of Belt Driven Accessory Drive
If a belt-driven accessory is used, proceed as follows:

1. Place the accessory drive retainer on a bench, mounting flange side up. Lubricate the
outside diameter of the bearing with oil.
2. Press or tap the bearing, the protruding face of the inner race facing toward the retainer,
straight in until it contacts the retainer shoulder.
3. Install the lock ring.
4. Turn the retainer over, and coat the bore with sealant.
5. Press a new oil seal into the retainer bore with the seal lip facing the bearing. Wipe any
excess sealant from the retainer.
6. Turn the retainer over, bearing side up. Lubricate the drive shaft, and press it in the bearing
until the shaft shoulder contacts the bearing.
7. Affix a new gasket to the retainer mounting flange.
8. Position the retainer and shaft assembly against the flywheel housing. Rotate the shaft
slightly, if necessary, to permit the teeth of the shaft to mesh with the teeth in the accessory
drive plate.
9. Secure the retainer to the flywheel housing with five bolts and lock washers. Tighten the
10. Install the key in the shaft. Start the pulley on the shaft, and tap it into place.
11. Install the 3/4 in.-16 retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 163-190 N·m (120-140 lb·ft) torque.
12. Slip the drive belts over the pulleys. Position the accessory to provide the proper tension
on the belts, and secure in place.
NOTE:
adjusting pivot point and the adjusting slot bolt is properly tightened.
1.31.18 Installation of Accessory Drive Hub
If an accessory drive hub is used, proceed as follows:

1. Align the drive hub bolt holes with the tapped holes in the camshaft gear. Secure the
drive hub to the gear with four shoulder bolts. Tighten the bolts to 61-68 N·m (45-50
lb·ft) torque.
2. Use a dial indicator to check the run-out of the drive hub shaft.
NOTE:
The run-out must be within 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) total indicator reading.

3. Coat the retainer bore with sealant, and press a new oil seal in place.
NOTE:
The seal lip must face the engine when the retainer is installed.
4. Affix a new gasket to the retainer mounting flange.

5. Place the retainer against the flywheel housing, and install the five attaching bolts and
lock washers.
6. Before tightening the bolts, insert tool J 21166 over the shaft and into the retainer bore
to align the oil seal with the shaft. Tighten the retainer bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft)
torque, and remove the oil seal aligning tool.
7. Install the key in the drive hub.
8. Start the pulley on the drive hub, and tap it into place.
9. Install the plain washer, lock washer, and bolt. Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb·ft) torque.
10. Slip the drive belt over the pulleys. Position the accessory to provide the proper tension on
the belt, and secure it in place.
NOTE:
adjusting pivot point and the adjusting slot bolt is properly tightened. Refer to section
13.18.

1.31.19 Installation of Step-Up Gear
If a step-up gear is used, see Figure 1-252. Proceed as follows:
1. Bolt 7. Upper Housing Bolt

2. Internal Step-Up Gear 8. Accessory Drive Adaptor
3. Internal Step-Up Gear Set Screws (2) 9. Adaptor Pilot Ring
4. Lock Washer 10. Adaptor Gasket
5. Steering Pump Adaptor Cover 11. Flywheel Housing
6. Gasket
Figure 1-252 Step-Up Gear Installation
1. Affix a new gasket to the figure "8" adaptor. Position the adaptor on the flywheel housing
using a feeler gage, or equivalent, on the camshaft gear.

2. Install and tighten the four upper adaptor bolts. Adjust the two set screws until they are
snug against the flywheel housing.
3. Place alignment gage J 29893 in the step-up gear, and secure it with the gage read point at
the 8 o'clock set screw position.
4. Set the dial indicator on "0."
NOTICE:
When barring an engine, always turn clockwise. Ensure the
crankshaft end bolt has not been loosened during the barring
operation. Serious engine damage may result if the vibration
damper or pulley is not securely fastened to the crankshaft.
PERSONAL INJURY
5. Bar the engine over.
NOTE:
The gage must travel clockwise until the read point is at the 2 o'clock position set screw
(180 degrees).
6. If the dial indicator reads between the initial "0" setting and ± 0.002 in., remove the
alignment gage.
7. If the dial indicator reads more than ± 0.002 in. from the initial setting of "0," loosen the
four upper adaptor bolts. Back off the set screws on the adaptor, and readjust them until
the dial indicator reading is one-half of the total variance.
8. Refer to step 6 and refer to step 7, to repeat the process until the proper readings are
obtained or a maximum of three attempts have been made.
9. If the proper alignment readings cannot be obtained after three attempts, change the
adaptor.
10. Remove the alignment gage.
NOTICE:
Ensure alternator is properly fitted to the adaptor before it is
bolted in place. Improper installation of the alternator can disturb
adaptor alignment and cause gear train damage.
11. Install the flywheel housing small hole covers. Refer to section 1.19.3.

1.31.20 Installation of Rear Blower Accessory Drive
Install the rear blower accessory drive as follows:

1. Install the drive hub and the two drive plates on the blower drive gear.
2. Install the blower drive shaft, and secure it in place with the snap ring.
3. Place a new gasket on the accessory drive housing mounting flange.
4. Place the slotted drive coupling on the accessory drive assembly hub.
5. Align the coupling slots with the hub lugs attached to the blower drive gear.
6. Position the accessory drive against the flywheel housing. Secure the accessory drive
assembly to the flywheel housing with bolts and lock washers.
7. Place the drive belts over the pulleys, and adjust the tension on the belts. Tighten the
accessory mounting bolts.
8. Install the flywheel housing small hole covers if they were removed. Refer to section
1.19.3.
1.31.21 Installation of Left-Bank Accessory Drive
Install the left-bank accessory drive as follows:

1. Position the drive hub on the accessory drive gear, and secure it with three bolts and
lock washers.
2. Affix a new gasket to the mounting flange on the hydraulic pump.
3. Place the slotted drive coupling on the pump driven hub. Align the coupling slots with
the drive hub lugs.
4. Position the pump against the flywheel housing. Secure the pump to the flywheel housing
with bolts and lock washers.
5. Install the flywheel housing small hole covers. Refer to section 1.19.3.

1.32 BALANCE WEIGHT COVER
The balance weight cover encloses the combination balance weight and water pump drive gear
on the front end of the right cylinder bank camshaft. See Figure 1-253. This cover also serves
to support the water pump.
1. Balance Weight Cover Bolts 5. Gasket

2. Lock Washers 6. Front End Plate
3. Plain Washers 7. Balance Weight Cover Alignment Dowel
4. Balance Weight Cover 8. Camshaft Balance Weight Assemblies
Figure 1-253 Typical Balance Weight Cover Assembly
The balance weight cover requires no servicing. When an engine is being completely
reconditioned or the right-bank camshaft, camshaft bearings, or water pump drive gear need
replacing, the balance weight cover must be removed.

1.32.1 Repair or Replacement of Balance Weight Cover
The balance weight cover is not a serviceable item. Removal and installation procedures are listed
below. See Figure 1-254.
Figure 1-254 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Balance Weight Cover
1.32.2 Removal of Balance Weight Cover
Remove the balance weight cover as follows:

3. Remove any other parts required to remove the balance weight cover.
4. Remove the bolts, washers, and lock washers securing the balance weight cover to the
front end plate and the cylinder block.
NOTE:
The cover is doweled to the end plate.
5. Tap the cover ends with a soft hammer to loosen it.

6. Remove all traces of the old gasket material from the cover and the end plate.
1.32.3 Installation of Balance Weight Cover
Install the balance weight cover as follows:

1. Affix a new gasket to the balance weight cover.

2. An accessory drive shaft oil seal is pressed into the balance weight cover on some engines.
See Figure 1-255. If necessary, replace the oil seal as follows:
1. Balance Weight Cover 2. Press Fit Oil Seal
Figure 1-255 Removing Accessory Drive Balance Weight Cover Oil Seal
1. Drive the old oil seal out of the cover.
NOTE:
The new oil seal is plastic coated on the outside diameter for sealing purposes. Do
not remove this coating.

2. Position the seal with the sealing lip pointing toward the inner side of the cover.
See Figure 1-256.
1. Oil Seal 2. Balance Weight Cover (Face Down)
Figure 1-256 Installation of Accessory Drive Oil Seal
3. Drive the seal in with installer J 9791 until it is flush with the outer surface of the cover.
4. Coat the seal lip with grease.
Complete installation as follows:
1. Install the balance weight cover on the engine, and secure it with bolts, nuts, lock washers,
and plain washers.
2. Tighten the 3/8 in.-16 bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft) torque, 3/8 in.-24 bolts and nuts to
47-53 N·m (35-39 lb·ft) torque, 1/2 in.-13 bolts to 96-102 N·m (71-75 lb·ft) torque and
the 5/8 in.-11 bolts to 186-200 N·m (137-147 lb·ft) torque.
4. Install any other parts that were removed.
5. Fill the cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.

1.A ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
Description Page
SHOP NOTES .................................................................................................. 1-472

AIR BOX DRAINS .......................................................................................... 1-472
Inspection of Check Valve .......................................................................... 1-474
Inspect Air Box Pressure ............................................................................ 1-475
CYLINDER BLOCK LINE BORING ................................................................ 1-475
Dimensions for Machine Shop Line Boring Cylinder Block ......................... 1-490
METHODS OF INSPECTION FOR CYLINDER HEAD .................................. 1-496
REPLACING CYLINDER HEAD BOLT HOLE PLUG ..................................... 1-498
TOOL MODIFICATION PROCEDURE ........................................................... 1-499
WELDING ENGINE CYLINDER HEADS ....................................................... 1-501
ISOLATE ECM COMPONENTS BEFORE WELDING ................................... 1-502
REUSE CROSSHEAD PISTON ASSEMBLY COMPONENTS ...................... 1-502
PRESSURE TEST CYLINDER HEAD (CYLINDER HEAD DISASSEM-
BLED) ...................................................................................................... 1-504
PRESSURE TEST CYLINDER HEAD (CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLED
AND REMOVED FROM ENGINE) .......................................................... 1-507
INSTALLATION OF NEW SOLID BLOCK PLUGS ......................................... 1-511
CYLINDER BLOCK PLUGGING INSTRUCTIONS (6V AND 8V ENGINES) . 1-512
CYLINDER BLOCK PLUGGING INSTRUCTIONS (12V AND 16V
ENGINES) ............................................................................................... 1-515
CYLINDER HEAD PLUGGING INSTRUCTIONS .......................................... 1-518
EXHAUST VALVE ADJUSTMENT ................................................................. 1-521
Installation of Valve Guide Oil Seal ............................................................. 1-523
Reconditioning Exhaust Valve and Valve Seat ........................................... 1-524
REGRINDING CRANKSHAFT JOURNALS ................................................... 1-529
REPLACING FORMER DESIGN WATER NOZZLES .................................... 1-530
FLYWHEEL HOUSING CONCENTRICITY AND BOLTING FLANGE
FACE RUNOUT ...................................................................................... 1-531
PISTON-TO-LINER CLEARANCE ................................................................. 1-535

Hone The Cylinder Liner ............................................................................. 1-539
SPECIFICATIONS .......................................................................................... 1-541
Table of Specifications, New Part Clearances and Wear Limits ................. 1-541
EXCEPTIONS TO STANDARD FASTENER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ... 1-554
Special Plug Torque Specifications ............................................................. 1-559
SHOP NOTES
Shop notes for the Series 92 Engine:
AIR BOX DRAINS
During normal engine operation, water vapor, fuel fumes, and lubricating oil fumes condense on
the bottom of the air box. The air box and air box drain tubes, mounted on the side of the cylinder
block, remove the condensation. See Figure 1-257.
1. Air box Drains
Figure 1-257 Early Air Box Drain Tube
NOTE:
Early V-92 vehicle engines built without the air box drain check valves and engines built
with drain tubes routed to the crankcase via the dipstick adaptor should be updated with
the current open air box drain system. See Figure 1-258.

1. Plunger 4. Air Box Cover

2. Spring 5. Air Box Drain
3. Check Valve
Figure 1-258 Open Air Box Drain Tube and Check Valve System
Some engines are equipped with a drain tank to collect and retain the air box sediment.
A check or control valve in the air box drain fitting allows drainage only at low air box pressure.
The valve closes when air box pressure is increased.
The check valve cutaway shows the valve operating at engine idle speed. As the engine speed
and air box pressure increase, the valve moves forward and seats, blocking air flow. Two valves
with different pressure settings are available. See Figure 1-258.
NOTE:
Early V-92 vehicle engines built without the air box drain check valve and engines built
with drain tubes routed to the crankcase via the dipstick adaptor should be updated with
the current open air box drain system. See Figure 1-259.

1. Former Drain Opening
Figure 1-259 Left-Bank Air Box Drains and Covers (6V-92 Vee Drive Coach
Engines)
NOTE:
DDC recommends retrofitting existing 6V vee drive coach engines with the new air box
covers and drains because of the significant drainage improvement.
NOTE:
To ensure efficient air box drainage, install air box covers with the drilled drain openings
down and the slot in the large cover facing inboard. Install check valves at an angle of
30 degrees to 45 degrees. Do not install check valves horizontally.
Inspection of Check Valve
Inspect the check valve as follows:

1. Disconnect the drain tube between the check valve and the air box drain tube nut.

2. Run the engine, and note the air flowing through the valve at idle speed.
3. If the check valve is operating properly, there should be no airflow at engine speeds above
900-950 RPM. or 1400 RPM., depending on the valve used.
[a] If airflow is present at engine speeds above 900-950 RPM. or 1400 RPM., replace the
check valve.
[b] If no airflow is present, reuse the check valve.
Inspect Air Box Pressure
To check air box pressures on an engine with drain tubes or hoses, proceed as follows:
1. Use an air box cover with a tapped hole for a fitting.
2. Remove the plug in the cover.
3. Install a fitting and a short drain tube.
4. Attach a manometer to the end of the drain tube.
5. Check the air box pressure. Refer to section 13.27.
[a] If the air box pressure is not within specified limits, replace the air box.
[b] If the air box pressure is within specified limits, reuse the air box.
CYLINDER BLOCK LINE BORING
To repair the main bearing saddles in a cylinder block damaged by spun main bearings, the
damaged saddle must be machined to accept an insert. The insert and a new unfinished main
bearing service cap are then line bored to the proper dimensions to accept standard main bearing
shells.
Instructions for using the cylinder block line boring tool J 29005 are listed below:
NOTE:
To use this tool, two of the main bearing saddles must be undamaged, with one being
the rear main saddle. The cylinder block assemblies of 12 and 16 cylinder engines must
be separated and each "half block" line bored separately. If line boring performed in a
suitably equipped machine shop, refer to “Dimensions for Machine Shop Line Boring
Cylinder Block” in this section.
1. Remove all the plugs and main bearing caps, and clean the usable cylinder block.
2. Determine which two undamaged main bearing saddles are to be used as alignment
locations. Since the rear main bearing saddle cannot be repaired with this tool set, it must
be one of the undamaged saddles. These saddles should be as far apart as possible.
NOTE:
In a block where the front and rear main bearing cap and saddle are serviceable, the
journals in between can be repaired successively without removing the centering rings
from the front and rear positions. When the only good main bearing bores are next to
each other, the centering rings will have to be mounted there and marked for indexing.

The closest bore will then be repaired first. The rear centering ring will remain in position
and the other centering ring will be moved into the just repaired saddle so that the next
damaged saddle can be repaired. The centering ring should be indexed identically
when moved from saddle to saddle.
3. Set the centering rings (122.238 mm or 4.8125 in.) into the alignment saddles, and install
the main bearing caps. Do not tighten the bolts.
4. Slide the boring bar through the centering rings.
USED ENGINE OIL

5. Lubricate the ring hole with clean engine oil during installation. The bar should rotate
freely. See Figure 1-260.
1. Boring Bar 3. Centering Ring

2. Cylinder Block
Figure 1-260 Location of Boring Bar

6. Tighten the main bearing cap bolts on the caps holding the centering rings to the torque
specified, 312-325 N·m (230-240 lb·ft).
NOTE:
If the centering rings are loose in the saddle after tightening the bolts, use 0.001 in.
paper shims, as necessary, between the ring and the main bearing cap and between the
ring and the block.
7. Install the caps on all the remaining saddles, except the saddle to be machined, and hand
tighten the bolts.
8. Install the insert hold-down bolts into the bolt holes of the saddle to be machined.
NOTE:
Do not tighten the bolts. This is only to keep chips out of the bolt holes.
9. Fasten the torsion bar and the hydraulic feed unit on either end of the cylinder block. Index
the flat part of the feed rod into the boring bar. Snug the set screw. See Figure 1-261.
1. Centering Ring 4. Feed Rod

2. Boring Bar 5. Feed Unit
3. Torsion Bar
Figure 1-261 Location of Feed Rod and Unit

10. Zero the micrometer with the test block supplied. See Figure 1-262. The micrometer is
0.050 in. per revolution, not 0.025 in. as normally seen on micrometers.
1. Base 4. Micrometer
2. Shaft 5. Holder
3. Test Block
Figure 1-262 Test Fixture and Micrometer
11. Install the cutting tool holder on the micrometer test fixture. Use only the straight Allen
wrench supplied in the kit.

12. Set the cutting tool for the first cut of 0.040 in. See Figure 1-263. The point of the cutting
tool should be in the center of the micrometer barrel.
1. Cutter Bit Push Key 3. Cutting Tool Bit

2. Cutting Tool
Figure 1-263 Installing Cutting Tool Holder
NOTE:
Excessively tightening the Allen head screws is unnecessary.
13. Install the cutting tool on the boring bar.

Example:
Block:Bore Diameter First Cut 4.812 in. + 0.040 in. Insert/Cap:4.712 in. + 0.040 in.
Block:Set Tool Second Cut 4.852 in. + 0.040 in. Insert/Cap: 4.752 in. + 0.040 in.
Block: Set Tool Final Cut 4.892 in. + 0.020 in. Insert/Cap: 4.792 in. + 0.020 in.
Final Block Dimension: Final Dimension 4.912 in. / 4.913

Final Insert/Cap Dimension: Final Dimension 4.912 in. / 4.913
NOTE:
From the operator's viewpoint, the tool feeds away from him and rotates clockwise.
See Figure 1-264.
1. Feed Unit
Figure 1-264 Use of Hydraulic Feed Unit
NOTE:
When installing the cutter, ensure the sharp portion of the bit is in the cutting position.
See Figure 1-264.
USED ENGINE OIL

14. Lubricate the boring bar at the centering rings with clean engine oil before each cut.
15. Use a 1/2 in. drill motor of 300-400 RPM. Lubricate and install the universal drive in the
drill chuck. Move the hydraulic feed unit lever to the "closed" position.
16. Line bore the distressed saddle using the three cuts and the dimensions given above.
17. If other bores are to be machined, remove the insert hold-down bolts and cover the
machined saddle with a new unfinished service line bore cap. Hand tighten the bolts.

Machine the next saddle as follows:

1. Install the caps on all the remaining saddles, except the saddle to be machined, and hand
tighten the bolts.
2. Install the insert hold-down bolts into the bolt holes of the saddle to be machined.
NOTE:
Do not tighten the bolts. This is only to keep chips out of the bolt holes.
3. Fasten the torsion bar and the hydraulic feed unit on either end of the cylinder block. Index
the flat part of the feed rod into the boring bar. Snug the set screw. See Figure 1-265.
1. Centering Ring 4. Feed Rod

2. Boring Bar 5. Feed Unit
3. Torsion Bar
Figure 1-265 Location of Feed Rod and Unit

4. Zero the micrometer with the test block supplied. See Figure 1-266. The micrometer is
0.050 in. per revolution, not 0.025 in. as normally seen on micrometers.
1. Base 4. Micrometer
2. Shaft 5. Holder
3. Test Block
Figure 1-266 Test Fixture and Micrometer
5. Install the cutting tool holder on the micrometer test fixture. Use only the straight Allen
wrench supplied in the kit.

6. Set the cutting tool for the first cut of 0.040 in. See Figure 1-267. The point of the cutting
tool should be in the center of the micrometer barrel.
1. Cutter Bit Push Key 3. Cutting Tool Bit

2. Cutting Tool
Figure 1-267 Installing Cutting Tool Holder

7. Install the cutting tool on the boring bar.
NOTE:
Excessively tightening the Allen head screws is unnecessary.
NOTE:
From the operator's viewpoint, the tool feeds away from him and rotates clockwise.
See Figure 1-268.
1. Feed Unit
Figure 1-268 Use of Hydraulic Feed Unit
NOTE:
When installing the cutter, ensure the sharp portion of the bit is in the cutting position.
See Figure 1-269.

USED ENGINE OIL

8. Lubricate the boring bar at the centering rings with clean engine oil before each cut.
9. Use a 1/2 in. drill motor of 300-400 RPM. Lubricate and install the universal drive in the
drill chuck. Move the hydraulic feed unit lever to the "closed" position.
10. Line bore the distressed saddle using the three cuts and the dimensions given above.
NOTE:
If other bores are to be machined, remove the insert hold-down bolts and cover the
machined saddle with a new unfinished service line bore cap. Hand tighten the bolts.
Complete cylinder block line boring as follows:

1. Remove the boring bar, and clean the reworked saddles.
2. After the saddles have been reworked, inserts must be installed. Install and align the
insert with the hold-down bolts and plates provided. Use the plate with a "step" on the

side of the insert opposite the tang. Tighten the hold-down bolts to 27 N·m (20 lb·ft)
torque. See Figure 1-270.
1. Holding Plate 3. Bearing Insert

2. Bushings
Figure 1-270 Position of Bushing and Hold Down Plate
3. Check the insert for alignment and fit.

4. Using a 1/8 in. drill bit, drill four holes in the saddle 1/4 in. deep through the four
predrilled holes in the insert. See Figure 1-271.
1. Bearing Shell Insert
Figure 1-271 Drilling for Rivet Installation
EYE INJURY
5. Clean the drilled holes with compressed air, and install the rivets.

NOTICE:
Be careful not to strike the insert directly. The insert will distort.
Two or three blows on the punch are usually sufficient to secure
the rivet.
6. Secure the rivets with a hammer and punch. See Figure 1-272.
1. Holding Plate 3. Bearing Shell Insert

2. Bushing
Figure 1-272 Securing the Rivets

7. File off the excess rivet material. See Figure 1-273.
1. Bearing Shell Insert 2. File
Figure 1-273 Filing Excess Rivet Material
8. Remove both the insert hold-down bolts and plates, and file the excess material on the
insert flush with the saddle-cap parting surface.
NOTE:
If the insert is loose, secure the rivets.
9. Install unfinished service bore caps on all repaired main bearing saddles. Torque the bolts
to 312-325 N·m (230-240 lb·ft).
10. Line bore the unfinished cap and insert to the standard bore dimension using the previous
procedure and dimensions.
11. Remove burrs and debris, and clean with a spray lubricant.

12. Check the finished bore with the "Go-No-Go" test rings mounted on the boring bar. The
"Go" ring should pass through the reworked saddle and cap bore with a slight drag.
NOTE:
If centering rings are removed during the line boring operation, mark the ring and saddle
to insure proper installation alignment.
NOTE:
If the cylinder block is line bored properly, there will be no more than 0.03 mm (0.001 in.)
overall misalignment from one end of the block to the other, or no more than 0.013 mm
(0.0005 in.) between adjacent bores.
13. Clean the cylinder block, install the plugs and proceed with the rebuild.
Dimensions for Machine Shop Line Boring Cylinder Block
If the criteria for using tool J 29005 (two undamaged main bearing saddles, one of which must be
the rear main saddle) cannot be met, or if you desire to salvage the cylinder block by line boring
in a suitably equipped machine shop, critical dimensions must be maintained.
1. The cylinder block assembly of 12 and 16 cylinder engines must be separated and each
"half-block" line bored separately.
2. Remove all plugs and main bearing caps, and clean the cylinder block.
NOTE:
The surface from which all critical dimensions are measured for line boring are the
reamed locating holes (23.80-23.83 mm or 0.937-0.938 in.) at each end of the left-bank
pan rail looking from the gear train end of the cylinder block. See Figure 1-274. The
centerline of the crankshaft is 126.97-127.03 mm (4.999-5.001 in.) in from the centerline

of the reamed locating holes and 120.60-120.70 mm (4.748-4.752 in.) up from the pan
rail surface.
Figure 1-274 Line Boring Dimensions and Locating Holes
3. Machine the main bearing saddle bore(s) to the following dimension.

4. After the saddles have been reworked, inserts must be installed. Install and align the
insert with the hold-down bolts and plates provided. Use the plate with a "step" on the

side of the insert opposite the tang. Tighten the hold-down bolts to 27 N·m (20 lb·ft)
torque. See Figure 1-275.
1. Holding Plate 3. Bearing Insert

2. Bushings
Figure 1-275 Position of Bushing and Hold Down Plate
5. Check the insert for alignment and fit.

6. Using a 1/8 in. drill bit, drill four holes in the saddle 1/4 in. deep through the four
predrilled holes in the insert. See Figure 1-276.
1. Bearing Shell Insert
Figure 1-276 Drilling for Rivet installation
EYE INJURY
7. Clean the drilled holes with compressed air, and install the rivets.

NOTICE:
Be careful not to strike the insert directly. The insert will distort.
Two or three blows on the punch are usually sufficient to secure
the rivet.
8. Secure the rivets with a hammer and punch. See Figure 1-277.
1. Holding Plate 3. Bearing Shell

2. Bushing
Figure 1-277 Securing the Rivets

9. File off the excess rivet material. See Figure 1-278.
1. Bearing Shell Insert 2. File
Figure 1-278 Filing Excess Rivet Material
10. Remove both the insert hold-down bolts and plates, and file the excess material on the
insert flush with the saddle-cap parting surface.
NOTE:
If the insert is loose, secure the rivets.
11. Install unfinished service bore caps on all repaired main bearing saddles. Tighten the bolts
to the specified torque 312-325 N·m (230-240 lb·ft).
12. Line bore the unfinished cap and insert to the standard bore dimension using the previous
procedure and dimensions.
13. Remove burrs and debris, and clean with a spray lubricant.

14. Check the finished bore with the "Go-No-Go" test rings mounted on the boring bar. The
"Go" ring should pass through the reworked saddle and cap bore with a slight drag.
NOTE:
If centering rings are removed during the line boring operation, mark the ring and saddle
to insure proper installation alignment.
NOTE:
If the cylinder block is line bored properly, there will be no more than 0.03 mm (0.001 in.)
overall misalignment from one end of the block to the other, or no more than 0.013
mm (0.0005 in.) between adjacent bores.
15. Clean the cylinder block, install the plugs, and proceed with the rebuild.
16. Install new unfinished service line bore caps on the machined main bearing saddles.
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque 312-325 N·m (230-140 lb·ft).
NOTE:
Main bearing cap bolts are specially designed and must not be replaced by ordinary bolts.
17. Line bore the installed inserts and unfinished service caps to the standard bore demotions.
18. The straightness of the finished bore must not vary more than 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) from end
to end in the cylinder block or more than 0.013 mm (0.0005 in.) between adjacent bores.
19. Clean the cylinder block, and install the plugs.
20. Check and assemble the line bored block(s), and proceed with the rebuild.
METHODS OF INSPECTION FOR CYLINDER HEAD
The following describes the methods used for inspecting the cylinder block for cracks:
□ Magnetic Particle Method: The Cylinder head is magnetized and then covered with
a fine magnetic powder or solution. Flaws, such as cracks, form a small local magnet
which cause the magnetic particles in the powder or solution to gather there, effectively
marking the crack.
NOTE:
The cylinder head must be demagnetized after the test
□ Fluorescent Magnetic Particle Method: This method is similar to the magnetic particle
method, but is more sensitive since it uses fluorescent magnetic particles which glow
under a "Black Light."
NOTE:
Very fine cracks, especially on discolored or dark surfaces, that may be missed using the
Magnetic Particle Method, will be disclosed under the "Black Light."
□ Fluorescent Penetrant Method: A Highly fluorescent liquid penetrant is applied to the

area in question. Then, the excess penetrant is wiped off the surface and the part is dried.

A developing powder is then applied which helps to draw the penetrant out of the flaws by
capillary action. Inspection to find the crack is carried out using a "Black Light".
□ Non-Fluorescent Penetrant Method: The test area being inspected is sprayed with
"Spotcheck" or Dye Check. Allow one to thirty minutes to dry. Moisten cloths with cleaner
to remove the excess surface penetrant. DO NOT flush surface with cleaner/remover
because this will impair sensitivity.Repeat this procedure with additional wiping until
residual surface penetrant has been removed. Shake developer thoroughly until agitator
rattles. Invert spray can and spray short bursts to clear valve. Then, spray this developer
film evenly over the test area being inspected. Allow developer film to dry completely
before inspecting. Recommended developing time is five to fifteen minutes.
NOTE:
Refer to manufacture (MPSI) for inspection procedures.
MICRO PROCESSOR SYSTEMS, INC.

6405 Nineteen Mile Road
Sterling Heights, MI 48078
Phone: (313) 731-6410
(800) 242-MPSI
Fax: (313) 731-3348

REPLACING CYLINDER HEAD BOLT HOLE PLUG
The cylinder head bolt hole plugs are designed to seal the head bolt holes from the coolant
passages. Replace a cylinder head bolt hole plug in the cylinder block, as follows. See Figure
1-279.
1. Cylinder Block 3. Water Jacket

2. Plug
Figure 1-279 Location of Cylinder Head Bolt Hole Plug
1. Remove the old plug, and clean the threads of all old sealant by running bottom tap
J 25384 down the hole. The threads must be clean and dry before applying sealant.
2. Apply a sufficient quantity of Loctite 290 Sealant, or equivalent, to the threads in the block
at the minimum depth of the stud plug (50.29 mm or 1.980 in.), as well as to the plug itself.
NOTE:
Some commonly used pipe sealants have been found to be ineffective for this
application. Use Loctite 290.
3. Screw the plug in until the top of the plug is 50.29-52.58 mm (1.980-2.070 in.) maximum
below the block surface for bolt clearance.
NOTICE:
Do not apply sealant to the top of the plug after installation.
4. Allow the sealant to set for twelve hours, and pressure check for five minutes at 276 kPa
(40 lb/in.2).

NOTICE:
Do not use power equipment to run the tap in. They could disturb
the Loctite seal.
5. Run an 17.463 mm (0.6875 in.) bottom tap until it bottoms on the plug to remove excess
Loctite from the bolt hole thread. Run the tap in by hand.
6. Inspect the bolt hole for debris.
TOOL MODIFICATION PROCEDURE
Existing J 22425-B expanders can be reworked to the revised expander configuration by

removing the O-rings and carefully drilling the guide stud holes to a depth of 44.5 mm (1.75 in.).
See Figure 1-280. Use the following procedure:
Figure 1-280 Comparison of Original and Reworked Expander J 22425-B
1. Remove the O-rings from expander J 22425-B.
NOTICE:
Expander J 22425-B is made of hard plastic. To avoid damage,
do not apply excessive pressure during the clamping operation.
2. Loosely clamp the expander on the table of a drill press.
NOTE:
Ensure that the expander is clamped straight.

3. Install a 15.0813 mm (0.59375 in.) drill bit into the drill press chuck.
NOTE:
Ensure that the cutting edges of the drill bit are free from burrs.
4. Set the required depth on the depth gage of the drill press.
5. Insert the drill bit into one of the expander guide stud holes.
6. Operate the drill press at a slow speed (75-100 RPM.) to center the drill in the existing
15.0813 mm (0.59375 in.) hole. Tighten the clamp.
7. Slowly deepen the guide stud hole from 19.1 mm (0.75 in.) - 44.5 mm (1.75 in.).
NOTE:
Drill at 75-100 RPM. to keep from drilling too deep.
8. Insert the drill bit into the other expander guide stud hole.
9. Operate the drill press at a slow speed (75-100 RPM.) to center the drill in the existing
15.0813 mm (0.59375 in.) hole. Tighten the clamp.
10. Slowly deepen the guide stud hole from 19.1 mm (0.75 in.) to 44.5 mm (1.75 in.).
NOTE:
Drill at 75-100 RPM. to keep from drilling too deep.
11. Remove the expander from the drill press and completely wash all cuttings from it with
clean mineral spirits.
PERSONAL INJURY
EYE INJURY

13. With an electric engraving pencil, re-identify the reworked expander to read "J 22425-B
Modified." Cross out the former tool number "J 22425."

WELDING ENGINE CYLINDER HEADS
Welding has been used to salvage cylinder heads for several years. The resultant product,
however, is not generally as good as a new casting. Furthermore, this procedure has caused some
concern because of different ways of understanding precisely what the procedure involves.
The following explains Detroit Diesel Corporation's position on welded cylinder heads:
1. Welding is the process of elevating the original cylinder head casting to approximately
593°C (1100°F) (a temperature that is at least equivalent to stress relieving) and the
addition of alloyed cast iron welding rod to the cracked area while in the molten state.
NOTE:
Low temperature, low voltage welding is considered a cosmetic salvage and should
never be accepted as a structural repair.
2. Mechanical plugging is a salvage procedure that usually results in excessive installation

stresses at the repaired area and should never be confused with or accepted as equivalent
to welding. This procedure should never be used on cylinder heads.
3. If properly performed, welding performed outside the fire circle might salvage the cylinder
head. Service life of a welded cylinder head is not equivalent to a new casting, even if the
fire circle area of the original casting has not been welded.
NOTE:
A cracked casting is usually the result of overheating, and the casting may be damaged
in areas other than the visible crack.
NOTICE:
Do not weld in the fire circle. In order to eliminate future
malfunctions on Detroit Diesel engines, cylinder heads cracked
in the fire-circle should be destroyed.
4. Comparative testing indicates that welding inside the fire circle will result in a service life
less than 50% of a new casting.
NOTICE:
The plug should not be inserted with a press fit. This will cause
stresses that can cause the cylinder head to crack. To avoid
damage use care to ensure that the small water nozzle hole has
been drilled on the same centerline as the previous large water
nozzle hole.
5. Update the large water nozzle to small water nozzle cylinder heads if a plug of the same
material is used and the cylinder head, plug and welding rod are heated to a molten state.
This ensures adequate fusion and complete weld penetration through the thickness of the
firedeck.

NOTICE:
Secondary damage to other engine components could result
from not checking these components.
6. Cylinder heads that have been welded should be checked for acceptability. Refer to section
1.3, refer to section 1.4 and refer to section 1.5. Check for cracks, cylinder head thickness,
warping, camshaft follower clearance, and the press fit of all other components. These
conditions can cause malfunctions of secondary components if these are not corrected. If
any problem cannot be repaired, the part should not be used.
7. Components used with these cylinder heads should also be checked. Unacceptable
components should not be used.
ISOLATE ECM COMPONENTS BEFORE WELDING
Damage may occur to ECM (Electronic Control Module) components if they are not isolated
before welding is performed on the vehicle. To avoid ECM damage, Detroit Diesel recommends
the following precautions:
1. Before welding, completely isolate the DDEC system from the vehicle. Disconnect the
power and ground leads at the battery. Disconnecting the leads at the battery ensures that
the DDEC system will remain isolated, along with any other component susceptible
to welding damage.
2. Instruct personnel involved in vehicle welding that the battery leads must be removed
before they weld on any vehicle.
3. Apply precautionary labels in highly visible areas, such as the battery box cover,
dashboard, sun visor, etc. Labels should read:
NOTICE:
Disconnect battery power and ground leads before welding.
Otherwise, damage to electronic components may occur.
NOTICE:
Use of this precaution assumes an electronic component ground
directly to the battery, as recommended by Detroit Diesel. If
grounded otherwise, disconnecting the battery leads will not
isolate the ECM system from the chassis ground. This could
damage the system while welding.
REUSE CROSSHEAD PISTON ASSEMBLY COMPONENTS
Piston assembly components can, in certain instances, be reused. Undamaged piston pins, crowns
and bushings that meet dimensional limits for used parts can be reused if installed within the same
piston assembly from which they were removed.

Since the bushing takes the shape of the saddle area of the piston dome during engine operation,
the crown, pin and bushing of a crosshead piston assembly should be considered matched. If a
crown is replaced, the piston pin and bushing must also be replaced.
NOTICE:
Installing a used bushing in a new crown can result in uneven
piston pin loading and possible piston pin damage.
If a bushing is replaced, a new pin must also be used. Conversely, if a new pin is required, the
bushing must also be replaced. Before reusing any crosshead piston assembly components, see
wear limits in this section.
A strip of soft plastic squeezed between the crankshaft journal and the connecting rod bearing or
main bearing may be used to measure the bearing clearances.
The strip is a specially molded plastic "wire" manufactured commercially and is available in three
sizes and colors. Type PG-1 (green) has a clearance range of 0.03-0.08 mm (0.001-0.003 in.),
type PR-1 (red) has a range of 0.05-0.15 mm (0.002-0.006 in.) and type PB-1 (blue) has a range
of 0.10-0.23 mm (0.004-0.009 in.).
The plastic strip may be used for checking the bearing clearances as follows:
1. Remove the bearing cap, and wipe the oil from the bearing shell and the crankshaft journal.
NOTE:
Support the weight of the crankshaft with a jack under the counterweight adjoining the
bearing being checked.

2. Place a piece of the plastic strip the full width of the bearing shell, about 6.4 mm (0.25 in.)
off center. See Figure 1-281.
1. Plastic Strip
Figure 1-281 Using Plastic Strip to Measure Bearing-to-Crankshaft Clearance
3. Rotate the crankshaft about 30 degrees from bottom dead center, and install the bearing
cap. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
4. Remove the bearing cap. The flattened plastic strip will be found adhering to either the
bearing shell or the crankshaft.
5. Compare the width of the flattened plastic strip at its widest point with the graduations on
the envelope. The number within the graduation on the envelope indicates the bearing
clearance in thousandths of an inch. Taper may be indicated when one end of the flattened
plastic strip is wider than the other. Measure each end of the plastic. The difference
between the readings is the approximate amount of taper.
PRESSURE TEST CYLINDER HEAD (CYLINDER HEAD DISASSEMBLED)
When overhauling a cylinder head, use Cylinder Head Disassembled pressure test method. When
a cylinder head is removed to assist in other repairs, the cylinder head can be pressure tested using
the method described in Cylinder Head Disassembled and Removed From the Engine :

NOTICE:
If cracks are visible in the head, DO NOT use the pressure test
method.
To seal off water holes in the cylinder head, assemble tool set J 28454, see Figure 1-282.
1. Cylinder Head 6. Short Bridges

2. Hold Down Bolts and Nuts 7. Long End Bridges
3. Air Supply Plate 8. Long Center Bridges
4. End Plates 9. Rubber Stoppers
5. Rod 10. Pressure Checking Tool Set J 28454
Figure 1-282 Cylinder Head Prepared for Pressure Testing using Tool J 28454
1. Install the large rubber stopper on the long center bridge feet.

2. Install the small stoppers on all short bridges.
3. Install the necessary parts loosely on the cylinder head.
NOTICE:
Do not overtighten the hold down bolts. The rubber stopper could
distort and seal both the inner and outer diameter of the water
nozzles. If the outer diameter is sealed, a leak would not be
detected.
4. Tighten the hold down bolts until the stoppers start to distort. A 7 N·m (5 lb·ft) torque is
usually sufficient.
NOTICE:
Do not attach the pressure checking tool while moving the
cylinder head from one location to another. This could result in
permanent damage to the tool.
5. Install the air supply plate.

6. Install scrap or dummy injectors to ensure proper injector tube seating.
NOTE:
Dummy injectors can be made from old injector nuts and bodies. Injector spray tips
are not necessary.
7. Tighten the injector clamp bolts to 27-34 N·m (20-25 lb·ft) torque.
EYE INJURY
8. Apply 276 kPa (40 lb/in.2) air pressure to the water jacket.
NOTE:
Perform this check at room temperature before immersing the cylinder head in the water
tank. Do not perform this check in the hot water tank. The hot tank temperature could
cause the nozzle to seal.

PERSONAL INJURY
9. Immerse the cylinder head in a tank of water treated with Protech® 1650* or equivalent,
previously heated to 82-93°C (180-200°F) for about twenty minutes to thoroughly heat
the head.
10. Observe the water in the tank for bubbles indicating a leak or crack. Check for leaks at
the top and bottom of the injector tubes, oil gallery, exhaust ports, fuel manifolds and at
the top and bottom of the cylinder head.
[a] If air bubbles are visible, replace the cylinder head. Refer to section 1.3.5.
[b] If no leaks are detected, proceed with inspection.
11. Relieve the air pressure, and remove the cylinder head from the water tank.
12. Remove the plates, gaskets and injectors.
EYE INJURY
13. Dry the head with compressed air.
PRESSURE TEST CYLINDER HEAD (CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLED AND

REMOVED FROM ENGINE)
When removing cylinder head to assist in repairs, use Cylinder Head Assembled and Removed
from Engine pressure test method. When a cylinder head is overhauled, the cylinder head can be
pressure tested using the method described in Cylinder Head Disassembled:

NOTICE:
If cracks are visible in the head, DO NOT use the pressure test
method.
To seal off water holes in the cylinder head, assemble tool set J 28454, see Figure 1-283.
1. Cylinder Head 6. Short Bridges

2. Hold Down Bolts and Nuts 7. Long End Bridges
3. Air Supply Plate 8. Long Center Bridges
4. End Plates 9. Rubber Stoppers
5. Rod 10. Pressure Checking Tool Set J 28454
Figure 1-283 Cylinder Head Prepared for Pressure Testing using Tool J 28454
1. Install the large rubber stopper on the long center bridge feet.

2. Install the small stoppers on all short bridges.

3. Install the necessary parts loosely on the cylinder head.
NOTICE:
Do not overtighten the hold down bolts. The rubber stopper could
distort and seal both the inner and outer diameter of the water
nozzles. If the outer diameter is sealed, a leak would not be
detected.
4. Tighten the hold down bolts until the stoppers start to distort. A 7 N·m (5 lb·ft) torque is
usually sufficient.
NOTICE:
Do not attach the pressure checking tool while moving the
cylinder head from one location to another. This could result in
permanent damage to the tool.
5. Install the air supply plate to water jacket opening.
EYE INJURY
6. Apply 276 kPa (40 lb/in.2) air pressure to the water jacket.
7. Check for leaks, using Leak Tek solution or equivalent, at the tops and bottoms of the
injector tubes, oil gallery, exhaust ports, and fuel manifolds.
[a] If air bubbles are visible, replace the cylinder head. Refer to section 1.3.5.
[b] If no leaks are detected, proceed with inspection.
8. Relieve the air pressure slowly.
9. Remove the plates, gaskets and injectors.Check the bottom (fire deck) of the cylinder
head for flatness as follows:
10. Use a heavy, accurate straight-edge and feeler gage, tool J 3172, to check for transverse
warpage at each cylinder head end and between all cylinders.
[a] If the transverse warpage warpage exceeds 0.011 mm (0.0040 in.), the cylinder head
firedeck must be replaced. Refer to section 1.3.5.
[b] If the transverse warpage warpage is less than 0.011 mm (0.0040 in.), proceed with
inspection.

11. Check for longitudinal warpage in six places. See Figure 1-284.
Figure 1-284 Checking Bottom Face of Cylinder Head
[a] If the longitudinal warpage exceeds 0.140 mm (0.0055 in.) on 6V engines or

0.203 mm (0.0080 in.) on 8V and 16V engines, the cylinder head firedeck must be
[b] If the longitudinal warpage warpage is less than 0.140 mm (0.0055 in.) on 6V engines
or less than 0.203 mm (0.0080 in.) on 8V and 16V engines, proceed with inspection.
12. Examine the fire deck for pitting.
[a] If the fire deck is pitted, it must be replaced. Refer to section 1.3.4.
[b] If the fire deck is not pitted, proceed with examination of fire deck.
13. Use the measurements obtained and the limits as a guide to determine the advisability of
reinstalling the head on the engine or of refacing it.
NOTE:
The number of times a cylinder head may be refaced will depend upon the amount of
stock previously removed.
NOTE:
If the cylinder head is to be refaced, remove the injector tubes prior to machining. Any
machining of the fire deck can be done with the water nozzles in place. Do not remove

more metal from the fire deck of any cylinder head below the minimum distance of
89.81 mm (3.536 in.). See Figure 1-285.
Figure 1-285 Minimum Distance Between Top and Bottom Faces of Cylinder
Head
NOTE:
When a cylinder head has been refaced, critical dimensions such as the protrusion
of valve seat inserts, exhaust valves, injector tubes, and injector spray tips must be
checked and corrected. The push rods must also be adjusted to prevent the exhaust
valves from striking the pistons after the cylinder head is reinstalled in the engine. Also,
deburr the water nozzles.
14. Install new injector tubes if the old tubes leaked or the cylinder head was refaced.
NOTE:
If the engine overheated, injector tubes in both cylinder heads must be replaced
15. Inspect the exhaust valves seat inserts and valve guides. Refer to section 1.5.6.2.
INSTALLATION OF NEW SOLID BLOCK PLUGS
Before beginning this operation, always check the face of the block plug to ensure the solid
plug has not been previously installed. When installed, the new solid block plug has a convex
(bowed-out) face. The former cup plug has a concave (recessed) face.
Install the new solid block plug in a former cylinder block as follows:

1. Using a drift or punch and hammer, carefully remove the one-inch diameter cup plugs (if
installed) from the front right bank and left bank of the cylinder block.
2. Clean out the block hole plug openings carefully to eliminate any corrosion, dirt, debris,
or oil film.
3. Apply a liberal coating of Loctite 620 or equivalent anaerobic sealant/retaining compound
to the O.D. of the plugs.
4. Using a 16 mm or 5/8 inch diameter socket as a driver, install the service plugs into the
block until they bottom in the holes. When fully bottomed, plugs will emit a hollow
"thud" when struck.
CYLINDER BLOCK PLUGGING INSTRUCTIONS (6V AND 8V ENGINES)
See Figure 1-286 and see Figure 1-287 for cylinder block plugging instructions.
The identification of pipe plugs and other items for the 6V and 8V engines are listed in Table
1-15, and the standard pipe plug torque specifications are listed in Table 1-18.
NOTE:
Apply Loctite 567 pipe sealer with Teflon or equivalent prior to installation.

Figure 1-286 Cylinder Block Plugging (6V and 8V Engines)


The identification of pipe plugs are listed in Table 1-15, and the standard pipe plug torque
specifications are listed in Table 1-18.
Description Part Number Installation*

Pipe Plugs †
1/8 in. Squared Socket Head Pipe 8924380 -
3/4 in. Squared Socket Head Pipe 8923313 Below Surface
1 in. Squared Socket Head Pipe 8924750 -
Other Plugs
5/16 in. Special Cup 5123862 -
15/16 in. Cup 9428477 To 12 in. Below Surface
1 in. Solid 5139988 -
2-1/2 in. Special 5138646 -
2-3/4 in. Special Cup 5144559 -
1/4 in. x 5/16 in. Special 5154319 -
Other Items
5/16 in. x 7/16 in. Dowel Pin 5103045 Flush With Surface
1/2 in. x 1-3/8 in. Dowel Pin 5151576 To 0.630 in. ± 0.030 in. Projection
3/16 in. x 1/4 in. Dowel Pin 141346 To 0.115 in. ± 0.030 in. Projection
3/8 in. x 1-5/8 in. Stud 5150362 To 1.00 in. ± 0.030 in. Projection
5/16 in. x 1 in. Bolt 8920631 To 1.00 in. ± 0.030 in. Projection
1/4 in. Drain Cock 8924140 -
3/8 in. Drain Cock 118536 -
3/4 in. x 3/8 in. Red Bush 5146913 -
1/4 in. x 1/8 in. Red Bush 8924142 -
Aluminum Plug Gasket 5138659 -
* Prevailed sealant
† Install plugs flush to below top of finished surfaces of block except where specific instructions are given.
Table 1-15 Identification Chart
CYLINDER BLOCK PLUGGING INSTRUCTIONS (12V AND 16V ENGINES)
NOTE:



Description Part Number

1/8 in. Hex Socket Head 5145009
3/4 in. Short Squire Socket Head 5142549
1 in. Socket Head 5111798
Table 1-16 Pipe Plug Identification Chart
Thread Size, NPTF * Torque Specifications, N·m Torque Specifications, lb·ft

1/8 in. 14-16 10-12
1/4 in. 19-22 14-16
3/8 in. 24-30 18-22
1/2 in. 31-37 23-27
3/4 in. 45-50 33-37
1 in. 102-115 75-85
1-1/4 in. 129-143 95-105
1-1/2 in. 150-177 110-130
*Use sealant such as Loctite 567 pipe plug sealant with Teflon (or equivalent) on all uncoated pipe plugs.
Table 1-17 Standard Pipe Plug Torque Specifications
CYLINDER HEAD PLUGGING INSTRUCTIONS
The standard pipe plug torque specifications are listed in Table 1-18.
NOTE:

Figure 1-290 Cylinder Block Plugging

Figure 1-291 Cylinder Block Plugging

The standard pipe plug torque specifications are listed in Table 1-18.
Thread Size, NPTF * Torque Specifications, N·m Torque Specifications, lb·ft

1/8 in. 14-16 10-12
1/4 in. 19-22 14-16
3/8 in. 24-30 18-22
1/2 in. 31-37 23-27
3/4 in. 45-50 33-37
1 in. 102-115 75-85
1-1/4 in. 129-143 95-105
1-1/2 in. 150-177 110-130
*Use sealant such as Loctite 567 pipe plug sealant with Teflon (or equivalent) on all uncoated pipe plugs.
Table 1-18 Standard Pipe Plug Torque Specifications
EXHAUST VALVE ADJUSTMENT
Adjust the exhaust valve bridges as follows:
NOTICE:
Loosening or tightening the locknut with the bridge in place may
result in a bent bridge guide or bent rear valve stem.
1. Place the valve bridge in a vise or bridge holding fixture J 21772, and loosen the locknut
on the bridge adjusting screw.
2. Install the valve bridge on the valve bridge guide.
3. While firmly pressing straight down on the pallet surface of the valve bridge, turn the
adjusting screw clockwise until it just touches the valve stem.

4. Turn the screw an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn clockwise, and finger-tighten the locknut.
See Figure 1-292.
1. Exhaust Valve Bridge 3. Adjusting Screw

2. Locknut 4. Valve Bridge Guide
Figure 1-292 Valve Bridge Adjustment
5. Remove the valve bridge, and place it in a vise.

6. Use a screw driver to keep the adjustment screw from turning.
7. Tighten the locknut to 27-34 N·m (20-25 lb·ft) torque.

USED ENGINE OIL

USED ENGINE OIL

8. Lubricate the valve bridge guide and the valve bridge with engine oil.
9. Install the valve bridge in its original position.
10. Place a 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) feeler gage J 23185 under each end of the valve bridge,
or use a narrow strip cut from 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) feeler stock, to fit in the bridge
locating groove over the inner exhaust valve.
11. Both feeler gages must be tight while pressing down on the valve bridge pallet surface. If
both of the feeler gages are not tight, readjust the adjusting screw.
12. Remove the valve bridge, and install it in its original position.
13. Adjust the remaining valve bridges in the same manner.
14. Swing the rocker arm assembly into position, making sure the valve bridges are properly
positioned on the rear valve stems. This precaution is necessary to prevent valve damage
from dislocated valve bridges.
15. Tighten the rocker arm shaft bracket bolts to the specified torque. For EXCEPTIONS TO
STANDARD FASTENER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS, refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
Installation of Valve Guide Oil Seal
Install the valve guide oil seal, if used, on the valve guide as follows:
1. Place a plastic seal installation cap on the end of the valve stem.
2. If the cap extends more than 1.588 mm (0.0625 in.) below the groove on the valve stem,
remove the cap, and cut off the excess length.

USED ENGINE OIL
3. Lubricate the installation cup with clean engine oil, and carefully start the seal over the
valve stem.
NOTICE:
The tool positions the seal so that it does not bottom out on the
valve guide. If the seal is installed too far and contacts the top
of the guide, it will distort and will not seal.
4. Using tool J 35373, push the seal down slowly until the tool bottoms on the cylinder head.
5. Remove the installation cap.
Reconditioning Exhaust Valve and Valve Seat
To reface a valve or valve seat, perform the following procedure:

1. Use valve seat grinder set J 7040-A and adaptor set J 24566 to reface the valve seat inserts
and head. See Figure 1-293.
1. Cylinder Head 2. Valve Seat
Figure 1-293 Grinding Valve Seat
2. Apply the 31 degree grinding wheel on the valve seat insert.

3. Use the 60 degree grinding wheel to open the throat of the insert.
NOTICE:
When grinding the inserts, do not permit the grinding wheel to
contact the cylinder head. If the grinding wheel contacts the
cylinder head, install a new insert.

FIRE
To avoid injury from fire, keep a fire extinguisher near the
grinding machine in case excessive heat should ignite the
oil.
4. Grind the insert surface with the 15 degree wheel to narrow the seat width.
NOTE:
The 31 degrees insert face may be adjusted relative to the center of the valve face with
the 15 degrees and 60 degrees grinding wheels.
NOTE:
See Figure 1-294 for valve protrusion measurements. If the valve has receded beyond
the specified limits, replace the valve seat insert.
1. Valve 4. Valve Seat Insert

2. Valve 5. Cylinder Head
3. Cylinder Head 6. Valve Seat Insert
Figure 1-294 Exhaust Valve Protrusion Beyond Cylinder Head

5. Dress the grinding wheel with J 24566, when necessary. See Figure 1-295.
Figure 1-295 Grinding Wheel Dressing Tool Set J 24566

USED ENGINE OIL
EYE INJURY
6. Clean the valve seat insert thoroughly with fuel oil. Dry with compressed air.
7. Position the dial indicator J 8165-2. See Figure 1-296.
1. Valve Seat Insert 2. Dial Indicator
Figure 1-296 Checking Relative Concentricity of Valve Seat Insert with

Relation to Valve Guide
8. Rotate the dial indicator to determine valve seat insert concentricity relative to the valve
guide. Total run-out should not exceed 0.05 mm (0.002 in.).

9. If run-out exceeds 0.05 mm (0.002 in.), check for a bent or worn valve guide before
regrinding the insert.
After the valve seat insert has been ground, determine the contact area position between the
valve and valve seat insert as follows:
1. Apply a light coat of Prussian blue, or similar paste, to the valve seat insert.
2. Lower the valve stem into the valve guide.
3. Bounce the valve on the insert. Do not rotate.
NOTE:
Do not use valve lapping compounds.
4. Observe the contact area on the valve face. The area of contact should be the center of
the valve face.
[a] If the contact area is not at the center of the valve face, replace the valve and valve
seat.
[b] If the contact area is centered, reuse the valve and valve seat.
REGRINDING CRANKSHAFT JOURNALS
Regrind the crankshaft journals as follows:

1. Confirm the dimensional requirements for journal axial profile, radial chatter, and oil hole
washout with Gould 12000 Surface Analyzer, or equivalent.
NOTE:
Remanufactured crankshafts are available through the Detroit Diesel reliabilt® system
and are made to the same quality specifications required of new original equipment
crankshafts.
NOTE:
Remanufactured crankshafts procured from other than Detroit Diesel reliabilt sources
must conform to Detroit Diesel specifications.
2. Polish according to Gould 1200, or equivalent, measurements.

3. All used crankshafts that have not been reground must meet the dimensional specifications
listed in Table 1-19 or be reground to reliabilt specifications.
Connecting Rod Main Bearing

Bearing Size
Journal Diameter Journal Diameter
76.16 mm / 76.21 mm 114.26 mm / 114.31
Standard
(2.9985 in. / 3.0002 in.) (4.4985 in. / 4.5002 in.)
*75.91 mm / 75.95 mm *114.01 mm / 114.10
0.010 in.
(2.9885 in. / 2.9902 in.) (4.4885 in. / 4.4902 in.)
*75.65 mm / 75.70 mm *113.75 mm / 113.80
0.020 in.
(2.9785 in. / 2.9802 in.) (4.4785 in. / 4.4802 in.)
*75.40 mm / 75.65 mm *113.50 mm / 113.54
0.030 in.
(2.9685 in. / 2.9782 in.) (4.4685 in. / 4.4702 in.)
* Dimensions of reground crankshaft
Table 1-19 Dimensional Specifications
NOTE:
Remanufactured crankshafts should be stamped with the appropriate undersize
dimensions for identification.
NOTE:
Crankshaft main bearing journals and/or connecting rod journals that exhibit discoloration
from excessive overheating are not acceptable for rework.
4. If one or more main or connecting rod journals require grinding, grind all main journals or
all connecting rod journals to the same required size listed in Table 1-19.
NOTE:
In addition to standard size crankshaft thrust washers, 0.13 mm and 0.25 mm (0.005 in.
and 0.010 in.) oversized thrust washers are available. The dimensions listed in Table
1-20 apply to crankshafts with remanufactured thrust surfaces.
Thrust Washer Thrust Washer

Nominal Size
Thickness (Minimum) Thickness (Maximum)
Standard 0.1190 in. 0.1220 in.
0.005 in. Oversize 0.1240 in. 0.1270 in.
0.010 in. Oversize 0.1290 in. 0.1320 in.
REPLACING FORMER DESIGN WATER NOZZLES
If the engine overheated, the former water nozzles must be replaced in both cylinder heads.
If necessary, replace the nozzles as follows:
1. Remove the old nozzles.

NOTICE:
The intermediate nozzle holes are reamed and must not be
cleaned with a drill. This could result in water leaking into the
lubricating oil. Use a soft bristle brush to clean the intermediate
water nozzle holes.
2. Ensure the water inlet ports are clean and free of scale.
3. Install former water nozzles with installing tool J 24857-A. The current water nozzle
should be pressed into place.
4. Position of the nozzles in the cylinder head.
NOTE:
The former nozzles must be recessed 0.10 mm (0.004 in.) to flush with the bottom
face of the cylinder head and the sealing area of the cylinder head around the nozzles
must be flat within 0.05 mm (0.002 in.). The current water nozzles must be 0.38 mm
(0.015 in.) recessed to flush.
FLYWHEEL HOUSING CONCENTRICITY AND BOLTING FLANGE

FACE RUNOUT
Inspect the flywheel housing concentricity and bolting flange face run-out with tool set J 9737-D,
as follows:

1. Thread the base post J 9737-D tightly into one of the tapped holes in the flywheel.
Assemble the dial indicators on the base post with the attaching parts provided in the
tool set. See Figure 1-297.
1. Flywheel Housing 3. Flywheel

2. Dial Indicator
Figure 1-297 Checking Flywheel Housing Concentricity
2. Position the dial indicators straight and square with the flywheel housing bell face and
inside bore of the bell. Ensure each indicator has adequate travel in each direction.
3. If the flywheel extends beyond the flywheel housing bell, the bore and face must be
checked separately. Use the special adaptor in the tool set to check the housing bore.
4. Pry the crankshaft toward one end of the block to ensure that end play is in one direction
only.
5. Adjust each dial indicator to read zero at the twelve o'clock position.

PERSONAL INJURY
NOTICE:
The barring operation should ALWAYS be performed in a
clockwise direction. The bolt must not be loosened. Serious
engine damage may result if the vibration damper or pulley is
not securely fastened to the crankshaft.
NOTE:
The hex head of the front crankshaft bolt may be used to turn the crankshaft.
6. Rotate the crankshaft one full revolution, recording readings at 90 degree intervals (4
readings each for the bore and the bolting flange face).
7. On "bossed" flywheel housings, position the dial indicators at a location where obstruction
poses no problem.
8. To ensure accuracy, stop and remove the wrench or cranking bar before recording each
reading.
9. Record the readings and interpret as listed in Table 1-21 and listed in Table 1-22:
3:00 9:00 Examples of Good Examples of Bad

+0.002 in. +0.014 in. +0.002 in. +0.016 in.
+ +
Difference = 0.012 in. Difference = 0.014 in.
-0.002 in. -0.014 in. -0.002 in. -0.016 in.
- -
Difference = -0.012 in. Difference = -0.014 in.
Table 1-21 Bore/Face Run-Out Values

+0.002 in. -0.010 in. +0.002 in. -0.012 in.
+ -
Total = 0.012 in. Total = 0.014 in.
-0.002 in. +0.010 in. -0.002 in. +0.012 in.
- +
Check bore face run-out as follows:

Check the value at six o'clock (6:00) position. This value cannot exceed ± 0.33 mm
(0.013 in.).

Check the values at three o'clock (3:00) and nine o'clock (9:00) positions.
[a] Both readings "+" or "-". The difference must not exceed 0.33 mm (0.013 in.).
[b] Both readings different, "+/-" or "-/+." The total of dimensions must not exceed
0.33 mm (0.013 in.).
Check the bore diameter as follows:
Verification of bore diameter is required when 3:00 and 9:00 o'clock readings are both
"+" or both "-". The total of dimensions must not exceed 0.76 mm (0.030 in.) as
listed in Table 1-23.

+0.014 in. +0.015 in. +0.014 in. +0.017 in.
+ +
-0.014 in. -0.015 in. -0.014 in. -0.017 in.
- -
Total = -0.029 in. Total = -0.031 in.
10. If the bore or face run-out exceeds the maximum limits, remove the flywheel housing, and
check for dirt or foreign material, such as old gasket material, between the end plate and
flywheel housing or between the end plate and the cylinder block. If the bore diameter still
exceeds limits, replace the flywheel housing.
11. Install the flywheel housing and the flywheel.
12. Tighten the attaching bolts in the proper sequence to the specified torque.
13. Recheck the bore and face run-out and the bore diameter. If necessary, replace the
flywheel housing.
On 16V reinforced flywheel housings, check the flywheel housing concentricity and bolting
flange face run-out with tool J 9737-D as follows:
1. Thread the base post J 9737-D tightly into one of the tapped holes in the flywheel.
2. Assemble the dial indicators on the base post with the attaching parts provided in the
tool set.
3. Position the dial indicators straight and square with the flywheel housing and ensure each
indicator has adequate travel in each direction.
NOTE:
If the flywheel extends beyond the flywheel housing bell, the housing bore and face
must be checked separately. Use the special adaptor in tool set J 9737-D to check
the housing bore.
4. Pry and hold the crankshaft in one direction to ensure end play is only in one direction.
5. Adjust each dial indicator to read zero at the twelve o'clock position.
6. Rotate the crankshaft one full revolution, taking readings at 45 degree intervals (8 readings
each of the flywheel housing bore and the bolting face).

7. Stop and remove the wrench or cranking bar before recording each reading to ensure
accuracy. The maximum total indicator reading must not exceed 0.33 mm (0.013 in.)
for either the bore or face.
8. If the run-out exceeds the maximum limits, remove the flywheel and the flywheel housing.
9. Check for dirt or foreign material, such as old gasket material, between the end plate,
flywheel housing, and new gasket (and between the end plate and the cylinder block).
10. Install the flywheel housing and secure the attaching bolts in the proper sequence and to
the specified torque. Recheck the run-out.
11. If necessary, replace the flywheel housing.
PISTON-TO-LINER CLEARANCE
Measure clearance as follows:

1. Measure the piston skirt diameter lengthwise and crosswise of the piston pin bore.
NOTE:
Measurements should be taken at room temperature 70°F or (21°C). Refer to section
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for specifications.
NOTE:
The piston-to-liner clearance, with new parts, will vary with the particular piston diameter.
Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION. A maximum clearance of 0.30 mm
(0.012 in.) is allowable with used parts. Specifications for the cross-head piston and
rings are listed in Table 1-34. Current specifications may not be available at the time of
publication. Refer to your local distributor, or Detroit Diesel Parts Technical for additional
information.

2. With the cylinder liner installed in the cylinder block, hold the piston skirt upside down in
the liner and check the clearance in four places 90 degrees apart. See Figure 1-298.
1. Cylinder Block 2. Cylinder Liner
Figure 1-298 Measuring Piston-to-Liner with Tension Scale J 8129 (from set
J 5438-01)
3. Use feeler gage J 8129 (from set J 5438-01) to check the clearance. The spring scale,
attached to the proper feeler gage, is used to measure the force required to withdraw
the feeler gage in pounds.
NOTE:
Select a feeler gage with a thickness that will require a pull of six pounds to remove. The
clearance will be 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) greater than the thickness of the feeler gage used,
i.e., a 0.10 mm (0.004 in.) feeler gage will indicate a clearance of 0.13 mm (0.005 in.)
when it is withdrawn with a pull of six pounds. The feeler gage must be perfectly flat and
free of nicks and bends.

4. If any bind occurs between the piston and the liner, examine the piston and liner for burrs.
[a] If burred, remove burrs with a fine hone (a flat one is preferable), and recheck the
clearance.
[b] If not burred, continue checking clearance.
NOTE:
New piston rings must be installed whenever a piston is removed, regardless of whether
a new or used piston or cylinder liner is installed.
NOTE:
5. Insert one ring at a time inside the cylinder liner and far enough down to be within the
normal area of ring travel.
6. Use a piston skirt to push the ring down to ensure it is parallel with the top of the liner.

7. Measure the ring gap with a feeler gage. See Figure 1-299.
NOTE:
Listed in Table 1-34 are ring gap specifications. Current specifications may not be
available at the time of publication. Refer to your local distributor, or Detroit Diesel Parts
Technical for additional information.
1. Cylinder Block 2. Piston Ring
Figure 1-299 Measuring Piston Ring Gap
8. If the gap on a compression ring is insufficient, file or stone both ends of the ring so the
cutting action is from the outer surface to the inner surface.
NOTE:
This will prevent the chrome plate on the ring from chipping or peeling. The ring ends
must remain square and the chamfer on the outer edge must be approximately 0.38 mm
(0.015 in.).

9. Check the ring side clearance. See Figure 1-300. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION and listed in Table 1-34 for ring side clearances.
NOTE:
[a] If the ring side clearance is not within specification, replace.

[b] If the ring side clearance is within specification, install the piston and piston ring.
1. Piston Assembly 2. Piston Ring
Figure 1-300 Measuring Piston Side Clearance
Hone The Cylinder Liner
Hone a used cylinder liner as follows:

NOTICE:
Do not modify the surface finish of a new service liner. Since the
liner is properly finished at the factory, any change will adversely
affect piston ring seating.
Hone a used cylinder liner to break glaze resulting from piston ring rubbing after long operation
periods and to remove the ridge formed at the top by the piston ring travel. See Figure 1-301.
1. Ridge
Figure 1-301 Cylinder Liner Ridge to Wear
1. Place the liner in a fixture (a scrap cylinder block makes an excellent honing fixture).
NOTE:
If it is necessary to hone a liner in the cylinder block that is to be used in building up the
engine, the engine must be dismantled and, after honing, the cylinder block and other
parts must be thoroughly cleaned to ensure that all abrasive material is removed.
2. Work the hone J 5902-01, equipped with 120 grit stones J 5902-14 (from set J 5902-01),
up and down (at 300-400 RPM.) the full length of the liner a few times in a criss-cross
pattern to produce hone marks on a 45 degree axis.

USED ENGINE OIL

3. Remove the liner from the fixture, and clean thoroughly with fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
4. Dry the liner with compressed air.

5. Inspect the entire surface for burrs.
NOTE:
After honing, the liner must conform to the same limits on taper and out-of-round as
a new liner and the piston-to-liner clearance must be within the specified limits. For
specifications listed in Table 1-37.
SPECIFICATIONS
Specifications, clearances and wear limits are listed below. It should be specifically noted that the
clearances apply only when all new parts are used at the point where the various specifications
apply. This also applies to references within the text of the manual. The column entitled "Limits,"
in the following Tables, lists the amount of wear or increase of clearance that can be tolerated
in used engine parts and still ensure satisfactory performance. It should be emphasized that the
values given as "Limits" must be qualified by the judgment of personnel responsible for installing
new parts. These wear limits are, in general, listed only for the parts more frequently replaced
in engine overhaul work.
Table of Specifications, New Part Clearances and Wear Limits
These limits also apply to oversize and undersize parts.

Refer to the following Tables to obtain specifications, new clearances, and wear limits for the
Series 92 Engine:
1. Cylinder block is listed in Table 1-24.
2. Cylinder heads are listed in Table 1-25.
3. Rocker arms and shafts are listed in Table 1-26.
4. Cam followers are listed in Table 1-27.

5. Exhaust valve seat inserts are listed in Table 1-28.
6. Exhaust valves are listed in Table 1-29.
7. Valve guides are listed in Table 1-30.
8. Valve bridge guides are listed in Table 1-31.
9. Main bearings are listed in Table 1-32.
10. Crankshaft is listed in Table 1-33.
11. Cross-head piston and rings are listed in Table 1-34.
12. Cross-head piston pins are listed in Table 1-35.
13. Connecting rod bearings are listed in Table 1-36.
14. Cylinder liners are listed in Table 1-37.
15. Camshafts are listed in Table 1-38.
16. Camshaft bearings are listed in Table 1-39.
17. Camshaft gears are listed in Table 1-40.
18. Idler gear is listed in Table 1-41.
19. Crankshaft timing gear is listed in Table 1-42.
20. Blower drive step-up gear (non-turbo 2.6:1) is listed in Table 1-43.
21. Blower drive step-up gear (turbo 2.1:1) is listed in Table 1-44.
22. Blower drive step-up gear is listed in Table 1-45.
23. Left-bank accessory drive gear is listed in Table 1-46.

Specifications for the cylinder block are listed in Table 1-24.
Engine Part
Minimum Maximum Limits
(Standard Size, New)
Block Bore:
136.13 mm 136.19 mm 136.23 mm
Diameter (Upper Pilot)-(A)
(5.3595 in.) (5.3620 in.) (5.3635 in.)
Diameter (Lower Two Seal 135.55 mm 135.60 mm 135.62 mm
Ring Lands)-(B) (5.3365 in.) (5.3385 in.) (5.3395 in.)
Diameter 132.49 mm 132.52 mm 132.55 mm
(Water Jacket)-(C) (5.2160 in.) (5.2175 in.) (5.2185 in.)
Diameter 132.49 mm 132.54 mm 132.55 mm
(Water Jacket)-(D) (5.2160 in.) (5.2180 in.) (5.2185 in.)
0.03 mm
Out-of-Round - -
(0.0010 in.)
0.03 mm
Taper (Lower Bore) - -
(0.0010 in.)
Cylinder Liner
Counterbore:
141.10 mm 141.22 mm
Diameter -
(5.5550 in.) (5.5600 in.)
12.08 mm 12.12 mm
Depth (Standard) -
(0.4755 in.) (0.4770 in.)
12.46 mm 12.50 mm
Depth (.015 in. Deeper) -
(0.4905 in.) (0.4920 in.)
Main Bearing Bore:
Inside Diameter 122.22 mm 122.25 mm
-
(Vertical Axis) (4.8120 in.) (4.8130 in.)
Saddle-to-Main 0.05 mm
- -
Bearing Cap (0.0020 in.)
Top Surface of Block:
Centerline of Main Bearing 87.39 mm 411.20 mm
-
Bore to Top of Block (16.1840 in.) (16.1890 in.)
0.08 mm
Flatness-Transverse (All) - -
(0.0030 in.)
Flatness-Longitudinal 0.15 mm
- -
(6V and 12V) (0.0060 in.)
- -
(8V and 16V) (0.0070 in.)
Depth of Counterbores
(Top Surface):
Cylinder Head Seal 2.46 mm 2.72 mm
-
Strip Groove (0.0970 in.) (0.1070 in.)
Combination Water and 2.13 mm 2.26 mm
-
Oil Holes (0.0840 in.) (0.0890 in.)
Table 1-24 Cylinder Block

Specifications for the cylinder head are listed in Table 1-25.
Engine Part (Standard

Size, New)
0.10 mm
Flatness-Transverse - -
(0.0040 in.)
- -
(6V and 12V) (0.0055 in.)
- -
(8V and 16V) (0.0080 in.)
Surface Finish
(with 1 mm Diameter - 90AA -
Stylus)
Distance Between Top 90.32 mm 90.63 mm 89.81 mm
Deck and Firedeck (3.5560 in.) (3.5680 in.) (3.5360 in.)
0.10 mm
Water Nozzles (Former) (0.0040 in. Flush -
Recessed)
0.38 mm
Water Nozzles (Current) (0.0150 in. Flush -
Recessed)
26.97 mm 27.00 mm 27.05 mm
Cam Follower Bores
(1.0620 in.) (1.0630 in.) (1.0650 in.)
Exhaust Valve Insert
Counterbore:
36.58 mm 36.60 mm
Diameter -
(1.4400 in.) (1.4410 in.)
8.62 mm 8.90 mm
Depth -
(0.3395 in.) (0.3505 in.)
Table 1-25 Cylinder Heads
Specifications for the rocker arms and shafts are listed in Table 1-26.

Size, New)
22.19 mm 22.20 mm
Rocker Shaft Diameter -
(0.8735 in.) (0.8740 in.)
Rocker Arm Bushing 22.23 mm 22.25 mm
-
Diameter (Inside) (0.8750 in.) (0.8760 in.)
Clearance 0.03 mm 0.06 mm 0.10 mm
(Shaft-to-Bushing) (0.0010 in.) (0.0025 in.) (0.0040 in.)
Table 1-26 Rocker Arms and Shafts

Specifications for the cam followers are listed in Table 1-27.

Size, New)
26.92 mm 26.95 mm
Cam Follower Diameter -
(1.0600 in.) (1.0610 in.)
Clearance 0.03 mm 0.08 mm 0.15 mm
Follower-to-Head (0.0010 in.) (0.0030 in.) (0.0060 in.)
Rollers and Pins:
0.03 mm 0.05 mm 0.25 mm
Clearance Pin-to-Bushing
(0.0013 in.) (0.0021 in.) (0.010 in. Horizontal)
Side Clearance 0.28 mm 0.58 mm 0.58 mm
Roller-to-Follower (0.0110 in.) (0.0230 in.) (0.0230 in.)
Table 1-27 Cam Followers
Specifications for the exhaust valve seat inserts are listed in Table 1-28.

Size, New)
36.61 mm 3.46 mm
Outside Diameter -
(1.4415 in.) (1.4425 in.)
1.19 mm 1.96 mm
Seat Width -
(0.0470 in.) (0.0770 in.)
0.05 mm 0.05 mm
Valve Seat Run-out -
(0.0020 in.) (0.0020 in.)
Table 1-28 Exhaust Valve Seat Inserts
Specifications for the exhaust valves are listed in Table 1-29.

Size, New)
7.87 mm 7.89 mm 7.85 mm
Stem Diameter
(0.3100 in.) (0.3108 in.) (0.3090 in.)
Valve Head-to-Cylinder 0.58 mm 0.15 mm 0.97 mm
Head 30 Degrees (0.023 in. Recess) (0.006 Protrude) (0.038 in.)
Table 1-29 Exhaust Valves

Specifications for the valve guides are listed in Table 1-30.

Size, New)
Height Above Cylinder 17.02 mm 18.03 mm
-
Head (0.6700 in.) (0.7100 in.)
7.94 mm 7.87 mm 7.98 mm
Diameter-Inside
(0.3125 in.) (0.3135 in.) (0.3140 in.)
0.04 mm 0.89 mm 0.13 mm
Clearance Valve-to-Guide
(0.0017 in.) (0.0035 in.) (0.0050 in.)
Table 1-30 Valve Guides
Specifications for the valve bridge guides are listed in Table 1-31.

Size, New)
Height Above Cylinder 51.82 mm 51.82 mm
-
Head (2.0400 in.) (2.0400 in.)
Table 1-31 Valve Bridge Guides
Specifications for the main bearings are listed in Table 1-32.

Size, New)
-
Bearing-to-Journal 0.04 mm 0.14 mm 0.14 mm
Clearance (0.0014 in.) (0.0055 in.) (0.0055 in.)
Bearing Thickness 90 3.92 mm 3.94 mm
-
Degrees From Parting Line (0.1545 in.) (0.1552 in.)
Table 1-32 Main Bearings
Specifications for the crankshaft are listed in Table 1-33.

Size, New)
Journal Diameter-Main 114.26 mm 114.31 mm
-
Bearing (4.4985 in.) (4.5002 in.)
Journal Diameter- 76.16 mm 76.21 mm
-
Connecting Rod Bearing (2.9985 in.) (3.0002 in.)
0.01 mm 0.01 mm
Journal Out-of -Round -
(0.0005 in.) (0.0005 in.)
Journal Taper:
0.01 mm 0.01 mm
Main Bearing -
(0.0004 in.) (0.0004 in.)

Connecting Rod 0.02 mm

- -
(Full Length) (0.0008 in.)
Connecting Rod 0.01 mm
- -
(Half Length) (0.0004 in.)
*Run-out on
Journals-Total Indicator
Reading: 6V (Mounted
on Number 1 and 4
Journals):
At Number 2 and Number 0.05 mm
- -
3 Journals (0.0020 in.)
8V (Mounted on Number
1 and 5 Journals):
- -
0.10 mm
At Number 3 Journal - -
(0.0040 in.)
1 and 8 Journals):
- -
- -
- -
1 and 10 Journals):
- -
- -
- -
- -
3.02 mm 3.10 mm
Thrust Washer Thickness -
(0.1190 in.) (0.1220 in.)
End Play (End Thrust 0.10 mm 0.28 mm 0.46 mm
Clearance) (0.0040 in.) (0.0110 in.) (0.0180 in.)
* Run-out tolerance given for guidance when regrinding crankshaft. When run-out on adjacent journals is in opposite direction, the
sum must not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003 in.) total indicator reading. When run-out on adjacent journals is in the same direction, the
difference must not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003 in.) total indicator reading. When high spots of run-out on adjacent journals are at right
angles to each other, the sum must not exceed 0.10 mm (0.004 in.) total indicator reading, or 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) on each journal.
Table 1-33 Crankshaft
Specifications for the cross-head piston and rings are listed in Table 1-34.

Size, New)
Piston Crown
Saddle-to-Crown
Distance:
NA Piston (19:1 68.64 mm 68.82 mm
-
Compression Ratio) (2.7025 in.) (2.7095 in.)
T Piston (17:1 68.64 mm 68.82 mm
-
Compression Ratio) (2.7025 in.) (2.7095 in.)
Diameter:
122.18 mm 122.26 mm
At Top -
(4.8104 in.) (4.8134 in.)
Below Both Compression 122.61 mm 122.69 mm
-
Rings (4.8273 in.) (4.8303 in.)
Above and Below Seal 113.41 mm 113.67 mm
-
Ring Groove (4.4650 in.) (4.4750 in.)
Above and Below Bearing 82.19 mm 82.22 mm
-
Saddle (3.2360 in.) (3.2370 in.)
Compression Rings:
0.64 mm 1.14 mm 1.52 mm
Gap (Top-Fire Ring)
(0.0250 in.) (0.0450 in.) (0.0600 in.)
0.64 mm 1.14 mm 1.52 mm
Gap (Number 2 and 3)
(0.0250 in.) (0.0450 in.) (0.0600 in.)
Clearance Ring-to-
Groove:
0.03 mm 0.13 mm 0.18 mm
* Top (Keystone Fire Ring)
(0.0010 in.) (0.0050 in.) (0.0070 in.)
Number 2 (Rectangular 0.25 mm 0.33 mm 0.56 mm
Section) (0.0100 in.) (0.0130 in.) (0.0220 in.)
Number 3 (Rectangular 0.10 mm 0.18 mm 0.33 mm
Section) (0.0040 in.) (0.0070 in.) (0.0130 in.)
Seal Ring:
0.05 mm 0.43 mm
Gap (In Skirt Counterbore) -
(0.0020 in.) (0.0170 in.)
0.01 mm 0.08 mm 0.10 mm
Clearance
(0.0005 in.) (0.0030 in.) (0.0040 in.)
Piston Skirt:
122.77 mm 122.84 mm
† Diameter (Includes Tin) -
(4.8333 in.) (4.8361 in.)
0.07 mm 0.21 mm 0.30 mm
Clearance Skirt-to-Liner
(0.0029 in.) (0.0082 in.) (0.0120 in.)
114.30 mm 114.38 mm
Seal Ring Bore -
(4.5000 in.) (4.5030 in.)
38.16 mm 38.19 mm 38.20 mm
Piston Pin Bore
(1.5025 in.) (1.5035 in.) (1.5040 in.)
Oil Control Rings:
Gap (Two Rings in Lower 0.25 mm 0.64 mm 1.09 mm
Groove) (0.0100 in.) (0.0250 in.) (0.0430 in.)


Size, New)
Gap (Two Rings in Upper 0.18 mm 0.43 mm 0.89 mm
Groove-Turbo) (0.0070 in.) (0.0170 in.) (0.0350 in.)
Gap (Two Rings in Upper 0.25 mm 0.64 mm 1.09 mm
Groove-Non-Turbo) (0.0100 in.) (0.0250 in.) (0.0430 in.)
0.04 mm 0.14 mm 0.20 mm
Clearance
(0.0015 in.) (0.0055 in.) (0.0080 in.)
Note: Current specifications may not be available at the time of publication. Refer to your local distributor, or Detroit Diesel
Parts Technical for additional information.
* Measured with keystone fire ring flush with outside diameter of piston crown.
† Diameter above and below the piston pin may be 122.63 mm (4.8280 in.)
Table 1-34 Cross-Head Piston and Rings
Specifications for the cross-head piston pins are listed in Table 1-35.

Size, New)
38.09 mm 38.10 mm 38.05 mm
Diameter
(1.4996 in.) (1.5000 in.) (1.4980 in.)
Slipper Bearing
(Bushing):
2.21 mm 2.24 mm 2.18 mm
Thickness at Center
(0.0870 in.) (0.0880 in.) (0.0860 in.)
Clearance (Edge of
0.01 mm 0.27 mm 0.30 mm
Bushing-to-Groove in
(0.0005 in.) (0.0105 in.) (0.0120 in.)
Piston)
Table 1-35 Cross-Head Piston Pins
Specifications for the connecting rod bearings are listed in Table 1-36.

Size, New)
-
Bearing-to-Journal 0.02 mm 0.11 mm 0.11 mm
Bearing Thickness 90 3.15 mm 3.16 mm
-
Degrees From Parting Line (0.1240 in.) (0.1245 in.)
Table 1-36 Connecting Rod Bearings

Specifications for the cylinder liners are listed in Table 1-37.

Size, New)
Outside Diameter 136.09 mm 136.13 mm
-
(Upper Surface) (5.3577 in.) (5.3595 in.)
-
(Seal Ring Surface) (5.3347 in.) (5.3365 in.)
-
(Lower Surface) (5.2142 in.) (5.2160 in.)
122.91 mm 122.97 mm
Inside Diameter -
(4.8390 in.) (4.8415 in.)
Out-of-Round 0.05 mm 0.06 mm
-
Inside Diameter (0.0020 in.) (0.0025 in.)
0.04 mm 0.06 mm
Taper Inside Diameter -
(0.0015 in.) (0.0025 in.)
Depth of Flange BELOW 1.06 mm 1.07 mm
-
Block (0.0418 in.) (0.0482 in.)
Variation in Depth Between 0.04 mm
- -
Adjacent Liners (0.0015 in.)
Table 1-37 Cylinder Liners
Specifications for the camshafts are listed in Table 1-38.

Size, New)
Diameter (at Bearing
Journals):
Front and Rear (6V and 38.02 mm 38.04 mm
-
12V engines) (1.4970 in.) (1.4975 in.)
Front and Rear (8V and 38.00 mm 38.01 mm
-
16V engines) (1.4960 in.) (1.4965 in.)
38.05 mm 38.06 mm
Center and Intermediate -
(1.4980 in.) (1.4985 in.)
Run-out at Center Bearing
0.05 mm
(When Mounted on End - -
(0.0020 in.)
Bearings)
0.08 mm 0.38 mm 0.46 mm
End Thrust
(0.0030 in.) (0.0150 in.) (0.0180 in.)
3.02 mm 3.10 mm
(0.1190 in.) (0.1220 in.)
Table 1-38 Camshafts

Specifications for the camshaft bearings are listed in Table 1-39.

Size, New)
Inside Diameter:
38.10 mm 38.13 mm
Front and Rear -
(1.5000 in.) (1.5010 in.)
38.13 mm 38.18 mm
(1.5010 in.) (1.5030 in.)
Clearance Bearing-
to-Shaft:
Front and Rear (6V, 12V 0.06 mm 0.10 mm 0.15 mm
and 16V engines) (0.0025 in.) (0.0040 in.) (0.0060 in.)
Front and Rear (8V 0.09 mm 0.13 mm 0.15 mm
engines) (0.0035 in.) (0.0050 in.) (0.0060 in.)
0.06 mm 0.13 mm 0.23 mm
Center and Intermediate
(0.0025 in.) (0.0050 in.) (0.0090 in.)
Outside Diameter:
55.56 mm 11.82 mm
Front and Rear -
(2.1875 in.) (2.1880 in.)
55.47 mm 55.52 mm
(2.1840 in.) (2.1860 in.)
Diameter of Cylinder
54.69 mm (2.1889 in.) -
Block Bore
Clearance Bearings-
to-Block:
0.01 mm 0.04 mm
Front and Rear -
(0.0005 in. Press) (0.0014 in. Loose)
0.04 mm 0.11 mm
Intermediate -
(0.0015 in.) (0.0045 in.)
Table 1-39 Camshaft Bearings
Specifications for the camshaft gears are listed in Table 1-40.

Size, New)
30.14 mm 2.85 mm
Inside Diameter -
(1.1865 in.) (1.1875 in.)
0.04 mm
Clearance Gear-to-Shaft - -
(0.0015 in. Press)
0.05 mm 0.20 mm 0.25 mm
Backlash
(.00020 in.) (0.0080 in.) (0.0100 in.)
Table 1-40 Camshaft Gears

Specifications for the idler gears are listed in Table 1-41.

Size, New)
0.05 mm 0.20 mm 0.25 mm
Backlash
(0.0020 in.) (0.0080 in.) (0.0100 in.)
Pre-Load-Variation on
1/2 lb. 4 lb. -
Pull 2 lbs. 11 oz.
Table 1-41 Idler Gear
Specifications for the crankshaft timing gears are listed in Table 1-42.

Size, New)
133.32 mm 133.38 mm
Inside Diameter -
(5.2490 in.) (5.2510 in.)
0.03 mm 0.03 mm
Clearance Gear-to-Shaft -
(0.001 in. Press) (0.001 in. Loose)
0.05 mm 0.20 mm 0.25 mm
Backlash
(0.0020 in.) (0.0080 in.) (0.0100 in.)
Table 1-42 Crankshaft Timing Gears
Specifications for the blower drive step-up gear (non-turbo 2.6:1) are listed in Table 1-43.

Size, New)
Inside Diameter (Support 46.92 mm 47.70 mm
-
Bushing) (1.8770 in.) (1.8780 in.)
47.61 mm 47.64 mm
Hub Diameter (AT Bearing) -
(1.8745 in.) (1.8755 in.)
Hub-to-Support Bushing 0.04 mm 0.09 mm
-
Clearance (0.0015 in.) (0.0035 in.)
0.64 mm 5.33 mm
(0.1190 in.) (0.1210 in.)
0.08 mm 17.78 mm 0.48 mm
End Thrust
(0.0030 in.) (0.0170 in.) (0.0190 in.)
Table 1-43 Blower Drive Step-Up Gear (Non-Turbo 2.6:1 Ratio)

Specifications for the blower drive step-up gear (turbo 2.1:1) are listed in Table 1-44.

Size, New)
0.05 mm 0.20 mm 0.25 mm
Backlash
(0.0020 in.) (0.0080 in.) (0.0100 in.)
Inside Diameter (Support 40.65 mm 40.65 mm
-
Bushing) (1.6260 in.) (1.6260 in.)
41.25 mm 41.27 mm
Hub Diameter (at Bearing) -
(1.6240 in.) (1.6250 in.)
Hub-to-Support Bushing 0.03 mm 0.06 mm 0.13 mm
5.97 mm 6.22 mm
(0.2350 in.) (0.2450 in.)
1.50 mm 1.55 mm
Thrust Bearing Thickness -
(0.0590 in.) (0.0610 in.)
0.13 mm 0.25 mm 0.30 mm
End Thrust
(0.0050 in.) (0.0100 in.) (0.0120 in.)
Table 1-44 Blower Drive Gear (Turbo 2.1:1 Ratio)
Specifications for the blower drive step-up gear are listed in Table 1-45.

Size, New)
0.05 mm 0.20 mm 0.25 mm
Backlash
(0.0020 in.) (0.0080 in.) (0.0100 in.)
Table 1-45 Blower Drive Step-Up Gear

Specifications for the left-bank accessory drive gear are listed in Table 1-46.

Size, New)
0.05 mm 0.20 mm 0.25 mm
Backlash
(0.0020 in.) (0.0080 in.) (0.0100 in.)
-
(Support Bushing) (1.6260 in.) (1.6265 in.)
Hub Diameter 41.25 mm 41.27 mm
-
(at Bearing) (1.6240 in.) (1.6250 in.)
Hub-to-Support 0.25 mm 0.06 mm 0.13 mm
Bushing Clearance (0.0010 in.) (0.0025 in.) (0.0050 in.)
5.97 mm 0.59 mm
(0.2350 in.) (0.2450 in.)
1.50 mm 1.55 mm
Thrust Bearing Thickness -
(0.0590 in.) (0.0610 in.)
0.13 mm 0.25 mm 0.30 mm
End Thrust
(0.0050 in.) (0.0100 in.) (0.0120 in.)
Table 1-46 Left-Bank Accessory Drive Gear (2.1:1 Ratio)
EXCEPTIONS TO STANDARD FASTENER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Listed in Table 1-47 are exceptions to standard fastener torque specifications supporting the
Series 92 Engines.
Section Fastener Size N·m lb·ft lb·in

Refer to section 1.4.8 Cam Follower
1/4 in.-20 16-20 12-15 -
Refer to step 16 Guide Bolt
Refer to section 1.3.2 Injector Control Shaft
1/4 in.-20 14-16 10-12 -
Refer to step 16 Bracket Bolt
Refer to section ADDITIONAL Air Box

5/16 in.-18 11-16 8-12 -
INFORMATION Cover Bolt
Refer to section 1.30.3 Blower Drive Gear
5/16 in.-18 22-28 16-21 -
Refer to step 4 Support-to-Thrust Collar Bolt
Refer to section 3.11.3 Oil Pan Bolts
5/16 in.-18 14-16 10-12 -
Refer to step 8 (Lower Pan)
Refer to section ADDITIONAL

Exhaust Valve Bridge
INFORMATION 5/16 in.-24 27-34 20-25 -
Adjusting Screw Locknut
Refer to step 7
Refer to section 1.31.18 Idler Gear Bearing
5/16 in.-24 33-39 24-29 -
Refer to step 6 Retainer Bolts
Refer to section 1.26.2 Camshaft End

3/8 in.-16 47-54 35-40 -
Refer to step 18 Bearing Bolts
Refer to section 1.11.3 Engine Front
3/8 in.-16 31-41 25-30 -
Refer to step 5 Cover Bolts


Refer to section 1.11.2 Engine Front
3/8 in.-16 54-64 40-45 -
Refer to step 8 Cover Bolts (16V)
Refer to section 1.19.2 Flywheel
3/8 in.-16 34-41 25-30 -
Refer to step 7 Housing Bolts
Refer to section 1.31.14 Front Accessory
3/8 in.-16 34 25 -
Refer to step 4 Drive Pulley Bolt
Front End Plate Bolt
INFORMATION 3/8 in.-16 27-34 20-25 -
(Into Water Jacket Plug)
Refer to step 1
Refer to section 1.19.3 Idler Gear Hub and
3/8 in.-16 54-61 40-45 -
Refer to step 11 Spacer Bolts (Hex Head)
Idler Gear Hub and Spacer
Refer to section 1.19.3
Bolts 3/8 in.-16 41-47 30-35 -
Refer to step 11
(Flange Hex Head)
Injector
INFORMATION 3/8 in.-16 27-34 20-25 -
Clamp Bolts
Refer to step 7
Refer to section 1.19.4 Oil Pan Bolts
3/8 in.-16 20-27 15-20 -
Refer to step 16 (Upper)
Refer to section 1.3.3.3 Water Manifold
3/8 in.-16 27-34 20-25 -
Refer to step 2 Cover Bolt
Accessory Drive
Disc-to-Camshaft 3/8 in.-24 61-68 45-50 -
Refer to step 1
Gear Bolt
Accessory Drive
Hub-to-Camshaft 3/8 in.-24 61-68 45-50 -
Refer to step 1
Gear Bolt
Balance Weight-
Refer to section 1.24 3/8 in.-24 20-24 15-18 -
to-Camshaft Gear Bolt
Refer to section 1.30.3 Blower Drive Gear
3/8 in.-24 54-61 40-45 -
Refer to step 2 Hub-to-Spring Plate Bolt
Refer to section 1.19.3 Blower Drive
3/8 in.-24 68-81 50-60 -
Refer to step 6 Step-Up Gear Bolt
Refer to section 1.30.5 Blower Drive Support Bolts
3/8 in.-24 34-41 25-30 -
Refer to step 3 and Nuts (T Engines)
Refer to section 1.26.3 Camshaft Intermediate
3/8 in.-24 20-27 15-20 -
Refer to step 15 Bearing Lock Screw
Engine Front Cover Bolts
(16V-Threaded 3/8 in.-24 34-41 25-30 -
Refer to step 2
Into Plug Nuts)
Exhaust Manifold Outlet
Refer to section 7.2.3 3/8 in.-24 27-34 20-25 -
Flange Nuts (Brass)
Refer to section 1.19.2 Flywheel Housing Bolts
3/8 in.-24 34-41 25-30 -
Refer to step 9 (Threaded Into Plug Nuts)
Flywheel Housing Cover
Refer to section 1.2.5 3/8 in.-24 27-34 20-25 -
(Small Cover) Stud Nut
Refer to section 1.19.2 Flywheel Housing Cover
3/8 in.-24 41-47 30-35 -
Refer to step 8 (Small Hole) Bolt

Refer to section 1.3.5 Fuel Pipe Nuts
3/8 in.-24 18.3 - 160
Refer to step 28 (Uncoated)
3/8 in.-24 14.69 - 130
Refer to step 28 (Endurion)
3/8 in.-24 13.6 - 120
Refer to step 28 (Jacobs Brake)
3/8 in.-24 18.3 - 160
Refer to step 28 (Load Limiting Device)
3/8 in.-24 15.6 - 145
Refer to step 28 (DDEC Engines)
Injector
INFORMATION 3/8 in.-24 27-34 20-25 -
Clamp Nut
Refer to step 7
Left-Bank
Accessory Drive Support 3/8 in.-24 34-41 25-30 -
Refer to step 1
Bolts and Nuts
Refer to section 1.3.3.3 Water Manifold
3/8 in.-24 27-34 20-25 -
Refer to step 2 Cover Nuts


7/16 in.-14 41-47 30-35 -
Refer to step 18 (Large Hole)
Generator Drive
Bearing Retaining Bolt
Generator Drive Oil Seal
Retaining Bolt
Rear Accessory
Refer to section 1.31 7/16 in.-14 47 35 -
Drive Pulley Bolt
Refer to section 1.22.3 Connecting Rod Nut

7/16 in.-20 81-95 60-70 -
Refer to step 7 (Lubrite)
Cross-Head
Piston Pin-to-Connecting 7/16 in.-20 75-81 55-60 -
Refer to step 7
Rod Bolt
Refer to section 1.3.3.3 Exhaust
7/16 in.-20 41-47 30-35 -
Refer to step 2 Manifold Nuts
Refer to section 1.3.3.3 Fuel Manifold
7/16 in.-20 41-47 30-35 -
Refer to step 4 Connector Nuts
Refer to section 1.14.2 Vibration Damper Hub Bolt
7/16 in.-20 102-115 75-85 -
Refer to step 4 (8V Engine)
Refer to section 1.31.8 Alternator Drive Bearing

1/2 in.-13 41-47 30-35 -
Refer to step 8 Retaining Bolt
Alternator Drive Oil Seal
Retaining Bolt
Refer to section 1.8.4.2 Crankshaft Front Cover
1/2 in.-13 122-136 90-100 -
Refer to step 2 and Trunnion Bolts (16V)
Refer to section 1.7.2 Crankshaft
1/2 in.-13 108-122 80-90 -
Refer to step 19 Front Cover Bolts
Refer to section 1.19.2 Flywheel
1/2 in.-13 122-136 90-100 -
Refer to step 7 Housing Bolts
1/2 in.-13 41-47 30-35 -
Refer to step 19 (Large Hole) Bolt
Refer to section 1.19.3 Idler Gear Hub and
1/2 in.-13 108-122 80-90 -
Refer to step 6 Dummy Hub Bolt
Refer to section 1.4 * Rocker
1/2 in.-13 122-136 90-100 -
Refer to step 24 Shaft Bolts
Engine Drive Shaft

Flexible Coupling Bolt
Refer to section 1.19.3 † Camshaft Gear Bolt

9/16 in.-18 244-258 180-190 -
Refer to step 7 (Right-Bank-300M)
† Flywheel Bolts 9/16 in.-18 - - -
Refer to step 1
Refer to section 1.14 † Vibration Damper Bolt 9/16 in.-18 211-224 155-165 -

† Cylinder Head Bolts 11/16 in.-11 312-325 230-240 -
Refer to step 18
† Main Bearing Bolts
(Assembly) 11/16 in.-11 312-325 230-240 -
Refer to step 6
(Captured Washer)
Refer to section 1.7.6 † Main Bearing Bolts
11/16 in.-11 339-352 250-260 -
Refer to step 10 (Former)
(Bolting) 11/16 in.-11 312-325 230-240 -
Refer to step 6
(Captured Washer)
(Bolting) 11/16 in.-11 339-352 250-260 -
Refer to step 11
(Former)
Accessory Drive
Pulley Nut
Refer to section 1.14.4 Crankshaft

1/4 in. 393-421 290-310 -
Refer to step 9 End Bolt
Refer to section 1.2.2 Camshaft End Bolt 1 1/8 in.-18 407-441 300-325 -
Blower Drive Gear

Refer to section 1.30.4 1 7/16 in.-16 68-81 50-60 -
Hub Nut (T Engines)
Left-Bank
Refer to section 1.31 1 7/16 in.-16 68-81 50-60 -
Accessory Drive Gear Nut
* 102-115 N·m (75-85 lb·ft) torque on the two bolts attaching load limit or power control screw bracket (if used) to the rocker arm
shaft bracket.
† Lubricate threads with International Compound No. 2, or equivalent.
Table 1-47 Exceptions to Standard Fastener Torque Specifications

Special Plug Torque Specifications
Listed in Table 1-48 are special plug torque specifications supporting the Series 92 Engines.
Section Fastener * Plug Size Assembly

† Assemble Flush to
Refer to section 1.1.4 3/8 in. Dryseal
Oil Gallery Plug 1.59 mm (0.0625 in.)
Refer to step 2 PTF Thread
Protrusion From Surface
Assemble Flush to
Refer to section 1.3 Cylinder Head (Side) 3/8-16 in. 1.59 mm (0.0625 in.)
Protrusion From Surface
Flush to
3/4 in. Dryseal
Refer to section 1.3 Cylinder Head (End) 3.18 mm (0.1250 in.)
PTF-SAE Short
Recessed
Core Hole Plug 312-366 N·m
Refer to section 1.1.2 2 1/2 in. -16
(Air Box Floor) (230-270 lb·ft) Torque
Refer to section 1.1.6 Oil Drain Plug 34-47 N·m
18 mm
Refer to step 8 (Nylon Washer) (25-35 lb·ft) Torque
* Apply sealing compound to plugs used without gaskets or Teflon.
† After installation, a 1.2187 in. diameter rod inserted in oil line must pass inner face of plug.
Table 1-48 Special Plug Torque Specifications

2 FUEL SYSTEM
Section Page
2.1 FUEL SYSTEM ....................................................................................... 2-3

2.2 MECHANICAL UNIT INJECTOR ............................................................. 2-7
2.3 ELECTRONIC UNIT INJECTOR .............................................................. 2-56
2.4 FUEL INJECTOR TUBE .......................................................................... 2-67
2.5 ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROLS ...................................................... 2-78
2.6 DDEC II .................................................................................................... 2-82
2.7 DDEC III .................................................................................................. 2-88
2.8 DDEC IV .................................................................................................. 2-94
2.9 ELECTRONIC FOOT PEDAL ASSEMBLY .............................................. 2-101
2.10 TURBO BOOST SENSOR ....................................................................... 2-102
2.11 OIL PRESSURE SENSOR ...................................................................... 2-105
2.12 OIL TEMPERATURE SENSOR ............................................................... 2-108
2.13 PULSE WHEEL DDEC III AND II (6V AND 8V ENGINES) ...................... 2-111
2.14 SYNCHRONOUS REFERENCE SENSOR (6V AND 8V) ........................ 2-118
2.15 TIMING REFERENCE SENSOR ............................................................. 2-122
2.16 COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR ................................................................... 2-134
2.17 COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR .................................................... 2-140
2.18 COOLANT PRESSURE SENSOR (12V AND 16V) ................................. 2-142
2.19 FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR ................................................................... 2-144
2.20 FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR ............................................................ 2-147
2.21 FUEL PUMP ............................................................................................ 2-150
2.22 FUEL STRAINER AND FUEL FILTER ..................................................... 2-175
2.23 FUEL COOLER ....................................................................................... 2-183
2.24 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR ...................................... 2-186
2.25 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR (VARIABLE
LOW-SPEED) .......................................................................................... 2-248
2.26 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR (VARIABLE HIGH
SPEED) .................................................................................................... 2-262
2.27 VARIABLE SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR .................................... 2-271
2.28 SG HYDRAULIC GOVERNORS .............................................................. 2-324
2.29 PSG HYDRAULIC GOVERNOR .............................................................. 2-363
2.30 HYDRAULIC GOVERNOR DRIVE .......................................................... 2-372
2.31 HYDRAULIC GOVERNOR SYNCHRONIZING MOTOR ......................... 2-410
2.32 ELECTRONIC GOVERNOR .................................................................... 2-413
2.33 FUEL INJECTOR CONTROL TUBE (NON-DDEC ENGINES) ................ 2-414

2.1 FUEL SYSTEM
The fuel system includes the following components:

□ MUI Fuel Injectors
□ EUI Fuel Injectors
□ Fuel Crossover Tubes (Inlet and Outlet)
□ Fuel Manifolds (Integral with the Cylinder Head)
□ Fuel Pump
□ Fuel Strainer
□ Fuel Filter
□ Fuel Lines
□ DDEC II
□ DDEC III
□ DDEC IV
□ EUI Electrical Wiring Harness (Injector Harness)

2.1 FUEL SYSTEM
Fuel is drawn from the supply tank through the fuel strainer, entering the fuel pump at the inlet
side. See Figure 2-1.
1. Fuel Tank 6. Fuel Pump

2. MUI Fuel Injector 7. Fuel Filter
3. Fuel Crossover Tubes 8. Fuel Strainer
4. Blower 9. Check Valve (When Required)
5. Restricted Tee Fitting
Figure 2-1 Schematic Diagram of a Typical Fuel System (Non-DDEC)
The fuel system for a MUI and DDEC engine are similar, except that DDEC units circulate fuel
through a cold plate to cool the ECM. See Figure 2-2. It leaves the pump under pressure, and
is forced through the fuel filter, through the inlet fuel manifold, through fuel crossover tubes,
and into the inlet side of each fuel injector.

On DDEC engines fuel is routed differently. Fuel manifolds are identified by the words "IN" (top
passage) and "OUT" (bottom passage), which are stamped in several places. This aids fuel line
installation. See Figure 2-2.
1. Fuel Tank 7. DDEC-ECM

2. EUI Fuel Injector 8. Fuel Pump
3. Fuel Crossover Tubes 9. Fuel Filter
4. Blower 10. Fuel Strainer
5. Restricted Tee Fitting 11. Check Valve (When Required)
6. DDEC Cold Plate
Figure 2-2 Schematic Diagram of a Typical Fuel System (DDEC)
Surplus fuel returns from the outlet side of the injectors, to the fuel return manifold, and back to
the supply tank.

2.1 FUEL SYSTEM
All engines are equipped with a restrictive fitting in the fuel outlet manifold on 6V and 8V
engines (two of the cylinder heads of 12V and 16V engines) to maintain the fuel system pressure.
Refer to section 11.6 for engine run-in procedures.
A check valve will be required for some applications. The check valve may be installed in the
supply line between the fuel tank and the fuel strainer to prevent fuel from draining back to the
supply tank when the engine is shut down.

2.2 MECHANICAL UNIT INJECTOR
The fuel injector is a lightweight, compact unit that enables quick and easy starting directly on
diesel fuel. It permits the use of a simple open type combustion chamber. No high pressure fuel
lines, air-fuel mixing, or vaporizing devices are required. See Figure 2-3.
1. Spray Tip 15. Gasket

2. Needle Valve 16. Injector Body
3. Valve Spring 17. Filter
4. Check Valve 18. Control Rack
5. Lower Port 19. Dowel
6. Spill Deflector 20. Seal
7. Bushing 21. Injector Nut
8. Gear Retainer 22. Upper Port
9. Gear 23. Check Valve Cage

10. Plunger 24. Spring Cage

11. Stop Pin 25. Spring Seat
12. Follower 26. Outlet
13. Follower Spring 27. Inlet
14. Filter Fitting
Figure 2-3 Cutaway of Mechanical Unit Injector
The fuel injector performs the following four functions:

1. Accurately times the moment of fuel injection.
2. Atomizes the fuel for vaporization and mixing with the air in the combustion chamber
3. Meters and injects the required amount of fuel to maintain engine speed and load.
4. Creates the high pressure required for proper fuel injection.
Combustion required for satisfactory engine operation is obtained by injecting, under pressure,
a small quantity of accurately timed, metered and finely atomized fuel oil into the combustion
chamber.
Fuel injection metering and timing is accomplished by an upper and lower helix machined in the
lower end of the injector plunger.
Fuel is metered from no load to full load by rotation of the plunger in the bushing. See Figure 2-4.
Figure 2-4 Fuel Metering from No Load to Full Load

The phases of injector operation by vertical travel of the injector plunger are shown in the
following illustration.
The continuous fuel flow through the injector prevents air pockets in the fuel system and cools
injector parts subject to high combustion temperatures.
Engine power output is varied by the injector output (fuel output). Injector fuel output is varied
by the effective stroke of the plunger and the flow rate of the spray tip.
NOTICE:
Since the helix angle and the plunger design determines the
operating characteristics of a particular injector, it is imperative
that the specified injectors are used for each engine. If different
types of injectors are mixed in an engine, erratic operation will
result, damaging the engine or the equipment it powers.
Each fuel injector has a circular disc pressed into a recess at the front side of the injector body
for identification purposes.
The governor, by means of a tube, controls the injector operation by actuating the injector rack.
Each lever must be adjusted independently, thus permitting a uniform setting or fine tuning
of all injector racks.
The fuel injector combines all parts necessary to provide complete and independent fuel injection
at each cylinder.
Fuel, under low pressure, enters the injector at the inlet side through the fitting filter. From the
filter, the fuel passes through a drilled passage into the supply chamber. The supply chamber is the
area between the plunger bushing and the spill deflector and the area under the injector plunger
within the bushing wall. The plunger operates up and down in the bushing. Fuel is supplied
through the two funnel-shaped ports in the bushing wall.
The motion if the injector rocker arm is transmitted to the plunger by the follower. In addition to
the reciprocating motion, the plunger can be rotated around its axis by the gear that meshes with
the control rack. To accomplish fuel metering, an upper helix and a lower helix are machined in
the lower part of the plunger. The helix relationship to the ports changes with the rotation of the
plunger. See Figure 2-5 and see Figure 2-6.

Figure 2-5 Phase of Injector Operation Through Vertical Travel of Plunger

1. Camshaft 7. Fuel Crossover Tubes

2. Cam Follower 8. Control Tube
3. Push Rod 9. Rack Control Lever
4. Injector Clamp 10. Injector Control Rack
5. Rocker Arm 11. Dowel Pin
6. Mechanical Unit Injector 12. Injector Tube
Figure 2-6 Mechanical Unit Injector Mounting
As the plunger moves downward, under pressure of the injector rocker arm, some fuel under the
plunger moves into the supply chamber through the lower port until the port is covered by the
lower end of the plunger. The fuel below the plunger continues to move through a central passage
in the plunger into the fuel metering recess and into the supply chamber through the upper port
until that port is covered by the upper helix of the plunger. With the upper and lower ports both
covered, the remaining fuel trapped under the plunger is subjected to increased pressure by the
continued downward movement of the plunger.

When sufficient pressure is obtained, it opens the flat check valve. The fuel in the check valve
cage, spring cage, tip passages, and tip cavity is compressed until the pressure force acting upward
on the needle valve is sufficient to open the valve against the downward force of the valve spring.
As soon as the needle valve lifts off its seat (beginning of injection), the fuel is forced through
small orifices in the spray tip and atomized into the combustion chamber.
When the lower land of the plunger uncovers the lower port in the bushing, the fuel pressure
below the plunger is relieved, and the valve spring closes the needle valve, ending injection.
A pressure relief passage has been provided in the spring cage to permit bleed-off of fuel by
passing the needle pilot in the tip assembly.
A check valve, directly below the bushing, prevents leakage from the combustion chamber into
the fuel injector in case the valve is accidentally held open by a small particle of debris. The
injector plunger is then returned to its original position by the injector follower spring.
On the return upward movement of the plunger, the high pressure within the cylinder and the
bushing is again filled with fuel through the ports. The constant circulation of fresh, cool
fuel through the injector renews the fuel supply in the chamber, helping cool the injector and
effectively removing all traces of air that may otherwise accumulate in the system and interfere
with accurate metering of the fuel.
Changing the position of the helices by rotating the plunger retards or advances the closing of
the ports and the beginning and ending of the injection period. At the same time, it increases or
decreases the amount of fuel injected into the cylinder. With the control rack pulled out all the
way (no injection), the upper port is not closed by the helix until after the lower port is uncovered.
Consequently, with the rack in this position, all fuel is forced back into the supply chamber and
no fuel injection takes place. With the control rack pushed all the way in (full injection), the
upper port is closed shortly after the lower port has been covered, thus producing a maximum
effective stroke and maximum injection. From the no injection position to full injection position
(full rack movement), the contour of the upper helix advances the closing of the ports and the
beginning of injection.
Effective April, 1988, new fuel pipes (jumper lines), similar to those currently used on electronic
unit injectors in DDEC engines, are now used on the mechanical unit injectors in Series 92
marine engines.
CHEMICAL BURNS
The new fuel pipes feature a three-piece connector at both ends. The primary sealing element is
the replaceable fluoroelastomer (Viton) O-ring seal.

To conform with the fuel pipe change, new connectors are installed in the cylinder head, and new
fuel injectors, with redesigned filter caps, are used. The connectors and caps incorporate a 1/2 in.
- 20 female thread to accept the 1/2 in. - 20 male thread on the fuel pipe nuts. See Figure 2-7.
1. O-ring Seal 3. Connector

2. Injector Filter Cap
Figure 2-7 New Marine Engine Fuel Pipes, Connectors, and Injector Filter
Caps
General Instructions for Injector Care and Overhaul:

The fuel injector is one of the most important and precisely built parts of the engine. The injection
of the correct amount of fuel into the combustion chamber at exactly the right time depends upon
this unit. Because the injector operates against high compression pressure in the combustion
chamber, efficient operation demands that the injector assembly is maintained in first-class
condition at all times. Proper maintenance of the fuel system and the use of the recommended
type fuel filters and clean water-free fuel are the keys to trouble-free operation of the injectors.
Due to the close tolerance of various injector parts, extreme cleanliness and strict adherence to
service instructions is mandatory. Perform all injector repairs in a clean, well-lighted room
with a dust-free atmosphere.
Rags should never be used for cleaning injector parts since lint or other particles will clog parts
of the injector when it is assembled. A lint-free paper tissue is a suitable material for wiping
injector parts.
When servicing an injector, follow the general instructions outlined below:

1. Whenever the fuel pipes are removed from an injector, cover the filter caps with shipping
caps to keep dirt out of the injectors and prevent damage. Protect the fuel pipes and fuel
connectors from damage and the entry of dirt or other foreign material.
2. After an injector has been operated in an engine, do not remove the filter caps or filters
while the injector is in the engine. Replace the filters only when completely disassembling
and overhauling the injector.
3. Whenever an injector has been removed and installed or replaced, make the following
adjustments. Refer to section 12.3.
[a] Time the injector.
[b] Position the injector control rack.
4. Whenever an engine is to be out of service for an extended period, purge the fuel
system, then fill it with a good grade of rust preventive. Refer to section 14.1 and
NOTE:
Ensure a new filter has been installed in a reconditioned injector that is to be placed in
stock. This precaution will prevent dirt particles from entering the injector.
NOTE:
Do not test new or reliabilt remanufactured unit injectors prior to installation in the engine.
The Kent-Moore® POP stand should only be used as a diagnostic tool on fuel injectors
that have been removed from an engine.
5. When a reconditioned injector is to be placed in stock, fill it with injector rack test oil
J 26400-5B. Do not use fuel oil. Install shipping caps on both filter caps immediately after
filling. Store the injector in an upright position to prevent test oil leakage.
2.2.1 Repair or Replacement of Mechanical Unit Injector

See Figure 2-8.

Figure 2-8 Flowchart Repair or Replacement of Mechanical Unit Injector
2.2.2 Removal of Mechanical Unit Injector
Remove the injector as follows:

1. Clean and remove the valve rocker cover. Discard the gasket.

NOTICE:
Immediately after removing the fuel pipes (jumper lines) from
an injector, cover the filter caps with shipping caps to prevent
dirt from entering the injector. Protect the fuel pipes and fuel
connectors from dirt or foreign material entry.
2. Remove the fuel pipes from both the injector and the fuel connectors.
PERSONAL INJURY
system.
3. Crank the engine to bring the upper ends of the push rods of the injector and valve rocker
arms horizontally in line.
NOTE:
If a wrench is used on the front crankshaft bolt, do not turn the crankshaft to the left.
This could loosen the bolt.

4. Remove the two rocker shaft bracket bolts, and swing the rocker arms away from the
injector and valves. See Figure 2-9.
1. Injector Control Tube 3. Mechanical Unit Injector

2. Rocker Arm Assemblies 4. Rocker Arm Shaft Bolt
Figure 2-9 Removing Mechanical Unit Injector from Cylinder Head
5. Remove the injector clamp bolt, washer, and clamp.

6. Loosen the inner and outer adjusting screws or adjusting screw and locknut on the injector
rack control lever. Slide the lever away from the injector.
7. Lift the injector from its seat in the cylinder head.
8. Cover the injector hole in the cylinder head to keep foreign material out.

EYE INJURY
9. Clean the exterior of the injector with clean solvent. Dry it with compressed air.
NOTICE:
To avoid fuel leaks, always use new O-ring seals when replacing
the fuel pipes. Do not reuse seals. The new fuel pipes are not
compatible with Jacobs Brakes used in automotive applications
and should not be used on engines equipped with them.
NOTICE:
Fuel leakage from damaged or improperly installed fuel pipes
can cause lube oil dilution, which may result in serious engine
damage.
NOTE:
DDC recommends installing the new flared end fuel pipes to replace the originals. When
installing flared end fuel pipes, use fuel line nut wrench J 8932-B and "clicker" type
torque wrench J 24405 (calibrated in inch-pounds) to apply proper torque and avoid
damaging the fuel pipes. Refer to General Information for torque specifications.
2.2.3 Disassembly of Mechanical Unit Injector
Disassemble the injector as follows:

1. Support the injector upright in injector holding fixture J 22396-A, and remove the filter
cap, gasket, and filter element. See Figure 2-10.

1. Mechanical Unit Injector 3. Filter Cap

2. Gasket 4. Filter Element
Figure 2-10 Removing Filter Cap and Filter Element
NOTE:
Whenever a fuel injector is disassembled, discard the old filters and gaskets, and replace
them with new filters and gaskets. In the offset injector, a filter is used in the inlet side
only. No filter is required in the outlet side. See Figure 2-11.

1. Inlet 2. Outlet
Offset injector filter required on inlet side only (above control rack)
Figure 2-11 Location of Injector Filter (Offset Injector)

2. Compress the follower spring. See Figure 2-12. Raise the spring above the stop pin
with a screwdriver, and withdraw the pin.
NOTE:
Allow the spring to rise gradually.
1. Fuel Injector 3. Stop Pin

2. Follower
Figure 2-12 Removing Injector Follower Stop Pin

3. Remove the plunger follower, plunger, and spring as an assembly. See Figure 2-13.
1. Fuel Injector 3. Plunger

2. Spring 4. Plunger Follower
Figure 2-13 Removing or Installing Plunger Follower, Plunger, and Spring

4. Using socket J 4983-01, loosen the nut on the injector body. See Figure 2-14.
1. Injector Nut 2. Spray Tip and Valve Assembly
Figure 2-14 Removing Injector Nut using Tool J 4983-01

5. Lift the injector nut straight up. Remove the spray tip, spring cage, valve spring, spring
seat, check valve cage, and check valve.
NOTE:
Do not dislodge the spray tip and valve parts.
NOTE:
When an injector has been in use for some time, the spray tip may not be pushed readily
from the nut. In this case, support the nut on a wood block, and drive the tip down
through the nut, using tool J 1291-02. See Figure 2-15.
1. Injector Nut
Figure 2-15 Removing Spray Tip from Injector Nut using J 1291-02

6. See Figure 2-16. Remove the spill deflector, and lift the bushing straight out of the
injector body.
1. Spring Cage 9. Check Valve Cage

2. Needle Valve 10. Check Valve
3. Spray Tip 11. Bushing
4. Spill Deflector 12. Gear Retainer
5. Seal Ring 13. Gear
6. Injector Nut 14. Injector Body
7. Spring Seat 15. Control Rack
8. Valve Spring
Figure 2-16 Injector Rack, Gear, Spray Tip, and Valve Assembly
7. Remove the injector body from the holding fixture. Turn the body upside down, and catch
the gear retainer and gear as they fall out of the body.

8. Withdraw the injector control rack from the injector body. Remove the seal ring from
the body.
2.2.3.1 Cleaning of Mechanical Unit Injector
Clean the fuel injector as follows:
NOTE:
Provide the injector repair room with a supply of filtered, dry, compressed air for drying
the injector parts after they have been cleaned. Use rust-proof wash pans. They should
be deep enough to permit complete submersion of all injector parts in wire baskets of
16 mesh wire screen. Use baskets that will keep the parts from contacting dirt at the
bottom of the pans.
NOTE:
Since most injector problems result from dirt particles, a clean area must be provided for
injector parts after cleaning and inspection.
EYE INJURY
1. Wash all parts with a suitable cleaning solvent. Dry them with clean, filtered compressed
air.
2. Wipe the parts with lint-free tissue. Clean out the passages, drilled holes, and slots in all
injector parts.
NOTE:
Since lint or other particles will clog the injector once it is assembled, rags should never
be used for cleaning or drying.
3. Soak the spray tip for approximately fifteen minutes in a sonic cleaner.

4. Insert reamer J 21089 in the injector body. See Figure 2-17. Turn it clockwise a few times.
1. Injector Body
Figure 2-17 Cleaning Injector Body with Tool J 21089
5. Remove the reamer, and check the ring face for reamer contact over the entire surface.
NOTE:
If necessary, repeat the reaming procedure until the reamer makes contact with the
entire ring face.
6. Clean the opposite side of the ring in the same manner.
NOTICE:
Do not damage the injector body ring during this operation. This
spiral ring forms part of the injector body and is not serviced. If
the ring is damaged, the injector body must be replaced.
7. Insert reamer J 21089 carefully into the ring bore of the injector body. Turn the reamer
clockwise to remove any burrs.
NOTE:
Do not dislodge the ring.

EYE INJURY
8. Wash the injector body in clean solvent, and dry with compressed air.
9. Remove the carbon deposits from the lower end of the injector nut with reamer J 9418-5
from set J 9418. See Figure 2-18.
NOTE:
Remove only enough metal to produce a clean uniform seat.
1. Injector Nut
Figure 2-18 Cleaning Injector Nut Lower End with Tool J 9418-5 from Set
J 9418
NOTE:
Carbon deposits on the spray tip seating surfaces of the injector nut will result in poor
sealing and fuel leakage.
10. Clean the tip seat with reamer J 9418-1 from set J 9418.

EYE INJURY
11. Wash the injector nut in clean solvent, and dry it with compressed air.
EYE INJURY
12. Wash the plunger and bushing with clean solvent, and dry them with compressed air.
NOTICE:
Ensure high pressure bleed hole in the side of the bushing is not
plugged. If this hole is plugged, fuel leakage will occur at the
upper end of the bushing during engine operation, causing oil
dilution.
NOTE:
When handling the injector plunger, do not touch the finished plunger surfaces.
NOTE:
Since they are matched parts, keep the plunger and bushing together.
13. After washing, submerge the parts in a clean receptacle containing clean test oil.
NOTE:
Keep the parts of each injector assembly together.
2.2.3.2 Inspection of Mechanical Unit Injector
Inspect the injector as follows:

1. Check the injector for leaks using tester J 34760-150A (from set J 34760-B).
[a] If the injector leaks, inspect the plunger. Refer to step 4.
[b] If the injector does not leak, proceed with the inspection.

2. Check the spray pattern, atomization, and valve opening pressure using tester
J 34760-150A (from set J 34760-B).
[a] If the injector does not pass the tests, inspect the plunger. Refer to step 4.
[b] If the injector passes the tests, continue inspection.
3. Perform injector fuel output test using calibrator J 22410.
NOTE:
If calibrator J 22410 is not available use updated calibrator J 39300. Tools used on
these machines are not interchangeable.
[a] If the injector does not pass the test, inspect the plunger. Refer to step 4.
[b] If the injector passes the test, continue inspection.
4. Visually inspect the plunger for scratches, scoring, wear, damage, and helix chipping.
[a] If scratched, scored, worn, damaged, or chipped, replace the plunger. Refer to section
2.2.4.
[b] If not scratched, scored, worn, damaged, or chipped, continue inspection.
NOTE:
Injector components manufactured after January 1, 1988 may or may not be blued.
Bluing has no effect on a part's performance or service life.
5. Measure between the top of the follower and the slot.

[a] If this dimension is not within 41.834 ± 0.05 mm (1.647 ± 0.002 in.), replace
follower. See Figure 2-19.

[b] If this dimension is within specified limits, proceed with inspection.
Figure 2-19 Injector Follower Measurements
6. Visually inspect the stop pin groove in the side of the follower for damage.
[a] If not smooth, replace the follower. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] If smooth, continue inspection.
7. Examine the outside diameter of the follower spring coils for wear from the rocker arms
contacting the coils.
[a] If worn, replace the follower spring. Refer to section 2.2.4.
8. Visually inspect the follower spring for rust, pitting, nicks, or notches in the coils, broken
coils, broken coil ends, and notches under the coil ends.
[a] If rusted, pitted, nicked, notched, or broken, replace the follower spring.
[b] If not rusted, pitted, nicked, notched, or broken, continue inspection.
9. Visually inspect the spring for damage or wear and check the follower spring tension with
spring tester J 29196. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
NOTE:
The current injector follower spring 3.61 mm (0.142 in.) diameter wire has a free length
of approximately 38.202 mm (1.504 in.) and should be replaced when a load of less

than 70 lbs. will compress it to 26.11 mm (1.028 in.). The former spring wire was 3.05
mm (0.120 in.) diameter.
NOTE:
DDC recommends that at the time of overhaul, all injectors in an engine need to be the
same spring type.
[a] If the spring is damaged, worn, or fails to meet test specifications, replace it.
[b] If not damaged or worn and meets test specifications, continue inspection.
10. Visually inspect the injector body threads, the bushing seating surface, and the filter cap
gasket sealing surfaces for damage, wear, rust, and corrosion.
[a] If excessively damaged, worn, rusted, corroded, or more than 10 percent of the
threads are damaged, replace the injector body. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] If not damaged, worn, rusted, or corroded, continue inspection.
11. Visually inspect the rack hole, body seal ring sealing surface, clamp radius, and dowel
pin for damage and wear.
[a] If worn or damaged, replace the injector body. Refer to section 2.2.4.
12. Visually inspect the filter cap jumper line sealing surfaces, the copper gasket sealing
surfaces, the threads, and the fuel passage.
[a] If the threads or sealing surfaces are damaged, replace the filter cap. Refer to section
2.2.4.
[b] If the fuel passages are plugged, clean them and remove burrs. Refer to section
[c] If the threads and sealing surfaces are not damaged and the fuel passages are not
plugged, continue inspection.
13. Visually inspect the control rack for nicks, burrs, rust, and hardness.
[a] If nicked, burred, rusted, or hard, replace the control rack. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] If not nicked, burred, rusted, or hard, continue inspection.
14. Inspect the control rack teeth for wear.
[a] If worn, replace the control rack. Refer to section 2.2.4.
15. Check the rack for straightness.
NOTE:
A 6.35 mm (0.250 in.) inside diameter bushing may be used to check the rack for
straightness.
[a] If bent, replace the rack. Refer to section 2.2.4.

[b] If not bent, proceed with the inspection.

16. Inspect the notch width in the clevis.
NOTE:
The notch in the clevis should be 7.938-7.988 mm (0.3125-0.3145 in.).
[a] If the width is not within the specified limits, replace the rack. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] If the width is within specified limits, continue inspection.
17. Inspect the gear and the gear retainer for nicks, burrs or rust and the gear teeth for wear.
[a] If burred, remove burrs from teeth. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
[b] If excessively worn, burred, rusted, or cracked, replace the gear. Refer to section
2.2.4.
[c] If not worn, burred, rusted, or crooked, continue inspection.
18. Visually inspect the bushing lapped sealing surface for scratches and the bushing internal
diameter for scoring.
[a] If scratched or scored, replace the plunger and bushing assembly. Refer to section
2.2.4.
NOTICE:
Do not attempt to interchange the plunger between bushings.
Since components of plunger and bushing assemblies are
supplied as matched sets, any attempt to mix them can result in
plunger and bushing seizure and serious injector damage.
NOTE:
Revised plunger and bushing assemblies are interchangeable with early plunger and
bushing assemblies. Because of the increased resistance to scoring provided by the
revised assemblies, DDC recommends using the revised assemblies when rebuilding
fuel injectors.
[b] If not scratched or scored, continue inspection.

19. Visually inspect the dowel pin for damage.
[a] If damaged, replace the plunger and bushing assembly. Refer to section 2.2.4.
20. Inspect the entire bushing for corrosion or varnish. See Figure 2-20.
[a] Clean the bushing, and remove varnish.

[b] If not varnished or corroded, continue inspection.
1. Bushing
Figure 2-20 Examining Sealing Surface with a Magnifying Glass
21. Inspect the plunger for corrosion, varnish, scoring, scratches, wear, and chips along the
edge of the helix. See Figure 2-21.
[a] If scored, cracked, chipped and scratched, varnish cannot be removed, replace the
plunger and bushing assembly. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] Clean the plunger, and remove varnish. See Figure 2-21.

[c] If not scored, cracked, chipped, scratched, and varnish can be removed, continue
inspection.
Figure 2-21 Unusable Injector Plungers
22. Inspect the check valve for corrosion, varnish, and cracks and scratches on the lapped
surfaces.
[a] If scratched, cracked, corroded, or varnish cannot be removed, replace the check
valve. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] Clean the check valve, and remove varnish.
[c] If not scratched, cracked, corroded, and varnish can be removed, continue inspection.
23. Inspect the check valve cage for corrosion, varnish, wear, and cracks and scratches on
the lapped surfaces.
[a] Clean the check valve cage, and remove varnish.
[b] If corroded, worn, cracked, scratched, or varnish cannot be removed, replace the
check valve cage. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[c] If not corroded, worn, cracked, scratched, and varnish can be removed, continue
inspection.
24. Inspect the injector valve spring for worn, broken, and notched coil ends.
[a] If worn, broken, and notched, replace the injector valve spring. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] If not worn, broken, or notched, continue inspection.
25. Visually inspect for corrosion, nicks, and cavitation erosion on the inside of the spring at
approximately 1-1/2 coils from the end.

[a] If corroded, replace the spring. Refer to section 2.2.4.

[b] If not corroded, proceed with the inspection.
26. Inspect the spring seat surfaces for wear.
[a] If the surfaces are excessively worn, replace the spring seat. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] If the surfaces are not excessively worn, continue inspection.
NOTE:
To ensure proper operation, the high valve opening pressure spring and seat must be
used together. Do not mix injectors containing standard springs and seats with injectors
having high valve opening pressure springs and seats in the same engine. A high valve
opening pressure valve spring and seat are used in certain high output engine injectors.
The high valve opening pressure spring is made of a thicker diameter wire than the
standard valve spring and has a smaller inside diameter (4.42 mm ID vs. 4.68 mm ID
or 0.174 in. ID vs 0.184 in. ID). The high valve opening pressure spring seat can be
distinguished from the standard spring seat by the smaller diameter post and the groove
on the end of this post.
27. Inspect the spring cage for cracks, corrosion or varnish, and scratches on the lapped
sealing surfaces.
[a] If cracked, corroded, scratched, or varnish cannot be removed, replace the spring
cage. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] Clean the spring cage, and remove the varnish.
28. Inspect the spring seat surface and the needle valve seating surface for wear.
[a] If excessively worn, the spring cage must be replaced. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] If not excessively worn, continue inspection.
29. Inspect the spray tip for cracks, enlarged spray holes, corrosion on the outside diameter
taper, and oxide scale on the spray hole end.
[a] If tips are cracked, holes are enlarged, outside taper is corroded, and oxide scale is on
the spray hole end, replace the injector. Refer to section 2.2.5.
[b] If none of these conditions exist, continue inspection.
30. Inspect the seal ring seating area, the spray tip seating area, and the spray tip hole for
corrosion.
[a] If corroded, replace the necessary parts.
[b] If not corroded, proceed with the inspection.
31. Visually inspect the nut-to-tip sealing surface and the lapped sealing surface for scratches.
[a] If scratched, replace the injector. Refer to section 2.2.5.
[b] If not scratched, continue inspection.
32. Visually inspect the spray tip needle valve for erosion at the seat shoulder, scratches and
discoloration from overheating.

[a] If eroded, scratched, or discolored, replace the needle valve. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] If not eroded, scratched, or discolored, continue inspection.
33. Visually inspect the nut for damaged threads or loosening.
[a] If threads are damaged, replace the nut. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] If loosened, hand tighten the nut.
[c] If not damaged or loose, continue inspection.
34. Inspect both ends of the spill deflector for smoothness, cracks, and burrs.
[a] If burred, remove the burrs.
[b] If burrs cannot be removed, deflector is cracked, or edges are rough and uneven,
replace the spill deflector. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[c] If none of these conditions exist, continue inspection.
35. Inspect the thickness of spray tip shoulder, check valve cage, check valve, and valve
spring cage. The minimum parts thickness is listed in Table 2-1.
[a] Parts failing to meet specified minimum dimensions must be replaced.
[b] If the parts meet specified minimum dimensions, continue inspection.
Part Name Minimum Thickness

Spray Tip (Shoulder) 5.0546 mm (0.199 in.)
Check Valve Cage 4.1402-4.191 mm (0.163-0.165 in.)
Check Valve 0.5588 mm (0.022 in.)
Valve Spring Cage 15.2908 mm (0.602 in.)
Table 2-1 Minimum Thickness (Used Parts)

2.2.3.3 Inspection of Needle Valve Lift
Measure the needle valve lift, using tool J 9462-02 as follows. See Figure 2-22:
Figure 2-22 Checking Needle Valve Lift with Tool J 9462-02
1. Place the bottom surface of the plunger assembly on a flat surface, and zero the indicator
dial.
2. Place the spray tip and needle valve assembly against the bottom of the gage with the
needle valve quill in the plunger hole.
3. While holding the spray tip and needle valve assembly tight against the gage, read the
needle valve lift on the indicator.
NOTE:
The lift should be 0.20-0.46 mm (0.008-0.018 in.).
[a] If the lift exceeds 0.46 mm (0.018 in.), the tip assembly must be replaced.
[b] If the lift is less than 0.20 mm (0.008 in.), inspect for foreign material between the
needle valve and the tip seat. If present, remove the foreign material.
[c] If the needle valve lift is within limits, install a new needle valve spring, and recheck
the valve opening pressure and valve action. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[d] The spray tip and needle valve assembly should be replaced if low valve opening
pressure or poor atomization occurs with the new spring and seat.

4. Match the plunger/bushing assembly with the proper tip using flow gage J 25600-B.
2.2.3.4 Inspection of Mechanical Unit Injector with Tester J 29584
Check the rack and plunger for freedom of movement with tester J 29584 as follows:
1. With the injector control rack held in the no-fuel position, operate the handle to depress
the follower to the bottom of its stroke.

2. Very slowly release the pressure on the handle while moving the control rack up and down
until the follower reaches the top of its travel.
NOTE:
If the rack falls without restriction, the injector passes the test. If the injector fails the test,
either the plunger is scored or the plunger and bushing assembly or the body and nut is
misaligned due to dirty parts. See Figure 2-23.
1. Mechanical Unit Injector
Figure 2-23 Inspecting Injector with Tester J 29584
[a] If the plunger is scored, replace the rack and plunger. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] If the body, bushing, or nut is misaligned, clean dirty parts or replace damaged parts.
[c] If the injector passes the test, continue inspection.

2.2.4 Assembly of Injector
Assemble the injector as follows:

1. Secure the body in vise J 22396-A.
2. Insert new filter in the top of the body.
NOTE:
The current production filter is installed dimple end down, slotted end up.
3. Insert a new filter in the inlet side of an offset injector. No filter is required at the outlet
side. See Figure 2-24.
1. Inlet 2. Outlet
Offset injector filter required on inlet side only (above control rack)
Figure 2-24 Location of Filter in Injector Body

4. Place a new gasket on each filter cap. Lubricate the threads, and install the filter caps.
Tighten the filter caps to 81-95 N·m (60-70 lb·ft) torque with a 9/16 in. deep socket.
Listed in Table 2-2. See Figure 2-25.
Blued Non-Blued Mixed

81-95 N·m (60-70 lb·ft) 81-95 N·m (60-70 lb·ft) 81-95 N·m (60-70 lb·ft)
Table 2-2 Injector Components
1. Fuel Injector 3. Filter Cap

2. Gasket 4. Filter Element
Figure 2-25 Installing Filter Cap and Filter Element
5. Install clean shipping caps to protect the sealing surfaces and prevent dirt from entering
the injector.

6. Lubricate the injector nut seal ring installer J 29197 with injector test oil.
7. Remove the injector from the vise, and hold the injector body, bottom end up. Place the
installer over the threads of the injector body.
8. Lubricate the new seal ring. Place the new seal over the protector nose and onto the
shoulder of the injector body.
NOTE:
Do not allow the seal to roll or twist.
NOTE:
A new round (in cross-section) injector nut seal ring has replaced the former
diamond-shaped ring. Only the round seal is serviced.
9. Remove the protector (J 29197).

10. Slide the control rack into the injector body.

11. Observe the marked teeth on the control rack and gear. Look into the body bore, and move
the rack until the drill marks are visible. Hold the rack in this position. See Figure 2-26.

8. Valve Spring
Figure 2-26 Injector Rack, Spray Tip and Valve Assembly

12. Place the gear in the injector body so that the marked tooth is engaged between the two
marked teeth on the rack. See Figure 2-27.

8. Valve Spring
Figure 2-27 Injector Rack, Spray Tip and Valve Assembly
13. Place the gear retainer on top of the gear.

14. Align the locating pin in the bushing with the slot in the injector body. Slide the end
of the bushing into place.
15. Support the injector body, bottom end up, in injector vise J 22396-A.
16. Install the spill deflector over the bushing barrel.
17. Perform the spray tip test using injector tip tester J 22640-A before proceeding with the
injector assembly. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
18. Place the check valve [without the 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) hole] centrally on the top of the
bushing. Place the check valve cage over the check valve and against the bushing.
NOTE:
The check valve cage must not rest on the check valve.
19. Insert the spring seat in the valve spring. Insert the assembly into the cage, spring seat first.
20. Place the spring cage, spring seat, and valve spring assembly (valve spring down) on top
of the check valve cage.
21. Put the needle, tapered end down, into the spray tip. Place the spray tip assembly on top of
the spring cage with the needle valve quill end in the spring cage hole.
22. Lubricate the threads in the injector nut, and hand thread the nut on the injector body.
23. Rotate the spray tip between your thumb and first finger while threading the nut on the
injector body.
24. Tighten the nut as tight as possible by hand.
NOTE:
There should be sufficient force on the spray tip to make it impossible to turn with finger.
25. Place injector in fixture tool J 4983-01.
NOTICE:
Do not exceed the specified torque. The nut may be stretched
and lapped surfaces will seal improperly in a subsequent injector
overhaul.

26. Use socket J 4983-01 and a torque wrench to tighten the injector nut to 102-115 N·m
(75-85 lb·ft) torque. Listed in Table 2-3 are the injector components. See Figure 2-28
for illustration.

1. Holding Fixture 3. Spray Tip Assembly

2. Injector Nut
Figure 2-28 Torquing Injector Nut to Injector Body with Tool J 4983-01

27. After assembling the fuel injector, check the area between the nut and the body.
NOTE:
If the seal is still visible after the nut is assembled, try another nut and a new seal that
permits assembly without seal extrusion.
28. Turn the injector over, and push the rack in all the way.
29. Place the follower spring on the injector body.
30. Place the stop pin on the injector body so that the follower spring rests on the narrow
flange of the stop pin. See Figure 2-29.
1. Fuel Injector 3. Stop Pin

2. Follower
Figure 2-29 Installing Injector Follower Stop Pin
31. Slide the head of the plunger into the follower.

32. Align the slot in the follower with the stop pin hole in the injector body.
33. Align the flat side of the plunger with the flat in the gear.
34. Insert the free end of the plunger into the injector body. Press down on the follower, and
simultaneously press the stop pin into position.
NOTE:
When in place, the spring will hold the stop pin in position.
2.2.4.1 Test Injector Fuel Output
Perform the injector fuel output test using calibrator J 22410. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
NOTE:
If calibrator J 22410 is not available use updated calibrator J 39300. Tools used on
these machines are not interchangeable.
2.2.4.2 Test Injector Atomization and Spray
Test the injector atomization and spray using tool J 34760–150A from set J 34760-B as follows:
1. Clamp the injector, and purge the air from the system. See Figure 2-30.
NOTE:
Ensure a new filter has been installed in a reconditioned injector that is to be placed in
stock. This precaution will prevent dirt particles from entering the injector.
NOTE:
Do not test new or reliabilt remanufactured unit injectors prior to installation in the engine.
The Kent-Moore POP stand should only be used as a diagnostic tool on fuel injectors
that have been removed from an engine.

1. Lever 4 Up-Flow to Clamp; Down-Flow to Injector 6. Pump Lever 1

2. Rocker Arm Engagement-Lever 3 7. Gage 2
3. Plunger Position Lever 2 8. Mechanical Unit Injector
4. Gage 1 9. Lever 5 Up-Valve Closed for Clamping; Down-Valve
5. Gage Dampening Valve Open to Release Clamp
Figure 2-30 Injector in Position for Testing with Tester J 34760-150A
2. Move lever 4 down.

3. Position the injector rack in the full-fuel position.
4. Place pump lever 1 in the vertical position.
5. Move lever 3 to the forward position.

6. Using pump lever 1, depress the injector follower at 40 to 80 strokes per minute to
simulate engine operation. Observe the spray pattern.
NOTE:
All spray orifices should be open and dispersing the test oil evenly. The beginning and
ending of injection should be sharp, and the test oil should be finely atomized with no
drops forming on the end of the tip.
2.2.4.3 Test Injector Pressure Holding and Leaks
Perform the pressure holding and leak test as follows:
NOTE:
This test determines if the body-to-bushing mating surfaces in the injector are sealing
properly and indicates proper plunger-to-bushing fit.
1. Clamp the injector into tester J 34760-150A (from set J 34760-B). Purge the air from
the system.
2. Close the thru-flow valve, but do not over tighten.
3. Move lever 2 to the rear, horizontal position.
4. Operate pump lever until gage 1 reads approximately 4823 kPa (700 lb/in.2), and time
pressure drop between 3100-1723 kPa (450-250 lb/in.2).
[a] If pressure drop occurs in less than 15 seconds, leakage is excessive. Replace
injector. Refer to section 2.2.5.
[b] If the fuel injector passes the above tests, proceed with the fuel output test.
5. Unclamp the injector.
6. Open the thru-flow valve to release system pressure.
7. Move lever 5 down to release the clamping pressure.
8. Swing out the adaptor plate, and remove the injector after the nylon seals and the clamping
head are free and clean of the injector filter caps.
9. Carefully return lever 5 to the up (horizontal) position.
2.2.4.4 Test of Injector Rack Movement
Test rack movement as follows:

1. Place the injector in tester J 29584. See Figure 2-31. Check rack for freedom of movement.
1. Mechanical Unit Injector
Figure 2-31 Testing Injector with Tester J 29584
2. With the injector control rack held in the no-fuel position, operate the handle to depress
the follower to the bottom of its stroke.
3. Very slowly release the pressure on the handle while moving the control rack up and down
until the follower reaches the top of its travel.
[a] If the rack falls freely, the injector passes the test.
[b] If the rack does not fall freely, loosen the injector nut, turn the tip, and tighten the nut.
Loosen and tighten the nut a couple of times, if necessary.

[c] If the rack does not move freely, change the injector nut. Refer to section 2.21.
NOTE:
It may be necessary to disassemble the injector to eliminate the cause of the misaligned
parts, remove dirt or carbon in the nut or tip.
2.2.4.5 Test of Injector Spray Tip Alignment
Test the spray tip alignment as follows:

1. Place the injector in tester J 29584, and adjust the dial indicator to zero.
2. Rotate the injector 360 degrees, and note the total run-out indicated on the dial.
3. If the total run-out exceeds 0.20 mm (0.008 in.), remove the injector from the gage.
4. Loosen the injector nut, center the spray tip, and tighten the nut to 102-115 N·m (75-85
lb·ft) torque. Listed in Table 2-4 are the injector components.

5. Recheck the spray tip.

[a] If, after several attempts, the spray tip cannot be positioned satisfactorily, replace
the injector nut. Refer to section 2.2.4.
[b] If the spray tip passes the test, install the injector. Refer to section 2.2.5.
2.2.5 Installation of Mechanical Unit Injector
Prior to injector installation, perform the following steps:
NOTE:
Before installing an injector in an engine, remove the carbon deposits from the beveled
seat of the injector tube in the cylinder head. This will ensure correct alignment of the
injector and prevent any undue stresses from being exerted against the spray tip.
1. Clean the injector tube.
NOTE:
Exercise care to remove ONLY the carbon, so that the proper tip protrusion is maintained.
2. Pack the reamer flutes with grease to retain the carbon removed from the tube.
3. The fuel injector must be filled with fuel oil. If necessary, add clean fuel oil at the inlet
filter cap until it runs out of the outlet filter cap.
Install the injector in the engine as follows:

1. Insert the injector into the injector tube with the dowel pin in the injector body registering
with the cylinder head locating hole.
2. Slide the injector rack control lever over so that it registers with the injector rack.
NOTE:
Check the injector control rack for free movement. Excess torque can cause the control
rack to stick or bind.
3. Install the injector clamp, washer (with curved side toward injector clamp), and bolt.
Tighten the bolt to 27-34 N·m (20-25 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
Ensure that the clamp does not interfere with the injector follower spring or the exhaust
valve springs.
NOTICE:
On four valve cylinder heads, exhaust valves may be damaged
if the exhaust valve bridge is not resting on the ends of the
exhaust valves when the rocker shaft bracket bolts are tightened.
Refer to section 1.4. Note the position of the exhaust valve
bridge before, during, and after tightening the rocker shaft bolts.
4. Move the rocker arm assembly into position. Tighten the bolts to secure the rocker arm
brackets to the cylinder head. Refer to General Information for torque specifications.
5. Remove the shipping caps. Align the fuel pipes, and connect them to the injectors and
the fuel connectors.
NOTE:
Because of their low friction surface, Endurion-coated nuts on fuel jumper lines must be
tightened from 14.69-18.1 N·m (130-160 lb·in) torque, instead of the 18.3 N·m (160 lb·in)
required with uncoated nuts. To avoid possible confusion when tightening jumper line
nuts, do not mix nuts on the same cylinder head. Jake Brake jumper lines and jumper
lines used with load-limiting devices do not have coated nuts.

6. Tighten fuel pipe nuts on jumper lines to the single values listed in Table 2-5. Use fuel line
nut wrench J 8932-B and "clicker" type torque wrench J 24405 (calibrated in inch-pounds).
Jumper Line Usage Torque

Endurion-coated 14.69-18.1 N·m (130-160 lb·in)
Uncoated 18.3 N·m (160 lb·in)
*Jacobs Brakes 13.6 N·m (120 lb·in)
Load Limiting Devices 18.3 N·m (160 lb·in)
DDEC Engines 16.16 N·m (143 lb·in)
* Not Serviced. Available from Jacobs Manufacturing Company.
Table 2-5 Torque Specifications for Jumper Line Usage
NOTE:
Low lubricating oil pressure or fuel odor coming from crankcase breather or an open filler
cap might indicate fuel leaks at the fuel injector supply lines and connector nut seals.
When these are detected, remove the valve rocker cover. Under normal conditions,
lubricating oil should coat the cylinder head area and collect where the fuel pipes contact
the connectors and the fuel connectors contact the cylinder head. If these areas do
not have the normal coating of lubricating oil, fuel oil is leaking and washing off the
lubricating oil.
7. To correct, remove and replace the leaking fuel pipes and/or connectors.
8. Use a new gasket, and install the rocker cover.
9. Drain the lubricating oil, and change the oil filter elements.
10. Refill the crankcase to the proper level with the recommended grade of oil.
11. Refer to section 12.1 for complete engine tune-up.
NOTE:
If only one injector has been removed and replaced, and the other injectors and the
governor adjustment have not been disturbed, only adjust the valve clearance, and time
the injector for the one cylinder. Position the injector rack control lever.
12. Refer to section 12.3 for injector installation verification.

2.3 ELECTRONIC UNIT INJECTOR
The Series 92 Electronic Unit Injector is a lightweight, compact unit that injects diesel fuel
directly into the combustion chamber. See Figure 2-32. The amount of fuel injected and the
beginning of injection timing is determined by the Electronic Control Module (ECM). The ECM
sends a command pulse that activates the injector solenoid.
NOTE:
These modifications do not apply to the ethanol, methanol, or compressed natural gas
engines.
The EUI performs four functions:

□ Creates the high fuel pressure required for efficient injection.
□ Meters and injects the precise amount of fuel required for engine load.
□ Atomizes the fuel for mixing with the air in the combustion chamber.
□ Permits continuous fuel flow to cool components.
Engine combustion is obtained by injecting, under pressure, a small quantity of accurately metered
and finely atomized fuel oil into the cylinder. Metering and timing of the fuel is accomplished by
the ECM, that actuates the solenoid poppet valve to stop the free flow of fuel through the injector.
When the solenoid poppet valve closes, fuel is trapped in the injector body below the plunger.
The continuous fuel flow through the injector prevents the formation of air pockets in the fuel
system in addition to cooling those injector parts subjected to high combustion temperatures.
The EUI combines in a single unit, all of the parts necessary to provide complete and independent
fuel injection at each cylinder.
NOTE:
Do not test new or reliabilt remanufactured electronic unit injectors prior to installation
in the engine. The Kent-Moore POP stand should only be used as a diagnostic tool on
fuel injectors that have been removed from an engine.

After entering the inlet manifold, the fuel passes through a drilled passage into the poppet control
valve and plunger area. See Figure 2-32.
1. Injector Nut and Spray Tip Assembly 8. Rocker Arm

2. Poppet Control Valve 9. Injector Follower
3. Armature 10. Follower Spring
4. Fuel Inlet/Outlet Manifold 11. Injector Body
5. Fuel Inlet/Outlet Fittings 12. Plunger
6. Fuel Crossover Tube 13. Fuel Supply Chamber
7. Injector Solenoid
Depicts only the fuel flow path of the combustible fuel. The fuel used for cooling the injector is not shown.
Figure 2-32 Cross Section of Electronic Unit Injector (Fuel Flow Operation)
The plunger operates up and down in the injector body bore. The motion of the rocker arm is
transmitted to the plunger and follower that bears against the follower spring.

On the compression stroke (during engine operation), as the piston moves approximately
two-thirds of the way up in the cylinder, the injector cam lode begins to lift. This causes the
injector rocker arm to push down on the follower and plunger. Just prior to injection, the ECM
sends an electric pulse, that activates the injector solenoid. The energized solenoid creates a
magnetic force that pulls the armature up, closing the poppet valve and trapping fuel under
the plunger and passages leading down to the needle valve. The fuel pressure increases as the
plunger continues its downward stroke.
A flat disk check valve is built into the injector fuel passages between the plunger and the tip.
This check valve normally has no effect on the injection process, but will function to prevent high
pressure cylinder gases from blowing back into the injector and fuel system.
This fuel pressure acts on the needle valve. When it creates a force high enough to overcome the
needle valve spring force holding the needle valve on its seat, the needle valve moves up, allowing
the high pressure fuel to spray into the combustion chamber. The high pressure of the fuel passing
through the small holes in the tip creates a finely atomized spray for combustion in the cylinder.
After the "pulse width" time has passed (measured in degrees of crankshaft rotation), the ECM
turns off the current to the injector solenoid. The de-energized solenoid allows a spring to open
the poppet valve, permitting the trapped fuel to spill down, dropping the fuel pressure within the
injector. When the pressure is low enough, the needle valve closes and ends injection.
The beginning of injection and fuel metering in relation to the crankshaft position are controlled
by the ECM. Injection begins soon after the poppet valve is closed. The valve closing point
information, known as "the response time feedback," is returned to the ECM. This information is
used to monitor and adjust injection timing, thus removing injector-to-injector variation influences
on timing. The amount of fuel injected, is derived from fuel tables stored in the calibrating
software of the ECM. The amount of pulse width determines how long the poppet valve remains
closed. The larger the pulse width, the longer the valve is closed, and the more fuel is injected.
When the injector rocker arm has completed its downward travel, the injector follower spring
returns it to the starting position. As the plunger moves up, fuel enters the injector plunger cavity
for another injection cycle. The constant circulation of fuel through the injector renews the fuel
supply in the chamber and helps cool the injector.

2.3.1 Repair or Replacement of Electronic Unit Injector

See Figure 2-33.
Figure 2-33 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Electronic Unit Injector
2.3.2 Removal of Electronic Unit Injector
Remove the electronic unit injector as follows:

1. Clean and remove the valve rocker cover. Refer to section 1.6.

NOTICE:
Use caution to prevent damage to the fuel stand pipes and
crossover lines during removal.
2. Remove the fuel inlet and outlet crossover lines from the injector and fuel stand pipes in
the cylinder head.
3. Remove the two rocker shaft thru-bolts. Push the rocker shaft assembly back, away from
the injector.
4. Loosen the injector wire terminal screws two full turns, and remove the terminal wires.
NOTICE:
Extreme care should be used when handling the EUI to avoid
costly damage by dropping or mishandling the injector.
NOTICE:
Do not remove the terminal screws from the injector. The wire
terminals have keyhole slots to fit over the screw head. Turning
the screws too far will damage the threads in the injector solenoid
housing.

5. Lift the injector from its seat in the cylinder head by inserting a pry bar under the injector
body. See Figure 2-34.
1. Solenoid Terminal Leads 6. Hold Down Bolt

2. Pry Bar 7. Washer
3. Fuel Crossover Tubes 8. Hold Down Crab
4. Rocker Arm Assemblies 9. EUI Electrical Harness
5. Electronic Unit Injector 10. Fuel Stand Pipe
Figure 2-34 Removing Electronic Unit Injector
NOTE:
After removing an injector, cover the injector tube cavity in the cylinder head to keep
out foreign material.

2.3.2.1 Cleaning of Electronic Unit Injector
Clean the EUI as follows:
NOTICE:
To avoid damaging them, do not wire brush the spray holes.
1. Using wire buffing wheel J 7944, remove carbon from the injector exterior, where the
injector tip joins the nut.
2. Clean the injector exterior with clean solvent.
EYE INJURY
3. Dry it with compressed air.
2.3.3 Disassembly of Electronic Unit Injector
On a Series 92 EUI, only the injector solenoid and seal rings are not serviceable. The injector
must not be disassembled.
2.3.3.1 Inspection of Electronic Unit Injector
Inspect the EUI as follows:

1. Install tool J 34760-147A (from set J 34760-B) injector pop-n-fixture, and test the injector.
See Figure 2-35.
NOTE:
Do not test new or reliabilt remanufactured electronic unit injectors prior to installation in
the engine. The Kent-Moore POP stand should only be used as a diagnostic tool on fuel
injectors that have been removedfrom an engine.
[a] If necessary, replace the solenoid. Refer to section 2.3.4.

[b] If the injector is performing satisfactorily, it may be reused. Proceed with inspection.
1. Lever 4 Up-Flow to Clamp; Down-Flow to Injector 6. Pump Lever 1

2. Rocker Arm Engagement-Lever 3 7. Gage 2
3. Plunger Position-Lever 2 8. Electrical Unit Injector
4. Gage 1 9. Lever 5 Up-Valve Closed for Clamping; Down-Valve
Open to Release Clamp
5. Gage Dampening Valve
Figure 2-35 Injector in Position for Testing with Tester J 34760-147A from
Set J 34760-B
2. Visually inspect the O-ring for damage, cuts, nicks or deterioration. See Figure 2-36.
[a] If damaged, replace the O-ring. Refer to section 2.3.4.

[b] If undamaged, the O-ring may be reused. Proceed with inspection.
1. O-ring Seal 6. Solenoid

2. Electronic Unit Body 7. Solenoid Seal (2)
3. Follower Spring Stop 8. Spacer Plate
4. Solenoid Bolts (4) 9. Armature
5. Load Plate
Figure 2-36 Inspection of Electronic Unit Injector
3. Visually inspect the injector tubes in the cylinder head for evidence of coolant leaks or
damage at the injector seat.
[a] If damaged, replace the injector tubes. Refer to section 2.4.3.
[b] If undamaged, the injector may be installed.

2.3.4 Installation of Electronic Unit Injector
Install the electronic unit injector as follows:

1. Insert the injector into the appropriate injector tube bore. See Figure 2-37.
1. Solenoid Terminal Leads 5. Hold Down Bolt

2. Fuel Crossover Tubes 6. Washer
3. Rocker Arm Assemblies 7. Hold Down Crab
4. Electronic Unit injector 8. Fuel Stand Pipe
Figure 2-37 Installation of Electronic Unit Injector
2. Visually align the injector body for equal clearance between the valve springs.
NOTE:
There is no locating dowel pin on the underside of the EUI.

3. After aligning the injector, seat the injector by pressing down on the top of the injector
with the heel of your hand.
4. Tighten the injector crab bolt to 27.12-33.9 N·m (20-25 lb·ft).
5. Tighten the rocker shaft bolts to 122-135.6 N·m (90-100 lb·ft).
6. Tighten the jumper tube nuts to 16.16 N·m (143 lb·in.).
NOTE:
Make sure O-ring seals are in place at the end of each jumper tube nut.
7. Set the injector timing. Refer to section 12.3.

8. Adjust valve clearances. Refer to section 12.2.
9. Install the EUI terminal wires by positioning the keyhole in the terminal over the screw
in the injector solenoid housing.
10. Pull the terminal end down so that the screw rests in the smaller slot in the terminal.
11. Tighten the screws to 1.36-1.92 N·m (12-17 lb·in).
NOTE:
Do not bend the terminals down after installation.
12. With rocker arms in place, install the rocker arm shafts. Refer to section 1.4.9.
13. Adjust the intake and exhaust valve clearances and injector height. Refer to section 12.2.
14. Install the rocker cover. Refer to section 1.6.5.

2.4 FUEL INJECTOR TUBE
The bore in the cylinder head (for the fuel injector) is directly through the cylinder head water
jacket. See Figure 2-39.
NOTICE:
Only ethylene glycol base antifreeze should be used in Detroit
Diesel engines. Methyl alcohol base antifreeze has an adverse
effect on the fluoroelastomer seal rings in the cylinder head.
To prevent coolant from contacting the injector and still maintain maximum cooling of the
injector, a tube is pressed into the injector bore. This tube is sealed at the top with a neoprene
ring and upset into a flare on the lower side of the cylinder head to create watertight and gastight
joints at the top and bottom.
The large Inside diameter (30.4292-30.5054 mm vs. 29.972-30.0482 mm or 1.198-1.201 in.
vs. 1.180-1.183 in.), the Detroit Diesel logo, and the number "606" stamped on the top flange
distinguishes the injector hole tube from the former.

2.4.1 Repair or Replacement of Fuel Injector Tube

See Figure 2-38.
Figure 2-38 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Fuel Injector Tube
2.4.2 Removal of Fuel Injector Tube
Use injector tube service tool set J 22525-B to remove the injector tube as follows:
1. Remove, disassemble, and clean the cylinder head. Refer to section 1.3.

2. Place the injector tube installer J 5286-4C (from set J 22525-B in the injector tube.
NOTE:
This tool or installer J 5286-4C (from set J 22525-B) may be used with semi-finished,
service-only injector hole tubes (identified by the number "606" stamped on the top
flange).
3. Insert the pilot J 5286-5 (from set J 22525-B) through the small opening of the injector
tube, and thread the pilot into the tapped hole in the end of the installer. See Figure 2-39.
1. Cylinder Head
Figure 2-39 Removing Injector Tube with Tools J 5286-4C and J 5286-5 from
Set J 22525-B
4. Tap the end of the pilot to loosen the injector tube.

5. Lift the injector tube, installer, and pilot from the cylinder head.
2.4.2.1 Inspection of Fuel Injector Tube
Inspect the fuel injector tube as follows:

1. Inspect the fuel injector tube for leaks.
[a] If a leak is detected, seal the injector tube leak. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
[b] If no leaks are detected, reuse the fuel injector tube.

2.4.3 Installation of Fuel Injector Tube
Install the fuel injector tube as follows:

1. Thoroughly clean the injector tube hole in the cylinder head to remove dirt, burrs or foreign
material that may prevent the tube from seating at the lower end or sealing at the upper end.
NOTICE:
DO NOT lubricate the outside of the injector tube or inside the
cylinder head injector tube bore. Lubricant will cause the tube to
turn during reaming or rolling operations and possibly damage
the injector tube or reamers.
FIRE
vapors:
2. Lubricate the new injector tube seal ring with engine oil, and place it in the counterbore in
the cylinder head.

3. Place the installer J 5286-4C (from set J 22525-B) in the injector tube. Insert the pilot
J 5286-6 (from set J 22525-B) through the small opening of the injector tube, and thread it
into the tapped end of the installer. See Figure 2-40.
1. Cylinder Head 2. Fuel Injector Tube
Figure 2-40 Installing Injector Tube with Tools J 5286-4C and J 5286-5 from
Set J 22525-B
NOTE:
For proper installation of any injector tube, the tool must contact the tube at the bottom
before it touches the flange at the top. The clearance at the top, between the flange and
the tool, should be 0.025-0.254 mm (0.001-0.010 in.).
4. Slip the injector tube into the injector bore, and drive it in place.
NOTE:
Sealing is accomplished between the head counterbore (inside diameter) and outside
diameter of the injector tube. The tube flange is used to retain the seal ring.

NOTICE:
During installation, the tube will stretch slightly before the tool
contacts the flange, allowing the tool to properly install the tube.
If there is no clearance at the flange, the tube will buckle slightly
during installation until the tool contacts the tube at the lower end.
The buckling causes compressive stress, that will allow the tube
to crack during engine operation, subsequently causing engine
damage.
5. Turn the cylinder head bottom side up, remove the pilot J 5286-5 (from set J 22525-B), and
thread tool J 5286-6 (from set J 22525-B) into the tapped end of the installer J 5286-4C
(from setJ 22525-B). See Figure 2-41.
1. Cylinder Head
Figure 2-41 Upsetting Injector Tube with Tools J 5286-4C and J 5286-6 from
Set J 22525-B
6. Using a socket and torque wrench, apply approximately 41 N·m (30 lb·ft) torque on the die.
7. Remove the installing tools.

NOTICE:
The current tube takes less time to install than the former tube
because the large inside diameter of the new tube does not
require reaming. Reaming is only necessary at the small inside
diameter and the injector nut seat. To avoid cutting through the
thin wall of the injector tube, do not ream forcefully or rapidly.
NOTE:
With the cylinder head right side up and the injector tube free from dirt, hand ream to
receive the injector body nut and spray tip. See Figure 2-42.
1. Cylinder Head
Figure 2-42 Reaming Injector Tube for Injector Body Nut and Spray Tip with
Tool J 22525-1 from Set J 22525-B
8. Place a few drops of light cutting oil on the reamer flutes, and position the reamer
J 22525-1 (from set J 22525-B) in the injector tube.
NOTICE:
The reamer should be turned in a clockwise direction only, both
when inserting and when withdrawing the reamer. Movement in
the opposite direction will dull the cutting edges of the flutes.
9. Turn the reamer clockwise (withdrawing the reamer frequently for chip removal) until the
lower shoulder of the reamer contacts the injector tube.

10. Clean out all of the chips.

11. With the cylinder head bottom side up, insert the pilot of cutting tool J 5286-8 (from set
J 22525-B) into the small hole of the injector tube.
12. Place a few drops of cutting oil on the tool. Using a socket and a speed handle, remove the
excess stock so that the lower end of the injector tube is from flush to 0.13 mm (0.005 in.)
below the finished surface of the cylinder head.
13. Wash the interior of the injector tube with clean solvent.

EYE INJURY
NOTE:
Any firedeck resurfacing work must be done prior to final injector tube seat gaging.
Refer to section 1.3.3.1 for resurfacing instructions.
NOTE:
Hand ream the tube to provide a good seating surface for the bevel and the lower end of
the injector nut. See Figure 2-43.
1. Cylinder Head
Figure 2-43 Reaming Injector Tube for Injector Nut with Tool J 5286-9C from
Set J 22525-B
15. The tapered lower end of the injector tube must provide a smooth and true seat for the
lower end of the injector nut to effectively seal the cylinder pressures and properly position

the injector tip in the combustion chamber. Determine the amount of stock that must be
reamed from the bevel seat of the tube. See Figure 2-44.
1. Cylinder Head 2. Injector Tube
Figure 2-44 Measuring Relationship of Injector Tube Bevel Seat to Cylinder

Head Firedeck with Tool J 25521 (from set J 22525-B) and Gage
J 22273-01
16. Place a few drops of cutting oil on the bevel seat of the tube. Carefully lower the reamer
J 5286-9C (from set J 22525-B) into the injector tube until it contacts the bevel seat.
17. Without applying any downward force on the reamer, turn it steadily to make a trial cut.
18. Remove the reamer, and blow out the chips.
19. Check the bevel seat to find what portion of the seat has been cut.
20. Proceed carefully with the reaming operation, withdrawing the reamer occasionally to
observe the progress.
21. Remove the chips from the injector tube.

22. Zero the sled gage dial indicator J 22273-01 to the firedeck, and continue the reaming
operation until the shoulder of the spray tip is flush to ± 0.356 mm (± 0.014 in.) with the
firedeck of the cylinder head. See Figure 2-45.
1. Cylinder Head 2. Injector Tube
Figure 2-45 Measuring Relationship of Gage to Cylinder Head Firedeck with

Tool J 25521 (from set J 22525-B)
EYE INJURY
23. Wash the interior of the injector tube with clean solvent, and dry it with compressed air.
24. Assemble and install the cylinder head. Refer to section 1.3.4, and refer to section 1.3.5.

2.5 ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROLS
Detroit Diesel Electronic Controls (DDEC) determine the timing and amount of fuel injected by
the Electronic Unit Injectors (EUI). DDEC also monitors several engine functions via electrical
sensors that send electrical signals to the Electronic Control Module (ECM). The ECM processes
incoming data and determines the proper fuel output and timing to ensure optimum engine
performance. The ECM also displays warnings or shuts down the engine to prevent serious
engine damage in the case of low oil pressure, low coolant level/pressure, or high oil and/or
coolant temperature.
NOTE:
This engine is equipped with DDEC software. This software generally assures optimal
engine performance. The installation of software upgrades may cause minor changes in
features and engine performance.
Some Series 92 engines feature DDEC I (not pictured) or DDEC II electronic controls. Later
model engines have the third generation system, DDEC III. See Figure 2-46.
Figure 2-46 Detroit Diesel Electronic Control Modules (DDEC)
2.5.1 DDEC Diagnostic Procedures
Before attempting any diagnosis of the DDEC Control System, refer to the DDEC II
Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE489. Basic mechanical checks should be made first to verify
the problem is not fuel or air delivery related, and that the problem is electrical. If basic
mechanical checks fail to locate the problem, start the DDEC diagnosis with the Troubleshooting
Charts printed in the DDEC II Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE489 or DDEC III/IV Single ECM
Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE497.

The hand-held DDR is used on DDEC II and DDEC III controlled engines to display engine
description, diagnostic data, fault codes, and to program the ECM. A printout of the information
displayed on the DDR can be obtained by attaching a printer. See Figure 2-47 for the diagnostic
data reader kit J 38500-H, includes a reader, cable, carrying case, DDEC cartridge, manual, and a
6-pin adaptor. Refer to section 2.7 for additional DDEC III information.
NOTE:
There are a number of DDR software cartridges available for the DDR. Contact your
nearest Detroit Diesel authorized distributor for information on the correct software
cartridge available for your current engine application needs.
Figure 2-47 Diagnostic Data Reader (DDR)
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from engine shutdown in an unsafe
situation, ensure the operator knows how to override the
stop engine condition on a DDEC-equipped unit.
PERSONAL INJURY
If a DDR is not available, the following procedure can be used to read the fault codes using
the "Check Engine" light.
If the vehicle or vessel is equipped with an OEM supplied diagnostic switch, hold the switch in
the "ON" position. This should be done with the ignition on and the engine not running.

If there is no diagnostic switch, locate the 12-pin Diagnostic Data Link (DDL) connector.
See Figure 2-48.
Figure 2-48 Diagnostic Data Link (DDL)
NOTICE:
If the machinery (vehicle or vessel) is equipped with an OEM
supplied diagnostic switch, the switch must NOT be switched on
when the vehicle, vessel or machine is in operation. If this is
done, the diagnostic mode line will be grounded, and the throttle
will be forced to the idle position, affecting equipment operation.
This condition will not occur when a diagnostic reader is used.
These methods will cause the "Check Engine" light to begin flashing a code when the ignition is
turned to the "ON" position. Code 25, for example, would be two flashes followed by a pause,
followed by five more flashes. This code would indicate no trouble codes logged since the last
system check. This flashing code will be repeated until the diagnostic switch is turned "OFF" or
the jumper wire is removed from pins A and M (DDEC II engines only).
If a code other than code 25 is read, refer to the correct chart in the DDEC II Troubleshooting
Guide, 6SE489, or in the DDEC III/IV Single ECM Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE497, for repair
instructions.
Fault codes can be cleared from the DDEC system only with a diagnostic reader (DDR). To clear
codes, follow the instructions provided with the reader.
NOTE:
Before beginning any repair procedures, the ignition switch must be in the "OFF" position.

Basic replacement procedures for DDEC components follow. Components should not be replaced
unless they have been correctly identified as defective using the DDEC II Troubleshooting Guide,
6SE489 or in the DDEC III/IV Single ECM Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE497.

2.6 DDEC II
2.6 DDEC II
The DDEC II ECM is packaged in a die-cast aluminum housing with sealed connectors.
The ECM is a microprocessor. It is the control center for the DDEC II and DDEC III systems.
See Figure 2-49 and see Figure 2-50 for the single block DDEC II and DDEC III configurations
and see Figure 2-51 for the multi-block DDEC III configuration.
Figure 2-49 DDEC II Schematic (6V and 8V)

Figure 2-50 DDEC III Schematic

2.6 DDEC II
Figure 2-51 DDEC III Schematic (12V and 16V)
The DDEC II system consists of the following components:

□ DDEC II ECM
□ Replaceable EEPROM
□ Connections to Various Sensors:
□ Engine Sensors (Engine Harnesses)
□ Operational Displays (Vehicle Harnesses)
□ Power (Power Harness)
□ Fuel Injectors (Injector Harnesses)
2.6.1 Repair or Replacement of the DDEC II ECM
The DDEC II ECM is a sealed, non-serviceable unit. It should be tagged for recore.

2.6.2 Removal of the DDEC II ECM
Remove the ECM as follows:

1. Carefully disengage the lock on the power harness and injector harness connections.
2. Remove the five wire harness connections at the ECM.
3. Remove the thru - bolts holding the ECM to the engine.
NOTICE:
Failure to seal the cooler plate openings after disconnecting them
may allow foreign material to enter the fuel system. This could
lead to serious fuel system damage and engine malfunction.
4. Remove the ECM and cold plate (if applicable) from the engine.
5. Remove the screws securing the cold plate to the ECM (if applicable). Remove the cold
plate.
2.6.3 Installation of the DDEC II ECM
Install the ECM as follows:
NOTE:
ECM cooler plate corrosion has occurred at work sites using high pressure engine
washing techniques. Prior to installing the ECM, apply DDC silver acrylic enamel paint

2.6 DDEC II
(5149996-12 oz spray can) to the ECM mating surface of the cooler plate. See Figure
2-52.
1. DDEC II ECM 3. Harness Heat Shield (Used on Series 92 Only)

2. Cooler/Heat Shield-to-ECM Self Tapping Bolts (8) 4. Cooler Plate
Figure 2-52 ECM and Cooler Plate Assembly (DDEC II)
NOTE:
If fuel leaks have occurred, install a new cooler plate.
1. Install the cold plate on the ECM (if applicable). Use Loctite 262, or equivalent, and
torque the screws to 114-144 N·m (84-106 lb·in.).
2. Apply anti - seize compound or equivalent on the cold plate - to - ECM screws. Torque
screws to 16 - 20 N·m (12 - 15 lb·ft).

NOTICE:
The ECM isolators must be installed. Failure to install the
isolators may lead to ECM damage caused by excessive
vibration, or erratic engine operation caused by electrical
potential difference.
3. Inspect the ECM isolators for damage. Replace, if necessary.

4. Mount the ECM and cold plate (if applicable) to the engine.
5. Secure the ECM to the engine with thru - bolts. Torque the ECM-to-engine bolts to 23-27
N·m (17-20 lb·ft).
6. Torque the ECM connector hold-down screws to 24-30 kg·cm (21-26 lb·in.).
7. Engage the lock tab on the power harness and injector harness connectors.
8. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position. Read any diagnostic codes. If any code other than
a code 25 is obtained, refer to the DDEC II Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE489, or in the
DDEC III/IV Single ECM Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE497
9. Start the engine, and check for fuel leaks.
For information on the 18SP479–Installation instructions for the 6V-92 EUI 0.10 g/bhp–hr PM
US EPA-Approved Emission Upgrade Kit, refer to installation instructions provided in upgrade
kit or refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for a brief summery.

2.7 DDEC III
2.7 DDEC III
DDEC III constantly monitors engine performance, with electronic sensors transmitting essential
engine data to the ECM. See Figure 2-53.
Figure 2-53 DDEC III Schematic
The DDEC III system consists of the following components:

□ DDEC III ECM
□ Programmable inputs and outputs

Any faults that occur are stored as codes in the memory of the ECM. These codes may be
accessed in three ways:
PERSONAL INJURY
PERSONAL INJURY
□ A Diagnostic Data Reader (DDR) can be used to read the codes.

□ A personal computer (PC) may be connected to the ECM through a translator device that
converts J1708 to RS232 protocol.
□ The Check Engine Light (CEL) or the Stop Engine Light (SEL) indicate engine conditions.
If the CEL, a panel mounted yellow indicator light, is illuminated, this indicates a condition that
should be diagnosed as soon as convenient.
NOTICE:
If both the CEL and SEL, a panel mounted red indicator light,
are illuminated, a major engine fault has occurred and immediate
attention is required to avoid potential serious engine damage.
An automatic engine shutdown feature is available. A shutdown override switch is required to

allow the engine to be operated during automatic shutdown or rampdown.
2.7.1 Repair or Replacement of DDEC III ECM
The DDEC III ECM is a sealed, non-serviceable unit. It should be tagged for recore.
2.7.2 Removal of DDEC III ECM
Perform the following steps for ECM removal:

1. Carefully disengage the lock tab on the power harness and injector harness connectors.
2. Remove all the wire harness connections at the ECM.

2.7 DDEC III
NOTICE:
plate.
NOTE:
All electrical connector cleaning must be kept to a minimum. When cleaning is required,
DDC recommends using LPS Electro Contact Cleaner. For areas that require CFC-free
products, LPS No Flash Electro Contact Cleaner is available in a 16 oz. spray can
under part number 03416. For the name of the distributor in your area, contact the
manufacturer at: LPS Laboratories 4647 Hugh Howell Road Tucker, GA 30084 Phone:
(800) 241-8334 Fax: (404) 493-9206 Toll free for US and Canada

2.7.3 Installation of DDEC III ECM
See Figure 2-54 and install the ECM as follows :
1. DDEC III ECM 3. Cooler/Heat Shield-to-ECM Self Tapping

Bolts (8) (Series 92 Only)
2. Harness Heat Shield (Used on Series 92 Only 4. Cooler Plate
Figure 2-54 ECM and Cooler Plate Assembly (DDEC III)
NOTE:

2.7 DDEC III
Engines having more than 8 cylinders require 2 or more ECMs to handle the additional injectors.
See Figure 2-55.
1. Fuel Coolers 3. Master ECM

2. Cooler Plate 4. Receiver ECM
Figure 2-55 Dual ECM and Cooler Plate Assembly (DDEC III)
1. Install the cold plate on the ECM (if applicable). Use Loctite 262, or equivalent, and
torque the screws to 114-143 N·m (84-106 lb·in.).

NOTICE:
The ECM isolators must be reinstalled. Failure to reinstall
the isolators may lead to ECM damage caused by excessive

3. Mount the ECM and cold plate (if applicable) to the engine.
4. Secure the ECM to the engine with thru - bolts. Torque the ECM-to-engine bolts to 23-27
N·m (17-20 lb·ft).
5. Torque the ECM connector hold-down screws to 24-30 kg cm (21-26 lb·in.).
6. Connect the two-wire and three-wire harness and injector harness connectors.
a code 25 is obtained, refer to the DDEC II Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE489, or in the
DDEC III/IV Single ECM Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE497, for repair instructions.

2.8 DDEC IV
2.8 DDEC IV
DDEC IV constantly monitors engine performance, with electronic sensors transmitting essential
engine data to the ECM. See Figure 2-56.
Figure 2-56 DDEC IV Schematic
The DDEC IV system consists of the following components:

□ DDEC IV ECM
□ Programmable inputs and outputs

Any faults that occur are stored as codes in the memory of the ECM. These codes may be
accessed in three ways:
PERSONAL INJURY
PERSONAL INJURY
□ A Diagnostic Data Reader (DDR) can be used to read the codes.

□ A personal computer (PC) may be connected to the ECM through a translator device that
converts J1708 to RS232 protocol.
□ The Check Engine Light (CEL) or the Stop Engine Light (SEL) indicate engine conditions.
If the CEL, a panel mounted yellow indicator light, is illuminated, this indicates a condition that
should be diagnosed as soon as convenient.
NOTICE:
If both the CEL and SEL, a panel mounted red indicator light,
are illuminated, a major engine fault has occurred and immediate
attention is required to avoid potential serious engine damage.
An automatic engine shutdown feature is available. A shutdown override switch is required to

allow the engine to be operated during automatic shutdown or rampdown.
2.8.1 Repair or Replacement of DDEC IV ECM
The DDEC IV ECM is a sealed, non-serviceable unit. It should be tagged for recore.
2.8.2 Removal of DDEC IV ECM
Perform the following steps for ECM removal:

1. Carefully disengage the lock tab on the power harness and injector harness connectors.
2. Remove all the wire harness connections at the ECM.

2.8 DDEC IV
NOTICE:
plate.
NOTE:
All electrical connector cleaning must be kept to a minimum. When cleaning is required,
DDC recommends using LPS Electro Contact Cleaner. For areas that require CFC-free
products, LPS No Flash Electro Contact Cleaner is available in a 16 oz. spray can
under part number 03416. For the name of the distributor in your area, contact the
manufacturer at: LPS Laboratories 4647 Hugh Howell Road Tucker, GA 30084 Phone:
(800) 241-8334 Fax: (404) 493-9206 Toll free for US and Canada

2.8.3 Installation of DDEC IV ECM
Install the ECM as follows, see Figure 2-57:
1. DDEC IV ECM 3. Self Tapping Bolt

2. Cooling Plate 4. Heat Shield
Figure 2-57 ECM and Cooler Plate Assembly (DDEC IV)
NOTE:
Engines having more than 8 cylinders require 2 or more ECMs to handle the additional injectors.
1. Apply DDC/Loctite anti-seize compound or equivalent, to the cold plate-to-ECM screws.
Place cold plate on ECM, install screws, and torque to 16–20 N·m (12–15 lb·ft). Install
ECM heat shield.

2.8 DDEC IV
NOTICE:
The ECM isolators must be reinstalled. Failure to reinstall
the isolators may lead to ECM damage caused by excessive

3. Secure the ECM mounting bracket to the engine.
4. Secure the ECM to the bracket, torque to 23-27 N·m (17-20 lb·ft).
5. Install the 9/16 in. –18 elbow in the fuel block.

6. Install the engine sensor harness. See Figure 2-58.
1. Power Harness Assembly 6. Heat Shield

2. Power Harness Adaptor 7. DDEC IV ECM
3. Communication Harness Cover 8. Engine Harness (30 Pin)
4. Vehicle Harness (30 Pin) 9. DDC-Supplied Engine and Injector Harnesses
5. Cooling Plate 10. Injector Harnesses
Figure 2-58 Location of Engine Harness
7. Torque the ECM connector hold-down screws to 24-30 kg-cm (21-26 lb·in.).
8. Connect the two-wire and three-wire harness and injector harness connectors.

2.8 DDEC IV
10. For information on the 6V-92 EUI 0.10 g/bhp-hr PM US EPA–approved upgrade kit,
refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, or the 18SP479 installation instructions
provided with upgrade kit.
a code 25 is obtained, refer to the DDEC III/IV Single ECM Troubleshooting Guide,
6SE497 for repair instructions.

2.9 ELECTRONIC FOOT PEDAL ASSEMBLY
The Electronic Foot Pedal Assembly (EFPA) connects the accelerator pedal to the Throttle
Position Sensor (TPS). The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) sends an electrical signal, varying in
voltage according to the amount the pedal is depressed, to the ECM. The system is installed in
place of the mechanical foot pedal. The travel of the foot pedal is limited by the manufacturer,
no adjustment is required. See Figure 2-59.
1. Electronic Foot Pedal Assembly 2. Throttle Position Sensor
Figure 2-59 Electronic Foot Pedal Assembly
2.9.1 Repair or Replacement of Electronic Foot Pedal Assembly
The EFPA assembly is supplied by the vehicle manufacturer. Refer to the Original Equipment
Manufacturer for the service procedure.

2.10 TURBO BOOST SENSOR
The Turbo Boost Sensor (TBS) is bracket-mounted to the engine. A short hose runs from the
sensor to the air inlet housing. See Figure 2-60 and see Figure 2-61.
1. Clamps (2) 6. Bracket

2. Turbo Boost Sensor 7. Locking Bolt
3. Bolt 8. Hose
4. Lock Washer 9. Adaptor
5. Plain Washer
Figure 2-60 Turbo Boost Sensor and Mounting Hardware Assembly

1. Turbo Boost Sensor 4. Turbo Boost Sensor

2. Turbo Boost Sensor Connector 5. Fuel Pump
3. Turbo Boost Sensor Connector
Figure 2-61 Turbo Boost Sensor (12V and 16V)
The TBS sends an electrical signal to the ECM. The ECM uses the TBS signal to compute the
amount of air entering the engine. The information obtained by the TBS is used by the ECM to
regulate the fuel supply which controls engine smoke.
2.10.1 Repair or Replacement of Turbo Boost Sensor
The TBS is non-serviceable and must be replaced as an assembly. No adjustment is required.
2.10.2 Removal of Turbo Boost Sensor
With the engine (ignition) off remove the TBS as follows:

1. Disengage the locking tang on the TBS connector body.

2. Grasp the terminal body, and gently pull it from the sensor.
3. Remove the hose from the TBS.
4. Remove the two bolts that secure the TBS to the bracket.
5. Remove the TBS.
2.10.3 Installation of Turbo Boost Sensor
With the engine (ignition) off install the TBS as follows:
NOTICE:
The TBS is an electronic component. Use care when installing
to prevent damage.
1. Place TBS on engine.

2. Install the two bolts that secure the TBS to the bracket. Torque to 2.35-2.94 N·m
(21-26 lb·in).
3. Attach the hose to the TBS.
4. Place the terminal body on the sensor.
5. Engage the locking tang on the TBS connector body.
6. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position. Observe or read any diagnostic codes. If any code
other than 25 appears, refer to the DDEC II Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE489 or DDEC
III/IV Single ECM Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE497.
7. Check for air leaks.

2.11 OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
The Oil Pressure Sensor (OPS) is installed in the main engine oil gallery. See Figure 2-62 and
see Figure 2-63.
Figure 2-62 Oil Pressure Sensor

2.11 OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
1. Oil Pressure Sensor 2. Oil Temperature Sensor
Figure 2-63 Oil Pressure Sensor and Oil Temperature Sensor (12V and 16V)
The OPS electronically signals the ECM what the engine oil pressure is at any given speed. If the
ECM receives a low oil pressure signal exceeding seven seconds, it will initialize the stop engine
or warning function. Shutdown is calculated as a function of engine RPM & Pressure.
2.11.1 Repair or Replacement of Oil Pressure Sensor
The OPS is non-serviceable and should be replaced as a unit. No adjustment is required.
2.11.2 Removal of Oil Pressure Sensor
With the engine (ignition) off remove the OPS as follows:

1. Disengage the locking tang on the three-wire connector.

2. Grasp the connector body, and gently pull it free of the OPS.
3. Unscrew the hex end of the OPS with the appropriate wrench.
2.11.3 Installation of Oil Pressure Sensor
With the engine (ignition) off install the OPS as follows:
NOTICE:
The OPS is an electronic device. Use care when installing to
prevent damage.
1. To prevent leaks, apply Loctite 567 pipe sealant with Teflon, (or equivalent) on all but
the first two threads of the OPS.
NOTE:
Effective September 1991 the new OPS does not require Loctite. Use a 1.25 in. deep
well socket.
2. Screw the OPS onto the engine with a hex wrench.

3. Attach the connector body to the OPS.
4. Engage the locking tang on the three-wire connector.
25 is obtained, refer to the DDEC III/IV Single ECM Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE497.
6. Check for oil leaks. Refer to section 13.5.3.

2.12 OIL TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The Oil Temperature Sensor (OTS) is installed in the main engine oil gallery. The OTS
electronically signals the ECM, indicating engine oil temperature. The ECM modifies engine
speed for better cold weather starts and faster warm-ups based on the OTS signals. Oil
temperatures exceeding programmed specification for two seconds or more will initialize the stop
engine or warning function. See Figure 2-64 and see Figure 2-65.
Figure 2-64 Oil Temperature Sensor

1. Oil Pressure Sensor 2. Oil Temperature Sensor
Figure 2-65 Oil Temperature Sensor and Oil Pressure Sensor (12V and 16V)
2.12.1 Repair or Replacement of Oil Temperature Sensor
The OTS is non-serviceable and must be replaced as a unit. No adjustment is required.
2.12.2 Removal of Oil Temperature Sensor
With engine (ignition) off remove the OTS as follows:

1. Disengage the locking tang on the two-wire connector.
2. Grasp the connector body, and gently pull it from the socket.
3. Unscrew the hex portion of the sensor with the appropriate wrench.

2.12.3 Installation of Oil Temperature Sensor
With engine (ignition) off install the OTS as follows:
NOTICE:
The Oil Temperature Sensor is an electronic device. Use care
when installing to prevent damage.
1. To prevent leaks, apply Loctite pipe sealer with Teflon 567 (or equivalent) on all but
the first two threads of the OTS.
2. Install the OTS sensor with a hex wrench.
3. Press the connector body into the socket.
4. Engage the locking tang on the two-wire connector.
25 is obtained, refer to the DDEC II Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE489 or DDEC III/IV
Single ECM Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE497.
6. Check for oil leaks.

2.13 PULSE WHEEL DDEC III AND II (6V AND 8V ENGINES)
The following is an overview of the DDEC III pulse wheel. An overview for the DDEC II pulse
wheel will follow. Procedures in this section apply to both DDEC II an III.
The pulse wheel is a metal disc that is mounted to the rear of the left camshaft pulley. See Figure
2-66.
1. Allen Screw (Tapered Head) 5. Dowel Holes

2. Pulse Wheel 6. Camshaft Pulley
3. Timing Reference Sensor Signal Teeth (36) 7. Notch
4. Synchronous Reference Sensor Tooth (1)
Figure 2-66 Pulse Wheel and Camshaft Pulley DDEC III (6V and 8V-92)
The raised metal teeth generate a signal in the Synchronous Reference Sensor (SRS) and Timing
Reference Sensor (TRS). The ECM uses these signals to determine engine speed to locate the
number one cylinder and to determine the piston positions for fuel injection.

For DDEC III and IV, one wheel is used for the 6V and 8V-92 engines regardless of rotation. The
pulse wheel is used on all 6V and 8V-92 engines. See Figure 2-67. A groove is machined on the
outer edge of the wheel. This corresponds to the TRS pin used for proper timing of the TRS sensor.
1. Dowel Holes 3. Timing Reference Sensor Signal Teeth (36)

2. Synchronous Reference Sensor Signal Tooth (1)
Figure 2-67 Pulse Wheel DDEC III (6V and 8V-92)
This wheel has a total of 37 raised metal teeth. Two holes are provided that mate with dowels at
the rear of the cam pulley. A staggered bolt pattern prohibits improper installation.
DDEC II Pulse Wheel Overview

The pulse wheel is a metal disc that is mounted to the rear of the left camshaft pulley. See Figure
2-68.
1. Camshaft Pulley 3. Pulse Wheel

2. Teeth
Figure 2-68 Pulse Wheel and Camshaft Pulley DDEC II (6V-92)
The raised metal teeth generate a signal in the Synchronous Reference Sensor (SRS) and Timing
Reference Sensor (TRS). The ECM uses these signals to determine engine speed to locate the
number one cylinder and to determine the piston positions for fuel injection.
One of three different wheels may be installed in DDEC II, depending on engine rotation and
number of cylinders.

See Figure 2-69. This wheel has a total of thirteen raised teeth. Two holes are provided that mate
with dowels at the rear of the cam pulley. A staggered bolt pattern prohibits improper installation.
1. Teeth 2. Dowel Holes
Figure 2-69 Pulse Wheel DDEC II (8V-92)

Two different pulse wheels are used on 6V-92 engines, depending on the direction of rotation of
the engine. With the double row of teeth on the pulse wheel at the twelve o'clock position, note
the location of the dowel holes. See Figure 2-70.
1. Left-Hand Rotation 3. Right-Hand Rotation

2. Double Teeth 4. Dowel Holes
The direction of engine rotation is determined by viewing the engine from the front or fan end. On right-hand rotation engines, the
crank pulley rotates clockwise. On left-hand rotation engines, the crank pulley rotates counterclockwise.
Figure 2-70 Pulse Wheel DDEC II (6V-92) Depicting Engine Rotation
2.13.1 Repair or Replacement of Pulse Wheel
The pulse wheel is non-serviceable.
2.13.2 Removal of Pulse Wheel
The replacement of the pulse wheel will require adjustment of the Synchronous Reference Sensor
(SRS) and Timing Reference Sensor (TRS). Refer to section 2.15.3.1. Remove the pulse wheel
as follows:
1. Loosen and remove the drive belt(s) from the left camshaft pulley, if equipped.
2. Loosen and remove the nut and washer securing the left cam pulley to the end of the
camshaft.

NOTICE:
Do not pry the pulse wheel to remove it. You may bend the pulse
wheel or damage the teeth.
3. Attach puller J 24420-C to the camshaft pulley.

4. Use adaptor J 7932 between the end of the camshaft and the puller screw to protect the
end of the camshaft. See Figure 2-71.
1. RH Balance Weight and Camshaft Assembly 2. LH Camshaft Pulley
Figure 2-71 Puller J 24420-C and Adaptor J 7932
5. Remove the four Allen-type flat head screws that retain the pulse wheel to the cam pulley.
Remove the pulse wheel.
2.13.2.1 Inspection of Pulse Wheel
Inspect the pulse wheel as follows:

1. Inspect the pulse wheel for damage:
[a] If the pulse wheel is bent or deformed, or if teeth are bent or missing, replace pulse
wheel.
[b] If the wheel is not bent, and not teeth are missing, refer to section 2.13.3.

2.13.3 Installation of Pulse Wheel
Install the pulse wheel as follows:

1. Locate the two small holes in the pulse wheel over the dowels in the rear of the cam pulley.
2. Use Loctite 262, or equivalent, on the four Allen-type flat head screws, and secure the
pulse wheel to the cam pulley.
3. If removed, replace the Woodruff key to the slot in the camshaft.
4. Index the slot on the cam pulley to the Woodruff key, and start the pulley on the end of
the camshaft.
5. Use a fiber mallet or plastic hammer to lightly tap the cam pulley onto the end of the
camshaft.
6. Install the nut and lock washer to the end of the camshaft, and tighten to 407-441 N·m
(300-325 lb·ft.) torque.
7. Adjust the SRS/TRS to pulse wheel air gap. Refer to section 2.15.3.1.
8. Install the drive belts.
9. Adjust the belt tension. Refer to section 13.18.

2.14 SYNCHRONOUS REFERENCE SENSOR (6V AND 8V)
The Synchronous Reference Sensor (SRS) is an electronic component that sends a signal to the
Electronic Control Module (ECM). See Figure 2-72 and see Figure 2-72.
1. Timing Reference Sensor 2. Synchronous Reference Sensor
Figure 2-72 SRS/TRS Reference Sensor (6V and 8V)

1. Synchronous Reference Sensor 2. Once Per Revolution Pin
Figure 2-73 Synchronous Reference Sensor (12V and 16V)
The SRS references firing position for the number one piston. The SRS assembly is mounted
through the engine front end plate at the top, left corner of the engine. See Figure 2-74.
Figure 2-74 Location of SRS and TRS

A tooth on the timing wheel, that is bolted to the left bank camshaft gear, passes the SRS once
per revolution, signalling the ECM to determine engine speed.
2.14.1 Repair or Replacement of Synchronous Reference Sensor
The SRS is non-serviceable and must be replaced as a unit.
2.14.2 Removal of Synchronous Reference Sensor
Remove the SRS as follows:

1. Remove the heat shield, cold plate, and ECM. Refer to section 2.6.2(DDEC II),
refer to section 2.7.2(DDEC III), or refer to section 2.8.2(DDEC IV).
2. Loosen and remove the four bolts and washers retaining the ECM bracket to the engine.
3. Loosen and remove the two bolts and washers retaining the ECM bracket to the blower
end plate.
4. Remove the ECM bracket from the engine.
5. Remove any hoses or fuel lines necessary to gain access to the sensors.
6. Disengage the locking tang on the SRS connector.
7. Grasp the connector bodies, and gently pull them apart.
8. Remove the SRS retaining screw and clip.
9. Remove the sensor assembly.
10. If the pulse wheel or engine front end plate has been removed or replaced, loosen the
two sensor-retaining socket head screws.
2.14.3 Inspection of Synchronous Reference Sensor
Inspect the SRS as follows:

1. Inspect sensor contact for damage.
[a] If contact damage to the pulse wheel or pin at the harness connector is found, replace
the SRS sensor. Refer to section 2.14.4.
[b] If no sensor damage is found, refer to section 2.14.4.
2.14.4 Installation of Synchronous Reference Sensor
Install the SRS as follows:

NOTICE:
The SRS is an electronic component. Use care when installing,
to prevent damage
FIRE
vapors:
1. If the pulse wheel or engine front end plate has been removed or replaced, tighten the two
sensor-retaining socket head screws. Refer to section 2.15.3.1.
2. Install the sensor assembly.
3. Attach the SRS retaining screw and clip.
4. Press the connector bodies together.
5. Engage the locking tang on the SRS connector.
6. Replace any hoses or fuel lines previously removed.
7. Install the ECM bracket.
8. Install and tighten the two bolts and washers connecting the ECM bracket to the blower
end plate.
9. Install and tighten the four bolts and washers connecting the ECM bracket to the engine.
10. Refer to section 2.6.3(DDEC II), refer to section 2.7.3(DDEC III), or refer to section
2.8.3(DDEC IV) for ECM installation. Install the heat shield, cold plate, and ECM.
11. Adjust the SRS. Refer to section 2.15.3.1.

2.15 TIMING REFERENCE SENSOR
The Timing Reference Sensor (TRS) is an electronic component that sends a signal to the
Electronic Control Module (ECM) to indicate the firing position for each piston. See Figure
2-75 and see Figure 2-76.
1. Timing Reference Sensor 2. Synchronous Reference Sensor
Figure 2-75 SRS/TRS Reference Sensor (6V and 8V)

1. Left Bank Camshaft Gear 3. Pulse Wheel

2. Timing Reference Sensor
Figure 2-76 Timing Reference Sensor and Pulse Wheel Installed on Camshaft
Gear (12V and 16V)

The assembly is mounted through the engine front end plate at the top, left corner of the engine.
See Figure 2-77.
Figure 2-77 Location of SRS and TRS
2.15.1 Repair or Replacement of Timing Reference Sensor
The TRS is non-serviceable and must be replaced as a unit.
2.15.2 Removal of Timing Reference Sensor
Remove the TRS as follows:

2.8.2(DDEC IV) and remove the heat shield, cold plate, and ECM.
2. Loosen and remove the four bolts and washers retaining the ECM bracket to the engine.
3. Loosen and remove the two bolts and washers retaining the ECM bracket to the blower
end plate.
4. Remove the ECM bracket from the engine.
5. Remove any hoses or fuel lines necessary to gain access to the sensors.
6. Disengage the locking tang on the TRS connector.
7. Grasp the connector bodies, and gently pull them apart.
8. Remove the TRS retaining screw and clip.
9. Remove the sensor assembly.

10. If the pulse wheel or engine front end plate has been removed or replaced, loosen the
two sensor-retaining socket head screws.
2.15.2.1 Inspection of Timing Reference Sensor
Inspect the TRS as follows:

1. Inspect sensor contact for damage.
[a] If damage to the pulse wheel or pin at the harness connector is found, replace the
TRS sensor. Refer to section 2.14.4.
[b] If no sensor damage is found, refer to section 2.14.4.
2.15.3 Installation of Timing Reference Sensor
Install the TRS as follows:
NOTICE:
The TRS is an electronic component. Use care when installing,
to prevent damage
1. If the pulse wheel or engine front end plate has been removed or replaced, tighten the two
sensor-retaining socket head screws. Refer to section 2.15.3.1.
2. Install the sensor assembly.
3. Attach the TRS retaining screw and clip.
4. Press the connector bodies together.
5. Engage the locking tang on the TRS connector.
6. Replace any hoses or fuel lines previously removed.
7. Install the ECM bracket.
8. Install and tighten the two bolts and washers connecting the ECM bracket to the blower
end plate.
9. Install and tighten the four bolts and washers connecting the ECM bracket to the engine.
2.8.3(DDEC IV) for ECM installation. Install the heat shield, cold plate, and ECM.
11. Adjust the TRS. Refer to section 2.15.3.1.
2.15.3.1 Adjustment of Synchronous Reference Sensor and Timing

Reference Sensor
Whenever a sensor assembly is installed, align it in relationship to the teeth on the pulse wheel.
1. Refer to section 2.3.2(EUI Removal). See Figure 2-78.

□ For DDEC II remove the 1R for right-hand rotation engines. Remove 1L for left-hand
rotation engines.
□ For DDEC III and IV, remove the 1R injector. The 1R injector location is to be
used for all configurations.
1 Injector
Figure 2-78 EUI Injector Location
2. Position the piston for the cylinder at top-dead-center using crankshaft position timing
tool J 34930-A as follows:
NOTICE:
Failure to insert the spacer could result in damage to the dial
indicator if the piston is already at the top of travel when the tool
is installed.
[a] Install the slotted spacer on the chain between the dial indicator and the top of the
holder. Tighten the clamp screw.
[b] Insert dial indicator tool into the injector bore, install injector hold-down crab, and
tighten bolt.
[c] Turn the crankshaft slowly in the direction of rotation, and note indicator movement.
[d] Stop turning when the dial hand just stops.

[e] Turn the crankshaft slowly, opposite the direction of rotation, until the dial indicator
hand just starts to move. The piston is now at top-dead-center.
NOTE:
Before piston downward travel can be measured, the dial indicator must be "zeroed".
[f] Loosen the clamp screw, and remove the slotted spacer.
[g] Lower the dial indicator until the smaller indicator hands are at "0" and the larger
hand is near "0". See Figure 2-79.
Figure 2-79 Reading Dial Indicator
[h] Tighten the clamp screw, and turn the outer ring of the dial face to "0" the large hand.
[i] Tighten the bezel screw so the outer ring will not turn.
DDEC II – Turn the crankshaft slowly in the direction of rotation until the dial indicator pointer
reads exactly 30.8864 mm (1.216 in.) See Figure 2-80.

DDEC III – Turn the crankshaft slowly in the direction of rotation until the dial indicator pointer
reads exactly 41.5544 mm (1.636 in.) for RH 6V engines, 37.719 mm (1.485 in.) for LH 6V
engines, or 54.5084 mm (2.146 in.) for RH 8V engines. See Figure 2-80.
DDEC IV – Turn the crankshaft slowly in the direction of rotation until the dial indicator pointer
reads exactly 46.685 mm (1.838 in.) for RH 6V engines or 42.774 mm (1.684 in.) for LH 6V
engines. See Figure 2-80.
1. DDEC II 3. DDEC IV
2. DDEC III
Figure 2-80 Measuring Piston Travel on Dial Indicator
3. Check the torque of the SRS/TRS upon completion of the positioning procedure.
Refer to section 2.15.3.1 for torque procedures.

NOTICE:
If the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt has loosened during
the timing procedure, tighten it to the specified torque upon
completion of the SRS/TRS positioning procedure. Failure to
maintain required bolt torque may lead to crankshaft pulley
loosening, resulting in severe engine damage.
NOTE:
At this point the teeth on the rear of the pulse wheel, located on the rear cam pulley, are
in the proper location for positioning the sensors. The sensor bracket must be positioned
correctly in relation to the engine front end plate. Use SRS/TRS timing tool J 39815
to accomplish this task.
4. Tap the end of the camshaft pulley with a fiber mallet or rubber hammer to take up the
camshaft end play.
Perform the following steps for DDEC II (for DDEC III and IV proceed to step 15.)
5. Insert the SRS/TRS timing tool between the double teeth on the pulse wheel and the
TRS so that the groove at the rear of the tool slides over the teeth in the Pulse Wheel.
See Figure 2-81.
1. Timing Tool
Figure 2-81 SRS/TRS Timing Tool Insertion Point (DDEC II)
6. This operation is necessary if the sensor bracket has been loosened from its original
mounting position. If the sensor bracket has not been loosened, proceed to step 8. Position

the SRS/TRS bracket so that the round end of the TRS is located in the half moon portion
at the front of the timing tool. See Figure 2-82.
1. TRS 3. Timing Tool

2. SRS/TRS Bracket
Figure 2-82 SRS/TRS Bracket Position (DDEC II)
7. Tighten the two Allen bolts securing the SRS/TRS bracket to the engine front end plate.

8. Push gently on the end of the TRS so that the timing tool is in direct contact with the TRS
and the raised metal teeth of the Pulse wheel. See Figure 2-83.
1. Timing Tool
Figure 2-83 Timing Tool Position (DDEC II)
9. Tighten the sensor retaining clip socket head screw. If this adjustment has been done
correctly, the resulting air gap between the pulse wheel teeth and the sensor will be
0.020 in. (± 0.002 in.)
10. Loosen and remove the injector crab hold-down bolt.
11. Remove the injector crab.
12. Remove the timing tool.
14. Install the EUI previously removed and the front cover and related parts. Refer to section
2.3.4.
Perform the following steps for DDEC III and IV
15. Insert the TRS timing tool J 39815 into the bracket where the TRS sensor was removed
from.

16. Slide the tool through the bracket and cover so the slot in the tool engages with the TRS
timing pin on the pulse wheel.
NOTE:
There are 36 TRS pins and 1 SRS pin. The TRS timing tool must be inserted over the
No. 1 TRS pin. Slide the tool through the bracket and cover so that the slot in the tool
engages with the TRS timing pin on the pulse wheel. The correct TRS pin corresponds
to the notch found on the outer edge of the pulse wheel. See Figure 2-84.
1. Allen Screw (Tapered Head) 5. Dowel Holes

2. Pulse Wheel 6. Camshaft Pulley
3. Timing Reference Sensor Signal Teeth (36) 7. Notch
4. Synchronous Reference Sensor Tooth (1)
Figure 2-84 DDEC III Pulse Wheel Installation

17. Adjust the bracket to provide the proper alignment. See Figure 2-85.
Figure 2-85 Use of TRS Timing Tool J 39815
18. Tighten the two Allen bolts to secure the SRS/TRS bracket to the front end plate with the
TRS timing tool located into the TRS pin on the pulse wheel.
19. Remove the timing tool.
20. Tap the end of the camshaft pulley with a fiber or rubber mallet to take up the camshaft
end play.
21. Gently slide the SRS/TRS assembly into the bracket.
22. Position a 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) feeler gage between the TRS sensor and the TRS pin
on the pulse wheel.
23. Tighten the sensor retaining clip socket head screw.
NOTE:
If the adjustment is correct, the air gap between the pulse wheel teeth and the end of
the sensor should be 0.457- 0.559 mm (0.018-0.022 in.).
24. Loosen and remove the injector crab hold-down bolt.

25. Remove the injector crab.
27. Install the EUI previously removed and the front cover and related parts. Refer to section
2.3.4.

2.16 COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR
The Coolant Level Sensor (CLS) is a two-piece sensor. See Figure 2-86. The sensor probe
(supplied by the vehicle manufacturer) is mounted in the radiator top tank or overfill tank. The
sensor module is attached to the engine sensor harness. The module sends an electrical signal
to the ECM to indicate coolant level. Low coolant will activate the stop engine function or
warning function. Both the CLS sensor probe and module are non-serviceable and should
be replaced as necessary.
Figure 2-86 Two-piece Coolant Level Sensor
NOTE:
The coolant level sensor should be checked every 2 years, refer to section 13.12.7 for
maintaining procedures.
The DDEC II and DDEC III coolant level sensors are different in the following ways:

NOTICE:
To avoid possible engine damage, do not use DDEC II coolant
level sensors on DDEC III applications. DDEC III sensors can
be used in DDEC II applications.
□ Externally, the sensors psychically look the same.

□ The sensor used for DDEC II has a black colored connector.
□ The sensor used for DDEC III has an off-white colored connector.
NOTE:
The DDEC III Coolant Level Sensor (CLS) has an internal resistor where the DDEC
II (CLS) does not. The DDEC III (CLS) can be used in place of the DDEC II (CLS).
However, the DDEC II (CLS) cannot be used in place of a DDEC III (CLS) on DDEC III
units. In addition, DDEC III (CLS) used in place of the DDEC II (CLS) still requires
module.

□ A coolant level module must be used with all DDEC II CLS applications. See Figure 2-87.
1. DDEC II ECM 2. Coolant Level Module
Figure 2-87 Connector Assembly (DDEC II)

□ All DDEC III applications, except Volvo®, do not require a coolant level module.
See Figure 2-88.
1. DDEC III ECM
Figure 2-88 Connector Assembly (DDEC III)
2.16.1 Repair or Replacement of Coolant Level Sensor
The CLS is non-serviceable and should be replaced as a unit. No adjustment is required.
2.16.2 Removal of Coolant Level Sensor Probe
Remove the CLS probe as follows:

1. Open the drain cock at the bottom of the radiator and drain the coolant into an appropriate
container. Remove only as much coolant as is necessary to clear the CLS probe.
2. Remove ground wire screw and ground wire from side of probe. Loosen and remove nut
from sensor lead of probe. Remove sensor lead.
3. Use the appropriate wrench on the hex portion of the sensor and unscrew it from the
radiator.
2.16.3 Removal of Coolant Level Sensor Module
Remove the CLS module as follows:

1. Disengage the locking tang on the CLS module connector. Grasp the connector bodies
and gently pull them apart.
2. Remove the CLS module from harness.
2.16.3.1 Inspection of Coolant Level Sensor Module
Inspect the CLS module as follows:
NOTICE:
Operating an engine with a coolant level probe connector that is
not correctly wired may prevent the sensor from detecting a low
coolant condition, eventually causing engine damage.
1. Inspect the wires on the metri-pak probe connector for incorrect wiring.
NOTE:
The yellow wire should be connected to the "A" terminal and the black wire should
be connected to the "B" terminal.
[a] If the wires are reversed, remove and reposition the wires in the connector or splice a
new connector to the harness
[b] If properly wired, use the connector.
2.16.4 Installation of Coolant Level Sensor Module
Install the CLS module as follows:

1. Position the CLS module on harness.
NOTICE:
Use care upon installation of the CLS module. It is an electronic
component and easily damaged.
2. Grasp the connector bodies and gently push them together. Engage the locking tang
on the CLS module connector.
2.16.5 Installation of Coolant Level Sensor Probe
Install the CLS probe as follows:

1. Position the CLS probe in the radiator. Use the appropriate wrench on the hex portion of
the sensor and screw it into the radiator.
2. Install the nut on the sensor lead of probe and tighten the nut. Install the sensor lead.
Install the ground wire and ground wire screw on the side of probe.
3. Ensure the drain cock at the bottom of the radiator is closed.


5. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position. Observe or read any diagnostic codes. If any code
other than 25 appears, refer to the DDEC II Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE489 or DDEC
III/IV Single ECM Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE497.
6. Start the engine and check for leaks.

2.17 COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
2.17 COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) sends an electrical signal to the ECM indicating the
engine coolant temperature. The CTS activates engine protection if coolant temperature exceeds
the specified limits. See Figure 2-89.
1. Coolant Temperature Sensor
Figure 2-89 Coolant Temperature Sensor (12V and 16V)
2.17.1 Repair or Replacement of Coolant Temperature Sensor
The CTS is non-serviceable, and is replaced as a unit. No adjustment is required.
2.17.2 Removal of Coolant Temperature Sensor
Remove the coolant temperature sensor as follows:

1. Disengage locking tang on two wire connector.
2. Grasp body of the connector and gently pull it from the socket.
3. Use the appropriate wrench on the hex portion of the sensor and unscrew it from the
cylinder head.
2.17.3 Installation of Coolant Temperature Sensor
Install the coolant temperature sensor as follows:

1. Apply Loctite 567 pipe sealant with Teflon or equivalent on all but first two threads.
2. Install CTS to the cylinder head.
3. Tighten to 102-127 N·m (75-94 lb·ft)
4. Carefully fasten two-wire connector onto sensor and engage locking tang.

2.18 COOLANT PRESSURE SENSOR (12V AND 16V)
2.18 COOLANT PRESSURE SENSOR (12V AND 16V)
On 12V and 16V cylinder engines a coolant pressure sensor (CPS) is mounted beneath the two oil
coolers. If coolant pressure gets too low, a signal is sent to the ECM to turn on the Check Engine
Light (CEL) and warn the operator. See Figure 2-90.
1. Coolant Pressure Sensor
Figure 2-90 Coolant Pressure Sensor (12V and 16V)
2.18.1 Repair or Replacement of Coolant Pressure Sensor
The CPS is non-serviceable, and is replaced as a unit. No adjustment is required.
2.18.2 Removal of Coolant Pressure Sensor
With the engine (ignition) off remove the coolant pressure sensor as follows:
1. Disconnect the engine harness and remove the connector.
NOTE:
Observe where each wire lead on the harness is connected.
2. Remove the old sensor.
2.18.3 Installation of Coolant Pressure Sensor
With the engine (ignition) off install the coolant pressure sensor as follows:

NOTICE:
The CPS is an electronic device. Use care when installing to
prevent damage.
1. Install the new sensor into the engine port.Listed in Table 2-6 are the coolant
pressure/intercooler coolant pressure sensor connections.
Sensor Pigtail Engine Harness Connector Cavity Wire Number Description

Black Black A 452 Ground
Green Dark Green B 976 Signal
Red Gray C 416 Supply
Table 2-6 Coolant Pressure/Intercooler Coolant Pressure Sensor Connections
2. Strip each wire from the harness and splice it to the appropriate wire on the sensor pigtail.
NOTE:
Solder splicing is preferred, but crimp splices are acceptable.
3. Cover each wire splice with heat shrink tubing, preferably the self-adhesive type, so that
no bare wire is exposed.
4. Cover all spliced wires with an overall heat shrink tube.
5. Reconnect the engine harness.
6. Start the engine and check for proper sensor operation.
25 is obtained, refer to the DDEC III/IV Single ECM Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE497.
8. Check for coolant leaks. Refer to section 13.12.

2.19 FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR
The fuel pressure sensor (FPS) is installed into the fuel block mounted at the rear of the engine.
See Figure 2-91 and see Figure 2-92.
1. Fuel Pressure Sensor 2. Fuel Cooler
Figure 2-91 Fuel Pressure Sensor (6V and 8V Marine)

1. Fuel Pressure Sensor
Figure 2-92 Fuel Pressure Sensor (12V and 16V)
The FPS sends an electrical signal to the ECM indicating engine fuel pressure at a given speed.
2.19.1 Repair or Replacement of Fuel Pressure Sensor
The FPS is non-serviceable and should be replaced as a unit. No adjustment is required.
2.19.2 Removal of Fuel Pressure Sensor
Remove the FPS as follows:

1. Disengage the locking tang on the three-wire connector. Grasp the body of the connector,
and gently pull it free of the FPS.
2. Use an appropriate wrench on the hex end of the FPS to unscrew it from the fuel block.

2.19.3 Installation of Fuel Pressure Sensor
Install the FPS as follows:
NOTICE:
The FPS is an electronic device. Use care while installing to
prevent damage.
1. Apply Loctite 567 pipe sealant with Teflon, (or equivalent) on all but the first two threads.
Use an appropriate wrench to screw the FPS into the fuel block.
2. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position. If any diagnostic code other than code 25 is
obtained, refer to the DDEC II Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE489.
3. Check for fuel leaks.

2.20 FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR
The fuel temperature sensor (FTS) mounts in the fuel block at the rear of the engine. See Figure
Figure 2-93 Fuel Temperature Sensor

2.20 FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR
1. Fuel Temperature Sensor
Figure 2-94 Fuel Temperature Sensor (12V and 16V)
The FTS signals the ECM indicating fuel inlet temperature. From this the ECM calculates fuel
consumption.
2.20.1 Repair or Replacement of Fuel Temperature Sensor
The FTS is non-serviceable and should be replaced as a unit. No adjustment is required.
2.20.2 Removal of Fuel Temperature Sensor
Remove the FTS as follows:

1. Disengage the locking tang on the two-wire connector.
2. Grasp the connector body, and gently pull it from the socket.
3. Unscrew the sensor from the fuel block with an appropriate hex wrench.
2.20.3 Installation of Fuel Temperature Sensor
Install the FPS as follows:

NOTICE:
The FTS is an electronic device. Use care while installing to
prevent damage.
1. Apply Loctite 567 pipe sealant with Teflon (or equivalent) on all but the first two threads.
2. Install the sensor to the fuel block with the appropriate wrench.
3. Press the connector body into the socket.
4. Engage the locking tang on the two-wire connector.
5. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position. If any diagnostic code other than code 25 is
obtained, refer to DDEC II Troubleshooting Guide, 6SE489.
6. Check for fuel leaks.

2.21 FUEL PUMP
2.21 FUEL PUMP
The positive displacement gear-type fuel pump transfers fuel from the supply tank to the fuel
injectors. See Figure 2-95. The fuel pump circulates the fuel supply to the injectors, purging the
air from the system and cooling the injectors. A fuel return manifold and fuel return line returns
the unused fuel to the fuel tank.
1. Fuel Pump Cover 8. Gasket

2. Drive Shaft 9. Spring
3. Steel Ball 10. Fuel Pump Body
4. Driven Shaft 11. Relief Valve
5. Driven Gear 12. Oil Seals
6. Bolt 13. Drive Gear
7. Plug 14. Alignment Dowel
Figure 2-95 Cutaway of Typical Fuel Pump Assembly

The fuel pump is attached to the housing with three nylon patch bolts that prevent the oil in the
housing from seeping out around the bolt threads. A drive coupling fork, attached to the end of
the pump drive shaft and mating with a drive disc attached to the blower rotor, drives the pump
from the end of the blower rotor. See Figure 2-96 and see Figure 2-97. Regardless of engine
rotation, the pump will always rotate to the left.
1. Inlet Fuel Line 6. Bolt and Lock Washer Assembly

2. Outlet Fuel Line 7. Outlet Fuel Fitting
3. Blower Drive Coupling 8. Inlet Fuel Fitting
4. Governor Housing 9. Fuel Pump Assembly
5. Gasket 10. Drive Fork
Figure 2-96 Fuel Pump Assembly (Typical Pump Installation 6V and 8V)

2.21 FUEL PUMP
Figure 2-97 Typical Fuel Pump (12V and 16V)
For all DDEC engine applications the fuel pump drive coupling fork has been improved. The
center section thickness of the fork has been increased by 3.33 mm (0.131 in.). See Figure 2-98.
1. Former 2. Current
Figure 2-98 Fuel Pump Drive Couplings (Former and Current)

This additional material keeps the coupling fork in constant contact with the blower drive shaft,
preventing the coupling from sliding back and disengaging from the blower drive shaft.
Certain engine applications use a high-capacity fuel pump with 3/8 in. wide gears to increase fuel
flow and reduce fuel spill temperature. The high-capacity fuel pump and the standard fuel pump,
with 1/4 in. wide gears, are not completely interchangeable. When replacing a standard pump
with a high-capacity pump, the appropriate fuel lines and connections must be used.
Two dowels position the fuel pump cover and body. The dowels aid in maintaining gear shaft
alignment. The mating surfaces of the pump body and cover are perfectly flat ground surfaces.
No gasket is used between the cover and body since the pump clearance is set up on the basis
of metal-to-metal contact. A very thin coat of sealant provides a seal against any minute
irregularities in the mating surfaces. Cavities in the pump cover accommodate the ends of the
drive and driven shafts.
The recessed fuel pump body provides running space for the pump gears. See Figure 2-99.
Recesses are also provided at the inlet and outlet positions of the gears. Hole "A" permits the
fuel oil in the inlet side of the pump to lubricate the relief valve at its outer end and to eliminate
the possibility of a hydrostatic lock, that would render the relief valve inoperative. Pressurized
fuel contacts the relief valve through hole "B" and relieves excess discharge pressure. When the
discharge pressure is great enough to move the relief valve back from its seat, fuel re-enters
the inlet side of the pump through hole "C". Cavity "D" provides escape for the fuel oil that is
squeezed out of the gear teeth as they mesh together on the discharge side of the pump. Fuel
trapped at the root of the teeth would tend to force the gears apart, resulting in undue wear on
the gears, shafts, body, and cover.

2.21 FUEL PUMP
1. Relief Valve 8. Dowel Pin

2. Spring 9. Cover
3. Pin 10. Steel Ball
4. Plug 11. Fuel Pump Body
5. Gasket 12. Driven Shaft
6. Drive Gear 13. Driven Gear
7. Drive Shaft
Figure 2-99 Fuel Pump Valve and Rotation
NOTE:
Since the standard and high capacity fuel pumps are used in other Detroit Diesel product
lines, three tapped holes are available for the purpose of preventing fuel oil from being
retained between the seals. The orientation of the fuel pump will determine which hole
should be used as a vent. The vent should be located on the bottom side of the pump.
The remaining holes need to be plugged to protect debris from falling into the bearing
area of the pump and causing damage to the bearing seals.

Two oil seals are pressed into the flanged side of the pump body bore to retain the fuel oil in the
pump and the lubricating oil in the governor housing.
A higher temperature material lip type seal is now being used in the fuel pumps. The current fuel
pump seal is made of a polyacrylate material. The former seal is made of nitrile. The current
fuel pump seals are installed with the seal lips facing opposite of each other. The former fuel
pumps have the nitrile seals installed with both seal lips facing the pump mounting flange. Both
the polyacrylate and nitrile seals are interchangeable. Only the polyacrylate seals and fuel pumps
with polyacrylate seals are serviced. See Figure 2-100.
1. Inner Seal 2. Outer Seal
Figure 2-100 Fuel Pump Oil Seal Arrangement Former and Current

2.21 FUEL PUMP
Hole "E" serves as a vent passageway in the body between the inner oil seal and the suction
side of the pump, preventing fuel oil pressure build up around the shaft ahead of the inner seal.
See Figure 2-101.
1. Relief Valve 8. Dowel Pin

2. Spring 9. Cover
3. Pin 10. Steel Ball
4. Plug 11. Fuel Pump Body
5. Gasket 12. Driven Shaft
6. Drive Gear 13. Driven Gear
7. Drive Shaft
Figure 2-101 Fuel Pump Valve and Rotation

Expect some fuel oil leakage around the fuel pump seals when the engine is running and
immediately after the engine has been shut down. This occurs with a new fuel pump and/or
new pump seals. The seals have not yet conformed to the pump drive shaft. Fuel pump seals
will always allow some leakage. Tapped holes in the pump body are provided to prevent fuel oil
from being retained between the seals. Excessive fuel retention between the seals could dilute
the engine oil with fuel. The drainage of the excess fuel is mandatory. If leakage exceeds one
drop per minute, replace the seals.
The drive and driven gears are a line-to-line to 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) press fit. The drive gear is
provided with a gear retaining ball to locate the gear on the shaft.
A spring-loaded relief valve incorporated in the pump body normally remains in the closed
position, operating only when pressure on the outlet side (to the fuel filter) reaches approximately
448 kPa (65 lb/in.2 ).
In operation, fuel enters the pump on the suction side and fills the space between the gear teeth that
are exposed at that instant. The gear teeth carry the fuel oil to the discharge side of the pump. As
the gear teeth mesh in the center of the pump, the fuel is forced out into the outlet cavity. The fuel
flows from the outlet cavity, into the fuel lines, and through the engine fuel system under pressure.
The pressure relief valve relieves the discharge pressure by bypassing the fuel from the outlet
side of the pump to the inlet side when the discharge pressure reaches approximately 448 to
517 kPa (65 to 75 lb/in.2 ).
The fuel pump should maintain the fuel pressure at the fuel inlet manifold. Refer to section 11.5.
NOTE:
Current standard fuel pumps (with 1/4 in. wide gears) incorporate a 1/8 in. shorter pump
body with three drain holes, a 1/8 in. shorter drive shaft, and a cover with a 3/8 in. inlet
opening. When replacing a former pump, a 3/8 in. x 1/4 in. reducing bushing is required
for the inlet opening. The upper unused drain holes must be plugged. The drain hole
must be left open to allow fuel to drain in the event if a seal failure
NOTE:
Certain engine applications use a high-capacity fuel pump with 3/8 in. wide gears to
increase fuel flow and reduce fuel spill temperature. The high-capacity fuel pump and
the standard fuel pump with 1/4 in. wide gears may not be completely interchangeable;
therefore, when a high-capacity pump is being used, the appropriate fuel lines and
connections must be utilized.

2.21 FUEL PUMP
2.21.1 Repair or Replacement of Fuel Pump

See Figure 2-102.
Figure 2-102 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Fuel Pump

2.21.2 Removal of Fuel Pump
Remove the fuel pump as follows:

1. Disconnect the fuel lines from the inlet and outlet openings of the fuel pump.
2. Disconnect the drain tube, if used, from the fuel pump.
3. Remove the three pump attaching bolts, and withdraw the pump from the housing.
2.21.3 Disassembly of Fuel Pump
Disassemble the fuel pump as follows:

1. Mount the fuel pump in holding fixture J 1508-10A (from set J 1508-E). See Figure 2-103.
1. Fuel Pump Assembly 3. Holding Fixture

2. Fuel Pump Cover
Figure 2-103 Removing Fuel Pump Cover
NOTICE:
Remove the cover with care to avoid damaging the finished faces
of the pump body and cover.
2. Remove the eight cover bolts, and withdraw the pump cover from the pump body.
3. Withdraw the drive shaft, drive gear, and gear retaining ball from the pump body as an
assembly.

2.21 FUEL PUMP
NOTICE:
Do not press the squared end of the shaft through the gear. Slight
score marks will damage the oil seal contact surface.
4. Press the drive shaft far enough to remove the steel locking ball. Invert the shaft and gear
assembly, and press the shaft from the gear.
5. Remove the driven shaft and gear from the pump body as an assembly.
NOTE:
Do not remove the gear from the shaft. The driven gear and shaft are serviced as an
assembly only.
6. Remove the relief valve plug and copper gasket.

7. Remove the valve spring, pin, and relief valve from the valve cavity in the pump body.
8. If the oil seals need to be replaced, remove them with oil seal remover J 1508-13 (from set
J 1508-E). See Figure 2-104. Clamp the pump body in a soft jaw bench vise, and tap the
end of the tool with a hammer to remove the outer and inner seals.
1. Fuel Pump Assembly
Figure 2-104 Removing Oil Seals using Tool J 1508-13 (from SetJ 1508-E)

9. When installing new seals ensure they are installed in the new position.
NOTE:
Once oil seals are removed from the pump body they must be discarded and replaced
with new seals.
NOTE:
When replacing the seals ensure new design seals are used and are installed in the
proper position See Figure 2-105.
1. Inner Seal (Nitrile) 3. Inner Seal (Polyacrylate)

2. Outer Seal (Nitrile) 4. Outer Seal (Polyacrylate)
2.21.3.1 Cleaning of Fuel Pump
Clean the fuel pump as follows:

2.21 FUEL PUMP
FIRE
vapors:
1. Clean all parts in clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
2.21.3.2 Inspection of Fuel Pump
Inspect the fuel pump as follows:

1. Visually inspect the pump gear teeth for scoring, chipping, or wear.
[a] If scored, chipped, or worn, replace the gear. Refer to section 2.21.4.
[b] If not scored, chipped, or worn, continue inspection.
2. Visually inspect the ball slot in the drive gear for wear.
[a] If excessively worn, replace the gear. Refer to section 2.21.4.
3. Visually inspect the drive coupling fork.
[a] If broken or excessively worn, replace it. Refer to section 2.21.4.
[b] If not broken or excessively worn, continue inspection.
4. Visually inspect the drive and driven shafts for scoring or wear.
[a] If scored or worn, replace the shafts. Refer to section 2.21.4.

[b] If not scored or worn, continue inspection.
NOTE:
The driven shaft is serviced as a gear and shaft assembly only.
5. Visually inspect the pump cover and body. The mating faces must be flat and smooth and
fit tightly together.
NOTICE:
The mating faces of the pump body and cover must be flat,
smooth and fit together. Any scratches or slight damage may
result in pressure leaks.
[a] If warped, scratched, or damaged, replace the pump cover or body. Refer to section
2.21.4.
[b] If not warped, scratched, or damaged, proceed with the inspection.
6. Visually inspect pump cover and body for wear at areas that come in contact with the
gears and shafts.
[a] If worn, replace the pump cover or body. Refer to section 2.21.4.
[b] If not worn, proceed with the inspection.
7. Visually inspect the relief valve for score marks, burrs, and fit in the pump body.
[a] If slightly scored or burred, clean with fine emery cloth or crocus cloth.
[b] If excessively scored and burred and does not fit in the pump body, replace the valve.
[c] If not scored and burred and fits properly in the pump body, reuse the relief valve.

2.21 FUEL PUMP
2.21.4 Assembly of Fuel Pump
See Figure 2-106. Assemble the fuel pump as follows:
1. Drive Coupling 10. Pump Cover

2. Oil Seals 11. Driven Gear and Shaft
3. Gasket 12. Steel Ball
4. Fuel Pump Body 13. Relief Valve
5. Pump Body Mounting Bolts (3) 14. Spring
6. Dowel Pins (2) 15. Gasket Seal
7. Drive Shaft 16. Plug
8. Drive Gear 17. Pin
9. Cover Bolts (8)
Figure 2-106 Typical Fuel Pump

1. Lubricate the lips of the oil seals with a light coat of vegetable shortening.
NOTICE:
The inboard seal facing "IN" requires greater care at assembly
or service to prevent seal lip damage.
2. Place the inner oil seal on the pilot of the installer handle J 1508-8 (from set J 1508-E) so
the seal lip faces toward the shoulder on the tool.
NOTE:
When replacing the former nitrile fuel pump seals with the current polyacrylate seals,
install them with the seal lips facing each other. See Figure 2-107.
1. Inner Seal (Nitrile) 3. Inner Seal (Polyacrylate)

2. Outer Seal (Nitrile) 4. Outer Seal (Polyacrylate)

2.21 FUEL PUMP
3. With the pump body supported on wood blocks, insert the pilot of the installer handle in
the pump body so the seal starts straight into the pump flange. Drive the seal in until it
bottoms. See Figure 2-108.
1. Fuel Pump Body
Figure 2-108 Installing Inner Oil Seal using Tool J 1508-8 (from Set J 1508-E)
4. Place the shorter end of the adaptor J 1508-9 (from Set J 1508-E) over the pilot and against
the shoulder of the installer handle.
5. Place the outer oil seal on the pilot of the installer handle with the lip of the seal facing
away from the adaptor.

6. Insert the pilot of the installer handle into the pump body, and drive the seal in until the
shoulder of the adaptor contacts the pump body. See Figure 2-109.
NOTE:
The oil seals will be positioned so the space between them will correspond with the drain
holes located in the bottom of the pump body.
1. Fuel Pump Body
Figure 2-109 Installing Outer Oil Seal using Tools J 1508-8 and J 1508–9 (from
Set J 1508-E)
7. Clamp the pump body in a soft jawed bench vise, with the valve cavity up.
8. Lubricate the outside diameter of the valve, and place it in the cavity with the hollow
end up.
9. Insert the spring inside of the valve, and the pin inside of the spring.

2.21 FUEL PUMP
10. With a new gasket in place next to the head of the valve plug, place the plug over the
spring. Thread it into the pump body.
11. Tighten the 1/2 in.-20 plug to 24-30 N·m (18-22 lb·ft) torque.
NOTICE:
Pressing the gear into position from the square end of the shaft
may cause rapid wear of the oil seals and fine score marks.
12. Install the fuel pump drive gear over the end of the drive shaft.
13. Press the gear beyond the gear retaining ball detent.
14. Place the ball in the detent, and press the gear back until the end of the slot contacts the ball.

15. Lubricate the pump shaft. Insert the square end of the shaft into the opening at the gear
side of the pump body and through the oil seals. See Figure 2-110.
1. Drive Coupling 10. Pump Cover

2. Oil Seals 11. Driven Gear and Shaft
3. Gaskets 12. Steel Ball
4. Fuel Pump Body 13. Relief Valve
5. Pump Body Mounting Bolts (3) 14. Spring
6. Dowel Pins (2) 15. Gasket Seal
7. Drive Shaft 16. Plug
8. Drive Gear 17. Pin
9. Cover Bolts
Figure 2-110 Typical Fuel Pump

2.21 FUEL PUMP
16. Place the driven shaft and gear assembly in the pump body.
NOTE:
The driven gear must be centered on the shaft to give proper end clearance. The
production gear's chamfered end must face the pump body. If a service replacement
gear with a slot is used, the slot must face toward the pump cover.
FIRE
vapors:
17. Lubricate the gears and shafts with clean engine oil.
NOTICE:
Use care that sealant is not squeezed into the gear compartment,
otherwise damage to the gears and shafts may result.
18. Apply a thin coat of quality sealant on the pump cover face.
NOTE:
The sealant coating must be extremely thin since the pump clearances have been set
up on a metal-to-metal contact basis. Too much sealant could increase the clearances
and affect pump efficiency.
19. Place the cover against the pump body, with the two cover dowel pins entering the pump
body holes.
NOTE:
The cover can be installed in only one position over the two shafts.
20. Secure the cover with eight bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts alternately and
evenly.
21. After assembly, hand rotate the pump shaft to ensure that the parts rotate freely. If the
shaft does not rotate freely, tap a corner to attempt to free it.

22. Install 1/8 in. pipe plugs in the upper unused drain holes.
23. If the pump will not be installed immediately, place plastic shipping plugs in the inlet and
outlet openings to prevent dirt or other foreign material from entering the pump.
2.21.5 Installation of Fuel Pump
Install the fuel pump as follows:
NOTE:
The pump must always be installed with the pump cover inlet opening (marked "L.H. IN")
next to the balance weight cover or blower housing on 6V and 8V engines. See Figure
2-111 and note that the fuel pump is bolted to the governor housing (on DDEC engines,
verify that the drive coupling is the latest design) and is driven by the drive coupling fork
and the drive disc which is attached to the blower rotor.

2.21 FUEL PUMP
1. Inlet Fuel Line 6. Bolt and Lock Washer Assembly

2. Outlet Fuel Line 7. Outlet Fuel Fitting
3. Blower Drive Coupling 8. Inlet Fuel Fitting
4. Governor Housing 9. Fuel Pump Assembly
5. Gasket 10. Drive Fork
Figure 2-111 Fuel Pump Assembly
NOTE:
See Figure 2-112 when installing the fuel pump on a 12V and 16V engine.

1. Fuel Pump
Figure 2-112 Installation of Fuel Pump (12V and 16V)
1. Affix a new gasket to the pump body mounting flange. Place the drive coupling fork on
the square end of the drive shaft.
2. Place the fuel pump against the housing, making certain that the drive coupling fork
registers with the drive disc slots.
3. Secure the pump to the housing with three nylon patch bolts.
NOTE:
To provide improved sealing against leakage, nylon patch bolts are used in place of the
former bolt and seal assemblies.
4. Install the inlet and outlet elbows in the pump cover.
NOTICE:
Do not use Teflon tape or paste on the fittings. This can cause the
fuel pump cover to crack before the required torque is reached.
5. Before installing, coat the inlet and outlet elbow threads lightly with Gasolia, Permatex 2,
or an equivalent non-hardening sealant.
NOTE:
To prevent sealant from entering the fuel system, do not apply it to the first two threads
of the fittings.

2.21 FUEL PUMP
6. Tighten fittings to the low end of the torque. If necessary, continue tightening until
alignment is achieved, but do not exceed maximum torque. Tighten 1/4 in. fittings to
19-22 N·m (14-16 lb·ft), 3/8 in. fittings to 24-30 N·m (18-22 lb·ft), and 1/2 in. fittings to
27-34 N·m (20-25 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
Tighten fittings on the fuel filter-to-cooler plate and cooler plate-to-fuel pump hoses
to 21.47-22.60 N·m (190-200 lb·in.) torque. Hold connector block securely with a
second wrench while tightening fittings.
7. Connect the inlet and outlet fuel lines to the fuel pump elbows.
8. Connect the fuel pump drain tube, if used, to the pump body.
9. If the fuel pump is replaced or rebuilt, prime the fuel system with tool J 5956 before
starting the engine. This will reduce the possibility of pump seizure when first starting.
10. Refer to section 2.21.5 for verification of proper fuel pump installation.

2.22 FUEL STRAINER AND FUEL FILTER
The fuel strainer (primary) and fuel filter (secondary) are used to remove impurities from the
fuel. The fuel strainer is located between the fuel tank and the fuel pump. The replaceable
density-type element is capable of filtering out moisture, sludge, and other coarse debris. The fuel
filter is installed between the fuel pump and the fuel inlet manifold. The replaceable cellulose
element can remove particles as small as 10 microns. Fiberglass elements can remove particles as
small as 5 microns.
A fuel/water separator must be located on the suction side of the fuel system (before the fuel
pump).
NOTE:
Detroit Diesel does not approve the installation of a combination water separator, primary
filter, and a standard primary filter on the same engine.

The installation can be a separate fuel/water separator plumbed in series with the normal DDC
primary fuel filter or a combination water separator/primary fuel filter. See Figure 2-113.
See Figure 2-114. If the latter is used, the original primary filter must be removed.
1. Fuel Tank 5. Fuel/Water Separator

2. Secondary Fuel Filter 6. Fuel Filter (Strainer)
3. Fuel Pipes 7. Fuel Pump
4. Injectors
Figure 2-113 Fuel/Water Separator Installed

1. Fuel Tank 4. Injector

2. Secondary Fuel Filter 5. Combination Fuel/Water Separator Primary Filter
3. Fuel Pipes 6. Fuel Pump
Figure 2-114 Combination Fuel/Water Separator - Primary Filter Installed
A typical fuel/water separator has a drain for collected water removal. The fuel pump inlet
restriction, must not raise above 6 in. Hg, for a clean strainer and 12 Hg for a dirty strainer,
the same as any other primary filter.

A spin-on type fuel strainer and fuel filter are used on certain engines. See Figure 2-115.
The spin-on-filter cartridge consists of a canister, element, and gasket combined in a unitized
replacement assembly. No separate springs or seats are required to support the filters. Detroit
Diesel recommends replacing canister type fuel filter assemblies with the spin-on element
assemblies where convenient.
1. Fuel Strainer 2. Fuel Filter
Figure 2-115 Fuel Strainer and Fuel Filter Elements
The filter covers incorporate a threaded stud to accept the spin-on-filter cartridges. The word
"Primary" or "P" is cast on the fuel strainer cover, and the word "Secondary" or "S" is cast on the
fuel filter cover for identification.

No drain cocks are provided with spin-on-filters. In applications where water in the fuel is likely,
DDC recommends a water separator or a combination fuel/water separator primary filter be
installed.
NOTE:
Detroit Diesel does not approve the installation of a combination water separator, primary
filter, and a standard primary filter on the same engine.
NOTE:
Removing and inverting the filter may drain the residue. Refill the filter with clean fuel
oil before installing.
NOTICE:
A galvanized steel fuel tank should never be used for fuel
storage. The fuel oil reacts chemically with the zinc coating to
form powdery flakes that quickly clog the fuel filter and damage
the fuel pump and fuel injectors, eventually damaging the
engine.
Since the fuel strainer is between the fuel supply tank and the fuel pump, it functions under
suction. The fuel filter, placed between the fuel pump and the fuel inlet manifold in the cylinder
head, operates under pressure. Fuel enters through the filter base inlet passage and into the
canister surrounding the filter element. Pump created, pressure or suction causes the fuel to flow
through the filter element, where dirt particles are removed. Clean fuel flows to the interior of the
filter element, up through the filter base central passage, and into the outlet passage. The fuel
enters the fuel inlet manifold in the cylinder head.
NOTICE:
DDC has determined engines used in certain mining applications
may experience high rates of fuel injector seizure and/or plunger
and bushing scoring. To eliminate or greatly reduce the injector
damage, DDC recommends installing a severe-duty secondary
fuel filter assembly.
2.22.1 Repair or Replacement of Fuel Strainer or Fuel Filter
The fuel strainer or fuel filter is not a serviceable item. Refer to OEM guidelines or an authorized
Detroit Diesel distributor for service recommendations.
2.22.2 Removal of Spin-On Type Fuel Strainer or Fuel Filter
Remove the spin-on type fuel strainer or fuel filter as follows:
NOTE:
The procedure for removing an element is identical for both the fuel strainer and fuel
filter. See Figure 2-116 and see Figure 2-117 for illustration.

1. Draincock 8. Fuel Strainer Cover

2. Fuel Strainer Shell 9. Washer
3. Spring 10. Screw
4. Sprint Seat 11. Gasket
5. Retainer 12. Plug
6. Fuel Strainer Element 13. Washer
7. Gasket 14. Washer
Figure 2-116 Fuel Strainer Assembly

1. Fuel Strainer Cover 2. Fuel Filter
Figure 2-117 Fuel Filter
NOTE:
Only filter elements designed for fuel oil filtration should be used to filter the fuel.
NOTICE:
The wiring harness, starting motor, or other electrical equipment
must be shielded during the filter change. Fuel oil can
permanently damage the electrical insulation.
1. With the engine stopped, place a container under the strainer or filter.
2. Unscrew the filter or strainer, and discard it.
2.22.3 Installation of Spin-On Type Fuel Strainer or Fuel Filter
Install the spin-on type fuel strainer or fuel filter as follows:
NOTICE:
The wiring harness, starting motor, or other electrical equipment
must be shielded during the filter change. Fuel oil can
permanently damage the electrical insulation.
1. Fill the new filter replacement cartridge about two-thirds full with clean fuel oil.

FIRE
vapors:
2. Coat the seal gasket lightly with clean fuel oil.

3. Install the new filter assembly.
4. Tighten it to one-half turn beyond the gasket contact.
5. Start the engine, and check the fuel system for leaks.

2.23 FUEL COOLER
A fuel cooler may be mounted in the raw water system between the heat exchanger and the
raw water pump, so that the fuel leaving the engine is cooled before it returns to the fuel tank.
See Figure 2-118.
Fuel cycling through an engine causes the fuel in the tank to become heated after extended
operation. Excessive fuel temperatures can affect engine operation. An increase in the fuel
inlet temperature above 32.2°C (90°F) will result in a brake horsepower loss of approximately
2% per 11°C (20°F).
1. Flexible Hose and Clamp Assemblies 5. Outlet Fitting

2. Raw Water Pump Tubes 6. Fuel Cooler
3. Fuel Inlet Line 7. Inlet Fitting
4. Fuel Outlet Line
Figure 2-118 Location of Fuel Cooler Parts

2.23 FUEL COOLER
2.23.1 Repair or Replacement of Fuel Cooler

See Figure 2-119.
Figure 2-119 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Fuel Cooler
2.23.2 Removal of Fuel Cooler
Remove the fuel cooler as follows:

1. Disconnect the flexible hoses at the fuel cooler.
2. Loosen the hose clamps, and slide the hoses back on the raw water pump tubes.
2.23.2.1 Cleaning of Fuel Cooler
Follow OEM procedures for cleaning instructions.

2.23.2.2 Inspection of Fuel Cooler
Inspect the fuel cooler as follows:
PRESSURIZED AIR AND FLYING PARTICLES

To avoid injury to eye or face, wear a face shield or goggles
when conducting a pressure test.
1. Plug one of the fuel openings with a 1/4 in. pipe plug, and attach an air hose to the other
opening to check for leaks.
2. Apply approximately 256 kPa (40 lb/in.2) air pressure, and submerge the cooler in a
container of heated water (82°C or 180°F).
NOTE:
Air bubbles in the water indicate a leak.
[a] If leaks are indicated, replace the cooler. Refer to section 2.23.3.
[b] If not leaks are detected, reuse the fuel cooler.
2.23.3 Installation of Fuel Cooler
Install the fuel cooler as follows:

1. Slide the hoses onto the fuel cooler tubes.
2. Tighten the hose clamps.
3. Connect the flexible hoses at the fuel cooler.

2.24 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR
Fluctuating loads vary horsepower requirements. The governor is introduced in the linkage
between the throttle control and the fuel injectors and is mounted to the front end of the blower. It
controls the fuel amount required to hold the engine speed constant during load fluctuations.
Engines requiring a minimum and maximum speed control, together with manually controlled
intermediate speeds, are equipped with a limiting speed mechanical governor.
The limiting speed mechanical governors used on the V-92 engines perform the following two
functions:
□ Control the engine idling speed
□ Limit the maximum operating engine speed
The double-weight limiting speed governor is used to improve the performance of some engines.
See Figure 2-120. The double-weight limiting speed governor includes the lighter weight fuel
squeezer engine weight system. When encountering performance problems, replace the former
single weight governor with the current double-weight governor. See Figure 2-121.

1. Carrier and Weight Assembly (Turbocharged Engines) 14. Lock Washer

2. Weight Shaft 15. Fork
3. Carrier and Weight Assembly (Non-Turbocharged 16. Riser Thrust Bearing
Engines)
4. Differential Lever 17. Riser
5. Plain Washer 18. Operating Shaft Lever
6. Spring Retainer 19. Flat Washer
7. Speed Control Lever 20. Needle Bearings
8. Stop Lever 21. Control Link Operating Shaft
9. Flat Washer 22. Housing Plug
10. Operating Lever Connecting Link 23. Bearing Retaining Bolt
11. Connecting Pin 24. Gasket
12. Control Link Operating Lever Assembly 25. Weight Shaft Bearing
13. Governor Housing 26. Operating Shaft
Figure 2-120 Cross Section of Double-Weight Limiting Speed Mechanical

Governor

1. Low-Speed Spring 10. Piston

2. Low-Speed Spring Seat 11. Seal Ring
3. High-Speed Spring Seat 12. Sleeve
4. High-Speed Spring Retainer 13. High-Speed Spring
5. Idle-Speed Adjustment Screw 14. High-Speed Spring Plunger
6. Spring Housing 15. Low-Speed Spring Cap
7. Shims 16. Gap Adjusting Screw
8. Low Maximum Speed Adjusting Screw 18. Yield Link Assembly
9. Cover
Figure 2-121 Cross Section of Dual-Range Governor Spring Assembly
A tamper-resistant double weight limiting speed governor is provided for highway vehicle
engines. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

The single weight limiting speed governor is used on 6V and 8V engine applications, except fuel
squeezer and coach engines that require low idle speed control (below 500 RPM). See Figure
2-122.

1. Balance Weight Shaft 11. Gap Adjusting Screw

2. Balance Weight Assembly 12. Upper Bearing
3. Spacer 13. Operating Shaft
4. Differential Lever 14. Weight Shaft Bearing
5. Washer 15. Bearing Retaining Bolt
6. Spring Retainer 16. Housing Plug
7. Return Spring 17. Fork
8. Speed Control Lever 18. Riser Thrust Bearing
9. Stop Lever 19. Riser
10. Operating Shaft Lever
Figure 2-122 Cross Section of Single Weight Limiting Speed Mechanical

Governor
Each governor has an identification plate located on the governor housing. It contains the
governor assembly number, type, idle range speed and manufacturing date.

On 6V and 8V engines, the governor is mounted on the front end of the blower. On 12V and 16V
engines, the governor is mounted on the front end of the rear blower. The governor auxiliary drive
housing is mounted on the rear end of the front blower. A blower rotor drives the governors.
The governor consists of the following two subassemblies:
□ Control housing cover
□ Control and weight housing
A die cast governor cover with serrated shafts and three bosses is used to provide additional
design features. See Figure 2-123. Two bosses are drilled for the limiting speed governors, one
for the throttle shaft, and one for the shutdown shaft.
1. Speed Control Lever Shaft 4. Spring Clamp

2. Return Spring 5. Stop Lever Shaft
3. Yieldable Speed Control Lever
Figure 2-123 Die Cast Governor Covers
NOTE:
If a customer furnished mounting bracket is attached to the new cover, rework the old
bracket to clear the unused cast bosses (one for limiting speed governors).
The die cast governor cover assemblies include a 3/8 in. diameter serrated shutdown shaft for
limiting speed governors. This assures positive clamping between the serrated levers and the
shafts and prevents slippage. Four serrations are eliminated on the shutdown shafts to permit
some customers to design a mating lever with missing serrations. This provides a fixed position
for their particular requirements. DDC levers are not provided with missing serrations.

To reduce governor speed control lever shaft assembly stop pin wear and prolong bushing and
O-ring seal life, a yieldable speed control lever is available. This yieldable speed control lever
cannot be used with the former stamped cover assemblies. However, a service yieldable speed
control lever is available for use with the stamped cover.
A standard double-weight governor operates as follows:
The governor holds the injector racks in the advanced fuel position for starting when the speed
control lever is in the idle position. Immediately after starting, the governor moves the injector
racks to the idling position.
To limit fuel input during engine start-up when the speed control lever is in its idle position,
turbocharged engines use a starting aid screw. The starting aid screw is externally mounted in the
front of the governor housing, that has a domed end, and cannot be removed from the outside of
the housing. When the screw is not required, back it out as far as possible to make it ineffective.
When the centrifugal force of the revolving governor weights balances out the tension on the high
or low-speed spring (depending on the speed range), the governor stabilizes the engine speed for a
given speed control lever setting.
In the low-speed range, the centrifugal force of the low and high-speed weights operate against
the low-speed spring. As the engine speed increases, the centrifugal force of the low and
high-speed weights compress the low-speed spring until the low-speed weights are against their
stops, limiting their travel. The low-speed spring will be fully compressed and the low-speed
spring cap is within 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) of the high-speed spring plunger.
Throughout the intermediate speed range, the operator has complete engine control because
both the low-speed spring and the low-speed weights are against their stops, and the high-speed
weights are not exerting enough force to overcome the high-speed spring.
As the speed increases, the centrifugal force of the high-speed weights increases until this
force can overcome the high-speed spring. The governor takes control of the engine, limiting
the maximum engine speed.
Fuel rods are connected to the differential lever and injector control tube levers through the
control link operating lever and connecting link. This arrangement allows the governor to change
the injector control rack fuel settings.
The governors' low-speed spring force determines the engine idle speed. When the governor
speed control lever is placed in the idle position, the engine will operate at the speed where the
force of the governor low-speed weights will equal the force of the governor low-speed spring.
Adjusting the idle adjusting screw changes the engine idle speed by changing the force on
the low-speed spring. Refer to section 12.4.9 for 6V and 8V engine idle speed adjustment.
Refer to section 12.5.5 for 12V and 16V engines idle speed adjustment.
The high-speed spring force determines the engine maximum no-load speed. When the governor
speed control lever is placed in the maximum speed position, the engine will operate at a speed
where the force of the governor high-speed weights equals the force of the governor high-speed
spring.
Adjusting the high-speed spring retainer will increase or decrease the high-speed spring
tension. Refer to section 12.4.16 for 6V and 8V engines maximum no-load speed adjustments.
Refer to section 12.5.6 for 12V and 16V engines maximum no-load speed adjustments.

The double-weight dual high-speed range governor operates as follows:

The mechanical double-weight limiting speed dual-range governor has been designed for use
in applications that require a high maximum speed occasionally and a low maximum speed
the rest of the time.
In vehicle operation, this governor permits a high engine speed in the lower gear ratios for
maximum vehicle acceleration, while providing a conservative vehicle speed in the higher gears.
The valve for controlling the governor's high and low-speed ranges is usually connected to the
transmission. The transmission shift from low gear to high gear will automatically shift the
governor from its high maximum speed range to the low maximum speed range.
Air or oil pressure used behind a piston to increase the tension on the governor high-speed spring
activates the two speed operation.
NOTE:
On current engines, the spring assembly has been revised to include a shorter sleeve
and a longer idle speed adjustment set screw. The new sleeve (1.64 in.) and the new set
screw (5/16 in.-24 x 2 in.) must be used together in the spring assembly. Do not mix with
the former sleeve (1.84 in.) and set screw (5/16 in.-24 x 1 1/2 in.).
Removing air pressure from behind the piston permits the governor high-speed spring to force the
piston against the low maximum speed adjusting screw, retaining enough tension in the governor
high-speed spring to operate the engine at the desired lower speed.
A seal ring prevents air pressure from leaking past the piston assembly. The cylinder is lubricated
at the time the piston assembly is installed.
The single-weight governor operates as follows:
When the centrifugal force of the revolving governor weights balances the tension on the high or
low-speed spring (depending on the speed range), the governor stabilizes the engine speed for a
given governor control lever setting.
In the low-speed range, the centrifugal force operates against the low-speed spring. As the engine
speed increases, the centrifugal force compresses the low-speed spring until the spring cap is
against the high-speed plunger. This removes the low-speed spring from operation. The governor
is then in the intermediate speed range. In this range, the centrifugal force is operating against the
high-speed spring. The engine speed is manually controlled.
As the engine speed increases to a point where the centrifugal force overcomes the high-speed
spring preload, the governor moves the injector racks out to the required maximum no-load
position.
A fuel rod, connected to the differential lever and the injector control tube lever, assists the
governor in changing the injector control racks fuel settings.
The centrifugal force required to balance tension on the low-speed spring determines the engine
idle speed.
Using the idle adjustment screw to change the low-speed spring tension adjusts the engine idle
speed. Refer to section 12.4.18 for the idle speed adjustment.

The centrifugal force required to balance the tension on the high-speed spring determines the
maximum no-load speed.
The high-speed spring retainer adjusts the maximum no-load speed. The high-speed spring
retainer nut movement will increase or decrease the tension on the high-speed spring.
Refer to section 12.4.16 for the maximum no-load speed adjustment.
All governors are lubricated as described here:
A spray of lubricating oil from the blower end plate lubricates the governor. The governor
weights distribute this oil to all governor assembly parts requiring lubrication. Oil returning
from the governor is directed through passages in the blower end plate and cylinder block to the
engine oil pan.
2.24.1 Repair or Replacement of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor

See Figure 2-124.

Figure 2-124 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Limiting Speed

Mechanical Governor
2.24.2 Removal of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (6V and 8V

Engines)
Remove the limiting speed mechanical governor on 6V and 8V engines as follows:

1. Open the drain cocks, and drain the engine cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.3.
2. Remove any accessories attached to the cylinder head, governor, or engine front end that
interfere with the governor assembly removal. On "TA" engines Refer to section 6.5.2 to
remove the blower.
3. Disconnect the control linkage from the speed control and stop levers. See Figure 2-125.
1. Fuel Pump 4. Speed Control Lever

2. Governor Assembly 5. Blower Assembly
3. Stop Lever 6. Fuel Rod Cover
Figure 2-125 Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor Mounting (6V and 8V

Engines)
4. Remove the eight screws and lock washers securing the governor cover to the housing.
Lift the cover and gasket from the housing.
5. Remove the valve rocker covers from the cylinder heads. Discard the gaskets.

6. Remove the screw type pin in the control link operating lever and the clevis pin in the
control tube lever. Withdraw the right-bank fuel rod from the governor.
7. Remove the clevis pin in the control tube lever, and lift the connecting pin out of the
control link operating lever approximately three-quarters of an inch. Withdraw the fuel
rod from the governor.
8. Loosen the hose clamps at each end of the water bypass tube. Slide the hoses and clamps
onto the bypass tube, and remove the tube from the engine.
9. Disconnect and remove the fuel oil lines attached to the fuel pump and the crossover
fuel oil line attached to each cylinder head.
10. Loosen the hose clamps on the fuel rod cover tube hoses next to each cylinder head. Slide
each hose and clamp up on the tube in the governor housing.
NOTE:
Observe the location of the two copper lock washers and eight plain lock washers on the
governor-to-blower bolts before removing them.
11. Remove the ten bolts and washers securing the governor and fuel pump assembly to
the blower (two inside and eight outside).
12. Tap the sides of the governor housing lightly with a plastic hammer to loosen the governor
from the blower.
13. Pull the governor and fuel pump assembly out from the dowels in the blower end plate.
14. Remove the governor-to-blower gasket.
15. Remove the drive coupling fork.
NOTE:
The fuel pump drive coupling fork may be on either the fuel pump or the blower rotor
shaft.
16. Remove the three bolt and seal assemblies securing the fuel pump assembly to the
governor housing.
17. Remove the fuel pump and gasket from the governor housing.
2.24.3 Removal of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (12V and 16V

Engines)
Remove the limiting speed mechanical governor on 12V and 16V engines as follows:
1. Remove the blower assembly. Refer to section 1.30.4.

2. Disconnect the linkage attached to the governor speed control and stop levers. See Figure
2-126.
1. Governor Assembly 5. Auxiliary Control Link Housing

2. Air Shutdown Housing Assembly 6. Air Shutdown Housing Adaptor
3. Speed Control Lever 7. Fuel Rod Cover
4. Stop Lever 8. Fuel Pump Assembly
Figure 2-126 Limiting Speed Governor Mounting (12V and 16V Engines)
3. On non-turbocharged engines, disconnect the air inlet tube attached to the air shutdown
housing on each blower.
4. Disconnect the tube from the turbocharger and the air shutdown housing on the rear blower.
5. On marine engines, remove the air silencers from both air shutdown housings.
6. On non-turbocharged engines, remove the air shutdown housings and the air shutdown
adaptor from the rear blower.

7. On marine engines, remove the air shutdown housings from the blowers. Remove the two
air shutdown housings, with attaching rod, as a unit.
8. On turbocharged engines, disconnect the shutdown rod from the lever on the rear air
shutdown housing. Remove the air shutdown housing and the air shutdown adaptor from
the blower as an assembly.
9. Cover the top of the blower with masking tape to prevent the entry of foreign material.
10. Remove the rear cylinder head rocker covers. Discard the gaskets.
11. Remove the governor housing cover screws and lock washers. Remove the cover and
gasket from the housing.
12. Remove the governor auxiliary control link housing cover screws and lock washers.
Remove the cover and gasket from the housing.
13. Remove the screw type pin in the control link operating lever and the pin in the control
tube lever to remove the right-bank fuel rod. Withdraw the fuel rod through the top of the
governor housing.
14. Remove the connecting pin from the control link operating lever and the pin in the control
tube lever to remove the left-bank fuel rod. Withdraw the fuel rod through the top of the
governor housing.
15. Lift or pry each end of the connecting link from the ball joint studs. Remove the
connecting link from the governor housing.
16. Loosen the fuel rod cover hose clamp at each side of the governor housing. Slide each
hose against the governor housing. Tighten each clamp to retain it on the hose.
17. Loosen the hose clamp between the governor housing and the auxiliary control link
housing. Slide the hose forward against the auxiliary control link housing. Tighten the
clamp.
18. Disconnect the fuel pump inlet and outlet tubes or hoses from the fuel pump. If necessary,
remove the fuel pump from the governor housing.
19. Disconnect the blower drive support oil tube from the blower drive support fitting.
20. Loosen the two bolts securing the oil tube seal ring retaining plate to the blower end
plate. Push the oil tube into the end plate.
21. Remove the six bolts and lock washers securing the flywheel housing hole cover at the
blower drive support. Remove the cover and gasket.
22. Remove the clevis pin and cotter pin from the fuel rod opposite injector control tube
lever. Remove the fuel rod.
23. Remove the screw pin from the end of the fuel rod between the two bosses on the lever.
Remove the fuel rod.
24. Install the short screw pin in the control link operating lever.
25. Remove the lower end of the right-bank fuel rod from the top of the governor housing.
26. Remove the clevis pin and cotter pin, and remove the fuel rod from the injector control
tube lever.

27. Remove the connecting pin from the fuel rod and lower boss, and remove the fuel rod
from the two bosses on the lever.
28. Lower the connecting pin in the control link operating lever.
29. Remove the lower end of the left-bank fuel rod from the top of the governor housing.
30. If the engine is equipped with a rear mounted battery-charging alternator, refer to section
2.24.4.
31. If the engine is equipped with a hydraulic oil pump, refer to section 2.24.5.
32. Remove the blower drive shaft retaining snap ring from the blower drive flexible coupling.
33. Remove the blower drive shaft from the blower drive hub and the blower drive coupling.
34. Loosen the blower drive support-to-blower hose (seal) clamps. Push the hose (seal) back
on the blower drive support.
35. Remove the bolt and washer securing the blower to the cylinder block from the top of
each blower end plate.
36. Remove the bolts and retaining washers on each side of the blower that secure it to the
cylinder block.
FALLING COMPONENT
lifting device is used.
NOTICE:
Ensure blower is securely attached to the lifting sling before
removing from engine. Blower damage may result if the blower
falls from the lifting device.
37. Thread eyebolts in diagonally opposite tapped holes in the top of the blower housing.
Attach a rope sling and chain hoist to the eyebolts.
38. Lift the blower assembly slightly, and move it forward to detach the blower from the
hose (seal).
39. Lift the blower away from the engine and place it on a bench.
40. Remove the blower-to-cylinder block gasket.
41. With the blower and governor assembly removed from the engine, remove the ten bolts,
lock washers, plain washer, and copper washers securing the governor assembly to the
blower end plate.
42. Slide the governor assembly forward off of the dowel pins in the end plate. Remove
the governor to blower end plate gasket.

2.24.4 Removal of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (Engine

Equipped with a Rear Mounted Battery-Charging Alternator)
On an engine equipped with a rear mounted battery-charging alternator, proceed as follows:

1. Loosen and remove the alternator drive belt.
2. Remove the alternator drive pulley nut and pulley from the alternator drive shaft.
3. Remove the bolts and lock washers securing the alternator drive assembly to the flywheel
housing.
4. Remove the drive assembly, gasket, and drive coupling from the flywheel housing.
5. Refer to section 2.24.3, step 32 to continue removal.
2.24.5 Removal of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (Engine

Equipped with a Hydraulic Oil Pump)
On an engine equipped with a hydraulic oil pump, proceed as follows:

1. Remove the six bolts and lock washers securing the oil pump to the flywheel housing
and adaptor.
2. Remove the oil pump, adaptor, and gaskets from the flywheel housing.
3. Remove the drive coupling and the drive coupling hub from the blower drive shaft.
4. Refer to section 2.24.3, step 32 to continue removal.
2.24.5.1 Cleaning of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor
Clean the limiting speed mechanical governor as follows:
FIRE
vapors:
1. Thoroughly wash the cover assembly in clean fuel oil.

2. Thoroughly wash the control link operating lever containing the bearings in clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
3. Dry components with compressed air.

4. Inspect for worn or damaged parts that may be repaired or replaced without complete
disassembly.
2.24.6 Disassembly of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor
See Figure 2-127 and see Figure 2-128. Disassemble the limiting speed mechanical governor
or the fuel squeezer engine cover as follows:
1. Return Spring 6. Spacer

2. Seal Ring 7. Speed Control Shaft
3. Retaining Washers 8. Bearings
4. Stop Lever Shaft 9. Cover and Pin Assembly
5. Snap Ring 10. Fulcrum Pin
Figure 2-127 Cross Section of Former Governor Cover

1. Stop Pins 7. Snap Ring

2. Bushing 8. Spacer
3. Return Spring 9. Speed Control Shaft
4. Seal Ring 10. Cover and Pin Assembly
5. Retaining Washers 11. Fulcrum Pin
6. Stop Lever Shaft 12. Hub
Figure 2-128 Cross Section of Current Governor Cover
NOTE:
All fuel squeezer engines have a governor cover with an extended hub and a longer
speed control shaft (3.30 in. long). The cover also incorporates two hardened steel
roll pins in the speed control shaft hub.
1. Remove the lubrication fitting from the speed control shaft.

2. Loosen the speed control lever retaining bolt, and lift the control lever from the speed
control shaft.
3. Remove the spacer (if used), snap ring and two seal ring retaining washers, and seal
ring from the speed control shaft.
4. Withdraw the shaft from the cover.
5. Loosen the bolt securing the stop lever to the stop lever shaft, and remove the stop lever.
6. Remove the snap ring, two seal ring retaining washers, and seal ring from the stop lever
shaft. Withdraw the lever shaft and the lever shaft return spring from the cover.
7. If needle bearing removal is necessary, place the inner face of the cover over the opening
on the arbor press bed.
8. Place remover J 21967-01 on the top of the bearing and under the press ram. Press both
bearings out of the cover. See Figure 2-129.
1. Governor Cover
Figure 2-129 Removing Speed Control Shaft Bearing from Governor Cover
using Tool J 21967-01

9. Remove the bushing or bearings from the stop lever shaft opening using remover J 8985.
See Figure 2-130.
1. Governor Cover
Figure 2-130 Removing Stop Lever Shaft Bushings from Governor Cover
using Tool J 8985
10. Disassemble the high and low-speed spring plunger, and adjusting screw (except on
dual-range governor). Refer to section 2.24.7.
11. Disassemble the high and low-speed spring plunger, and adjusting screw (dual-range
governor). Refer to section 2.24.8.
12. Disassemble the governor weights and shaft assembly (double and single-weight
governor). Refer to section 2.24.9.
13. On non-turbocharged engines, remove the retaining rings from the weight pins. Tap the
grooved end of the pins to drive them out of the carrier and the weights.
14. On turbocharged engines, refer to section 2.24.10 to disassemble governor weights and
shaft assembly.
15. Remove the governor weights.
16. Remove the governor linkage. Refer to section 2.24.11.

2.24.7 Disassemble the High and Low-Speed Springs, Plunger, and

Adjusting Screw (Except On Dual-Range Governors)
Disassemble the high and low-speed springs, plunger, and adjusting screw (except on dual-range
governors) as follows:
1. Clamp the governor housing flange in a soft jawed vise.
2. Remove the two bolts and copper washers securing the high-speed spring retainer housing
to the governor housing. Withdraw the retainer housing and gasket.
3. Loosen the high-speed spring retainer locknut with spanner wrench J 5345-12.
4. Remove the high-speed spring retainer, idle speed adjusting screw, high-speed spring,
spring plunger, low-speed spring, spring seat, and spring cap as an assembly.
5. On fuel squeezer engines, loosen the set screw in the Belleville spring retainer nut.
6. Remove the retainer nut, two flat washers, and two Belleville washers from the high-speed
spring plunger.
7. Remove the low-speed spring cap, spring, and spring seat from the high-speed spring
plunger.
8. Depress the high-speed spring by hand, and remove the idle speed adjusting screw locknut.
9. Remove the high-speed spring seat, high-speed spring, and idle speed adjusting screw
from the high-speed spring plunger.
10. Refer to section 2.24.6, step 13, to continue disassembly of governor.
2.24.8 Disassemble the High and Low-Speed Springs, Plunger, and

Adjusting Screws (Dual-Range Governor)
Disassemble the high and low-speed springs, plunger, and adjusting screws of the dual-range
governor as follows:
1. Clamp the flange of the governor housing in a soft jawed vise.
2. Remove the two bolts and lock washers securing the high-speed retainer housing and
piston assembly to the governor housing.
3. Withdraw the retainer housing, piston, shims, and sleeve from the governor housing
as an assembly.
NOTE:
Current governors have a blocking ring in the spring housing to prevent seal removal
from the rear cover end of the spring housing. This prevents seal ring damage.
4. Remove the sleeve, shims, cover, cover gasket, and piston and seal ring assembly from the
high-speed spring retainer housing. Remove the retainer housing gasket.
5. Remove the high-speed spring retainer with tool J 5345-12. Withdraw the retainer, idle
speed adjusting screw, high-speed spring, spring plunger, low-speed spring, spring seat,
and spring cap from the housing as an assembly.

6. Remove the low-speed spring cap, spring, and spring seat from the high-speed spring
plunger.
7. Depress the high-speed spring by hand, and remove the idle speed adjusting screw locknut.
8. Remove the high-speed spring seat, high-speed spring, and idle speed adjusting screw
from the high-speed spring plunger.
2.24.9 Disassemble the Governor Weights and Shaft Assembly (Double

and Single Weight Governors)
Remove the governor weights and shaft assembly (double and single weight governors) from the
governor housing as follows:
2. Remove the governor weight housing plug and gasket.
3. Bend the tang on the lock washer away from the head of the bolt. While keeping the weight
carrier from turning, remove the bearing retaining bolt, flat washer, and lock washer.

4. Thread a 5/16 in.-24 x 3 in. bolt into the bearing retaining bolt hole. Support the governor
housing on the bed of an arbor press, and press the governor weight shaft from the bearing.
See Figure 2-131.
1. Governor Weight Shaft 3. Bolt 5/16 in.-24

2. Bearing
Figure 2-131 Removing Governor Weight Shaft Assembly from Governor

Housing
5. Slide the governor riser thrust bearing and riser from the weight shaft.
NOTE:
The thrust bearing is specially designed to absorb thrust load. Looseness between the
mating parts does not indicate excessive wear.
6. Remove the weight shaft bearing from the governor housing. If necessary, use a small
brass rod and hammer to tap the bearing out of the housing.
2.24.10 Disassemble Governor Weights and Shaft Assembly on

Turbocharged Engines
Disassemble the governor weights and shaft assembly on turbocharged engines as follows:

1. If weight removal is necessary, remove the retainers, and press the weight pins from
the low-speed weights. See Figure 2-132.
1. High-Speed Weight 5. Flat Washer

2. Bushing 6. Retainer
3. Weight Pin 7. Low-Speed Weight
4. Weight Carrier
Figure 2-132 Cross Section of Governor Weight Assemblies
NOTE:
The high-speed weights are not a press fit.

2. If weight carrier removal is necessary, support the shaft, weight carrier, and sleeve on
arbor press bed. Press the shaft out of the weight carrier. See Figure 2-133.
1. Sleeve 3. Weight Carrier

2. Weight Shaft
Figure 2-133 Removing Governor Weight Shaft from Weight

3. Position the high-speed governor weight on a sleeve on an arbor press bed. Press the
bearing from the weight using replacer J 8985. See Figure 2-134.
1. Sleeve 2. Weight
Figure 2-134 Removing Governor Weight Bearings using Tool J 8985
4. Remove the governor weights.

5. Remove the governor linkage. Refer to section 2.24.11.
2.24.11 Disassembly of Governor Linkage and Operating Shaft
Disassemble the governor linkage and operating shaft from the governor housing as follows:
1. Remove the spring retainer and plain washer securing the connecting link to the
differential lever. Remove the connecting link.
2. Remove the spring retainer and plain washer securing the differential lever to the operating
shaft lever. Remove the differential lever.
3. Remove the low-speed gap adjusting screw from the operating shaft lever, if necessary.
4. Remove the screw, lock washer, and lock clip securing the control link operating lever
shaft in the housing.

5. Lift the shaft out of the housing. Remove the operating lever and two flat washers at
each side of the operating lever.
NOTE:
Do not lose the two flat washers located between the lever assembly and the governor
housing.
6. Remove the expansion plug from the bottom of the governor housing.
7. Remove the operating shaft upper bearing retainer screw, lock washer, and flat washer
securing the bearing in the governor housing.
8. With the two dowel pins in the top of the housing between the two steel supports, support
the governor housing, bottom side up, on the bed of an arbor press.
9. Place a small brass rod on the end of the operating shaft. Press the shaft out of the bearing.
See Figure 2-135.
1. Lower Bearing 2. Brass Rod
Figure 2-135 Removing Operating Shaft from Operating Shaft Lower Bearing

10. With the housing still supported on the press bed, place a 9/16 in. open end wrench under
the operating fork. See Figure 2-136.
1. 9/16 in. Wrench 3. Operating Shaft

2. Operating Fork 4. Brass Rod
Figure 2-136 Removing Operating Fork Shaft and Lever Assembly from
Governor Housing
11. Place a brass rod on the end of the shaft, and press the fork off of the operating shaft.
Remove the shaft, operating lever, and bearing from the housing as an assembly.
12. Remove the operating shaft lower bearing from the bottom of the governor housing.
13. Slide the governor operating shaft spacer from the shaft.
14. Place a short 9/16 in. inside diameter sleeve over the end of the operating shaft. Rest it
against the bearing inner race on the operating shaft.

NOTICE:
To prevent part damage, the bearing inner race must rest on the
sleeve.
15. Support the operating shaft, lever, bearing, and sleeve on a large washer or plate with a
5/8 in. hole. Place them on an arbor press bed. See Figure 2-137.
1. Operating Shaft 4. Bearing

2. Operating Lever 5. Sleeve
3. Brass Rod 6. Washer
Figure 2-137 Removing Operating Lever and Upper Bearing from Operating
Shaft
NOTICE:
To prevent part damage, catch the shaft by hand when pressing
it from the lever and bearing.
16. Place a small brass rod on the shaft end. Press the operating shaft out of the operating
lever and bearing.
17. If needle bearing removal is necessary, support the control link operating lever on a sleeve.
Rest the sleeve on the arbor press bed.

18. Place tool J 8985 on top of the bearing, and press both bearings out of the lever.
See Figure 2-138.
Figure 2-138 Removing Operating Lever Needle Bearings using Tool J 8985
19. Refer to section 2.24.12, to complete governor disassembly.
2.24.12 Disassembly of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (Continued)
Disassembly of Governor (Continued):

1. Remove the buffer screw from the governor housing.
2. Remove the external starting aid screw from the governor housing, if necessary.
2.24.12.1 Cleaning of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor
Clean the limiting speed mechanical governor parts as follows:

FIRE
vapors:
1. Wash the parts in clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
2.24.12.2 Inspection of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor
Inspect the limiting speed mechanical governor as follows:

1. Visually inspect the needle bearings for wear or damage.
[a] If the bearings are worn or damaged, replace them. Refer to section 2.24.13.
[b] If the bearings are not worn or damaged, continue inspection.
2. Visually inspect the needle bearings for corrosion or pitting.
[a] If corroded or pitted, replace the bearings. Refer to section 2.24.13.
[b] If not corroded or pitted, continue inspection.
3. While keeping the bearing inner race from turning, revolve the outer race slowly by
hand, checking for rough spots.
[a] If rough spots are evident, replace the bearings. Refer to section 2.24.13.
[b] If no rough spots are detected, continue inspection.
4. Visually inspect the riser thrust bearing for excessive wear, flat spots, or corrosion.

[a] If excessively worn, corroded, or flat spots are detected, replace the riser thrust
bearing. Refer to section 2.24.13.
[b] If not excessively worn, corroded, or flat spots are not detected, continue inspection.
5. Visually inspect the weight carrier pins and bushings in the weights for wear.
[a] If excessively worn, replace the weight carrier pins and bushings. Refer to section
2.24.13.
[b] If not excessively worn, proceed with the inspection.
6. Visually inspect the control link operating lever shaft for wear or damage.
[a] If the speed control and stop lever shaft has worn or damaged needle bearings or
bushing, replace parts as necessary. Refer to section 2.24.13.
7. Visually inspect the spring seats, plunger, adjusting screws, locknuts, pins, seal rings, and
any other parts in the governor housing for wear or defects that might affect governor
operation.
[a] Replace all worn or damaged parts. Refer to section 2.24.13.
[b] If not worn or damaged, reuse the limiting speed governor components.
NOTE:
The former and current cover and shaft assemblies are interchangeable on a governor.
When replacing the former cover, replacement of both the cover and shaft assembly is
needed. Current covers may be serviced separately.
2.24.13 Assembly of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor
See Figure 2-139 and see Figure 2-140. Assemble the limiting speed mechanical governor as
follows:

1. Low-Speed Weight (Left Side) 15. Bearing Retainer Bolt

2. High-Speed Weight (Left Side) 16. Housing Plug Gasket
3. Weight Pin Retainer Pin 17. Governor Housing Plug
4. Weight Pin 18. Operating Shaft Bearing (Lower)
5. Flat Washer 19. Expansion Plug
6. Lock Washer 20. Housing to Blower Bolt
7. Governor Weight Carrier 21. Governor Housing
8. Low-Speed Weight (Right Side) 22. Buffer Locknut and Screw
9. High-Speed Weight (Right Side) 23. Housing-to-Blower Gasket
10. Governor Housing Cover 24. Riser Thrust Bearing
11. Locknut 25. Governor Riser
12. Starting Aid Adjusting Screw (External) 26. Weight Pin Retainer Ring

13. Weight Carrier Shaft End Bearing 27. Weight Carrier Shaft
14. Special Lock Washer
Figure 2-139 Limiting Speed Double-Weight Governor (1 of 2)
28. Housing Cover Screw 44. Gap Adjusting Screw (External)

29. Stop Lever Shaft Bushing 45. Operating Shaft Lever
30. Stop Shaft Seal Ring 46. Operating Shaft Bearing (Upper)
31. Seal Ring Retainer Washer 47. Fuel Rod Connecting Pin (Long)
32. Stop Shaft Snap Ring 48. Governor Operating Shaft
33. Speed Control Shaft Spacer 49. Operating Shaft Spacer
34. Speed Control Shaft Snap Ring 50. Operating Shaft Fork
35. Control Shaft Seal Ring 51. Operating Lever Bearing
36. Speed Control Shaft Bearing 52. Operator Lever Bearing
37. Governor Housing Cover Gasket 53. Control Link Operating Lever

38. Speed Control Shaft Lever 54. Fuel Rod Connecting Pin (Short)
39. Spring Retainer 55. Operating Lever Shaft Lock Clip
40. Differential Lever and Connecting Link Flat Washer 56. Screw
41. Operating Connecting Link Lever 57. Shaft Lever Pin
42. Differential Lever Pin 58. Stop Lever Shaft Return Spring
43. Governor Differential Lever
Figure 2-140 Limiting Speed Double-Weight Governor (2 of 2)
NOTE:
If previously removed, install the external starting aid screw in the governor housing.
Assemble the operating shaft and governor linkage in the governor housing as follows:
FIRE
vapors:
1. Lubricate the inside diameter of the governor operating shaft upper bearing with engine
oil. Start the bearing, numbered side up, straight on the large end of the operating shaft.
2. Support the bearing and operating shaft on a 9/16 in. inside diameter sleeve, and place it
on an arbor press bed with the inner race of the bearing resting on the sleeve.
3. Press the shaft into the bearing until 1/4 in. of the shaft protrudes through the bearing.
4. Install the bearing, numbered side up, on the shaft, and press it tight against the bearing
washer.

FIRE
vapors:
5. Lubricate the inside diameter of the governor operating shaft lever with engine oil.
6. Start the lever, operating lever pivot pin face up, straight on the operating shaft.
NOTE:
The flat on the shaft should register with the flat surface in the lever.
7. Support the operating lever, bearing, and shaft on an arbor press bed with a steel support
directly under the center of the lever.
8. Press the operating shaft through the bearing and lever until the end of the shaft contacts
the steel support.
NOTE:
The upper end of the shaft must be flush with the top surface of the lever.
9. Place the operating shaft spacer over the lower end of the shaft, and slide it against the
upper bearing inner race.
10. Insert the end of the governor operating shaft, bearing, spacer, and lever assembly through
the upper bearing bore in the governor housing.

FIRE
vapors:
11. Lubricate the inside diameter of the governor operating shaft fork with engine oil.
12. Place the operating fork over the lower end of the shaft, with the finished cam surfaces on
the fork fingers facing the rear of the governor housing.
NOTE:
The flat on the shaft should register with the flat surface in the fork.

13. Support the governor housing and operating shaft assembly on an arbor press bed, with
the upper end of the operating shaft resting on a steel support. See Figure 2-141.
1. Support 3. Fork
2. Sleeve 4. Shaft
Figure 2-141 Installing Governor Operating Shaft Fork on Shaft
14. Place a 7/16 in. inside diameter sleeve over the end of the shaft and against the fork. Press
the fork tightly against the shaft spacer on the shaft

FIRE
vapors:
15. Lubricate the governor operating shaft lower bearing with engine oil. Start the bearing,
numbered side up, straight in the governor housing and over the end of the operating shaft.
16. Support the governor housing and operating shaft assembly on the bed of an arbor press.
NOTE:
The upper end of the operating shaft should rest on a steel support.
17. Place a 7/16 in. inside diameter sleeve on the inner race of the bearing. Press the bearing
on the shaft until it seats on the shoulder in the housing.
18. Install the governor operating shaft upper bearing retaining flat washer, lock washer, and
screw in the governor housing.
19. Apply a thin coat of good quality sealant around the edge of a new expansion plug.
20. Place the plug, concave side up, in the opening in the housing next to the lower operating
shaft bearing. Tap the center of the plug with a hammer to secure the plug in the housing.
21. Place the differential lever over the pivot pin in the operating lever, and secure it with a
plain washer and spring retainer.
22. If removed, place the control link operating lever on the arbor press bed with steel support
under the bearing bore.

FIRE
vapors:
23. Lubricate the bearing with engine oil, and start the bearing, numbered end up, straight
into the bore of the lever.
24. Insert the pilot end of installer J 8985 in the bearing. Press the bearing into the lever until
it is flush with the top surface of the lever.
25. Reverse the lever on the press, and install the second bearing in the same manner.
26. Lubricate the control link operating lever needle bearings with Shell Alvania No. 2 grease,
or equivalent
27. Place the operating lever in position between the two bosses inside the governor housing.
Insert a flat washer on each side of the lever.
28. Install the operating lever shaft with the slot up.
29. Align the slot in the operating lever shaft with the lock clip screw hole in the boss next to
the shaft.
30. Install and tighten the lock clip, lock washer, and screw.
31. Place one end of the connecting link over the differential lever pin. Secure it with a
washer and spring retainer.
32. Place the opposite end of the connecting link on top of the control link operating lever.
Install the connecting pin.
33. If removed, thread the locknut on the buffer screw, and thread the buffer screw into the
governor housing.
34. Refer to section 2.24.14 to assemble the governor double weights (non-turbocharged
engines).
35. Refer to section 2.24.15 to assemble the governor double weights (turbocharged engines).
36. Refer to section 2.24.16 to assemble the governor single weights.

2.24.14 Assemble Governor Double Weights on Carrier and Shaft

Assembly (Non-Turbocharged Engines)
Assemble the governor double weights on the carrier and shaft assembly on non-turbocharged
engines as follows:
1. Position the low-speed weights, identified by the short cam arm, on opposite sides of
the weight carrier.
2. Drive the weight pins in place, and install the retaining rings.
3. Install the high-speed weights on the carrier. Push the grooved end through the smaller
hole in the carrier and through the weight. Drive the knurled end in so the retaining ring
can be installed on the pin.
FIRE
vapors:
4. Lubricate the weight shaft with clean engine oil.

5. Refer to section 2.24.17 for installation of the governor weights and shaft assembly in
governor housing.
2.24.15 Assemble Governor Double Weights on Carrier and Shaft

Assembly (Turbocharged Engines)
Assemble the governor double weight and shaft assembly on turbocharged engines as follows:
NOTE:
If the governor weight carrier assembly was removed from the weight shaft, the low
and high-speed weights must be removed from the carrier before attempting to install
the carrier on the shaft.

1. Support the weight carrier, rear face up, on a sleeve and a steel support with a 1 in. hole
over an opening in the arbor press bed. See Figure 2-142.
1. Weight Carrier 3. Sleeve

2. Shaft
Figure 2-142 Installing Governor Weight Shaft in Weight Carrier
FIRE
vapors:
2. Lubricate the weight shaft with engine oil. Insert the non-splined end of the shaft through
the carrier, sleeve and hole in the steel support. Press the shaft straight into the carrier
until the shoulder on the shaft is tight against the carrier.

3. Install a retainer on either end of the weight pin.
NOTE:
Observe the matchmarks placed on the weight carrier and weights at the time of
disassembly.
4. Slide the weight pin through the carrier, flat washer, and the high-speed weight and its
bushing.
5. Place the low-speed weight in position. Press the weight pin through the low-speed weight
and carrier until the retainer bottoms against the carrier.
NOTE:
Maintain a clearance of 0.102–0.305 mm (0.004–0.012 in.) with the weight pressed in
position. To maintain this clearance, insert a 0.102–0.305 mm (0.004–0.012 in.) shim
between the low-speed weight and carrier while pressing the pin into position.
6. Remove the shim, and install the second weight pin retainer.
7. Install the second pair of weights (three pairs of weights in the 12V and 16V turbocharged
engine governor) in the carrier.
8. Refer to section 2.24.17 for installation of governor weights and shaft assembly.
2.24.16 Assemble Governor Single Weights
Assemble the governor single weights as follows:

1. Install the retainer in the weight pin groove. Place a flat washer over the pin and against
the lock ring.
2. Start the pin through the opening in the weight carrier. Place a second washer over the
pin and against the projecting arm of the weight carrier.
3. Position the governor weight between the projecting arms of the weight carrier. Push the
pin through the governor weight.
4. Place the third flat washer over the pin and against the weight.
5. Push the pin completely through the weight carrier, and place the fourth flat washer over
the pin and against the projecting arm of the weight carrier.
6. Install a second lock ring in the groove of the weight carrier pin.
7. Install the second governor weight in a similar manner.
8. Refer to section 2.24.17 for installation of governor weights and shaft assembly.
2.24.17 Install Governor Weights and Shaft Assembly in Governor

Housing
Install the governor weight and shaft assembly in the governor housing as follows:

1. Slide the governor riser on the weight shaft and against the fingers of the high-speed
weight.
2. Place the governor riser thrust bearing over the weight shaft with the bearing race having
the smaller inside diameter against the riser.
NOTE:
Ensure bearings are properly installed. Incorrect bearing installation will result in erratic
governor operation.
3. Insert the weight carrier and shaft assembly in the governor housing. Support the splined
end of the shaft and the governor housing on the arbor press bed with the upper end
of the shaft under the press ram.
4. Place the weight shaft bearing in the governor housing (numbered side up). Start it straight
on the end of the weight carrier shaft.
5. Place a sleeve with a 1/2 in. inside diameter on top of the bearing inner race. Press the
bearing into the housing and against the shoulder on the shaft.
6. Place the special lock washer on the end of the weight carrier shaft with the tang on the
inner washer diameter in the notch in the shaft end.
7. Place the flat washer on the bearing retainer bolt and thread the bolt into the shaft.
8. Clamp the splined end of the weight carrier shaft in the soft jaws of a bench vise. Tighten
the bearing retainer bolt to 20-26 N·m (15-19 lb·ft) torque. Bend the tang on the lock
washer against the bolt head.
9. Place a gasket against the weight shaft bearing. Apply a sealant such as Loctite grade H,
HV or HVW, or equivalent, on the threads of the governor housing and the plug.
10. Thread the plug into the housing. Tighten the plug to 61 N·m (45 lb·ft) torque.
11. Rotate the governor weight assembly. If it binds, remove the housing plug, and ensure the
weight shaft bearing is fully seated in the governor housing.
12. Refer to section 2.24.18 to assemble the high and low-speed spring plunger and adjusting
screw (except dual-range governors).
13. Refer to section 2.24.19 to assemble the high and low-speed spring plunger and adjusting
screw (dual-range governors).
2.24.18 Assemble High and Low-Speed Spring Plunger and Adjusting

Screw (Except Dual-Range Governors)
See Figure 2-143 and see Figure 2-144. Assemble the high and low-speed spring, plunger and
adjusting screw (except dual-range governors) as follows:

1. Cap 9. Housing
2. Low-Speed Spring 10. Washer
3. Spring Seat 11. Bolt
4. Plunger 12. Gasket
5. High-Speed Spring 13. Former Adjusting Screw
6. Retainer 14. Small Locknut
7. Adjusting Pin 15. Large Locknut
8. Set Screw
Figure 2-143 High and Low-Speed Springs and Plunger

1. Spring Cap 9. Set Screw

2. Spring Retainer 10. Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
3. Locknut 11. Locknut
4. Bushing 12. Idle Speed Pin
5. Washer 13. Plunger
6. Belleville Spring Washer 14. High-Speed Spring
7. Washer 15. Low-Speed Spring Seat
8. Retainer Nut 16. Low-Speed Spring
Figure 2-144 High and Low-Speed Springs and Plunger Details Including
Belleville Washers (Fuel Squeezer Engines)
1. If removed, thread the retainer locknut on the high-speed spring retainer approximately
1-1/2 in. Place the high-speed spring on the high-speed spring plunger with the close
wound coils inside the spring retainer and the spring against the shoulder of the plunger.
NOTE:
Current TA engines operating at 1750 RPM full-load use a high-speed spring with one
orange and one blue strip for identification. Engines operating at 1950-2100 RPM
full-load use a high-speed spring with two pink stripes for identification.
2. Insert the high-speed spring and plunger assembly in the high-speed spring retainer.
Thread the idle speed adjusting screw into the threaded end of the plunger approximately
1/2 in. Thread the locknut on the idle speed adjusting screw.
3. Place the low-speed spring in the low-speed spring cap and the small end of the low-speed
spring seat in the opposite end of the spring.

4. Insert the low-speed spring seat, spring, and cap assembly into the high-speed spring
plunger and over the idle speed adjusting pin.
5. For fuel squeezer engines, install the bushing in the end of the high-speed spring retainer,
if removed, and align the two flat washers and two Belleville spring washers.
6. Install the set screw in the Belleville spring retainer nut, and thread the retainer nut onto
the high-speed plunger.
7. Affix a new high-speed spring retainer housing gasket to the governor housing.
8. Insert the spring, plunger, and retainer assembly into the opening in the governor housing,
and thread the retainer into the housing approximately one inch.
9. Install the high-speed spring retainer housing after the governor assembly has been
installed on the engine, and the governor adjustment procedures have been performed.
Refer to section 12.4 and Refer to section 12.5.
2.24.19 Assemble High and Low-Speed Spring Plunger and Adjusting

Screw (Dual-Range Governors)
See Figure 2-145. Assemble the high and low-speed springs, plunger, and adjusting screws
(dual-range governor) as follows:

1. Former Adjusting Screw 13. Piston

2. Retainer 14. Shim (0.100 in.)
3. Sleeve 15. Shim (0.010 in.)
4. Short Bolt 16. Cap
5. Long Bolt 17. Low-Speed Spring
6. Washer 18. Seat
7. Cover 19. Plunger
8. Gasket 20. High-Speed Spring
9. Ring 21. Guide
10. Housing 22. Adjusting Pin
11. Gasket 23. Set Screw
12. Seal Ring 24. Locknut
Figure 2-145 High and Low-Speed Springs, Plunger and Piston (Dual Range)

1. Thread the idle speed adjusting screw into the threaded end of the high-speed spring
plunger approximately 1/2 in.
2. Place the high-speed spring guide in the end of the high-speed spring. Place the high-speed
spring and guide over the end of the idle speed adjusting screw and plunger.
3. Thread the locknut on the idle speed adjusting screw and against the spring guide.
4. Place the low-speed spring in the low-speed spring cap and the small end of the low-speed
spring seat in the opposite end of the spring.
plunger and over the idle speed adjusting screw.
6. Place the high-speed spring retainer over the high-speed spring guide. Insert the springs,
plunger, and retainer assembly into the opening in the governor housing.
7. Thread the retainer into the housing. Tighten the retainer in the housing with tool
J 5345-12.
8. If removed, install the piston blocking ring in the outer end of the high-speed spring
retainer housing with the ring gap straddling the threaded hole and flush with the outside
face of the housing.
9. Place the piston seal ring in the groove in the speed adjusting piston.
10. Apply a thin coat of grease on the inside diameter of the retainer housing. Insert the solid
end of the speed adjusting piston in the retainer housing.
11. Install the four thick and the ten thin high-speed spring shims inside the speed adjusting
piston. Insert the small end of the piston sleeve inside the piston and against the shims.
12. Affix a new high-speed spring retainer housing gasket to the governor housing.
13. If removed, thread the low maximum speed adjusting screw into the high-speed spring
retainer housing cover approximately one inch. Affix a new gasket to the inside face of
the cover.
14. Attach the high-speed spring retainer housing with piston, shims, sleeve, and cover to
the governor housing with two bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m
2.24.20 Assemble Governor Cover or Fuel Squeezer Engine Cover
Assemble the governor cover or fuel squeezer engine cover as follows:

FIRE
vapors:
1. If the speed control lever shaft needle bearing was removed from the cover, place the
cover, inner face down, on two steel supports on an arbor press bed. Lubricate the outside
diameter of a bearing with engine oil, and start the bearing, numbered end up, straight in
the cover boss bore.
2. Place the correct end of the bearing installer J 21068 in the bearing. See Figure 2-146.
Press the bearing into the bore until the stop on the installer contacts the cover boss.

1. Bearings
Figure 2-146 Installing Bearing in Governor Cover
NOTE:
Installer J 21068 has a pilot on each end. One end is for the speed control shaft upper
bearing. The other is for the stop shaft bushing or upper bearing.
FIRE
vapors:
3. Reverse the governor cover, inner face up, on the bed of the arbor press. Lubricate the
outside diameter of the lower bearing with engine oil.
4. Start the bearing, numbered end up, straight in the bore in the cover boss.
5. Place the bearing installer J 21068 in the bearing, and press the bearing in the bore until it
is flush with the face of the boss.
6. On a governor cover equipped with stop lever shaft needle bearing, install the needle
bearings.
NOTE:
Use the small pilot end of installer J 21068 to install the bearings.

FIRE
vapors:
7. Lubricate the outside diameter of a bearing with engine oil, and start the bearing,
numbered end up, straight in the cover boss bore.
8. Place the correct end of the bearing installer J 21068 in the bearing. Press the bearing into
the bore until the stop on the installer contacts the cover boss.
NOTE:
FIRE
vapors:
9. Reverse the governor cover, inner face up, on an arbor press bed. Lubricate the outside
diameter of the lower bearing with engine oil.

10. On a governor equipped with a stop lever shaft bushing, install the bushing in the cover.
See Figure 2-147. Use the small pilot end of installer J 21068 to install the bushing.
1. Bushing
Figure 2-147 Installing Bushings Governor Case
FIRE
vapors:
11. Lubricate the outside diameter of a bearing with engine oil, and start the bearing,
numbered end up, straight in the cover boss bore.

12. Place the correct end of the bearing installer J 21068 in the bearing. Press the bearing into
the bore until the stop on the installer contacts the cover boss.
NOTE:
FIRE
vapors:
13. Reverse the governor cover, inner face up, on the bed of the arbor press. Lubricate the
outside diameter of the lower bearing with engine oil.
14. Lubricate the stop lever shaft needle bearings or bushing with Shell Alvania No. 2 grease,
or equivalent.
15. Place the stop lever shaft return spring over the boss on the inner face of the cover. Insert
the shaft part way through the bearings or bushing, and hook the return spring end over
the lever end.
16. Push the shaft in the cover. Position the lever end on the right side of the stop pin.
NOTE:
Seal rings made of a Viton material are being used for the speed control lever shaft and
for the stop lever shaft.
17. Place a new seal ring over the shaft, and push it into the bearing bore and against the
bearing or bushing.
18. Place the two seal ring retainer washers on the shaft and against the cover boss. Install
the snap ring in the groove in the shaft.
19. Install the stop lever on the shaft, and secure with the retaining bolt and lock washer.
20. Lubricate the speed control shaft needle bearings with Shell Alvania No. 2 grease, or
equivalent. Insert the speed control shaft through the bearings.
21. Place the seal ring over the shaft, and push it into the bearing bore and against the bearing.

the snap ring in the groove in the shaft.
23. Install the spacer on the speed control shaft (slip fit) against the retaining washers and
over the snap ring.
24. Install the speed control lever on the shaft. Secure it in place with the retaining bolt and
lock washer.
NOTE:
Ensure that the lever contacts the spacer.
25. Install the lubrication fitting in the speed control shaft.
2.24.21 Installation of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (6V and 8V

Engines)
Install the limiting speed mechanical governor on 6V and 8V engines as follows:

1. Affix a new gasket to the fuel pump bolting flange.
2. Place the fuel pump against the governor housing in its original position, and secure it with
the three bolt and seal assemblies. Tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
3. If removed, place a fuel rod cover tube hose and clamp on each fuel rod cover tube at
each side of the governor housing.
4. Affix a new gasket to the forward face of the blower end plate.
5. Place the fuel pump drive fork on the fuel pump shaft. Position the governor and fuel
pump assembly in front of the blower.
6. Rotate the fuel pump fork until the fork prongs align with the drive disc slots.
7. Rotate the weight shaft, and align the shaft splines with the blower rotor splines.
8. Push the governor straight over the dowels in the blower end plate and against the gasket.
9. See Figure 2-148 for torque sequence and bolt locations. Listed in Table 2-7 are the
corresponding bolt locations and bolt sizes. Install the bolts, lock washers, copper

washers, and plain washer securing the governor to the blower. Tighten the bolts to
18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
Figure 2-148 Torque Sequence and Location of Governor Mounting Bolts
Bolt Size Washer Position

5/16 in. 18 x 5-1/4 in. Copper 4
5/16 in. 18 x 4 Copper 10
5/16 in. 18 x 3-3/4 in. Lock and Plain 1
5/16 in. 18 x 2-1/4 in. Lock and Plain 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
Table 2-7 Corresponding Location and Size of Governor Retaining Bolts
10. Slide each fuel rod cover tube hose on the cover tube attached to the cylinder heads.
Tighten the hose clamps.
11. Install and connect the crossover fuel oil line to each cylinder head, and connect the fuel
oil lines to the fuel pump.
12. Place the water bypass tube between the two thermostat housings, and slide the hoses part
way on the thermostat housings.
13. Position the bypass tube so it clears the governor, fuel pump, and fuel oil lines. Tighten
the hose clamps.
14. Insert the lower end of the left-bank fuel rod through the top of the governor housing and
through the fuel rod cover tubes to the injector control tube lever.
15. Raise the connecting pin in the control link operating lever.

16. Insert the end of the fuel rod between the two bosses on the lever. Insert the connecting
pin through the fuel rod and into the lower boss.
17. Connect the opposite end of the fuel rod to the injector control tube lever with a clevis
pin and cotter pin.
18. Insert the lower end of the right-bank fuel rod through the top of the governor housing and
19. Remove the short screw pin from the control link operating lever.
20. Insert the end of the fuel rod between the two bosses on the lever, and install the screw
pin. Tighten the pin securely.
pin and cotter pin.
22. Affix a new gasket to the top of the governor housing. Place the governor cover assembly
on the governor housing with the speed control shaft assembly pin in the differential lever
slot and the housing dowel pins in the dowel pin holes in the cover.
23. Install the eight governor cover attaching screws and lock washers. Tighten the screws
securely.
NOTE:
The short cover attaching screw, with the drilled head, goes in the corner hole next to
the high-speed spring retainer housing.
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from engine run-on when an emergency
shutdown is required, do not use damaged shutdown
devices.
24. Using a new gasket, install the cylinder head rocker covers.
25. Install all accessories removed from the cylinder head, governor, or the front end of the
engine.
26. Connect the control linkage to the speed control and stop levers.
27. Close the drain cocks, and fill the cooling system.
28. Perform the governor and injector rack control adjustment. Refer to section 12.4.
2.24.22 Installation of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (12V and 16V

Engine)
Install the limiting speed mechanical governors on 12V and 16V engines as follows:
1. Affix a new governor housing gasket to the forward face of the blower end plate.

2. Position the governor in front of the end plate. Align the weight shaft splines with the
blower rotor splines.
3. Push the weight shaft in the rotor, and slide the governor housing over the dowel pins in
the end plate and against the gasket.
4. See Figure 2-149 for torque sequence and bolt locations. Listed in Table 2-8 are the
corresponding bolt locations and bolt sizes. Install the bolts, lock washers, plain washer,
and copper washers that secure the governor to the blower. Tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m
Figure 2-149 Torque Sequence and Location of Governor Mounting Bolts
Bolt Size Washer Position

5/16 in. 18 x 5-1/4 in. Copper 4
5/16 in. 18 x 4 Copper 10
5/16 in. 18 x 3-3/4 in. Lock and Plain 1
5/16 in. 18 x 2-1/4 in. Lock and Plain 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
Table 2-8 Corresponding Location and Size of Governor Retaining Bolts
5. Affix a new blower housing gasket to the cylinder block with a good grade gasket cement
to prevent the gasket from shifting when the blower is positioned.

FALLING COMPONENT
NOTICE:
FALLING COMPONENT
NOTICE:
Ensure blower is securely attached to the engine before
releasing the lifting sling. Blower damage may result if the
blower falls from the engine.
7. Lift the blower and governor assembly, at a slight angle, and position it on top of the
cylinder block, with the rear end plate cover flange inside the blower drive shaft cover
hose.
8. Finger-tighten a 7/16 in.-14 x 8-1/4 in. bolt and special washer in each blower end plate
center hole. Finger-tighten the 3/8 in.-16 x 5-1/2 in. bolts and retaining washers at each
side of the blower housing.
NOTE:
The lip at the beveled end of the bolt retaining washer goes in the small recess in the
housing just above the bolt slot.
9. Tighten the bolts as follows:

[a] Tighten the blower-to-block end plate bolts to 54-81 N·m (40-60 lb·ft) torque.
[b] Tighten the blower housing-to-block side angle bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft)
torque in 7 N·m (5 lb·ft) increments.
[c] Recheck the torque on the blower-to-block end plate bolts.

10. Slide the blower drive support-to-blower hose (seal) and clamps into position, and tighten
the clamps.
11. Insert the blower drive shaft through the blower drive flexible coupling and into the blower
drive coupling. Install the retaining snap ring in the coupling groove.
12. Affix a new gasket to the flywheel housing hole cover, and attach the cover to the flywheel
housing with six bolts and lock washers.
13. Refer to section 2.24.23 for installation of the limiting speed mechanical governor
(engines equipped with a hydraulic oil pump).
14. Refer to section 2.24.24 for installation of the limiting speed mechanical governor
(engines equipped with a rear mounted battery charging alternator).
15. On an engine equipped with a hydraulic oil pump, refer to M.MH. Marine Service Manual
- Form 00SA1984.
16. Connect the blower drive support oil tube to the fitting in the blower drive support.
Tighten the two seal ring retaining plate bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
17. Affix a new gasket to the fuel pump flange.
18. Install the fuel pump drive fork and fuel pump on the governor housing.
19. Connect the fuel pump inlet and outlet tubes or hoses to the fuel pump.
20. Slide the governor housing to auxiliary control link housing hose, and clamp it into
position between the two housings. Tighten the hose clamp.
21. Slide the fuel rod cover hose on the cover tube attached to the cylinder head at each side of
the governor housing. Tighten the hose clamps.
22. Place the control link operating lever connecting link in position in the governor and
auxiliary housings, and connect it to the ball joint studs in the control link operating levers.
23. Refer to section 2.24.25 for installation of the limiting speed mechanical governor (fuel
rods between the cylinder head and governor).
24. Place a new auxiliary control link housing cover gasket on the housing. Install the cover,
and secure it with screws and lock washers.
25. Place a new governor housing cover gasket on the housing. Install the cover, and secure
it with screws and lock washers.
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
26. Using new gaskets, install the cylinder head rocker covers.
27. On a non-turbocharged engine, proceed as follows:

[a] Remove the cover from the top of the blower.

[b] Place the blower screen, wire side down, on top of the blower, and install the air
shutdown adaptor.
[c] Attach the air shutdown housings and gaskets to the adaptors.
28. On turbocharged engines, proceed as follows:
[b] Place the blower screen, wire side down, and install the air shutdown adaptor and
air shutdown housing as an assembly on the blower.
[c] Attach the shutdown rod to the lever on the shutdown housing.
29. On marine engines, proceed as follows:
[a] Remove the cover from the top of the blowers.
[b] Place the blower screen, wire side down, on top of the blower, and install the air
shutdown housings.
30. On non-turbocharged engines, connect the air inlet tubes to the air shutdown housings.
31. On turbocharged engines, attach the air inlet tube to the rear air shutdown housing and the
turbocharger.
32. On marine engines, install the air silencers on the air shutdown housings.
33. Connect the linkage that was removed to the governor speed control and stop levers.
34. Perform an engine tune-up. Refer to section 12.1.
2.24.23 Installation of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (Engines

Equipped with a Hydraulic Oil Pump)
On engines equipped with a hydraulic oil pump, proceed as follows:

1. Install the drive coupling and the drive coupling hub.
2. Install the oil pump, adaptor, and gaskets from the flywheel housing.
3. Secure with six bolts and lock washers.
4. Refer to section 2.24.22, step 15, to continue installation of the limiting speed mechanical
governor.
2.24.24 Installation of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (Engines


1. Affix a new gasket to the alternator drive assembly.
2. Place the alternator drive coupling on the drive hub.

3. Place the drive assembly into position, and align the slots in the drive coupling with the
drive hub on the blower drive gear.
4. Place the drive assembly against the flywheel housing, and install the bolts, lock washers,
and alternator adjusting strap.
5. Install the alternator drive pulley and drive belt.
6. Refer to section 2.24.22, step 15, to continue installation of the limiting speed mechanical
governor.
2.24.25 Installation of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (Fuel Rods

Between Cylinder Heads and Governor)
Install the fuel rods between the cylinder heads and the governor as follows:
2. Raise the connecting pin in the control link operating lever.
3. Insert the end of the fuel rod between the two bosses on the lever, and insert the connecting
pin through the fuel rod and into the lower boss.
pin and cotter pin.
7. Insert the end of the fuel rod between the two bosses on the lever and install the screw pin.
Tighten the pin securely.
pin and cotter pin.
9. Refer to section 2.24.22, step 24, to complete installation of the limiting speed mechanical
governor.

2.25 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR (VARIABLE LOW-SPEED)
The variable low-speed limiting speed mechanical governor is used on highway vehicle engines
where the same engine powers both the vehicle and auxiliary equipment used to unload bulk
products (such as cement, grain, and liquids) and a high idle speed range is desired during
auxiliary operation.
The governor is a single-weight type and provides an idle speed range of 500 to 1800 RPM. The
governor is mounted on the front end of the blower and is driven by one of the blower rotors.
A nameplate attached to the governor housing identifies the governor. The letters V.L.S.L.S.
stamped on the nameplate denote a variable low-speed limiting speed mechanical governor.
During highway operation, the governor functions as a limiting speed governor, controlling the
engine idling speed and limiting the maximum operating speed. At the unloading area, the throttle
is left in the idle speed position and the speed adjusting handle, on the cable operated governor, is
turned to the speed required within the above range to operate the auxiliary equipment. For the
air operated governor, increasing or decreasing the air supply pressure to the governor changes
the required engine speed. The governor functions as a variable speed governor, maintaining a
constant speed when the load is constantly changing during the unloading operation. Before
resuming highway operations, the speed adjusting handle on the cable operated governor must be
turned back to the stop and turned ahead about one-quarter of a turn. The air operated governor
air supply pressure must be vented before resuming highway operations.

(Variable Low-Speed)
To determine if repair or replacement is necessary, perform the following procedure. See Figure
2-150.


Mechanical Governor (Variable Low-Speed)
2.25.2 Removal of Cable Operated Governor
Remove the cable operated governor as follows:

1. Disconnect the manual control flexible shaft from the governor spring housing.
2. Remove the governor. Refer to section 2.24.3.
2.25.3 Removal of Air Operated Governor
Remove the air operated governor as follows:

1. Disconnect the air controls from the governor spring housing.
2. Remove the governor. Refer to section 2.24.3.
2.25.4 Disassembly of Cable Operated Governor
Disassemble the cable operated governor as follows:
NOTE:
The variable low-speed limiting speed governor is similar to the limiting speed governor,
with the exception of the spring housing and its components. Therefore, only the
disassembly procedure for the spring housing and its components is listed below.
Refer to section 2.24.6 for general governor disassembly procedure.
1. Clamp the governor housing flange in a soft-jawed vise.

2. Remove the two bolts and copper washers securing the spring housing to the governor
housing. Withdraw the spring housing and gasket. See Figure 2-151.
1. Low-Speed Spring Cap 11. Speed Adjusting Handle

2. Low-Speed Spring (Outer) 12. Spring Housing
3. Low-Speed Spring (Inner) 13. Adjusting Shaft Retainer
4. High-Speed Spring 14. Adjusting Locknut
5. Governor Housing 15. High-Speed Spring Plunger
6. Adjusting Shaft 16. High-Speed Spring Retainer
7. Adjusting Coupling 17. Gasket
8. Seal Ring 18. Spring Retainer Locknut
9. Flexible Shaft 19. Low-Speed Spring Plunger
10. Manual Control Assembly
Figure 2-151 Cable Operated Governor Spring Housing and Components

3. Remove the adjusting coupling from the adjusting shaft.

4. Hold the adjusting locknut with a wrench, and back off the retainer and adjusting shaft.
5. Unscrew the adjusting shaft from the retainer.
6. Unscrew the idle speed adjusting locknut from the end of the high-speed spring plunger.
7. Unscrew the high-speed spring retainer locknut. Remove the high-speed spring retainer,
plunger and spring, low-speed spring plunger, inner and outer springs, and low-speed
spring cap from the governor housing as an assembly.
8. Remove the high-speed spring retainer and spacer assembly and spring from the
high-speed spring plunger.
9. Remove the low-speed spring cap from the opposite end of the high-speed spring plunger,
and remove the low-speed spring plunger and the inner and outer low-speed springs.
See Figure 2-152.
1. Plunger
Figure 2-152 Rework Former Plunger and Cap
2.25.5 Disassembly of Air Operated Governor
Disassemble the air operated governor as follows:
NOTE:
The variable low-speed limiting speed governor is similar to the limiting speed governor,
with the exception of the spring housing and its components. Therefore, only the

disassembly procedure for the spring housing and its components is listed below.
Refer to section 2.24.6 for general governor disassembly procedure.

2. Remove the two bolts and lock washers securing the spring housing to the governor
housing. Withdraw the spring housing and gasket. Discard the gasket. See Figure 2-153
and see Figure 2-154.
1. Governor Housing 12. Idle-Speed Jam Nut

2. Spring Cap 13. Seal Ring
3. High-Speed Spring 14. Spring Housing
4. Idle Spring (Inner) 15. Idle-Speed Adjusting Screw
5. Idle Spring (Outer) 16. Idle-Speed Plunger
6. Gasket 17. Air Cap
7. Spring Retainer 18. Pin
8. Retainer Ring 19. High-Speed Jam Nut
9. Seal Ring 20. High-Speed Plunger
10. Piston 21. Retainer Locknut
11. Air Cylinder
Figure 2-153 Air Operated Limiting Speed Governor (Variable Low Speed)

Figure 2-154 Limiting Speed Governor (Variable Low Speed) Optional

Combination Air Controls
3. Loosen the 5/16 in.-24 idle speed jam nut, and remove the idle speed adjusting screw, seal
ring, and nut as an assembly. Discard the seal ring.
4. Hold the 1/2 in.-20 jam nut on the high-speed spring plunger with a wrench, and unscrew
the air cylinder cap, retainer ring, pin, piston, air cylinder, and seal ring as an assembly
from the end of the high-speed spring plunger.
5. Disengage the retainer ring from the air cylinder, and remove the air cap and piston from
the air cylinder.
6. Remove the seal ring from the piston. Discard the seal ring.
7. Unscrew the high-speed spring retainer locknut.
8. Remove the high-speed spring retainer, plunger, spring, and the low-speed spring plunger,
inner and outer springs, and low-speed spring cap as an assembly from the governor
housing. Discard the gasket.

9. Remove the high-speed spring retainer and spacer assembly and spring from the
high-speed spring plunger.
10. Remove the low-speed spring cap from the opposite end of the high-speed spring plunger.
11. Remove the low-speed spring plunger along with the inner and outer low-speed springs.
2.25.5.1 Cleaning of Variable-Speed Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor
Clean the governor as follows:
FIRE
vapors:
1. Wash all parts in clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
2.25.5.2 Inspection of Variable Speed Limiting Speed Mechanical

Governor
General inspection procedures for mechanical governors are detailed elsewhere. Refer to section
2.24.12.2 for proper inspection procedures.

2.25.6 Assembly of Cable Operated Governor
Refer to section 2.24.13 for general governor assembly procedure. Assemble the cable operated
NOTE:
During assembly, lubricate all spring housing components and needle bearing
assemblies with MIL. G3278A, Aero Shell 7A grease, or equivalent (special grease
for high and low temperature operations).

1. Thread the spring retainer locknut on the high-speed spring retainer approximately
1-1/2 in. See Figure 2-155.
1. Low-Speed Spring Cap 11. Speed Adjusting Handle

2. Low-Speed Spring (Outer) 12. Spring Housing
3. Low-Speed Spring (Inner) 13. Adjusting Shaft Retainer
4. High-Speed Spring 14. Adjusting Locknut
5. Governor Housing 15. High-Speed Spring Plunger
6. Adjusting Shaft 16. High-Speed Spring Retainer
9. Flexible Shaft 19. Low-Speed Spring Plunger

2. Place the high-speed spring on the high-speed spring plunger.

4. Insert the low-speed spring plunger into the high-speed spring plunger.
5. Place the inner and outer springs in the lower end of the high-speed spring plunger, over
the low-speed spring plunger.
6. Install the low-speed spring cap over the end of the inner low-speed spring and into the
end of the high-speed spring plunger.
7. Install the assembly in the governor housing.
NOTE:
Place a new housing gasket in position before installing the assembly.
8. Thread the idle speed adjusting locknut on the threaded end of the high-speed spring
plunger approximately 1/2 in.
9. Screw the adjusting shaft into the adjusting shaft retainer.
10. Install the adjusting retainer and shaft onto the high-speed spring plunger. Turn down the
adjusting retainer against the idle speed adjusting locknut.
11. Install the adjusting coupling and spring housing after the governor adjustments have
been performed. Refer to section 12.7.5.
2.25.7 Assembly of Air Operated Governor
Refer to section 2.24.13 for general governor assembly procedure. Assemble the air operated
NOTE:
During assembly, lubricate all spring housing components and needle bearing
assemblies with MIL. G3278A, Aero Shell 7A grease, or equivalent (special grease
for high and low temperature operations).
1. Thread the spring retainer locknut on the high-speed spring retainer approximately
1-1/2 in. See Figure 2-156 and see Figure 2-157.

1. Governor Housing 12. Idle Speed Jam Nut

3. High-Speed Spring 14. Spring Housing
4. Idle Spring (Inner) 15. Idle-Speed Adjusting Screw
5. Idle Spring (Outer) 16. Idle-Speed Plunger
8. Retainer Ring 19. High-Speed Jam Nut
9. Seal Ring 20. High-Speed Plunger
11. Air Cylinder
Figure 2-156 Air Operated Limiting Speed Governor (Variable Low Speed)

Figure 2-157 Limiting Speed Governor (Variable Low Speed) Optional

Combination Air Controls
2. Place the high-speed spring on the high-speed spring plunger.

4. Insert the low-speed spring plunger into the high-speed spring plunger.
5. Place the inner and outer springs in the lower end of the high-speed spring plunger over
the low-speed spring plunger.
6. Install the low-speed spring cap over the end of the inner low-speed spring and into the
end of the high-speed spring plunger.
7. Install the assembly in the governor housing.
NOTE:
Place the new spring housing gasket in position before installing the assembly.

8. Thread the 1/2 in.-20 high-speed spring jam nut on the threaded end of the plunger
approximately 1/2 in.
9. Place a new seal ring on the piston and assemble the piston and air cap in the air cylinder.
Secure them in the air cylinder with the retainer ring.
10. Screw the air cylinder assembly on the high-speed spring plunger and against the
high-speed spring plunger and jam nut.
11. Place a new seal ring on the idle speed adjusting screw. Install the adjusting screw and
jam nut in the air cylinder.
12. Install the spring housing after the governor adjustments have been performed.
2.25.8 Installation of Cable Operated Governor
Install the cable operated governor as follows:

1. Refer to section 2.24.21 for general installation procedures.
2. Connect the manual control flexible shaft to the governor spring housing.
3. Adjust the governor. Refer to section 12.4.
2.25.9 Installation of Air Operated Governor
Install the air operated governor as follows:

1. Refer to section 2.24.21 for general installation procedures.
2. Connect the air controls to the governor spring housing.
3. Adjust the governor. Refer to section 12.4.

2.26 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR (VARIABLE HIGH SPEED)
The air operated limiting speed mechanical governor (variable high speed) is used for highway
vehicle applications where the same engine powers both the vehicle and auxiliary equipment, for
unloading bulk products (such as cement, grain or liquids) and where a variable speed range is
desired during auxiliary constant speed operation.
The idle speed range for these governors is the same as for the standard limiting speed governors.
The normal no-load speed range is the same as for the standard limiting speed governor. A
variable high-speed limiting speed governor will control engine RPM. from any normal no-load
speed down to near idle speed. In addition to the high-speed control kit, a regulated air supply and
an air cylinder to move the throttle to the wide open throttle position is required.

(Variable High-Speed)

See Figure 2-158.


Mechanical Governor (Variable High-Speed)
2.26.2 Removal of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (Variable

High-Speed)
To remove the governor, refer to section 2.24.2.

Remove the control housing as follows:

1. Remove the air cylinder on the governor cover.
2. Remove the two copper washers and two 5/16 in.-18 x 4 1/2 in. bolts. Remove the gaskets
and flat or tamper-resistant cover.
3. Remove the idle screw self-locking nut.
4. Remove the housing and piston assembly from the spring retainer and idle speed screw.
2.26.3 Disassembly of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (Variable

High-Speed)
Refer to section 2.24.6 for disassembly procedure.

Disassemble the high-speed control housing as follows:
1. Remove the piston from the housing.
2. Remove the small ring in the spring housing and the large seal ring on the piston.
2.26.3.1 Cleaning of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (Variable

High-Speed)
FIRE
vapors:
1. Wash the parts in clean fuel oil.

EYE INJURY
2.26.3.2 Inspection of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor

Inspect the governor as follows:

Refer to section 2.24.12.2 for inspection procedures.
2.26.4 Assembly of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor

Refer to section 2.24.13 for assembly procedures.

Assemble the high-speed control housing as follows:
1. Install the small ring in the spring housing and the large seal ring on the piston.
FIRE
vapors:
2. Lubricate the piston and inside of the housing with engine oil.
3. Install the piston in the housing.

2.26.5 Installation of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor

Install the governor as follows:

Refer to section 2.24.21 for governor installation instructions.

See Figure 2-159. Without disturbing the engine tune-up, install a high-speed control housing
assembly on a standard limiting speed governor having a long spring pack as follows:
1. Adjusting Pin 7. Cover

2. Idle Screw 8. Bolt
3. Air Hole 9. Copper Washer
4. Seal Ring 10. Locknut
5. Piston 11. Spring Housing
6. Gasket 12. Locknut
Figure 2-159 Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor Components (Air Operated

Variable High Speed)
1. Loosen the two bolts and copper washers, and remove the spring retainer housing.

2. Remove the idle speed adjustment screw, and replace it with the longer high-speed control
idle speed screw. Reset the idle speed RPM to the previous setting.
NOTE:
If the governor has the former one piece idle speed screw, replace it with the current
idle speed pin and long screw.
3. Refer to section 12.1 for the engine tune-up procedure for the high-speed control governor.
Use the longer idle speed screw to perform the adjustment.
4. Slide the housing and piston assembly over the spring retainer and idle speed screw.
5. Install the idle screw self-locking nut, and make the following adjustments:
[a] Place a 0.010 in. feeler gage between the VHS housing gasket and the main governor
housing.
[b] Using tool J 28598-B, adjust the elastic stop nut, while holding the idle screw
stationary, until a slight drag is felt on the shim. See Figure 2-160.
1. VHS Housing 3. Idle Speed Screw

2. Elastic Stop Nut
Figure 2-160 Adjust Elastic Stop Nut using Tool J 28598-B
[c] Remove the shim.

6. Install the gasket and either flat or tamper-resistant cover with two copper washers and
two 5/16 in.-18 x 4 1/2 in. bolts (flat cover). Tighten the bolts.

PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
NOTICE:
Before starting an engine after an engine speed control
adjustment or after engine governor cover and lever assembly
removal, determine if the injector racks move to the no fuel
position when the governor stop lever is placed in the stop
position. Engine overspeed will result if the injector racks cannot
be positioned at no fuel with the governor stop lever.
7. Install the air cylinder on the governor cover so that it does not interfere with the throttle
linkage when no air pressure is applied. When full air pressure is applied, the speed
control lever should be wide open. See Figure 2-161.
NOTE:
Supply air should only be taken from the accessory air supply. At no time should supply
air be taken from the service brake system. All air supply components however, should

be plumbed and mounted in compliance with the recommendations for the air brake
system. Both air cylinders must be vented to ensure rapid disengagement.
1. Air Supply 4. VHS Housing

2. Throttle Lock Air Cylinder 5. Regulator
3. Governor 6. On/Off Valve
Figure 2-161 Schematic Drawing of Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor

(Variable High Speed)

2.27 VARIABLE SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR
The variable speed mechanical governor performs the following three functions:
1. It controls the engine idle speed.
2. It limits the maximum no-load speed.
3. It holds the engine at any constant speed, between idle and maximum, desired by the
operator. See Figure 2-162 and see Figure 2-163.

1. Governor Housing 13. Speed Control Lever Shaft

2. Flat Washers 14. Variable Speed Spring Housing
3. Needle Bearings 15. Gasket
4. Control Link Lever Shaft 16. Variable Speed Spring
5. Operating Lever Connecting Link 17. Plunger Guide
6. Control Link Operating Lever 18. Variable Speed Spring Plunger
7. Governor Stops 19. Gap Adjusting Screw
8. Spring Retainer 20. Differential Lever
9. Governor Shims 21. Connecting Link
10. Spring Lever 22. Buffer Screw
11. Idle Speed Adjusting Screw 23. Connecting Pin
12. Speed Control Lever 24. Control Link Operating Lever Assembly
Figure 2-162 Cross Section of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor (1 of 2)

25. Carrier and Weight Assembly (Non-Turbocharged) 36. Spacer

26. Weight 37. Operating Shaft Lower Bearing
27. Carrier and Weight Assembly (Turbocharged) 38. Expansion Plug
28. Differential Lever 39. Riser
29. Plain Washer 40. Riser Thrust Bearing
30. Spring Retainer 41. Fork
31. Stop Lever 42. Lock Washer
32. Operating Shaft Lever 43. Housing Plug
33. Operating Shaft Retaining Screw 44. Bearing Retaining Bolt
34. Operating Shaft Upper Bearing 45. Gasket
35. Operating Shaft 46. Weight Shaft Bearing
Figure 2-163 Cross Section of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor (2 of 2)
The nameplate attached to the governor housing identifies the mechanical engine governor. The
letters "S.W.-V.S." stamped on the nameplate denote a single-weight variable speed governor.

On 6V and 8V engines, the governor is mounted on the front end of the blower. On 12V and 16V
engines, the governor is mounted on the front end of the rear blower and the governor auxiliary
drive housing is mounted on the rear end of the front blower. The governors are driven by a
blower rotor. The governor assembly consists of three subassemblies.
1. Control Housing Cover
2. Variable Speed Spring Housing and Shaft
3. Control and Weight HousingFor 12V and 16V turbocharged engines, the governor has
three weights and a heavier variable speed spring. See Figure 2-164.
1. Cover Assembly 4. Seal Ring

2. Retaining Washers 5. Bushing
3. Snap Ring 6. Stop Lever Shaft Assembly
Figure 2-164 Cross Section of Governor Cover Assembly
To provide additional design features, a new die cast governor cover with serrated shafts
and three bosses is now being used. One boss is drilled for the variable speed governor
shutdown (run/stop) shaft.
NOTE:
If a customer furnished mounting bracket is attached to the new cover, it may be
necessary to rework the old bracket to clear the unused cast bosses (two for variable
speed governors).

The die cast governor cover assemblies include a 1/2 in. diameter serrated shutdown
shaft for variable speed governors. This assures positive clamping between the serrated
levers and the shafts to prevent any slippage.
Four serrations are eliminated on the shutdown shafts to permit customers to design a
mating lever with missing serrations, that will provide a fixed position for particular
requirements. Levers are not provided with missing serrations.
To reduce governor speed control lever shaft assembly stop pin wear and prolong bushing
and O-ring seal life, a yieldable speed control lever is available. This yieldable speed
control lever cannot be used with the former stamped cover assemblies. A service
yieldable speed control lever is available for use with the stamped cover.
The former and new cover and shaft assemblies are interchangeable on a governor.
NOTE:
When only a former cover needs replacing, replace the cover and shaft assembly. Only
the new cover is serviced separately. The former control shafts and levers will continue
to be serviced for the former governors.
Two manual controls are provided on the variable speed governor, a governor stop lever,
and a speed control lever. For starting, the governor stop lever is moved to the RUN
position. This moves the injector control racks to the FULL-FUEL position. Upon
starting, the governor moves the injector racks out to the position required for idling. The
manual speed control lever controls the engine speed.
The centrifugal force of the revolving governor weights is converted into linear motion,
which is transmitted through the riser and operating shaft to the operating shaft lever. One
end of the operating shaft lever bears against the variable speed spring plunger, while the
other end provides a changing fulcrum on which the differential lever pivots.
The centrifugal force of the governor weights is opposed by the variable speed spring.
Load changes or movement of the speed control lever create an unbalanced force between
the revolving governor weights and tension on the variable speed spring. When the two
forces are equal, the engine speed stabilizes for a setting of the speed control lever.
The differential lever through the operating lever connecting link operates the fuel rods
connected to the injector control tube levers and the control link operating lever assembly.
This arrangement provides a means for the governor to change the fuel settings of the
injector rack control levers.
The centrifugal force required to balance out the tension on the variable speed spring in
the low-speed range determines the engine idle speed.
Changing the tension on the variable speed spring by means of the idle speed adjusting
screw adjusts the engine idle speed. Refer to section 12.4.18 6V and 8V, or refer to section
12.5.5 12V and 16V.
Installing or removing stops and shims to vary the tension on the variable speed
spring adjusts the maximum no-load speed. Refer to section 12.4.16 for 6V and 8V or
refer to section 12.5.6 12V and 16V for the maximum no-load speed adjustment.

A spray of lubricating oil from the blower end plate lubricates the governor. The governor
weights distribute this oil to all parts of the governor assembly requiring lubrication.
Oil returning from the governor is directed through passages in the blower end plate
and cylinder block to the engine oil pan.
2.27.1 Repair or Replacement of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor
2-165.

Figure 2-165 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Variable Speed

Mechanical Governor
2.27.2 Removal of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor (6V and 8V

Engines)
Remove the governor as follows:

1. Open the drain cocks, and drain the engine cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.3.
2. Remove any accessories attached to the cylinder head, governor, or front end of the engine
that interfere with the removal of the governor assembly.
3. Disconnect the control linkage from the speed control and stop levers. See Figure 2-166.
1. Fuel Rod Cover 5. Blower

2. Governor 6. Booster Spring
3. Fuel Pump 7. Booster Spring Bracket
4. Stop Lever 8. Speed Control Lever
Figure 2-166 Variable Speed Governor Mounting (6V and 8V Engines)
4. Remove the end of the stop lever return spring from behind the head of the special
governor cover attaching screw.

Remove the fuel rods from the control link operating lever assembly and the injector control
tube levers as follows:
1. Remove the valve rocker covers from the cylinder heads.
2. Remove the screw type pin, in the control link operating lever, and the clevis pin in the
control tube lever. Withdraw the fuel rod from the governor.
3. Remove the clevis pin in the control tube lever to remove the left-bank fuel rod.
4. Lift the connecting pin out of the control link operating lever approximately three-quarters
of an inch.
5. Withdraw the fuel rod from the governor.
Continue governor removal as follows:
1. Loosen the hose clamps at each end of the water bypass tube. Slide the hoses and clamps
onto the bypass tube, and remove the tube from the engine.
2. Disconnect and remove the fuel oil lines attached to the fuel pump and the crossover
fuel oil line attached to each cylinder head.
3. Loosen the outer booster spring adjusting nut, and remove the booster spring from the
speed control lever.
4. Loosen the hose clamps on the fuel rod cover tube hoses next to each cylinder head, and
slide each hose and clamp up on the tube in the governor housing.
5. Note the location of the two copper, one plain, and eight lock washers on the governor to
blower bolts before removing them. Remove the ten bolts and washers (two inside and
eight outside) securing the governor and fuel pump assembly to the blower.
6. Tap the sides of the governor housing slightly with a plastic hammer to loosen the
governor from the blower.
7. Pull the governor and fuel pump assembly straight out from the dowels in the blower end
plate. Remove the governor to blower gasket.
NOTE:
The fuel pump drive coupling fork may stay on either the fuel pump or the blower rotor
shaft.
8. Remove the drive coupling fork.

9. Remove the three bolt and seal assemblies securing the fuel pump assembly to the
governor housing. Remove the fuel pump and gasket from the governor housing.
2.27.3 Removal of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor (12V and 16V

Engines)

1. Disconnect the linkage attached to the governor speed control and stop levers. See Figure
2-167.
1. Blower Assembly 7. Air Shutdown Housing Adaptor

2. Air Shutdown Assembly 8. Booster Spring Bracket
3. Governor Assembly 9. Booster Spring
4. Auxiliary Control Line Housing 10. Speed Control Lever
5. Air Inlet Housing 11. Fuel Rod Cover
6. Stop Lever 12. Fuel Pump
Figure 2-167 Variable Speed Governor Mounting (12V and 16V Engines)
2. On non-turbocharged engines, disconnect the air inlet tube attached to the air shutdown
housing on each blower.
3. On turbocharged engines, disconnect the tube from the turbocharger and the air shutdown
housing on the rear blower.

4. On marine engines, remove the air silencers from both air shutdown housings.
5. On non-turbocharged engines, remove the air shutdown housings and the air shutdown
adaptor from the rear blower.
6. On turbocharged engines, disconnect the shutdown rod from the lever on the rear air
shutdown housing. Remove the two air shutdown housings, with attaching rod, as a unit
from the adaptors or the blowers.
7. Cover the top of the blower with masking tape to prevent the entry of foreign material.
8. Remove the rear cylinder head rocker covers.
9. Remove the end of the stop lever return spring from behind the head of the special
governor cover attaching screw.
11. Remove the governor auxiliary control link housing cover screws and lock washers.
Remove the cover and gasket from the housing.
Disconnect the fuel rods from the control link operating lever and the injector control tube levers
as follows:
1. Remove the screw type pin in the control link operating lever and the pin in the control
tube lever. Withdraw the fuel rod through the top of the governor housing.
2. Remove the connecting pin from the control link operating lever and the pin in the control
tube lever. Withdraw the fuel rod out through the top of the governor housing.
1. Lift or pry each end of the connecting link off of the ball joint studs. Remove the
connecting link from the governor housing.
2. Loosen the fuel rod cover hose clamp at each side of the governor housing. Slide each
hose against the governor housing. Tighten each clamp to retain it on the hose.
3. Loosen the hose clamp between the governor housing and the auxiliary control link
housing. Slide the hose forward against the auxiliary control link housing. Tighten the
clamp to retain it on the hose.
4. Disconnect the fuel pump inlet and outlet tubes or hoses from the fuel pump. Remove
the fuel pump from the governor housing.
5. Loosen the outer booster spring adjusting nut, and remove the booster spring from the
speed control lever. Remove the booster spring bracket from the cylinder head.
6. Disconnect the blower drive support oil tube from the fitting in the blower drive support.
7. Loosen the two bolts securing the oil tube seal ring retaining plate to the blower end plate,
and push the oil tube into the end plate.
8. Remove the six bolts and lock washers securing the flywheel housing hole cover at the
blower drive support, and remove the cover and gasket.

2.27.4 Removal of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor (Engine

On an engine equipped with a rear mounted battery-charging alternator, loosen and remove the
alternator drive belt.
1. Remove the alternator drive pulley nut and pulley from the alternator drive shaft.
2. Remove the bolts and lock washers securing the alternator drive assembly to the flywheel
housing, and remove the drive assembly, gasket and drive coupling from the flywheel
housing.
2.27.5 Removal of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor Continued (12V

and 16V Engines)

1. On an engine equipped with a hydraulic oil pump, remove the six bolts and lock washers
securing the oil pump to the flywheel housing and adaptor.
2. Remove the oil pump, adaptor and gaskets from the flywheel housing. Remove the drive
coupling and the drive coupling hub from the blower drive shaft.
3. Remove the blower drive shaft retaining snap ring from the blower drive coupling, and
remove the blower drive shaft from the blower drive hub and the blower drive support.
4. Loosen the blower drive support-to-blower hose (seal) clamps. Push the hose (seal) back
on the blower drive support.
5. Remove the bolt and washer through the top of each blower end plate securing the blower
to the cylinder block.
6. Remove the bolts and retaining washers on each side of the blower securing the blower to
the cylinder block.
8. Lift the blower assembly, and move it forward to detach the blower from the hose (seal).
9. Lift the blower away from the engine, and place it on a bench.
10. Remove the blower to cylinder block gasket.
11. Remove the ten bolts, lock washers, plain washer, and copper washers securing the
governor assembly to the blower end plate.
12. Slide the governor assembly forward off of the dowel pins in the end plate, and remove
the governor to blower end plate gasket.
2.27.5.1 Cleaning of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor
Wash and inspect the governor prior to disassembly as follows:

FIRE
vapors:
1. Before removing any parts from the governor, wash the entire unit in clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY

3. Inspect for worn or damaged parts that may be repaired or replaced without complete
disassembly.

2.27.6 Disassembly of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor
See Figure 2-168, and disassemble the governor cover as follows:
1. Cover Assembly 4. Seal Ring

2. Retaining Washers 5. Bushing
3. Snap Ring 6. Stop Lever Shaft Assembly
Figure 2-168 Cross Section of Governor Cover Assembly
1. Clamp the cover assembly in a soft-jawed vise.

2. Loosen the stop lever retaining bolt, and pull the lever from the shaft. Remove the return
spring from the shaft.
3. Remove the snap ring from the groove in the stop lever shaft, and remove the two seal ring
retaining washers.
4. Pull the stop lever shaft out of the cover, and remove the seal ring (on top of the bushing)
from the cover.
5. At this stage of disassembly, wash the cover assembly (containing the bushing) thoroughly
in clean fuel oil, and inspect the bushing for wear and damage.
6. If the bushing is satisfactory for further use, removal is unnecessary.
7. If bushing removal is necessary, support the inner face of the cover over the opening in
the arbor press bed.

8. Place the remover J 21967-01 on top of the stop shaft bushing, and press the bushing out
of the cover. See Figure 2-169.
1. Governor Cover
Figure 2-169 Removing Stop Lever Shaft Bushing From the Governor Cover
using J 21967-01
Remove the variable speed spring, spring plunger, and spring housing assembly from the
governor housing as follows:
1. Clamp the flange of the governor housing in a soft-jawed vise.
2. Remove the two bolts and lock washers securing the variable speed spring housing to the
governor housing.
3. Withdraw the spring housing, spring retainer, shims, split stop and spring from the
governor housing as an assembly.
4. Remove the spring housing gasket.
5. Remove the variable speed spring, split stop, shims, and spring retainer from the spring
housing.
6. Remove the spring plunger from the plunger guide.
7. Remove the spring retainer solid stop from the governor housing.
8. If necessary, remove the variable speed spring plunger guide from the governor housing
with a small brass rod and hammer.
Disassemble the variable speed spring housing as follows:

1. Loosen the bolt securing the speed control lever to the speed control shaft, and pull the
lever from the shaft.
2. Remove the Woodruff key and flat washer from the speed control shaft.
3. Remove the pipe plug in the top of the variable speed spring housing. Remove the
variable speed spring lever set screw from the speed control shaft and spring lever.
See Figure 2-170.
1. Plain Washer 5. Set Screw

2. Seal Ring 6. Cup Plug
3. Key 7. Spring Lever
4. Speed Control Shaft
Figure 2-170 Cross Section of Governor Variable Speed Spring Housing

4. Place a 3/4 in. inside diameter sleeve approximately 1-1/2 in. long on the arbor press bed.
Support the spring housing assembly on top of the sleeve with the cup plug, if used, in the
side of the housing over the sleeve opening.
5. Place a small brass rod on the shaft end. See Figure 2-171. Press the plug, if used, and
bearing out of the spring housing.
1. Spring Housing 3. Brass Rod

2. Control Shaft 4. Sleeve
Figure 2-171 Removing Speed Control Shaft, Bearing and Cup Plug from
Variable Speed Spring Housing
6. Remove the spring lever from the spring housing and the bearing from the speed control
shaft. Discard the bearing. If necessary, remove the Woodruff key from the shaft.

NOTICE:
Do not reuse the needle bearing. The inner end of the needle
bearing is damaged when pressed out of the spring housing.
FIRE
vapors:
7. Wash the spring housing, containing the remaining bearing, thoroughly in clean fuel oil.
8. Inspect the needle bearing for wear and damage.
[a] If worn or damaged, continue disassembly.
[b] If the bearing is satisfactory for further use, bearing removal is unnecessary.
9. If needle bearing removal is necessary, support the spring housing, bearing side down, on
top of the 3/4 in. inside diameter sleeve on the arbor press bed.
10. Insert the bearing remover J 21967-01 through the housing, and rest it on top of the
bearing. Press the bearing out of the housing.
Remove the governor weight and shaft assembly from the governor housing as follows:
2. Remove the governor weight housing plug and gasket.
3. Bend the tang on the lock washer away from the bolt head. While keeping the weight
carrier from turning, remove the bearing retaining belt, flat washer, and lock washer.
4. Thread a 5/16 in.-24 x 3 in. bolt into the bearing retaining bolt hole.

5. Support the governor housing on the arbor press bed, and press the governor weight
shaft from the bearing. See Figure 2-172.
1. Bearing 3. Governor Weight Shaft

2. Bolt 5/16 in.-24
Figure 2-172 Removing Governor Weight Shaft Assembly from Governor

Housing
6. Slide the governor riser thrust bearing and riser from the weight shaft.
NOTE:
The thrust bearing is specially designed to absorb thrust load. Looseness between the
mating parts does not indicate excessive wear.
7. Remove the weight shaft bearing from the governor housing. If necessary, use a small
brass rod and hammer and tap the bearing out of the housing.

See Figure 2-173. Remove the governor weights from the carrier and shaft assembly on
non-turbocharged engines as follows:
1. Weight Carrier 3. Governor Weight

2. Weight Pin Snap Ring 4. Weight Pin
Figure 2-173 Cross Section of Governor Weight Assembly (Non-Turbocharged

Engines)
1. Matchmark the weights and carriers with paint or a center punch for identification.
2. Remove the retaining rings from the weight pins.
3. Drive the pins out of the carrier and the weights by tapping on the grooved end of the pins.
Remove the governor weights.

See Figure 2-174. Disassemble the governor weights and shaft assembly as follows:
1. Needle Bearings 4. Lock Ring

2. Weight Carrier 5. Flat Washers
3. Governor Weight 6. Weight Pin
Figure 2-174 Cross Section of Governor Weight Assemblies(Turbocharged

Engines)

1. If weight carrier assembly removal from the shaft is necessary, support the shaft, weight
carrier, and sleeve on the arbor press bed. See Figure 2-175. Press the shaft out of the
weight carrier assembly.
1. Weight Carrier Assembly 3. Sleeve

2. Shaft
Figure 2-175 Removing Governor Weight Shaft from Weight Carrier Assembly
2. Remove the lock ring from the weight pin with a pair of snap ring pliers.
3. Remove the weight pin, flat washers, and weight assembly from the weight carrier.
4. Remove the second weight from the carrier.

FIRE
vapors:
5. At this stage of disassembly, wash the weights (containing the needle bearing) thoroughly
in clean fuel oil, and inspect the bearings for wear and damage.
[a] If the bearings are worn or damaged, continue disassembly.
[b] If the bearings are satisfactory for further use, bearing removal is unnecessary.
6. If needle bearing removal is necessary, support the weight on a 5/8 in. inside diameter
sleeve on the arbor press bed. See Figure 2-176.
1. Sleeve 2. Weight
Figure 2-176 Removing Governor Weight Bearings using Tool J 8985

7. Place the bearing remover J 8985 on top of the bearing, and press both bearings out of
the weight.
8. Remove the needle bearings from the second weight.
Remove the governor linkage and operating shaft from the governor housing as follows:
1. Remove the spring retainer and plain washer securing the connecting link to the
differential lever. Remove the connecting link.
2. Remove the spring retainer and plain washer securing the differential lever to the operating
shaft lever. Remove the differential lever.
3. Remove the screw, lock washer, and lock plate securing the control link operating lever
shaft in the housing.
NOTE:
Do not lose the two flat washers located between the top and bottom of the lever
assembly and the governor housing.
4. Lift the shaft out of the housing, and remove the operating lever and two flat washers at
each side of the operating lever.
5. Remove the expansion plug from the bottom of the governor housing.
6. Remove the operating shaft upper bearing retaining screw, lock washer, and flat washer
securing the bearing in the governor housing.

7. Support the governor housing, bottom side up, on the arbor press bed with the two dowel
pins in the top of the housing between the two steel supports. See Figure 2-177.
1. Lower Bearing 4. Arbor Press
Figure 2-177 Removing Operating Shaft from Operating Shaft Lower Bearing
8. Place a small brass rod on the end of the operating shaft. Press the shaft out of the bearing.

9. Place a 9/16 in. open end wrench under the operating fork. See Figure 2-178.
1. 9/16 in. Wrench 3. Operating Shaft

2. Operating Fork 4. Brass Rod
Figure 2-178 Removing Operating Fork, Operating Shaft and Lever Assembly
from Governor Housing
10. Place a brass rod on the end of the shaft, and press the fork off the operating shaft. Remove
the shaft, operating lever, and bearing from the housing as an assembly.
11. Remove the operating shaft lower bearing from the bottom of the governor housing.
12. Slide the governor operating shaft spacer from the shaft.
13. Place a short 9/16 in. inside diameter sleeve over the end of the operating shaft, and rest
it against the bearing inner race on the current operating shaft, or the flat washer under
the bearing on the former operating shaft.

14. Support the operating shaft, lever, bearing, and sleeve on a large washer or plate with a 5/8
in. hole on the arbor press bed. See Figure 2-179.
1. Operating Shaft 4. Bearing

3. Brass Rod
Figure 2-179 Removing Operating Lever and Upper Bearing from Operating
Shaft
NOTICE:
Catch the shaft by hand when pressed from the lever and bearing
to prevent part damage.
NOTICE:
Ensure bearing inner race is resting on the sleeve. If it is not, the
bearing could be damaged.
15. Place a small brass rod on the end of the shaft, and press the operating shaft out of the
operating lever and bearing.

FIRE
vapors:
16. At this stage of disassembly, wash the control link operating lever (containing the
bearings) thoroughly in clean fuel oil, and inspect the needle bearings for wear or damage.
[a] If worn or damaged, continue disassembly.
[b] If the bearings are satisfactory for further use, bearing removal is unnecessary.
17. If needle bearing removal is necessary, support the control link operating lever on a sleeve,
and rest the sleeve on the arbor press bed.

18. Place tool J 8985 on top of the bearing, and press both bearings out of the lever.
See Figure 2-180.
Figure 2-180 Remove Operating Lever Needle Bearings using Tool J 8985
19. Remove the buffer screw from the governor housing.
2.27.6.1 Cleaning of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor
Prior to inspection, clean all parts as follows:

FIRE
vapors:
1. Wash all parts in clean fuel oil
EYE INJURY
2.27.7 Inspection of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor
Inspect the variable speed mechanical governor as follows:

1. Visually inspect the bearings for corrosion or pitting.
[a] If excessively corroded or pitted, replace the bearings. Refer to section 2.27.8.
USED ENGINE OIL

2. Lubricate each bearing with light engine oil. While keeping the bearing inner race from
turning, revolve the outer race slowly by hand and check for rough spots.
[a] If rough spots are evident, replace the bearings. Refer to section 2.27.8.


3. Visually inspect the riser thrust bearing for excessive wear, flat spots, damage, or corrosion.
[a] If it is worn, damaged, corroded, or has flat spots, replace the riser thrust bearing.
[b] If not worn, damaged, or corroded, continue inspection.
4. Visually inspect the weight carrier pins and needle bearings in the weights for wear.
[a] If worn, replace the weight carrier pins and needle bearings. Refer to section 2.27.9.
5. Visually inspect the governor weight at the riser contact area for excessive wear.
[a] If excessively worn, install a new governor weight. Refer to section 2.27.11.
[b] If not excessively worn, proceed with the inspection.
6. Visually inspect the control link operating lever shaft and needle bearings for wear and
damage.
[a] If worn or damaged, replace the control link operating lever shaft and needle
bearings. Refer to section 2.27.8.
7. Visually inspect the stop lever shaft and bushing in the governor cover for wear.
NOTE:
The stop lever shaft bushing is not serviced. When bushing replacement becomes
necessary, it must be replaced with two needle bearings.
[a] If worn, replace the stop lever shaft and bushing with two needle bearings.
[b] If not worn, proceed with the inspection.
8. Visually inspect the speed control lever shaft and needle bearings in the variable speed
spring housing for wear.
[a] If worn, replace the speed control lever shaft and needle bearings. Refer to section
2.27.8.
9. Visually inspect the variable speed spring lever roller and pin for excessive wear.
NOTE:
The roller type bearing rides on a hardened bearing pin which is press fit in the spring
lever and is staked at three places on both sides.
[a] If worn, replace the variable speed spring lever roller and pin. Refer to section 2.27.8.

10. Visually inspect the variable speed spring plunger, guide, and spring retainer for wear
or score marks.
[a] If the retainer or plunger is slightly scored or worn, clean them up with crocus cloth.
[b] Replace the retainer, plunger and guide if excessively scored or worn. Refer to section
2.27.8.
11. Visually inspect the adjusting screw, locknut, pins, seal rings and any other parts in the
governor housing for wear or defects that might affect governor operation.
[a] Replace all worn or damaged parts. Refer to section 2.27.8.
[b] If not worn or damaged, reuse the parts.
2.27.8 Assembly of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor
See Figure 2-181 and see Figure 2-182 for the location of the various parts. Assemble the

1. Fuel Rack Linkage Outlet 16. Carrier Weight Bearing

2. Buffer Screw 17. Housing Plug Gasket
3. Gasket 18. Special Lock Washer
4. Carrier Weight Shaft 19. Flat Washer
5. Weight Bearing 20. Plug
6. Governor Weight 21. Bearing Retainer Bolt
7. Weight Pin 22. Operating Shaft Bearing
8. Flat Washer 23. Expansion Ring
9. Snap Ring 24. Bolt
10. Governor Weight 25. Lock Washer
11. Carrier Weight Shaft 26. Buffer Screw Locknut
12. Governor Weight Carrier 27. Riser Thrust Bearing
13. Weight Pin Retainer 28. Governor Riser

14. Weight Pin 29. Governor Weight Carrier

15. Governor Housing
Figure 2-181 Variable Speed Governor (1 of 2)
30. Operating Lever Connecting Link 49. Operating Shaft Lever

31. Stop Lever Shaft Pin 50. Locknut
32. Gasket 51. Gap Adjusting Screw
33. Governor Cover 52. Operating Shaft Upper Bearing
34. Lock Washer 53. Plain Washer
35. Cover Bolt 54. Governor Operating Shaft
36. Housing Cover Special Screw 55. Operating Shaft Fork
37. Governor Stop Lever 56. Control Link Lever Shaft
38. Lock Washer 57. Plain Washer
39. Stop Lever Bolt 58. Operating Lever Bearing

40. Shaft Return Spring 59. Control Link Operating Lever

41. Snap Ring 60. Fuel Rod Connecting Pin
42. Seal Ring Retainer Washers 61. Plain Washer
43. Shaft Seal Ring 62. Lock Clip Screw
44. Shaft Lever Pin 63. Bearing Retainer Screw
45. Differential Lever 64. Lock Washer
46. Differential Washer 65. Flat Washer
47. Spring Retainer 66. Fuel Rod Connecting Pin (Short)
48. Differential Lever Pin 67. Operating Lever Shaft Lock Clip
Figure 2-182 Variable Speed Governor (2 of 2)
Install the operating shaft and governor linkage in the governor housing as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lubricate the inside diameter of the governor operating shaft upper bearing with engine oil.
2. Support the bearing and operating shaft on a 9/16 in. inside diameter sleeve on the arbor
press bed, with the bearing inner race resting on the sleeve.
3. Start the bearing, numbered side up, straight on the large end of the operating shaft.
4. Press the shaft into the bearing until 1/4 in. of the shaft protrudes through it.
USED ENGINE OIL

5. Lubricate the inside diameter of the governor operating shaft lever with engine oil.
6. Start the lever, operating lever pivot pin face up, straight on the operating shaft with the
flat of the shaft registering with the flat surface in the lever.
NOTE:
The upper end of the shaft must be flush with the top surface of the lever.
7. Support the operating lever, bearing and shaft on the arbor press bed with a steel support
directly under the center of the lever.

8. Press the operating shaft through the bearing and lever until the end of the shaft contacts
the steel support.
9. Place the operating shaft spacer over the lower end of the shaft, and slide it against the
upper bearing inner race.
10. Insert the end of the governor operating shaft, bearing, spacer, and lever assembly through
the upper bearing bore in the governor housing.
USED ENGINE OIL

11. Lubricate the inside diameter of the governor operating shaft fork with engine oil.
12. Place the operating fork over the lower end of the shaft, with the finished cam surfaces on
the fork fingers facing the rear of the governor housing and the flat of the shaft registering
with the flat surface in the fork.
13. Support the governor housing and operating shaft assembly on the arbor press bed with
the upper end of the operating shaft resting on a steel support. See Figure 2-183.
1. Support 3. Fork
2. Sleeve 4. Shaft
Figure 2-183 Installing Governor Operating Shaft Fork on Shaft

14. Place a 7/16 in. inside diameter sleeve over the end of the shaft and against the fork.
Press the fork tight against the shaft spacer.
USED ENGINE OIL

15. Lubricate the governor operating shaft lower bearing with engine oil.
16. Start the bearing, numbered side up, straight in the governor housing and over the end of
the operating shaft.
17. Support the governor housing and operating shaft assembly on the arbor press bed with
the upper end of the operating shaft resting on a steel support.
18. Place a 7/16 in. inside diameter sleeve on the inner race of the bearing, and press the
bearing on the shaft until it seats on the housing shoulder.
19. Install the governor operating shaft upper bearing retaining flat washer, lock washer, and
screw in the governor housing.
20. Apply a thin coat of good quality sealant around the edge of a new expansion plug.
21. Place the plug, concave side up, in the opening of the housing next to the lower operating
shaft bearing. Tap the center of the plug with a hammer.
22. Place the differential lever over the pivot pin in the operating lever, with the pin in the
lever up, and secure with a plain washer and spring retainer.
23. If previously removed, install the governor gap adjusting screw and locknut in the tapped
hole in the operating shaft lever.
24. If removed, place the control link operating lever on the arbor press bed, with a steel
support under the bearing bore.
USED ENGINE OIL

25. Lubricate the outer surface of the bearing with engine oil, and start the bearing, numbered
end up, straight into the lever bore.
26. Insert the pilot end of installer J 8985 in the bearing, and press the bearing into the lever
until it is flush with the top surface of the lever.
27. Reverse the lever on the press, and install the second bearing.

28. Lubricate the control link operating lever needle bearings with Shell Alvania No. 2
grease, or equivalent.
29. Place the lever in position between the two bosses inside the governor housing. Insert a
flat washer on each side of the lever.
30. Install the control link operating lever shaft with the slot up.
31. Align the slot in the control link operating lever shaft with the lock clip screw hole in
the boss next to the shaft.
32. Install the lock clip, lock washer, and screw. Securely tighten the screw.
33. Place one end of the connecting link over the differential lever pin, and secure it with a
plain washer and spring retainer.
34. Place the opposite end of the connecting link on top of the control link operating lever,
and install the connecting pin.
35. If removed, thread the locknut on the buffer screw, and thread the buffer screw into the
governor housing.
2.27.9 Assembly of Governor Weights and Carrier and Shaft Assembly

(Non-Turbocharged Engines)
Assemble the governor weights and carrier and shaft assembly on non-turbocharged engines
as follows:
1. Position the weights on opposite sides of the weight carrier. Observe the matchmarks
placed on the weight carrier and weights at the time of disassembly.
2. Drive the weight pins in place, and install the retaining rings.
NOTE:
To install a weight pin correctly, push the grooved end through the smaller hole in the
carrier and through the weight. Drive the knurled end in just enough so the retaining
ring can be installed on the pin.
USED ENGINE OIL

3. Lubricate the weight shaft with clean engine oil.
2.27.10 Assembly of Governor Weight and Shaft Assembly(Turbocharged

Engines)
Assemble the governor weight and shaft assembly on engine as follows:

1. Support the weight carrier, rear face up, on a sleeve and a steel support, with a 1 in. hole,
over an opening in the arbor press bed. See Figure 2-184.
1. Weight Carrier 3. Sleeve

2. Shaft
Figure 2-184 Installing Governor Weight Shaft in Weight Carrier
USED ENGINE OIL

2. Lubricate the weight shaft with engine oil.

3. Insert the non-splined end of the shaft through the carrier, sleeve, and hole in the steel
support. Press the shaft straight into the carrier until the shoulder on the shaft is tight
against the carrier.

USED ENGINE OIL

4. If removed, place the governor weight, either end up, on the arbor press bed. Lubricate
the outer surface of the bearing with engine oil, and start the bearing, numbered end
up, straight into the weight bore.
5. Insert the pilot end of installer J 8985 in the bearing and under the press ram. See Figure
2-185.
1. Weight 2. Bearing
Figure 2-185 Installing Bearings in Governor Weight using Tool J 8985
6. Press the bearing straight in the weight until it is flush with the top of the weight. Reverse
the weight on the press and install the second bearing.
7. Install the bearings in the second weight, if removed. Place the governor weight, either
end up, on the arbor press bed.

USED ENGINE OIL

8. Lubricate the outer surface of the bearing with engine oil, and start the bearing, numbered
end up, straight into the weight bore.
9. Insert the pilot end of installer J 8985 in the bearing and under the press ram.
10. Press the bearing straight in the weight until it is flush with the top of the weight. Reverse
the weight on the press and install the second bearing.
11. Lubricate the needle bearings with Shell Alvania No. 2 grease, or equivalent.
12. Position the weight carrier and shaft assembly on a bench with one pair of the weight
pin arms facing up.
13. Install a lock ring in the weight pin groove. Place a flat washer over the opposite end of
the pin and against the lock ring.
14. Insert the pin through the bearing in the carrier arm, and place a second flat washer over
the pin and against the carrier arm.
15. Position the governor weight and bearing assembly between the weight carrier arms.
Push the weight pin through the weight.
16. Insert a third flat washer between the inner face of the carrier arm and the weight, and
push the pin through the washer and the carrier arm.
17. Install the fourth flat washer over the pin and against the outside of the carrier arm. Install
the second lock ring in the weight pin groove.
18. Install the second and third (12V and 16V turbocharged engines) governor weight and
bearing assemblies in the carrier. Install a lock ring in the weight pin groove. Place a flat
washer over the opposite end of the pin and against the lock ring.
19. Insert the pin through the bearing in the carrier arm, and place a second flat washer over
the pin and against the carrier arm.
20. Position the governor weight and bearing assembly between the weight carrier arms.
Push the weight pin through the weight.
21. Insert a third flat washer between the inner face of the carrier arm and the weight, and
push the pin through the washer and the carrier arm.
22. Install the fourth flat washer over the pin and against the outside of the carrier arm. Install
the second lock ring in the weight pin groove.

2.27.11 Installation of the Governor Weight and Shaft Assembly

(Non-Turbocharged)
Install the governor weight and shaft assembly in the governor housing on non-turbocharged
engines as follows:
1. Slide the governor riser on the weight shaft and against the high-speed weight fingers.
2. Place the governor riser thrust bearing over the weight shaft with the bearing race having
the smaller inside diameter against the riser.
3. Insert the weight carrier and shaft assembly in the governor housing. Support the splined
end of the shaft and the governor housing on the arbor press bed, with the upper end
of the shaft under the press ram.
4. Place the weight shaft bearing in the governor housing, numbered side up, and start it
straight on the end of the weight carrier shaft.
5. Place a sleeve with a 1/2 in. inside diameter on top of the bearing inner race, and press the
bearing into the housing and against the shaft shoulder.
6. Place the special lock washer on the end of the weight carrier shaft with the tang on the
washer inner diameter in the notch in the shaft end.
7. Place the flat washer on the bearing retainer bolt, and thread the bolt into the shaft.
8. Clamp the splined end of the weight carrier shaft in the soft jawed bench vise, and tighten
the bearing retainer bolt to 20-26 N·m (15-19 lb·ft) torque. Bend the lock washer tang
against the bolt head.
9. Place a gasket in the housing and against the bearing. Apply a Loctite sealant grade HV, or
equivalent, to the full plug circumference.
NOTE:
Rotate the governor weight assembly. If it binds, remove the housing plug and inspect
the weight shaft bearing. It must be fully seated in the governor housing.
10. Thread the plug into the tapped end of the governor weight housing. Tighten the plug to
61 N·m (45 lb·ft) torque.
2.27.12 Assembly of Variable Speed Spring Housing
See Figure 2-186 for part locations. Assemble the variable speed spring housing as follows:

1. Washer 13. Shims

2. Seal Ring 14. Key
3. Bearing 15. Set Screw
4. Shaft 16. Lock Washer
5. Lever 17. Allen Screw
6. Spring Retainer 18. Bolt
7. Spring 19. Idle Screw
8. Plunger 20. Locknut
9. Plunger Guide 21. Cover
10. Gasket 22. Cover Gasket
11. Solid Stop 23. Housing
12. Split Stop
Figure 2-186 Variable Speed Spring Housing

1. Lubricate the speed control lever shaft needle bearings with Shell Alvania No. 2 grease,
or equivalent.
2. Start one of the bearings, numbered end up, straight in the bearing bore in the right hand
side of the spring housing.
3. Install the needle bearing pilot rod in the installer body, and secure it in place with the
retaining screw.
4. Place the bearing installer assembly pilot rod end in the bearing. Support the spring
housing, bearing, and installer on a short sleeve on the arbor press bed. See Figure 2-187.
1. Sleeve 3. Bearing
2. Spring Housing
Figure 2-187 Installing Speed Control Shaft Bearing in Spring Housing
5. Press the bearing in the housing until the installer shoulder contacts the housing.
NOTE:
When the shoulder on the installer body contacts the housing, the bearing will be
properly positioned in the housing.
6. Install the roller type bearing and pin in the spring lever. Press the pin below the surface of
the lever, and stake at three places on both sides of the lever.
7. If removed, install the spring lever Woodruff key in the speed control lever shaft center
keyway.
8. Place the spring lever assembly between the bearing bores inside the spring housing with
the lever arm facing out.

9. Insert the correct end of the speed control lever shaft, single or double lever type, through
the bearing bore in the side of the spring housing, opposite the bearing previously installed.
10. Align the key in the shaft with the keyway in the spring lever, and push the shaft through
the lever and in the bearing until the flat on the top of the shaft is centered under the
lever set screw hole.
11. Thread the set screw into the spring lever, ensuring screw point is seated in the flat on
the shaft.
12. Place the second speed control lever shaft needle bearing, numbered end up, over the
protruding shaft end, and start it straight in the housing bore.
13. Remove the bearing pilot rod from the installer body, and place the installer body over the
shaft end and against the bearing.
14. Support the spring housing, bearings, and installer on a short sleeve on the arbor press
bed. Press the bearing in the housing until the installer shoulder contacts the housing.
15. If a single lever shaft was installed in the spring housing, apply a thin coat of sealing
compound to the outside diameter of the cup plug.
16. Start the cup plug straight in the housing bearing bore. Support the spring housing,
bearings, and shaft assembly on a sleeve on the arbor press bed, and press the cup plug in
flush with the housing outside face.
17. Clamp the spring housing assembly in a soft-jawed bench vise. Tighten the spring lever
retaining set screw to 7-10 N·m (5-7 lb·ft) torque.
18. Stake the edge of the spring lever set screw hole with a small center punch and hammer to
retain the set screw in the lever. Install the plug in the spring housing.
19. On a single lever shaft, place a seal ring over the shaft end, and push it into the bearing
bore and against the bearing.
20. Place the plain washer over the shaft and against the housing. Install the Woodruff key in
the keyway in the shaft.
21. On a double lever shaft, place a seal ring over each shaft end, and push them into the
bearing bores and against the bearings.
22. Place a plain washer over each shaft end and against the housing. Install a Woodruff key
in the keyway at each shaft end.
23. Place the speed control lever(s) on the shaft in its original position. Align the keyway in
the lever with the key in the shaft, and push the lever in against the plain washer. Secure it
with the retaining bolt and lock washer.
24. If removed, thread the locknut on the idle speed adjusting screw. Thread the idle speed
adjusting screw into the spring housing approximately 1 in.
Attach the variable speed spring plunger guide, plunger, retainer, shims, spring, stops, and spring
housing assembly to the governor housing as follows:

2. If removed, start the variable speed spring plunger guide straight in the boss inside the
governor housing. Tap it into place with a small brass rod and hammer.
USED ENGINE OIL

3. Lubricate the small end of the variable speed spring plunger with engine oil. Insert the
plunger in the governor housing plunger guide.
4. Place the spring retainer solid stop in the governor housing counter bore.
5. Lubricate the outside diameter of the variable speed spring retainer with engine oil. Insert
the spring retainer, solid end first, into the spring housing and against the spring lever.
NOTE:
Use shims with an 11/32 in. inside diameter and a spring retainer with three bleed holes
when a two-spring assembly is used. On the one-spring assembly, either spring retainer
may be used with shims that have a 3/4 in. inner diameter. Do not use the 11/32 in. inner
diameter shims with a spring retainer that has only one air bleed hole.
6. Replace as many shims in the spring retainer as were removed, thin shims first. Insert the
spring retainer split stop in the spring housing approximately 1/16 in. from the finished
face of the housing.
7. Affix a new gasket to the spring housing forward face. Insert the variable speed spring
into the spring housing and spring retainer with the tightly wound end of the spring against
the shims in the retainer. If a tow spring assembly is used, insert the inner spring inside
the outer spring.
8. Place the variable speed spring housing into position against the governor housing with
the speed control lever facing the bottom of the governor and the variable speed spring
over the spring plunger end inside the governor housing.
9. Install the two spring housing retaining bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts to 18-23
N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
Assemble the governor cover as follows:

1. If the stop lever bushing was removed from the cover, place the cover, inner face down, on
two steel supports on the arbor press bed. See Figure 2-188.
1. Governor Cover 2. Bearings
Figure 2-188 Installing Bearings in Governor Cover using Tool J 21068
USED ENGINE OIL

2. Lubricate the new needle bearing with engine oil. Start the bearing, numbered end up,
straight in the bearing bore in the cover boss.
3. Place the end of installer J 21068 in the bearing, and press the bearing into the cover until
the stop on the installer contacts the cover boss.

USED ENGINE OIL

4. Reverse the cover, inner face up, on the arbor press bed. Lubricate the second bearing
with engine oil, and start the bearing, numbered end up, straight in the cover boss bore.
5. Place the bearing installer J 21068 in the bearing, and press the bearing in the bore until it
is flush with the boss face.
6. Lubricate the stop lever shaft needle bearings with Shell Alvania No. 2 grease, or
equivalent. Insert the stop shaft through the bearings in the cover.
7. Place the seal ring over the shaft, and push it into the bearing bore and against the bearing.
the snap ring in the shaft groove.
9. Place the stop shaft lever return spring over the stop shaft with the hooked end of the
spring facing up. Install the stop lever on the shaft, and secure it with the retaining bolt
and lock washer.
2.27.13 Installation of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor(6V and 8V

Engines)
Install the governor on 6V and 8V engines as follows:

1. Affix a new gasket to the fuel pump bolting flange. Place the fuel pump against the
governor housing in its original position, and secure it with the three bolt and seal
assembly. Tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
2. If removed, place a fuel rod cover tube hose and clamp on each fuel rod cover tube at
each side of the governor housing.
4. Place the fuel pump drive fork on the fuel pump shaft. Position the governor and fuel
pump assembly in front of the blower.
5. Rotate the fuel pump fork until the fork prongs align with the drive disc slots. Rotate the
weight shaft, and align the shaft splines with the blower rotor splines.
6. Push the governor straight back over the dowels in the blower end plate and against the
gasket.

7. See Figure 2-189. Install the bolts, lock washers, copper washers, and plain washer that
secure the governor to the blower. Tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
Figure 2-189 Torque Sequence
8. Slide each fuel rod cover tube hose on the cover tubes attached to the cylinder heads.
9. Install and connect the crossover fuel oil line to each cylinder head, and connect the fuel
11. Position the bypass tube so it clears the governor, fuel pump, and fuel oil lines. Tighten
the hose clamps.
1. Insert the lower end of the left-bank fuel rod down through the top of the governor housing
and through the fuel rod cover tubes to the injector control tube lever.
2. Raise the connecting pin up in the connecting link lever. Insert the fuel rod end between the
two lever bosses, and insert the connecting pin through the fuel rod and into the lower boss.
pin and cotter pin.

5. Remove the short screw pin from the control link operating lever. Insert the end of the fuel
rod between the two lever bosses, and install the screw pin. Tighten the pin.
pin and cotter pin.
Continue governor installation as follows:
on the governor housing with the stop control shaft assembly pin in the differential lever
slot and the housing dowel pins in the cover dowel pin holes.
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
2. Install the stop lever return spring special screw. Install the eight governor cover attaching
screws and lock washers. Tighten the screws.
NOTE:
The short cover attaching screw with the drilled head goes in the corner hole next to the
variable speed spring housing.
3. With the hooked end of the stop lever return spring in position on the lever, place the
extending end of the spring behind the special cover attaching screw.
4. Attach the booster spring to the speed control lever, and tighten the outer booster spring
adjusting nut on the eyebolt.
5. Install all of the accessories that were removed from the cylinder head, governor or the
front end of the engine.
6. Connect the control linkage to the speed control and stop levers.
7. Close the drain cocks, and fill the cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.

Engines)
Install the governor on 12V and 16V engines as follows:

1. Affix a new governor housing gasket to the forward face of the blower end plate.
2. Position the governor in front of the end plate. Align the weight shaft splines with the
blower rotor splines.

3. Push the weight shaft in the rotor, and slide the governor housing over the end plate
dowel pins and against the gasket.
4. Install the bolts, lock washers, plain washer, and copper washers that secure the governor
to the blower. Tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
5. Affix a new blower housing gasket to the cylinder block with a good grade gasket cement
to prevent the gasket from shifting when the blower is positioned.
7. Lift the blower and governor assembly at a slight angle, and position it on top of the
cylinder block with the rear end plate cover flange inside the blower drive shaft cover hose.
8. Finger-tighten a 7/16 in.-14 x 8-1/4 in. bolt and special washer in the center hole of
each blower end plate.
9. Install and finger-tighten the 3/8 in.-16 x 5-1/2 in. bolts and retaining washers at each
NOTE:
housing just above the bolt slot.
10. Tighten the bolts as follows:

[a] Tighten the blower-to-block end plate bolts to 54-81 N·m (40-60 lb·ft) torque.
[b] Tighten the blower housing-to-block side angle bolts uniformly to 41-47 N·m
(30-35 lb·ft) torque in 7 N·m (5 lb·ft) increments.
[c] Recheck the blower-to-block end plate bolts.
11. Slide the blower drive support-to-blower hose (seal) and clamps into position. Tighten
the clamps.
12. Insert the blower drive shaft through the blower drive coupling and into the blower drive
hub. Install the retaining snap ring in the flexible coupling groove.
13. Affix a new gasket to the flywheel housing hole cover. Attach the cover to the flywheel
housing with six bolts and lock washers.
2.27.15 Installation of Variable Speed Mechanical Governor (Engine


1. Affix a new gasket to the alternator drive assembly.
2. Place the alternator drive coupling on the drive hub.
3. Place the drive assembly into position, and align the slots in the drive coupling with the
drive hub on the blower drive gear.
4. Place the drive assembly against the flywheel housing.

5. Install the bolts, lock washers, and alternator adjusting strap.

6. Install the alternator drive pulley and drive belt.

Engines Continued)

1. On an engine equipped with a hydraulic oil pump, refer to the manufacturers' service
manual for the marine gear, reduction gear, or transmission used on the engine.
2. Connect the blower drive support oil tube to the fitting in the blower drive support.
Tighten the two seal ring retaining plate bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
3. Affix a new gasket to the fuel pump flange, and install the fuel pump drive fork and fuel
pump on the governor housing.
4. Connect the fuel pump inlet and outlet tubes or hoses to the fuel pump.
5. Slide the governor housing-to-auxiliary control link housing hose, clamp it into position
between the two housings, and tighten the hose clamp.
6. Slide the fuel rod cover hose down the cover tube attached to the cylinder head at each
side of the governor housing. Tighten the hose clamps.
7. Position the control link operating lever connecting link in the governor and auxiliary
housings. Connect it to the ball joint studs in the control link operating levers.
2. Raise the connecting pin up in the connecting link lever. Insert the end of the fuel rod
between the two lever bosses. Insert the connecting pin through the fuel rod and into
the lower boss.
pin and cotter pin.
5. Remove the short screw pin from the control link operating lever. Insert the fuel rod
end between the two lever bosses.
6. Install the screw pin, and tighten it securely.
pin and cotter pin.
Complete governor installation as follows:
1. Place a new auxiliary control link housing cover gasket on the housing. Install the cover,
and secure it with screws and lock washers.

2. Place a new governor housing cover gasket on the housing. Install the cover, and secure
it with screws and lock washers.
3. If removed, attach the booster spring bracket to the cylinder head. Attach the booster
spring to the speed control lever. Tighten the outer booster spring adjusting nut on the
eyebolt.
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
4. Install the cylinder head rocker covers. Refer to section 1.6.5.

5. On non-turbocharged engines, proceed as follows:
[b] Place the blower screen, wire side down, on top of the blower.
[c] Install the air shutdown adaptor.
[d] Attach the air shutdown housings and gaskets to the adaptors.
6. On turbocharged engines, proceed as follows:
[b] Place the blower screen, wire side down, and install the air shutdown adaptor and
air shutdown housing on the blower as an assembly.
[c] Attach the shutdown rod to the lever on the shutdown housing.
7. On non-turbocharged engines, connect the air inlet tubes to the air shutdown housings.
8. On turbocharged engines, attach the air inlet tube to the rear air shutdown housing and the
turbocharger.
9. On marine engines, install the air silencers on the air shutdown housings.
10. Connect the linkage to the governor speed control and stop levers.

2.28 SG HYDRAULIC GOVERNORS
Fluctuating loads vary the engine horsepower requirements. The governor controls the amount of
fuel required to hold the engine speed reasonably constant during load fluctuations. A governor is
introduced in the linkage between the throttle control and the fuel injectors.
Engines, subjected to varying load conditions that require an automatic fuel compensation to
maintain a more constant engine speed with a minimum speed droop, are equipped with a
hydraulic governor.
In the hydraulic governor, the governor throttle control terminal lever retracting spring decreases
the fuel and the opposing action of the power piston increases it. A pilot valve controls the
oil flow to the power piston. The governor flyweights control the pilot valve movement. The
speeder spring compression opposes the centrifugal force of these flyweights, which may be
varied, and accurately set and held at any speed between idle and maximum speed. The speed
droop, the difference between no-load speed and full-load speed, is adjustable to within a very
small percentage at maximum speed.

The governor is a hydraulic type with a speed droop stabilization mechanism. See Figure 2-190.
Oil admitted under pressure from the engine lubricating system to an auxiliary oil pump in the
governor transmits the hydraulic action. The auxiliary pump develops the oil pressure necessary
to actuate the governor mechanism.
1. Oil Pump Drive Gear 7. Terminal Lever

2. Ball Head and Weight Assembly 8. Floating Pin
3. Speeder Spring 9. Pilot Valve Plunger
4. Maximum Speed Adjusting Screw 10. Power Piston
5. Fuel Rod Spring 11. Oil Pump Driven Gear
6. Droop Adjusting Bracket
Figure 2-190 Hydraulic Governor Assembly

To stabilize the governor, a speed droop adjustment is incorporated in the governor mechanism. A
droop adjusting bracket attached to the top of the terminal lever regulates the speed droop. To
decrease the governor droop, move the droop adjusting bracket IN and move it in the opposite
direction to increase the governor droop.
The hydraulically operated power piston increases the amount of fuel supplied to the injectors.
The fuel rod spring decreases it.
The governor is located at the front of the 6V and 8V engines and at the center of the 12V and
16V engines. See Figure 2-191. It is mounted on the governor drive housing, which also serves as
the blower front cover (rear blower on the 12V and 16V engine). See Figure 2-192.

1. Governor Drive Housing 6. Speed Control Lever

2. Left Vertical Link Assembly 7. Oil Inlet Tube
3. Governor Operating Solenoid Valve 8. Right Vertical Assembly
4. Governor Assembly 9. Governor Oil Reservoir
5. Governor Operating Lever 10. Oil Inlet Plug
Figure 2-191 Typical Hydraulic Governor Mounting

1. Left Vertical Link Assembly 6. Governor Assembly

2. Oil Inlet Plug 7. Oil Inlet Tube
3. Right Vertical Link Assembly 8. Governor Oil Reservoir
4. Governor Operating Lever 9. Governor Drive Housing
5. Speed Control Lever
Figure 2-192 Hydraulic Governor Mounted on 12V and 16V Engine
The governor is driven by one of the blower rotors through a horizontal drive shaft and bevel
gear and a vertical driven sleeve and bevel gear, both mounted on ball bearings and retained in
the governor drive housing.

The governor, through a linkage consisting of the fuel rods, vertical link, and levers, actuates the
injector control tubes. Refer to section 2.30. See Figure 2-193.
Figure 2-193 Position of Governor Mechanism When Load is Constant
Two pairs of fuel rods are used on the 12V and 16V engines. Each pair of rods is connected to a
shaft and lever assembly. The two shaft and lever assemblies, mounted on self-aligning bearings,
are connected to a common lever to which the vertical link is attached.
With a cold engine, time is required to develop sufficient oil pressure to operate the governor
and move the injector control racks to the full-fuel position. Since this delay is undesirable, the
starting time can be shortened by moving the governor operating lever to the full-fuel position,
taking injector rack control away from the governor. On certain installations, an oil reservoir
supplies the governor with sufficient oil to overcome this delay in governor operation.
NOTE:
Move the governor operating lever to the no fuel position to stop the engine, regardless
of the governor.

The hydraulic governor acts as an automatic shutdown device if engine lubricating oil pressure is
lost. Should the engine fail to supply oil to the governor, the power piston will drop, allowing
the governor operating lever to return to the no-fuel position.
With the engine operating, oil from the engine lubrication system is admitted to the space around
the oil pump gears. The gears raise the oil pressure to a value determined by the relief valve
plunger spring, which opposes the relief valve plunger. Oil pressure is maintained in the annular
space between the undercut portion of the pilot valve plunger and the ball head bore.
For any given throttle setting, the speeder spring has a definite compressional force. The
centrifugal force of the revolving flyweights opposes the compressional force. When the
two forces are equal, the pilot valve plunger land covers the lower opening in the ball head,
maintaining a constant speed.

When the load on an engine is increased, the engine speed will momentarily drop. The speeder
spring will force the governor weights inward, permitting the pilot valve plunger to uncover the
lower port in the ball head. Once this port is uncovered, oil, under governor pump pressure, will
enter the cavity at the lower end of the power piston and force the piston and floating lever
upward. See Figure 2-194. The upward piston motion is transmitted through the terminal lever
and the fuel rod to the injector control tube, causing the engine fuel setting to increase.
Figure 2-194 Position of Governor Mechanism as Load Increases and Engine

Speed Tends to Decrease

As the power piston and the floating lever rise, the compressional load on the speeder spring is
reduced, allowing the flyweights to move out to their normal vertical position. With the governor
weights in a vertical position, the land on the pilot valve plunger will cover the ball head ports,
trapping the regulating oil under the power piston. The engine will carry the increased load at
a slightly reduced speed. See Figure 2-195.
Figure 2-195 Position of Governor Mechanism as Load Decreases and Engine

Speed Tends to Increase
The revolving governor flyweights vaporize the oil seeping past the power piston and pilot valve
plunger, providing lubrication to the moving parts in the governor housing. The governor pump,
pilot valve plunger, and power piston are exposed to pressurized oil. The pilot valve plunger has
two oil holes to provide additional lubrication to the thrust bearing. Oil, that collects on the
governor housing floor, passes through a passage into the governor drive housing and provides
lubrication to the governor drive and driven shaft beveled gears and their bearings.
On rare occasions, the linkage of SG hydraulic governors will jam, but only when all of the
following conditions occur:

1. The SG governor output (terminal) shaft is rotated more than 39 degrees while the power
piston is still at minimum position.
2. The SG governor has a horizontal return spring and no internal return spring.
3. The SG governor contains a 011649 power piston with a 0.380 in. diameter or larger hole
for the 218259 strut (manufactured since mid-1983).
4. The SG governor is tilted off vertical in the right direction to allow the 218259 strut to fall
into a jammed position.
For further information regarding this condition, Woodward® Governor Company should be
contacted directly at:
Woodward Governor Company1000 East Drake RoadFort Collins, Co 80522-1519,Phone: (303)
482-5811

2.28.1 Repair or Replacement of SG Hydraulic Governor
2-196.
Figure 2-196 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of SG Hydraulic Governor

2.28.2 Removal of SG Hydraulic Governor

1. Remove the nut, lock washer, and bolt securing the speed control lever to the speed
adjusting shaft. Pull the lever with link assembly attached from the shaft.
2. Mark the governor operating lever position on the terminal lever shaft.
3. Loosen the bolt securing the lever to the shaft. Pull the lever, with link assembly attached,
from the shaft.
NOTE:
The surplus oil returns to the engine crankcase through connecting drilled passages in
the blower end plate and cylinder block.
4. If the governor is equipped with a governor operating solenoid valve assembly, disconnect
and remove the oil tube from the valve assembly and governor housing.
5. Disconnect and remove the oil inlet tube assembly from the governor oil inlet elbow and
the governor oil reservoir, if used.
6. On a governor equipped with a synchronizing motor, tag and disconnect the wires from
the motor.
7. Remove the four bolts and lock washers securing the governor assembly to the governor
drive housing or housing cover.
NOTICE:
Do not remove only the vertical shaft and bearing. If the
horizontal drive shaft and bearing assembly is left in the
governor drive housing, the shaft will move freely back and forth
during engine operation. This is due to the absence of load on
the bevel gear which would normally keep the horizontal shaft
in position. The rapid rotation and back-and-forth movement
of the horizontal drive shaft can cause severe damage to the
governor drive housing.
8. Lift the governor away from the drive housing or cover, and remove the gasket.
2.28.2.1 Cleaning of SG Hydraulic Governor

USED ENGINE OIL

1. Wash the governor thoroughly in clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
NOTE:
Governor disassembly should to be carried out only as far as necessary to correct the
difficulties that interfere with proper governor operation.
2.28.3 Disassembly of SG Hydraulic Governor
See Figure 2-197, see Figure 2-198, and see Figure 2-199 for component location. Disassemble
the governor as follows:

1. Governor Base Screw 11. Terminal Lever Oil Seal

2. Relief Valve Sleeve 12. Front Terminal Lever Shaft
3. Relief Valve 13. Housing Plug
4. Relief Valve Spring 14. Terminal Lever Bushing
5. Retaining Sleeve Spring 15. Power Piston
6. Governor Oil Inlet Plug 16. Floating Pin
7. Relief Valve Gasket 17. Torsion Spring
8. Relief Valve Oil Seal 18. Thrust Plunger, Pilot Valve and Bearing
9. Speed Adjusting Lever Shaft 19. Pilot Valve Plunger
10. Bushing 20. Speeder Spring
Figure 2-197 SG Hydraulic Governor (1 of 3)

21. Adjusting Fork 31. Copper Washers

22. Floating Adjusting Speed Lever 32. Locknut
23. Subcap Gasket 33. Load-Limit Adjusting Screws
24. Subcap 34. Guide Rod Spring Seat
25. Lock Washer 55. Terminal Lever Return Spring
26. Governor Cover Gasket 36. Gasket
27. Governor Cap 37. Spring Pad Cover
28. Bolt 38. Internal Lock Washer
29. Low-Speed Stop Screw 39. Spring Pad Screw
30. Subcap Housing Screw 40. Lock Ring

41. Governor Base 51. Cap Plug

42. Ring Seal 52. Rear Terminal Lever Shaft
43. Oil Pump Drive Gear 53. Terminal Lever Bushing
44. Oil Pump Driven Gear 54. Ball Head Assembly
45. Governor Housing 55. Cotter Pin
46. Maximum Speed Adjusting Screw 56. Terminal Lever Cross Pin
47. Locknut 57. Speed Droop Adjusting Bracket
48. Spacer Cap Gasket 58. Plain Washer
49. Dummy Hole Plug 59. Droop Adjusting Bracket Screw
50. Speed Adjusting Lever Shaft Bushing 60. Terminal Lever

1. Clamp the governor housing and base assembly in a soft-jawed bench vise. See Figure
2-200.
1. Governor Housing 2. Speed Adjusting Lever
Figure 2-200 Removing Speed Adjusting Lever Roll Pin
2. If necessary, remove the oil inlet elbow or fitting from the oil inlet plug.
3. Remove the three cover screws. Remove the cover and gasket from the housing.
NOTE:
To facilitate governor subcap removal, disassemble the subcap before removing from the
governor housing. See Figure 2-201 and see Figure 2-202.

1. Spring Guide Rod 5. Load Limit Adjusting Screw

2. Terminal Lever Cross Pin 6. Spring Pad Cover
3. Subcap Screw 7. Fuel Rod Spring
4. Subcap 8. Spring Seat
Figure 2-201 Top View of Governor Assembly with Cover Removed

1. Terminal Lever Shaft 6. Bushing

2. Floating Lever 7. Speed Adjusting Lever
3. Terminal Lever 8. Maximum Speed Adjusting Screw
4. Droop Adjusting Bracket 9. Speed Adjusting Screw
5. Cotter Pin 10. Spring Fork
Figure 2-202 Top View of Governor with Subcap Removed
4. Remove the two screws and lock washers securing the spring pad cover to the subcap.
5. Remove the cover from the spring guide rod. Remove the cover gasket.
6. Remove the fuel rod spring and the spring guide rod seat from the spring guide rod and
subcap. Pull the spring guide rod from the subcap with a pair of pliers.
7. Loosen the load limit adjusting screw locknut, and remove the screw, locknut and copper
washer from the subcap.
8. Remove the two subcap screws and lock washers securing the subcap to the governor
housing. Remove the subcap and gasket from the housing.
9. Remove the terminal lever cross pin from the terminal lever arms.
10. On a governor equipped with a synchronizing motor, remove the end of the speed
adjusting lever retracting spring from the hole in the side of the speed adjusting lever
with needle nose pliers.
NOTE:
If the maximum speed adjusting screw is not removed, the speed adjusting lever roll
(spring) pin will hit the screw when it is removed from the speed adjusting lever and shaft.

11. Loosen the maximum speed adjusting screw locknut, and remove the adjusting screw, nut
and copper washer from the governor housing.
12. Remove the speed droop adjusting bracket screw lock washer and plain washer from
the terminal lever.
13. Remove the droop adjusting bracket from the floating lever and the terminal lever.
14. Remove the speed adjusting lever roll (spring) pin from the speed adjusting lever and the
lever shaft with a small punch and hammer.
15. Record the position of the groove in the outside diameter of the speed adjusting lever shaft
to ensure the groove will be installed in the same position at reassembly.
16. Pull the shaft out of the speed adjusting lever and governor housing.

17. Lift the speed adjusting lever, floating lever, spring fork, speeder spring, and pilot valve
plunger from the governor housing as an assembly. See Figure 2-203.
1. Speeder Spring 3. Floating Lever

2. Speed Adjusting Lever 4. Terminal Lever
Figure 2-203 Removing Speed Adjusting Lever, Spring Fork, Speeder Spring
and Pilot Valve Plunger Assembly
18. Remove the pilot valve plunger thrust bearing and the roll (spring) pin from the governor
housing.
19. On a governor equipped with a synchronizing motor, slide the speed adjusting lever
retracting spring off the speed adjusting shaft bushing, and remove it from the housing.
If necessary, the speed adjusting lever, floating lever, spring fork, speeder spring, and pilot valve
plunger and spring seat assembly may be disassembled as follows:

1. Straighten the bent end of the wire pin securing the speed adjusting lever and spring
fork to the speed adjusting floating lever.
2. Pull the pin out of the speed adjusting lever, floating lever and spring fork with a pair
of pliers.
3. Insert a small screwdriver between the spring and fork, and pry the speeder spring from
the spring fork.
4. Work a small screwdriver under the speeder spring, and remove the spring from the pilot
valve plunger and spring seat assembly.
1. Remove the two cotter pins securing the terminal lever to the terminal lever shafts. Pull
the long terminal lever shaft from the terminal lever and the governor housing.
2. Place a 1/4 in. brass rod approximately 5 in. long through the terminal lever shaft opening
in the governor housing and terminal lever and against the inner end of the second
terminal lever shaft.

3. Drive the governor housing cup plug out of the housing boss. See Figure 2-204.
1. Governor Housing Assembly 3. Cup Plug

2. Terminal Lever 4. Terminal Lever Shaft
Figure 2-204 Removing Cup Plug from Governor Housing
4. Push the terminal lever shaft out of the terminal lever and housing with the brass rod.
5. Remove the brass rod, and lift the terminal lever out of the housing.
6. Remove the terminal lever-to-power piston pin from the piston.
7. Remove the governor housing from the bench vise. Turn the governor upside down, and
remove the power piston from the housing.
NOTE:
It may be necessary to tap the face of the governor housing lightly on a wood block to
jar the piston out of the housing.

8. Place the governor housing, bottom side up, on a bench.

9. Remove the lock ring from the groove in the ball head shaft with snap ring pliers. Remove
the ball head and flyweight assembly from the housing.
10. Remove the three screws securing the governor base to the governor housing.
11. Tap the edge of the governor base lightly with a plastic hammer to loosen it. Remove the
base and seal ring from the governor housing and dowel pins.
12. Remove the oil pump drive and driven gears from the governor base or housing.
13. Clamp the bottom (square portion) of the governor housing in a soft-jawed bench vise.
14. Remove the oil inlet plug, gasket, relief valve plunger sleeve retaining spring, and relief
valve plunger spring from the governor housing.
15. Remove the dummy hole plug and gasket from the opposite side of the governor housing.
16. Insert a small brass rod through the dummy hole opening, and push the relief valve
plunger and the relief valve plunger sleeve out of the governor housing. Catch the relief
valve plunger and sleeve by hand when removing them.
NOTE:
The relief valve plunger incorporates a No. 8-32 thread to facilitate plunger removal from
the housing, when required, without removing and disassembling the governor.
17. If necessary, remove the pipe plug in the forward face of the governor housing.
18. If necessary, insert a 1/4 in. brass rod through the shaft opening to remove the speed
adjusting lever shaft hole plug in the governor housing. Tap the cup plug out of the
housing boss with a hammer.
2.28.3.1 Cleaning of SG Hydraulic Governor
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Wash all governor parts in clean fuel oil.

EYE INJURY
2.28.3.2 Inspection of SG Hydraulic Governor
Inspect the governor as follows:

1. Visually inspect the pilot valve plunger and its bore in the ball head for scoring and burrs.
[a] If slightly scored, the area may be cleaned with a fine India stone.
NOTE:
Use care not to round off the plunger edges.
[b] If excessively scored or burred, replace the plunger. Refer to section 2.28.4.
[c] If not scored or burred, continue inspection.
2. Visually inspect the oil pump gears and the driven gear bushing for excessive wear and
damage.
[a] If excessively worn or damaged, replace the oil pump gears and driven gear bushing.
[b] If not excessively worn or damaged, proceed with the inspection.
3. Visually inspect the power piston and its governor housing bore for scoring and burrs.
[a] If slightly scored, the areas may be cleaned up with a fine India stone.
NOTE:
Use care to prevent stoning flat areas and rounding off the piston edges.
[b] If excessively scored or burred, replace the power piston and governor housing.
4. Visually inspect the outside diameter of the ball head and its bore in the governor housing
for scoring and burrs.
[a] If slightly scored, the areas may be cleaned up with a fine India stone.
NOTE:
Use care to prevent stoning flat areas and rounding off the edges of the ball head.

[b] If excessively scored or burred, replace the ball head and the governor housing.
5. Visually inspect the pilot valve plunger thrust bearing for excessive wear and flat spots.
NOTE:
The pilot valve plunger power piston and ball head assembly must operate freely in
their respective bores.
[a] If excessively worn and flat spots are detected, replace the pilot valve plunger thrust
bearing. Refer to section 2.28.4.
[b] If not excessively worn and no flat spots are evident, proceed with the inspection.
6. Inspect the finished flyweight radius (thrust bearing contact surfaces) for excessive wear
or flat spots.
[a] If excessively worn flat spots are detected, replace the flyweights. Refer to section
2.28.4.
[b] If not excessively worn and no flat spots are evident, proceed with the inspection.
7. Visually inspect the ends of the power piston-to-terminal lever pin for wear and scoring.
[a] If slightly scored, clean the ends with a fine India stone.
[b] If excessively scored or worn, replace the power piston-to-terminal lever pin.
[c] If not scored or worn, proceed with inspection.
8. Visually inspect the speed adjusting lever shaft and terminal lever shaft oil seals in the
governor housing for excessive wear.
[a] If excessively worn, replace the speed adjusting lever shaft and terminal lever shaft
oil seals. Refer to section 2.28.4.
9. Inspect the speed adjusting lever shaft and terminal lever shaft bushing in the governor
housing for excessive wear.
[a] If excessively worn, replace the speed adjusting lever shaft and terminal lever shaft
bushing. Refer to section 2.28.4.
[b] If not excessively worn, proceed with inspection.
10. Visually inspect the relief valve plunger and the inside diameter of the plunger sleeve for
wear, scratches, and sludge in the grooves and holes in the plunger and sleeve.
NOTE:
The current plunger incorporates four relief holes and is slightly larger than the former
plunger. The current sleeve assembly has the washer affixed to the sleeve. When it is
necessary to replace either the former plunger or the sleeve and washer, a plunger kit
must be used which includes the current plunger and a sleeve assembly.

[a] If worn, scratched, and sludge is present, replace with new plunger kit.
[b] If not worn, scratched, and sludge is not present, continue inspection.
11. Visually inspect the plunger and sleeve springs for fractured coils.
[a] If fractures are evident, replace with new plunger kit. Refer to section 2.28.4.
[b] If no fractures are evident, continue inspection.
12. Visually inspect the fuel rod spring for fractured coils.
[a] If fractured, replace the fuel rod spring. Refer to section 2.28.4.
[b] If not fractured, continue inspection.
13. Visually inspect the spring guide rod seat face where it contacts the terminal lever cross
pin for scoring and wear.
[a] If scored or worn, replace the spring guide rod seat. Refer to section 2.28.4.
[b] If not scored or worn, reuse the parts.
2.28.4 Assembly of SG Hydraulic Governor
Assemble the governor as follows:

1. If removed, install new speed adjusting lever and terminal lever shaft bushings in the
governor housing to the specified dimensions. See Figure 2-205.
1. Terminal Lever Shaft 2. Speed Adjusting Lever Shaft
Figure 2-205 Location of Speed Adjusting Lever and Terminal Lever Shaft
Bushings in Governor Housing
2. If removed, install the pipe plug in the governor housing.
USED ENGINE OIL

3. Lubricate the two oil pump gears with engine oil, and place them in their respective
positions in the governor base.
4. Place a new seal ring in the groove in the governor base, with the wide side of the seal
down in the groove.
5. Set the governor housing on the has, aligning the base dowels with the housing holes and
the housing idler gear stud with the idler gear hole.
6. Press the housing against the seal ring in the base.
7. Lubricate the outside diameter of the ball head and flyweight assembly with engine oil.

8. Insert the end of the ball head straight into and through the governor housing bore, drive
gear and base.
9. Insert the three screws through the governor base, and thread them into the governor
housing.
10. Turn the ball head assembly while tightening the three screws to ensure the ball head
assembly rotates freely.
11. If it binds, loosen the three screws, tap the sides of the base lightly with a plastic hammer,
and tighten the screws.
12. Revolve the ball head assembly, and check for bind. Repeat until all parts rotate freely.
13. Install the ball head lock ring in the groove in the ball head shaft with a pair of snap
ring pliers.
USED ENGINE OIL

14. Lubricate the outside diameter of the relief valve plunger and plunger sleeve with engine
oil. Insert the relief valve plunger into the plunger sleeve.
15. Insert the relief valve plunger and sleeve assembly straight into the opening in the
right-hand side of the governor housing (when viewed from the power piston side) with

the tapped hole in the relief valve plunger facing out. Push it in against the shoulder in
the housing. See Figure 2-206.
1. Governor Housing 5. Gasket

2. Plug 6. Oil Inlet Plug
3. Plunger Sleeve 7. Plunger Spring
4. Sleeve Spring 8. Relief Valve Plunger
Figure 2-206 Location of Oil Relief Valve Plunger, Plunger Sleeve, Springs,
Oil Inlet Plug, and Dummy Plug
16. Place the relief valve plunger spring and the plunger sleeve retaining spring in the housing
and against the plunger and sleeve.
17. Place a gasket on the oil inlet plug. Place the plug over the ends of the springs, and thread
it into the governor housing.
18. Place a gasket on the dummy hole plug, and thread it into the opening in the opposite side
of the governor housing.
19. Clamp the bottom (square portion) of the governor housing and base assembly in a
soft-jawed bench vise.
20. Tighten the oil inlet plug and the dummy hole plug securely.

USED ENGINE OIL

21. Lubricate the power piston with engine oil. Insert the piston, small end down, straight into
the governor housing piston bore, and push it in until it bottoms.
22. Apply a thin coat of sealing compound to the outside diameter of a new terminal lever
shaft oil seal.
23. Start the seal, with the lip of the seal facing down, straight into the terminal lever shaft
opening in the oil inlet plug side of the housing. Press the seal in flush with the outside
face of the boss.
24. Clamp the bottom (square portion) of the governor housing and base assembly between
the soft jaws of a bench vise.
USED ENGINE OIL

25. Lubricate the long terminal lever shaft with engine oil.
26. Place the terminal lever between the ends of the two bushings inside the governor housing.

27. Insert the serrated end (with the cotter pin hole) of the shaft through the oil seal and
bushing in the housing, with the cotter pin holes in the shaft and terminal lever aligned.
See Figure 2-207.
1. Terminal Lever Shaft 3. Cotter Pin

2. Terminal Lever 4. Governor Housing Assembly
Figure 2-207 Installing Terminal Lever Shaft in Governor Housing and

Terminal Lever
28. Push the shaft into the lever until the two holes align.
29. Install a cotter pin through the terminal lever and shaft, and bend the ends over the side of
the terminal lever.
30. Install the second terminal lever shaft in the housing and terminal lever at the opposite
side of the governor housing.

USED ENGINE OIL

31. Lubricate the long terminal lever shaft with engine oil.
32. Place the terminal lever between the ends of the two bushings inside the governor housing.
33. With the cotter pin holes in the shaft and terminal lever aligned, insert the serrated end
(with the cotter pin hole) of the shaft through the oil seal and bushing in the housing.
34. Push the shaft into the lever until the two holes align.
35. Install a cotter pin through the terminal lever and shaft, and bend the ends over the side of
the terminal lever.
36. Apply a thin coat of sealing compound to the outside diameter of a new governor housing
cup plug.
37. Start the plug, open end out, straight into the terminal lever shaft opening in the housing.
Press the plug in flush with the outside face of the housing boss.
38. Apply a thin coat of sealing compound to the outside diameter of a new speed adjusting
lever shaft oil seal.
39. Start the seal, with the seal lip facing down, straight into the speed adjusting lever shaft
opening in the oil inlet plug side of the housing. Press the seal in flush with the outside
face of the boss.
40. Apply a thin coat of sealing compound to the outside diameter of a new governor housing
cup plug.
41. Start the plug, open end out, straight into the speed adjusting lever shaft opening in the
housing. Press the plug in flush with the outside face of the housing boss.
USED ENGINE OIL

42. Lubricate the terminal lever-to-power piston pin with engine oil.
43. Raise the edge of the terminal lever, and insert the pin in the power piston hole. Lower
the terminal lever onto the pin.
If disassembled, assemble the speed adjusting lever, floating lever, spring fork, speeder spring,
and pilot valve plunger as follows:

1. Place the non-slotted end of the speed adjusting floating lever in the slot of the speed
adjusting lever so the pin holes are aligned.
2. Insert the long end of the speed adjusting lever-to-floating lever wire pin through the pin
hole in the speed adjusting lever and floating lever. See Figure 2-208.
1. Speed Adjusting Lever Shaft 3. Roll Pin Holes

2. Speed Adjusting Lever
Figure 2-208 Installing Speed Adjusting Lever Shaft in Governor Housing and
Adjusting Lever
3. Place the speed adjusting floating lever in the spring fork slot, with the pin holes aligned.
Insert the short end of the wire pin through the hole in the spring fork and floating lever.
4. Push the wire pin against the speed adjusting lever and spring fork, and bend the
protruding end of the wire pin toward the slotted end of the floating lever.
5. Press the lower end of the spring fork into the small end of the speeder spring. Insert the
opposite end of the spring in the spring seat of the pilot valve plunger.
Continue governor assembly as follows:
1. On a governor equipped with a synchronizing motor, place the speed adjusting lever
retracting spring over the speed adjusting lever shaft bushing in the governor housing,
with the hooked end over the slot between the two bushings.
2. Place the governor housing on its side, oil inlet plug side up, on a bench, housing top
facing out.

USED ENGINE OIL

3. Lubricate the pilot valve plunger thrust bearing with engine oil.
4. Place it over the end of the pilot valve plunger with the smallest, outside diameter, bearing
race next to the spring seat.
USED ENGINE OIL

5. Lubricate the pilot valve plunger with engine oil.

6. Hold the thrust bearing against the spring seat, and insert the assembly in the governor
housing with the speed adjusting lever facing the two housing bushings. See Figure 2-209.
1. Speed Adjusting Lever 5. Pilot Valve Plunger

2. Bushing 6. Speeder Spring
3. Flyweight 7. Terminal Lever
4. Ball Head Assembly 8. Floating Lever
Figure 2-209 Installing Speed Adjusting Lever, Floating Lever, Speeder Spring,
and Pilot Valve Plunger Assembly
7. Start the pilot valve plunger straight into the ball head bore, and push the assembly in until
the speed adjusting lever is in position between the two bushings and the thrust bearing is
resting on the lip of the flyweights.
8. Clamp the governor housing and base assembly in a soft-jawed bench vise.

USED ENGINE OIL

9. Lubricate the speed adjusting lever shaft with engine oil.

10. Rotate the shaft so the slot in the outside diameter of the shaft is in the same position
as at the time of removal.
11. Insert the shaft in the shaft bushing, from the oil inlet plug side, with the roll pin hole in
the shaft and lever aligned.
12. While holding the speed adjusting lever, push the shaft through the bushing, and into the
second shaft bushing until the pin holes are aligned.
NOTE:
On a governor equipped with a synchronizing motor, ensure hooked end of the speed
adjusting lever retracting spring is on top of the speed adjusting lever before installing
the shaft.
13. Start the speed adjusting lever roll (spring) pin straight in the pin hole in the lever. Tap the
pin through the lever and shaft until it is flush with the top of the lever.
14. On a governor equipped with a synchronizing motor, rotate the speed adjusting lever
retracting spring around the shaft bushing. Insert the hooked end of the spring in the small
hole in the side of the speed adjusting lever with needle nose pliers.
15. Place the speed droop adjusting bracket against the top face of the terminal lever, with
the pin in the bracket in the speed adjusting floating lever slot. Secure it to the lever
with a flat washer, lock washer and screw.
16. If removed, thread the locknut on the maximum speed adjusting screw. Place the copper
washer on the adjusting screw, and thread the screw approximately halfway in the
governor housing.
17. Install the terminal lever cross pin through the pin holes in the terminal lever with the
spring guide rod slot in the pin facing up.
18. Affix a new governor subcap gasket to the top of the governor housing.
19. Place the governor subcap on top of the gasket and housing with the fuel rod spring
opening in the subcap facing the maximum speed adjusting screw side of the governor
housing.
20. Install the two subcap screws and lock washers. Tighten them securely.

USED ENGINE OIL

21. Lubricate the spring guide rod with engine oil. Insert the rod end through the opening
in the subcap, through the slot in the terminal lever cross pin, and into the hole at the
opposite end of the subcap.
22. Place the spring guide rod seat, large diameter end first, over the end of the spring guide
rod. Push it forward over the rod and into the notch in the terminal lever cross pin with the
flat on the side of the seat adjacent to the terminal lever cross pin support.
23. Insert the end of the fuel rod spring over the end of the spring guide rod, through the
opening in the subcap and over the end of the spring guide rod seat.
24. Affix a new gasket to the flat face of the spring pad cover.
25. Place the spring pad cover against the end of the fuel rod spring.
26. Push in on the cover to compress the spring and, at the same time, pilot the end of the
spring guide rod in the hole in the flat face of the cover.
27. Install the two screws and lock washers. Tighten them securely.
28. If removed, thread the locknut on the load limit adjusting screw. Place the copper washer
over the end of the load limit adjusting screw.
29. Thread the screw into the subcap until the end protrudes approximately 1/8 in. through the
second boss inside the subcap.
30. Affix a new gasket to the top face of the governor subcap. Place the governor cover on top
of the gasket, and install the three screws with lock washers. Tighten the screws securely.
31. If removed, install the oil inlet elbow or fitting in the oil inlet plug.
2.28.5 Installation of SG Hydraulic Governor

1. Affix a new gasket to the top of the governor drive housing or housing cover.
2. Position the governor over the governor drive housing or housing cover with the ends of
the terminal lever and speed adjusting lever shafts facing the front end of the engine.
3. Turn the ball head assembly slightly to align the ball head shaft splines with the driven
shaft sleeve splines. Enter the shaft straight in the sleeve, and set the governor on the
gasket and drive housing or cover.
4. Install the four governor to drive housing bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts to
18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.

5. Install and connect the oil inlet tube assembly to governor oil reservoir or oil supply valve
(if used) and the oil inlet elbow or fitting.
6. If the governor is equipped with a governor operating solenoid valve assembly, install and
connect the oil tube to the valve assembly and the governor housing.
7. On a governor equipped with a synchronizing motor, connect the wires to the motor.
8. Place the governor operating lever, with link assembly attached, on the terminal lever shaft
in the same position as at the time of removal. Tighten the retaining bolt to 10-12 N·m
9. Place the speed control lever, with link assembly attached, on the speed adjusting lever
shaft.
10. Install the bolt, lock washer, and nut. Tighten the bolt nut to 11-14 N·m (8-10 lb·ft) torque.
11. Position the injector control racks and make the final governor adjustments.
Refer to section 12.4.

2.29 PSG HYDRAULIC GOVERNOR
The governor is located at the front of the engine and is mounted on the governor drive housing,
which serves as the blower front cover. See Figure 2-210.
1. Oil Supply Line 5. Operating Lever

2. Oil Filter 6. Vertical Link
3. Governor 7. Bell Crank Lever
4. Speed Control Shaft 8. Fuel Rod Cover
Figure 2-210 PSG Hydraulic Governor Mounting

A blower rotor drives the governor through a horizontal drive shaft and bevel gear and a vertical
driven shaft. Both shafts are mounted on ball bearings and are retained in the governor drive
housing. The governor, through a linkage consisting of the fuel rods, vertical link and levers,
actuates the injector control tubes. See Figure 2-211.
1. Right-Bank Fuel Rod 4. Vertical Link

2. Governor Drive Housing 5. Left-Bank Fuel Rod
3. Governor Operating Lever 6. Control Link Lever
Figure 2-211 Enclosed Type Governor to Injector Rack Control Linkage
This isochronous hydraulic governor has a speed droop stabilization mechanism. Hydraulic
action is transmitted by filtered oil under pressure from the engine lubricating system to an
auxiliary oil pump in the governor. The auxiliary pump develops the necessary oil pressure
to actuate the governor mechanism.
The isochronous governor holds an engine at zero droop at a constant speed, regardless of the
load, provided the load is within the unit capacity.
The hydraulically operated servomotor piston in the governor increases the fuel amount supplied
to the injectors, and the terminal lever return spring decreases it.
Cold engines require time to develop sufficient oil pressure to operate the governor and move the
injector control racks to the full-fuel position. Move the governor operating lever to the full-fuel
position to take injector rack control away from the governor and shorten the starting time. Move
the governor operating lever to the no-fuel position to stop the governor.
The hydraulic governor acts as an automatic shutdown device in the event of engine lubricating
oil pressure loss. Should the engine fail to supply oil to the governor, the servomotor piston will
drop, allowing the governor operating lever to return to the no-fuel position.

With the engine operating, oil from the engine lubricating system is admitted to the space around
the governor pump gears. The pump gears raise the oil pressure. The oil pressure is maintained in
the annular space between the undercut portion of the pilot valve plunger and the bore in the pilot
valve bushing. See Figure 2-212.

1. Check Valve 13. Droop Adjusting Bracket

2. Relief Valve 14. Terminal Shaft (Long)
3. Pilot Valve Plunger 15. Droop Adjusting Bolt
4. Receiving Compensating Land 16. Terminal Lever
5. Ball Head Assembly 17. Servomotor Piston
6. Flyweight 18. Compensating Needle Valve
7. Speeder Spring 19. Buffer Spring (Upper)
8. Maximum Speed Adjusting Screw 20. Buffer Piston
9. Speed Adjusting Shaft 21. Buffer Spring (Lower)
10. Speed Adjusting Lever 22. Pilot Valve Bushing
11. Terminal Lever Return Spring 23. Pilot Valve Control Land
12. Floating Lever
Figure 2-212 Stable Position of Governor When Load on Engine is Constant

The centrifugal force of the revolving flyweights opposes the speeder spring force for any given
throttle setting. When the two forces are equal, the control land on the pilot valve plunger covers
the lower ports in the pilot valve bushing.
Under these conditions, equal oil pressure is maintained on both sides of the buffer piston and
tension on the two buffer springs is equal. The oil pressure is equal on both sides of the receiving
compensating pilot valve plunger land due to oil passing through the compensating needle valve.
The hydraulic system is in balance and the engine speed remains constant.
Assuming a load increase is applied to the engine, the engine speed will momentarily drop,
and the governor flyweights will be forced inward, lowering the pilot valve plunger. Oil under
pressure will be admitted under the servomotor piston, causing it to rise. The servomotor piston's
upward motion will cause the engine fuel setting to increase. See Figure 2-213.



12. Floating Lever
Figure 2-213 Position of Governor Mechanism as Load Increases and Engine

Speed Tends to Decrease
The unequal oil pressure forces the buffer piston upward. The upward piston motion compresses
the upper buffer spring and relieves the pressure on the lower buffer spring.
The oil cavities above and below the buffer piston are common to the receiving compensating
pilot valve plunger land. Since the higher pressure is below the compensating land, the pilot valve
plunger is forced upward, re-centering the flyweights and causing the pilot valve control land to
close the regulating port. The servomotor piston's upward movement stops when it has moved far
enough to make the necessary fuel correction.
Oil passing through the compensating needle valve equalizes the pressure above and below the
buffer piston, allowing the piston to return to its center position, which equalizes the pressure
above and below the receiving compensating land. The pilot valve plunger moves to its central
position, and the engine speed returns to its original setting.
With a decrease in the load, the engine speed will momentarily increase and the flyweights will
move outward, raising the pilot valve plunger. This allows the oil below the buffer piston and
below the receiving compensating land to flow to the drain passage, reducing the pressure on the
lower side of the buffer piston and on the lower side of the receiving compensating land. This
allows the servo-piston to move downward, which causes the engine fuel setting to decrease.
See Figure 2-214.


12. Floating Lever
Figure 2-214 Position of Governor Mechanism as Load Decreases and Engine

Speed Tends to Increase

The governor moves instantaneously in response to a load change and makes the necessary fuel
adjustment to maintain the initial engine speed.
Governor movements occur through governor speed control lever movement and load changes.
Speed control lever movement causes the pilot valve plunger to raise or lower.
Oil passes up through a drilled passage in the pilot valve plunger and is directed at the thrust
bearing, from where the governor flyweights throw it onto the moving parts in the governor
housing. The governor pump gears, pilot valve plunger, servomotor piston, and buffer piston are
exposed to pressurized oil. Oil that collects on the governor housing floor passes through a drilled
passage into the governor drive housing, lubricating the governor drive and driven gears and
shafts and their bearings. Surplus oil returns to the engine crankcase through connecting drilled
passages in the blower end plate and cylinder block.
2.29.1 Repair or Replacement of PSG Hydraulic Governor
The PSG hydraulic governor is not a serviceable item. Refer to OEM guidelines or an authorized
Detroit Diesel distributor for service recommendations.
2.29.2 Removal of PSG Hydraulic Governor

1. Disconnect any linkage that may be attached to the governor speed control lever.
2. Drain the governor oil filter.
3. Disconnect the oil supply tube between the governor and the filter.
4. Remove the oil filter element, and clean the filter housing. Install a new filter element.
5. Disconnect the vertical link assembly from the governor operating lever.
6. Disconnect the wires to the synchronizing motor, if used.
NOTE:
Tag the wires to facilitate reassembly.
7. Remove the four bolts and lock washers that attach the governor to the governor drive
housing cover.
8. Lift the governor away from the drive housing. Remove the gasket.
2.29.3 Installation of PSG Hydraulic Governor

1. Place a new gasket on the governor drive housing.
2. Place the governor on the governor drive housing. Turn the ball head slightly, if necessary,
to align the pilot valve bushing splines with the driven shaft sleeve splines.

3. Secure the governor to the drive housing with four bolts and lock washers. Tighten the
bolts uniformly.
4. Install the oil supply tube.
5. Pour approximately one pint of engine oil in the governor to provide initial lubrication.
6. Attach a new governor cover gasket to the subcap.
7. If previously removed, install the speed adjusting lever stop on the underside of the
governor cover. Secure the lever stop to the cover with a locknut and copper washer.
8. Before installing the governor cover or connecting the governor linkage, perform a
complete engine tune-up. Refer to section 12.1.

2.30 HYDRAULIC GOVERNOR DRIVE
On 6V and 8V engines, a blower rotor, through a horizontal drive shaft and drive gear and an
integral vertical driven gear, drives the governor. See Figure 2-215. Each gear is mounted on
a ball bearing and is contained in a drive housing that also serves as the blower front cover.
See Figure 2-216 for 12V and 16V engines.
1. Drive Shaft 8. Bushing

2. Driven Gear 9. Seal Ring
3. Shaft 10. Flat Washer
4. Key 11. Snap Ring
5. Control Link Lever 12. Drive Gear
6. Lever Pin 13. Bearing
7. Driven Gear Sleeve 14. Drive Housing
Figure 2-215 Governor Drive Assembly (6V and 8V Engines)

1. Drive Shaft 9. Key

2. Driven Gear 10. Lower Governor Control Housing
3. Control Link Lever 11. Governor Drive Housing
4. Lever Pin 12. Drive Gear
5. Driven Gear Sleeve 13. Flat Washer
6. Bearings 14. Snap Rings
7. Oil Seals 15. Control Link Lever
8. Shafts
Figure 2-216 Governor Drive and Control Housing Assembly(12V and 16V
Engines)
The horizontal drive shaft splines engage the blower rotor shaft splines. The blower rotor shaft
provides the drive. Splines on the lower end of the governor ball head mesh with the splines in
the upper end of a vertical drive gear sleeve.

The fuel rod from each injector control tube is connected to a common control link lever, which is
enclosed in the governor drive housing. On 12V and 16V engines, the second rod is enclosed in
the governor control housing.
A vertical link attached to the control link lever and the governor operating lever connects the
governor to the fuel rods. See Figure 2-217.
1. Drive Gear 6. Governor Operating Lever

2. Driven Gear 7. Vertical Link
3. Driven Sleeve 8. Left-Bank Fuel Rod
4. Right-Bank Fuel Rod 9. Control Link Lever
5. Governor Drive Housing 10. Drive Shaft
Figure 2-217 Hydraulic Governor Drive

On 12V and 16V engines, a common lever and cap assembly connects the two control link lever
shafts. A vertical link, attached to the common lever and cap assembly and the governor terminal
operating lever, connects the variable speed hydraulic governor to the fuel rods.
Naturally aspirated engine drive assemblies include a reduction gear assembly.
Surplus oil from the governor, which spills over the moving parts, lubricates the governor drive
assembly gears and bearings. The oil returns to the engine crankcase through drilled passages
in the blower end plate and cylinder block.
The vertical link assembly rod end bearings are lubricated with grease through the fittings.
2.30.1 Repair or Replacement of Hydraulic Governor Drive

See Figure 2-218.

Figure 2-218 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Hydraulic Governor Drive
2.30.2 Removal of Hydraulic Governor Drive (6V and 8V Engines)
Remove the governor drive assembly on 6V and 8V engines as follows:

1. Disconnect the throttle control linkage to the governor speed control lever.

2. Remove the bolts and lock washers that attach the vertical link assembly to the governor
operating lever and the control link operating lever. Remove the link assembly.
3. If the engine is equipped with a governor oil reservoir, disconnect and remove the oil
inlet, outlet, and return tubes from the reservoir, governor, and drive housing. Remove
the oil reservoir from the drive housing.
4. If equipped with a governor operating solenoid, disconnect and remove the oil inlet and
outlet tubes from the solenoid, governor, and drive housing.
5. Tag and remove the electrical wires from the top of the solenoid. Remove the solenoid
from the drive housing.
6. If the governor is equipped with a synchronizing motor, tag and remove the electrical
wires from the motor terminals.
7. Remove the four bolts and lock washers securing the governor to the governor drive
housing.
8. Lift the governor from the drive housing cover, and remove the governor gasket.
9. Remove the housing cover and gasket.
11. Remove the water bypass tube between the two thermostat housings.
12. Disconnect and remove the fuel oil inlet and outlet pipes from the fuel pump.
13. Remove the fuel pump, gasket and drive coupling fork from the drive housing.
14. Remove the valve rocker covers. Refer to section 1.6.2.
15. Disconnect the fuel rods at the injector control tubes and the control link operating lever.
Withdraw the fuel rods.
16. Loosen the clamps, and slide the hoses onto the fuel rod cover tubes.
17. Remove the ten bolts, seven lock washers, and three copper washers securing the governor
drive housing to the blower end plate.
NOTICE:
Do not pry the housing off the dowels. This will damage the
finished surfaces.
18. Tap the edge of the housing lightly with a plastic hammer to loosen it. Remove the
housing from the dowels. Remove the housing gasket.
2.30.3 Removal of Hydraulic Governor Drive (12V and 16V Engines)
Remove the hydraulic governor drive on 12V and 16V engines as follows:
1. Disconnect the throttle control linkage to the governor speed control lever.

2. Remove the air inlet pipe between the air cleaner, or turbocharger, and the air shutdown
3. Remove the air shutdown housing from the blower, and cover the top of the blower to
prevent foreign materials from entering.
4. If a battery-charging alternator is attached to the top of the flywheel housing, tag and
disconnect the electrical wires from the alternator. Remove the alternator.
5. Disconnect and remove the fuel oil inlet and outlet pipes from the fuel oil pump.
6. Disconnect and remove the oil inlet, outlet, and return tubes from the oil reservoir,
governor, and drive housing. Remove the oil reservoir from the drive housing.
7. Disconnect and remove the oil inlet and outlet tubes from the governor operating solenoid.
Remove the solenoid from the drive housing.
8. Disconnect and remove the vertical link assembly from the governor control link common
lever and cap assembly and the governor operating lever.
9. Remove the four bolts and lock washers securing the governor to the governor drive
housing. Lift the governor from the drive housing cover. Remove the governor gasket.
10. Remove the bolts and lock washers securing the governor control link common lever and
cap assembly to the control link lever shafts between the drive housing and the lower
governor control housing.
11. Remove the valve rocker covers from the rear of the engine.
12. Remove the governor drive housing cover and gasket from the top of the drive housing.
13. Disconnect the fuel rods at the injector control tube levers and the control link lever inside
the governor drive housing. Withdraw the fuel rods.
14. Loosen the fuel rod hose clamps, and slide the hoses onto the fuel rod cover tubes in
the drive housing.
15. Disconnect the blower oil pressure tube from the fitting in the blower drive support.
Slide the tube into the blower end plate.
16. Loosen the hose clamp on the blower drive support to blower seal.
17. Remove the flywheel housing cover in back of the blower drive support.
18. Remove the snap ring from the blower drive flexible coupling, and pull the blower drive
shaft from the blower drive coupling.
19. Disconnect the tachometer drive cable, if used, from the drive adaptor. Remove the
drive adaptor.
20. Remove the bolt and washer through the top of each blower end plate.
21. Remove the six remaining bolts and lugs securing the blower housing to the cylinder block.

FALLING COMPONENT
NOTICE:
22. Thread eyebolts in the diagonally opposite tapped holes in the top of the blower housing.
Attach a rope sling and chain hoist to the eyebolts so the blower may be lifted at an angle.
23. Lift the blower assembly, front end first, at an angle to clear the front blower. Move the
blower forward and away from the engine, and place it on a bench.
24. Remove the three bolt and seal assemblies securing the fuel pump to the governor drive
housing.
25. Remove the fuel pump, gasket and drive coupling fork from the drive housing.
26. Remove the ten bolts, seven lock washers, and three copper washers securing the governor
drive housing to the blower end plate.
NOTE:
Do not pry the housing off the dowels. This will damage the finished surfaces.
27. Tap the edge of the housing lightly with a plastic hammer to loosen it. Remove the
housing from the dowels. Remove the housing gasket.
NOTE:
The cover must be removed from the governor control housing in order to disconnect the
fuel rods from the control link lever in the housing.
28. If necessary, the governor control housing may be removed from the engine front blower.
2.30.4 Disassembly of Hydraulic Governor Drive (6V and 8V Engines)
Disassemble the hydraulic governor drive as follows:

1. Loosen the bolt securing the control link shaft lever to the shaft.
2. Remove the lever and key from the shaft.
3. Remove the snap ring and flat washer that retains the control link lever and shaft assembly
in the drive housing.
4. Pull the lever and shaft assembly from the housing.

5. Remove the small flat washer and seal ring from the bushing bore in the housing.
6. Remove the snap ring securing the governor driven gear bearing in the drive housing.
See Figure 2-219. Pull the driven gear, bearing, and driven gear sleeve from the bore
in the housing.
1. Bolt (6) 14. Snap Ring (2)

2. Lock Washer (8) 15. Bearing (2)
3. End Bearing (2) 16. Driven Gear
4. Locknut 17. Lever
5. Link 18. Pins (2)
6. Screw (2) 19. Washers (4)
7. Right-Hand Fuel Rod 20. Drive Shaft
8. Gasket (4) 21. Left-Hand Fuel Rod
9. Cover (3) 22. Governor Housing
10. Hose (2) 23. Seal Ring

11. Clamp (2) 24. Flat Washer

12. Tube 25. Bushing
13. Sleeve 26. Drive Gear
Figure 2-219 Hydraulic Governor Drive (6V and 8V Engine)
7. Remove the governor driven gear sleeve and bearing from the driven gear as follows:
[a] Place the drive ring remover J 4685 between the driven gear and the bearing, with the
beveled side of the remover facing the gear.
[b] Support the driven gear assembly and remover on an arbor press bed. See Figure
2-220.
1. Bearing 3. Driven Gear

2. Driven Sleeve
Figure 2-220 Removing Driven Sleeve and Bearing from Driven Gear
[c] Place a brass rod inside the sleeve against the end of the driven gear. Press the driven
gear from the sleeve and bearing. Catch the driven gear by hand when pressed
from the bearing.
8. Pull the governor drive gear, drive shaft, and bearing assembly straight out of the housing
bore.
Remove the governor drive gear shaft bearing and drive gear from the drive shaft as follows:
1. Place the split bearing remover J 4685 between the drive gear and the bearing, with the
beveled side of the remover facing the gear.

2. Support the drive gear assembly and remover on an arbor press bed. See Figure 2-221.
1. Drive Shaft 2. Bearing
Figure 2-221 Removing Bearing from Drive Gear
3. Place a brass rod on the end of the drive shaft. Press the drive gear and shaft assembly
from the bearing. Catch the drive gear and shaft by hand when pressed from the bearing.

4. Place two split brass plates beneath the drive gear teeth, and support the assembly on an
arbor press bed. See Figure 2-222.
1. Drive Shaft 2. Drive Gear
Figure 2-222 Removing Drive Gear from Drive Shaft
5. Place a brass rod on the drive shaft end, and press the drive shaft from the drive gear.
2.30.5 Disassembly of Hydraulic Governor Drive (12V and 16V Engines)
See Figure 2-223, and disassemble the governor drive assembly as follows:

1. Key 12. Sleeve

2. Snap Ring 13. Driven Gear
3. Washer 14. Lever
4. Oil Seal 15. Pin
5. Bearing 16. Drive Shaft
6. Right-Hand Fuel Rod 17. Left-Hand Fuel Rod
8. Cover 19. Bolt
9. Hose 20. Governor Housing
10. Clamp 21. Screw
11. Tube 22. Drive Gear
Figure 2-223 Enclosed Linkage Type Hydraulic Governor Drive(12V and 16V
Engines)

1. Remove the Woodruff key from the governor control link lever shaft keyway.
2. Remove the snap ring and flat washer that retains the control link lever, shaft, and bearing
assembly in the drive housing. Remove the lever, shaft, and bearing assembly from the
housing.
NOTE:
The two governor control link lever, shaft, and bearing assemblies in the governor drive
housing and governor control housing are identical, except for the location of the keyway
in the outer end of the shaft. If both control link lever, shaft, and bearing assemblies are
to be removed, tag one or both of the lever assemblies so they may be installed in
their respective housings.
3. If necessary, remove the control link lever shaft bearing from the shaft as follows:
[a] Support the inner end of the control link lever on a sleeve on an arbor press bed.
Press the shaft approximately 1/4 in. out of the lower end of the lever.
[b] Support the opposite end of the lever, next to the bearing, on an arbor press bed.
NOTE:
Do not put the support under the bearing.
[c] Press the shaft in flush with the lever end.
NOTE:
This will leave approximately 1/4 in. space between the bearing and the lever.

[d] Place two split plates between the bearing and the lever. Support the split plates,
lever, shaft, and bearing assembly on an arbor press bed. See Figure 2-224.
1. Control Link Lever 3. Bearing

2. Shaft 4. Split Plates
Figure 2-224 Removing Bearing from Control Link Lever Shaft
[e] Press the shaft from the bearing.
NOTE:
The hole in the split plates should be the same diameter as the shaft so the inner race of
the bearing will rest on the plates when in place.
[f] If necessary, the control link lever shaft may be pressed from the control link lever.
4. Inspect the control link lever shaft oil seal for wear and damage.
If necessary, the oil seal may be replaced in the governor drive housing without removing the
drive and driven gear assemblies. Replace the oil seal as follows:
1. Support the inner face of the drive housing on two wood blocks approximately 2 in.
thick. Place a short piece of 3/4 in. round bar stock on top of the oil seal, and tap it out
of the housing with a hammer.
2. Apply a thin coat of sealing compound to the outside diameter of the new oil seal casing.
Start the oil seal with the seal lip facing down, straight into the bore in the housing.
3. Support the drive housing inner face on two wood blocks on an arbor press bed.

4. Place the 3/4 in. round bar stock on top of the oil seal and under the press ram. Press the
oil seal into the housing until it is 8.64 mm (0.340 in.) below the outer face of the housing.
Continue disassembly as follows:
1. Remove the snap ring securing the governor driven gear bearing in the drive housing. Pull
the driven gear, bearing, and driven gear sleeve from the bore in the housing.
2. Remove the governor driven gear sleeve and bearing from the driven gear as follows:
[a] Place the split bearing remover J 4685 between the driven gear and the bearing, with
the beveled side of the remover facing the gear.
[b] Support the driven gear assembly and remover on the bed of an arbor press.
See Figure 2-225.

2. Driven Sleeve
Figure 2-225 Removing Driven Sleeve and Bearing from Driven Gear
[c] Place a brass rod inside the sleeve, against the end of the driven gear, and press
the driven gear from the sleeve and bearing. Catch the driven gear by hand when
pressed from the bearing.
3. Pull the governor drive gear, drive shaft, and bearing assembly straight out of the housing
bore.
4. Remove the governor drive shaft bearing and drive gear from the drive shaft as follows:
[a] Place the split bearing remover J 4685 between the drive gear and the bearing, with
the beveled side of the remover facing the gear.

[b] Support the drive gear assembly and remover on an arbor press bed. See Figure 2-226.
Figure 2-226 Removing Bearing from Drive Gear
[c] Place a brass rod on the drive shaft end. Press the drive gear and shaft assembly from
the bearing. Catch the drive gear and shaft by hand when pressed from the bearing.

[d] Place two split brass plates beneath the drive gear teeth. Support the assembly on
an arbor press bed. See Figure 2-227.
1. Drive Shaft 2. Drive Gear
Figure 2-227 Removing Drive Gear from Drive Shaft
[e] Place a brass rod on the end of the drive shaft. Press the drive shaft from the drive
gear. Catch the drive shaft by hand when pressed from the drive gear.
If necessary, the governor control link lever assembly and oil seal may be removed from the
governor control housing and the bearing removed from the control link lever shaft as follows:
1. Remove the Woodruff key from the governor control link lever shaft keyway.
2. Remove the snap ring and flat washer that retains the control link lever, shaft, and bearing
assembly in the drive housing. Remove the lever, shaft, and bearing assembly from the
housing.
NOTE:
The two governor control link lever, shaft, and bearing assemblies in the governor drive
housing and governor control housing are identical, except for the location of the keyway
in the outer end of the shaft. If both control link lever, shaft, and bearing assemblies are
to be removed, tag one or both of the lever assemblies so they may be installed in
their respective housings.
3. If necessary, remove the control link lever shaft bearing from the shaft as follows:
[a] Support the inner end of the control link lever on a sleeve on an arbor press bed.
Press the shaft approximately 1/4 in. out of the lower end of the lever.

[b] Support the opposite end of the lever, next to the bearing, on an arbor press bed. Do
not put the support under the bearing. Press the shaft in flush with the lever end. This
will leave approximately 1/4 in. space between the bearing and the lever.
[c] Place two split plates between the bearing and the lever. Support the split plates,
lever, shaft, and bearing assembly on an arbor press bed. See Figure 2-228. Press the
shaft from the bearing.
1. Control Link Lever 3. Bearing

2. Shaft 4. Split Plates
Figure 2-228 Removing Bearing from Control Link Lever Shaft
NOTE:
The hole in the split plates should be the same diameter as the shaft so the inner race of
the bearing will rest on the plates when in place.
[d] If necessary, the control link lever shaft may be pressed from the control link lever.
4. Inspect the control link lever shaft oil seal for wear and damage.
If necessary, the oil seal may be replaced in the governor drive housing without removing the
drive and driven gear assemblies. Replace the oil seal as follows:
1. Support the inner face of the drive housing on two wood blocks approximately 2 in.
thick. Place a short piece of 3/4 in. round bar stock on top of the oil seal, and tap it out
of the housing with a hammer.
2. Apply a thin coat of sealing compound to the outside diameter of the new oil seal casing.
Start the oil seal with the seal lip facing down, straight into the bore in the housing.

3. Support the drive housing inner face on two wood blocks on an arbor press bed.
4. Place the 3/4 in. round bar stock on top of the oil seal and under the press ram. Press the
oil seal into the housing until it is 8.64 mm (0.340 in.) below the outer face of the housing.
2.30.5.1 Cleaning of Hydraulic Governor Drive
Clean the hydraulic governor drive as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Wash all parts in clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
2.30.5.2 Inspection of Hydraulic Governor Drive
Inspect the hydraulic governor drive as follows:

1. Inspect the teeth of the drive and driven bevel gears for chipping, scoring, or wear.
NOTE:
There must be approximately 0.025-0.076 mm. (0.001-0.003 in.) clearance between the
governor drive and driven gears.
[a] Remove any slight score marks with a stone.

[b] If the teeth are severely scored, chipped, or worn, replace the gears. Refer to section
2.30.6.
[c] If not worn, scored, or chipped, continue inspection.

2. Visually inspect the drive shaft and the driven shaft sleeve for worn splines. Check the
mating parts for wear.
NOTE:
When replacing the governor drive shaft sleeve on an engine with an EGB or LSG
governor built prior to January 1971, the governor drive coupling must be removed. The
current governor drive shaft sleeve is 32.766 mm (1.290 in.) longer than the former
sleeve to offset the drive coupling.
[a] If worn, replace the drive shaft and driven shaft sleeve. Refer to section 2.30.6.
3. Visually inspect each ball bearing for corrosion or pitting.
[a] If corroded or pitted, replace the bearing. Refer to section 2.30.6.
[b] If not corroded or pitted, proceed with inspection.
USED ENGINE OIL

4. Lubricate the bearing with light engine oil. While holding the inner race, revolve the outer
race slowly by hand, checking for rough spots.
[a] If there are any rough spots, replace the bearing. Refer to section 2.30.6.
5. Visually inspect the control link operating shaft and its governor drive housing bushing
for wear.
[a] If worn, replace the bushing or control link operating shaft. Refer to section 2.30.6.
NOTE:
If a new bushing is installed, press it in the drive housing to 3.556–3.683 mm
(0.140–0.145 in.) below the outside face of the housing.
[b] If not worn, proceed with inspection.

6. Visually inspect the fuel rod cover hoses for damage.
[a] If damaged, replace the fuel rod cover hoses. Refer to section 2.30.8.
[b] If not damaged, proceed with inspection.
7. Visually inspect the fuel rod pins in the control link lever for wear and scoring.
[a] If worn or scored, replace the fuel rod pins. Refer to section 2.30.8.
[b] If not worn or scored, reuse the parts.

2.30.6 Assembly of Hydraulic Governor Drive (6V and 8V Engines)
Install the governor drive shaft bearing and drive gear on the drive shaft as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lubricate the drive shaft bearing with engine oil, and start the bearing, numbered side
up, straight on the end of the drive gear.
2. Place the beveled end of the drive gear on the bearing installer J 21068, and place the
assembly on an arbor press bed. See Figure 2-229.
1. Bearing 2. Drive Gear
Figure 2-229 Installing Bearing on Drive Gear
3. Place a sleeve on the bearing inner race, and press the bearing tightly against the drive
gear shoulder.

USED ENGINE OIL

4. Lubricate the small end of the governor drive shaft with engine oil.
5. Start the drive gear straight on the shaft with the gear teeth facing the splined end of
the shaft.
6. Place the drive shaft, gear and bearing assembly on an arbor press bed, bearing and gear
end up. See Figure 2-230.

2. Drive Gear
Figure 2-230 Installing Drive Gear and Bearing on Drive Shaft
7. Place a sleeve or a round brass bar on the bearing inner race.

8. Press the drive gear tightly against the shaft shoulder.

USED ENGINE OIL

9. Lubricate the governor drive shaft bearing with engine oil. Insert the drive shaft, drive
gear, and bearing assembly straight into the bearing bore in the drive housing.
Install the governor driven gear bearing and sleeve on the driven gear as follows:
1. Lubricate the driven gear bearing with engine oil. Start the bearing, numbered end up,
straight on the driven gear.
2. Lubricate the inside diameter of the driven gear sleeve with engine oil. Start the sleeve,
splined end up, straight on the end of the driven gear.
3. Place the driven gear, bearing, and sleeve assembly on an arbor press bed, with a spacer
under the gear to support the gear teeth above the press bed. See Figure 2-231.

2. Driven Sleeve
Figure 2-231 Installing Bearing and Driven Sleeve on Driven Gear
4. Press the sleeve and bearing tightly against the driven gear shoulder.

USED ENGINE OIL


1. Lubricate the driven gear bearing with engine oil. Insert the driven gear, bearing, and
sleeve assembly through the top of the drive housing.
2. Start the bearing straight into the bearing bore in the housing. Push the driven gear
assembly into the housing until the driven gear teeth mesh with the drive gear and the
bearing rests on the housing shoulder.
NOTE:
If necessary, rotate one of the gears slightly to align the gear teeth.
3. Install the snap ring in the housing groove next to the bearing.
4. Rotate the drive and driven gears, and check for freedom and clearance between the gear
teeth. The clearance should be 0.0254-0.0762 mm (0.001-0.003 in.).
Install the governor control link lever and shaft assembly in the drive housing as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lubricate the control link lever shaft with engine oil, and slide the shaft through the
bushing from the inner side of the housing.
2. Place a new seal ring over the shaft, and slide it into the housing against the bushing.
3. Place the small flat washer over the shaft, and slide it against the seal ring.
4. Place the large flat washer over the shaft, and slide it against the housing. Install the
snap ring in the groove in the shaft.
5. Install the Woodruff key in the shaft keyway.
6. Slide the control link shaft lever over the shaft and key. Secure it with a bolt and lock
washer.
2.30.7 Assembly of Hydraulic Governor Drive (12V and 16V Engines)
See Figure 2-232. Assemble the hydraulic governor drive on 12V and 16V engines as follows:

1. Key 12. Sleeve

2. Snap Ring 13. Driven Gear
3. Washer 14. Lever
4. Oil Seal 15. Pin
5. Bearing 16. Drive Shaft
6. Right-Hand Fuel Rod 17. Left-Hand Fuel Rod
8. Cover 19. Bolt
9. Hose 20. Governor Housing
10. Clamp 21. Screw
11. Tube 22. Drive Gear
Figure 2-232 Enclosed Linkage Type Hydraulic Governor Drive(12V and 16V
Engines)

USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lubricate the drive shaft bearing with engine oil. Start the bearing, numbered side up,
straight on the end of the drive gear.
2. Place the beveled end of the drive gear on the bearing installer J 21068. Place the assembly
on an arbor press bed. See Figure 2-233.
1. Bearing 2. Drive Gear
Figure 2-233 Installing Bearing on Drive Gear
3. Place a sleeve on the bearing inner race, and press the bearing tightly against the drive
gear shoulder.

USED ENGINE OIL

4. Lubricate the small end of the governor drive shaft with engine oil.
5. Start the drive gear straight on the shaft, gear teeth facing the splined end of the shaft.
6. Place the drive shaft, gear, and bearing assembly on an arbor press bed, bearing and
gear end up. See Figure 2-234.

2. Drive Gear
Figure 2-234 Installing Drive Gear and Bearing on Drive Shaft
7. Place a sleeve or a brass rod on the bearing inner race. Press the drive gear tightly against
the shaft shoulder.

USED ENGINE OIL

8. Lubricate the governor drive shaft bearing with engine oil. Insert the drive shaft, drive
gear, and bearing assembly straight into the drive housing bearing bore.
Install the governor driven gear bearing and sleeve on the driven gear as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lubricate the driven gear bearing with engine oil, and start the bearing, numbered side
up, straight on the driven gear.
2. Lubricate the inside diameter of the driven gear sleeve with engine oil. Start the sleeve,
splined end up, straight on the end of the driven gear.

3. Place the driven gear, bearing, and sleeve assembly on an arbor press bed, with a spacer
under the gear. See Figure 2-235. Press the sleeve and bearing tightly against the driven
gear shoulder.

2. Driven Sleeve
Figure 2-235 Installing Bearing and Driven Sleeve on Driven Gear
USED ENGINE OIL

4. Lubricate the driven gear bearing with engine oil, and insert the driven gear, bearing, and
sleeve assembly through the top of the drive housing.
5. Start the bearing straight into the bearing bore in the housing. Push the driven gear
assembly down in the housing until the driven gear teeth mesh with the drive gear and
the bearing rests on the housing shoulder.
NOTE:
If necessary, rotate one of the gears slightly to align the gear teeth.
6. Install the snap ring in the housing groove next to the bearing.

7. Rotate the drive and driven gears, and check for freedom and clearance between the
gear teeth.
NOTE:
The clearance should be 0.025-0.076 mm (0.001-0.003 in.).
USED ENGINE OIL

8. If removed, install the governor control link lever shaft spherical bearing on the shaft
as follows:
[a] Lubricate the control link lever shaft bearing with engine oil. Start the bearing
straight on the control link lever shaft.
[b] Support the control link lever, shaft, and bearing assembly on an arbor press bed,
with a spacer under the control link lever and shaft. See Figure 2-236.
1. Support 4. Bearing
2. Shaft 5. Control Link Lever
3. Sleeve
Figure 2-236 Installing Bearing on Governor Control Link Lever Shaft

[c] Place a sleeve on top of the bearing inner race, and press the bearing tightly against
the control link lever.
USED ENGINE OIL

9. Lubricate the control link lever shaft bearing with engine oil. Start the control link lever,
shaft and bearing assembly straight into the bore in the drive housing. Push the assembly
in until the bearing is tight against the housing shoulder.
NOTE:
Ensure proper control link lever, shaft, and bearing assembly in the governor drive
housing is installed. When the control link lever, shaft, and bearing assemblies are
correctly installed, the keyway in the outer end of each shaft will face the right-hand side
of the engine, as viewed from the rear, when the blower assemblies are attached to
the cylinder block.
Install the governor control link lever shaft oil seal in the governor drive housing as follows:
1. Wrap a thin layer of cellulose tape over the snap ring groove and keyway in the outer end
of the control link lever shaft to protect the oil seal lip.

2. Support the governor drive housing on an arbor press bed, with a spacer under the end of
the control link lever to prevent the bearing from slipping out of the housing. See Figure
2-237.
1. Housing 4. Control Link Lever

2. Sleeve 5. Support
3. Oil Seal
Figure 2-237 Installing Control Link Lever Shaft Oil Seal in Governor Drive
3. Apply a thin coat of sealing compound on the outside diameter of the new oil seal casing.
Place the oil seal, with the seal lip facing down, over the end of the shaft. Start it straight
into the bore in the housing. Be careful not to damage the oil seal lip.
4. Place a 23/32 in. outside diameter sleeve over the shaft end and rest it on top of the seal.
Press the oil seal into the housing until it is 8.636 mm (0.340 in.) below the outer face
of the housing.
5. Remove the tape from the shaft, and place the flat washer over the shaft against the
housing.
6. Install the snap ring in the shaft groove. Install the Woodruff key in the keyway in the shaft.
2.30.8 Installation of Hydraulic Governor Drive (6V and 8V Engine)
Install the governor drive on 6V and 8V engines as follows:

1. Attach the governor drive to the blower.

2. Place a fuel rod cover hose and clamp on each fuel rod tube in the drive housing. Tighten
the hose clamps.
3. Affix a new gasket to the blower end plate.
4. Align the governor drive shaft splines with the blower rotor shaft.
5. Insert the drive shaft into the rotor shaft. Slide the drive housing on the dowels and
against the gasket.
6. Install the ten bolts, seven lock washers, and three copper washers that secure the drive
housing to the blower end plates. Tighten the bolts to 18-33 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
The three copper washers are used on the three long bolts that are exposed to the oil
inside the drive housing.
7. Insert the fuel rods through the opening in the top of the drive housing. Connect them to
the injector control tube levers and to the control link lever inside the housing.
8. Loosen the fuel rod cover hose clamps, and slide the hoses on the covers and tubes.
Attach the fuel pump assembly to the governor drive housing as follows:
1. Affix a new gasket to the fuel pump body bolting flange.
2. Place the fuel pump drive coupling fork over the square on the pump drive shaft end.
3. Align the drive coupling fork ends with the drive coupling disc slots.
4. Place the fuel pump against the governor drive housing.
NOTE:
Ensure drive coupling fork prongs are in the drive disc slots before installing and
tightening the attaching bolts.
5. Install the three bolt and seal assemblies, and tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft)
torque.
1. Connect the fuel oil inlet and outlet pipes to the fuel pump.
2. Affix a new gasket to the top face of the governor drive housing.
3. Place the housing cover on top of the gasket with the governor opening in the cover over
the governor driven gear sleeve.
4. Install two bolts and lock washers in the end holes. Do not tighten the bolts.
Attach the governor assembly to the drive housing as follows:
1. Affix a new governor gasket to the top face of the housing cover.
2. Position the governor assembly over the governor drive housing, with the governor
operating lever side of the governor facing the front end of the engine.

3. Align the ball head shaft splines with the driven gear sleeve splines.
4. Start the ball head shaft straight into the sleeve, and lower it against the gasket on the cover.
5. Install the four bolts and lock washers securing the governor to the drive housing. Tighten
the four governor bolts and the two housing cover bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
6. Connect the vertical link assembly to the governor operating lever and the control link
lever.
1. If the governor is equipped with a synchronizing motor, connect the electrical wires to
the motor terminals.
2. If a governor operating solenoid is used, attach the solenoid to the drive housing.
3. Connect the oil inlet and outlet tubes to the solenoid, governor, and drive housing.
4. Connect the electrical wires to the solenoid terminals.
5. If an oil reservoir is used, attach the reservoir to the drive housing. Connect the oil inlet,
outlet, and return tubes to the oil reservoir, governor, and drive housing.
6. Connect the throttle control linkage to the speed control lever.
7. Lubricate the governor control linkage end bearings with grease through the fittings.
8. If drained, refill the cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.
2.30.9 Installation of Hydraulic Governor Drive (12V and 16V Engines)
Install the hydraulic governor drive on 12V and 16V engines as follows:
1. Affix a new gasket to the rear blower front end plate.
2. Align the governor drive shaft splines with the blower rotor shaft, and insert the drive shaft
into the rotor shaft. Slide the drive housing on the dowels.
3. Install the ten bolts, seven lock washers, and three copper washers that secure the drive
housing to the blower end plate. Tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
The three copper washers are used on the three long bolts which are exposed to the oil
inside the drive housing.
4. Perform the following s to attach the fuel pump assembly to the governor drive housing.
[a] Affix a new gasket to the fuel pump body bolting flange.
[b] Place the fuel pump drive coupling fork over the square on the pump drive shaft end.

[c] Align the drive coupling fork ends with the drive coupling disc slots. Place the fuel
pump against the governor drive housing with the openings in the fuel pump inlet and
outlet elbows facing up.
NOTE:
Ensure drive coupling fork prongs are in the drive disc slots before installing and
tightening the attached bolts.
[d] Install the three bolt and seal assemblies. Tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft)
torque.
5. Place a hose and clamp on each of the fuel rod tubes in the governor drive housing.
Tighten the clamp screws.
6. Affix a new blower housing gasket to the top of the cylinder block. Use a good grade,
non-hardening cement to prevent the gasket from shifting when the blower is installed.
FALLING COMPONENT
NOTICE:
8. Lift the blower assembly, front end first, at an angle, and position it over the top of the
cylinder block.
9. Lower the blower, and start the blower seal on the rear blower end plate cover over the
blower drive support. Move the blower back, and lower it against the gasket on the
cylinder block.

FALLING COMPONENT
NOTICE:
10. Secure the blower to the cylinder block with bolts, retaining lugs, and flat washers.
Uniformly tighten the blower side angle bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft) torque in
7 N·m (5 lb·ft) increments. Tighten the blower-to-block end plate bolts to 54-61 N·m
11. Attach the tachometer drive adaptor, if used, to the blower. Connect the tachometer drive
cable to the drive adaptor.
12. Insert the blower drive shaft through the blower drive flexible coupling and into the blower
drive coupling. Install the snap ring in blower drive flexible coupling.
13. Affix a new gasket to the flywheel housing cover. Attach the cover to the flywheel housing
with bolts and lock washers.
14. Place the lower seal clamp in position on the seal. Tighten the clamp screw.
15. Slide the blower oil pressure tube out of the blower, and connect it to the fitting in the
blower drive support.
16. Insert the fuel rods through the opening in the top of the drive housing. Connect them to
their injector control tube levers and to the drive housing control link lever.
17. Loosen the fuel rod cover hose clamps. Slide the hoses onto the covers and tubes, and
tighten the hose clamps.
18. Place the governor control link lever and cap assembly over the governor control link
lever shaft and key. Secure it with bolts and lock washers.
19. Affix a new gasket to the top of the governor drive housing. Place the housing cover on
top of the gasket with the governor opening in the driven gear sleeve cover.
20. Install two bolts and lock washers in the end holes, opposite the governor opening. Do
not tighten the bolts.
21. Affix a new governor gasket to the top face of the drive housing cover.
22. Position the governor assembly over the governor drive housing with the terminal lever
shaft side of the governor facing the engine front blower.
23. Align the ball head shaft splines straight into the sleeve, and lower it against the gasket
on the cover.

24. Install the four bolts and lock washers that secure the governor assembly to the drive
housing cover. Tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
25. If removed, install the governor operating lever on the terminal lever shaft. Connect the
vertical control link assembly to the operating lever and the governor control link common
lever and cap assembly.
26. Attach the governor operating solenoid to the governor drive housing, and connect the
electrical wires to the solenoid terminals.
27. Connect the oil inlet and outlet tubes to the governor operating solenoid, governor, and
drive housing.
28. Attach the governor oil reservoir to the governor drive housing. Connect the oil inlet,
outlet, and return tubes to the oil reservoir, governor, and drive housing.
29. Connect the fuel oil inlet and outlet pipes to the fuel oil pump.
30. Attach the battery charging alternator to the engine flywheel housing. Connect the
electrical wires to the alternator.
31. Attach the air shutdown housing to the top of the blower.
32. On industrial units, install the air inlet pipe between the air cleaner, or turbocharger, and
the air shutdown housing on the rear blower.
33. On marine units, install the air inlet pipe between the air cleaner and the air shutdown
34. Connect the throttle control linkage to the governor speed control lever.
NOTE:
Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION before installing a Barber-Coleman
electronic governor on an engine previously equipped with a hydraulic governor.

2.31 HYDRAULIC GOVERNOR SYNCHRONIZING MOTOR
Some hydraulic governors are equipped with a reversible electric synchronizing motor mounted
on the governor cover. See Figure 2-238. This motor, used in place of a vernier control knob,
permits close engine speed adjustment from a remote control point. This feature is especially
valuable when synchronizing two generators from a central control panel.
1. Max. Speed Adjustment Screw 6. New Woodward Motor

2. Load Limit Adjustment Screw 7. Compensation Needle Valve
3. Min. Droop Setting Screw 8. Max. Droop Setting Screw
4. Friction Drive 9. Droop Adjustment Knob
5. Former Bodine Motor
Figure 2-238 Former and Current Synchronizing Motors on Woodward

Hydraulic Governors

The motor is connected to the source of electrical supply through a two-way switch. See Figure
2-239.
Figure 2-239 Synchronizing Motor Wiring Schematic
The motor drive shaft and the governor speed adjusting lever are mechanically connected through
a reduction gear on the motor and a friction drive.
The synchronizing motor is used to change the engine speed when the unit is running alone or to
adjust the load when the unit is operating in tandem with other units.
When the two-way control switch on the control panel is closed, the reduction gear and friction
drive enables the motor shaft to turn the governor speed adjusting shaft. The rotational direction
depends on the switch position. When the desired engine speed is indicated on a tachometer or
frequency meter, the operator returns the switch to the off position.
If the switch is held in the lower speed position too long, the synchronizing motor will continue to
lower the engine speed until it shuts the engine down. If the switch is held too long in the raise
speed position, the motor will turn the governor speed adjusting shaft until it strikes the maximum
speed adjusting screw. The friction drive will slip and the motor will continue to run at a slightly
reduced speed without further effect.
If the motor is damaged or fails to operate, the entire motor should be replaced.
The friction drive spring washer must be strong enough to permit the motor to carry the speed
adjusting lever up against the maximum speed adjusting screw without slipping, and it must be
loose enough to slip after the lever contacts the screw.
Conversion kits with new extended life Woodward synchronizing motors have been released to
replace the Bodine motors formerly used on Woodward SG and PSG hydraulic governors.

The new motors differ from the former in that they are permanent magnet speed setting motors.
The former Bodines were field wound motors. The new motors are mounted vertically on the
governor covers and connected to the governor speed adjusting shafts through a short gear train.
The Bodine motors were mounted horizontally on the governor covers and used a 90 degree offset
drive connected to the speed adjusting shaft.
The current Woodward motors and kits completely replace the former Bodine motors, and only
the new parts will be serviced.
2.31.1 Repair or Replacement of Hydraulic Governor Synchronizing

Motor
For motor or converter replacement, contact an authorized Detroit Diesel parts distributor. For
motor components or repair, contact an authorized Woodward Governor sales or service outlet or
the Woodward Company at the address below.
Contact: Woodward Governor Company 1000 East Drake Road P.O. Box 1519, Fort Collins,
CO 80522-9990

2.32 ELECTRONIC GOVERNOR
Barber-Colman® Dyna 8000 and 8400 electronic governors are available on certain Detroit
Diesel engines.
These 24-volt, all electric, constant speed governors have high reliability due to their few moving
parts. This makes them suitable for applications such as power generator sets, where only
minimal engine RPM. fluctuation can be tolerated. The governors are factory lubricated and
sealed and require no special maintenance.
The new governors and their model applications are listed in Table 2-9.
Governor Number Model Usage Model Usage

23502462 1033-7005 1043-7000
Dyna 8000 1043-7005 1043-7305
1063-7005 1063-7305
23502463 7083-7005 7083-7305
(Dyna 8000) 7123-7005 7123-7305
7123-7400 7123-7405
7163-7305 8063-7305
8063-7400 8063-7405
8063-7416 8083-7000
8083-7305 8083-7400
8083-7405 8083-7416
23502464 7163-7305 8123-7305
(Dyna 8400) 8123-7405 8123-7416
8163-7305 8163-7405
8163-7416
Table 2-9 Governor Model Parts List
For proper set up and adjustment, refer to the Barber-Colman Dyna 8000 and 8400 manual.
2.32.1 Repair or Replacement of Electronic Governor
Refer to the Original Equipment Manufacturer for service procedure.

Barber-Colman electronic governors are sold only as assemblies. For component parts or service,
contact an authorized Barber-Colman service outlet or the manufacturer:
Barber-Colman Company Precision Dynamics Division 1354 Clifford Avenue Loves Park, IL
61132-2940, Phone: (815) 877-0241

2.33 FUEL INJECTOR CONTROL TUBE (NON-DDEC ENGINES)
The fuel injector control tube assemblies are mounted on the left and right-bank cylinder heads
of an engine. They consist of a control tube, injector rack control levers, a return spring, and
an injector control tube lever mounted in two bracket and bearing assemblies attached to each
cylinder head. See Figure 2-240.
1. Rack Levers 8. Fuel Rods

2. Adjusting Screws 9. Cotter Pins
3. Return Spring 10. Control Tube Assembly
4. Bracket 11. Bolt
5. Control Lever 12. Lock Washer
6. Pin 13. Control Tube
7. Fuel Rod Pin 14. Spacer
Figure 2-240 Injector Control Tube Assemblies (Non-Spring Loaded)

The injector rack control levers connect to the fuel injector control racks. They are held in position
on the control tube with two adjusting screws. The return spring enables the rack levers to return
to the no-fuel position. The injector control tube lever is pinned to the end of the control tube and
connects to the fuel rod. Refer to section 12.4 for the injector rack control lever positions.
Certain engines use similar spring-loaded injector control tube assemblies similar to the above,
except for a yield spring at each injector rack control lever and only one screw and locknut to keep
each injector rack properly positioned. See Figure 2-241. This enables an engine to be brought to
a lesser fuel position if there is an inoperative fuel injector rack. This could not be accomplished
with the non-spring loaded two screw injector control tube. It also permits the use of an air inlet
housing with no emergency air shutoff-valve.

1. Spring (RH Helix) 9. Clevis Pin

2. Spring (LH Helix) 10. Fuel Rods
3. Rack Lever 11. Return Spring
4. Locknut 12. Slot
5. Adjusting Screw 13. Control Tube
6. Brackets 14. Spacer
7. Pin 15. Injector Control Tube Assembly
8. Cotter Pin
Figure 2-241 Injector Control Tube Assemblies (Spring Loaded)
NOTE:
Do not replace the spring-loaded fuel injector control tube and lever assembly with
the two screw design control tube assembly without including an air inlet housing that
incorporates an emergency air shutoff-valve. When the spring-loaded fuel injector
control tube and lever assembly is installed on an engine and the emergency shutdown
mechanism is removed from the air inlet housing, the shaft holes at each end of the

housing must be plugged. Ream the shaft holes to 15.9766 mm (0.6290 in.), and install
a 5/8 in. cup plug at each end of the housing.
Pull the governor shutdown lever to the no fuel position to perform normal or emergency
engine shutdown on the spring-loaded, one screw design fuel injector control tube. Trip the air
shutoff-valve in the air inlet housing to perform an emergency shutdown on the two screw design
injector control tube and lever assembly. Pulling the governor shutdown lever to the no-fuel
position accomplishes normal shutdown. The single screw and locknut adjustment on each
injector rack control lever can be performed the same as the two screw design rack control lever.
Refer to section 12.4.8 and refer to section 12.4.12.
2.33.1 Repair or Replacement of Fuel Injector Control Tube

See Figure 2-242.

Figure 2-242 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Fuel Injector Control

Tube
2.33.2 Removal of Fuel Injector Control Tube
Remove the fuel injector control tube as follows:

1. Remove the cotter pin and clevis pin connecting the fuel rod to the injector tube control
lever.
2. Remove the two attaching bolts and lock washers at each bracket.
3. Remove the two 1/4 in.-20 x 5/8 in. bolts and lock washers at each bracket.
4. Disengage the rack levers from the injector control racks, and lift the control tube
assembly from the cylinder head.
2.33.3 Disassembly of Fuel Injector Control Tube
Disassemble the fuel injector control tube as follows:
NOTE:
The injector control tube, one mounting bracket, a spacer, and injector control tube lever
are available as a service assembly. When any part of this assembly needs replacing,
DDC recommends replacing the complete service assembly. Therefore, complete
disassembly procedures are not included.
1. Remove the bracket from the injector control tube.

2. Loosen the adjusting screws or adjusting screw and locknut at each injector rack control
lever.
3. With the spring-loaded injector control tube, disconnect the yield springs at each rack
lever. Roll the yield springs out of the slots and notch of the control tube.
4. Disconnect the return springs and/or return spring and rack levers from the control tube.
2.33.3.1 Cleaning of Fuel Injector Control Tube
Clean the fuel injector control tube as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Wash all injector control tube parts in clean fuel oil.

EYE INJURY
2.33.3.2 Inspection of Fuel Injector Control Tube
Inspect the fuel injector control tube as follows:

1. Visually inspect the control tube, control lever, control tube rack, control levers, and
brackets for excessive wear, cracks or damage.
[a] If worn, cracked, or damaged, replace them.
NOTE:
The bearing in the bracket is not serviced separately.
[b] If not worn, cracked, or damaged, continue inspection.

2. Visually inspect the yield springs and/or return spring for wear or fractures.
[a] If worn or fractured, replace the springs.
[b] If not worn or fractured, the components may be reused.
[c] Refer to section 2.33.4 for assembly of the left-bank fuel injector, or refer to section
2.33.5 for assembly of the right-bank injector.
2.33.4 Assembly of Fuel Injector Control Tube (Left-Bank Cylinder Head)
Assemble the fuel injector control tube as follows:

1. Install the return spring on the control tube and against the front bracket.
On a two screw design injector control tube, proceed as follows:
1. Install the rack control levers on the control tube, with the levers facing the rear bracket
position.
2. Turn the adjusting screws in far enough to position the levers on the control tube.
On a one screw and locknut design injector control tube, proceed as follows:
1. Install a rack control lever, with the lever facing the rear bracket position.
2. Install the odd (L. H. helix) yield spring.
3. Install the R. H. helix yield springs and rack control levers with the levers facing the
rear bracket.

4. Attach the curled end of the yield springs to the rack control levers.
5. Roll the yield springs into the notch (odd spring) and slots (R. H. helix springs) in the
control tube.
6. Turn the adjusting screws and locknuts into the slots far enough to position the levers
on the control tube.
7. On both designs, attach the curled end of the control tube return spring to the rack control
lever and the extended end of the spring behind the front bracket.
8. On both designs, install the rear bracket on the end of the injector control tube.
9. Refer to section 2.33.6 for installation of fuel injector control tube.
2.33.5 Assembly of Fuel Injector Control Tube (Right-Bank Cylinder

Head)
Assemble the fuel injector control tube as follows:

On two screw design injector control tube proceed as follows:
1. Install the rack control levers on the control tube, with the levers facing the front bracket
position.
2. Turn the adjusting screws into the slots in the control tube far enough to position the levers.
On the one screw and locknut design injector control tube, proceed as follows:
1. Install the rack control levers, with the levers facing the front bracket position and the
R. H. helix yield springs.
2. Install the odd (L. H. helix) yield spring and rack control lever, with the lever facing
the front bracket position.
3. Attach the curled end of the yield springs to the rack control levers and roll the springs into
the notch (odd yield spring) and the slots (R. H. helix yield springs) in the control tube.
4. Turn the adjusting screws and locknuts into the notch and slots far enough to position the
levers on the control tube.
On both designs, proceed as follows:
1. Install the control tube return spring and rear bracket on the control tube.
2. Attach the curled end of the return spring to the rack control lever and the extended end of
the spring behind the rear bracket.
Index the control lever onto the injector control tube as follows:
1. Loosen the adjusting screw for the rack lever closest to the control lever.
2. Slide the return spring and rack lever back 3 to 4 inches.

3. Fabricate an indexing bracket from a 5 in. long piece of 1/2 in. wide, 1/8 in. thick bar
stock. See Figure 2-243.
1. Bolt 1/4 in. x 1 3/4 in. 3. Flat Bar Stock 1/8 in. (1/2 in. Wide)
2. Feeler Gage 0.011 in. 4. Bracket Made from Bar Stock
Figure 2-243 Fabricate Indexing Bracket

4. Secure the indexing bracket to the control tube with a hose clamp. See Figure 2-244.
1. Clamp 2. Bracket Made from Bar Stock
Figure 2-244 Secure Indexing Bracket to Control Tube
5. Insert a 1/4 in. x 1-3/4 in. bolt through the end of the control lever.
6. Rotate the bracket and clamp until the bracket is resting against the bolt.
7. Tighten the clamp to hold the bracket securely against the bolt.
NOTE:
Ensure that the indexing bracket cannot be moved.

8. Remove the pin from the control lever, and press the old lever off the control tube.
See Figure 2-245.
1. Fabricated Flat Stock 3. Bracket Made from Bar Stock

2. Lever 4. Control Tube Assembly
Figure 2-245 Pressing Old Lever Off Control Tube Assembly

9. Insert the 1/4 in. x 1-3/4 in. bolt through the end of a new lever. Press the lever onto the
control tube with the bolt resting against the indexing bracket. See Figure 2-246.
1. Control Tube Assembly 4. Bolt

2. Bracket Made from Bar Stock 5. Feeler Gage
3. Control Tube Bracket
Figure 2-246 Installing New Lever on Control Tube Assembly
10. Place a 0.2794 mm (0.011 in.) feeler gage under the lever to get proper clearance between
the lever and the spacer on the control tube.
11. Before pressing on the lever, make sure the opposite end of the control tube is supported.
12. Position the control tube on the table of a drill press.
13. Drill a 1/8 in. hole through the control lever approximately 45 degrees from the location
of the former hole. (Use the replaced lever for reference).

14. After drilling, install a new pin.
2.33.6 Installation of Fuel Injector Control Tube
Install the fuel injector control tube as follows:

1. Engage the injector rack control levers with the injector control racks. Place the brackets
over the mounting holes on the cylinder head.
2. Install the two 1/4 in.-20 x 5/8 in. bolts and lock washers at each bracket to attach the
injector control tube assembly to the cylinder head. Tighten the bolts to 14-16 N·m
3. Check the control tube to be sure it moves freely in the brackets. Tap the control tube
lightly to align the bearings in the bracket, if necessary.
4. Connect the fuel rod to the injector tube control lever with a clevis pin and a new cotter pin.
5. Clean the control tube thoroughly.
6. Install in the engine.
7. Position the injector rack control levers. Refer to section 12.4.7.
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
8. The injector rack control levers must be able to move to a no fuel position before restarting
the engine.

Description Page
SHOP NOTES .................................................................................................. 2-428

INSTALLATION OF 6V-92 EUI 0.10 g/bhp-hr PM US EPA-APPROVED
EMISSION UPGRADE ............................................................................ 2-428
Camshaft Timing ......................................................................................... 2-429
Injector Timing (DDEC IV Modification) ...................................................... 2-430
Installation of DDEC IV Components .......................................................... 2-430
DDEC II Upgrade Procedure ...................................................................... 2-430
REPAIRING ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM) COVER AND
FASTENER ............................................................................................. 2-431
Repair Fastener .......................................................................................... 2-432
Repair Cover Gasket .................................................................................. 2-433
Clean Cover and Case ............................................................................... 2-433
IMPROVED EPROM STABILIZER KIT FOR DDEC II ENGINES .................. 2-433
Removal of EPROM Stabilizer Kit .............................................................. 2-434
Installation of Improved EPROM Stabilizer Kit ........................................... 2-435
CHECKING INJECTOR TESTER J 34760-B ................................................. 2-436
CHECKING INJECTOR SPRAY TIP TESTER (J 22640-A) ........................... 2-437
INJECTOR SPRAY TIPS ................................................................................ 2-440
Cleaning Injector Spray Tips ....................................................................... 2-440
CHECK INJECTOR FUEL OUTPUT .............................................................. 2-442
INJECTOR CALIBRATOR READINGS .......................................................... 2-446
INJECTOR PLUNGERS ................................................................................. 2-448
MASTER INJECTOR CALIBRATING KIT ...................................................... 2-448
PLUNGER/BUSHING AND TIP FLOW GAGE ............................................... 2-449
REGULATED PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT .................................................... 2-450
CALIBRATION TO MASTER ORIFICE .......................................................... 2-451
MEASURE SPRAY TIP FLOW ....................................................................... 2-452
PLUNGER/BUSHING EFFECTIVE STROKE MEASUREMENT ................... 2-454
INJECTOR PART LAPPING ........................................................................... 2-456

REFINISH LAPPING BLOCKS ...................................................................... 2-459
EFFECT OF PRE-IGNITION ON FUEL INJECTOR ...................................... 2-460
INJECTOR TIMING ........................................................................................ 2-461
FUEL LINES ................................................................................................... 2-461
Locating Air Leaks in Fuel Lines ................................................................. 2-462
Pressurize Fuel System - Check for Leaks ................................................. 2-462
Detecting Internal Fuel Leaks ..................................................................... 2-464
Fuel Leak Tests (Injectors Installed/Engine Off) ......................................... 2-464
Fuel Leak Tester ......................................................................................... 2-465
Test Injector "Pop" (on Engine) with Tool J 37050-A .................................. 2-467
Test Injector Pop-N-Fixture with J 34760-B ................................................ 2-468
FUEL JUMPER LINE MAINTENANCE AND REUSE .................................... 2-468
Checking for Fuel Leaks ............................................................................. 2-470
Fuel Injector Tube Leak Sealing ................................................................. 2-472
REMOVAL OF BOLT-ON TYPE FUEL STRAINER OR FUEL FILTER .......... 2-473
Cleaning of Bolt-On Type Fuel Strainer or Fuel Filter .................................... 2-473
Inspection of Bolt-On Type Fuel Strainer or Fuel Filter .................................. 2-474
Installation of Bolt-On Type Fuel Strainer or Fuel Filter ................................. 2-474
TAMPER-RESISTANT GOVERNOR FOR HIGHWAY VEHICLE ENGINES .. 2-475
MODIFICATION OF GOVERNOR HOUSING TO ACCEPT CURRENT
TAMPER-RESISTANT GAP ADJUSTING SCREW AND SPRING
COVER ................................................................................................... 2-480
REWORK GOVERNOR HOUSING ............................................................... 2-481
PRE-INSTALLATION OF A BARBER-COLEMAN ELECTRONIC
GOVERNOR ........................................................................................... 2-484
EXCEPTIONS TO STANDARD BOLT AND NUT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 2-486
SHOP NOTES
Shop notes for the Series 92:
INSTALLATION OF 6V-92 EUI 0.10 g/bhp-hr PM US EPA-APPROVED

EMISSION UPGRADE
The following is a brief summery of the 6V-92 EUI 0.10 g/bhp-hr PM US EPA-approved
emission upgrade kit. For specific installation procedures and engine model requirements, refer
to 18SP479 provided with upgrade kit.

Before installing kit components, the engine camshaft and injector timing must be set.
Refer to section1.25.1 and refer to section 12.3.
After camshaft and injector timing has been set, the former pulse wheel, ECM, and SRS must
be removed and replaced with the items from the kit. A new ECM heat shield and cold plate
must also be installed. The fuel and lubrication systems require minor modifications, and new
sensors must be installed. Following this, the ECM digital outputs may need configuring to
ensure proper engine operation.
Camshaft Timing
Refer to section 1.29 and set crankshaft gear-to-idler gear timing as follows:
□ Set gear-to-idler gear timing to 1 tooth retarded from the STANDARD R to R (or L to L)
position. Note that the crankshaft gear has an "A" marking for the advanced position.
See Figure 2-247.
Note that the “T” position is not currently on the crankshaft gear. This “retarded” position is to be used when setting all gear train
timing to standard “V to V” positions. This is only an aide to show the gear teeth mesh should be in the opposite direction of the
“A” (advanced) markings on the current gear.
Figure 2-247 Gear Train Setting for DDEC IV Required Retarded Timing on
6V-92 Engine
□ Time the gears 1 tooth retarded from the STANDARD position in the opposite direction
of this advanced setting. In the future, a "T" will be stamped on the crankshaft gear
to indicate the retarded position.
Idler gear-to-camshaft gear timing remains unchanged as standard VR to R (or VL to L), and
camshaft gear-to-camshaft gear position remains unchanged as standard V to V.

Injector Timing (DDEC IV Modification)
Set injector height as follows:
NOTICE:
Failure to set injector timing at the correct height can result in
push rod bending and/or other serious damage to the overhead
when the engine is cranked.
Using Kent-Moore tool J 44191, set the injector height to 1.540 in.
Installation of DDEC IV Components
Refer to section 2.8.3 for installation of DDEC IV components.
DDEC II Upgrade Procedure
The following is a brief summery of the 6V-92 EUI 0.10 g/bhp-hr PM US EPA-approved
emission upgrade kit. For specific installation procedures and engine model requirements, refer to
18SP479 provided with upgrade kit.
1. A power harness adaptor is provided so that the DDEC II power supply harness does not
need to be modified. Plug the adaptor into the current power harness.
2. This kit includes an additional oil temperature sensor, required for the DDEC IV upgrade.
Install the sensor into the tee in the right front face of the block. Install the turbo oil supply
line into the other end of the tee. Connect the pigtail on the engine sensor harness to
the new oil temperature sensor.
NOTE:
All of the other sensors included in the kit are similar to those used in the DDEC II
installation, so the former sensors should be replaced with the fresh sensors when the
engine is converted to DDEC IV.
3. Modify the fuel system by installing an R70 elbow into the front of the RB cylinder head
in the top hole. Install the 1/ 4 in. to 1/4 in. adaptor into the elbow, then install the 3/8 in.
to 1/4 in. connector into this adaptor. Various other 3/8 in. to 1/4 in. bushings and elbows
have also been included for adaptation to the fuel hoses provided.
4. Install the exhaust temperature sensor into the M14 X 1.5 mm boss located on the end
plate of the catalytic converter. Connect the exhaust sensor harness to the long pigtail
on the DDEC sensor harness (wires 132 and 452) Take care to route this harness away
from the exhaust system.
5. Install the new coolant level sensor as follows:
□ Remove the DDEC II style coolant level sensor (CLS).
□ If the vehicle is equipped with the newer style integral connector type sensor, install
either the 1/4 in. NPT coolant level sensor or the 3/8 in. NPT coolant level sensor.
Attach the connector.

□ If an older style screw terminal sensor was removed, cut the signal wire screwed to
the end of the sensor, and splice to the yellow wire in cavity “A” of the two-pin
connector adaptor included in the kit. Splice the ground wire screwed to the side of
the sensor to the black wire in cavity “B” of the adaptor. Solder and insulate using
shrink tubing. Do not use crimp type connectors. Install the new sensor, and attach
the connector adaptor.
□ Locate the existing DDEC II coolant level module and remove. Install the DDEC
II-IV coolant level module in its place.
6. Fill out the programming update request sheet (provided in kit). Once the mainframe is
updated with the information provided, program the ECM.
7. Install injector calibration codes.
NOTE:
Some ECM digital inputs may need to be configured to ensure proper engine operation.
These inputs should be set in the program as the engine is received from the factory;
but in case of an error, they may be reset with a distributor reprogramming station.
Required digital inputs are Listed in Table 2-10.
Pin Wire Digital Input - Function

16 - Alt. Min. VSG (Necesssary
E1 451
for High Idle
F1 542 09 - Throttle Inhibit, Door Switch
25 - SEO, Shutdown Engine
G1 528
Override, Diagnostic Request
Park Brake Interlock (Necessary
H2 524
for Idle Shutdown)
Table 2-10 Required Digital Inputs
8. Refer to section2.15.3.1 for adjustment of SRS and TRS sensor.

9. Install drive belts and adjust tension.
10. Check fluid levels and replenish, if required.
NOTICE:
The required injector calibration codes must be properly
installed in the ECM before operating the engine. Failure to
install required injector calibration codes may result in degraded
engine performance and/or place the engine in violation of EPA
(Environmental Protection Agency) certification.
11. Start the engine and check for proper operation.
REPAIRING ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM) COVER AND

FASTENER
In February of 1993 Detroit Diesel released new EPROM kits for installation in ECMS.

During installation of new EPROMs (refer to instructions contained in the EPROM kit), the
ECM cover gasket and/or fastener(s) are sometimes damaged. A new non-corrosive gasket
material, Heavy Body Ultra No. 59876 RTV, is now available from the Loctite Corporation to
repair damaged ECM cover gaskets.
In addition, Detroit Diesel has developed a recommended repair procedure for damaged (broken
off) cover-to-body fasteners.
The required tools needed are as follows:
□ 1/4 in. Nut Driver
□ Thin head standard screwdriver
□ Antistatic wrist strap J 8639-01 (for electrostatic discharge prevention)
□ Drill Press
□ 5/32 in. carbide end mill (4 flute)
□ 10-24 self-tapping screws (local purchase, quantity as required).
□ Loctite 290 Threadlock (23509539)
□ Loctite 59876 HB Ultra Block RTV (local purchase)
Repair Fastener
Use the 1/4 in. nut driver to remove the 16 screw fasteners which hold the ECM cover to the case.
If any fasteners should break off, repair as follows:
1. With unbroken screws loosened, remove all but one screw from each side of the cover
and tighten the remaining screws.
NOTICE:
The cover should remain in the case during this repair to prevent
dirt and machining chips from entering the inside of the ECM
case.
2. Clamp down the ECM case on the bed plate of the drill press. Ensure bed plate and case
are square to the drill chuck centerline.
3. Install the 5/32 in. carbide end mill in the drill chuck and center and mill on the broken
screw. Machine out the broken screw.
NOTICE:
When removing broken screws at the receptacle end of the case,
care should be taken not to machine beyond the bottom of the
screw hole into the plastic receptacle below.
4. Following removal of the broken screws, blow off all dirt and machining chips from
the ECM case and cover.
5. Use number 10-24 self-tapping screws at repaired screw hole position(s). At final assembly
place a drop of Loctite 290 Threadlock (23509539) on new screw and in screw hole.

Repair Cover Gasket
Careful removal of the ECM cover will prevent gasket damage. If the cover gasket is damaged
during removal it may be repaired using the following procedure:
1. Inspect the cover gasket for any damage or areas where a leak could possibly occur.
2. If gasket is damaged, repair using Loctite Heavy Body Ultra 59876 RTV silicone adhesive
sealant. This is the only sealant recommended by Detroit Diesel. Other sealants emit
corrosive gas during curing which harms electronic components and/or connections within
the ECM.
3. Cut or damaged section(s) of the gasket may be repaired by placing a bead of sealant on
and along the side of the damaged area. Missing pieces of gasket may be replaced with a
similar size bead of sealant.
4. After applying sealant, the cover and case should be assembled within 15 minutes
as sealant will become tack-free on an exposed surface in less than 20 minutes after
application. Install fasteners and tighten to 2.0-2.2 N·m (17.7-19.5 lb·in.) torque.
Clean Cover and Case
Clean up cover and case as follows:
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury to eyes and skin from uncured sealant, wear
a face shield or goggles and protective gloves. In case of
eye contact, immediately flush eyes with water for at least
15 minutes and call a physician. Avoid prolonged contact
with skin.
Uncured sealant should be cleaned up immediately with Loctite cleaning solvent 755 or mineral
spirits. Cured silicone rubber can be cut away with appropriate scrapers.
IMPROVED EPROM STABILIZER KIT FOR DDEC II ENGINES
In August of 1995 the Electronic Programmable Read Only Memory (EPROM) stabilizer kit
16171618 used on Series 92 DDEC II engines has been improved. The 141 software EPROM
formerly included in this kit has been replaced by the improved 154 software EPROM. The
improved software provides increased fuel combustion efficiency for all DDEC engines.

The improved EPROM is serviced only in improved EPROM stabilizer kit 16171618. Former and
improved EPROM stabilizer kits are similar, except for EPROM assemblies, and are completely
interchangeable. Only the improved kit will be serviced. Parts in the kit are listed in Table 2-11.
Part Number Quantity Description

16167640 1 Plate, Stabilizer
16190605* 1 EPROM Assembly (154 Software)
16167642 1 Spacer, EPROM
16167643 2 Spacer, EPROM
16167444 3 Screw
- 1 Installation Instructions
* Was EPROM Assembly 16168498
Table 2-11 Parts List of Improved EPROM Stabilizer Kit 16171618
The following tools are required to replace the former EPROM with the improved EPROM
stabilizer kit:
□ 1/4 in. Nut Driver
□ Thin Head Standard Screwdriver
□ Anti-Static Wrist Strap (for electrostatic discharge
Removal of EPROM Stabilizer Kit
Perform the following s to remove the former EPROM:

1. Using a Diagnostic Data Reader (DDR), J 38500-H, check for codes in the electronic
control module (ECM). Note the codes. Erase the codes.
2. Remove the ECM from the engine and take to a clean environment.
NOTICE:
Failure to properly ground your hand while handling the ECM
may result in damage to the EPROM, the ECM or both.
3. Fasten the wrist strap of tool J 8639-01. securely around your wrist and attach the test clip
to a good ground.
4. Using the 1/4 in. nut driver, remove the 16 screws which fasten the ECM cover to the case.

NOTICE:
Use care to avoid damaging the cover gasket on the ECM. A
damaged cover gasket could allow contaminants to enter the
ECM, which may cause damage.
5. Using the thin head standard screwdriver, carefully pry the cover loose from the case.
NOTE:
Early EPROM assemblies may have been installed in a blue 28-pin socket at the end
of the ECM and under the stabilizer plate. To remove the EPROM assembly from its
socket, push down (unlatch) the blue and white locking tabs and move them to the side.
6. Remove the EPROM. Then, using a suitable narrow diameter tool, remove the locking tabs
by carefully pressing out the pins holding the tabs to the socket. Discard the tabs and pins.
Installation of Improved EPROM Stabilizer Kit
Install the improved EPROM stabilizer Kit as follows:

1. Using the 1/4 in. nut driver, remove the three mounting screws adjacent to the blue 28-pin
socket. Discard the screws.
2. The EPROM assembly and socket are keyed, so the assembly can be installed only one
way. Observe the keying and install the EPROM assembly by pushing it firmly down
into the socket.
3. See Figure 2-248 and place the shorter spacer with two bands over the holes at locations
2 and 3. Lay the stabilizer plate over the EPROM so that the bolt holes line up with the
spacers and the holes in the circuit board. Fasten the stabilizer plate to the case with three
8-32 1 3/4 in. screws. Tighten screws to 3.0-3.7 N·m (26.6-32.7 lb·in) torque.
Figure 2-248 EPROM and Spacer Locations

NOTICE:
Use care to avoid damaging the cover gasket on the ECM. A
damaged cover gasket could allow contaminants to enter the
ECM, which may cause damage.
4. Carefully inspect the cover gasket for any damage or areas where a dust leak could
possibly occur.
NOTE:
If gasket is damaged, it must be replaced with a new gasket.
5. Fasten the cover to the case with the 16 previously removed 8-32 x 1/2 in. screws. Tighten
screws to 2.0-2.2 N·m (17.7-19.5 lb·in) torque.
6. Remove the wrist strap and ground clip.
To complete the EPROM upgrade perform the following:
1. Mount the ECM to the engine, ensuring rubber isolation mounts are properly seated.
Replace isolation mounts if they are worn, brittle, or damaged.
2. Check the resistance of the EPROM assembly. With the 6-pin connector unplugged, the
resistance from the ECM case to the engine should be greater than 100 kohms.
3. Return the EPROM assembly that was removed to:
Detroit Diesel Corporation
13400 Outer Drive, West
Detroit, MI 48239-4001
Attn.: Technical Service Group
Speed Code: A07
CHECKING INJECTOR TESTER J 34760-B
The injector tester J 34760-B should be checked monthly to be sure that it is operating properly.
Use the following procedure to check injector tester:
1. Fill the supply tank in the injector tester with clean injector test oil J 26400-5B.
2. Open the valve in the fuel supply line.
3. Place the test block on the injector locating plate, and secure the block with the fuel
inlet connector clamp.
4. Operate the pump handle until all of the air is out of the test block, and clamp the fuel
outlet connector onto the test block.
5. Break the connection at the gage, and operate the pump handle until all air bubbles in
the fuel system disappear.
6. Tighten the connection at the gage.

7. Operate the pump handle to pressurize the tester fuel system to 16 536-17 225 kPa
(2400-2500 lb/in.2).
8. Close the valve on the fuel supply line.
NOTE:
After a slight initial drop, the pressure should remain steady. This indicates that the
injector tester is operating properly.
9. Open the fuel valve, and remove the test block.

If there is a leak in the tester fuel system, it will be indicated by a drop in pressure. The leak must
be located, corrected, and the tester checked before checking an injector.
Occasionally, dirt will get into the pump check valve in the tester, resulting in internal pump valve
leakage and the inability to build up pressure in the tester fuel system. Pump valve leakage must
be corrected before an injector can be properly tested.
When pump valve leakage occurs, loosen the fuel inlet connector clamp, and operate the tester
pump handle to purge the dirt from the pump check valve. A few quick strokes of the pump
handle will usually eliminate dirt. If not, the pump check valve must be removed, lapped and
cleaned. The pump check valve in J 34760-150A (from set J 34760-B) must be replaced.
If an injector tester supply or gage line is damaged or broken, install a new replacement line
(available from the tester manufacturer). Do not shorten the old lines, since the volume of test oil
will be altered sufficiently to give an inaccurate valve holding pressure test.
If you suspect that the lines have been shortened or replaced with a longer line, check the accuracy
of the tester with a master injector on which the pressure holding time is known. If the pressure
holding time does not agree with that recorded for the master injector, replace the lines.
CHECKING INJECTOR SPRAY TIP TESTER (J 22640-A)
Check injector spray tip tester J 22640-A as follows:

1. Operate the pump handle until a clear flow of test oil is obtained at the tip mounting
pedestal.

2. Place the tip assembly, valve spring with cage and check valve cage on top of the pedestal.
Tighten the injector nut. See Figure 2-249.
1. Tip Mounting Pedestal 3. Injector Tip and Check Valve Components

2. Injector Nut
Figure 2-249 Installing Injector Nut

3. Place the shield on the tester and operate the pump handle until the needle valve has
opened several times to purge air from the system. See Figure 2-250.
1. Pump Handle 4. Filler Plug

2. Spray Shield 5. Tank
3. Pressure Gage
Figure 2-250 Tester J 22640-A with Shield Installed
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from penetrating fluids, do not put your
hands in front of fluid under pressure. Fluids under
pressure can penetrate skin and clothing.
4. Operate the pump lever rapidly with smooth, even strokes (40 strokes per minute)
simulating the tip functioning in the engine. Note the pressure at which the test oil
delivery occurs.
NOTE:
Test oil delivery should occur between 15,158 and 22,737 kPa (2200 and 3300 lb/in.2)
except for the L-40 injector needle valve and spring which should open between 11,713
and 15,847 kPa (1700 and 2300 lb/in.2). When using the high VOP spring, the oil delivery

will occur at 19,981-26,871 kPa (2900-3900 lb/in.2). The beginning and ending of delivery
should be sharp and the test oil should be a finely atomized spray.
NOTE:
If the valve opening pressure is below the minimum specified limits, or atomization is
poor, the cause is usually a weak valve spring or poor needle valve seat.
If the valve opening pressure is within specified limits, check for spray tip leakage as follows:
NOTE:
When testing for spray tip leakage, use the proper spring for the valve tip being tested.
1. Actuate the pump lever several times and hold the pressure at 10,335 kPa (1500 lb/in.2 )
for 15 seconds.
2. Inspect the spray tip for leakage. There should be no fuel droplets, although a slight
wetting at the spray tip is permissible.
INJECTOR SPRAY TIPS
Due to a slight variation in the size of the small orifices in the end of each spray tip, the fuel
output of an injector may be varied by replacing the spray tip.
Flow gage J 25600-B may be used to select a spray tip that will increase or decrease fuel injector
output for a particular injector after it has been rebuilt and tested on the calibrator.
Cleaning Injector Spray Tips
Clean the fuel injector as follows:

1. Clean the spray tip in sonic cleaner.
2. Hone the wire end until it is smooth and free of burrs. Taper the end to a distance of
1.588 mm (0.0625 in.) with stone J 8170.
NOTE:
Allow the wire to extend 3.18 mm (0.125 in.) from tool J 4298-1, (tool set J 8169-03).
EYE INJURY
3. Wash the tip in solvent, and dry with compressed air.

4. Clean the spray tip orifices with pin vise J 4298-1 (from tool set J 8169-03) and the proper
size spray tip cleaning wire. Use wire J 21460-01 to clean 0.140 mm (0.0055 in.) diameter

holes and wire J 21461-01 (from set J 8169-03 to clean 0.1524 mm (0.006 in.) diameter
holes. See Figure 2-251.
1. Spray Tip
Figure 2-251 Cleaning Spray Tip Orifices with J 4298-1 from Set J 8169-03
NOTE:
Ultrasonic cleaning is also an acceptable way to clean the injectors.
NOTICE:
Do not buff the spray tip area excessively, and do not use a steel
wire buffing wheel. The spray tip holes may be distorted.
EYE INJURY
goggles.
5. The exterior surface of an injector spray tip may be cleaned by using a brass wire buffing
wheel J 7944.
NOTE:
To obtain a good polishing effect and longer brush life, the buffing wheel should be
installed on a motor that turns the wheel at approximately 3000 RPM. Place the tip over

the drill end of the spray tip cleaner tool J 24838, and hold the tip body against the
buffing wheel. Rotate the spray tip while it is being buffed.
6. When the spray tip body is clean, lightly buff the end of the tip to clean the spray tip
orifice area.
EYE INJURY
7. Wash the spray tip in clean solvent, and dry it with compressed air.
EYE INJURY
8. Using compressed air clean and blow out all injector body passages.
CHECK INJECTOR FUEL OUTPUT
Perform the injector fuel output test in calibrator. See Figure 2-252.
NOTE:
If calibrator J 22410 is not available use updated calibrator J 39300. Tools used on these
machines are not interchangeable. Refer to OEM.

1. Seat 4. Counter
2. Injector 5. Injector Clamp-up Valve
3. Adaptor 6. Cradle Handle
Figure 2-252 Injector in Calibrator

1. Before testing injector output, ensure calibrator test oil is supplied to the injector fitting
located over the rack. To change the flow from the calibrator, exchange the positions of
the braided and the clear fuel lines. See Figure 2-253.
1. Fuel Outlet 3. Fuel Injector

2. Fuel Inlet
Figure 2-253 Position of Calibrator Fuel Flow Pipes
2. Place the cam shaft index wheel and fuel flow lever in their respective positions. Turn on
the test fuel oil heater switch to preheat the test oil to 35-40°C (95-105°F).
3. Place the proper injector adaptor between the tie rods, and engage it with the fuel block
locating pin. Slide the adaptor forward and up against the fuel block face.
4. Place the injector seat J 22410-226 (from set J 22410) into the permanent seat (cradle
handle in the vertical position). Clamp the injector into position by operating the injector
clamp-up valve.
NOTE:
If calibrator J 22410 is not available use updated calibrator J 39300. Tools used on these
machines are not interchangeable. Refer to OEM

5. Set the counter at the appropriate number of strokes, 500 or 1,000. See Figure 2-254. If for
any reason this setting has been altered, reset the counter for the correct number of strokes.
1. Calibrator Stroke Counter
Figure 2-254 Setting Calibrator Stroke Counter
NOTE:
Calibrators with Serial No. 1175 or lower were manufactured as 1,000 stroke machines,
but may have been converted to 500 stroke machines with a conversion kit. Refer to the
calibrator instruction manual for information on setting the counter and any additional
information required.
6. Pull the injector rack out to the no-fuel position.

7. Turn on the main power control circuit (vial light) switch. Start the calibrator by turning
on the motor starter switch. The low oil pressure warning buzzer will sound briefly until
the lubricating oil reaches the proper pressure.
8. After the calibrator has started, set the injector rack into the full-fuel position. Allow the
injector to operate for approximately 30 seconds to purge air that may be in the system.
9. After the air is purged, press the red button on the test switch. This will start the flow of
fuel into the vial. The fuel flow to the vial will automatically stop after the correct number
of preset strokes are counted.
10. Shut the calibrator off when two consecutive tests show the same output. Usually, 3
tests are sufficient.

11. Observe the vial readings, and determine whether the injector fuel output falls within
the specified limits listed in Table 2-12.
Injector Minimum Maximum Injector Minimum Maximum

9270 65 75 9B90 85 91
9275 70 76 9C70 65 71
9280 75 81 9C75 70 76
9285 80 86 9C80 75 81
9290 85 91 9C90 85 91
9295 90 96 9E65 70 75
9200 95 101 9E70 75 80
9215 110 116 - - -
9225 118 126 - - -
9A80 75 81 9F90 85 91
9A85 80 86 7G65 67 72
9A90 85 91 7G70 72 77
9B70 65 71 7G75 77 82
9B75 70 76 - - -
9B80 75 81 - - -
9B85 80 86 - - -
Table 2-12 Injector Fuel Output Specifications
The calibrator may be used to check and select a set of injectors that will inject the same
amount of fuel in each cylinder at a given throttle setting, thus resulting in a smooth running,
well balanced engine.
An injector which passes all the above tests may be put back into service. An injector that fails
to pass one or more of the tests, however, must be replaced.
Any injector that is disassembled must be tested again before placing in service.
INJECTOR CALIBRATOR READINGS
Several factors affect the injector calibrator output readings. The four major factors are:

1. Operator Errors: If the column of liquid in the vial is read at the top of the meniscus
instead of at the bottom, a variation of 1 or 2 points will result. See Figure 2-255.
1. Top of Meniscus 4. Bottom of Meniscus
Figure 2-255 Checking Fuel Output
2. Air in Lines: This can be caused by starting a test before the air is purged from the injector
and lines, or from an air leak on the vacuum side of the pump.
3. Counter Improperly Set: The counter should be set to divert the injector output at 1,000
strokes, but must be reset for 1,200 strokes to check 35 and 40 cu. mm injectors. An error
may have been made while returning to the 1,000 stroke setting.
NOTE:
This should not be confused with counter overrun that will vary from 2 to 6 digits,
depending upon internal friction. The fuel diversion is accomplished electrically and will
occur at 1,000 strokes (if properly set) although the counter may overrun several digits.
4. Test Oil: A special test oil is supplied with the calibrator and should always be used. If
regular diesel fuel oil (or any other liquid) is used, variations are usually noted because of
the effect of the oil on the solenoid valve and other parts.
The fuel oil introduced into the test oil during calibration check contaminates the test oil.
Therefore, it is important that the test oil and test oil filter be changed every six months, or
sooner, if required.

In addition, other malfunctions, such as a slipping drive belt, low level of test oil, a clogged filter,
a defective pump or leaking line connections could cause bad readings. A frequent check should
be made for any of these tell-tale conditions. Calibrator accuracy can only be verified using
master injectors J 35369.
INJECTOR PLUNGERS
The fuel output and the operating characteristics of an injector are, to a great extent, determined
by the type of plunger used. See Figure 2-256. The beginning of the injection period is controlled
by the upper helix angle. The lower helix angle retards or advances the end of the injection period.
Therefore, it is imperative that the correct plunger is installed whenever an injector is overhauled.
If injectors with different type plungers (and spray tips) are mixed in an engine, erratic operation
will result and may cause serious damage to the engine or to the equipment it powers.
Figure 2-256 Types of Injector Plungers
Injector plungers cannot be reworked to change the output or operating characteristics. Grinding
will destroy the hardened case and result in chipping of the helices and seizure or scoring of
the plunger.
MASTER INJECTOR CALIBRATING KIT
Use master injector calibrating kit J 35369 to determine the accuracy of the injector calibrator.

With the test fluid temperature at 38°C ± 1° (100°F ± 1°), and each injector warm after several
test cycles, run the three injectors contained in the kit. Several readings should be taken with each
injector to check for accuracy and repeatability. If the output readings are within 2% of the values
assigned to the calibrated masters, the calibrator can be considered accurate. Injector testing can
be carried out now without any adjustment of figures. When testing new injectors for output,
however, any difference between the calibrator and the masters should be used to compute new
injector calibration. If more than a 2% variation from the masters is noted, consult the calibrator
manufacturer for possible causes.
The calibrated masters should only be used to qualify injector output calibration test equipment.
PLUNGER/BUSHING AND TIP FLOW GAGE
The injector fuel output is largely dependent upon the combined output of its plunger/bushing
and spray tip assemblies. To assist in the rebuilding of fuel injectors that will calibrate within
specified limits, preselect and match plunger/bushings and tips according to their output prior to
assembly into the injector.
The J 25600-B plunger/bushing and tip flow tester, using low pressure air, measures the output of
plunger/bushing and spray tip assemblies. The flow (output) of the spray tip can be correlated to
high pressure fuel flow during calibration. Used spray tips, however, because of their worn spray
holes, will often flow higher than indicated on a low pressure air tester.
Maintain records that indicate the output values of both plunger/bushing and spray tip assemblies
being matched with resultant calibration in order to develop a useful matching chart.
Install the plunger/bushing and tip flow gage as follows:
1. Place the flow gage unit in a clean, well lighted area that has an air supply of 276 kPa
(40 lb/in.2 ), but not more than 1034 kPa (150 lb/in.2 ).
2. Turn off the air supply valve (on the rear of the flow gage), and connect your air line.

3. Familiarize yourself with the various components on the unit. See Figure 2-257.
1. Clamping Head 6. Air Supply Valve

2. Tip Toggle Valve 7. Pressure Regulator Valve
3. Master Orifice Toggle Valve 8. Plunger and Bushing Toggle Valve
4. Spray Tip Clamp 9. Micrometer Head
5. Calibrating Valve 10. Carriage Adjustment Screw
Figure 2-257 Plunger/Bushing and Tip Flow Gage J 25600-B
REGULATED PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
Perform the regulated pressure adjustment as follows:

1. Set all toggle valves in the closed position.
2. Open the calibrating valve approximately 4 turns.

NOTICE:
DO NOT use this valve as an air shutoff-valve. Tight closing of
this valve may result in valve seat damage.
3. Turn the pressure regulator knob in a counterclockwise direction until it spins freely.
4. Open the air supply valve approximately 3 turns. The pressure regulator is a constant
bleed type (0.04 cubic feet per minute). The air supply valve is provided as a convenient
shutoff to avoid compressed air waste when the flow gage is not in use.
5. Adjust the pressure regulator by rotating the knob in a clockwise direction until the gage
needle is aligned exactly on the regulated pressure mark.
CALIBRATION TO MASTER ORIFICE
When no air is leaking through a master orifice, injector tip or plunger/bushing, the gage needle
will go to the regulated pressure mark. The master orifices (A, B and C) are provided as controlled
air leak passages. Flow tests are conducted comparing an injector tip or a plunger/bushing, to
an air leak through a master orifice.
1. Ensure all toggle valves are in the off position. The gage needle will be at the regulated
pressure mark.
2. Open master orifice valve A. The gage needle will move away from the regulated pressure
mark.

3. Adjust the calibrating valve, so that the gage needle is exactly at the "set line". See Figure
2-258.
1. Flow Gage Unit 2. Calibration Valve
Figure 2-258 Adjusting the Calibrating Valve
4. Close the master orifice toggle valve (needle will return to the regulated pressure mark).
MEASURE SPRAY TIP FLOW
Measure spray tip flow as follows:

1. Clean all spray tips thoroughly (correct flow rate is dependent on a clean spray tip).

2. Observe the number and size of the spray tip holes marked on the narrow end of the spray
tip and calibrate to orifice A. Listed in Table 2-13 are flow values
Tip Stamp Nominal Flow Value Master Orifice Calibration

6-0.006 22 A
7-0.006 69 A
8-0.0055 26 A
8-0.006 48 A
9-0.0055 48 A
9.-0.0058 69 A
Table 2-13 Spray Tip Flow Values
3. Remove the needle valve, if installed, and clamp the spray tip on the unit. See Figure
2-259.
1. Injector Spray Tip
Figure 2-259 Spray Tip Installed in Tester
4. Open the tip toggle valve, and observe the gage reading.
5. The tip can now be compared to the specification sheet and sorted into groups, high,
low, mean, etc.

PLUNGER/BUSHING EFFECTIVE STROKE MEASUREMENT
The reason for measuring the flow through the plunger/bushing assemblies is to measure the
effective stroke (port closing to opening), in thousandths of an inch. To find the closing and
opening points, a controlled air leak is used ("A" master orifice is used as reference). When the
plunger is moved close to the port closed position, the gage needle will be at the set line. At this
position, the air leaking out the bushing port matches the air that would leak out the "A" orifice.
As the plunger is moved inward, the leak stops and the gage needle goes to the regulated pressure
mark. When the plunger is moved further, air begins to leak again. The gage needle moves away
from the regulated pressure mark and moves toward the set line. When the plunger is moved far
enough to read the effective stroke, the gage needle will be at the set line again. The distance the
plunger has moved as indicated on the micrometer, is the effective stroke. This stroke is measured
while the plunger/bushing is held in the full-fuel position.
Measure plunger/bushing effective stroke as follows:
1. Select the proper cradle for the plunger/bushing to be tested, and mount on the fixture.
See Figure 2-260.
1. Locating Surface (Idle) 3. Locating Surface (Full)

2. Bushing Pin 4. Plunger Flat Position (Front)
Figure 2-260 Cradle Mounted on Fixture
2. Calibrate to the "A" orifice. Refer to "Calibration to Master Orifice". All plunger/bushing
tests use the "A" orifice as reference.
3. Close all toggle valves. Gage needle will be at the regulated pressure mark.
4. Adjust the micrometer to zero reading (all zeros).

5. Place the plunger/bushing in the cradle. Ensure plunger flat and locating pin or slot is
properly positioned. To check in full-fuel position, rotate bushing until the bushing pin
contacts the rear locating surface.
6. Adjust spring loaded button until enough force is exerted on the plunger flat to hold the
plunger steady, but not enough to restrict sliding movement when air pressure is applied.
7. Hold the plunger against the micrometer, and rotate the carriage adjustment screw until
the plunger almost closes the port. See Figure 2-261.
1. End of Plunger
Figure 2-261 End of Plunger Shown in Port
8. Open the plunger and bushing toggle valve.
NOTE:
If the plunger has not closed the port far enough, an air leak will be heard and the gage
needle will be left of the set line. If it has closed the port too far, it will be to the right of
the set line, toward or at the regulated pressure mark.
9. Turn the carriage adjustment screw until the gage needle is approximately at 20.
10. Turn the carriage adjustment screw clockwise very slowly until the gage needle is exactly
at the set line. Always adjust in this manner, with the needle moving from approximately
20 to the set line.
11. Turn the micrometer thimble clockwise. The gage needle will move to the regulated
pressure mark. Very little air will be heard leaking.

12. Continue turning clockwise until the gage needle begins to move away from the regulated
pressure mark (air from the bushing will again be heard leaking). Turn very slowly until
the gage needle reaches the set line.
13. Observe and record the micrometer reading. The number shown is the effective stroke in
thousandths of an inch.
14. Turn the micrometer back to zero. Gage needle should return to or very near the set line.
15. Turn off the plunger/bushing test toggle valve.
16. Loosen the clamping knob, and remove the plunger/bushing.
NOTE:
Only minor carriage adjustment will be required for other plunger/bushing of the same
type.
17. Chart the stroke readings and compare to the specifications. Sort into groups, high strokes,
low strokes and mean strokes.
INJECTOR PART LAPPING
Lap the parts as follows:
NOTE:
New parts do not require lapping prior to use. Wash parts in clean solvent to remove the
solidified preservative. If new parts become nicked or burred during handling, lapping
will be necessary to provide adequate sealing between the flat parts.
NOTE:
The sealing surface of current spray tips is precision lapped by a process which gives
the surface a dull, satin-like finish. The lapped surface on former spray tips was bright

and shiny. DDC does not recommend lapping the surface of a new current spray tip.
See Figure 2-262.
1. Injector Body Assembly 6. Spray Tip Assembly

2. Bushing 7. Spring Cage
3. Check Valve 8. Check Valve Cage
4. Spring Seat 9. Valve Spring
5. Needle Valve
Figure 2-262 Sealing Surfaces Which May Require Lapping

EYE INJURY
1. Clean the lapping blocks (J 22090-A) with compressed air. Do not use a cloth or any
other material.
2. Spread a good quality 600 grit dry lapping powder on one of the lapping blocks.
3. Place the part flat on the block and move it back and forth across the block in a figure eight
motion. See Figure 2-263. Do not press on the part. Use enough pressure to keep the
part constantly flat on the block.
1. Injector Tip Nozzle
Figure 2-263 Cleaning Injector Tip Nozzle
4. After every four or five passes, draw the part across a clean piece of tissue placed on a flat
surface to clean the lapping powder from it. Inspect the part. Do not lap excessively.

EYE INJURY
5. When the part is flat, wash it in cleaning solvent, and dry it with compressed air.
6. Place the dry part on the second block. After applying lapping powder, move the part
lightly across the block in a figure eight motion several times to give it a smooth finish.
Do not lap excessively.
EYE INJURY
7. Wash the part once more in cleaning solvent, and dry it with compressed air.
8. Place the dry part on the third block. Do not use lapping powder on this block. Keep the
part flat, and move it in a figure eight motion across the block several times. Lapping the
dry part gives it the "mirror" finish required for perfect sealing.
EYE INJURY
9. Wash all lapped parts in clean solvent, and dry them with compressed air.
REFINISH LAPPING BLOCKS
As the continued use of the lapping blocks will cause worn or low spots to develop in their
lapping surfaces, they should be refinished from time to time.
It is good practice, where considerable lapping work is done, to devote some time each day to
refinishing the blocks. The quality of the finished work depends to a great degree on the condition
of the lapping surfaces of the blocks.

To finish the blocks, spread some 600 grit lapping powder of good quality on one of the blocks.
Place another block on top of this one and work the blocks together. See Figure 2-264. Alternate
the blocks from time to time. For example, assuming the blocks are numbered 1, 2, and 3, work 1
and 2 together, then 1 and 3, and finish by working 2 and 3 together. Continue this procedure
until all of the blocks are perfectly flat and free of imperfections.
1. Lapping Blocks
Figure 2-264 Refinishing Lapping Blocks
Imperfections are evident when the blocks are clean and held under a strong light. The blocks
are satisfactory when the entire surface is a solid dark gray. Bright or exceptionally dark spots
indicate defects. Additional lapping is required.
After the surface has been finished, remove the powder by rinsing the lapping blocks in Tech
Solv 340 and scrubbing with a bristle brush.
When not in use, store the lapping blocks in a close fitting wooden container to protect them
from damage and dust.
EFFECT OF PRE-IGNITION ON FUEL INJECTOR
Pre-ignition occurs when fuel or lubricating oil ignites in the combustion chamber before the
normal injection period. The piston compresses the burning mixture to excessive temperatures
and pressures, eventually causing injector spray tip burning and leading to injector failure in
other cylinders.
When pre-ignition occurs, remove all injectors and check for burned spray tips or enlarged spray
tip orifices.

Before replacing the injectors, check the engine for the cause of pre-ignition to avoid a recurrent
problem. Check for oil pull-over from the oil bath air cleaner, damaged blower housing gasket,
defective blower oil seals, high crankcase pressure, plugged air box drains, ineffective oil control
rings or dilution of the lubricating oil.
INJECTOR TIMING
If you suspect that a fuel injector is "out of time", the injector rack-to-gear timing may be checked
without disassembling the injector.
A hole located in the injector body, on the side opposite the identification tag, may be used
to visually determine whether or not the injector rack and gear are correctly timed. When the
rack is all the way in (full-fuel position), the flat side of the plunger will be visible in the hole,
indicating that the injector is "in time". If the flat side of the plunger does not come into full view
and appears in the "advanced" or "retarded" position, disassemble the injector and correct the
rack-to-gear timing. See Figure 2-265.
Figure 2-265 Injector Rack to Gear Timing
FUEL LINES
Flexible fuel lines are used to facilitate line connection leading to and from the fuel tank, and to
minimize the effects of vibration.
Ensure a restricted fitting (in head) of the proper size is used to connect the fuel return to the
fuel return manifold.

When installing fuel lines, DDC recommends that connections be tightened only enough to
prevent fuel leakage. Flared fuel line ends will become twisted or fractured by excessive
tightening. After all fuel lines are installed, run the engine long enough to determine whether or
not all connections are sufficiently tight. If leaks occur, tighten the connections only enough to
stop the leak. Check the filter cover bolts for tightness.
Locating Air Leaks in Fuel Lines
Air drawn into the fuel system may result in uneven running of the engine, stalling when idling,
or power loss. Poor engine operation is particularly noticeable at the lower engine speeds.
An opening in the fuel suction lines may be too small for fuel to pass through but may allow
appreciable quantities of air to enter.
Check for loose or faulty connections. Also check for improper fuel line connections, such as a
fuel pump suction line connected to the short fuel return line in the fuel tank. This will cause
the pump to draw air.
An air leak may be detected by observing the fuel filter contents after the filter is bled and the
engine is operated for fifteen to twenty minutes at a fairly high speed. If the filter canister is
full when loosened from its cover, there is no leak. If the filter canister is only partly full, this
indicates an air leak.
Pressurize Fuel System - Check for Leaks
Always check the fuel system for leaks after injector or fuel pipe replacement and any time the
fuel connections under the rocker cover are suspected of leaking. Failure to correct a serious fuel
leak in this area can lead to lube oil dilution and bearing and/or cylinder kit damage.
Prime and/or purge the engine fuel system before starting the fuel leak check. Prime the system
by blocking or disconnecting the line from the fuel pump, then apply fuel under pressure
(413-552 kPa or 60-80 lb/in.2 ) to the secondary filter inlet. If the system is to be purged of air
as well, allow the fuel to flow freely from the fuel return line until a solid stream without air
bubbles is observed.
Use one of the following methods to check for leaks.
Method 1.
Use when the engine has been operating 20-30 minutes.
1. After operating the engine, shut it off and remove the rocker covers.
2. Inspect the lube oil puddles that normally form where the fuel connectors join the cylinder
head and where the fuel pipes join the fuel pipe nuts.
NOTE:
If there are any leaks at these connections, the lube oil puddles will be smaller or thinner
than the puddles on the connectors that are not leaking.
3. If leaks are detected, disassemble, inspect and correct or replace the suspected part
(connector washer, connector, injector or jumper line). Test and re-inspect.
Method 2.

Use when the engine is not operating, such as during or after repairs.
1. Remove the rocker covers.
2. Pour lube oil over all fuel pipes and connectors which would normally be splashed with
oil during engine operation. This will cause oil puddles to form at the joining surfaces as
discussed in Method 1.
3. Block off the fuel return line, and disconnect the fuel pump supply line at the secondary
filter.
4. Install a pressure gage in the filter adaptor, then apply 413-552 kPa (60-80 lb/in.2 ) fuel to
the outlet side of the secondary filter with the inlets plugged. Severe leaks will show up
immediately. Minor leaks caused by nicks or burrs on sealing surfaces will take longer
to appear.
5. After maintaining 276-552 kPa (40-80 lb/in.2 ) for 20 to 30 minutes, carefully inspect the
puddles to reveal any suspected connectors.
6. Inspect and repair or replace connectors as necessary.
7. Test and inspect once more.
Method 3.
Use while the engine is operating at 400-600 RPM.
1. Apply an outside fuel source capable of 413-552 kPa (60-80 lb/in.2 ) to the outlet side of
the secondary filter.
2. Pour lube oil over jumper lines and connectors so that oil puddles form where lines and
connectors meet.
3. Install a valve and a pressure gage in the fuel return line.
4. With the engine idling, close the valve enough to raise the engine fuel pressure to 483 kPa
(70 lb/in.2 ).
5. After ten to twenty minutes, inspect the oil puddles to see if any have become smaller or
run off completely. The undiluted oil will hang the same as when the oil was poured on.
6. Repair and retest.
NOTE:
With the engine at rest, as in Method 2, all injectors will leak to some extent when
pressurized. Leaks occur because there is no place else for the pressurized fuel to
go. When the low and high pressure cavities in the injector are subjected to the high
test pressure, fuel is forced past the plunger into the rack and gear cavity, forming fuel
droplets at the rack and dripping off.
Slightly worn plungers may leak more under these conditions. This leakage will not occur while
the engine is running because of the dynamic and pressure conditions that exist.
If injectors are suspected of leaking and contributing to lube oil dilution, they should not be tested
by pressurizing the fuel system as in Method 2. Injectors should be removed from the engine and
tested for pressure-holding capability. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

Points to Remember:
Lube oil puddle inspection is the key to pressure testing the fuel system for internal leaks. This
test can be performed any time the rocker covers are removed, after the fuel pipes and connectors
have been splashed with oil and there is normal fuel pressure in the system. Weak or missing
puddles reveal the location of the leak.
All fuel leaks or spills during leak detection testing further dilute the lube oil, so the final in
maintenance of this type should include lube oil and lube oil filter changes.
Detecting Internal Fuel Leaks
Used lube oil analysis often identifies a potential source of engine trouble before it occurs.
A program such as the Detroit Diesel Oil Analysis Program is recommended for monitoring
crankcase oil in all engines.
One of the most serious conditions this test can uncover is the presence of excessive fuel in the
lubricating oil. Inadequate bearing surface lubrication caused by lube oil dilution is a potential
cause of engine malfunction and damage. Fuel should not exceed 2.5% maximum of oil volume.
Refer to section 5.2 or refer to Detroit Diesel publication 7SE270, "Engine Requirements -
Lubricating Oil, Fuel, and Filters" or refer to section 5.
While used lube oil analysis can indicate the presence of fuel in engine lubricating oil, other
methods must be used to determine its source. Two particularly effective methods involve the
use of dye additives.
NOTE:
Red LTO 1140 dye is a product of Chemserve Corp., 9505 Copland Ave., Detroit, MI
48209. Fluorescent dye J 28431-6, hand held black (ultraviolet) light J 28428-E, Injector
"Pop" Tester J 37050-A and Injector "Pop-N-Fixture" J 34760-150A (from set J 34760-B
are available from the Kent-Moore Corp., Service Tool Division, and can be ordered
through an authorized Detroit Diesel service outlet.
Detroit Diesel believes these to be a reliable source of tools. Additional tool manufacturers
may exist, but Detroit Diesel does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume any
responsibility for the products or tools from these other firms or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Fuel Leak Tests (Injectors Installed/Engine Off)
To locate a leaking injector, complete the following tests in the sequence shown and stop as soon
as the leaking injector is diagnosed. If a leaking injector is found, do not arbitrarily replace
more than that injector. Multiple injector malfunctions are rare on the same engine. Multiple
injector returns under WARRANTY will require service outlet verification using the J 34760-B
Pop-N-Fixture.
NOTE:
Fluorescent dye J 28431-6 is effective in fuel leak detection and should be the first
choice when preparing a test fuel mixture. However, if this fluorescent dye and a "Black
Light" are not available, Red LTO 1140 dye may be substituted.

Fuel Leak Tester
Since there is no known fuel leak tester available in the commercial market today, one must be
fabricated. Use the following guidelines to help create a fuel leak tester:
NOTE:
During fuel pressure testing (engine off, five minutes at 345 kPa or 50 lb/in.2), fuel leaks
will be evident at the injector body/plunger spring seat area. Factory tests have shown
that fuel accumulation at each injector, approximately a tablespoon, may be evident
during these tests. Evidence of fuel in this area is expected. When the injector cavities
are pressurized, fuel is forced between the injector body and plunger.
If an injector is removed and installed in the head, the injector nut O-ring seals should be replaced
with new parts.
1. Although test fuel can be pressurized by a variety of methods, Detroit Diesel recommends
an air/fuel accumulator design capable of safely withstanding a minimum pressure of
345 kPa (50 lb/in.2).
2. The tester should have a capacity of 2.5 gallons of test fuel and provide for
contamination-free test fuel storage when not in use.
3. Regulated shop air should be used to charge the accumulator tank and maintain a constant
test fuel pressure.
4. A shutoff-valve should be installed at the accumulator outlet line to start and stop
pressurization during the testing sequence.
NOTE:
The use of Red LTO 1140 dye is effective when bench pressure-testing complete
cylinder head assemblies or when pressure testing head assemblies on new or newly
overhauled operating engines that have new, clean lubricating oil. The red dye is most
visible when clean lubricating oil is used.
Prepare the Red LTO 1140 dye mixture as follows:

Mix 59 ml (two ounces) of Red LTO 1140 dye with 18.93 liters (five gallons) of clean No. 1 or
No. 2 diesel fuel in a clean container. The container should be marked "Test Fuel" to prevent
accidental use and be resealable to prevent contamination when not in use.
NOTE:
The use of J 28431-6 fluorescent dye and a "black light" (ultraviolet light) is preferable
when testing an engine that has been in service and has dark lubricating oil (from engine
operation). Use the following procedure:
Prepare the fluorescent dye mixture as follows:

Mix 118 ml (four ounces) of fluorescent dye additive J 28431-6 with 15.14 liters (four gallons) of
clean No. 1 or No. 2 diesel fuel in a clean container. The container should be marked "Test Fuel"
to prevent its accidental usage and be resealable to prevent contamination when not in use.

1. Fill the fuel system tester with the fluorescent or red dye fuel mixture (approximately 2.5
gallons).
EYE INJURY
goggles.
2. Charge the tester (outlet valve closed) with shop air regulated at 345 kPa (50 lb/in.2).
Connect the tester to the fuel system using either of the following two options based on ease
of access:
Option 1 - Remove the fuel line from the outlet side of the fuel pump, and connect the fuel
system tester line into this fuel hose fitting. This hook-up location will require that the fuel system
shutoff-valve remain in the open position during testing. About one gallon of test fuel will be
needed to charge the engine fuel system. Test fuel will not harm the fuel filters and may be left in
the fuel system at the conclusion of testing.
Option 2 - Remove the fuel line from the outlet side of the fuel bypass filter adaptor and connect
the fuel system tester line to this fuel hose fitting. About one-half gallon of test fuel will be
required to charge the engine fuel system from this hook-up location.
NOTE:
Place the fuel shutoff-valve (if installed) in the closed position before removing the fuel
line and leave closed until line is installed.
Continue testing as follows:

1. Remove the rocker cover, and disconnect the fuel outlet line at a convenient location
between the cylinder head and the fuel tank.
2. Install an appropriate size plug (loose) in the fuel outlet line end, and place it in a container
to catch the fuel while priming the cylinder head.
3. If equipped, Jake Brakes should be removed to allow visual injector examination during
fuel leak testing and, if necessary, during the on-engine injector "pop" test.
4. Slowly open the fuel tester shutoff-valve, and charge the cylinder head fuel galley.
5. When test fuel is flowing from the fuel return line and air has been purged from the
system, tighten the pipe plug at the engine fuel outlet line fitting.
6. With the fuel tester shutoff-valve completely open and the cylinder head fuel galley
pressurized to 345 kPa (50 lb/in.2 ), visually monitor the overhead using a black light for
five minutes.
NOTE:
If the test time goes beyond five minutes, the expected leaks at the injector plunger/body
will make it difficult to determine the faulty injector.

7. Pay special attention to any leaks at the injector body, stop valve cover, and injector
nut-to-body O-ring seals and fuel manifold plug.
8. Correct the cause of any abnormal fuel leaks.
NOTE:
Some fuel leakage may normally be encountered from the follower and/or rack on DDC
injectors while performing this test. It should not exceed the DDC guidelines for pressure
holding test and the specification for lube oil dilution (2.5%). Refer to section 2.2.4.3.
NOTE:
Injector plunger/body leaks at the follower spring area are normal and expected during
this test.
9. Bleed the pressure from the accumulator tank, and remove the pipe plug from the fuel
outlet line.
10. Install the fuel outlet line in the engine fuel system.
11. Disconnect the fuel tester, and install the fuel inlet line in the engine fuel system.
12. Completely open the engine fuel shutoff-valve, and ensure all fuel connections are tight.
13. Install the rocker cover, and start the engine to purge air from the fuel system.
14. If the engine fails to start, it may be necessary to prime the fuel system with a
commercially available fuel primer.
15. Since all fuel leaks or spills during leak detection testing dilute the lube oil, the
final in maintenance of this type should include lube oil and lube oil filter changes.
Test Injector "Pop" (on Engine) with Tool J 37050-A
Perform this test if injector leaks cannot be identified after pressure testing the cylinder head.
NOTE:
Energizing and stroking the suspected injector(s) will produce the internal fuel pressures
created during engine operation, increasing any abnormal fuel leaks. Refer to the
manufacturer's instructions supplied with the J 37050-A tester for set-up procedure.
Perform the test as follows:

1. Wipe down the overhead to remove any fuel left over from previous testing.
2. Using the fuel leak tester, repressurize the cylinder head. Energize each injector using
the J 37050-A tester.
3. Visually observe each injector for abnormal fuel leaks using a "black light" or look for
evidence of red dye if fuel is used.
4. Correct the cause of any abnormal fuel leaks.

Test Injector Pop-N-Fixture with J 34760-B
If multiple injectors are removed for fuel leaks, each should be bench tested using tool J 34760-B
Pop-N-Fixture. Fuel leaks may be easily observed while performing this bench test. Refer to
the manufacturers' instructions supplied with the J 34760-B Pop-N-Fixture for set-up and test
procedures.
Wash, wipe down, and allow injector to dry before mounting in test fixture. To aid fuel leak
detection, add fluorescent dye to the fixture's fuel reservoir and use a "black light" to examine
the injector during testing.
Since all fuel leaks or spills during leak detection testing dilute the lube oil, the final in
FUEL JUMPER LINE MAINTENANCE AND REUSE
Maintain fuel jumper lines as follows:
NOTICE:
To avoid severe engine damage resulting from fuel oil leaking
into the lubricating oil, follow proper procedures when removing,
handling, and installing fuel jumper lines (fuel pipes).
NOTICE:
The fuel jumper lines that carry fuel to and from the fuel injectors
must be handled and installed very carefully to prevent line
damage that can result in severe engine damage.
FIRE
To avoid injury from fire, contain and eliminate leaks of
flammable fluids as they occur. Failure to eliminate leaks
could result in fire.
The following are some of the conditions that can result in fuel jumper line leaks:
1. Improper handling and storage of jumper lines when servicing the engine can result in
physical damage and contamination.
2. Careless use of socket J 8932-B during removal or installation can cause a jumper line
to bend and permanently distort.
3. Reuse of a bent or distorted jumper line can result in excessive stress and cause the line to
crack or fracture at or above the flared ends of the jumper line, resulting in a fuel leak.
4. Excessive tightening of the jumper line nut will distort and fracture the flared end of
the jumper line, resulting in a fuel leak.

NOTICE:
DDC recommends NOT reusing the original fuel pipes. New
flared end fuel pipes should be installed. When installing flared
end fuel pipes, use fuel pipe nut wrench J 8932-B and "clicker"
type torque wrench J 24405 (calibrated in inch-pounds) to apply
proper torque and avoid damaging the fuel pipes. For torque
specifications, refer to General Information. Fuel leaks from
damaged or improperly installed fuel pipes can cause lube oil
dilution, that may result in serious engine damage.
NOTE:
To help ensure more consistent fastening, tighten fuel pipe nuts on jumper lines to the
single torque values. Refer to General Information. Use fuel line nut wrench J 8932-B
and "clicker" type torque wrench J 24405 (calibrated in inch-pounds).
NOTE:
Because of their low friction surface, Endurion-coated nuts on fuel jumper lines must
be tightened from 14.69-18.1 N·m (130-160 lb·in) torque, instead of the 18.3 N·m
(160 lb·in) required with uncoated nuts. To avoid possible confusion when tightening
jumper line nuts, do not mix lines with uncoated and Endurion-coated nuts on the same
cylinder head.
NOTE:
Jacobs Brake jumper lines and jumper lines used with load-limiting devices do not have
coated nuts. Tighten these to specifications listed in Table 2-14.
Jumper Line Usage Torque

Endurion-coated 14.69-18.1 N·m (130-160 lb·in.)
*Jacobs Brakes 13.6 N·m (120 lb·in.)
Load Limiting Devices 18.3 N·m (160 lb·in.)
* Not serviced. Available from Jacobs Manufacturing Company.
NOTICE:
When installing fuel jumper lines, do not overtighten. Damage
to the jumper line flares and connector seats can result from
excessive tightening, causing fuel to leak into the lubricating oil.
5. Damaged threads and flare seats on the injector and cylinder head jumper line connectors
can also result in fuel leaks.
6. Leaks can also occur at injector filter nut gaskets and/or cylinder head connector washers
due to distortion, damage or incorrect torque.

Checking for Fuel Leaks
The following procedure is recommended after fuel jumper line installation to determine if fuel
is leaking.
Always check the fuel system for leaks after injector or fuel jumper line replacement and any time
the fuel connections under the rocker cover are suspected of leaking. Failure to correct a fuel leak
in this area can lead to lube oil dilution. Use one of the following methods to check for leaks.
Method A
Use when the engine has been operating 20-30 minutes.
1. After operating the engine, shut it off and remove the rocker cover(s).
2. Inspect the lube oil puddles that normally form where the fuel connectors join the cylinder
head and where the fuel jumper lines join the fuel line nuts. If there are any leaks at
these connections, the lube oil puddles will be smaller or thinner than the puddles on the
connectors that are not leaking.
3. Disassemble, inspect, and correct or replace the suspected part (connector washer,
connector, injector or jumper line).
4. Test and inspect.
Method B
Use when the engine is not operating, such as during or after repairs.
1. Remove the rocker cover(s).
2. Pour clean lube oil over the fuel jumper lines and connectors that would normally be
splashed with oil during engine operation. This will cause oil puddles to form at the
joining surfaces as mentioned in Method A.
3. Plug the fuel return line at a convenient location (cylinder head or fuel tank, for example).
4. Disconnect the fuel pump supply line at the inlet of the secondary filter.
5. Connect an external source of pressurized fuel (414-552 kPa or 60-80 lb/in.2 ) to the
inlet of the secondary filter cover.
6. Install a pressure gage (0-689 kPa or 0-100 lb/in.2 ) at the outlet of the filter cover. Gage
installation can be accomplished by installing a "T" fitting between the filter cover and
outlet line or by removing the pipe plug at the outlet in the cover.
NOTE:
Using a gage will allow ready reference to the fuel pressure being maintained for this
test. Severe leaks are immediately visible and minor leaks take longer to appear. It
may be necessary to maintain fuel pressure for a period of 20 to 30 minutes in order
to find minor leaks.
7. Leaks may be repaired by replacing damaged parts or determining if the part is loose
and below torque specifications.

8. Test and inspect.
NOTE:
If injectors are suspected of leaking and contributing to lube oil dilution, do not pressurize
the fuel system as in Method B. Injectors should be removed from the engine and high
pressure tested. Refer to section 2.2.4.3.
METHOD C
Use while the engine is operating at 400-600 RPM.
1. Apply an outside fuel source capable of 414-552 kPa (60-80 lb/in.2 ) to the outlet side of
the secondary filter.
2. Pour lube oil over the fuel jumper lines and connectors so that oil puddles form where
jumper lines and connectors meet.
3. Install a valve and a pressure gage in the fuel return line.
4. With the engine idling, close the valve enough to raise the engine fuel pressure to 414-552
kPa (60-80 lb/in.2 ).
5. After 10-20 minutes, inspect the oil puddles to see if any have become smaller or run
off completely.
NOTE:
The undiluted oil will hang the same as when the oil was poured on.
6. Repair and test.
NOTE:
Slightly worn injector plungers may leak more under these conditions. This leakage will
not occur while the engine is running because of the dynamic and pressure conditions
that exist.
METHOD D
When testing an engine that has been in service, use the fluorescent dye and "black light" method
test. Proceed as follows:
1. Mix 4 oz. of fluorescent additive J 28431-6 with 15 liters (4 gallons) of clean diesel
fuel (No. 1 or No. 2) in a clean container.
NOTE:
The container should be marked "Test Fuel" and be resealable so it will not become
contaminated when not in use.
2. Isolate the engine fuel system so that the supply and return fuel lines are connected
only to the test fuel container. It will be necessary to intermittently check the fuel level
to maintain an adequate supply.
3. Warm up the engine by operating it at maximum no-load speed for approximately
15 minutes.

4. With the engine idling and the rocker cover removed, shine the black light over the head
assembly. The lube oil will show a dull blue. If a fuel leak is present, the fuel with the
fluorescent dye will glow a bright yellow.
5. After the cause of the fuel leak has been determined and corrected, wipe the area and fuel
connections clean. Check again with the black light.
6. When no leaks are present, assemble the unit with the original fuel lines and normal fuel
source. It is not necessary to change the fuel filters.
7. Run the engine to purge the air from the fuel system.
NOTE:
With the engine at rest, all injectors will leak to some extent when pressurized. The
leakage occurs because there is no other place for the pressurized fuel to go. When the
low and high pressure cavities in the injector are subjected to the high test pressure, fuel
is forced past the plunger into the rack and gear cavity. Result: Droplets of fuel form
at the rack and drip off. Special consideration must be given to this leakage. If it is
excessive, the injector should be removed and tested for pressure holding capabilities.
8. Use new gasket(s), and install the valve rocker cover.
NOTE:
Since all fuel leaks or spills during leak detection testing dilute the lube oil, the final
Points to Remember
1. Lube oil puddle inspection is one method of testing the fuel system for internal leaks. The
missing puddles show where the leaks are. This test can be performed any time the rocker
covers are removed, after the fuel jumper lines and connectors have been splashed with
clean lube oil and there is normal fuel pressure in the system.
2. All fuel leaks or spills during leak detection testing further dilute the lube oil.
3. The final maintenance step should include lube oil filter changes if a fuel leak is detected.
4. An oil level above the dipstick "full" mark or a decrease in lube oil consumption may
indicate internal fuel leaks.
5. Improper storage, handling or installation of jumper lines can cause fuel leaks, resulting in
lube oil dilution and severe engine damage.
Fuel Injector Tube Leak Sealing
Repair the fuel injector tube as follows:

1. Use a new injector tube swagging tool J 28611-A to repair a leaking fuel injector tube.
NOTE:
A fuel injector tube can be repaired at the seal ring without removing the cylinder head
from the cylinder block.

2. Before removing the fuel injector, pressurize the cooling system at the radiator to verify
the injector tube seal ring leak.
3. With the fuel injector removed, insert the swagging tool into the fuel injector hole tube.
NOTE:
The tool is tapered and flanged to prevent damage to the cylinder head of injector tube.
4. Hit the top of the tool moderately with a one pound hammer two or three times to seat
the tool.
NOTE:
This will cause the top edge of the injector hole tube to expand, increasing the crush on
the injector tube seal ring and seal the leak.
5. Install the fuel injector, and pressurize the cooling system to verify the leak has been
stopped.
6. Use the swagging tool, as stated above, to restore tension to the seal ring.
REMOVAL OF BOLT-ON TYPE FUEL STRAINER OR FUEL FILTER
Remove the bolt-on type fuel strainer or fuel filter as follows:

1. With the engine stopped, place a container under the strainer or filter. Open the drain cock.
2. After the fuel has drained, close the drain cock.
3. While supporting the canister, unscrew the filter base nut or bolt.
4. Remove the canister and element.
5. Remove and discard the filter base nut retaining ring, if used.
6. Remove and discard the filter element and canister gasket, the filter base nut or bolt gasket,
and, if used, the filter base bolt snap ring.
Cleaning of Bolt-On Type Fuel Strainer or Fuel Filter
Clean the fuel filter or fuel strainer as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Wash the canister thoroughly with clean fuel oil.

EYE INJURY
Inspection of Bolt-On Type Fuel Strainer or Fuel Filter
Inspect the bolt-on fuel filter or fuel strainer as follows:

1. Visually inspect the element seat and the retaining ring to ensure they have not slipped out
of place.
[a] If out of place, move the retaining ring to its proper position.
[b] If not out of place, continue inspection.
2. Press on the element seat to check the spring.
[a] If when released the seat does not return against the retaining ring, replace the filter
or strainer. Refer to section 2.22.3.
[b] If the spring returns, continue inspection.
NOTE:
The filter element, seat spring, and washer cannot be removed from the strainer canister.
If necessary, the canister assembly must be replaced. The filter canister components
are serviced.
3. Visually inspect the filter retainer seal for cracks or hardening.

[a] If cracked or hardened, replace the seal. Refer to section 2.22.3.
[b] If not cracked or hardened, reuse the seal or strainer.
Installation of Bolt-On Type Fuel Strainer or Fuel Filter
Install the bolt-on type fuel strainer or fuel filter as follows:

FIRE
vapors:
NOTE:
Thoroughly soak the density-type strainer element in clean fuel oil before installing. This
will expel any air trapped in the element and lead to a faster initial start.
1. Place a new element over the center stud, and push it against the element seat. Make sure
the drain cock is closed.
2. Fill the canister about two-thirds full with clean fuel oil.
3. Place a new canister gasket in the canister recess.
4. Place a new gasket on the filter base nut or bolt.
5. Place the canister and element in position under the filter base. Thread the cover bolt
(or nut) in the center stud.
6. With the canister and gasket properly positioned, tighten the filter base bolt or nut enough
to prevent fuel leakage.
7. Remove the pipe plug at the top of the cover, and finish filling the canister with fuel.
8. Fuel system primer J 5956 may be used to prime the entire fuel system.
9. Start the engine, and check the fuel system for leaks.
TAMPER-RESISTANT GOVERNOR FOR HIGHWAY VEHICLE ENGINES
A tamper-resistant double-weight limiting speed governor is provided for highway vehicle

engines.
This governor incorporates an adaptable high-speed spring housing to make unauthorized speed
setting changes extremely difficult.

The new governor spring housing has one inch of additional metal resembling two bosses cast on
the bolt head of the housing. See Figure 2-266.
1. Adjusting Pin 10. Plugs (2)

2. Spring Retainer 11. Bolt 3-1/4 in.
3. Locknut 12. Copper Washers (2)
4. Gap Adjusting Screw and Spring Cover 13. Tapered Pins (2)
5. Cap 14. Spring Housing
6. Low-Speed Spring 15. Gasket
7. Seat 16. Nut
8. Plunger 17. Set Screw
9. High-Speed Spring 18. Bolt 4-3/4 in.
Figure 2-266 Tamper Resistant Governor Components (Former)

These bosses are counterbored to accept the two bolts that hold the spring housing on the governor
housing and to allow for the installation of plugs over the bolt heads. See Figure 2-267. The plugs
are secured in the counterbores by tapered pins that, when driven in place, cannot be removed
when the governor is mounted on the blower. In order to remove the pins to get to the spring
housing retainer bolts, the complete governor must be removed from the blower.
1. Governor Housing 6. Copper Washer (2)

2. Allen Head Screw 1-1/4 in. 7. Bolt 3-1/4 in.
3. Gap Adjusting Screw and Spring Cover 8. Plug
4. Gasket 9. Spring Housing
5. Pin (2)
Figure 2-267 Tamper Resistant Governor Components (Current)

The governor is not tamper-resistant as furnished on an engine by the factory. The spring housing
retainer bolts are removable to permit governor adjustments that may be necessary before the
engine is placed in service following delivery. To make the governor tamper-resistant after initial
engine start-up, two plugs, two tapered pins and the gap adjusting screw and spring cover must
be added to the governor.
Disassemble the governor spring housing and spring assemblies as follows:
1. Remove the two bolts and washers securing the high-speed spring housing to the governor
housing. Withdraw the housing.
2. Loosen the high-speed spring retainer locknut with a spanner wrench.
3. Remove the high-speed spring retainer, idle speed adjusting pin and set screw, high-speed
spring, spring plunger, low-speed spring, spring seat and spring cap as an assembly.
5. Remove the governor housing cover and lever assembly. Remove and discard the spring
housing bolt retainer. It should be lying loose in the governor housing.
Install the gap adjusting pin and set screw, spring cover, and spring assemblies in the governor
housing as follows:
1. On the current tamper-resistant governor, insert the 1-1/4 in. allen head retaining screw
through the unthreaded clearance hole in the gap adjusting screw and spring cover.
2. Secure the cover to the inside of the governor housing. The retaining screw sets into a
counterbore in the current cover.
3. Turn the retaining screw into the housing until the cover is secure.
4. On the former tamper-resistant governor, place the gap adjusting screw and spring cover
in the governor housing with the threaded bolt hole up and in position to receive the
spring and plunger assembly.
6. Thread the idle speed adjusting screw into the threaded end of the plunger approximately
8. Affix a new spring housing gasket to the governor housing.
9. Insert the springs, plunger, and retainer into the governor opening as an assembly and
through the center of the gap adjusting screw and spring cover. The inner diameter of the
cover should pilot on the outer diameter of the retainer.
10. Thread the retainer into the housing approximately one inch.
Perform the governor adjustments. Refer to section 12.4. Install the governor spring housing
as follows:
1. Position the spring housing on the governor housing. On vehicles using a frontal air
system, remove material from the air cleaner adaptor boss to provide clearance for the
governor spring housing.

2. On the current tamper-resistant governor, insert one of the 3-1/4 in. attaching bolts with
copper washer through the top bolt hole in the spring housing. Thread it into the top hole
on the outside of the governor housing. Tighten the bolt.
3. On the former tamper-resistant governor, insert the 4-3/4 in. attaching bolt with copper
washer through the top bolt hole in the spring housing. Thread it into the threaded hole in
the former gap adjusting screw and spring cover. Tighten the bolt.
4. Thread the 3-1/4 in. attaching bolt with lock washer (current and former governors) into
the bottom hole in the spring and governor housings.
5. Coat the threads of the attaching bolts and the retaining screw with a Loctite sealant, or
equivalent, to prevent loosening. Tighten each bolt to 18-24 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
Install the tamper-resistant plugs and pins in the counterbores of the spring housing as follows:
1. Install the top plug with the drilled passage in the vertical position and the larger opening
up.
2. Install the bottom plug with the drilled passage horizontal and the larger opening away
from the blower.
3. Drive the tapered pins, small end first, into the drilled passages in the top and side of the
spring housing until the pin is below flush and firmly in place.
Most limiting speed governors on engines already in service can be converted to the
tamper-resistant setup as follows:
1. Remove the two bolts and washers securing the high-speed spring housing to the governor
housing. Withdraw the housing.
2. Loosen the high-speed spring retainer locknut with a spanner wrench.
3. Remove the high-speed spring retainer, idle speed adjusting pin and set screw, high-speed
spring, spring plunger, low-speed spring, spring seat and spring cap as an assembly.
5. Remove the governor housing cover and lever assembly.
6. Drill out the 5/16 in.-18 tapped hole in the governor housing at the spring housing top
retaining bolt position to 11/32 in. diameter.
7. Remove all drilled particles from the inside of the governor housing.
Install the current gap adjusting screw and spring cover and the high and low-speed spring
assemblies, replacing the original retainer with the new longer retainer in the governor housing
as follows:
1. On the current tamper-resistant governor, insert the 1-1/4 in. allen head retaining screw
through the unthreaded clearance hole in the gap adjusting screw and spring cover.
2. Secure the cover to the inside of the governor housing. The retaining screw sets into a
counterbore in the current cover.
3. Turn the retaining screw into the housing until the cover is secure.

4. On the former tamper-resistant governor, place the gap adjusting screw and spring cover
in the governor housing with the threaded bolt hole up and in position to receive the
spring and plunger assembly.
6. Thread the idle speed adjusting screw into the threaded end of the plunger approximately
8. Affix a new spring housing gasket to the governor housing.
9. Insert the springs, plunger, and retainer into the governor opening as an assembly and
through the center of the gap adjusting screw and spring cover.
NOTE:
The inner diameter of the cover should pilot on the outer diameter of the retainer.
10. Thread the retainer into the housing approximately one inch.
11. Perform the governor adjustments. Refer to section 12.4.
12. Replace the original spring housing with the new spring housing.
13. Install the new housing and governor housing cover on the governor housing.
14. Install the tamper-resistant plugs and pins in the counterbores of the spring housing.
NOTE:
If the spring housing of a former tamper-resistant governor is removed for any reason,
the gap adjusting screw and spring cover will fall into the governor housing. Remove the
governor cover and lever assembly and ensure gap adjusting screw and spring cover is
secured by the 5/16 in.-18 x 4-3/4 in. bolt after the spring housing is installed.
MODIFICATION OF GOVERNOR HOUSING TO ACCEPT CURRENT

TAMPER-RESISTANT GAP ADJUSTING SCREW AND SPRING COVER
A former governor housing can be reworked to accept the new tamper-resistant gap adjusting
screw and spring cover. Kent-Moore master thread repair kit J 26520 can be used.
With this procedure, two threaded inserts are installed in the governor housing, one from the
inside and one from the outside. This will allow the new retaining screw to be installed on the
inside of the governor housing and the new spring housing upper 3-1/4 in. bolt to be installed
from the outside.
1. Remove the governor cover, high-speed spring housing and spring pack.
2. Apply a thick coat of grease to the inside of the housing. Fit an oil soaked rag through the
spring pack hole, using the grease as a seal between the housing and the rag.
3. Drill the upper high-speed spring housing bolt hole to 13/32 in. Tap the hole with a 7/16
in.-14 tap.

4. Remove the rag, making sure all of the chips are out of the housing. Wipe the grease
from the housing.
5. Thread a 5/16 in.-18 insert by hand from each side until the lock tabs bottom.
NOTE:
The inside of the governor housing cast boss, where the drill breaks through, may need
to be filed flat. This is to prevent the gap adjusting screw and spring cover from tilting out
of position when the retaining screw is tightened.
REWORK GOVERNOR HOUSING
The engine mechanical governor housing can be reworked when wear occurs at the boss that
holds either the upper or lower end of the operating lever shaft.

See Figure 2-268. Repair can be made by adding a bushing to the worn boss as follows:
1. Governor Housing 2. Bushing
Figure 2-268 Reworking Governor Housing
1. See Figure 2-268, and bore out the hole so that the repair bushing fits tightly
(12.6746–12.7127 mm or 0.4990–0.5005 in. diameter).
2. Shorten the bushing to a length of 9.652 mm (0.380 in.).
3. Press the bushing in the hole flush to 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) below the surface of the
housing boss.
4. Ream the bushing to 9.543–9.566 mm (0.3757 in.-0.3766 in.) diameter, using a 3/8 in.
reamer.

5. After assembling the governor, check for shaft freeness.
NOTE:
Careful workmanship is necessary to maintain proper geometry and fit within the
governor.

PRE-INSTALLATION OF A BARBER-COLEMAN ELECTRONIC GOVERNOR
Before a Barber-Coleman electronic governor is installed on an engine previously equipped with

a hydraulic governor, the vertical driven gear, bearing, and gear sleeve and the horizontal drive
gear, shaft and bearing must be removed from the governor drive housing. See Figure 2-269.
1. Drive Shaft 8. Bushing

2. Driven Gear 9. Seal Ring
3. Shaft 10. Flat Washer
4. Key 11. Snap Ring
5. Control Link Lever 12. Drive Gear
6. Lever Pin 13. Bearing
7. Driven Gear Sleeve 14. Drive Housing
Figure 2-269 Governor Drive Assembly (6V and 8V Engines)

These components serve no useful purpose when the hydraulic governor is replaced with the
electronic governor and will cause severe engine damage if not removed. Because the horizontal
drive shaft is splined to the blower rotor shaft, both governor shafts will continue to rotate
when the engine is operated. With the hydraulic governor removed, however, the horizontal
and vertical shafts and bearings will no longer receive adequate support or lubrication and will
quickly wear out.
NOTICE:
Do not remove only the vertical shaft and bearing. If the
horizontal drive shaft and bearing assembly is left in the
governor drive housing, the shaft will move freely back and forth
during engine operation. This is due to the absence of load on
the bevel gear that would normally keep the horizontal shaft in
position. The rapid rotation and back-and-forth movement of the
horizontal drive shaft can cause severe damage to the governor
drive housing.
Follow this procedure before installing a Barber-Coleman electronic governor:

1. Remove the hydraulic governor drive. Refer to section 2.30.2 for 6V and 8V engines or
refer to section 2.30.3 for 12V and 16V engines.
2. Remove the driven gear, bearing and gear sleeve, and the drive gear, shaft and bearing
from the drive housing.
3. Install the governor drive housing and all parts previously removed, except the drive and
driven gears and related components. Refer to section 2.30.8 on 6V and 8V engines or
refer to section 2.30.9 for 12V and 16V engines.
4. Install the Barber-Coleman electronic governor per the manufacturers' instructions, and
perform the engine tune-up. Refer to section 12.1.

EXCEPTIONS TO STANDARD BOLT AND NUT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
The exceptions to the standard torque specifications are listed in Table 2-15.
Application Thread lb·ft lb·in N·m

Control Tube Bracket
1/4-20 10-12 - 14-16
Bolts
Governor Weight
Shaft Bearing 5/16-24 15-19 - 20-26
Retaining Bolt
Variable Speed
Spring Lever Set 5/16-24 12-15 - 16-20
Screw
Air Inlet Housing
Adaptor-to-Blower 3/8-16 16-20 - 22-27
Housing Bolt
Air Inlet Housing-to-
3/8-16 16-20 - 22-27
Adaptor Bolt
Injector Clamp Bolt 3/8-16 20-25 - 27-34
Fuel Pipe Nut
3/8-24 - 130 14.69
(Endurion Coated)
Fuel Pipe Nut
3/8-24 - 160 18.3
(Uncoated)
Fuel Pipe Nut (Load
3/8-24 - 160 18.3
Limiting Device)
Fuel Pipe Nut
3/8-24 - 120 13.6
(Jacobs Brake)
Blower End
Plate-to-Cylinder 7/16-24 40-45 - 54-61
Block Bolts
*Rocker Arm Bracket
1/2-13 90-100 - 122-136
Bolts
Injector Filter Caps 5/8-24 65-75 - 88-102
Injector Nut 15/16-24 75-85 - 102-115
*102-115 N·m (75-85 lb·ft) torque on the two bolts attaching a load limit or power control screw bracket (if used) to the rocker
arm shaft brackets.
Table 2-15 Exception to Standard Bolt and Nut Torque Specifications

3 LUBRICATING SYSTEM
Section Page
3.1 LUBRICATION SYSTEM ......................................................................... 3-3

3.2 LUBRICATING OIL PUMP (6V AND 8V ENGINES) ................................ 3-11
3.3 LUBRICATING OIL PUMP (12V AND 16V ENGINES) ............................ 3-35
3.4 LUBRICATING OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE ........................... 3-49
3.5 LUBRICATING OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE .................................... 3-58
3.6 LUBRICATING OIL FILTERS ................................................................... 3-67
3.7 LUBRICATING OIL COOLER (PLATE TYPE) ......................................... 3-79
3.8 LUBRICATING OIL COOLER (TUBE TYPE) ........................................... 3-93
3.9 LUBRICATING OIL COOLER BYPASS VALVE ....................................... 3-111
3.10 OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK .............................................................................. 3-116
3.11 OIL PAN ................................................................................................... 3-119
3.12 VENTILATING SYSTEM .......................................................................... 3-126
3.1 LUBRICATION SYSTEM
The lubricating system consists of the following:

□ Oil Pump
□ Full-flow Oil Filter
□ Oil Cooler
□ Oil Pressure Regulator Valve
□ Oil Pressure Relief Valve
□ Oil Cooler Bypass Valve

The following schematic illustrates the flow of oil through a typical 6V or 8V-92 engine
lubrication system, including the various components such as the oil pump, full-flow oil filter, oil
cooler, pressure regulator and bypass valve. See Figure 3-1.
1. Oil Filter 7. Oil Filter Adaptor

2. Oil Filter Bypass Valve 8. Oil Cooler Core
3. Oil Cooler Adaptor 9. Oil Cooler Bypass Valve
4. Cylinder Block 10. Pressure Relief Valve
5. Front Cover and Oil Pump Assembly 11. Pressure Regulator Valve
6. Oil Pump Inlet Screen
Figure 3-1 Schematic Diagram of Typical 6V and 8V Lubrication Systems

On 6V and 8V engines, the oil pump is placed in the crankshaft front cover and consists of a
pair of spur gears, one large and one small, which mesh together and ride in a cavity inside the
crankshaft front cover. The large gear is concentric with and splined to a pump drive hub on the
front end of the crankshaft. The pump driven gear is much smaller and runs on a bushing and
hardened steel shaft pressed into the crankshaft cover. See Figure 3-2.
1. Driven Gear Shaft 8. Drive Gear

2. Washer 9. Retaining Plate
3. Long Bolt 10. Retaining Plate Bolt
5. Short Bolt 12. Key
6. Crankshaft Front Cover 13. Driven Gear
7. Gasket
Detroit Diesel has two-cycle, left and right hand turning oil pumps.
Figure 3-2 Front Mounted Lubricating Oil Pump (6V and 8V Engines)

As the gears revolve, a vacuum is created on the inlet side of the pump and draws the oil from
the oil pan, through the intake screen and pipe, to the oil pump, where it is pressurized. The oil
passes from the pump under pressure, into a short gallery in the cylinder block, and to the oil
cooler adaptor plate. At the same time, oil from the pump is directed to a spring-loaded pressure
relief valve mounted on the cylinder block. This valve discharges excess oil directly to the oil
sump when the pump pressure exceeds 724 kPa (105 lb/in.2).
From the oil cooler adaptor plate, the oil passes into the full-flow filter, through the oil cooler, and
back into the cylinder block. A short vertical oil gallery and a short diagonal oil gallery carry the
oil to the main longitudinal oil gallery through the middle of the block. Valves are also provided
to bypass the oil filter and oil cooler should either one become plugged.
Stabilized lubricating oil pressure is maintained in the engine at all speeds, regardless of the oil
temperature, by means of a pressure regulator valve, located at the end of a vertical oil gallery
and connected to the main oil gallery. The vertical gallery is located at the front of the cylinder
block on the side opposite the cooler. When the oil pressure at the valve exceeds 345 kPa (50
lb/in.2), the regulator valve opens, discharging oil into the sump.
From the main oil gallery, the pressurized oil flows through drilled passages to each main bearing,
and passes to an adjacent pair of connecting rods through grooves in the unloaded halves of
the main and connecting rod bearings and drilled passages in the crankshaft. The rifle-drilled
connecting rods carry oil from the rod bearings to the piston pin bushing.
At the rear of the block, two diagonally drilled oil passages, which intersect the main oil gallery,
carry oil to the two rear camshaft end bearings. Oil is conducted through the rifle-drilled camshaft
to the intermediate and front end bearings. Oil from the camshaft intermediate bearings is directed
against the camshaft lobes and cam rollers, which run in an oil bath. Oil from the intermediate
bearings provides lubrication to the cam lobes immediately after starting the engine, when the
oil is cold and before camshaft bearing oil flow and oil drainage from the cylinder head have
had time to build up.
The diagonally drilled oil passage on the right side at the rear of the block intersects with a
vertical passage to carry oil to the right bank cylinder head. A short gallery intersects with this
diagonal passage to lubricate the idler gear bearing. Another gallery, intersecting the diagonal
passage from the camshaft at the front of the block, supplies oil to the left bank cylinder head.
NOTICE:
Do not use the oil gallery on the upper front left cylinder block
bank for an oil supply or pressure take-off. This gallery intersects
the cylinder head oil supply gallery. If used, it will reduce oil
pressure to the rocker arm assemblies and eventually cause
engine damage.
Drilled passages, intersecting longitudinal galleries parallel to the camshafts, lead to the blower
and supply oil for the blower drive gears and bearings.
Oil from the right-bank camshaft front end bearing lubricates the water pump drive gear and
bearings and the front camshaft gear.

The oil overflow from the camshaft pocket spilling into the gear train compartment and splash
from the oil pan lubricate the gear train. Some oil spills into the gear train compartment from
the camshaft rear end bearings, the blower drive gear bearing, and the idler gear bearing. The
blower drive gear bearing is lubricated through an external pipe from the blower rear end plate to
the blower drive support.
A longitudinal oil passage on the camshaft side of each cylinder head, which connects to the main
oil gallery in the cylinder block, lubricates the valve and injector operating mechanism. Oil
from this passage enters the drilled rocker arm shafts through the lower end of the rocker shaft
bolts and rocker shaft brackets. Excess oil from the rocker arms lubricates the exhaust valves
and cam followers.

A gear-type pressure pump, mounted to the number seven and eight bearing caps (12V engine)
or number nine and ten main bearing (16V engine) are gear-driven from the rear end of the
crankshaft that circulates the lubricating oil. See Figure 3-3. On some engines, the oil pump is
mounted to the front on the number one and two main bearing caps and gear-driven by an oil
pump drive gear bolted to the front crankshaft gear.
1. Oil Pump 4. Oil Pressure Relief Valve

2. Oil Pump Outlet Tube 5. Oil Pressure Regulator Valves
3. Junction Block 6. Oil Pump Inlet
Figure 3-3 Typical Lubricating Oil Pump Rear Mounted (12V Engines)
An oil pressure relief valve, mounted on the junction block, bypasses excess oil directly into
the oil sump when the pressure on the outlet side of the pump exceeds approximately 827 kPa
(120 lb/in.2).
Since bypass valves are provided in the oil coolers and the oil filters, the oil will bypass the
coolers or filters if they become plugged.

Stabilized lubricating oil pressure is maintained within the engine at all speeds, regardless of the
oil temperature, by two pressure regulator valves located at the end of the vertical oil galleries.
See Figure 3-4. When the oil pressure at the regulator valves exceeds 345 kPa (50 lb/in.2), the
valves open, discharging excess oil back into the oil pump.
1. Oil Filter Bypass Assembly 4. Oil Pressure Relief Valve

2. Oil Cooler Bypass Valve 5. Engine Oil Pump
3. Oil Pressure Regulator Valve
Figure 3-4 Schematic Diagram of Typical 16V Lubrication System
Use the correct lubricating engine oil. Refer to section 5.2 and refer to section 13.5.1. Change the
oil, and replace the oil filter elements at recommended intervals to ensure trouble-free lubrication
and longer engine life. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for oil leak inspection
procedures.

The oil level should never be allowed to drop below the low mark on the dipstick. Overfilling
the crankcase may contribute to abnormal oil consumption, high oil temperature, and result in
oil leaking past the crankshaft rear oil seal.
To obtain the true oil level, the engine should be stopped and sufficient time allowed for the oil
to drain back from the various engine parts. If more oil is required, add enough to bring the
level to the full mark on the dipstick.
Thorough lubrication system flushing is required at times. Should the engine lubrication
system become contaminated with an ethylene glycol base antifreeze solution or other soluble
material,refer to section 13.12.4 for the recommended cleaning procedures.
NOTE:
DDC uses red dye to detect lube oil system leaks during engine testing. There may be
some residual dye remaining in new engine lube oil systems. This dye should quickly
disperse after the first few hours of engine operation.

3.2 LUBRICATING OIL PUMP (6V AND 8V ENGINES)
On 6V and 8V engines, the gear type lubricating oil pump is mounted in the crankshaft front cover,
which also functions as the oil pump body. See Figure 3-5. The pump consists of two spur gears,
which mesh and rotate in a cavity inside the crankshaft cover. The pump drive gear is concentric
with and splined to a pump drive hub on the front end of the crankshaft. The pump driven gear
and bushing assembly rotates on a hardened steel shaft. One end of the driven gear shaft is pressed
into the crankshaft front cover and the other end is supported in the oil pump gear retaining plate.
1. Oil Pump 4. Oil Pump Inlet Pipe and Screen

2. Crankshaft Cover 5. Oil Pressure Relief Valve
3. Oil Pressure Regulator
Figure 3-5 Typical Lubricating Oil Pump Mounting (6V or 8V Engines)

To standardize and provide more oil pressure at lower engine speeds, the 8V oil pump is used on
6V engines (effective with 6VF-51331). The 6V and 8V oil pumps are interchangeable, and only
the 8V pump is serviced. Only the component parts of the 6V oil pump are serviced.
On a main bearing cap mounted pump, the gear-type scavenging oil pump used on the 6V and 8V
engines is mounted on the No. 1 and 2 main bearing caps. An oil pump drive gear, mounted on
the crankshaft, drives the oil pump. See Figure 3-6.
1. Oil Pump Driven Gear 3. Oil Pump

2. Scavenging Pump
Figure 3-6 Oil Pump Mounting (6V and 8V Engines)
An opening is provided on the oil pump body for mounting an oil pump inlet pipe and screen
assembly. A scavenging oil pump inlet pipe and screen is mounted on the oil pump scavenging
body and is supported with brackets to a main bearing cap.

Oil is drawn by suction from the oil pan through the oil pump inlet screen and pipe into the
oil pump, where it is pressurized.
NOTE:
The greatest amount of wear in the oil pump is imposed on the internal drive and driven
gears. Keep the lubricating oil clean and acid-free to minimize wear. If dirt and sludge
accumulate in the lubricating system, rapid gear wear will occur. Properly service the oil
filters to increase the gear life.
3.2.1 Repair or Replacement of Lubricating Oil Pump (6V and 8V

Engines)

See Figure 3-7.

Figure 3-7 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Lubricating Oil Pump

(6V and 8V)
3.2.2 Removal of Front Mounted Oil Pump (6V and 8V Engines)
Remove the front mounted oil pump as follows:


3. Remove the oil pan gasket, and gasket material from the oil pan and the cylinder block.
4. Remove the bolts and lock washers securing the oil inlet pipe and screen support to the
crankshaft front cover and the main bearing cap.
5. Remove the oil inlet pipe and screen support as an assembly.
6. Remove the crankshaft front cover from the engine. Refer to section 1.14.2.
7. Remove the oil pump drive hub and key from the crankshaft.
3.2.3 Removal of Main Bearing Cap Mounted Oil Pump(6V and 8V

Engines)
Remove the main bearing cap mounted oil pump as follows:

1. Remove the drain plug from the oil pan, and drain the oil. Refer to section 13.5.2.
2. Remove the oil pan bolts, and remove the oil pan. Refer to section 3.11.2.
3. Remove the gasket from the oil pan and the cylinder block.
4. Remove the two mounting bolts and lock washers, and remove the oil pressure regulator
valve from the cylinder block.
5. Remove the four bolts and lock washers that attach the oil pressure relief valve to the oil
pump body and cylinder block.
6. Remove the two self-locking bolts, and lift the screen off the inlet pipe.
7. Remove the two bolts, and remove the oil pump inlet pipe.
8. Remove the bolts and lock washers that attach the support brackets to the oil pump
scavenging inlet pipe and the main bearing cap.
9. Remove the two bolts and lock washers that attach the oil pump scavenging inlet pipe
and baffle plate to the scavenging pump body. Remove the scavenging inlet pipe and
baffle plate.
10. Remove the nuts and lock washers that attach the oil pump to the main bearing caps.
11. Remove the oil pump assembly.
3.2.4 Removal of the Oil Pump Drive Gear (6V and 8V Engines)
With the oil pan and lubricating oil pump removed, remove the oil pump drive gear from the
crankshaft as follows:
1. Remove the crankshaft front cover. Slide the oil slinger off the crankshaft.
2. If required, use a suitable puller to pull the oil pump drive gear off the front end of the
crankshaft.
3. Remove the Woodruff key from the crankshaft.

4. Slide the oil pump drive gear spacer off the end of the crankshaft.
3.2.5 Disassembly of Front Mounted Oil Pump (6V and 8V Engines)
Disassemble the front mounted oil pump as follows:

1. Remove the self-locking bolts securing the oil pump gear retaining plate to the crankshaft
front cover. Remove the retaining plate.

2. Remove the oil pump drive and driven gears from the crankshaft front cover. See Figure
3-8.
1. Driven Shaft 8. Drive Gear

3. Long Bolt 10. Retaining Plate Bolt
5. Short Bolt 12. Key
7. Gasket

3.2.6 Disassembly of Main Bearing Cap Mounted Oil Pump(6V and 8V

Engines)
Disassemble the main bearing cap mounted oil pump as follows: See Figure 3-9.
1. Long Bolt (2) 10. Keys (4)

2. Washer 11. Scavenging Pump Body
3. Pump Drive-Driven Gear 12. Driven Gear (Scavenging)
4. Short Bolt 13. Drive Gear (Scavenging)
5. Lock Washer 14. Spacer
6. Cover 15. Driven Gear
7. Gasket 16. Drive Gear
8. Pump Body 17. Shims (2)
9. Drive Shaft
Figure 3-9 Main Bearing Cap Mounted Oil Pump (6V and 8V Engines)

NOTE:
Carefully observe the position of all parts, including the oil pump inlet pipe and the
scavenging oil pump inlet pipe during disassembly to facilitate oil pump assembly.
1. Remove the four self-locking bolts that attach the scavenging pump body to the oil pump
body. Remove the scavenging pump body.
2. Remove the scavenging pump drive and driven gears from the oil pump drive and driven
shafts.
3. Remove the Woodruff key from the drive shaft, and slide the spacer off the shaft end.
4. Withdraw the driven shaft and driven gear as an assembly from the oil pump body.
5. Remove the bolt and special washer securing the oil pump driven gear to the drive shaft.
Remove the gear.
6. Withdraw the drive shaft and gear as an assembly from the oil pump body.
7. Press the oil pump drive shaft out of the oil pump gear. Remove the Woodruff key from
the shaft.
8. Press the driven shaft out of the driven gear. Remove the Woodruff key from the shaft.
9. Remove the cover and gasket from the oil pump body.
3.2.6.1 Cleaning of Oil Pump (6V and 8V Engines)
Clean the oil pump as follows:
FIRE
vapors:

EYE INJURY

3. Remove the screen and cover from the oil inlet pipe assembly.
FIRE
vapors:
EYE INJURY

6. Assemble the screen, cover, and oil intake pipe.
3.2.6.2 Inspection of Front Mounted Oil Pump (6V and 8V Engines)
Inspect the front mounted oil pump as follows:

1. Visually inspect the oil pump gear cavity for wear or scoring.

[a] If worn or scored, replace the cover. If necessary, replace the front oil seal.
[b] If not worn or scored, proceed with inspection.
2. Inspect the driven gear shaft for wear or scoring.
[a] If excessively worn or scored, replace the driven gear shaft. Refer to section 3.2.7.
NOTE:
When a new shaft is pressed in place, the shaft shoulder must be flush to 0.51 mm
(0.020 in.) below the finished face of the crankshaft front cover.
[b] If not worn or scored, continue inspection.

3. Inspect the oil pump gear teeth and the pump drive hub for wear or scoring.
[a] If worn or scored, replace the gear and hub. Refer to section 3.2.7.
[b] If not worn or scored, continue inspection.
4. Inspect the drive and driven gear bushing for wear.
[a] If worn, replace both the drive and driven gears. They are only serviced as a set.
NOTE:
The clearance between the driven gear bushing and the shaft should be 0.025-0.0635
mm (0.001-0.0025 in.) with new parts. With used parts, the maximum clearance allowed
is 0.089 mm (0.0035 in.).
[b] If not worn, proceed with inspection.

5. Inspect the oil pump gear retaining plate inner face for scoring and wear.
[a] If scored or worn, replace the retaining plate. Refer to section 3.2.10.
NOTE:
Whenever the oil pump is removed for service, remove and inspect the oil pressure
regulator and oil pressure relief valves. Refer to section 3.4.2 and refer to section 3.5.2.
[b] If not scored or worn, reuse the parts.
3.2.6.3 Inspection of Main Bearing Cap Mounted Oil Pump(6V and 8V

Engines)
Inspect the main bearing cap mounted oil pump as follows:

1. Visually inspect the internal gear cavity of the pump body and scavenger pump (if used)
for wear or scoring.
[a] If the pump body is excessively worn or scored, it must be replaced. Refer to section
3.2.11.

2. Inspect the pump cover or spacer between the pump and scavenger pump bodies for wear.
[a] If worn, replace the pump cover and spacer. Refer to section 3.2.11.
[b] If not worn, reuse the parts.
3. Inspect the bushings in the pump body (or scavenging body) and cover.
[a] If bushings are excessively worn, replace the pump body (or scavenging body) and
cover. Refer to section 3.2.11.
NOTE:
Bushings must be properly located and positioned. See Figure 3-10. The gear and
bushing bores must be concentric within 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) total indicator reading. The
shaft-to-bushing clearance with new parts is 0.0381-0.0813 mm (0.0015–0.0032 in.).

Figure 3-10 Diameter and Location of Bushing in Oil Pump(6V and 8V

Engines)
[b] If bushings are within specifications, reuse the parts.

4. Inspect the gear teeth for scoring or wear.

NOTICE:
The use of excessively worn gears will result in low engine oil
pressure. This, in turn, may lead to serious engine damage.
[a] If gear teeth are excessively scored or worn, they must be replaced. Refer to section
1.29.8.
[b] If gear teeth are not scored or worn, they may be reused.
5. Inspect the pump shafts and keyways for wear.
[a] If worn, replace the shafts. Refer to section 3.2.8.
[b] If not worn, the shafts may be reused.
6. Inspect the external pump drive-driven gear for wear.
[a] If worn, the gear must be replaced. Refer to section 1.29.8.
[b] If not worn, the gear may be reused.

3.2.7 Assembly of Front Mounted Oil Pump (6V and 8V Engines)
Assemble the front mounted oil pump as follows: See Figure 3-11.
1. Driven Shaft 8. Drive Gear

3. Long Bolt (2) 10. Retaining Plate Bolt
5. Short Bolt (2) 12. Key
7. Gasket

USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lubricate the oil pump gears and the driven gear shaft with engine oil.
2. Install the gears in the crankshaft front cover.
3. Install the gear retaining plate, and secure it to the crankshaft front cover with eight
5/16 in.-18 x 3/4 in. self-locking bolts. Tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
Due to the close clearance between the oil pump and the crankshaft, use self-locking
bolts.
4. Install the key in the crankshaft, and slide the oil pump drive hub in place.
3.2.8 Assembly of Main Bearing Cap Mounted Oil Pump(6V and 8V

Engines)
Assemble the main bearing cap mounted oil pump as follows: See Figure 3-12.

1. Long Bolt (2) 10. Keys (4)

2. Washer 11. Scavenging Pump Body
3. Pump Drive-Driven Gear 12. Driven Gear (Scavenging)
4. Short Bolt 13. Drive Gear (Scavenging)
5. Lock Washer 14. Spacer
6. Cover 15. Driven Gear
7. Gasket 16. Drive Gear
8. Pump Body 17. Shims (2)
9. Drive Shaft
Figure 3-12 Main Bearing Cap Mounted Oil Pump (6V and 8V Engines)

USED ENGINE OIL

1. Insert the Woodruff key in the oil pump drive shaft keyway, and apply a light coat of
engine oil to the shaft.
2. Press the drive shaft into the oil pump drive gear. Position the gear 192.278 mm (7.570 in.)
from the end of the drive shaft, using tool J 22398. See Figure 3-13.
1. Drive Shaft 2. Driven Shaft
Figure 3-13 Location of Oil Pump Gear on Shaft
USED ENGINE OIL

3. Insert the Woodruff key in the keyway of the driven shaft. Apply a light coat of engine
oil to the shaft.
4. Press the shaft in the driven gear. Position the gear 152.654 mm (6.010 in.) from the end
of the shaft using tool J 22398.

5. Install the drive shaft and gear assembly in the oil pump body.
6. Install the oil pump driven gear on the drive shaft.
7. Place the special washer on the bolt with the crown side toward the bolt head, and tighten
the bolt to 81-85 N·m (60-65 lb·ft) torque.
8. Install the driven shaft and gear assembly in the pump body.
9. Slide the spacer on the shafts. Insert the two remaining Woodruff keys in the drive shaft.
10. Slide the scavenging pump gears on the shafts.
NOTE:
The scavenging pump drive and driven gears must be in the same relative position
as the oil pump drive and driven gears.
11. Secure the scavenging pump body to the oil pump body with four self-locking bolts.
12. Place a new gasket on the oil pump body side cover, and fasten it to the pump body with
two bolts and lock washers.
NOTE:
The oil pump gears must turn freely after assembly. Any bind in the pump must be
eliminated before it is installed on the engine.
3.2.9 Installation of Front Mounted Oil Pump (6V and 8V Engines)
Install the front mounted oil pump as follows:

1. Install the crankshaft front cover on the engine. Refer to section 1.14.4.
2. Install the oil inlet pipe and screen assembly. Use a new gasket between the oil inlet pipe
and the crankshaft front cover.
3. Install the oil pan, using the new gasket. Refer to section 3.11.3.
4. Starting with the center bolt on each side and working toward each end of the oil pan,
tighten the 3/8 in.-16 bolts to 14-27 N·m (10-20 lb·ft) torque.
5. Fill the oil pan to the proper level on the dipstick with the recommended lubricating oil.
Refer to section 13.5.1 and refer to section 5.2.
3.2.10 Installation of Oil Pump Driving Gear on the Crankshaft(6V and

8V Engines)
Install the oil pump driving gear on the crankshaft as follows:
NOTE:
Whenever a 6V or 8V engine crankshaft-mounted oil pump drive gear requires
replacement. Loctite RC/620 retaining compound, or equivalent, must be used to ensure
proper gear retention.

1. Measure the crankshaft diameter and gear bore.
NOTE:
Both parts must be within the specified limits. Replace, if necessary. C/S dia. -
63.449 mm (2.498 in.) / 63.5 mm (2.5 in.) Gear Bore - 63.5127 mm (2.5005 in.) /
63.5254 mm (2.5010 in.)
2. Clean the crankshaft, spacer, gear and key with a chlorinated solvent, such as that used
with a dye penetrant kit. Ensure parts are dry before proceeding.
3. Install the spacer and key, but do not apply primer or retaining compound to either part.
4. Apply Loctite Primer "T" to the crankshaft and the gear bore. Allow to dry a minimum of
5 minutes before continuing. Follow the manufacturer instructions on the container.
5. Shake well before using, and apply a small amount of Loctite RC/620 to the gear bore.
See Figure 3-14.
Figure 3-14 Location of Loctite RC/620
6. Spread the compound to ensure entire bore is covered. Remove excess compound from
the chamfer area of the gear, but do not wipe dry.
7. Apply a thin bead of RC/620 around the crankshaft outer diameter, approximately
31.75 mm (1.25 in.) in front of the installed spacer. Do not spread the bead or wipe dry.
8. Slide the gear straight up to the spacer.
NOTE:
Ensure gear is in its final position with the key in place, since the Loctite will start to
harden almost immediately. It will be impossible to move the gear later.

9. Wipe the crankshaft clean.

10. Press the gear on the crankshaft. Drive the gear tightly against the spacer on the crankshaft.
11. Install the oil slinger with the dished side away from the gear.
12. Install the engine front cover. Refer to section 1.11.3.
13. Allow the Loctite to cure for four hours minimum before starting the engine.
NOTE:
Chemicals such as Loctite RC/620 have a shelf life of one year which should not be
exceeded. Check with a Loctite supplier for product use beyond its recommended life.
3.2.11 Installation of the Main Bearing Cap Mounted Oil Pump(6V and
8V Engines)
Install the main bearing cap mounted oil pump as follows:

1. Position the oil pump over the studs on the No. 1 and 2 main bearing caps so that the gear
teeth mesh with the crankshaft oil pump drive gear teeth.
2. Fasten the oil pump to the main bearing caps with four nuts and lock washers.
NOTE:
Place the same number of shims between the oil pump feet and the main bearing caps
as were removed. Removing or installing shims controls the gear tooth adjustment.
The addition or removal of one set of 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) shims will change the gear
tooth clearance by 0.089 mm (0.0035 in.).
3. With the engine in the running position, check the tooth clearance between the oil pump
gear and the crankshaft gear.
NOTE:
Shims are used between the oil pump mounting feet and the main bearing caps.
Whenever the original pump is installed, the same shims or an equal number of new
(identical) shims must be placed under the front and rear mounting feet. Adjust to obtain
the proper clearance between the gears.
NOTE:
Use a feeler gage or a suitable indicator. The clearance should be 0.1524-0.3048 mm
(0.006-0.012 in.).
4. Use two new gaskets and position the oil pressure relief valve on the cylinder block and
against the oil pump body. Secure the oil pressure relief valve with four bolts and lock
washers.
5. Use a new gasket, and position the oil pump inlet pipe on the oil pump body. Secure the
inlet pipe with two bolts and lock washers.

6. Place the screen on the inlet pipe, and fasten it with two self-locking bolts and two
spacers. See Figure 3-15.
1. Oil Pump 3. Spacer

2. Inlet Screen 4. Gasket
Figure 3-15 Inlet Pipe and Screen Mounting

7. Place a new gasket between the scavenging pump body and baffle plate and between the
baffle plate and the scavenging oil pump inlet pipe. Secure the pipe and baffle with two
bolts and lock washers. See Figure 3-16.
1. Scavenging Inlet Pipe 4. Inlet Screen

2. Gasket 5. Support Bracket
3. Baffle
Figure 3-16 Scavenging Inlet Pipe and Screen Mounting
8. Attach the two support brackets to the scavenging inlet pipe. Secure the brackets to the
main bearing cap with bolts and lock washers.
9. Place the screen on the scavenging inlet pipe, and fasten it with two self-locking bolts and
two plain washers.
10. Check all bolts.
NOTE:
Bolts should be tight to ensure that there will be no leaks in the oil pump and pipe
connections.
11. Use a new gasket, and secure the oil pump pressure regulator valve to the cylinder block
with two bolts and lock washers.

12. Place a new gasket on the oil pan, and install the pan on the cylinder block. Start all oil
pan bolts before tightening them.
NOTE:
Excessive bolt tightening will crush the oil pan gasket.
13. Tighten the bolts snugly but not excessively, starting with the center bolts and working
toward each end of the oil pan.
14. Fill the oil pan to the proper level with the recommended oil. Refer to section 13.5.1
and refer to section5.2.

The gear-type scavenging lubricating oil pump is mounted on number seven and eight main
bearing caps (12V engines) and number nine and ten main bearing caps (16V-92 engines). It is
gear driven from the rear end of the crankshaft. See Figure 3-17. On some engines, the oil pump
is mounted at the front on the number one and two main bearings caps and is gear-driven by an
oil pump drive gear bolted to the front of the crankshaft gear.
1. Oil Pump Inlet 6. Oil Pressure Regulator Valves

2. Oil Pump Outlet Tube 7. Scavenging Pump Outlet Pipe
3. Junction Block 8. Scavenging Pump
4. Oil Pressure Relief Valve 9. Oil Pump
5. Scavenging Pump Inlet Pipe and Screen
Figure 3-17 Typical Lubricating Oil Pump Rear Mounted(12V and 16V
Engines)

NOTE:
The greatest amount of wear in the oil pump occurs on the internal drive and driven
gears. Keep the lubricating oil clean and acid-free to minimize wear. If dirt and sludge
accumulate in the lubricating system, rapid gear wear will occur. Properly service the oil
filters to increase the gear life.
3.3.1 Repair or Replacement of Oil Pump (12V and 16V Engines)

See Figure 3-18.

Figure 3-18 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Oil Pump(12V and 16V
Engines)
3.3.2 Removal of Oil Pump (12V and 16V Engines)
Remove the oil pump as follows:


2. Remove the oil pan(s). Refer to section 3.11.2.
3. Remove and discard the oil pan gasket.
4. Remove the inlet and outlet tube assemblies from the oil pump and the scavenging pump.
5. Remove the nuts and lock washers that attach the oil pump to the main bearing caps.
6. Remove the oil pump.
7. Refer to section 1.29.2 for gear removal.
3.3.3 Disassembly of Oil Pump (12V and 16V Engines)
Disassemble the oil pump as follows:
NOTE:
Observe the relative position of the parts during disassembly to facilitate reassembly
of the pump. See Figure 3-19.

1. Cylinder Block 8. Oil Pump Screen Support

2. Bolt 9. Screen
3. Lock Washer 10. Oil Pump Inlet Retainer
4. Scavenging Outlet Pipe 11. Nut
5. Gasket 12. Screen Housing
6. Junction Block 13. Scavenging Inlet Tube
7. Oil Pump Outlet Tube Assembly 14. Outlet Gasket
Figure 3-19 Disassembly of Oil Pump for 12V and 16V Engines
1. Remove the five bolts, and lift the scavenging pump body from the pump body.
2. Withdraw the scavenging pump drive and driven gears from the pump shafts.
3. Remove the Woodruff keys from the drive shaft.
4. Remove the spacer.
5. Withdraw the driven shaft and gear as an assembly from the pump body.

6. Attach puller J 24420-C to the pump driven gear.

7. Place a couple of washers or a nut between the end of the pump shaft and the puller
screw to protect the end of the pump shaft.
8. Turn the puller screw clockwise to remove the gear. See Figure 3-20.
1. Oil Pump Drive Gear 2. Oil Pump Assembly
Figure 3-20 Removing Oil Pump Driven Gear

10. Withdraw the drive shaft and gear as an assembly from the pump body.

11. Press the oil pump drive shaft out of the oil pump gear. See Figure 3-21.
1. Split Plates 3. Oil Pump Shaft

2. Oil Pump Gear
Figure 3-21 Pressing Oil Pump Gear From Shaft
3.3.3.1 Cleaning of Oil Pump (12V and 16V Engines)
Clean the oil pump as follows:

FIRE
vapors:
EYE INJURY

3. Remove the screen and cover from the oil inlet pipe assembly.
FIRE
vapors:

EYE INJURY

6. Reassemble the screen, cover, and oil intake pipe.
3.3.3.2 Inspection of Oil Pump (12V and 16V Engines)
Inspect the oil pump as follows:

1. Visually inspect the internal gear cavity of the pump body and scavenger pump (if used)
for wear or scoring.
[a] If the pump body is excessively worn or scored, it must be replaced.
2. Inspect the pump cover and spacer between the pump and scavenger pump bodies for wear.
[a] If worn, replace the pump cover and spacer. Refer to section 3.3.5.
3. Inspect the bushings in the pump body (or scavenging body) and cover.

[a] If bushings are excessively worn, replace the pump body (or scavenging body) and
cover. Refer to section 3.3.4.
NOTE:
Bushings must be properly located and positioned. See Figure 3-22. The gear and
bushing bores must be concentric within 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) total indicator reading. The
shaft-to-bushing clearance with new parts is 0.0381-0.0813 mm (0.0015–0.0032 in.).
Figure 3-22 Diameter and Location of Bushing in Oil Pump(12V and 16V
Engines)
[b] If bushings are not excessively worn, reuse the parts.

4. Inspect the gear teeth for scoring or wear.
NOTICE:
The use of excessively worn gears will result in low engine oil
pressure. This, in turn, may lead to serious engine damage.
[a] If gear teeth are excessively scored or worn, they must be replaced. Refer to section
1.29.8.
[b] If gear teeth are not scored or worn, they may be reused.
5. Inspect the pump shafts and keyways for wear.
[a] If worn, replace the shafts.Refer to section 3.3.4.
[b] If not worn, the shafts may be reused.
6. Inspect the external pump drive-driven gear for wear.

[a] If worn, the gear must be replaced. Refer to section 1.29.8.

[b] If not worn, the gear may be reused.
3.3.4 Assembly of Oil Pump (12V and 16V Engines)
Assemble the oil pump as follows:

1. Install the oil pump gear key in the oil pump drive shaft.
2. Lubricate the drive shaft.
3. Press the oil pump drive gear on the shaft with tool J 9380. See Figure 3-23.
NOTE:
Tool J 9380 will position the gear 139.7 mm (5.50 in.) from the end of the shaft and
prevent the shaft from bending during gear installation.
Figure 3-23 Installing Oil Pump Gear on Shaft using Tool J 9380

4. Lubricate the driven shaft, and press the oil pump driven gear on the shaft. Use tool J 9381
to position the gear 118.872 mm (4.68 in.) from the end of the shaft.
5. Install the drive shaft and gear assembly in its original position on the pump body.
6. Install the key in the driven gear end of the drive shaft.
7. Press the driven gear on the drive shaft until the clearance between the gear hub and the
pump body is 0.25 mm (0.010 in.). See Figure 3-24.
1. Washer
Figure 3-24 Installing Oil Pump Drive-Driven Gear on Shaft
8. Install the driven shaft and gear assembly in the pump body.
9. Slide the spacer on the shafts.

10. Install the keys in the drive shaft, and slide the scavenging pump gears on the shafts.
NOTE:
The right-hand and left-hand scavenging pump gears must be in the same relative
position as the oil pump gears.
11. Secure the scavenging pump body to the oil pump body with five bolts and lock washers.
12. Rotate the oil pump driven gear by hand to ensure the gears and the shafts rotate freely.
13. If necessary, loosen the scavenging pump body bolts. Tap the body bolts with a soft
hammer, and tighten the bolts.
3.3.5 Installation of Oil Pump (12V and 16V Engines)
Install the oil pump as follows:

1. Position the rear mounted oil pump on the number seven and eight main bearing caps
(12V) and number nine and ten main bearing caps (16V) so that the oil pump drive gear
teeth mesh with the oil pump driven gear teeth.
2. Secure the oil pump to the bearing caps with four nuts and lock washers.
3. Check the backlash between the oil pump drive and driven gears with a feeler gage or a
suitable dial indicator. The backlash should be 0.1524-0.3048 mm (0.006-0.012 in.).
4. Install shims between the oil pump mounting feet and the main bearing caps, as required,
to obtain the proper backlash.
NOTE:
Install or remove the same number of shims, under both mounting feet, to keep the
pump level. The addition or removal of each 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) shim will change
the gear backlash 0.089 mm (0.0035 in.).
5. If removed, install the junction block.
NOTE:
When installing the junction block, use new junction block-to-cylinder block gaskets
to prevent oil leaks.
6. Install the oil pump inlet and outlet pipes.
NOTE:
Use a new inlet pipe-to-oil pump gasket. Use a new gasket at each end of the oil
pump outlet tube.
7. Install the oil pump screen cover gasket, screen cover, inlet pipe flange, and screen stop on
the oil pump inlet pipe.
8. Place the screen in the screen cover, and lock it in place with the screen retainer.

9. Install the scavenging pump inlet and outlet pipes. Use a new inlet pipe-to-scavenging
pump gasket and a new outlet pipe-to-scavenging pump gasket.
10. Install the scavenging pump inlet pipe support.
11. Place a new gasket on the upper oil pan, and install the pan on the cylinder block.
12. Start all oil pan bolts before tightening them. Tighten the center bolts first, and work
toward each end of the oil pan.
13. Attach the screen cover gasket, screen cover, inlet flange, screen stop, and tube supports to
the scavenging pump inlet tube.
14. Secure the ends of the scavenging pump inlet tube supports to the upper oil pan.
15. Place the screen in the scavenging pump inlet screen cover, and lock it in place with
the screen retainer.
16. Place a new gasket on the lower oil pan, and attach the lower oil pan to the upper oil pan.
NOTE:
On engines with an oil pan baffle between the upper and lower oil pan(s), use a gasket
on both sides of the baffle.
17. Fill the oil pan to the proper level with the recommended oil. Refer to section 13.5.1
and refer to section5.2.

3.4 LUBRICATING OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE
On 6V and 8V engines, an oil pressure regulator valve maintains stabilized lubricating oil
pressure within the engine at all speeds, regardless of the oil temperature. The valve is installed
at the end of the vertical oil gallery near the front of the cylinder block on the side opposite the
oil cooler. See Figure 3-25.
1. Front Cover and Oil Pump Assembly 3. Oil Pump Inlet Pipe
2. Regulator Valve 4. Cylinder Block
Figure 3-25 Oil Pressure Regulator Valve Mounting (6V or 8V Engine with
Oil Pump in Front Cover)
Two oil pressure regulator valves are used on 12V and 16V engines. When the oil pressure at
the regulator valves exceeds 345 kPa (50 lb/in.2), the valves open, discharging excess oil into
the oil pan.

The oil pressure regulator consists of a valve body, a hollow piston-type valve, a spring, a spring
seat, and a pin to retain the valve assembly within the valve body. See Figure 3-26.
1. Gasket 6. Valve
2. Pin 7. Regulator Valve Body
3. Spring 8. Bolt
4. Spring Seat 9. Lock Washer
5. Washer
Figure 3-26 Oil Pressure Regulator Valve (6V and 8V Engines)
Current regulator valve assemblies (identified by a blue paint mark on the valve body) include a
flat washer between the valve and the valve spring. The washer raises valve operating pressure by
34.5 kPa (5 lb/in.2). Because of the increased lubrication that results from the higher operating
pressure, DDC recommends modifying the former valve assembly when the oil pan is removed
for engine repair or service. Install one (1) 0.406 in. x 0.812 in. x 0.065 in. flat washer between
the valve and the spring to modify the former valve.
A spring, which is compressed by the pin in back of the spring seat, holds the valve on its seat.
The entire assembly is bolted to the cylinder block lower flange and sealed against leaks by a
gasket between the block and the valve body. When conditions are such that the oil pressure at the
valve exceeds 345 kPa (50 lb/in.2), the valve is forced from its seat, and oil from the engine gallery
is bypassed to the engine oil pan. Stabilized lubricating oil pressure is maintained at all times.
Under normal conditions, the oil pressure regulator should require little attention. If sludge
accumulates in the lubrication system, the valve may not work freely, thereby remaining open or
failing to open at the normal operating pressure.

Whenever the lubricating oil pump is removed for inspection, remove the regulator valve and
spring. Thoroughly clean and inspect the regulator valve and spring.
3.4.1 Repair or Replacement of Oil Pressure Regulator Valve

See Figure 3-27.

Figure 3-27 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Oil Pressure Regulator

Valve (6V and 8V Engines)
3.4.2 Removal of Oil Pressure Regulator Valve (6V and 8V Engines)
Remove the oil pressure regulator valve as follows:

1. Remove the two regulator-to-cylinder block attaching bolts and lock washers.
2. Tap the regulator body lightly to loosen it from the gasket and the cylinder block.
3. Remove the regulator and the gasket.
3.4.3 Removal of Oil Pressure Regulator Valve (12V and 16V Engines)
Remove the oil pressure regulator valve as follows:

1. Remove the regulator valve-to-cylinder block bolts and lock washers.
2. Tap the regulator body lightly to loosen it from the gasket and the cylinder block.
3. Remove the regulator and the gasket. Discard the old gasket.
3.4.4 Disassembly of Oil Pressure Regulator Valve (6V and 8V Engines)
Disassemble the oil pressure regulator valve as follows:

1. Clamp the regulator assembly in a soft-jawed bench vise, and remove the spring seat
retaining pin from the regulator body.
2. Remove the spring seat, spring, washer, and valve from the regulator body.
3.4.5 Disassembly of Oil Pressure Regulator Valve (12V and 16V

Engines)
Disassemble the oil pressure regulator valve as follows:

1. Drive the spring seat retaining pin out of the valve body.

2. Remove the spring seat, spring and valve from the valve body. See Figure 3-28.
1. Pin 5. Bolt
2. Valve 6. Lock Washer
3. Spring 7. Regulator Valve Body
4. Spring Seat 8. Gasket
Figure 3-28 Oil Pressure Regulator Valve (12V and 16V Engines)
3.4.5.1 Cleaning of Oil Pressure Regulator Valve
Clean the oil pressure regulator valve as follows:

FIRE
vapors:
1. Clean all of the regulator components in fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
3.4.5.2 Inspection of Oil Pressure Regulator Valve
Inspect the oil pressure regulator valve as follows:

1. Inspect the regulator valve movement in the valve body.
[a] If the regulator valve does not move freely in the body, replace the valve.
[b] If the regulator valve moves freely in the body, continue inspection.
2. Visually inspect the valve for scoring.
[a] If scored, clean with a crocus cloth.
[b] If excessively scored, replace the valve. Refer to section 3.4.8.
[c] If not scored, proceed with inspection.
3. Inspect the valve body for scoring and cracks.
[a] If the valve body is scored, clean with a crocus cloth.
[b] If cracked or excessively scored, replace the valve body. Refer to section 3.4.8.


4. Inspect the spring for pitting or fractures.
[a] If fractured or pitted, replace the spring. Refer to section 3.4.8.
[b] If not fractured or pitted, reuse the spring.
3.4.6 Assembly of Oil Pressure Regulator Valve (6V and 8V Engines)
Assemble the oil pressure regulator valve as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Apply clean engine oil to the outer face of the valve, and slide it into the regulator body,
closed end first.
2. Insert the washer and spring in the valve, and install the spring seat.
3. While compressing the spring, install the retaining pin behind the spring seat.
4. Press the pin flush to 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) below the surface of the valve body.
NOTE:
The valve body used on the 6V and 8V engines (with an oil pump in the front cover) has
two retaining pin holes. Install the pin in the outermost hole for the regulator valve. The
inner hole is used when the valve is assembled as an oil pump relief valve assembly.
3.4.7 Assembly of Oil Pressure Regulator Valve (12V and 16V Engines)
Assemble the oil pressure regulator valve as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Apply clean engine oil to the outer face of the valve, and insert the spring seat, spring and
valve into the valve body.
2. Insert the spring seat retaining pin into the valve body.
4. Press the pin flush to 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) below the surface of the valve body.

3.4.8 Installation of Oil Pressure Regulator Valve (6V and 8V Engines)
Install the oil pressure regulator valve as follows:

1. Remove all oil gasket material from the regulator body and cylinder block.
2. Affix a new gasket to a cast iron regulator body, and secure the regulator assembly to the
cylinder block with two bolts and lock washers.
NOTE:
When installing a regulator assembly with an aluminum housing, use 3/8 in. plain
washers on the bolts. Ensure washers are against the aluminum housing.
3.4.9 Installation of Oil Pressure Regulator Valve (12V and 16V Engines)
Install the oil pressure regulator valve as follows:

1. Remove all traces of old gasket material from the regulator body and cylinder block.
2. Affix a new gasket to the regulator valve body, and secure the regulator valve assembly to
the cylinder block with two bolts and lock washers.

3.5 LUBRICATING OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
Oil leaving the pump under pressure passes into the pressure relief valve body. The spring-loaded
valve opens when the pressure exceeds approximately 724 kPa (105 lb/in.2). It directs the excess
oil to the oil pan. The pressure relief valve is located at the lower end of the vertical oil gallery
near the front of the cylinder block on the oil cooler side. See Figure 3-29.
1. Front Cover and Oil Pump Assembly 3. Oil Pump Inlet Pipe
2. Relief Valve 4. Cylinder Block
Figure 3-29 Oil Pressure Relief Valve Mounting (6V or 8V Engine with Oil
Pump in Front Cover)
The pressure relief valve consists of a valve body, a hollow piston-type valve, a spring, spring
seat, and a pin to retain the valve assembly within the valve body.

The relief valve assembly used on 6V and 8V engines is composed of the same parts as the
regulator valve assembly. However, the retaining pin is located in the valve body inner pin hole to
provide the necessary tension on the spring. See Figure 3-30.
1. Gasket 6. Valve
2. Pin 7. Valve Body
3. Spring 8. Bolt
4. Spring Seat 9. Lock Washer
5. Washer
Figure 3-30 Oil Pressure Relief Valve (6V and 8V)
To provide sufficient clearance between the relief valve housing and the stabilizer bolts, a new
relief valve is now being used on engines equipped with a main bearing cap mounted lubricating
oil pump. To eliminate cracking the valve housing at assembly, the casting is thickened and the
valve housing corner at the stabilizer bolt location is removed. The former and new relief valves
are not interchangeable and only the new relief valve is serviced.
NOTE:
Use the correct main bearing cap bolt and washer at the stabilizer positions to obtain
minimum clearance.
Service operations for the pressure relief valve are similar to those of the regulator valve.
The spring in the 6V and 8V relief valve assemblies is the same as used in the oil pressure
regulator assemblies.

On 12V and 16V engines, the oil pressure relief valve, mounted on the junction block, bypasses
excess oil directly into the oil sump when the oil pressure in the cylinder block main oil galleries
exceeds approximately 827 kPa (120 lb/in.2).
The valve, spring, spring seat, and pin used in the oil pressure relief valve are identical to the parts
used in the oil pressure regulator valve. The removal, disassembly, inspection, assembly, and
installation procedures are identical for both. See Figure 3-31.
1. Pin 5. Bolt
3. Spring 7. Valve Body
Figure 3-31 Oil Pressure Relief Valve and Relative Location of Parts(12V and
16V Engines)
3.5.1 Repair or Replacement of Oil Pressure Relief Valve

See Figure 3-32.

Figure 3-32 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Oil Pressure Relief Valve
3.5.2 Removal of Oil Pressure Relief Valve (6V and 8V Engines)
Remove the oil pressure relief valve as follows:

1. Remove the two relief valve-to-cylinder block attaching bolts and lock washers.

2. Tap the relief body lightly to loosen it from the gasket and the cylinder block.
3.5.3 Removal of Oil Pressure Relief Valve (12V and 16V Engines)
Remove the oil pressure relief valve as follows:

1. Remove the relief valve-to-cylinder block bolts and lock washers.
2. Tap the relief body lightly to loosen it from the gasket and the cylinder block.
3. Remove the relief valve and the gasket. Discard the old gasket.
3.5.4 Disassembly of Oil Pressure Relief Valve (6V and 8V Engines)
Disassemble the oil pressure relief valve as follows:

1. Clamp the relief valve assembly in a soft-jawed bench vise, and remove the spring seat
retaining pin from the relief body.
2. Remove the spring seat, spring, washer, and valve from the relief body.
3.5.5 Disassembly of Oil Pressure Relief Valve (12V and 16V Engines)
Disassemble the oil pressure relief valve as follows:

1. Drive the spring seat retaining pin out of the valve body.

2. Remove the spring seat, spring and valve from the valve body. See Figure 3-33.
1. Pin 5. Bolt
3. Spring 7. Valve Body
Figure 3-33 Oil Pressure Relief Valve and Relative Location of Parts(12V and
16V Engines)
3.5.5.1 Cleaning of Oil Pressure Relief Valve
Clean the oil pressure relief valve as follows:

FIRE
vapors:
1. Clean all relief valve components in fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
3.5.5.2 Inspection of Oil Pressure Relief Valve
Inspect the oil pressure relief valve as follows:

1. Inspect the oil pressure relief valve as follows:
[a] If the relief valve does not move freely in the body, replace the valve. Refer to section
3.5.8.
[b] If the relief valve moves freely in the body, continue inspection.
2. Visually inspect the valve for scoring.
[a] If scored, clean with a crocus cloth.
[b] If excessively scored, replace the valve. Refer to section 3.5.8.
[c] If not scored, proceed with inspection.
3. Inspect the valve body for scoring and cracks.
[a] If the valve body is scored, clean with a crocus cloth.
[b] If cracked or excessively scored, replace the valve body. Refer to section 3.5.7.


4. Inspect the spring for pitting or fractures.
[a] If fractured or pitted, replace the spring. Refer to section 3.5.7.
[b] If not fractured or pitted, reuse the spring.
3.5.6 Assembly of Oil Pressure Relief Valve (6V and 8V Engines)
Assemble the oil pressure relief valve as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Apply clean engine oil to the outer face of the valve, and slide it into the relief body,
closed end first.
2. Insert the spring in the valve, and install the spring seat.
4. While compressing the spring, install the retaining pin behind the spring seat. Press the
pin flush to 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) below the surface of the valve body.
NOTE:
The valve body used on the 6V and 8V engines (with an oil pump in the front cover) has
two retaining pin holes. Install the pin in the inner hole for the relief valve. The outermost
hole is used when the valve is assembled as an oil pump regulator valve assembly.
3.5.7 Assembly of Oil Pressure Relief Valve (12V and 16V Engines)
Assemble the oil pressure relief valve as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Apply clean engine oil to the outer face of the valve and insert the spring seat, spring and
valve into the valve body.
2. Insert the spring seat retaining pin into the valve body.

3.5.8 Installation of Oil Pressure Relief Valve (6V and 8V Engines)
Install the oil pressure relief valve as follows:

1. Remove all old gasket material from the relief body and cylinder block.
2. Affix a new gasket to a cast iron relief body, and secure the relief assembly to the cylinder
block with two bolts and lock washers.
NOTE:
When installing a relief assembly with an aluminum housing, use 3/8 in. plain washers
on the bolts. Ensure washers are against the aluminum housing.
3.5.9 Installation of Oil Pressure Relief Valve (12V and 16V Engines)
Install the oil pressure relief valve as follows:

1. Remove all traces of old gasket material from the relief body and cylinder block.
2. Affix a new gasket to the relief valve body, and secure the relief valve assembly to the
cylinder block with two bolts and lock washers.

3.6 LUBRICATING OIL FILTERS
Replace the oil filter element when changing the engine oil to ensure that abrasive dust, metal
particles, and carbon are removed.
Select a reliable oil supplier, observe oil change period recommendations, and perform proper
filter maintenance procedures to ensure trouble-free lubrication and long engine life.
The Full Flow Oil Filter is described as follows:
The full flow type lubricating oil filter is installed in front of the oil cooler in the lubrication
system. The 6V and 8V engines are equipped with a single filter. See Figure 3-34. The 12V and
16V engines use either two single or two dual oil filters. The filters may be mounted directly to
the oil cooler adaptor or remotely mounted on the oil cooler cover. Flexible hoses connect the
filters to a filter junction, which is attached to the oil cooler adaptor. See Figure 3-35. Certain
units may be equipped with an oil cooler cover that also functions as an oil filter adaptor.

1. Oil Filter 3. Oil Cooler

2. Water Pump Elbow
Figure 3-34 Typical Full Flow Oil Filter Mounting (6V or 8V Engines)

1. Filter Junction 4. Filter Outlet

2. Oil Cooler 5. Filter Inlet
3. Oil Filter 6. Filter and Oil Cooler Adaptor
Figure 3-35 Typical Full Flow Remote Mounted Oil Filter
The filter assembly consists of a replaceable element enclosed within a shell, which is mounted
on an adaptor or base. When the filter shell is in place, a coil spring restrains the element from
movement.
All of the oil supplied to the engine by the oil pump passes through the filter before reaching the
various moving engine parts. The pump forces the pressurized oil through a passage in the filter
adaptor or base to the space surrounding the filter element. Impurities are filtered out as the oil
is forced through the element to a central passage surrounding the center stud, out a passage in
the filter adaptor or base, and to the oil cooler.
A valve, which opens at approximately 124-145 kPa (18-21 lb/in.2), is located in the filter adaptor
or base. The valve will pass the oil directly to the oil cooler should the filter become clogged.

Conversion adaptor kits (K-4 for the 6V and the K-5 for the 8V) for spin-on, full flow lube oil
filters are available as field replacement items.
NOTE:
Spin-on filters should not replace filter assemblies on transmissions.
The spin-on lubricating oil filter (throwaway type) and mounting adaptor are installed on some
engines. The spin-on filter requires a new mounting adaptor which, in some cases, is part of
the oil cooler cover.
The Bypass Oil Filter is described as follows:

When additional filtration is desired, a bypass oil filter may be installed on the engine. See Figure
3-36. To control the oil flow rate and to provide sufficient oil pressure when the engine is running
at idle speed, the orifice size on the discharge side of the filter must not exceed 2.5654 mm (0.101
in.) on 6V and 8V engines or 3.18 mm (0.125 in.) on 12V and 16V engines.
1. Drain Plug 5. Spring

2. Base 6. Gasket
3. Shell 7. Stud
4. Element
Figure 3-36 Bypass Type Oil Filter
When the engine is running, a portion of the lubricating oil is bled off the oil gallery and passed
through the bypass filter. Eventually all oil passes through the filter, filtering out fine foreign
particles that may be present.

The bypass filter assembly consists of a replaceable element contained in a shell mounted on a
combination base and mounting bracket. When the shell is in place, a coil spring at the top
restrains the filter element movement. A hollow center stud serves as the outlet passage from
the filter as well as securing the shell in place.
The Thermatic Oil Control Valve is described as follows:
A spin-on lube oil filter adaptor assembly with a temperature-sensitive thermatic oil control valve
is available as an option on certain industrial engines. See Figure 3-37. This valve was formerly
used on certified automotive models, but was discontinued effective with 1988 production build
engines. A service kit is available from DDC distributors to completely replace the thermatic
valve when no longer required.
1. Thermatic Oil Control Adaptor 2. Spin-on Filter
Figure 3-37 Spin-on Oil Filter and Adaptor Assembly with Thermatic Valve

The thermatic valve is installed in the top of the oil filter adaptor assembly, where it operates like
a thermostat to control the lube oil flow through the engine and oil cooler. See Figure 3-38. The
valve operates as follows:
Figure 3-38 Thermatic Valve Operation
At lube oil temperatures below 102°C (215°F), the valve stays in the bypass mode. Filtered
engine oil bypasses the oil cooler and flows directly to the main oil gallery. With no oil passing
through the oil cooler, engine oil warms rapidly. When oil temperature is between 102°C-110°C
(215°F-230°F) the thermatic valve opens partially. The valve senses oil temperature and
modulates oil through and around the oil cooler. At oil temperatures above 110°C (230°F), the
valve opens completely, and all oil flows through the oil cooler.

The thermatic valve allows the engine lube oil to reach its normal range quickly, reducing the
time the engine operates on heavier, cold engine oil. During light load engine operation, the valve
keeps the oil within the proper temperature range for optimum lubrication. Maintaining the oil
temperature within the 102°C-110°C (215°F-230°F) range minimizes friction and pumping
losses. The thermatic oil control valve assembly incorporates a relief valve, which permits oil to
bypass the oil cooler if the cooler becomes plugged.
When installing the thermatic oil control valve on the adaptor, tighten the valve to 41-47 N·m
3.6.1 Repair or Replacement of Oil Filter

See Figure 3-39.
Figure 3-39 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Oil Filter

3.6.2 Removal of Full Flow or Bypass Oil Filter
See Figure 3-40. Remove the full flow or bypass oil filter as follows:
1. Bolt 8. Seal
2. Washers (3) 9. Spring
3. Adaptor 10. Drain Plug
4. Gasket (3) 11. Center Stud
5. Element 12. Shell
6. Nut 13. Plug
7. Retainer 14. Bypass Valve
Figure 3-40 Full Flow Oil Filter
1. Remove the drain plug from the filter shell or the filter adaptor or base, and drain the oil.

2. Back out the center stud, and withdraw the shell, element, and stud as an assembly.
Discard the element and the shell gasket.
3. Remove the center stud and gasket.
NOTE:
Retain the gasket unless it is damaged and oil leaks have occurred.
4. Remove the nut on the full flow filter center stud.

5. Remove and discard the element retainer seal. Install a new seal.
3.6.3 Removal of Spin-on Oil Filter
Remove the spin-on oil filter as follows:

1. Remove the oil filter using strap wrench tool J 29917, which must be used with a 1/2 in.
drive socket wrench and extension.
2. Discard the used oil filter.
3.6.4 Removal of Bypass Valve
Remove the bypass valve as follows:

1. Remove the plug and gasket or the screw and retainer.
2. Withdraw the spring and bypass valve.
3.6.4.1 Cleaning of Oil Filter
Clean the oil filter as follows:

1. On full flow or bypass oil filters, clean the filter shell and the adaptor or base.
2. On spin-on filters, clean the filter adaptor with a clean, lint-free cloth.
EYE INJURY
3. On the bypass valve, wash all parts in clean fuel oil, and dry them with compressed air.
3.6.4.2 Inspection of Oil Filter
Inspect the oil filter as follows:

1. Inspect the filter shell for nicks, burrs, and other damage.

[a] If nicked, burred, or damaged, replace the filter shell. Refer to section 3.6.5.
[b] If not nicked, burred, or damaged, reuse the filter shell.
3.6.5 Installation of Full Flow or Bypass Oil Filter
Install the full flow or bypass oil filter as follows:

1. Install the center stud gasket, and slide the stud (with the spring, washer, seal, and retainer
installed on the full flow filter stud) through the filter shell.
2. Install a new shell gasket in the filter adaptor or base.
3. Position the new filter element carefully over the center stud and within the shell.
4. Place the shell, element, and stud assembly in position on the filter adaptor or base.
Tighten the stud to 68-81 N·m (50-60 lb·ft) torque.
5. Install the drain plug.
6. Start and run the engine for a short period, and check for oil leaks.
7. After any oil leaks have been corrected and the engine has been stopped long enough
(approximately twenty minutes) for the oil from various engine parts to drain back to the
crankcase, add sufficient oil to bring it to the proper level on the dipstick.
3.6.6 Installation of Spin-on Oil Filter
Install the spin-on oil filter as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lightly coat the oil filter gasket (seal) with clean engine oil.
NOTE:
When installing an oil filter on a DDEC engine, fill 2/3 full with clean engine oil before
installing. This will insure full bearing surface lubrication when the engine is started and
prevent a faulty low oil pressure code (45).
NOTICE:
Tighten the filter by hand. Mechanical tightening will distort or
crack the filter adaptor.
2. Start the new filter on the adaptor, and tighten by hand until the gasket touches the
mounting adaptor head. Tighten an additional two-thirds turn.

4. After any oil leaks have been corrected and the engine has been stopped long enough for
oil from the various engine parts to drain back to the crankcase (approximately twenty
minutes), add sufficient oil to raise the oil level to the proper mark on the dipstick.
3.6.7 Installation of Bypass Valve
Install the bypass valve as follows:

1. Using a new gasket, install the bypass valve.
2. Tighten the 1-1/4 in.-16 bypass valve plug to 129-143 N·m (95-105 lb·ft) or the
1-1/2 in.-16 plug to 150-177 N·m (110-130 lb·ft) torque.

3.7 LUBRICATING OIL COOLER (PLATE TYPE)
In order to perform its functions satisfactorily, the lubricating oil must be kept within the proper
temperature limits. If the oil is too cold, it will not flow freely. If the oil is too hot, it cannot
support the bearing loads, carry away enough heat, and may flow too heavily. As a consequence,
oil pressure may drop below acceptable limits and oil consumption may become excessive.
An oil cooler dissipates heat from the engine oil. Each engine is provided with an oil cooler
mounted on the right-hand side of the cylinder block at the lower front corner as viewed from the
flywheel end of the engine. See Figure 3-41. Two engine oil coolers are used on the 12V and 16V
engines and are centrally located on the side of the cylinder block.
1. Oil Cooler 4. Cooler Adaptor

2. Water Outlet Elbow 5. Oil Filter
3. Water Inlet Elbow
Figure 3-41 Typical Oil Cooler Mounting (6V and 8V Engine)

The 6V and 8V naturally aspirated engines usually are equipped with an 18 or 24 plate oil cooler.
Most current 6V turbocharged engines are equipped with an 18 plate oil cooler (three plates per
cylinder). Some 6V and all 8V turbocharged engines are equipped with a 24 plate oil cooler
(four plates per cylinder).
To improve sealing between the oil cooler housing adaptor, gasket and plate on certain vehicle
engines, additional bolt holes, and 5/16 in.-18 bolts have been added. See Figure 3-42. Only
the new adaptor, plate, and gasket are serviced. To use the former adaptor plate with the new
gasket and adaptor, drill two additional holes.
1. Plate 4. "Dog Ear" with Bolt Hole

2. Gasket 5. Adaptor
3. Bead of Sealing Material 6. Additional Bolt Holes
Figure 3-42 Oil Cooler Adaptor (Certain Vehicle Engine)

A new, one-piece cast oil cooler adaptor, which eliminates the need for a separate cover plate
and gasket, is used on 6V and 8V engines. The new adaptor eliminates the potential for external
oil leakage between the former adaptor and oil cooler adaptor plate gasket surfaces. See Figure
3-43. The new adaptor is completely interchangeable with the former adaptor, and only the new
versions serviced. The gasket and plate used with the former adaptor are still serviced.
Figure 3-43 Former and Current Oil Cooler Configuration
Oil from the lubricating oil pump flows through a passage in the oil cooler adaptor to the oil filter,
through the oil cooler, and through the outlet passage in the cooler adaptor which leads to the
cylinder block oil galleries. The engine coolant is pumped through the oil cooler and completely
surrounds the oil cooler core.
3.7.1 Repair or Replacement of Lubricating Oil Cooler (Plate Type)

See Figure 3-44.

Figure 3-44 Repair or Replacement of Lubricating Oil Cooler (Plate Type)
3.7.2 Removal of Lubricating Oil Cooler (Plate Type)
Remove the plate-type oil cooler as follows:

1. Open the drain cock, and drain the cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.3.

2. Remove the full flow oil filter. Refer to section 3.6.3.

3. Remove any accessories or equipment necessary to provide access to the oil cooler.
4. Loosen the clamps, and slide the hose down the water inlet elbow.
5. Remove the bolts and lock washers which retain the water inlet elbow to the oil cooler
housing.
6. Remove the elbow and gasket.
7. If a water outlet elbow is used, loosen the seal clamp, remove the bolts, nuts, and lock
washers, and withdraw the water outlet flange and seal, or water outlet elbow, seal, and
gasket.
8. Remove the bolts and lock washers. Withdraw the oil cooler housing and oil cooler core
as an assembly, using care to avoid dropping the oil cooler core.
9. If the engine is equipped with a twin plate oil cooler, remove the two outer bolts at
the top of the oil cooler cover, and install two studs (approximately 8-1/2 in. long and

with a 5/16 in.-18 thread at one end) to support the housing, oil cooler core, and cover.
See Figure 3-45.
1. Oil Cooler Core 11. Clamp

2. Adaptor 12. Hose
3. Spacers 13. Water Inlet Elbow
4. Gaskets 14. Drain Cock
5. Bypass Valve 15. Long Bolt
6. Spring 16. Cover
7. Seal Ring 17. Plate
8. Plug 18. Water Outlet Elbow
9. Lock Washer 19. Housing
10. Bolt
Figure 3-45 Twin Plate Oil Cooler

10. Remove the remaining bolts, lock washers, and two copper washers.
11. Remove the cover, oil cooler core, housing, and gaskets.
12. If the oil cooler adaptor is to be removed, remove the oil filter.
13. Remove the bolts and lock washers which attach the adaptor to the cylinder block, and
withdraw the adaptor and gaskets.
NOTE:
To remove the oil cooler adaptor used with the twin plate cooler, the adaptor plate must
be removed first.
14. Clean all gasket material from the cylinder block and the oil cooler components.
3.7.2.1 Cleaning of Lubricating Oil Cooler (Plate Type)
Prior to inspection, clean the plate-type oil cooler as follows:
PERSONAL INJURY
1. Circulate a solution of Tech Solv 340 through the cooler core oil passages with a force
pump.
NOTICE:
Do not attempt to clean an oil cooler core when an engine failure
occurs in which metal particles from worn or broken parts are
released into the lubricating oil. Replace the oil cooler core.
2. Clean the oil cooler core before the sludge hardens.
PERSONAL INJURY
3. If the oil passages are badly clogged, circulate an alkaline cleaning solution through the
oil cooler core, and flush it thoroughly with clean, hot water.

PERSONAL INJURY
NOTICE:
Precautions must be taken so the cleaning agents do not
corrode the tubes. If an acid solution is used, the residue must
be neutralized.
NOTICE:
released into the lubricating oil. In this instance, replace the oil
cooler core.
4. After cleaning the oil passages, immerse the water side of the oil cooler in a solution of
1/2 pound oxalic acid to each 2-1/2 gallons of a 1/3 muriatic acid and 2/3 water solution.
5. Observe the bubbling and foaming process, and remove the oil cooler core from the
solution when the bubbling stops. This usually takes from 30 to 60 seconds.
6. Thoroughly flush the oil cooler core with clean, hot water.
7. Dip the oil cooler core in light oil.
3.7.2.2 Inspection of Lubricating Oil Cooler (Plate Type)
Inspect the oil cooler as follows:

1. Inspect the vertical oil passage in the cylinder block for the cup plug that directs the flow
of oil through the oil cooler. See Figure 3-46.
1. Oil Cooler and Filter Adaptor 2. Bypass Valve
Figure 3-46 Oil Cooler Adaptor and Bypass Valve Mounting
NOTE:
High oil temperature or low oil pressure resulting from high oil temperature will occur if
the plug is missing.
[a] If missing, replace the cup plug. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
[b] If not missing, refer to section 3.7.2.3 and pressure check oil cooler.
3.7.2.3 Test Pressure Lubricating Oil Cooler (Plate Type)
Pressure check the oil cooler as follows:
NOTICE:
If a leaking oil cooler core has contaminated the engine, the
engine must be flushed immediately to prevent serious damage.
Refer to section 13.5.4 or refer to section 13.5.5.
1. Make a suitable plate, and attach it to the flanged side of the oil cooler core.
2. Use a rubber gasket to ensure a tight seal.

3. Drill and tap the plate to attach an air hose fitting at the inlet side of the oil cooler core.
See Figure 3-47.
1. Oil Cooler Core 3. Bolt and Nut Assemblies

2. Pressure Test Plate 4. Air Line
Figure 3-47 Oil Cooler Core Prepared for Pressure Check
EYE INJURY
4. Attach an air hose, and apply approximately 517-1.034 kPa (75-150) air pressure.
5. Submerge the oil cooler core and plate assembly in a tank of water heated to 82°C (180°F).
Air bubbles indicate leaks.
[a] If leaks are detected, replace the oil cooler core.
[b] If no leaks are detected, reuse the oil cooler core.
6. After the pressure check is completed, remove the plate and air hose.

EYE INJURY
7. Dry the oil cooler core with compressed air.
3.7.3 Installation of Lubricating Oil Cooler (Plate Type)
Install the plate-type oil cooler as follows:

1. Using new gaskets, attach the adaptor, if removed, to the cylinder block with bolts and
lock washers. See Figure 3-48.
1. Housing Gasket 9. Bypass Valve

2. Adaptor to Core Gasket 10. Spring
3. Short Bolt 11. O-ring Seal
4. Adaptor Bolt 12. Plug
5. Lock Washer 13. Oil Cooler Core
6. Adaptor Plate 14. Oil Cooler Housing
7. Spacer 15. Long Bolt
8. Adaptor to Block Gaskets 16. Drain Cock
Figure 3-48 Oil Cooler

2. If a twin plate oil cooler is used, use a new gasket, and attach the adaptor plate to the
oil cooler adaptor.
NOTE:
The current adaptor-to-block bolts with hardened washers will continue to be used.
These bolts are precoated with a lock and seal compound. If reusing the bolts, use
Loctite No. 567, (or equivalent) in the block bolt holes before bolt installation.
3. Affix new gaskets to the inner and outer flange faces, and insert the oil cooler core in the
oil cooler housing.
NOTICE:
The inlet and outlet openings in the oil cooler core are marked
"IN" and "OUT". Ensure the oil cooler core is reinstalled in its
original position, otherwise the oil flow will be reversed and
could allow foreign particles that may not have been removed
to loosen and circulate through the engine. If the openings
are unidentified, DDC suggests that they be marked before
reinstalling the oil cooler core.
4. Place the housing and oil cooler core against the adaptor, and secure them with bolts
and lock washers.
5. If a twin plate oil cooler is used, install two guide studs. Using new gaskets, slide the
housing, oil cooler core, and cover over the dowels in order.
6. Secure in place with bolts, lock washers, and new copper washers.
7. Remove the studs, and install the remaining two bolts and lock washers.
NOTE:
A tab is provided on current cover gaskets to ensure the gasket is installed correctly.
8. Install the water outlet flange and seal, or water outlet elbow, seal, and gasket. Secure the
flange or elbow to the cylinder block with bolts, nuts, and lock washers. If an elbow
is used, tighten the seal clamp.
9. Affix a new gasket to the oil cooler housing at the water inlet opening, and secure the
water inlet elbow to the housing with bolts and lock washers.
10. Slide the water inlet elbow hose in position, and tighten the clamps.
11. Install any accessories which were removed to provide access to the oil cooler.
12. Close the drain cock in the oil cooler housing, and fill the cooling system to the proper
level. Refer to section 13.12.
13. Add sufficient oil to the crankcase to bring the oil level to the proper level on the dipstick.
14. Start and run the engine for a short period, and check for oil and water leaks.

15. After any leaks have been corrected and the engine has been stopped long enough
crankcase, bring the oil level up to the proper level on the dipstick.

3.8 LUBRICATING OIL COOLER (TUBE TYPE)
Some engines are equipped with a tube-type oil cooler mounted on the side of the engine.
Torqmatic converter units use a single basic oil cooler which consists of two sections; one section
for the engine oil and the other section for the converter oil. See Figure 3-49.
1. Support Plate 5. Convertor Oil Cooler

2. Center Bolt 6. Bypass Valve
3. Junction Block 7. Engine Oil Cooler
4. Rear Cover
Figure 3-49 Tube Type Oil Cooler Mounting

The hydraulic retarder units use a dual oil cooler which one section cools the engine oil and three
sections cool the brake oil. See Figure 3-50.
1. Hydraulic Retarder Oil Cooler 4. Water Inlet Elbow

2. Oil Filters 5. Engine Oil Cooler
3. Cooler Front Cover
Figure 3-50 Dual Tube Type Oil Cooler Mounting

A serviceable tube type oil cooler with removable tube bundles is used on certain 8V engines.
The tube type oil cooler consists of a shell, two tube bundles, four seal rings, and a front and
rear cover. See Figure 3-51.
1. Shell Housing 4. "O" Mark

2. O-ring 5. Double Dot or Stripes
3. Tube Bundles
Figure 3-51 Tube Type Oil Cooler (Removable Bundles)
NOTE:
An improved fluoroelastomer seal ring is used in the single and dual tube type oil coolers.
The improved seal ring is used at four locations on the oil cooler and should be used at
overhaul or whenever the oil cooler is serviced. Only the current seal ring is serviced.
The coolant from the engine water pump flows through a passage in the oil cooler front cover,
passes through the oil cooler tubes, to the front cover outlet passage, and to the water jackets in
the cylinder block. See Figure 3-52.

1. End Casting 3. Tube Bundle

2. Baffle 4. Shell
Figure 3-52 Tube Type Oil Flow Diagrams

The engine oil from the lubricating oil pump enters a passage in the oil cooler front cover, passes
through the remote mounted oil filter, around the tubes in the engine section of the oil cooler,
through the outlet passage in the front cover, and to the cylinder block oil galleries.
A bypass valve permits the engine oil to flow directly through the oil cooler should the oil filter
become clogged.
Oil from the torqmatic converter or hydraulic retarder flows through a flexible hose connected
to an oil passage in the oil cooler front end-casting, through the converter or retarder oil cooler
sections, out an oil passage in the oil cooler rear end-casting, and to a flexible hose which carries
the cool oil back to the converter or hydraulic retarder.
3.8.1 Repair or Replacement of Oil Cooler (Tube Type)

See Figure 3-53.

Figure 3-53 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Oil Cooler (Tube Type)
3.8.2 Removal of Oil Cooler (Tube Type)
Remove the tube-type oil cooler as follows:

1. Open the drain cock, and drain the cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.3.

2. Disconnect the oil filter lines and the torque converter oil lines at the cooler. See Figure
3-54.
1. Drain Cock 8. Outlet Flange

2. Oil Cooler Assembly 9. Flange Gasket
3. Support Bracket 10. Gaskets
4. Lock Washer 11. Hose Clamps
5. Bolt 12. Inlet Tube Gasket
6. O-ring 13. Long Bolt
7. Clamp 14. Hose
Figure 3-54 Removal of Typical Tube Type Oil Cooler Assembly
3. Remove any accessories necessary to provide access to the oil cooler.

4. Loosen the clamps, and slide the hose down the water inlet elbow.

5. Remove the bolts and lock washers that attach the elbow to the oil cooler front cover, and
withdraw the elbow and gasket.
6. Loosen the clamp on the water outlet flange seal. Remove the bolts, nuts, and washers
that attach the flange to the cylinder block.
7. Remove the flange, gasket, seal, and clamp.
8. Remove the bolts and lock washers that attach the oil cooler to the cylinder block and the
oil cooler support bracket. Remove the oil cooler and the gaskets.
9. Drain the oil from the oil cooler.
NOTE:
The oil cooler tube bundles must be reinstalled in their respective positions. If necessary,
matchmark them before removing the tube bundles from the shell.
3.8.3 Disassembly of Oil Cooler (Tube Type)
Disassemble the removable tube type bundles as follows:
NOTE:
The tube bundles are serviced separately.
1. Place the shell vertically on the floor.

2. Remove the upper seal ring in the seal ring groove.
3. Remove the tube bundle from the shell.
NOTE:
The tube bundles fit snugly in the shell, but are easily removed. Use puller holes, located
in the ends of the tube bundles, to aid removal.
4. Remove the bottom seal ring from the seal ring groove.
3.8.3.1 Cleaning of Oil Cooler (Tube Type)
Prior to inspection, clean the tube-type oil cooler as follows:

1. Clean the engine oil portion of the tube-type oil cooler as follows:

PERSONAL INJURY
NOTICE:
Precautions must be taken so the cleaning agents do not
corrode the tubes. If an acid solution is used, the residue must
be neutralized.
NOTICE:
released into the lubricating oil. In this instance, replace the oil
cooler core.
2. Replace the oil bypass tube and the oil bypass valve assembly with a long tube connected
between the front and rear end castings of the oil cooler.
3. Seal the oil outlet-to-filter and oil inlet-to-filter openings in the front and rear oil cooler
covers with steel plates and gaskets.
4. Attach a steel plate, which is fitted with an air hose connection, to the oil outlet-to-engine
in the front cover.
EYE INJURY
5. Attach an air hose, which is connected to an air supply capable to maintain approximately
689 kPa (100 lb/in.2) pressure during solvent expulsion process.
6. Stand the oil cooler on end so the baffles inside the cooler shell are horizontal.

EYE INJURY
7. Fill the oil cooler with a cleaning solvent, and apply air pressure to expel the solvent
and sludge.
8. Refill the oil cooler with clean solvent, and attach the air hose fitting to the inlet side
of the cooler.
EYE INJURY
9. Apply air pressure to expel the solvent.

10. Repeatedly flush in alternate directions until the solvent comes out clean twice from
each direction.
11. Remove the tube which replaced the oil bypass tube and valve assembly.
12. Circulate a cleaning solvent through the oil passages to clean the torque converter.
13. Circulate a solvent, such as Oakite, through the tubes to clean the water side of the oil
cooler.
14. Remove the end covers, and run a brush through the tubes.
15. Rinse the tubes with clean, hot water.
3.8.3.2 Inspection of Oil Cooler (Tube Type)
Inspect the oil cooler as follows:

1. Visually inspect the spring retainer for warpage.
[a] If the retainer is warped, install a new valve assembly. Refer to section 3.8.5.
[b] If the retainer is not warped, continue inspection.
3.8.3.3 Inspection of Bypass Valve Spring Load (Tube Type)
Inspect the oil bypass valve as follows:

1. Remove the spring retainer screw, and withdraw the retainer, spring, and valve from
the valve housing.
2. Use spring tester J 22738-02 to check the valve spring load.
NOTE:
The bypass valve spring has a free length of approximately 2.015625 in.
[a] Replace the spring if a load of less than 2.9445 kg (6.5 pounds) will compress it
to a length of 20.6375 mm (0.8125 in.).
[b] If the spring passes the test, continue inspection.
3. Examine the spring retainer
[a] If the retainer is bent, install a new valve assembly.
[b] If the retainer is not bent, the valve assembly may be reused.
NOTE:
The current valve assembly has an increased bypass area around the spring retainer to
permit a larger volume of cold oil to bypass during engine starting.
3.8.4 Assembly of Oil Cooler Bundles (Tube Type)
Assemble tube-type oil cooler bundles as follows:
NOTE:
When rebuilding a tube type oil cooler, the current design oil cooler cannot be used with
a former design oil cooler in a twin oil cooler application. If one half of a former twin oil
cooler application needs replacing, replace both oil cooler halves.
NOTE:
For ease in assembling, each tube bundle is marked with an "O" and the cooler shell is
marked with an "O". See Figure 3-55. The "O's" must line up to ensure proper baffle
location in the shell. The tube bundles can be installed either end first.

1. Nut 10. Front Housing Gasket

2. Lock Washer 11. Front Cover
3. Spacer 12. Spacer Block
4. Gasket 13. Long Bolt
5. Pipe Plug 14. Small O-ring Seals
6. Rear Housing Gasket 15. Bolt
7. Rear End Cover 16. Cover
8. O-ring Seals 17. Tube
9. Tube Bundles
Figure 3-55 Exploded View Assembly of Typical Tube Type Oil Cooler
1. Place the shell vertically on the floor.

2. Install the bottom seal ring in the seal ring groove, and coat it with lubricating oil.
NOTE:
The seal ring groove must be free of burrs and foreign material.
3. Prior to inserting the tube bundle, inspect both ends of the element at the lead in chamfer
for nicks, dents, or burrs.
NOTE:
Ensure the correct bundle is used in its proper location prior to installation using the
bundle part number identification on the spacer bar for reference only.
NOTICE:
Do not directly hammer on the tubes in the bundles. Solder
breakage or tube damage could occur.
4. Insert the tube bundle into the shell, and carefully press the bundle just past the upper
seal ring groove.
5. Install the upper seal ring in the seal ring groove, and coat with lubricating oil.
6. Invert the tube and shell assembly, and press the tube bundle in the opposite direction. The
tube bundle should be flush with the shell at both ends.
NOTE:
The new front and rear covers have a 3/8 in. tang on the top and bottom surface to retain
the tube bundles in their proper position.
3.8.5 Assembly of Oil Cooler (Tube Type)
Assemble the oil cooler as follows:

1. Place the bypass valve and spring in the valve housing.
2. Install the spring retainer.
3. Install a new seal ring in each oil bypass tube flange, and slide one flange over each
end of the tube.
4. Attach a new gasket to each flange.
5. Install two 3/8 in.-16 x 5 in. bolts, with lock washers, through the flange and gasket at
one end of the tube. Place the bypass valve assembly and a new gasket over the ends of
the bolts.
6. Place the oil bypass valve and tube assembly in position, and thread the bolts into the
front end casting of the oil cooler.
7. Install two 3/8 in.-16 x 3.5 in. bolts and lock washers in the flange at the other end of the
tube. Tighten all four bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft) torque.
8. Install the oil hole covers and gaskets used on the opposite side of the oil cooler, if
previously removed.

9. Use a new front gasket and attach the front cover to the oil cooler with ten 3/8 in.- 16 x 3 in.
bolts and lock washers. See Figure 3-56. Tighten the bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft)
torque.
1. Nut 10. Front Housing Gasket

2. Lock Washer 11. Front Cover
3. Spacer 12. Spacer Block
4. Gasket 13. Long Bolt
5. Pipe Plug 14. Small O-ring Seals
6. Rear Housing Gasket 15. Bolt
7. Rear End Cover 16. Cover
8. O-ring Seals 17. Tube
9. Tube Bundles
Figure 3-56 Exploded View Assembly of Typical Tube Type Oil Cooler

10. Use a new rear gasket, and attach the rear cover to the oil cooler with ten 3/8 in.-16 x 3 in.
bolt and lock washers. Tighten the bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft) torque.
11. On the single tube type oil cooler, use a new gasket, and attach the junction block to the
oil cooler rear cover with six 3/8 in.-16 x 1 in. bolts and lock washers.
12. Install the 3/8 in.-16 x 2 in. center bolt and lock washer. Tighten the bolts to 41-47 N·m
13. On a dual tube type oil cooler, assemble the two rear cooler cover support plates, the upper
retainer plate, and the necessary 1.5748 mm (0.062 in.) shims with three 3/8 in.-16 x
1.625 in. bolts. See Figure 3-57.
1. Retainer Plate (Lower) 4. Retainer Plate (Upper)

2. Center Bolt 5. Rear Cover Support Plate
3. Support Plate to Flywheel Housing 6. Rear Cover
Figure 3-57 Dual Tube Type Oil Cooler

14. Assemble the lower retainer plate and necessary 1.5748 mm (0.062 in.) shims, using a
new gasket between the oil cooler cover and support plate, with five 3/8 in.-16 x 1.125 in.
bolts and lock washers. Include the center bolt and lock washer. Tighten the bolts to
41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft) torque.
3.8.6 Installation of Oil Cooler (Tube Type)
Install the tube-type oil cooler as follows:

1. Attach new gaskets to the mounting pads on the oil cooler front cover. Place the oil cooler
in position against the cylinder block. See Figure 3-58.
1. Drain Cock 8. Outlet Flange

2. Oil Cooler Assembly 9. Flange Gasket
3. Support Bracket 10. Gaskets
4. Lock Washer 11. Hose Clamps
5. Bolt 12. Inlet Tube Gasket
6. O-ring 13. Long Bolt
7. Clamp 14. Hose
Figure 3-58 Installation of Typical Oil Cooler Assembly
2. Secure the front end of the oil cooler to the cylinder block with four 3/8 in.-16 x 2.25 in.
bolts and lock washers.

3. Secure the rear end of the oil cooler to the support bracket with four 3/8 in.-16 x 1 in. bolts
and lock washers. Tighten all oil cooler mounting bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft) torque.
4. Place the water outlet flange seal and clamp in position. Use a new gasket and install
the flange.
5. Install new copper washers with the two bolts. Tighten the bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35
lb·ft) torque and the nuts to 47-53 N·m (35-39 lb·ft) torque.
6. Use a new gasket, and attach the water inlet elbow to the oil cooler front cover with four
3/8 in.-16 x 1.125 in. bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts to 41-47 N·m (30·35 lb-ft)
torque.
7. Slide the water inlet elbow hose in place, and tighten the clamps.
8. Connect the oil filter and torque converter oil lines to the oil cooler.
9. Install any accessories that were removed to provide access to the oil cooler.
10. Install any pipe plugs that were removed.
11. Close the drain cock in the oil cooler rear cover, and fill the cooling system to the proper
level. Refer to section 13.12.
12. Add sufficient oil to the crankcase to bring the oil level to the proper level on the dipstick.
14. After any oil leaks have been corrected, and the engine has been stopped long enough
crankcase, bring the oil level up to the proper level on the dipstick.

3.9 LUBRICATING OIL COOLER BYPASS VALVE
To ensure engine lubrication should the oil cooler become plugged, a bypass valve is installed
in the inlet passage of the oil cooler adaptor. The valve opens and allows the oil to bypass the
oil cooler when the pressure at the inlet side exceeds the pressure at the outlet side by 276 kPa
(40 lb/in.2).
The bypass valve assembly, which consists of a valve, spring, retaining plug, and gasket, should
be removed, cleaned, and reassembled whenever the oil cooler core is cleaned or replaced. The
bypass valve can be disassembled without removing the oil cooler on most models.

A current bypass valve spring has been released to provide increased oil circulation through the
lube oil coolers. The current valve spring (65.02 mm [2.56 in.], orange paint identification)
replaces the former spring (50.8 mm [2 in.], no paint identification) in the engine models that
use the adaptors. See Figure 3-59.
1. Bolt 7. Gasket
2. Lock Washer 8. Bypass Valve
3. Fittings (2) 9. Seal
4. Bypass Line 10. Plug
5. Elbow Fitting 11. Spring
6. Oil Cooler Assembly 12. Bypass Valve Housing
Figure 3-59 Oil Cooler Bypass Valve

3.9.1 Repair or Replacement of Lubricating Oil Cooler Bypass Valve

See Figure 3-60.
Figure 3-60 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Lubricating Oil Cooler

Bypass Valve
3.9.2 Removal of Lubricating Oil Cooler Bypass Valve
Remove the lubricating oil cooler bypass valve as follows:

1. Remove the retaining plug.
2. Withdraw the seal, spring, and valve from the oil cooler adaptor.

3.9.2.1 Cleaning of Lubricating Oil Cooler Bypass Valve
Clean the lubricating oil cooler bypass valve as follows:
FIRE
vapors:
1. Clean the bypass valve components with fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
3.9.2.2 Inspection of Lubricating Oil Cooler Bypass Valve
Inspect the lubricating oil cooler bypass valve as follows:

1. Remove the spring retainer screw, and withdraw the retainer, spring, and valve from
the valve housing.
NOTE:
The bypass valve spring has a free length of approximately 2-1/64 in.
2. Use spring tester J 22738-02 to check the valve spring load.

[a] Replace the spring if a load of less than 2.9445 kg (6.5 pounds) will compress it
to a length of 20.6375 mm (0.8125 in.).
[b] If the spring passes the test, it may be reused.

3.9.3 Installation of Lubricating Oil Cooler Bypass Valve
Install the lubricating oil cooler bypass valve as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Apply clean engine oil to the outside surface of the valve, and place it in the oil cooler
adaptor valve cavity, closed end first.
NOTE:
Some oil cooler adaptors should be updated with the new spring at time of overhaul.
This spring should also be replaced at each major engine overhaul.
2. Place the spring inside the valve, and place a new seal ring on the retaining plug.
3. Install and tighten the plug to 41-54 N·m (30-40 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
A slotted bypass valve plug is used with the oil cooler adaptor plug on some engines.
Tighten this plug to 34-41 N·m (25-30 lb·ft) torque.

3.10 OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK
A steel ribbon type oil level dipstick is used to check the oil quantity in the engine oil pan. The
dipstick is in the cylinder block or the oil pan. See Figure 3-61. Current engines include a 19.1 mm
(0.75 in.) long rubber oil seal inside the dipstick cap. This prevents vapors from escaping.
1. Dipstick Tube 3. Adaptor

2. Oil Level Dipstick
Figure 3-61 Typical Dipstick Mounting
Maintain the oil level between the full and low marks on the dipstick, and never allow it to drop
below the low mark. Overfilling will cause the crankshaft to churn the oil, causing foaming or
oil aeration. Operation below the low mark will expose the pump pick-up causing aeration
and/or pressure loss.
Check the oil level after the engine has been stopped for a minimum of twenty minutes to permit
oil in the various engine parts to drain back into the oil pan.

Use dipsticks only when the engine powered equipment is on a level surface. Improper oil levels
can result if the oil level is checked with the equipment on a grade.
Dipsticks in marine engines are located and marked to provide the proper oil level at any angle
within the recommended maximum installation angle applicable to the specific boat.
In a properly filled crankcase, the oil level must be below the crankshaft rear oil seal when the
boat is at rest.
Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for running level dimensions and applications.
3.10.1 Repair or Replacement of Oil Level Dipstick

See Figure 3-62.
Figure 3-62 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Oil Level Dipstick

3.10.2 Removal of Oil Level Dipstick
Remove the oil level dipstick as follows:

1. Remove the dipstick from the dipstick tube.
2. Remove the dipstick tube assembly, copper seal, and dipstick adaptor from the cylinder
block.
3. Discard the copper seal.
3.10.2.1 Inspection of Oil Level Dipstick
Inspect the oil level dipstick as follows:

1. Inspect the dipstick assembly for any damaged parts.
[a] If damaged, replace the parts. Refer to section 3.10.3.
2. Check components for any broken or pinched parts.
[a] If broken or pinched, replace with new parts. Refer to section 3.10.3.
[b] If not broken or pinched, reuse the dipstick and components.
3.10.3 Installation of Oil Level Dipstick
Install the oil level dipstick as follows:

1. Install the dipstick adaptor into the cylinder block. Tighten to 22 N·m (16 lb·ft) torque.
2. Insert the new copper seal, and thread the oil gage tube assembly nut into the adaptor.
3. While holding the adaptor with a wrench, properly align the oil gage tube assembly.
4. Securely tighten the nut on the tube.
5. Install the dipstick and tube assembly.

3.11 OIL PAN
The engine may be equipped with a stamped steel, cast iron, or aluminum oil pan. Either a
one-piece oil pan or an upper and lower pan bolted together may be used. See Figure 3-63.
Certain 16V engines are equipped with an upper oil pan and two lower pans. See Figure 3-64.
Depending upon the model application, oil pans permit an engine inclination up to 45 degrees.
1. Cylinder Block 5. Drain Plug

3. Washer 7. Oil Pan
4. Bolt 8. Pipe Plug
Figure 3-63 Oil Pan Assembly (6V and 8V Engines)

3.11 OIL PAN
1. Drain Plugs 6. Bolt

2. Rear Lower Oil Pan 7. Bolt
3. Lower Pan Gasket 8. Upper Oil Pan
4. Baffle 9. Front Lower Oil Pan
5. Lower to Upper Pan Gasket 10. Upper Oil Pan Gasket
Some oil pans are provided with an oil level dipstick adaptor and oil filler adaptor mounting holes.

Figure 3-64 Oil Pan Assembly (16V Engines)
3.11.1 Repair or Replacement of Oil Pan

See Figure 3-65.

3.11 OIL PAN
Figure 3-65 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Oil Pan
3.11.2 Removal of Oil Pan
Remove the oil pan as follows:

NOTICE:
The stamped metal oil pans used on some marine engines have
a thin protective coating to shield the metal against the salt water
atmosphere. Do not rest, slide, or rock the engine on its oil pan.
If the surface of the oil pan is scratched, electrolysis will occur
and damage the oil pan. Exercise care when performing engine
repairs to avoid scratching the outer oil pan surfaces.
1. Remove the drain plug, and drain the oil. Refer to section 13.5.2.
NOTICE:
Remove the oil pump carefully to avoid damage to the oil pump
piping and inlet screen.
2. Remove the bolt and washer assemblies, and detach the oil pan.
3.11.2.1 Cleaning of Oil Pan
Clean the oil pan as follows:

1. Clean all old gasket material from the cylinder block and the oil pan.
FIRE
vapors:
2. Clean the oil pan with fuel oil.

3.11 OIL PAN
EYE INJURY
3.11.2.2 Inspection of Oil Pan
Inspect the oil pan as follows:

1. Inspect a cast oil pan for porosity or cracks and a stamped oil pan for dents or other
damage.
[a] If cracked, porous, dented, or damaged, replace the oil pan.
[b] If not cracked, porous, dented, or damaged, continue inspection.
2. Check for misaligned flanges or raised surfaces surrounding the bolt holes.
NOTE:
Place the pan on a surface plate or other large flat surface.
[a] If misaligned or raised, replace. Refer to section 3.11.3.
3.11.3 Installation of Oil Pan
Install the oil pan as follows:

1. When installing the oil pan on a 6V or 8V engine, use a new gasket(s).
NOTE:
Do not overtighten the bolts.
2. Starting with the center bolt on each side, and working alternately toward each end of the
pan, tighten the bolts to 14-27 N·m (10-20 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
Current oil pan bolts (stamped metal pans) are coated with locking material. To
re-activate the bolt locking ability, apply a few drops of Loctite 567 (or equivalent) to the
bolt threads at assembly.
3. When installing the upper oil pan on a 16V engine, use a new gasket(s), and position the
oil pan against the cylinder block and flywheel housing.
4. Install all of the 3/8 in.-16 oil pan attaching bolts and lock washers finger-tight only.

5. Install the two 3/4 in.-10 oil pan-to-flywheel housing bolts and lock washers to draw the
oil pan tight against the flywheel housing.
6. Tighten the 3/8 in.-16 oil pan bolts to draw the oil pan tight against the cylinder block.
7. Tighten the 3/4 in.-10 bolts to 325-339 N·m (240-250 lb·ft) torque and the 3/8 in.-16 oil
pan bolts to 14-27 N·m (10-20 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
When tightening the oil pan bolts, tighten the center bolts first working alternately toward
each end of the oil pan.
8. Install the lower oil pans, and tighten the 5/16 in.-18 attaching bolts to 14-16 N·m
(10-12 lb·ft).
9. Install and tighten the drain plug to 34-47 N·m (25-35 lb·ft) torque.
10. Fill the oil pan with new oil to the full mark on the dipstick. Refer to section 13.5.1.
11. Start and run the engine for a short period to check for oil leaks.
12. Stop the engine and, after approximately twenty minutes, check the oil level. Add oil, if
necessary.

3.12 VENTILATING SYSTEM
A continuous pressurized ventilating system removes the harmful vapors that may form within
the crankcase, gear train, and valve compartment.
Breathing is accomplished through two openings in the crankcase rear main bearing bulkhead
and one large hole in the cylinder block rear end plate. They connect to a central chamber that
leads to an exit at the top of the cylinder block.

The external tube(s) connects the cylinder block exit hole at the rear of the cylinder head(s).
See Figure 3-66.
1. Breather Tube 6. Washer

2. Hose 7. Lock Washer
3. Breather Elbow 8. Bolt
4. Gasket 9. Clamps
5. Cylinder Head
Figure 3-66 Ventilating System (Cylinder Head Mounted)

The current left-bank cylinder head-to-cylinder block breather system used on 6V engines is used
in 8V engines effective with 8VF-017875. See Figure 3-67. An elbow is bolted to the side of the
cylinder head and a tube pressed in the opening at the top rear end of the cylinder block. They are
joined with a rubber hose and clamps. Because of clearance considerations, the former breather
system is still used for the right-bank cylinder head-to-cylinder block breather system. It will
continue to be used on both banks for certain engine applications.
1. Screw 5. Rocker Cover

2. Retainer 6. Seal
3. Mesh Element 7. Breather Assembly
4. Retainer Holder
Figure 3-67 Ventilating System (Rocker Cover Mounted)

Effective with engine serial number 6VF-105223, the right-bank rocker cover breather and
associated hardware have been removed from 6V-TA, TTA automotive and 6V-TA upright coach
engines. Right-bank rocker cover breather removal affects 6V-TA, TTA automotive and 6V
upright coach engines only. Failure to use a rocker cover breather on the left-bank head can result
in excessively high engine crankcase pressure. Excessive pressure can cause crankshaft oil seal
leakage and/or oil loss through the dipstick tube.
The rocker cover(s) provides a large cross-sectional air flow area at maximum height for efficient
breathing and oil separation. A breather assembly is mounted at the openings in the rocker
cover(s).
No disassembly is required to index the breather assembly exhaust outlet on the current aluminum
die cast valve rocker covers. Insert a 28.575 mm (1.125 in.) outer diameter pipe or wood dowel
into the exhaust outlet. Apply pressure, and rotate the outlet to the desired location.
A closed crankcase vapor collector system is used on all maximum rated marine engines, effective
June, 1991. The current closed breather system consists of a collector assembly mounted to
the inlet side of each turbocharger, plus oil drain tube(s), check valve(s), breather piping, and
mounting hardware. The system collects the crankcase vapors normally emitted to atmosphere,
filters the outside air entering the turbocharger, and reduces air induction noise.
3.12.1 Repair or Replacement of Ventilating System
Refer to OEM for repair or replacement procedures.


Description Page
SHOP NOTES ................................................................................................... 3-131

RUNNING LEVEL DIPSTICK DIMENSION AND APPLICATIONS ................ 3-131
Contaminated Cooling System ................................................................... 3-132
EXCEPTIONS TO STANDARD BOLT AND NUT TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS .................................................................................. 3-133
SHOP NOTES
The shop notes for the lubrication system are as follows:
RUNNING LEVEL DIPSTICK DIMENSION AND APPLICATIONS
Running level dipsticks are available on certain coach engines. These dipsticks permit accurate
oil level reading with the engine at idle (running level) or at rest (static level). Running
level dipsticks are identified by a number on the end of their handle listed in Table 3-1 and
listed in Table 3-2. See Figure 3-68.
Figure 3-68 Running Oil Level Dipstick

Dipstick Tag X mm Y mm Z mm Yr mm Zr mm
Part No. Identification (in.) (in.) (in.) (in.) (in.)
763.778 644.398 30.48 706.374 32.512
8927986 6V-92 RTS
(30.07) (25.37) (1.20) (27.81) (1.28)
731.012 579.628 30.48 666.75 38.862
23500738 6V-92 FLX
(28.78) (22.82) (1.20) (26.25) (1.53)
680.466 521.716 40.132 599.694 40.132
23504602 6V-92 Breda
(26.79) (20.54) (1.58) (23.61) (1.58)
763.778 30.48 706.374 32.512
23506189 Blank No Mark
(30.07) (1.20) (27.81) (1.28)
765.048 682.752 28.448 730.25 28.448
23506866 Orion 6V-92
(30.12) (26.88) (1.12) (28.75) (1.12)
863.6 774.7 28.448 822.452 28.448
23506867 Eagle 6V-92
(34.00) (30.50) (1.12) (32.38) (1.12)
692.658 609.6 17.018 635.00 17.018
23507426 6V-71 FLX
(27.27) (24.00) (0.67) (25.00) (0.67)
Table 3-1 Dipstick Dimensions
Dipstick Part Tag P/Catalog

Coach Tube Shroud UPC Group
No. Identification Type
TMC/RTS 8927986 6V-92 RTS 8923098 5120861 6G4-1124 1165
TMC/RTS 8927986 6V-92 RTS 23503748 5120861 6G4-1155 1188
TMC/RTS 23506189 Blank 8923098 5120861 6G4-1188 1216
Flexible 23500738 6V-92 FLX 5129525 5176827 6G4-1123 1163
Flexible 23507426 6L-71 FLX 23507427 5176827 6G4-1199 1236
Orion 23506866 Orion 6V-92 5127271 23506868 6G4-1200 1228
Eagle 23506867 Eagle 6V-92 8921838 5120861 6G4-1201 1243
Breda 23504602 6V92 BREDA 5129525 23504601 6G4-1174 1199
Table 3-2 Dipstick Application
When running level dipsticks are installed in place of static level dipsticks, the appropriate shroud
must be used. In most cases, the tube already installed may be used.
NOTE:
Failure to install the correct shroud will result in inaccurate running level oil measurement.
Contaminated Cooling System
If the engine has had a failure resulting in the contamination of the cooling system with lubrication
oil, the following flushing procedure is recommended:
1. Prepare a mixture of Calgon, or its equivalent, and water at the rate of 2 ounces (dry
measure) to one gallon of water.
2. Remove the engine thermostat (refer to section 4.5.2) to permit the Calgon and water
mixture to circulate through the engine and the radiator.
3. Fill the cooling system with the Calgon solution.

4. Run the engine for five minutes.

5. Drain the cooling system.
6. Refer to step 3 through step 5, repeat these steps.
7. Fill the cooling system with clean water.
9. Drain the cooling system completely.
10. Install the engine thermostat. Refer to section 4.5.3.
11. Close all of the drains and refill the engine with fresh coolant. Refer to section 13.12.2.
Listed in Table 3-3 are the exceptions to standard bolt and nut torque specifications.
Application Thread Size Torque

Oil Pan Bolts (Lower Pan) 5/15-18 14-16 N·m (10-12 lb·ft)
Oil Pan Bolts 3/8-16 14-27 N·m (10-20 lb·ft)
Lubricating Oil Filter Center Stud 5/8-18 68-81 N·m (50-60 lb·ft)
Oil Pan Drain Plug (Nylon Washer) 18 mm 34-47 N·m (25-35 lb·ft)
Table 3-3 Bolt and Nut Torque Specifications

4 COOLING SYSTEM
Section Page
4.1 COOLING SYSTEM ................................................................................ 4-3

4.2 WATER PUMP (6V AND 8V ENGINES) .................................................. 4-5
4.3 WATER PUMP (12V AND 16V ENGINES) .............................................. 4-23
4.4 WATER MANIFOLD ................................................................................ 4-36
4.5 THERMOSTAT ........................................................................................ 4-40
4.6 RADIATOR .............................................................................................. 4-50
4.7 COOLANT PRESSURE CONTROL CAP ................................................ 4-63
4.8 ENGINE COOLING FAN .......................................................................... 4-66
4.9 HEAT EXCHANGER ............................................................................... 4-94
4.10 RAW WATER PUMP ................................................................................ 4-102
4.11 COOLANT FILTER AND CONDITIONER ................................................ 4-116
4.1 COOLING SYSTEM
To effectively dissipate the engine heat, one of three different types of cooling systems is used on
the engine: radiator and fan, heat exchanger and raw water pump, or keel cooling. Each system
is provided with a centrifugal-type water pump that circulates the engine coolant. Each system
incorporates thermostats to maintain a normal engine operating temperature. Refer to section 11.5.
Upon starting a cold engine or when the coolant is below operating temperature, the thermostat
blocks or restricts the coolant flow to the radiator. A bypass provides coolant circulation within
the engine during the warm-up period.
In a radiator cooling system, the water pump draws and forces the coolant from the lower portion
of the radiator through the oil cooler housing and into the cylinder block. See Figure 4-1.
1. Oil Cooler 3. Water Pump

2. Thermostat
Figure 4-1 Typical Cooling System

4.1 COOLING SYSTEM
From the cylinder block, the coolant passes through the cylinder heads and, when the engine is
at normal operating temperature, through the thermostats into the upper portion of the radiator.
The coolant passes a series of tubes, where the air stream created by the revolving fan lowers the
In the heat exchanger cooling system, the water pump draws the coolant from the heat exchanger
and forces it through the engine oil cooler, cylinder block, cylinder heads, and exhaust manifolds
to the thermostat housings. A bypass from the thermostat housings to the inlet side of the water
pump permits coolant circulation through the engine when the thermostats are closed.
When the thermostats are open, the coolant flows through the heat exchanger, where it is cooled.
An engine-driven raw water pump circulates raw water (sea water) through the heat exchanger to
lower the engine coolant temperature.
In the keel cooling system, the water pump draws the coolant from the keel cooler and forces
it through the engine oil cooler, cylinder block, cylinder heads, and exhaust manifolds to
the thermostat housings. A bypass from the thermostat housings to the inlet side of the water
pump permits coolant circulation through the engine when the thermostats are closed. When
the thermostats open, the coolant flows through the keel cooling coils. Engine coolant heat is
transferred through the keel cooler coils to the surrounding sea water.
The engine coolant absorbs the heat developed from the combustion process in the cylinders
and from engine components, such as, exhaust valves, pistons, and cylinder liners, which are
surrounded by water jackets. The engine coolant in the oil-to-water oil cooler dissipates oil
absorbed heat. When operating within the proper temperature range and not exceeding the
recommended horsepower output of the unit, all engine parts will be within their designated
operating temperature range and at their proper operating clearances. Coolant must be properly
selected and maintained. Refer to section 5.3 for coolant recommendations.
HOT COOLANT
To avoid scalding from the expulsion of hot coolant, never
remove the cooling system pressure cap while the engine
is at operating temperature. Wear adequate protective
clothing (face shield, rubber gloves, apron, and boots).
Remove the cap slowly to relieve pressure.
A pressurized cooling system, which normally operates at temperatures higher than a

non-pressurized system, is used. The cooling system must be kept clean and leak proof. The filler
cap and pressure relief mechanism must be correctly installed, and the coolant level must be
properly maintained.

4.2 WATER PUMP (6V AND 8V ENGINES)
On 6V and 8V engines, the centrifugal-type pump circulates the engine coolant through the
cylinder block, cylinder heads, radiator or heat exchanger, and the oil cooler. See Figure 4-2.
1. Oil Cooler 3. Water Pump

2. Thermostat
Figure 4-2 Typical Cooling System
The pump is mounted on the engine front cover. The 66–tooth front camshaft gear (water pump
drive) drives the water pump. The water pump gear has 42 teeth and meshes with the water
pump drive gear.
A bronze impeller is secured to one end of a stainless steel shaft by a locknut. The water pump
gear is pressed on the opposite end of the shaft. Two ball bearings are used to carry the shaft.
The larger bearing is used at the drive gear end of the shaft to accommodate the thrust load.
See Figure 4-3.

1. Retaining Ring 10. Washer

2. Pump Cover 11. Lock Washer
3. Seal Ring (2) 12. Retaining Ring
4. Impeller 13. Gear
5. Insert 14. Shaft and Bearing Assembly
6. Water Seal Assembly 15. Pump Body
7. Short Bolt 16. Long Bolt
8. Oil Seal 17. Locknut
9. Plug
Figure 4-3 Current/Former High-Capacity Water Pump
An oil seal is located in front of the smaller bearing. A spring-loaded face-type water seal is
used behind the impeller.

Current engines use a higher capacity water pump, which provides increased coolant
circulation. The pump has a larger impeller, larger diameter inlet and outlet openings, and a
retaining-ring-secured pump cover.
Current fresh water pumps with increased coolant flow and sealing characteristics are used on
engines using high-capacity pumps. The current pump bodies incorporate a cast-in upper "dam"
and cast-in seal cavity and drain boss which act to divide incoming coolant flow and direct it more
efficiently through the pump. See Figure 4-4. The "Y" drilled drain passage has been eliminated.
1. Seal 2. Cast-in Drain
Figure 4-4 Divided Inlet High-Capacity Water Pump

The unitized seal has a high grade carbon face, a stainless steel case, and a shroud. See Figure
4-5. Because of its design, the unitized seal provides improved resistance to leakage even after
high engine hours or mileage.
Figure 4-5 Water Pump Seal

The seal incorporates two silicon carbide faces as part of its assembly. See Figure 4-6.
1. Seal 2. Impeller
Figure 4-6 Water Pump Seal and Impeller

In order to further improve water pump cover sealing, a non-metallic cover and a scalloped
retaining ring is used on the fresh water pump. See Figure 4-7.
Figure 4-7 Cover and Retaining Ring
4.2.1 Repair or Replacement of Water Pump (6V and 8V Engine)

See Figure 4-8.

Figure 4-8 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Water Pump(6V and 8V

Engine)
4.2.2 Removal of Water Pump (6V and 8V Engines)
Remove the water pump as follows:


2. Remove the radiator, fan shroud, and fan or heat exchanger, if necessary.
3. Loosen the hose clamps, and remove the hoses from the pump body.
NOTICE:
Use care to prevent damage to the gear teeth when disengaging
the pump gear from the front camshaft gear (water pump drive
gear).
4. Remove the pump body-to-engine front cover mounting bolts, and detach the pump.
5. Grasp the pump firmly, and remove the two pump body-to-engine front cover bolts and
lock washers.
NOTICE:
Use care to prevent damage to the gear teeth when removing the
two pump body-to-engine front cover bolts and lock washers.
6. Detach the water pump.
4.2.3 Disassembly of Water Pump (6V and 8V Engines)
Disassemble the water pump as follows:

1. Turn the pump gear so the slot is over the bearing retaining-ring ends.

EYE INJURY
2. Insert pliers J 4646 into the slot, and with the aid of a small screwdriver, remove the
retaining ring from the groove. See Figure 4-9.
1. Water Pump Assembly 2. Water Pump Gear
Figure 4-9 Removing Retaining Ring using Tool J 4646
3. Remove the pump cover bolts, pump cover, and gasket. Discard the gasket.
4. Remove the scalloped cover retaining snap ring.
NOTE:
On high-capacity water pumps, use extreme care when removing or installing the
scalloped cover retaining snap ring, but do not remove the seal ring.
5. Remove the pump cover, but do not remove the seal ring.

NOTICE:
While holding the gear, use care to prevent damage to the gear
teeth.
6. Hold the gear securely, and remove the impeller locknut and washer.
7. Use puller J 24420-C to remove the impeller.
8. Press the shaft, bearings, and pump gear assembly out of the pump body.
9. Place the gear on an arbor press bed with the shaft extending downward, and place a short
piece of 15.88 mm (0.625 in.) diameter bar stock between the shaft and the press ram.
10. Press the shaft out of the gear. See Figure 4-10.
1. Bearing and Shaft Assembly 2. Water Pump Gear
Figure 4-10 Pressing Gear on Pump Shaft using Tool J 25257
11. Support the shaft assembly on the inner race of the larger bearing with the threaded end
down.
12. Place flat stock between the press ram and the shaft. Press the pump shaft out of the
large bearing.
13. Invert the shaft, and support it on the inner race of the small bearing.
14. Place flat stock between the press ram and the shaft.

15. Press the pump shaft out of the small bearing.
NOTE:
If necessary, remove the water seal. Use channel-lock-type pliers to grasp the metal
flange around the upper portion of the seal, and twist it firmly to break the seal and boot
assembly away from the case. Avoid damaging the pump shaft during this operation.
16. Insert seal removal tool J 22150-B in the pump, and secure it in place with the pump
cover snap ring, bolts, or retaining nuts.
NOTE:
On the 6V and 8V high-capacity water pump, the cover seal ring should be left in place
to avoid damage to the seal ring groove.
17. Turn puller shaft nut J 22150-B counterclockwise until the spears pierce the water seal
case.
18. Turn the puller shaft clockwise one eighth of a turn to lock the spears in place.
19. Rotate the puller shaft nut clockwise to remove the water seal.
20. Disengage the seal removal tool from the pump.
21. On the 6V and 8V high-capacity water pump, remove and discard the cover seal ring.
22. Push the oil seal out of the pump body.
NOTE:
New seals and a new impeller must be used each time the water and oil seals are
removed or at water pump overhaul.
4.2.3.1 Cleaning of Water Pump (6V and 8V Engines)
Clean the water pump as follows:

FIRE
vapors:
1. Wash all pump parts in clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
4.2.3.2 Inspection of Water Pump (6V and 8V Engines)
Inspect the water pump as follows:

1. Inspect the water seal for cracks, wear, or damage.
[a] If cracked, worn, or damaged, replace the water seal. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
[b] If not cracked, worn, or damaged, continue inspection.
2. Inspect the water pump impeller for wear and erosion.
[a] If worn or eroded, replace the impeller. Refer to section 4.2.4.
[b] If not worn or eroded, continue inspection.
3. Inspect the bolts with nylon inserts for sufficient protrusion beyond the threads.
[a] If not protruding sufficiently, securely tighten the nuts or bolts.
[b] If sufficiently protruding, continue inspection.
4. Visually inspect the bearings for corrosion, pitting, wear, and freedom of movement.

[a] If excessively corroded, pitted, worn, or lacks freedom of movement, replace the
NOTE:
When replacing one bearing, both must be replaced.
[b] If bearings are not corroded, pitted, worn, or lack freedom, proceed with inspection.
USED ENGINE OIL

5. Apply engine oil to the bearings. Hold the inner race, and slowly revolve the outer race
to check for roughness.
[a] If rough, replace the bearings. Refer to section 4.2.4.
NOTE:
[b] If not rough, they may be reused. Continue inspection, refer to section 4.2.5.1.
4.2.4 Assembly of Water Pump (6V and 8V Engines)
Assemble the water pump as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lubricate the bearing bores in the pump body and the bearing surfaces on the shaft with
clean engine oil.

NOTICE:
To avoid bearing damage, apply pressure to the inner race of the
bearings during assembly onto the shaft.
2. Use bearing and gear installer J 25257, and install the bearings on the shaft. See Figure
4-11.
1. Inner Bearing 3. Shaft

2. Outer Bearing
Figure 4-11 Pressing Bearing on Pump Shaft using J 25257
3. Support the pump body on an arbor press bed with the cover side down.
NOTICE:
To avoid bearing damage, apply pressure to the outer race of the
large bearing when installing the shaft and bearing assembly in
the retainer.
4. Apply pressure on the large bearing outer race to press the shaft and bearing assembly
in place.
5. Install the bearing retaining (snap) ring.

6. With gear installer J 25257 positioned on the impeller end of the shaft, place the gear
between the shaft and the ram of the press. See Figure 4-12.
1. Inner Bearing 4. Gear

2. Shaft 5. Pump Body
3. Outer Bearing
7. Press the gear on the shaft so it is flush with the end of the shaft.
NOTE:
Tool J 25257 will hold the shaft vertically to ensure the gear is pressed squarely on
the shaft.
Assemble seal as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Apply a film of clean engine oil to the sealing lip of the oil seal and the lip contact
surface of the shaft.

2. Slip the seal over the shaft and press into the pump body with the spring-loaded lip
toward the bearing.
3. Use a suitable sleeve, and tap the seal into place ensuring that the oil seal is flush with
the water seal counterbore body.
4. Place the pump body on an arbor press bed.
5. To reduce possible coolant leakage, apply a light coat of Loctite 290 sealant on the outside
diameter of a new water seal.
6. Slip the unitized seal over the shaft and into the pump body with the wide flange side
facing the bearings.
NOTICE:
Seal installer J 38858 must be used to set the seal to its proper
installed height. Failure to do so may cause coolant leakage
leading to engine damage.
7. Using seal installer J 38858, press the seal into place.

Assemble impeller as follows:
1. Ensure that the mating surfaces of the water seal and the impeller are free of dirt, metal
particles, and oil film.
2. Apply a small quantity of INTERNATIONAL COMPOUND #2®, or equivalent to the
threads of the pump shaft.
3. Place the impeller washer and new locknut on the shaft.
NOTICE:
Do not damage the gear teeth while holding the gear.
4. Hold the pump gear securely while drawing the impeller down on the tapered shaft with
the locknut. Tighten the locknut to 47-61 N·m (35-45 lb·ft) torque.
5. Install the hose on the water outlet opening, and secure it with clamps.
4.2.5 Installation of Water Pump (6V and 8V Engines)
Install the water pump as follows:

1. Affix the seal ring to the pump body.
2. Mount the pump on the engine so the pump gear meshes with the camshaft gear. Install
and tighten the mounting bolts.
3. Replace the hoses, and secure them with clamps.

4. Check the gear backlash by installing bolts, or equivalent, in the impeller puller holes.
Measure the backlash with an indicator.
NOTE:
The gear backlash setting should be 0.0254-0.1524 mm (0.001-0.006 in.) when
measured.
5. When the specified backlash reading cannot be obtained, loosen the pump-attaching
bolts and pivot the pump at the dowel as required to obtain the proper lash adjustment.
Retighten the mounting bolts.
6. Install the pump cover.
7. Slide the hoses into position, and tighten the hose clamps.
4.2.5.1 Test Water Pump Impeller and Gear Slip Torque (6V and 8V)
See Figure 4-13. Test the water pump impeller and gear slip torque as follows:
1. Water Pump Assembly 2. Impeller
Figure 4-13 Checking Impeller and Gear Slip Torque with Tool J 33765
1. Scribe a line across the impeller, nut, and shaft.

2. Scribe a second line across the impeller, nut, and shaft.
3. Attach adaptor J 33765 to an accurately calibrated torque wrench.

4. Insert the adaptor dowel pins into the impeller puller holes, and apply a torque of 108 N·m
(80 lb·ft).
NOTE:
The crankshaft may move slightly until the next cylinder in the firing order comes up on
compression.
5. If slippage occurs, examine the marks scribed across the impeller and shaft.
[a] If the marks are no longer in alignment, the impeller has turned on the shaft. Remove
the pump from the engine, refer to section 4.2.2.
□ With pump removed, replace the shaft and impeller, refer to section 4.2.4.
[b] If the marks are still in alignment the gear has turned on the shaft. Remove the pump
from the engine, refer to section 4.2.2.
□ With pump removed, replace the shaft and gear. Refer to section 4.2.4.
[c] If the shaft and either the gear or impeller has not turned in the shaft, continue
inspection.
6. Bench test the completed pump assembly.
7. Loosen the clamps and remove the hose from the water outlet opening of the pump.
8. Insert a feeler gage into the water outlet opening of the pump. The minimum clearance
between the impeller and the pump body must be 0.381 mm (0.015 in.).
[a] If the clearance between the impeller and the pump body exceeds 0.381 mm (0.015
in.), replace pump assembly. Refer to section 4.2.5.
[b] If the clearance between the impeller and the pump body does not exceed 0.38 mm
(0.015 in.), continue inspection.
9. Use a new O-ring seal, and install the water pump cover and secure in place with the
retaining ring. Refer to section 4.2.5.

The centrifugal-type water pump is mounted on the front engine cover. The right front camshaft
gear drives the water pump. See Figure 4-14. The pump circulates engine coolant through the
cylinder block, cylinder heads, radiator or heat exchanger, and the oil cooler.
1. Water Pump Assembly 3. Crossover Tube

2. Thermostat Housing
Figure 4-14 Water Pump Mounting (12V and 16V Engines)
The pump consists of a bronze impeller secured to a stainless steel shaft with a locknut. A gear
is pressed on the opposite end of the shaft, and the shaft turns on two ball bearings which are
supported in a bearing and water and oil seal container. The container is secured to the pump
housing with nuts and washers on studs installed in the pump body. An oil seal is used in front of
the front bearing. A spring-loaded face type water seal is used in back of the impeller.
The pump ball bearings are lubricated with oil splash from the front gear train.

4.3.1 Repair or Replacement of Water Pump (12V and 16V Engines)

See Figure 4-15.
Figure 4-15 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Water Pump(12V and

16V Engines)

4.3.2 Removal of Water Pump (12V and 16V Engines)
Remove the water pump as follows:

2. If necessary, remove the radiator, fan shroud and fan, or heat exchanger.
3. Remove the pump cover.
4. Remove the nuts and lock washers from the rear bearing support cover-to-end-plate studs.
Remove the bolts and copper washers.
5. Grasp the pump firmly, and remove the two pump body-to-engine front cover bolts and
lock washers.
NOTICE:
While holding gear, use care to prevent damage to the gear teeth.
6. Detach the water pump.
4.3.3 Disassembly of Water Pump (12V and 16V Engines)
Disassemble the water pump as follows:

1. Remove the impeller deflector ring.
2. Turn the pump gear so the slot is over the bearing retaining ring ends.

EYE INJURY
3. Insert pliers J 4646 into the slot, and with the aid of a small screwdriver, remove the ring
from the groove. See Figure 4-16.
1. Water Pump Assembly 2. Water Pump Gear
Figure 4-16 Removing Retaining Ring using Tool J 4646
NOTICE:
While holding gear, use care to prevent damage the gear teeth.
4. Hold the gear securely, and remove the impeller locknut and washer.
5. Use puller J 24420-C to remove the impeller.
6. Remove the bearing retainer from the pump body.
7. While supporting the bearing and rubber seal retainer, tap the threaded end of the shaft
lightly with a soft hammer to separate the shaft and bearing assembly from the retainer.
8. Place the gear on an arbor press bed with the shaft extending downward, and place a short
piece of 15.88 mm (0.625 in.) diameter bar stock between the shaft and the press ram.

9. Press the shaft out of the gear. See Figure 4-17.
1. Bearing and Shaft Assembly 2. Water Pump Gear
10. Support the shaft assembly on the inner race of the large bearing with the threaded end
down.
11. Place flat stock between the press ram and the shaft. Press the pump shaft out of the
large bearing.
12. Invert the shaft, and support it on the inner race of the small bearing.
13. Place flat stock between the press ram and the shaft.
14. Push the oil seal out of the retainer.
NOTE:
New seals and impeller must be used each time the water and oil seals are removed or
at water pump overhaul.
4.3.3.1 Cleaning of Water Pump (12V and 16V Engines)
Clean the water pump as follows:

FIRE
vapors:
1. Wash all pump parts in clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
4.3.3.2 Inspection of Water Pump (12V and 16V Engines)

1. Inspect the water seal for cracks, wear, or damage.
[a] If cracked, worn, or damaged, replace the water seal. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
[b] If not cracked, worn, or damaged, continue inspection.
2. Inspect the water pump impeller for wear and erosion.
[a] If worn or eroded, replace the impeller. Refer to section 4.3.4.
NOTE:
New seals and impeller must be used each time the water and oil seals are removed or
at water pump overhaul.
[b] If not worn or eroded, continue inspection.

4.3.3.3 Inspection of Bearings (12V and 16V Engines)
Inspect the bearings as follows:

1. Visually inspect the bearings for corrosion, pitting, wear, and freedom of movement.
[a] If excessively corroded, pitted, worn, or lacks freedom of movement, replace the
NOTE:
[b] If not corroded, pitted, worn, or lacking freedom, proceed with inspection.
USED ENGINE OIL

2. Apply engine oil to the bearings. Hold the inner race, and slowly revolve the outer race
to check for roughness.
[a] If rough, replace the bearings. Refer to section 4.3.4.
NOTE:
[b] If not rough, they may be reused. Continue inspection, refer to section 4.3.5.1.
4.3.4 Assembly of Water Pump (12V and 16V Engines)
Assemble the water pump as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lubricate the bearing bores in the pump body and the bearing surfaces on the shaft with
clean engine oil.

NOTICE:
To avoid bearing damage, apply pressure to the inner race of the
bearings during assembly onto the shaft.
2. Use bearing and gear installer J 25257, and install the bearings on the shaft. See Figure
4-18.
1. Inner Bearing 3. Shaft

2. Outer Bearing
Figure 4-18 Pressing Bearing on Pump Shaft using J 25257
3. Support the pump body on an arbor press bed with the cover side down.
NOTICE:
To avoid bearing damage, apply pressure to the outer race of the
large bearing when installing the shaft and bearing assembly in
the retainer.
4. Apply pressure on the large bearing outer race to press the shaft and bearing assembly
in place.
5. Install the bearing retaining (snap) ring.

6. With gear installer J 25257 positioned on the impeller end of the shaft, place the gear
between the shaft and the ram of the press. See Figure 4-19.
1. Inner Bearing 4. Gear

2. Shaft 5. Pump Body
3. Outer Bearing
7. Press the gear on the shaft so it is flush with the end of the shaft.
NOTE:
Tool J 25257 will hold the shaft vertically to ensure the gear is pressed squarely on
the shaft.
Assemble seal as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Apply a film of clean engine oil to the sealing lip of the oil seal and the lip contact
surface of the shaft.

2. Slip the seal over the shaft and press into the pump body with the spring-loaded lip
toward the bearing.
3. Use a suitable sleeve, and tap the seal into place ensuring the oil seal is flush with the
water seal counterbore body.
4. Place the pump body on an arbor press bed.
5. To reduce possible coolant leakage, apply a light coat of Loctite 290 sealant on the outside
diameter of a new water seal.
6. Slip the unitized seal over the shaft and into the pump body with the wide flange side
facing the bearings.
NOTICE:
Seal installer J 38858 must be used to set the seal to its proper
installed height. Failure to do so may cause coolant leakage
leading to engine damage.
7. Using seal installer J 38858, press the seal into place.

Assemble impeller as follows:
1. Ensure the mating surfaces of the water seal and the impeller are free of dirt, metal
particles, and oil film.
2. Apply a small quantity of International Compound #2, or equivalent to the threads of
the pump shaft.
3. Place the impeller washer and new locknut on the shaft.
NOTICE:
Do not damage the gear teeth while holding the gear.
4. Hold the pump gear securely while drawing the impeller down on the tapered shaft with
the locknut. Tighten the locknut to 47-61 N·m (35-45 lb·ft) torque.
5. Install the hose on the water outlet opening, and secure it with clamps.
4.3.5 Installation of Water Pump (12V and 16V Engines)
Install the water pump as follows:

1. Place a new gasket on the pump body.
2. Position the pump, and slide the long studs into the holes in the front cover.
NOTE:
Ensure pump gear and camshaft gear teeth are correctly engaged.
3. Install the pump body-to-engine front cover bolts and lock washers.

4. Secure the nuts and lock washers on the water pump body studs that extend through the
front cover. Install the two bolts and lock washers from the back side of the end plates.
5. Replace the hoses, and secure them with clamps.
6. Check the gear backlash (clearance) between the water pump gear and the camshaft gear
by installing bolts, or equivalent, in the impeller puller holes. Measure the backlash with
an indicator.
NOTE:
The gear backlash setting should be 0.0254-0.1524 mm (0.001-0.006 in.) when
measured.
7. When the specified backlash reading cannot be obtained, loosen the pump attaching
bolts and pivot the pump at the dowel as required to obtain the proper lash adjustment.
Retighten the mounting bolts.
8. Install the water pump cover and a new gasket.
NOTE:
The word "TOP" is cast into the top of the cover.
9. Replace any other components removed during pump removal.


4.3.5.1 Test Water Pump Impeller and Gear Slip Torque(12V and 16V
Engines)
See Figure 4-20. Test the water pump impeller and gear slip torque as follows:
1. Water Pump Assembly 2. Impeller
Figure 4-20 Checking Impeller and Gear Slip Torque with Tool J 33765
1. Scribe a line across the impeller, nut, and shaft.

2. Scribe a second line across the impeller, nut, and shaft.
3. Attach adaptor J 33765 to an accurately calibrated torque wrench.
4. Insert the adaptor dowel pins into the impeller puller holes, and apply a torque of 108 N·m
(80 lb·ft).
NOTE:
The crankshaft may move slightly until the next cylinder in the firing order comes up on
compression.
5. If slippage occurs, examine the marks scribed across the impeller and shaft.
[a] If the marks are no longer in alignment, the impeller has turned on the shaft. Remove
the pump from the engine, refer to section 4.3.2.
□ With pump removed, replace the shaft and impeller, refer to section 4.3.1.
[b] If the marks are still in alignment the gear has turned on the shaft. Remove the pump
from the engine, refer to section 4.3.2.

□ With pump removed, replace the shaft and gear. Refer to section 4.3.1.
[c] If the shaft and either the gear or impeller has not turned in the shaft, continue
inspection.
6. Bench test the completed pump assembly.
7. Loosen the clamps and remove the hose from the water outlet opening of the pump.
8. Insert a feeler gage into the water outlet opening of the pump. The minimum clearance
between the impeller and the pump body must be 0.381 mm (0.015 in.).
[a] If the clearance between the impeller and the pump body exceeds 0.381 mm
(0.015 in.), replace pump assembly. Refer to section 4.3.5.
[b] If the clearance between the impeller and the pump body does not exceed 0.38 mm
(0.015 in.). continue inspection.
9. Use a new O-ring seal, and install the water pump cover and secure in place with the
retaining ring. Refer to section 4.3.5.

4.4 WATER MANIFOLD
4.4 WATER MANIFOLD
The 6 and 8V engines do not require external water manifolds. All 12V and 16V engines are
equipped with external water manifolds (one per cylinder head). See Figure 4-21.
1. Water Manifolds 3. Thermostat Housing

2. Clamp
Figure 4-21 Water Manifolds Location (12V and 16V Engines)
Coolant, leaving the cylinder head through an opening directly over each exhaust port, enters the
water manifold, which is attached to the cylinder head with two studs, lock washers, and nuts at
each water opening. A separate gasket is used at each attaching flange between the manifold and
cylinder head.

A four-leg manifold has replaced the former six-leg manifold. Only the current manifold will be
serviced. The two leg reduction has no detrimental effect upon engine cooling. However, when
replacing the old manifold with the current, two plates, gaskets, and four 3/8 in.-16 x 0.88 in. bolts
must be added to seal the unused openings in the cylinder head. Tighten these bolts to 27-34 N·m
4.4.1 Repair or Replacement of Water Manifold

See Figure 4-22.
Figure 4-22 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Water Manifold
4.4.2 Removal of Water Manifold
Remove the water manifold as follows:
HOT COOLANT
1. Drain the cooling system to the necessary level. Refer to section 13.12.3.

4.4 WATER MANIFOLD
2. Loosen the seal clamp at the front end of the water manifold. See Figure 4-23.
1. Water Manifold (Front) 6. Gasket

2. Pipe Plugs 7. Nut
3. Water Manifold (Rear) 8. Lock Washer
4. Clamps 9. Stud
5. Sleeve
Figure 4-23 Water Manifolds (12V and 16V Engines)
3. Slide the seal over the neck of the thermostat housing or the water manifold.
4. Remove the water manifold attaching nuts and lock washers, and lift the manifold off
the cylinder head.
5. Remove and discard the water manifold gaskets.

4.4.3 Installation of Water Manifold
Install the water manifold as follows:

1. Install new water manifold gaskets.
2. Attach the water manifold to the cylinder head with the lock washers and nuts. Tighten
the nuts to 27-34 N·m (20-25 lb·ft) torque.
3. Slide the seal onto the outlet end of the water manifold, and secure the seal with the clamp.
4. Fill the cooling system to the proper level. Refer to section 13.12.2.

4.5 THERMOSTAT
4.5 THERMOSTAT
A thermostat, located in a housing attached to the water outlet end of each cylinder head, controls
the engine coolant temperature. See Figure 4-24.
1. Thermostat 6. Washer
2. Seal 7. Gasket
3. Pipe Plug 8. Housing
4. Cover 9. Lock Washer
5. Bolt 10. Short Bolt
Figure 4-24 Typical Thermostat Housing
Blocking type thermostats are used when a standard cooling system is employed. See Figure 4-25
and see Figure 4-26. Full blocking type thermostats are used with the rapid warm-up cooling
system. Two thermostats are employed in 6V and 8V engines, and four thermostats are used in
the 12V and 16V engines.

1. Thermostat
Figure 4-25 Semi-Blocking or Partial Blocking (Shielded) Type Thermostat
1. Thermostat
Figure 4-26 Full Blocking (Weir) Type Thermostat

4.5 THERMOSTAT
A thermostat is an automatic valve which controls the coolant flow through a radiator or other
heat exchanger. The thermostat senses changes in engine coolant temperature and regulates
coolant flow to maintain efficient engine operating temperature.
Thermostats used in Detroit Diesel engines consist of a brass cup filled with a heat-expansive,
wax-like material. An elastomeric seal retains the wax compound within the cup. The thermostat
valve is attached to a piston.
The basic expansive wax principle remains the same for all thermostats. The valve is in the
closed position when the thermostat is cold and wax is solid. When engine coolant heats the
wax-filled brass cup, the wax-like material expands. As the coolant temperature in the engine
reaches the calibrated "start to open" thermostat setting, the force of the expanding wax on the
piston exceeds the closing force of the spring, and the valve opens. As the coolant temperature
continues to increase, the wax-like material continues to expand, opening the valve further until it
reaches its maximum design travel.
As the engine coolant temperature drops, wax cooling causes it to contract. This reduces the
pressure on the piston and allows the spring to draw the valve back toward its seat (closed
thermostat).
In order to perform effectively, a thermostat must meet the following requirements:
□ Start to open at a specified temperature.
□ Be fully open at a specified number of degrees above the "start to open" temperature.
□ Permit the passage of a specified coolant amount under a specified pressure when fully open.
□ Depending on cooling system requirements, allow little or no coolant to flow to the radiator
core when in the closed position.
Three basic types of thermostats are used in Detroit Diesel engines: full-blocking, non-blocking
and partial blocking. See Figure 4-27, see Figure 4-28, and see Figure 4-29.

Figure 4-27 Full Blocking (Weir) Type Thermostat
Figure 4-28 Non-Blocking (Choke or Poppet) Type Thermostat

4.5 THERMOSTAT
Figure 4-29 Semi-Blocking or Partial Blocking (Shielded) Type Thermostat
The full-blockingtype thermostat simultaneously controls the coolant flow to the radiator and
the bypass circuit. During the engine warm-up, all engine coolant flows through the bypass
circuit. As the thermostat opens, increasing amounts of coolant flow to the radiator, and the
bypass flow is correspondingly reduced. At approximately 9.4°-11.1°C (17°-20°F) above the
thermostat opening temperature, the bypass opening is fully blocked, and the total coolant flow is
directed into the radiator.
The non-blocking(choke or poppet) type thermostat controls the coolant flow only to the radiator,
while the continuously open bypass sends coolant directly back to the fresh water pump and
engine block. Coolant flow to the radiator discharges through the thermostat valve when coolant
temperature is above the thermostat opening temperature. This thermostat type is fully open at
9.4°-11.1°C (17°-20°F) above the thermostat opening temperature.
The partial blockingtype thermostat is a variation of the two previously mentioned thermostats.
When the thermostat opens to permit coolant flow to the radiator, it partially blocks the bypass.
Thermostats may be ventedor non-vented. A small hole in the valve or a notch in the valve at its
seat ventilates the thermostat. Non-vented thermostats should be installed only in rapid warm-up
type cooling systems. Vented thermostats are used primarily in conventional cooling systems.
The coolant amount leaking to the radiator when the thermostat is in the "closed" position has a
direct bearing on the engine's ability to warm up. For suitable engine warm-up, coolant leakage
past the thermostat valve must be at a minimum.
The rapid warm-up cooling system may use any one of the three thermostat styles, which
generally must be non-vented. This characteristic eliminates radiator shutters.

The bypass circuit provides a route for coolant circulation before the thermostat opens. Coolant
from the top of the engine flows to the water pump without passing through the radiator or other
heat exchanger. This bypass coolant flow permits the engine to warm up to operating temperature
while preventing "hot spots" which might damage the engine during this operation period.
At coolant temperatures below 71°-82°C (160°-180°F), depending upon the thermostat used, the
valves remain closed and block the coolant flow to the radiator. During this period, all coolant in
the standard system is circulated through the engine and directed back to the suction side of the
water pump via the bypass tube. In the rapid warm-up system, a separate external de-aeration
line bypasses enough coolant to vent the system to the radiator top tank and back to the water
pump without going through the radiator cores. As the coolant temperature rises above 71°-82°C
(160°-180°F), the thermostat valves start to open, restricting the bypass system, and permit a
portion of the coolant to circulate through the radiator. When the coolant temperature reaches
approximately 82°-92°C (185°-197°F), the thermostat valves are fully open, the bypass system is
completely blocked off, and all coolant is directed through the radiator.
NOTE:
Engines using shutters and equipped with 82°-92°C (180°-197°F) thermostats may
have an effect on the shutter operation.
A defective thermostat which remains closed, or only partially open, will restrict the coolant flow
and overheat the engine. A thermostat which is stuck in a full open position restricts the engine
from reaching its normal operating temperature. The incomplete fuel combustion due to cold
engine operation will result in excessive carbon deposits on the pistons, rings, and valves.
Properly operating thermostats are essential for efficient engine operation. If the engine operating
temperature deviates from the normal range of 71°-92°C (160°-197°F), the thermostats should
be removed and checked.
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury while performing the test or procedure, wear
adequate eye, face protection, and heat-resistant gloves.
NOTE:
There are areas where approved fuel (less than 0.5% sulfur) is not commercially
available or economically feasible to obtain. It is important to keep these engine's cooling
system temperature higher than normal to prevent sulfur trioxide gas condensation,
which combines with combustion water to form sulfuric acid. Install a 82°-88°C
(180°-190°F) temperature thermostat, and modify the cooling system to provide rapid
warm-up and maintain coolant temperature at a minimum of 80°C (174°F).

4.5 THERMOSTAT
4.5.1 Repair or Replacement of Thermostat
Figure 4-30 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Thermostat

4.5.2 Removal of Thermostat
Remove the thermostat as follows:

2. Loosen the hose clamps, and remove the bypass tube.
3. Loosen the hose between the water pump and right bank thermostat housing cover.
4. Remove the thermostat housing cover bolts and lock washers.
5. Remove the thermostat housing covers.
6. Remove the thermostats.
4.5.2.1 Test Thermostat
Perform the following procedure to check the operation of the thermostat:

1. Immerse thermostat in a container of hot water. See Figure 4-31.
Figure 4-31 Method of Checking Thermostat Operation
2. Place a thermometer in the container.
NOTE:
Do not allow thermometer to touch the bottom of the container.

4.5 THERMOSTAT
3. Agitate the water to maintain an even temperature throughout the container.
NOTE:
As the water is heated, the thermostat should begin to open.
NOTE:
The thermostat should be fully open at approximately 85°-92°C (185°-197°F)
NOTE:
Allow at least 10 minutes for thermostat to react.
4. If thermostat fails to open, replace. Refer to section 4.5.3.

5. If thermostat is functioning properly, refer to section 4.5.2.2 and perform inspection
procedure.
4.5.2.2 Inspection of Thermostat
Inspect the thermostat as follows:

1. Inspect the thermostats for damage and wear.
[a] If damaged or worn, replace the thermostat. Refer to section 4.5.3.
[b] If not damaged or worn, continue inspection.
2. Inspect the thermostat housing cover bypass cast seal ring for wear or damage.
[a] If worn or damaged, replace the thermostat housing cover bypass cast seal ring.
3. Inspect the thermostat for proper alignment and wear.
[a] If worn or out of alignment, replace thermostat. Refer to section 4.5.3.
[b] If not worn or out of alignment, proceed with inspection.
4. Inspect the thermostat cover for proper operation.
[a] Replace the cover if the thermostat will not properly block off the bypass cavity
during full-open thermostat operation. Refer to section 4.5.3.
[b] If the thermostat blocks off the bypass cavity during full-open thermostat operation,
reuse the thermostat.
4.5.3 Installation of Thermostat
Install the thermostat as follows:

1. Install new seals in the thermostat housing cover with installer J 8550 and driver handle
J 7079-2.
NOTE:
Position the seal so that the lip of the seal faces up (away from the thermostat) when
the cover is installed on the thermostat housing. The seal installing tool assures that
the seal is positioned the correct distance from the bottom face of the cover and parallel
with the cover face.
2. Place a new gasket on the thermostat housing.

3. Set the thermostats in the thermostat housing.
4. Attach the covers to the thermostat housings with bolts and lock washers. Tighten the
3/8 in.-16 bolts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft) torque.
5. Slide the hose in place between the water pump and the right bank thermostat housing
cover. Tighten the clamps.
6. Install the bypass (cross-over) tube, and tighten the hose clamps.
7. Close the drain cocks in the cylinder block.
9. Start the engine, and check for leaks.

4.6 RADIATOR
4.6 RADIATOR
On some engines, the radiator and fan lower the coolant temperature circulating through the
engine. The radiator is mounted so that the fan will draw or push air through it, maintaining the
coolant temperature for efficient engine operation.
Refer to section 5.3 for the recommended type of coolant. Use recommended coolant for
prolonged radiator life.
To increase the radiator cooling efficiency, a metal shroud is placed around the fan. The fan
shroud must be airtight against the radiator to prevent hot air recirculation. Hot air, which is
permitted to pass around the sides or bottom of the radiator and repeatedly drawn through the
radiator, will cause engine overheating.
Another overheating cause is fan drive belt slippage. Incorrect belt tension, worn belts, worn
fan belt pulley grooves, or fan belts of unequal length when two or more belts are used,
cause fan drive belt slippage. The belt tension and condition should be checked periodically.
A leaking radiator, a radiator that has a dirty, obstructed core, a leaking cooling system, or an
inoperative thermostat will cause the engine to overheat. The radiator must be cleaned, the leaks
eliminated, and defective thermostats replaced immediately to prevent serious damage.
NOTICE:
Winterfronts (cardboard, canvas, etc.) are not recommended
with any DDC engine installation. They cause excessive
engine coolant, oil, and charge air temperatures. This can
lead to turbocharger surge, poor fuel economy, power loss, and
reduced engine life. Winterfronts can put abnormal stress on fan
and fan drive components, creating the potential for premature
malfunction and/or damage.
The external cleanliness of the radiator should be checked if the engine overheats and no other
causes are apparent.
Certain vehicle engines incorporate a cross-flow radiator rather than the conventional down-flow
radiator.
A cross-flow radiator has a core of horizontally positioned tubes, and coolant flow moves across
rather than down the radiator.
Two reasons for using the cross-flow design radiator are as follows:
□ The reduced radiator height permits a lower hood line design, providing better road
visibility.
□ The area in front of the engine crankshaft and below the radiator is open for mounting
a power takeoff unit, if desired.

One unique cross-flow radiator component is a Y-shaped device called an aspirator which is
mounted externally on the filler cap side of the radiator and serves to rid the cooling system of air.
See Figure 4-32. The aspirator directs coolant under pressure through a venturi. In the venturi,
entrapped air inside the radiator is picked up and moved to the radiator supply chamber, where it
is vented. The coolant line providing the drive flow originates at the engine thermostat housing.
This hookup provides coolant flow to the aspirator, regardless of whether the thermostat is open
or closed. As the coolant flow passes through the aspirator, its action pulls coolant and any air that
is present from the top of the radiator core outlet chamber into an internal "U" tube, which vents
near the filler cap inside the radiator supply chamber and completes the de-aeration process. This
"U" tube ensures the entire cooling circuit, other than the supply chamber, remains completely
full when the engine is stopped. It keeps the coolant from seeking a common level throughout the
system, eliminating an aerated system at the next engine start-up.
1. Low Pressure Chamber
Figure 4-32 Aspirator for Cross-Flow Design Radiator

4.6 RADIATOR
The cross-flow system requires a bypass restriction to provide sufficient pressure in the system for
adequate engine de-aeration and aspirator performance. See Figure 4-33.
1. Oil Cooler 10. Filler

2. Water Pump 11. Aspirator
3. Orifice in Water Pump Bypass 12. Sight Glass
4. Thermostat Housing 13. Engine De-aeration
5. Bypass 14. U-Tube
6. Engine Coolant Out 15. Supply Chamber
7. De-aeration Jump Line 16. Drain Cock
8. Aspirator Supply 17. Supply to Engine
9. Radiator De-aeration 18. Engine Coolant In
Figure 4-33 Cross-Flow Design Radiator
Properly installed hose connections are required for adequate cross-flow radiator efficiency.

The cross-flow cooling system should always be drained at the radiator drain cock. This will
ensure that both the radiator and internal "U" tube is empty. If the "U" tube is not emptied,
refilling the system will be difficult.
Due to the cross-flow radiator design, air may be trapped inside the radiator during the fill
process, resulting in a false coolant level reading. After filling the cooling system, the engine
should be run approximately ten minutes at 1200-1400 RPM to vent any entrapped air. Additional
coolant, approximately 2.8 to 3.8 liters (3 to 4 quarts), should be added to bring the coolant to
the proper level.
For cross-flow radiator system efficiency, leaks must not exists between the radiator core and
the supply tank. If an internal leak develops between the radiator core and the supply tank, the
cooling system will become aerated at low speed and following engine shut down. The radiator
should be tested periodically for possible internal leaks.
4.6.1 Repair or Replacement of Radiator

See Figure 4-34.

4.6 RADIATOR
Figure 4-34 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Radiator
4.6.2 Removal of Radiator
Remove the radiator as follows:

HOT COOLANT

4.6 RADIATOR
1. Remove the radiator filler cap, and open the drain cock. See Figure 4-35.
1. Data Plate 8. Gasket

2. Lock Washer 9. Plate
3. Bolt 10. Support Bracket
4. Shroud 11. Nut
5. Seal 12. Washer
6. Radiator Cap 13. Support Clip
7. Radiator 14. Drain Cock
Figure 4-35 Typical Radiator Assembly

3. Open the drain cock on the oil cooler and the engine block.
4. Remove the bolts, lock washers, and nuts that attach the fan guards to the fan shroud.

5. Loosen the hose clamps at the radiator outlet hose, and remove the hose.
FALLING COMPONENT
NOTICE:
To avoid damage to the radiator, a spreader bar should be used
with a sling and adequate chain hoist when lifting the radiator.
The lifting device should be adjusted so the lifting hooks are
vertical to prevent bending the radiator lift brackets. To ensure
proper weight distribution, all radiator lifter brackets provided
must be used in lifting the radiator. Never lift a radiator by any
other means. Part damage may result if radiator breaks away
from the lifting device and falls.
6. Use a chain hoist and a suitable lifting device (through the filler neck or otherwise), and
draw the hoisting chain taut to steady the radiator.
7. Remove the bolts, lock washers, plain washers, nuts, and bevel washers, if used, which
attach the radiator shell to the engine base.
NOTICE:
Since the shroud is very close to the fan blade tips, exercise care
whenever removing the radiator to prevent part damage.
8. Lift the radiator enough to clear the engine base, and move it away from the engine.
9. Remove the bolts securing the fan shroud and the radiator core.
10. Remove the fan shroud and the radiator core.
4.6.2.1 Cleaning of Radiator
Clean the radiator as follows:
NOTE:
The radiator should be cleaned whenever foreign deposits hinder air flow or heat transfer
to the air. In a hot, dusty area, periodic radiator cleaning will prevent an efficiency
decrease and prolong engine life.
1. Remove the fan shroud and grill to facilitate radiator core cleaning.

4.6 RADIATOR
EYE INJURY
2. Use an air hose with a suitable nozzle to remove loose dust from the radiator core.
PERSONAL INJURY
FIRE
3. If oil is present, use a solvent, such as mineral spirits, to loosen the dirt.
4. Apply the solvent to the radiator core with a spray gun.
EYE INJURY
NOTICE:
To avoid damage to the radiator fins, do not use high air or water
pressure.
5. Use air to remove the remaining dirt.

6. Repeat as many times as necessary.

EYE INJURY
7. Rinse the radiator with clean water, and dry it with air.
8. Another radiator cleaning method is steam cleaning. If the foreign deposits are hardened,
apply solvents.
NOTE:
Scale deposits inside the radiator result from using hard, high-mineral water in the
cooling system. Heat on the minerals in the water causes scale formation, or a hard
coating, on metal surfaces within the radiator, reducing heat transfer. Some hard water
produces a silt-like deposit which restricts the water flow. Flush this out at least twice a
year - more often if necessary.
Flush the radiator as follows:
NOTICE:
For extremely hard, stubborn coatings, such as lime scale, it
may be necessary to use a stronger solution. A stronger solution
will corrode the thin radiator metals, reducing its operating life.
Completely flush and rinse.
1. Use a flushing compound such as sal-ammoniac, at the ratio of 1/4 pound per each gallon
radiator capacity.
2. Add this solution to the coolant water while the engine is running.
3. Operate the engine for at least fifteen minutes.
4. Drain and flush the system with clean water.
5. Run a neutralizer through the system.
NOTE:
Other flushing compounds are commercially available and should be procured from a
reliable source. Most compounds attack metals and should not remain in the engine for
more than a few minutes. A neutralizer should be used in the cooling system immediately
after a de-scaling solvent is used.
6. Completely drain the entire system, and fill it with coolant. Refer to section 13.12.
NOTE:
When draining or filling, the cooling system must be vented.

4.6 RADIATOR
7. Examine the radiator and engine for coolant leaks.

8. Install the fan shroud and grill, if removed.
4.6.2.2 Inspection of Radiator
Inspect the radiator as follows:

1. Examine the radiator for cracks or other damage.
[a] If cracked or damaged, replace the radiator. Refer to section 4.6.3.
[b] If not cracked or damaged, continue inspection.
2. Inspect the core fins for straightness and even spacing.
[a] If bent or unevenly spaced, replace the radiator. Refer to section 4.6.3.
[b] If not bent or unevenly spaced, proceed with inspection.
3. Inspect the core tubes for cleanliness inside and outside.
[a] If necessary, clean the core tubes.
[b] If clean, continue inspection.
4. Inspect the core tubes for leaks.
[a] If core tubes are leaking, the radiator must be replaced.
[b] If core tubes are not leaking, continue inspection.
NOTE:
If repainting the radiator core becomes necessary, DDC recommends using a thin coat of
dull black radiator paint or another high-quality flat black paint. Ordinary oil paints have
an undesirable glossy finish and do not transmit heat as well.
5. Inspect all radiator hoses and clamps for cracks, deterioration, and damage.
[a] If cracked, deteriorated, or damaged, replace the hoses and clamps. Refer to section
4.6.3.
[b] If not cracked, deteriorated, or damaged, reuse the parts.
4.6.2.3 Test Radiator for Leaks (Cross-Flow Design)
Test the cross-flow radiator for leaks as follows:

1. Remove the radiator cap, and run the engine for approximately ten minutes at high idle to
completely de-aerate the cooling system.
2. With the engine running, add additional coolant to the supply chamber to bring the level
to the bottom of the filler neck.
3. Stop the engine, and drain 3.8 liters (4 quarts) of coolant from the radiator.
4. Stop the engine, and observe the coolant level.

NOTICE:
If a leak is detected, it should be repaired immediately. Extended
operation with aerated coolant can cause engine failure.
[a] If the coolant rises substantially in the supply tank, an internal leak is indicated.
[b] If the coolant level remains constant or falls, the system is satisfactory.
5. After completing the test, refill the cooling system to the proper level.
4.6.3 Installation of Radiator
Install the radiator as follows:

1. Attach the fan shroud and the radiator core. Secure with bolts.
FALLING COMPONENT
NOTICE:
Ensure radiator is secure before releasing the lifting sling. Part
damage may result if the radiator breaks away from the engine
and falls.
2. Use a chain hoist and suitable lifting device to lift the radiator over the engine.
3. Lower the radiator onto the engine.
4. Attach the radiator to the shell with bolts, lock washers, plain washers, nuts, and bevel
washers, if used.
5. Attach the radiator outlet hose. Secure with clamps.
6. Attach the radiator inlet hose. Secure with clamps.
7. Attach the fan guard to the fan shroud with bolts, lock washers, and nuts.
8. Check for clearance between the fan blade tips and radiator shroud after the radiator is
in place.

4.6 RADIATOR
NOTICE:
There must be sufficient clearance between the fan blade tips
and radiator, or damage to the fan and shroud will result when
the engine is started. Use shims between the radiator and base,
if necessary, to obtain the proper clearance.
9. Close the drain cocks, and fill the cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.2.

4.7 COOLANT PRESSURE CONTROL CAP
The radiator or expansion tank has a pressure control cap with a normally closed valve. The cap,
with a number 7 stamped on its top, is designed to permit approximately 48 kPa (7 lbs) pressure
in the system before the valve opens, whereas the number 9 cap needs 62 kPa (9 lbs) before the
valve opens. This pressure raises the cooling liquid boiling point and permits higher engine
operating temperatures without coolant loss from boiling. To prevent the collapse of hoses and
other parts which are not internally supported, a second valve in the cap opens under vacuum
when the system cools. See Figure 4-36.
1. Vacuum Valve 3. Seat

2. Pressure Valve
Figure 4-36 Coolant Pressure Cap Coolant Flow Process

4.7 COOLANT PRESSURE CONTROL CAP
4.7.1 Repair or Replacement of Coolant Pressure Control Cap

See Figure 4-37.
Figure 4-37 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Coolant Pressure

Control Cap
4.7.2 Removal of Coolant Pressure Control Cap
Remove the coolant pressure control cap as follows:

HOT COOLANT
1. Wipe the outside of the pressure control cap.

2. Push down on pressure control cap while turning counterclockwise.
4.7.2.1 Inspection of Coolant Pressure Control Cap
Inspect the coolant pressure control cap as follows:

1. Inspect both valves periodically for proper opening and closing pressures to ensure against
possible damage to the cooling system from either excessive pressure or vacuum.
[a] If the pressure valve does not open between 43.1 kPa (6.25 lb/in.2) and 51.7 kPa
(7.5 lb/in.2) or the vacuum valve does not open at 4.3 kPa (0.625 lb/in.2) (differential
pressure), replace the pressure control cap. Refer to section 4.7.2.1.
[b] If the pressure valve opens as specified, reuse the pressure control cap.
4.7.3 Installation of Coolant Pressure Control Cap
Install the coolant pressure control cap as follows:

1. Press down on pressure control cap while turning clockwise.

4.8 ENGINE COOLING FAN
The engine cooling fan is belt driven from the crankshaft pulley. See Figure 4-38.
1. Pulley Hub 3. Crankshaft Pulley

2. Fan
Figure 4-38 Typical Fan Mounting

The three-groove pulley hub, used on 6V, 8V and certain 16V engines, turns on a double-row ball
bearing at the front and a single-row (shielded) ball bearing at the rear of the hub. See Figure 4-39.
1. Fan 9. Bearing
2. Long Bolt (3) 10. Pulley Hub
3. Hub Cap 11. Adjusting Bolt
4. Spacer 12. Support Bracket
5. Cotter Pin 13. Lock Washer (3)
6. Retaining Nut 14. Plain Washer
7. Washer 15. Short Bolt
8. Retaining Ring 16. Adjusting Bracket Assembly
Figure 4-39 Typical Fan, Three-Groove Pulley and Adjusting Bracket (Former)

A new three-groove pulley hub for all engines, including the 12V engines, turns on a front ball
bearing and a rear roller bearing. It includes a hub cap (with relief valve), a dust cup, and
a grease fitting. See Figure 4-40.
1. Shaft and Bracket 7. Hub Cap

2. Rear Roller Bearing 8. Front Ball Bearing
3. Grease Fitting 9. Hub Pulley
4. Snap Ring 10. Dust Cap
5. Washer 11. Oil Seal
6. Lock Bolt
Figure 4-40 Three-Groove Pulley Hub (Current)

On 6V and 8V compact front end engines, the pulley hub turns on tapered roller bearings.
See Figure 4-41.
1. Long Bolt (3) 9. Grease Retainer

2. Lock Washer (4) 10. Outer Bearing
3. Washer 11. Retainer
4. Support Bracket 12. Hub Cap
5. Adjusting Bracket Assembly 13. Shims
6. Short Bolt (2) 14. Inner Bearing
7. Pulley Hub 15. Oil Seal
8. Bearing Spacer
Figure 4-41 Fan Pulley, Hub and Adjusting Bracket Details for Compact Front
Engines

The poly-vee groove pulley hub used on some 16V engines turns on two single-row tapered roller
bearings. See Figure 4-42.
1. Pulley Hub 6. Adjusting Bolt

2. Spacer 7. Adjusting Bracket Assembly
3. Bearing (2) 8. Shims
4. Hub Cap 9. Seal
5. Locknut
Figure 4-42 Typical 16V Engine Poly-Vee Groove Pulley Hub and Adjusting
Bracket
Spacers help set the proper clearance between the fan blades and the front groove of the
crankshaft pulley.
The bearings and the cavity between the bearings are packed with grease at assembly.
Refer to section 13.33 for the maintenance schedule.

Adjust the fan belts periodically. Refer to section 13.18.

A thermo-modulated suction fan assembly has been provided on some engines. See Figure 4-43.
1. Thermo-Modulated Fan Assembly
Figure 4-43 Typical Thermo-Modulated Fan Assembly
This fan assembly regulates the fan speed and maintains an efficient engine coolant temperature
regardless of the engine load variations or outside air temperature.

The entire fan drive assembly is a compact integral unit which requires no external piping or
controls. See Figure 4-44.
1. Drive and Driven Plates 4. Drive Cup

2. Input Shaft and Drive Flange Assembly 5. Temperature Control Assembly
3. Fan Drive Housing Assembly
Figure 4-44 Cutaway View of Thermo-Modulated Fan Drive Assembly
The shearing of a silicon fluid film between the input and output plates in a sealed multiplate
fluid-filled clutch housing, transmits torque from the input shaft to the fan.
The thermostatic control element, which is an integral part of the fan drive, reacts to changes in
engine temperature and varies the fluid film thickness between the plates. This changes the fan
speed. The vehicle manufacturer selects the proper element setting to maintain optimum cooling.
No further adjustment should be necessary.
The thermo-modulated fan is mounted and driven in the same manner as the conventional fan.

The manufacturer prelubricates the fan drive assembly. The drive fluid level and the roller bearing
should be checked periodically. Refer to section 13.33.
4.8.1 Repair or Replacement of Engine Cooling Fan

See Figure 4-45.

Figure 4-45 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Engine Cooling Fan
4.8.2 Removal of Engine Cooling Fan
Remove the engine cooling fan as follows:

NOTICE:
The fan blades must rotate in a vertical plane parallel with and a
sufficient distance from the radiator core. Bent fan blades reduce
the cooling system efficiency, throw the fan out of balance, and
may damage the radiator core. Before removing the fan, check
the blade alignment. Do not pull on the fan blades.
1. Remove the attaching bolts, lock washers, and nuts.
NOTE:
If insufficient clearance exists between the fan and the radiator, remove the fan, hub, and
adjusting bracket as an assembly.
2. Remove the fan and spacer, if used.

3. Loosen the fan hub adjusting bracket bolts, and remove the drive belts.
4. Withdraw the bolts and washers, and remove the hub and bracket assembly from the
engine.
4.8.3 Disassembly of Cooling Fan, Three-Groove Pulley Hub, and

Bracket (Former Design)
Disassemble the cooling fan as follows:

1. Remove the fan-to-hub mounting bolts, nuts, and lock washers. Detach the fan and
spacer. See Figure 4-46.
1. Fan 9. Bearing
2. Long Bolt (3) 10. Pulley Hub
3. Hub Cap 11. Adjusting Bolt
4. Spacer 12. Support Bracket
5. Cotter Pin 13. Lock Washer (3)
6. Retaining Nut 14. Plain Washer
7. Washer 15. Short Bolt
8. Retaining Ring 16. Adjusting Bracket Assembly
Figure 4-46 Typical Fan, Three-Groove Pulley and Adjusting Bracket(Former

Design)
2. Remove and discard the hub cap.

3. Remove the cotter pin and nut.

4. If removing the bearings, remove the retaining ring.
5. Support the hub, front face up, on wood blocks high enough to allow bracket removal.
6. Tap the fan shaft with a plastic hammer to free the fan shaft and bracket assembly from
the bearings in the hub.
See Figure 4-47, and remove the ball bearings from the pulley hub (current design) as follows:

6. Lock Bolt
Figure 4-47 Three-Groove Pulley Hub (Current Design)

1. Support the pulley hub, rear face up, on two wood blocks spaced far enough apart to
permit bearing removal from the hub.
2. Tap alternately around the rear face of the bearing outer race with a small brass rod and
hammer to remove the front bearing from the hub.
3. Reverse the pulley hub on the wood blocks, and remove the rear bearing from the hub.
4.8.4 Disassembly of Cooling Fan, Hub, and Bracket (Compact Front

End Engines)
Disassemble the cooling fan as follows:

1. Remove the fan-to-hub mounting bolts, nuts, and lock washers. Detach the fan and
spacer. See Figure 4-48.

8. Bearing Spacer
Engines

3. Remove the pulley retaining bolt and retainer.

4. Support the pulley hub, front face up, on wood blocks high enough to allow adjusting
bracket assembly removal.
5. Tap the shaft with a plastic hammer to free the adjusting bracket assembly from the
bearings in the pulley hub.
Remove the bearings and oil seal as follows:
1. Remove the inner race from the front (outer) bearing.
2. Remove the shims and bearing spacer.
hammer to remove the front bearing outer race from the bearing.
4. Reverse the pulley hub, and drive the oil seal from the hub. Discard the oil seal.
hammer to remove the rear (inner) bearing.
6. Remove the grease retainer from the pulley hub.

4.8.5 Disassembly of Cooling Fan, Poly-Vee Groove Pulley Hub, and

Bracket (16V Engine)
See Figure 4-49, and disassemble the fan on a 16V engine as follows:

4. Hub Cap 9. Seal
5. Locknut
Bracket
1. Remove the fan to pulley hub mounting bolts, nuts, and lock washers. Detach the fan
and spacer.


3. Pry the locknut part staked into the shaft, and remove the nut.
4. Support the pulley hub, front face up, on wood blocks high enough to allow adjusting
bracket removal.
5. Tap the shaft with a plastic hammer to free the bracket assembly from the pulley hub
bearings.
6. Support the pulley hub, front face up, on two wood blocks spaced far enough apart to
remove the seal and bearing from the hub.
7. Remove and discard the felt oil seal in the rear of the hub.
hammer to remove the inner roller bearing from the hub.
9. Remove the spacer and shims.
10. Reverse the pulley hub on the wood blocks and remove the front roller bearing from the
hub.
4.8.5.1 Cleaning of Cooling Fan
Clean the cooling fan as follows:
NOTE:
Shielded bearings must not be washed. Dirt may wash in and the cleaning fluid could
not be entirely removed from the bearing.
FIRE
vapors:
1. Clean the fan and related parts with clean fuel oil.

EYE INJURY
4.8.5.2 Inspection of Cooling Fan
Inspect the cooling fan as follows:

1. Visually inspect the bearings for corrosion or pitting.
[a] If corroded or pitted, replace the bearings. Refer to section 4.8.6.
2. Hold the inner race or cone so it does not turn, and revolve the outer race or cup slowly
by hand.
[a] If rough spots are found, replace the bearings. Refer to section 4.8.6.
[b] If no rough spots are found, continue inspection.
3. Inspect the fan blades for cracks and bending.
[a] If the blades are bent or cracked, replace the fan. Refer to section 4.8.10.
[b] If not bent or cracked, continue inspection.
4. Remove any rust or rough spots in the fan pulley and crankshaft pulley grooves. Check
for damage and wear.
[a] If the grooves are damaged or severely worn, replace the pulleys. Refer to section
4.8.6.
[b] If not damaged or severely worn, continue inspection.
5. Visually inspect and measure the fan hub shaft front and rear journal (industrial engines).
NOTE:
The front journal diameter of a new shaft is 19.97964–19.99234 mm (0.7866–0.7871 in.)
and the rear journal is 44.9707–44.99102 mm (1.7705–1.7713 in.).
[a] If the journals are worn excessively, replace the fan shaft. Refer to section 4.8.6.
6. Inspect for cracks in the adjusting and support bracket castings.

[a] If cracked, replace the adjusting and support bracket casting. Refer to section 4.8.6.
NOTE:
When replacement of either the fan shaft or adjusting bracket is necessary, a new fan
shaft and bracket assembly must be used.
[b] If not cracked, continue inspection.

7. Inspect the current fan shaft rear bearing inner race for any measurable wear.
[a] Replace the inner race if the outer diameter is less than 43.93438-66.88582 mm
(1.7297 in. or 2.6333 in.) (Heavy Duty). Refer to section 4.8.6.
NOTE:
The inner and outer races are only serviced as a rear roller bearing assembly.
NOTE:
When installing the rear bearing inner race, press it on the shaft, and position it
48.768–49.276 mm (1.92–1.94 in.) or 58.674–59.182 mm (2.31–2.33 in.) (Heavy Duty)
from the end of the shaft.
4.8.6 Assembly of Cooling Fan, Three-Groove Hub, and Bracket(Former

Design)
Assemble the cooling fan with the former three-groove hub and bracket as follows:

1. Install the rear bearing in the pulley hub. See Figure 4-50.
1. Drive and Driven Plates 4. Drive Cup

2. Input Shaft and Drive Flange Assembly 5. Temperature Control Assembly
3. Fan Drive Housing Assembly
Figure 4-50 Cutaway View of Thermo-Modulated Fan Drive Assembly
NOTE:
When rebuilding a three-groove pulley fan hub assembly for any reason, add the new
hardened washer under the retaining nut.

2. To prevent the inner bearing race from spinning on the shaft, apply a small quantity of
Loctite No. RC 601, or equivalent, to the circumference of the shaft rear bearing surface.
NOTE:
The bearing and shaft surfaces must be clean and dry.
NOTE:
Ensure no Loctite gets into the bearing.
3. Pack the pulley hub cavity 75% (minimum) full of grease.
NOTE:
Use Mobilgrease® HP or an equivalent Lithium base multi-purpose grease.
4. Place the adjusting bracket on wood blocks on an arbor press bed.

5. Press the pulley hub onto the fan shaft.
6. Install the front ball bearing in the pulley hub.
7. Install the retaining ring and nut. Tighten the nut to 81-122 N·m (60-90 lb·ft) torque, and
secure it with a cotter pin.
NOTE:
If the holes in the nut and shaft do not line up for the cotter pin, do not back off on the
nut. Advance to the next position. Low nut torque will permit the front bearing to turn on
the shaft.
8. Pack the front cavity 75% (minimum) full of grease, and install a new hub cap.
4.8.7 Assembly of Cooling Fan, Three-Groove Hub, and Bracket(Current

Design)
See Figure 4-51, and assemble the cooling fan with the current three groove hub and bracket
as follows:


6. Lock Bolt
Figure 4-51 Three Groove Pulley Hub (Current)
NOTE:
Do not over grease.
1. Apply Mobil HP grease or an equivalent Lithium base multipurpose grease to the front
ball bearing and the rear bearing rollers before installing them in the pulley hub.
2. Install the front ball bearing against the shoulder counterbore in the pulley hub.
3. Install the snap ring in the pulley hub.

4. Install the rear roller bearing outer ring and roller assembly against the shoulder in the
pulley hub counterbore.
5. Install a new oil seal with rubber side flush with the hub outer edge.
6. Install the dust cap, if used, over the oil seal in the hub.
7. Place the shaft and bracket on wood blocks set on an arbor press bed.
8. Press the rear bearing inner ring or race onto the fan shaft.
9. Pack the hub cavity 75% (minimum) full with Mobil HP grease.
10. Install the partially assembled fan hub over the rear bearing inner ring on the shaft and
against the shoulder on the pulley hub shaft.
11. Secure the hub with the washer and 1/2 in.-20 lock bolt. Tighten the bolt to 113-126 N·m
(83-93 lb·ft) torque while rotating the pulley hub.
12. Fill a new fan hub cap 75% (minimum) full of grease, and install it in the end of the
pulley hub.
4.8.8 Assembly of Cooling Fan, Hub, and Bracket (Compact Front End
Engine)
Assemble the hub and bracket on a compact front end as follows:

1. Apply Mobil HP or an equivalent Lithium base multi-purpose grease to both bearing

rollers before installing them in the pulley hub. See Figure 4-52.

8. Bearing Spacer
Engines

2. Tap alternately around the face of the bearing outer race with a small brass rod and
hammer to install the rear inner bearing assembly, with the protruding face of the inner
race facing outward from the hub.
3. Install a new oil seal with the rubber side flush with the hub outer edge.
4. Place the adjusting bracket assembly on wood blocks setting on an arbor press bed.
5. Press the pulley hub on the fan shaft, and install the bearing spacer.
6. Pack the cavity between the bearings 20-30% full of grease, and install the grease retainer.
NOTE:
The grease retainer is not required when a grease fitting is installed in the pulley hub.
7. Place the shims against the bearing spacer. Install the front outer bearing assembly with
the inner and outer race, protruding face of the inner race facing outward from the hub.
8. Tap alternately around the face of the bearing outer race with a small brass rod and
hammer to install the front outer bearing assembly.
9. Secure the hub with the retainer and bolt. Tighten the 1/2 in.-20 bolt to 113-126 N·m
(83-93 lb·ft) torque while rotating the pulley.
10. Rotate the assembly, and check the end play with the spindle horizontal. The end play
must be within 0.0254–0.1524 mm (0.001–0.006 in.).
11. If necessary, remove the bolt, washer, and front outer bearing, and adjust the shim number
and thickness to obtain the required end play. Shims are available in 0.381 mm, 0.508
mm, and 0.635 mm (0.015 in., 0.020 in. and 0.025 in.) thickness.
12. Assemble the fan hub, and check the end play.
13. Fill a new fan hub cap 75% (minimum) full of grease, and install it in the end of the fan
hub (pulley).

4.8.9 Assembly of Cooling Fan, Poly-Vee Groove Pulley Hub, and

Bracket (16V Engine)
See Figure 4-53, and assemble the poly-vee groove pulley hub and bracket on 16V engines
as follows:

4. Hub Cap 9. Seal
5. Locknut
Bracket

1. Before assembling the roller bearings into the pulley hub, pressure lubricate the bearings,
and pack the hub cavity 25% full of grease.
NOTE:
Use Mobil HP or an equivalent Lithium base multi-purpose grease.
2. Install the rear roller bearing in the pulley hub.

3. Press a new oil seal in 2.54 mm (0.100 in.) from the end of the pulley hub. See Figure 4-53.
4. Place the adjusting bracket on wood blocks on an arbor press bed.
5. Press the pulley hub on the fan shaft.
6. Install the spacer and necessary shims on the fan shaft.
7. Install the front roller bearing in the pulley hub.
8. Apply International Compound No. 2 to the locknut threads, and tighten it with socket
J 22556-2 and tool J 6534-8 (from set J 22556) to 339-352 N·m (250-260 lb·ft) torque
while rotating the pulley hub.
NOTE:
When tool J 6534-8 is used to tighten the 16V poly-vee groove pulley hub locknut, use
tool set J 22556 and reverse tool J 6534-8 in socket J 22556-2 (chamfered holes in J
6534-8 facing the socket).
9. Check the end play. It must be 0.0254–0.1524 mm (0.001–0.006 in.).

10. If necessary, remove the locknut and front bearing, and add or remove shims as required.
11. After the specified end play is obtained, remove the locknut and front bearing, and fill the
pulley hub cavity 20-30% full of grease.
12. Install the front bearing and locknut.
13. Tighten the locknut to 339-352 N·m (250-260 lb·ft) torque, and stake the locknut to the
fan shaft.
14. Fill a new hub cap 75% (minimum) full of grease, and install it in the pulley hub.
4.8.10 Installation of Engine Cooling Fan
Install the engine cooling fan as follows:

1. Secure the fan and spacer to the pulley hub with the six bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
Tighten the nuts to 20-26 N·m (15-19 lb·ft) torque.
2. Place the fan belts on the pulley.
NOTE:
Before a poly-vee belt is installed (16V engines), the crankshaft pulley and fan pulley
must be aligned. Refer to section 1.15.3.

3. Position the fan, hub, and adjusting bracket against the support bracket, and install the
bolts finger tight in the support.
NOTE:
The new bolts differ from the former in that their effective lengths in inches are indicated
in 0.25 in. high raised numbers on the bolt heads. This makes them easier to identify
than the former bolts which had to be measured.
4. Adjust the bracket to provide the proper tension on the fan belts. Refer to section 1.15.3.
Tighten the bracket and bracket adjusting bolts.

4.9 HEAT EXCHANGER
4.9 HEAT EXCHANGER
The heat exchanger core consists of a series of cells with a header at one end and a circular water
outlet at the opposite end. The core is mounted inside the expansion tank with the inlet end bolted
to the tank and the outlet end sealed inside a retainer.

A gasket between the expansion tank and the core flange, another gasket between the core flange
and the cover at the inlet side, and seals surrounding the circular outlet at the opposite end prevent
the coolant from mixing with the raw cooling water on its horizontal course between the element
cells. See Figure 4-54.
1. End Cover (2) 9. Cap

2. Gasket (3) 10. Expansion Tank
3. Core 11. Elbow
4. Pipe Plug (2) 12. Expansion Tank Tube
5. Bolt (2) 13. Clamp
6. Washer (2) 14. O-ring Seals
7. Gland Seal 15. Electrode
8. Retainer
Figure 4-54 Typical Heat Exchanger Assembly

4.9 HEAT EXCHANGER
The hot coolant leaving the thermostat housing passes through the expansion tank and through
the cooling core cells. After leaving the heat exchanger, the engine coolant is picked up by the
fresh water pump and circulated through the cylinder block and cylinder heads. The raw water
is forced horizontally between the core cells and serves to lower the coolant temperature as
it passes through the cells.
A coolant level sensor is installed in the heat exchanger tank of DDEC III and DDEC IV Marine
Engines. This signals a low engine coolant level in the tank.
To protect the heat exchanger core from electrolytic raw water, a zinc electrode is placed in
the heat exchanger inlet elbow and the raw water pump inlet elbow. It extends into the raw
water passage.
The expansion tank helps fill the engine cooling system. It serves as a space for coolant expansion
as its temperature rises. An overflow pipe, near the top of the tank, provides a vent to the
atmosphere.
NOTE:
When installing a new filler neck in the expansion tank, drill a 3/16 in. hole in the side of
the new filler neck for the overflow pipe.
Soft water plus required corrosion inhibitor or antifreeze should be used as the engine coolant to
prevent lime deposits in the heat exchanger core as well as in the engine. Refer to section 5.3.
Enough coolant should be maintained in the engine to fill the cylinder block and head and to
partially fill the water tank. Allow air space above the coolant in the tank for the volume increase
as the coolant temperature rises.
Whenever the heat exchanger fails to cool the engine properly and the raw water pump is
circulating a normal amount of cooling water around the heat exchanger core, the core should
be examined for foreign deposits.
Heat Exchanger Tank Mounting System in 16V-92 Marine Engines
A tank mounting system is used on all 16V-92 marine engines having the tube bundle design
heat exchanger tank assembly. This is done to minimize the transmission of normal mechanical
vibration to the heat exchanger tank during engine operation.
When properly installed, the components of this system will reduce stress on the joint between the
heat exchanger and the saddle feet. This system will also reduce much of the vibration transferred
to the tank from the engine.
4.9.1 Repair or Replacement of Heat Exchanger

See Figure 4-55.

Figure 4-55 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Heat Exchanger
4.9.2 Removal of Heat Exchanger (6V and 8V Engines)
Remove the heat exchanger as follows:

4.9 HEAT EXCHANGER
HOT COOLANT
1. Drain the engine coolant and the raw water system. Refer to section 13.12.7 and
refer to section 13.54.
2. Remove the four bolts and lock washers that hold the raw water inlet tube to the heat
exchanger. Withdraw the inlet tube and gasket.
3. Remove the ten bolts and lock washers that hold the heat exchanger inlet cover to the
expansion tank.
4. Remove the four bolts and lock washers that hold the outlet tube to the cover. Remove
the outlet tube and gasket.
5. Remove the ten bolts and lock washers that hold the outlet cover and seal retainer to
the expansion tank.
6. Withdraw the outlet cover and seal retainer with the seals and seal gland from the
expansion tank. Remove the gasket.
7. Withdraw the heat exchanger core and gasket from the expansion tank.
4.9.3 Removal of Heat Exchanger (8VTI and 16V Engines)
Remove the heat exchanger as follows:
HOT COOLANT
1. Drain the fresh and raw water systems. Refer to section 13.54.
2. Remove the bolts that hold the inlet cover and the heat exchanger core to the tank.
Remove the cover and the gasket.
3. Remove the bolts that hold the outer cover to the seal retainer. Remove the cover and
gasket.

4. Remove the bolts that hold the seal retainer to the tank. Remove the seal retainer with the
seals and the seal gland away from the tank.
5. Withdraw the heat exchanger core and gasket from the tank.
4.9.3.1 Cleaning of Heat Exchanger
Clean the heat exchanger core as follows:
PERSONAL INJURY
1. Immerse the heat exchanger core in a scale solvent consisting of one-half pound oxalic acid
to each two and one-half gallons of one-third muriatic acid and two-thirds water solution.
2. Remove the core when foaming and bubbling stops. This usually takes thirty to sixty
seconds.
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury while performing the test or procedure, wear
adequate eye, face protection, and heat-resistant gloves.
3. Flush the core thoroughly with clean hot water under pressure.
NOTE:
To prevent foreign substances from drying and hardening, clean the heat exchanger core
as soon as possible after removing it from service.
4.9.3.2 Inspection of Heat Exchanger
Inspect the heat exchanger as follows:

1. Inspect the heat exchanger core for foreign deposits.
[a] If foreign deposits are evident, the heat exchanger core must be thoroughly cleaned.
[b] If no foreign deposits have accumulated, continue inspection.
2. Remove the zinc electrodes from the inlet side of the raw water pump and the heat
exchanger, and Inspect the electrode for dirt wear.

4.9 HEAT EXCHANGER
[a] Clean the electrodes with a wire brush or, if worn excessively, replace with new
electrodes.
[b] If not worn or dirty, continue inspection.
3. To determine the condition of a used electrode, strike it sharply against a hard surface. A
weakened electrode will break.
[a] If it breaks, replace the electrode.
[b] If it does not break, reuse the electrode.
4.9.4 Installation of Heat Exchanger (6V and 8V Engines)
Install the heat exchanger as follows:

1. Install the heat exchanger core and gasket on the expansion tank.
2. Install the outlet cover and seal retainer with the seal and seal gland.
3. Install the ten bolts and lock washers on the outlet cover and seal retainer. Tighten the
bolts.
4. Install the inlet cover on the expansion tank.
5. Install the ten bolts and lock washers in the inlet cover and expansion tank. Tighten
the bolts.
6. Install the inlet tube and gasket.
7. Install the four bolts and lock washers that hold the raw water inlet tube on the heat
exchanger. Tighten the bolts.
9. Check for leaks.
4.9.5 Installation of Heat Exchanger (8VTI and 16V Engines)
Install the heat exchanger as follows:

1. Install the heat exchanger core and gasket in the tank.
2. Install the seal retainer with the seals and seal gland in the tank. Secure with bolts.
3. Install the outer cover and gasket. Secure with bolts.
4. Install the cover and gasket that hold the heat exchanger core on the tank. Secure with
bolts.

NOTE:
To minimize electrolytic action of the raw water, brass pipe plugs are used in the raw
water system components wherever pipe plugs are required. Replace any steel plugs
that may be found on early units with brass plugs.
NOTE:
If the coolant level sensor in the heat exchanger tank of a DDEC marine engine has
been removed, inspect for cracking or thread distortion before installing. Cracked or
damaged sensors must not be reused.
NOTICE:
Failure to tighten the coolant level sensor properly may result in
sensor damage (stripped threads or cracking). Sensor distortion
or damage may cause logging of a false high or low voltage code.
NOTE:
Fresh coolant level sensors have a special sealant applied to threads, and no additional
sealant is required for initial installation. When reinstalling a sensor, however, Loctite
567 pipe sealant with Teflon or equivalent must be applied to the threads to ensure
proper sealing.
6. Install and tighten the sensor to 5-8 N·m (4-6 lb·ft) torque.
7. Check for leaks.

4.10 RAW WATER PUMP
4.10 RAW WATER PUMP
A positive displacement pump circulates raw water for lowering the temperature of the engine
coolant through the heat exchanger. The pump is attached to an adaptor which is bolted to the
flywheel housing and is driven through a coupling attached to the left-hand camshaft gear.
See Figure 4-56.
1. Raw Water Pump Assembly 3. Outlet Elbow

2. Outlet Tube 4. Inlet Elbow
Figure 4-56 Raw Water Pump Mounting
A prelubricated, shielded double-row ball bearing supports the pump drive shaft. An oil seal
prevents oil leakage from the bearing compartment and a rotary type seal prevents water leaks
along the shaft.
The pumped water lubricates the impeller splined to the end of the drive shaft.

A wear plate in the impeller compartment prevents pump housing wear and can be reversed if
plate wear becomes excessive. A slot machined in the outer periphery of the wear plate registers
with a dowel in the pump housing, preventing it from rotating with the shaft.
The pump can be operated clockwise or counterclockwise. Raw water is drawn into the pump
through an inlet opening and discharged through the outlet opening, both openings are located at
the top of the pump housing.
Two current high-volume Jabsco raw water pumps (8923363 and 8927296) are used on Detroit
Diesel series 71 and 92 marine engines. The two pumps differ in output (100 gpm vs 125 gpm,
respectively) and have a slightly different body configuration, but are otherwise similar in design.
Major features of the current pumps include:
□ Heavy-duty cast bronze body and cast iron bearing housing
□ Neoprene compound impeller
□ Stainless steel drive shaft
□ Wear-resistant polyurethane cam/liner
□ Reversible ceramic wear plate on the 100 gpm pump
Raw Water Pump Standardization
To reduce the number of raw water pumps requiring service, three new pump assemblies have
replaced ten existing pumps.
The new assemblies are identical to the former, except that the new ones do not include the
adaptor flange, adaptor/pump mounting bolts, or washers. When former pumps are replaced, the
original adaptor flange, mounting bolts, and washers must be reused. If damaged, these parts
must be ordered separately.
NOTE:
Former and new raw water pump assemblies are completely interchangeable, and only
the new assemblies will be serviced. Components of the former pumps will continue
to be serviced.

4.10 RAW WATER PUMP
4.10.1 Repair or Replacement of Raw Water Pump

See Figure 4-57.
Figure 4-57 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Raw Water Pump

4.10.2 Removal of Raw Water Pump
Remove the raw water pump as follows:

1. Drain the raw water system. Refer to section 13.54.
2. Loosen the hose clamps at the outlet elbow and intermediate tube, and slide the hose
along the tube.
3. Loosen the hose clamps at the inlet elbow and the inlet tube, and slide the hose along
the tube.
4. Remove the bolts and lock washers holding the inlet and outlet elbows to the pump.
5. Lift the elbows from the pump. Remove the gaskets.
6. Remove the adaptor-to-flywheel housing bolts and lock washers.
7. Tap the edge of the adaptor with a soft hammer to loosen the pump from the flywheel
housing.
8. Withdraw the pump straight out from the flywheel housing, disengaging the drive gear
from the coupling.
NOTE:
Cover the pump opening in the flywheel housing with a clean cloth to prevent foreign
matter from entering.
4.10.3 Disassembly of 100 GPM and 125 GPM Pump
See Figure 4-58 and see Figure 4-59, and disassemble the 100 gpm and 125 gpm pumps as follows:

4.10 RAW WATER PUMP
1. Adaptor 12. Seal Spline

2. Bearing 13. End Cover
3. Seal 14. Gasket
4. Bearing Housing 15. Retaining Ring
5. Lock Washer 16. Mechanical Seal
6. Hex Head. Screw 17. Shaft
7. Wear Plate 18. Gear
8. Dowel Pin 19. Flat Washer
9. Cam Liner 20. Hex Nut
10. O-ring 21. Body
11. Impeller 22. Woodruff Key
Figure 4-58 100 GPM Raw Water Pump

1. Adaptor 13. Hex Bolt

2. Bearing 14. Flat Washer
3. Seal 15. End Cover
6. Hex Head Screw 18. Shaft
8. Dowel Pin 20. Hex Nut
9. Cam Liner 21. Gasket
10. O-ring 22. Body

4.10 RAW WATER PUMP

12. Seal Spline
1. Remove end cover bolts or screws and end cover. On 100 gpm pump only, remove gasket
and outer wear plate.
2. Grasp impeller hub with pliers, and remove from impeller bore. If impeller O-ring remains
on shaft, remove it.
3. Remove cam/liner from pump body.
4. Remove inner wear plate.
5. Remove seal retaining ring, taking care not to scratch shaft.
6. Remove carbon portion of mechanical seal with tensioning spring attached.
7. Remove bolts securing adaptors to pump inlet and outlet ports. With pump body held
securely, remove four 5/16 in. screws and lock washers holding pump body to bearing
housing.
8. Remove pump body from bearing housing and shaft subassembly. Remove any remaining
gasket material from port adaptors.
9. Remove slinger O-ring from shaft.
10. Press out remaining portions of mechanical seal (boot and ceramic seat) from the pump
body drive end.
11. Hold housing securely, and remove the six 3/8 in. screws and lock washers in the housing
flange.
12. Remove the bearing housing and the shaft subassembly from the adaptor.
13. Hold the shaft with a wrench on impeller end shaft flats to keep it from rotating. Remove
the drive gear retaining nut, lock washers, and retaining flat washer.
14. Remove the drive gear from the shaft. A punch and small mallet may be used to gently
tap the underside of the drive gear teeth to loosen the gear from the shaft. Remove
woodruff key.
15. Remove the retaining ring securing the bearing in the bearing housing.
16. Press against impeller end of shaft to remove the shaft and bearing subassembly from
the bearing housing.
17. Support the bearing inner race, and press the shaft out of the bearing. Repeat with second
bearing.
18. Push the oil seal out of the bearing housing from the pump end of the bearing housing.
4.10.3.1 Cleaning of Raw Water Pump

NOTICE:
The shielded bearing must not be washed. Dirt may be washed
in, and the cleaning fluid may not be entirely removed from the
bearing. Dirt in the shielded bearing will cause bearing damage.
FIRE
vapors:
1. Clean all parts thoroughly in clean fuel oil.

2. Wipe the bearing clean on the outside.
4.10.3.2 Inspection of Raw Water Pump
Inspect the raw water pump as follows:

1. Inspect the bearing. Hold the inner race, and revolve the outer race slowly to detect
possible wear or rough spots
[a] If worn or does not roll freely, replace the bearing. Refer to section 4.10.4.
[b] If not worn and rolls freely, continue inspection.
2. Inspect the seal assembly parts for cuts, cracks, or damage.
[a] If cut, cracked, or otherwise damaged, replace the parts. Refer to section 4.10.4.
[b] If not cut, cracked, or damaged, proceed with inspection.
3. Inspect the oil seal contact surfaces for scratches or grooves.

4.10 RAW WATER PUMP
FIRE
vapors:
[a] Smooth scratched surface with crocus cloth wet with fuel oil.
[b] If excessively scratched or grooved, replace the pump. Refer to section 4.10.5.
[c] If not scratched or grooved, continue inspection.
4. Inspect the impeller for a good bond between the neoprene and the metal.
[a] If bond is damaged, replace. Refer to section 4.10.5.
[b] If the bond is not damaged, continue inspection.
5. Inspect the impeller blades for a permanent set.
[a] If the impeller blades have a permanent set, install a new impeller. Refer to section
4.10.4.
[b] If the blades do not have a permanent set, continue inspection.
6. Inspect the wear plate for burrs and wear.
[a] If burred, remove with a crocus cloth.
[b] If excessively burred or worn, reverse the plate when the pump is assembled.
[c] If not burred or worn, reuse the parts.
4.10.4 Assembly of 100 GPM and 125 GPM Raw Water Pump
See Figure 4-60, and see Figure 4-61. Assemble the 100 gpm and 125 gpm raw water pump
as follows:

1. Adaptor 12. Seal Spline

2. Bearing 13. End Cover
3. Seal 14. Gasket
6. Hex Head. Screw 17. Shaft
8. Dowel Pin 19. Flat Washer
9. Cam Liner 20. Hex Nut
10. O-ring 21. Body

4.10 RAW WATER PUMP
1. Adaptor 13. Hex Bolt

2. Bearing (2) 14. Flat Washer (2)
3. Seal 15. End Cover
4. Bearing Housing 16. Retaining Ring (2)
5. Lock Washer (3) 17. Mechanical Seal
6. Hex Head Screw 18. Shaft
8. Dowel Pin 20. Hex Nut
9. Cam Liner 21. Gasket
10. O-ring 22. Body


12. Seal Spline
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lightly coat the outside diameter of a new oil seal with clean engine oil.
2. Press the oil seal into the seal bore from the drive end of the bearing housing.
NOTE:
The seal lip must point to the housing drive end.
3. With pressure applied to the bearing inner race, press the bearings onto the shaft.
4. Apply pressure to the outer race of the outer bearings, and install the bearing and shaft
subassembly into the bearing housing.
5. Install the bearing retaining ring in the bearing housing, ensuring it is securely seated
in the ring groove.
6. Insert the woodruff key into the groove on the shaft end.
7. Gently tap the drive gear with a small plastic-face mallet to install it into the shaft.
8. Install the flat washer, lock washer, and retaining nut onto the shaft. Hold the shaft with a
wrench on the impeller end shaft flats to prevent it from rotating, and tighten retaining nut
to 33-41 N·m (24-30 lb·ft) torque.
9. Install new slinger O-ring on shaft near bearing housing.
10. Install mechanical seal components.
NOTE:
Do not allow seal components to become soiled during assembly.
11. Lubricate ceramic seal seat booth with water only, and press into pump body seal bore.
12. Install ceramic seal seat.
NOTE:
Exposed ceramic surface should face toward impeller bore.
13. Slide pump body over shaft, taking care not to dislodge seal seat as body is moved toward
(and aligned with) bearing housing.

4.10 RAW WATER PUMP
14. Attach pump body to bearing housing with four 5/16 in. screws and lock washers. Tighten
to 19-22 N·m (14-16 lb·ft) torque.
15. Install carbon portion of mechanical seal with tensioning spring and spring washer over
the shaft, and position it in the seal bore with the carbon face against the ceramic seal seat.
16. Slide seal retaining ring over shaft against seal thrust ring, and position in retaining ring
groove.
17. Install inner wear plate in pump body. Align the wear plate notch with the pin in the body.
18. Lubricate bore of body with a premium water pump bearing grease.
19. Align hole in top of cam/liner with pump body pin, and push cam/liner into body.
NOTE:
The 100 gpm pump cam/liner should recess about 1/8 in. from the end cover surface
to permit wear plate installation.
20. Liberally coat inside of cam/liner with a premium water pump bearing grease.
21. Insert impeller O-ring in the groove in the impeller recess.
22. With O-ring end of impeller facing pump housing, rotate impeller in the direction of
pump rotation to bend vanes under the cam, and push it into the bore until the impeller
insert flats align with shaft flats.
23. Push the impeller into the impeller bore.
NOTE:
The impeller end should be even with cam/liner.
24. Install rubber spline plug into the impeller end.

25. On the 100 gpm pump only, align the wear plate notch with the hole in the top of cam/liner.
Install the outer wear plate, and place end cover gasket over the end cover pin.
26. Install the end cover. Align the pin with the hole in the cam/liner.
27. Install six 1/4 in. fillister head screws (100 gpm pump) or four 1/4 in. bolts (125 gpm
pump) in the end plate cover. Tighten to 8.13-8.81 N·m (72-78 lb·in) torque.
NOTE:
Do not over torque.
28. Install a new adaptor flange gasket, and secure pump assembly to adaptor with six 3/8 in.
screws, flat washers, and lock washers. Tighten to 18-20 N·m (13-15 lb·ft) torque.
29. Using new gaskets, attach the raw water pump inlet and outlet adaptors.

4.10.5 Installation of Raw Water Pump
Install the raw water pump as follows:
NOTE:
The end cover is marked to show the outlet port for RH rotation and the outlet port
for LH rotation. Follow these markings when installing the raw water pump to avoid
any difficulty regarding direction of flow.
NOTE:
When installing the inlet elbow or the outlet elbow, be sure to use two flat washers on
the bolt being installed in the blind hole in pump housing.
1. Remove the cover in the flywheel housing pump opening.

2. Install the pump into the flywheel housing, and attach the drive gear to the coupling.
3. Install the adaptor to flywheel housing bolts and lock washers.
4. Install new gaskets and place the elbows on the pump.
5. Secure the inlet and outlet elbows to the pump with bolts and lock washers.
6. Slide the hose onto the inlet elbow and the inlet tube, and tighten the hose clamps.
7. Slide the hose onto the outlet elbow and the outlet tube, and tighten the hose clamps.
8. Fill the raw water system. Refer to section 13.54.

4.11 COOLANT FILTER AND CONDITIONER
The engine cooling system filter and conditioner is a compact by-pass type unit with a replaceable
canister type element, a spin-on type element, or a clamp-on type element. See Figure 4-62,
see Figure 4-63, and see Figure 4-64.
1. Gasket 3. Drain Plug

2. Element
Figure 4-62 Coolant Filter and Conditioner (Canister Type)

1. Filter 2. Filter Mount
Figure 4-63 Coolant Filter and Conditioner (Spin-on Type)

1. Spring 5. Grommet
2. Gasket 6. Shell
3. Clamp 7. Element
4. Clover
Figure 4-64 Coolant Filter and Conditioner (Clamp-on Type)
A correctly installed and properly maintained coolant filter and conditioner provide a cleaner
engine cooling system, greater heat dissipation, increased engine efficiency through improved
heat conductivity, and engine part longevity.
A closely packed element in the filter, through which the coolant passes, provides mechanical
filtration. The element removes any impurities, such as sand and rust particles, suspended in the
cooling system. Removing these impurities will contribute to longer water pump life and proper
thermostat operation.
The filter conditions the coolant, softens the water to minimize scale deposits, maintains an
acid-free condition, and acts as a rust preventive.
Corrosion inhibitors are placed in the element and dissolve into the coolant, forming a protective
rustproof film on all cooling system metal surfaces. Refer to section 5.3. Other element
components clean the cooling passages, whereas the corrosion inhibitors protect them.
NOTE:
The coolant filter may be grounded at the user's option.

The current coolant filter includes a non-chromate type element. This element can be used in
place of either of the former filter elements (permanent type antifreeze or plain water type) and
thus provides year around cooling system protection. The current and the former filter elements
are completely interchangeable in the former filter. Refer to section 5.3.2.7.
Coolant filter/inhibitor precharge elements are available as optional equipment. These elements
provide the engine with the proper charge of required inhibitors and water softeners at initial
cooling system fill. Refer to section 13.15 for maintenance.
4.11.1 Repair or Replacement of Coolant Filter and Conditioner
Refer to section 13.14 for coolant filter and conditioner service procedures.
4.11.2 Removal of Coolant Filter and Conditioner
Remove the coolant filter and conditioner as follows:
NOTICE:
Use care to avoid puncturing hoses with the vise grip pliers.
NOTE:
If shut-off valves are not provided, vise grip pliers without serrations can be used to
clamp each hose closed during the filter change.
1. Remove the drain plug in the bottom of the filter body, and let drain.
2. Remove the filter cover-to-filter body bolts.
3. Remove and discard the element.
4. Remove and discard the corrosion resistor plates.Remove the spin-on type element
as follows:
5. Remove the retaining clamp.
6. Remove and discard the element.
4.11.2.1 Cleaning of Coolant Filter and Conditioner
Clean the coolant filter and conditioner as follows:

1. Remove the sludge and sediment from the element and parts.
2. Wash the filter body.

EYE INJURY
3. Dry it thoroughly with compressed air.

4. On spin-on type filters, clean the gasket seal on the filter cover.
4.11.3 Installation of Coolant Filter and Conditioner
Install the canister type element as follows:
NOTE:
If a coolant filter and conditioner is to be installed on an engine which has been in service,
drain and flush the cooling system prior to filter installation. Refer to section 13.12.3.
1. Replace the drain plug in the bottom of the filter.

2. Insert the new element.
3. Use a new filter cover gasket and install the filter cover. Tighten the bolts evenly.Install
the spin-on type element as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

4. Apply clean engine oil to the filter element gasket, and install the new element.
5. Turn 1/2 to 3/4 after gasket contact to assures a positive leak proof seal.Install the
clamp-on type element as follows:
6. Insert the new element.
7. Secure the filter body with the clamp.Finish installation on all type filters as follows:
8. Open the shut-off valves or remove the vise grip plier clamps to open the inlet and outlet
lines.
9. Operate the engine and check for leaks.

10. The top of the filter and the outlet line should feel warm to the touch with the rise in
NOTE:
If not, disconnect the filter outlet line at the end opposite the filter connection to bleed the
air from the system, and reconnect the line.
NOTE:
Use care to minimize coolant loss.
HOT COOLANT
11. Verify coolant level.


Description Page
SHOP NOTES ................................................................................................... 4-123

CONTAMINATED LUBRICATING SYSTEM .................................................. 4-124
AUXILIARY COOLER KIT .............................................................................. 4-125
Installation of Auxiliary Cooler Kit ............................................................... 4-126
PRIMING THE RAW WATER PUMP .............................................................. 4-129
RAW WATER PUMP IMPELLERS ................................................................. 4-129
THERMOSTAT FUNCTION TESTING ........................................................... 4-130
Materials ..................................................................................................... 4-131
Making the Test Fixture ............................................................................... 4-133
Thermostat Testing Procedure .................................................................... 4-134
CONDUCTING COOLING TESTS ................................................................. 4-136
FIND COOLANT LEAKS WITH FLUORESCENT DYE, BLACK LIGHT ........ 4-137
FAN HUB GREASE FITTING ......................................................................... 4-137
DRAINING JABSCO RAW WATER PUMP .................................................... 4-139
RAW WATER PUMP IMPELLERS ................................................................. 4-139
LEFT-BANK MANIFOLD WATER SUPPLY (MARINE ENGINES 12V) .......... 4-140
NEW CONSTANT-TORQUE HOSE CLAMPS ON FORWARD PLAN(MARINE
ENGINES) ............................................................................................... 4-140
HEAT EXCHANGER EXPANSION TANK SIGHT GLASS REPLACEMENT . 4-141
Replacement of Threaded Type Sight Glass .............................................. 4-141
Replacement of Flange Type Sight Glass .................................................. 4-142
Replacement of Flange Type Sight Glass with Adaptor ............................. 4-143
SPECIFICATIONS .................................................................................. 4-144
STUD TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ............................................................... 4-144
SHOP NOTES
Shop notes for the cooling system are as follows:

CONTAMINATED LUBRICATING SYSTEM
When the engine lubricating system has been contaminated by an ethylene glycol antifreeze
solution or other soluble material, the following cleaning procedure, using DPM (Diproplyene
Glycol Methyl Ether) or its equivalent, is recommended.
If the engine is still in running condition, proceed as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Drain contaminated lubricating oil. Refer to section 13.5.4 and refer to section 13.5.5.
2. Remove and discard the oil filter element.
EYE INJURY
3. Clean and dry the filter shell with compressed air.

4. Install a new element.
5. Mix two parts of DPM, or its equivalent, with one part SAE 10W engine oil.
6. Fill the engine crankcase to the proper operating level with the mixture. Refer to section
13.5.1.
7. Start and run the engine at a fast idle (1,000-1,200 RPM) for 30 minutes to one hour.
NOTE:
Check the oil pressure frequently.
8. After the specified time, stop the engine and immediately drain the crankcase and the
filter. Refer to section 13.5.2. and refer to section 13.7.2.
NOTE:
Sufficient time must be allowed to drain all of the fluid.
9. Refill the crankcase (refer to section 13.5.1.) with SAE 10W engine oil after the drain
plug is replaced, and run the engine at the same fast idle speed for 10-15 minutes. Then,
stop the engine and drain the oil thoroughly.
10. Stop the engine and drain the oil thoroughly. Refer to section 5.2.1.

11. Remove and discard the filter element.
EYE INJURY
12. Clean and dry the filter shell with compressed air, and install a new element.
13. Install the drain plug and fill the crankcase to the proper level with the oil recommended
for normal engine operation. Refer to section 13.5.1 and refer to section 5.2.1.
AUXILIARY COOLER KIT
The auxiliary cooler replaces the water manifold in the outboard side of the engine. It is attached
to a bracket bolted to the head, similar to the way the boost cooler is mounted on the opposite
side. The system operates as follows.
Raw water from the outlet side of the heat exchanger flows into the cooler, lowering the exhaust
coolant and marine gear oil temperatures as it passes through. Raw water leaving the cooler then
flows into the exhaust elbow and is discharged overboard.
Exhaust system coolant (fresh water) leaving the crossover pipe flows into the cooler at the top.
Turbocharger coolant leaving the turbine housing enters the cooler at the bottom. The coolant
from these two sources mix together, is cooled, and then flows to the thermostat housing.
Marine gear oil flows from the gear pump to the cooler, is cooled and returns to the gear oil filter.
Auxiliary Cooler Kits for High Output 6V-92TA Marine Engines Rated at 550 BHP
When operated under certain conditions, the 6V-92 TA high output marine engine rated at
550 BHP may show signs of deficient cooling. Symptoms can occur in very warm seas and
when engines are operated with raw water intake restriction and exhaust back pressure near the
maximum limits. To eliminate the potential for overheating engines under these conditions, an
auxiliary cooler kit has been released. These kits contain a tandem tube and shell type heat
exchanger, all required hardware and hoses. The heat exchanger cools exhaust system coolant
returning from the exhaust manifolds and turbochargers and incorporates a marine gear oil cooler.
The gear cooler must be used when the auxiliary cooler is installed.
Auxiliary cooler kits should not be used unless the minimum water-to-water cooling index is :
□ 35.0°C (95°F) with fresh water used as coolant.

□ 40.6°C (105°F) with a 50/50 glycol/water mix used as coolant.
NOTE:
Cooling index = coolant-out temperature minus raw water-in temperature.
NOTE:
Cooling index, raw water pump restriction, inlet restriction, and back pressure data are
required to confirm that inherent problems exist in the cooling system. Checking the
engine to ensure that all systems operate efficiently and making necessary repairs may
eliminate the need for auxiliary coolers. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
for installation of auxiliary kit.
Installation of Auxiliary Cooler Kit
Perform the following procedure for installing the auxiliary cooler kit:
1. Remove the elbow that attaches the water manifold to the turbocharger water return hose,
and install it on the bottom inlet of the auxiliary cooler. See Figure 4-65 and see Figure
4-66.

1. Cooler Mounting Bracket 3. Cooler

2. Tube Heat Exchanger-to-Cooler; Raw Water 4. Elbow (90 Degree)
Figure 4-65 Port Engine

1. Elbow 4. Cooler Mounting Bracket
2. Cooler 5. Thermostat Housing
3. Hose (2) 6. Tube
Figure 4-66 Starboard Engine
2. Install the water return elbow into the thermostat housings before installing the coolers.
3. Remove the water manifold studs in the head, and install cover plates to the head with
bolts of the appropriate size.
NOTE:
The cooler support bracket will be attached with these bolts, also.

4. Attach the auxiliary cooler loosely to the bracket, then attach the bracket to the cylinder
head. Index the cooler and secure it to the bracket by tightening the outboard nut of the
U-bolt clamp.
NOTE:
Ensure there is about 3.18 mm (0.125 in.) clearance between the inboard nut of the
U-bolt clamp and the exhaust manifold.
5. Remove the old lines from the heat exchanger-mounted gear cooler, and plug the cooler
with pipe plugs.
PRIMING THE RAW WATER PUMP
Prime the pump as follow:
NOTICE:
Always prime the raw water pump before starting the engine.
Since water acts as a lubricant for the impeller, failure to
prime the pump (or at least wet the impeller vanes to induce
a self-priming suction) can result in severe impeller damage
when the engine is started. Insufficient raw water flow into the
heat exchanger caused by a damaged impeller can lead to
overheating and subsequent engine damage.
1. Remove the pipe plug from the water inlet elbow.

2. Pour in at least a pint of water.
3. Replace the plug.
NOTE:
The raw water pump should not be run dry for longer than normally required for the
pump to prime itself.
RAW WATER PUMP IMPELLERS
The Jabsco raw water pump is equipped with synthetic rubber impellers. Since synthetic rubber
begins to lose its elasticity at low temperatures, impellers made of natural rubber may be installed
when it is necessary to pump raw water that has a temperature below 4°C (40°F). However, the
standard impellers must be used when the pump operates in warmer water.
New service impellers of natural rubber are identified by a stripe of green paint.

THERMOSTAT FUNCTION TESTING
Thermostat print specifications normally call for three specific operating conditions: start-to-open
temperature, full-open temperature, and full-open dimension. The most important of these is
the start-to-open temperature. This is the temperature at which the motor mechanism (wax
compound) experiences a change from a solid to a liquid, expanding and opening the thermostat
to allow coolant flow. At full-open temperature, the liquid wax is fully expanded and the full-open
dimension is reached, ensuring proper coolant flow to the radiator. The start-to-open temperature
is normally stamped or printed on the thermostat.
A relationship exists between the thermostat start-to-open temperature and operating stroke
(full-open travel). See Figure 4-67.
Figure 4-67 Relationship Between Start-to-Open and Operating Stroke

(Full-Open)
The normal tolerance for the start-to-open temperature is +1.11°C or -1.67°C (+2°F or -3°F).

To ensure sufficient coolant flows through the radiator, the thermostat start-to-open temperature
and the full-open dimension should be checked. Thermostats may be tested on a simple fixture.
See Figure 4-68.
Figure 4-68 Testing a Thermostat in the Test Fixture
Materials
This fixture can be made from the following readily available materials:
□ 1 - Stainless steel or non-ferrous metal vessel approximately 203.2 mm (8 in.) diameter
by 152.4 mm (6 in.) deep
□ 1 - 2000 watt immersion-type heating element
□ 1 - Thermostatic control having a 15.6°-110°C (60°-230°F) temperature range and a
capillary tube sensing device
□ 1 - 304.8 mm (12 in.) length of 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) copper tubing
□ 1 - 9.53 mm (0.375 in.) drain valve

□ 1 - 190.5 mm (7.5 in.) diameter piece of 12-gage galvanized sheet steel or 3.18 mm (0.125
in.) aluminum (for bed plate)
□ 1 - Bulkhead fitting
□ 1 - Air control valve
□ 1 - Laboratory thermometer with a range of 15.6°-110°C (60°-230°F)
□ 1 - Dial indicator having a one inch travel with a 9.53 mm (0.375 in.) gage holding rod and
swivel post lock screwThe thermostat test fixture consists of the test vessel with control
and the test plate assembly. See Figure 4-69 and see Figure 4-70.
1. Thermostatic Control 4. Vessel

2. Capillary Tube 5. Immersion Heating Element
3. Aeration Line 6. Air Valve
Figure 4-69 Test Vessel and Control

1. Thermostat Bore 5. Gage Holding Rod

2. Bed Plate 6. Dial Indicator
3. Upright Base Post 7. Thermometer Holes
4. Swivel Post Snug
Figure 4-70 Test Plate Assembly
Making the Test Fixture
Perform the following steps for making the test fixture:

1. Drill a 3.18 mm (0.125 in.) hole in the vessel side, and braze a bulkhead fitting to the
vessel to accept an air control valve.
NOTE:
Shop air will be used to agitate the water and relieve temperature stratification within
the vessel.
2. Manufacture an aeration line from a 304.8 mm (12 in.) length of 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) copper
tubing by drilling four equally spaced 3.18 mm (0.125 in.) holes in the tube and crimping
or blocking one end.
3. Attach the open end of the tube to the air valve, and bend the tube to the inside contour
of the vessel.
4. Install a 9.53 mm (0.375 in.) drain valve in the lower portion of the vessel.
5. Fabricate the bed plate from 12-gage galvanized steel or 9.53 mm (0.375 in.) aluminum
sheet stock.
NOTE:
The bed plate is used to suspend the thermostat at a mid-point in the vessel. This
component must fit squarely in the vessel and have legs of sufficient length to ensure
that stats will not contact the heating element and aeration line.
6. Bore 39.6875 mm, 50.8 mm, and 69.85 mm (1.5625 in., 2 in., and 2.75 in.) holes in the
plate spaced 120 degrees from each other to facilitate the variety of stats installed.
7. Drill three 11.113 mm (0.4375 in.) holes at 60 degrees from each thermostat mounting
bore for conveniently locating a thermometer during testing.
8. Install a 3/8 in. x 8 in. upright base post in the center of the plate to provide the mounting
for a dial indicator.
9. Attach the dial indicator gage to the upright center post of the plate to permit accurate
thermostat travel measurement.
NOTE:
The bed plate and dial indicator shown have components added to raise the indicator
vertically above the gage holding rod. The extra items are not required.
Thermostat Testing Procedure
Test the thermostat as follows:
NOTE:
This procedure will take time to do properly.

1. Place the vessel on a level surface and lower the bed plate into position. See Figure 4-71.
1. Thermostat Bore 5. Gage Holding Rod

2. Bed Plate 6. Dial Indicator
3. Upright Base Post 7. Thermometer Holes
4. Swivel Post Snug
Figure 4-71 Test Plate Assembly

SCALDING
To avoid injury from scalding, use lifting tools and wear
heat-resistant gloves when retrieving the thermostat from
boiling water.
2. Fully submerge the thermostat in warm water, and place a laboratory thermometer in one
of the 11.113 mm (0.4375 in.) holes on the bed plate.
3. Position the dial indicator over the thermostat.
4. Center the contact point on the motor mechanism, and set the dial to zero.
NOTE:
To ensure accurate test results, allow the thermostat to warm up to water temperature
before testing.
5. Turn on the heating element (if necessary), and bring water temperature to a few
degrees below the start-to-open temperature of the thermostat being tested. Hold at this
temperature for 2-3 minutes.
6. With the heating element on, adjust the air valve to sufficiently agitate the water for equal
heat distribution.
7. Bring bath temperature to the maximum specified start-to-open temperature of the
thermostat.
8. Observe the dial indicator, and note the temperature at which the needle begins to move.
NOTE:
This is referred to as the start-to-open temperature. The total indicator travel, from
start-to-open to full-open is referred to as the full open travel.
9. For full-open temperature and travel, raise bath temperature a few degrees above the
specified full-open temperature. Hold at that temperature for 2 to 3 minutes.
NOTE:
To efficiently test a number of thermostats, simply add cold water to the vessel. This will
reduce the water temperature to a level below the next thermostat opening temperature,
thus saving time.
10. Turn the heating element off after completing the tests.
CONDUCTING COOLING TESTS
When conducting cooling tests on an engine, radiator/heat exchanger coolant must flow. Coolant
flow and the accuracy of cooling system test results depend largely upon the condition of the
thermostat installation. If maximum flow does not occur, check for these causes:

1. Thermostat(s) not blocked open to correct dimension.

2. Thermostat housing seal(s) is missing.
3. Thermostat housing seal(s) is worn.
4. Thermostat housing cover bypass cavity sealing surface(s) is not centered and/or worn.
FIND COOLANT LEAKS WITH FLUORESCENT DYE, BLACK LIGHT
Finding the source of an engine coolant leak is often a time-consuming affair. To speed the
process, a fluorescent dye such as 15174 Uranine (or equivalent) may be added to the coolant.
Under an ultraviolet "black light," the Uranine dye-treated coolant turns a highly visible, bright
yellow-green color, making the leak path easy to trace.
15174 Uranine is manufactured by Chemcentral Corporation and is available through their
distributor network. For further information contact:
CHEMCENTRAL CORPORATION
7050 West 71st Street
Chicago, Illinois 60638
FAN HUB GREASE FITTING
A grease fitting may be added to former fan hub assemblies used on vehicle engines to permit
periodic lubrication of the bearings.
Rework the fan hub as follows:
1. Disassemble the fan hub assembly, and clean the parts thoroughly. Refer to section 4.8.3.

2. Drill and tap the fan hub to accept a 1/8 in. PTF x 11/16 in. threaded lubricator fitting.
See Figure 4-72.
1. Grease Fitting 4. Pulley (3 Groove)

2. Relief Valve 5. Pulley (2 Groove)
3. Fan Hub Cap
Figure 4-72 Location of Fan Hub Grease Fitting and Relief Valve
3. Clean the hub to remove any metal chips.

4. Assemble the fan hub. Refer to section 4.8.7.
NOTE:
Discard the former grease retainer. It is not required when a grease fitting is used.
5. Install a new fan hub cap which is threaded for a relief valve.

6. Install a grease fitting in the fan hub and a relief valve in the fan hub cap. For the
maintenance schedule, refer to section 13.33.
DRAINING JABSCO RAW WATER PUMP
Although all engine units are provided with draincocks for draining the cooling system, a small
amount of coolant may remain in the impeller housing of a Jabsco pump.
Under normal circumstances, there is no need to completely drain the impeller housing of a raw
water pump. Therefore, no drain plug has been incorporated. However, certain models employ a
raw water pump in conjunction with a fresh water cooling system.
If the engine is to be stored in below freezing temperatures, in addition to draining the cooling
system of the engine unit, the impeller housing of the Jabsco pump should be completely drained.
1. Loosen the five (5) fillister head screws that attach the end cover to the pump housing
at the impeller end of the pump.
2. Pull the end cover away from the pump body, taking care to avoid damaging the gasket.
NOTE:
The screws need only be loosened sufficiently to completely drain the impeller housing.
3. Tighten the screws.
RAW WATER PUMP IMPELLERS
The Jabsco raw water pump is equipped with synthetic rubber impellers. Since synthetic rubber
begins to lose elasticity at low temperatures, impellers made of natural rubber may be installed
when pumping raw water with a temperature below 4°C (40°F).
New service impellers of natural rubber are identified by a stripe of green paint.
Standard impellers must be used when the pump operates in warmer water.

LEFT-BANK MANIFOLD WATER SUPPLY (MARINE ENGINES 12V)
In April 1991, the left-bank manifold water supply changed location from the S tube between the
water pump and the oil coolers. This change supplies more water to the manifold and eliminates
the possibility of a flow restriction. If a left-bank manifold cracks, update the engine to the new
water supply. When repairing one engine on a boat, rework the other engine also. See Figure 4-73.
Figure 4-73 Current S Tube with Left-Bank Manifold
NEW CONSTANT-TORQUE HOSE CLAMPS ON FORWARD PLAN(MARINE

ENGINES)
New constant-torque hose clamps are installed on all forward plan marine engines. These
worm-drive, stainless steel clamps feature a series of Belleville spring washers that maintain
consistent sealing pressure and an integral liner that covers the band slots, protecting the hose
from damage.
Constant-torque clamps automatically adjust their diameters to compensate for the normal
expansion and contraction of hose and metal connections that occurs during engine operation and
shutdown. This greatly minimizes clamp maintenance.
The new clamps replace the standard worm-drive clamps on all forward plan marine water hose
connections and on certain breather, oil drain, and air inlet hose connections.
Constant-torque clamps are properly tightened during engine assembly. There is no need to
torque clamps on a regular basis.
The former standard worm-drive hose clamps will continue to be used in other engine
applications. However, because of the virtually maintenance-free sealing provided by the new
clamps, DDC recommends using them when replacing a forward plan marine engine water hose.

Install the clamps as follows:
NOTICE:
Do not overtighten or attempt to torque. Hose clamps will break.
Using an accurately calibrated torque wrench, tighten the clamp screw to 10.17 ± 1.13 N·m
(90 ± 10 lb·in).
NOTE:
When torqued to specification, the Belleville washer stacks should be nearly collapsed
flat and the screw tip should extend beyond the housing approximately 3/16 in. This
indicates the clamp is properly installed and is maintaining a leak-proof connection.
HEAT EXCHANGER EXPANSION TANK SIGHT GLASS REPLACEMENT
Many heat exchanger expansion tanks used with Detroit Diesel marine engines are equipped
with low coolant level sight glasses.
If a sight glass is damaged and requires replacement, assembly 23507178 can be used to service
all three designs.
Replacement of Threaded Type Sight Glass
When replacing the threaded glass type sight glasses, reuse the O-ring seal.
1. Install the O-ring seal over the male threads of the sight glass adaptor.

2. Thread the assembly into the sight glass boss until the assembly bottoms against the
adaptor in the top tank. See Figure 4-74.
1. Boss 3. Glass
2. O-ring
Figure 4-74 Threaded Glass
Replacement of Flange Type Sight Glass
When servicing flange type sight glasses that have been welded or brazed to the top tank,
disassemble 23507178. Use only the components needed to make the repair. See Figure 4-75.

1. Tighten the sight glass retaining nut until the hex bottoms against the adaptor.
1. Boss 3. Nut
2. O-ring 4. Glass
Figure 4-75 Flanged Glass with Adaptor Welded to Tank
Replacement of Flange Type Sight Glass with Adaptor
Replace the flange type sight glass with the sight glass adaptor as follows:
1. Thread sight glass into a 1/2 in. NPTF boss on the expansion tank.

2. Remove the old assembly and replace with 23507178. See Figure 4-76.
1. Boss 4. Nut
2. Adaptor 5. Glass
3. O-ring
Figure 4-76 Flanged Glass with 0.50 in. NPTF Boss/Welded to Tank

Water Outlet Cover Plate Bolt 3/8-16 27-34 N·m (20-25 lb·ft)
Water Manifold Nut 3/8-24 27-34 N·m (20-25 lb·ft)
Water Pump Impeller Retaining Nut 7/16-20 47-54 N·m (35-40 lb·ft)
Table 4-1 Exceptions to Standard Bolt and Nut Torque Specifications
STUD TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application N·m lb·ft

Water Pump Body (16V) 14-27 10-20
Water Pump Stud (16V) 16-20 12-15
Table 4-2 Stud Torque Specifications

5 FUEL, LUBRICATING OIL, AND COOLANT
Section Page
5.1 FUEL ........................................................................................................ 5-3

5.2 LUBRICATING OIL REQUIREMENTS ..................................................... 5-19
5.3 COOLANT ................................................................................................ 5-28
5.1 FUEL
Selection of the proper quality of fuel and lubricating oil is important to achieve the long and
trouble-free service for which Detroit Diesel engines are designed. Operation with improper fuels
and lubricants can cause engine damage. Malfunctions attributable to neglect or failure to follow
manufacturer's fuel or lubricating recommendations may not be covered by the warranty.
A Detroit Diesel Corporation extended warranty program (Power Protection Plan) requirement is
that the customer use the lubricants, fuels, and filters recommended.
It is Detroit Diesel's policy to build engines which will operate satisfactorily with fuels and
lubricants available in the commercial market. However, not all fuels and lubricants are adequate.
Product selection should be made based on these recommendations and in consultation with a
reliable supplier who understands the equipment and its application.
5.1.1 Quality and Selection
The quality of fuel used is a very important factor in obtaining satisfactory engine performance,
long engine life, and acceptable exhaust emission levels. Detroit Diesel engines are designed to
operate on most diesel fuels marketed today. In general, fuels meeting the properties of ASTM
Designation D 975 (grades 1-D and 2-D) have provided satisfactory performance. The ASTM D
975 specification, however, does not in itself adequately define the fuel characteristics required
for fuel quality assurance.
5.1.1.1 Fuel Lubricity
Some fuels such as those containing kerosene and jet fuel and some low sulfur fuels have
characteristics which may cause operational concerns in some engine designs. The unit fuel
injection system used on all Detroit Diesel manufactured engines has demonstrated trouble-free
operation on a wide variety of fuels without the need for supplemental additives.
5.1.1.2 Biodiesel Fuels
Biodiesel fuels may be produced from a wide variety of sources and may be used in all DDC
engines provided they are derived from soy methyl ester (SME) and rape methyl ester (RME)
and are blended to a maximum of 20% by volume in diesel fuel. The resulting blend must meet
the properties listed in Table 5-1.

5.1 FUEL
General Fuel
ASTM Test Method No. 1 ASTM 1-D No. 2 ASTM 2-D #
Classification
API Gravity, @ 60°F * D 287 40-44 34-38
Specific Gravity, @ 60°F * D 1298 0.806 - 0.825 0.835 - 0.855
Flash Point, °C, Minimum D 93 38 52
Viscosity, Kinematic
D 445 1.3-2.4 1.9-4.1
cST @ 40°C
Sulfur wt%, Maximum D 2622 0.5 ‡ 0.5 ‡
Cloud Point °F (°C) † D 2500 Note 1 Note 1
Cetane Number., Minimum D 613 45 45
Cetane Index, Minimum † D 4737 40 40
Distillation % Volume
Recovery, °F (°C) - -
IBP, Typical * 350 (177) 375 (191)
10% Typical * 385 (196) 430 (221)
50% Typical * D 86 425 (218) 510 (266)
90% Maximum † 500 (260) 625 (329)
95% Maximum * 550 (288) 671 (355)
Recovered Volume, % 98 98
Minimum *
Water & Sediment, %
D 2709 0.05 0.05
Maximum
Ash, % Maximum D 482 0.01 0.01
Carbon Residue on 10%,
D 524 0.15 0.35
wt%, Maximum
Copper Corrosion,
D 130 No. 3 No. 3
Maximum 3h
Accelerated Storage
D 2274 15 mg/L 15 mg/L
Stability Maximum *
Dupont Pad Test, Rating
TM-F21-61 § 7 7
Maximum *
Lubricity, gm, Maximum * D-6078 2800 2800
* Not specified ASTM D 975
† Differs from ASTM D 975
‡ Sulfur content of diesel fuel for use in on-road vehicles is limited to 0.5% maximum.
§ Alternate test method for predicting fuel stability. The visual rating is related to amount of particulate collected, on a scale of 1
(clean) to 20 (dirty).
Scuffing Load Ball on Cylinder Wear Test. Higher values indicate less wear and greater lubricity.
# No. 2 diesel fuel may be used in city coach engine models which have been certified to pass Federal and California emission
standards.
1. The cloud point should be 6°C (10°F) below the lowest expected fuel temperature to prevent clogging of fuel filters by wax crystals.
When prolonged idling periods or cold weather conditions below 0°C (32°F) are encountered, use of 1-D fuel is recommended.
Table 5-1 Diesel Fuel Specifications

Although such blends purport to reduce exhaust emission particulates, they increase engine
exhaust nitrogen oxides content. They also tend to have poorer thermal stability and may
deteriorate engine oil TBN more rapidly than wholly petroleum-based diesel fuels. Use of these
fuels may require a reduction in oil drain interval. These fuel blends have not been fully evaluated
relative to diesel fuel system durability or engine oil effects.
5.1.1.3 Other Fuels
In addition to the diesel fuels listed in Table 5-1, customers have used other fuels successfully,
including fuels marketed as premium diesel fuels, kerosene-based jet fuels, and other fuels
listed in Table 5-2. These fuels have provided economic and availability advantages for some
applications, particularly where 1-D type fuels are required, and may be used in all Detroit Diesel
engines. These fuels should be accompanied by exhaust emission data demonstrating emission
equivalency to 1-D for those engines requiring 1-D fuel. Fuel type specifications and applications
are listed in Table 5-3.
Jet
Conus Conus Oconus
Property A/A-1 D JP-5 JP-8
DF-1 DF-2 DF-2
1655
API Gravity,
44.3 41.1 45.6 42.3 34.2 38.5
@ 60°F
Flash Point,
38 62 45 50 74 70
°C
Viscosity, Kin.,
- 1.5 1.2 1.69 2.8 3.0
cSt @ 40°C
Cloud Point °C -40 -46 -47 -41 -12 -19
Sulfur, % 0.05 0.05 0.03
0.3 Maximum 0.4 Maximum 0.4 Maximum
mass Maximum Maximum Maximum
Cetene
- 42 45 44 47 49
Number
Distillation %
Vol. Recov-
ered.,°C
IBP - 180 157 174 190 176
10% Typical 205 191 175 196 222 219
50% Typical Report 215 200 219 265 365
90%
Report 242 236 246 313 311
Maximum
Final Boiling
Point,
300 - - - - -
Maximum
Temperature
Heat Content,
123,608 125,270 123,069 125,960 131,207 127,820
Btu/Gal., Net
Table 5-2 Selected Typical Fuel Properties

5.1 FUEL
NATO
Type Mil Specification Application
Specification
Jet, Fuel, Contains
JP-4 F-40 Mil-T-5624 50% Gasoline, Not
Recommended
JP-5 F-44 Mil-T-5624 Jet Fuel, Kerosene Based
Jet A-1 with De-icer and
JP-8 F-34 Mil-T-83133
Corrosion Inhibitor
Jet A None None Industry Standard Jet Fuel
Jet A-1 F-35 None Jet Fuel, ASTM D 1655
Specified Military Use
DL-1/DL-2 F-54 W-F-800 Conus
Inside Continental US
Specified Military Use
DF-2 F-54 W-F-800 Oconus
Outside Continental US
Table 5-3 Fuel Type Specifications and Applications
Lower density fuels, such as those listed in Table 5-3 and "winter blended" diesel fuels, have
a lower volumetric heat content than the standard 2-D fuel listed in Table 5-4, "Diesel Fuel
Specification". Operating with these fuels will result in reduced engine output and reduced fuel
mileage compared to standard 2-D fuel. Reductions of 5% are not unusual and may be as high
as 10%. A good rule of thumb is this: The engine power is proportional to the heating value
of the fuel.

General Fuel ASTM Test No. 1 ASTM No. 2 ASTM

Classification Method 1-D 2-D #
API Gravity, @ 60°F * D 287 40-44 34-38
D 445 1.3-2.4 1.9-4.1
cST @ 40°C
Recovery, °F (°C)
IBP, Typical * 350 (177) 375 (191)
IBP, Typical * 385 (196) 430 (221)
10% Typical * 425 (218) 510 (266)
D 86
50% Typical * 500 (260) 625 (329)
90% Maximum † 550 (288) 671 (355)
95% Maximum * 98 98
Recovered Volume, %
Minimum *
Water & Sediment, %
D 2709 0.05 0.05
Maximum
Ash, % Maximum D 482 0.01 0.01
D 524 0.15 0.35
wt%, Maximum
Copper Corrosion,
D 130 No. 3 No. 3
Maximum 3h
Accelerated Storage
D 2274 15 mg/L 15 mg/L
Stability Maximum *
TM-F21-61 § 7 7
Maximum *
# No.2 diesel fuel may be used in city coach engine models which have been certified to pass Federal and California emission
standards.

5.1 FUEL
Lower density fuels also tend to have lower viscosity and poor lubrication characteristics.
Secondary fuel filtration should be changed to Power Guard ™ Plus Filters (recommended
for severe duty service) to prevent potential injector seizure from dirt contamination of fuel.
Listed in Table 5-5.
Power Guard
Power Guard Power Guard
Plus
Engine Quantity Primary Fuel Quantity Secondary Fuel
Secondary Fuel
Filter Filter
Filter
6V-92 1 23518481 1 23518482 23518530
8V-92 1 23518481 1 23518482 23518530
12V-92 1 23518528 1 23518532 23518529
16V-92 1 23518528 1 23518532 23518529
Table 5-5 Spin-On Fuel Filter Elements
5.1.1.4 Heavy Fuels Not Recommended
Heavy fuels intended for use in slow speed diesel engines and as burner fuel are not recommended
for use in any Detroit Diesel engine. Marine fuels specified by ASTM D2069 (ISO 8217) are
examples of such fuels. These fuels are known to cause combustion deposits and will likely
reduce engine durability.
5.1.1.5 Premium Diesel Fuel
Several oil companies market fuels they designate as "premium" diesel fuel. This fuel will
typically have a higher cetane number and lower density than ASTM D975 2D fuel. These fuels
will also have a performance additive package. Although premium diesel fuels are not covered by
any existing industry specification, they may be used in DDC engines. It is recommended that the
customer obtain additional information from the fuel marketer and compare properties to those
listed in Table 5-6, "Diesel Fuel Specification", before using.


API Gravity, @ 60°F * D 287 40-44 34-38
D 445 1.3-2.4 1.9-4.1
cST @ 40°C
Recovery, °F (°C)
350 (177) 375 (191)
IBP, Typical *
385 (196) 430 (221)
10% Typical *
425 (218) 510 (266)
50% Typical * D 86
500 (260) 625 (329)
90% Maximum †
550 (288) 671 (355)
95% Maximum *
98 98
Recovered Volume, %
Minimum *
Water & Sediment, %
D 2709 0.05 0.05
Maximum
Ash, % Maximum D 482 0.01 0.01
D 524 0.15 0.35
wt%, Maximum
Copper Corrosion,
D 130 No. 3 No. 3
Maximum 3h
Accelerated Storage
D 2274 15 mg/L 15 mg/L
Stability Maximum *
TM-F21-61 § 7 7
Maximum *
standards.

5.1 FUEL
5.1.2 Diesel Fuel Selection Criteria
The boiling range indicates the temperature range over which the fuel turns to a vapor, and is a
very important property in considering diesel fuel quality. Lower boiling range fuels, such as No.
1D, have a higher volatility, while fuels such as No. 2D fuel are of lower volatility and higher
temperature boiling range. Higher volatility fuels are preferred in conditions of prolonged idling,
such as city coach applications, or in cold temperatures. The determination of boiling range is
made using ASTM Test Method D86 or D2887 (Gas Chromotography Test Method).
5.1.2.1 Distillation
Although many specifications contain only a partial listing of the distillation results (Distillation
Temperature at 90% Recovered, for example), this is not enough to determine the quality and
suitability of the fuel for use in diesel engines. Diesel fuels are blended products which may
contain high boiling temperature constituents that can affect combustion. Only fuels with a
minimum 98% recovery by distillation should be used. The full boiling range as shown in
previous tables should be used for proper selection.
5.1.2.2 95% Boiling Point
Fuel can be burned in an engine only after it has been completely vaporized. The temperature at
which the fuel is completely vaporized is described as the "End Point Temperature" in ASTM D
86 Distillation Test Method. Since this temperature is difficult to measure with good repeatability,
the fuel's 90% or 95% distillation point is often used. DDC specifies the 95% temperature because
it is closer to the end point than the 90% used by ASTM in D975.
5.1.2.3 Cetane Number
Cetane Number is a relative measure of the time delay between the beginning of fuel injection and
the start of combustion. In cold engine starting a low cetane number will cause difficult starting
and white exhaust smoke until the engine warms up. In engines with charge air cooling a low
cetane number fuel may also cause white exhaust smoke during light load operation.
A minimum cetane number of 45 is specified for best engine performance. However, the cetane
number alone should not be considered when selecting a quality fuel. Other properties, such as
95% distillation temperature and carbon residue, should also be considered.
Calculated Cetane Index is sometimes reported instead of Cetane Number. Cetane Index is an
empirical property determined mathematically from boiling range temperatures and specific
gravity of the fuel, whereas Cetane Number is determined through an engine test. Additives may
be used by the fuel marketer to improve the cetane number; however, they have no effect on
cetane index. Both properties should be evaluated when selecting diesel fuel.

5.1.2.4 Fuel Stability
Diesel fuel oxidizes in the presence of air, heat, and water, particularity if the fuel contains
cracked products which are relatively unstable. The oxidation of fuel can result in the formation
of undesirable gums and black sediment. Such undesirable products can cause filter plugging,
combustion chamber deposit formation, and gumming or lacquering of injection system
components with resultant reduced engine performance and fuel economy. Two tests are specified
for fuel stability, ASTM Test Method D 2274 which measures diesel fuel storage oxidative
stability and the DuPont Pad Test which measures in-use stability. The DuPont test should be
conducted at 149 C (300 F). The results of the DuPont Pad Test are based on a visual rating of
the filter pad in a range from 1 to 20, 1 being clean. ASTM D2274 is a weighed measure of the
sediment filtered from the fuel after storage. Although the results of D 2274 may vary with actual
field storage, it does measure characteristics which will affect fuel storage stability for periods
of up to 12 months.
5.1.2.5 Fuel Sulfur Content
Diesel fuel sulfur content above 0.3% mass causes premature ring and cylinder wear and deposit
formation. It has also been identified as a major contributor to exhaust particulates, which became
a federal regulated exhaust constituent in 1988. Fuel sulfur was limited to 0.05% for U.S.
on-highway engines beginning in October 1993 to reduce particulate emissions.
Diesel fuels with low sulfur content should be selected. If the use of fuels with sulfur contents
above 0.5% are unavoidable, lube oil drain intervals and lubricant selection need to be changed.
Detroit Diesel recommends that the Total Base Number (TBN D 4739) of the lubricant be
monitored and that the oil drain interval be reduced.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has mandated that all 1994 model year on-highway
diesel engines manufactured for use in the United States must meet a new reduced exhaust
particulate content of 0.10 gram/horsepower-hour. Refer to section 5.2.1.7 “Oil Drain Intervals".
5.1.2.6 Fuel Operating Temperature and Viscosity
Since diesel fuel provides cooling of the injection system, the temperature of the fuel may vary
considerably due to engine operating temperature. As fuel temperature increases, fuel viscosity
decreases, along with the lubrication capabilities of the fuel. Maintaining proper fuel temperatures
and selecting fuels with the viscosity ranges listed in Table 5-7, "Diesel Fuel Specification", will
assure proper injection system functioning.

5.1 FUEL

API Gravity, @ 60°F * D 287 40-44 34-38
D 445 1.3-2.4 1.9-4.1
cST @ 40°C
350 (177) 375 (191)
Recovery, °F (°C) IBP,
385 (196) 430 (221)
Typical *10% Typical
425 (218) 510 (266)
*50% Typical *90% D 86
500 (260) 625 (329)
Maximum †95% Maximum
550 (288) 671 (355)
*Recovered Volume, %
98 98
Minimum *
Water & Sediment, %
D 2709 0.05 0.05
Maximum
Ash, % Maximum D 482 0.01 0.01
D 524 0.15 0.35
wt%, Maximum
Copper Corrosion,
D 130 No. 3 No. 3
Maximum 3h
Accelerated Storage
D 2274 15 mg/L 15 mg/L
Stability Maximum *
TM-F21-61 § 7 7
Maximum *
standards.

When operating with reduced fuel viscosity or elevated fuel temperatures the injectors will
operate at reduced internal clearances. As a result, dirt and smaller particulate material may cause
injector durability concerns. Secondary filters on Detroit Diesel two stroke-cycle engines should
be changed to Power Guard Plus Filters (recommended for severe duty service) listed in Table
5-8. Installing a fuel cooler or operating with fuel tanks above half full may also help eliminate
the concern.
Power Guard Power Guard Power Guard

Engine Quantity Primary Fuel Quantity Secondary Fuel Plus Secondary
Filter Filter Fuel Filter
6V-92 1 23518481 1 23518482 23518530
8V-92 1 23518481 1 23518482 23518530
12V-92 1 23518528 1 23518532 23518529
16V-92 1 23518528 1 23518532 23518529
5.1.2.7 Fuel Additives
Detroit Diesel engines are designed to operate satisfactorily on a wide range of diesel fuels. The
regular use of supplemental fuel additives is not required or recommended. Some additives
may be beneficial in addressing temporary fuel quality problems but should not replace proper
fuel selection and handling.
5.1.2.8 Water Contamination
Some fuel additives provide temporary benefit when fuel is contaminated with water. They are
not intended to replace good fuel handling practices. Where water contamination is a concern, the
fuel system should be equipped with a fuel/water separator which should be serviced regularly. In
marine and other environments where microbe growth is a problem, a fungicide such as Biobor®
JF (or equivalent) may be used. Microbial activity may be confirmed with commercially available
test kits. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for treatment. Avoid the use of fungicides
containing halogenated compounds, since these may cause fuel system corrosion.
When small amounts of water are present, supplemental additives containing methyl carbitol or
butyl cellusolve are effective. Follow the manufacturer instructions for their use.
NOTE:
The use of isopropyl alcohol is no longer recommended due to its negative effect on fuel
lubricity.
5.1.2.9 Prohibited Fuel Additives
The following fuel additives are not allowed:

5.1 FUEL
Used Lubricating Oil: Detroit Diesel specifically prohibits the use of drained lubricating oil in
diesel fuel. Used lubricating oil contains combustion acids and particulate materials which erode
injector components, resulting in loss of power and increased exhaust emissions. In addition, the
use of drained lubricating oil will increase maintenance requirements due to filter plugging and
combustion deposits. Refer to section 5.2.1.6 on "Waste Oil Disposal and Re-refined Oils" for
recommendations on proper used oil disposal.
Gasoline : The addition of gasoline to diesel fuel will create a serious fire hazard. The presence
of gasoline in diesel fuel will reduce fuel cetane number and increase combustion temperatures.
Tanks which contain such mixtures should be drained and cleaned as soon as possible.
Detroit Diesel Corporation will not be responsible for any detrimental effects which it determines
resulted from the use of used lubricating oil or gasoline in the diesel fuel.
5.1.2.10 Evaluation of Supplemental Fuel Additives
There are many supplements available today which are intended to be added to the fuel by the
customer. These include a variety of independently marketed products which claim to be:
□ Cetane Improvers
□ Emission Control Additives
□ Detergents
□ Combustion Improvers
□ Smoke Suppressants
□ Cold Weather Flow Improvers
Should a customer decide that a supplemental additive is to be used, the following is intended to
provide guidance to the customer in evaluating potential safety hazards and deleterious engine
effects:
NOTE:
Detroit Diesel will not test or verify the performance of any supplemental fuel additives
□ A Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) should be carefully reviewed for special handling
instructions and hazardous material content. Additives containing hazardous materials
should not be used due to personal safety risk.
□ A detailed compositional analysis should be provided by the supplier. Ash forming metallic
elements and corrosive elements must not be present. Additives containing calcium,
barium, zinc, phosphorous, sodium, magnesium, iron, copper, and manganese are known
to cause combustion ash deposits which can foul fuel injectors and create deposits which
may adversely affect cylinder life. Halogenated compounds containing chloride, fluoride,
and bromide, are corrosive, as are some sulfur containing compounds. The use of additives
with these components should be avoided.
□ Many commercial diesel fuels today contain performance additives, particularly those
marketed as "premium" diesel fuel. Any supplemental additive being considered must be
compatible with the fuel it will be used in.DDC suggests that a mixture containing twice

the recommended concentration of additive be evaluated for compatibility to represent an

overdosage condition, using the tests listed in Table 5-9.

API Gravity, @ 60°F * D 287 40-44 34-38
D 445 1.3-2.4 1.9-4.1
cST @ 40°C
350 (177) 375 (191)
Recovery, °F (°C) IBP,
385 (196) 430 (221)
Typical *10% Typical
425 (218) 510 (266)
*50% Typical *90% D 86
500 (260) 625 (329)
Maximum †95% Maximum
550 (288) 671 (355)
*Recovered Volume, %
98 98
Minimum *
Water & Sediment, %
D 2709 0.05 0.05
Maximum
Ash, % Maximum D 482 0.01 0.01
D 524 0.15 0.35
wt%, Maximum
Copper Corrosion,
D 130 No. 3 No. 3
Maximum 3h
Accelerated Storage
D 2274 15 mg/L 15 mg/L
Stability Maximum *
TM-F21-61 § 7 7
Maximum *
standards.
Note 1: The cloud point should be 6°C (10°F) below the lowest expected fuel temperature to prevent clogging of fuel filters by
wax crystals.
□ Performance evaluation of a fuel supplemental additive should be conducted in customer

equipment for a minimum of six months. Testing should be a side-by-side comparison with

5.1 FUEL
and without the additive to verify performance claims. Testimonials are not substantial
claims of performance.
NOTICE:
Supplemental fuel additives are not recommended due to
potential injector system or engine damage.
Our experience has been that such additives increase operating costs without providing benefit.
NOTE:
The use of supplemental fuel additives does not necessarily void the engine warranty.
However, repair expenses which result from fuel system or engine component
malfunctions or damage attributed to their use will not be covered.
These products should be accompanied with performance data supporting their merit. It is not the
policy of Detroit Diesel Corporation to test, evaluate, approve, or endorse such products.
5.1.3 Diesel Fuel Storage and Cleanliness
Fuel oil should be clean and free of contamination. Storage tanks and stored fuel should be
inspected regularly for dirt, water, and sludge.
NOTICE:
Do not use galvanized steel or sheet metal tanks and galvanized
pipes or fittings in any diesel fuel storage, delivery, or fuel system.
The fuel oil will react chemically with the zinc coating, forming a
compound which can clog fuel filters causing damage to the fuel
pump and injectors.
Tanks should be drained and cleaned, if contaminated. Diesel tanks can be made of monel,
stainless steel, black iron, welded steel or reinforced (non-reactive) plastic.
5.1.4 Filtration
Filters make up an integral part of fuel and lubricating oil systems. Proper filter selection and
maintenance are important to satisfactory engine operation and service life. Filters, however,
should be used to maintain a clean system, not to clean up a contaminated system.
5.1.4.1 Specifications
Filter performance and test specifications vary between manufacturers. The filters shown
in this section have been qualified to appropriate SAE performance specifications and meet
Detroit Diesel requirements. Other brands of filters may be used, provided they have equivalent
demonstrated performance.

5.1.4.2 Spin-On Fuel Filters
Regular duty Power Guard and Severe Duty Power Guard Plus spin-on fuel filters are
Power Guard
Power Guard Power Guard
Plus
Engine Quantity Primary Fuel Quantity Secondary Fuel
Secondary Fuel
Filter Filter
Filter
6V-92 1 23518481 1 23518482 23518530
8V-92 1 23518481 1 23518482 23518530
12V-92 1 23518528 1 23518532 23518529
16V-92 1 23518528 1 23518532 23518529
5.1.4.3 Fuel Pro Fuel Filters
Fuel Pro fuel filters are listed in Table 5-11.
Fuel Filter Part Number

Fuel Pro 230 23519978
Fuel Pro 321 23518481
Fuel Pro 380 23514049
Fuel Pro 40 Mega Filter 23512631
Table 5-11 Fuel Pro® Fuel Filter Elements
5.1.4.4 Sea Pro Fuel Filters
Sea Pro fuel filters are listed in Table 5-12.
Fuel Filter Part Number

Sea Pro 50/100 (30 Micron Filter) 23519851
Sea Pro 600 (20 Micron Filter) 23519404
Sea Pro 600 (30 Micron Filter) 23519405
Water In-Fuel Sensor Kit 23518182
Table 5-12 Sea Pro® Fuel Filter Elements

5.1 FUEL
5.1.4.5 Cartridge Type Fuel Filters
Cartridge type fuel filters are listed in Table 5-13.
DDC Part Number DDC Part Number

Engine Series
Primary Fuel Filter Secondary Fuel Filter
6V-92 23519151 23519152
8V-92 23519151 23519152
12V-92 23519153 23519154
16V-92 23519153 23519154
Table 5-13 Cartridge Type Fuel Filter Elements
5.1.4.6 Spin-On Lubricating Oil Filters
Spin-on lubricating oil filters are listed in Table 5-14.
Engine Quantity Power Guard Power Guard Plus

6V-92 1 23518671 23518524
8V-92 1 23518671 23518624
12V-92 2 or 4 23518671 23518524
16V-92 2 or 4 23518671 23518524
Table 5-14 Spin-On Lubricating Oil Filters
Finer filtration will generally provide increased engine service life, but may require shorter filter
change intervals. Detroit Diesel specifies filter performance based on the optimum combination
of filter micron rating, filter capacity, and mechanical requirements (assembly integrity).
5.1.4.7 Aftermarket Filtration
The aftermarket supplemental filtration systems may be used, provided they do not replace the
factory-installed system or reduce oil volumes, pressures, or flow rates delivered to the engine.
The use of such systems does not address oil degradation from normal use and, therefore, does
not permit extension of oil drain intervals. Fuel filters must be properly sized to provide the
proper fuel flow to the engine. A fuel/water separator, if used, must be installed between the fuel
tank and the inlet side of the engine fuel pump.

5.2 LUBRICATING OIL REQUIREMENTS
Engine service life depends upon selecting the proper lubricating oil and maintaining proper oil
and filter change intervals.
Hundreds of commercial oils are marketed today, but labeling terminology differs among
suppliers and can be confusing. Some manufacturers may claim that their lubricant is suitable for
all makes of diesel engines and may list engine makes and types, including Detroit Diesel, on
their containers. Such claims by themselves are insufficient as a method of lubricant selection
for Detroit Diesel engines.
The proper lubricating oil for all Detroit Diesel engines is selected based on SAE Viscosity
Grade and API (American Petroleum Institute) Service Designation. Both of these properties are
displayed in the API symbol which is illustrated within the specific requirements. See Figure 5-1.
Figure 5-1 API Symbol
5.2.1 Lubricant Requirements
For Detroit Diesel Series 92 engines, the proper lubricant must possess additional requirements.

The selection of the correct lubricating oil for Series 92 engines is dependent upon the engine
application and the fuel sulfur content. The guidelines listed in Table 5-15 should be used
to select the proper engine oil type.
Recommended Recommended
Engine Series Fuel Sulfur Content
Oil Type Primary Oil Type Secondary
53, 71, 92 All Applications Less Than 0.5% 1, 2 3, 4
53, 71, 92 All Applications 0.5 to 1.0% 1* 4
* The use of oils under these conditions requires a reduction in oil drain interval. For further information, refer to section 5.2.1.9,
"The Use of High Sulfur Fuel" in this section.
Table 5-15 Oil Type Selection Guidelines
After determining the proper oil type for the application and the anticipated fuel sulfur content,
the specifications listed in Table 5-16 should be used to identify the type of lubricant required.
Oil Type 1 2 3 4
CF-2 or LMOA Gen
API Classification * CF-2 CF-2 CF-2
IV/V †
Viscosity Grade ‡ 40 § 40 § 50 †† 50 ††
Sulfated Ash 1.0% max 0.8% max 0.8% max NS
Alkalinity (ASTM
7.0 min # 7.0 min # 7.0 min # 13.0 min
D2896)
Calcium, ppm No Limit No Limit 500 max No Limit
Zinc, ppm * * * * * * 100 max
Phosphorous, ppm * * * * * * 100 max
* Only oils which are licensed by the American Petroleum Institute are recommended in Detroit Diesel Series 92 engines. Licensed
Oils display the API Symbol: See Figure 5-1.
† LMOA = Locomotive Maintenance Officers' Association.
‡ For continuous high temperature operation over 94°C or (200°F) Coolant Out, the use of an SAE grade 50 lubricant is required for
all Series 92 engines.
§ At ambient temperatures below freezing 0°C or (32°F) sufficient starter cranking speed may not be achieved to start the engine with
SAE 40 grade oils. Where starting aids are not available or at very cold temperatures 18-32°C or (0-25°F), even if starting aids are
available, the use of multigrade SAE 15W-40 or monograde SAE 30 lubricants will improve startability. These lubricants must
possess a High Temperature - High Shear Rate Viscosity (measured by ASTM D 4741 or equivalent) of 3.70 cP minimum. These
oils must be replaced with monograde SAE 40 lubricants as soon as ambient conditions permit. Do Not use multigrade or
SAE 30 grade lubricants in two-stroke marine engines under any circumstances.
Sulfated ash to be determined by ASTM D874 and the result rounded to the nearest 0.1%.
# Engine oils with alkalinity between 6.5 and 7.0 may be used with demonstration of satisfactory performance and review by
Detroit Diesel.
* * Although not specified, zinc and phosphorous are recommended to be above 700 ppm.
†† At lower ambient temperatures where sufficient starter cranking speed may not be achieved to start the engine with SAE
50 grade oils. SAE 40 grade oils may be used.
Table 5-16 Oil Type Specifications

Lubricants meeting these criteria have provided maximum engine life when used in conjunction
with recommended oil drain and filter maintenance schedules.
Engine oils meeting military specification Mil-L-2104 are intended for use in military engines.
Due to the specific operating and life cycle requirements of military engines, the oils for these
engines tend to be specialized toward that application. Military specified oils (Mil-L-2104
suffixes A through F) should not be used in commercial Detroit Diesel two-stroke cycle engines
unless they are API CF-2 licensed.
5.2.1.1 Sulfated Ash and Total Base Number
Sulfated ash is a lubricant property measured by a laboratory test (ASTM D 874) to determine the
potential for formation of metallic ash. The ash residue is related to the additive composition of
the oil and is significant in predicting lubricants which may cause valve distress under certain
operating conditions. Sulfated ash is related to Total Base Number (TBN), which measures the
alkalinity of an oil and its ability to neutralize acid using a laboratory test (ASTM D 2896 or D
4739). As TBN increases, sulfated ash also increases to where lubricants with TBN's above 10
will likely have sulfated ash contents above 1.0% mass.
For Series 92 engines Detroit Diesel recommends lubricants with a sulfated ash content below
1.0% mass and TBN's between 7 and 10 (D 2896) for engines operating on less than 0.5% sulfur
fuel.
When the use of a high ash oil is required, such as with high sulfur fuel, the oil selected should
have the highest TBN (D 2896) to Ash (D 874) ratio possible. For example, an oil with a TBN
of 10 and Ash of 1.2% mass is less desirable than an oil with the same TBN and 1.0% Ash.
Refer to section 5.2.1.7 for oil drain intervals.
5.2.1.2 Synthetic Oils
Synthetic oils may be used in Detroit Diesel engines, provided they are API licensed and meet
the performance and chemical requirements of non-synthetic oils. However, only synthetic oils
that do not contain viscosity improver additives may be used in Detroit Diesel two-stroke cycle
engines. Their use does not automatically permit extension of recommended oil drain intervals.
Product information about synthetic oils should be reviewed carefully. Synthetic oils offer
improved low temperature flow properties and high temperature oxidation resistance.
5.2.1.3 Low Zinc, High TBN Marine Industrial Diesel Lubricants(Type 4

Oil)
Marine and railroad lubricants are recommended for use in Detroit Diesel two-stroke cycle
engines where fuel sulfur content exceeds 0.5%. These oils may also be selected for use when one
of the following situations exists:
□ Where there is a risk of resulting exhaust valve distress with a conventional high ash oil.
□ They are required in other equipment and only a single engine lubricant can be inventoried.

Detroit Diesel markets a Type 4 oil branded as Power Guard/Gard ™ Gold. In addition to meeting
DDC two-cycle engine requirements, this lubricant offers advantages of improved low and high
temperature performance and oil drain extension.
5.2.1.4 The Use of Supplemental Additives
Lubricants meeting the Detroit Diesel specifications outlined in this chapter contain a carefully
balanced additive treatment. The use of supplemental additives, such as break-in oils, top
oils, graphitizers and friction-reducing compounds, in these fully formulated lubricants are not
necessary and can upset the oil's formulation causing a deterioration in performance. These
supplemental additives may be marketed as either oil treatments or engine treatments and should
not be used in Detroit Diesel engines. Engine damage resulting from the use of such materials
is not covered by your Detroit Diesel Corporation warranty. Detroit Diesel will not provide
statements relative to their use beyond this manual.
5.2.1.5 Lubricant Selection Outside North America
Although the API Service Classification System is generally utilized worldwide, lubricants
meeting Detroit Diesel requirements may not be marketed in all areas of the world. Selection
of lubricants in these situations should be made based on viscosity grade first, ash content
second, and performance specification third. Oils meeting API CF may be used if they also meet
military specification Mil-L-2104 F. Oils which meet European ACEA E2 or E3 may also be
used. Modification of oil drain interval may be necessary, depending on fuel quality. Contact
Detroit Diesel Corporation for further guidance.
5.2.1.6 Waste Oil Disposal and Re-refined Oils
With over one billion gallons of waste oil generated annually in the U.S. alone, disposal of
waste oil has become a serious environmental concern. Re-refining waste oils provides an
environmentally viable way of handling this material. Several states have established collection
and recycling programs.
USED ENGINE OIL

A few states have also designated used oil as a hazardous waste requiring special handling and
disposal. Detroit Diesel favors the recycling of waste oil and permits the use of re-refined
oils in all engine product lines, provided the re-refined oil meets the SAE Viscosity and API
specifications previously mentioned. Refer to section 5.2.1.

5.2.1.7 Oil Drain Intervals
During use, engine lubricating oil undergoes deterioration from combustion by-products and
contamination by the engine. Certain components in a lubricant additive package are designed
to deplete with use. For this reason, regardless of the oil formulation, regular oil drain intervals
are necessary. These intervals may vary in length, depending on engine operation, fuel quality,
and lubricant quality. Generally, shorter oil drain intervals extend engine life through prompt
replenishment of the protection qualities in the lubricant.
The oil drain intervals listed in Table 5-17 should be considered maximum and listed in Table
5-18 should not be exceeded. Always install new engine oil filters when the oil is changed.
Service Application Oil Drain Interval

Highway Truck & Motor Coach 15,000 Miles (24,000 km)
City Transit Coaches 6,000 Miles (9,600 km) or 3 Months*
Pick-up & Delivery Stop & Go, Short Trip 12,000 Miles (19,000 km)
Industrial, Agricultural and Marine 150 Hours
Stationary Units, Continuous 300 Hours or 3 Months*
Stationary Units, Standby 150 Hours or 1 Year*
* Whichever comes first
Table 5-17 Maximum Allowable Oil Drain Intervals - Normal Operation with Low
Sulfur Fuel(0.5% or Less)

City Transit Coaches 4,000 Miles (6,400 km) or 3 Months Maximum*
Industrial, Agricultural and Marine 150 Hours or 1 Year*
Stationary Units, Continuous 200 Hours or 1 Month*
Stationary Units, Standby 100 Hours or 8 Months*
Table 5-18 Maximum Allowable Oil Drain Intervals - Normal Operation with High
Sulfur Fuel (Above 0.5%) Use Oil Analysis to Determine Optimum
Drain Intervals
5.2.1.8 Extended Oil Drain Intervals
Some oil companies may promote engine lubricants with a claimed useful life that would allow
customers following certain maintenance and operating parameters to elect to extend oil drain
intervals beyond the recommended periods. The ability of such lubricants to maintain their
protective qualities over a longer period and the acceptability of maintenance and operating
parameters must be established by the oil company and the customer. Claims for engine failure
attributable to the inadequacy of the lubricant are not covered under the terms of the engine's
limited warranty.

5.2.1.9 The Use of High Sulfur Fuels
Although diesel fuels containing more than 0.5% sulfur are considered high sulfur fuels, piston
ring wear studies have shown that the combustion of fuels containing more than 0.3% sulfur
significantly increases ring face wear rates. See Figure 5-2.
Figure 5-2 Effect of Sulfur in Fuel on Engine Life
High fuel sulfur forms acids during combustion, particularly during idling and low temperature
operation. The best defense against the effects of high sulfur fuel is to shorten oil drain intervals.
The proper drain interval may be determined by oil analysis or by using the drain intervals

City Transit Coaches 4,000 Miles (6,400 km) or 3 Months Maximum*
Drain Intervals

A reduction in TBN (ASTM D 4739) to one-third of the initial value provides a general drain
interval guideline. Marine fuels identified as meeting ASTM D2069, Specification for Marine
Fuels, should not be used in Detroit Diesel engines due to the high sulfur contents and boiling
ranges permitted.
Should it be determined that the oil drain interval is unacceptably short, then the selection of a
lubricant with a Total Base Number (TBN per ASTM D 2896) above 10 may be appropriate.
Experience has shown, however, that a higher TBN oil with a longer oil change interval is not as
effective in protecting the engine from wear. Use the intervals listed in Table 5-19 until the best
practical oil drain interval can be established by oil analysis.
Refer to section 5.2.1.3 for type 4 engine oils. These oils have generally demonstrated good
performance under these conditions without the exhaust valve guttering (burning) found with
conventional higher ash oils.

5.2.1.10 Used Lubricating Oil Analysis
A used oil analysis program such as the Detroit Diesel POWER Trac® oil analysis program is
recommended for monitoring crankcase oil in all engines. Oil analysis consists of a series of
laboratory tests conducted on the engine lubricant. Most tests reveal conditions of the engine,
while some indicate the condition of the lubricant. The "Warning Limits" listed in Table 5-20
show what each test evaluates. Since an oil analysis cannot completely assess the lubricating
oil for continued service, it should not be used to extend oil drain intervals. An oil analysis
program with regular sampling is recommended, and the oil should be changed immediately if
contamination is present in concentrations exceeding the warning limits listed in Table 5-20. If oil
contamination is found, refer to section 13.5.5.
ASTM Condition Series 92

Warning Limits
Designation Measured
Viscosity at 40°C (74°F), D445 Engine and Oil 40.0
cSt % Maximum Increase
Viscosity at 40°C (74°F), D445 Engine and Oil 15.0
cSt % Maximum Decrease
Carbon (Soot) Content, E1131 or LEMsm † Engine Combustion 0.8
TGA Mass % Maximum
Pentane Insolubles, % D893 Engine Combustion 1.0
Maximum
Total Base Number (TBN) D4739 OIL 1.0
Minimum
Total Base Number (TBN) D2896 OIL 2.0
Minimum
Water, Volume % D1744 Engine 0.30
Maximum
Fuel, Volume % Maximum D3524 Engine 2.5
Antifreeze Maximum D2982 Engine Negative
Iron, Fe ppm Maximum D5185 Engine Wear 150 (250*)
Copper, Cu ppm Maximum D5185 Engine Wear 25
(Above Baseline)
* Marine Engines Only
† LEMsm
These limits are intended to be used for guidance when a single oil sample is tested. Actual limits are dependent on engine,
application, and oil type. Refer to DDC publication 7SE398 to determine the warning limits specific to your application.
Table 5-20 Single Sample Used Oil Analysis Warning Limits
These limits are provided for guidance for a single sample analysis. It should never be concluded
that the engine is worn out based on a single measurement that exceeds the warning level.
Imminent engine wearout can only be determined through a continuous oil analysis program
wherein the change in data or deviation from baseline data can be used to interpret the condition of
engine parts. Confirmation for necessity of engine overhaul should be based upon operational data
(for example, increasing oil consumption and crankcase pressure) and physical inspection of parts.

5.2.1.11 Used Lubricating Oil Analysis Warning Limits
Warning Limits are based on a single oil sample taken by an accepted sampling method. These
values indicate the need for an immediate oil change, but do not indicate internal engine
malfunctions requiring engine teardown.

5.3 COOLANT
5.3 COOLANT
The following information is provided to guide Detroit Diesel engine users in the selection of a
suitable coolant for the cooling system using Detroit Diesel-selected cooling system products.
These recommendations are general rules and reflect years of experience, technology research,
and product development. Specific concerns not covered here should be addressed to your local
Detroit Diesel representative.
The coolant mixture used in Detroit Diesel engines must meet the following basic requirements:
□ Provide an adequate heat transfer medium.
□ Protect against cavitation damage to both cylinder liners and water pumps.
□ Provide a corrosion/erosion-resistant environment within the cooling system.
□ Prevent formation of scale or sludge deposits in the cooling system.
□ Be compatible with cooling system hose and seal materials.
□ Provide adequate freeze protection.
5.3.1 Initial Fill Coolants
Listed in Table 5-21 are the approved preferred coolants for the Series 92 engine. This section
details the proper formulation of these coolants. Once in use, these coolants should be maintained
according to procedures. Refer to section 5.3.2(Maintenance).
NOTICE:
Required specifications for water, ethylene glycol, propylene
glycol, propylene glycol, inhibitor packages, and inhibitor
concentration are included in this coolant section. To avoid
possible engine damage from inadequate or over-concentrated
coolant, this coolant section should be read thoroughly before
replacing coolant.
Coolant Fill Option Product

Ethylene Glycol and Water + Corrosion Inhibitors * DDC POWER COOL®
Fully Formulated TMC RP-329 Type A An-
Commercial Equivalent of DDC POWER COOL
tifreeze and Water
Fully Formulated TMC RP330 Type A An-
Propylene Glycol and Water + Corrosion Inhibitors
tifreeze and Water
Ethylene Glycol and Water + NOAT Inhibitors DDC POWER COOL Plus
Water Only + Corrosion Inhibitors † Water + DDC POWER COOL 3000
Water Only + NOAT Inhibitors † Water + DDC POWER COOL Plus 6000
* Preferred Coolant
† Water-only coolant systems offer no freeze protection and should not be used where ambient temperatures can fall to 32°F (0°C).
Table 5-21 Initial Fill Coolant Options

5.3.1.1 Ethylene Glycol/Water + SCA Inhibitor Propylene Glycol/Water +

SCA Inhibitor
These products are available as Fully Formulated, Phosphate-Free, Extended Service Interval
(ESI) coolants. They are commercially available from Detroit Diesel (recommended) and other
manufacturers, as either a concentrated antifreeze or as a premixed antifreeze is ready for use,
while the concentrated coolant must be mixed antifreeze is ready for use, while the concentrated
coolant must be mixed with water prior to use.
Detroit Diesel POWER COOLEngine Coolant (P/N0 23512138) is the preferred ethylene glycol
coolant. If other commercial brands of ethylene glycol are used, they must be equivalent to
POWER COOL. Detroit Diesel does not market a propylene glycol coolant. If a propylene glycol
coolant is used, it must also meet the requirements (refer to section 5.3.1.2).
Fully formulated ethylene glycol-based, low silicate antifreeze or coolant must meet TMC
RP-329 "Type A" requirements. Fully formulated propylene glycol-based antifreeze does not
require a dosage of SCA prior to initial use.
5.3.1.2 Mixing EG or PG Antifreeze and Water
If a concentrated Ethylene Glycol (EG) or Propylene Glycol (PG) antifreeze is purchased, mix
the antifreeze with water meeting the required quality standards and fill the cooling system.
Refer to section 5.3.1.6(Water Requirements). If a prediluted, fully formulated coolant is
purchased, simply fill the cooling system. For best overall performance, a coolant consisting of
50% concentration of antifreeze (50% antifreeze, 50% water) is recommended. An antifreeze
concentration over 67% (67% antifreeze, 33% water) is not recommended due to poor heat
transfer, reduced freeze protection (IEG only), and possible silicate dropout. An antifreeze
concentration below 33% (33% antifreeze, 67% water) offers too little freeze and/or corrosion
protection and is not recommended.

5.3 COOLANT
See Figure 5-3 for ethylene glycol-based coolant concentration versus freezing and boiling
temperatures.
Figure 5-3 Coolant Freezing and Boiling Temperatures vs. Inhibited

Ethylene Glycol Concentration (Sea Level)

See Figure 5-4 for propylene glycol-based coolant concentration versus freezing and boiling
temperatures.
Figure 5-4 Coolant Freezing and Boiling Temperatures vs. Inhibited

Propylene Glycol Concentration (Sea Level)

5.3 COOLANT
Always verify that the freeze point and nitrite concentration of the antifreeze/water mix are
correct by using a Power Trac 3-Way Test Strip. If chemical analysis is used, elements in the
coolant must fall within the limits listed in Table 5-22.
Element Limits
Boron 125-500 PPM
Nitrite 800-2400 PPM
Nitrate 200-750 PPM
Silicon 50-250 PPM
Phosphate 0 PPM Max.
pH 8.0-11
Table 5-22 Fully Formulated Glycol Coolant Limits with TMC RP-329, RP-330,
Chemistry Type A (50/50 Coolant/Water Mixture)
5.3.1.3 Recycled Antifreeze
Antifreeze or coolant recycled by reverse osmosis, distillation, and ion exchange, properly
re-inhibited to meet TMC RP-329 "Type A" or RP-330 "Type A" requirements has been
demonstrated to provide service equivalent to virgin antifreeze. Recycled antifreeze or coolants of
these types are preferred. Other recycled coolants, especially coolants recycled through filtration
processes, are not recommended.
5.3.1.4 Ethylene Glycol/Water + NOAT Inhibitor Propylene Glycol/Water

+ NOAT Inhibitor
Ethylene glycol and propylene glycol are also available with a Nitrite Organic Acid Technology
(NOAT) corrosion inhibitor package. These coolants require less maintenance over the useful
life of the engine. The cooling system should either be equipped with a "blank" coolant filter or
the coolant filter and piping may be omitted from the system.
NOAT fully formulated antifreezes are available as concentrated and premixed. Concentrated
antifreezes should be mixed at 50% (50% antifreeze/50% water). NOAT coolants should not be
mixed with conventional coolants. If NOAT and conventional coolants are mixed, the coolant
should be maintained as a fully formulated ESI coolant, not as a NOAT coolant.
Detroit Diesel markets a NOAT-inhibited ethylene glycol coolant, DDC POWER COOL Plus.
POWER COOL Plus contains all of the required additives. If a non-DDC NOAT antifreeze is
used, it must conform to TMC RP 338 specification. Do not add extender to new NOAT antifreeze
or coolant.

5.3.1.5 Water Only + SCA (POWER COOL 3000) Water Only + NOAT
Inhibitor (POWER COOL 6000)
In warm climates where freeze protection is not required, water only with corrosion inhibitors
is approved for use. Water-only systems need to be treated with the proper dosage of corrosion
inhibitors. Detroit Diesel-approved SCAs or NOAT corrosion inhibitors must be added to the
water to provide required corrosion and cavitation erosion protection. NOAT inhibitors such as
POWER COOL Plus 6000 are available for water-only systems. Inhibitor should be mixed at
7.5% by volume with water. Traditional SCA (POWER COOL 3000) can also be used to protect
the engine. Listed in Table 5-23 are the POWER COOL 3000 coolant concentration limits.
Element Limits
Boron 125-500 PPM
Nitrate 0-750 PPM
Silicon 50-400 PPM
Phosphate 0 PPM
pH 8-11.0
Table 5-23 POWER COOL 3000 Concentration Limits, (5% POWER COOL 3000,
95% Water)
POWER COOL 3000 SCA inhibitors should be mixed at 5% by volume with water (1 quart per
gallons of water). These additions can be made by adding liquid SCAs available for different
cooling system capacities. These filters release the proper amount of SCA at initial fill.
5.3.1.6 Water Requirements
Distilled or de-ionized water which eliminates the adverse effects of minerals in tap water is
preferred. High levels of dissolved chlorides, sulfates, magnesium, and calcium in some tap water
causes scale deposits, sludge deposits and/or corrosion. These deposits have been shown to result
in water pump failures and poor heat transfer, resulting in over-heating. If tap water is used, the
mineral content in the water must be below the maximum allowable limits listed in Table 5-24.
See Figure 5-5 for evaluating the quality of water.

5.3 COOLANT
NOTICE:
Do not add additional SCA to new, fully formulated antifreeze
or coolant. This can result in drop-out and/or the formation of
deposits.
Element Parts Per Million Grains Per Gallon

Chlorides * 40 2.5
Sulfates * 100 5.8
Total Dissolved Solids 340 20
Total Hardness - Magnesium
170 10
and Calcium
* Limits currently under review.
Table 5-24 Maximum Allowable Limits
Figure 5-5 Procedure for Evaluating Water

5.3.1.7 Coolants Not Recommended
The following coolants are not recommended in Detroit Diesel engines.

□ All antifreezes and coolants containing phosphate should be avoided. Drop-out,
overheating, and water pump seal failures can result from use of coolant or inhibitor
packages based on phosphate.
□ Automotive type coolants generally contain high levels of phosphate and silicate, offer no
liner pitting protection, and are not suitable for use in Detroit Diesel engines.
□ Methyl alcohol-based antifreeze must not be used in Detroit Diesel engines because of its
effect on the non-metallic components of the cooling system and its low boiling point.
□ Methoxy propanol-based antifreeze must not be used in Detroit Diesel engines because it
is not compatible with fluoroelastomer seals found in the cooling system.
□ Glycol-based coolants formulated for heating/ventilation/air conditioning (HVAC)
should not be used in Detroit Diesel engines. These coolants generally contain high levels
of phosphates, which can deposit on hot internal engine surfaces, reduce heat transfer,
and cause water pump seal leaks.
5.3.1.8 Additives Not Recommended
The following additives are not recommended in Detroit Diesel engines.

□ Soluble Oil Additives - are not approved for use in Detroit Diesel engine cooling systems.
A small amount of oil adversely affects heat transfer. A small amount of oil adversely
affects heat transfer. For example, a 1.25% concentration of soluble oil increases the fire
deck temperature 6%. A 2.50% concentration increased the fire deck temperature 15%.
The use of soluble oil additives may result in engine overheating and/or failure.
□ Chromate Additives- are not approved for use in Detroit Diesel engine cooling systems.
Chromate additives can form chromium hydroxide, commonly called "green slime." This,
in turn, can result in systems operated with chromate-inhibited coolant must be chemically
cleaned with POWER COOL Twin Pack cooling system cleaner/conditioner (or equivalent
sulfamic acid/sodium carbonate cleaner) and flushed.
5.3.2 Maintenance
The following are maintenance procedures.
5.3.2.1 Topping Off Coolant
Coolant level should be checked at each maintenance interval. If topping off is needed, add
coolant which is identical to the initial fill coolant.

5.3 COOLANT
5.3.2.2 Supplemental Coolant Additives For Fully Formulated Coolant
The concentrations of some inhibitors will gradually deplete during normal engine operation,
SCAs replenish the protection for cooling system components. The coolant mustbe maintained
with the proper concentration of SCA. Detroit Diesel POWER COOL maintenance products are
recommended for use in all Detroit Diesel engines.
The proper application of SCA will provide:
□ pH control.
□ Restored Inhibitor levels to prevent corrosion.
□ Water-softening to deter formation of mineral deposits.
□ Cavitation protection to protect wet sleeve cylinder liners.Check the nitrite concentration at
the regular intervals listed in Table 5-25 with a Power Trac 3-Way Test Strip. Additional
SCA must be added to the coolant when it becomes depleted, as indicated by a nitrite
concentration of 800 PPM or less. If the nitrite concentration is greater than 800 PPM, do
not add additional SCA .
Service Application Inhibitor Test Interval

On Highway Trucks and Motor Coaches 20, 000 Miles (32, 000 Kilometers)
City Transit Coaches, Pick-up and Delivery, Short 6, 000 Miles (9, 000 Kilometers) or Three Months,
Trip, and Other Applications Whichever Comes First
Industrial, Marine, Generator Set, and All
200 Hours or Yearly, Whichever Comes First
Other Applications
This does not apply to organic acid technology-based inhibitor systems.
Table 5-25 Required IEG and IPG Coolant Inhibitor Test Intervals for Traditional
Nitrite-based SCA
If the nitrite concentration level listed in Table 5-26 is above 2400 PPM, the system is
over-inhibited.
Element Limits
Boron 125-500 PPM
Nitrate 0-750 PPM
Silicon 50-400 PPM
Phosphate 0 PPM
pH 8-11.0
95% Water)
The system should be partially drained, and filled with a 50/50 nix of water and EG or PG. In
this case the EG or PG should contain no inhibitors, and should conform to ASTM D4985 or
ASTM D5223. This will dilute the over-concentrated inhibitors.

5.3.2.3 SCA Test Procedures
Nitrite concentration is an indication of the overall coolant inhibitor concentration. Coolant must
be tested for nitrite concentration at the regular intervals listed in Table 5-27.
Interval - Whichever
Coolant Action
Comes First*
Test nitrite concentration with
DDC POWER COOL 32,000 km (20, 000 Miles)
test strip.
Antifreeze/Water 3 Months or 500 Hours
Add SCA or dilute coolant as needed.
Test the freeze point and nitrite
DDC POWER COOL and 192,000 km (120,000 Miles) concentration with a Power
Need Release ® Filter (ESI) 15 Months or 3,000 Hours Trac test strip.
Replace the Need Release Filter.
Ethylene Glycol Test nitrite concentration with
32,000 km (20,000 Miles)
Antifreeze/Water test strip.
3 Months or 500 Hours
+ SCA Inhibitor Add SCA or dilute coolant as needed.
Ethylene Glycol
480,000 km (300,000 Miles) Drain and clean system,
Antifreeze/Water
2 Years or 4,000 Hours replace w/new coolant.
+ SCA Inhibitor
Propylene Glycol/Water 32,000 km (20,000 Miles)
test strip.
+ SCA Inhibitor 3 Months or 500 Hours
Propylene Glycol/Water 480,000 km (300,000 Miles) Drain and clean system,
+ SCA Inhibitor 2 Years or 4,000 Hours replace w/new coolant.
Ethylene Glycol/Water 480,000 km (300,000 Miles)
Add POWER COOL Plus Extender
+ NOAT Inhibitor 2 Years or 5,000 Hours
Ethylene Glycol/Water 960,000 km (600,000 Miles) Drain and clean system,
+ NOAT Inhibitor 4 Years or 10,000 Hours replace w/new coolant
Propylene Glycol/Water 480,000 km (300,000 Miles)
Add POWER COOL Plus Extender
+ NOAT Inhibitor 2 Years or 5,000 Hours
Propylene Glycol/Water 960,000 km (600,000 Miles) Drain and clean system,
+ NOAT Inhibitor 4 Years or 10,000 Hours replace w/new coolant
32,000 km (20,000 Miles)
Water Only + SCA inhibitor test strip.
3 Months or 500 Hours
Water Only + SCA inhibitor
2 Years or 4,000 Hours replace w/new coolant
480,000 km (300,000 Miles)
Water Only + NOAT inhibitor Add POWER COOL Plus Extender
2 Years or 5,000 Hours
Water Only + NOAT inhibitor
4 Years or 10,000 Hours replace w/new coolant
* The nitrite inhibitor test intervals shown in this table are general recommendations and do not apply in all instances.
Table 5-27 Coolant Maintenance Intervals

5.3 COOLANT
The specific inhibitor test intervals according to engine application are listed in Table 5-28.
Service Application Inhibitor Test Interval

On Highway Trucks and Motor Coaches 20, 000 Miles (32, 000 Kilometers)
City Transit Coaches, Pick-up and Delivery, Short 6, 000 Miles (9, 000 Kilometers) or Three Months,
Trip, and Other Applications Whichever Comes First
Industrial, Marine, Generator Set, and All
200 Hours or Yearly, Whichever Comes First
Other Applications
This does not apply to organic acid technology-based inhibitor systems.
Table 5-28 Required IEG and IPG Coolant Inhibitor Test Intervals for Traditional
Nitrite-based SCA
Power Trac 3-Way Test Strips (or equivalent) are recommended. Nitrite levels must be within the
ranges listed in Table 5-29 and listed in Table 5-30.
Element Limits
Boron 125-500 PPM
Nitrate 200-750 PPM
Silicon 50-250 PPM
Phosphate 0 PPM
pH 8.0-11
Table 5-29 Fully Formulated Glycol Coolant Limits with TMC RP-329, RP-330,
Chemistry Type A (50/50 Coolant/Water Mixture)
Element Limits
Boron 125-500 PPM
Nitrate 0-750 PPM
Silicon 50-400 PPM
Phosphate 0 PPM
pH 8-11.0
95% Water)
Use Detroit Diesel Power Trac 3-Way Coolant Test Strips to measure nitrite and glycol
concentrations. Refer to section 5.3.4 for "Power Cool Engine Products". Cavitation/corrosion
protection is indicated on the strip by the level of nitrite concentration. Freeze/boil-over protection
is determined by glycol concentration.
Use test strips as follows:
1. Dip the strip into coolant for one second. Remove and shake briskly to eliminate excess
fluid.

2. Immediately compare end pad (% Glycol) to the color chart in the container.
3. Sixty seconds (one minute) after dipping, compare the nitrite pad.
4. Color change of additive indicator (middle pad) indicates the presence of inhibitor that is
not approved by Detroit Diesel.
For best results make the tests while the coolant is between 10.0°-60°C (50°-140°F). Wait at least
60, but no longer than 75 seconds, before reading the nitrite level. Promptly replace and tighten
container cap after each use. Discard unused strips if they have turned light pink or tan.
NOTICE:
Failure to properly maintain coolant with SCA can result in
damage to the cooling system and its related components.
Conversely, over concentration of SCA inhibitor can result in
water pump seal leaks and poor heat transfer, leading to engine
damage. Always maintain concentrations at recommended
levels. Do not use traditional SCAs with NOAT coolant.
A factory coolant analysis program is available through authorized Detroit Diesel service outlets.
Refer to section 5.3.4 for "POWER COOL Engine Products". To verify coolant acceptability,
submit a sample for coolant analysis every three (3) years, 300,000 miles, or 5,000 operating
hours, whichever comes first.
5.3.2.4 POWER COOL Need Release Coolant Filter
Membranes in the filters release SCAs before the coolant approaches a corrosive condition,
protecting the engine from corrosion. The elements release the SCA charge as needed, as opposed
to the maintenance SCA elements, which instantaneously release the SCA charge. These
elements should be replaced after 15 months, 192,000 km (120,000 miles) or 3000 operating
hours, whichever comes first.
A program is available for extending coolant life to 960,000 km (120,000 miles) or four years,
whichever comes first. Using these filters will eliminate the need for scheduled coolant changes.
With a properly maintained system, the coolant and need-release filters will protect the engine for
960,000 km (120,000 miles) or four years, whichever comes first. Prior approval for extending
coolant life to this longer interval must be obtained from Detroit Diesel Corporation through one
of its Regional Offices. Also, annual coolant analysis under part number 23516921 is required.

5.3 COOLANT
5.3.2.5 Drop-Out
Excessive amounts of some inhibitors in the engine coolant can cause a gel or crystalline deposit
that reduces heat transfer and coolant flow. The deposit, called drop-out," takes the color of
the coolant when wet, but appears as a white or gray powder when dry. It can pick up solid
particles in the coolant and become gritty, causing excessive wear of water pump seals and other
cooling system components. The wet gel can be removed by using a non-acid (alkali) type
heavy-duty cleaner such as Detroit Diesel POWER COOL On-Line Cleaner (sodium tetraborate).
Refer to section 5.3.4 for "POWER COOL Engine Products". If the gel is allowed to dry, it
is necessary to disassemble the engine and clean it with a caustic solution or physically clean
individual components.
5.3.2.6 Coolant Extender Inhibitor Additive For "NOAT" Coolant
The inhibitors in NOAT must also be maintained, but less often than traditional SCA-type
coolants. The concentrations of some inhibitors will gradually deplete during normal engine
operation. An organic coolant analysis test is available under part number 23523399. Where
this is not used, fleet testing has determined that a NOAT coolant extender package should be
added to the coolant at 0.6% by volume at 480,000 km (300,00 miles), 2 years, or 5,000 hours,
whichever comes first. A properly maintained NOAT-inhibited coolant will last 4 years 960,000
km (6000,000 miles) or 10,000 hours, whichever comes first, at which time the coolant should
be drained. This is the only maintenance needed for the NOAT coolants. This dosage should be
added to the water-only and the glycol systems at the same interval.
NOTE:
Do not use traditional SCAs in NOAT coolant, and do not use NOAT extender in
traditional coolants.
5.3.2.7 Coolant Filter Elements
Replaceable coolant filter elements (spin-on canisters) are available in various sizes suitable
for cooling systems of varying capacity. Selection of the proper element size is vital when
pro-charging non-fully formulated coolant (i.e. water) at initial fill, and at maintenance intervals.
A fully formulated antifreeze must NOT have SCA added at initial fill. Do not use SCA-containing
filters with NOAT antifreeze or coolant.The need for maintenance elements is determined by
the results of the nitrite concentration test performed at each cooling system service interval.
Do not automatically install maintenance elements at maintenance intervals unless the nitrite
concentration level falls below 800 ppm.
5.3.3 Summary of Coolant Recommendations
The following is a summery of coolant recommendations:

HOT COOLANT
□ Always maintain the engine coolant to meet Detroit Diesel specifications.

□ Only use water that meets Detroit Diesel specifications listed in Table 5-31. Distilled,
de-mineralized (reverse osmosis) or de-ionized water is preferred.
NOTICE:
Do not add additional SCA to new, fully formulated antifreeze
or coolant. This can result in drop-out and/or the formation of
deposits.
Element Parts Per Million Grains Per Gallon

Chlorides * 40 2.5
Sulfates * 100 5.8
Total Dissolved Solids 340 20
Total Hardness - -
Magnesium and Calcium 170 10
* Limits currently under review.
Table 5-31 Maximum Allowable Limits
□ The proper dosage of inhibitors must be included in the coolant at initial fill for all Detroit
Diesel engines. This dosage id usually included in the fully formulated antifreeze used, or
it may need to be added if water alone or if less than 50% antifreeze is used. The user is
urged to refer to the full text of this section to determine the proper dosage. Mixing of
different manufacturers' technologies (brands) could cause cooling system problems.
□ Maintain the inhibitor at the prescribed concentration. Test the nitrite concentration by
using a titration kit or Detroit Diesel Power Trac 3-Way Coolant Strips. Add SCA only if
the nitrite concentration is below 800 PPM. Do not use Power Trac 3-Way Test Strips or
SCA in NOAT coolant.
□ Do not use another manufacturer's test kit to measure the SCA concentration of Detroit
Diesel Maintenance Products.
□ Pre-mix coolant makeup solutions to the proper concentration before adding to the cooling
system.
□ Do not mix NOAT and other coolants in the same engine.
□ Do not use automotive coolants or coolants with phosphates.
□ Where freeze/boil over protection is required, use only antifreeze that meets TMC RP-329
(EG) "Type A"or TMC RP-330 (PG) "Type A" specifications.

5.3 COOLANT
□ Always maintain coolant at the proper level.

□ Coolant Life:
□ A properly maintained cooling system, filled with phosphate-free coolant consisting
of a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water per TMC RP-329 "Type A" or TMC RP-330
"Type A" can be operated until overhaul. The proper maintenance involves periodic
evaluation using Power Trac 3-Way Test Strips and addition of SCA as needed, as
indicated by the strip test. To verify coolant acceptability, submit a sample for coolant
analysis every three (3) years, 480,000 km (300,000 miles), 5,000 operating hours,
whichever comes first. Submit the sample in DDC Power Trac Coolant Test Bottle.
Refer to section 5.3.4 for "POWER COOL Engine Products."
□ NOAT Coolant: A properly maintained NOAT coolant may be operated 4 years,
960,000 km (600,000 miles) or 10,000 operating hours, whichever comes first. At this
time, the system must be completely drained and refilled.
□ NOAT Coolants require the addition of an extender at 480,000 km (300,000 miles)
5,000 hours, or two years, whichever comes first. Use one pint of extender for every
20 gallons of coolant (1:60 ratio).
□ Do not use the following in Detroit Diesel engine cooling systems:
□ Soluble Oil
□ High Silicate, Automotive Type Antifreeze
□ Chromate SCA
□ Methoxy Propanol-Base Coolant
□ Methyl Alcohol-Base Coolant
□ Sealer Additives or Coolant Containing Sealer Additives
□ HVAC Coolant
□ Phosphated Coolants
5.3.4 POWER COOL Engine Products
Listed in Table 5-32 is the POWER COOL coolant type and description:
Coolant Type Part Number Description

235122138 One Gallon Jug - 6 Per Case
Concentrated 235122139 55 Gallon Drum
235122140 Bulk Delivery - 1,000 Gallon Minimum
23518918 55 Gallon Drum
Pre-Blended 50:50
Table 5-32 POWER COOL Fully Formulated IEG Coolant

23507858 Pint Bottle - 12 Per Case
23507859 Half Gallon Jug - 6 Per Case
For POWER COOL IEG Coolant
23507860 5 Gallon Pail
Table 5-33 POWER COOL 2000 Supplemental Coolant Additive


23507854 Pint Bottle - 12 Per Case
23507855 Half Gallon Jug - 6 Per Case
Table 5-34 POWER COOL 3000 Supplemental Coolant Additive

23507545 4 Ounce (1 Pint Equivalent)
Table 5-35 POWER COOL 3000 Supplemental Additive Coolant Filters

23516488 For 0-8 Gallon Systems
23516489 For 8-20 Gallon Systems
Table 5-36 POWER COOL Supplemental Additive Need Release Coolant Filters

Concentrated 23519394 55 Gallon Drum
Pre-Blended 50:50 23519398 55 Gallon Drum
Table 5-37 POWER COOL Plus Extended Life NOAT Coolant

For POWER COOL Plus 23519400 One Quart Bottle - 6 Per Case
Table 5-38 POWER COOL Plus Extender for use with POWER COOL Plus NOAT
Coolant

5.3 COOLANT

Water Only 23522127 One Gallon Jug - 6 Per Case
Table 5-39 POWER COOL Plus 6000 NOAT Inhibitor for Water-Only Systems

23507862 One - Half Gallon Jug - 6 Per Case
On-Line Cleaner 223507863 5 Gallon Pail
Twin Pack 23507867 Twin Pack -2 Per Case
Table 5-40 POWER COOL Cooling System Cleaners
Listed in Table 5-41 is the Power Trac coolant type and description:

Indicates Nitrite, Molybdate, 3-Way Coolant Test Strips
23519401
and Glycol Levels (Single Foil Packs)
23519402
and Glycol Levels (Bottle of 50)
23522774
and Glycol Levels (Bottle of 10)
Coolant Analysis Bottle
Complete Coolant Analysis 23516921
(Carton of 6)
Laboratory
Organic Coolant Analysis 23523398
Coolant Analysis
Field Test
Organic Coolant Analysis 23523399
Coolant Analysis
Table 5-41 Power Trac Coolant Testing and Analysis Products

Listed in Table 5-42 are the coolant inhibitor element size requirements:
Cooling System Liquid Number

Filter Quantity Part Number
Capacity (Gallons) of Pints
1-4 1 23507545 1/4 - 1
5-8 1 23508425 1 1/4 - 2
9-12 1 23508426 2 1/4 - 3
13-16 1 23507189 3 1/4 - 4
24-32 1 23508427 6 - 8
47-52 1 23508428 11 3/4 - 13
50-75 2 23508427 12 1/2 - 18 3/4
75-100 2 23508428 18 3/4 - 25
100-125 2 23508428 25 - 31 1/4
125-150 2 23508428 31 1/4 - 37 1/2
Not necessary if POWER COOLcoolant is used (already pro-charged).
Table 5-42 Coolant Inhibitor Element Size Requirements - Initial Fill Dosage for
IEG or IPG Plus Water Coolant Mixtures

5.3 COOLANT
Cooling System Additional SCA Number of Pints

Filter Quantity Part Number
Capacity (Gallons) Required or Quarts Needed
3 1 23507545 None 2 Pints
4 2 23507545 None 2 Pints
5 1 23508425 None 3 Pints
7 1 23508426 None 4 Pints
10 1 23507189 None 5 Pints
15 2 23508426 None 8 Pints
20 1 23508427 None 10 Pints
25 1 23508427 None 13 Pints
- 1 23507545 - -
30 1 23508427 None 15 Pints
- 1 23508426 - -
35 1 23508427 None 18 Pints
- 1 23507189 - -
40 2 23508427 None 2 1/2 Quarts
50 2 23508427 None 3 1/8 Quarts
60 1 23508428 None 3 3/4 Quarts
- 1 23508427 - -
70 2 23508428 None 4 3/8 Quarts
85 2 23508428 1 Gallon ** 5 3/8 Quarts
100 2 23508428 2 Gallons ** 6 1/4 Quarts
125 2 23508428 3 1/4 Gallons ** 7 7/8 Quarts
150 2 23508428 5 Gallons ** 9 3/8 Quarts
* * Use POWER COOL2000 and 3000 liquid SCA, or equivalent.
Table 5-43 Coolant Inhibitor Element Size Requirements - Initial Dosage for
Water-Only Systems

Cooling System
Filter Quantity Part Number Number of Pints
Capacity (Gallons)
1-4 1 23507545 1/4
5-8 1 23507545 1/4 - 1/2
9-12 1 23507545 1/2 - 3/4
13-16 1 23507545 3/4 - 1
24-32 1 23508425 1 1/2 - 2
47-52 1 23508426 3 - 3 1/4
50-75 2 23508426 3 1/4 - 4 3/4
75-100 2 23507189 4 3/4 - 6 1/4
100-125 2 23507189 6 1/4 - 7 3/4
125-150 2 23508427 7 3/4 - 9 1/4
Table 5-44 Coolant Inhibitor Element Size Requirements - Maintenance Dosage

for IEG, IPG, Precharged, and Water-Only Coolant Mixtures
Listed in Table 5-45 are the need release filters:
Cooling System
Filter Quantity Part Number Number of Pints
Capacity (Gallons)
0-8 1 23516488 N/A
8-20 1 23516489 N/A
Table 5-45 Need Release Filters

5.3 COOLANT

6 AIR INTAKE SYSTEM
Section Page
6.1 AIR INTAKE SYSTEM .............................................................................. 6-3

6.2 AIR CLEANER ........................................................................................ 6-5
6.4 AIR SHUTDOWN HOUSING ................................................................... 6-15
6.5 BLOWER .................................................................................................. 6-27
6.6 TURBOCHARGER (AIRESEARCH) ........................................................ 6-88
6.7 TURBOCHARGER INTERCOOLER ........................................................ 6-120
6.8 TURBOCHARGER AFTERCOOLER ....................................................... 6-128
6.1 AIR INTAKE SYSTEM
The blower, which sweeps out all burned gases through the exhaust valve ports, forces a charge
of air into the cylinders. This air also cools the internal engine parts, particularly the exhaust
valves. At the beginning of the compression stroke, each cylinder is filled with fresh, clean
air for efficient combustion.
The air entering the blower from the air cleaner is picked up by the blower rotor lobes and carried
to the discharge side of the blower. See Figure 6-1. The continuous discharge of fresh air from the
blower enters the cylinder block air box and sweeps through the intake ports of the cylinder liners.
1. Air Box Covers 5. Cylinder Head Assembly

2. Exhaust Manifold 6. Blower
3. Rocker Covers 7. Air Box
4. Exhaust Valves and Spring Assemblies 8. Cylinder Block
Figure 6-1 Typical Air Intake System through Blower and Engine

6.1 AIR INTAKE SYSTEM
The angle of the cylinder liner ports creates a uniform swirling motion to the intake air as it
enters the cylinders. This motion persists throughout the compression stroke and facilitates
scavenging and combustion.
The system consists of the following components:
□ Air Intake System
□ Air Cleaner
□ Air Separator
□ Air Shutdown Housing
□ Blower
□ Turbocharger
□ Turbocharger Intercooler
□ Turbocharger Aftercooler

6.2 AIR CLEANER
Clean air is essential to satisfactory engine operation and longevity. The air cleaner must be able
to remove fine and coarse materials, such as, dust, blown sand, chaff, sawdust, or lint from the air.
It must also have a reservoir capacity large enough to retain the material separated from the air,
permitting operation for a reasonable period before cleaning and service are required.
Dust and dirt entering an engine will cause rapid piston ring, cylinder liner, piston, and exhaust
valve mechanism wear, resulting in power loss and high lubricating oil consumption. Dust and
dirt allowed to build-up in the air cleaner passages will eventually restrict the air supply to the
engine and result in heavy carbon deposits on pistons and valves.
Dry paper element type air cleaners are factory installed or OEM installed on Detroit Diesel
engines.
NOTE:
Detroit Diesel does not recommend certain foam type air cleaner elements. They
produce gummy or varnish-like deposits that may affect engine operation.

6.2 AIR CLEANER
The dry type air cleaneris designed to provide highly efficient air filtration under all operating
conditions and is not affected by engine speed. See Figure 6-2. The cleaner assembly consists
of a centrifugal air cleaner in series with a replaceable paper filter element. Connecting the
dust bin to an exhaust gas aspirator will expel the dust collected in the centrifugal cleaner. The
centrifugal cleaner and replaceable filter element are held together in a steel housing. Rubber
gaskets positively seal between the two elements and the housing. The steel housing incorporates
filter fasteners, mounting flanges, and an outlet for the filtered air.
1. Dust Bin 3. Centrifugal Air Cleaner

2. Replaceable Filter Element
Figure 6-2 Dry Type Air Cleaner

The deflector vanes centrifugal motion separates the air entering the dry type air cleaner from the
dust. The dust particles are carried to the dust bin at the bottom of the cleaner by approximately
10% bleed-off air and are finally discharged into the atmosphere through an exhaust gas aspirator.
See Figure 6-3.
1. Deflector Vanes 4. Filter

2. Inlet Tube 5. Discharge Tube
3. Primary Chamber
Figure 6-3 Flow of Air Through Dry Type Air Cleaner

6.2 AIR CLEANER
The exhaust gas aspirator is connected into the engine exhaust system. See Figure 6-4. A flexible
hose carries the dust particles from the cleaner dust bin to the aspirator, where the exhaust gas
waste energy draws the dust-laden bleed-off air out and discharges it into the atmosphere with
the engine exhaust gas. Approximately 90% of the total dust load is disposed of this way. The
centrifugal air cleaner is fully effective at both high and low velocities.
1. Restriction Indicator 3. Exhaust Gas Aspirators

2. Air Cleaner 4. Air Inlet Housing
Figure 6-4 Typical Dry Type Air Cleaner Mounting
The remaining air in the cleaner reverses direction and spirals back along the discharge tubes,
centrifuging the air. The filtered air reverses direction and enters the replaceable filter element
through the center portion of the discharge tubes. The air is filtered once more as it passes through
the paper element pleats before leaving the cleaner housing outlet port.

An air cleaner restriction indicator may be attached near the outlet side of the cleaner. As the
cleaner restriction increases, suction will pull the indicator plunger upward. A brightly colored
card, attached to the plunger and visible through a small window in the indicator, will indicate the
relative air restriction amount in the cleaner. When the card is fully visible, the air cleaner should
be cleaned, and the indicator should be reset. Push the plunger all the way up, and release it.
The air cleaner restriction indicator is equipped with a safety fitting. The fitting incorporates an
internal filter in one end and does not require any service. When replacing the safety fitting,
thread the open end of the fitting in the indicator and the screen end in the air cleaner.
The Farr dry type air cleaner is specially designed to provide highly efficient air filtration under
all operating conditions. See Figure 6-5.
1. Inlet Screen 4. Plenum Chamber

2. Element Filter 5. Shutdown Assembly
3. Filter Strap
Figure 6-5 Farr Dry Type Air Cleaner

6.2 AIR CLEANER
The air cleaner assembly consists of a plenum chamber, a replaceable Dynacell air filter element,
holding straps, and an inlet screen. The air cleaner mounts on a pan type air inlet manifold
shutdown assembly.
The Donaldson dry type air cleaners are designed to provide highly efficient air filtration under
all operating conditions. See Figure 6-6 and see Figure 6-7. The cleaners have a replaceable paper
filter element that can be cleaned.
1. Baffle 3. Element Assembly

2. Cover Assembly 4. Body
Figure 6-6 Dry Type Air Cleaner

1. Dust Cup 5. Cap

2. Baffle 6. Element
3. Wing Bolt 7. Clamp
4. Body
Figure 6-7 Dry Type Air Cleaner (Heavy Duty)
The fins on the element give high speed rotation to the intake air, that separates a large portion
of the dust from the air by centrifugal motion. The plastic fins, the element, and the gasket
make up a single, replaceable element assembly.
The dust is swept through a space in the side of the baffle and collects in the lower portion of the
body or dust cup. The dust remaining in the precleaned air is removed by the element.
The dry type heavy duty air cleaner cannot be used where the atmosphere contains oil vapors, or
where fumes from the breather can be picked up by the air cleaner.
The air cleaner should be serviced as operating conditions warrant. Refer to section 13.47 for
element change intervals.

6.2 AIR CLEANER
Under no operating conditions should the maximum allowable air intake restriction be exceeded.
Refer to section 11.5. Check restriction with a water manometer. Refer to section 11.6.9 "Final
Run-In". A clogged air cleaner element will cause excessive intake restriction, reduce air supply
to the engine, and cause poor performance and higher valve and cylinder temperatures.
The recommended product life (shelf life plus service life) of Donaldson dry type air cleaner
elements is three years. Donaldson elements should be put into service no later than two years
from the manufacture date.
Farr air cleaner elements should be put into service within one year from the manufacture date.
6.2.1 Repair or Replacement of Air Cleaner
For specific repair or replacement procedures, refer to OEM guidelines. For proper maintenance
intervals, refer to section 13.47. For general removal and installation procedures, refer to section
6.2.2, and refer to section 6.2.3.
6.2.2 Removal of Air Cleaner
Remove the air cleaner as follows:

1. Disconnect the flexible aspirator hose at the dust bin of the air cleaner.
2. Loosen the wing nuts on the filter fasteners, and swing the retaining bolts away from
the cleaner.
3. Lift the cleaner away from the housing, and inspect it. Clean out any accumulated foreign
material.
4. Withdraw the paper filter element, and discard it.
6.2.3 Installation of Air Cleaner
Install the air cleaner as follows:

1. Install a new filter element. New sealing gaskets are provided with the element to ensure
a positive air seal.
2. Install the cleaner, and secure it in place with the fasteners.
3. Connect the aspirator hose to the dust bin. Ensure the connection is airtight.

6.3 AIR SEPARATOR FILTER ELEMENT
The breather system consists of an air separator assembly mounted to the inlet side of each
turbocharger along with an oil drain tube(s), check valve(s), required breather piping and
mounting hardware. See Figure 6-8.
1. Turbine Housing 3. Vacuum Limiter

2. Compressor Housing 4. Air Separator Assembly
Figure 6-8 Typical Air Separator System
The system performs three functions:

□ Collects the crankcase vapors normally emitted to atmosphere particles of oil from the
vapors. Any oil collected in this manner drains back to the crankcase, while the remaining
fumes are mixed with the turbocharger air flow. This system virtually eliminates crankcase
fumes from the engine room.
□ Filters the outside air entering the turbocharger. The oil-coated cotton filter element
removes dirt and salt particles from the incoming air.
□ Serves as an air silencer to reduce air induction noise.
□ In some marine applications an air separator is used to prevent crankcase breather fumes
from discharging into the engine room.
6.3.1 Repair or Replacement of Air Separator Filter Element
Refer to OEM for repair or replacement procedures.

NOTICE:
Failure to clean the air separator filter and the vacuum
regulator/limiter will affect the operation of the air separator
and may cause reduced engine performance and/or engine
damage caused by engine overheating.
Refer to section 13.49, preventive maintenance for change intervals and cleaning procedures.

6.4 AIR SHUTDOWN HOUSING
The air shutdown housing is mounted on the blower. A valve mounted inside the housing may
be closed to shut off the air supply and stop the engine when abnormal operating conditions
require an emergency shutdown. See Figure 6-9.
1. Latch 4. Turbocharger
2. Air Shutdown Housing 5. Housing Adaptor
3. Hose 6. Blower
Figure 6-9 Typical Air Shutdown Housing Mounting (Turbocharged Engines)

6.4.1 Repair or Replacement of Air Shutdown Housing
Figure 6-10 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Air Shutdown Housing

6.4.2 Removal of Air Shutdown Housing
Remove the air shutdown housing as follows:

1. On naturally aspirated engines, disconnect and remove the air inlet housing between the
air cleaner(s) and the air shutdown housing. See Figure 6-11.
1. Blower Screen 11. Air Shutdown Housing

2. Air Shutdown Adaptor 12. Shaft
3. Washer 13. Cam Pin Handle
4. Lock Washer 14. Cam
5. Bolt 15. Spacer
6. Seal Ring 16. Spring
7. Pin 17. Gasket
8. Pipe Plug 18. Air Shutoff Valve
9. Short Bolt 19. Latch
10. Long Bolt
Figure 6-11 Air Shutdown Housing (Non-Turbocharged Engines)

2. On turbocharged engines, loosen the hose clamp. See Figure 6-12. Slide the hose between
the air shutdown housing and the turbocharger back.
1. Latch 4. Turbocharger
2. Air Shutdown Housing 5. Housing Adaptor
3. Hose 6. Blower
Figure 6-12 Typical Air Shutdown Housing Mounting (Turbocharged Engines)
3. Disconnect the control wire from the air shutoff cam pin handle.
4. Remove the bolts and lock washers attaching the air shutdown housing to the adaptor.
5. Remove the housing and gasket.
6. Remove the bolts and washers attaching the housing adaptor to the blower.
7. Remove the adaptor and the blower screen.

6.4.3 Disassembly of Air Shutdown Housing
Disassemble the air shutdown housing as follows:

1. Remove the pin from the end of the shutdown shaft.
2. Remove the spacer from the shaft and the seal ring from the housing.
3. Remove the two pins securing the shutdown valve to the shaft.
4. Remove the bolt, lock washer, and plain washer attaching the latch to the housing.
5. Remove the latch, latch spring, and spacer.
6. Observe the position of the air shutdown valve spring and valve. See Figure 6-13.
1. Spring 2. Air Shutoff Valve
Figure 6-13 Air Shutdown Valve Spring and Valve Position
7. Withdraw the shaft from the housing to release the valve and spring.

8. Remove the valve and spring and the seal ring from the housing.
9. Remove the cam pin handle, and withdraw the cam from the shaft.
6.4.3.1 Cleaning of Air Shutdown Housing
Clean the air shutdown housing as follows:
FIRE
vapors:
1. Clean all parts, including the blower screen, with fuel oil.
EYE INJURY
2. Dry parts with compressed air.
6.4.3.2 Inspection of Air Shutdown Housing
Inspect the air shutdown housing as follows:

1. Visually Inspect the face of the shutdown valve for flatness.
NOTE:
The face of the shutdown valve must be perfectly flat to assure a tight seal when it is
in the shutdown position.
[a] If the shutdown valve is not flat, replace the shutdown valve. Refer to section 6.4.4.
[b] If the shutdown valve is flat, proceed with inspection.

2. On 8V and 16V engines, visually inspect the nylon bushing at each end of the valve
shaft for wear.
[a] If the nylon bushing is worn, replace the bushing. Refer to section 6.4.4.
[b] Reuse If the nylon bushing is not worn.
6.4.4 Assembly of Air Shutdown Housing
Assemble the air shutdown housing as follows:
NOTE:
The holes for the cam pin handle and the retaining pins must be drilled, using a
1/8 in. diameter drill, when a new service shaft or shutdown valve(s) is assembled.
Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION Shop Notes. The valve(s) must be in the
same plane within 0.76 mm (0.030 in.) when in the stop position (flush with the housing
face). Proceed as follows:
1. Place the valve(s) and spring in position in the housing, and slip the shaft in place. The
shaft must extend 17.78 mm (0.700 in.) from the side of the housing where the shutdown
latch is assembled. See Figure 6-14.

1. Blower Screen 11. Air Shutdown Housing

2. Air Shutdown Adaptor 12. Shaft
3. Washer 13. Cam Pin Handle
4. Lock Washer 14. Cam
5. Bolt 15. Spacer
6. Seal Ring 16. Spring
7. Pin 17. Gasket
8. Pipe Plug 18. Air Shutoff Valve
9. Short Bolt 19. Latch
10. Long Bolt
Figure 6-14 Air Shutdown Housing (Non-Turbocharged Engines)

USED ENGINE OIL

2. Lubricate with engine oil and install a new seal ring at each end of the shaft.
NOTE:
Ensure that the seal is seated in the housing counterbore.
3. Install the cam and cam pin handle on the shaft. Install the pin that retains the cam to
the shaft.
4. Install a washer or spacer and retaining pin at the other end of the shaft.
5. Align the notch on the cam with the notch on the latch, and lock the cam in this position.
6. Install the pins in the valve(s) to retain them to the shaft with the cam release latch set and
the valve(s) in the run position.
7. Level the valve(s) in the shutdown position.
8. Adjust the cam so the valve(s) contact the housing when the cam release latch is set.
6.4.5 Installation of Air Shutdown Housing
Install the air shutdown housing as follows:

1. Place the blower screen and gasket assembly, if used, in position. Install the shutdown
housing adaptor on the blower.
2. Tighten the 3/8 in.-16 attaching bolts to 22-27 N·m (16-20 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
The current blower screen gasket consists of wire mesh secured between two sheets
of gasket material. The former screen was imbedded in one sheet of gasket material
and was installed with the screen side toward the blower.
NOTE:
When a striker plate and gasket are used, install them between the blower screen and
gasket assembly and the air shutdown housing.
3. Place a new gasket on the adaptor. Mount the air shutdown housing on the adaptor. Secure
it with 3/8 in.-16 bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts to 22-27 N m (16-20 lb·ft)
torque.
4. On naturally aspirated engines, install the air ducts from the air cleaner to the air shutdown
housing. Use a new gasket at the housing. Ensure that all connections are airtight.

5. On turbocharged engines, slide the hose between the shutdown housing and the
turbocharger. Tighten the clamps.
6. When dual air shutdown housings have been installed, position the crossover rod between
the shutdown housings at the reset lever and the shutdown lever. See Figure 6-15.
1. Blower 8. Rod End Bearing

2. Blower Screen 9. Lock Washer
3. Pipe Plug 10. Nut
4. Bolt 11. Cross-Over Rod
5. Washer 12. Inlet Housing Adaptor
6. Gasket 13. Shut Down Housing
7. Reset Lever
Figure 6-15 Air Shutdown Housing (Rear of Dual Mounting - Turbocharged

Engines)

NOTE:
Before securing the couplings (non-turbocharged engines), close the valves in both of
the shutdown housings. Center the couplings on the housing shafts with the aid of
new roll pins. On turbocharged engines, secure the rod end bearings at the levers with
5/16 in.-24 x 1-1/8 in. bolts. Tighten the bolts to 20-26 N·m (15-19 lb·ft) torque.
7. Reset the air shutdown latch to the run position.

8. Start and run the engine at idle speed and no load. Trip the air shutdown latch.
9. If the engine does not stop, check it for air leakage between the valves and the air inlet
housing adaptor. If necessary, reposition the valves.
10. After this test has been satisfactorily performed, drill and pin the couplings
(non-turbocharged engines) to the shafts with a roll pin for each coupling, using a 1/8 in.
diameter drill.

6.5 BLOWER
The large bearing blower, designed especially for efficient diesel operation, supplies the fresh
air needed for combustion and scavenging. Its operation is similar to a gear-type oil pump.
Two hollow three-lobe rotors revolve with very close clearances in a housing bolted to the top
deck of the cylinder block, between the two banks of cylinders. To provide continuous and
uniform air displacement, the rotor lobes are made with a helical (spiral) form. See Figure

6.5 BLOWER

2. Blower End Plate Cooler 9. Bolt
3. Seal Ring (Piston Type) 10. Fuel Pump Drive Disc
4. Seal Ring Carrier 11. Fuel Pump Drive Disc Spacer
5. LH Helix Rotor Assembly 12. Blower Front End Plate
6. Blower Rotor Bearing 13. RH Helix Rotor Assembly
7. Blower Bearing Retainer 14. Blower Housing
Figure 6-16 Blower Assembly (1 of 2)

1. Lock Washer (3) 13. Shims

2. Special Flat Washer 14. RH Helix Rotor
3. Gasket Cover 15. Washer
4. Bolt (8) 16. L.H. Helix Rotor
5. Flexible Plate 17. Blower Drive Shaft
6. Spacer (30 18. Hose Clamp
7. Blower Housing 19. Cover Bolt
8. Oil Seal (2) 20. Drive Hub
9. Blower Mounting Bolt 21. Oil Passage Orifice
10. Blower Rear End Plate 22. Rear End Plate Cover
11. Blower Rotor Rear Ball Bearing 23. Blower Drive Hose Cover
12. Blower Bearing Retainer

6.5 BLOWER
Two basic types of large bearing blowers are used. The regular type blower has six mounting
holes in the top of the blower housing and has regular end plates. The Optional Turbocharger
Mounting (OTM) type blower has additional outboard holes for mounting the turbocharger
adaptor (6 and 8V blowers). One end plate includes two oil drain holes with seal rings for the
turbocharger return oil drain back. Refer to section 6.5.
The blower used on naturally aspirated engines has a 2.60:1 ratio blower-to-engine speed. The
blower used on turbocharged engines has a 2.05:1 ratio blower-to-engine speed. Certain 6V
turbocharged aftercooled, 12V turbocharged and 16V turbocharged aftercooled engines have a
1.95:1 ratio blower-to-engine speed.
Two timing gears, located on the drive end of the rotor shafts, space the rotor lobes with a close
tolerance. Since the lobes of the two rotors do not touch at any time, no lubrication is required.
Lip-type oil seals are installed in the blower end plates on the naturally aspirated engines. Metal
ring-type oil seals were formerly used in the blowers on turbocharged engines. Each ring-type
oil seal consisted of a carrier pressed on the rotor shaft, a collar pressed into the end plate, and
a seal ring contained in a carrier groove. The outside diameter of the seal ring rode against the
collar to prevent air or oil leakage.
These 3-piece seals were replaced by double lip Teflon oil seals in 1986.
A roller bearing at the front end and a double-row radial and thrust ball bearing at the gear end
supports each rotor.
The blower drive shaft drives the blower right-hand helix rotor. The blower drive shaft is splined
at one end to a drive hub attached to the blower drive gear and at the other end to a drive hub
attached to the right-hand helix blower timing gear. The mating left-hand helix timing gear
drives the left-hand helix rotor.
The basic blower parts for the 6V and 8V cylinder engines are identical and interchangeable with
the exception of the housing and rotors that differ in length. Two 6V blowers are mounted on the
top deck of the 12V cylinder engines, while two 8V blowers are mounted on the top deck of the
16 cylinder engines. The gear trains at each end of the engine drives both 12V and 16V blowers.
The two rotor gears at the rear end of the rotor time the blower rotors. Timing must be correct,
otherwise the required clearance between the rotor lobes will not be maintained. Shims used
between the gears and the bearings change rotor timing.
Normal gear wear causes a rotor-to-rotor clearance decrease between the leading edge of the
right-hand helix (drive) rotor and the trailing edge of the left-hand helix (driven) rotor. Clearance
between the opposite sides of the rotor lobes is increased correspondingly.
While adjustments can correct the rotor lobe clearance, gear backlash cannot be corrected. When
gears have worn to the point where the backlash exceeds 0.10 mm (0.004 in.), replace the gears.

A coarse spline, 29-tooth blower drive system has replaced the 48-tooth system. The shafts
are carbon-nitride hardened and the spline length of the front hub and turbo rear hub has been
increased. The new 29 and 29/48 drive shafts are drilled to accept a 0.24 in. diameter spring.
This spring is pressed into the front of the blower drive shaft and limits the axial drive shaft
movement to reduce spline wear. New blower drive supports with a 1/32 in. oil passage for
additional lubrication are being used on turbocharged engines only. The former 48-tooth and the
new 29-tooth blower drive shafts, hubs, couplings and supports, and the former and new snap
rings are not interchangeable.
Two special 29/48-tooth blower drive shaft assemblies have been released to service large bearing
blower engines having the former 48-tooth blower drive systems. The new shafts have 29 coarse
splines on the blower drive support (rear) end and 48 splines on the blower timing gear (front)
end. The new shaft assemblies are to be used only when the 48-tooth shaft and rear hub require
replacement. If the blower assembly or front hub requires replacement, or during major engine
overhaul, a complete 29-tooth blower drive system should be installed.
A blower drive coupling spring pack is used in 6V-92TA coach engines to prevent the transfer of
torque fluctuations to the blower and reduce blower drive shaft spline wear. The spring pack is
installed with the retainer groove in the cam facing the gear.
NOTE:
The former blower drive shaft bore supports installed in pre-1979 production engines
cannot be rebored to the increased diameter of the current blower drive supports. On
engines built before 1979, new blower drive supports must be used when converting
from a 48-tooth to a complete 29-tooth blower drive system.
Effective with engine serial numbers 6VF-096295 and 8VF-079550, mini-bypass blowers have
been released for 6V and 8V Federal-certified and 8V California-certified automotive engines
equipped with front blower-mounted and rear bracket-mounted turbochargers. Coach engines are
not included in this change.
The mini-bypass blower was developed to reduce the amount of engine power required to operate
the blower, increasing fuel efficiency.

6.5 BLOWER
A spring-loaded bypass relief valve is positioned in a passage in the rear blower end plate
of the turbocharged 6V and 8V automotive engines indicated. See Figure 6-18. This valve is
closed at start-up and during low RPM. light load operation. As engine speed and load increase,
turbocharger speed also increases until the turbocharger provides sufficient boost pressure for
scavenging and charging the engine cylinders.
1. Reinforcing Plate 8. Valve Assembly

2. Oil Transfer Tube Assembly 9. Clamp
3. Seal Ring 10. Hose
4. Clamp 11. Elbow 90 Degrees
5. Lock Washer 12. Blower End Plate
6. Bolt 13. Blower End Plate Cover Gasket
7. Air Inlet Housing
Figure 6-18 Typical Mini-Bypass Blower (6V-92)

At 41 kPa (12 in. Hg), the air box pressure causes the valve in the passage to open. See Figure
6-19. With the valve in the open position, incoming air is allowed to flow through the blower
lobes and through the rear end plate to the air box. The blower continues to operate with the
valve open, but requires less engine power because the pressure rise across the blower is greatly
reduced. This results in decreased brake specific fuel consumption and increased fuel economy.
Figure 6-19 Mini-Bypass Blower Air Flow Diagram

6.5 BLOWER
A small vent hose and tube through the rear blower end plate externally vents the mini-bypass
into the crankcase. A small amount of air bleeds past the valve and passes through the hose to
help keep the valve clean and functioning properly. This has no effect on crankcase pressure.
With the advent of the mini-bypass blower end plate and valve, one blower end plate cover bolt is
eliminated and a new end plate cover reinforcing plate has been released. A new composition
gasket is also being used to ensure a proper blower-to-end plate cover joint seal. An end
plate cover reinforcing plate is used on 6V and 12V mini-bypass blowers, effective with units
manufactured March, 1986.
Due to the size and location of the mini-bypass valve, new oil supply fittings are being used
between the blower and the blower drive support, and new air inlet housings have been released.
See Figure 6-20. The blower assemblies formerly used on 6V and 8V automotive engines
equipped with front blower-mounted turbochargers or rear bracket-mounted turbochargers are
serviced.
1. Adaptor 3. Seal Ring

2. Coupling Nut 4. Connector (to Blower End Plate)
Figure 6-20 Mini-Bypass Oil Transfer Assembly Components

Oil passages in the top deck of the cylinder block, leading from the main oil galleries to an oil
passage in each blower end plate pressure, lubricate the blower bearings, timing gears, governor
drive, and fuel pump drive. See Figure 6-21.
1. Overflow Oil Return Passage 4. Overflow Oil Return Passage

2. Oil Outlet-to-Blower Drive Support Bearings (From 5. Oil Inlet Passage From Cylinder Block
Rear End Plate Only)
3. Orifice 6. Oil Strainer
Figure 6-21 Blower Lubrication (Except OTM Blower)
A cup shaped oil strainer has been incorporated in the vertical oil passage at the bottom side of
each blower end plate to remove any foreign material in the lubricating oil.
The oil flows upward in the end plate and leaves through a small orifice just above the center line
of the end plate. The oil is ejected from this orifice against the timing gears at the rear and the
governor weights at the front of the blower and is splashed on the bearings. Oil collecting at the
bottom of each end plate overflows into two drain passages leading back to the crankcase via
oil passages in the cylinder block.
NOTE:
The OTM type blower does not include an oil orifice in the end plate since the drain oil
from the turbocharger lubricates the blower bearings.
The blower drive support bearings receive oil under pressure from a tube connecting the oil
passage in the rear end plate to blower drive support passages. Excess oil drains back to the
crankcase through the gear train.

6.5 BLOWER
6.5.1 Repair or Replacement of Blower

See Figure 6-22.
Figure 6-22 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Blower

6.5.2 Removal of Blower
Remove the blower as follows:
NOTE:
The mechanical engine governor components are assembled in a combination governor
housing and blower front end plate cover. The fuel pump is attached to the front end of
the blower. When removing the blower assembly from the engine, remove the governor
and fuel pump at the same time. See Figure 6-23.
1. Mounting Bolts and Lugs 6. Air Shutdown Adaptor

2. Seal and Clamp 7. Governor
3. Blower Drive Support 8. Fuel Pump
4. Lubrication Tube 9. Fuel Rod Cover
5. Breather Tube 10. Blower
Figure 6-23 Typical Blower Mounting (Single Blower)

6.5 BLOWER
1. Disconnect the air cleaner-to-air shutdown housing.

2. Disconnect the turbocharger tubing. Refer to section 6.6.2.
3. Remove the turbocharger, if used, and attaching parts. Refer to section 6.6.2.
4. Disconnect the shutdown wire assembly from the air shutoff cam pin handle.
5. Remove the air shutdown housing assembly and gasket. Refer to section 6.4.2.
6. Remove the bolts and washers securing the air shutdown housing to the blower.
7. Remove the adaptor and the blower screen (if used).
8. Loosen the oil pressure line fitting from the rear of the blower to the blower drive support.
9. Slide the fitting back on the tube.
10. Loosen the hose clamp on the blower drive support-to-blower seal.
11. Disconnect the tachometer drive cable from the adaptor at the rear of the blower.
12. Remove the flywheel housing cover at the blower drive support.
13. Remove the snap ring and withdraw the blower drive shaft from the blower.
14. Open the drain cocks and drain the engine cooling system.
15. Loosen the hose clamps and slide the hoses back on the bypass tube between the
thermostat housings. Remove the bypass tube.
16. Remove the fuel inlet and outlet lines to the fuel pump. Remove the fuel return crossover
tube between the cylinder heads.
17. Remove or disconnect the breather pipe at the top of the cylinder block.
18. Remove the front engine lifter bracket, if necessary.
19. Disconnect the throttle control rods from the governor.
20. Clean and remove the rocker cover from each cylinder head.
21. Remove the governor cover screws and lock washers. Remove the governor cover.
22. Disconnect the fuel rods from both the injector control tube levers and the governor.
Remove the fuel rods.
23. Loosen the hose clamps on the fuel rod cover tube hoses next to each cylinder head. Slide
each hose and clamp on the tube in the governor housing.
24. Remove the two bolts and washers through the top of each end plate securing the blower
to the cylinder block.
25. Remove the blower-to-block bolts and retaining washers on each side of the blower.
26. Disconnect and remove any tubing or accessories that may interfere with blower removal.
27. On 12V and 16V engines, disconnect the governor linkage. Refer to section 2.24.11.
28. Remove the governor from the engine. Either blower may be removed without disturbing
the other blower. Remove the governor to blower gasket.

FALLING COMPONENT
NOTICE:
29. Thread eyebolts in the diagonally opposite tapped holes in the top of the blower housing.
30. Lift the blower slightly, and move it forward to detach the blower from the seal at the
drive end.
31. Lift the blower up and away from the engine. Remove the blower gasket.
32. With the blower, fuel pump, and governor assembly removed from the engine, cover the
air inlet and outlet openings of the blower housing, and install the governor cover.
6.5.2.1 Cleaning of Blower
Clean the blower as follows:
FIRE
vapors:
1. Wash the exterior of the blower and governor housing with clean fuel oil.

6.5 BLOWER
EYE INJURY
2. Dry parts with compressed air.
6.5.3 Disassembly of Blower
Remove the blower rear end plate cover, governor, and fuel pump assembly from the blower
as follows:
1. Remove the remaining bolts, lock washers, and special washers securing the rear end plate
cover to the end plate. Remove the cover and gasket from the end plate. See Figure


2. Blower End Plate Cooler 9. Bolt
3. Seal Ring (Piston Type) 10. Fuel Pump Drive Disc
4. Seal Ring Carrier 11. Fuel Pump Drive Disc Spacer
5. LH Helix Rotor Assembly 12. Blower Front End Plate
6. Blower Rotor Bearing 13. RH Helix Rotor Assembly
7. Blower Bearing Retainer 14. Blower Housing

6.5 BLOWER
1. Lock Washer 13. Shims

2. Special Flat Washer 14. RH Helix Rotor
3. Cover Gasket 15. Washer
4. Bolt 16. L.H. Helix Rotor
5. Flexible Plate 17. Blower Drive Shaft
6. Spacer 18. Hose Clamp
7. Blower Housing 19. Cover Bolt
9. Blower Mounting Bolt 21. Oil Passage Orifice
10. Blower Rear End Plate 22. Rear End Plate Cover
11. Blower Rotor Rear Ball Bearing 23. Blower Drive Hose Cover
12. Blower Bearing Retainer

2. Remove the three bolts and washers or lock bolts securing the flex plates to the right-hand
blower rotor gear. Remove the drive coupling from the gear.
NOTE:
Some former engines are equipped with thin hub spacers. They are not readily
accessible, being they are behind the flex plate. When working on the blower hub
assemblies, remove the flex plate attaching bolts carefully to avoid dropping the thin hub
spacers into the gear train. If spacers are inadvertently dropped into the gear train,
remove the engine flywheel housing and/or oil pan to retrieve them.
3. Observe the location of the two copper washers, one plain washer, and eight lock washers
on the governor-to-blower bolts before removing them.
4. Remove the ten bolts and washers (two inside and eight outside) securing the governor
and fuel pump assembly to the blower.
5. Tap the sides of the governor housing slightly with a plastic hammer to loosen the
governor from the blower.
6. Pull the governor and fuel pump assembly from the dowels in the blower end plate.
7. Remove the fuel pump drive coupling fork and the governor housing gasket.
Disassemble the blower as follows:
1. Place a clean folded cloth between the rotors, and remove the lock bolts and thick washers
securing the timing gears to the blower rotor shaft.

6.5 BLOWER
2. Remove the timing gears with pullers J 6270-31 (from set J 6270-G). See Figure 6-26.
Both gears must be pulled at the same time as follows:
1. Blower Assembly 2. Blower Drive Gears
Figure 6-26 Removing Blower Gears with Tool J 6270-31 (from Set J 6270-G)
[a] Back out the center screws of both pullers.

[b] Place the flanges against the gear faces, aligning the flange holes with the tapped
holes in the gears.
[c] Secure the pullers to the gears with 5/16 in.-24 x 1-1/2 in. bolts (two bolts on the
LH helix gear and three bolts on the RH helix gear).
[d] Turn the two puller screws uniformly clockwise and withdraw the gears from the
rotor shafts.
3. After the gears have been removed, remove the shims from the rotor shafts, and note the
number and thickness of shims on each rotor shaft to ensure identical replacement when
reassembling the blower.
4. Remove the self-locking screws securing the rotor shaft bearing retainers to the front
and rear end plates. Remove the retainers.
Remove the blower rear end plate and ball bearing assembly from the blower housing and rotors
with the two pullers J 6270-31 (from set J 6270-G) as follows:
1. Remove the two fillister head screws securing the rear end plate to the blower housing.
2. Loosen the two fillister head screws securing the front end plate to the housing
approximately three turns.

3. Back out the puller center screws far enough to permit each puller flange to lay flat on
the end plate face.
NOTICE:
Ensure that the 1/4 in.-20 bolts are threaded all the way into the
tapped holes in the end plate to provide maximum anchorage for
the pullers and to eliminate possible damage to the end plate.
4. Align the holes in each puller flange with the tapped holes in the end plate. Secure the
pullers to the end plate with six 1/4 in.-20 x 1-1/4 in. or longer bolts.
5. Turn the two puller screws uniformly clockwise, and withdraw the end plate and bearings
from the blower housing and rotors. See Figure 6-27.
1. Blower Assembly 2. Rotors
Figure 6-27 Removing Blower End Plate and Bearings From Housing and
Rotors with Tool J 6270-31 (from Set J 6270-G)
Remove the blower front end plate and roller bearing assembly from the blower housing and
rotors as follows:
1. Remove the fuel pump drive bolt, washer, and spacer.
2. Remove the two fillister head screws securing the front end plate to the blower housing.
3. Remove the front end plate and roller bearings from the housing and rotors.
4. Withdraw the blower rotors from the housing.
Remove the bearings and lip-type oil seals from the blower end plates as follows:

6.5 BLOWER
1. Support the outer face of the end plate on wood blocks on an arbor press bed.
2. Place the long end of the oil seal remover J 6270-3 (from set J 6270-G) and installer
J 6270-4 (from set J 6270-G) through the oil seal and into the bearing, with the opposite
end of the remover under the press ram. See Figure 6-28.
1. Blower End Plate
Figure 6-28 Removing Oil Seal (or Oil Seal Ring Collar) and Bearing from End
Plate with Tool J 6270-3 (from Set J 6270-G)
3. Press the bearing and oil seal out of the end plate. Discard the oil seal.
4. Remove the remaining bearings and oil seals from the end plates. Support the outer face
of the end plate on wood blocks on an arbor press bed.
5. Place the long end of the oil seal remover J 6270-3 and installer J 6270-4 (from set
J 6270-G), through the oil seal and into the bearing, with the opposite end of the remover
under the press ram.
6. Press the bearing and oil seal out of the end plate. Discard the oil seal.
Remove the bearings and ring-type oil seals, carriers, roller bearing inner races, and collars from
the turbocharged engine blower rotor shafts and end plates as follows:
1. Clamp one rotor lobe in a soft jawed bench vise. Tighten the vise just enough to hold
the rotor stationary.

NOTICE:
To avoid breakage or distortion, do not spread or twist the ring
any more than necessary to remove it.
2. Remove the oil seal ring from the seal ring carrier on each blower rotor shaft with a
pair of snap ring pliers. See Figure 6-29.
1. Rotor 3. Oil Seal Ring

2. Seal Ring Carrier
Figure 6-29 Removing Oil Seal Ring from Carrier (Turbocharged Engine
Blowers)

6.5 BLOWER
3. Place the seal ring carrier remover adaptor J 6270-2 (from set J 6270-G) over the carrier.
Ensure that the adaptor is seated in the carrier groove. See Figure 6-30.
1. Rotor
Figure 6-30 Removing Oil Seal Ring Carrier from Blower Rotor Shaft
(Turbocharged Engine Blowers)
4. Back out puller J 6270-31 (from set J 6270-G) center screw far enough to permit the puller
flange to lay flat against the adaptor J 6270-2.
5. Place the puller over the end of the rotor shaft and against the adaptor on the oil seal ring
carrier. Align the holes in the puller flange with the tapped holes in the adaptor.
6. Secure the puller to the adaptor with two bolts.
7. Turn the puller screw clockwise, and pull the oil seal ring carrier and roller bearing inner
race (front end of blower rotors only) from the rotor shaft.
8. Remove the remaining oil seal ring carriers from the rotor shafts.
9. Support the outer face of the blower end plate on wood blocks on an arbor press bed.
10. Place the long end of the oil seal remover and installer J 6270-3 (from set J 6270-G)
through the oil seal ring collar and into the bearing, with the opposite end of the remover
under the press ram.
11. Press the bearing and oil seal ring collar out of the end plate.
12. Remove the remaining bearings and oil seal ring collars from the end plates.
The oil seal ring collar can be removed from the blower end plate with the bearing in place
as follows:

1. Insert J 6270-14 bushing remover (from set J 6270-G), with the O-ring in the collar and
the lip of the remover on the inside edge of the collar.
2. Support the inner face of the blower end plate on wood blocks.
3. Insert the small end of the driver handle J 6270-17 (from set J 6270-G) through the bearing
and into the collar remover, spreading it tightly in the collar.
4. Press or tap on the driver handle to remove the collar.
6.5.3.1 Cleaning of Blower and Parts
Clean the blower and parts as follows:
FIRE
vapors:
1. Wash blower parts in clean fuel oil.
EYE INJURY

3. Clean the oil strainer in the vertical oil passage at the bottom side of each blower end plate.

6.5 BLOWER
EYE INJURY
4. Blow out all oil passages with compressed air.
6.5.3.2 Inspection of Blower
Inspect the blower as follows:
PERSONAL INJURY
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from contact with rotating parts when an
engine is operating with the air inlet piping removed, install
an air inlet screen shield over the turbocharger air inlet. The
shield prevents contact with rotating parts.
The blower may be inspected without being removed from the engine. However, the air separator
and adaptor, or the air inlet housing, air shutdown housing, and adaptor must first be removed.
□ Air separator and adaptor removal, refer to section 13.49.
□ Air inlet housing removal, refer to section 6.4.2.
□ Air shutdown housing and adaptor removal, refer to section 6.4.2.
NOTE:
The turbocharger and adaptor must be removed on engines equipped with the OTM
blower. Refer to section 6.6.2. To correct any problems, the blower must be removed
from the engine. Refer to section 6.5.2.
1. Inspect the rotor for scratches, scores, and burrs.

[a] If excessively scratched or scored, replace the rotors. Refer to section 6.5.4.

[b] If burrs cause interference between the rotors or between the rotors and the housing,
remove the blower from the engine, and "dress" the parts to eliminate interference.
[c] If no scratches, scores, or burrs are present, continue with inspection.
2. Inspect the oil seals for oil on the blower rotors and inside housing surface.
[a] Run the engine at low speed and shine a light into the rotor compartment at the end
plates and the oil seals.
[b] If a thin film of oil radiates away from the seals toward the blower inlet, the seals
are leaking. Replace the seals. Refer to section 6.5.4.
[c] If no leaks are detected, continue inspection.
3. Inspect the rotor lobe crowns, mating rotor roots, rotors, end plates, and housing for
scoring.
[a] If scored, tighten rotor shafts and replace damaged bearings. Refer to section 6.5.4.
[b] If scoring is not detected, continue inspection.
4. Inspect for worn or damaged bearings, this will cause rubbing between mating rotor lobes
at some point or perhaps allow the rotor assemblies to rub the blower housing end plate.
[a] If rubbing is detected, replace the rotor lobe and damaged bearings. Refer to section
6.5.4.
[b] If scoring is not detected, continue inspection.
5. Inspect the blower rotor lobes, especially the sealing ribs, for burrs or scoring. Rotors
must be smooth for satisfactory blower operation.
[a] If the rotors are excessively scored, replace them. Refer to section 6.5.4.
[b] If the rotors are slightly scored or burred, clean with emery cloth, and continue
inspection.
6. Inspect the blower inlet screen for accumulated dirt or broken wires. Refer to section
13.35.

6.5 BLOWER
FIRE
vapors:
[a] Thoroughly wash the screen in fuel oil, and clean with a stiff brush until it is free
of all dirt.
[b] If broken wires are found in the blower screen, replace the screen. Refer to section
6.5.4.
[c] If no damage is detected, continue inspection.
7. Check the lubricating oil connection between the blower and the blower drive support for
excessive oil leaks.
[a] If oil leaks exist, tighten or replace the fittings or seal rings. Refer to section 6.5.4.
[b] If no oil leaks are detected, continue inspection.
NOTE:
To correct any of the conditions cited in step 1 through step 7, the blower must be
removed from the engine and either repaired or replaced.
8. Check the rubber seal ring used between the blower end plate cover and the blower drive
support for oil leaks.
[a] If oil leaks exist, retighten the seal clamp or replace the seal ring. Refer to section
6.5.4.
[b] If no oil leaks exist, continue inspection.
NOTE:
Some engines use a seal ring (18.796 mm or 0.740 in. wide) that incorporates two
raised edges, which provide a groove to retain the clamp. To replace a seal ring without
removing the blower, refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.

USED ENGINE OIL

9. Lubricate each ball bearing with light engine oil to examine the bearings for corrosion
or pitting. While keeping the bearing inner race from turning, revolve the outer race
slowly by hand, and check for rough spots.
NOTE:
The double-row ball bearings are preloaded and have no end play. A new bearing will
have considerable resistance when revolved by hand.
[a] If the bearing does not turn freely, it must be replaced. Refer to section 6.5.4.
[b] If the bearing turns freely, continue inspection.
10. Check the oil seal rings, carriers, and collars for wear or scoring.
[a] If excessively scored or worn, replace the oil seal rings, carriers, and collars.
NOTE:
The current oil seal rings are chrome flashed, and the carriers are liquid nitrided. When
oil seal ring or carrier replacement is necessary, both parts must be replaced together.
11. Examine the rotor shaft serrations for wear, burrs, or peening. Inspect the bearing and oil
seal contact shaft surfaces for wear or scoring.
[a] If worn, burred, peened, or scored, replace the rotor shaft. Refer to section 6.5.4.
[b] If not burred, peened, or scored, continue inspection.
12. Inspect the inside face of each end plate for smoothness, flatness, and freedom from
scoring and burrs.
NOTICE:
Do not remove metal at the joint face between the end plates
and the housing. Air or oil leaks could develop after assembly.
[a] If the finished face is slightly scored or burred, clean with emery cloth.
[b] If the finished face is warped, replace it. Refer to section 6.5.4.
[c] If neither scored, burred, or warped, continue inspection.
13. Examine the blower timing gear serrations for wear or peening.
[a] If worn or peened, replace the blower timing gear. Refer to section 6.5.4.

6.5 BLOWER
[b] If neither worn nor peened, continue inspection.

14. Check the blower timing gear teeth for wear, chipping, or other damage.
[a] If the gears are worn so that backlash between the gears exceeds 0.10 mm (0.004 in.),
or damaged sufficiently to require replacement, both gears must be replaced as a set.
[b] If no wear, chipping, or damage are detected, continue inspection.
15. Inspect the blower drive shaft serrations for wear or peening.
[a] If excessively worn or peened, replace the drive shaft. Refer to section 6.5.4.
[b] If neither worn nor peened, continue inspection.
16. Inspect the drive shaft for bending, cracks, or wear.
[a] If bent, cracked, or worn, replace the shaft. Refer to section 6.5.4.
[b] If not bent, cracked, or worn, continue inspection.
NOTE:
Before installing a 29/48-tooth blower drive shaft, check the splines on the front hub for
wear. During engine operation, the splines on the front hub and the front hub end of the
blower drive shaft normally wear at a slower rate than the rear hub splines. Before
replacing the drive shaft and rear hub, install the new shaft and rotate it back and forth to
determine the amount of front hub spline wear. If perceptible lash (wear) is felt, the front
hub is badly worn, and a complete 29-tooth blower drive system should be installed.
17. Inspect the corresponding splines on the used blower drive shaft to determine the amount
of front hub wear.
[a] If the shaft spline is worn, the front hub spline is worn. In this event the 48-tooth
system should be replaced immediately with the 29-tooth system. Refer to section
6.5.4.
NOTE:
Minimal shaft spline wear indicates minimal hub spline wear, and the new 29-48-tooth
drive shaft should provide satisfactory service until engine overhaul and complete
system replacement.
[b] If the shaft spline is not worn, continue inspection.

18. Inspect the inside surface of the blower housing for burrs or scoring. The inside surface
must be smooth for efficient blower operation.
[a] If excessively scored or burred, replace the housing. Refer to section 6.5.4.
[b] If the inside surface of the housing is slightly scored or burred, clean with emery cloth.
19. Check the finished ends of the blower housing for flatness or burrs. The end plates must
rest flat against the blower housing.
[a] If warped or burred, replace the housing. Refer to section 6.5.4.

[b] If neither warped nor burred, reuse the blower housing.
6.5.4 Assembly of Blower
Several precautions are given below to assure proper assembly of the rotors and gears for correct
blower timing:
1. The driving blower rotor lobes and the gear teeth form a right-hand helix, while the driven
rotor lobes and gear teeth form a left-hand helix. A rotor with right-hand helix lobes must
be used with a gear having right-hand helix teeth and vice versa.
2. One serration is omitted on each blower rotor shaft drive end, and a corresponding serration
is omitted in each gear. Assemble the gears on the rotor shafts with the serrations aligned.
3. The rotors must be assembled in the blower housing with the omitted serrations in the
rotor shafts aligned. See Figure 6-31.
1. LH Helix Rotor 5. RH Helix Rotor

2. Trailing Side 6. Trailing Side
3. Air Inlet Side 7. Omitted Serrations
4. Leading Side (2)
Figure 6-31 Diagram Showing Proper Location of Shims for Correct Rotor
Lobe Clearance
Install new lip type oil seals as follows:

1. Support the blower end plate, finished surface facing up, on wood blocks on an arbor
press bed.

6.5 BLOWER
2. Start the oil seal straight into the bore in the end plate with the sealing edge facing down
(toward the bearing bore).
NOTE:
If oversized oil seals are being used in the blower end plates, use installer J 6270-28
(from set J 6270-G) to install the oversized oil seal spacers on the rotor shafts.
3. Place the short end of oil seal remover J 6270-3 and installer J 6270-4 (from set J 6270-G)
in the oil seal, and press the oil seal into the end plate until the shoulder on the installer
contacts the end plate. See Figure 6-32.
1. Blower End Plate
Figure 6-32 Installing Oil Seal (or Oil Seal Ring Collar) in End Plate using
Tool J 6270-4 (from Set J 6270-G)
NOTE:
A step under the installer shoulder will position the oil seal approximately 0.13 mm
(0.005 in.) below the finished face of the end plate. This is within the 0.0508–0.2032
mm (0.002–0.008 in.) specified.
4. Install the remaining oil seals in the end plates.

Install double-lip Teflon oil seals as follows:

1. Press the oversized oil seal spacer onto the rotor shaft with installer J 35787-A (from set
J 6270-G) until either the shoulder of the tool or the spacer contacts the rotor.
NOTE:
Do not lubricate the seals, spacers, or blower rotor shafts prior to seal installation. Teflon
lip seals must be installed dry. This allows the Teflon to transfer to the spacer surface
for proper sealing.
2. Support the blower end plate, finished surface up, on wood blocks on an arbor press bed.
3. With the part number on the seal facing the rotor, start the oil seal straight into the end
plate bore.
NOTE:
Double-lip Teflon seals are packaged around a special plastic sleeve that should not be
removed prior to seal installation. The sleeve protects the seal lips during shipment and
acts as a seal lip expander during blower assembly.
4. Using installer J 35787-A (from set J 6270-G), press the double-lip oil seal below the end
plate surface until the installer shoulder contacts the end plate.
5. Install the remaining oil seals in the end plates.
Install the ring-type oil seal carriers, collars, seal rings, and roller bearing inner races (front end of
blower rotors only) on the rotor shafts and in the end plates as follows:

6.5 BLOWER
1. Support one rotor assembly on wood blocks on an arbor press bed. See Figure 6-33.
1. Front End Plate 2. Right-Hand Helix Rotor
Figure 6-33 Installing Blower Rotor in Front End Plate (V-92T Blowers)
USED ENGINE OIL

2. Lubricate the inside diameter of the oil seal ring carrier with engine oil. Start the carrier
straight over the end of the rotor shaft with the chamfered inside diameter end facing
the rotor.

3. Place the oil seal ring carrier installer J 6270-2 (from set J 6270-G) over the end of the
rotor shaft and against the carrier, with the rotor shaft end against the carrier and the
installer end under the ram of the press. Press the carrier tightly against the rotor.
4. Install the remaining oil seal ring carriers on the rotor shafts.
NOTICE:
To avoid breaking the oil seal rings, do not spread them any more
than necessary to place them over the end of the carrier. Do
not twist the rings. Possible distortion may result in loss of side
contact area.
5. Install an oil seal ring in the carrier ring groove with a pair of snap ring pliers.
6. Support one of the blower end plates, inner face up, on wood blocks on an arbor press bed.
USED ENGINE OIL

7. Lubricate the outside diameter of a seal ring collar with engine oil. Start the chamfered
outside diameter collar end straight into the end plate bore.
8. Place the oil seal ring collar installer J 6270-3 (from set J 6270-G) on top of the seal ring
collar and under the press ram.
9. Press the collar into the end plate until the shoulder on the installer contacts the end plate.
NOTE:
A step under the shoulder of the installer will position the collar approximately 0.127 mm
(0.005 in.) below the finished face of the end plate. This is within the 0.0508–0.2032
mm (0.002–0.008 in.) specified.
10. Install the remaining oil seal ring collars in the end plates.
Assemble rotors and end plates on blowers with lip type oil seals as follows:
NOTE:
The top of the end plate is readily identified by the two bolt holes and one oil hole. The
bottom side of the end plate has two bolt holes and three oil holes. The front end plate is
thinner than the rear end plate.
NOTE:
The horizontal oil passage in the top front face of the front end plate that intersects
the vertical oil passage is plugged. Do not install this end plate on the rear end of the
blower housing.

6.5 BLOWER
Attach the front end plate to the blower housing as follows:

1. If removed, press a new oil strainer into the vertical oil passage at the bottom side of the
end plate 3.81 mm (0.150 in.) below the bottom surface. Install the pipe plug in the
vertical oil passage at the top of the end plate.
2. Check the dowel pins. The dowel pins must project 8.128 mm (0.320 in.) from the flat
inner front end plate face to assure proper end plate alignment with the housing.
3. If removed, press a new bolt guide sleeve (bushing) into one bolt hole in the bottom
side of the end plate.
4. Install the sleeve, with the three notches on the sleeve, to the bottom side of the end plate
and the center notch to the outside of the end plate.
NOTE:
When installed, the inside sleeve flats will be parallel to the center line of the housing.
The notch should be flush to 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) below the end plate surface.
5. Place the blower housing on a bench with the top side of the housing up and the front end
of the housing facing the outside of the bench.
NOTICE:
A blower end plate sealant kit is required (available from an
authorized Detroit Diesel distributor) when assembling blower
end plates. Failure to use the kit may result in air leakage
between the blower housing and blower housing end plates,
and may affect engine performance.
6. Apply a thin, even coating of Teflon sealant over the entire end surfaces for both ends of
the blower housing. Wipe off any excess sealant from housing bores.
NOTE:
Ensure that no sealant protrudes into the housing. The sealant must not prevent the end
plate from laying flat against the housing.
NOTE:
Allow sealant to dry before assembling end plates.
7. Position the end plate in front of the blower housing, with the top side of the end plate
facing up. Start the dowel pins straight into the dowel pin holes in the housing.
8. Push or tap the end plate against the housing.
NOTE:
No gaskets are used between the end plates and the housing. The mating surfaces
should be perfectly flat and smooth.

9. Insert the two fillister head screws through the end plate, and thread them into the
housing. Tighten the screws to 7-14 N·m (5-10 lb·ft) torque. Do not use lock washers on
these screws.
See Figure 6-34. Install the blower rotors in the blower housing and end plate as follows:
1. Blower Housing 2. Front End Plate
Figure 6-34 Assembling Blower Rotors in Housing and Front End Plate with
Oil Seal Pilots using Tool J 6270-5 (from Set J 6270-G)
1. Reverse the blower housing on the bench (open end of housing facing the outside of
the bench).
2. Mesh the rotors horizontally and facing to the left (viewed from the gear end, with the
omitted serrations in the rotor shafts).
NOTE:
The right-hand helix rotor is marked "GEAR END" on one end. The gear end of the
left-hand rotor is the end with the serrated shaft

6.5 BLOWER
3. Install an oil seal pilot J 6270-5 (from set J 6270-G) over the opposite end of each rotor
shaft.
NOTE:
When oversized oil seals are used in the blower end plate, use oil seal spacer installer
J 6270-28 for the oil seal pilots in place of J 6270-5 (from set J 6270-G).
NOTE:
When double-lip Teflon oil seals are installed, use oil seal pilot J 6270-5 (from set
J 6270-G) over each rotor shaft. Insert the plastic sleeves that came with the seals,
tapered edges facing outboard. When end plates are lowered into position over the
shafts, the ends of the spacers will push out the plastic sleeves, permitting seals to seat
squarely on the spacers without damage.
4. Insert the rotors straight into the housing and through the front blower end plate.
5. Remove the oil seal pilots from the rotor shafts.
Install the blower rear end plate as follows:
1. If removed, press a new oil strainer into the vertical oil passage at the bottom side of the
end plate 3.81 mm (0.150 in.) below the bottom surface.
2. Install the pipe plug in the vertical oil passage at the top of the end plate.
4. Install the sleeve, with the three notches on the sleeve to the bottom side of the end plate
and the center notch to the outside of the end plate, flush to 1.27 mm (0.05 in.) below the
surface of the end plate.
NOTE:
When installed, the inside flats of the sleeve will be parallel to the center line of the
housing.
5. Install an oil seal pilot J 6270-5 (from set J 6270-G) over the serrated end of each rotor
shaft.
NOTE:
When oversized oil seals are used in the blower end plate, use oil seal spacer installers
J 6270-28 for the oil seal pilots in place of J 6270-5 (from set J 6270-G).
NOTE:
When double-lip Teflon oil seals are installed, use oil seal pilot J 6270-5 (from set
J 6270-G) over each rotor shaft. Reinsert the plastic sleeves that came with the seals,
tapered edges facing outboard. When end plates are lowered into position over the
shafts, the ends of the spacers will push out the plastic sleeves, permitting seals to seat
squarely on the spacers without damage.

inner face of the rear end plate to assure proper end plate alignment with the housing.
7. Slide the end plate straight over the oil seal pilots.
8. Start the dowel pins straight into the dowel pin holes in the housing. Push or tap the end
plate against the housing.
9. Insert the two fillister head screws through the end plate, and thread them into the
housing. Tighten the screws to 7-14 N m (5-10 lb ft) torque. Do not use lock washers on
these screws.
10. Remove the oil seal pilots from the rotor shafts.
NOTICE:
Excessive housing protrusion could distort the housing when the
end plate to cylinder block bolts are tightened and cause rotor to
housing interference.
11. Check the relationship of the blower end plates to the housing at the cylinder block side
of the blower assembly. The protrusion of the housing with respect to the end plates
should not be more than 0.0127 mm (0.0005 in.) above to 0.1651 mm (0.0065 in.) below
the end plate.
Assemble the rotors and end plates on blowers with ring-type oil seals (regular and OTM
blowers) as follows:
Install the blower rotors in the blower front end plate as follows:
inner face of the front end plate to assure end plate alignment with the housing.
3. Install the sleeve, with the three notches on the sleeve to the bottom side of the end plate
and the center notch to the outside of the end plate, flush to 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) below the
surface of the end plate.
NOTE:

6.5 BLOWER
4. Support the front end plate on two wood blocks approximately 4 in. high, with the inner
face of the end plate facing up and the TOP side of the plate facing your right. See Figure
6-35.
1. Front End Plate 2. Right-Hand Helix Rotor
Figure 6-35 Installing Blower Rotor in Front End Plate (V-92T Blowers)
USED ENGINE OIL

5. Lubricate the oil seal ring in the carrier on the front end of the right-hand helix rotor
shaft with engine oil.

6. Hold the right-hand helix rotor vertically (gear end up). Position the seal ring in the
carrier so the ring protrudes evenly from its groove on each side and the gap is facing
away from you.
7. With the omitted shaft spline serration facing toward the top side of the end plate, start the
end of the rotor shaft into the right-hand end plate shaft opening so that the gap portion of
the seal ring is started into the ring collar.
8. Continue to lower the rotor, and apply pressure to the seal ring approximately 180 degrees
from the gap, while gently working the seal ring into the collar until the rotor contacts
the end plate.
USED ENGINE OIL

9. Lubricate the oil seal ring in the carrier on the front end of the left-hand helix rotor shaft
with engine oil.
10. Hold the left-hand helix rotor vertically (gear end up). Position the seal ring in the carrier
so the ring protrudes evenly from its groove on each side and the gap is facing away
from you.
11. Mesh the lobes or the rotors, and face the omitted spline serration face toward the top
end of the rotor shaft into the left-hand end plate shaft opening so that the gap portion of
the end plate.
USED ENGINE OIL

14. Lubricate the oil seal ring in the carrier on the front end of the right-hand helix rotor
shaft with engine oil.
15. Hold the right-hand helix rotor vertically (gear end up). Position the seal ring in the
carrier so the ring protrudes evenly from its groove on each side and the gap is facing
away from you.

6.5 BLOWER
16. Mesh the rotors lobes and face the omitted spline serration face toward the top side of
the end plate.
end of the rotor shaft into the right-hand end plate shaft opening so that the gap portion of
the end plate.
Install the blower housing over the rotors, and attach it to the front end plate as follows:
NOTE:
When assembling an OTM 6V blower, determine what end is the front of the housing.
For front mounted OTM vehicle engines, the housing must be installed with the stamped
triangle end toward the front of the engine. With the rear mounted OTM vehicles engines,
the housing is installed with the stamped triangle end toward the rear. On the 8V OTM
vehicle engines, either end of the housing can face toward the front of the engine.
NOTICE:
A blower end plate sealant kit (available from an authorized
Detroit Diesel distributor) is required when assembling blower
end plates. Failure to use the kit may result in air leakage
between the blower housing and the blower housing end plates,
and may affect engine performance.
1. Apply a thin, even coating of Teflon sealant over the entire end surfaces of both ends of
the blower housing. Wipe off excess sealant from housing bores.
2. Position the blower housing over the top of the rotors so the bottom face of the housing
faces the bottom side of the front end plate.
NOTE:
Allow sealant to dry to touch before assembling end plates.
3. Lower the housing over the rotors until it contacts the dowel pins in the end plate.
4. Align the dowel pin holes in the housing with the dowel pins in the end plate.
5. Push the housing tightly against the end plate. If necessary, tap the housing lightly with a
plastic hammer.
NOTE:
Caution must be used so that no sealant protrudes into the housing. The sealant must
not prevent the end plate from laying flat against the housing or blower.
NOTE:
No gaskets are used between the end plates and the housing. Therefore, the mating
surfaces should be perfectly flat and smooth.

6. Insert the two fillister head screws through the front end plate, and thread them into the
these screws.
Install the blower rear end plate on the rotor shafts and housing as follows:
inner face of the rear end plate to assure proper end plate alignment with the housing.
3. Install the sleeve with the three notches to the bottom side of the end plate, and the center
notch to the outside of the end plate, flush to 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) below the surface of
the end plate.
NOTE:
USED ENGINE OIL

4. Lubricate the oil seal rings in the carriers on the rotor shaft with engine oil.
5. Position the oil seal rings in the carriers so the ring protrudes from its groove equally
on each side.
6. Position the rear end plate over the top of the rotor shafts, with the end plate inner face
facing the rotors, and the TOP of the end plate facing the top of the blower housing.

6.5 BLOWER
7. Lower the end plate straight over the rotor shafts until the dowel pins in the end plate
contact the blower housing. See Figure 6-36.
1. Blower Housing Assembly 3. Cast Triangle on OTM 6V Blower

2. Rotors 4. Rear End Plate
Figure 6-36 Installing Rear End Plate on Blower Rotors and Housing
8. Carefully work the dowel pins into the dowel pin holes in the housing and the oil seal
rings into the collars.
9. Push the end plate tightly against the housing. If necessary, tap the end plate lightly
with a plastic hammer.
NOTE:
The housing protrusion should not be more than 0.0127 mm (0.0005 in.) above to
0.1651 mm (0.0065 in.) below the end plate. Excessive protrusion could distort the

housing when the end plate to cylinder block bolts are tightened and cause rotor to
housing interference.
10. Insert the two fillister head screws through the rear end plate, and thread them into the
these screws.
With the blower housing, rotors, and end plates still supported in a vertical position on the two
wood blocks, install the ball bearings on the rotor shafts and in the rear end plate as follows:
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lubricate one of the ball bearings with light engine oil. Start the bearing, numbered
end up, straight on one of the rotor shafts.

6.5 BLOWER
2. Place installer J 6270-13 (from set J 6270-G) on top of the bearing. Tap the bearing
straight on the shaft and into the rear end plate. See Figure 6-37.
1. Blower Housing Assembly 2. Rear End Plate
Figure 6-37 Installing Ball Bearings on Rotor Shaft and in Rear End Plate
with Tool J 6270-13 (from Set J 6270-G)
3. Install the second ball bearing on the remaining rotor shaft.

4. Place the bearing retainers on top of the bearings and the end plate.
5. Install the self-locking screws. Tighten the screws to 9-12 N·m (7-9 lb·ft) torque.
Install the roller bearing inner races on the rotor shafts at the front end plate as follows:

1. Reverse the position of the blower housing on the two wood blocks. See Figure 6-38.
1. Blower Housing Assembly 2. Front End Plate
Figure 6-38 Installing Roller Bearings on Rotor Shafts and in Front End Plate
with Tool J 6270-1 (from Set J 6270-G)
2. Position the roller bearing inner race over the front end of the rotor shaft. Press the race
on the shaft with tool J 6270-13 (from set J 6270-G) until the bearing contacts the shaft
shoulder.
3. Install the bearing inner race on the front end of the other rotor.
Install the roller bearing outer race assemblies in the front end plate as follows:

6.5 BLOWER
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lubricate one roller bearing with light engine oil. Start the bearing, shoulder side up, over
the rotor shaft and bearing inner race and into the end plate.
straight on the inner race and into the front end plate.
USED ENGINE OIL

3. Install the second roller bearing on the remaining rotor shaft. Lubricate one roller bearing
with light engine oil. Start the bearing, shoulder side up, over the rotor shaft and bearing
inner race and into the end plate.
straight on the inner race and into the front end plate.
5. Place the bearing retainers on top of the bearings and the end plate.
6. Install three self-locking retainer screws in each retainer. Tighten the screws to 9-12 N·m

7. Make a preliminary check of the rotor-to-end plate and rotor-to-housing clearances at this
time with a feeler gage. See Figure 6-39. Minimum blower clearances are listed in Table
6-1.
1. Front End Plate 4. Rear End Plate

2. Blower Housing Assembly 5. Rotors
3. Feeler Gage
Figure 6-39 Measuring End Clearance Between Blower Rotors and End Plate

6.5 BLOWER
Blower
Engine A B C CC D E
Part No.
5101528 6V-92TA 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
5103854 6V-92TA 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
5104936 6V-92T 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
5104937 8V-92 0.007 0.019 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
5144787 8V-92 0.007 0.014 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
5144893 8V-92 0.007 0.014 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
5146912 6V, 12V-92 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
5147252 6V, 12V-92 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
8921938 8V-92TA 0.007 0.019 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.009
8923474 8V-92TA 0.007 0.019 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.007
8923475 8V-92TA 0.007 0.019 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.007
8923476 8V-92TA 0.007 0.019 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.007
8923495 6V-92TA 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.007
8923496 6V-92TA 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.007
8923497 6V-92TA 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.007
8926407 6V-92TA 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
8926408 8V-92TA 0.007 0.019 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
8926615 6V-92TA 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
8926616 8V-92TA 0.007 0.019 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
8927037 8V-92 0.007 0.019 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.007
8927039 6V-92TA 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
8927041 8V-92TA 0.007 0.019 0.013 0.013 0.015 0.009
8927043 8V-92 0.007 0.019 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.007
8927156 6V-92TA 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.005
8927468 8V-92TA 0.007 0.019 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.009
23501076 6V-92 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.010 0.015 0.007
23501261 8V-92TA 0.007 0.019 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.009
23502057 12V-92TA 0.010 0.012 0.020 0.013 0.015 0.009
23502485 6V-92TA 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.007 0.015 0.007
23502734 6V-92TA 0.007 0.012 0.010 0.006 0.015 0.004
8V,
23503027 0.010 0.019 0.025 0.013 0.015 0.009
16V-92TA
23503651 8V-92TA 0.007 0.019 0.013 0.013 0.015 0.009
Table 6-1 Minimum Blower Clearances

See Figure 6-40, and install the blower timing gears as follows:
Figure 6-40 Installing Blower Rotor Timing Gears
NOTE:
The center punch mark in the end of each rotor shaft at the omitted serration assists in
aligning the gears on the shafts.
NOTE:
If shims were removed from the back side of the gears (between the inner race of the
bearing and the gear), they should be replaced in their original positions before installing
the gears on their respective shafts.
1. Place the blower assembly on the bench, with the top of the housing up and the rear end
(serrated end of rotor shafts) of the blower facing the outside of the bench
2. Rotate the rotors to align the omitted serrations on the shafts and face to the left.
3. Install a 3.556 mm (0.140 in.) thick gear spacer and the same number and thickness shims
on each rotor shaft that was removed at the time of disassembly.

6.5 BLOWER
USED ENGINE OIL

4. Lubricate the rotor shaft serrations with light weight engine oil.
5. Mesh the rotor gear teeth so that the omitted serrations inside the gears are aligned and
facing the same direction as the shaft serrations.
6. Start both rotor gears straight on the rotor shafts, with the right-hand helix gear on the
right-hand helix rotor and the left-hand helix gear on the left-hand helix rotor and the
omitted serrations in the gears in line with the omitted serrations on the rotor shafts.
7. Thread a 1/2 in.-20 x 1-1/4 in. bolt with a thick washer into the end of each rotor shaft.
Place a clean folded cloth between the rotor lobes to prevent the gears from turning.
8. Draw the gears into position against the spacers and shims and the bearing inner races.
9. Remove the two bolts and washers that were used to draw the gears into position on
the rotor shafts.
USED ENGINE OIL

10. Lubricate the threads of the 1/2 in.-20 x 1-1/2 in. gear retaining bolts with engine oil.
11. Place a spacer (0.340 in. thick) on each bolt, and thread the bolts into the rotor shafts.
Tighten the bolts to 136-150 N m (100-110 lb ft) torque. Remove the cloth from the
blower rotors.
Time the blower rotors as follows:
NOTE:
After the blower rotors and timing gears are assembled, the blower rotors must be timed
1. Prior to timing the rotor, install four 5/16 in.-18 x 1-7/8 in. bolts with flat washers through
four bolt holes in each end plate (top and bottom), and thread them into the blower
housing. Tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque. This will hold the end
plates against the blower housing so the proper clearance between the rotors and the
end plate can be obtained.

2. Move the helical gears in or out on the shaft relative to the other gears to vary the
clearance between the lobes.
NOTE:
If the right-hand helix gear is moved out, the right-hand helix rotor will turn
counterclockwise when viewed from the gear end. If the left-hand helix gear is moved
out, the left-hand helix rotor will turn clockwise when viewed from the gear end.
Positioning the gears to obtain the proper clearance between the rotor lobes is known as
blower timing.

6.5 BLOWER
3. Add or remove shims between the gears and the bearings to move the gears in or out
on the rotor shafts.
NOTE:
The clearance between the rotor lobes may be checked with 1/2 in. wide feeler gages.
See Figure 6-41.
1. Blower Assembly 2. Feeler Gage
Figure 6-41 Measuring "CC" and "C" Clearance Between Blower Rotor Lobes
NOTE:
Clearances should be measured from both the inlet and outlet sides of the blower.
NOTE:
When measuring clearances of more than 0.005 in., laminated feeler gages that are
made up of 0.002 in., 0.003 in., or 0.005 in., feeler stock are more practical and suitable
than a single feeler gage. A specially designed feeler gage set J 1698-02 for the blower
clearance operation is available.

Time the Rotors as Follows:

4. Time the rotors to the specified clearance between the trailing edge of the right-hand
helix rotor and the leading edge of the left-hand helix rotor ("CC" clearance), measured
from both the inlet and outlet sides.
5. Check the clearance between the leading edge of the right-hand helix rotor and the trailing
edge of the left-hand helix rotor ("C" clearance) for the minimum clearance.
NOTE:
Rotor-to-rotor measurements should be taken 25.4 mm (1 in.) from each end and at
the center of the blower.
6. After determining the amount one rotor must be revolved to obtain the proper clearance,
add shims behind the proper gear to produce the desired result. When more or fewer shims
are required, both gears must be removed from the rotors. Placing a 0.0762 mm (0.003
in.) shim behind a rotor gear will revolve the rotor 0.03 mm (0.001 in.).
7. Install the required thickness shim behind the proper gear and next to the 3.556 mm
(0.140 in.) thick gear spacer that is against the bearing inner race.
8. Install both gears. Check the clearances between the rotor lobes.
9. Determine the minimum clearances at points "A" and "B".
10. Insert the feeler gages between the end plates and the ends of the rotors. Perform this
operation at the ends of each lobe. Make a total of 12 measurements.

6.5 BLOWER
11. Check the clearance between each rotor lobe and the blower housing at both the inlet and
outlet side. Make a total of 12 measurements. See Figure 6-42.
1. LH Helix Rotor 2. RH Helix Rotor
Figure 6-42 End View of Blower Rotor Clearance
After the blower rotors are timed, complete blower assembly as follows:
1. Place the fuel pump drive disc spacer over the forward end of the right-hand helix rotor
shaft. Place the special lock washer and the drive disc on the retaining bolt.
2. Thread the bolt into the rotor shaft against the spacer. Tighten the bolt to 75-88 N·m
(55-65 lb·ft) torque. Bend one lock washer tang into the slot in the drive disc and two
tangs against the flat sides of the bolt head.

3. Attach the two flex plates and spacers to the drive hub with three new type B hex lock
bolts. See Figure 6-43. Do not attempt to reuse patch bolts. Tighten the 5/16 in.-24 x
0.750 in. bolts to 34-41 N·m (25-30 lb·ft) torque.
1. Type B Hex Lock Bolt 4. Type B Hex Lock Bolt

2. Spacer 5. Hub
3. Flex Plate
Figure 6-43 Front Hub Assembly - Large Bearing Blowers
NOTE:
Only the new flex plates and type B hex lock bolts should be used to service engines
with large bearing blowers.

6.5 BLOWER
4. Attach the drive hub and spring plate assembly to the right-hand helix blower rotor timing
gear with three spacers and three type B hex lock bolts. Tighten the 5/16 in.-24 x 1 in.
NOTE:
When replacing a blower drive hub, use the new drive hub and the new blower drive
shaft flex plates, type B hex lock bolts, and hub spacers.
5. Affix a new gasket to the blower rear end plate cover. Place the cover over the gears and
against the end plate, with the opening in the cover over the blower drive hub attached to
the right-hand helix gear.
6. Install the rear cover using ten 5/16 in.-18 x 2-1/2 in. bolts and lock washers. Tighten the
bolts to 18-23 N m (13-17 lb ft) torque.
NOTE:
The tab on the gasket is to assure the gasket is in place.
7. On 6V and 12V engines, attach the adaptor and dry seal connector to the rear blower end
plate when installing the blower on an engine.
8. On all 8V and 16V engines, attach the lubricating oil tube and dry seal connector to the
rear blower end plate when installing the blower on the engine.
Attach the governor and fuel pump assembly to the blower as follows:
2. Place the fuel pump drive fork on the fuel pump shaft.
3. Position the governor and fuel pump assembly in front of the blower. Rotate the fuel pump
fork until the fork prongs align with the drive disc slots.
4. Rotate the weight shaft, and align the shaft splines with the blower rotor splines.
5. Push the governor straight on the dowel pins in the blower end plate and against the gasket.
6. Refer to section 2.24.2 for the location. Install the bolts, lock washers, copper washers,
and plain washer that secure the governor to the blower. Tighten the bolts to 18-23 N·m
6.5.5 Installation of Blower
Install the blower as follows:
NOTE:
On 12V and 16V engines, if both blowers were removed, install the rear blower first.
1. Affix a new blower housing gasket to the cylinder block with Scotch Grip rubber adhesive
No. 1300, or equivalent, to prevent the gasket from shifting when the blower is positioned.
2. If removed, place a fuel rod cover tube hose and clamp on each fuel rod cover tube at each
side of the governor housing. Tighten the clamps.

3. Place the blower end plate cover seal ring and clamp on the end of the blower drive support.
FALLING COMPONENT
NOTICE:
5. Lift the blower assembly at a slight angle, and position it on top of the cylinder block, with
the rear end plate cover flange inside the seal ring or hose.
6. Loosely install the 7/16 in.-14 x 8-1/4 in. blower end plate bolts and special washers.
Loosely install the 3/8 in-16 x 5-1/2 in. side angle bolts and retaining washers at each
NOTE:
blower housing just above the bolt slot.
7. Slip the snap ring over the notched end of the alignment tool J 33001, and thread the
blower drive shaft onto the end.

6.5 BLOWER
8. Install the alignment tool, and position the blower so that the shaft can be removed and
installed easily without drag. See Figure 6-44.
1. Flywheel Housing 2. Blower Drive Shaft Assembly
Figure 6-44 Installing Blower Alignment Tool J 33001
9. Remove the shaft with the tool, and rotate the blower lobes in 90 degree increments,
reinserting the alignment tool and repositioning the blower, as necessary. Check the
alignment at 90 degree increments through the full 360 degree blower rotation.
10. If it is not possible to position the blower so that the tool can be removed and installed
without drag in all positions, remove the shaft with the tool, and rotate the blower lobes
in 90 degree increments, reinserting the alignment tool and repositioning the blower, as

necessary. Check the alignment at 90 degree increments through the full 360 degree
blower rotation.
NOTE:
Try to achieve a condition in which the shaft can be removed with minimum drag in
the two worst positions.
With the shaft in place and the blower properly aligned, tighten the bolts, as follows:
1. Tighten the blower-to-block end plate bolts to 54-61 N·m (40-45 lb·ft) torque.
2. Tighten the blower housing-to-block side angle bolts uniformly to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft)
torque in 7 N·m (5 lb·ft) increments.
3. Check the blower-to-block end plate bolts.
Continue blower installation as follows:
1. Install the snap ring. The notch in the tool provides sufficient clearance for installing the
snap ring with needle-nose pliers. Installing the snap ring with the alignment tool in place
will prevent it from dropping into the engine gear train.
2. Remove the alignment tool from the blower drive shaft.
3. Position the blower rear end plate cover seal ring and hose clamp, and tighten the clamp.
The former rubber seal ring 18.796 mm (0.740 in. wide) incorporates two raised edges
that provide a groove to retain the clamp.
NOTE:
To retain seal load on the molded blower drive seal rings, a new 123.698 mm (4.87 in.)
diameter spring loaded T-bolt style clamp is used.
4. After installing the new T-bolt style clamp on the blower drive seal, tighten the clamp nut
on the bolt until the spring in the clamp is completely compressed.
5. Connect the lubricating oil tube to the fitting in the blower drive support.
6. Attach the flywheel housing cover to the flywheel housing.
NOTE:
If the spring has been removed in error, compress the spring and force it into the drilled
hole opposite the tach drive square hole. This operation must be done on a press. To
check for proper assembly, hold the spring and shaft assembly vertically by the spring.
Shaft weight cannot allow the spring to come out of the drilled hole. A simple installation
tool can be made from a 1/2 in. diameter piece of steel stock.
7. Attach the tachometer drive adaptor, if used, to the blower. Connect the tachometer drive
cable to the drive adaptor.
8. Slide each fuel rod cover tube hose down on the cover tubes attached to the cylinder
heads. Tighten the hose clamps.
Install the fuel rods between the cylinder heads and governor as follows:

6.5 BLOWER
1. Insert the end of the left-bank fuel rod through the hole in the cylinder head and through
the fuel rod cover tube to the control link operating lever.
2. Raise the connecting pin in the connecting link lever. Insert the end of the fuel rod
between the two bosses on the lever, and insert the connecting pin through the fuel rod
and into the lower boss.
pin and cotter pin.
4. Insert the end of the right-bank fuel rod through the hole in the cylinder head and through
the fuel rod cover tube to the control link operating lever.
6. Insert the end of the fuel rod between the two bosses on the lever and install the screw pin.
Tighten the pin securely.
pin and cotter pin.
Continue blower installation as follows:
on the governor housing with the pin in the speed control or stop lever shaft assembly in
the differential lever slot and the housing dowel pins in the cover dowel pin holes.
2. Install the eight cover attaching screws and lock washers. Securely tighten the screws.
3. If the engine is equipped with a variable speed governor, attach the governor booster
spring to the speed control lever.
4. If the engine is equipped with a battery-charging alternator, attach the alternator and
support bracket to the cylinder head. Connect the wires to the alternator.
5. Install and connect the crossover fuel oil line to each cylinder head. Connect the fuel
6. If removed, install the front engine lifter bracket.
8. Position the bypass tube so it clears the governor, fuel pump and fuel oil lines. Tighten the
hose clamps.
9. Attach the air shutdown adaptor to the blower and the air shutdown housing assembly to
the adaptor. Refer to section 6.4.4.
10. Connect the shutdown wire assembly to the air shutoff cam pin handle at the side of
the air shutdown housing.
11. Install the turbocharger and attaching parts, if used. Refer to section 6.6.5.
12. Connect the air cleaner to shutdown housing or turbocharger tubing as required.
13. Connect the throttle control rods to the speed control and stop levers on the governor.

14. Attach any other accessories that were removed to the engine.
15. Close the drain cocks, and fill the engine cooling system. Refer to section 13.12.
17. Check for and correct any coolant or oil leaks.

6.6 TURBOCHARGER (AIRESEARCH)
The turbocharger is designed to increase the over-all engine efficiency. See Figure 6-45. Power to
drive the turbocharger is extracted from the waste energy in the engine exhaust gas.
1. Center Housing 3. "V" Band Coupling

2. Turbine Housing 4. Compressor Housing
Figure 6-45 Typical Turbocharger Assembly
The turbocharger consists of a radial inward flow turbine wheel and shaft, a centrifugal
compressor wheel, and a center housing that serves to support the rotating assembly, bearings,
seals, turbine housing, and compressor housing. The center housing has connections for oil
inlet and oil outlet fittings.

The turbine wheel is inside the turbine housing and mounted on one end of the turbine shaft. The
compressor wheel is in the compressor housing and mounted on the opposite end of the turbine
wheel shaft to form an integral rotating assembly. See Figure 6-46.
1. Compressor Wheel 5. Turbine Wheel

2. Oil Inlet 6. Shaft Bearings, Thrust Bearings,Retainers, and
Washer
3. Center Housing 7. Oil Outlet
4. Shaft
Figure 6-46 Typical Turbocharger
The rotating assembly consists of a turbine wheel and shaft assembly, piston ring(s), thrust
spacer or thrust collar, compressor wheel and wheel retaining nut. The rotating assembly is
supported on two pressure lubricated bearings retained in the center housing by snap rings.
Internal oil passages are drilled in the center housing to provide lubrication to the turbine wheel
shaft bearings and the thrust bearing.

The turbine housing is a heat resistant alloy casting that encloses the turbine wheel and provides
a flanged engine exhaust gas inlet and an axially-located turbocharger exhaust gas outlet. The
T18A40 and T18A90 turbine housings are bolted to the turbine end of the center housing. The
TV71 and TV81 turbine housings are secured to the turbine end of the center housing with a "V"
band coupling, providing a compact and vibration free assembly.
The compressor housing enclosing the compressor wheel provides an ambient air inlet and a
compressed air discharge outlet. The T18A40, T18A90, TV71, and TV81 compressor housings
are secured to the back plate assembly with a "V" band coupling.
The turbocharger is mounted on the engine exhaust outlet flange. After the engine is started, the
exhaust gases flowing from the engine and through the turbine housing cause the turbine wheel
and shaft to rotate. See Figure 6-47. The gases are discharged into the atmosphere after passing
through the turbine housing.
1. Piston and Cylinder 3. Exhaust Gas Discharge

Figure 6-47 Turbocharger Schematic Air Flow Diagram

The compressor wheel, is mounted on the opposite end of the turbine wheel shaft and rotates with
the turbine wheel. The compressor wheel draws in fresh air, compresses it, and delivers high
pressure air through the engine blower to the engine cylinders.
During operation, the turbocharger reacts to the engine exhaust gas flow, responding to the engine
load. As the engine power output increases or decreases, the turbocharger delivers the required
amount of air under all conditions.
Some engines are equipped with an aftercooler to cool the air going into the engine after it passes
through the turbocharger and the engine blower. Refer to section 6.8. Some marine engines are
equipped with an intercooler to cool the air going into the engine after it passes through the
turbocharger and engine blower. Refer to section 6.7.

Lubricating oil for the turbocharger is supplied under pressure through an external oil line
extending from the engine cylinder block to the top of the center housing. From the oil inlet in the
center housing, the oil flows through the drilled oil passages in the housing to the shaft bearings
and thrust bearings. See Figure 6-48. The oil returns to the engine oil pan through an external oil
line extending from the bottom of the turbocharger center housing to the cylinder block.

2. Oil Inlet 6. Shaft Bearings, Thrust Bearings,Retainers, and
Washer
3. Center Housing 7. Oil Outlet
4. Shaft
Figure 6-48 Typical Turbocharger

On optional turbocharger mounting (OTM) vehicle engines, the oil returns directly from the
turbocharger through two drain holes in the blower end plate (front end plate for front mounted
turbocharger or rear plate for rear mounted turbocharger) to lubricate the blower bearings and
either the timing gears or the governor drive and fuel pump drive. Refer to section 6.5.4.
NOTE:
New service kits have been released to provide more durable rear lube oil supply lines for
blower mounted turbochargers used on 6V and 8V engines. Each line must be positioned
to prevent the braided stainless steel hose cover from rubbing or chafing against other
hoses and/or engine components. The hose bracket-to-air inlet housing must support the
hose and tube assembly at the air inlet housing. See Figure 6-49 and see Figure 6-50.
1. Oil Supply Line 3. Turbocharger

2. Clamp 4. Blower
Figure 6-49 Typical 6V-92 Right-Bank Turbo Oil Supply Hose Routing

1. Oil Supply Line 3. Air Inlet Housing

2. Clamp 4. Breather Tube
Figure 6-50 Typical 8V-92 Left-Bank Turbo Oil Supply Hose Routing
Front-mounted turbocharger lube oil supply line kits are now available to service 6V and 8V
engines equipped with blower mounted turbochargers. Marine engines are not included in this
change. The new front-mounted turbocharger lines provide a shorter, more direct path for the
turbocharger lube oil supply. Two tapped holes have been added to the front of current 6V and
8V cylinder blocks. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for former cylinder block
modifications. The right-bank hole is used for the turbocharger oil supply line. The left-bank
hole may be used for an additional oil feed location, if desired.

NOTICE:
On engines using a governor high idle cylinder, sufficient
clearance must be provided between the turbo oil supply line
and the high idle cylinder to avoid damaging the supply line.
NOTICE:
Failure to perform the prelubrication procedure may result in
premature bearing failure due to "oil lag" or lack of lubrication.
Before the initial start, when a new or overhauled turbocharger is installed, the turbocharger
must be prelubricated.
For increased safety, a guard assembly is installed over the compressor inlets of all
blower-mounted and front center-mounted Airesearch turbochargers. The two-piece assembly
protects the service technician from the exposed turbocharger compressor wheel when the engine
is operated with the air inlet piping removed from the compressor housing. See Figure 6-51. The
guard assembly also prevents the turbocharger from ingesting foreign objects and causing damage.
1. Retainer 3. Strip Seal

2. Screen 4. Compressor Inlet
Figure 6-51 Compressor Inlet Screen Assembly and Strip Seal

NOTICE:
DO NOT remove the guard assembly. Attempting to remove the
guard will result in damage to the guard and the housing. A
damaged guard or housing cannot be reused.
PERSONAL INJURY
NOTE:
Because the inlet guard assembly provides added safety, DDC recommends having the
guard installed on early blower-mounted and front center-mounted turbochargers when
the air inlet piping is removed for any reason. See Figure 6-52.
1. Turbocharger Assembly 2. Inlet Shield
Figure 6-52 Turbocharger Inlet Shield

Detroit Diesel has released turbocharger mounting bracket gaskets with self-adhesive backing
for the methanol-fueled engines. These gaskets are installed between the cylinder head and the
turbocharger mounting bracket. See Figure 6-53.
1. Exhaust Tube Assembly 6. Lock Washer

2. Exhaust Clamp 7. Turbocharger Mounting Bracket
3. Cylinder Head 8. Bolt
4. Bracket Gasket 9. Turbocharger Mounting Tee
5. Nut
Figure 6-53 Placement of Turbocharger Mounting Gaskets

NOTICE:
To avoid serious engine damage, remove the paper backing from
the gasket before installation.
A pressure sensitive adhesive coating has been has been added to the gasket. A paper backing
protects the adhesive film.

NOTICE:
DO NOT remove the guard assembly. Attempting to remove the
guard will result in damage to the guard and the housing. A
damaged guard or housing cannot be reused.
PERSONAL INJURY
A new screen assembly with a special strip seal is currently installed over the 5 in. diameter
blower-mounted and front center-mounted Garrett turbocharger compressor inlets, see Figure
6-54. The current screen assembly replaces the former assembly. Former and current screen
assemblies are similar, except the bezel on the new assembly has an inboard tapered face. The
screen assembly with strip seal is standard on Garrett turbochargers.
1. Turbocharger
Figure 6-54 Installed on Air InletJ 26554-A

The current screen assembly protects the service technician from the exposed turbocharger
compressor wheel when the engine is operated with the air inlet piping removed from the
compressor housing. The screen assembly prevents large foreign objects from damaging the
turbocharger. The rubber strip seal keeps unfiltered air from seeping around the air inlet hose and
entering the turbocharger.
A bead machined on the end of the compressor housing permanently retains the guard assembly.
Compressor housings for all blower-mounted and front center-mounted turbochargers are serviced
with the inlet guard installed.
Tests show that the following three conditions contribute to oil seal leakage at the internal
turbocharger oil seal:
□ A worn or defective oil seal, that must be replaced.
□ High air inlet restriction (above specified limits) will cause oil to be pulled past the oil seal.
□ Long periods of operation where the engine is being motored (using the engine as a braking
device while going down a long hill), causing oil to pass the oil seal.
For oil leak testing procedure, refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
6.6.1 Repair or Replacement of Turbocharger (Airesearch)

See Figure 6-55.

Figure 6-55 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Turbocharger

(Airesearch)
6.6.2 Removal of Turbocharger
Remove the turbocharger as follows:


2. Disconnect the exhaust manifold adaptor attached to the turbine housing.
NOTE:
When removing the left-bank exhaust manifold to turbocharger tube on the blower
mounted turbochargers, matchmark one end of the tube for easy identification when
installing the tube.
3. Disconnect the air inlet hose attached to the compressor housing.

4. Remove the oil inlet line from the top of the center housing.
5. Remove the oil outlet line from the bottom to the center housing.
6. Attach a chain hoist and a suitable lifting sling to the turbocharger assembly.
7. Remove the nuts and lock washers securing the turbocharger assembly to the mounting
bracket.
FALLING COMPONENT
NOTICE:
Ensure turbocharger is securely attached to the lifting sling
before removing from the engine. Turbocharger damage may
result if the turbocharger breaks away from the lifting device
and falls.
8. Lift the turbocharger assembly away from the engine, and place it on a bench.
9. Cover the end of each oil inlet and outlet line and the air inlet and exhaust outlet openings
on the engine to prevent foreign material entry.
6.6.3 Disassembly of Turbocharger
Disassemble the turbocharger as follows:

1. Clean the exterior of the turbocharger with a non-caustic cleaning solvent.
NOTE:
Mark the compressor housing, center housing and turbine housing positions with a
punch or scribe prior to disassembly to ensure that it is assembled in the same position.
2. See Figure 6-56. Loosen the "V" band coupling securing the compressor housing to
the back plate assembly.

1. Turbine Wheel Assembly Shaft 12. Turbine Housing

2. Compressor Housing 13. Turbine Housing Clamp
3. "V" Band Coupling 14. Lock Plate
4. Self-Locking Nut 15. Bolt
5. Compressor Wheel 16. Thrust Collar
6. Bolt 17. Inboard Thrust Bearing
7. Lock Plate 18. Bearing
8. Back Plate Assembly 19. Bearing Washer
9. Piston Ring (Two for 18A90) 20. Snap Ring
10. Thrust Spacer 21. Seal Ring
11. Turbine Wheel Shroud 22. Center Housing
Figure 6-56 T18A40 and T18A90 Turbocharger

PERSONAL INJURY
3. Remove the compressor housing and "V" band.
NOTICE:
Exercise care when removing the compressor housing and
turbine housing to prevent damage to the compressor and
turbine wheels.
4. With the T18A40 and T18A90 turbochargers, bend the ends of the lock plates, and remove
the eight bolts securing the four lock plates and turbine housing clamps to the center
housing and turbine housing.
5. With the TV71 and TV81 turbochargers, loosen the "V" band coupling securing the
turbine housing to the center housing.
6. Remove the turbine housing from the center housing.
NOTE:
Tap the housing with a soft hammer, if necessary.

7. Place the center housing assembly turbine wheel in a suitable holding fixture. See Figure
6-57.
1. Base 3. Turbine Wheel

2. Fingers
Figure 6-57 Turbocharger Holding Fixture

NOTICE:
To prevent bending the turbine wheel shaft, remove the
compressor wheel nut from the shaft with a double universal
socket and tee handle.
8. Remove the wheel nut from the shaft.
NOTE:
If a holding fixture is not available, clamp a suitable socket or box end wrench in a vise,
and place the extended hub on the shaft in the socket or wrench. Hold the center
housing upright, and remove the wheel nut from the shaft.
9. Lift or press the compressor wheel from the wheel shaft assembly.
10. Withdraw the wheel shaft assembly from the center housing. The wheel shroud, which is
not retained, will fall free when the wheel shaft is removed.
11. With TV71 and TV81 turbochargers, remove and discard the turbine piston ring from
the wheel shaft.
12. Bend down the lock tabs, and remove the four bolts and lock plates securing the back plate
assembly to the center housing.
13. Tap the back plate lightly to remove it from the center housing recess.
NOTE:
Do not disassemble the back plate assembly. Unless it is necessary to replace the pins,
do not remove them from the center housing.
14. Remove and discard the seal ring from the groove in the center housing.
15. Remove the thrust spacer and piston ring(s) from the back plate assembly. Discard the
piston ring(s).
16. Remove the thrust collar, inboard thrust bearing (if used), bearing, bearing washer (if
used), and snap ring from the center housing. Discard the thrust bearing, bearing washer,
and snap ring.
17. Remove the snap ring, bearing, bearing washer (if used), and snap ring from the opposite
end of the center housing. Discard the snap rings, bearing, and washer.
6.6.3.1 Cleaning of Turbocharger
Refer to OEM
6.6.3.2 Inspection of Turbocharger
Inspect the turbocharger as follows:

1. Visually inspect the oil inlet and outlet lines for dents or crimping or oil leaks.

[a] If dented or crimped, replace the oil inlet and outlet lines. Refer to section 6.6.4.
[b] Oil in the inlet or outlet ducts or dripping from either housing indicates a seal
problem that will require turbocharger overhaul. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
[c] If not dented or crimped, continue with inspection.
2. Visually inspect the turbine wheel shroud and turbine wheel for rubbing.
[a] If rubbing has occurred, replace the turbine wheel, shroud and air compressor.
[b] If no rubbing has occurred, continue with inspection.
3. Check shaft bearing journal dimensions and wear limits. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
[a] If dimensions are not within wear limits, replace the shaft bearing journal.
[b] If dimensions fall within specified wear limits, proceed with inspection.
4. Inspect the shaft for scoring, scratches or bearing seizure.
[a] If scored or scratched, burnish or polish using a silicone carbide cloth for aluminum
parts or a crocus cloth for steel parts.
[b] If excessively scored or scratched or if bearings have seized, replace the shaft.
[c] If no scoring or scratches are evident and if bearings have not seized, proceed with
inspection.
5. Inspect the seal parts for rubbing or scoring on the running faces.
[a] If rubbed or scored, burnish or polish using a Silicone Carbide cloth for aluminum
parts or a crocus cloth for steel parts.
[b] If excessively rubbed or scored, replace the seal. Refer to section 6.6.4.
[c] If no rubbing or scoring is evident, proceed with inspection.
6. Visually inspect the back plate assembly for wear or damage.
[a] If worn or damaged, replace the back plate. Refer to section 6.6.4.
[b] If the back plate is not worn or damaged, proceed with inspection.
7. Visually inspect the housing for contact with the rotating parts.
[a] If housing is contacting the rotating parts, replace the turbocharger. Refer to section
6.6.4.
[b] If no contact with rotating parts is evident, proceed with inspection.
8. Visually inspect the oil and air passages for obstructions.
[a] If obstructed, remove the foreign material.
[b] If no obstructions are visible, proceed with inspection.

9. Inspect the exhaust outlet elbow seal ring for wear or damage.
[a] If worn or damaged, replace the exhaust outlet elbow seal ring. Refer to section 6.6.4.
NOTE:
DDC recommends that the seal ring, piston rings, thrust bearings, bearing washers, snap
rings, lock plates, and bolts be replaced at time of disassembly. If the thrust bearing is
excessively worn, the back plate must be replaced.
10. Check for dirt or carbon buildup on the impeller or in the housing. Excessive
accumulations indicate either a leak in the ducting or a faulty air filtering system.
[a] Remove all dirt and carbon. Determine and correct the cause.
[b] If no dirt or carbon has accumulated, proceed with inspection.
11. Check for leaking oil from the turbocharger housings.
[a] If oil is leaking excessively, replace. Refer to section 6.6.5.
[b] If no excessive leaks are present, continue with inspection.
NOTE:
Lubricant applied under pressure to the center housing while the shaft is not turning
may allow oil to enter the turbine and compressor housings. After the turbocharger has
been operated for a time under load conditions and with the inlet restriction at normal,
however, oil in these sections should disappear.
12. Inspect the turbocharger rotating assembly for free rotation. Whenever the exhaust ducting
is removed, spin the turbine wheel by hand.
[a] If the turbine wheel does not spin freely, replace. Refer to section 6.6.5.
[b] If the turbine wheel spins freely, proceed with inspection.
13. Inspect the compressor and turbine wheels for nicks.
[a] If nicked, replace the compressor and turbine wheel.
[b] If no nicks are evident, proceed with inspection.
14. Visually inspect the compressor and turbine wheel blades for damage.
NOTE:
Both wheels are precision balanced. A broken or bent blade can throw the rotating
assembly out of balance and shorten the life of the turbocharger.
[a] If the blades are damaged, replace the rotating assembly. Refer to section 6.6.4.
[b] If the blades are not damaged, proceed with inspection.
15. Visually inspect the wheel bore for galling.
[a] If galled, replace the turbocharger. Refer to section 6.6.4.

[b] If not galled, proceed with inspection.

16. Inspect the wheel for dirt and other foreign material.
NOTICE:
Do not attempt to remove carbon or dirt buildup on the
compressor or turbine wheels without removing the turbocharger
from the engine. The blades on the wheels must be thoroughly
cleaned. If chunks of carbon are left on the blades, the wheels
will become unbalanced and cause bearing failure.
NOTE:
It is not necessary to disassemble the turbocharger to remove dirt and dust buildup.
[a] If contaminated, clean the wheel.

[b] If not contaminated, reuse the parts.
6.6.4 Assembly of Turbocharger
Assemble the turbocharger as follows:
NOTE:
Check each part prior to installation to ensure cleanliness. As the parts are assembled,
cover the openings to prevent dirt or other foreign material from entering the engine.
USED ENGINE OIL

1. Lubricate the new bearings with clean engine oil.

2. Install a new snap ring, bearing washer, bearing, and snap ring in the turbine end of the
center housing.
3. Install a new snap ring, bearing washer, and bearing in the compressor end of the center
housing.
4. Install a new piston ring(s) on the thrust spacer, and gently insert the spacer into the
back plate assembly.
NOTE:
The current thrust spacer has two grooves. When replacing the former one groove
spacer with the two groove spacer, ensure that the two piston rings are included.

5. Ensure that the compressor bearing is in place, and position the new inboard thrust
washer flat against the center housing with the thrust washer hole and cutout aligned with
the center housing pins.
6. Install the thrust collar snugly against the thrust washer.
USED ENGINE OIL

7. Lubricate the thrust collar and thrust washer with clean engine oil.
8. Install a new seal ring in the groove at the compressor end of the center housing.
9. Align the oil feed holes in the center housing and the back plate assembly, and attach the
back plate to the center housing with four bolts and new lock plates.
10. Tighten the T18A bolts to 10-12 N·m (90-110 lb·ft) torque or the TV71 and TV81 bolts to
9-11 N·m (80-100 lb·ft) torque. Bend the lock plate tangs against the side of the bolt heads.
NOTICE:
If a new back plate with a warning plate is installed, the warning
plate must be removed and the three drive screw holes plugged
to prevent air leaks. Failure to observe this notice will result in
engine damage.
NOTE:
A steel lock plate and high strength bolts are now used in the T18A Series turbocharger.
The high strength bolts and lock plates must be used together. The bolts must be
tightened to 18-20 N·m (160-180 lb·ft) torque. Bend the lock plate tangs against the side
of the bolt heads after tightening the bolts. Only the current steel lock plate and high
strength bolts are serviced.
11. Before installing the piston ring, fill the piston ring groove with Dow Corning High
Vacuum Silicone grease, or equivalent.
12. On TV71 and TV81 and turbochargers, install a new turbine piston ring on the wheel
shaft assembly.
13. Position the wheel shroud against the center housing.
14. Lubricate the wheel shaft assembly journal.
15. Insert the wheel shaft assembly through the wheel shroud and into the center housing.
NOTE:
Ensure that the bearings do not become scuffed or scratched when installing the shaft.

16. Place the turbine wheel shaft assembly, shroud, center housing, and back plate upright in a
suitable holding fixture. See Figure 6-58.
1. Base 3. Turbine Wheels

2. Fingers
Figure 6-58 Turbocharger Holding Fixture

NOTE:
If a holding fixture is not available, clamp a suitable socket or box wrench in a vise, and
place the extended hub on the socket or wrench shaft.
17. At room temperature, position the compressor wheel over the shaft.
18. Lightly lubricate the shaft threads and wheel face with engine oil.
19. Install the retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 14-17 N·m (125-150 lb·in.) torque to seat the
compressor wheel against the thrust spacer.
20. Loosen the nut, and inspect the nut face and the front face of the compressor wheel.
NOTE:
Ensure that the nut face and compressor wheel face are smooth and clean.
21. Tighten the nut to 4-6 N·m (35-55 lb·in.) torque.

22. Tighten the retaining nut until the shaft increases 0.1778–0.2032 mm (0.007–0.008 in.) in
length (T18A40) or 0.2286–0.254 mm (0.009–0.010 in.) in length (T18A90, TV71 and
TV81). Tighten the retaining nut without imposing bending load on the shaft.
23. If equipment is not available to measure the shaft stretch, tighten the wheel retaining nut
to 4-6 N·m (35-55 lb·in.) torque. Continue to tighten the nut through an angle of 100 to
110 degrees turn for the T18A40 or 120 to 130 degrees turn for the T18A90, TV71 and
TV81.Check the bearing axial end play as follows:

24. Clamp the center housing assembly in a soft jawed bench vise. See Figure 6-59.
1. Center Housing 3. Magnetic Base Dial Indicator

2. Turbine Wheel 4. Compressor Wheel
Figure 6-59 Checking Bearing Axial End Play
25. Fasten the dial indicator and magnetic base J 7872-2 (from set J 7872) to the center housing
so that the indicator tip rests on the end of the rotating shaft on the compressor side.
26. Move the shaft back and forth by hand. The total indicator reading (thrust float) should
be 0.1016–0.2286 mm (0.004–0.009 in.) on T18A40 and T18A90 or 0.0762–0.254 mm
(0.003–0.010 in.) on TV71 and TV81.
27. If the total dial indicator readings do not fall within the specified limits, repair or replace
the rotating assembly.Continue turbocharger assembly as follows:
28. Position the turbine housing (as marked at disassembly) against the center housing.
29. Secure the T18A40 and T18A90 turbine with four clamps, four new lock plates, and
eight bolts. Tighten the bolts to 11-15 N·m (100-130 lb-in) torque. Bend the lock plate
tabs against the bolts.

NOTICE:
Ensure that the "T" bolt is position properly. Failure to properly
orient the "T" bolt end of the clamp can result in an exhaust leak
and/or turbine wheel damage.
30. On TV71 and TV81 turbochargers, position the "V" band coupling between the turbine
housing and center housing so that the "T" bolt end does not interfere with the turbine
housing.
31. Tighten the "V" band coupling nut, as follows:
[a] Lubricate the toggle bolt threads with a high temperature anti-seize compound, such
as Jet Lube (Mil Spec A-907D), or equivalent.
NOTE:
Do not pull a misaligned turbine housing into alignment with the "V" band coupling.
The parts must be aligned and seated first.
[b] Tighten the nut on the "V" band toggle bolt to 18 N·m (160 lb·in.) torque.
NOTE:
Ensure that the extension rod does not make contact with the sides of the center
housing. Otherwise it will be impossible to obtain an accurate reading.
[c] Loosen the "V" band coupling nut to approximately 6 N·m (50 lb·in.) torque. Tighten
the nut to 17-19 N·m (152-168 lb·in.) torque.
32. Position the compressor housing as marked at disassembly against the back plate
assembly. Secure it with the "V" band coupling.
USED ENGINE OIL

33. Lightly lubricate the toggle bolt threads with engine oil, and tighten the nut to 12-15 N·m
(110-130 lb·in.) torque.Check the shaft radial movement as follows:
34. Position the magnetic base J 7872-2 with the swivel adaptor J 7872-3 (from set J 7872) on
the flat surface of the turbine housing inlet flange.
35. Fasten the dial indicator extension rod J 7872-1 to the dial indicator J 8001-3 (from set
J 7872). Attach the dial indicator to the swivel adaptor.

36. Insert the extension rod J 7872-1 (from set J 7872) into the oil drain tube mounting pad
opening so that the rod is against the wheel shaft and perpendicular to the shaft.
NOTE:
Ensure that the extension rod does not make contact with the sides of the center
housing. It will be impossible to obtain an accurate reading.
37. Grasp each end of the rotating assembly and, apply equal pressure at each end.
38. Move the rotating shaft toward and away from the dial indicator, creating a transverse
movement in the shaft.
39. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for dial indicator displacement. If
the displacement does not fall within these limits, disassemble and repair or replace the
rotating assembly. Refer to section 6.6.3.Complete assembly as follows:
40. If the unit will be stored, lubricate it internally, and install protective covers on all
openings.
41. Stamp the letter "R" in the lower left-hand corner of the name plate to indicate that the
turbocharger has been reworked.
6.6.5 Installation of Turbocharger
Install the turbocharger as follows:
FALLING COMPONENT
NOTICE:
Ensure turbocharger is securely attached to the lifting sling
before removing from the engine. Turbocharger damage may
result if the turbocharger breaks away from the lifting device
and falls.
1. Attach a chain hoist and a suitable lifting sling to the turbocharger assembly.
2. Remove the covers from the air inlet and exhaust outlet openings.
3. On TV71 and TV81 turbochargers, install gaskets at the three mounting bracket to
flywheel housing attaching bolts.

4. Place the turbocharger assembly into position on the mounting bracket. Use a new gasket
between the exhaust manifold adaptor and the turbine housing flange.
NOTE:
When attaching the exhaust flange or adaptor to the turbine housing, ensure that the
inner diameter of the flange or adaptor is the same as the turbine housing inner diameter.
The turbine opening in the T18A40 turbocharger is 97.79 mm (3.850 in.), the T18A90
turbocharger is 107.95 mm (4.250 in.), the TV71 turbocharger is 88.392 mm (3.480 in.),
the TV81 turbocharger is 98.8568 mm (3.892 in.).
5. Secure the turbocharger to the mounting bracket with bolts, lock washers, and nuts.
Tighten the nuts enough to hold the turbocharger tightly against the bracket.
NOTE:
When self-locking nuts are used to secure the turbocharger to the mounting bracket,
ensure that the thread fully engages the bolts.
6. Slide the blower air inlet hose over the compressor housing outlet opening. Center the
hose between the turbocharger and the blower air inlet housing.
7. Secure the clamps with the "T" section positioned away from the parting line on the air
inlet housing.
NOTICE:
When installing the left-bank exhaust manifold-to-turbocharger
tube on a blower mounted turbocharger, it is important to install
the tube correctly. If the tube is installed incorrectly, the flange
area can crack and adversely affect performance.
NOTE:
Ensure the exhaust manifold remains seated on the locating pads on the cylinder head.
NOTE:
The solid left-bank tube is almost symmetrical. Thus, it is difficult to identify which end
goes where. Position the tube between the exhaust manifold and the turbocharger and
determine that the conical seat at each end of the tube is a flush fit with the openings.
If not, reverse the tube and check to ensure that each end of the tube fits flush with
the openings.
NOTE:
To help in tube installation, loosen the exhaust manifold mounting bolts and tighten them
alternately while tightening the tube clamps.
8. Tighten the turbocharger to exhaust manifold adaptor bolts securely.

FALLING COMPONENT
NOTICE:
Ensure turbocharger is securely attached to the engine before
releasing the lifting sling. Turbocharger damage may result if
the turbocharger breaks away from the engine and falls.
9. Remove the chain hoist and lifting sling from the turbocharger.
10. Install the oil drain line between the opening in the bottom side of the center housing and
the cylinder block.
11. Attach the oil inlet line to the cylinder block.
After installing a rebuilt or new turbocharger, lubricate all moving turbocharger center housing
parts as follows:
1. Clean the area and disconnect the oil inlet line at the bearing housing.
2. Fill the bearing housing cavity with clean engine oil.
3. Install the oil line.

4. Clean any spilled oil.
NOTE:
The lube oil supply connector formerly installed in the plate is assembled directly to the
turbocharger center housing. The current TV turbocharger oil inlet is threaded by the
manufacturer. See Figure 6-60.
1. Turbine Outlet 5. Cover Threaded

2. Connector 6. Gasket
3. Bolt 7. Compressor Inlet
4. Washer 8. Oil Inlet Now Threaded
Figure 6-60 Former and Current Lube Oil Supply Connections

PERSONAL INJURY
NOTICE:
Do not use any type of lubricant on the inside of any air inlet hose
or on the hose contact surfaces of the turbocharger compressor
housing, CAC ducting or the intake manifold. Use of lubricant
can cause the hose to blow off when the turbocharger builds
boost pressure.
NOTICE:
The free floating bearings in the turbocharger center housing
require positive lubrication. Starting any turbocharged engine
and accelerating to any speed above idle before engine oil
supply and pressure has reached the free floating bearings
can cause severe damage to the shaft and bearings of the
turbocharger.
5. Run the engine at idle until oil reaches all moving parts. An oil pressure gage pressure of
69 kPa (10 lb/in.2) at idle speed indicates that all moving parts are being lubricated.
Complete turbocharger installation as follows:
1. Check all connections, ducts, and gaskets for leaks after starting the engine.
2. Operate the engine at rated output, and listen for metallic contact sounds from the
turbocharger.
3. If any such noise is heard, stop the engine immediately. Identify and correct the cause.
NOTE:
After the turbocharger has been operating long enough to permit the unit and the oil
to warm up, the rotating assembly should freely coast to a stop after the engine has
stopped. If the rotating assembly jerks to a sudden stop, immediately determine and
eliminate the cause.

6.7 TURBOCHARGER INTERCOOLER
An intercooler is placed between the air discharge side of each turbocharger and the air inlet
side of the engine blower. See Figure 6-61. The intercooler is used to reduce the temperature
of compressed air leaving the turbocharger before it reaches the blower, allowing a denser air
charge to be delivered to the engine.
1. Water Connections 4. Air Outlet Housing

2. Turbocharger 5. Hose and Clamp Assemblies
3. Intercooler Cores 6. Air Inlet Housing
Figure 6-61 Turbocharger Intercooler Mounting
A raw water pump driven off the rear end of the engine supplies water to the intercooler. The
water makes six passes through the core and is discharged from the connection diagonally
opposite the inlet. The air from the turbocharger enters the finned side of the intercooler face
opposite the water inlet, and flows counter to the water flow through the core.

A cone-shaped 20 mesh water filter protects the coolant circulated through the intercoolers. The
filter is located at the water connection in the water pump-to-engine oil cooler tube.
6.7.1 Repair or Replacement of Turbocharger Intercooler

See Figure 6-62.

Figure 6-62 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Turbocharger Intercooler
6.7.2 Removal of Turbocharger Intercooler
Remove the turbocharger intercooler as follows:

1. Drain the raw water system. Refer to section 13.54.

2. Disconnect the air and water inlet hose connections at the air shutdown housing.
3. Remove the intercooler air inlet housing.
4. Remove the intercooler from the air outlet housing.
5. Discard the gaskets.
6.7.3 Disassembly of Turbocharger Intercooler
Disassemble the intercooler as follows:

1. Remove the two bolts and lock washers, and withdraw the drain adaptor, with the drain
cock, from the drain hole below the intercooler outlet connector. See Figure 6-63.
1. Housing 10. Seal Ring

2. Name Plate 11. Tube
3. Screw 12. Connector
4. Housing Seal Ring 13. Lock Washer
5. Felt Pads 14. Bolt
6. Intercooler Core 15. Drain Cock
7. Adaptor Plate 16. Adaptor
8. Adaptor Plate Screw 17. Small Seal Rings
9. Gasket 18. Smaller Tube
Figure 6-63 Exploded View Assembly of Intercooler and Related Parts

2. Remove three bolts and lock washers from each connector, and withdraw the inlet and
outlet connectors straight out from the intercooler. Remove and discard the gaskets.
3. Remove the drain, inlet and outlet tubes, and seal rings from the water openings in the
intercooler.
4. Remove and discard the two seal rings on each tube.
5. Remove the four cross-head screws from the intercooler adaptor plate.
6. Remove the plate, and discard the seal ring.
7. Remove the top one-piece felt pad.
8. Lift the intercooler core straight up and out of the housing.
9. If necessary, remove the eight upright felt pads for cleaning.
6.7.3.1 Inspection of Turbocharger Intercooler
Inspect the intercooler as follows:

1. Inspect the intercooler for marine growth and debris plugging the intercooler tubes.
[a] Clear the intercooler tubes of debris, and thoroughly clean the intercooler.
[b] If no growth or debris are evident, continue inspection.
Pressure check the intercooler as follows:
1. Make a suitable adaptor that an air hose can be attached, and fasten it to the inner cooler
core inlet pipe. Use a piece of hose, a plug, and clamp to seal the outlet pipe.
EYE INJURY
PRESSURIZED CHARGE COOLER SYSTEM

To avoid eye or face injury from flying debris, wear a face
shield or goggles.
2. Attach an air hose, and apply approximately 138 kPa (20 lb/in.2) air pressure. Submerge
the cooler core in a tank of water. Any leaks will be indicated by air bubbles in the water.
3. Remove the air hose, clamp, plug, hose, and adaptor.

EYE INJURY
4. Dry the cooler core with compressed air.

[a] If any leaks are disclosed, replace the cooler core. Refer to section 6.7.4
[b] If no leaks are disclosed, reuse the cooler core.
6.7.3.2 Cleaning of Turbocharger Intercooler
Refer to OEM
6.7.4 Assembly of Turbocharger Intercooler
Assemble the intercooler as follows:

1. If removed, affix the eight upright felt pads in the intercooler housing using Silastic 732
RTV, or equivalent.
2. Place the intercooler core straight into the housing.
3. Fix the one-piece felt pad around the top side of the housing.
NOTE:
The felt pad should meet at the center of the housing, and must not overlap.
4. Lubricate a new seal ring and the adaptor plate groove with vegetable shortening, and
install the seal ring in the plate.
5. Place the adaptor plate on the intercooler housing, and thread the four 3/8 in.-16 x 0.75 in.
screws into the housing. Tighten the screws to 5.65 N·m (50 lb·in) torque.
6. Lubricate new seal rings and the two grooves on each drain, inlet, and outlet tube with
vegetable shortening, and place the seal rings on the tubes. Place the drain, inlet, and
outlet tubes in the housing water openings.
7. Use new gaskets, and install the water inlet and outlet connectors on the housing with
three 3/8 in.-16 x 1 in. bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts to 27.12 N·m (240 lb·in.)
torque.
NOTE:
The gasket with the drain hole is used at the outlet opening.
8. Install the drain adaptor and drain cock with two 5/16 in.-18 x 0.88 in. bolts and lock
washers. Tighten the bolts to 13.56 N·m (120 lb·in.) torque.

6.7.5 Installation of Turbocharger Intercooler
Install the intercooler as follows:

1. Use new gaskets, and install the intercooler on the air outlet housing with twenty 3/8
in.-16 x 1 in. bolts with lock washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts.
2. Use new gaskets, and attach the inlet housing to the intercooler with twenty 3/8 in.-16 x
1-1/8 in. bolts with lock washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts.
3. Connect the air and water inlet and outlet hoses at the air shutdown housing, turbocharger,
and intercooler. Tighten the hose clamps.
4. Fill the raw water system. Refer to section 13.54.
5. Start the engine, and check for any air or water leaks.

6.8 TURBOCHARGER AFTERCOOLER
The aftercooler mounts in the cylinder block opening between the cylinders and beneath the
blower assembly. See Figure 6-64. The aftercooler cools the air going into the engine after it
passes through the turbocharger and the blower. See Figure 6-65. The air flows through the
aftercooler, and the coolant flows from rear to front through the aftercooler and returns through the
left-bank thermostat housing (6 and 8V engines) and to the water manifold (12 and 16V engines).
1. Water Outlet Tube 3. Cylinder Block

2. Aftercooler
Figure 6-64 Aftercooler Mounted in Cylinder Block

1. Cylinder Block 5. Turbocharger

2. Aftercooler 6. Blower Rotors
3. Blower Assembly 7. Water Outlet
4. Air Inlet Housing 8. Water Inlet
Figure 6-65 Cutaway of Aftercooler Assembly Showing Air Flow
The top deck of the cylinder block has been revised to accept the aftercooler. A water inlet
adaptor plug or cup plug replaces the rear 2-1/2 in. core plug in the bottom of the cylinder block
opening to supply water to the aftercooler. See Figure 6-66. Tool J 25275 should be used to install
or remove this adaptor plug and tool J 33420 is used to install the cup plug. See Figure 6-67.

1. Water Inlet Adaptor 3. Plug 1-1/2 in.

2. Air Box Cavity
Figure 6-66 Location of Water Inlet Adaptor Plug in Cylinder Block

1. Water Inlet Adaptor 3. Plug 1-1/2 in.

2. Air Box Cavity
Figure 6-67 Installing Aftercooler Water Plug
A limited number of 6, 8 and 16V blocks use the stainless steel cup plugs and aftercooler inlet
adaptor to seal the water holes in the air box floor of the cylinder blocks. The 2-1/2 in. cup plug
and the solid aftercooler inlet adaptor will remain available to service the blocks.
To improve seal and provide a consistent clamp load between seal and adaptor on marine
aftercoolers, Detroit Diesel Corporation has released fasteners coated with a thread locking
compound. See Figure 6-68. When removing bolts securing aftercooler assembly and adaptor,
replace uncoated bolts with coated thread bolts. See Figure 6-69. Whenever coated thread bolts
are removed and replaced, coat the threads with Loctite Dri-Loc No. 203 or equivalent.

1. Cylinder Block 5. Plain Washers

2. Aftercooler 6.12 Pt. Bolt
3. Bolt 7. Hose Connector Adaptor
4. Allen Screws 8. O-ring Seal
Figure 6-68 Typical Marine Aftercooler (6V and 8V-92)

1. Cylinder Block 6. Plain Washers

2. Aftercooler 7. Hose Connector Adaptor
3. Bolt 8. Gasket
4. O-ring Seal 9. Adaptor
5. Hose Adaptor Bolts 10. Allen Screw
Figure 6-69 Typical Marine Aftercooler (12V and 16V-92)
6.8.1 Repair or Replacement of Turbocharger Aftercooler

See Figure 6-70.

Figure 6-70 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Turbocharger Aftercooler
6.8.2 Removal of Turbocharger Aftercooler
Remove the aftercooler as follows:


2. Drain the block.
NOTE:
Some coolant may remain in the cooler if only the radiator is drained.
3. Loosen the two 7/16 in.-14 x 5-1/4 in. attaching bolts, and lift the turbocharger from the
air inlet adaptor. See Figure 6-71.
1. Air Box Cavity 6. Bolt

2. Water Inlet Adaptor 7. Lock Washer
3. O-ring Seals 8. Water Outlet Tube
4. Aftercooler 9. Gasket
5. Aftercooler Mounting Bolt
Figure 6-71 Removal and Installation of Aftercooler
4. Remove the air inlet adaptor from the blower.

5. Remove the blower and any accessories attached to the blower from the cylinder block.
6. Loosen the hose clamps, and slide the cylinder block water outlet tube hose against the
thermostat housing (6 and 8V engines) or water manifold (12 and 16V engines).
7. Remove the water outlet tube from the front of the cylinder block. Discard the gasket.
8. Remove and discard the 5/16 in.-18 x 9/16 in. attaching bolts with nylon patch.
NOTICE:
Remove the aftercooler with care. The cylinder fins may be
damaged when the aftercooler is lifted from the cylinder block.
9. Lift the aftercooler from the cylinder block. Do not remove the four bolts in the top face
of the aftercooler.
10. Remove and discard the seal rings from the grooves in the water inlet and outlet tube ends
of the aftercooler.
6.8.2.1 Cleaning of Turbocharger Aftercooler
Refer to OEM.
6.8.2.2 Inspection of Turbocharger Aftercooler
Inspect the aftercooler as follows:

1. Check all cooler fins and air and water passages for plugging.
[a] Remove dirt or any other obstructions with a small brush.
[b] If fins and water passages are clear, proceed with inspection.
2. Determine whether the aftercooler core is clogged with oil, dirt, or carbon.
[a] If the aftercooler core is clogged, perform a comprehensive cleaning. Refer to section
6.8.2.1.
[b] If the aftercooler is not clogged, it may be installed. Refer to section 6.8.3.
6.8.3 Installation of Turbocharger Aftercooler
Install the aftercooler as follows:

1. Install new seal rings in the two grooves on the water inlet and outlet tube ends of the
aftercooler.

USED ENGINE OIL

2. Coat the seal rings lightly with engine oil or vegetable shortening.
NOTE:
Take care not to scratch or nick the sealing edge of the seal rings.
3. Place the aftercooler, water outlet end first, into the cylinder block opening between the
cylinders. The water inlet end of the cooler seats in the water inlet adaptor plug.
4. Install new 5/16 in.-18 x 9/16 in. attaching bolts with nylon locking patch (six bolts
- 6 and 12V or eight bolts - 8 and 16V).
NOTE:
Do not tighten the bolts until the water outlet tube-to-thermostat housing (6 or 8V engines)
or water manifold (12 and 16V engine) hose and clamps are aligned and tightened.
5. Use a new gasket and attach the water outlet tube with two 5/16 in. bolts and lock washers
to the cylinder block. Do not tighten the attaching bolts.
6. Align the water outlet tube to the thermostat housing (6 or 8V engines) or water manifold
(12 and 16V engine) with the hose and clamps. Tighten the clamps.
NOTE:
The aftercooler water outlet hose used on 16V turbocharged-aftercooled engines has
been replaced by a longer hose (2.26-2.75 in.). This eliminates coolant leak possibilities.
Aftercooler water outlet tube and water outlet elbow misalignment contributes to these
leaks. The extra hose length ensures that properly installed hoses do not leak during
engine operation.
NOTE:
When tightening coated bolts, torque to 11-14 N·m (96-120 lb-in) to ensure proper seal.
7. Tighten the two 5/16 in. water outlet tube bolts. Tighten the aftercooler attaching bolts.
8. Use a new blower to cylinder block gasket, and install the blower and any accessories
attached to the blower. Refer to section 6.5.5.
9. Attach the air inlet adaptor to the blower with the 7/16 in.-14 x 1-1/2 in. attaching bolts
and lock washers (eight bolts - 6 and 12V, ten bolt - 8 and 16V). Tighten the bolts to
62-68 N·m (46-50 lb·ft) torque.
10. Install the turbocharger. Refer to section 6.7.5.
11. Tighten the two 7/16 in.-14 x 5-1/4 in. bolts to 62-68 N·m (46-50 lb·ft) torque.


Description Page
SHOP NOTES ................................................................................................... 6-139

TEST COMPRESSOR HOUSING FOR OIL LEAK ........................................ 6-139
BLOWER DRIVE SEAL RING ........................................................................ 6-141
BLOCK MODIFICATION FOR FRONT-MOUNTED TURBOCHARGER LUBE
OIL SUPPLY LINE .................................................................................. 6-143
DRILLING PROCEDURE FOR AIR SHUTDOWN REPLACEMENT SHAFT 6-146
SPECIFICATIONS .......................................................................................... 6-150
SPECIFICATIONS .................................................................................. 6-153
TURBOCHARGER ......................................................................................... 6-153
SHOP NOTES
The following are shop note procedures:
TEST COMPRESSOR HOUSING FOR OIL LEAK
Perform the oil leak test as follows:

1. Remove the compressor housing, and inspect the back plate.
[a] If the surface is wet with oil, perform the following leak test.
[b] If the back plate is not wet with oil, reuse the turbocharger.
2. Determine that air inlet restriction is within the maximum limit. Refer to section 11.5.
3. Ensure that the turbocharger oil drain line is unrestricted.
4. Remove the air intake ducting.
5. Inspect the inside of the ducting for oil.
[a] If oil is found in the intake system, determine the source before proceeding with
the compressor seal test.
[b] If no oil is found in the intake system, proceed with the test.
6. Thoroughly remove oil from the intake.
NOTE:
Air compressor line, or a leak near an oil source such as an engine breather, are all
potential external oil sources.

7. Remove the compressor housing from the turbocharger.
8. Thoroughly clean the internal surfaces of the compressor housing, impeller cavity behind
the impeller, and the back plate annulus with suitable solvent spray.
EYE INJURY
9. Dry completely with shop air.

10. Spray the back plate annulus with a light coating of Spot-Check developer type SKD-MF,
or equivalent.
11. Install the compressor housing on the turbocharger, and reconnect the inlet and outlet
connections.
12. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
13. Operate the engine at no load at the governor limited high speed for approximately five
minutes.
14. Return the engine to low idle.
15. Stop the engine.
16. Remove the intake duct and outlet hose.
17. Remove the compressor housing.
[a] Oil streaks in the Spot-Check developer on the back plate annulus indicate oil leaks.
This surface should be completely free of oil streaks after the test.
NOTICE:
Do not operate the engine if leaks are found in the turbocharger
ducting or if the air cleaner is not filtering efficiently. Dust leaking
into the air ducting can damage the turbocharger and the engine.
[b] If leaks are detected, and oil is not entering through the intake duct, the turbocharger
may be removed from the engine and inspected for damaged components.
NOTE:
Inadequate air filtering and excessive restrictions to air and exhaust flows will adversely
affect turbocharger life and performance. Do not permit restriction levels to exceed
the specified limits. Refer to section 11.5.
[c] If this test does not show leaks, the oil seal assembly is suitable for normal operation.

BLOWER DRIVE SEAL RING
The rubber seal ring used between the blower end plate and the blower drive support can be
replaced without removing the blower, as follows:
1. Remove the clamp.
2. Cut and remove the old seal ring.
3. After thoroughly cleaning the blower drive groove area, make a square cut on a new seal
ring, and install the seal ring around the groove, with the cut at the top.
Attach the two ends of the seal ring with Loctite No. 06, or equivalent, as follows:
1. The cutting blade must be clean and free of contaminants.
NOTE:
If a razor is used, remove the protective oil film by wiping with solvent.
NOTE:
The cut ends must remain clean to achieve a satisfactory bond.
2. Make a square cut in the replacement seal.

PERSONAL INJURY
3. Apply a thin film of Loctite Super Bonder Adhesive to one of the cut ends. Shake off
excess adhesive.
NOTE:
Use adhesive sparingly and avoid contact with skin.
4. Position the seal in the blower drive groove, locating the adhesive treated end first.
5. Place the other end of the seal in the groove, and slide it into the adhesive end to make
the joint.
6. Lightly apply pressure to the joint, and hold firmly for 30 seconds.

7. To remove excess adhesive around the joint, apply a chlorinated solvent (Acetone, MEK
or Methylene Chloride) to a cloth and wipe the joint.
Continue blower seal ring installation as follows:
1. Install the plain clamp between the raised edges of the seal ring and tighten.
NOTE:
If a former seal ring (without groove) is used, it should be replaced with the current
molded (two raised edges) type seal ring.

BLOCK MODIFICATION FOR FRONT-MOUNTED TURBOCHARGER LUBE

OIL SUPPLY LINE
At the time of an out-of-frame overhaul, 6V and 8V cylinder blocks may be modified to accept a
front-mounted turbo lube oil supply line. See Figure 6-72, and proceed as follows:
1. Oil Supply Line 4. Clip

2. Washer 5. Bracket
3. Bolt 6. Nut
Figure 6-72 Turbocharger Lube Oil Supply Line Routing (6V and 8V Engines)

1. Fabricate the locating template. See Figure 6-73.
Figure 6-73 Locating Template
2. With the cylinder block completely stripped, mount the locating template on the block
dowel pins.

3. Drill a 7/16 in. hole 1-1/2 in. deep into the oil gallery at the "B" location.
4. Thread the hole with a 1/4 in. NPTF tap.
NOTE:
If an additional oil feed location is required on the opposite bank, flip the template, and
repeat the modification procedure.
EYE INJURY
NOTICE:
To avoid damage to the oil gallery do not exceed 138 kPa (20
lb/in.2)
5. Remove the oil gallery plug, and blow out all metal chips using an air hose and suitable
nozzle.
NOTE:
If the oil cooler side of the block is drilled for the turbo oil supply, pay special attention
to the area around the 1 in. cup plug that divides the vertical oil gallery between the oil
cooler inlet and outlet passages. See Figure 6-74. Remove the cup plug, and flush the

oil gallery with the air hose and a cleaning solvent in combination to ensure the removal
of all metal chips.
1. Cup Plug
Figure 6-74 Location of Cup Plug in Oil Gallery
NOTICE:
Neglecting to install the cup plug allows lube oil to completely
bypass both the filter and the oil cooler. This unfiltered and
improperly cooled oil can seriously damage the engine.
6. After cleaning the block thoroughly, apply Loctite 567 pipe sealant with Teflon (or
equivalent) to the oil gallery plug and the cup plug and install. Torque the oil gallery
plug to 105-115 N·m (78-85 lb·ft). Install the cup plug to a depth of 86.6 mm (3.40 in.)
with tool J 33420.
DRILLING PROCEDURE FOR AIR SHUTDOWN REPLACEMENT SHAFT
Whenever a replacement air shutdown valve shaft is installed, the shaft must be match-drilled
to the cam and the flapper valve in order to ensure positive air shutdown operation. Failure to
properly index the shaft can result in improper flapper valve operation and engine run-on at
shutdown. Use the following procedure to drill the air shutdown valve shaft:
1. Install a 1/8 in. drill bit in the chuck of a drill press.

2. Locate and align the bit through the existing hole in the shutdown cam. See Figure 6-75.
1. Cam
Figure 6-75 Aligning Drill Bit and Drilling Shaft
3. Lock the cam in the holding fixture on the drill press, and withdraw the bit.
4. Insert the replacement shaft into the cam until the end of the shaft is recessed 1/8 in.
from the end of the cam.
5. Start the drill, and bore a hole through the shaft.
6. Withdraw the drill bit, install the pin handle through the hole, and remove the shaft from
the drill press.
7. Insert the shaft into the shutdown housing bore, and install the spacer on the end of the
shaft.

8. Place a 0.015 in. feeler gage between the housing and spacer, and mark the shaft with a
center punch inserted into the existing hole in the spacer. See Figure 6-76.
1. Feeler Gage 3. Air Shutdown Housing

2. Punch
Figure 6-76 Center Punch Shaft though Spacer Hole
9. Remove the shaft from the housing.

10. Locate and align the 1/8 in. drill bit through the hole in the spacer, and lock the spacer in
the holding fixture on the drill press. Withdraw the drill bit.
11. Insert the shaft through the spacer, locate the center punched mark, and drill a hole
through the shaft.
12. Remove the shaft and spacer from the drill press.
13. Assemble the shaft, seal ring spring, flapper valve, and spacer in the housing.
14. If using a new valve, center punch four holes in approximately the same position as on the
old valve. If reusing the old valve, center punch four holes just inside the existing holes.

15. Align the notch on the cam with the latch, and hold in this position with a piece of stiff
wire. See Figure 6-77.
1. Cam 3. Wire
2. Latch
Figure 6-77 Cam and Latch Wired to Prevent Movement
16. Place the housing on the drill press.

17. With the valve held in the wide open run position, align the 1/8 in. drill bit with the
marks center punched on the valve.

18. Drill through the valve and shaft. See Figure 6-78.
1. Air Shutdown Housing 2. Cover Plate
Figure 6-78 Drilling Valve-to-Shaft Holes
19. Install the retaining pins to hold the valve to the shaft.
20. Clean the air shutdown assembly thoroughly, and check for proper operation before
installing it on the engine.
SPECIFICATIONS
Listed in Table 6-2 are the specifications.
Engine Parts
Blower
0.0127 mm 0.0635 mm 0.1016 mm
Backlash (Timing Gears)
(0.0005 in.) (0.0025 in.) (0.0040 in.)
Oil Seal (Below End 0.0508 mm 0.2032 mm
-
Plate Surface) (0.0020 in.) (0.0080 in.)
Oil Strainer (Below End 0.381 mm
- -
Plate Surface) (0.0150 in.)
Dowel Pin (Projection
8.128 mm
Beyond Inside Face of - -
(0.3200 in.)
Front End Plate)

Engine Parts
Dowel Pin (Projection
8.128 mm
Beyond Inside Face of - -
(0.3200 in.)
Rear End Plate)
Clearances:
Rotor-to-End Plate 0.1778 mm
- -
(Gear End) (0.0070 in.)
Rotor-to-End Plate (Front 0.3048 mm
- -
End - 6V-92) (0.0120 in.)
Rotor-to-End Plate (Front 0.3556 mm
- -
End - 8V-92 and 16V-92) (0.0140 in.)
Rotor-to-Housing (Inlet 0.381 mm
- -
Side) (0.0150 in.)
Rotor-to-Housing (Outlet 0.1016 mm
- -
Side) (0.0040 in.)
Trailing Edge of RH Helix
0.1016 mm 0.2032 mm 0.2032 mm
Rotor to Leading Edge
(0.0040 in.) (0.0080 in.) (0.0080 in.)
of LH Helix Rotor
Leading Edge of RH Helix
0.254 mm
Rotor to Leading Edge - -
(0.0100 in.)
ofLH Helix Rotor
T18A40 and T18A90
Turbochargers
(Airesearch)
0.1016 mm 0.2286 mm
End Play - Rotating Shaft -
(0.0040 in.) (0.0090 in.)
Radial Movement - 0.0762 mm 0.1778 mm
-
Rotating Shaft (0.0030 in.) (0.0070 in.)
Turbine Wheel Shaft
Journal Bearing:
24.7728 mm
Inside Diameter - -
(0.6272 in.)
24.8412 mm
Outside Diameter - -
(0.9780 in.)
Journal Diameter - Turbine 15.8674mm
- -
Wheel Shaft (0.6247 in.)
Bearing Bore - (Center 24.9809 mm
- -
Housing) Inside Diameter (0.9835 in.)
Back Plate Seal Bore 17.4879 mm
- -
Inside Diameter (0.6885 in.)
Thrust Collar:
7.5946 mm
Thickness - -
(0.2990 in.)
Bore - Inside Diameter 9.5453 mm
- -
(18A40) (0.3758 in.)
Bore - Inside Diameter 11.1506 mm
- -
(18A90) (0.4390 in.)
Thrust Spacer:

Engine Parts
26.0715 mm
Outside Diameter (18A40) - -
(0.6715 in.)
21.844 mm
Outside Diameter (18A90) - -
(0.8600 in.)
1.7653 mm
Ring Groove Width - -
(0.0695 in.)
Thrust Washer, Inboard 2.286 mm
- -
Thickness (0.0900 in.)
Compressor Wheel Bore:
9.4971 mm
Inside Diameter (18A40) - -
(0.3739 in.)
11.1201 mm
Inside Diameter (18A90) - -
(0.4378 in.)
TV81 Turbocharger
(Airesearch)
0.0762 mm 0.254 mm
End Play - Rotating Shaft -
(0.0030 in.) (0.0100 in.)
Radial Movement - 0.0762 mm 0.1778 mm
-
Rotating Shaft (0.0030 in.) (0.0070 in.)
Turbine Wheel Shaft
Journal Bearing:
15.9207 mm 15.9309 mm
Inside Diameter -
(0.6268 in.) (0.6272 in.)
24.8463 mm 24.8589 mm
Outside Diameter -
(0.9782 in.) (0.9787 in.)
Journal Diameter - Turbine 15.875 mm 15.885 mm
-
Wheel Shaft (0.6250 in.) (0.6254 in.)
Bearing Bore - (Center 24.9606 mm 24.9733 mm 24.9987 mm
Housing) Inside Diameter (0.9827 in.) (0.9832 in.) (0.9842 in.)
Back Plate Seal Bore 17.4625 mm 17.4879 mm 17.5133 mm
Inside Diameter (0.6875 in.) (0.6885 in.) (0.6895 in.)
Thrust Collar:
7.5946 mm 7.62 mm 7.5438 mm
Thickness
(0.2990 in.) (0.3000 in.) (0.2970 in.)
9.5352 mm 9.5453 mm 9.5961 mm
Bore - Inside Diameter
(0.3754 in.) (0.3758 in.) (0.3778 in.)
Thrust Spacer:
26.0715 mm 17.0815 mm 17.0307 mm
Outside Diameter
(0.06715 in.) (0.6725 in.) (0.6705 in.)
1.7399 mm 1.7653 mm 1.8161 mm
Ring Groove Width
(0.0685 in.) (0.0695 in.) (0.0715 in.)
Thrust Washer, Inboard 2.86 mm 2.3368 mm
-
Thickness (0.0900 in.) (0.0920 in.)
Compressor Wheel Bore 9.4894 mm 9.4971 mm 9.5225 mm
Inside Diameter (0.3736 in.) (0.3739 in.) (0.3749 in.)

These limits also apply to oversize and undersize parts.
Table 6-2 Clearances and Wear Limits

Air Inlet Housing Adaptor-to-Blower
3/8-16 22-27 N·m (16-20 lb·ft)
Housing Bolt
Air Inlet Housing-to-Adaptor Bolt 3/8-16 22-27 N·m (16-20 lb·ft)
Blower Side Angle Bolt 3/8-16 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft)
Blower End Plate-to-Cylinder
7/16-14 54-61 N·m (40-45 lb·ft)
Block Bolt
Blower Rotor Gear Retainer Bolt
1/2-20 136-150 N·m (100-110 lb·ft)
(Large Bearing Blower)
Fuel Pump Drive Disc Bolt 1/2-20 75-88 N·m (55-65 lb·ft)
TURBOCHARGER
Listed in Table 6-4 are the turbocharger specifications.

"V" Band Coupling Locknut
1/4-28 12-15 N·m (110-130 lb·ft)
(Compressor)
"V" Band Coupling Locknut
1/4-28 17-19 N·m (152-168 lb·ft)
(Turbocharger TV71-TV81)
Back Plate-to-Center Housing Bolts 5/16-18 10-12 N·m (90-110 lb·ft)
Turbine Housing-to-Center
5/16-18 11-15 N·m (100-130 lb·ft)
Housing Bolts
Turbine Housing-to-Center Housing
5/16-18 18-21 N·m (160-190 lb·ft)
Bolts (TH08A)
Compressor Wheel Locknut (18A40) 3/8-24 14-17 N·m (125-150 lb·ft)
Compressor Wheel Locknut (18A90) 7/16-20 14-17 N·m (125-150 lb·ft)
Table 6-4 Turbocharger Specifications

7 EXHAUST SYSTEM
Section Page
7.1 EXHAUST SYSTEM ............................................................................... 7-3

7.2 EXHAUST MANIFOLD ............................................................................ 7-5
7.3 EXHAUST MANIFOLD (WATER-COOLED) ............................................ 7-11
7.1 EXHAUST SYSTEM
Fan and radiator cooled engines are equipped with an air-cooled exhaust manifold. See Figure
7-1. A water-cooled exhaust manifold is provided for engines incorporating a heat exchanger or
keel cooling system.
1. Outlet Flanges 4. Tee Adaptor

2. Exhaust Manifold 5. Exhaust Tube
3. Turbocharger 6. Fan
Figure 7-1 Typical 6V or 8V Turbocharged Engine
The outlet flange may be located at the end or at the mid-section of the exhaust manifold,
depending upon the installation requirements. A flexible exhaust connection or a muffler may be
attached to the outlet flange.

7.1 EXHAUST SYSTEM
The exhaust manifold is attached to studs located between the exhaust ports and the outer side
of the two end ports in the cylinder head. Special washers and nuts secure the manifold to the
cylinder head.

7.2 EXHAUST MANIFOLD
The cast iron air-cooled manifold has changes in cross-section and blends from each end toward
the center flange to balance exhaust flow. The exhaust tubes attach to the flange leading to a
turbocharger or muffler. See Figure 7-2.
1. Nut 6. Cylinder Head

2. Bevel Washer 7. Exhaust Tubes
3. Mounting Bracket 8. Flange Seal
4. Gasket 9. Clamp
5. Stud 10. Exhaust Manifold
Figure 7-2 Typical Cast Exhaust Manifold Mounting

The current hold-down crab is made of hardened steel and is larger than the former hold-down
crab. This minimizes wear and gouging of the manifold, crab, and cylinder head mating surfaces.
The former and the current hold-down crab are interchangeable on an engine. Only the current
crab is serviced.
The current special washer is used at the center portions of the exhaust manifolds. The current
washer accurately controls the seating area for the 7/16 in. nut or bolt. Only the current special
washer is serviced.
7.2.1 Repair or Replacement of Exhaust Manifold

See Figure 7-3.

Figure 7-3 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Exhaust Manifold
7.2.2 Removal of Exhaust Manifold
Usually, the exhaust manifold is removed with the cylinder head. However, when the exhaust
manifold gaskets only need replacing, the manifold may be removed without removing the
cylinder head as follows:

1. Loosen the flange clamp and disconnect the exhaust tube from the exhaust manifold flange.
2. Loosen and remove the nuts and bevel washers which secure the exhaust manifold to
the cylinder head.
NOTE:
One nut and washer should be loosened and left on one center stud until all other nuts
and washers have been removed.
3. Support the manifold, and remove the nut and washer from the center stud.
4. Lift the manifold away from cylinder head.
5. Remove the manifold gaskets.
7.2.2.1 Cleaning of Exhaust Manifold
Prior to inspection, clean the exhaust manifold as follows:

1. Remove the loose scale and carbon from the exhaust manifold internal walls.
2. Remove old gasket material from the cylinder head and exhaust manifold bolting flanges.
7.2.2.2 Inspection of Exhaust Manifold
Inspect the exhaust manifold as follows:

1. Visually inspect the exhaust manifold studs for damage.
[a] If damaged, replace the studs.
NOTE:
New studs should be torqued to 34-54 N·m (25-40 lb·ft).

2. Inspect the exhaust outlet piping for dents, holes, and loose clamps or deteriorated seals.
[a] Repair or replace, if necessary.
[b] If not in need or repair or replacement, reuse the parts.
7.2.3 Installation of Exhaust Manifold
Install the exhaust manifold as follows:

NOTICE:
Ensure the internal manifold walls are clean to eliminate possible
turbocharger damage.
1. Place new gaskets over the studs and against the cylinder head.
NOTE:
Do not reuse metal-clad gaskets.
NOTE:
When installing the metal clad exhaust manifold gasket(s) be sure the crimped side of
the gasket faces the cylinder head. See Figure 7-4.
1. Crimp 2. Gasket
Figure 7-4 Metal Clad Exhaust Manifold Gasket
2. Position the exhaust manifold over the studs and against the gasket.
NOTE:
Ensure the locating pads on the exhaust manifold rest on the cylinder block locating pads.
3. Install the bevel washers and nuts on the studs, and draw the exhaust manifold up against
the gasket.
4. Position the bevel washers so that the outer diameter rests on the manifold, and the center
crown is next to the nut.

5. Tighten the exhaust manifold stud nuts from the center of the exhaust manifold outward,
alternating toward either end. Torque the nuts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft).
6. Connect the exhaust tube to the exhaust manifold flange, ensuring the seal is properly
located.
7. Tighten the flange clamp connecting the exhaust manifold to the outlet tube.

7.3 EXHAUST MANIFOLD (WATER-COOLED)
The one-piece water-cooled manifold is cast with an integral water jacket surrounding the exhaust
chamber. The exhaust chamber diameter increases uniformly from one end to the other where it
terminates into a flange where an elbow and flexible exhaust connection is attached.
A portion of the engine coolant is bypassed from the rear of the cylinder block into the rear end
of the jacket surrounding the exhaust manifold. It is discharged from the forward end through a
tube and into the thermostat housing. A drain cock is installed in the bottom of the manifold for
draining the water jacket. A plug is provided in the bottom of the exhaust manifold elbow for
draining moisture condensed from the exhaust gases. See Figure 7-5.

1. Nut (4) 9. Manifold Bolt

2. Plain Washer (3) 10. Lock Washer
3. Drain Cock 11. Water Cooled Exhaust Manifold
4. Cover Plate (2) 12. Manifold Gasket
5. Gasket (3) 13. Rocker Cover
6. Short Stud (5) 14. Exhaust Elbow
7. Water Tube Elbow 15. Flange Gasket
8. Long Stud (2)
View shown in illustration, front of engine.
Figure 7-5 Typical Water Cooled Exhaust Manifold Assembly
Former model 8122-7400 marine engines were built with four-bolt design exhaust manifolds,
covers, connectors, gaskets, and turbo exhaust inlet elbows. This design was replaced with the
current six-bolt design components. The six bolt design is standard on all 12V-TA marine engines.

To improve water-cooled exhaust manifold sealing, a new manifold gasket was released. This
change went into effect in September, 1993. The current gasket is gray graphite colored.
Only current gaskets are serviced. The current gaskets do not mix with the former flanges. If
necessary, replace the center connector or exhaust riser with the current flange, connector, and
riser. Because the current gasket does not have the beaded area around the water transfer slots, do
not use this gasket on double-block engines which have the former small diameter 165.10 mm
(6.5 in.) manifold flange, connector, and risers. The Manifold flange and gasket outside diameters
increased from 165.1–174.752 mm (6.5–6.88 in.). The flange size change to these components
took place with engines built in January of 1989.
Only the six-bolt design parts and the four-bolt design connector, cover, and gasket are serviced.
When a former manifold or turbo exhaust inlet elbow requires replacement, all four-bolt design
parts must be replaced with six-bolt design parts.
New air bleed lines are used to improve deaeration of 6V forward plan marine engine cooling
systems. The new lines permit faster entrained air removal from the coolant. This results in more
uniform temperature gradients in the water-cooled exhaust manifolds, helping extend component
life. Because of the improved deaeration that results from this change, DDC recommends
retrofitting all existing 6V marine models with the new system any time engines are in for major
service. See Figure 7-6 and see Figure 7-7.

1. Adaptor 8926232 (Under Tee) 10. Hose Assembly 5116929

2. RB Thermostat HSG 11. LB Thermostat HSG
3. Hose Assembly 5136052 12. Elbow 8924146
4. Elbow 8924149 13. Tee 8924178
5. RB Exhaust Manifold 14. Connector 8924145
6. RB Cylinder Head 15. Heat Exchanger Tank
7. LB Cylinder Head 16. 8924146 Elbow
8. LB Exhaust Manifold 17. Existing Hose 5131604
9. Elbow 8924149 18. Tee 8925003
View shown in illustration, front of engine.
Figure 7-6 Dearation Line Routing 6V-92TA Port Engine

1. Tee 178996 9. Elbow 8924149

2. RB Thermostat HSG 10. Hose Assembly 5116929
3. Hose Assembly 5136052 11. LB Thermostat HSG
4. Elbow 8924149 12. Connector 8924145
5. RB Exhaust Manifold 13. Heat Exhaust Tank
6. RB Cylinder Head 14. Connector 8924145
7. LB Cylinder Head 15. Hose Assembly 5109271
8. LB Exhaust Manifold
Figure 7-7 Dearation Line Routing 6V-92TA Starboard Engine
7.3.1 Repair or Replacement of Exhaust Manifold (Water-Cooled)

See Figure 7-8.

Figure 7-8 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Exhaust Manifold

(Water-Cooled)

7.3.2 Removal of Exhaust Manifold (Water-Cooled) Former Design

using Studs
Usually, the exhaust manifold is removed with the cylinder head. However, when the exhaust
manifold gasket only needs replacing, the manifold may be removed without removing the
cylinder head as follows:
2. Disconnect the water inlet and the water outlet tubes from the exhaust manifold.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the flange.
4. Loosen and remove the nuts and bevel washers which secure the exhaust manifold to
the cylinder head.
NOTE:
One nut and washer should be loosened and left on one of the center until all other
nuts and washers have been removed.
5. Support the manifold, and remove the nut and washer from the center stud.
6. Lift the manifold off the studs and away from the cylinder head.
7. Remove the manifold gasket.
7.3.2.1 Cleaning of Exhaust Manifold (Water-Cooled)
Prior to inspection, clean the exhaust manifold as follows:

1. Remove the loose scale and carbon from the exhaust manifold internal walls with a wire
brush.
2. Remove old gasket material from the cylinder head and exhaust manifold bolting flange.
7.3.2.2 Inspection of Exhaust Manifold Water-Cooled (Former Design

using Studs)
Inspect the exhaust manifold follows:

1. Visually inspect the exhaust manifold studs for damage.
[a] If damage to the studs is found, replace the studs.
NOTE:
Torque studs in to 34-54 N·m (25-40 lb·ft).

2. Inspect the exhaust outlet piping for dents, holes, and loose clamps or deteriorated seals.
[a] If dents, holes, loose claps or deteriorated seals are found, replace parts as necessary.
[b] If no dents, holes, loose claps or deteriorated seals are found, reuse the parts.

7.3.3 Installation of Exhaust Manifold Water-Cooled (Former Design

using Studs)
Install the exhaust manifold as follows:

1. Place a gasket over the studs and against the cylinder head.
NOTE:
Ensure the locating pads on the exhaust manifold rests on the cylinder block locating
pads.
2. Position the exhaust manifold over the studs and against the gasket.
3. Install the bevel washers and nuts on the studs, and draw the exhaust manifold against
the gasket.
4. Position the bevel washers so the outer diameter rests on the manifold and the crown
center is next to the nut.
5. Tighten the exhaust manifold stud nuts from the center of the exhaust manifold outward,
alternating towards either end. Torque the nuts to 41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft).
7.3.4 Installation of Exhaust Manifold Water-Cooled (Current Design

using Bolts, 6V and 8V)
Install the 6V and 8V exhaust manifold as follows:

1. Position new exhaust manifold on locator pads of the cylinder block, and start the bolts.
2. With new gaskets, assemble manifold to head, and tighten bolts to 14-20 N·m (10-15 lb·ft)
initial torque.
NOTE:
When using the new gasket, ensure the connector and riser size are the larger
174.88 mm (6.88 in.) diameter. The new gaskets cannot be mixed with the old flanges.
3. Using a star pattern, tighten manifold-to-riser joint nuts to 88-95 N·m (65-70 lb·ft) torque.
4. Repeat torque to ensure proper fastening

5. Tighten manifold-to-head bolts to 62-68 N·m (46-50 lb·ft) final torque. See Figure 7-9
Figure 7-9 Torque Sequence for 3-Cylinder Manifold
Figure 7-10 Torque Sequence for 4-Cylinder Manifold
6. Tighten the crossover, if used, followed by any supporting brackets.

7.3.5 Installation of Exhaust Manifold Water-Cooled (Current Design

12V and 16V Engines)
Install the 12V and 16V manifold as follows:
NOTE:
Assemble manifolds before installing on the engine.
1. Install new studs in manifold joint face.

2. With a new flange gasket, assemble manifold halves.
3. Using a star pattern, tighten nuts to 88-95 N·m (65-70 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
Joint faces (manifold-to-head and machined surface on bottom of manifold) must be
held in alignment while torquing.
4. Repeat torque to insure proper fastening.

5. Install manifold assembly to head, install bolts, and tighten to 14-20 N·m (10-15 lb·ft)
initial torque.
6. Install new manifold end gasket over studs, install riser, and thread bolts into brackets.
7. Install manifold-to-riser nuts.
8. Tighten bracket bolts to 14-20 N·m (10-15 lb·ft) torque.
9. Using a star pattern, tighten manifold-to-riser joint nuts to 88-95 N·m (65-70 lb·ft) torque.
Repeat torque.

10. Tighten manifold-to-head bolts to 62-68 N·m (46-50 lb·ft) final torque. See Figure 7-11
Figure 7-11 Torque Sequence for Two 3-Cylinder Manifolds with Connector
SIB3-D-91 Figure 5
Figure 7-12 Torque Sequence for Two 4-Cylinder Manifolds with Connector
SIB3-D-91 Figure 6

11. Tighten end cover bolts (where used) to 75-81 N·m (55-60 lb·ft) torque.
12. Torque remaining bracket bolts.If it is not possible to install the dual manifolds as a
complete assembly, parts can be assembled on the engine. Proceed as follows:
13. Tighten the manifold-to-head bolts to 14-20 N·m (10-15 lb·ft) initial torque.
14. Using a star pattern, tighten the connector flange and riser stud nuts to the specified torque.
15. Repeat torque to insure proper fastening.
16. Torque the manifold-to-head bolts.Complete installation as follows:
17. If removed from the manifold, install the exhaust flange using a new gasket.
NOTICE:
Do not allow exhaust piping to impose excessive loads on the
turbocharger.
18. Connect the exhaust pipe to the flange.

19. Connect the water inlet and outlet tubes to the manifold.
20. Fill the cooling system, and check for leaks. Refer to section 13.12.

8 ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
Section Page
8.1 BATTERY-CHARGING ALTERNATOR .................................................... 8-3

8.2 STARTING MOTOR ................................................................................. 8-12
8.4 INSTRUMENTS ...................................................................................... 8-20
8.5 ENGINE PROTECTIVE SYSTEMS ......................................................... 8-24
8.6 ALARM SYSTEM .................................................................................... 8-46
8.7 OVERSPEED GOVERNOR ..................................................................... 8-53
8.1 BATTERY-CHARGING ALTERNATOR
The battery-charging circuit consists of an alternator, battery, and wiring. The battery-charging
alternator provides electrical current for maintaining the battery in a charged condition and
supplies sufficient current to carry normal electrical load requirements up to the rated alternator
capacity.
The hinge-mounted alternating current self-rectifying alternator, mounted at the rear of the
engine, is belt-driven. See Figure 8-1. The alternator drive pulley is keyed to a shaft which is
coupled to the blower drive gear.
1. Bracket 3. Adjusting Strap

2. Alternator
Figure 8-1 Typical Hinge-Mounted Alternator (Belt-Driven)
An adequate alternator drive ratio is necessary for an engine equipped with extra electrical
accessories and operates for extended periods at idle speeds. Diodes, built into the slip ring end
frame, rectify the three phase AC voltage to provide DC voltage at the alternator battery terminal,
eliminating the need for an external rectifier. The alternator is also available in various sizes and
types, depending upon the specific application.
The access hole permitting the external voltage regulator adjustment has been eliminated
on current alternators. To adjust the voltage setting on the current alternators, refer to the
manufacturers' service information for complete adjustment procedure.

The flange-mounted alternator is coupling-driven through a drive hub attached to the blower drive
gear. It is a self load limiting alternator with a fully adjustable, solid state integral regulator. It is
designed with slow speed characteristics, which allow lower rotational alternator speed without
sacrificing amperage output at idle or top speed. The alternator shaft may be rotated in either
direction without affecting the output or unit cooling. Six silicon diodes, mounted in heat sinks,
convert alternating current from the delta wound stator into direct current. See Figure 8-2.
1. Alternator 2. Flywheel Housing
Figure 8-2 Typical Flange-Mounted Alternator (Beltless)
The brushes and integral voltage regulator are encased in a waterproof housing that may be
removed for replacement or inspection.

Maintain proper drive belt tension. Refer to section 13.18. Replace worn or frayed belts. Belts
should be replaced as a set when there is more than one belt on the alternator drive.
NOTE:
When installing or adjusting an alternator drive belt, ensure that the bolt at the alternator
pivot point is properly tightened, as well as the bolt in the adjusting slot.
Alternator bearings are permanently lubricated. There are no external oil fittings.
As of June 3, 1991 a new camshaft gear bolt locking plate, attaching bolts, and washer are used
on all 6V and 8V coach engines equipped with Delco Remy 50DN alternators. The locking plate
and attaching parts virtually eliminate the possibility of the camshaft gear retaining bolt losing
torque after installation. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for further details.
New sealing components are provided in flange-mounted Leece-Neville® alternators used in
marine applications. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for further details.
Avoid reversing the battery connections.
ELECTRICAL SHOCK
To avoid injury from electrical shock, use care when
connecting battery cables. The magnetic switch studs are
at battery voltage.
ELECTRICAL SHOCK
To avoid injury from electrical shock, do not touch battery
terminals, alternator terminals, or wiring cables while the
engine is operating.
PERSONAL INJURY
system.

ELECTRICAL SHOCK
To avoid injury from electrical shock, use care when
connecting battery cables. The magnetic switch studs are
at battery voltage.
NOTICE:
Precautions must be taken when working around alternators.
The diodes and transistors in the alternator circuit are sensitive
and can easily be destroyed. Take the following precautions
when handling the alternator:
□ Avoid grounding or shorting the output wires or the field
wires between the alternator and the regulator. Never run
an alternator on an open circuit.
□ Grounding an alternator's output or wire terminals, (which
are always "hot" regardless of whether or not the engine
is running), or accidental reversing of the battery polarity
will destroy the diodes. Some voltage regulators provide
protection against some of these circumstances. However,
it is recommended that extreme care be used.
□ Never disconnect the battery while an alternator is in
operation. The magnetic field collapse will momentarily
generate high voltage and current, damaging the diodes.
□ On marine applications, do not switch from one set of
batteries to the other while the engine is in operation. This
will momentarily disconnect the batteries, and result in
damage to the alternator diodes.
□ If a booster battery is used, correctly connect the batteries
(negative to negative and positive to positive). Failure
to connect batteries correctly will cause damage to the
alternator.
□ Never use a fast charger with the battery connected or as
a booster for battery output. Never attempt to polarize the
alternator.
□ The alternator diodes are also sensitive to heat and care
must be exercised to prevent damage to them from
soldering irons, etc.
□ If faulty operation of an alternator occurs on an engine
equipped with an insulated starting motor, check to ensure
that a ground strap is present and is correctly installed.

A dual internal gear driven high output alternator is available for some applications. See Figure
8-3.
1. High Output Alternator 3. Oil Supply Line

2. Adaptor Plate 4. Supply Spill Line
Figure 8-3 Dual Internal Gear Driven High Output Alternator
8.1.1 Repair or Replacement of Battery-Charging Alternator
Refer repairs and overhaul work to a manufacturer authorized repair station. Order replacement
parts through the manufacturer outlets. Repair service and parts are available for alternators
manufactured by Delco-Remy Division through AC Delco branches and repair stations.
8.1.2 Removal of Battery-Charging Alternator
Remove the battery-charging alternator as follows:

PERSONAL INJURY
system.
1. Disconnect the cables at the battery supply.

2. If the alternator has a separately mounted regulator and field relay, disconnect all other
leads from the alternator, and tag each one to ensure correct installation.
3. Loosen the mounting bolts and the adjusting strap bolt. Remove the drive belts.
4. While supporting the alternator, remove the adjusting strap bolt, hardened washer, and
lock washer.
5. Remove the mounting bolts, hardened washer, lock washer, and nuts.
NOTICE:
The fan guard, which includes an oil seal, should not be
separated from the beltless alternator until the alternator half of
the coupling is removed. Any attempt to separate the fan guard
from the alternator could damage the oil seal.
NOTICE:
While lifting the alternator use care to protect the alternator and
fan guard assembly from damage.
6. On beltless alternators, lift the alternator and fan guard from the mounting adaptor as a unit.
7. On belt-driven alternators, carefully remove the alternator only.
8. On beltless alternators, loosen the retaining nut, and remove the coupling hub keyed to
the alternator shaft.
9. If replacing the belt-driven alternator, remove the pulley assembly. If replacing the beltless
alternator, separate the alternator from the flange mounting.
10. Remove the alternator flange mounting adaptor from the flywheel housing, if necessary.
8.1.2.1 Inspection of Battery-Charging Alternator
Inspect the alternator as follows:

1. Inspect the drive coupling and hub for wear at the seal surface and the drive tangs.
[a] If excessively worn, replace the drive coupling and hub. Refer to section 8.1.3.

2. Inspect the drive coupling and hub for oil leaks.

[a] If oil leaks are found, replace the oil seal in the fan guard. Refer to section 8.1.3.
[b] If oil seals are worn or damaged, replace the oil seal in the fan guard. Refer to section
8.1.3.
[c] If no oil leaks or damage is found, proceed with inspection.
3. Inspect the alternator housing and flange adaptor at the mounting bolt holes for cracks.
[a] If cracked, replace the housing and flange adaptor. Refer to section 8.1.3.
[b] If not cracked, proceed with inspection.
4. Inspect the pilot diameter for damage, cracks, or distortion.
[a] If damaged, cracked, or distorted, replace the pilot. Refer to section 8.1.3.
[b] If not damaged, cracked, or distorted, refer to section 8.1.3.
8.1.3 Installation of Battery-Charging Alternator
Install the battery-charging alternator as follows:

1. Install the drive pulley, if removed. Tighten the pulley retaining nut to 68-81 N·m (50-60
lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
If the pulley was not removed, check the retaining nut for proper torque.
NOTICE:
To avoid gear damage, ensure the alternator is properly fitted to
the adaptor before bolting it in place.
2. Position the alternator on the mounting brackets, with lock washers and hardened washers
in place, start the bolts through the bolt holes in the alternator end frames.
NOTE:
Special hardened, plain washers seat in the six adaptor counterbored bolt holes, and the
current gasket has a position identification tab.
3. If nuts are used, insert the bolts through the bolt holes in the mounting bracket and
alternator end frame.
NOTE:
Check the lock washers, hardened washers and nuts to ensure they are in their proper
locations.
4. If the fan guard and hub were removed from a beltless alternator, engage the mating pilot
diameters to locate the fan guard on the alternator.
5. Lubricate the seal diameter on the coupling hub and the seal lip.

6. Install the coupling hub on the shaft. Tighten to 95-108 N·m (70-80 lb·ft) torque.
NOTE:
If the fan guard and hub were not removed, check the retaining nut for proper torque.
7. Align the threaded hole in the drive end frame adjusting lug with the adjusting strap slot.
8. Start the bolt with the lock washer and hardened washer, through the adjustithng strap
slot, and into the threaded hole in the alternator end frame.
9. On beltless alternators, align the bolt holes in the fan guard with the mounting holes
in the alternator housing.
10. Support the alternator assembly against the mounting flange adaptor. Use a new gasket.
11. Install the three 3/8 in.-16 x 3-1/2 in. bolts, lock washers, and hardened washers through
the alternator housing and fan guard mounting holes in the mounting adaptor. Tighten the
12. Place the drive belts in the pulley grooves.
13. On belt driven alternators, adjust the alternator belt tension. Refer to section 13.20.
14. Tighten the bolts. See Figure 8-4.
1. Flex Handle 3. Torque Wrench

2. Strap Wrench
Figure 8-4 Tightening Alternator Pulley Retaining Nut

15. Attach the wires and cables.
NOTE:
Ensure each one is correctly installed in its previous location on the alternator. Keep
all connections clean and tight.
16. Connect the oil feed line, if used, to the alternator.

8.2 STARTING MOTOR
8.2 STARTING MOTOR
The starting motor is mounted on the flywheel housing. See Figure 8-5. When the starting circuit
is closed, a small drive pinion on the armature shaft engages the teeth on the engine flywheel ring
gear to crank the engine. When the engine starts, the drive pinion is disengaged preventing the
armature from overspeeding and damaging the starting motor.
1. Long Bolt 7. Flywheel Housing

2. Support Bracket 8. Gasket
3. Short Bolt 9. Starter Mounting Bolts
4. Cylinder Block Support Bracket 10. Starter Motor Assembly
5. Lock Washer 11. Nut
6. Solenoid
Figure 8-5 Typical Starter Assembly

For information on the mounting of a starter auxiliary magnetic switch, refer to section
8.2.1 Repair or Replacement of Starting Motor
The starting motor is not a serviceable item. Refer to OEM guidelines or an authorized Detroit
Diesel distributor for service recommendations.
8.2.2 Removal of Starting Motor
Remove the starting motor as follows:

1. Remove the ground strap or cable from the battery or the cable from the starting motor
solenoid.
2. Tape the cable end to prevent battery discharge from a direct short.
3. Disconnect the starting motor cables and solenoid wiring.
NOTE:
Tag each lead to ensure correct connections when the starting motor is installed.
4. Support the motor, and remove the three bolts and lock washers that secure it to the
flywheel housing.
5. Pull the motor forward to remove it from the flywheel housing.
8.2.2.1 Inspection of Starting Motor
Inspect the starting motor as follows:

Check the starting motor in accordance with the Delco-Remy "Cranking Circuit" maintenance
handbook. Refer to OEM for details.
8.2.2.2 Repositioning Solenoid
When repositioning of the solenoid is required on a service replacement starting motor, proceed
as follows:
1. If a twelve hole starter mounting flange is used, remove the six socket head screws and
six neoprene plugs.
NOTICE:
The solenoid must never be located below the centerline of the
starter. Dust, oil, moisture, and foreign material can collect and
cause solenoid failures.
2. Turn the nose housing to the required position.

8.2 STARTING MOTOR
3. Install the six socket head screws, with the short screw in the shallow hole nearest the
solenoid and six neoprene plugs if a twelve hole starter mounting flange is used.
4. Tighten the screws to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.
8.2.3 Installation of Starting Motor
Install the starting motor as follows:

1. Position the motor to the flywheel housing.
2. Install the three 5/8 in.-11 bolts and lock washers. Tighten to 186-200 N·m (137-147 lb·ft)
torque with a cast iron flywheel housing and to 129-143 N·m (95-105 lb·ft) with an
aluminum flywheel housing.
3. Keep all electrical connections clean and tight. Install the wiring terminal leads to the
starting motor and the solenoid switch.
4. Tighten the No. 10-32 connections to 2-3 N·m (16-30 lb·in) torque and the 1/2 in.-13
connections to 27-34 N·m (20-25 lb·ft) torque.
5. Remove the tape from the cable end.
6. Attach the ground strap or cable to the battery, or attach the cable to the starting motor
solenoid.
After installing the motor and repositioning the solenoid as necessary, proceed as follows:
1. If a twelve hole starter mounting flange is used, remove the six socket head screws and
six neoprene plugs.
NOTICE:
The solenoid must never be located below the centerline of the
starter. Dust, oil, moisture, and foreign material can collect and
cause solenoid failures.
2. Turn the nose housing to the required position.

3. Install the six socket head screws, with the short screw in the shallow hole nearest the
solenoid and six neoprene plugs if a twelve hole starter mounting flange is used.
4. Tighten the screws to 18-23 N·m (13-17 lb·ft) torque.

8.3 TACHOMETER DRIVE
A tachometer drive shaft may be installed in several locations on the engine.

At the front end of the engine, the tachometer drive shaft is pressed into the end of the right bank
camshaft and extends through an adaptor attached to the balance weight cover. See Figure 8-6.
1. Tachometer Drive Shaft Adaptor 2. Engine Upper Front Cover
Figure 8-6 Front Mounted Tachometer Drive

At the rear of the engine, the tachometer drive shaft may be installed in either the camshaft end,
the blower drive shaft, or the left hand helix blower rotor shaft. See Figure 8-7. A tachometer
drive shaft adaptor is attached to the flywheel housing cover or the blower rear end plate cover.
1. Flywheel Housing 3. Tachometer Drive

2. Tachometer Camshaft Rear End Cover
Figure 8-7 Rear Mounted Tachometer Drive
When required, a tachometer drive cable adaptor changes speed or rotational direction, depending
upon the tachometer drive location. A special key connects the drive shaft to the tachometer
drive cable adaptor.
The cable connection on the current tachometer head is a 5/8 in. threaded connection in place
of the former 7/8 in. connection. To eliminate possible misalignment, the current tachometer
angle drive has a short flexible cable and incorporates an integral oil seal. The output shaft key
size has been increased from 5/32 in. to SAE 3/16 in. Current flexible drive cables are required
with the current tachometers and angle drives.

8.3.1 Repair or Replacement of Tachometer Drive

See Figure 8-8.
Figure 8-8 Flowchart for Repair or Replacement of Tachometer Drive
8.3.2 Removal of Tachometer Drive (Camshaft or Blower Drive Shaft

Driven)
Remove the camshaft or blower drive shaft driven tachometer drive as follows:
1. Disconnect the tachometer drive cable from the tachometer drive cable adaptor.
2. If used, remove the tachometer drive cable adaptor and key. Remove the key and seal
assembly if the tachometer drive shaft is driven by the blower drive shaft.
3. If the tachometer drive is located at the front of the engine, remove the tachometer drive
shaft adaptor and gasket from the balance weight cover. For a rear mounted tachometer
drive, remove the flywheel housing cover and adaptor assembly and gasket.
4. If the tachometer drive shaft is driven by the blower drive shaft, remove the blower drive
shaft.
5. Remove a tachometer drive shaft that is pressed into the camshaft as follows:
[a] If the tachometer drive shaft is pressed into the end of the camshaft, it cannot be
turned since the end is either square or knurled. If threads (5/16 in.-24 or 3/8 in.-24)
are provided on the outer end of the tachometer drive shaft to accommodate a
removing tool, thread remover J 5901-3 from set J 5901-01 on the shaft.

[b] Attach slide hammer J 23907-1 to the remover. A few sharp blows against the slide
hammer rod will remove the tachometer drive shaft.
[c] If threads are not provided on the outer end of the tachometer drive shaft or the end
of the shaft is broken off, drill and tap the shaft.
NOTICE:
To avoid potential engine damage, prevent metal particles from
falling into the gear train and oil pan.
[d] Thread a stud into the shaft, and remove the shaft with the remover and slide hammer.
8.3.3 Removal of Tachometer Drive (Blower Rotor Shaft Driven)
Remove the blower rotor shaft driven tachometer drive shaft as follows:
1. Disconnect the tachometer drive cable from the tachometer drive cable adaptor.
2. Remove the tachometer drive cable adaptor and key.
3. Remove the blower from the engine. Refer to section 6.5.2.
4. Remove the blower rear end plate cover.
5. Remove the tachometer drive shaft, which also functions as the left hand blower rotor
gear retaining bolt, with a 3/4 in. wrench.
8.3.3.1 Inspection of Tachometer Drive
Inspect the oil seals as follows:

1. Visually inspect the oil seal(s) for wear or damage.
[a] If worn or damaged, replace the oil seal (camshaft drive) or oil seal unit (blower
drive shaft drive).
[b] If not worn or damaged, reuse the seal(s).
8.3.4 Installation of Tachometer Drive (Camshaft or Blower Drive Shaft

Driven)
Install the camshaft or blower drive shaft driven tachometer drive as follows:
NOTE:
When installing a tachometer drive cover assembly or a drive adaptor, ensure they
are aligned properly with the tachometer drive shaft. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
1. Start the tachometer drive shaft in the end of the camshaft or blower drive shaft.
2. Using a suitable sleeve, tap or press against the shoulder on the tachometer drive shaft
until the shoulder contacts the camshaft or blower drive shaft.

3. Install the blower drive shaft.

4. Use a new gasket, and install the tachometer drive cover and adaptor on the balance
weight cover or flywheel housing.
5. Check the tachometer drive shaft alignment. Refer to section ADDITIONAL
INFORMATION.
6. Install the oil seal and key assembly (blower drive shaft driven tachometer drive).
7. Install the tachometer drive cable adaptor and key, if used. Lubricate the tachometer drive
cable adaptor with grease through the fitting provided.
8. Attach the tachometer drive cable.
8.3.5 Installation of Tachometer Drive (Driven by Blower Rotor Shaft)
Install the blower rotor shaft driven tachometer drive as follows:

1. Lubricate the threads with engine oil, and install the combination blower rotor retaining
bolt and tachometer drive shaft. Tighten to 75-88 N·m (55-65 lb·ft) torque.
2. Install the blower rear end plate cover.
3. Align the blower rear end plate cover with the tachometer drive shaft. Check the drive
shaft alignment. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
4. Install the blower on the engine. Refer to section 6.5.5.
5. Install the tachometer drive cable adaptor and key.
6. Attach the tachometer drive cable.

8.4 INSTRUMENTS
8.4 INSTRUMENTS
The instruments generally required in diesel engine operation consist of an oil pressure gage, a
water temperature gage, an ammeter, and a mechanical tachometer. An engine starting switch,
engine stop knob, and an emergency stop knob are closely related and are usually installed near
the other instruments. See Figure 8-9.
1. Instrument Panel 5. Cluster Panel

2. Starting Switch 6. Oil Pressure Gage
3. Water Temperature Gage 7. Throttle Knob
4. Ammeter
Figure 8-9 Typical Instrument Panel
All Torqmatic converters are equipped with an oil pressure gage and, in some instances, with an
oil temperature gage. These instruments are mounted on a separate panel.
Instruments, throttle control, and engine starting and stopping controls are mounted in various
locations depending upon the engine use.
Marine propulsion engine instrument panels usually include an engine oil pressure gage, reverse
gear oil pressure gage, water temperature gage, ammeter, and a tachometer. The instrument
panels are mounted some distance from the engine. Illuminated instrument panels are provided
for marine applications which require night operations.

All illuminated instrument panels are wired for a 12 volt lighting circuit. When marine propulsion
units incorporate either a 24 or 32 volt electrical system, a 12 volt tap-off from the battery may be
made, or resistors may be installed in the circuit to protect the instrument panel bulbs. Resistor
specifications are listed in Table 8-1. One resistor is used in the lead for each instrument panel
bulb. See Figure 8-10.
Volts Ohms Watts

24 50 10
32 100 10
Table 8-1 Resistor Specifications
NOTE:
X=Panel Lights Y=Resistors. See Figure 8-10.
1. Instrument Panel 4. Oil Pressure Gage

2. Amps 5. Reverse Gear Pressure
3. Water Temperature Gage 5. Tachometer
Figure 8-10 Installation of Resistors in Illuminated Instrument Panel
8.4.1 Anti-Vibration Instrument Mountings
Anti-vibration mountings are used in many places to absorb engine vibration in the mounting of
instruments, drop relays, tachometers, etc. When servicing a rubber mount secured part, exercise
care during removal and installation to avoid twist imposed into the rubber mount diaphragm.
The mounts should be inspected for damage and replaced, if necessary.

8.4 INSTRUMENTS
The attaching screw, through the center of the mount, must be held from turning during final nut
tightening. Support the screw, and tighten the nut only. If this screw turns, it will preload the
rubber diaphragm in torsion and considerably shorten the life of the mount.
8.4.2 Oil Pressure Gage
The oil pressure gage registers the lubricating oil pressure in the engine. As soon as the engine is
started, the oil pressure gage should start to register. If the oil pressure gage does not register
at least the minimum pressure, stop the engine. Determine the cause, and correct it before the
engine is started again. Refer to section 11.5.
Current oil pressure gages have male threads and require female fittings. When replacing a former
gage with female threads, use a new mounting clamp and connector.
8.4.3 Water Temperature Gage
The engine coolant temperature is registered on the water temperature gage.

Incorrect coolant temperature readings will be registered if the gage assembly is incorrectly
installed or the capillary tube is damaged.
To prevent vibration damage to the gage assembly, the full length of the capillary tube must be
securely fastened to the engine with suitable clips at intervals of ten inches or less. Avoid sharp
bends in the tube, particularly at the gage or bulb connection areas. The bend must not be less
than one inch radius where the tube must be bent around any object.
Coil any extra length with a diameter no less than two inches. The coils must be located so that
they may be securely fastened to prevent vibration.
8.4.4 Ammeter
The ammeter is wired into the electrical circuit to show the current flow to and from the battery.
After starting the engine, the ammeter should register a high charge rate at rated engine speed.
This is the rate of charge received by the battery to replenish the current used to start the engine.
As the engine continues to operate, the ammeter should show a decline in the charge rate to the
battery. The ammeter will not show zero charge rate since the regulator voltage is set higher than
the battery voltage. The small current registered prevents rapid brush wear in the battery-charging
alternator. If lights or other electrical equipment are connected into the circuit, the ammeter will
show discharge when these items are operating and the engine speed is reduced.
8.4.5 Throttle Control
The engine throttle is connected to the governor speed control shaft through linkage. Speed
control shaft movement changes the governor speed setting and the engine speed.

8.4.6 Engine Starting Switch
A switch energizes the starting motor to start the engine. Starting switches may vary in design,
and their contacts must be rated sufficiently to carry the starter solenoid current. Tighten the
starting switch mounting nut to 4-5.5 N·m (36-48 lb·in.) torque.
8.4.7 Engine Stop Knob (MUI Engine)
Use the stop knob to shut the engine down. When stopping an engine, reduce the engine speed
to idle, and operate the engine at idle for a few minutes to permit the coolant to reduce the
temperature of moving engine parts. Pull the stop knob, and hold it until the engine stops. Pulling
on the stop knob manually places the injector racks in the no-fuel position. Return the stop knob
to its original position after the engine stops.
NOTICE:
When an emergency shut down is necessary on a MUI engine
with the spring loaded fuel injector control tubes, the stop knob
should be pulled immediately, and held until the engine stops.
8.4.8 Air Shutdown-Valve
Solenoid-activated air shutdown valves are used on many Detroit Diesel engines. To ensure
positive valve closure, the latch bracket on the solenoid plunger must be adjusted to permit the
cam to rotate downward without interference from the latch.
NOTICE:
If not adjusted properly, the valve may not close completely when
activated. It will not cut off air flow to the engine and shut it down
during abnormal operating conditions. This can cause engine
damage.
Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION for adjusting procedures.
8.4.9 Emergency Stop Knob (Engine Equipped with Air Shutoff-Valve)
In an emergency, or if the engine continues to operate after pulling the stop knob, the emergency
stop knob may be used to stop the engine. When the emergency stop knob is pulled, the air shutoff
valve, located between the air intake and the blower, will trip and shut off the air supply to the
engine. Lack of air to the engine will prevent further fuel combustion, stopping the engine.
The emergency stop knob must be pushed back in and the air shutoff valve must be reset manually
after the engine is stopped. Determine the cause for malfunction before starting the engine again.

8.5 ENGINE PROTECTIVE SYSTEMS
A manually-operated emergency engine shutdown device, mounted in the air shutdown housing,
enables the engine operator to stop the engine if an abnormal condition should arise. If the engine
continues to run after the engine throttle is placed in the no-fuel position, or if combustible liquids
or gases are accidentally introduced into the combustion chamber causing engine overspeed, the
shutdown device will cut off the air supply to stop the engine and prevent damage. The device
consists of a shutdown valve mounted in the air shutdown housing and a suitable operating
mechanism. See Figure 8-11.
1. Shutdown Latch Assembly 3. Blower Screen

2. Air Shutdown Valve
Figure 8-11 Manually Operated Emergency Engine Shutdown Valve Mounting

A latch retains the air shutdown valve in the open position. A bowden wire or cable assembly is
used to trip the latch. Pulling the emergency shutdown knob all the way out will stop the engine.
After the engine stops, push the emergency shutdown knob all the way in, and manually reset the
air shutdown valve before the engine is restarted.
For manual shutdown device removal and installation or disassembly and assembly,
refer to section 6.4.

8.5.1 Automatic Mechanical Shutdown System
The automatic mechanical shutdown system stops the engine if oil pressure loss, engine coolant
loss, engine coolant overheating, or engine overspeeding occurs. However, this will not guarantee
protection in all circumstances. See Figure 8-12. Engine oil pressure is utilized to activate the
system components.
1. Overspeed Governor 6. Temperature Sensing Valve

2. Oil Pressure Bellows 7. Oil Supply
3. Oil Line 8. Water Tube-to-Oil Cooler
4. Tube-to-Water Pump 9. Oil Return
5. Plug and Adaptor
Figure 8-12 Typical Automatic Mechanical Shutdown System Mounting

A coolant temperature-sensing valve, an adaptor, and copper plug assembly are mounted on the
exhaust manifold outlet. The temperature-sensing valve power element is placed against one end
of the copper plug, and the other end of the plug extends into the exhaust manifold. Engine
coolant is directed through the adaptor and passes over the valve power element. Engine oil,
under pressure, is directed through a restricted fitting, to the temperature-sensing valve, and to an
oil pressure actuated bellow located on the air inlet housing.
The pressure of the oil entering the bellows overcomes the bellows spring tension and permits
the latch to retain the air shutdown valve in the open position. If the oil pressure drops below
a predetermined value, the bellows spring will release the latch and permit the air shutdown
valve to close, stopping the engine.

A set of spring-loaded weights actuates the overspeed governor valve. See Figure 8-13. Engine
oil is supplied to the valve through a connection in the oil line between the bellows and the
temperature-sensing valve. An outlet in the governor valve is connected to the engine oil sump.
Whenever the engine speed exceeds the overspeed governor setting, the valve moves from its
seat and permits the oil to flow to the engine sump. This decreases the oil pressure to the bellows
which actuates the shutdown mechanism and stops the engine.
1. Adjusting Screw 7. Overspeed Governor

2. Exhaust Manifold 8. Copper Plug and Adaptor
3. Restricted Fitting 9. Temperature Sensing Valve
4. Emergency Shutdown Cable 10. Oil Bellows
5. Air Shutdown Valve 11. Low Oil Pressure Adjusting Screw
6. Cam and Latch Mechanism
Figure 8-13 Schematic Drawing of Automatic Mechanical Shutdown System

with Overspeed Governor

8.5.1.1 Operation of Automatic Mechanical Shutdown System
To start an engine equipped with a mechanical shutdown system, manually open the air shutdown
valve, and press the engine starting switch. As soon as the engine starts, the starting switch may
be released, but the air shutdown valve must be held in the open position until the engine oil
pressure increases sufficiently for the bellows to retain the latch in the open position.
During operation, if the engine oil pressure drops below the setting of the pressure sensitive
bellows, the spring within the bellows will release the latch and permit the air shutdown valve to
close, stopping the engine.
If the engine coolant overheats, the temperature-sensing valve will open and permit the oil in
the protective system to flow to the engine crankcase. The resulting decrease in oil pressure will
actuate the shutdown mechanism and stop the engine. If the engine loses its coolant, passing hot
exhaust gases will overheat the plug and cause the temperature-sensing valve to open, actuating
the shutdown mechanism.
Whenever the engine speed exceeds the overspeed governor setting, the oil in the line flows to
the sump, resulting in an oil pressure decrease. The oil pressure bellows release the latch and
permit the air shutdown valve to close.
When an engine is stopped by the action of the shutdown system, the engine cannot be started
again until the particular device which actuated the shutdown mechanism has returned to its
normal position. The abnormal condition which caused the engine to stop must be corrected
before attempting to start it again.
8.5.1.2 Adjustment of Automatic Mechanical Shutdown System
The only adjustments necessary in the mechanical shutdown system are the bellows low oil
pressure setting and the overspeed governor overspeed setting. Replace the temperature-sensing
valve when operation is unsatisfactory.
To adjust the low oil pressure setting of the bellows, run the engine until normal operating
temperature (71-85°C or 160-185°F) has been reached and the oil pressure has stabilized. Reduce
the engine speed slowly until the bellows disengage the latch on the air shutdown valve and
stop the engine. Note the oil pressure at which the shutdown occurred. The oil pressure at
disengagement should be 34-69 kPa (5-10 lb/in.2) at 45-600 RPM; 69-103 kPa (10-15 lb/in.2) at
601-140 RPM; or 103-138 kPa (15-20 lb/in.2) at 1401 and above RPM. If adjustment is necessary,
loosen the locknut on the bellows, and turn the adjusting screw, and tighten the locknut when
the proper setting has been obtained.
NOTE:
Set the bellows disengagement pressure as near as possible to the high end of the
pressure range for the low engine speed specified for the engine.

8.5.2 Automatic Electrical Shutdown System
The automatic electrical shutdown system protects the engine against coolant loss, coolant
overheating, oil pressure loss, or overspeeding. See Figure 8-14. If one of these conditions arises,
a switch will close the electrical circuit and energize the solenoid switch, causing the shutdown
solenoid to release the air shutdown latch and stop the engine.

1. Fuel Oil Pressure Switch 5. Shorting Jumpers

2. Optional Overspeed Governor 6. Lube Oil Pressure Switch
3. Shutdown Solenoid 7. Water Temperature Switch
4. Time Relay Switch 8. Optional Connection
Figure 8-14 Automatic Electrical Shutdown System Diagram

8.5.2.1 Operation of Automatic Electrical Shutdown System
The electrical circuit is de-energized under normal operating conditions. When the engine is
started, one oil pressure switch opens when the oil pressure reaches approximately 69 kPa (10
lb/in.2) and the fuel oil pressure switch closes at approximately 138 kPa (20 lb/in.2) fuel pressure.
If the oil pressure drops below 69 kPa (10 lb/in.2), the oil pressure switch will close the circuit and
energize the shutdown solenoid. This will activate the shutdown mechanism and stop the engine.
A coolant loss or a coolant temperature increase in the cylinder block to approximately 95°C
(203°F) will close the contacts in the water temperature switch, closing the electrical circuit and
activating the shutdown mechanism.
The water temperature switch consists of a temperature-sensing element and a micro-switch. The
element contacts a copper plug (heat probe), which extends into the exhaust manifold outlet.
Engine coolant is directed over the temperature-sensing element in the switch. Should the coolant
temperature in the cylinder block exceed approximately 95°C (203°F), the element will close
the contacts in the micro-switch and energize the shutdown circuit. If coolant loss occurs, the
exhaust gas heat will transmit through the copper plug to the temperature-sensing element. The
shutdown circuit will stop the engine.
In the event of an automatic shutdown, determine the problem, and correct it before starting the
engine. Manually reset the air shutdown valve in the open position before restarting the engine.
When the engine is shutdown, the decrease in oil and fuel pressure will close the oil pressure
switches and open the fuel pressure switch, de-energizing the circuit.
Some engines are equipped with an electrically operated automatic shutdown system which
incorporates a time delay switch.
Since the fuel pressure builds up rapidly, the fuel oil pressure switch could close before the
lubricating oil pressure switch opens, causing an engine shutdown. The time delay switch delays
solenoid operation for 3 to 10 seconds, enabling the lubricating oil pressure to build up and
open the oil pressure switch contacts.
When the lubricating oil pressure falls below 69 ± 7 kPa (10 ± 2 lb/in.2), the contacts in the oil
pressure switch will close, and current will flow to the time delay switch.
The few seconds required to heat the time delay switch provides sufficient delay to avoid an
engine shutdown when low oil pressure is caused by a temporary condition such as an air bubble
or a temporary overlap in the operation of the oil pressure switch and the fuel oil pressure switch
when starting or stopping the engine.
8.5.3 Shutdown System for Direct Mounted Turbocharged Engines
With a direct mounted turbocharger and spring loaded MUI fuel injector control racks, the air
shutoff valve was eliminated from the air inlet housing. The spring loaded injector control racks
enable the engine to come out of any advanced fuel position when an emergency situation arises.
When an engine is operating in an atmosphere subject to volatile fuel and is equipped with an
air inlet housing without the air shutdown valve, an external or remote mounted emergency air
shutdown assembly can be added.

The remote mounted emergency air shutdown assembly that is equipped with the air shutdown
valve can be installed upstream of the turbocharger air inlet side.
Care should be taken when installing the emergency air shutdown assembly between the
turbocharger and the air cleaner. See Figure 8-15.
1. Rubber Elbow 3. Shutdown Assembly

2. Turbocharger 4. Solenoid
Figure 8-15 Emergency Shutdown Assembly (Direct Mounted Turbocharger)
A 7 to 5 inch diameter reducing 90 degree rubber hose or a 7 to 5 inch diameter hump hose
reducer can be used to adapt the shutdown to the turbocharger.
The emergency air shutdown assembly is typically manually operated. Install a solenoid to
make it automatic.

To ensure positive emergency engine shutdown, a dual-solenoid shutdown system has replaced
the former single-solenoid/latch lever connecting rod shutdown system on all 16V-TA marine
engines, effective February 1, 1996. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
An automatic electric shutdown system with solid state low coolant protection is used on some
industrial and off-highway engine applications. This system incorporates many of the same
components as the automatic electrical shutdown systems. This system protects the engine against
low coolant level, coolant overheating, and oil pressure loss. See Figure 8-16 and see Figure 8-17.
NOTE:
Diagram represents the switch positions during normal engine operation.

1. Coolant Level Module 8. Jumpers

2. Battery 12VDG 9. Time Delay Switch
3. Fuel Pressure Switch 10. Shutdown Solenoid
4. SPST Switch Installed 11. Optional Warning Buzzer/Light 24 Max
5. SPST Switch Installed 12. Coolant Level Probe
6. Oil Pressure Switch 13. SPST Switch Installed
7. Coolant Temperature Switch
Figure 8-16 Electrical Diagram (1 of 2)
NOTE:

1. Coolant Level Module 7. Time Delay Switch

2. Battery 12VDG 8. Jumpers
4. Oil Pressure Switch 10. Optional Warning Buzzer/Light 24 Max
5. Coolant Temperature Switch 11. Coolant Level Probe
6. Coolant Level Relay
Figure 8-17 Electrical Diagram (2 of 2)
If one of the preceding conditions occur, a switch will close the electrical circuit and energize the
time delay switch, shutting the solenoid down to release the air shutdown latch and stop the engine.
There are no failure mode diagnostics associated with the shutdown systems used on mechanically
governed engines. Systems must be periodically tested to ensure proper operation. Perform
preventive maintenance every 20,000 miles or 700 hours, whichever occurs first. Refer to section
13.50.

The automatic electrical shutdown system with solid state low coolant protection is comprised
of three shutdown switches wired in parallel to a solid state time delay switch (TDS). If one or
more of the switches closes, the TDS starts an 8-10 second clock before energizing the shutdown
solenoid. A fuel pressure switch, wired in series with battery voltage and the shutdown circuit,
enables the system.
8.5.3.1 Check Engine Coolant Temperature Sensing Valve Operation on

Mechanical Shutdown Systems
Perform the following to check the operating of the engine coolant temperature sensing valve
on mechanical shutdown systems as follows:
NOTICE:
If the temperature-sensing valve is removed, examine the
temperature shutdown valve plunger in the copper probe. If
it is not free in the probe and adaptor, install a new plunger,
spring, and adaptor. Deposits from the engine coolant building
up between the plunger spring and plug can cause the plunger
to stick in the probe.
1. Place a cover over the radiator while the engine is operating at part load.
2. Observe the coolant outlet temperature at which the bellows disengage the air shutdown
latch.
NOTE:
The air shutdown valve should close and stop the engine within 92-99°C (200 -210°F).
[a] If the engine does not shut down in this range, replace the temperature-sensing valve.
[b] If the engine shuts down below 93°C (200°F), check the coolant flow through the
plug and adaptor assembly.
[c] If circulation is satisfactory, replace the temperature-sensing valve.
[d] If the engine shuts down in the specified range, continue inspection.
8.5.3.2 Bench Test the Temperature-Sensing Valve on Mechanical

Shutdown Systems
Bench test the temperature-sensing valve as follows:

1. Attach an air hose to the oil inlet side, and install a tube from the outlet side to a can
of water.
2. Immerse the valve power element in a container of water that is heated, and agitate the
container.
3. Check the water temperature with a thermometer.

EYE INJURY
4. Apply air to the valve.
NOTE:
Air flow at a 91-96°C (195-206°F) water temperature indicates that the valve is open.
[a] If air does not flow at the specified temperature, replace the valve.
[b] If air flows at the specified temperature, continue inspection.
To adjust the overspeed governor, run the engine until normal operating temperature
is reached. Increase the engine speed to the desired overspeed shutdown speed. At
this speed, the bellows should disengage the air shutdown latch and stop the engine. If
necessary, adjust the overspeed governor setting by loosening the locknut on the adjusting
screw at the rear of the governor, and turn the screw clockwise to increase the shutdown
speed or counterclockwise to decrease the shutdown speed. After the proper setting is
obtained, tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting screw.
8.5.3.3 Inspection of Engine Protective System
Inspect the engine protective system as follows:

1. If the temperature-sensing valve is removed, examine the temperature shutdown valve
plunger in the copper probe.
[a] If it is not free in the probe and adaptor, install a new plunger, spring and adaptor.
[b] If it is free in the probe and adaptor, continue inspection.
NOTE:
Deposits from the engine coolant building up between the plunger, spring, and plug can
cause the plunger to stick in the probe.
2. Visually inspect all electrical components and wiring for any deterioration.
[a] If deteriorated, replace.
[b] If not deteriorated, proceed with inspection.
8.5.3.4 Inspection of Engine Coolant Temperature Sensing Valve
Inspect the engine coolant temperature sensing valve as follows:

1. Place a cover over the radiator while the engine is operating at part load.

2. Observe the coolant outlet temperature at which the bellows disengages the air shutdown
latch.
NOTE:
The air shutdown valve should close and stop the engine within 92-99°C (200-210°F).
[a] If the engine does not shut down in this range, replace the temperature-sensing valve.
[b] If the engine shuts down below 93°C (200°F), check the coolant flow through the
plug and adaptor assembly.
[c] If circulation is satisfactory, replace the temperature-sensing valve.
[d] If the engine shuts down in the specified range, continue inspection.
8.5.3.5 Temperature Sensing Valve Bench Test
Bench test the temperature-sensing valve as follows:

1. Attach an air hose to the oil inlet side, and install a tube from the outlet side to a can
of water.
2. Immerse the valve power element in a container of water that is heated, and agitate the
container.
3. Check the water temperature with a thermometer.
EYE INJURY
4. Apply air to the valve.
NOTE:
Air flow at a 91-96°C (195-206°F) water temperature indicates that the valve is open.
[a] If air does not flow at the specified temperature, replace the valve.
[b] If air flows at the specified temperature, continue inspection.
8.5.3.6 Solid State Time Delay Switch Bench Test
Bench test the solid state time delay switch as follows:

1. Remove the time delay switch from the engine. See Figure 8-18.

1. Fuel Oil Pressure Switch 5. Shorting Jumpers

2. Optional Overspeed Governor 6. Lube Oil Pressure Switch
3. Shutdown Solenoid 7. Water Temperature Switch
4. Time Delay Switch 8. Optional Connection
Figure 8-18 Automatic Electrical Shutdown System Diagram

2. Install the jumper straps on terminals A to B and E to F. See Figure 8-19.
1. Time Delay Switch 4. 12 Volt Light

2. Jumper Straps 5. Switch
3. 12 Volt Battery
Figure 8-19 Solid State Time Delay Switch Testing Diagram
3. Install a positive battery lead to terminal A.

4. Install a negative battery lead to one side of a 12 volt light.
5. Install a lead from the opposite side of the light to terminal D. A switch may be used in
this lead, if desired.
6. After the negative lead is connected to terminal D or the switch is closed, the lamp should
light in 8 to 10 seconds.
[a] If the lamp does not light up, replace the time delay switch.
[b] If the lamp lights, continue inspection.
8.5.3.7 Automatic Electrical Shutdown System with Solid State Low

Coolant Protection Test
To test the shutdown system, simulate abnormal engine operating conditions as follows:
1. Connect a 10 amp single pole single throw (SPST) switch and two jumper leads (No. 14
gage wire minimum) with clips across each engine shutdown switch.

2. Toggle the switch with the engine running, simulating an abnormal engine operating
condition.
[a] If the shutdown solenoid does not energize between 8-10 seconds and the engine does
not stop after a few seconds, reset the air shutdown latch and proceed to the next test.
[b] If the engine does not stop within a few additional seconds, stop the engine with the
mechanical shutdown.
[c] If the solenoid energizes between 8-10 seconds and the engine stops after a few
seconds, reuse the parts.
Perform the second test as follows:

1. With the engine not running, install the SPST switch and jumper leads across the oil
pressure switch. See Figure 8-20.
NOTE:
Ensure the SPST switch is in the "OFF" position before conducting the test.
NOTE:
1. Coolant Level Module 7. Time Delay Switch

2. Battery 12VDG 8. Jumpers
4. Oil Pressure Switch 10. Optional Warning Buzzer/Light 24 Max
5. Coolant Temperature Switch 11. Coolant Level Probe
6. Coolant Level Relay
Figure 8-20 Electrical Diagram

2. Start the engine and allow it to run at idle speed. Let the engine run for a few moments.
3. Toggle the SPST switch to the "ON" position.
[a] If the engine stops, proceed to step 3[b].
[b] If the engine does not stop, shut down the engine, determine and correct the cause.
4. Remove the SPST switch assembly from the oil pressure switch, and install it across
the coolant temperature switch terminals.
NOTE:
Ensure SPST switch is in the "OFF" position.
5. Start the engine, and allow it to run at idle speed.

6. After the engine has been running for a few minutes, toggle the SPST switch to the "ON"
position.
[a] If the engine stops, continue to step 6[b].
[b] If the engine does not stop, shut down the engine, determine and correct the cause.
7. Remove the SPST switch assembly from the coolant temperature switch.
8. Disconnect the wire which terminates at the No. 2 terminal of the coolant level module.
9. Install the SPST switch between this wire and the No. 2 terminal of the coolant level
module.
NOTE:
Ensure SPST switch in the "ON" position.
10. Start the engine, and allow it to run at idle speed.

11. After the engine has run for a few moments, toggle the SPST switch to the "OFF" position.
[a] If the engine stops, proceed to step 11[b].
[b] If the engine does not stop, shutdown the engine, determine and correct the cause.
12. Remove the SPST switch assembly from the circuit, and connect the wire removed from
the number 2 terminal of the coolant level module.
8.5.3.8 Inspection of Automatic Electrical Shutdown System with Solid

State Low Coolant Protection
Inspect the automatic electrical shutdown system with solid state low coolant protection as
follows:
NOTE:
Clean and inspect the coolant level probe at service intervals.
1. Clean contaminants from the probe center.

2. Inspect the nylon bushing between the probe center and probe base for cracks.

[a] If cracked, replace the probe.

[b] If not cracked, continue inspection.
3. Using a volt-ohm meter, check for continuity between the probe center and probe base.
[a] If there is incontinuity, replace the probe.
[b] If there is continuity, continue inspection.
4. Inspect nylon bushing for cracks.
[a] If cracked, replace the probe.
[b] If not cracked, reuse the probe.

8.6 ALARM SYSTEM
8.6 ALARM SYSTEM
The alarm system is similar to the automatic electrical shutdown system, but uses a warning bell
in place of the air shutdown valve solenoid. The bell warns the engine operator if the engine
coolant overheats or the oil pressure drops below the oil pressure switch setting.
When the engine is started and the oil pressure is sufficient to open the oil pressure switch
contacts (opening pressure is stamped on the switch cover), the alarm switch must be turned on
manually to put the system in operation. The water temperature switch is normally open. Should
the engine coolant exceed 102 ± 3°C (215 ± 5°F), the water temperature switch will close the
electrical circuit and sound the alarm bell. If the oil pressure drops below the oil pressure switch
setting, the switch will close and cause the bell to ring. The bell will continue to ring until the
engine operator turns the alarm switch off. The alarm switch must be turned off before a routine
stop, since the decreasing oil pressure will close the oil pressure switch and cause the bell to ring.

The current Bell System requires less than 5 amperes to ring the bell. See Figure 8-21.
1. Alarm Bell 4. Water Temperature Switch

2. Starting Motor 5. Battery (12-16 Volt Only)
3. Lube Oil Pressure Switch
Figure 8-21 Current Alarm System Wiring Diagram

8.6 ALARM SYSTEM
The former Bell System requires more than 5 amperes to ring the bell. See Figure 8-22.
1. Alarm 6. Oil Pressure

2. Starting Motor 7. Water Temperature Switch
3. External Jumper 8. Coil
4. Relay 9. Contacts
5. Alarm Switch 10. Battery
Figure 8-22 Former Alarm System Wiring Diagram
If the alarm bell rings during engine operation, stop the engine immediately and determine the
cause. Make the necessary corrections before restarting the engine.

An alarm bell may be connected to the electrical shutdown system. See Figure 8-23. If an
abnormal condition occurs, the engine will stop and the alarm bell will ring. The bell will
continue to ring until the operator pushes the reset button on the drop relay.
1. Bell 6. Low Oil Pressure Switch

2. Battery 7. Hot Wire Relay
3. Shutdown Solenoid 8. Solenoid Switch
4. Fuel Oil Pressure Switch 9. Drop Relay
5. Water Temperature Switch 10. Manual Reset Button
Figure 8-23 Alarm Bell Connected to Electrical Shutdown

8.6 ALARM SYSTEM
The alarm system utilizes the temperature-sensing switch and the low oil pressure valve.
See Figure 8-24.
1. Oil Line Gallery 8. Relay

2. Oil Pressure Valve 9. Starter
3. Oil Pressure Switch 10. Battery
4. Water From Cylinder Block 11. Fuel Oil Pressure Switch
5. Water Return to Suction Side of Pump 12. Contacts
6. Exhaust Manifold Flange 13. Coil
7. Water Temperature Switch
Figure 8-24 Alarm System with Mechanical Sensing Units

When the engine is started, the oil pressure switch will open when the oil pressure reaches 34.5
kPa (5 lb/in.2), and the fuel oil pressure switch will close when the fuel pressure reaches 138 kPa
(20 lb/in.2). If overheating or engine coolant loss occurs, the temperature-sensing switch will
close and complete the electrical circuit to the alarm bell. Engine oil pressure loss will cause the
oil pressure valve to open, activating the alarm system. Once the alarm system is activated, the
bell will continue to ring until the engine operator stops the engine.
During a routine engine shut down, the decreasing fuel pressure causes the fuel pressure switch to
open the electrical circuit before the decreasing oil pressure can activate the alarm system.
Coolant protection is obtained through an exhaust probe and adaptor assembly and a temperature
switch. The engine coolant circulates around the switch power element to prevent the heat
transfer to the exhaust probe which will activate the switch. An alarm will sound if coolant
flow through the adaptor is interrupted for any reason. The switch will operate when the engine
coolant discharge temperature exceeds 96-102°C (205-215°F).
The oil pressure switch, mounted in the low oil pressure valve, will sound the alarm when the
engine oil pressure drops below the safe operating pressure. See Figure 8-25. The switch will
detect an engine overspeed. Engine oil is supplied to the valve. Should the engine oil pressure
drop below a safe operating value, above 1200 RPM, the valve will operate, dropping the oil
pressure at the switch which completes the circuit and sounds the alarm. Below 1200 RPM, the
oil pressure switch will close whenever the oil pressure is less than the oil pressure switch setting.

8.6 ALARM SYSTEM
1. Adjusting Screw 9. Housing

2. Nut 10. Drive Shaft
3. Cover 11. Shims
4. Seal 12. Retainer
5. Inner Spring 13. Outer Spring
6. Valve 14. Piston
7. Bearing 15. Guide Assembly
8. Weight
Figure 8-25 Typical Low Oil Pressure Valve
A relay prevents damage to the pressure and temperature switches should the current to operate
the alarm device be too high.
Should the alarm be activated for any reason, the engine should be stopped immediately. The
cause must be corrected before the engine is restarted.

8.7 OVERSPEED GOVERNOR
The series GW-2 Synchro-Start overspeed governor contains two separate snap action switches
with single-pole double-throw contacts which operate at two different speeds. See Figure 8-26.
The governor trips at the speeds indicated on the name plate. Unless otherwise specified, the
name plate indicates trip points on increasing speed. The contacts will return to normal when the
speed is decreased approximately 100 RPM below the trip speed, except on the high speed switch
of those models having a manual reset button. The letter "M" after any model number indicates
the high speed switch must be reset manually.
1. Low Speed Switch 15. High Speed Switch

2. High Speed Switch 16. Switch Bracket
3. Bearing Spacer 17. High Speed Switch Lifter
4. Plunger 18. Bearing
5. Cap Holding Screw 19. Seal Ring
6. Plunger Cap 20. Flyweight

7. Snap Ring 21. Flyweight Spring

8. Spring 22. Governor Cap
9. Low Speed Switch Lifter 23. Retaining Ring
10. Channel Lever 24. Bearing
11. Low Speed Switch 25. Snap Ring
12. Low Speed Adjusting Screw 26. Oil Seal
13. Governor Cover 27. Shaft
14. High Speed Adjusting Screw 28. Governor Body
Figure 8-26 Cross-Section of Overspeed Governor
The hydraulic governor, which contains a set of spring loaded weights, prevents excessive
engine speeds.
The overspeed governor is mounted in an adaptor on the rear of the flywheel housing. A seal
ring in the adaptor end of the governor housing prevents oil seeping from the flywheel housing.
A flexible drive assembly from the blower drive shaft drives the governor. A tube, which is
connected to the oil gallery in the cylinder block, supplies the governor with pressurized oil.
When the engine speed reaches the value for which the overspeed governor is set, the centrifugal
force of the weights in the overspeed governor overcomes the spring tension and opens a pilot
valve in the governor. The pilot valve dumps oil from the oil tube, lowering the pressure at the
engine oil pressure switch. This closes the switch, energizes the shutdown solenoid, and closes
the shutdown valve.
The overspeed governor is lubricated by oil from the engine crankcase.
The position of the adjusting screw in the overspeed governor cover determines the engine
shutdown speed. To change the setting, loosen the locknut, and turn the adjusting screw in to
increase the speed and out to decrease the speed. When the proper setting is obtained, tighten
the adjusting screw locknut.
8.7.1 Service of Overspeed Governor
Perform the following procedures to service the overspeed governor.
8.7.2 Removal of Snap Action Switches
Remove the snap action switches as follows:

1. Mark the position of the dust cover, and remove both hold-down screws.
2. Observe the position of the switches. Usually they are positioned with 1/64 in. clearance
between the switch button and the lifters. If the lifters are replaced, ensure that the long
lifter is placed beneath the low speed switch, and the short lifter is placed beneath the
high speed switch.

8.7.3 Removal of Governor Cap
Remove the governor cap as follows:

1. Observe the marking on the cap and the body then remove the three holding screws.
2. Remove the cap assembly, ensuring not to damage the seal ring.
8.7.4 Removal of Adjusting Springs
Remove the adjusting springs as follows:

1. Hold the speed adjusting stud with a 5/16 in. open end wrench, and loosen the adjusting
stud nut with a 3/8 in. open end wrench.
2. Remove the adjusting spring and related parts.
8.7.5 Removal of Flexible Drive Shaft
Remove the flexible drive shaft as follows:

1. Insert a sharp pointed instrument in the loop of the spring clip and pull it from the shaft as
far as possible and remove the shaft assembly.
8.7.6 Installation of Snap Action Switches
Install the snap action switches as follows:

1. Install the switches.
2. Tighten the hold-down screws.
NOTICE:
When replacing the dust cover on a governor with a manual
reset, ensure that the switch wiring does not interfere with the
reset mechanism.
3. Replace the dust cover.
8.7.7 Installation of Governor Cap
Install the governor cap as follows:

1. Lightly coat the seal ring and body with grease.

NOTICE:
The position of the cap is very critical on governors in which
the difference in trip points between the two switches is more
than 1000 RPM and the trip point of the high speed switch is
above 2100 RPM. These governors use elongated loop flyweight
springs. If, after assembly, the No. 1 switch trips at a far higher
point than normal, lower the cap position slightly. If the No. 2
switch trips at a very low speed, raise the cap position slightly. If
difficulty arises, refer to section 8.7.10.
2. Install the cap. Do not damage the seal ring.

3. Install and tighten the holding screws.
8.7.8 Installation of Speed Adjusting Springs
Install the speed adjusting springs as follows:
NOTE:
Prevent dirt from accumulating on the parts.
1. Hold the speed adjusting stud with a 5/16 in. open end wrench, and tighten the adjusting
stud nut with a 3/8 in. open end wrench.
8.7.9 Installation of Flexible Drive Shaft
Install the flexible drive shaft as follows:

1. Install the spring clip in the fitting groove on the end of the governor shaft.
2. Push the shaft assembly into the square end of the governor shaft. The spring clip will
snap in place.
NOTE:
Check the position of the spring clip. If the clip has sprung out of position, use a small
screwdriver and push it into place.
8.7.10 Adjustment of Governor Cap
Adjust the governor cap (with the dust cover in place) as follows:

NOTICE:
The position of the cap is very critical on governors in which
the difference in trip points between the two switches is more
than 1000 RPM and the trip point of the high speed switch is
above 2100 RPM. These governors use elongated loop flyweight
springs. If after assembly, the No. 1 switch trips at a far higher
point than normal, lower the cap position slightly. If the No. 2
switch trips at a very low speed, raise the cap position slightly.
1. Turn the low speed adjusting screw out for minimum speed adjustment. The top of the
adjusting screw should be approximately 1/8 in. from the top of the dust cover.
2. Turn the high speed adjusting screw in for almost maximum speed adjustment. The top of
the adjusting screw should be approximately 5/16 in. from the top of the dust cover.
3. With partial tension on the cap holding screws, turn the governor cap to the maximum
extended position.
4. Operate the governor at 200 RPM above the low speed switch trip point.
5. Slowly rotate the cap clockwise until the low speed switch trips.
6. Mark the cap position and stop the governor.
7. Turn the cap another 1/16 in. and lock the holding screws securely.
8.7.11 Adjustment of Speed
Adjust the speed as follows:

1. Remove the appropriate dust cover screw.

2. Insert a 1/16 in. allen wrench into the adjusting screw. See Figure 8-27.
NOTE:
Both switches may be individually adjusted. Dust cover screw marked "I" covers the low
speed adjuster and screw marked "2" covers the high speed adjuster.
1. High Speed Adjustment 2. Low Speed Adjustment
Figure 8-27 Adjusting Trip Speed of Overspeed Governor
NOTICE:
If the adjusting screws are turned in too far, the switch will no
longer operate. Do not attempt to use the slots in the cap for
normal speed adjustments. This position is set and marked by
the manufacturer for operation in the speed range required.
3. Turn the screw clockwise to increase the trip speed, or counterclockwise to decrease
the trip speed.

Description Page
SHOP NOTES ................................................................................................... 8-60

CAMSHAFT GEAR RETAINING BOLT LOCKING PLATE (COACH ENGINES
WITH 50DN ALTERNATORS) ................................................................. 8-61
Removal of Camshaft Gear Bolt Locking Plate .......................................... 8-61
Installation of Camshaft Gear Bolt Locking Plate ....................................... 8-62
Alignment of Camshaft Gear Mounting Bolts .............................................. 8-62
DUAL-SOLENOID EMERGENCY SHUTDOWN SYSTEM ON 16V-92TA
MARINE ENGINES ................................................................................. 8-63
Replacement of Former Shutdown System with the Dual-Solenoid System
on 16V-92TA Marine Engines .............................................................. 8-65
PROPER OPERATION OF THE SWITCHES OR ALARM SYSTEM FOR
TESTING THE ELECTRICAL SHUTDOWN .......................................... 8-67
Overspeed Governor .................................................................................. 8-68
Water Temperature Switch .......................................................................... 8-68
Fuel Oil Pressure Switch ............................................................................ 8-69
Lubricating Oil Pressure Switch .................................................................. 8-71
Adjust Bellows ............................................................................................ 8-72
Adjust the Latch Bracket on the Air Shutdown Valve .................................. 8-72
Test Air Shutdown Operation ...................................................................... 8-73
Hot Wire Relay ............................................................................................ 8-73
Solid State Time Delay Switch 12, 24, or 32 Volts-Direct Current .............. 8-74
CHECK ENGINE STARTING SWITCH .......................................................... 8-75
ALIGNMENT TOOLS FOR TACHOMETER DRIVE COVERS AND
ADAPTORS ............................................................................................ 8-75
MOUNTING THE STARTER AUXILIARY MAGNETIC SWITCH ................... 8-76
NEW SEALING COMPONENTS IN FLANGE-MOUNTED LEECE-NEVILLE
ALTERNATORS USED IN MARINE APPLICATIONS ............................. 8-77
New Components For Flange-Mounted Leece-Neville Alternators ............ 8-77

NEW SERVICE KITS FOR FLANGE-MOUNTED LEECE-NEVILLE
ALTERNATORS ...................................................................................... 8-80
Installation of Kit For Flange-Mounted Leece-Neville Alternators ............... 8-81
ALTERNATOR MOUNTING ADAPTOR AND FLYWHEEL HOUSING .......... 8-81
Interchangeability of the Alternator Mounting Adaptor ................................ 8-82
SPECIFICATIONS .................................................................................. 8-83
SHOP NOTES
The following are shop notes for electrical equipment:

CAMSHAFT GEAR RETAINING BOLT LOCKING PLATE (COACH ENGINES

WITH 50DN ALTERNATORS)
Because of the positive torque retention provided by this kit. Detroit Diesel recommends
installing it on these units whenever the alternator is removed for any reason. See Figure 8-28.
1. Locking Washer 4. Bolts

2. Locking Plate 5. Camshaft Gear Bolt
3. Washer
Figure 8-28 Camshaft Gear Retaining Bolt Locking Plate (Coach Engines)
Removal of Camshaft Gear Bolt Locking Plate
Install the camshaft gear bolt locking plate as follows:

1. Remove the alternator, camshaft gear retaining bolt, and washer from the engine.
2. Discard the camshaft gear bolt and washer.

Installation of Camshaft Gear Bolt Locking Plate
Install the camshaft gear bolt locking plate as follows:

1. Apply a light coating of International Compound #2 to the threads under the head of the
new camshaft gear retaining bolt. Wipe off any excess compound.
2. Install the camshaft gear retaining bolt and new two-hole washer, aligning the mounting
holes of washer with those on the cam gear.
3. To maintain alignment of the mounting holes with the cam gear, install the two 5/16 in.-24
socket-head bolts finger tight.
4. Torque the remaining bolt to 244-258 N·m (180-190 lb·ft).
5. Remove the two socket-head bolts.
Alignment of Camshaft Gear Mounting Bolts
Perform the following to align camshaft gear mounting bolts:

1. Place the locking plate over the cam gear retaining bolt head with the 5/16 in. mounting
holes also aligned with those in the cam.
NOTICE:
The locking plate is designed with unique index between the
double-hex center hole and the three pairs of mounting bolt
holes. This provides six index positions between the bolt hex
head and the mounting bolts. Turning the plate over provides
another six unique positions. If all positions are tried without
alignment choose the locking plate orientation which most
closely aligns the mounting bolt holes, then increase the torque
on the cam gear retaining bolt until alignment is achieved. DO
NOT DECREASE TORQUE TO ACHIEVE ALIGNMENT.
2. Install the two 5/16 in.-24 socket head bolts and torque to 31-37 N·m (23-27 lb·ft).
3. Install the alternator. Refer to section 8.1.

DUAL-SOLENOID EMERGENCY SHUTDOWN SYSTEM ON 16V-92TA

MARINE ENGINES
Detroit Diesel has found that the former single-solenoid/latch lever connecting rod shutdown
system used on 16V-92TA marine units may not shut down an engine completely if the rod
connecting the shut down latch levers are not adjusted properly. See Figure 8-29.
1. Solenoid 3. Latch Lever Connecting Rod

2. Air Shutdown Assembly
Figure 8-29 Former Single Solenoid/Latch Lever Connecting Rod Shutdown

System

PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
To eliminate the potential for engine run-on caused by a mis-adjusted latch lever connecting rod,
a dual-solenoid shutdown system has replaced the former single-solenoid/latch lever connecting
rod shutdown system on all 16V-92 TA marine engines.
In the dual-solenoid system, each shutdown assembly is activated by its own solenoid, thereby
eliminating the need for a connecting rod between the shutdown latch levers. See Figure 8-30.
1. Air Shutdown Assembly 2. Solenoid
Figure 8-30 Dual Solenoid Shutdown System

The dual-solenoid system provides positive engine shutdown without the need for periodic latch
lever connecting rod adjustment. Detroit Diesel recommends replacing the former system with
the dual solenoid system whenever convenient.
Replacement of Former Shutdown System with the Dual-Solenoid System

on 16V-92TA Marine Engines
Replace the former shutdown system with the dual-solenoid system on a 16V-92 marine engine
as follows:
1. Remove the adjustable rod connecting the two shutdown latch levers.
2. If installed, remove the solenoid and solenoid mounting bracket.
3. Disconnect the air inlet piping from the shutdown air inlet housings.
4. Remove the former shutdown assemblies.
NOTE:
The air shutdown assemblies used in the dual solenoid system are completely
assembled and adjusted at the factory before being shipped. No further adjustments
should be required.
5. With the dual solenoid shutdown assemblies latched in the open position and using fresh
gaskets, install the shutdowns onto the air inlet adaptors.
6. Reconnect the air inlet piping to the shutdown air inlet housings.

7. See Figure 8-31, and wire the shutdown solenoids to the electrical system of the engine as
shown. Provide a push button type switch to complete the circuit.
1. Customer-Furnished Shutdown Switch Snap Acting 3. Rear Air Shutdown Solenoid 24 Volt
10 AMP Minute Rating
2. Front Air Shutdown Solenoid 24 Volt 4. Battery 24 Volt
Figure 8-31 Dual-Solenoid Shutdown System Wiring Schematic
8. With the engine not running, energize the solenoids and check to ensure that both air
shutdown valves close at the same time.
9. Reset the air shutdown valves to the open position and start the engine.

NOTICE:
To avoid possible engine damage, perform the following step
with the engine at idle. Activating the shutdown system with the
engine running at high RPM may result in blower seal damage
and may also cause turbocharger damage.
10. With the engine at idle, activate the engine shutdown system.
NOTE:
Both shutdowns should close immediately and the engine should stop. If both shutdowns
do not close, check the wiring for proper connections.
NOTE:
Engines equipped with electrical shutdown systems must also have a back-up
mechanical shutdown system that will allow the operator to manually shut down the
engine in the event of electrical system failure.
11. After checking shutdown assemblies for proper operation, install a bowden onto each
shutdown latch lever and connect the wires to a single handle.
12. Adjust wires so that one pull of the handle will close both shutdowns at the same moment.
NOTICE:
To ensure efficient electrical shutdown deployment and avoid
possible interference which may lead to shutdown failure, engine
run-on, and possible engine damage, install the bowden wires so
that they do not interfere with latch lever or solenoid operation.
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
NOTE:
The air shutdown valves located in the housings must be reset to the open position by
hand and the emergency stop knob pushed on before the engine is ready to start again.
PROPER OPERATION OF THE SWITCHES OR ALARM SYSTEM FOR

TESTING THE ELECTRICAL SHUTDOWN
The protective system is activated whenever low lubricating oil pressure, high coolant
temperature, engine overspeed, or any other abnormal condition develops that could damage
the engine.

In a properly maintained installation, the shutdown system seldom has cause to function. Check
the system periodically to ensure that it will function when needed.
Check each component of the shutdown system as outlined below:
NOTE:
Thoroughly warm-up the engine before any component of the shutdown system is
checked.
Overspeed Governor
Check the overspeed governor as follows:

1. Remove the valve rocker cover. Discard the gasket.
2. Start the engine, and move the speed control lever to the full-speed position.
3. While watching a tachometer, manually move the control tube slowly toward the increased
fuel position until the air shutoff valve closes and stops the engine.
NOTE:
Do not exceed the engine no-load operating speed by more than 10%.
4. Observe the speed at which the engine stops, and adjust the overspeed governor if
necessary.
5. Using new gaskets, install the valve rocker cover.
Water Temperature Switch
Check the water temperature switch as follows:
NOTE:
The terminals of the water temperature switch are connected into the shutdown system.
When the engine water temperature reaches 99°C (210°F), the switch closes and
completes the circuit in the shutdown or alarm system.
1. Cover the radiator with a sheet of cardboard to prevent circulation of air.

HOT COOLANT
2. With the engine cooled down, remove the radiator cap, if the engine is operating near sea
level, and insert a steel jacketed thermometer.
NOTE:
The boiling point of water lowers approximately -16.67°C (2°F) for each 1000 foot rise in
altitude. For example, water boils at approximately 95°C (203°F) at 5000 feet and at
90°C (195°F) at 9000 feet altitude. Keep the radiator pressure cap on engines operating
at higher than 1000 feet to prevent the coolant from boiling while performing this test. An
accurate engine temperature gage must be used when performing this test.
NOTE:
Do not exceed 99°C (210°F) when performing this test.
3. Start and run the engine at rated speed and with enough load to raise the water temperature
gradually until the air shutoff valve closes. The water temperature switch will usually
be set at 99°C (210°F).
4. Observe the temperature at which the air shutoff valve closed.
5. Remove the radiator cover, and start the engine without load immediately after the engine
stops. This will permit the engine to cool to normal operating temperature.
Fuel Oil Pressure Switch
The fuel oil pressure switch is set to make contact at an increasing fuel pressure of 138 kPa
(20 lb/in.2). The phrase "20-MAKE" is stamped on the switch cover.

As the fuel pressure increases, a diaphragm in the switch body expands, forcing the plunger
upward. See Figure 8-32. Since the bottom of the adjusting screw bears against this plunger, the
adjusting screw and the lower breaker point are also forced upward. When the fuel pressure
reaches 138 kPa (20 lb/in.2), the breaker points close, and current flows to the terminals of the
lubricating oil pressure switch and the water temperature switch.
Figure 8-32 Fuel Oil Pressure Switch
With the engine stopped, the fuel pressure decreases, and the diaphragm in the switch body
contracts. This causes the plunger to lower and, when the fuel pressure decreases to 138 kPa
(20 lb/in.2), permits the lower breaker point arm to lower and break the electrical circuit.
The bracket to which the lower breaker point arm and the adjusting screw are attached is
spring-loaded, which provides for positive breaking of the connection when the fuel pressure
decreases sufficiently.
Check the fuel oil pressure switch as follows:
1. Insert a pressure gage on the discharge side of the fuel strainer.
2. While performing this test, remove one of the leads from the lubricating oil pressure
switch. This will prevent engine shutdown.
3. Start and run the engine at idle speed.
4. Slow the engine by moving the speed control lever toward the no-fuel position until the
fuel pressure is approximately 103 kPa (15 lb/in.2) with the engine barely turning over.
5. Place a jumper wire across the water temperature switch terminals.
6. Raise the engine speed slowly, and watch the fuel oil pressure gage until the air shutoff
valve closes.

7. Observe the fuel pressure at which the air shutoff valve closed, and if necessary, replace
the switch.
8. Remove the jumper wire from the water temperature switch, and reconnect the lubricating
oil pressure switch.
Lubricating Oil Pressure Switch
The lubricating oil pressure switch is similar to the fuel oil pressure switch, except that the
lubricating oil pressure switch is calibrated to break contact when the lubricating oil pressure
increases to 69 kPa (10 lb/in.2). The phrase "10 BREAK" is stamped on the switch cover.
A 138 kPa (20 lb/in.2) break switch is used on some engines that predominantly operate at
constant speed.
As the lubricating oil pressure increases, the diaphragm in the switch body expands, forcing the
plunger upward. See Figure 8-33.
Figure 8-33 Lubricating Oil Pressure Switch
Since the bottom of the adjusting screw bears against the plunger, and the adjusting screw is
attached to the bracket which controls the upper breaker point arm, the arm is also forced upward.
When the lubricating oil pressure increases to 69 kPa (10 lb/in.2), the points separate. Current
flows to the lubricating oil pressure switch only after the fuel oil pressure switch closes, while the
points of the lubricating oil switch are open. If the lubricating oil pressure decreases to 69 kPa
(10 lb/in.2) during operation, the breaker point will close and either the alarm bell or shutdown
solenoid will be energized.
Check the lubricating oil pressure switch as follows:

1. Start and run the engine at idle speed.
2. Place a jumper wire on the hot wire relay between the "1" and "S" terminals.
3. Place a jumper wire across the fuel oil pressure switch terminals.
4. Reduce the engine speed by moving the control lever towards the no-fuel position while
watching the lubricating oil pressure gage.
5. Observe the oil pressure at which the switch stops the engine and, if necessary, replace
the switch.
6. Remove the jumper wire.
Adjust Bellows
Perform the following procedure to adjust bellows:

1. To adjust the bellows low oil pressure setting, run the engine until normal operating
temperature (160-185°F or 71-85°C) has been reached, and the oil pressure has stabilized.
2. Reduce the engine speed slowly until the bellows disengage the latch on the air shutdown
valve, stopping the engine.
3. Observe the oil pressure at which the shutdown occurred. The oil pressure at
disengagement should be 34-69 kPa (5-10 lb/in.2) at 450-600 RPM, 69-103 kPa
(10-15 lb/in.2) at 601-1400 RPM, or 103-138 kPa (15-20 lb/in.2) at 1401 RPM and above.
NOTICE:
Set the bellows disengagement pressure near the high end of
the pressure range for the specified low engine speed.
4. If adjustment is necessary, loosen the locknut on the bellows, and turn the adjusting screw
clockwise to increase the oil pressure setting or counterclockwise to decrease the setting.
5. Hold the adjusting screw, and tighten the locknut when the proper setting has been
obtained.
Adjust the Latch Bracket on the Air Shutdown Valve
Adjust the latch bracket as follows:

1. Push the solenoid plunger all the way in until it bottoms.
2. Hold this position while adjusting the bracket. This will ensure maximum pull force
when the solenoid is activated.
3. Loosen the locknuts on the solenoid plunger shaft.
4. Turn the inboard nut clockwise to move the bracket and latch toward the solenoid,
counterclockwise to move them away from the solenoid.

NOTICE:
If not adjusted properly, the valve may not close completely
when activated, and the engine will not shut off during abnormal
operating conditions. This could cause severe engine damage.
5. Adjust the bracket position so when the latch is tripped, the high point of the rotating cam
clears the latch end by 0.79375-2.38125 mm (0.03125-0.09375 in.).
NOTE:
Excess latch-to-cam clearance greatly reduces solenoid pull force.
6. Tighten the locknuts to retain adjustment.
Test Air Shutdown Operation
Test air shutdown operation as follows:
NOTICE:
To avoid possible engine damage from shutdown failure, test
air shutdown assemblies, whether electrical or manual, at least
once a year or after 700 hours engine operation, whichever
comes first.
1. Start the engine and allow it to idle.

2. Using the required DC voltage, activate the shutdown solenoid.
3. The shutdown-valve should close, stopping the engine.
[a] If the valve does not close, determine and correct the cause. Refer to section 6.4.
Hot Wire Relay
Perform the hot wire relay as follows:

1. Start and operate the engine at idle speed.
2. Place the jumper wire across the terminals of the lubricating oil pressure switch while
watching the second hand of a clock.
3. Not more than 3 to 10 seconds should elapse between the time the jumper wire is placed
across the lubricating oil pressure switch terminals and the air shutoff valve closes.
NOTE:
The above procedures completely test the normally open electrical shutdown system
on an engine.
NOTE:
When the engine is operating at idle speed or above, the air shutoff valve will completely
cut off air from the engine, causing it to stop. However, when the engine is operating at

the low speeds required to test the fuel shutdown and lubricating oil shutdown switches,
the air damper solenoid will close the air shutoff valve, but the engine may continue to
run very slowly. This is because the low air flow on the back of the shutoff valve may be
insufficient to close it completely.
Solid State Time Delay Switch 12, 24, or 32 Volts-Direct Current
A solid state time delay switch is used on current engines in place of the former hot wire relay.
See Figure 8-34, and bench test the solid state time delay switch as follows:
1. Time Delay Switch 4. Light (12 Volt)

2. Jumper Straps 5. Switch
3. Battery (12 Volt)
Figure 8-34 Time Delay Switch Testing Diagram
1. Remove the time delay switch from the engine.

2. Install the jumper straps on terminals "A" to "B" and "E" to "F," if they have been
removed. Normally, the jumper straps are on the time delay switches as supplied.
3. Install a positive battery lead to terminal "A."
4. Install a negative battery lead to one side of a 12 volt light which is a known good test lamp.
5. Install a lead from the opposite side of the light to terminal "D". A switch may be used in
this lead, if desired.
6. The negative lead is connected to "D" or the switch is closed, the lamp should light in 8 to
10 seconds. If not, the time delay switch must be relapsed.
CHECK ENGINE STARTING SWITCH
If experiencing starting difficulty in a vehicle powered by a diesel engine, check whether the
vehicle has a key-type or push button starting switch.
Key-type starting switches are usually unable to carry sufficient current for heavy-duty diesel
engine starter solenoids. The excessive voltage drop in the solenoid circuit restricts the solenoid
pull and prevents the starter from engaging and cranking.
Install a push button starting switch capable of making, breaking and carrying the required
solenoid current. Refer to section 8.4.6. Otherwise, a heavy-duty magnetic switch should be used
along with the key-type switch. The magnetic switch must be capable of making and breaking at
least 90 amperes in a 12 volt system. The key switch will then carry no more than one ampere,
which is sufficient to operate the magnetic switch.
ALIGNMENT TOOLS FOR TACHOMETER DRIVE COVERS AND ADAPTORS
Whenever a tachometer drive cover assembly or a tachometer drive adaptor is installed, the cover
assembly or adaptor must be properly aligned with the tachometer drive shaft.

NOTICE:
Tachometer drive shaft misalignment can impose a side load on
a tachometer drive cable adaptor, leading to gear seizure and
damage to other related components.
To ensure proper alignment, use one of three tools in set J 23068 to establish the proper alignment.
See Figure 8-35.
Figure 8-35 Checking Tachometer Drive Shaft Alignment
NOTE:
Because of the many different combinations of tachometer drive shafts, covers and
adaptors, specific uses for each tool can not be itemized. When performing an alignment,
test fit each tool to determine which provides the best fit, and make the alignment with
that tool.
Components are aligned when the tachometer drive shaft does not bind on the inside diameter of
the tool while a complete hand rotation of the engine is made.
MOUNTING THE STARTER AUXILIARY MAGNETIC SWITCH
On certain railcar and highway units equipped with Detroit Diesel engines and Delco-Remy
starter auxiliary magnetic switches, a no-start condition may result from vibration damage to the
starter auxiliary magnetic switch. Vibration may result from improper auxiliary magnetic switch
mounting.

When mounting a Delco-Remy starter auxiliary magnetic switch, observe the following
guidelines. See Figure 8-36.
Figure 8-36 Starter Auxiliary Magnetic Switch Mounting
NOTE:
Do not mount the switch on the engine.
1. Position the mounting pads on the switch vertically (one above the other).
2. Mount the switch on a rigid bracket, base rail, or fire wall.
3. Mount the switch on a surface perpendicular (90 degrees) to the forward motion of the
vehicle so that contact disc movement is not in line with gravity or vehicle movement.
NEW SEALING COMPONENTS IN FLANGE-MOUNTED LEECE-NEVILLE

ALTERNATORS USED IN MARINE APPLICATIONS
To reduce the possibility of oil leaks between the engine flywheel housing and alternator, new
sealing components have been released for flange-mounted Leece-Neville alternators used in
marine applications.
New Components For Flange-Mounted Leece-Neville Alternators
A new alternator fan guard assembly with Teflon-lip seal, new beaded guard-to-adaptor gasket,
and new bolt seal washers (stat-o-seals) now form part of the production-only alternator
assemblies:
NOTE:
These production-only assemblies are not serviced separately.

The lay down design of the bi-directional Teflon-lip seal provides greater surface contact with
the alternator hub. See Figure 8-37.
1. Teflon-Lip Sealing Element 3. Metal Cases

2. Gasket 4. Seal Face
Figure 8-37 Teflon-Lip Oil Seal
This virtually eliminates the possibility of oil leaks at this point. The sealant bead around the
center hole of the guard-to-adaptor gasket and the alternator mounting bolt seal washers further
reduce the chance of leaks. See Figure 8-38.

1. Drive Coupling 10. Bearing

2. Nut 11. Hub
3. Lock Washer 12. Guard Seal Assembly
4. Plain Washer 13. Woodruff Key
5. Bolt (2) 14. Alternator Assembly
6. Gasket (2) 15. Spacer
7. Adaptor Plate 16. Cooling Fan
8. Long Bolt 17. Seal
9. Coupling Block 18. Short Bolt
Figure 8-38 Typical Alternator, Fan Guard, Hub Installation

NEW SERVICE KITS FOR FLANGE-MOUNTED LEECE-NEVILLE
ALTERNATORS
To conform with this change, two new seal and hub service kits have been released for use on
marine engines. The kits include a new fan guard assembly (with seal installed), new beaded
gasket, new bolt seal washers, a replacement drive hub, and adaptor-to-flywheel housing
mounting gasket(s).
Because of the improved sealing these components provide, DDC recommends using a new kit
whenever one of the flange-mounted Leece-Neville alternators are replaced on a marine unit. Kit
parts are also available separately for units already having the new fan guard assembly installed.
Prior to installation, inspect the components as follows:
NOTE:
The alternator must be removed from the engine before the fan guard/seal assembly
can be replaced.
1. Inspect the fan guard/seal assembly to ensure the Teflon-lip seal face is flush with the dry
side of the guard housing and square within the bore.
2. Remove the cardboard insert from the seal, and inspect the seal for cuts, nicks, folds, or
any other material damage.
[a] If cut, nicked, folded, or damaged, replace the seal.
[b] If not cut, nicked, folded, or damaged, continue inspection.
3. Check for metal chips or slivers in both the seal O.D. and lip areas.
EYE INJURY
[a] If chips or slivers are present, remove with air, if possible.
NOTE:
Wiping may scratch the seal or embed the chip.
4. Inspect the seal contact surface of the alternator drive hub for nicks, pits, or rust.
[a] Replace if nicked, pitted, or rusted.
[b] If not nicked, pitted, or rusted, continue inspection.
5. Inspect for the proper lead chamfer.
NOTE:
The lead chamfer must be free of cuts, nicks, scratches which could damage the seal.

[a] If cut, nicked, or scratched, replace.

[b] If not cut, nicked, or scratched, replace.
NOTICE:
Do not lubricate the seal or hub before installation. Teflon-lip
seals must be installed dry. This allows transfer of the
Teflon-to-hub surface for proper sealing. Failure to observe this
precaution can result in seal leaks.
6. Wipe the hub sealing surface dry.
Installation of Kit For Flange-Mounted Leece-Neville Alternators
Install the service kit as follows:

1. Place the guard/hub assembly onto the alternator as one piece, ensuring it is properly
aligned. Press down until the hub is seated.
2. Apply thread sealant to the flange nut threads.
3. Start the flange nut on the alternator drive shaft by hand, and tighten to 95-108 N·m
4. Check to ensure the fan is tight. Hold the fan guard against the alternator, and using
a screwdriver, pry up gently on the fan.
NOTE:
The fan should not move.
5. Position the beaded gasket on the alternator/fan guard assembly so that the narrow (cut)
side of the gasket lines up with the flat on the guard casting and the bead faces the guard.
6. Place the drive coupling on the hub.
7. Remove the alternator-to-flywheel housing adaptor, and replace the small hole gasket.
NOTE:
The kit contains two gaskets for this location. Ensure that the correct gasket is used in
conjunction with the pilot diameter of this adaptor.
8. Apply thread sealant to the bolts, and assemble the coupling on the hub using the six seal
washers between the plain washers and adaptor. Tighten to 47-53 N·m (35-39 lb·ft) torque.
9. Fit the coupling onto the hub and assemble the alternator/fan guard/hub assembly to the
adaptor using three 3/8 in.-16 bolts with lock washers and plain washers. Tighten to
41-47 N·m (30-35 lb·ft) torque.
ALTERNATOR MOUNTING ADAPTOR AND FLYWHEEL HOUSING
The improved alternating mounting adaptor used along with the improved housings provide a
greater resistance to cracking at the alternator mounting studs.

Interchangeability of the Alternator Mounting Adaptor
If an adaptor-mounted alternator is installed on an improved flywheel housing, the improved

adaptor must be used to ensure interchangeability. The improved adaptor also can be used on
former flywheel housings. The former adaptor cannot be used on the improved flywheel housings.
Refer to section 1.19.3 for the flywheel housing installation procedure. Refer to section 8.1.2 for
camshaft-driven alternator and mounting adaptor (flange) installation procedure. Refer to section
1.31.19 for the alternator mounting adaptor/step-up gear alignment procedure which is required
when installing a camshaft gear-driven alternator.
NOTICE:
Failure to properly align the alternator mounting adaptor with the
step-up gear may result in gear train damage at start-up.
When installing the improved adaptor on an improved flywheel housing, use hole set "J" to adjust
the adaptor to the alternator step-up gear. When installing the improved adaptor on a former
flywheel housing, use hole set "H" for adjustment. See Figure 8-39.
Figure 8-39 Alternator Adaptor Showing Location of "H" and "J" Adjusting
Holes

Application Thread lb·ft N·m

Flange Mounted Alternator
3/8-24 15-20 20-27
Adaptor Nut
Tachometer Drive
7/16-14 30-35 41-47
Cover Bolt
Tachometer Drive
1/2-13 30-35 41-47
Cover Bolt
Tachometer Drive Shaft
1/2-20 55-65 75-88
(Blower)
Starting Motor Switch
5/8-32 36-48 45-65
Mounting Nut
Starting Motor Attaching
Bolts (Aluminum Flywheel 5/8-11 95-105 129-143
Housing)
50 DN Alternator
1/2-13 53-56 72-76
Mounting Nut
50 DN Alternator
3/8-16 30-35 41-47
Mounting Nut
50 DN Alternator Mounting
1/2-13 20-25 27-34
Stud
50 DN Alternator Mounting
3/8-16 20-25 27-34
Stud

9 POWER TAKE-OFF
Section Page
9.1 POWER TAKE-OFF TORQMATIC CONVERTER ................................... 9-3

9.1 POWER TAKE-OFF TORQMATIC CONVERTER
DDC does not service the power take-off torqmatic converter. Refer to OEM guidelines for
service information.

9.1 POWER TAKE-OFF TORQMATIC CONVERTER

10 SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
Section Page
10.1 AIR COMPRESSOR ............................................................................... 10-3

10.2 ENGINE BLOCK HEATER ....................................................................... 10-9
10.3 TRANSMISSIONS .................................................................................. 10-10
10.1 AIR COMPRESSOR
The air compressor can be mounted on a bracket attached to the engine cylinder block and
belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley, or it can be flange-mounted to the flywheel housing and
gear driven by an accessory drive attached to a camshaft gear. See Figure 10-1.
1. Air Compressor Lines 3. Flywheel Housing

2. Air Compressor Assembly
Figure 10-1 Air Compressor Mounting (Flange Mounted)
A six bolt design air compressor mounting base, mounting bracket, and gasket are used on engines
equipped with a belt-driven air compressor.

10.1 AIR COMPRESSOR
The air compressor runs continuously while the engine is running. With the compressor running,
the compressor governor, which acts in conjunction with the unloading mechanism in the
compressor cylinder block, controls the actual air compression. The governor starts and stops
the air compression. The governor loads or unloads the compressor when the air pressure in the
system reaches the desired minimum or maximum pressure.
During each piston down stroke, a partial vacuum is created above the piston, which unseats the
inlet valve and allows air drawn from the airbox or through an intake strainer to enter the cylinder
above the piston. As the piston starts the upward stroke, the air pressure on top of the inlet
valves and the inlet valve return spring force closed the inlet valve. The air above the piston is
compressed until the pressure lifts the discharge valve. The compressed air is discharged through
the discharge line into the reservoir.
As each piston starts its down stroke, the discharge valve above it returns to its seat, preventing
the compressed air from returning to the cylinder. The cycle repeats.
When the air pressure in the reservoir reaches the maximum governor setting, compressed air
from the reservoir passes through the governor into the cavity below the unloading piston in the
compressor cylinder block. The air pressure lifts the unloading pistons, which lifts the inlet
valves off their seats.
With the inlet valves held off their seats, the air during each piston upstroke is passed back
through the air inlet cavity and to the other cylinder, where the piston is on the down stroke. When
the air pressure in the reservoir drops to the minimum governor setting, the governor releases the
air pressure beneath the unloading pistons. The unloading piston return spring forces the piston
down, and the inlet valve springs return the inlet valves to their seats. Compression resumes.
PERSONAL INJURY
system.
The Midland air compressor oil test card is used to test engine-mounted air compressors for
excessive oil leaks.

Air compressor oil test card DD5524 is available from authorized Detroit Diesel service outlets.
See Figure 10-2.
Figure 10-2 Midland Air Compressor Oil Test Card

10.1 AIR COMPRESSOR
EYE INJURY
To avoid injury from oil spray, wear adequate eye protection
(face shield or safety goggles) when performing the oil test
procedure.
Follow the instructions printed on both sides of the card for optimum test results. If compressor is
under warranty, return to Detroit Diesel for testing with the oil card.
NOTE:
When installing a pulley or a drive hub on a flange mounted air compressor, the 3/4
in.-16 drive shaft slotted nut must be tightened to 136 N·m (100 lb·ft) torque minimum
before installing the 3/32 in. x 1-1/4 in. cotter pin. See Figure 10-3.
1. Air Compressor Assembly 3. Cotter Pin

2. Drive Hub 4. Slotted Nut
Figure 10-3 Typical Air Compressor with Drive Hub
Perform the procedure as follows:
NOTE:
The air compressor drive shaft will turn during the torquing operation unless some
provision is made to hold it.

1. Weld a modified drive coupling to a support or base. See Figure 10-4.
1. Bolt 3. Air Compressor Assembly

2. Holding Fixture 4. Nut
Figure 10-4 Fixture for Holding Drive While Installing or Removing Slotted
Nut
2. Anchor the base to the compressor mounting flange.
NOTE:
An old flywheel housing cover that matches the compressor flange makes an ideal
base for the modified coupling.
3. Mesh the coupling exterior splines with the drive hub internal splines.

10.1 AIR COMPRESSOR
4. Secure the entire assembly to the compressor housing.
NOTE:
The hub and shaft will not rotate when torque is applied.
5. Remove the part of the base within the coupling inner diameter to permit wrench socket
placement on the nut.
6. Secure the base to the compressor during the torquing operation with two bolts.
10.1.1 Repair or Replacement of Air Compressor
The air compressor is not a serviceable item. Refer to OEM guidelines or an authorized Detroit
Diesel distributor for service recommendations.

10.2 ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
To improve engine block heater maintenance, adhere to the following procedure:

Any time the engine cooling system is drained, the electrical connections to the engine block
heater must first be disconnected. Failure to follow this procedure will result in damage to the
engine block heater.
The label is available under part number 23515818 and should be placed in a prominent location
on any engine with a block heater. See Figure 10-5.
Figure 10-5 Block Heater Caution Label

10.3 TRANSMISSIONS
10.3 TRANSMISSIONS
DDC does not service the transmission. Refer to OEM Guidelines for service information.
For service and overhaul procedures for Allison products, refer to the manufacturer:
Allison Transmission Division
General Motors Corporation
P.O. Box 894
Indianapolis, IN 46206-0894
For service and overhaul procedures for the Twin Disc Marine Gear assembly, refer to the
manufacturer:
Twin Disc, Inc.
1328 Racine Street
Racine, Wisc. 53403
10.3.1 Marine Transmission Trolling Valve Operation
When the troll mode is used for extended periods of time (over two hours), marine gear oil
temperature alarms should be installed and set for 90.8°C (195°F).
If the alarm sounds while the troll mode is in use, perform one of the following steps:
1. Once every hour, put the gear in neutral and run the engine at a higher RPM. This will
cool the gear oil to an acceptable temperature.
2. Determine whether the desired prop shaft speed can be achieved while running at a higher
engine speed and moving the troll lever to a higher slip position.
NOTE:
At higher engine RPM's, vibration or "chatter" may become evident near clutch lock-up.
This is an audible indication that the output speed is more than 75% of lock-up. This is
not an approved operating range.
To eliminate vibration, perform one or both of the following steps:

1. Reduce trolling lever position, and increase engine speed within allowable control limits.
2. Decrease engine speed, and shift out of troll to lock-up position.

11 OPERATION AND VERIFICATION
Section Page
11.1 PREPARATION FOR A FIRST TIME START ........................................... 11-3

11.2 STARTING .............................................................................................. 11-7
11.3 RUNNING ................................................................................................ 11-10
11.4 STOPPING .............................................................................................. 11-15
11.5 OPERATING CONDITIONS ..................................................................... 11-17
11.6 ENGINE RUN-IN PROCEDURES ........................................................... 11-51
11.1 PREPARATION FOR A FIRST TIME START
Before starting an engine for the first time, carefully read and follow the instructions contained in
this chapter and refer to section 12.
NOTICE:
Attempting to run the engine before studying these instructions
may result in serious engine damage.
NOTICE:
Failure to perform the required prestart operations will result in
engine damage.
When preparing to start a new or overhauled engine, or an engine which has been in storage,
perform all of the operations listed below. Before a routine start (at each shift), refer to section
13.2.1 for "Daily Interval Maintenance".
11.1.1 Installation of Drain Cocks or Plugs in Cooling System
Install all drain cocks or plugs in the cooling system as follows:

1. Open the cooling system vents, if used.
2. Remove the filler cap, and fill the cooling system with a specified coolant. Refer to section
NOTE:
Keep the liquid level about two inches below the filler neck to allow fluid expansion.
3. Close the vents, if used, after filling the cooling system.
NOTICE:
Failure to prime the raw water pump may result in damage to the
pump impeller.
4. On marine installations, prime the raw water cooling system, and open any sea cocks in
the raw water pump intake line. Refer to section 13.54.
5. Remove the pipe plug or electrode provided in the pump outlet elbow, and pour water in
the pump.
11.1.2 Pre-Lubricate Lubrication System
To ensure an immediate oil flow to all bearing surfaces at initial engine start-up, DDC recommends
that the engine lubrication system be charged with a commercially available pressure prelubricator.
Pre-lubricate as follows:

1. Remove the pipe plug from the engine main oil gallery, and attach the prelubricator hose.
2. Remove the valve rocker cover(s) and, using a positive displacement pump set at
172-241 kPa (25-35 lb/in.2), pump the recommended grade engine lubricating oil until it
flows from the rocker arms.
3. If the engine is turbocharged, disconnect the oil supply lines at the turbo bearing (center)
housings, and fill the bearing housing cavities with approximately 1/2 liter (one pint) of
the recommended grade clean engine oil.
4. Turn the rotating assemblies by hand to coat all internal surfaces with oil.
5. Install the turbo oil supply lines. Refer to secton 6.6.5.
6. After 20 minutes, check the crankcase oil level. Add enough oil to bring the level to
the "full" mark on the dipstick.
NOTE:
Do not overfill crankcase.
7. Disconnect the prelubricator hose, and plug the main oil gallery hole.
8. Replace all components previously removed.
9. Before initial engine start-up, DDC recommends cranking the engine with the governor
in the no-fuel position until oil pressure registers on the gage.For engine lubricating oil
recommendations, refer to section 13.5.
NOTE:
If a pressure prelubricator is not available, fill the crankcase to the proper level with
the specified heavy-duty lubricating oil. Refer to section 13.5.1. Remove the valve
rocker covers, and pour lubricating oil (the same grade and viscosity as that used in the
crankcase) over the rocker arms.
11.1.3 Turbocharger Run-In
Perform turbocharger run-in as follows:

1. Clean the area, and disconnect the oil inlet line at the bearing housing.
2. Fill the bearing housing cavity with clean engine oil.
3. Install the oil line.
4. Clean any spilled oil.

PERSONAL INJURY
NOTICE:
Starting any turbocharged engine and accelerating to any speed
above idle before engine oil supply and pressure has reached
the free floating bearings can cause severe damage to the shaft
and bearings of the turbocharger.
5. Start and run the engine at idle until oil pressure and supply has reached all turbocharger
moving parts.
NOTE:
When the oil pressure gage registers 69 kPa (10 lb/in.2) pressure at idle speed, all
moving parts are lubricated.
NOTE:
The free floating bearings in the turbocharger center housing require positive lubrication.
Before the turbocharger reaches its maximum operating speed which is produced by
high engine speeds, run it at idle.
11.1.4 Transmission
Check the oil level and, if necessary, fill the transmission case, marine gear, or torque converter
supply tank to the proper lever with the specified lubricant. Refer to section 13.5.1.
11.1.5 Fuel System
Fill the fuel system as follows:

1. Fill the fuel tank with the specified fuel. Refer to section 5.1.
2. Open the fuel valve (if the unit is equipped with one).
3. Fill the fuel system between the pump and the fuel return manifold with fuel to ensure
prompt starting.
NOTE:
If the engine has been out of service for a considerable length of time, prime the fuel
system between the fuel pump and the fuel return manifold.

4. Remove the plug in the top of the fuel filter cover, and slowly fill the filter with fuel.
NOTE:
On an engine equipped with a hydrostarter, use a priming pump to ensure the fuel lines
and the injectors are filled with fuel before attempting to start the engine.
NOTE:
The fuel system is filled with fuel before leaving the factory. If the fuel is still in the system
when preparing to start the engine, priming should be unnecessary.
11.1.6 Lubrication Fittings
Prepare the lubrication fittings as follows:

1. Fill all grease cups, and lubricate at all fittings with an all purpose grease (except for fan
hub pulley fitting) Refer to section 13.33.
2. Apply lubricating oil to the throttle linkage and other moving parts, and fill the hinged cap
oilers with a hand oiler.
11.1.7 Drive Belts
Adjust all drive belts. Refer to section 13.18.
11.1.8 Battery
Examine the battery. The top should be clean and dry. The terminals should be tight and protected
with a petroleum jelly. The electrolyte must be at the proper level.
NOTE:
When necessary, check the battery with a hydrometer. The reading should be 1.265 or
higher. Hydrometer readings should always be corrected for the temperature of the
electrolyte.
11.1.9 Generator Set
Where applicable, fill the generator end bearing housing with the same lubricating oil as used in
the engine.
NOTICE:
A generator set should be connected and grounded in
accordance with the applicable local electrical codes. Failure to
observe this notice may result in electrical shortage to generator
set.
11.1.10 Clutch
Disengage the clutch, if equipped.

11.2 STARTING
Before starting the engine for the first time, perform the operations listed under Preparation For
Starting Engine First Time. Refer to section 11.1.
Before a routine start, refer to section 13.1 "Daily Operations".
NOTICE:
If a manual or an automatic shutdown system is incorporated
in the unit, the control must be set in the open position before
starting the engine. The blower will be seriously damaged if
operated with the air shutoff valve in the closed position.
NOTE:
On engines with dual air shutdown housings, both air shutoff valves must be in the
open position before starting the engine.
NOTE:
Starting at air temperatures below 40°F (4°C) requires the use of a cold weather starting
aid.
FIRE, EXPLOSION AND TOXICITY

To avoid injury from flames, explosion, and toxicants when
using ether, the following precautions must be taken:
□ Do not smoke when servicing ether system.
□ Work in well ventilated area.
□ Do not work near open flames, pilot flames (gas or oil
heaters), or sparks.
□ Do not weld or carry an open flame near the ether
system if you smell ether or otherwise suspect a leak.
□ Always wear goggles when testing.
□ If fluid enters the eyes or if fumes irritate the eyes, wash
eyes with large quantities of clean water for 15 minutes.
A physician, preferably an eye specialist, should be
contacted.
□ Contents of cylinder are under pressure. Store cylinders
in a cool dry area. Do not incinerate, puncture or
attempt to remove cores from cylinders.
The instructions for cold weather fluid starting aid use will vary depending on the type used.
Reference should be made to these instructions before attempting a cold weather start.

11.2 STARTING
11.2.1 Initial Engine Start (Electric)
Start an engine equipped with an electric starting motor as follows:

1. Set the speed control lever at part throttle.
2. Bring it back to the desired no-load speed.
3. On mechanical governors, ensure stop lever on the governor cover is in the run position.
On hydraulic governors, make sure the stop knob is pushed all the way in.
4. Press the starting motor switch firmly.
NOTICE:
To prevent serious damage to the starter, if the engine does not
start, do not press the starting switch again while the starting
motor is running.
5. If the engine fails to start within 30 seconds, release the starting switch, and allow the
starting motor to cool a few minutes before trying again.
6. If the engine fails to start after four attempts, an inspection for the cause.
11.2.2 Initial Engine Start (Air Starter)
Because of the limited storage tank volume and the relatively short cranking cycle, ensure engine
is ready to start before activating the air starter.
Start an engine equipped with an air starter as follows:
1. Set the speed control lever at part throttle.
2. Bring it back to the desired no-load speed.
3. Ensure stop lever on the mechanical governor cover is in the "run" position. On hydraulic
governors, ensure stop knob is pushed all the way in.
4. Check the pressure in the air storage tank.
5. If necessary, add air to bring the pressure up to the recommended minimum for starting.
6. Press the starter button firmly, and hold until the engine starts.
11.2.3 Initial Engine Start (Hydrostarter)
Start an engine equipped with a hydrostarter as follows:

1. Use the priming pump to ensure fuel filter, fuel lines, and injectors are filled with fuel
before attempting to start the engine.

2. Raise the hydrostarter accumulator pressure with the hand pump until the gage reads as
Ambient Temperature kPa psi

Above 4.4°C (40°F) 10342 1500
4.4 to -18°C (40-0°F) 17237 2500
Below -18°C (0°F) 22753 3300
Table 11-1 Pressure Gage Reading
3. Set the engine controls for starting with the throttle at least half open.
NOTICE:
During cold weather, add starting fluid at the same time the
hydrostarter motor lever is moved. Do not wait to add the fluid
after the engine is turning over. Failure to observe this notice
may result in hydrostarter failure.
4. Push the hydrostarter control lever to simultaneously engage the starter pinion with the
flywheel ring gear and to open the control valve.
5. Close the valve as soon as the engine starts to conserve the accumulator pressure and to
avoid excessive starter drive clutch assembly over-run.

11.3 RUNNING
11.3 RUNNING
The following procedures cover normal operations.
11.3.1 Oil Pressure
Observe the oil pressure gage immediately after starting the engine. If there is no pressure
indicated within 10 to 15 seconds, stop the engine, and check the lubricating oil system.
11.3.2 Warm-Up
Run the engine at part throttle and no-load for approximately five minutes, allowing it to warm-up
before applying a load.
If the unit is operating in a closed room, start the room ventilating fan or open the windows
to supply ample air for the engine.
11.3.3 Inspection of Cooling, Fuel and Lubrication System
While the engine is running at operating temperature, check for coolant refer to section 13.12,
fuel refer to section13.11, fuel lines and flexible hoses, or lubricating oil leaks refer to section
13.5.3, leak check lubrication system. Tighten the line connections where necessary.
11.3.4 Engine Temperature
Refer to section 11.5 for normal engine coolant temperature.

Listed in Table 11-2 are the ambient temperature readings.
Marine Posi- †Test Test Pressure Marine †Test Test Pressure

Position
Gear tion RPM kPa/psi Gear RPM kPa/psi
MG-514
MG-506 138-448 kPa
Neutral (Less Than
(Except 1930-2170 kPa Neutral 600 (20-65 lb/in.2)
and 600 4:1 Ratio)
1.5:1 and (280-315 lb/in.2) Neutral 1800 310-634 kPa
Engaged (Shallow
2:1 Ratio) (40-92 lb/in.2)
Case)
MG-514
MG-506 1447-1619 kPa
Neutral (Less Than
(Except 2067-2205 kPa Engaged 600 (210-235 lb/in.2)
and 1800 4:1 Ratio)
1.5:1 and (300-320 lb/in.2) Engaged 1800 1571-1633 kPa
Engaged (Shallow
2:1 Ratio) (228-237 lb/in.2)
Case)
MG-514
MG-506
(Less Than
(Except Mini- 1861 kPa Mini- 1481 kPa
Cruising 4:1 Ratio) Cruising
1.5:1 and mum (270 lb/in.2) mum (215 lb/in.2)
(Shallow
2:1 Ratio)
Case)


Position
MG-506 MG-514 (4:1 241-448 kPa
Neutral
(Only 1.5:1 2274-2515 kPa and Greater Neutral 600 (35-65 lb/in.2)
and 600
and 2:1 (330-365 lb/in.2) Ratio) (Deep Neutral 1800 379-586 kPa
Engaged
ratios) Case) (50-85 lb/in.2)
MG-506 MG-514 (4:1 241-448 kPa
Neutral
(Only 1.5:1 2412-2550 kPa and Greater Engaged 600 (35-65 lb/in.2)
and 1800
and 2:1 (350-370 lb/in.2) Ratio) (Deep Engaged 1800 379-586 kPa
Engaged
MG-506 MG-514 (4:1
(Only 1.5:1 Mini- 2308 kPa and Greater Mini- 1275 kPa
Cruising Cruising
and 2:1 mum (335 lb/in.2) Ratio) (Deep mum (185 lb/in.2)
ratios) Case)
241-483 kPa 310-586 kPa
MG-509 Neutral 600 MG-521 Neutral 600
(35-70 lb/in.2) (45-85 lb/in.2)
345-586 kPa 517-689 kPa
(50-85 lb/in.2) (475-100 lb/in.2)
1289-1481 kPa 1241-1481 kPa
MG-509 Engaged 600 MG-521 Engaged 600
(187-215 lb/in.2) (180-215 lb/in.2)
1330-1516 kPa 1296-1516 kPa
(193-220 lb/in.2) (188-220 lb/in.2)
Mini- 1137 kPa Mini- 1137 kPa
MG-509 Cruising MG-521 Cruising
mum (165 lb/in.2) mum (165 lb/in.2)
310-483 kPa 310-586 kPa
(45-70 lb/in.2) (45-85 lb/in.2)
414-621 kPa 448-689 kPa
(60-90 lb/in.2) (65-100 lb/in.2)
1275-1481 kPa 1241-1481 kPa
(185-215 lb/in.2) (180-215 lb/in.2)
1344-1516 kPa 1296-1516 kPa
(195-220 lb/in.2) (188-220 lb/in.2)
Mini- 1275 kPa (185 Mini- 1137 kPa
mum lb/in.2) mum (165 lb/in.2)
483-758 kPa
MG-513 Neutral 600 - - - -
(70-110 lb/in.2)
621-896 kPa
MG-513 Neutral 1800 - - - -
(90-130 lb/in.2)
1585-1861 kPa
MG-513 Engaged 600 - - - -
(230-270 lb/in.2)
1654-1930 kPa
MG-513 Engaged 1800 - - - -
(240-280 lb/in.2)
Mini- 1612 kPa
MG-513 Cruising - - - -
mum (234 lb/in.2)
* Sump or heat exchanger inlet 99°C (210°F) maximum. Normal operating range desired 60-82°C (140-180°F) minimum continuous
duty.
† Sump or heat exchanger inlet 107°C (225°F) maximum intermittent permissible in pleasure craft.
Table 11-2 Twin Disc Marine Gear Operating Conditions

11.3 RUNNING
11.3.5 Crankcase
Prepare the crankcase as follows:

1. If the engine crankcase was refilled, stop the engine after normal operating temperature
has been reached.
2. Allow the oil to drain (approximately 20 minutes) back into the crankcase.
3. Check the oil level.
4. Add oil, if necessary, to the proper level on the dipstick. Refer to section 13.5.1.
11.3.6 Clutch
Do not engage a clutch with a sintered iron clutch plate at engine speeds over 850 RPM. A
clutch with an asbestos or vegetable fiber material clutch plate must not be engaged at speeds
over 1000 RPM.
11.3.7 Cooling System
Remove the radiator or heat exchanger tank cap slowly after the engine has reached normal
operating temperature, and check the engine coolant level. The coolant level should be near the
top of the opening. If necessary, add clean soft water or an ethylene glycol base antifreeze.
11.3.8 Transmission
Check the marine gear oil pressure. The operating oil pressure range at operating speed is
621-1034 kPa (90-150 lb/in.2) (Allison Torqmatic gear). The operating oil pressure varies with
the different Twin Disc® gears as listed in Table 11-3. Check, and if necessary, replenish the oil
supply in the transmission.

Position
MG-514
MG-506 138-448 kPa
Neutral (Less Than
(Except 1930-2170 kPa Neutral 600 (20-65 lb/in.2)
and 600 4:1 Ratio)
1.5:1 and (280-315 lb/in.2) Neutral 1800 310-634 kPa
Engaged (Shallow
2:1 Ratio) (40-92 lb/in.2)
Case)
MG-514
MG-506 1447-1619 kPa
Neutral (Less Than
(Except 2067-2205 kPa Engaged 600 (210-235 lb/in.2)
and 1800 4:1 Ratio)
1.5:1 and (300-320 lb/in.2) Engaged 1800 1571-1633 kPa
Engaged (Shallow
2:1 Ratio) (228-237 lb/in.2)
Case)
MG-514
MG-506
(Less Than
(Except Mini- 1861 kPa Mini- 1481 kPa
Cruising 4:1 Ratio) Cruising
1.5:1 and mum (270 lb/in.2) mum (215 lb/in.2)
(Shallow
2:1 Ratio)
Case)


Position
MG-506 MG-514 (4:1 241-448 kPa
Neutral
(Only 1.5:1 2274-2515 kPa and Greater Neutral 600 (35-65 lb/in.2)
and 600
and 2:1 (330-365 lb/in.2) Ratio) (Deep Neutral 1800 379-586 kPa
Engaged
MG-506 MG-514 (4:1 241-448 kPa
Neutral
(Only 1.5:1 2412-2550 kPa and Greater Engaged 600 (35-65 lb/in.2)
and 1800
and 2:1 (350-370 lb/in.2) Ratio) (Deep Engaged 1800 379-586 kPa
Engaged
MG-506 MG-514 (4:1
(Only 1.5:1 Mini- 2308 kPa and Greater Mini- 1275 kPa
Cruising Cruising
and 2:1 mum (335 lb/in.2) Ratio) (Deep mum (185 lb/in.2)
ratios) Case)
241-483 kPa 310-586 kPa
(35-70 lb/in.2) (45-85 lb/in.2)
345-586 kPa 517-689 kPa
(50-85 lb/in.2) (475-100 lb/in.2)
1289-1481 kPa 1241-1481 kPa
(187-215 lb/in.2) (180-215 lb/in.2)
1330-1516 kPa 1296-1516 kPa
(193-220 lb/in.2) (188-220 lb/in.2)
Mini- 1137 kPa Mini- 1137 kPa
mum (165 lb/in.2) mum (165 lb/in.2)
310-483 kPa 310-586 kPa
(45-70 lb/in.2) (45-85 lb/in.2)
414-621 kPa 448-689 kPa
(60-90 lb/in.2) (65-100 lb/in.2)
1275-1481 kPa 1241-1481 kPa
(185-215 lb/in.2) (180-215 lb/in.2)
1344-1516 kPa 1296-1516 kPa
(195-220 lb/in.2) (188-220 lb/in.2)
Mini- 1275 kPa (185 Mini- 1137 kPa
mum lb/in.2) mum (165 lb/in.2)
483-758 kPa
MG-513 Neutral 600 - - - -
(70-110 lb/in.2)
621-896 kPa
MG-513 Neutral 1800 - - - -
(90-130 lb/in.2)
1585-1861 kPa
MG-513 Engaged 600 - - - -
(230-270 lb/in.2)
1654-1930 kPa
MG-513 Engaged 1800 - - - -
(240-280 lb/in.2)
Mini- 1612 kPa
MG-513 Cruising - - - -
mum (234 lb/in.2)
* Sump or heat exchanger inlet 99°C (210°F) maximum. Normal operating range desired 60-82°C (140-180°F) minimum continuous
duty.
† Sump or heat exchanger inlet 107°C (225°F) maximum intermittent permissible in pleasure craft.
Table 11-3 Twin Disc Marine Gear Operating Conditions

11.3 RUNNING
11.3.9 Turbocharger
Inspect the turbocharger for leaks and excessive vibration, refer to section 13.17. Stop the engine
immediately if there is an unusual noise in the turbocharger.
11.3.10 Avoid Unnecessary Engine Idling
During long engine idling periods, the engine coolant temperature will fall below the normal
operating range. The incomplete fuel combustion in a cold engine will cause crankcase dilution,
lacquer or formation, gummy deposits on the valves, pistons, and rings, and rapid sludge
accumulation in the engine.
NOTICE:
When prolonged engine idling is necessary, maintain at least 800
RPM. Failure to follow this notice may result in reduced engine
life.

11.4 STOPPING
Perform the following procedure for stopping the engine.
11.4.1 Normal Stopping
Perform the following for normal stopping:

1. Release the load, and decrease the engine speed.
2. Put all shift levers in the neutral position.
3. Allow the engine to run at half speed or slower with no load for four or five minutes.
4. Move the stop lever to the stop position to stop the engine.
11.4.2 Emergency Stopping
To stop an engine (normal or emergency) equipped with the spring-loaded one-screw design
injector control tube, perform the following procedure:
1. Pull the governor stop lever to the stop position.If engine is equipped with the non-spring
loaded two-screw design injector control tube, and does not stop after using the normal
stopping procedure, perform the following procedure.
2. Pull the Emergency Stop knob all the way out. This control cuts off the air to the engine.
NOTICE:
The emergency shutdown system should never be used except
in an emergency. Emergency shutdown use can cause oil to be
sucked past the oil seals and into the blower housing.
The air shutoff valve, located on the blower air inlet housing, must be reset by hand. The
Emergency Stop knob must be pushed in before the engine can be started again.
NOTE:
Do not try to restart until the cause for the malfunction has been found and corrected.
11.4.3 Fuel System
If the unit is equipped with a fuel valve, close it. Fill the fuel tank. A full tank minimizes
condensation.
11.4.4 Exhaust System
Drain the condensation from the exhaust line or silencer.

11.4 STOPPING
11.4.5 Cooling System
Drain the cooling system if it is not protected with antifreeze and freezing temperatures are
expected. Refer to section 13.12.3. Leave the drains open. Open the heat exchanger cooling
system raw water drains.
11.4.6 Crankcase
Check the oil level in the crankcase. Add oil, if necessary, to bring it to the proper level on
the dipstick.
11.4.7 Transmission
Check and, if necessary, add sufficient oil to bring it to the proper level.
11.4.8 Inspection
Inspect for leaks in the fuel refer to section 13.11, lubricating refer to section 13.5.3, and cooling
systems refer to section 13.12. Tighten the line connections where necessary.
11.4.9 Clean Engine
Clean and check the engine thoroughly to make certain it will be ready for the next run.
Refer to section 13.42 and steam clean engine.
Refer to section 13.1 for information on all daily maintenance operations. Perform the operations
required for the number of hours or miles the engine has been in operation.
Make any adjustments and minor repairs necessary to correct problems encountered by operators
during the previous run.

11.5 OPERATING CONDITIONS
The following charts are included as an aid to troubleshooting. Variations from the conditions as
listed may be indicative of an abnormal situation demanding correction. Ensure that readings
represent true values and that instruments are accurate, before attempting to make corrections to
the engine.

See Figure 11-1 for chart of the operating conditions on all engines (except turbocharged).
Figure 11-1 All Engines (Except Turbocharged)
See Figure 11-2 for chart of the operating conditions on 6V-T engines with TI8A40 turbocharger.

Figure 11-2 6V-T Engines with TI8A40 Turbocharger and 1.14 A/R* Turbine
Housing

See Figure 11-3 for chart of the operating conditions on 6V-T (OTM) engines.
Figure 11-3 6V-T (OTM) Engines with TVI802 Turbocharger and 1.23 A/R*
Turbine Housing — 9290 Injectors

See Figure 11-4 for chart of the operating conditions on 6V-TA and 6V-TAC engines with
TV7101 turbocharger and 1.23 A/R* turbine housing — California coach
Figure 11-4 6V-TA and 6V-TAC Engines with TV7101 Turbocharger and 1.23
A/R* Turbine Housing — California Coach

TV7101 turbocharger and 1.39 A/R* turbine housing — coach
A/R* Turbine Housing — Coach

TV7101 turbocharger and 1.39 A/R* turbine housing — coach continued.
A/R* Turbine Housing — Coach Continued

TV7111 turbocharger and 1.23 A/R* turbine housing — 1981 and 1982 automotive.
A/R* Turbine Housing — 1981 and 1982 Automotive


See Figure 11-9 for chart of the operating conditions on 6V-TA engines with TV8102 turbocharger
and 1.08 A/R* turbine housing — 9A90 injectors.
Figure 11-9 6V-TA Engines with TV8102 Turbocharger and 1.08 A/R* Turbine
Housing — 9A90 Injectors

TV8102 turbocharger and 1.23 A/R* turbine housing — 1979 Federal and California.
A/R* Turbine Housing — 1979 Federal and California

See Figure 11-11 for chart of the operating conditions on 6V-TT engines with TV8102
turbocharger and 1.23 A/R* turbine housing — 9290 Injector.
Figure 11-11 6V-TT Engines with TV8102 Turbocharger and 1.23 A/R* Turbine
Housing — 9290 Injector

See Figure 11-12 for chart of the operating conditions on 6V-TTA and 6V-TTAC engines with
Figure 11-12 6V-TTA and 6V-TTAC Engines with TV7111 Turbocharger and
1.23 A/R* Turbine Housing — 1981 and 1982 Automotive

See Figure 11-13 for chart of the operating conditions on 6V-TTA engines with TV7301
turbocharger and 1.08 A/R* turbine housing — 9B90 — 1.470 timing.
Figure 11-13 6V-TTA Engines with TV7301 Turbocharger and 1.08 A/R* Turbine
Housing — 9B90 — 1.470 Timing

turbocharger and 1.08 A/R* turbine housing — 9A90 — injectors.
Housing — 9A90 — Injectors

TV8102 turbocharger and 1.23 A/R* turbine housing — 9B90 — injectors.
1.23 A/R* Turbine Housing — 9B90 — Injectors

See Figure 11-16 for chart of the operating conditions on 8V-T and 16V-T engines with T18A90
turbocharger and 1.50 A/R* turbine housing.
Figure 11-16 8V-T and 16V-T Engines with T18A90 Turbocharger and 1.50 A/R*
Turbine Housing

See Figure 11-17 for chart of the operating conditions on 8V-T (OTM) engines with T8101
turbocharger and 1.84 A/R* turbine housing — 9290 injectors.
Figure 11-17 8V-T (OTM) Engines with T8101 Turbocharger and 1.84 A/R*
Turbine Housing — 9290 Injectors


See Figure 11-19 for chart of the operating conditions on 8V-TA engines with TV8101
turbocharger and 1.39 A/R* turbine housing — 355 BHP.
Housing — 355 BHP

turbocharger and 1.60 A/R* turbine housing — 9A90 injectors.
Housing — 9A90 Injectors

turbocharger and 1.60 A/R* turbine housing — 1979 Federal and California.
Housing — 1979 Federal and California


TV8301 turbocharger and 1.39 A/R* turbine housing.
A/R* Turbine Housing

See Figure 11-24 for chart of the operating conditions on 8V-TT engines with TV8101
turbocharger and 1.84 A/R* turbine housing — 9290 injectors.
Figure 11-24 8V-TT Engines with TV8101 Turbocharger and 1.84 A/R* Turbine
Housing — 9290 Injectors

turbocharger and 1.60 A/R* turbine housing.
Housing

See Figure 11-26 for chart of the operating conditions on 8V-TTA and 8VTTAC engines with
TV8101 turbocharger and 1.60 A/R* turbine housing – 9A90 injector.
Figure 11-26 8V-TTA and 8VTTAC Engines with TV8101 Turbocharger and 1.60
A/R* Turbine Housing – 9A90 Injector

TV8117 turbocharger and 1.39 A/R* turbine housing – 1981 and 1982 automotive.
1.39 A/R* Turbine Housing – 1981 and 1982 Automotive
See Figure 11-28 for chart of the operating conditions on 8V-T and 16V—T engines with TV8101
turbocharger and 1.39 A/R* turbine housing – gen set.

Figure 11-28 8V-T and 16V—T Engines with TV8101 Turbocharger and 1.39
A/R* Turbine Housing – Generator Set

See Figure 11-29 for chart of the operating conditions on 8V-TI engines with TH08A turbocharger
and 0.096 A/R* turbine housing – marine.
Figure 11-29 8V-TI Engines with TH08A Turbocharger and 0.096 A/R* Turbine
Housing – Marine

See Figure 11-30 for chart of the operating conditions on 12V-TAB engines with TW–83
turbocharger and 1.19 A/R* turbine housing – marine.
Figure 11-30 12V-TAB Engines with TW–83 Turbocharger and 1.19 A/R*
Turbine Housing – Marine

See Figure 11-31 for chart of the operating conditions on 16V-TA engines with T18A90
turbocharger and 1.32 A/R* turbine housing – 9290 injectors.
Figure 11-31 16V-TA Engines with T18A90 Turbocharger and 1.32 A/R* Turbine
Housing – 9290 Injectors

See Figure 11-32 for chart of the operating conditions on 16V-TA engines with TW9401
turbocharger and 1.46 A/R* turbine housing and CMM injectors rated at 2300 RPM.
Figure 11-32 16V-TA Engines with TW9401 Turbocharger and 1.46 A/R* Turbine
Housing and CMM Injectors Rated at 2300 RPM

See Figure 11-33 for the exhaust restriction intake measurement illustration.
1. Turbine 6. Exhaust Into Turbine from Engine

2. Exhaust-to-Muffler (Back Pressure) 7. Air-to-Engine from Compressor
3. Turbine Back Pressure 8. Compressor Air-to-Engine Pressure
4. Air Into Compressor Pressure 9. Compressor
5. Exhaust Into Turbine Pressure 10. Air Into Compressor from Air Cleaner
Figure 11-33 Point to Measure Intake and Exhaust Restriction

11.6 ENGINE RUN-IN PROCEDURES
Following a complete overhaul or any major repair job involving the installation of piston rings,
pistons, cylinder liners, or bearings, the engine should be "Run-In" on a dynamometer prior
to release for service.
The dynamometer is a device for applying specific loads to an engine. It permits the serviceman
to physically and visually inspect the engine while it is operating. It detects improper tune-up,
misfiring injectors, low compression, and other malfunctions.
The operating temperature within the engine affects the operating clearances between the various
moving engine parts and determines how the parts will wear. Normal coolant temperature should
be maintained throughout the Run-In. Refer to section 11.5.
The rate of water circulation through the engine on a dynamometer should be sufficient to avoid
having the engine outlet water temperature more than 6°C (10°F) or higher than the water
inlet temperature. Though a 6°C (10°F) rise across an engine is recommended, an 8°C (15°F)
temperature rise maximum can be permitted.
Thermostats are used in the engine to control the coolant flow. Ensure they are in place and
fully operative, or the engine will overheat during the Run-In. If the dynamometer has a water
standpipe with a temperature control regulator, such as a Taylor valve or equivalent, the engine
should be tested without thermostats.
NOTICE:
Because of the wet cylinder liners in the V-92 engine, the engine
Run-In should be performed on a closed (heat exchanger type)
cooling system, where the coolant can be treated with a rust
inhibitor. Refer to section 5.3. A good rust inhibitor used in
the coolant system during engine Run-In will prevent the outside

NOTICE:
diameter of the cylinder liners from rusting after the engine has
been removed from the dynamometer test stand.
The Run-In Schedules are listed in Table 11-4 and listed in Table 11-5. The horsepower shown
is at SAE conditions: dry air density 0.0705 lb/cu. ft. (1.129 Kg/cu. m), air temperature of
29.4°C (85°F) and 5000 ft. elevation.
Engine Engine Engine Engine

Engine Engine
Brake Brake Brake Brake
Speed Brake Brake
Time Min. Injectors Horse- Horse- Horse- Horse-
RPM Horse- Horse-
power power power power
power 6V power 8V
6VT 8VT 16V 16VT
10 1200 All 54 54 72 72 144 144
30 1800 All 195 225 260 300 520 600
30* 2100 70 216 - 288 - 576 -
30* 2100 75 230 - 306 - 612 -
30* 2100 80 243 - 324 - 648 -
30* 2100 85 257 - 342 - 684 -
30* 2100 80 - 252 - 338 - 675
30* 2100 85 - 270 - 360 - 720
30* 2100 90 - 290 - 387 - 774
* Use speed-injector combination applicable to engine on test
Table 11-4 Basic Engine Run-In Schedule
+ Engine + Engine + Engine + Engine

+ Engine + Engine
Speed Brake Brake
RPM Horse- Horse-
power 6V power 8V
6VT 8VT 16V 16VT
30* 2100 70 240 - 320 - 640 -
30* 2100 75 255 - 340 - 680 -
30* 2100 80 270 280 360 375 720 750
30* 2100 85 285 300 380 400 760 800
30* 2100 90 - 322 - 430 - 860
+ Within 5% of brake horsepower rating shown at governor speed.
Table 11-5 Final Engine Run-In Schedule
11.6.1 The Basic Engine
The great variety of applications makes any attempt to establish performance standards for
each individual engine impractical. For this reason, each model has a basic engine rating for
comparison purposes.

A basic engine includes only those items actually required to run the engine. Adding engine
driven accessories will result in a brake horsepower figure less than the values shown in the
"Basic Engine Run-In Schedule." The blower, fuel pump, water pump, and governor are included
on the basic engine. The fan and battery-charging alternator typify accessories not considered
on the basic engine.
Situations where other than basic engine equipment is used during the test should be recorded on
the engine test report. The effects of this additional equipment on engine performance should then
be considered when evaluating test results.
11.6.2 Dynamometer
The dynamometer absorbs and measures the engine output. Its basic components are a frame,
engine mounts, the absorption unit, a heat exchanger, and a torque loading and measuring device.
The engine is connected through a universal coupling to the absorption unit. Decreasing or
increasing the resistance in the unit varies the engine load from zero to maximum. For example,
the fluid volume within the working system governs the amount of power absorbed in a water
brake type dynamometer. The fluid offers resistance to a rotating motion. Controlling the water
volume in the absorption unit allows the load to be increased or decreased, as required.
NOTE:
The power absorbed is generally measured in torque (lb·ft) on a suitable scale. Use the
following formula to incorporate the value for a given engine speed to show the brake
horsepower developed in the engine:
BHP = (T x RPM) / 5250 Where: BHP = Brake Horsepower T = Torque in ib·ft RPM =
Revolution Per Minute
Some dynamometers indicate direct brake horsepower readings. The Formula is not required
when using these units.
During the actual operation, all data taken should be recorded immediately on an engine test report.
11.6.3 Instrumentation
Certain instrumentation is necessary to obtain required data to complete the engine test report.
See Figure 11-34. The following list contains both the minimum amount of instruments and
the proper fitting locations on the engine so that the readings represent a true engine condition
evaluation:

Figure 11-34 Engine Test Report
□ Oil pressure gage installed in one of the engine main oil galleries.
□ Oil temperature gage installed in the oil pan, or thermometer installed in the oil pan
dipstick hole.
□ Adaptor for connecting a pressure gage or mercury manometer to the engine air box.
□ Water temperature gage installed in the thermostat housing or water outlet manifold.

□ Adaptor for connecting a pressure gage or water manometer to the crankcase.

□ Adaptor for connecting a pressure gage or mercury manometer to the exhaust manifold
at the flange.
□ Adaptor for connecting a vacuum gage or water manometer to the blower inlet.
□ Adaptor for connecting a fuel pressure gage to the fuel inlet passage.
□ Adaptor for connecting a pressure gage or mercury manometer to the turbocharger.
In some cases, gages reading in pounds per square inch are used for determining pressures
while standard characteristics are given in inches of mercury or inches of water. The scale on
this gage must have a low range and be finely divided for accuracy. The following conversion
factors may be helpful:
Inches of water = psi x 27.7 in.
Inches of mercury = psi x 2.04 in.
Inches of water = kPa x 4.02 in.
Inches of mercury = kPa x 0.30 in.
NOTICE:
Before starting the Run-In or starting the engine for any reason
following an overhaul, observe the instructions on preparation
for a first time start. Refer to section 11.1. If these instructions
are ignored, serious engine damage may result.
NOTE:
The operator must initial each check and sign this report.
11.6.4 Block Oil Filter Bypass Before Initial Start-Up and Dynamometer
Test of Rebuilt Engines
Cold engine start-up causes the lubricating oil filter bypass valve to open until the oil temperature
increases. When an engine is rebuilt and dynamometer tested, this bypass condition may circulate
abrasive debris introduced into the engine during rebuild.
To prevent unnecessary debris circulation through the lube oil system, DDC recommends
plugging the filter bypass before start-up and during basic engine run-in. This allows all the lube
oil to flow through the filter(s), trapping contaminants. Plug the bypass as follows:
1. Drill and tap a 1/4 in.-20 hole in a filter bypass valve plug.
NOTICE:
To avoid damaging the phenolic bypass valve, the bolt should be
finger-tightened only and secured in place with the locknut. On
filter adaptors with more than one bypass valve, install modified
valve plugs in all valve openings before starting or dynamometer
testing the engine.
2. Install a bolt long enough to contact the valve and keep it from opening.

3. Install a nut to lock the bolt in position. See Figure 11-35.
1. Valve 4. Plug
2. Spring 5. Nut
3. Gasket 6. Bolt
Figure 11-35 Bypass Valve with Modified Valve Plug Installed
4. When the dynamometer test is completed, replace the modified plug with a standard plug,
and change the filter(s).
NOTICE:
Prior to testing, DDC recommends bringing lube oil temperature
up to at least 15.6°C (60°F) before starting the engine. If the
lube oil is too cold when the engine is started, the resistance to
the heavier oil flow may cause filter gasket leakage or bearing
surface damage from inadequate oil film.
11.6.5 Pre-Start the Engine
Prestart the engine as follows:

1. Fill the lubrication system. Refer to section 13.5.1and refer to section 11.1.2.
2. Prime the fuel system. Refer to section 11.1.5.
3. Make a preliminary valve clearance adjustment before the engine is started.
Refer to section 12.2 valve clearance adjustment.

4. Make a preliminary injector timing check before starting the engine. Refer to section 12.3.
5. Make a preliminary governor adjustments. Refer to section 12.4.
6. Make a preliminary injector rack adjustment. Refer to section 12.4.
NOTICE:
Prior to starting a turbocharged engine, remove the oil supply
line at each turbocharger, and add clean engine oil to the oil inlet
to ensure prelubrication of the turbochargers. Reconnect the oil
lines and idle the engine for at least one minute after starting and
before increasing the speed. Failure to take this precaution may
cause turbocharger damage.
11.6.6 Basic Engine Run-In
Perform the basic engine run-in as follows:

1. After performing the preliminary steps, ensure all water valves, fuel valves, etc. are open.
2. Inspect the exhaust system, air cleaner, and air inlet piping to ensure that it is properly
connected to the engine.
NOTE:
Always start the engine with minimum dynamometer resistance.
NOTICE:
Allowing water into the dynamometer is necessary on some units
to lubricate the absorption unit seals and to protect them from
damage.
3. After the engine starts, if using a water brake type dynamometer, allow sufficient water,
by means of the control loading valves, into the dynamometer absorption unit to show a
reading of approximately 7 N·m (5 lb·ft) on the torque gage (or 10-15 HP on a horsepower
gage).
4. Set the engine throttle at idle speed.
5. Check the lubricating oil pressure, and check all connections to ensure there are no leaks.

6. The sample engine test report establishes the sequence of events for the Test and Run-In,
and the Basic Engine Run-In Schedule indicates the speed (RPM), length of time, and the
brake horsepower required for each test phase. See Figure 11-36.
Figure 11-36 Engine Test Report

7. Refer to section 11.5, which presents the engine operating characteristics. These
characteristics will be a guide for tracing faulty operation or lack of power.
NOTE:
Engine governors in most cases must be reset at the maximum full-load speed
designated for the Run-In. If a governor is encountered which cannot be adjusted to this
speed, a stock governor should be installed for the Run-In.
8. After checking the engine performance at idle speed and being certain the engine and
dynamometer are operating properly, increase the engine speed to half speed and apply
the load indicated on the Basic Engine Run-In Schedule.
NOTE:
The engine should be run at this speed and load for 10 minutes to allow sufficient time
for the coolant temperature to reach the normal operating range.
9. Record length of time, speed, brake horsepower, coolant temperature, and lubricating oil
pressure on the engine test report.
10. Run the engine at each speed and rating for the length of time indicated in the Basic
Engine Run-In Schedule.
NOTE:
During the basic run-in, engine performance will improve as new parts begin to "seat in."
11. Record all required data.
11.6.7 Basic Run-In Inspection
Perform the basic run-in inspection:

1. Check the oil at the rocker arm mechanism. Check for fuel oil or water leaks in the rocker
arm compartment.
2. Inspect for lube oil leaks.
3. Inspect for fuel oil leaks.
4. Inspect for water leaks.
5. Check and tighten all external bolts.
6. During the final portion of the Basic Run-In, the engine should be inspected for fuel oil,
lubricating oil and water leaks.
7. Upon completion of the Basic Run-In and Inspection, remove the load from the
dynamometer and reduce the engine speed gradually to idle.
8. Stop the engine.

11.6.8 Post Basic Run-In Inspection
Perform the post basic run-in inspection as follows:

This inspection provides a fine engine tune-up.
1. Tighten the cylinder head and rocker arm shaft bolts to the proper torque.
2. Complete the applicable tune-up procedure. Refer to section 12.1.
11.6.9 Final Run-In
Perform the final run-in as follows:
NOTE:
After all tests have been performed and the engine test report is completed through
section "D", the engine is ready for the final test. This portion of the test and run-in
procedure assures that the engine has been rebuilt to delivery factory rated performance
at the same maximum speed and load which will be experienced in the installation.
1. If the engine has been shut down for one hour or longer, allow it to warm-up for 10
minutes at the same speed and load used for warm-up in the Basic Run-In.
2. If piston rings, cylinder liners, or bearings have been replaced as a result of the Basic
Run-In results, the entire Basic Run-In must be repeated.
NOTE:
All readings observed during the Final Run-In should fall within the range specified in
the Operating Conditions and should be taken at full load, unless otherwise specified.
3. Take the engine water temperature at full load during the last portion of the Basic Run-In.
Readings should be within the specified range.
4. Record the engine water temperature.
5. Take the lubricating oil temperature reading while the engine is operating at full load and
after it has been operating long enough for the temperature to stabilize. Readings should
be within the specified range.
6. Record the lubricating oil temperature.
7. Take the lubricating oil pressure after engine speeds indicated in the Operating Conditions.
8. Record the lubricating oil pressure in "psi".
9. Take the fuel oil pressure at the fuel manifold inlet passage. It should fall within the
specified range.
NOTE:
Fuel pressure should be recorded at maximum engine speed during the Final Run-In.

10. Record the fuel oil pressure.

11. Check the air box pressure while the engine is operating at maximum speed and load.
Attach a suitable gage (0-15 lb/in.2 ) or manometer (15-0-15) to an air box drain or to a
hand hole plate prepared for this purpose.
NOTE:
If an air box drain is used as a source for this check, it must be clean.
12. Record the air box pressure in inches of mercury.

13. Check the crankcase pressure while the engine is operating at maximum Run-In speed.
14. Attach a manometer, calibrated to read in inches of water, to the oil level dipstick opening.
NOTE:
Normally, crankcase pressure should decrease during the Run-In, indicating that new
rings are beginning to "seat-in".
15. Record the crankcase pressure.

16. Check the air inlet restriction.
17. Connect a water manometer to a fitting in the air inlet ducting located 2 in. above the air
inlet housing.
18. If fitting insertion is difficult at this point, connect the manometer to a fitting installed in
the 1/4 in. pipe tapped hole in the engine air inlet housing on naturally aspirated engines.
19. If a hole is not provided, a stock housing should be drilled, tapped, and kept on hand
for future use.
20. Inspect the restriction at full-load engine speed.
21. Remove the air cleaner and ducting from the air inlet housing.
22. Operate the engine again at the same speed, while noting the manometer reading.
On turbocharged engines, take the reading on the inlet side of one turbocharger.
NOTE:
The difference between the two readings, with and without the air cleaner and ducting,
is the actual restriction from the air cleaner and ducting.
23. Check the normal air intake vacuum at various speeds at no-load, and compare the results
with the Engine Operating Conditions. Refer to section 11.5.
24. Record these readings on the engine test report.
25. Check the exhaust back pressure (except turbocharged engines) at the exhaust manifold
companion flange or within one inch of this location. Use a mercury manometer through a
tube adaptor installed at the tapped hole.
26. If the exhaust manifold does not provide a 1/8 in. pipe tapped hole, rework the exhaust
manifold.

27. Install a fitting for a pressure gage or manometer in this hole.
NOTE:
The fitting must not protrude into the stack.
28. On turbocharged engines, check the exhaust back pressure in the exhaust piping 6-12 in.
from the turbine outlet.
NOTE:
The tapped hole must be in a comparatively straight area for an accurate measurement.
The manometer check should produce a reading in inches that is below the Maximum
Exhaust Back Pressure for the engine. Refer to section 11.5.
29. Take turbocharger compressor outlet pressure and turbine inlet pressures at full-load
and no-load speeds.
30. Refer to the Final Engine Run-In Schedule listed in Table 11-6.
+ Engine + Engine + Engine + Engine

+ Engine + Engine
Speed Brake Brake
RPM Horse- Horse-
power 6V power 8V
6VT 8VT 16V 16VT
30* 2100 70 240 - 320 - 640 -
30* 2100 75 255 - 340 - 680 -
30* 2100 80 270 280 360 375 720 750
30* 2100 85 285 300 380 400 760 800
30* 2100 90 - 322 - 430 - 860
+ Within 5% of brake horsepower rating shown at governor speed.
Table 11-6 Final Engine Run-In Schedule
31. Determine the maximum rated brake horsepower and the full-load speed to be used
during the Final Run-In.
32. Apply the load determined to the dynamometer.
33. If a hydraulic governor is used, the droop may be adjusted as follows:
[a] The engine should be run at this speed and load for 1/2 hour.
NOTE:
While making the Final Run-In, the engine should develop, within 5%, the maximum
rated brake horsepower indicated for the speed at which it is operating. If this brake
horsepower is not developed, the cause should be determined and corrected.
[b] When the above conditions have been met, adjust the maximum no-load speed to
conform with that specified for the particular engine. This speed may be either higher

or lower than the maximum speed used during the Basic Run-In. This will ordinarily
require a governor adjustment.
34. After the prescribed time for the Final Run-In has elapsed, remove the load from the
dynamometer, and reduce the engine speed gradually to idle speed.
36. Rustproof the fuel system. Refer to section 14.1.
NOTICE:
Because of the wet cylinder liners, a rust inhibitor must be added
to the cooling system. Without a rust inhibitor, the cylinder liners
outside diameter will rust.
37. Add a rust inhibitor into the cooling system. Refer to section 5.3.
38. Change the lubricating oil filters.


12 ENGINE TUNE-UP
Section Page
12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP ................................................................................. 12-3

12.2 EXHAUST VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT .................................... 12-28
12.3 FUEL INJECTOR TIMING ........................................................................ 12-32
CHECKING AND SETTING PROCEDURE ............................................. 12-119
(VARIABLE LOW-SPEED) ....................................................................... 12-130
12.8 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR FAST IDLE CYLINDER 12-141
12.9 GOVERNOR SETTINGS FOR "TT" ENGINES ........................................ 12-145
CONTROL ADJUSTMENT (12V AND 16V) ............................................. 12-224
12.14 GOVERNORS WITH SYNCHRONIZING MOTOR .................................. 12-244
12.15 SUPPLEMENTARY GOVERNING DEVICE ADJUSTMENT ................... 12-245
12.16 POWER CONTROL DEVICE ................................................................... 12-249
12.17 THROTTLE DELAY MECHANISM ADJUSTMENT .................................. 12-252
12.18 FUEL MODULATOR ............................................................................... 12-265

12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP
There is no scheduled interval for performing an engine tune-up. As long as the engine
performance is satisfactory, no tune-up should be needed. Minor adjustments in the valve and
injector operating mechanism, governor, etc. should only be required periodically to compensate
for normal wear on parts.
To comply with emissions regulations for on-highway vehicle engines, injector timing, exhaust
valve clearance, engine idle and no-load speeds, and throttle delay or fuel modulator settings must
be checked and adjusted if necessary, at 50,000 mile intervals. Refer to section 12.18.1.
The type of governor used depends upon the engine application. Since each governor has
different characteristics, the tune-up procedure varies accordingly. The following types of
governors are used:
□ Limiting speed mechanical
□ Variable speed mechanical
□ Hydraulic
A name plate attached to the governor housing identifies the mechanical governors. The letters
D.W.-L.S. stamped on the name plate denote a double-weight limiting speed governor. A
single-weight variable speed governor name plate is stamped S.W.-V.S.
When performing a tune-up on an engine in service, check the various adjustments for a possible
change in the settings. If a cylinder head, governor, or injectors have been replaced or overhauled,
then certain tune-up adjustments are required. Accurate tune-up adjustments are essential for
maximum performance and economy.
If a supplementary governing device, such as the throttle delay mechanism, is used, disconnect it
prior to the tune-up. After the governor and injector rack adjustments are completed, reconnect
and adjust the supplementary governing device.
To tune-up an engine completely, perform all of the adjustments in the applicable tune-up
sequence.
Use new valve rocker cover gaskets after the tune-up is completed, and reinstall the valve
rocker covers.
12.1.1 Tune-Up Sequence of Mechanical Governor
Perform tune-up for mechanical governor in the following sequence:
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
1. While the engine is cold, adjust the exhaust valve clearance.

12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP
2. Time the fuel injectors.

3. Adjust the governor cap.
4. Position the injector rack control levers.
5. Adjust the maximum no-load speed.
6. Adjust the idle speed.
7. Adjust the Belleville spring for "TT" horsepower.
8. Adjust the buffer screw.
9. Adjust the throttle booster spring (variable speed governor only).
10. Adjust the supplementary governing device, if used.
12.1.2 Tune-Up Sequence of Hydraulic Governor
Perform the following sequence for a hydraulic governor tune-up:
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
1. Adjust the exhaust valve clearance.

2. Time the fuel injectors.
3. Position the injector rack control levers.
4. Adjust the governor linkage.
5. Adjust the load limit screw.
6. Compensation adjustment (PSG governors only).
7. Adjust the speed droop.
8. Adjust the maximum no-load speed.
12.1.3 Emissions Regulations (On-Highway Vehicle Engine)
Detroit Diesel Allison on-highway vehicle engines are certified to be in compliance with Federal
and California Emission Regulations established for each model year.
Engine certification is dependent on the following five physical characteristics:
1. Fuel injector type.
2. Maximum full-load engine speed.

3. Camshaft timing.
4. Fuel injector timing.
5. Throttle delay (orifice size).When serviced, all on-highway vehicle engines should comply
with the specifications for the specific model year in which the engine was built.
Trucks in a fleet containing various model year engines can be tuned to the latest model
year, provided the engines have been updated to meet the specifications for that particular
year.
12.1.4 Engine Certification Charts
This section contains charts summarizing the pertinent data concerning the specific engine
configurations required for each model year.
See Figure 12-1 for chart of the 1974 certified automotive engines.
Figure 12-1 1974 Certified Automotive Engines

12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP


12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP
See Figure 12-4 for chart of the 1977 certified automotive engines (Federal).
Figure 12-4 1977 Certified Automotive Engines (Federal)

See Figure 12-5 for chart of the 1977 certified automotive engines (California).
Figure 12-5 1977 Certified Automotive Engines (California)

12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP
See Figure 12-6 for chart of the 1978 certified automotive engines (Federal).
Figure 12-6 1978 Certified Automotive Engines (Federal)

See Figure 12-7 for chart of the 1978 certified automotive engines (California).
Figure 12-7 1978 Certified Automotive Engines (California)

12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP

See Figure 12-9 for chart of the 1980 certified automotive engines Federal and California.
Figure 12-9 1980 Certified Automotive Engines Federal and California

12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP
See Figure 12-10 for chart of the 1980 certified automotive engines California coach.
Figure 12-10 1980 Certified Automotive Engines California Coach


12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP


12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP


12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP


12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP
See Figure 12-18 for chart of the 1987 certified automotive engines (coach models).
Figure 12-18 1987 Certified Automotive Engines (Coach Models)

See Figure 12-19 for chart of the 1987 certified automotive engines (truck models).
Figure 12-19 1987 Certified Automotive Engines (Truck Models)
Listed in Table 12-1 are the 1991–1992 certified automotive engine configurations.
Engine,
Components 1991 (C) 1991 (F) (C) 1991 (F) 1991 (C) 1992 (F)
and Parameters
Engine 6V-TA 6V-TA 8V-TA 8V-TA 6V-TA
JWAC JWAC JWAC JWAC 8V-TA*
(Coach) (Truck and (Truck and JWAC
Parlor Coach) Parlor Coach)
Injector 5234960 5234960 (1) (2) 5234960 5234980 5234960
5234985 5234965 5234985 5234965
5234965
5234775†
Injector Timing 1.520 1.520 1.520 1.520 1.520
Turbocharger TV7512 TV7512 TV8513 TV7513 TV7512
TV8513
* These particular specifications are used together.
† Firetruck only
(1) Number one diesel fuel
(2) Number two diesel fuel
(C) California certification
(F) Federal certification
Number two diesel fuel is the standard if not otherwise designated.
Table 12-1 Certified Automotive Engine Configurations 1991–1992

12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP
Engine,
Components 1992 (C) 1992 (F) 1992 (F) (C) 1992 (F) 1993 (F) (C)
and Parameters
Engine 6V-TA 6V-TA 6V-TA 6V-TA* 6V-TA
8V-TA* JWAC JWAC 8V-TA† JWAC
JWAC (Transit Coach) (Transit Coach) JWAC (Parlor Coach)
Parlor Coach)
Injector 5234980 5234960 5234955§ 5234960*† 5234980
5234985 5234965*
5234775‡
Injector Timing 1.520 1.520 1.520 1.520 1.520
Turbocharger TV7512 TV7512 TV7502 TV7512* TV7512
TV8513* TV8513†
† These particular specifications are used together.
‡ Firetruck only
§ M85 and M100 methanol fuel
(C) California
(F) Federal

Listed in Table 12-3 are the 1993 certified automotive engine configurations.
Engine,
Components 1993 (F) (C) 1993 (F) 1993 (C) 1993 (F) 1993 (F)
and Parameters
Engine 6V-TA 8V-TA 8V-TA 6V-TA 6V-TA
JWAC JWAC JWAC JWAC JWAC
(Truck and Parlor (Transit Coach)
Coach)
Injector 5234965* 5234960 5234980 5234960 (1) (2) 5234955
5234985† 5234965 5234985‡ 5234965 (2)
Injector Timing
1.520 1.520 1.520 1.520 1.520
Height (in.)
Turbocharger TV7512 TV8513 TV8513 TV7512 TV7512 §
TV7502
TV7503 #
* Firetruck only
† California certification for truck and parlor coach
‡ Truck and parlor coach
§ M85 and M100 methanol fuel (50 state certification)
M100 methanol fuel (50 state certification)
# Ethanol fuel (E95) (50 state certification)
(1) Number one diesel fuel
(2) Number two diesel fuel
Table 12-3 Certified Automotive Engine Configurations 1993

12.1 ENGINE TUNE-UP
Engine,
Components and 1993 (MSHA) † 1993 (MSHA) † 1994 (F) 1994 (F)
Parameters
Engine 6V-TA 8V-TA 6V-TA 8V-TA
JWAC JWAC JWAC JWAC
(Industrial) (Industrial) Truck, Parlor Coach, Truck, Parlor Coach,
and Motor Home and Motor Home
Injector 5234775 5234965 5234960 ‡ 5234960 ‡
5234965 * 5234965 5234965 ‡
5234775 ‡
Injector Timing
1.520 1.520 1.520 1.520
H%eight (in.)
Turbocharger TV7512 TV8513 TV7512 TV8513
TV7503 *
† Underground mine certification
‡ Firetruck also
Number two diesel fuel is the standard if not otherwise designated
Listed in Table 12-5 are the 1994 certified automotive engine configurations.
Engine,
Components and 1994 (F) 1994 (F) (C) 1994 (MSHA) § 1994 (MSHA) §
Parameters
Engine 6V-TA 6V-TA 6V-TA 8V-TA
JWAC JWAC JWAC JWAC
(Transit Coach) (Transit Coach) (Industrial) (Industrial)
Injector 5234960 (1) (2) * 234955 5234960 5234965
5234965 (1) (2) † 5234965
Injector Timing
1.520 1.520 1.520 1.520
Height (in.)
Turbocharger TV7512 (A/R 0.96) * TV7512 ‡ TV7512 TV8513
TV7512 (A/R 1.08) † TV7502
TV7503 #
† These particular specifications are used together.
‡ M85 and M100 methanol fuel
§ Underground mining certification
M100 methanol fuel only
# E95 enthanol fuel
Table 12-5 Certified Automotive Engine Configurations 1994

Engine,
Components 1995 (F) 1995 (F) 1995 (F) 1995 1995 1996
and Parameters
Engine 6V-TA 8V-TA 6V-TA 6V-TA 8V-TA 8V-TA
JWAC JWAC JWAC MSHA MSHA JWAC
Truck Truck Motor Coach Motor Coach
Injector 5234960 5234965 5234960 5234960 5234965 5234965
5234965 5234965 5234965
5234975
Injector Timing
1.520 1.520 1.520 1.520 1.520 1.520
Height (in.)
Turbocharger TV7512 TV8513 TV7512 TV7512 TV7513 TV8513

12.2 EXHAUST VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
The correct exhaust valve clearance at normal engine operating temperature is important for
smooth, efficient operation of the engine.
Insufficient valve clearance can result in compression loss, misfiring cylinders, and burned valve
seats and valve seat inserts. Excessive valve clearance will result in noisy operation, increased
valve face wear, and valve lock damage.
Whenever the cylinder head is overhauled, the exhaust valves are reconditioned or replaced, or
the valve operating mechanism is replaced or disturbed in any way, adjust the valve clearance to
the cold setting to allow normal engine part expansion during the engine warm-up period. This
will ensure a valve setting that is close enough to the specified clearance to prevent damage to the
valves when the engine is started.
The exhaust valve bridges must be adjusted and the adjustment screws locked securely at the time
the cylinder head is installed on the engine. Refer to section 1.5.8 for chart of the necessary
adjustment procedure.
The exhaust valve bridge balance should be checked when a general valve adjustment is
performed. After the bridges are balanced, adjust the valve clearance at the push rod only.
NOTE:
Do not disturb the exhaust valve bridge adjusting screw.
All exhaust valves may be adjusted in firing order sequence during one full crankshaft revolution.
Refer to the General Specifications shown at the beginning of this manual.
12.2.1 Adjustment of Valve Clearance (Cold Engine)
Adjust the valve clearance on a cold engine as follows:

1. Clean the loose dirt from the engine exterior.
2. Remove the valve rocker covers. Discard the gaskets.
3. Cover any drain cavities in the cylinder head to prevent foreign material from entering.
4. Place the governor speed control lever in the idle speed position. If a stop lever is
provided, secure it in the stop position.

PERSONAL INJURY
system.
NOTICE:
The hex head of the crankshaft bolt may be used to bar, or turn,
the crankshaft. To avoid engine damage, always bar the engine
in the direction of normal rotation to avoid loosening the bolt.
5. Rotate the crankshaft with engine barring tool J 22582 or with the starting motor until the
injector follower is fully depressed on the particular cylinder to be adjusted.
6. Loosen the exhaust valve rocker arm push rod locknut.
7. Place a 0.016 in. feeler gage between the valve bridge and the valve rocker arm pallet.
See Figure 12-20.
NOTE:
For marine engines, models 8062–7K10 and 8062–7K11, place a 0.019 in. feeler gage
between the valve bridge and the valve rocker arm pallet.
1. Push Rod 3. Feeler Gage

2. Locknut
Figure 12-20 Adjusting Valve Clearance

8. Adjust the push rod to obtain a smooth "pull" on the feeler gage.
9. Remove the feeler gage.
10. Hold the push rod with a 5/16 in. wrench, and tighten the locknut with a 1/2 in. wrench.
11. Check the clearance.
NOTE:
If the adjustment is correct for non-marine engines, a 0.015 in. feeler gage will pass
freely between the valve bridge and the rocker arm pallet, but a 0.017 in. feeler gage will
not pass through. If the adjustment is correct for marine engines, models 8062–7K10
and 8062–7K11, the 0.018 in. feeler gage will pass freely between the valve bridge and
the rocker arm pallet, but a 0.020 in. feeler gage will not pass through. Adjust the push
rod further, if necessary.
12. Adjust and check the remaining exhaust valves.

13. With the engine at 38°C (100°F) or more, check the valve clearance.
NOTE:
If, on non-marine engines, a 0.014 in. feeler gage ± 0.004 in. will pass between the valve
bridge and the valve rocker arm pallet, the valve clearance is satisfactory. If, on marine
engines, models 8062–7K10 and 8062–7K11, a 0.017 in. feeler gage ± 0.004 in. will
pass between the valve bridge and the valve rocker arm pallet, the valve clearance is
satisfactory. If necessary, adjust the push rod.
12.2.2 Adjustment of Valve Clearance (Hot Engine)
It is not necessary to make a final hot engine exhaust valve clearance adjustment after a cold
engine adjustment has been performed. However, if a hot engine adjustment is desired, use the
following procedure:
NOTICE:
Maintaining normal engine operating temperature is particularly
important when making the hot engine exhaust valve clearance
adjustment. If the engine is allowed to cool off before setting any
valves, the clearance, when running at full load, may become
insufficient.
NOTE:
Since these adjustments are normally made while the engine is stopped, run the engine
between adjustments to maintain normal operating temperature.
1. With a non-marine engine at normal operating temperature, set the exhaust valve clearance
with a 0.014 in. feeler gage. With a marine engine, models 8062–7K10 and 8062–7K11,

at normal operating temperature, set the exhaust valve clearance with a 0.017 in. feeler
gage. Refer to section 11.5 for normal coolant operating temperatures.
NOTE:
If the valve clearance is correct on a non-marine engine, a 0.013 in. feeler gage will pass
freely between the valve bridge and the valve rocker arm pallet, but the 0.015 in. feeler
gage will not pass through. If the valve clearance is correct on a marine engine, models
8062–7K10 and 8062–7K11, a 0.016 in. gage will pass freely between the valve bridge
and the valve rocker arm pallet, but the 0.018 in. feeler gage will not pass through.
Adjust the push rod further, if necessary.
2. After the exhaust valve clearance has been adjusted, check the fuel injector timing.
3. With the engine at 38°C (100°F) or less, check the valve clearance.
NOTE:
If a 0.016 in. feeler gage ± 0.004 in. will pass between the valve bridge and the valve
rocker arm pallet on non-marine engines, the valve clearance is satisfactory. If a 0.019
in. feeler gage ± 0.004 in. will pass between the valve bridge and the valve rocker arm
pallet on a marine engine, models 8062–7K10 and 8062–7K11, the valve clearance is
satisfactory. If necessary, adjust the push rod.

12.3 FUEL INJECTOR TIMING
To time an injector properly, the injector follower must be adjusted to a definite height in relation
to the injector body.
All injectors can be timed in firing order sequence during one full crankshaft revolution. Refer to
General Specifications at the beginning of this manual.
12.3.1 Timing of Fuel Injector
After the exhaust valve clearance has been adjusted, time the fuel injectors as follows:
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
1. Place the governor speed control lever in the idle speed position. If a stop lever is
provided, secure it in the stop position.
NOTICE:
PERSONAL INJURY
system.
2. Rotate the crankshaft, with the starting motor or with engine barring tool J 22582, until the
exhaust valves are fully depressed on the particular cylinder to be timed.
NOTICE:
Failure to set injector timing at the correct height can result in
push rod bending and/or other serious damage to the overhead
when the engine is cranked.
3. Place the small end of the injector timing gage in the hole provided in the top of the
injector body with the flat of the gage toward the injector follower. See Figure 12-21.
Timing gages are listed in Table 12-7. Refer to section 12.3.1.

1. Timing Gage 3. Locknut

2. Push Rod
Figure 12-21 Timing Fuel Injector

Injector § Timing Dimension Timing Gage Camshaft Timing

9270 * 37.08 mm (1.460 in.) J 1853 Standard
9275 * 37.08 mm (1.460 in.) J 1853 Standard
9280 * 37.08 mm (1.460 in.) J 1853 Standard
9285 * 37.08 mm (1.460 in.) J 1853 Standard
9290 * 37.08 mm (1.460 in.) J 1853 Standard
9295 ‡ 37.69 mm (1.484 in.) J 1242 Standard
9200 † 37.69 mm (1.484 in.) J 1242 Standard
9215 37.69 mm (1.484 in.) J 1242 Standard
M15 || 37.08 mm (1.460 in.) J 1853 Standard
M15 # 37.34 mm (1.470 in.) J 24236 Standard
* Turbocharged engines use 37.69 mm (1.484 in.) timing (gage J 1242).
† 16V92T (1800 RPM generator set – 860 bhp).
‡ Generator set only.
§ For automotive applications, refer to section 12.1.
|| Marine pleasurecraft and all purpose industrial (non–FP). Exceptions: Models 8063–7400, 8083–7400 use 37.34 mm (1.470 in.).
# All purpose industrial (FP).
Table 12-7 Injector Timing
4. Loosen the injector rocker arm push rod locknut.

5. Turn the push rod, and adjust the injector rocker arm until the gage extension just passes
over the top of the injector follower.
6. Hold the push rod, and tighten the locknut.
7. Check the adjustment and, if necessary, readjust the push rod.
8. Time the remaining injectors.
9. If no further engine tune-up is required, reinstall the valve rocker covers using new gaskets.


CONTROL ADJUSTMENT (6V AND 8V ENGINES)
Two different limiting speed mechanical governors are used on the Series 92 engine. The high
speed spring retainer and spring housing assembly differ between each type. Depending on the
application, some engines use the standard limiting speed governor and other engines use the dual
range limiting speed governor. The only variation in the tune-up procedure between each type of
governor is in setting the maximum no-load speed.
A properly adjusted governor gap will accomplish the following:
□ Provide sufficient weight travel in the idle range to prevent stalling during deceleration. A
tight gap reduces weight travel in the idle range.
□ Provide enough weight travel in the high speed control range to prevent engine overspeed
with light loads at full throttle. A loose gap reduces weight travel in the high speed range.
□ Prevent the low speed weight generated force (double weight governors) from compressing
the high speed spring. If the gap is too tight, the force of the heavy idle weights operating
on the high speed spring will cause the high speed spring to compress at a low speed,
resulting in low power.
12.4.1 Adjustment of Governor Gap (Static Method)
DDC recommends using the "static" or weight pry method to set the gap on double weight
limiting speed governors. The "engine-on" method may be used, but the "static" method is
accurate, efficient, and cost effective.
Stop the engine, and use governor weight wedge tool J 35516 to perform the following procedure:
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
NOTE:
Governor gap setting verification should not be considered necessary until "Vehicle
Low Power/Performance at Low Mileage" has been used to troubleshoot an engine
performance concern.
12.4.2 Check Gap
Check the gap as follows:

12.4 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR INJECTOR RACK CONTROL ADJUSTMENT (6V AND
8V ENGINES)
1. In a vehicle, set the engine idle speed at 600 RPM, and stop the engine.
NOTE:
This static governor gap setting is established at the factory based upon a 600 RPM
engine idle. When verifying a factory tune-up the governor idle speed should be set
at 600 RPM.

PERSONAL INJURY
system.
2. Clean the remove the governor cover. Discard the gasket.
NOTICE:
clockwise to avoid loosening the bolt.
NOTICE:
On left hand rotating marine engines equipped with a Jabsco raw
water pump, detach the cover, and remove the impeller before
barring the engine to avoid rubber impeller damage. Mark the
front of the impeller for easy reinstallation.
PERSONAL INJURY
system.
3. With the engine stopped, manually bar the engine over until the governor weights are
horizontal.
NOTICE:
Do not use a screwdriver to pry the weights. Damage to the
weights, riser, or housing could result.
NOTE:
On "TT" governors, the Belleville spring retainer nut must be backed out until there is
approximately 1.52 mm (0.060 in.) clearance between the washers and the retainer nut
before checking or resetting the governor gap.
4. Insert governor weight wedge J 35516 between the low-speed weight and the governor
riser. See Figure 12-22, and see Figure 12-23.

8V ENGINES)
1. Tool Handle 2. Tool Wedge
Figure 12-22 Tool J 35516 Inserted Between Low Speed Weight and Riser
1. Low Speed Weight 2. Riser
Figure 12-23 Wedge of Tool J 35516 Between Riser and Low Speed Weight

NOTE:
The tapered face of the wedge should be against the riser and between the flanges
on the riser ends.
5. Push the wedge to the bottom, forcing the weights against the maximum travel stop.
NOTICE:
Do not use a screwdriver to pry the weights. This could damage
the weights, riser, and housing.
6. While holding the wedge in the bottom position, use a feeler gage to measure the gap
between the low speed spring cap and the high speed spring plunger. See Figure 12-24.
NOTE:
The gap should measure 0.0762 mm - 0.4826 mm (0.003 in. - 0.019 in.). Reset the gap
to 0.20 mm (0.008 in.) if the measured gap is out of limits.

8V ENGINES)
1. Spring Cap 9. Retainer Nut

6. Belleville Spring Washer 14. High Speed Spring
7. Washer 15. Low Speed Spring Seat
8. Set Screw 16. Low Speed Spring
Figure 12-24 High and Low-Speed Spring and Plunger (TTA Engines)
7. Remove the wedge and replace the governor cover, using a new gasket.

8. Reset Belleville springs. See Figure 12-25. Refer to section 12.9.
1. Differential Lever Pin 3. Low Speed Spring Cap

2. High Speed Plunger 4. Gap Adjusting Screw
Figure 12-25 Adjusting Governor Gap
12.4.3 Set Gap (Governor On Engine)
Prior to adjustment, perform the following:
PERSONAL INJURY
system.
1. Before proceeding with the governor and injector rack adjustments, disconnect any
supplementary governing device.
2. Back out the external starting aid screw.

8V ENGINES)
3. On "TT" engines, back out the Belleville spring retainer nut until approximately 1.52 mm
(0.060 in.) clearance between the washers and the retainer nut exists. See Figure 12-26.
1. Locknut 5. High Speed Spring Retainer

2. Idle Screw 6. Belleville Springs
3. Plunger 7. Belleville Spring Retainer Nut
4. Washers
Figure 12-26 Belleville Washer Location
NOTE:
The following procedures permit gap adjustment while the governor is on or removed
from an engine.
Set the governor gap as follows:

1. Set the engine idle speed at 600 RPM, and stop the engine.
2. Clean and remove the governor cover. Discard the gasket.

PERSONAL INJURY
system.
NOTICE:
PERSONAL INJURY
system.
3. With the engine stopped, manually bar the engine over until the governor weights are
horizontal.
NOTICE:
To avoid damaging the rubber impeller while barring a left-hand
rotating marine engine equipped with a Jabsco raw water pump,
detach the cover, and remove the impeller before barring the
engine. Mark the front of the impeller for easy reinstallation.
NOTICE:
Do not use a screwdriver to pry the weights, since damage to the
4. Insert governor weight wedge Tool J 35516 between the low-speed weight and the
governor riser. See Figure 12-27 and see Figure 12-28.

8V ENGINES)

NOTE:
The tapered wedge face should be against the riser and between the flanges on the
riser ends.
5. Push the wedge as far to the bottom as it will go, forcing the weights against the maximum
travel stop.
6. With the wedge in the bottom position, use a feeler gage to set the gap between the low
speed spring cap and the high speed spring plunger at 0.20 mm (0.008 in.).
7. Tighten the governor gap adjusting screw locknut. See Figure 12-29 and see Figure 12-30.

8V ENGINES)



8. Push down on the governor weight wedge tool to ensure it did not move while the gap
was being set.
9. Check the gap while holding the tool in this position. If the gap is incorrect, reset to
0.20 mm (0.008 in.).
10. Remove the wedge.
NOTE:
The buffer, idle speed, no-load speed and starting aid screws, the injector racks, and
supplemental governor devices require adjustment whenever the governor gap is
changed.
11. Reset the Belleville springs. Refer to section 12.9.
12.4.4 Set Gap (On Bench)
Set the gap with the governor on a bench as follows:

8V ENGINES)
NOTICE:
When setting the governor gap on a bench, mount the governor
on a blower to support and protect the governor weight carrier
shaft. This prevents damage to the governor weight carrier shaft.
1. Position the idle screw.
NOTE:
On all non- "TT" governors with a normal 1.00 in. long idle adjustment screw, the
screw should be set so that it extends 8.26 mm (0.325 in.). On all "TT" governors
with a normal 1.00 in. long idle adjustment screw, the screw should be set to extend
10.16 mm (0.400 in.).

2. Measure this dimension from the idle speed adjusting screw locknut face to the end of the
idle speed adjusting screw with a tolerance of ± 0.38 mm (± 0.015 in.). See Figure 12-31.


8V ENGINES)
3. For governors with a variable high-speed option, which use a 1.75 in. long idle adjustment
screw, seat the screw to extend 27.31 mm (1.075 in.) on all non- "TT" governors or 29.21
mm (1.150 in.) on all "TT" governors.
NOTE:
These idle screw projections result in a nominal 600 RPM idle speed.
4. Rotate the governor weights until they are horizontal.
NOTICE:
NOTE:
The tapered face of the wedge should be against the riser and between the flanges
on the riser ends.
NOTE:
To prevent the weights from rotating when the governor weight wedge tool is inserted,
wedge a clean, soft rag between the blower housing and the blower rotors.
Figure 12-32 Tool J 35516 Inserted Between Low Speed Weight Riser

6. Push the wedge to the bottom, forcing the weights against the maximum travel stop.
NOTICE:
7. Ensure governor high-speed spring plunger is seated. Turn in the high-speed retainer
as required to seat the plunger.
8. With the wedge in the bottom position, use a feeler gage between the low speed spring cap
and the high speed spring plunger to set the gap at 0.20 mm (0.008 in.).
9. Tighten the governor gap adjusting screw locknut.
was set.
11. Check the gap while holding the tool in this position. If the gap is incorrect, reset to
0.20 mm (0.008 in.).
12. Remove the wedge, and install the cover using a new gasket.
12.4.5 Governor Gap Adjustment (Double-Weight Governor)
With the engine stopped and at normal operating temperature, adjust the governor gap as follows:

8V ENGINES)
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from rotating belts and fans, do not remove
and discard safety guards.
1. Remove the high-speed spring retainer cover.

2. Back out the buffer screw until it extends 15.88 mm (0.625 in.) from the locknut.
See Figure 12-34.
1. Screw 3. Locknut
Figure 12-34 Adjusting Buffer Screw
3. Start the engine, and loosen the idle speed adjusting screw locknut.

4. Adjust the idle screw to obtain the desired engine idle speed. See Figure 12-35.
1. Speed Control Lever 3. Idle Speed Adjusting Screw

2. Idle Speed Adjusting Screw Locknut
Figure 12-35 Adjusting Engine Idle Speed
5. Hold the screw, and tighten the locknut to keep the adjustment.
6. For "TT" engines, set the idle speed to 500 RPM.
NOTE:
EPA certified minimum idle speeds are 500 RPM for trucks and highway coaches and
400 RPM for city coaches.
7. Stop the engine.

8. Clean and remove the governor cover and lever assembly and the valve rocker covers.
Discard the gaskets.
9. Use the differential lever to manually start and run the engine between 1100 and
1300 RPM.
10. Manually operate the differential lever to start and run the engine between 1100 and
1300 RPM.
NOTE:
Do not overspeed the engine.

8V ENGINES)
11. Check the gap between the low-speed spring cap and the high-speed spring plunger with
a feeler gage.
NOTE:
The gap should be 0.0508 mm - 0.1016 mm (0.002 in. - 0.004 in.). If the gap setting is
incorrect, reset the gap adjusting screw.
12. Check the gap with the engine operating between 1100 and 1300 RPM. Readjust, if
necessary.
14. Using a new gasket, install the governor cover and lever assembly. Tighten the screws.
12.4.6 Governor Gap Adjustment (Single-Weight Governor)
Adjust the single-weight governor gap as follows:
PERSONAL INJURY
1. Remove the high-speed spring retainer cover.

See Figure 12-36.
1. Screw 3. Locknut

8V ENGINES)
4. Adjust the idle screw to obtain the desired engine idle speed. See Figure 12-37.

5. Hold the screw, and tighten the locknut to keep the adjustment.
NOTE:
EPA certified minimum idle speeds are 500 RPM for trucks and highway coaches and
400 RPM for city coaches.
NOTE:
If, when going from top no-load speed to idle speed, the engine governor will not recover
and the engine stalls, increase the idle speed to the minimum speed of 600 RPM,
Engine Injector Droop Idle Speed

6 and 8V Turbo 90 mm 175 RPM 600 RPM minimum
(Regardless of Prefix) (was 125 RPM) (was 500 RPM minimum)
All Injector Sizes
Table 12-8 Top No-Load Speed to Idle Speed
6. Stop the engine.

7. Clean and remove the governor cover and lever assembly and the valve rocker cover.

8. Remove the fuel rod from the differential lever and the injector control tube lever.
9. Check the gap between the low-speed spring cap and the high-speed spring plunger with
gage J 23478 (5.08 mm 0.200 in.). See Figure 12-38.
NOTE:
Ensure external starting aid screw, if used, is backed out far enough to make it ineffective
when making this adjustment.
1. Governor Housing Assembly 3. Low Speed Spring Cap

2. High Speed Spring Plunger
Figure 12-38 Adjusting Governor Gap (Single Weight Governor) with Feeler
Gage J 23478
10. If required, loosen the locknut and turn the gap adjusting screw until it slightly drags.
11. Hold the adjusting screw, and tighten the locknut.
12. Recheck the gap and readjust, if necessary.

8V ENGINES)
13. Install the fuel rod between the governor and injector control tube lever.
14. Use a new gasket, and install the governor cover and lever assembly.
12.4.7 Position Injector Rack Control Lever (Non "TT" Engines)
The injector rack control lever must be positioned in relation to the governor. Their positions
determine the fuel amount injected into each cylinder and ensures equal load distribution.
NOTICE:
To ensure proper injector control rack adjustment, the injector
racks must be adjusted with the yield link and governor cover
that will be used with the governor.
Properly positioned injector rack control levers with the engine at full load will result in the
following:
1. Speed control lever at the maximum speed position.
2. Governor low-speed gap closed.
3. High-speed spring plunger on the seat in the governor control housing.
4. Injector fuel control racks in the full-fuel position.
NOTE:
The letters "R" and "L" indicate the injector location in the right or left cylinder bank
viewed from the rear of the engine. The cylinders are numbered starting at the front of
the engine on each cylinder bank.
NOTE:
Adjusting the No. 1L injector rack control lever first establishes a guide for adjusting
the remaining injector rack control levers.
5. Disconnect any linkage attached to the governor speed control lever.

6. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw until 12.7 mm (0.5 in.) of the threads (12-14 threads)
project from the locknut when the nut is against the high-speed plunger.
NOTE:
This adjustment lowers the tension of the low-speed spring so it can be easily
compressed. The low speed gap can close without bending the fuel rods or causing the
yield mechanism springs to yield or stretch. A false fuel rack setting may result if the idle
speed adjusting screw is not backed out.
Injector racks must be adjusted so the effort to move the throttle from the idle speed
position to the maximum speed position is uniform. A sudden increase in effort usually
near the full-fuel position can result from:
[a] Injector racks adjusted too tight causing the yield link to separate.

[b] Binding of the fuel rods on the cylinder head.

[c] Failure to back out the idle screw.
7. If not previously performed, back out the buffer screw approximately 15.88 mm
(0.625 in.).
8. Remove the clevis pin from the fuel rod and the right cylinder bank injector control tube
lever.
9. Loosen all inner and outer injector rack control lever adjusting screws and locknuts.
NOTE:
Ensure all of the injector rack control levers are free on the injector control tubes.
10. Move the speed control lever to the maximum speed position, and hold it lightly with
your finger.
12.4.8 Adjustment of One Screw and Locknut Lever Assembly (Non

"TT" Engines)
Adjust the one screw and locknut lever assembly on non- "TT" engines as follows:

8V ENGINES)
1. Tighten the No. 1L injector rack control lever screw until the injector rack clevis rolls.
See Figure 12-39.
1. Lever 4. Speed Control Lever Held at Maximum Speed

Position
2. Screw 5. Locknut
3. Fuel Rod
Figure 12-39 Injector Control Lever One Screw and Locknut Assembly
(Position No. 1)

NOTICE:
To prevent possible damage to the injector control tube, do not
overtighten the injector rack control lever adjusting screws during
installation or adjustment. The recommended torque is 3-4 N·m
(24-36 lb·in).
2. Tighten the screw an additional 1/8 turn, and lock securely with the adjusting screw
locknut. This will place the No. 1L injector rack in the full-fuel position.
NOTE:
The governor linkage and control tube assembly should be in the same position that they
would attain while the engine is running at full load.
3. Check the rack adjustment. Refer to section 12.4.10.

4. Remove the clevis pin from the fuel rod and the left bank injector control tube lever.
5. Insert the clevis pin in the fuel rod and the right cylinder bank injector control tube lever.
6. To position the No. 1L injector rack control lever, move the speed control lever to the
maximum speed position, and hold it in that position lightly with a finger.
7. Insert the clevis pin in the fuel rod and the left bank injector control tube lever.
8. Check the Injector rack control levers. Refer to section 12.4.10.
9. Check for and eliminate any deflection which occurs at the bend in the fuel rod where it
enters the cylinder head.
To adjust the remaining injector rack control levers, proceed as follows:
1. Remove the clevis pins from the fuel rods and the injector control tube levers.
2. Hold the injector control racks in the full-fuel position with the lever on the end of the
control tube.
NOTICE:
Do not overtighten the injector rack control tube lever adjusting
screw during installation or adjustment. This could damage
the injector control tube. The recommended torque is 3-4 N·m
(24-36 lb·in).
3. Tighten the adjusting screw of the No. 2L injector rack control lever until the injector rack
clevis rolls up or an increase in effort to turn the screwdriver is noted.
4. Securely lock the adjusting screw locknut.
5. Verify the injector rack adjustment of No. 1L. Refer to section 12.4.10.
6. If No. 1L does not spring upward, turn the No. 2L adjusting screw counterclockwise until
the No. 1L injector rack returns to its full-fuel position. Secure the adjusting screw locknut.

8V ENGINES)
7. Verify proper injector rack adjustment for both No. 1L and No. 2L injectors.
8. Turn the No. 2L injector rack adjusting screw clockwise or counterclockwise until both
No. 1L and No. 2L injector racks are in the full-fuel position when the locknut is securely
tightened.
9. Adjust the remaining injectors using the procedures outlined in step 5 through step 8.
NOTE:
Always verify proper injector rack adjustment. Refer to section 12.4.10 and
NOTE:
Once the No. L and No. 1R injector rack control levers are adjusted, do not try to alter
their settings. All adjustments are made on the remaining control racks.
10. When all of the injector rack control levers are adjusted, check their settings.
NOTE:
All the control racks must have the same spring condition with the control tube lever
in the fuel-fuel position.
11. Insert the clevis pin in the fuel rod and the injector control tube lever.
12. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw in until it projects 4.7625 mm (0.1875 in.) from the
locknut to permit engine starting.
12.4.9 Adjustment of External Starting Aid Screw
On current turbocharged engines, adjust the external starting aid screw as follows:
1. With the engine stopped, place the governor stop lever in the run position and the speed
control lever in the idle speed position.
2. Adjust the starting aid screw to obtain the required setting between the shoulder on
the injector rack clevis and the injector body. See Figure 12-40. The required setting

1. Starting Aid Screw 4. Locknut

2. Injector Rack Clevis 5. Gap Adjustment Screw
3. Injector Body 6. Locknut
Figure 12-40 Starting Aid Screw Adjustment

8V ENGINES)
Injector Gage Setting Tool Number Injector Gage Setting Tool Number
11.532 mm 9.778 mm
9200 J 23190 9E80 J 24882
(0.454 in.) (0.385 in.)
11.532 mm 9.778 mm
9215 J 23190 9E85 J 24882
(0.454 in.) (0.385 in.)
11.532 mm 11.532 mm
9225 J 23190 9F70 J 23190
(0.454 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9280 J 24882 9F80 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9285 J 24882 9F85 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
11.532 mm 11.532 mm
9290 J 23190 9F90 J 23190
(0.454 in.) (0.454 in.)
11.532 mm 9.778 mm
9295 J 23190 7G65 J 24882
(0.454 in.) (0.385 in.)
9.778 mm 9.778 mm
9A80 J 24882 7G70 J 24882
(0.385 in.) (0.385 in.)
9.778 mm 9.778 mm
9A85 J 24882 7G75 J 24882
(0.385 in.) (0.385 in.)
11.532 mm 11.532 mm
9A90 J 23190 9G75 J 23190
(0.454 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9B70 J 24882 9G85 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9B75 J 24882 9G90 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 10.26 mm
9B80 J 24882 9H85 J 9509-C
(0.385 in.) (0.404 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9B85 J 24882 9J85 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
11.532 mm 10.26 mm
9B90 J 23190 9K85 J 9509-C
(0.454 in.) (0.404 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9C70 J 24882 9S65 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9C75 J 24882 9S70 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9C80 J 24882 9S75 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
11.532 mm 11.532 mm
9C90 J 23190 9S80 J 23190
(0.454 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9E65 J 24882 9T70 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm
9E70 J 24882 — —
(0.385 in.)
Table 12-9 Starting Aid Screw Adjustment Specifications

3. Select the proper gage, and measure the setting at No. 2R cylinder.
NOTE:
When the starting aid screw is properly adjusted, the gage should have a small clearance
of 0.3969 mm (0.0156 in.) in the space along the injector rack shaft between the rack
clevis and the injector body.
4. After completing the adjustment, hold the starting aid screw, and tighten the locknut.
5. Place the stop lever in the run position.
6. Move the speed control lever from the idle speed position to the maximum speed position.
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
NOTICE:
To avoid engine damage, ensure injector racks move to the
no-fuel position when the governor stop lever is placed in the
stop position. Engine overspeed will result if the injector racks
cannot be positioned at no fuel with the governor stop lever.
7. Return the speed control lever to the idle speed position.
NOTE:
Governor speed control lever movement takes up the clearance in the governor linkage.
The injector rack clevis-to-body clearance can be increased by turning the starting aid
screw farther in against the gap adjusting screw, or reduced by backing it out. The
starting aid screw will be ineffective if the speed control lever is advanced toward wide
open throttle during start-up.
8. Use new gaskets and install the valve rocker covers.
12.4.10 Check Rack Adjustment (One Screw and Locknut Assembly)
Check the rack adjustment as follows:

1. Hold the speed control lever in the maximum speed position, and press the injector rack
down with a screwdriver or finger tip.

8V ENGINES)
2. Observe the injector control rack "rotation". See Figure 12-41.
1. Injector Control Rack
Figure 12-41 Checking Rotating Movement of Injector Control Rack
3. Hold the speed control lever in the maximum speed position.

4. Using a screwdriver, press the injector control rack down. See Figure 12-42.
NOTE:
The rack should tilt downward, and when the screwdriver is removed, the control rack
should "spring" upward.
1. Screwdriver 2. Injector Control Rack
Figure 12-42 Checking Injector Control Rack "Spring"
If the rack does not return to its original position, it is too loose. Correct the one screw and
locknut assembly as follows:
1. Loosen the locknut, and turn the adjusting screw clockwise.
2. Tighten the locknut.
The setting is too tight if, when moving the speed control lever from the no-speed to the maximum
speed position, the injector rack becomes tight before the speed control lever reaches the end of
its travel. Correct the one screw and locknut assembly as follows:
1. Loosen the locknut, and turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise.
12.4.11 Adjustment of One Screw and Locknut Lever Assembly
Adjust the one screw and locknut lever assembly as follows:

1. Tighten the adjusting the No. 1R injector rack control lever screw until the injector rack
clevis rolls.

8V ENGINES)
NOTICE:
To prevent possible damage to the injector control tube, do not
overtighten the injector rack control lever adjusting screws during
installation or adjustment. The recommended torque is 3-4 N·m
(24-36 lb·in).
2. Tighten the screw an additional 1/8 turn, and lock securely with the adjusting screw
locknut. This will place the No. 1R injector rack in the full-fuel position. The governor
linkage and control tube assembly should be in the same position that they would attain
while the engine is running at full load.
12.4.12 Position Injector Rack Control Lever (Non "TT" Engines with Two
Screw Assemblies)
Adjust the two screw lever assembly on non- "TT" engines as follows:
NOTE:
NOTE:
Adjusting the No. 1L injector rack control lever first establishes a guide for adjusting
the remaining injector rack control levers.

2. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw until 12.7 mm (0.5 in.) of the threads (12-14 threads)
NOTE:
This adjustment lowers the tension of the low-speed spring so it can be easily
compressed. The low speed gap can close without bending the fuel rods or causing the
yield mechanism springs to yield or stretch. A false fuel rack setting may result if the idle
speed adjusting screw is not backed out.
3. If not previously performed, back out the buffer screw approximately 15.88 mm
(0.625 in.).
lever.
NOTE:

your finger.
7. Turn the inner adjusting screw of the No. 1L injector rack control lever down until the
control tube lever moves slightly or a step up in effort to turn the screw is observed.
See Figure 12-43.
NOTE:
This will place the No. 1L injector rack in the full-fuel position.
1. Outer Adjusting Screw 4. Speed Control Lever

2. Inner Adjusting Screw 5. Stop Lever
3. Fuel Rod
Figure 12-43 Injector Rack Control Lever Two Screw Assembly (Position No. 1)
8. Turn down the outer adjusting screw until it bottoms lightly on the injector control tube.

8V ENGINES)
NOTICE:
Do not overtighten the injector rack control lever adjusting screws
during installation or adjustment. This can damage the injector
control tube. The recommended adjusting screw torque is 3-4
N·m (24-36 lb·in.).
9. Alternately tighten both the inner and outer adjusting screws.

10. Check the rack adjustment. Refer to section 12.4.14.
12. Insert the clevis pin in the fuel rod and the right cylinder bank injector control tube lever.
13. To position the No. 1L injector rack control lever, move the speed control lever to the
maximum speed position, and hold it in that position lightly with a finger.
15. Check the Injector rack control levers. Refer to section 12.4.10.
16. Check for and eliminate any deflection which occurs at the bend in the fuel rod where it
enters the cylinder head.
To adjust the remaining injector rack control levers, proceed as follows:
1. Remove the clevis pins from the fuel rods and the injector control tube levers.
2. Hold the injector control racks in the full-fuel position with the lever on the end of the
control tube.
NOTICE:
(24-36 lb·in).
3. Turn down the inner adjusting screw of the injector rack control lever until the screw
bottoms (injector control rack in the full-fuel position).
4. Turn down the outer adjusting screw of the injector rack control lever until it bottoms on
the injector control tube.
5. While still holding the control tube lever in the full-fuel position, adjust the inner and
outer adjusting screws to make the rack tilt downward. The control rack should spring
back upward when released.

NOTICE:
(24-36 lb·in).
6. Tighten the screw.

7. Adjust the remaining injectors using the procedures outlined in step 3 through step 6.
NOTE:
Always verify proper injector rack adjustment.
NOTE:
Once the No. 1L and No. 1R injector rack control levers are adjusted, do not try to alter
8. When all of the injector rack control levers are adjusted, check their settings.
NOTE:
All the control racks must have the same spring condition with the control tube lever
in the fuel-fuel position.
9. Insert the clevis pin in the fuel rod and the injector control tube lever.
12.4.13 Adjustment of External Starting Aid Screw (Turbocharged

Engines)
On current turbocharged engines, adjust the external starting aid screw as follows:
2. Adjust the starting aid screw to obtain the required setting between the shoulder on
the injector rack clevis and the injector body. See Figure 12-44. The required setting

8V ENGINES)
1. Starting Aid Screw 4. Locknut

2. Injector Rack Clevis 5. Gap Adjusting Screw
3. Injector Body 6. Locknut

Injector Gage Setting Tool Number Injector Gage Setting Tool Number
11.532 mm ) 9.778 mm
9200 J 23190 9E80 J 24882
(0.454 in. (0.385 in.)
11.532 mm 9.778 mm
9215 J 23190 9E85 J 24882
(0.454 in.) (0.385 in.)
11.532 mm 11.532 mm
9225 J 23190 9F70 J 23190
(0.454 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9280 J 24882 9F80 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9285 J 24882 9F85 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
11.532 mm 11.532 mm
9290 J 23190 9F90 J 23190
(0.454 in.) (0.454 in.)
11.532 mm 9.778 mm
9295 J 23190 7G65 J 24882
(0.454 in.) (0.385 in.)
9.778 mm 9.778 mm
9A80 J 24882 7G70 J 24882
(0.385 in. (0.385 in.)
9.778 mm ) 9.778 mm
9A85 J 24882 7G75 J 24882
(0.385 in.) (0.385 in.)
11.532 mm 11.532 mm
9A90 J 23190 9G75 J 23190
(0.454 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9B70 J 24882 9G85 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9B75 J 24882 9G90 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 10.26 mm
9B80 J 24882 9H85 J 9509-C
(0.385 in.) (0.404 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9B85 J 24882 9J85 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
11.532 mm 10.26 mm
9B90 J 23190 9K85 J 9509-C
(0.454 in.) (0.404 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9C70 J 24882 9S65 J 23190
(.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9C75 J 24882 9S70 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9C80 J 24882 9S75 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
11.532 mm 11.532 mm
9C90 J 23190 9S80 J 23190
(0.454 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm 11.532 mm
9E65 J 24882 9T70 J 23190
(0.385 in.) (0.454 in.)
9.778 mm
9E70 J 24882 — — —
(0.385 in.)
Table 12-10 Starting Aid Screw Adjustment Specifications

8V ENGINES)
3. Select the proper gage, and measure the setting at No. 2R cylinder.
NOTE:
of 0.3969 mm (0.0156 in.) in the space along the injector rack shaft between the rack
clevis and the injector body.
5. Place the stop lever in the run position.
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
NOTE:
Governor speed control lever movement takes up the clearance in the governor linkage.
The injector rack clevis-to-body clearance can be increased by turning the starting aid
screw farther in against the gap adjusting screw, or reduced by backing it out. The
starting aid screw will be ineffective if the speed control lever is advanced toward wide
open throttle during start-up.
12.4.14 Check Rack Adjustment (Two Screw Assembly)
Check the rack adjustment as follows:

1. Hold the speed control lever in the maximum speed position, and press the injector rack
down with a screwdriver or finger tip.

2. Observe the injector control rack "rotation". See Figure 12-45.
3. Hold the speed control lever in the maximum speed position.

8V ENGINES)
4. Using a screwdriver, press the injector control rack down. See Figure 12-46.
NOTE:
The rack should tilt downward, and when the screwdriver is removed, the control rack
should "spring" upward.
If the rack does not return to its original position, it is too loose. Correct the one screw and
locknut assembly as follows:
1. Slightly back off the outer adjusting screw.
2. Slightly tighten the inner adjusting screw.
The setting is too tight if, when moving the speed control lever from the no-speed to the maximum
speed position, the injector rack becomes tight before the speed control lever reaches the end of
its travel. Correct the one screw and locknut assembly as follows:
1. Slightly back off the inner adjusting screw.
2. Slightly tighten the outer adjusting screw.

12.4.15 Position Injector Rack Control Levers ("TT" Engines)
Position the injector rack as follows:
NOTE:

2. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw until no tension in the idle spring exists.
NOTE:
A false fuel rack setting may result if the idle speed adjusting screw is not backed out.
lever.
NOTE:
your finger.

8V ENGINES)
injector rack clevis is bottomed against the injector body.
NOTE:
The injector rack should be easily rotated but not moved in and out. See Figure 12-47.
NOTE:
This will place the No. 1L injector rack in the full-fuel position. The governor linkage and
control tube assembly should be in the same position they will attain while the engine
is operating at full load.
7. Using a screwdriver or finger, hold the speed control lever in the maximum speed position.
8. Observe whether injector rack clevis moves freely but not inboard or outboard.
NOTE:
If the rack lever moves inboard or outboard, it is loose. The injector rack is too tight if the
rack clevis springs back after being depressed with a screwdriver.
9. If not moving correctly, adjust and verify.

10. Remove the clevis pin from the fuel rod at the left bank injector control tube lever.
11. Insert the clevis pin in the fuel rod at the right cylinder bank injector control tube lever,
and position the No. 1L injector rack control lever.
your finger.

injector rack clevis is bottomed against the injector body.
NOTE:
The injector rack should be easily rotated but not moved in and out. See Figure 12-48.
NOTE:
This will place the No. 1L injector rack in the full-fuel position. The governor linkage and
control tube assembly should be in the same position they will attain while the engine
is operating at full load.
14. Using a screwdriver or finger, hold the speed control lever in the maximum speed position.
15. Observe whether the injector rack clevis moves freely but not inboard or outboard.
NOTE:
If the rack lever moves inboard or outboard, it is loose. The injector rack is too tight if the
rack clevis springs back after being depressed with a screwdriver.
16. Insert the clevis pin in the fuel rod at the left bank injector control tube lever.
17. Verify that the adjustment for chart of the No. 1L and No. 1R injector racks are equal.
18. Move the speed control lever to the maximum speed position.

8V ENGINES)
19. Rotate the clevis pins at the injector control tube levers, and observe a slight drag or
resistance.
NOTE:
The pin should move freely back and forth by finger with no fuel rod deflection. This
slight drag should be equal for both pins.
20. If the drag is not equal, turn either the No. 1R or No. 1L rack adjusting screw until both
1L and 1R pins Are the same.
21. Move the speed control lever back to the idle position and back to the full-fuel position.
22. Observe whether the fuel rods do not deflect.
NOTE:
If they do deflect, the rack adjustment for either bank is too tight and must be readjusted.
NOTE:
Adjust the remaining injector rack control levers as follows:

1. Remove the clevis pins from the fuel rod at the injector control tube levers.
2. Hold the left bank injector control racks in the full-fuel position with the lever on the
end of the control tube.
5. Verify the injector rack adjustment on No. 1L.
6. If No. 1L does not spring back upward, slightly turn the No. 2L adjusting screw
counterclockwise until the No. 1L injector rack returns to its full-fuel position.
7. Secure the adjusting screw locknut.
No. 1L and No. 2L injector racks are in the full-fuel position when the locknut is securely
tightened.
10. Adjust the remaining injectors. Refer to step 5 through step 9.
11. When all the injector rack control levers are adjusted, recheck their settings.
12. With the control tube level in the full-fuel position, check each injector control rack.
Refer to step 1 through step 9.
NOTE:
All injector control racks must have the same spring condition with the control tube levers
in the full-fuel position.

13. Insert the clevis pin in the fuel rods at the injector control tube lever, and secure with a
cotter pin.
14. Recheck the rack settings. Refer to step 12 through step 13.
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
16. Use new gaskets, and install the valve rocker covers.
12.4.16 Adjust Maximum No-Load Engine Speed (Standard Governor)
After positioning the injector rack control levers, set the maximum no-load engine speed as
follows:
NOTE:
Ensure buffer screw projects 15.88 mm (0.625 in.) from the locknut to prevent
interference while adjusting the maximum no-load speed.

8V ENGINES)
1. Loosen the spring retainer locknut, and back off the high-speed spring retainer
approximately five turns. See Figure 12-49.
1 High Speed Spring Retainer 2. Speed Control Lever
Figure 12-49 Adjusting Maximum No-Load Speed
2. With the engine running at operating temperature and no load on the engine, place the
speed control lever in the maximum speed position.
3. Turn the high-speed spring retainer until the engine is operating at the recommended
no-load speed.
4. Hold the high-speed spring retainer and tighten the locknut using spanner wrench J 5345-E.
12.4.17 Adjust Maximum No-Load Engine Speed (Dual Range Governor)
After positioning the injector control levers, set the maximum engine speeds as follows:
NOTE:
Ensure buffer screw or fast idle air cylinder projects 15.88 mm (0.625 in.) from the
locknut to prevent interference while adjusting the maximum no-load speeds.
NOTE:
Before proceeding, ensure spring housing assembly is mounted on the governor, the
piston and sleeve assembled with four 0.100 in. shims and ten 0.010 in. shims, and the
low maximum speed screw extends from the spring housing 31.75 mm (1.25 in.).
1. Start and warm-up the engine.

2. Position the speed control lever in the maximum speed position.

3. Turn the low maximum speed adjustment screw in until obtaining the high maximum
speed desired.
4. Stop the engine, and remove the spring housing assembly.
5. Observe the distance the piston is from the bottom of the spring housing when it is against
the low maximum speed screw. See Figure 12-50("X" distance).
1. Spring Housing 4. Piston

2. Shims 5. Sleeve
3. Maximum Low Speed Adjusting Screw 6. "X" Distance
Figure 12-50
6. Remove the sleeve from the piston.
NOTE:
When checking this distance, the piston should be held tight against the cover
adjustment screw.
NOTICE:
To avoid seal ring damage, do not permit the seal ring on the
piston to slide past the air inlet port.
7. Remove some shims from within the piston equal to the "X" distance.
8. Start the engine, and position the speed control lever in the maximum speed position.

8V ENGINES)
9. Apply air or oil pressure to the governor, and observe engine speed.
10. Remove the air or oil pressure form the governor, and stop the engine.
11. Install or remove shims as required to obtain the correct high maximum no-load speed.
NOTE:
Removing shims will decrease the engine speed and adding shims will increase the
engine speed. Each 0.010 in. shim removed or added will decrease or in crease the
engine speed approximately 10 RPM.
Set the low maximum no-load engine speed as follows:

1. Adjust the low maximum speed adjusting screw, with the speed control lever held in the
maximum speed position, until the desired low maximum speed is obtained.
NOTE:
Turn the screw in to increase or out to decrease the engine speed.
2. Check the engine speed, and adjust if necessary.

3. Check both the high maximum and low maximum engine speeds.
4. Make any necessary adjustments.
12.4.18 Adjust Idle Speed
With the maximum no-load speed properly set, adjust the idle speed as follows:
1. With the engine running at normal operating temperature and the buffer screw backed
out to avoid contact with the differential lever, turn the idle speed adjusting screw until

the engine operates at approximately 15 RPM below the recommended idle speed.
See Figure 12-51.
NOTE:
It may be necessary to use the buffer screw to eliminate engine roll. After the idle speed
is established, back out the buffer screw to the previous setting (15.875 mm or 0.625 in.).

2. Hold the idle screw, and tighten the locknut.

3. Install the high-speed spring retainer cover, and tighten the two bolts.
4. For "TT" engines, refer to section 12.9 for chart of the Belleville spring adjustment.
12.4.19 Adjust Buffer Screw
With the idle speed properly set, adjust the buffer screw as follows:
NOTE:
If the engine is running satisfactorily and has no roll, do not set the buffer screw.

8V ENGINES)
1. With the engine running at normal operating temperature, turn the buffer screw in so
it contacts the differential lever as lightly as possible and still eliminate engine roll.
See Figure 12-52.
NOTE:
Do not increase the engine idle speed more than 15 RPM with the buffer screw.
1. Screw 3. Locknut
2. Recheck the maximum no-load speed.

3. If the maximum no-load speed has increased more than 25 RPM, back off the buffer
screw until the increase is less than 25 RPM.
4. Hold the buffer screw, and tighten the locknut.
5. Shutdown the engine.


The governor on the 12V and 16V engine is mounted on and driven from the front end of the rear
blower. See Figure 12-53.
1. Auxiliary Control Link Housing 4. Rear Blower

2. Stop Lever 5. Governor
Figure 12-53 Governor Assembly Mounting
NOTE:
Before proceeding with the governor and injector rack adjustments, disconnect any
supplementary governing device. After the adjustments are completed, reconnect and
adjust the supplementary governing device. Refer to section 12.15.

12.5 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR AND INJECTOR RACK CONTROL ADJUSTMENT
(12V AND 16V ENGINES)
Back out the external starting aid screw. After adjusting the exhaust valves and timing the fuel
injectors, adjust the governor and position the injector rack control levers.
12.5.1 Position Control Link Levers
If the engine or governor has been overhauled, or the injector control linkage has been disturbed,
the control link levers in the governor housing and auxiliary control link housing must be aligned
before proceeding with the engine tune-up. See Figure 12-54, and position the control link levers,
as follows:
1. Auxiliary Control Link Housing 4. Adjustable Link

2. Control Link Lever 5. Connecting Link
3. Fuel Rod 6. Governor Operating Lever Control Link
Figure 12-54 Positioning Control Link Levers with Tools J 21779 and J 21780
1. Disconnect the linkage to the governor speed control lever and stop levers.

2. Remove the covers from the governor housing and auxiliary control link housing.
3. Disconnect the adjustable link from the lever in the auxiliary control link housing.
4. Remove the connecting pin from the auxiliary governor control link lever.
5. Install gage J 21779 so it extends through the lever and fuel rod and into the gage hole in
the bottom of the housing.
NOTE:
With the gage in place, the auxiliary control link lever will be in the mid-travel position.
6. Remove the connecting pin from the control link lever in the governor housing and install
gage J 21780.
NOTE:
Install the gage so the pin extends through the connecting link, control lever and fuel rod
and the governor housing dowel pin extends into the small hole in the gage.

7. Install a governor cover bolt. See Figure 12-55.
NOTE:
With gage J 21780 in place, the governor control link lever will be in the mid-travel
position and parallel to the auxiliary control link lever.
1. Auxiliary Control Link Housing 4. Adjustable Link

2. Control Link Lever 5. Connecting Link
3. Fuel Rod 6. Governor Operating Lever Control Link
Figure 12-55 Positioning Control Link Levers with Tools J 21779 and J 21780
8. Adjust the length of the adjustable connecting link to retain the lever positions, and install
the link.
9. Remove gages J 21779 and J 21780, and reinstall the control link lever connecting pins.
10. Install the governor housing and auxiliary control link housing covers.

12.5.2 Adjust the Governor Gap
With the engine stopped and at operating temperature, set the governor gap as follows:
1. Remove the governor high speed spring retainer cover.
See Figure 12-56.
1. Locknut 2. Buffer Screw

4. Adjust the idle screw to obtain the desired idle speed. See Figure 12-57.
NOTE:
The recommended idle speed is 400-450 RPM, but may vary with special engine
applications.
1. Locknut 2. Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
5. Hold the screw, and tighten the locknut to hold the adjustment.
NOTE:
Governors used in turbocharged engines include a starting aid screw threaded into the
governor housing (current engines) or the governor gap adjusting screw (early engines).
A locknut is not required on early engines. Both the gap adjusting screw and the starting
aid screw incorporate a nylon patch in lieu of locknuts.
6. Stop the engine.

7. Clean and remove the governor cover and lever assembly and the valve rocker covers.

PERSONAL INJURY
NOTICE:
To avoid engine damage, do not overspeed the engine.
8. Start and run the engine between 1100 and 1300 RPM by manual operation of the
differential lever.
9. Check the gap between the low speed spring cap and the high speed spring plunger with a
feeler gage. See Figure 12-58.
NOTE:
The gap should be 0.002–0.004 in. If the gap setting is incorrect, reset the gap adjusting
screw.
1. High Speed Spring Plunger 3. Internal Starting Aid Screw

2. Low Speed Spring Cap 4. Gap Adjusting Screw
Figure 12-58 Governor Gap Adjustment
10. On governors without the internal starting aid screw, hold the gap adjusting screw, and
tighten the locknut.

11. Recheck the governor gap with the engine operating between 1100 and 1300 RPM, and
readjust, if necessary.
NOTE:
Do not install the governor cover and lever assembly on early engines that include
the internal starting aid screw.
12. Stop the engine, and using a new gasket, install the governor cover and lever assembly.
12.5.3 Position Injector Rack Control Levers (Two Screw Assembly)
The position of the injector racks must be correctly set in relation to the governor. Their position
determines the amount of fuel injected into each cylinder and ensures equal distribution of the
load.
NOTE:
To ensure proper injector control rack adjustment, the injector racks must be adjusted
with the yield link and governor cover that will be used with the governor.
following:
2. Governor low speed gap closed.
3. High speed spring plunger on the seat in the governor control housing.
The letters "R" and "L" indicate the injector location in the right or left cylinder bank, viewed
from the rear of the engine. Cylinders are numbered starting at the front of the engine on each
cylinder bank. Adjust the No. 4R (16V) or the No. 3R (12V) injector rack control lever first to
establish a guide for adjusting the remaining right bank injector rack control levers.
Injector racks must be adjusted so the effort to move the throttle from the idle speed position to
the maximum speed position is uniform. A sudden increase in effort can result from:
1. Injector racks adjusted too tightly, causing the yield link to separate.
2. Binding of the fuel rods.
3. Failure to back out the idle screw.
NOTE:
A false full-fuel rack setting may result if the idle speed adjusting screw is not backed out.
Position the rack as follows:

1. Adjust the idle speed adjusting screw until 12.7 mm (0.5 in.) of the threads (12-14 threads)
2. Back out the buffer screw 15.88 mm (0.625 in.), if this has not already been done.

3. Loosen all inner and outer injector rack control lever adjusting screws or adjusting screws
and locknuts on both cylinder banks.
NOTE:
Ensure all levers are free on the injector control tubes.
4. Move the linkage through its full range of travel to check for binding in the governor
to control tube linkage.
5. Remove the clevis pins that attach the right rear bank and both left bank fuel rods to
the injector control tube levers.

7. Hold the speed control lever lightly with your finger. See Figure 12-59.
1. Outer Adjusting Screw 6. Adjusting Screw

2. Fuel Rod 7. Locknut
3. Speed Control Lever 8. Injector Rack Control Lever
4. Injector Control Tube 9. Spring
5. Inner Adjusting Screw
Figure 12-59 Injector Rack Control Lever, Positioning No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R
(12V)
8. Adjust the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack by turning the inner adjusting
screw down until the control tube moves slightly or a step-up in effort to turn the
screwdriver is noted.
NOTE:
This will place the rack in the full-fuel position.

9. Turn the outer adjusting screw until it bottoms lightly on the control tube.
NOTICE:
Overtightening the injector rack control lever adjusting screws
during installation or adjustment can damage the injector control
tube. The recommended adjusting screw torque is 3-4 N·m
(24-36 lb·in).
11. To be sure of the proper rack adjustment, hold the speed control lever in the maximum
speed position, and press down on the injector rack with a screwdriver or finger tip.
12. Observe the "rotating" movement of the injector control rack. See Figure 12-60.
13. Hold the speed control lever in the maximum speed position, and using a screwdriver,
press downward on the injector control rack.
NOTE:
The rack should tilt downward, and when the pressure of the screwdriver is released,
the control rack should "spring" back upward. See Figure 12-61. If the rack does not
return to its original position, it is too loose. The setting is too tight if, when moving the
speed control lever from the no-speed to the maximum speed position, the injector rack
becomes tight before the speed control lever reaches the end of its travel (as determined

by the stop under the governor cover). This will result in a step-up in effort required to
move the speed control lever to the end of its travel.
14. If the rack is loose, slightly back off the outer adjusting screw, and tighten the inner
adjusting screw.
15. If the rack is tight, slightly back off the inner adjusting screw, and slightly tighten the
outer adjusting screw.
16. Remove the fuel rod-to-control tube lever clevis pin from the right front bank fuel rod, and
install it on the right rear bank fuel rod.
Adjust the No. 5R (16V) or No. 4R (12V) injector rack as follows:
2. Hold the speed control lever lightly with your finger.
3. Adjust the No. 5R (16V) or No. 4R (12V) injector rack by turning the inner adjusting
screw down until the control tube moves slightly or a step-up in effort to turn the
screwdriver is noted.
NOTE:
This will place the rack in the full-fuel position.
4. Turn the outer adjusting screw until it bottoms lightly on the control tube.

NOTICE:
Overtightening the injector rack control lever adjusting screws during
installation or adjustment can damage the injector control tube. The
recommended adjusting screw torque is 3-4 N·m (24-36 lb·in).
6. To ensure proper rack adjustment, hold the speed control lever in the maximum speed
position, and press down on the injector rack with a screwdriver or finger tip.
NOTE:

adjusting screw.
NOTE:
When the settings are correct, the No. 4R, 5R, 4L and 5L (16V) or No. 3R, 4R, 3L
and 4L (12V) injector racks will be snug on the ball end of the control levers when the
injectors are in the full-fuel position.
With the fuel rod disconnected from the injector control tube lever, adjust the remaining injector
rack control levers on the right front bank as follows:
1. Hold the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack in the full-fuel position with the
control tube lever.
2. Turn the inner adjusting screw of the No. 3R (16V) or No. 2R (12V) injector rack control
lever until the injector rack has moved into the full-fuel position.
3. Turn the outer adjusting screw down until it bottoms lightly on the injector control tube.

NOTICE:
Overtightening injector rack control tube lever adjusting screws
(24-36 lb·in.).
5. Check the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack to be sure it has remained snug on
the ball end of the injector rack control lever.
6. If the rack of the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector has become loose, back off the
inner adjusting screw slightly on the No. 3R (16V) or No. 2R (12V) injector rack control
lever, and tighten the outer adjusting screw.
NOTICE:
Overtightening the injector rack control tube lever adjusting
screws during installation or adjustment can damage the
injector control tube. The recommended torque of the adjusting
screws is 3-4 N·m (24-36 lb·in).
7. Verify the injector rack adjustment of No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V).

8. If No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) does not "spring" back upward, turn the No. 3R
counterclockwise slightly until the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack returns
to its full-fuel position.
NOTE:
When the settings are correct, both injector racks must respond in the same manner
on the ball ends of the control levers when the injector control tube lever is held in the
full-fuel position.
9. Position the remaining injector rack control levers on the right front cylinder bank.
10. Adjust the remaining injector rack control levers on the right rear, left front and left rear
cylinder banks. Refer to step 1 through step 11.
11. Install the four fuel rod-to-control tube lever clevis pins, and check the adjustment of
the injector rack control levers.
12. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw in until it projects 4.7625 mm (0.1875 in.) from
the locknut.
On current turbocharged engines, adjust the external starting aid screw, as follows:

2. Adjust the starting aid screw to obtain the required setting between the shoulder on the
injector rack clevis and the injector body. See Figure 12-64. The gage setting and tool
numbers are listed in Table 12-11.
1. Starting Aid Screw 5. Required Setting

2. Locknut 6. Injector Aid Screw Adjustment
3. Gap Adjusting Screw 7. External Screw
4. Injector Body 8. Internal Screw

Injector Gage Setting Tool Number

9200 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9215 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9225 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9280 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9285 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9290 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9295 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9A80 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9A85 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9A90 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9B70 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9B75 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9B80 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9B85 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9B90 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9C70 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9C75 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9C80 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9C90 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9E65 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9E70 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9F90 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
7G65 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
7G70 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
7G75 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
Table 12-11 Starting Aid Screw Required Settings
3. Select the proper gage and measure the setting at any convenient cylinder.
NOTE:
of 0.396875 mm (0.015625 in.) in the space along the injector rack shaft between the
rack clevis and the injector body.
5. Position the stop lever in the run position.

8. Check the injector rack clevis-to-body clearance.
NOTE:
The speed control lever will move to take-up the clearance in the governor linkage. The
injector rack clevis-to-body clearance can be increased by turning the starting aid screw
farther in against the gap adjusting screw, or reduced by backing it out.
NOTE:
The starting aid screw will be ineffective if the speed control lever is advanced toward
wide open throttle during start-up.
9. Use new gaskets, and reinstall the valve rocker covers.
12.5.4 Position Injector Rack Control Levers (One Screw and Locknut
Assembly)
The position of the injector racks must be correctly set in relation to the governor. Their position
determines the amount of fuel injected into each cylinder and ensures equal distribution of the
load.
NOTE:
To ensure proper injector control rack adjustment, the injector racks must be adjusted
with the yield link and governor cover that will be used with the governor.
following:
2. Governor low speed gap closed.
3. High speed spring plunger on the seat in the governor control housing.
The letters "R" and "L" indicate the injector location in the right or left cylinder bank, viewed
from the rear of the engine. Cylinders are numbered starting at the front of the engine on each
cylinder bank. Adjust the No. 4R (16V) or the No. 3R (12V) injector rack control lever first to
establish a guide for adjusting the remaining right bank injector rack control levers.
Injector racks must be adjusted so the effort to move the throttle from the idle speed position to
the maximum speed position is uniform. A sudden increase in effort can result from:
□ Injector racks adjusted too tightly, causing the yield link to separate.
□ Binding of the fuel rods.
□ Failure to back out the idle screw.
NOTE:
A false full-fuel rack setting may result if the idle speed adjusting screw is not backed out.
Position the rack as follows:

1. Adjust the idle speed adjusting screw until 12.7 mm (0.5 in.) of the threads (12-14 threads)
2. Back out the buffer screw 15.88 mm (0.625 in.) if it has not already been done.
3. Loosen all inner and outer injector rack control lever adjusting screws or adjusting screws
and locknuts on both cylinder banks.
NOTE:
4. Move the linkage through its full range of travel to check for any bind in the governor
to control tube linkage.
5. Remove the clevis pins that attach the right rear bank and both left bank fuel rods to


(12V)

NOTICE:
(24-36 lb·in).
8. Tighten the adjusting screw of the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack control
lever until the injector rack clevis rolls up or an increase in effort to turn the screwdriver
is noted.
9. Tighten the screw approximately 1/8 of a turn more, and lock securely with the adjusting
screw locknut.
NOTE:
This will place the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack in the full-fuel position.
10. To be sure of the proper rack adjustment, hold the speed control lever in the maximum
speed position, and press down on the injector rack with a screwdriver or finger tip.

NOTE:
adjusting screw.
Adjust the No. 5R (16V) or No. 4R (12V) injector rack as follows:


(12V)
3. Tighten the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack adjusting screw until the control
tube moves slightly or a step-up in effort to turn the screwdriver is noted.

screw locknut.
NOTE:
NOTICE:
(24-36 lb·in).
5. To ensure proper rack adjustment, hold the speed control lever in the maximum speed
position, and press down on the injector rack with a screwdriver or finger tip.
NOTE:

adjusting screw.
NOTE:
injectors are in the full-fuel position.
With the fuel rod disconnected from the injector control tube lever, adjust the remaining injector
rack control levers on the right front bank as follows:
1. Hold the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack in the full-fuel position with the
control tube lever.

NOTICE:
Overtightening injector rack control tube lever adjusting screws
(24-36 lb·in.).
lever until the injector rack clevis is observed to roll up or an increase in effort to turn
the screwdriver is noted.
4. Verify the injector rack adjustment of No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V).
5. If No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) does not "spring" back upward, turn the No. 3R
counterclockwise slightly until the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack returns
to its full-fuel position.
6. Secure the adjusting screw locknut. Verify proper injector rack adjustment for both No.
4R and No. 3R (16V) or No. 3R and No. 2R (12V) injectors.
7. Turn the No. 3R (16V) or No. 2R (12V) injector rack adjusting screw clockwise or
counterclockwise until both No. 4R and No. 3R (16V) or No. 3R and No. 2R (12V)
injector racks are in the full-fuel position when the locknut is securely tightened.
NOTE:
on the ball ends of the control levers when the injector control tube lever is held in the
full-fuel position.
11. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw in until it projects 4.7625 mm (0.1875 in.) from
the locknut.
On current turbocharged engines, adjust the external starting aid screw, as follows:
2. Adjust the starting aid screw to obtain the required setting between the shoulder on the
injector rack clevis and the injector body. See Figure 12-71. The gage setting and tool
numbers are listed in Table 12-12.

1. Starting Aid Screw 5. Required Setting

2. Locknut 6. Injector Rack Clevis
3. Gap Adjusting Screw 7. External Screw
4. Injector Body 8. Internal Screw

Injector Gage Setting Tool Number

9200 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9215 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9225 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9280 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9285 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9290 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9295 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9A80 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9A85 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9A90 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9B70 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9B75 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9B80 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9B85 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9B90 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9C70 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9C75 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9C80 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9C90 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
9E65 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9E70 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
9F90 11.532 mm (0.454 in.) J 23190
7G65 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
7G70 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
7G75 9.778 mm (0.385 in.) J 24882
Table 12-12 Starting Aid Screw Required Setting
3. Select the proper gage and measure the setting at any convenient cylinder.
NOTE:
of 0.396875 mm (0.015625 in.) in the space along the injector rack shaft between the
rack clevis and the injector body.
5. Position the stop lever in the run position.
7. Return the speed control lever to the idle speed position. Check the injector rack
clevis-to-body clearance.

8. Check the injector rack clevis-to-body clearance.
NOTE:
The speed control lever will move to take-up the clearance in the governor linkage. The
injector rack clevis-to-body clearance can be increased by turning the starting aid screw
farther in against the gap adjusting screw, or reduced by backing it out.
NOTE:
The starting aid screw will be ineffective if the speed control lever is advanced toward
wide open throttle during start-up.
Adjust the idle speed as follows:

1. With the engine running, at normal operating temperature and with the buffer screw
backed out to avoid contact with the differential lever, turn the idle speed adjusting screw

until the engine is operating approximately 15 RPM below the recommended idle speed.
See Figure 12-72.
NOTE:
The recommended idle speed is 400-450 RPM but may vary with certain engine
applications.
NOTE:
It may be necessary to use the buffer screw to eliminate engine roll. After idle speed is
established, back out the buffer screw to the previous setting (15.875 mm or 0.625 in.).
1. Locknut 2. High Speed Adjusting Screw
2. Hold the idle screw and tighten the locknut.

3. Install the high speed spring retainer cover.
12.5.6 Adjust Maximum No-Load Engine Speed
All governors are properly adjusted before leaving the factory. If the governor has been
reconditioned or replaced and to ensure the engine speed will not exceed the recommended
no-load speed as given on the option plate, set the maximum no-load speed as follows:
NOTE:
Ensure buffer screw projects 15.88 mm (0.625 in.) to prevent interference while adjusting
the maximum no-load speed.

1. Loosen the spring retainer locknut, and back off the high-speed spring retainer
approximately five turns. See Figure 12-73.
1. Locknut 2. Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
2. With the engine running at operating temperature, and no load on the engine, place the
speed control lever in the maximum speed position.
3. Turn the high speed spring retainer until the engine is operating at the recommended
no-load speed.
4. Hold the high speed spring retainer, and tighten the locknut using spanner wrench
J 5345-E.
With the idle speed properly set, adjust the buffer screw, as follows:

1. With the engine running at normal operating temperature, turn the buffer screw in so
it contacts the differential lever as lightly as possible and still eliminates engine roll.
See Figure 12-74.
NOTE:
Do not increase the engine idle speed more than 15 RPM with the buffer screw.
1. Locknut 2. Buffer Screw
2. Check the maximum no-load speed. If it has increased more than 25 RPM, back off the
buffer screw until the increase is less than 25 RPM.


CHECKING AND SETTING PROCEDURE
The following is accomplished with the engine stopped.

A new governor weight wedge tool J 35516 and the accompanying procedure can be used only
on double weight limiting speed governors.
PERSONAL INJURY
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
Verification of the governor gap setting should not be considered necessary until "Vehicle Low
Power/Performance at Low Mileage" has been used to troubleshoot the engine performance
concern.
12.6.1 Governor Gap Checking Procedure
Check governor gap as follows:

1. With the governor on the vehicle, set the engine idle speed at 600 RPM, and stop the
engine.
NOTE:
The static governor gap setting is established at the factory based upon a 600 RPM
engine idle. Therefore, when verifying a factory tune-up, the governor idle speed should
be set at 600 RPM.

12.6 STATIC DOUBLE WEIGHT LIMITING SPEED GOVERNOR GAP CHECKING AND SETTING
PROCEDURE
PERSONAL INJURY
system.

3. With the engine stopped, manually bar the engine over in the direction of normal engine
rotation until the governor weights are in a horizontal position.
NOTE:
On "TT" governors, the Belleville spring retainer nut must be backed out until there is
approximately 1.52 mm (0.060 in.) clearance between the washers and the retainer nut
before checking or resetting the governor gap.
4. Insert governor weight wedge J 35516 between the low-speed weight and the governor
riser. See Figure 12-75 and see Figure 12-76.
NOTE:
The tapered face of the wedge should be against the riser and positioned between the
flanges on the ends of the riser.
1 Tool Handle 2. Tool Wedge

travel stop.
NOTICE:
6. While holding the wedge in the bottom position, use a feeler gage to measure the gap
between the low speed spring cap and the high speed spring plunger. See Figure 12-77
NOTE:
The gap should measure 0.08–0.48 mm (0.003–0.019 in.). Reset the gap to 0.20 mm
(0.008 in.) if the measured gap is out of limits. Refer to section 12.7.1.

PROCEDURE

Figure 12-77 High and Low Speed Spring and Plunger


2. High Speed Spring 4. Gap Adjusting Screw
7. Remove the wedge and replace the governor cover using a new gasket.
8. Reset Belleville springs. Refer to section 12.9.
12.6.2 Set Governor Gap (Governor on Engine)
Set the governor gap as follows:

These procedures permit adjusting the gap while the governor is installed on an engine or
removed and on a bench.

PROCEDURE
Before adjusting the gap on "TT" governors, the Belleville spring retainer nut must be backed
out until there is approximately 1.52 mm (0.060 in.) clearance between the washers and the
retainer nut. See Figure 12-79.

1. Disconnect any supplementary governor devices.

2. Set the engine idle speed at 600 RPM, and stop the engine.
PERSONAL INJURY
system.

4. With the engine stopped, manually bar the engine over in the direction of normal engine
rotation until the governor weights are in a horizontal position.
NOTE:
flanges on the ends of the riser.

PROCEDURE
1. Low Speed Spring 2. Riser
travel stop.
NOTICE:
7. Use a feeler gage to set the gap between the low speed spring cap and the high speed
spring plunger at 5.161 mm (0.2032 in.).
8. Tighten the governor gap adjusting screw locknut. See Figure 12-82 and see Figure 12-83.


4. Bushing 12. Idle Speed Ping
8. Set Screw 16.. Low Speed Spring

PROCEDURE

was being set.
10. Check the gap while holding the tool in this position.
11. If the gap is incorrect, reset to 0.20 mm (0.008 in.).
12. Remove the wedge.
NOTE:
The buffer, idle speed, no-load speed and starting aid screws, the injector racks, and
supplemental governor devices require adjustment whenever the governor gap is
changed.
13. Reset Belleville springs. Refer to section 12.9.
12.6.3 Setting the Gap (Governor on a Bench)
Set the gap as follows:
NOTE:
When setting the governor gap on a bench, the governor must be mounted on a blower
to support and protect the governor weight carrier shaft.

1. Position the idle screw.
NOTE:
On all Non- "TT" governors with a normal 25.4 mm (1.00 in.) long idle adjustment screw,
the screw should be set so that it extends 8.26 mm (0.325 in.). On all "TT" governors
with a normal 25.4 mm (1.00 in.) long idle adjustment screw, the screw should be set to
extend 10.16 mm (0.400 in.). This dimension is measured from the face of the idle speed
adjusting screw locknut to the end of the idle speed adjusting screw with a tolerance of ±
0.38 mm (± 0.015 in.). For governors with a variable high-speed option, which use a 44.5
mm (1.75 in.) long idle adjustment screw, the screw should be set to extend 27.31 mm
(1.075 in.) on all non- "TT" governors or 29.21 mm (1.150 in.) on all "TT" governors.
These idle screw projections result in a nominal 600 RPM idle speed.
2. Rotate the governor weights until they are in a horizontal position.

3. Insert governor weight wedge tool J 35516 between the low-speed weight and the
governor riser.
NOTE:
flanges on the ends of the riser. To prevent the weights from rotating when the governor
weight wedge tool is inserted, a clean, soft rag should be wedged between the blower
housing and the blower rotors.
travel stop.
NOTICE:
To prevent damage to the weights, riser, or housing, do not use
a screwdriver to pry the weights.
5. Ensure governor high-speed spring plunger is seated.

6. Turn in the high-speed retainer as required to seat the plunger.
7. With the wedge in the bottom position, use a feeler gage between the low speed spring cap
and the high speed spring plunger to set the gap at 0.20 mm (0.008 in.).
8. Tighten the governor gap adjusting screw locknut.
was being set.
10. Check the gap while holding the tool in this position.
11. If the gap is incorrect, reset to 0.20 mm (0.008 in.).
12. Remove the wedge, and install the cover using a new gasket.

12.7 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENT (VARIABLE LOW-SPEED)

(VARIABLE LOW-SPEED)
The governor is a single-weight type and provides an idle speed range of 500 to 1800 RPM.
At the unloading area, the throttle is left in the idle speed position and the speed adjusting handle
on the cable operated governor is turned to the speed required within the above range to operate
the auxiliary equipment. See Figure 12-84. For the air operated governor, increasing or decreasing
the air supply pressure to the governor changes the engine speed as required. See Figure 12-85
and see Figure 12-86. The governor functions as a variable speed governor, maintaining a
constant speed when the load is constantly changing during the unloading operation. Before
resuming highway operations, the speed adjusting handle on the cable operated governor must be
turned to the stop, then turned ahead about one-quarter turn. The air operated governor air supply
pressure must be vented before resuming highway operations.

1. Low Speed Spring Cap 11. Speed Adjusting Handle

2. Low Speed Spring (Outer) 12. Spring Housing
3. Low Speed Spring (Inner) 13. Adjusting Shaft Retainer
4. High Speed Spring 14. Adjusting Locknut
5. Governor Housing 15. High Speed Spring Plunger
6. Adjusting Shaft 16. High Speed Spring Retainer
9. Flexible Shaft 19. Low Speed Spring Plunger

1. Governor Housing 12. Idle Speed Jam Nut

3. High Speed Spring 14. Spring Housing
4. Idle Spring (Inner) 15. Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
5. Idle Spring (Outer) 16. Idle Speed Plunger
8. Retainer Nut 19. High Speed Jam Nut
9. Seal Ring 20. High Speed Plunger
11. Air Cylinder
Figure 12-85 Air Operated Variable Low Speed Limiting Speed Governor (1
of 2)

Figure 12-86 Variable Low Speed Limiting Speed Governor Optional

Combination Air Controls (2 of 2)
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
After adjusting the exhaust valves and timing the injectors, adjust the governor and position the
injector rack control levers.
12.7.1 Governor Gap Adjustment
With the engine at operating temperature, adjust the governor gap as follows:

1. Stop the engine.

2. Back out the buffer screw until it extends approximately 15.88 mm (0.625 in.) from
the locknut.
3. Remove the governor cover and lever assembly.
NOTE:
Ensure external starting aid screw is backed out far enough to make it ineffective when
making this adjustment.

4. Check the gap 5.08 mm (0.200 in.) between the low-speed spring cap and the high-speed
spring plunger with gage J 23478. See Figure 12-87. A 5.08 mm (0.200 in.) stack-up of
feeler gages can be used to check the gap if the gage is not available.

2. High Speed Spring Assembly
Gage J 23478
5. If required, loosen the locknut, and turn the gap adjusting screw until the gage slightly
drags.
7. Check the gap, and adjust, if necessary.
8. Affix a new gasket to the top of the governor housing.

PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
9. Place the governor cover assembly on the governor housing with the stop control shaft
assembly pin in the differential lever slot and the housing dowel pins in the cover dowel
pin holes.
12.7.2 Position Injector Rack Control Levers
If the governor gap was adjusted, position the injector rack control levers. Refer to section 12.4.7.
12.7.3 Inspection of Spring Housing Gasket
Inspect the spring housing gasket as follows:

1. Remove the spring housing from the governor housing.
2. Check the gasket for tears or breaks.
[a] If torn or broken, replace the gasket.
[b] If not torn or broken, continue inspection.
NOTE:
When removing the spring pack, care should be taken so that the low-speed spring cap
does not fall off the spring pack into the governor.
3. If the gasket requires replacement, remove the spring pack from the governor housing,
replace the gasket, and install the spring pack.
12.7.4 Maximum No-Load Engine Speed Adjustment
Adjust the maximum no-load engine speed. Refer to section 12.4.16.
12.7.5 Adjustment of Cable Operated Governor Idle Speed
Adjust cable operated governor idle speed as follows:

1. Back out the variable low-speed adjusting shaft until the shoulder on the shaft contacts the
shaft retainer. See Figure 12-88.
1. Low Speed Spring Cap 11. Speed Adjusting Handle

2. Low Speed Spring (Outer) 12. Spring Housing
3. Low Speed Spring (Inner) 13. Adjusting Shaft Retainer
4. High Speed Spring 14. Adjusting Locknut
5. Governor Housing 15. High Speed Spring Plunger
6. Adjusting Shaft 16. High Speed Spring Retainer
8. Seal Ring 18. Spring Retainer
9. Flexible Shaft 19. Low Speed Spring Plunger

2. Hold the locknut, and loosen the low-speed adjusting shaft retainer.
3. Start the engine.
4. Adjust the retainer and shaft assembly to obtain the desired idle speed (500 RPM
minimum).
5. Hold the retainer, and tighten the locknut to retain the adjustment.
NOTE:
It may be necessary to use the buffer screw to eliminate engine roll.
6. Place the spring housing over the spring pack.

7. Install the variable low-speed adjuster coupling.
8. Center the coupling before securing the spring housing to the governor.
9. Tighten the attaching bolts.
10. Install the flexible shaft and manual control assembly.
11. Use the speed adjusting handle to check idle speed settings.
12.7.6 Adjustment of Air Operated Governor Maximum Idle Speed
Adjust the air operated governor maximum idle speed as follows:

1. Remove the air cylinder assembly from the high-speed plunger.
2. Loosen the idle speed jam nut.

3. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw clockwise into the air cylinder until the piston contacts
the air cap and the air cap contacts the retainer ring. See Figure 12-89.

2. High Speed Spring Plunger
Gage J 23478 (0.200 in.)
4. Rotate the air cylinder on the high-speed plunger 2-3 turns.

6. With the speed control lever in the idle position, turn the air cylinder clockwise to raise the
idle speed and counterclockwise to lower the idle speed.
NOTE:
Initial observed idle speed will be between the minimum and maximum idle speeds.

7. Lock the air cylinder to the high-speed plunger with the jam nut in the maximum idle
speed position.
12.7.7 Adjustment of Air Operated Governor Minimum Idle Speed)
Adjust the air operated governor minimum idle speed as follows:
NOTE:
Make this adjustment after the maximum idle speed adjustment is completed.
1. Run the engine with the speed control lever in the idle speed position.
2. Turn the idle speed adjusting screw counterclockwise to lower the idle speed.
NOTE:
Over 3.18 mm (0.125 in.) screw travel is required to reach minimum idle speed.
3. Tighten the jam nut when desired minimum idle speed is reached.
NOTE:
It may be necessary to use the buffer screw to eliminate engine roll.
4. Install the spring housing over the spring pack.

5. Tighten the attaching bolts.
6. Connect the air supply to the spring housing.
7. Apply and vary air pressure to check the idle speed settings.
NOTE:
If speeds of less than 1800 RPM are always required, the speed can be set and
achieved with unregulated air. Additional lower speeds can be achieved with regulated
air pressure.
12.7.8 Adjustment of Buffer Screw
Adjust the buffer screw if not already done during the tune-up. Refer to section 12.10.6.

12.8 LIMITING SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR FAST IDLE CYLINDER
The limiting speed governor equipped with a fast idle air cylinder is used on vehicle engines
where the engine powers both the vehicle and auxiliary equipment.
The fast idle system consists of a fast idle air cylinder installed in place of the buffer screw and a
throttle locking air cylinder mounted on a bracket fastened to the governor cover. See Figure
12-90. An engine shutdown air cylinder, if used, is mounted on the governor cover.
1. Fast Idle Air Cylinder 3. Throttle Locking Air Cylinder

2. Shutdown Air Cylinder
Figure 12-90 Governor with Fast Idle Cylinder
Air from a common air line actuates the fast idle air cylinder and the throttle locking air cylinder
in unison. The engine shutdown air cylinder is connected to a separate air line.

An electric solenoid actuated air valve controls the air supply for the fast idle air cylinder. The
fast idle system should be installed so that it will function only when the parking brake system
is in operation. This makes it tamper-proof.
The vehicle accelerator-to-governor throttle linkage is connected to a yield link. The operator
cannot overcome the force of the air cylinder holding the speed control lever in the idle position
while the engine is operating at the single fixed high idle speed.
During highway operation, the governor functions as a limiting speed governor.
For auxiliary equipment operation, the vehicle is stopped and the parking brake set. With the
engine running, the low speed switch is placed in the on position. When the fast idle air cylinder
is actuated, the dual idle spring force is added to the governor low-speed spring force, increasing
the engine idle speed. See Figure 12-91.
1. Plunger 7. Ring
2. Spring 8. Inlet Plug
3. Cylinder 9. O-rings
4. Follower 10. Dual Idle Spring
5. Piston 11. Ring
6. Return Spring 12. Nut
Figure 12-91 Cutaway of Fast Idle Air Cylinder

The governor now functions as a constant speed governor at the high idle speed setting,
maintaining a near constant engine speed regardless of the load within the engine capacity.
The fast idle system provides a single fixed high idle speed that is not adjustable, except by
disassembling the fast idle air cylinder and changing the dual idle spring. As with all mechanical
governors, when load is applied, the governor droop will determine the engine speed.
12.8.1 Governor Adjustment
To adjust the governor, refer to section 12.4.16. Before adjusting the governor gap, back out the
de-energized fast idle air cylinder until it will not interfere with the governor adjustments. After
the normal idle speed setting is made, adjust the de-energized fast idle air cylinder as follows:
1. Turn in the fast idle cylinder assembly until the speed increases.
NOTE:
The increase in idle speed should not exceed 15 RPM.
2. Tighten the fast idle jam nut.
EYE INJURY
3. Lock the governor throttle in the idle position, and apply full shop air pressure to the
fast idle air cylinder.
NOTE:
The engine idle speed must increase from 325 to 500 RPM ± 50 RPM, depending on
the original idle speed setting and fast idle spring used.

The throttle locking air cylinder is adjusted on its mounting bracket so it will lock the
throttle in the idle position when it is activated, but will not limit the throttle movement
when not activated. See Figure 12-92.
1. Piston 5. Piston Rod

2. Cylinder 6. Lock Washer
3. Return Spring 7. Screw
4. Cap
Figure 12-92 Cutaway of Throttle Locking Air Cylinder

12.9 GOVERNOR SETTINGS FOR "TT" ENGINES
Two Belleville springs (washers) in a limiting speed governor achieves the ability to maintain
reasonably constant horsepower over a wide speed range and a 6% torque rise per 100 RPM.
See Figure 12-93.

4. Washers
NOTE:
The horsepower for "TT" engines indicate a flat horsepower performance curve. During
dynamometer testing, an engine may exhibit horsepower readings slightly above or below
the flat curve. A 5% horsepower variation from the flat published curve is acceptable.
The Belleville springs force works with the governor weights to pull the injector racks out of fuel
as the engine speed is increased. As increased load reduces the engine speed, the high-speed
spring overcomes the Belleville springs force and moves the injector racks to an increased fuel
position. The racks move progressively into more fuel to maintain the constant horsepower until
the racks are in full fuel at a speed near 1500 RPM.

12.9.1 Horsepower Rating and Cooling System Capacity
On-highway truck manufacturers provide cooling systems compatible with the horsepower
ratings on their customer's engines. Vehicles are normally equipped with a base cooling system
when a low horsepower engine is specified. A higher engine horsepower rating increases the
heat rejection rate for the engine and will require an upgraded cooling system. When vehicles
are ordered with higher engine horsepower ratings, truck manufacturers automatically provide
upgraded cooling systems.
Most Detroit Diesel vehicle engines horsepower can be easily upgraded after the engine is put
in service. Increasing the horsepower output without modifying the cooling system will lead
to engine overheating when the engine is used in certain service applications and geographic
areas of operation. Damage resulting from engine modifications contrary to manufacturer's
recommendations will not be covered under warranty.
NOTE:
Installation and use of any fuel injectors other than those which have been certified for
each engine may constitute tampering and be in violation of Federal and/or State laws.
If increased horsepower is essential to vehicle operation, the truck dealer/distributor or local

Detroit Diesel distributor should be contacted to determine whether the cooling system can handle
additional heat load or to specify the parts necessary to up the rating the cooling system.
A truck buyer who knows that a higher horsepower rating will be required during the vehicle life
should order the vehicle with cooling system components for the higher horsepower engine or
order the vehicle with the higher horsepower rating.
If the higher horsepower rating is specified, a Detroit Diesel dealer/distributor can decrease
the rating of the engine to the output desired. This procedure ensures adequate cooling for all
horsepower levels at which the engine will be operated. Cooling system components compatibility
with other options and accessories will be provided if this procedure is followed.
12.9.2 Belleville Spring "TT" Device Adjustment
Tune-up the "TT" engine the same as a standard engine tune-up. Refer to section 12.1.
After completing the standard engine tune-up of setting injector timing, valve clearance, governor
gap, injector racks and engine speeds, adjust the Belleville spring (washer) "TT" (tailor torqued)
device.
Remove the piston from the throttle delay or apply shop air pressure to the fuel modulators to
ensure they are inoperative during the tune-up process.
NOTE:
Use spanner wrench J 5345-E to loosen or tighten the spring retainer locknut during the
no-load speed adjustment. Always use the yield link in the governor when performing
the engine tune-up.
Two methods can be used for the Belleville springs adjustment for the "TT" horsepower,
depending on the equipment available at the service outlet. These methods are:

□ Idle Drop - without a dynamometer

□ Power Reduction Factor - using an engine, chassis or output shaft dynamometerFor
satisfactory results, both methods require an engine in good condition and properly tuned.
NOTICE:
Do not attempt a Belleville spring (washer) adjustment, an
idle droop setting, or a power reduction setting until an engine
tune-up has been properly performed.
12.9.3 Idle Drop (Method 1)
The idle drop method is an effective, accurate means for setting "TT" horsepower.
The idle drop method requires a specific reduction in engine speed to position the Belleville
springs and the governor low and high-speed springs. The governor components positions obtain
the desired "TT" horsepower.
When performing an idle drop horsepower adjustment on a "TT" engine having a 102 or 118 tooth
flywheel, an accurate tachometer is mandatory. Digital Tachometer J 26791 is recommended.
Each one RPM error in setting the idle drop results in a two or three horsepower error.
The tachometer is installed in the flywheel housing drain plug hole. It counts the flywheel teeth,
using a magnetic probe to pick up impulses off the flywheel ring gear. The electronic module
displays the engine speed digitally to one decimal place within one RPM accuracy. These
capabilities make it ideal for setting horsepower on the "TT" engines using the idle drop method.

To determine the number of teeth on the flywheel, when the engine flywheel part number is
unknown, measure the distance from the camshaft flywheel housing cover lower bolt head and
the outer circumference of the flywheel housing bell. See Figure 12-94. If this distance is
approximately 1.25 in., it is a 118 tooth flywheel. For the 102 tooth flywheel, the distance will be
approximately 2.5 in.
Figure 12-94 Identification of Engine Flywheel
When the number of teeth on the flywheel is known, set the switch on the tachometer to the
proper position. Proceed as follows:
1. Perform the standard engine tune-up. Set the no-load speed as required by the engine type,
injector size, and governor. Refer to section 12.9.6, listed in Table 12-13.
2. Disconnect the accelerator linkage from the governor speed control lever if it has not
already been done.
3. Run the engine until a stabilized engine coolant temperature is obtained.
4. Use engine type, injector size, and governor listed in the 1978 Chart, and select the initial
and specified idle drop numbers for the rated "TT" horsepower and rated engine speed at
which the engine is to operate. Refer to section 12.9.6, listed in Table 12-13.
5. Each idle drop Chart (1979 on) includes the following information:
□ Maximum Full Load RPM
□ Governor Part Numbers
□ Belleville Washer Part Numbers
□ Injector Size
□ Initial Idle Drop Starting RPM

The above should be considered to ensure the correct chart is being used. To maintain
certification as required by law, the engine horsepower cannot be adjusted beyond the
limits outlined on each chart.Refer to section 12.9.6, See Figure 12-96 and see Figure
12-97.
6. Using the idle adjusting screw, set the initial idle speed to that previously determined in
the charts. Refer to section 12.9.6.
7. With the governor speed control lever in the idle position, turn the Belleville spring
retainer nut clockwise on the plunger until the specified idle drop speed is achieved.
8. Secure the retainer nut with the locking screw. When the specified idle speed is achieved,
the engine is power controlled to the "TT" horsepower rating.
NOTE:
Idle speeds must be exact and steady. If they are not, check for bind or rubbing in the
governor, fuel rods, injector control tubes, and injector control racks.
9. Using the idle adjusting screw, lower the idle speed to the desired operating idle speed.
10. Adjust the buffer screw and the starting aid screw.
12.9.4 Power Reduction Factor (Method 2)
This method consists of setting "TT" engine horsepower to a specific percentage below full
throttle horsepower as observed on an engine, chassis, or output shaft dynamometer.
1. This method will provide the desired horsepower, within a reasonable tolerance, even with
normal variations of test conditions. Some of these variations would be:
□ Dynamometer Calibration
□ Driveline Efficiency
□ Fuel Grade and Temperature
□ Air Density
□ Tire Slippage
Proceed as follows:

2. Perform the standard engine tune up.
NOTE:
The throttle delay piston must be removed and the Belleville spring retainer nut must
be backed out until there is approximately 1.52 mm (0.060 in.) clearance between the
washers and retainer nut prior to operating the engine on the dynamometer.

4. Washers
3. Set the no-load speed as listed in the Charts. Refer to section 12.9.6.
4. Run the engine until the engine coolant temperature is above 77°C (170°F).
NOTE:
Satisfactory power adjustment can be obtained only if the full throttle horsepower and
adjusted horsepower are obtained with the engine cooling in the same mode, i.e.,
operating or not operating.
5. Using an engine, chassis, or output shaft dynamometer, measure and record full throttle
horsepower at 100 RPM below rated engine speed with the Belleville springs loose.
6. Refer to section 12.9.6, select the power reduction factor listed in Table 12-15 or
listed in Table 12-16 for the proper engine type, desired rated horsepower, and rated
engine speed.

7. Multiply the horsepower by the factor. Record this value.

8. Adjust the Belleville spring retainer nut clockwise so that the observed horsepower is
reduced to that previously recorded. Refer to step 6 at 100 RPM below rated engine
speed, with the governor speed control lever in the maximum speed position and the fan
operating in the same mode as previously noted. Refer to step 4.
9. Verify that the engine is obtaining adjusted "TT" horsepower, within 5%, at rated engine
speed.
NOTE:
If the adjusted "TT" horsepower cannot be obtained at rated engine speed, governor
droop interference may be the cause.
10. To eliminate droop interference, readjust the engine no-load speed from 150 to 175 RPM
above rated engine speed and repeat the power reduction factor method.
11. Check the idle speed and, if necessary, reset to the specified idle speed.
12. Adjust the buffer screw and starting aid screw.
12.9.5 Flexispec Engine Governor Adjustments "TT" Engine
When it is desirable to adjust a "TT" 6V or 8V engine to obtain non-TT maximum rated

horsepower, proceed as follows:
1. Adjust the engine governor to obtain a no-load speed 175 RPM above the desired rated
speed. Refer to section 12.4.16 for the no-load engine speed adjustment.
2. Position the Belleville spring retainer to provide 1.52 mm (0.060 in.) clearance between
the Belleville washers and the retainer when the engine is not running.
12.9.6 Governor Idle Droop Settings for TT Engines
Listed in Table 12-13 are the 1978 governor idle droop settings for TT engines:
Engine Type Injector Size Throttle Delay Rated Initial Idle Idle Droop
Setting Horsepower Setting
at Rated
Speed
6V-92TT* 9290 0.570 270 at 1800 880 810
260 at 1800 880 804
250 at 1800 880 798
240 at 1800 880 792
6V-92TT* 9290 0.570 270 at 1850 880 808
260 at 1850 880 802
250 at 1850 880 796
240 at 1850 880 790

at Rated
Speed
6V-92TT* 9290 0.636 270 at 1900 915 850
260 at 1900 915 845
250 at 1900 915 840
240 at 1900 915 835
6V-92TT* 9290 0.636 270 at 1950 915 848
260 at 1950 915 843
250 at 1950 915 838
240 at 1950 915 833
6V-92TT* 9290 0.636 270 at 1900 950 877
260 at 1900 950 873
250 at 1900 950 879
240 at 1900 950 865
6V-92TT* 9290 0.636 270 at 1950 950 875
260 at 1950 950 871
250 at 1950 950 867
240 at 1950 950 863
6V-92TT* 9290 0.636 290 at 1900 915 860
6V-92TT* 9290 0.636 290 at 1950 915 858
6V-92TT* 9290 0.636 270 at 1950 950 875
260 at 1950 950 871
250 at 1950 950 867
240 at 1950 950 863
6V-92TT* 9290 0.636 270 at 2100 1075 995
6V-92TTA* 9A90 0.636 270 at 1900 975 900
6V-92TTA* 9A90 0.636 270 at 1950 975 899
6V-92TTA 9A90 0.636 270 at 1900 915 838
260 at 1900 915 832
250 at 1900 915 825
240 at 1900 915 819
6V-92TTA 9A90 0.636 270 at 1950 915 837
260 at 1950 915 831
250 at 1950 915 824
240 at 1950 915 818
6V-92TTA 9A90 0.636 270 at 2100 1075 995
8V-92TT* 9A90 0.570 335 at 1800 830 765
8V-92TT* 9A90 0.570 335 at 1850 830 763
8V-92TT 9290 0.636 365 at 1900 915 850
8V-92TT 9290 0.636 365 at 1950 915 848
8V-92TT* 9A90 0.570 365 at 1900 950 880
335 at 1900 950 870
8V-92TT* 9A90 0.570 365 at 1950 950 878
335 at 1950 950 868
8V-92TT 9290 0.636 365 at 2100 1075 1005
8V-92TTA* 9A90 0.636 335 at 1800 880 795
8V-92TTA* 9A90 0.636 335 at 1850 880 793

at Rated
Speed
8V-92TTA* 9A90 0.636 365 at 1900 950 877
335 at 1900 950 865
8V-92TTA* 9A90 0.636 365 at 1950 950 875
335 at 1950 950 863
8V-92TTA 9A90 0.636 365 at 1900 950 867
335 at 1900 950 845
8V-92TTA 9A90 0.636 365 at 1950 950 865
335 at 1950 950 843
8V-92TTA 9A90 0.636 365 at 2100 1075 1000
* Uses Belleville Spring (Orange Dye)
Table 12-13 Governor 1978 Idle Droop Settings for TT Engines
See Figure 12-96 and see Figure 12-97 containing the 1979 6V TTA idle droop settings for
automotive engines.

Figure 12-96 Idle Droop Settings 6V TTA for 1979 (1 of 2)

Figure 12-97 Idle Droop Settings 6V TTA for 1979 (2 of 2)
See Figure 12-98 and see Figure 12-99 for the 1982 6V typical torque settings.

Figure 12-98 Typical Torque Settings 6V for 1982 (1 of 2)



See Figure 12-102 and see Figure 12-103 containing the 8V TTA idle droop settings for
automotive engines.

Figure 12-102 Idle Droop Settings 8V TTA (1 of 2)

Figure 12-103 Idle Droop Settings 8V TTA (2 of 2)




12.9.7 Selected Engine Ratings
Listed in Table 12-14 are the 1978 selected engine ratings.

Engine Type Maximum Rated "TT" Rated Engine No-Load Power

Rated BHP Horsepower Speed Speed Reduction
Factor
6V TT - 9290 335 at 2100 RPM 270 * 1800 1950 0.91
Injectors Federal 2275 RPM 270 * 1850 2000 0.89
Certified Maximum 270 1900 2050 0.88
Throttle Delay No-Load Speed 270 1950 2100 0.86
Setting 0.636 270 2100 2250 0.82
260 * 1800 1950 0.88
260 * 1850 2000 0.86
260 1900 2050 0.84
260 1950 2100 0.83
250 * 1800 1950 0.84
250 * 1850 2000 0.83
250 1900 2050 0.81
250 1950 2100 0.80
240 * 1800 1950 0.81
240 * 1850 2000 0.79
240 1900 2050 0.78
240 1950 2100 0.77
6V TT - 9290 335 at 2100 RPM 290 1900 2050 0.94
Injectors Federal 2275 RPM 290 1950 2100 0.93
Certified Maximum
Throttle Delay No-Load Speed
Setting 0.636
6V TTA - 335 at 2100 RPM 270 1900 2050 0.91
9A90 Injectors 2275 RPM 270 1950 2100 0.89
California Maximum 270 2100 2250 0.86
Approved No-Load Speed 260 1900 2050 0.87
Federal Certified 260 1950 2100 0.86
Throttle Delay 250 1900 2250 0.84
Setting 0.636 250 1950 2100 0.83
240 1900 2050 0.81
240 1950 2100 0.79
8V TT - 9290 430 at 2100 RPM 365 1900 2050 0.92
Setting 0.636
8V TT - 430 at 2100 RPM 335 1800 1950 0.87
9A90 Injectors 2275 RPM 335 1850 2000 0.86
Throttle Delay No-Load Speed 335 1950 2100 0.83
Setting 0.570

Engine Type Maximum Rated "TT" Rated Engine No-Load Power

Rated BHP Horsepower Speed Speed Reduction
Factor
8V TTA - 430 at 2100 RPM 365 1900 2050 0.92
9A90 Injectors 2275 RPM 365 1950 2100 0.91
California Maximum 365 2100 2250 0.87
Approved No-Load Speed 335 1800 1950 0.88
Federal Certified 335 1850 2000 0.86
Throttle Delay 335 1900 2050 0.84
Setting 0.636 1950 2100 0.83
8V TTA - 9290 430 at 2100 RPM 365 1900 2050 0.90
Setting 0.636
* Throttle Delay Setting 0.570
Table 12-14 Selected 1978 Engine Ratings

Listed in Table 12-15 are the Federal and California 1979 selected engine ratings, also included
are the Federal 1980 and 1981 ratings.
Engine Type Maximum Rated Rated TT Rated Engine No-Load Speed Power
BHP Horsepower Speed Reduction
Factor
†6V TTA Federal 335 at 2100 RPM 290 2100 2250 0.89
and California 2275 RPM 280 2100 2250 0.86
Engines Maximum 270 2100 2250 0.82
No-Load Speed 290 1950 2100 0.93
280 1950 2100 0.90
270 1950 2100 0.86
260 1950 2100 0.83
250 1950 2100 0.80
240 1950 2100 0.77
290 1900 2050 0.94
280 1900 2050 0.91
270 1900 2050 0.88
260 1900 2050 0.84
250 1900 2050 0.81
240 1900 2050 0.78
290 * 1850 2000 0.96
280 * 1850 2000 0.93
270 * 1850 2000 0.89
260 * 1850 2000 0.86
250 * 1850 2000 0.83
240 * 1850 2000 0.79
307 * 1800 1950 N/A
290 * 1800 1950 0.98
280 * 1800 1950 0.95
270 * 1800 1950 0.91
260 * 1800 1950 0.88
250 * 1800 1950 0.84
240 * 1800 1950 0.81
‡ 8V TTA Federal 435 at 2100 RPM 365 1900 2050 0.92
Engines 2275 RPM 365 1950 2100 0.91
§ 8V TTA Maximum 365 2100 2250 0.87
California No-Load 335 1800 1950 0.88
Engines 430 at 2100 RPM 335 1850 2000 0.86
2275 RPM 335 1900 2050 0.84
Maximum 335 1950 2100 0.83
No-Load
* Used Belleville Spring (Copper Flashed) P/N 5 104535
† 6V TTA Federal and California Engines: Injectors – 9B90, Timing – 1.470, Throttle Delay – 0.370
‡ 8V TTA Federal Engines: Injectors – 9A90, Timing – 1.480, Throttle Delay – 0.636
§ 8V TTA California Engines: Injectors – 9A90, Timing – 1.500, Throttle Delay – 0.660
Table 12-15 Selected 1979 Federal and California Engine Ratings; 1980–1981
Federal — Only

Listed in Table 12-16 are the California 1980 and 1981 selected engine ratings.
Engine Type Maximum Rated Rated TT Rated Engine No-Load Speed Power
BHP Horsepower Speed Reduction
Factor
† 6V TTA 305 at 2100 RPM 270 2100 2250 0.88
California 2275 RPM 270 1950 2100 0.91
No-Load Speed 250 1950 2100 0.84
240 1950 2100 0.81
270 1900 2050 0.92
260 1900 2050 0.89
250 1900 2050 085
240 1900 2050 0.82
270 * 1850 2000 0.93
260 * 1850 2000 0.90
250 * 1850 2000 0.86
240 * 1850 2000 0.83
270 * 1800 1950 0.95
260 * 1800 1950 0.91
250 * 1800 1950 0.88
240 * 1800 1950 0.84
‡ 8V TTA 405 at 2100 RPM 365 1900 2050 0.93
California 2275 RPM 365 1950 2100 0.92
No-Load Speed 335 1800 1950 0.88
335 1850 2000 0.87
335 1900 2050 0.85
335 1950 2100 0.84
* Uses Belleville Spring (Copper Flashed) P/N 5104535
†6V TTA Injector – 9C90, Timing – 1.480, Throttle Delay – 0.660
‡8V TTA Injector – 9C90, Timing – 1.480, Throttle Delay – 0.660
Table 12-16 Selected 1980 and 1981 California Engine Ratings

Listed in Table 12-17 are the Federal and California 1982 selected engine ratings.
Engine Type Maximum Rated Rated TT Rated Engine No-Load Speed Prior Reduction
Horsepower Horsepower Speed Factor
† 6V TTA Federal 330 at 2100 RPM 270 2100 2250 0.83
2275 RPM 270 1950 2100 0.86
Maximum 240 1950 2100 0.76
No-Load Speed 270 1900 2050 0.88
240 1900 2050 0.78
307* 1800 1950 N/A
270 * 1800 1950 0.91
240 * 1800 1950 0.81
‡ 8V TTA Federal 445 at 2100 RPM 365 2100 2250 0.84
2275 RPM 365 1950 2100 0.87
Maximum 335 1950 2100 0.80
No-Load Speed 365 1900 2050 0.89
335 1900 2050 0.82
411 * 1800 1950 N/A
365 * 1800 1950 0.92
335 * 1800 1950 0.82
§ 6V TTA 325 at 2100 RPM 270 2100 2250 0.85
California 2275 RPM 270 1950 2100 0.87
Maximum 240 1950 2100 0.77
No-Load Speed 270 1900 2050 0.89
240 1900 2050 0.79
304 * 1800 1950 N/A
270 * 1800 1950 0.92
240 * 1800 1950 0.82
|| 8V TTA 440 at 2100 RPM 365 2100 2250 0.85
California 2275 RPM 365 1950 2100 0.89
Maximum 335 1950 2100 0.81
No-Load Speed 365 1900 2050 0.91
335 1900 2050 0.83
403 * 1800 1950 N/A
365 * 1800 1950 0.94
335 * 1800 1950 0.87
* Uses Belleville Spring (Copper Flashed) P/N 5104535
† 6V TTA Federal: Injector – 9B90, Timing – 1.470, Throttle Delay – 0.570
‡ 8V TTA Federal: Injector – 9A90, Timing – 1.466, Throttle Delay – 0.636
§ 6V TTA California: Injector – 9F90, Timing – 1.520, Throttle Delay – 0.636
|| 8V TTA California: Injector – 9F90, Timing – 1.520, Throttle Delay – 0.660
Table 12-17 Selected 1982 Federal and California Engine Ratings

Engine Type Settings Rated TT Rated Engine No-Load Speed Power

and Maximum Horsepower Speed (RPM) (RPM) Reduction
Rated BHP Factor
6V TTA Federal Injector: 9B90 270 (B) 2100 2225 0.83
330 at 2100 Timing: 1.464 270 (B) 1950 2075 0.86
RPM (B) Throttle Delay: 240 (B) 1950 2075 0.76
2275 RPM 0.636 (A) 0.610 270 (B) 1900 2025 0.88
Maximum (B) 240 (B) 1900 2025 0.78
No-Load Speed Modulator 307 (A) * 1800 1925 N/A
Setting 0.480 270 (A) * 1800 1925 0.91
240 (A) * 1800 1925 0.81
8V TTA Federal Injector: 9A90 365 2100 2225 0.84
445 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.460 365 1950 2075 0.87
2275 RPM Throttle Delay: 411 * 1950 2075 0.80
Maximum 0.594 365 1900 2025 0.89
No-Load Speed Modulator 335 1900 2025 0.82
Setting 0.480 411 * 1800 1925 N/A
365 * 1800 1925 0.92
335 * 1800 1925 0.85
6V TTA Injector: 9F90 270 2100 2225 0.85
California Timing: 1.520 270 1950 2075 0.87
325 at 2100 RPM Throttle Delay: 240 1950 2075 0.77
2275 RPM 0.636 270 1900 2025 0.89
Maximum Modulator 240 1900 2025 0.79
No-Load Speed Setting 0.480 304 * 1800 1925 N/A
270 * 1800 1925 0.92
240 * 1800 1925 0.82
8V TTA Injector: 9F90 365 2100 2225 0.85
California Timing: 1.515 365 1950 2075 0.89
440 at 2100 RPM Throttle Delay: 335 1950 2075 0.81
2275 RPM 0.660 365 1900 2025 0.91
Maximum Modulator 335 1900 2025 0.83
No-Load Speed Setting 0.490 403 * 1800 1925 N/A
365 * 1800 1925 0.94
335 * 1800 1925 0.87
* Uses Belleville Spring (Washer) 5104535 (Copper Flashed).


Rated BHP Factor
6V TA Injector: 9B90 270 1800 1950 0.91
330 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.475 270 2100 2250 0.83
Throttle Delay:
0.636
Modulator
Setting: 0.465
6V TAC Injector: 9F90 270 1800 1950 0.92
325 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.520 270 2100 2250 0.84
Throttle Delay:
DNA
Modulator
Setting: 0.490
8V TA Injector: 9A90 365 1950 2100 0.87
445 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.470 365 2100 2250 0.84
Throttle Delay:
0.594
Modulator
Setting: 0.404
8V TAC Injector: 9F90 365 1950 2100 0.89
440 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.520 365 2100 2250 0.85
Throttle Delay:
0.660
Modulator
Setting: 0.490
Listed in Table 12-20 are the Federal 1985 selected engine ratings.

Rated BHP Factor
6V TA Injector: 9G85 270 1800 1925 0.91
300 at 1800 RPM Timing: 1.466 270 2100 2250 0.83
Throttle Delay:
DNA
Modulator
Setting: 0.465
Table 12-20 Selected 1985 Federal Engine Ratings

Listed in Table 12-21 are the Federal and California 1985 and 1986 selected engine ratings.

Rated BHP Factor
6V TA Injector: 9G90 300 2100 2250 0.88
350 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.466
Throttle Delay:
0.636
Modulator
Setting: 0.480
6V TA Injector: 9G90 270 1800 1950 0.93
300 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.470 270 2100 2250 0.86
Throttle Delay:
0.570
Modulator
Setting: DNA
6V TAC Injector: 9F90 300 2100 2250 0.90
340 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.520 270 2100 2250 0.81
Throttle Delay:
0.660
Modulator
Setting: 0.490
8V TA Injector: 9G90 400 2100 2250 0.87
475 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.458 400 1800 1950 0.87
Throttle Delay:
0.610
Modulator
Setting: 0.454
8V TAC Injector: 9F90 400 2100 2250 0.91
450 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.520
Throttle Delay:
0.660
Modulator
Setting: 0.490
Table 12-21 Selected 1985 and 1986 Federal and California Engine Ratings
Listed in Table 12-22 are the Federal 1986 selected engine ratings.

Rated BHP Factor
8V TA Injector: 9G90 400 2100 2250 0.97
475 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.475
Throttle Delay:
0.570
Modulator
Setting: 0.404
Table 12-22 Selected 1986 Federal Engine Ratings


Rated BHP Factor
6V TA Injector: 9G85 270 1800 1925 0.91
300 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.466 270 2100 2250 0.83
Throttle Delay:
DNA
Modulator
Setting: 0.465
6V TA Injector: 9G90 300 2100 2250 0.87
350 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.466
Throttle Delay:
0.636
Modulator
Setting: 0.480
6V TAC Injector: 9F90 270 1800 1925 0.90
340 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.520 300 2100 2250 0.81
Throttle Delay: 270 2100 2250 0.90
0.660
Modulator
Setting: 0.490
8V TA Injector: 9G90 400 2100 2250 0.97
475 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.475
Throttle Delay:
0.570
Modulator
Setting: 0.404
8V TAC Injector: 9F90 400 2100 2250 0.90
450 at 2100 RPM Timing: 1.520
Throttle Delay:
0.660
Modulator
Setting: 0.490


The 6V and 8V single-weight variable speed governor is mounted at the front of the engine and
is driven by a blower rotor.
After adjusting the exhaust valves and timing the fuel injectors, adjust the variable speed
mechanical governor, and position the injector rack control levers.
Before proceeding with the governor and injector rack adjustments, disconnect any supplementary
governing device. After the adjustments are completed, reconnect and adjust the supplementary
governing device.
12.10.1 Adjustment of Governor Gap
With the engine stopped and at normal operating temperature, adjust the 6V and 8V governor
gap as follows:
1. Disconnect any linkage attached to the governor levers.
3. Clean and remove the governor cover and valve rocker covers. Discard the gaskets.
4. Place the speed control lever in the maximum speed position.

12.10 VARIABLE SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR INJECTOR RACK CONTROL ADJUSTMENT (6V
AND 8V ENGINES)
5. Insert a 0.1524 mm (0.006 in.) feeler gage between the spring plunger and the plunger
1. Governor Spring 3. Gap Adjusting Screw

2. Feeler Gage 4. Spring Plunger
6. If required, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw until it slightly drags.
8. Check the gap again and, if necessary, readjust.
9. Affix a new gasket on the top of the governor housing.
10. Place the governor cover assembly on the governor housing with the throttle control
shaft assembly pin in the differential lever slot and the housing dowel pins in the cover
dowel pin holes.

11. Tighten the screws.
The position of the injector rack control levers must be correctly set in relation to the governor.
Their position determines the amount of fuel injected into each cylinder and ensures equal load
distribution.
The engines use spring-loaded injector control tube assemblies which have a yield spring at
each injector rack control lever with one screw and locknut to keep each injector rack properly
positioned.
1. Properly positioned injector rack control levers, with the engine at full load, will result in
the following:
□ Speed control lever at the maximum speed position.
□ Stop lever in the run position.
□ High-speed spring plunger within 0.127–0.1778 mm (0.005–0.007 in.) of its seat in
the governor control housing.
□ Injector fuel control racks in the full fuel position.
The letters "R" and "L" indicate the injector location in the right or left cylinder bank,
the engine on each cylinder bank. Adjust the No. 1L injector rack control lever first to
establish a guide for adjusting the remaining control levers.
Adjust the levers as follows:
lever.
3. Loosen all adjusting screws and locknuts on both injector control tubes.
NOTE:
Ensure all injector rack control levers are free on the injector control tubes.

5. Move the stop lever to the run position, and hold it with your finger.
NOTICE:

AND 8V ENGINES)
NOTICE:
tube. The recommended torque for the adjusting screw is 3-4
N·m (24-36 lb·in.).
6. Tighten the No. 1L injector rack control lever adjusting screw until it rolls up or an
increase in effort to turn the screwdriver is noted. See Figure 12-109.
1. Outer Adjusting Screw 4. Stop Lever

2. Inner Adjusting Screw 5. Locknut
3. Speed Control Lever 6. Adjusting Screw
Figure 12-109 Positioning No. 1 Injector Rack Control Lever

7. Tighten the screw approximately 1/8 turn, and lock securely with the adjusting screw
locknut.
NOTE:
This will place the No. 1L injector rack in the full fuel position - the same position it
would attain at full load.
8. Verify rack adjustment. Refer to section 12.4.10 and refer to section 12.10.3.
10. Insert the clevis pin in the fuel rod and the right cylinder bank injector control tube lever,
and position the No. 1R injector rack control lever. Refer to step 4 through step 7.
12. Verify the No. 1L and No. 1R adjustment. Refer to section 12.4.10.
13. Carefully observe and eliminate any defection which occurs at the bend in the fuel rod
where it enters the cylinder head.Adjust the remaining injector rack control levers as
follows:
14. Remove the clevis pins from the fuel rods and the injector rack control tube levers.
15. Hold the injector control racks in the full fuel position with the lever on the end of the
control tube.
NOTICE:
screws during installation or adjustment can damage to the
injector control tube. The recommended torque is 3-4 N·m
(24-36 lb·in.)
18. Verify injector rack adjustment. Refer to section 12.4.10.
19. If No. 1L does not "spring" back upward, turn the No. 2L adjusting screw until the No.
1L injector rack returns to its full fuel position.
21. Verify proper injector rack adjustment for both No. 1L and NO. 2L injectors.
No. 1L and No. 2L injector racks are in the full fuel position when the locknut is securely
tightened.

AND 8V ENGINES)
23. Adjust the remaining injector. Refer to step 5 through step 9.
NOTE:
Always verify proper injector rack adjustment.
NOTE:
24. When all injector rack control levers are adjusted, check their settings.
25. With the control tube lever in the full fuel position, check each control rack.
NOTE:
All control racks must "spring" with the control tube lever in the full fuel position.
26. Insert the clevis pins in the fuel rods and the injector control tube levers.
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
12.10.3 Check Rack Adjustment
Verify rack adjustment as follows:

1. Hold the stop lever in the run position, and press down on the injector rack with a
screwdriver or finger tip.

2. Observe the "rotating" movement of the injector control rack when the stop lever is in the
run position. See Figure 12-110.

AND 8V ENGINES)
3. Hold the stop lever in the run position, and using a screwdriver, press downward on
the injector control rack.
NOTE:
The rack should tilt downward. When the screwdriver is removed, the control rack
should "spring" back up. See Figure 12-111. If the rack does not return to its original
position, it is too loose.
4. To correct a loose rack, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw clockwise.
Tighten the locknut.
NOTE:
When moving the stop lever from the stop to the rung position the injector rack becomes
tight before the stop lever reaches the end of its travel, the rack is too tight.
5. To correct a tight rack, loosen the locknut, and turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise.
Tighten the locknut.
12.10.4 Adjust Maximum No Load Speed
All governors are properly adjusted before leaving the factory. If the governor has been
reconditioned or replaced, set the maximum no load speed. This ensures the engine speed will
not exceed the recommended no load speed.

Start the engine, and after it reaches normal operating temperature, determine the maximum
engine no load speed with an accurate hand tachometer. Stop the engine, and make the following
adjustments, if required:
1. Disconnect the booster spring and the governor stop lever spring.
2. Remove the variable speed spring housing and the spring retainer, located inside the
housing, from the governor housing.
3. Determine the stop or shims required for the desired full load speed. Stops and shim
requirements are listed in Table 12-24.
Full-Load Speed * Stops Shims

11200 - 1750 2
Up to 8.26 mm (0.325 in.) in
1750 - 2100 1
Shims Maximum
2100 - 2300 0
* No-load is 150–200 RPM above full-load speed depending on engine application.
Table 12-24 Stops and Shims Required
NOTE:
The speed will increase approximately 1 RPM for each 0.001 in. shim added.
4. Install the variable speed spring retainer and housing, and tighten the two bolts.
5. Connect the booster spring.
6. Start the engine, and check the maximum no load speed.
7. If required, add or remove shims to obtain the necessary operating speed.
8. If the maximum no load speed is raised or lowered more than 50 RPM with the installation
or removal of shims, check the governor gap.
9. If the governor gap must be adjusted, check the position of the injector racks.
NOTE:
Governor stops are used to limit the compression of the governor spring, which
determines the maximum engine speed.
With the maximum no load speed properly set, adjust the idle speed as follows:
1. Place the speed control lever in the idle position and the stop lever in the run position.
2. With the engine running at normal operating temperature, back out the buffer screw to
avoid contact with the differential lever.

AND 8V ENGINES)
3. Loosen the locknut, and turn the idle speed adjusting screw until the engine is operating at
approximately 15 RPM below the recommended idle speed. See Figure 12-112.
NOTE:
The recommended idle speed is 500 RPM, but may vary with special engine applications.
1. Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
Figure 12-112 Adjusting Idle Speed
4. Hold the idle speed adjusting screw, and tighten the locknut.
Adjust the buffer screw as follows:

1. With the engine running at normal operating temperature, turn the buffer screw in so that
it lightly contacts the differential lever and still eliminates engine roll. See Figure 12-113.
NOTE:
Do not raise the engine idle speed more than 15 RPM with the buffer screw.
1. Buffer Screw
12.10.7 Adjust Booster Spring
With the idle speed adjusted, adjust the booster spring as follows:
1. Move the speed control lever to the idle speed position.

AND 8V ENGINES)
2. Loosen the booster spring retaining nut on the speed control lever. See Figure 12-114.
1. Booster Spring 2. Booster Spring Adjusting Eye Bolt
Figure 12-114 Adjusting Booster Spring
3. Loosen the locknuts on the eyebolt at the opposite end of the booster spring.
4. With the speed control lever in the idle position, move the bolt in the slot of the speed
control lever until the center of the bolt is on or slightly over center (toward the idle speed
position) of an imaginary line through the bolt, lever shaft, and eyebolt.
5. Hold the bolt from turning, and tighten the locknut.
6. Start the engine, and move the speed control lever to the maximum speed position.
Release it.
7. If the lever does not return to the idle speed position, reduce the booster spring tension.

8. If the speed control lever returns to the idle speed position, continue to increase the spring
tension until it does not return to idle.
9. Reduce the spring tension until it returns to idle.
10. Tighten the locknut on the eyebolt.
NOTE:
This setting will result in the minimum force required to operate the speed control lever.
11. Connect the linkage to the governor levers.

12.11 VARIABLE SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR AND INJECTOR RACK CONTROL ADJUSTMENT

An improved throttle control mechanism has been released to ease control lever movement on
marine engine model 8122-7400. This mechanism reduces the effort required to move the throttle
lever, permitting more uniform movement of the lever through the entire throttle range.
The improved mechanism is similar to the former, except that it includes a lighter tension booster
spring, a shorter, stiffer bracket, and a longer eyebolt (4.75 in. instead of 4.0 in.).
The new parts are installed in the same location as the former parts, except for the bracket.
This is mounted on the rear of the left-bank cylinder head with two bolts and lock washers.
See Figure 12-115.
1. New Bracket 2. Old Bracket
Figure 12-115 Improved Throttle Control Mechanism and Location

DDC recommends replacing the former throttle control mechanism parts on marine model
8122-7400 with the new parts whenever practical. Former parts will be retained for other
applications.
12.11.1 Position Control Link Levers
The governor on the 12V and 16V engines is mounted on and driven from the front end of the rear
blower. See Figure 12-116.
1. Auxiliary Control Link Housing 4. Rear Blower

2. Shutdown Lever 5. Speed Control Lever
3. Booster Spring 6. Governor
Figure 12-116 Improved Throttle Control Mechanism and Location
After adjusting the exhaust valves and timing the fuel injectors, adjust the governor and injector
rack control levers.

If the engine or governor has been overhauled, or the injector control linkage has been disturbed,
the control link levers in the governor housing and auxiliary control link housing must be aligned
before proceeding with the engine tune-up. See Figure 12-117, and position the control link
levers as follows:
1. Auxiliary Control Link Housing 4. Governor Operating Lever Control Link

2. Control Lever Link 5. Adjustable Link
3. Fuel Rod 6. Connecting Link
Figure 12-117 Governor Mounting
1. Disconnect the linkage to the governor speed control and stop levers.
2. Remove the covers from the governor housing and auxiliary control link housing.
3. Disconnect the adjustable link from the lever in the auxiliary control link housing.
4. Remove the connecting pin from the auxiliary governor control link lever.

5. Install gage J 21779 so it extends through the lever and fuel rod and into the gage hole in
the bottom of the housing.
NOTE:
With the gage in place, the auxiliary control link lever will be in the mid-travel position.
6. Remove the connecting pin from the control link lever in the governor housing and install
gage J 21780.
7. Install the gage so the pin extends through the connecting link, control lever, and fuel rod,
and the governor housing dowel pin extends into the small hole in the gage.

8. Install a governor cover bolt to lock the gage in place. See Figure 12-118.
NOTE:
With gage J 21780 in place, the governor control link lever will be in the mid-travel
position and parallel to the auxiliary control link lever.
1. Auxiliary Control Link Housing 4. Governor Operating Lever Control Link

2. Control Lever Link 5. Adjustable Link
3. Fuel Rod 6. Connecting Link
Figure 12-118 Positioning Control Link Levers
9. Adjust the length of the adjustable connecting link to retain the lever positions, and install
the link.
10. Remove gages J 21779 and J 21780, and reinstall the control link lever connecting pins.
11. Install the governor housing and auxiliary control link housing covers.

12.11.2 Adjust Governor Gap
With engine stopped and at normal operating temperature, adjust the governor gap as follows:
1. Clean and remove the governor cover and the valve rocker covers. Discard the gaskets.
2. Back out the buffer screw until it extends approximately 15.88 mm (0.625 in.) from
the locknut.
3. Place the speed control lever in the maximum speed position.
4. Insert a 0.1524 mm (0.006 in.) feeler gage between the spring plunger and the plunger
1. Governor Spring 3. Gap Adjusting Screw

2. Feeler Gage 4. Spring Plunger

5. If required, loosen the locknut, and turn the adjusting screw until it drags slight.
7. Check the gap, and readjust if necessary.
8. Affix a new gasket to the top of the governor housing.
9. Place the governor cover assembly on the governor housing with the pin in the throttle
control shaft assembly in the slot of the differential lever and the dowel pins in the cover.
Tighten the screws.
The position of the injector rack control levers must be correctly set in relation to the governor.
Their position determines the amount of fuel injected into each cylinder and ensures equal
distribution of the load.
The engines are spring-loaded injector control tube assemblies which have a yield spring at
each injector rack control lever with one screw and locknut to keep each injector rack properly
positioned.
following:
2. Stop lever in the run position.
3. High-speed spring plunger within 0.127–0.1778 mm (0.005–0.007 in.) of its seat in the
governor control housing.
4. Injector fuel control racks in the full fuel position.The letters "R" and "L" indicate the
injector location on the right or left cylinder bank, viewed from the rear of the engine.
Cylinders are numbered starting at the front of the engine on each cylinder bank. Adjust
the No. 4R injector rack control lever first to establish a guide for adjusting the remaining
right bank injector rack control levers.
12.11.4 Adjustment of Control Levers
Adjust the control levers as follows:

1. Remove the clevis pins which attach the right rear bank and both left-bank fuel rods to
2. Loosen all adjusting screws and locknuts on both injector control tubes.
NOTE:

4. Move the stop lever to the run position, and hold it in that position with your finger.
See Figure 12-120.
1. Injector Control Tube 4. Fuel Rod

2. Outer Adjusting Screw 5. Stop Lever
Figure 12-120 Positioning No. 4R Injector Rack Control Lever

NOTICE:
tube. The recommended torque of the adjusting screws is 3-4
N·m (24-36 lb·in).
is noted.
screw locknut.
NOTE:
This will place the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack in the full fuel position.
The governor linkage and control tube assembly should be in the same position that they
will attain while the engine is running at full load.
8. Adjust the No. 5R (16V) or No. 4R (12V) injector rack. Refer to step 4 through step6.
9. Verify rack adjustment. refer to section 12.4.10 and refer to section 12.10.3.
10. Adjustment of the No. 4L and 5L (16V) or No. 3L and 4L (12V) injector racks.
NOTE:
injectors are in the full fuel position.
11. With the fuel rod disconnected from the injector control tube lever, adjust the remaining
injector rack control levers on the right front bank.
12. Hold the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack in the full fuel position with the
control tube lever.
NOTICE:
tube. The recommended torque of the adjusting screws is 3-4
N·m (24-36 lb·in.).
is noted.


15. Verify the injector rack adjustment of No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V). Refer to section
12.4.10 and refer to section 12.10.3.
16. If No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) does not "spring" back upward, turn the No. 3R (16V) or
No. 2R (12V) adjusting screw counterclockwise slightly until the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R
(12V) injector rack returns to its full fuel position, and secure the adjusting screw locknut.
17. Verify proper injector rack adjustment for both No. 4R and No. 3R (16V) or No. 3R and
No. 2R (12V) injectors.
NOTE:
When the settings are correct, both injector racks must respond in the same manner on
the ball ends of the control levers when the injector control tube lever is held in the full
fuel position.
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
NOTICE:
Before starting an engine after an engine speed control
adjustment or after the engine governor cover and lever
assembly removal, ensure the injector racks return to the no
fuel position when the governor stop lever is placed in the
stop position. Engine overspeed will result if the injector racks
cannot be positioned at no fuel with the governor stop lever. An
overspeeding engine can cause engine damage.

12.11.5 Check Rack Adjustment
1. In order to ensure proper rack adjustment, hold the stop lever in the run position, and press
down on the injector rack with a screwdriver or finger tip.
2. Note the "rotating" movement of the injector control rack when the stop lever is in the
run position. See Figure 12-121.
3. Hold the stop lever in the run position and, using a screwdriver, press downward on
the injector control rack.
NOTE:
The rack should tilt downward, and when the pressure of the screwdriver is released, the
control rack should "spring" back upward. See Figure 12-122.
NOTE:
If the rack does not return to its original position, it is too loose. The setting is too tight if
when moving the stop lever from the stop to the run position, the injector rack becomes

tight before the stop lever reaches the end of its travel. This will result in a step-up in
effort required to move the stop lever to the end of its travel.
4. To correct a loose rack, loosen the locknut, and turn the adjusting screw clockwise slightly.
6. To correct a tight rack, loosen the locknut, and turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise
slightly.
All governors are properly adjusted before leaving the factory. However, if the governor has been
reconditioned or replaced, and to ensure the engine speed will not exceed the recommended no
load speed as given on the engine option plate, set the maximum no load speed as follows:
1. Start the engine, and after it reaches normal operating temperature, determine the
maximum no load speed of the engine with an accurate hand tachometer.
2. Stop the engine.
3. Disconnect the booster spring and governor stop lever.
4. Remove the variable speed spring housing and the variable speed spring plunger from the
governor housing.

5. Listed in Table 12-25, and determine the stops or shims required for the desired full
load speed.
Full-Load Speed * Stops Shims

1200 - 1750 2
Up to 8.26 mm (0.325 in.) in
1750 - 2100 1
Shims Maximum
2100 - 2300 0
* No-load is 150–225 RPM above full-load speed depending on engine application.
Table 12-25 Stops and Shims Required
NOTE:
The speed will increase approximately 1 RPM for each 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) in shims
added.
6. Install the variable speed spring plunger and housing, and tighten the two bolts.
7. Connect the booster spring.
8. Start the engine, and check the maximum no load speed.
9. If required, add or remove shims to obtain the desired full load speed.
10. If the maximum no load speed is raised or lowered more than 50 RPM with shim
installation or removal, check the governor gap.
11. If governor gap adjustment is required, the position of the injector racks must be rechecked.
NOTE:
Governor stops are used to limit the governor spring compression, which determines the
maximum speed of the engine.
With the maximum no load speed properly set, adjust the idle speed as follows:
1. Place the speed control lever in the idle position and the stop lever in the run position.
2. With the engine running at normal operating temperature, back out the buffer screw to
avoid contact with the differential lever.

3. Loosen the locknut and turn the idle speed adjusting screw until the engine is operating at
approximately 15 RPM below the recommended idle speed. See Figure 12-123.
NOTE:
The recommended idle speed is 550 RPM, but may vary with special engine applications.
1. Governor Assembly 2. Idle Speed Adjusting Screw
Figure 12-123 Adjusting Idle Speed
4. Hold the idle speed adjusting screw from turning, and tighten the locknut.
Adjust the buffer screw as follows:

1. With the engine running at normal operating temperature, turn the buffer screw IN so it
contacts the differential lever lightly and eliminates engine roll. See Figure 12-124.
NOTE:
Do not raise the idle speed more than 15 RPM with the buffer screw.
1. Governor Assembly 3. Buffer Screw

2. Locking Nut
2. Hold the buffer screw from turning, and tighten the locknut.
12.11.9 Adjust Booster Spring
With the idle speed set, adjust the booster spring as follows:
1. Move the speed control lever to the idle speed position.

2. See Figure 12-125, and loosen the nut on the booster spring retaining bolt on the governor
speed control lever.
1. Governor 3. Eye Bolt

2. Booster Spring
Figure 12-125 Adjusting Booster Spring
3. Loosen the locknuts on the eyebolt at the opposite end of the spring.
4. Move the bolt in the slot of the speed control lever until the center of the bolt is on or
slightly over center (toward the idle speed position) of an imaginary line through the bolt,
lever shaft and eyebolt.
5. Hold the bolt, and tighten the locknut.
6. Start the engine, and move the speed control lever to the maximum speed position.
Release it.
NOTE:
The speed control lever should return to the idle speed position.
7. If the speed control lever does not return to the idle speed position, reduce the spring
tension.
8. If the lever does return to the idle position, increase the spring tension until the lever
will not return to idle.

9. Reduce the spring tension until the lever will return to idle, and tighten the locknut on
the eyebolt.
NOTE:
This setting will result in a minimum force required to operate the speed control lever.
10. Connect the linkage to the governor levers.


After adjusting the exhaust valves and timing the fuel injectors, adjust the governor linkage and
position the injector rack control levers. See Figure 12-126.
1. Bell Crank 5. Load Limit Adjusting Screw

2. Vertical Link 6. Maximum Speed Adjusting Screw
3. Governor Operating Lever 7. Speed Control Lever
4. Governor
Figure 12-126 Hydraulic Governor Mounted on Engine

12.12 SG VARIABLE SPEED HYDRAULIC GOVERNOR INJECTOR RACK CONTROL ADJUSTMENT (6V
AND 8V ENGINES)
12.12.1 Position Injector Rack Control Levers and Adjust Governor

Linkage
The position of the injector racks must be correctly set in relation to the governor. Their positions
determine the amount of fuel injected into each cylinder and ensures equal load distribution.
Position the injector rack control levers and adjust governor linkage as follows:
1. Clean and remove the valve rocker cover from each cylinder head. Discard the gaskets.
2. Loosen all the adjusting screws and locknuts.
NOTE:
Ensure all control levers are free on the control tubes.
3. Disconnect the vertical link assembly from the governor operating lever and the bell crank.
4. Loosen the bolt, and slide the governor operating lever from the serrated shaft.

5. Place the bolt through the bell crank and into the recessed hole in the drive housing.
See Figure 12-127.
1. Inner Adjusting Screw 3. Bolt

2. Bell Crank Lever 4. Outer Adjusting Screw
Figure 12-127 Positioning No. 1R Injector Rack Control Lever
NOTICE:
To avoid bending the fuel rod, do not set the racks too tightly.
6. To adjust the No. 1R injector rack, tighten the adjusting screw until the injector rack clevis
rolls up or an increase in effort to turn the screwdriver is noted.

AND 8V ENGINES)
7. Tighten the screw approximately 1/8 turn more, and lock securely with the adjusting
screw locknut.
NOTE:
This will place the No. 1R injector rack in the full fuel position.
8. Adjust the No. 1L injector rack control lever. Refer to step 6 and step 7.
10. To adjust the remaining injector rack control levers, hold the No. 1L injector rack in the
full-fuel position with the lever on the end of the control tube assembly.
NOTICE:
screws during installation or adjustment can cause injector
control tube damage. The recommended torque is 3-4 N·m
(24-36 lb·ft).
11. Tighten the No. 2L injector rack control lever adjusting screw until the injector rolls up or
an increase in effort to turn the screwdriver is observed.
13. Verify injector rack adjustment. Refer to section 12.12.2.
15. Check that the No. 1L injector rack has remained snug on the ball end of the injector rack
control lever while positioning the No. 2L injector rack.
16. If the No. 1L injector rack has become loose, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting
screw clockwise slightly.
NOTE:
When the settings are correct, both injector racks must respond in the same manner on
the ball end of their respective rack control levers.
18. Position the remaining injector rack control levers on the left and right cylinder heads.
Refer to step 14 and step 15.
NOTE:
When the settings are correct, all injector racks will be snug on the ball end of the control
levers when the injector control tube lever is held in the full fuel position.

19. Replace the governor operating lever on the serrated shaft so that the bolt hole is lined up
within the proper lines on the linkage gage. See Figure 12-128.
NOTE:
The governor type will determine the proper lever position.
1. Linkage Gage 3. Governor Operating Lever

2. Governor Assembly
Figure 12-128 Positioning Governor Operating Lever
20. Remove the gage.

21. Move the bell crank lever to the no fuel position.

AND 8V ENGINES)
22. Adjust the length of the vertical link so the lever bolt holes and the center of the rod
end bearings line up. See Figure 12-129.
1. Bell Crank Lever 3. Vertical Link

2. Governor Operating Lever
Figure 12-129 Adjusting Vertical Link
23. Replace the two bolts in the levers, and tighten the bolts.
24. Remove the governor cover.

25. With the load limit screw completely backed out, retain the governor operating lever
in the full fuel position.
NOTE:
The governor terminal lever should touch the boss in the governor housing. See Figure
12-130.
1. Governor Operating Lever 3. Load Limit Screw

2. Terminal Lever
Figure 12-130 Adjusting Load Limit Screw
26. Adjust the vertical link so all injector racks are in the full fuel position.
27. Tighten the rod end locknuts securely.
28. Use a new gasket, and install the valve rocker cover on each cylinder head.

AND 8V ENGINES)
12.12.2 Check Injector Rack Adjustment
Verify rack control lever adjustment as follows:

1. Press down on the injector rack with a screwdriver or finger tip. See Figure 12-131.
NOTE:
Light pressure should rotate the rack. The rack is sufficiently tightened if it returns or
"springs" back to its original position when the pressure is removed. The rack is too tight
if a heavy pressure is required to rotate the rack.
2. Check the No. 1R and 1L injector rack control lever.
NOTE:
If the setting is correct, the injector racks will be in the full-fuel position and snug on
the ball end of the control levers.
3. If the No. 1L does not "spring" up, turn the No. 2L adjusting screw counterclockwise until
the No. 1L injector rack returns to its full fuel position.
5. Turn the No. 2L injector rack clockwise or counterclockwise until both the No. 1L and
No. 2L injector racks are in the full fuel position.

12.12.3 Adjust Load Limit
The load limit is set at the factory and adjustment is unnecessary. If the governor has had major
repairs or the injector rack control levers have been repositioned, the load limit screw should be
adjusted. With the injector rack control levers properly adjusted, set the load limit as follows:
1. Loosen the load limit screw locknut, and adjust the load limit screw to obtain a distance of
approximately 51 mm (2 in.) from the outside face of the boss on the governor subcap
to the end of the screw.
2. Place and retain the governor operating lever in the full fuel position. See Figure 12-132.
NOTE:
Do not overstress the linkage.
1. Governor Operating Lever 3. Load Limit Screw

2. Terminal Lever

AND 8V ENGINES)
3. Turn the load limit adjusting screw until a 0.51 mm (0.020 in.) space exists between
the fuel rod collar and the terminal lever.
NOTE:
If the adjustment cannot be made with a feeler gage, turn the load limit adjusting screw
(with the locknut tight enough to eliminate slack in the threads) inward until the injector
racks loosen on the ball end of the control levers.
4. Release the governor operating lever, and hold the adjusting screw while tightening the
locknut.
5. Install the governor cover, and tighten the screws.
12.12.4 Compensation Needle Valve Adjustment (PSG Governor)
Adjust the governor compensation needle valve as follows:

1. Start the engine, and run until it reaches normal operating temperature.
NOTE:
Ensure the engine is running with no load.

2. Open the compensation needle valve two or three turns, and allow the engine to "hunt"
or "surge" for approximately 1/2 minute to bleed any air which may be trapped in the
governor oil passages. See Figure 12-133.
1. Maximum Speed Adjustment Screw 5. Synchronous Motor

2. Load Limit Adjustment Screw 6. Droop Adjusting Screw
3. Minimum Droop Setting Screw 7. Maximum Droop Setting Screw
4. Friction Drive 8. Compensation Needle Valve
Figure 12-133 Typical Synchronous Motor Mounting
3. Gradually close the valve until the "hunting" just stops.

4. Close the valve completely, and note the number of turns required to close it.
5. Open the valve to the previous position at which the "hunting" stopped.

AND 8V ENGINES)
6. Manually disturb the engine speed to test the governor action.
NOTE:
The engine should promptly return to the original steady speed with only a small
overshoot. The correct valve setting will be between 1/8 and 1/2 turn open. Closing the
valve further than necessary will slow the governor in returning the engine to normal
speed after a load change.
12.12.5 Adjust Internal Governor Speed Droop
Adjusting the speed droop establishes a definite engine speed at no load with a given speed at
rated full load.
The governor speed droop is set at the factory and further adjustment is unnecessary. If the
governor has been overhauled, the speed droop must be adjusted.
The best method for determining the engine speed is using an accurate hand tachometer.
If a full rated load can be established on the unit, and the fuel rods, injector rack control levers,
and the load limit have been adjusted, set the speed droop as follows:
1. Start the engine, and run it at approximately one-half the rated no load speed until the
lubricating oil temperature stabilizes.
NOTE:
When the engine lubricating oil is cold, the governor regulation may be erratic.
Regulation will become stable as the oil temperature increases.
2. Stop the engine, and remove the governor cover.

3. Loosen the locknut, and back off the maximum speed adjusting screw 15.88 mm
(0.625 in.).
4. Loosen the screw, and move the bracket so the screw is midway between the ends of the
slot in the bracket.

5. Tighten the screw. See Figure 12-134.
1. Speed Droop Screw 2. Governor Assembly
Figure 12-134 Adjusting Speed Droop Screw
6. With the throttle in the run position, adjust the engine speed until the engine is operating a
3 to 5% above the recommended full load speed.
7. Apply the full rated load on the engine, and adjust the engine speed to the correct full
load speed.
8. Remove the rated load, and note the engine speed after the speed stabilizes under no load.
NOTE:
If the speed droop is correct, the engine speed will be approximately 3 to 5% higher
than the full load speed.
NOTE:
If the speed droop is too high move the adjusting bracket toward the center of the
governor. If the speed droop is too low, move the adjusting bracket away from the
center of the governor.
9. To adjust the speed droop, stop the engine, loosen the droop adjusting screw, and move
the adjusting bracket toward the center of the governor or away from the center of the
governor.

AND 8V ENGINES)
NOTE:
The speed droop in governors which control parallel generator engines must be identical,
otherwise the electrical load will not be equally divided.
11. Adjust the speed droop bracket in each governor to obtain the desired variation between
engine no load and full load speeds.
NOTE:
The recommended speed droop for generator sets operating in parallel is 50 RPM (2-2
1/2 cycles) for units operating at 1,000 and 1,200 RPM, 75 RPM (2-2 1/2 cycles) for units
operating at 1,500 and 1,800 RPM. Recommended speed droop is listed in Table 12-26.
The speed droop recommendation may be varied to suit the individual application.
Full Load No Load

50 Cycles, 1000 RPM 52.5 Cycles, 1050 RPM
Table 12-26 Recommended Speed Droop
12. Install the governor cover.

12.12.6 Adjust External Governor Speed Droop
Some PSG type governors are equipped with an external adjustable droop control. See Figure
12-135. This permits the speed droop to be adjusted without removing the governor cover. With
this feature, a unit can be paralleled with another unit that is operating at constant frequency
(zero droop).
1. Slider 4. Droop Adjusting Knob

2. Load Limit Adjusting Screw 5. Maximum Droop Setting Screw
3. Minimum Droop Setting Screw 6. Slider Arm
Figure 12-135 External Droop Control on PSG Isochronous Governor
The incoming unit must have its droop bracket set in the maximum position while it is paralleled
and while operating in parallel as follows:
1. When stopping the unit at constant frequency, shift the load to the incoming unit, and
move the governor droop bracket to zero droop.

AND 8V ENGINES)
2. Adjust the outgoing unit to maximum droop.

3. Remove the outgoing unit from the line
4. Stop the engine.
NOTE:
The incoming unit will now carry the load and operate at constant frequency (zero droop).
Adjust the governor speed droop as follows:

5. Start the engine, and run it at approximately 1/2 rated full load speed until the lubricating
oil temperature stabilizes.
6. Remove the load from the engine.
7. Back off the compensation needle valve to release any air that may be trapped in the
system.
8. Turn the needle valve in slowly to reduce governor "hunting".
NOTE:
The correct needle valve setting will be between 1/8 and 1/2 turn open.
9. Back out the minimum and maximum droop setting screws.

10. Loosen the droop adjusting knob, and move the slide all the way in toward the center of
the governor.
11. Tighten the knob.

12. Loosen the locknut on the maximum speed adjusting screw, and turn the screw out until
15.88 mm (0.625 in.) of the threads are exposed. See Figure 12-136.
1. Governor Assembly 2. Maximum Speed Adjusting Screw
Figure 12-136 Adjusting Maximum No-Load Engine Speed
13. With the engine operating at the recommended full load speed, apply the full rated load,
and check the engine speed.
14. If necessary, adjust the engine to full load speed.
15. Remove the load, and note the engine speed.
NOTE:
If the zero droop setting is correct, the engine speed will remain constant.
16. If the engine speed is higher, loosen the droop adjusting knob, and set the slider to a
reduced droop position.
17. When the desired minimum droop setting is reached, loosen the locknut, and turn the
minimum droop setting screw inward until it contacts the droop linkage within the
governor.
NOTE:
This will be felt by a step up of resistance while turning the adjusting screw.
18. Lock the adjusting screw in this position.

19. Loosen the droop adjusting knob, and slide the droop bracket to increase the droop.

AND 8V ENGINES)
20. Check droop until the desired maximum droop speed is obtained. Refer to step9 through
step 12.
21. When the desired maximum droop setting is reached, loosen the locknut, and turn the
maximum droop setting screw inward until it contacts the droop slider arm.
22. Lock the adjusting screw in position.
23. Check the minimum and maximum droop setting. Refer to step 9 through step 12.
24. Adjust the adjusting screws, if necessary, until the correct settings are obtained.
With the speed droop properly adjusted, set the maximum no load speed as follows:
1. With the engine operating at no load, adjust the speed until the engine is operating at
approximately 8% higher then the rated full load speed.
2. Turn the maximum speed adjusting screw in until the screw contacts the throttle linkage
internally, limiting the maximum speed of the engine at 8% above the rated full load
speed. See Figure 12-137.
1. Governor Assembly 2. Maximum Speed Adjusting Screw
3. Hold the screw, and tighten the locknut.

12.12.8 Governors with Synchronizing Motors
on the governor cover. See Figure 12-138.
1. Maximum Speed Adjustment Screw 5. Synchronous Motor

2. Load Limit Adjustment Screw 6. Droop Adjusting Screw
Figure 12-138 Typical Synchronous Motor Mounting
The adjustments on a governor equipped with a synchronizing motor are the same as on a
governor without the motor. The governor cover and motor assembly must be removed when
setting the engine speed droop (except on a governor equipped with an external droop adjustment).
The cover and motor must be installed to check the speed droop.

AND 16V)

CONTROL ADJUSTMENT (12V AND 16V)
The governor on the 12V and 16V engine is mounted on and driven from the front end of the
rear blower.
After adjusting the exhaust valves and timing the fuel injectors, adjust the governor linkage, and
position the injector rack control levers. See Figure 12-139.
1. Vertical Link Assembly 4. Load Limit Adjusting Screw

2. Governor Operating Lever 5. Maximum Speed Adjusting Screw
Figure 12-139 Hydraulic Governor Mounting

12.13.1 Adjust Governor-to-Injector Rack Control Linkage
Adjust the governor-to-injector rack control linkage as follows:
NOTICE:
Failure to follow this procedure can cause the injector control
linkage to bind during engine operation. The engine will hunt if
the linkage binds.
1. On engines equipped with an electric or hydraulic governor that requires a bell crank and
vertical link, load both governor control operating link levers in the same direction (in or
out).See Figure 12-140.
1. No. 4R Fuel Rod 4. No. 4L Fuel Rod

2. No. 5R Fuel Rod 5. Vertical Link Assembly
3. No. 5L Fuel Rod 6. Bell Crank
Figure 12-140 Governor-to-Injector Rack Control Linkage
2. Install the bell crank, and tighten the attaching bolts.

3. Check injector control tube assemblies and injector control racks operation prior to
performing a tune-up.
NOTE:
These components must operate freely.

AND 16V)
12.13.2 Position Injector Rack Control Levers and Adjust Governor

Linkage
The position of the injector racks must be correctly set in relation to the governor. Their positions
determine the amount of fuel injected into each cylinder and ensures equal load distribution.
Position the racks, and adjust the linkage as follows:
1. Clean and remove the valve rocker cover from each cylinder head. Discard the gaskets.
2. Loosen all the adjusting screws and locknuts.
NOTE:
Ensure all control levers are free on the control tubes.

3. Disconnect the vertical link assembly from the governor operating lever and the bell
crank. See Figure 12-141.
1. No. 4R Fuel Rod 4. No. 4L Fuel Rod

2. No. 5R Fuel Rod 5. Vertical Link Assembly
3. No. 5L Fuel Rod
Figure 12-141 Governor-to-Injector Rack Control Linkage
4. Loosen the bolt, and slide the governor operating lever from the serrated shaft.

AND 16V)
5. Place the bolt (removed from the lower end of the vertical link) through the bell crank and
into the recessed hole in the governor drive housing. See Figure 12-142.
1. Governor Drive Housing 3. Bolt

2. Bell Crank Lever
Figure 12-142 Positioning Bolt through Bell Crank Lever

6. Adjust the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack by tightening the adjusting screw
until the injector rack clevis rolls up or an increase in effort to turn the screwdriver is
noted. See Figure 12-143.
NOTICE:
Care should be taken to avoid setting the racks too tight, causing
the fuel rod to bend.
7. Tighten the screw approximately 1/8 turn more, and lock securely with the adjusting
screw locknut.
NOTE:
9. Adjust the No. 5R, 4L and 5L (16V) or No. 4R, 3L and 4L (12V) injector rack control
levers. Refer to step 6 through step 8.
NOTE:
When the settings are correct, all four of the injector racks will be snug on the ball end of
the control levers when the injectors are in the full-fuel position.

AND 16V)
10. To adjust the remaining injector rack control levers on the right front bank, hold the
No. 4R (16V) or No. 2R (12V) injector rack in the full-fuel position with the lever on
the control tube assembly.
NOTICE:
screws during installation or adjustment can damage the
injector control tube. The recommended torque for the adjusting
screws is 3-4 N·m (24-36 lb·in).
is noted.
13. Verify the injector rack adjustment of No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V). Refer to section
12.12.2.
14. Recheck the No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector rack to ensure it has remained snug
on the ball end of the injector rack control lever.
15. If the rack of No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) injector has become loose, loosen the locknut
and turn the adjusting screw clockwise slightly.
NOTE:
on the ball ends of their respective rack control levers.
17. Position the remaining injector rack control levers on the right front cylinder head.
NOTE:
When the settings are correct, all injector racks will be snug on the ball end of the control
levers when the injector control tube lever is held in the full-fuel position.
cylinder heads. Refer to step 11 through step 16.

19. Replace the governor operating lever on the serrated shaft so that the bolt hole is lined up
within the proper lines on the gage.
NOTE:
The type of governor (SGX or PSG) will determine the proper position of the lever.
See Figure 12-144.
1. Linkage Gage 2. Governor Operating Lever
Figure 12-144 Positioning Governor Operating Lever

21. Move the bell crank lever to the no-fuel position.

AND 16V)
22. Adjust the length of the vertical link so that the bolt holes of the levers and the centers
of the rod end bearings are lined up. See Figure 12-145.
1. Vertical Link 2. Governor Operating Lever
Figure 12-145 Adjusting Vertical Link
23. Replace the two bolts in the levers, and tighten the bolts.
24. Remove the governor cover.
25. With the load limit screw backed all the way out, retain the governor operating lever
in the full-fuel position.
NOTE:
The governor terminal lever should touch the boss on the governor housing.
26. Adjust the vertical link so that all the injector racks are in the full-fuel position, and
tighten the rod end locknuts securely.
27. Use a new gasket, and install the valve rocker cover on each cylinder head.
12.13.3 Check Injector Rack Adjustment
Verify rack adjustment as follows:

1. To ensure the rack control lever is properly adjusted, press down on the injector rack with
a screwdriver or finger tip. See Figure 12-146.
NOTE:
A light pressure should cause the rack to rotate. The rack is sufficiently tight if the rack
returns ("springs" back) to its original position when the pressure is removed. The rack is
too tight if heavy pressure is required to rotate it.
2. If No. 4R (16V) or No. 3R (12V) does not "spring" back upward, turn the No. 3R (16V)
or No. 2R (12V) adjusting screw counterclockwise slightly until the No. 4R (16V) or No.
3R (12V) injector rack returns to its full-fuel position.
4. Verify proper injector rack adjustment for both No. 4R and No. 3R (16V) or No. 3R and
No. 2R (12V) injectors.
12.13.4 Adjust Load Limit
The load limit is set at the factory and further adjustment should be unnecessary. However, if the
governor has had major repairs or the injector rack control levers have been repositioned, the
load limit screw should be adjusted.

AND 16V)
With the injector rack control levers properly adjusted, set the load limit as follows:
1. With the governor cover off and the load limit screw locknut loosened, place and retain
the governor operating lever in the full-fuel position. See Figure 12-147.
NOTE:
Do not overstress the linkage.
1. Governor Operating Lever 2. Load Limit Operating Screw
2. Turn the load limit adjusting screw in until the injector racks just loosen on the ball end of
the control levers.
3. Release the governor operating lever, and hold the adjusting screw while tightening the
locknut.
4. Install the governor cover, and tighten the screws.

12.13.5 Compensation Needle Valve Adjustment (PSG Governor)
Start the engine, and after the engine reaches normal operating temperature, adjust the governor
compensation needle valve, without load on the engine, as follows:
1. Open the valve two or three turns. See Figure 12-148.
1. Maximum Speed Adjustment Screw 5. Synchronizing Motor

2. Load Limit Adjustment Screw 6. Droop Adjustment Knob
Figure 12-148 Typical Synchronizing Motor Mounting
2. Allow the engine to "hunt" or "surge" for about a 1/2 minute to bleed any air which may
be trapped in the governor oil passages.
3. Gradually close the valve until the "hunting" just stops.

AND 16V)
4. Close the valve completely, and observe the number of turns required to close it.
5. Open the valve to the previous position.
6. Manually disturb the engine speed to test governor action.
NOTE:
The engine should return promptly to the original steady speed with only a small
overshoot. The correct valve setting will be between 1/8 and 1/2 turn open. Closing the
valve more than necessary will make the governor slow to return the engine to normal
speed after a load change.
12.13.6 Adjust Governor Speed Internal Droop
The purpose of adjusting the speed droop is to establish a definite speed at no load with a given
speed at rated full load.
The governor speed droop is set at the factory and further adjustment should be unnecessary. If
the governor has been overhauled, the speed droop must be adjusted.
The best method for determining the engine speed is using an accurate hand tachometer.
If a full rated load can be established on the unit, and the fuel rods, injector rack control levers and
the load limit have been adjusted, set the speed droop as follows:
1. Start the engine, and run it at approximately one-half the rated no-load speed until the
NOTE:
When the engine lubricating oil is cold, the governor regulation may be erratic.
Regulation will become increasingly stable as the temperature of the oil increases.
2. Stop the engine, and remove the governor cover.

3. Loosen the locknut and back off the maximum speed adjusting screw 15.88 mm (0.625 in.).

4. Loosen the droop adjusting screw. See Figure 12-149.
1. Droop Adjusting Screw
Figure 12-149 Adjusting Speed Droop
5. Move the droop bracket so that the screw is midway between the ends of the slot in the
bracket.
7. With the throttle in the run position, adjust the engine speed until the engine is operating at
3 to 5% above the recommended full-load speed.
8. Apply the full rated load on the engine, and adjust the engine speed to the correct full-load
speed.
9. Remove the rated load, and observe the engine speed after the speed stabilizes under no
load.
NOTE:
If the speed droop is correct, the engine speed will be approximately 3 to 5% higher
than the full-load speed.
10. If the speed droop is too high, stop the engine, loosen the droop adjusting screw, and move
the adjusting bracket IN toward the center of the governor.

AND 16V)
12. To increase the speed droop, move the bracket OUT, away from the center of the governor.
NOTE:
The speed droop in governors which control engines driving generators in parallel must
be identical, otherwise the electrical load will not be equally divided.
13. Adjust the speed droop bracket in each governor to obtain the desired variation between
engine no-load and full-load speeds.
NOTE:
The recommended speed droop for generator sets operating in parallel is 50 RPM (2-1/2
cycles) for units operating at 1,000 and 1,200 RPM, and 75 RPM (2-1/2 cycles) for units
operating at 1,500 and 1,800 RPM. Specifications are listed in Table 12-27. This speed
droop recommendation may be varied to suit the individual application.
Full Load No Load

Table 12-27 Recommended Speed Droop

12.13.7 Adjust Governor Speed External Droop
Some PSG type governors are equipped with an external adjustable droop control. See Figure
12-150. This permits the speed droop to be adjusted without removing the governor cover. With
this feature, a unit can be paralleled with another unit that is operating at constant frequency (zero
droop). The incoming unit must have its droop bracket set in the maximum position while it
is paralleled and while operating in parallel.

When stopping the unit operating at constant frequency, proceed as follows:

AND 16V)
1. Shift the load to the incoming unit, and move the governor droop bracket to zero droop.
2. Adjust the outgoing unit to maximum droop.
3. Remove droop from the line, and stop the engine.
NOTE:
The incoming unit will now be carrying the load and operating at constant frequency
(zero droop).
Adjust the governor speed droop as follows:

4. Start the engine, and run it at approximately one-half the rated full-load speed until the
5. Remove the load from the engine.
6. Back off the compensation needle valve to release any air that may be trapped in the
system.
7. Turn the needle valve in slowly to reduce governor "hunting".
NOTE:
The correct needle valve setting will be between 1/8 and 1/2 turn open.
8. Back out the minimum and maximum droop setting screws.

9. Loosen the droop adjusting knob, and move the slider all the way in toward the center of
the governor. See Figure 12-151.
1. Governor Operating Lever 2. Load Limit Operating Screw
10. Tighten the knob.

11. Loosen the locknut on the maximum speed adjusting screw, and turn the screw out until
15.88 mm (0.625 in.) of the threads are exposed.
12. With the engine operating at the recommended full-load speed, apply the full rated load,
and check the engine speed.
13. If required, adjust the engine to full-load speed.

AND 16V)
14. Remove the load, and observe the engine speed.
NOTE:
If the zero droop setting is correct, the engine speed will remain constant.
15. If the engine speed is higher, loosen the droop adjusting knob, and set the slider to a
reduced droop position.
16. When the desired minimum droop setting is reached, loosen the locknut, and turn the
minimum droop setting screw in until it contacts the droop linkage within the governor.
NOTE:
This will be felt by a step up in resistance while turning the adjusting screw.

18. Loosen the droop adjusting knob, and slide the droop bracket in a direction to increase
the droop.
19. Refer to step 9 through step 12 to check the droop until the desired maximum speed
droop is attained.
20. When the desired maximum droop setting is reached, loosen the locknut, and turn the
maximum droop setting screw inward until it contacts the droop slider arm.
22. Recheck the minimum and maximum droop setting. Refer to step 9 through step 12, and
turn the adjustment screws, if necessary, until the correct settings are obtained.
With the speed droop properly adjusted, set the maximum no-load speed as follows:
1. With the engine operating at no-load, adjust the speed until the engine is operating at
approximately 8% higher than the rated full-load speed.

2. Turn the maximum speed adjusting screw in until the screw contacts the throttle linkage
internally, limiting the maximum speed of the engine at 8% above the rated full load
speed. See Figure 12-152.
1. Maximum Speed Adjusting Screw
3. Hold the screw, and tighten the locknut.

12.14 GOVERNORS WITH SYNCHRONIZING MOTOR
12.14 GOVERNORS WITH SYNCHRONIZING MOTOR
on the governor cover. See Figure 12-153.

The adjustments on a governor equipped with a synchronizing motor are the same as on a
governor without the motor. However, the governor cover and motor assembly must be removed
when setting the engine speed droop (except on a governor equipped with the external droop
adjustment). The cover and motor must be reinstalled to check the speed droop.

12.15 SUPPLEMENTARY GOVERNING DEVICE ADJUSTMENT
Engines with mechanical governors may be equipped with a load limit device to reduce the
maximum horsepower. See Figure 12-154. This device consists of a load limit screw threaded
into a plate mounted between two adjacent rocker arm shaft brackets. A load limit lever is
clamped to the injector control tube.
1. Load Limit Lever 6. Load Limit Screw Locknut

2. Injector Rack Control Tube 7. Load Limit Screw
3. Fuel Flow Position 8. Adjusting Screw Plate
4. Setting 9. Rocker Arm Bracket
5. Clamp Bolts 10. Markings on Adjusting Screw Plate
Figure 12-154 Engine Load Limit Device

12.15.1 Engine Load Limit Device
The load limit device is located between the No. 1 and No. 2 cylinders on each cylinder bank of a
6V engine and between the No. 2 and No. 3 cylinders on each cylinder bank of an 8V engine.
On the 12V and 16V engines, four load limit devices are used (one on each cylinder head). The
load limit device is located between the No. 1 and No. 2 cylinders and between the No. 4 and
No 0.5 cylinders (12V engines) or between the No. 2 and No. 3 cylinders and between the No.
6 and No. 7 cylinders (16V engines) on each cylinder bank.
When properly adjusted for the maximum horsepower desired, this device limits the travel of
the injector control racks and the fuel output of the injectors.

After the engine tune-up is completed, ensure load limit devices are properly installed. See Figure
12-155. Ensure counterbores in the adjusting screw plates are up. The rocker arm shaft bracket
bolts which fasten the adjusting screw plate to the brackets are tightened to 102-115 N·m (75-85
lb·ft) torque. All other rocker arm shaft bracket bolts are tightened to 122-136 N·m (90-100
lb·ft) torque.
1. Load Limit Lever 6. Load Limit Screw Locknut

2. Injector Rack Control Tube 7. Load Limit Screw
3. Fuel Flow Position 8. Adjusting Screw Plate
4. Setting 9. Rocker Arm Bracket
5. Clamp Bolts 10. Markings on Adjusting Screw Plate
Figure 12-155 Engine Load Limit Device

12.15.2 Adjustment of Load Limit Device on Each Cylinder Head
Adjust the load limit device on each cylinder head as follows:

1. Loosen the load limit screw locknut, and remove the screw.
2. Loosen the load limit lever clamp bolts so the lever is free to turn on the injector rack
control tube.
3. With the screw removed from the plate, lock the load limit screw locknut so the bottom of
the nut is 44.5 mm (1.75 in.) from the bottom of the load limit screw.
4. Thread the load limit screw into the adjusting screw plate until the locknut bottoms against
the top of the plate.
5. Hold the injector rack control tube in the full fuel position, and place the load limit lever
against the bottom of the load limit screw.
6. Tighten the load limit lever clamp bolts.
7. Ensure injector racks will just move into the full fuel position. Readjust the load limit
lever, if necessary.
8. Hold the load limit screw to keep it from turning.
9. Set the locknut until the distance between the bottom of the locknut and the top of the
adjusting screw plate corresponds with the dimension stamped on the plate.
NOTE:
If the plate is not stamped, adjust the load limit screw while operating the engine on a
dynamometer test stand, and not the number of turns required to obtain the desired
horsepower. Stamp the plate accordingly.
10. Thread the load limit screw into the plate until the locknut bottoms against the top of
the plate.
NOTE:
Ensure the nut turns with the screw.
11. Hold the load limit screw to keep it from turning.

12. Tighten the locknut to secure the setting.

12.16 POWER CONTROL DEVICE
The power control (torque limiting) device is used on some vehicle engines to limit the maximum
horsepower output at the wheel without diminishing the performance at lower speeds where full
power may be required. See Figure 12-156. It limits the horsepower at or just below the normal
full-load governor speed. These limiting characteristics are proportionately lessened as the engine
speed is reduced and the horsepower required is reduced.

12.16 POWER CONTROL DEVICE
1. Full Fuel Position 8. Markings on Adjusting Screw Plate

2. Setting 9. Bolt
3. Clamp 10. Rocker Arm Bracket
5. Lever 12. Adjusting Screw
6. Fuel Pipe 13. Locknut
7. Adjusting Screw Plate
Figure 12-156 Power Control Device
This device, one on each cylinder bank, consists of an adjusting screw threaded into a plate
mounted between two adjacent rocker arm shaft brackets and a spring attached to a clamp on
the injector control tube. The rocker arm shaft bolts that retain the adjusting screw plates are
tightened to 102-115 N·m (75-85 lb·ft) torque. All other rocker arm shaft bracket bolts are
tightened to 122-136 N·m (90-100 lb·ft) torque.

The power control device is located between the No. 1 and No. 2 cylinders on each cylinder bank
of a 6V engine, between the No. 2 and No. 3 cylinders on each cylinder bank of an 8V engines.
12.16.1 Adjustment of Power Control Device
After the engine tune-up is completed, adjust the power control device on both cylinder banks
as follows
1. Place the vehicle on a chassis dynamometer, and check the maximum wheel horsepower.
2. Loosen the power control spring attaching bolts.
3. Adjust both springs until they project parallel to the cylinder heads when the injector
control tacks are held in the full fuel position.
4. Tighten the spring attaching bolts to 10-12 N·m (7-9 lb·ft) torque to retain the adjustment.
5. Set each power control device, while holding the injector control racks in the full fuel
position.
6. Turn the adjusting screw down (clockwise) until it just touches the spring and the locknut
is tight against the plate.
7. Release the injector control rack.
8. Wipe the oil from each spring and the bottom of each adjusting screw.
10. With the engine running at full governed speed, check the horsepower.
11. If necessary, adjust the screws to obtain the specified horsepower.
NOTE:
Turn the screws down to decrease the horsepower. Turn the screws up to increase
the horsepower.
12. When the desired wheel horsepower is obtained, hold the screws from turning, and tighten
the locknuts.If a dynamometer is not available, proceed as follows:
13. Back up the locknuts the distance stamped on the plates.
14. Turn the screws and locknuts down together until the locknuts bottom on the plates.
15. Hold the screws from turning, and tighten the locknuts.

12.17 THROTTLE DELAY MECHANISM ADJUSTMENT
The throttle delay mechanism is used in turbocharged engines to retard full fuel injection when
accelerating. This reduces exhaust smoke and improves fuel economy.
The throttle delay mechanism is installed between the No. 1 and No. 2 cylinders on the right
bank cylinder head. See Figure 12-157. It consists of a special rocker arm shaft bracket (which
incorporates the throttle delay cylinder), a piston, throttle delay lever, connecting link, orifice
plug, ball check valve, and U-bolt.
1. Yield Link 10. Oil Reservoir

2. Control Link Operating Lever 11. Pin Gage (Setting and Checking)
3. Differential Lever 12. Oil Supply Fitting
4. Injector Rack Clevis 13. Fill Hole
5. Link 14. Piston
6. Throttle Delay Lever 15. Check Valve

7. U-Bolt 16. Cylinder Head

8. Control Tube 17. Injector Body-to-Rack Hole Counterbore
9. Nut 18. Gage Length; Insert Timing Gage Here
Figure 12-157 Throttle Delay Cylinder and Yield Link
A throttle delay bracket with two 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) fill holes and a 762-1016 mm (30-40 in.)
water restriction check valve is used in some 6V coach engines. All tilt coach engine models and
some upright models use this throttle delay.
A yield link replaces the standard operating lever connecting link in the governor.
Oil is supplied to a reservoir above the throttle delay cylinder through and oil supply fitting in
the drilled oil passage in the rocker arm shaft bracket. As the injector racks are moved toward
the no fuel position, free movement of the throttle delay piston is assured by air drawn into the
cylinder through the ball check valve. Further piston movement uncovers an opening which
permits oil form the reservoir to enter the cylinder and displace the air. When the engine is
accelerated, injector rack movement toward the full fuel position is momentarily retarded while
the piston expels the oil from the cylinder through an orifice. To permit full accelerator travel,
regardless of the retarded injector rack position, a spring loaded yield link replaces the standard
operating lever connecting link in the governor.
The current throttle delay bracket has a closer tolerance on the piston and cylinder bore. The
current piston link pin hole is offset below the piston centerline and has a larger pin boss diameter.
The current piston link has two tabs to ensure that the piston is installed with the piston pin hole
offset downward. The current piston and link must be used together to ensure correct positioning
of the piston. The current check valve has a nylon check ball in place of the former brass ball.
12.17.1 Throttle Delay Cylinder Rocker Arm Bracket Modification
The current throttle delay cylinder rocker arm bracket has a 1.984 mm (0.0781 in.) diameter
fill hole. The former throttle delay cylinder with a 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) diameter fill hole can be
modified as follows:
1. Ream the fill hole to 6.721-6.772 mm (0.2646-0.2666 in.) diameter with a 0.2656 in.
reamer.
2. Remove any burrs formed in the throttle delay piston bore with fine emery cloth to ensure
piston moves freely.
3. Press a service bushing in the reamed hole, and check the piston for free movement.
4. Remove and discard the original check valve.
5. Install new check valve.
6. Assembly and install the throttle delay cylinder.
7. Adjust the throttle delay cylinder. Refer to section 12.17.4.

12.17.2 Throttle Delay Check Valve Inspection
When checking the throttle delay hydraulic cylinder, inspect the valve as follows:
1. Fill the throttle delay cylinder with diesel fuel oil.
2. While moving the engine throttle from the idle position to the full fuel position, watch for
leaks in the check valve.
3. If the check valve leaks more than a drop, replace it.
12.17.3 Current Throttle Delay Adjustment
With the engine stopped, adjust the throttle delay as follows:

1. Loosen the U-bolt which clamps the lever to the injector control tube to disconnect the
throttle delay mechanism. See Figure 12-158.
1. Injector Rack Clevis 9. Pin Gage (Setting and Checking)

2. Link 10. Oil Supply Fitting
3. Throttle Delay Lever 11. Fill Hole
4. U-Bolt 12. Piston
5. Control Tube 13. Check Valve
6. Upper Nut 14. Cylinder Head
7. Lower Nut 15. Injector Body-Rack Hole Counterbore
8. Oil Reservoir 16. Gage Length-Insert Timing Gage Here
Figure 12-158 Adjust Throttle Delay Cylinder (Current)

2. Fill the throttle delay reservoir with clean engine oil.
NOTE:
The oil reservoir does not have to remain full during the entire adjustment procedure.
3. Insert the appropriate throttle delay timing gage on the rack between the injector body
rack hole counterbore and the shoulder on the injector rack clevis (the No. 2 injector on

6V and 8V engines, the No. 5 injector on 12V engines, and the No. 6 injector on 16V
engines). See Figure 12-159. Refer to section 12.9.7 for throttle delay timing gage tables.
1. Injector Rack Clevis 9. Pin Gage (Setting and Checking)

Figure 12-159 Adjusting Throttle Delay Cylinder (Current)

4. Hold the governor throttle lever in the maximum speed position.
NOTE:
This should cause the injector rack to move toward the full fuel position.
5. Insert pin gage J 25558 with the "go" (green 1.75 mm or 0.069 in.) end in the cylinder
fill hole.
NOTE:
If the throttle delay housing has multiple holes, use the hole indicated in the figure.
See Figure 12-160.
1. Setting Hole 2. Holes (0.25 in.)
Figure 12-160 Throttle Delay Assembly

6. Rotate the throttle delay lever in the proper direction until movement is limited by the
piston contacting the pin gage. See Figure 12-161.
1. Injector Body 9. Pin Gage (Setting and Checking)

Figure 12-161 Adjusting Throttle Delay Cylinder (Current)
7. Tighten the U-bolt while exerting slight pressure on the lever in the direction of rotation.
8. Remove the pin gage.

9. Insert the "go" (green 1.75 mm or 0.069 in.) end of the gage in the fill hole.
10. If the gage will not go past the piston without resistance, increase the torque on the lower
U-bolt nut.
12. Reverse the pin gage, and insert the "no go" (red 1.83 mm or 0.072 in.) end in the fill hole.
13. If the "no go" end of the gage enters the fill hole past the piston without resistance,
increase the torque on the upper U-bolt nut.
NOTE:
It should no be possible to insert the gage past the piston without moving the injector
racks toward the no fuel position.
14. Release the governor throttle lever, and remove the timing gage and pin gage.
15. If either U-bolt nut is tightened without the pin gage installed, check the setting.
16. Move the injector control tube assembly between the no fuel and the full fuel position to
confirm there is no bind.
12.17.4 Adjustment of Throttle Delay (Former)
After the injector rack control levers have been positioned, the throttle delay mechanism must be
adjusted. With the engine stopped, proceed as follows:
1. Loosen the U-bolt which clamps the lever to the injector control tube.

2. Insert gage J 23190 (11.532 mm or 0.454 in. setting) between the injector body and the
shoulder on the injector rack. See Figure 12-162.
1. Piston and Housing 3. Gage

2. U-Bolt Nut
Figure 12-162 Throttle Delay Adjustment (Former)
3. Apply light pressure on the injector control tube in the full fuel direction.
4. Align the throttle delay piston to make is flush with the edge of the throttle delay cylinder.
5. Tighten the U-bolt on the injector control tube, and remove the gage.
6. Move the injector rack from the no fuel to the full fuel position to check for bind.

12.17.5 Mechanical Governor Shutdown Solenoid Adjustment
When a governor shutdown solenoid is used on an engine equipped with a mechanical governor,
the governor stop lever must be properly adjusted to match the shutdown solenoid plunger travel.
The solenoid plunger can be properly aligned to the governor stop lever as follows:
1. Remove the bolt connecting the rod end eye (variable speed governor) or the right angle
clip (limiting speed governor) to the stop lever. See Figure 12-163.
1. Shutdown Shaft 5. Stop Lever

2. Clamping Bolt 6. Bolt
3. Solenoid 7. Rod End Bolt
4. Locknut 8. Plunger
Figure 12-163 Typical Variable Speed Governor Lever Position

2. Align and clamp the lever to the shutdown shaft so that at mid-travel, the lever is
perpendicular to the solenoid plunger.
NOTE:
This assures that the linkage will travel as straight as possible. The solenoid plunger has
0.5 in. travel available. This is enough space to move the injector control racks from
the full fuel to the complete no fuel position. Shut down will occur prior to completing
travel. See Figure 12-164.
1. Solenoid 5. Stop Lever

2. Clamping Bolt 6. Plunger
3. Shutdown Shaft 7. Clip
4. Locknut 8. Bolt
Figure 12-164 Typical Limiting Speed Governor Lever Position

3. With the stop lever in the run position, adjust the rod end eye or right angle clip for
minimum engagement on the solenoid plunger when the connecting bolt is installed.
NOTE:
The oversize hole in the eye or clip will permit the solenoid to start closing the air gap,
resulting in build-up of pull-in force prior to initiating stop lever movement.
4. Lock the bolt through the rod end eye or right angle clip to the stop lever.
5. Adjust the stop lever to a height that will permit the eye or clip to float vertically.
NOTE:
The clearance above and below the eye or clip and the bolt head should be 0.7938 mm
(0.03125 in.) minimum.
NOTE:
The locknut can be either on top of or below the stop lever.
6. Move the lever to the stop position, and observe the plunger for any bind.
7. If necessary, loosen the mounting bolts, and align the solenoid to provide free plunger
motion.

12.18 FUEL MODULATOR
The fuel modulator is mounted on the left bank cylinder head between the No. 3 and No. 4
cylinder on 8V engines and consists of a cast housing containing a cylinder, piston, cam and
spring. See Figure 12-165. The modulator mechanism is installed on the left bank between the No.
2 and No. 3 cylinder on 6V engines. A lever and roller assembly which controls the injector rack
is connected to the injector control tube. An air supply line runs from the turbocharger discharge
on the air inlet housing to the modulator housing, providing pressure to activate the piston.
1. Injector Rack Clevis 3. Throttle Delay Lever

2. Link 4. Injector Counterbore
Figure 12-165 Rack Clevis
The fuel modulator maintains the proper fuel-to-air ratio in the lower speed ranges where the
mechanical governor would normally act to provide maximum injector output. It operates in such
a manner that although the engine throttle may be moved into the full fuel position, the injector
racks cannot advance to me full fuel position until the turbine speed is high enough to provide
sufficient air for combustion.
The modulator tells the fuel system the maximum amount of fuel the engine can efficiently use
based on turbocharger boost pressure. Increased pressure forces the piston and cam out of the
cylinder, allowing the rack to move toward full fuel. The spring behind the piston is calibrated
to the pressure characteristics of the engine.
Effective with engine serial number 8VF-077480, a fuel modulator is available on Federal and
California certified 8V-92TA (turbocharged-aftercooled) vehicle engines rated at 355 horsepower
at 1800 RPM.

Effective with unit number 6VF154264, the turbochargers and blower bypass valves on marine
engine models 8062-3404 and 8062-7404 were changed to improve fuel combustion efficiency
and reduce smoke levels at high RPM. Fuel modulators on these engines must be set at 11.53 mm
(0.454 in.) for optimum performance.
For optimum operating efficiency, the engine fuel modulator must be checked periodically, and
reset if required.
Checking and resetting the fuel modulator ensures the following:
□ Engine emission-related adjustments comply with EPA requirements.
□ Regulated fuel/air ratio to prevent over fueling and smoke.
□ Smooth, free operation of the fuel modulator and linkage.
□ Proper adjustment of the modulator to DDC factory specifications, eliminating any
previously made incorrect adjustment.
12.18.1 Check Fuel Modulator Setting
Check the fuel modulator setting as follows:

1. With the engine stopped, insert the correct rack gage between the injector body rack recess
and the shoulder on the injector rack. See Figure 12-166.

Figure 12-166 Rack Gage Position

NOTE:
Use the injector next to and forward of the fuel modulator assembly. Insert the gage so
the handle is at a 45 degree angle. Fuel modulator specifications and setting tools
are listed in Table 12-28.
Tool Setting
J 9509-C 0.404
J 33156 0.465
J 34080 0.480
J 33157 0.490
J 24889 0.345
J 23190 0.454
J 24882 0.385
J 35735 0.430
Table 12-28 Modulator Specifications and Setting Tools
NOTE:
Rack gages are marked with the tool number and specific dimensions. Dimensional
tolerances are ± 0.05 mm (± 0.002 in.).
2. Hold the governor speed control lever in the maximum speed position and the run/stop
lever in the run position.
3. Insert a 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) feeler gage between the modulator roller and cam.
NOTE:
The rack gage must fall over. The rack gage should stand at a 45 degree angle by
itself when the 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) feeler gage is removed. See Figure 12-167 and
see Figure 12-168.


Figure 12-168 Rework of 0.017 in. and 0.004 in. Feeler Gage Stock

At major repair or overhaul, inspect the roller and piston outer diameter and the cylinder
bore inner diameter for wear. Inspect the operating surfaces-the lever roller, the roller pins
at the cam pivot, and the cam attachment to the piston.
12.18.2 Adjust Fuel Modulator
Before the fuel injector rack control levers are adjusted, the fuel modulator lever and roller
assembly must be positioned free from cam contact. Loosen the clamp screw to keep the lever
and roller assembly free.
After the injector rack control levers have been properly positioned, adjust the modulator as
follows:
1. With the engine stopped, insert the correct rack gage between the injector body rack recess
and the shoulder on the injector rack. See Figure 12-169.
NOTE:
Use the injector next to and forward of the fuel modulator assembly. Insert the gage so
that the handle is at a 45 degree angle.


2. Hold the governor speed control lever in the maximum speed position and the run/stop
lever in the run position.
NOTE:
The rack gage must stand up while being held in place by the rack.
3. With the clamp loose, push the air box fuel modulator lever assembly until the roller
contacts the cam with sufficient force to take up the roller and cam pin clearances.
4. Insert a 3/8 in. x 3 in. x 0.017 in. feeler gage between the cam and the roller. See Figure
1. Lever 7. Spring
2. Clamp 8. Housing
3. Clamp Screw 9. Air Supply from Air Box
4. Feeler Gage Position 10. Piston
5. Lever 11. Cylinder
6. Cam 12. Roller
Figure 12-170 Fuel Modulator Assembly

Figure 12-171 Rework of 0.017 in. and 0.004 in. Feeler Gage Stock
5. Ensure cam is centered, and tighten the clamp screw until the gage falls.
6. Replace the 0.43 mm (0.017 in.) thick feeler gage with a 0.10 mm (0.004 in.) thick gage,
and tighten the screw until the gage falls again.
7. While holding the governor lever in the maximum speed position, verify the rack gage
stands at a 45 degree angle by itself.
8. Insert a 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) feeler gage between the modulator roller and cam.
NOTE:
If the rack gage falls, the setting is correct.
9. Remove the gage.


13 PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
Section Page
13.1 PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE ITEMS DESCRIPTION .......................... 13-5

13.2 MAINTENANCE OF VEHICLE ENGINE .................................................. 13-6
13.3 MAINTENANCE OF STATIONARY AND INDUSTRIAL ENGINE ............ 13-12
13.4 MAINTENANCE OF PLEASURE CRAFT MARINE ENGINES ................ 13-16
13.5 LUBRICATING OIL .................................................................................. 13-19
13.6 OIL PRESSURE ...................................................................................... 13-26
13.7 LUBRICATING OIL FILTER ..................................................................... 13-27
13.8 FUEL STRAINER AND FILTER ............................................................... 13-29
13.9 FUEL TANK ............................................................................................. 13-32
13.10 FUEL CONTAMINATION ......................................................................... 13-33
13.11 FUEL LINES AND FLEXIBLE HOSES ..................................................... 13-34
13.12 COOLING SYSTEM ................................................................................ 13-36
13.13 WATER PUMP ........................................................................................ 13-49
13.14 COOLANT FILTER .................................................................................. 13-50
13.15 COOLANT FILTER/INHIBITOR PRECHARGE ELEMENT ...................... 13-51
13.16 RADIATOR .............................................................................................. 13-53
13.17 TURBOCHARGER AND EXHAUST CONNECTIONS ............................ 13-54
13.18 DRIVE BELTS ......................................................................................... 13-58
13.19 BATTERY ................................................................................................. 13-65
13.20 BATTERY CHARGING ALTERNATOR .................................................... 13-68
13.21 ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION MOUNTS .............................................. 13-70
13.22 ENGINE TUNE-UP ................................................................................. 13-71
13.23 BLOWER BYPASS VALVE ...................................................................... 13-72
13.25 AIR COMPRESSOR ............................................................................... 13-74
13.26 THROTTLE AND CLUTCH CONTROLS ................................................. 13-75
13.27 AIR BOX DRAIN TUBE ............................................................................ 13-76
13.28 AIR BOX CHECK VALVES ....................................................................... 13-77
13.29 SHUTTER OPERATION .......................................................................... 13-78
13.30 GOVERNOR, OVERSPEED GOVERNOR .............................................. 13-79
13.31 THROTTLE DELAY FUEL MODULATOR ................................................ 13-80
13.32 FAN HUB .................................................................................................. 13-81
13.33 FAN (THERMO-MOUNTED) .................................................................... 13-83
13.34 THERMOSTATS AND SEALS ................................................................. 13-84
13.35 BLOWER SCREEN ................................................................................. 13-85
13.36 FUEL INJECTORS AND VALVE CLEARANCE ....................................... 13-87
13.37 VIBRATION DAMPER .............................................................................. 13-88
13.38 STARTING MOTOR ................................................................................. 13-89
13.39 EXHAUST SYSTEM ............................................................................... 13-91
13.40 CRANKCASE BREATHER (EXTERNALLY MOUNTED) ......................... 13-92
13.41 CRANKCASE BREATHER (INTERNALLY MOUNTED) .......................... 13-93
13.42 ENGINE (STEAM CLEAN) ....................................................................... 13-94
13.43 POWER TAKE-OFF ................................................................................ 13-95
13.44 TORQMATIC CONVERTER .................................................................... 13-97
13.45 REDUCTION GEAR ................................................................................. 13-99
13.46 TRANSIT COACH CONVERTER MUFFLER .......................................... 13-101
13.47 AIR CLEANER ........................................................................................ 13-103
13.48 AIR SYSTEM .......................................................................................... 13-106
13.50 AIR SHUTDOWN VALVE ......................................................................... 13-111
13.51 COOLING SYSTEM (MARINE) ............................................................... 13-112
13.52 HEAT EXCHANGER CHANGEOUT INTERVAL ...................................... 13-113
13.53 HEAT EXCHANGER ELECTRODES AND CORE (RAW WATER
SYSTEM ZINCS) ..................................................................................... 13-116
13.54 RAW WATER PUMP ................................................................................ 13-118

13.55 FUEL AND BOOST COOLERS ............................................................... 13-121

13.56 TORQMATIC MARINE GEAR (6V AND 8V) ............................................ 13-122
13.57 MARINE GEAR (TWIN DISC 16V) .......................................................... 13-124
13.58 CLUTCH ACTUATOR (DDEC MARINE) .................................................. 13-126

13.1 PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE ITEMS DESCRIPTION
The suggestions and recommendations for preventive maintenance should be followed as closely
as possible to obtain long life and best performance from the Series 92 engine. The intervals
indicated are in time (miles) of actual operation.
The time or mileage increments shown apply only to the maintenance function described. These
functions should be coordinated with other regularly scheduled maintenance such as chassis
lubrication.
The daily instructions pertain to routine or daily engine starting and not to a new engine or one
that has not been operated for a considerable period of time. For new or stored engines, carry out
the instructions given under "Preparation for a First Time Start". Refer to section11.1.
Preventive maintenance other than the "each shift" and "daily" checks should be performed by
authorized Detroit Diesel service outlets. These outlets have the trained personnel and special
tools to properly perform these services.

13.2 MAINTENANCE OF VEHICLE ENGINE
Engine component must be maintained at various intervals.
13.2.1 Daily Interval Maintenance (Vehicle Engine)
Every day, the following components must be inspected, serviced, corrected or replaced as
necessary.
□ Lubricating Oil, refer to section 13.5.
□ Fuel Tank, refer to section 13.9.
□ Fuel Lines and Flexible Hoses, refer to section 13.11.
□ Cooling System, refer to section 13.12.
□ Turbocharger, Exhaust Connections, refer to section 13.17.
□ Air System, refer to section 13.48.
□ Air Compressor, refer to section 13.25.
□ Throttle and Clutch Controls, refer to section 13.26.
□ Power Take-Off, refer to section 13.43.
13.2.2 Every 1,500 Mile Interval Maintenance (Vehicle Engine)
Every 1,500 miles, the following component must be inspected, serviced, corrected or replaced as
necessary.
Every 3,000 miles, the following component must be inspected, serviced, corrected or replaced as
necessary.
□ Battery, refer to section 13.19.
Every 6,000 miles, the following components must be inspected, serviced, corrected or replaced
as necessary.
□ Drive Belts, refer to section 13.18.
13.2.5 Every 6 Month or 10,000 Mile Interval Maintenance (Vehicle

Engine)
Every 6 months or 10,000 miles, the following components must be inspected, serviced, corrected
or replaced as necessary.

□ Fuel Strainer and Filter, refer to section 13.8.

□ Water Pump, refer to section 13.13.
□ Starting Motor, refer to section 13.38.
Every 15,000 miles, the following components must be inspected, serviced, corrected or replaced
as necessary.
□ Dry Type Air Cleaner, refer to section 13.47.
□ Lubricating Oil Filter, refer to section 13.7.2.
□ Coolant Filter/Inhibitor Level, refer to section 13.14.
□ Coolant Filter/Inhibitor Pre-Charge Element, refer to section 13.15.
□ Governor, Overspeed Governor refer to section 13.30.

Engine)
Every 12 months or 20,000 miles, the following components must be inspected, serviced,
corrected or replaced as necessary.
□ Fuel and Fuel Tank, refer to section 13.9.
□ Air Cleaners, refer to section 13.47.
□ Turbochargers, Exhaust Connections, refer to section 13.17.
□ Engine (Steam Clean), refer to section 13.42.
□ Radiator, refer to section 13.16.
□ Oil Pressure, refer to section 13.6.
□ Battery Charging Alternator, refer to section 13.20.
□ Thermostats and Seals, refer to section 13.34.
□ Crankcase Breather, refer to section 13.41.
□ Air Shutdown Valve, refer to section 13.50.
□ Shutter Operation, refer to section 13.29.
□ Fan Hub, refer to section 13.32.

Engine)


□ Air Box Drain Tube, refer to section 13.27.
□ Blower Screen, refer to section 13.35.

Engine)

Engine)
□ Throttle Delay/Fuel Modulator, refer to section 13.26.

Engine)


□ Engine and Transmission Mounts, refer to section 13.21.
□ Crankcase Pressure, refer to section 13.40.

Engine)

Engine)


□ Fuel Injectors and Valve Clearance, refer to section 13.36.

Engine)

Engine)
□ Blower Bypass Valve, refer to section 13.23.
□ Throttle Delay/Fuel Modulator, refer to section 13.26.
□ Air Box Check Valves, refer to section 13.28.
□ Low Coolant Level Sensor, refer to section 13.12.7.

Engine)

Every 240,000 miles, the following components must be inspected, serviced, corrected or
replaced as necessary.

13.3 MAINTENANCE OF STATIONARY AND INDUSTRIAL ENGINE
Engine component must be maintained at various intervals.
13.3.1 Daily Interval Maintenance (Stationary and Industrial Engine)
necessary.
13.3.2 Every 50 Hour or 1,500 Mile Interval Maintenance (Stationary and

Industrial Engine)
Every 50 hours or 1,500 miles, the following component must be inspected, serviced, corrected or
Industrial Engine)
Every 100 hours or 3,000 miles, the following component must be inspected, serviced, corrected
□ Battery, refer to section 13.19.
13.3.4 Every 150 Hour Interval Maintenance (Stationary and Industrial

Engine)
Every 150 hours, the following components must be inspected, serviced, corrected or replaced as
necessary.
Industrial Engine)
Every 150 hours or 4,500 miles, the following components must be inspected, serviced, corrected

Industrial Engine)
Industrial Engine)
□ Coolant Filter/Inhibitor Level, refer to section 13.14.
□ Drive Belts, refer to section 13.18.
13.3.8 Every 600 Hour or 18,000 Mile Interval Maintenance (Stationary

and Industrial Engine)
Every 600 hours or 18,000 miles, the following components must be inspected, serviced,
13.3.9 Every 9 Month or 500 Mile Interval Maintenance (Stationary and

Industrial Engine)
Every 9 months or 500 miles, the following components must be inspected, serviced, corrected or
□ Air Cleaner, refer to section 13.47.
□ Governor, Overspeed Governor, refer to section 13.30.
13.3.10 Every 12 Month or 700 Mile Interval Maintenance (Stationary and

Industrial Engine)
Every 12 months or 700 miles, the following components must be inspected, serviced, corrected


13.3.11 Every 18 Month or 1,000 Mile Interval Maintenance (Stationary


□ Blower Screen, refer to section 13.35.

□ Tachometer Drive, refer to section 13.24.
□ Blower Bypass Valve, refer to section 13.23.



13.4 MAINTENANCE OF PLEASURE CRAFT MARINE ENGINES
Engine components must be maintained at various intervals.
13.4.1 Beginning of Boating Season (Pleasure Craft Marine)
At the beginning of the boating season, the following component must be inspected, serviced
or corrected as necessary.
□ Cooling System (Marine), refer to section 13.51.
13.4.2 Daily Shift Interval Maintenance (Pleasure Craft Marine)
necessary.
□ Fuel/Water Separator and Filter, refer to section 13.8.2.
□ Marine Gear, refer to section 13.57.
□ Raw Water Pump, refer to section 13.54.
13.4.3 Every 50 Hour Interval Maintenance (Pleasure Craft Marine)
Every 50 hours, the following component must be inspected, serviced, corrected or replaced as
necessary.
13.4.4 150 Hour Interval Maintenance (Pleasure Craft Marine)
necessary.
□ Drive belts (Marine), refer to section 13.18.
□ Cooling system, refer to section 13.12.
□ Coolant Filter/Inhibitor Pre-Charge Element, refer to section 13.15.
□ Fuel/Water Separator and Filter, refer to section 13.8.2.

necessary.
□ Cooling Filter/Inhibitor Level, refer to section 13.12.3.
necessary.
□ Tachometer Drive, refer to section 13.24.
necessary.
□ Air Separators, refer to section 13.49.
□ Governor, Overspeed Governor, refer to section 13.30.
Every 1000 hours, the following components must be inspected, serviced, corrected or replaced
as necessary.
□ Air Separator, refer to section 13.49.
□ Marine Gear, refer to section 13.57.
□ Fuel Injectors, refer to section 13.36.
Every 4000 hours, the following components must be inspected, serviced, corrected or replaced
as necessary.

□ Marine Gear Oil Cooler, refer to section 13.56.

□ Fuel and Boost Coolers, refer to section 13.55.
□ Heat Exchanger, refer to section 13.49.

13.5 LUBRICATING OIL
Check the lubricating oil level with the engine stopped. If the engine has just been stopped, wait
approximately twenty minutes to allow the oil to drain back to the oil pan. Add the proper grade
oil, as required, to maintain the correct level on the dipstick. Refer to section 5.2.
13.5.1 Fill Crankcase
Fill the crankcase with oil as follows:
NOTICE:
If the oil level is constantly above normal and excess lubricating
oil has not been added to the crankcase, determine the cause.
Fuel or coolant diluting the lubricating oil can result in serious
engine damage. For additional information, refer to section
5.2.1.10.
1. Fill the oil pan to the full mark on the dipstick.

2. Start and run the engine for approximately ten minutes.
3. Stop the engine, and wait a minimum of twenty minutes.
4. Add the required amount of oil to reach the full mark on the dipstick.
NOTE:
Each engine oil filter will require approximately two additional quarts (1.9 liters) of oil.
Make a visual check for oil leaks around the filters and the external oil lines.
Change the lubricating oil at the intervals listed in Table 13-1.

Highway Truck & Motor Coach 24,000 km (15,000 Miles)
City Transit Coaches 9,600 km (6,000 Miles) or 3 Months*
Pick-up & Delivery Stop & Go, Short Trip 19,000 km (12,000 Miles)
Industrial, Agricultural and Marine 150 Hours
Stationary Units, Standby 150 Hours or 1 Year*
Table 13-1 Maximum Allowable Oil Drain Intervals - Normal Operation with Low
Sulfur Fuel (0.5% or Less)

Listed in Table 13-2 are drain intervals when using high sulfur fuel (above 0.50 mass percent).

Highway Truck & Motor Coach 16,000 km (10,000 Miles)
City Transit Coaches 6,400 km (4,000 Miles) or 3 Months Maximum*
Pick-up & Delivery Stop & Go, Short Trip 12,500 km (8,000 Miles)
Stationary Units, Continuous 200 Hours or 1 Month*
Drain Intervals
When using high TBN/ash oils, drain the oil when the TBN drops to one-half of the new oil TBN.
Since lubricant composition varies from brand to brand the time and rate of TBN reduction
will vary. These differences manifested by the various high TBN/ash oils will influence the
drain interval.
The drain interval may be established on the recommendations of an independent oil analysis
laboratory or the oil supplier (based upon the used oil sample analysis) until the most practical oil
change period has been determined.
If the lubricating oil is drained immediately after an engine has been run for some time, most
of the sediment will be in suspension and will drain readily. Select the proper grade of oil in
accordance with the instructions given. Refer to section 5.2.
13.5.2 Drain Lubricating Oil
Change the lubricating oil as follows:
NOTE:
Before adding lubricating oil, refer to section 5.2 to select the proper grade of lubricating
oil.
1. Position the vehicle or equipment on level ground.

2. If the engine is cold, run it until it is warm. Stop the engine.

USED ENGINE OIL

3. Remove the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan.
NOTICE:
Dispose of used lubricating oil in an environmentally responsible
manner, according to EPA and state recommendations.
4. Drain lubricating oil into a suitable container.

5. Coat drain plug(s) with Loctite 567 sealant, or equivalent.
6. Install and tighten the drain plug to 45-56 N·m (33-41 lb·ft).
NOTE:
Lubricating oil filters should be replaced whenever the engine oil is changed.
7. Refer to section 13.7.2 and replace oil filter.
13.5.3 Leak Check Lubrication System
When engine oil analysis reveals that engine coolant or diesel fuel is found in the engine
lubricating oil, perform the following procedure:
1. Inspect engine lower main bearings. Refer to section 1.10.2.2.
NOTE:
Examination of all bearing shells is required to determine if damage to the bearings
has occurred.
[a] If damage has occurred, replace all lower main bearing shells immediately.
[b] If lubricating oil dilution is detected before the normal engine overhaul period is
reached but damage has not occurred, replace the lower main bearing shells at
5,000 hours.
NOTE:
If lubricating oil dilution is recurrent, replace lower main bearing shells at regular intervals
of 5,000 hours.

NOTICE:
Failure to replace lower main bearing shells as recommended
will allow the crankshaft to operate without adequate bearing
support. This will lead to crankshaft journal damage.
NOTICE:
Coolant leaking into the engine lubricating oil can cause oil
dilution and engine damage. If a coolant leak is discovered
while the engine is still running, thoroughly flush the lubrication
system to avoid damage.
Before flushing perform the following check for leaks:

1. Determine the cause of the internal coolant leak, and correct it.
USED ENGINE OIL

2. Thoroughly drain the lubricating oil. Refer to section 13.5.2.

3. Take a 6-8 ounce sample, and label it for chemical analysis.
NOTICE:
If coolant or fuel dilution of the engine lubricating oil is detected
through oil analysis, the lower main bearings must be inspected
to determine of damage has occurred. Refer to section 1.10.2.2.
The main bearings are more sensitive to coolant dilution than to fuel oil dilution of the
lubricating oil. Fuel oil dilution of the lubricating oil below 2.5% by volume should
not cause any lubricating problems. However, any level of coolant is cause for concern
and requires immediate corrective action.
□ If damage has occurred, replace all lower main bearings. Refer to section 1.10.2.
□ If upon inspection, there is any doubt whether or not the bearings have been damaged,
replace all lower main bearings. Refer to section 1.10.2.
□ If the bearings have been in service for over 5,000 hours when the dilution occurred,
replace all lower main bearings. Refer to section 1.10.2.

□ If upon inspection, bearing damage has not occurred, although a dilution incident
has occurred, replace all lower main bearings when the bearings reach 5,000 hours
of operations. Refer to section 1.10.2.
NOTE:
If coolant or fuel dilution of the engine lubricating oil is detected through oil analysis,
inspect the lower main bearings to determine what damage has occurred.
4. Examine the drained oil.

5. If the oil is still reasonably fluid and is typical of the used oil at regular drain intervals,
6. If the oil is gelled, refer to section 13.5.5.
13.5.4 Draining of (Non-Gelled) Lubricating Oil
Use this procedure if the contaminated lubricating oil is still freely flowing without gelling. This
requires only the lubricating oil recommended for normal operation.
1. Drain all lubricating oil. Refer to section 13.5.2.
2. Remove and discard the oil filters, replace with new filters. Refer to section 13.7.
3. Pressure fill the lubrication system to 172 kPa (25 lb/in.2) with the lubricating oil
recommended for normal operation, ensuring the crankcase is filled to the proper operating
level.
4. Start and run the engine at fast idle (1000-1200 RPM) for 30 minutes to one hour.
5. Check engine running conditions frequently, especially oil pressure; stop immediately if a
reading is out of range.
[a] If reading is out of range, proceed to step 6.
[b] If reading is not out of range, procedure is complete.
6. Stop the engine, immediately drain the crankcase. Allow enough time to drain all the fluid.
7. Take a second oil sample, and label it.
8. Remove and discard the oil filters, replace with new filters. Refer to section 13.7.
9. Pressure fill the lubrication system to 172 kPa (25 lb/in.2) with the lubricating oil
recommended for normal operation, ensuring the crankcase is filled to the proper operating
level.
11. Check engine running conditions frequently, especially oil pressure. Stop immediately if a
reading is out of range.
12. Stop the engine, immediately drain the crankcase. Allow enough time to drain all the fluid.

13. Remove and discard all oil filters, replace with new filters. Refer to section 13.7.
14. Replace oil drains, and pressure fill the engine to the proper level with the lubricating oil
recommended for normal operation.
15. Have oil samples analyzed for coolant contamination and engine condition.
[a] If reading is out of range, refer to step 1 and repeat procedure.
13.5.5 Draining of (Gelled) Lubricating Oil
Use this procedure if the contaminated oil is gelled. This requires the lubricating oil recommended
for normal operation with additional solvent.
1. Drain all lubricating oil. Refer to section 13.5.2.
2. Remove and discard all oil filters, and replace with new filters. Refer to section 13.7.
PERSONAL INJURY
3. Mix two parts of the lubricating oil recommended for normal operation with one part
butyl cellosolve.
4. Pressure fill the engine with the mixture to 172 kPa (25 lb/in.2) until the crankcase is
filled to the proper operating level.
6. Check the engine running conditions frequently, especially oil pressure, and stop
immediately if a reading is out of range.
7. Stop the engine, and immediately drain the crankcase. Allow enough time to drain all
the fluid.
8. Take a second oil sample, and label it.
9. Remove and discard all oil filters, and replace with new filters. Refer to section 13.7.
10. Replace oil drains, and using a fresh charge of the lubricating oil recommended for normal
operation, pressure fill the engine via the oil gallery to 172 kPa (25 lb/in.2) until the
crankcase is filled to the proper operating level.
11. Start and run the engine at fast idle (1000-1200 RPM) for 30 minutes to an hour.

12. Check engine running conditions frequently, especially oil pressure, and stop immediately
if a reading is out of range.
13. Stop the engine, and immediately drain the crankcase. Allow enough time to drain all
the fluid.
14. Take a third oil sample, and label it.
15. Remove and discard all oil filters; replace with new filters. Refer to section 13.7.
16. Replace oil drains, and pressure fill the engine to the proper level with the lubricating oil
recommended for normal operation.
17. Have oil samples analyzed for coolant contamination and engine condition.
[a] If reading is out of range, refer to step 1 and repeat procedure.
NOTE:
This procedure should flush all coolant contamination from the lubricating system.
However, a thin coating from the coolant may remain on some moving engine parts. The
coating should disappear within one or two oil changes.

13.6 OIL PRESSURE
13.6 OIL PRESSURE
Under normal operation, oil pressure is noted each time the engine is started. In the event the
equipment is equipped with warning lights rather than pressure indicators, the pressure should
be checked and recorded.
Refer to OEM maintenance guidelines.

13.7 LUBRICATING OIL FILTER
Lubricating oil filters make up an essential part of the lubrication system. Proper filter selection
and maintenance are important to satisfactory engine operation and service life. Filters should be
used to maintain a clean system, not to clean up a contaminated system.
13.7.1 Installation of Lubricating Oil Filter
Install the oil filter as follows:

1. Install a new filter at regular change intervals or each time the engine oil is changed,
whichever comes first.
2. Fill new filters with clean engine oil.
3. Install the new filters, turning them until they fully contact the gasket with no side
movement.
4. Turn an additional 2/3 turn by hand.
13.7.1.1 Inspection of Lubricating Oil Filter
Inspect the oil filter as follows:

1. Inspect all lubricating oil lines for wear and/or chafing.
2. If worn, replace the oil lines and correct the cause.
3. Check for leaks after starting the engine.
4. If the engine is equipped with a turbocharger, prelubricate it. Refer to section 6.6.
5. If equipped with the governor oil filter, change the element every 1000 hours or 48,000
km (30,000 miles).
13.7.2 Replacement of Lubricating Oil Filter
To replace the lube oil filter, perform the following procedure:

1. Remove the spin-on filter cartridges using strap wrench tool J 29917, or equivalent, and
a 12.7 mm (0.5 in.) drive socket wrench and extension.
NOTE:
Dispose of the used oil and filters in an environmentally responsible manner, according
to EPA and state recommendations.
2. Clean the filter adaptor with a clean, lint-free cloth.

3. Fill new filters with clean engine oil.
4. Lightly coat the filter gaskets (seals) with clean engine oil.
5. Start the new filters on the adaptor, and hand tighten until the gaskets touch the mounting
adaptor head. Tighten full flow filters and additional 2/3 turn.

13.7 LUBRICATING OIL FILTER
6. Add oil as required to bring the level to the "full" mark on the dipstick.
7. Start and run the engine for a short period (at least five minutes), and check for leaks.
8. After leaks have been corrected, stop the engine long enough for the oil to drain back to
the crankcase (approximately five minutes).
9. Add oil as required to bring the level to the proper mark on the dipstick.

13.8 FUEL STRAINER AND FILTER
Replace elements immediately if plugging is indicated, regardless of mileage or hour intervals.

Refer to section 5.3.2.7 for filter recommendations. See Figure 13-1.
1. Fuel Strainer 2. Fuel Filter
Figure 13-1 Fuel Filter Elements
Fuel pressure at the cylinder head fuel inlet fitting and the inlet restriction at the fuel pump
determines the extent to which the filters are plugged.
□ In a clean system, the maximum pump inlet restriction should not exceed 20.3 kPa
(6 in. Hg.)
□ In a dirty system the maximum pump inlet restriction should not exceed 41 kPa (12 in. Hg).
□ On 6V and 8V non-turbocharged engines, at normal operating speeds and with 2.03 mm
(0.080 in.) restriction fittings, the fuel pressure is 310-483 kPa (45-70 lb/in.2).

13.8 FUEL STRAINER AND FILTER
□ With 12V and 16V non-turbocharged engines at normal operating speeds and with 1.78 mm
(0.070 in.) restriction fittings, the fuel pressure is 207-448 kPa (30-65 lb/in.2).
□ On turbocharged engines at normal operating speeds and with either 2.02 mm or 1.78 mm
(0.080 in. or 0.070 in.) restriction fittings, the fuel pressure is 345-483 kPa (50-70 lb/in.2).
NOTE:
Change the fuel filters whenever the inlet restriction at the fuel pump reaches 41 kPa
(12 in. Hg) at normal operating speeds and whenever the fuel pressure falls to the
minimum fuel pressure.
Spin-on type primary and secondary fuel filters are used on these engines. The spin-on
type consists of a shell, element, and gasket unitized into the single cartridge and a filter
cover, which includes a threaded sleeve to accept the spin-on filter cartridge. An optional
fuel/water separator may be installed in place of the standard primary filter.
13.8.1 Installation of Spin-On Type Filters
Install spin-on type primary or secondary filter elements as follows:

1. With the engine shut down, place a suitable container under the filter.
2. A fuel shutoff valve may be installed on the discharge side of the secondary fuel filter.
If installed, turn the handle on the shutoff valve to the closed position (perpendicular
to the valve).
3. Using a suitable band type filter wrench, remove the primary and secondary fuel filters.
NOTE:
Dispose of the filters in an environmentally responsible manner, according to state and
federal (EPA) recommendations.
4. Fill new replacement filters with clean fuel oil, and coat the gaskets lightly with clean
fuel oil.
NOTICE:
Overtightening may crack or distort the adaptors.
5. Thread the new filters onto the adaptors until they make full contact with the gasket and
no side movement is evident. Rotate an additional one-half turn by hand.
6. Turn the handle on the shut-off valve to the open position (in line with the valve).
NOTE:
To improve engine starting, have replacement filters filled with fuel and ready to install
immediately after used filters are removed. This will prevent possible siphoning and
fuel system aeration.
7. Start the engine, and check for leaks.

NOTICE:
Never use the starting motor and fuel pump to prime the fuel
filters. This could damage the starter and fuel pump.
If the engine fails to start after filter replacement, the fuel system will require priming
with tool J 5956, or equivalent. Authorized Detroit Diesel service outlets are properly
equipped to prime the system.
13.8.2 Installation of Fuel/Water Separator
Install fuel/water separator as follows:

1. Open the drain valve to drain off some fuel.
2. Use a strap wrench to remove the element and bowl together. Turn counterclockwise.
3. Remove the bowl form the element.
4. Clean the bowl and O-ring seal.
NOTICE:
To avoid damaging the bowl or the filter, do not use tools when
tightening.
5. Apply a light coat of clean fuel oil or grease to the O-ring seal.
6. Spin the bowl onto the new filter, and hand tighten.
7. Apply a light coat of clean fuel or grease to the new O-ring seal on the top of the filter.
8. Spin the filter and bowl assembly onto the filter head. Hand tighten until snug.
9. To eliminate air form the filter, operate the primer pump on the filter head, if equipped,
until the fuel purges at the filter assembly.
10. Start the engine, and check for leaks. Correct any leaks with the engine off.
13.8.3 Installation of Fuel Pro 380 Filter
Install a new "Fuel Pro" 380 filter element when the fuel level in the see-through cover reaches
the top of the element or after one year of service, whichever comes first.
NOTE:
Filter change intervals may be shortened to conform with established preventive
maintenance schedules, but should never be extended.

13.9 FUEL TANK
13.9 FUEL TANK
Maintain the fuel tank as follows:
PERSONAL INJURY
To avoid injury from fuel spills, do not overfill the fuel tank.
□ Keep the fuel tank filled to reduce condensation to a minimum.
NOTE:
Refill the tank at the end of each days operation.
□ Select the proper grade of fuel in accordance with the fuel specifications. Refer to section
5.1.
□ Open the drain at the bottom of the fuel tank every 48,000 km (30,000 miles) or (300 hours
for industrial applications) to drain off any water and/or sediment.
□ Every 12 months or 192,000 km (120,000 miles) or (600 hours for industrial applications)
tighten all fuel tank mountings and brackets.
NOTICE:
Do not use galvanized steel or sheet metal tanks and galvanized
pipes or fittings in any diesel fuel storage, delivery, or fuel system.
The fuel oil will react chemically with the zinc coating, forming a
compound which can clog fuel filters causing damage to the fuel
pump and injectors.
□ Check the seal in the fuel tank cap, the breather hole in the cap, and the condition of the
flexible fuel lines.
□ Repair or replace the parts, as necessary.

13.10 FUEL CONTAMINATION
The most common form of diesel fuel contamination is water. Water is harmful to the fuel system
and promotes the growth of microbiological organisms (microbes). These microbes clog fuel
filters with a "slime" and restrict fuel flow.
Water can be introduced into the fuel supply through poor maintenance (loose or open fuel tank
caps, contaminated fuel supply, or condensation).
Condensation is prevalent on units which stand idle for extended periods of time, such as marine
units. Ambient temperature changes cause condensation in partially filled fuel tanks.
Mix isopropyl alcohol (dry gas) into the fuel oil at a ratio of 0.5 liter (1 pint) per 473 liters (125
gallons) fuel (or 0.10 by volume) to control water accumulation.
Marine units in storage are particularly susceptible to microbe growth. The microbes live in the
fuel-water interface. They need both liquids to survive. These microbes find excellent growth
conditions in the dark, quiet, non-turbulent nature of the fuel tank.
Microbe growth can be eliminated through the use of commercially available biocides. The
two basic types on the market are as follows:
□ The water soluble type treats only the tank where it is introduced. Microbe growth can start
again if fuel is transferred from a treated to an untreated tank.
□ The diesel fuel soluble type, such as "Biobor " manufactured by U.S. Borax, or equivalent,
treats the fuel itself. This benefits the entire fuel system.Add the biocide according to the
manufacturer's instructions to treat marring units, or any other application, going into
storage. This operation is most effective when performed as the tank is being filled. Add
dry gas in the correct proportions.
If the fuel tanks were previously filled, add the chemicals, and stir with a clean rod.

13.11 FUEL LINES AND FLEXIBLE HOSES
13.11 FUEL LINES AND FLEXIBLE HOSES
Make a visual check for fuel leaks at all engine mounted fuel lines, connections, and at the fuel
tank suction and return lines. Since fuel tanks are susceptible to road hazards, check for fuel
under the tanks to best detect leaks in this area.
The engine and auxiliary equipment performance is greatly dependent on the ability of flexible
hoses to transfer lubricating oil, air, coolant, and fuel oil. Diligent hose maintenance is an
important step in ensuring efficient, economical, and safe engine and related equipment operation.
13.11.1 Inspection of Hoses
Inspect hoses as follows:
NOTICE:
Investigate leaks immediately to determine if fittings have
loosened or cracked or if hoses have ruptured or worn through.
Take corrective action immediately. Leaks are potentially
detrimental to machine operation.
1. Check hoses daily as part of the prestart up inspection.

2. Examine hoses for leaks, and check all fittings, clamps, and ties carefully.
[a] If damaged or worn, replace the hoses, fittings, clamps, or ties. Refer to section
2.21.2.
[b] If no damage is found, continue maintenance check.
3. Ensure hoses are not resting on or touching shafts, couplings, heated surfaces, including
exhaust manifolds, any sharp edges, or other obvious hazardous areas. If hoses are in a
hazardous position, relocate them.
4. Since all machinery vibrates and moves to a certain extent, clamps and ties can fatigue
with age. To ensure continued proper support, inspect fasteners frequently. Tighten or
replace them, as necessary.Service life is determined by the following:
□ Air or fluid temperature and pressure within a hose
□ Time in service
□ Mounting
□ Ambient temperatures
□ Amount of flexing and vibrating
All hoses should be thoroughly inspected at least every 500 operating hours. (1,000
hours for the fire-resistant fuel and lube hoses and heat-insulating turbo/exhaust system
blanket) and/or annually.

FIRE
5. Look for cover damage or damaged, twisted, worn, crimped, brittle, cracked, or leaking
lines.
[a] Replace hoses having the outer cover worn through or damaged metal
reinforcement. Refer to section 2.21.2.
[b] If no damage is found, maintenance check is complete.
NOTE:
All hoses in or out of machinery should be replaced during major overhaul and/or after a
maximum of five years service.
NOTE:
Replace all cooling system hoses in pleasure craft marine engines after 1,000 hours
of service, regardless of apparent condition. Cooling system hoses on commercial
marine engines do not require automatic replacement after 1,000 hours, but should
be replaced at overhaul.
Fire resistant fuel and lube oil hose assemblies do not require automatic replacement after
five years service or at major overhaul, but should be inspected carefully before being put
back into service. Replace if warn, damaged, leaking or brittle.

13.12 COOLING SYSTEM
The basic engine cooling system capacity, (cylinder block, cylinder heads, water manifolds,
thermostat housings and oil cooler housing) is listed in Table 13-3. These quantities do not
include the capacity of the radiator, hoses, or related equipment.
Cooling System Cooling System

Engine
Capacity Gallons Capacity Liters
6V-92, T, TT 6 22.7
6V-92TA, TTA 6-1/8 23.2
8V-92T, TT 7 26.5
8V-92TA, TTA 7-1/4 27.4
12V-92, T 12 45.4
16V-92, T 14-1/2 54.9
16V-92TA 15 56.8
Engine After Cooler Capacity After Cooler Capacity
6V-92TA 0.169 0.64
8V-92TA 0.251 0.95
16V-92TA 0.502 1.90
Table 13-3 Cooling System Capacity
Observe the following caution before checking coolant level.
HOT COOLANT
Check the coolant level daily. Ensure it is within 50 mm (2 in.) of the filler neck or vehicle
manufacturer recommendation. Add coolant, as necessary. Do not overfill.
Check for coolant accumulation beneath the vehicle during periods when the engine is running
and when the engine is stopped.

Make a visual check for cooling system leaks. See Figure 13-2.
Figure 13-2 Visual Check for Cooling System Leaks
NOTE:
In order to ensure the integrity of the cooling system, DDC recommends that a periodic
cooling system pressure check be performed. Refer to section 13.12.1.
13.12.1 Pressure Check
Perform a pressure check as follows:

1. Pressurize the cooling system to 103-138 kPa (15-20 lb/in.2) using radiator cap and cooling
system tester J 24460-01. Do not exceed 138 kPa (20 lb/in.2).

2. Any measurable drop in pressure may indicate an external/internal leak.
NOTE:
Whenever the oil pan is removed, the cooling system should be pressure checked to
identify any internal coolant system leaks.
13.12.2 Fill Engine Coolant
Fill the engine coolant as follows:

1. Fill the system with proper antifreeze and clean soft water mixture. Refer to section
13.12.2 and refer to section5.3.
2. To purge air, allow the engine to warm-up without the pressure cap installed.
3. With the transmission in neutral, increase the engine speed above 1000 RPM.
4. Add coolant as required.
5. Allow engine to cool.
6. Install the pressure cap after filling the coolant level to the bottom of the radiator filler neck.
13.12.3 Drain Engine Coolant
Marine engine exhaust manifolds are cooled with the same coolant used in the engine. Whenever
the engine cooling system is drained, open the exhaust manifold drain cocks.
To drain a raw water pump, loosen the cover attaching screws, and tap the cover gently to loosen
it. After the water has drained, tighten the screws.
A coolant system properly maintained and protected with supplemental coolant inhibitors can be
operated up to the intervals shown, listed in Table 13-4. At these intervals, drain and dispose of
the coolant in an environmentally responsible manner, according to state and/or federal (EPA)
recommendations. Refer to section 5.3.2.2 and use the required supplemental additives or
filter/conditioner elements.

Detroit Diesel recommends replacing coolant at the intervals listed in Table 13-4.
Coolant Type Coolant Replacement Interval

A 50/50 mix of POWER COOL fully formulated With proper maintenance*, coolant can be operated 2
Inhibited ethylene glycol antifreeze and water or years, 320,000 km (200,000 miles), or 4,000 hours,
a 50/50 mix of fully formulated inhibited propylene whichever comes first. At this time the cooling system
glycol antifreeze and water. must be completely drained and cleaned before refill.
A 50/50 mix of phosphate-free TMC RP-329 "Type With proper maintenance, coolant can be operated
A" (ethylene glycol) or TMC RP-330 "Type A" for the life of the engine until overhaul. †At this
(propylene glycol) antifreeze and water. time the cooling system must be completely
drained and cleaned before refill.
A 50/50 mix of NOAT (Nitrited Organic Acid With proper maintenance, coolant can be operated
Technology) coolant and water. 6 years, 960,000 km (600,000 miles), or 8,000
operating hours, whichever comes first. ‡At
this time the cooling system must be completely
drained and cleaned before refill.
* Proper maintenance involves periodic evaluation using Power Trac 3-Way Coolant Test Strips and the addition of required SCA, as
indicated by the test strip.
†To verify coolant acceptability, submit a sample to DDC for coolant analysis every 3 years, 480,000 km (300,000 miles), or 6,000
operating hours, whichever comes first. Submit sample in Power Trac Coolant Test Bottle, part number 23508774.
‡NOAT coolants require the addition of an extender every 200, 000 miles or 4,000 hours. Use 1 pint to 20 gallons of NOAT coolant.
Table 13-4 Coolant Drain Interval
The following pertain to marine engines:

□ Raw Water Cooling System: Drain at the end of each boating season.
□ Sea Strainers:Inspect sea strainers daily. Clean sea strainers at least annually. Clean more
often if surface seaweed growth or water contamination levels are fairly high.
Drain the engine coolant as follows:
HOT COOLANT

2. Remove the drain plugs at the top of the thermostat housing and bottom of the oil cooler
housing.
3. Remove the radiator pressure cap.
4. Open the valve at the bottom of the radiator.

5. Collect used antifreeze in a suitable container, and dispose of the solution in

an environmentally responsible manner, according to state and federal (EPA)
recommendations.
6. Replace all drain plugs, and close any drain valves.
7. Refill the system with proper antifreeze and clean soft water mixture. Refer to section
8. To purge air, allow the engine to warm-up without the pressure cap installed.
9. With the transmission in neutral, increase the engine speed above 1000 RPM.
10. Add coolant as required.
12. Install the pressure cap after filling the coolant lever to the bottom of the radiator filler
neck.
13.12.3.1 Cleaning of Cooling System
Clean the cooling system as follows:

1. Clean the cooling system annually (vehicle engines) or every 1,000 hours or 48,000 km
(30,000 miles) (non-vehicle engines) using a good radiator cleaning compound in
accordance with the instructions on the container.
2. Rinse the cooling system with fresh water.
3. Fill the system with soft water, and add a good grade of rust inhibitor or an ethylene glycol
base antifreeze. Refer to section 5.3 and refer to section 13.12.
13.12.3.2 Inspection of Cooling System Hoses
Inspect the cooling system hoses as follows:

1. Inspect all cooling system hoses once every 500 hours to ensure the clamps are tight and
properly seated on the hoses. Inspect for deterioration.
[a] If hoses are deteriorated, replace. Refer to OEM maintenance guidelines.
[b] If clamps are not properly seated, replace clamps. Refer to OEM maintenance
guidelines.
[c] If hoses and clamps are in good condition, continue maintenance inspection.
NOTE:
Should a daily coolant loss occur, and there are no apparent leaks, gases may be
leaking past the cylinder head water seal rings into the cooling system. Refer to section
13.12.3.3.
All hoses in and out of machinery should be replaced during major overhaul and/or after a
maximum of five years of service.

13.12.3.3 Test For Air or Gases in Cooling System
Perform the following procedure to detect air or gases in the cooling system:
1. Connect a rubber tube between the overflow pipe and a container of water to detect air
or gases in the cooling system.
NOTE:
Water bubbling in the container during engine operation indicates leakage.
NOTE:
Another method for observing air in the cooling system is inserting a transparent tube
in the engine coolant outlet line.
13.12.4 Flush Contaminated Cooling System
Coolant Contaminants may be flushed from the engine systems as follows:

If the engine has had a failure resulting in the contamination of the cooling system with lubricating
oil, the following flushing procedure is recommended.
1. Drain the coolant from the engine. Refer to section 13.5.2.
NOTICE:
If the engine is hot, fill slowly to prevent rapid cooling and engine
casting distortion.
2. Prepare a mixture of Calgon, or equivalent detergent, and water at the rate of two ounces
(dry measure) to one gallon of water.
3. Remove the engine thermostats to permit the Calgon and water mixture to circulate
through the engine and the radiator or heat exchanger. Refer to section 4.5.2.
4. Fill the cooling system with the Calgon solution.
7. Repeatedly flush the cooling system.
8. Fill the cooling system with clean water.
10. Drain the cooling system completely.
11. Install the engine thermostats. Refer to section 4.5.3.
12. Close all of the drains, and refill the cooling system with fresh coolant. Refer to section
13.12.2.After the engine and radiator have been thoroughly cleaned, they should be
reversed flushed. Refer to section 13.12.5.

13.12.5 Reverse Flush Cooling System
The radiator and engine are reverse flushed separately to prevent dirt and scale deposits clogging
the radiator tubes or being forced through the pump. Reverse flushing is accomplished with hot
water, under air pressure, forced through the cooling system in a direction opposite to the normal
coolant flow, loosening and forcing scale deposits out.
Reverse flush the radiator as follows:
1. Remove the water pump, refer to section 4.2.
2. Remove the radiator inlet and outlet hoses, and replace the radiator cap.
3. Attach a hose to the top of the radiator.
4. Attach a hose to the bottom of the radiator, and insert the flushing gun in the hose.
5. Connect the water hose of the gun to the water outlet and the air hose to the compressed
air outlet.
EYE INJURY
NOTICE:
Apply air gradually. Do not exert more than 207 kPa (30 lb/in.2)
air pressure. Too great a pressure may rupture a radiator tube.
6. Turn on the water and, when the radiator is full, turn on the air in short blasts, allowing the
radiator to fill between air blasts.
7. Continue flushing until only clean water is expelled from the radiator.
13.12.6 Reverse Flush Cylinder Block and Cylinder Head Water Passages
Reverse flush cylinder block and cylinder head water passages as follows:
1. Remove the thermostats and the water pump. Refer to section 4.2 and refer to section 4.5.2.
2. Attach a hose to the cylinder block water inlet.
3. Attach a hose to the water outlet at top of the engine, and insert the flushing gun in the hose.

EYE INJURY
NOTICE:
Apply air gradually. Do not exert more than 207 kPa (30 lb/in.2)
air pressure. Too great a pressure may rupture a radiator tube.
4. Turn on the water and when the water jackets are filled, turn on the air in short blasts,
allowing the engine to fill with water between air blasts.
5. Continue flushing until the water from the engine runs clean.
NOTE:
If scale deposits in the radiator cannot be removed with chemical cleaners or reverse
flushing, remove the upper tank, and ream the individual radiator tubes with flat steel
rods. Circulate water through the radiator core from the bottom to the top during this
operation.
In addition to the above cleaning procedures, the other cooling system components should be
checked periodically to keep the engine operating at peak efficiency. The cooling system hoses,
thermostats, and radiator pressure cap should be checked and replaced if defective.
When water connection seals and hoses are installed, ensure the connecting parts are properly
aligned, and the seal or hose is in its proper position before tightening the clamps.
NOTICE:
In order to assure the integrity of the cooling system, DDC
recommends a periodic cooling system pressure check.
Pressurize the cooling system 103-138 kPa (15-20 lb/in.2) using
radiator cap and cooling system tester J 24460-01. Do not
exceed 138 kPa (20 lb/in.2). Any measurable drop in pressure
may indicate an external/internal leak. Whenever the oil pan is
removed, the cooling system should be pressure checked for
coolant leaks.
The fan belts must be checked and adjusted if necessary, to provide proper tension. The fan
shroud must be tight against the radiator core to prevent air recirculation, which may lower
the cooling efficiency.

When the engine cooling or lubricating system becomes contaminated, it should be flushed
thoroughly to remove the contaminants before the engine is seriously damaged. One possible
cause of such contamination is a cracked oil cooler core. With a cracked oil cooler core, oil will
be forced into the cooling system while the engine is operating, and when it is stopped, coolant
will leak into the lubricating system.
Coolant contamination of the lubricating system is especially harmful to engines when the
cooling system is filled with an ethylene glycol antifreeze solution. When mixed with the oil in
the crankcase, this antifreeze forms a varnish which can cause the engine to seize or result in
severe bearing wear.
Make certain that the cause of the internal coolant leak has been corrected before flushing the
contaminated system(s).
13.12.7 Low Coolant Level Sensor
Test the low coolant level sensor as follows:

1. Allow engine to cool to an ambient temperature.
HOT COOLANT
2. Drain the cooling system below the sensor level.

3. Test for a "check engine" light.
[a] If the light comes on, the sensor is working properly.
[b] If the light fails to come on, replace the sensor. Refer to section 2.16.2.
13.12.8 Winterfronts
Blocking the radiator is done to increase the cab heat level and improve driver/passenger comfort
during severe cold weather operation. This practice is normally not necessary with a properly
designed and operating cooling/heater system. Preventing air leakage and reducing exposed metal
surfaces in the driver/passenger compartment, plus the use of properly installed shutters, can
greatly improve the comfort level.

NOTICE:
The heat-dissipating capacity of the engine cooling systems and
related components must be sufficient to prevent the coolant
temperature from rising above 99°C (210°F). This temperature
must not be exceeded under any engine operating condition,
regardless of altitude, type of coolant used, or cooling system
condition. Exceeding this limit can result in malfunction or
serious engine damage.
NOTICE:
Winterfronts (cardboard, canvas, etc.) are not recommended
with any DDC engine installation. Their use can result in
excessive engine coolant, oil, and charge air temperatures.
This can lead to turbocharger surge, poor fuel economy, power
loss, and reduced engine life. Winterfronts may put abnormal
stress on fan and fan drive components, creating the potential
for premature malfunction and/or damage.
If winterfronts are used, they should never totally close off the grill frontal area. At least a 25%
symmetrical area in the center of the grill should remain open at all times. At no time should
the air blockage device be applied directly to the radiator core. The only exception to this is
an approved shutter system.
The user should run qualification tests to determine the minimum frontal opening area required.
The following is some factors that must be considered:
□ Fluctuations in Ambient Air Temperatures and Load
□ Ice and Snow Intrusion
□ Wind Conditions
□ Vehicle Speed
□ Cooling System Degradation
□ Fuel Economy Loss with Air-to-Air Charge Cooling
Under no conditions should engine specification limits be exceeded. All warning and monitoring
devices should be properly located and in good working condition.
All vehicle operators must be given notice to adjust and/or remove winterfronts as conditions
warrant to ensure proper engine operation. This is especially important on air-to-air charge
cooling systems. Elevated charge air cooling temperatures cause turbocharger surging and fuel
economy loss.
Operators must minimize winterfront usage. If used, the grill opening should be restricted only
enough to maintain cab heat. Do not restrict the opening so much that the elevated temperature
turns on the fan.

These engines are designed to operate with 77°C (170°F) or 82°C (180°F) thermostats which,
combined with a radiator or heat exchanger, regulate coolant temperature within a range of
77-86°C (170-187°F) or 82-92°C (180-197°F). Many engines use radiator shutters, clutch fans,
or combinations of both to help control coolant temperature. These "add on" cooling system
components must operate in proper sequence to prevent coolant temperature instability and/or
engine overheating.
A badly adjusted operating sequence can have a detrimental effect on the life of the "add on"
components.
NOTICE:
The following charts give the recommended normal temperature
settings for various coolant temperature control devices. These
settings should not be exceeded, since this will increase the
engine coolant and lubricating oil temperature, possibly resulting
in serious engine damage. See Figure 13-3 and see Figure 13-4.

Figure 13-3 Recommended Settings for Coolant Temperature Control

Devices (1 of 2)

Figure 13-4 Recommended Settings for Coolant Temperature Control

Devices (2 of 2)
NOTE:
Coolant temperature instability will result from improper component operating sequence.

13.13 WATER PUMP

1. Inspect the water pump drain hole every 600 hours for plugging.
[a] If plugged, clean the drain hole.
[b] If drain hole is not plugged, continue maintenance inspection.
2. Inspect the water pump seal for coolant leakage.
[a] Replace the water pump seal at engine overhaul or earlier, if leaking is found.
[b] If coolant does not leak from the drain hole under normal operating conditions, do
not replace the water pump.
Use a new filter cover gasket when installing the filter element. After replacing the filter
and cover gasket, start the engine, and check for leaks.

13.14 COOLANT FILTER
13.14 COOLANT FILTER
Replace the chemically activated element, following the manufacturer's recommended change
periods. The lower corrosion resistor plate (if used) must be buffed each time (discard the plate if
excessive metal loss or pitting is evident) to ensure effective protection of the cooling system.
If the filter is installed on an engine which has previously been in service, it may be necessary
to change the filter element two or three times at intervals of approximately 200 hours or 6,000
miles, or less to clean up accumulations of scale and rust in the cooling system. It is advisable to
drain and flush the system during these change intervals. Refer to section 13.12.3.
Make-up water up to 40% of the total capacity of the cooling system may safely be added before
a filter element change is required.
NOTE:
Sea water must never be used for make-up water in a marine engine, except under
emergency conditions. If it is necessary to use sea water, the cooling system must be
completely drained and flushed with fresh water upon reaching port. The filter element
must be changed. Filters with resistor plates must be inspected for pitting. Presence of
salt in the coolant results in rapid pitting of the resistor plates.
If it is necessary for any reason to drain the cooling system before an element changes, the treated
water should be saved and used again. If the treated water is discarded, a new filter element must
be installed since the protective agents in the used filter will have been partially consumed in
treating the discarded water.

13.15 COOLANT FILTER/INHIBITOR PRECHARGE ELEMENT
Precharge elements provide the engine with the proper charge of required inhibitors and water
softeners at initial fill.
NOTICE:
The element included in each kit will properly precharge the
engine cooling system. To avoid over inhibiting the engine
coolant when the precharge element is installed, do not use
coolant having supplemental coolant inhibitors in the base
formulation or any other coolant additives.
NOTICE:
To ensure proper inhibitor strength, the precharge element must
be replaced with a maintenance element after 15,000 miles or
150 hours of operation, whichever comes first. A new precharge
element must be installed whenever the engine coolant is
changed.
Precharge elements can be operated for up to 150 hours or (15,000 miles), whichever comes first.
At this point, the element must be removed and replaced with a Detroit Diesel Maintenance
Product maintenance element. Refer to section ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.
Replace element as follows:
HOT COOLANT
1. With the engine cool, relieve cooling system pressure by carefully loosening the radiator
or heat exchanger pressure control cap.
2. Close both shutoff valves on the adaptor head by moving the handles at right angles
to the valves.
3. Remove the element from the adaptor head. Dispose of the element in an environmentally
responsible manner.
4. Lubricate the seal on a new element with clean engine coolant.
5. Install the element onto the adaptor head, following instructions printed on the element
or element package.

13.15 COOLANT FILTER/INHIBITOR PRECHARGE ELEMENT
6. Open both shutoff valves on the adaptor head by moving the handles in line with the valves.
7. Start the engine and check for leaks.

13.16 RADIATOR
Maintain the radiator as follows:

1. Inspect the exterior of the radiator core.
EYE INJURY
2. Clean, if necessary, with a quality grease solvent, such as mineral spirits, and dry with
compressed air.
NOTE:
It may be necessary to clean the radiator more frequently if the engine is operated in
extremely dusty or dirty areas.
NOTE:
Do not use fuel oil, or kerosene to clean radiator, this would cause an abnormal build-up
of dirt or dust.
3. Refer to OEM maintenance guidelines.

13.17 TURBOCHARGER AND EXHAUST CONNECTIONS
Inadequate air filtering and excessive restrictions in air and exhaust flows will adversely affect
turbocharger life and performance. Do not permit restriction levels to exceed specified limits.
The turbocharger should be periodically inspected as follows:
Inspect the turbocharger with compressor inlet screen J 26554-A installed as follows:
PERSONAL INJURY
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
NOTICE:
Do not operate the engine if leaks are found in the turbocharger
ducting, or if the air cleaner is not filtering effectively. Dust

NOTICE:
entering the air ducting can damage the turbocharger and the
engine.
1. Inspect the mountings, intake and exhaust ducting, and connections for leaks daily.
See Figure 13-5.
NOTE:
Inspect with the engine running and with it shut down.
1. Turbine Housing 3. Inlet Screen

2. Clamp 4. Mounting
Figure 13-5 Turbocharger Assembly

NOTICE:
Do not attempt to remove carbon or dirt build-up on the
compressor or turbine wheels without first removing the
turbocharger from the engine. Turbine wheel blades must be
thoroughly cleaned. Deposits on the blades can affect balance
and cause premature bearing failure.
PERSONAL INJURY
2. Remove the inlet duct to the turbocharger compressor housing, and check for carbon or
dirt build-up on the impeller or in the housing. Excessive accumulations indicate either a
ducting leak or a faulty filtering system. Remove all accumulations.
3. With the exhaust ducting removed, spin the turbine wheel by hand. For proper operation,
the turbocharger rotating assembly must turn freely.
4. Inspect the compressor and turbine wheels for nicks or material loss. Both wheels are
precision balanced. A broken or bent blade can unbalance the rotating assembly and
shorten turbocharger life.
5. Inspect oil inlet and return lines to ensure that connections are tight and lines are not
dented or looped. Looped oil lines restrict gravity flow of the oil to the engine.
6. Ensure oil inlet lines are filled with oil and clear of the turbine housings.
7. Check the turbocharger housing for evidence of oil leaks.
NOTE:
Lubricant applied under pressure to the center housing while the shaft is not turning may
allow oil to enter the turbine and compressor housings. After the turbocharger has been
operated under load conditions with normal inlet restrictions, oil should disappear.
8. Check the air cleaner element. A dirty element, or one that is too small, could create
excessive airflow and oil pull-over.
9. Oil in the inlet or outlet ducts or dripping from either housing indicates a seal problem
that requires turbocharger overhaul. Refer to section 6.6.2.
Tests indicate that three conditions contribute to internal turbocharger oil seal leaks:
1. A worn or defective seal.
2. Air inlet restriction above specified limits.

3. Long periods of operation with the engine being motored (used as a braking device while
traveling downhill).
Perform the following to confirm oil leaks from one or more of these conditions:
1. Remove the compressor housing, and inspect the backplate for oil.
[a] If the surface is wet with oil, this indicates leakage. Replace compressor
[b] If this test does not reveal leakage, the oil seal assembly is suitable for normal
operation.
Use the following procedure to determine turbocharger compressor end shaft oil seal effectiveness:
1. Determine that air inlet restriction falls within the recommended maximum limit.
2. Ensure the turbocharger oil drain is unrestricted.
3. Ensure the turbocharger has suffered no obvious major damage.
4. Remove air intake ducting. Inspect ducting interior for oil. If oil is found in the intake
system, determine its source before proceeding with the compressor seal test. Remove all
oil from the intake.
5. Thoroughly clean the internal surfaces of the compressor housing, the impeller cavity,
and the backplate annulus with a suitable solvent spray.
EYE INJURY
6. Completely dry using shop air.

7. Spray the backplate annulus with a light coating of Spot-Check developer type SKD-MF,
or equivalent. This surface should be completely free of oil streaks after the test.
8. If leaks are detected, and oil is not entering through the intake duct, the turbocharger
should be removed and thoroughly inspected for damaged components. Refer to section
6.6.2.
9. If leaking, restricted, or excessively noisy and vibrating, remove the turbocharger and
correct the cause. Refer to section 6.6.2.Every 12 months, 700 hours or 20,000 miles
(32,000 km), the exhaust manifold retaining nuts, exhaust flange clamp and other
connections should be checked for tightness. Check for proper operation of the exhaust
pipe rain cap, if one is used.
Check heat-insulating exhaust system blankets for damage daily. Torn, matted, crushed,
oil-soaked, or otherwise damaged insulation blankets must be replaced immediately.

13.18 DRIVE BELTS
13.18 DRIVE BELTS
New standard vee belts will stretch after the first few hours of operation.
13.18.1 Vee Belt
See Figure 13-6 for illustration of vee belt.
1. Drive Belts
Figure 13-6 Drive Belts
13.18.1.1 Adjustment of Vee Belt
Perform the following procedure for adjusting the vee belt:

1. Run the engine for 10 to 15 minutes at 1200 RPM to seat the belts.

NOTICE:
Belts should be neither too tight nor too loose. Belts that
are too tight impose excess loads on the crankshaft, fan,
and/or alternator bearings, shortening both belt and bearing life.
Excessively overtightened belts can break the crankshaft. Loose
belts could slip, causing damage to accessory components.
NOTICE:
Similar size single belts should not be used as a substitute for
a matched belt set. Premature belt wear can result from belt
length variation. All belts in a matched belt set are within 0.81
mm (0.032 in) of their specified center distances.
NOTE:
Replace all belts in a set when one is worn.
2. With belt tension gage BT-3373-F, J 23586, or equivalent, adjust the belt tension as
listed in Table 13-5 and listed in Table 13-6.
Engine One Belt 2 or 3 Belts

6V, 8V 80-100 lbs 60-80 lbs
12V - 70-90 lbs
16V - 90-120 lbs
16V 10 Rib Poly-Vee 310-360 lbs
Air Compressor: Belt tension is 60 lbs (± 10 lbs) for a single premium high capacity belt (0.785 in. wide) used to drive a 12
CFM air compressor.
Table 13-5 Belt Tensioning Values (Fan Drive)
Two 3/8 in. or 1/2 in. Belts One 1/2 in. Belt 8 Rib Poly-Vee Belt
40-50 lbs. 50-70 lbs. 110-130 lbs.
Air Compressor: Belt tension is 60 lbs (± 10 lbs) for a single premium high capacity belt (0.785 in. wide) used to drive a 12
CFM air compressor.
Table 13-6 Belt Tensioning Values (Alternator Drive)

13.18 DRIVE BELTS
3. If a belt tension gage is not available, adjust the belt tension so that a firm push with
the thumb at a point midway between the two pulleys will depress the belt 12.70-19.05
mm (0.500-0.750 in.).
NOTE:
When installing or adjusting an accessory drive belt, ensure the bolt at the accessory
adjusting pivot point and the bolt in the adjusting slot are properly tightened.
NOTE:
Drive belts (vee or poly-vee) should be replaced every 2,000 hours or 160,000 km
(100,000 miles).
NOTE:
Pleasure craft marine belts should be replaced every 1,000 hours of operation,
regardless of condition.
4. Check the belts, and tighten the fan drive, battery-charging generator or alternator, and
other accessory drive belts after 1/2 hour or 24 km (15 miles).
5. Inspect them again after 8 hours or (402 km) 250 miles.
6. After the belts are broken in, check the tension every 100 hours or 12,000 km
(7,500 miles). Adjust, if necessary.
13.18.2 Poly-Vee Belt
Insufficient belt tension may create a high-pitched squeal or rasping sound during engine
acceleration or deceleration.
Poly-vee belts are used with the 50 DN alternator. The 50 DN alternator drive belt tension is set
at 1335 N (300 lbs) during engine assembly and belt replacement. A new belt loses tension
rapidly during the first few minutes of operation.
1. Check the tension after 10 minutes of operation.
2. Allow the belt to cool with the engine off for 10 to 15 minutes before measuring tension.
[a] If the tension on the belt is greater than or equal to 890 N (200 lbs), adjusting tension
is not required.
[b] If the tension on the belt is less than 200 lbs., adjust the belt tension to 890 N (200 lbs).
Periodic tensioning on the belt is required to maximize belt life. The belt tension should be
measured once per month or every 16,000 km (10,000 miles), whichever comes first.
Belt tensioning tool J 39966 is available from Detroit Diesel. The gage is calibrated from 779 to
1558 N (175 to 350 lbs.).

13.18.2.1 Adjustment of Poly-Vee Belt
Poly-vee belts are very sensitive to under tension. Without a gage and proper tension
measurement, the belt tension will probably be too low. Under tensioning wears belts rapidly and
will lead to premature belt failure.
Properly use the tensioning tool as follows:
NOTICE:
To prevent gear breakage, do not let gage handle snap back after
pressing it when not installed on a belt under tension.
1. Fully press the plunger on the belt gage.
NOTE:
The belt must pass between the hook and the leg pads. The hook and leg pads must
support the entire belt width.
2. Use quick release on the gage handle. Read tension on the face of the gage.
3. Repeat the measurement 2 or 3 times to ensure accuracy.
NOTE:
The support legs on the gage should not contact pulleys or any other engine hardware.
NOTE:
Keep gage clean. Dirt will wear out the leg pads.
13.18.2.2 Inspection of Poly-Vee Belt
As a poly-vee belt goes through its natural life, it passes through several phases.

13.18 DRIVE BELTS
After an extended time in service, minor rib cracks may appear, usually one or two cracks per
inch of belt. See Figure 13-7. This condition is considered normal.
Figure 13-7 Minor Rib Cracking
Inspect for rib cracking as follows:

1. When the belt ribs exhibit severe multiple cracking, See Figure 13-8. Replace.
Figure 13-8 Severe Rib Cracking

□ Cracking leads to "chunking" or breaking away of rib material. See Figure 13-9.
Replace.
Figure 13-9 Rib Chunking
Inspect for rib sidewall glazing as follows:

2. Inspect for a shiny surface that is hard and brittle.
NOTE:
This is from belt slippage resulting from inadequate tension, extreme temperature, or
both.
NOTICE:
Failure to correct the cause of rib sidewall glazing will result in
severe cracking and failure of the poly-vee accessory drive belts.
3. If this condition occurs, locate the cause and correct it before installing a new belt.
Accelerated wear on any part of the belt fabric backing, tensile cord, or rib rubber should be
investigated. Causes for accelerated wear are as follows:
□ Drive misalignment - For efficient belt performance, misalignment must not exceed 1.590
mm (0.0625 in.) for each 305 mm (12.0 in.) of belt span.
□ Incorrect belt length
□ Environmental conditions - Temperature, excessive exposure to engine fluids, etc.
□ Abrasive material - Stones, sand, metal shavings, etc.
Inspect for foreign objects as follows:
NOTE:
If the belt contacts a foreign object, premature failure may occur.

13.18 DRIVE BELTS
NOTICE:
Any object protruding into the belt drive path that contacts the
belt will cause belt damage and failure.
NOTE:
Prior to installing a new belt, verify removal of foreign objects protruding into the belt path.
Much effort has gone into each poly-vee belt drive design to prevent noise vibration. Field
problems occasionally occur.
Causes of noise vibration are as follows:
□ Misalignment - This may cause a chirping noise, especially at or near idle speed.
□ Mounting - Accessories must be rigidly bracketed for acceptable free belt span vibration.
NOTE:
Some span vibration is expected during the range of engine speed and accessory
loading.
□ Belt tension - Insufficient belt tension may cause a high-pitched squeal or rasping sound
during engine acceleration or deceleration

13.19 BATTERY
A battery is a perishable item requiring periodic servicing. Only when the battery is properly
cared can long, trouble-free service be expected.
PERSONAL INJURY
system.
BATTERY EXPLOSION
To avoid injury from battery explosion when jump starting
the engine, do not attach the cable end to the negative
terminal of the disabled battery.
Inspect the battery as follows:

1. Maintenance-free type batteries.
□ On a battery equipped with a charge alternator "eye", periodically check for adequate
charge.
NOTE:
If lead acid or low maintenance batteries are used, check the specific gravity of each
cell every 150 hours.
□ Although maintenance-free, periodically remove, check, and clean battery posts,

terminals, and connections. Check connections for fraying loss of insulation
coverings. Repair or replace as necessary.
NOTICE:
Do not overfill the batteries. Overfilling can cause poor
performance or early battery failure.
2. On filler cap batteries, check the level of the electrolyte every 100 hours or every
12,000 km (7,500 miles).
NOTE:
In warm weather check more often since water evaporates rapidly from the electrolyte.
NOTE:
Electrolyte should be maintained according to the battery manufacturer's
recommendations.

13.19 BATTERY
3. Periodically remove, check, and clean the battery post terminals and connections.

4. Replace corroded or damaged parts. Refer to section 13.19.
NOTICE:
Do not allow baking soda solution to enter the battery. Failure to
observe this caution may result in damage to the battery.
□ Keep the top of the battery clean. When necessary, wash with a baking soda solution,
and rinse with fresh water.
□ Inspect the cables, clamps, and hold-down bracket regularly. Clean and apply a coat of
grease when needed. Replace corroded or damaged parts.
□ Use the standard battery test as the regular service test to check the condition of the
battery.
NOTE:
Many electrical problems caused by battery failures can be prevented by systematic
battery service. If however, the battery becomes discharged repeatedly, check the
electrical system. Refer to section 8.1.
If the engine is to be out of service for more than 30 days, remove the batteries and store in a cool,
dry place. Keep batteries fully charged, if possible. Replace any battery that fails to hold a charge.


Periodically check battery connections for corrosion and tightness. If necessary, remove
connections and wire brush any corrosion from terminals and cable ends. Replace damaged
wiring.

13.20 BATTERY CHARGING ALTERNATOR
13.20 BATTERY CHARGING ALTERNATOR
Inspect the battery charging alternator as follows:

1. Inspect the terminals for corrosion and loose connections.
2. Inspect the wiring for frayed insulation.
3. Refer to OEM maintenance guidelines.
Precautions must be taken when working on or around the alternator. The diodes and transistors
in the alternator circuit are very sensitive and can be easily destroyed.

PERSONAL INJURY
system.
BATTERY EXPLOSION
To avoid injury from battery explosion when jump starting
the engine, do not attach the cable end to the negative
terminal of the disabled battery.
NOTICE:
Alternators output wire or terminal is always hot, whether
engine is running or not. Avoid grounding the output
terminal. Grounding an alternator's output wire or terminal,
and accidentally reversing the battery polarity will result in
equipment damage.

NOTICE:
Never disconnect the battery while the alternator is operating.
Disconnecting the battery can result in damage to the alternator
diodes. In marine applications which have two sets of batteries,
switching from one set to the other while the engine is running
will momentarily disconnect the batteries. This can result in
equipment damage.
If booster battery is to be used, batteries must be connected
correctly (negative to negative, positive to positive) to avoid
equipment damage.
To avoid equipment damage never use a fast charger with the
batteries connected or as a booster for battery output.

13.21 ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION MOUNTS
13.21 ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION MOUNTS
Check the engine and transmission or marine gear mounting bolts and the condition of the
mounting pads every 2,000 hours or 96,000 km (60,000 miles), whichever comes first. Tighten
and/or repair as necessary.
Refer to OEM maintenance guidelines.

13.22 ENGINE TUNE-UP
There is no scheduled interval for performing an engine tune-up. As long as the engine
performance is satisfactory, no tune-up should be needed. Check the intake and exhaust
valve clearances every 96,000 km (60,000 miles) for vehicle engines. Refer to section 12.2.
Minor adjustments in the valve and injector operating mechanisms, governor, etc. are required
periodically to compensate for normal part wear.

13.23 BLOWER BYPASS VALVE
13.23 BLOWER BYPASS VALVE
Every 160,000 km (100,000 miles) or approximately 60 months, perform the following:

1. Remove the bypass blower valve.
2. Clean it in solvent, if necessary.
3. Inspect it for free valve operation and piston, piston guide, or sleeve assembly scoring.
4. Repair or replace, as required.

Lubricate the tachometer drive at the grease fitting every 100 hours or 4,800 km (3,000 miles) for
industrial engines and every 300 hours on marine engines with an all purpose grease. See Figure
13-10. At temperatures above -1°C (30°F), use a No. 2 grade grease. Use a No. 1 grade grease
below this temperature.
1. Tachometer Drive
Figure 13-10 Tachometer Drive

13.25 AIR COMPRESSOR
13.25 AIR COMPRESSOR
Maintain the air compressor as follows:

1. Inspect the air compressor daily for loose or damaged fittings, and coolant leaks.
2. Remove and clean all air compressor air intake parts every 150 hours for stationary and
industrial, or 9,600 km (6,000 miles) for vehicle engines. Refer to section 13.25.
3. Remove and wash all polyurethane sponge strainer parts every 150 operating hours or
8,000 km (5,000 miles).
4. Clean or replace the strainer element.
NOTE:
If cleaning the strainer element, wash in a commercial solvent or a detergent and water
solution.
5. Dip the element in lubricating oil, and squeeze it dry before replacing it in the strainer.
NOTE:
Ensure the air strainer gasket is replaced if the entire air strainer is removed from the
compressor intake.
6. Contact the nearest servicing dealer for air strainer element replacement. Replace with the
polyurethane element, if available.
7. Every 12 months or 32,000 km (20,000 miles), tighten the air compressor mounting bolts.
8. If the air compressor is belt driven, check the belts for proper tension.

13.26 THROTTLE AND CLUTCH CONTROLS
Perform the following procedures for maintenance of throttle and clutch controls:
1. Inspect daily for loose linkage and tighten as required.
2. Every 200 hours or 9,600 km (6,000 miles) lubricate the throttle control mechanism with a
No. 2 grade all purpose grease at temperatures -1°C (30°F) or above.
NOTE:
At temperatures below -1°C (30°F), use a No. 1 grade grease.
USED ENGINE OIL

3. Lubricate all other control mechanisms, as required, with engine oil.

13.27 AIR BOX DRAIN TUBE
13.27 AIR BOX DRAIN TUBE
Maintain the air box drain tube as follows:

1. With the engine running at idle, check for flow of air from the air box drain tube every
1,000 hours or 48,000 km (30,000 miles). See Figure 13-11.
1. Air Box Drain Tube
Figure 13-11 Air Box Drain Tube
2. If the tube is clogged, remove tube.

3. Clean the tube, and install.
NOTE:
The air box drain tube should be cleaned periodically, even if tube is not clogged.
NOTE:
If the engine is equipped with an air box drain tank, drain the sediment periodically.

13.28 AIR BOX CHECK VALVES
Every 160,000 km (100,000 miles) or approximately 3,000 hours maintain the air box check
valves as follows:
1. Remove the air box check valves.
2. Clean with solvent.
EYE INJURY
3. Blow out the lines with compressed air.

4. Inspect for air flow after servicing.

13.29 SHUTTER OPERATION
13.29 SHUTTER OPERATION
Check the shutter operation, and clean the linkage and controls every 32.000 km (20,000 miles).

13.30 GOVERNOR, OVERSPEED GOVERNOR
Perform the following maintenance procedures for the governor:

1. Check and record the engine idle speed and no-load speed. Adjust as necessary.
NOTE:
An idle speed lower than recommended will accelerate the engine from a speed lower
than the engine certified speed.
NOTE:
A no-load speed higher than recommended will result in a full-load speed higher than
rated and higher than the engine certified speed.
2. Lubricate the overspeed governor, if equipped with a hinge-type cap oiler or oil cup, with
5 or 6 drops of engine oil every 500 hours or 24,000 km (15,000 miles).
NOTE:
Avoid excessive lubrication and do not lubricate the governor while the engine is running.
All Synchro-Start top switch electric overspeed governors contain sealed ball bearings which
have sufficient grease for their useful life, except Model GT governors. For GT units only, add
Aeroshell® 7A grease (or equivalent) to the open upper shaft bearing every 2,500 operating
hours. Apply grease sparingly with a hand operated low pressure gun. Grease the upper governor
shaft bearing as follows:
1. Remove the governor cap.
2. Apply grease sparingly to the bearing.
NOTICE:
Do not over-grease or use a power gun. Forcing grease onto the
weights and springs will damage bearing seals.
3. Replace the cap.

13.31 THROTTLE DELAY FUEL MODULATOR
13.31 THROTTLE DELAY FUEL MODULATOR
Inspect and adjust, if necessary, every 30 months or 80,000 km (50,000 miles).

The throttle delay system limits the amount of fuel injected during acceleration. It limits the
injector rack movement with a hydraulic cylinder. The initial location of this cylinder must be set
with the proper gage to achieve the appropriate time delay. Refer to section 12.15.
13.31.1 Inspection of Check Valve
Inspect the check valve as follows:

1. Fill the throttle delay cylinder with diesel fuel.
2. Watch for valve leakage while moving the throttle from idle to the full-fuel position.
13.31.2 Inspection of Modulator
Inspect the fuel modulator as follows:

1. Inspect the roller and piston outer diameter and the cylinder bore inner diameter for wear
and free operation.
2. Inspect the lower roller operating surface, the roller pins at the cam pivot, and the cam
attachment to the piston.
3. Replace parts, as required.
NOTE:
The fuel modulator must be set with the proper gage to achieve the correct fuel-to-air
ratio. Refer to section 12.15.

13.32 FAN HUB
If the fan bearing hub assembly has a grease fitting, use a hand grease gun to lubricate the bearings
with one shot of Texaco® Premium RB grease, or an equivalent lithium-based multipurpose
grease every 32,000 km (20,000 miles) for vehicle engines. Care should be taken not to overfill
the housing.
Every 2,500 hours or 120,000 km (75,000 miles) on vehicle engines or 4,000 hours in non-vehicle
engines, the fan bearing hub assembly should be cleaned, inspected and repacked with Texaco
Premium RB grease or equivalent lithium-base multipurpose grease.

13.32 FAN HUB
The bearings in the fan hub assembly should be replaced with new bearings at major engine
overhaul. The hub assembly should be packed with Texaco Premium RB grease or equivalent
lithium-base multipurpose grease before installing. See Figure 13-12. Refer to OEM maintenance
guidelines.
1. Grease Fitting 4. Pulley (3 Groove)

2. Relief Valve 5. Pulley (2 Groove)
3. Fan Hub Cap
Figure 13-12 Location of Fan Hub Grease Fitting and Relief Valve

13.33 FAN (THERMO-MOUNTED)
Inspect the fan drive fluid level as follows:
NOTE:
Current modulated fan drive housings have an inspection plug for checking the fluid
level. Formerly, partial drive disassembly was necessary to check the fluid level. Install a
current drive housing, which includes the fluid inspection plug and a grease fitting for
lubricating the bearings, to update the former units.
1. Check the fan drive fluid level after the unit has been idle for at least a 1/2 hour.
2. Turn the fan drive so that the inspection plug is 19.1 mm (0.75 in.) below the horizontal
center line. Allow the silicone fluid to drain an additional five minutes.
3. Remove the inspection plug.
NOTE:
If fluid flows from the inspection hole, the drive has sufficient fluid.
4. Replace the inspection plug.

5. If the fluid does not flow from the hole, proceed as follows:
[a] Rotate the fan drive downward, and observe when the fluid begins to flow from
the hole.
[b] If the drain hole is more than 50.8 mm (2 in.) below the horizontal center line for
the fluid to flow from the hole, the fan drive should be removed from the engine,
disassembled, and inspected for possible component damage.
[c] Turn the fan drive back so the inspection hole is 19.1 mm (0.75 in.) below the
horizontal center line. Add fluid until reaching the overflow point.
6. Replace the inspection plug. Lubricate the drive bearing as follows:
7. Lubricate the fan drive bearing with a medium consistency silicone grease, such as Dow
Corning® No. 44, or equivalent.The bearing on current fan assemblies is lubricated
through a grease fitting in the drive housing hub. Former bearing assembly lubrication
requires fan assembly, removal and partial disassembly. Install the current housing
to update the former assemblies.

13.34 THERMOSTATS AND SEALS
13.34 THERMOSTATS AND SEALS
The thermostats and seals should be replaced every 384,000 km (240,000 miles) for vehicle
engines. See Figure 13-13. On non-vehicle engines replace every 4,000 engine hours or two
years, whichever comes first and at time of overhaul. Refer to section 4.5.2.2 for thermostat
inspection procedures.
1. Thermostat 6. Washer
2. Seal 7. Gasket
3. Pipe Plug 8. Housing
4. Cover 9. Lock Washer
5. Bolt 10. Short Bolt
Figure 13-13 Typical Thermostat Housing

13.35 BLOWER SCREEN
Maintain the blower screen as follows:

1. Inspect the blower screen and gasket assembly annually on vehicle engines or every 1,000
hours or 48,000 km (30,000 miles) on non-vehicle engines. See Figure 13-14.
1. Blower Screen (Mounted Under Air Intake Manifold)
Figure 13-14 Blower Screen

13.35 BLOWER SCREEN
EYE INJURY
2. Clean the screen in fuel oil, and dry with compressed air.
3. Install the screen and gasket assembly with the screen side of the assembly toward the
blower.
4. Inspect for blower seal leakage.

13.36 FUEL INJECTORS AND VALVE CLEARANCE
Check the injector timing and exhaust valve clearance every 80,000 km (50,000 miles).
Refer to section 12.2 and refer to section 12.3. Emission control relies primarily on the proper
height adjustment between the injector follower and the injector body.
Replace fuel injectors on pleasure craft marine engines every 1,000 hours of operation. Replace
injectors on commercial marine engines every 5,000 hours of operation.

13.37 VIBRATION DAMPER
13.37 VIBRATION DAMPER
The viscous damper should be inspected periodically and replaced if dented or leaking. Heat
from normal engine operation over a period of time may cause the fluid within the viscous
vibration damper to break down and loose its dampening properties. For this reason, the viscous
vibration damper must be replaced at time of normal major engine overhaul, regardless of
apparent condition.

13.38 STARTING MOTOR
Starting motors which are provided with lubrication fittings should be lubricated every 6 months
or 16,000 km (10,000 miles). See Figure 13-15.
1. Lubrication Fittings
Figure 13-15 Starting Motor Lubrication Fittings
13.38.1 Maintenance of Starter Motor
Maintain a starting motor on vehicle engines as follows:

1. Add 8 to 10 drops of oil (same grade as used in the engine) to hinge cap oilers.
2. If sealed tubes are provided, remove the pipe plugs and add oil.
3. Reseal the tubes.
4. Turn down grease cups one turn.
5. Refill the grease cups, if necessary.
NOTE:
Some starting motors do not require lubrication except during overhaul.

13.38 STARTING MOTOR
13.38.2 Maintenance of Starter Motor (Non-Vehicle Engine)
Maintain a starting motor on non-vehicle engines as follows:
NOTE:
The electrical starting motor is lubricated at the time of original assembly. Oil can be
added to the oil wicks, that extend through each bushing and contact the armature shaft.
1. Remove the pipe plugs on the outside of the motor.

2. Lubricate the wicks.
3. Replace the pipe plugs.
NOTE:
The wicks should be lubricated whenever the starting motor is taken off the engine or
disassembled.
The sprag overrunning clutch drive mechanism should be lubricated with a few drops of
light engine oil whenever the starting motor is overhauled.

13.39 EXHAUST SYSTEM
Inspect the exhaust system as follows:

1. Ensure exhaust manifold retaining nuts and other connections are tight.
2. If equipped, check that the exhaust pipe rain cap is operating properly.

13.40 CRANKCASE BREATHER (EXTERNALLY MOUNTED)
13.40 CRANKCASE BREATHER (EXTERNALLY MOUNTED)
The externally mounted crankcase breather assembly should be removed and the steel mesh
pad cleaned in fuel oil annually on vehicle engines or every 1,000 hours, whichever comes
first. For marine engines every 5,000 hours. The cleaning period may be reduced or lengthened
depending on severity of service.

13.41 CRANKCASE BREATHER (INTERNALLY MOUNTED)
In vehicle engines, remove and clean the internally mounted crankcase breather assembly
annually. See Figure 13-16. Wash the steal mesh pad in clean fuel oil. This cleaning period may
be reduced or lengthened according to the severity of service. On non-vehicle engines, remove
and clean the internally mounted crankcase breather assembly every 1,000 hours.
1. Crankcase Breather
Figure 13-16 Crankcase Breather

13.42 ENGINE (STEAM CLEAN)
13.42 ENGINE (STEAM CLEAN)
Refer to OEM equipment maintenance guidelines.
NOTICE:
Do not apply steam or solvent directly on the battery charging
generator/alternator, starting motor, DDEC components,
sensors, or other electrical components. This could damage the
electrical equipment.
Steam clean the engine and engine compartment only.

13.43 POWER TAKE-OFF
Maintain the power take-off as follows:

1. Lubricate all power take-off bearings with an all purpose grease, such as Shell Alvania
No. 2, or equivalent. Avoid getting grease on the clutch facing. See Figure 13-17.
1. Areas to be Lubricated
Figure 13-17 Power Take-Off Lubrication
2. Lubricate the clutch release bearing, and the disconnect mechanical rear drive shaft
shielded bearing every 8 hours or 400 km (240 miles).
NOTE:
The clutch release bearing in the 457.2 mm (18 in.) diameter clutch is prelubricated and
is not provided with a grease fitting, since no further lubrication is required.

13.43 POWER TAKE-OFF
3. Lubricate the power take-off main bearing and outboard bearing, if equipped, every
50 hours or 2400 km (1,500 miles).
4. Lubricate the front power take-off clutch pilot ball bearing through the fitting in the outer
end of the drive shaft every 50 hours or 2,400 km (1,500 miles).
NOTE:
One or two strokes with a grease gun should be sufficient.
5. Every 500 hours or 24,000 km (15,000 miles), remove the inspection hole cover, and
lubricate the clutch release levers and link pins sparingly.
6. Lubricate the clutch release shaft through the grease fittings on the front of the housing.
7. Check the clutch facing for wear.
8. Adjust the clutch, if necessary.

13.44 TORQMATIC CONVERTER
Maintain the Torqmatic converter as follows:

Check the oil level in the Torqmatic converter and supply tank daily. See Figure 13-18. Check
the oil level while the converter is operating, the engine is idling, and the oil is up to operating
temperature (approximately 93°C or 200°F). If equipped with an input disconnect clutch, the
clutch must be engaged.
Figure 13-18 Torqmatic Converter Lubrication and Oil Level Check
1. Check the oil level after running the unit a few minutes.
NOTICE:
Do not overfill the converter. Too much oil will foam and create
high oil temperatures, leading to potential engine damage.
2. If required, add hydraulic transmission fluid type "C-2" listed in Table 13-7.
Prevailing Ambient Temperature Recommended Oil Specification

Above -23°C (-10°F) Hydraulic Transmission Fluid, Type C-2
Hydraulic Transmission Fluid Type C-2. Auxiliary
Below -23°C (-10°F) preheating required to raise temperature in the sump
to a temperature above -23°C (-10°F).
Table 13-7 Oil Recommendations

13.44 TORQMATIC CONVERTER
The oil should be changed every 1,000 hours or 48,000 km (30,000 miles) for Series 400
through 900 converters. Change the oil if it is dirty, discolored, or contains a strong odor.
If the oil is contaminated with metal, contact an authorized Detroit Diesel Service Outlet.
Change the oil more often under severe operating conditions.
EYE INJURY
3. Clean the converter oil breather on the dipstick each time the converter oil is changed.
Soak the breather in solvent, and dry with compressed air.
4. Every time the converter oil is changed, remove the full-flow oil filter element.
5. Clean the shell.
6. Install a new element and gasket.
7. Lubricate the input clutch release bearing, ball bearing, and the front disconnect clutch
drive shaft bearing with an all purpose grease every 50 hours or 2,400 km (1,500 miles).
NOTE:
Grease fittings are provided on the clutch housing. Intervals may vary depending on the
operating conditions. Over lubrication will cause grease to be thrown on the clutch
facing, causing the clutch to slip.
8. Replace or clean the strainer in the Torqmatic transmission and the hydraulic system
with each oil change.

13.45 REDUCTION GEAR
Maintain the Rockford® reduction gear as follows:

1. Check the oil level in the reduction gear every 8 hours. Add oil as needed to bring the
oil to the proper level on the dipstick. See Figure 13-19.
Figure 13-19 Reduction Gear Lubrication Fittings and Oil Level Check
2. Drain the oil every 1,000 hours or 48,000 km (30,000 miles).

3. Flush the housing with engine oil.
4. Refill to the proper level with the same grade and viscosity heavy-duty oil as used in
the engine.
NOTE:
Under severe operating conditions, reduce the oil change period.
5. Lubricate the clutch release bearing through the grease fitting on the side of the housing
every 8 hours or 384 km (240 miles).
NOTE:
The clutch release bearing in the 457.2 mm (18 in.) diameter clutch is prelubricated and
is not provided with a grease fitting. No further lubrication is required.
6. Lubricate the front reduction clutch pilot ball bearing through the fitting in the outer end
of the drive shaft every 50 hours or 2,400 km (1,500 miles). One or two strokes with a
grease gun should be sufficient.

13.45 REDUCTION GEAR
7. Remove the inspection hole cover.

8. Oil the clutch release levers and link pins sparingly every 500 hours or 24,000 km
(15,000 miles).
9. Lubricate the clutch release shaft through the grease fittings on the front of the housing
every 500 hours or 24,000 km (15,000 miles).

13.46 TRANSIT COACH CONVERTER MUFFLER
Donaldson® catalytic converter mufflers are used on many transit busses equipped with Detroit
Diesel Series 92 engines. To ensure efficient functioning of these converter systems, the
Donaldson Company and Detroit Diesel Corporation have developed new preventive maintenance
and servicing procedures.
13.46.1 Preventive Maintenance Procedure Details
During normally scheduled vehicle maintenance, inspect the converter muffler, exhaust piping,
and mounting brackets. Look for leaks, structural failures (cracks), or loose or missing fasteners.
Repair or replace defective parts, as required.
Catalytic converter mufflers are subject to plugging under the following conditions:
□ Engine operation at low load for extended periods of time.
□ Improper engine maintenance.
□ Improper engine calibration for the specific fuel type.Use the following procedures to
check and clean catalytic converter mufflers:
NOTE:
To prevent the reoccurrence of plugging, engine performance concerns must be resolved
before operating again with a cleaned converter muffler.
13.46.2 Check Back Pressure
Check back pressure as follows:

1. Remove the plug from the 1/4 in.-18 NPT back pressure tap half coupling located on the
side of the converter muffler, and install a manometer or back pressure gage.
2. Start and run the engine. After thoroughly warm, run at high idle, no load for 2-3 minutes.
3. Record back pressure while the engine is still at no load.
[a] If back pressure is less than 41 in. H2O or 3 in. Hg (10.2 kPa), continue to operate the
converter muffler without further maintenance.
[b] If back pressure is greater than 41 in. H2O or 3 in. Hg (10.2 kPa), use one of the
following procedures to clean out the muffler.
13.46.3 Clean Out Converter (Muffler On Vehicle)
Clean converter on vehicle as follows:

1. Operate the vehicle with a high engine load (maximum highway speed, uphill, on a chassis
dynamometer, for example) for 10-15 minutes, and recheck the high idle, no load back
pressure by repeating step 1 and step 2 of "Check Back Pressure" procedure.
2. If back pressure is less than 41 in. H2O or 3 in. Hg (10.2 kPa), continue to operate the

13.46 TRANSIT COACH CONVERTER MUFFLER
3. If back pressure is greater 41 in. H2O or 3 in. Hg (10.2 kPa), use the procedure under
"Clean Out Converter Muffler Off Vehicle".
13.46.4 Clean Out Converter (Muffler Off Vehicle)
Clean converter off vehicle as follows:

1. Identify and mark the exhaust flow direction on the body of the converter muffler's middle
(core) section between the V-band clamps. This section of the converter muffler contains
the catalyzed ceramic core assembly.
2. Remove the middle (core) section of the converter assembly by removing the V-band
clamps around the body of the converter muffler.
3. Thoroughly vacuum clean both faces of the ceramic core using a non-metallic brush
attachment.
4. Install the middle (core) section into the converter muffler in the opposite direction from
which it was removed so that exhaust gas flow through the core assembly is reversed.
Apply anti-seize lubricant to the inside T-bolts of the V-band, then install the V-band. Tap
the outside of the V-band clamps with a hammer as clamp bolts are tightened. Torque
bolts to a maximum torque of 200 lb·in. (23 N·m).
5. Repeat step 1 and step 2 of "Check Back Pressure" procedure, and check high idle, no
load back pressure.
[a] If back pressure is less than 41 in. H2O or 3 in. Hg (10.2 kPa), continue to operate the
[b] If back pressure is greater than 41 in. H2O or 3 in. Hg (10.2 kPa), use the procedure
under "Clean Out Converter Muffler On Vehicle".

13.47 AIR CLEANER
See Figure 13-20 for illustration of the dry type air cleaner.
1. Dry Type Air Cleaners
Figure 13-20 Dry Type Air Cleaners
NOTICE:
Reusing a damaged air cleaner element or gasket may result in
inadequate air filtration and severe engine damage.
A clogged air cleaner element will cause excessive intake restriction and a reduced air supply to
the engine. This, in turn, can result in increased fuel consumption, inefficient engine operation
and reduced engine life.

13.47 AIR CLEANER
13.47.1 Maintenance of the Dry-Type Air Cleaner
Maintain the dry-type air cleaner as follows:

1. The dry-type air cleaner element should be inspected every 24,000 km (15,000 miles) for
vehicle engines, or more often if the engine is operated under severe dust conditions.
2. Discard and replace elements used in on-highway applications after one year of service or
160,000 km (100,000 miles) or when the maximum allowable air intake restriction has
been reached, whichever comes first. Refer to section 11.5.
NOTE:
Do not attempt to clean or reuse on-highway elements after these intervals.
NOTICE:
Under no engine operating conditions should the air
inlet restriction exceed 6.2 kPa (0.25 in. of water) for
non-turbocharged engines, or 5.0 kPa (0.20 in. of water)
for turbocharged engines. Failure to follow these guidelines
will result in increased fuel consumption, inefficient engine
operation and reduced engine life.
3. Discard and replace elements used in off-highway applications after one year of service or
when the maximum allowable air intake restriction has been reached, whichever comes
first.
4. Check gaskets for deterioration.
[a] If severely deteriorated, replace the gaskets. Refer to section 6.2.3.
[b] If no deterioration is found, continue maintenance check.
NOTE:
Keep air cleaner tight on air intake-to-engine.
5. Ensure air cleaner is properly assembled so joints are oil and air tight.
6. Inspect air cleaner, intake, or connections for damage.
[a] If damage is found, repair at once.
[b] If no damage is found, continue maintenance check.
7. Cleaning and inspection of the air cleaner must be performed per the manufacturer's
recommendations.
8. Cover gasket inspection and replacement of the air cleaner must be performed per
manufacturer's recommendations.
NOTE:
In cases where the air cleaner manufacturer recommends cleaning or washing elements,
the maximum service life is still one year or maximum restriction.

9. If the dry type air cleaner is equipped with an aspirator, check for aspirator damage or
clogging.
10. Clean and repair, if necessary.

13.48 AIR SYSTEM
13.48 AIR SYSTEM
Inspect the air system daily for leaks. Look for torn air inlet piping or boots and loose or
damaged clamps. Have worn or damaged parts repaired or replaced, as required. Tighten any
loose connections.
1. Where rubber hose from air cleaner to blower is employed, remove hose connections
and cement them in place. Use new hose and clamps, if necessary, to obtain an air-tight
connection.
2. After servicing the air cleaner, remove the air inlet housing, and clean accumulated dirt
deposits from the blower screen and air inlet housing. Ensure all air intake passages and
the air box are kept clean.
3. Make a careful, periodic inspection of the entire air system. Enough dust-laden air will
pass through an almost invisible crack to eventually cause serious damage to an engine.
NOTICE:
Paper element overloading will not cause dirt particles to bypass
the filter and enter the engine, but will result in engine air
starvation.

The closed breather system consists of an air separator assembly mounted to the inlet side of
each turbocharger. See Figure 13-21.
1. Turbine Housing 3. Vacuum Limiter

2. Compressor Housing 4. Air Separator Assembly
Figure 13-21 Typical Air Separator System
To operate efficiently, air separator filters and vacuum limiters must be properly maintained.
□ Clean and oil the vacuum limiter and filter element every 250 hours of engine operation or
once a year, whichever comes first. Refer to section 13.49.1, refer to section 13.49.2, and
NOTE:
Filter elements and vacuum limiters must also be cleaned and oiled any time the
restriction gage shows red.
□ Filter elements must be replaced after three cleanings.

□ Replace vacuum regulator/limiters every 1000 hours of engine operation or every two
years, whichever comes first.

NOTICE:
Failure to properly clean the engine room may allow loose debris
to plug air separator elements. Plugging can lead to high air inlet
restriction, causing reduced engine performance and/or engine
NOTE:
For best cleaning results, and to avoid damaging filter elements, Walker Cleaning and
Re-oiling Kit must be used. Available from Walker Engineering supply distributors or
directly from manufacturer: Walker Engineering Enterprises, 7406 Havenhurst Place
Van Nuys, CA 91406
13.49.1 Pre-Clean Air Separator Filter Element
Perform the following procedures to clean and oil the air separator filter element:
NOTICE:
Failure to clean the air separator filter and the vacuum
regulator/limiter will affect the operation of the air separator
and may cause reduced engine performance and/or engine
NOTE:
A filter that is damaged or clogged with soot due to an exhaust leak may not be able to
be cleaned to maximum air flow condition. Replacement of element may be necessary.
1. Remove filter element from air separator.
NOTE:
Filter elements and vacuum limiters must also be cleaned and oiled when the air inlet
restriction turns red. This indicates the maximum allowable system restriction has been
reached.
2. Tap element to dislodge any large, imbedded particles of dirt.

3. Gently brush outside of element with soft bristle brush, such as a paint brush.
[a] If complete cleaning is impractical at this time, oil and install element.
Refer to section 13.49.2 for oiling procedure.
[b] If complete cleaning is practical at this time, refer to section 13.49.2 and follow
cleaning and oiling procedure.
13.49.2 Cleaning of Air Separator Filter Element
Perform the following procedures to clean air separator:

1. Spray Walker cleaning solution onto element and let soak 10 minutes.

NOTICE:
To avoid filter damage, do not clean with gasoline, steam, high
pressure water or air, caustic solutions, strong detergents, or
parts cleaning solvents.
2. Rinse element with clean, low pressure, fresh (not salt) water. Rinse from clean side
(inside) to dirty side.
NOTICE:
To avoid filter damage, do not use compressed air, open flame,
ovens, or heat dryers. Excess heat will shrink the cotton filter
element, and compressed air will blow holes through it.
3. Shake off excess water and allow element of air dry naturally.
NOTICE:
To avoid filter damage, do not use transmission fluid, motor oil,
diesel fuel, WD-40® or other lightweight oil.
USED ENGINE OIL

4. Squeeze Walker air filter oil out of the bottle and into the valley of each pleat. Make
one pass per pleat.
NOTE:
Filter effectiveness is reduced if the element is used without being oiled.
5. Allow oil to work into element for 20 minutes.

6. Oil any white spots on the element.
7. Install air separator filter element.
13.49.3 Clean Vacuum Regulator Filter Element
The vacuum regulator filter can be cleaned without removing the regulator from the system.
1. Detach filter using a standard blade screwdriver.
2. Refer to section 13.49.1, and follow same preclean procedure.
3. Refer to section 13.49.2, and follow same cleaning procedure.

13.49.4 Clean Vacuum Limiter Filter Element
Clean vacuum limiter filter element as follows:

1. Remove entire vacuum limiter assembly. Do not detach filter element.
2. Refer to section 13.49.1, and follow same preclean procedure.
3. Refer to section 13.49.2, and follow same cleaning procedure.

13.50 AIR SHUTDOWN VALVE
With the engine running at idle speed, check the emergency shutdown operation every 700 hours
or 32,000 km (20,000 miles), or 500 hours on marine, whichever comes first. Reset the air
shutdown valve in the open position after the check has been completed.
PERSONAL INJURY
devices.
NOTICE:
To avoid engine damage, ensure shutdown valve is properly
adjusted. Failure to do so will prevent valve from closing
completely when activated, thus defeating its intended purpose
to cut off air flow to the engine and shut it down during abnormal
operating conditions.
NOTICE:
Do not use the air shutdown for normal or routine engine
stopping. Failure to observe this precaution can result in serious
engine damage.

13.51 COOLING SYSTEM (MARINE)
13.51 COOLING SYSTEM (MARINE)
When a Detroit Diesel marine engine is put into service at the beginning of boating season, the
following preventive maintenance checks should be made to ensure optimum cooling system
performance:
1. If the raw water pump cover was previously removed or loosened to drain the system for
winter lay-up, remove the cover, and replace the gasket with a new one before operating
the engine.
NOTE:
Failure to use a new gasket when replacing the raw water pump cover may result in
pump leakage at engine start-up. This is a change from the previous recommendation,
which allowed reuse of an undamaged gasket.
2. While the cover is off, check the condition of the raw water pump impeller. Replace
if brittle, damaged, or excessively worn.
NOTICE:
Do not over tighten standard hose clamps or attempt to retorque
constant-torque hose clamps. Hose clamps will break if over
tightened.
3. Check the heat exchanger/raw water pump piping and hose connections for tightness and
serviceability. Replace hoses that show signs of mechanical damage (cuts, crushing)
or deterioration (cracks, bulged areas) or hoses that feel unusually soft or hard when
squeezed. Replace all damaged clamps.
4. If resilient isolators are used to mount the heat exchanger, replace if cracked or brittle.
5. Ensure the inhibited coolant level in the heat exchanger tank is at or near the bottom of the
filler neck and the fill/pressure cap is secure before starting. For coolant recommendations,
6. To avoid impeller damage and ensure a full flow of raw water through the heat exchanger
at engine start-up, remove the pipe plug or "zinc" from the raw water pump inlet, and
prime the pump before starting.
7. Check the condition of the fresh water pump drive belt (if used) and any other drive belts
on the engine. Replace the belt if it is cracked, cut, glazed, or has missing cogs. Tighten
reusable or replacement belt to specifications.

13.52 HEAT EXCHANGER CHANGEOUT INTERVAL
Tube and shell heat exchangers are unitized assemblies with no replaceable components. They
can be identified by the barrel-shaped housing at the bottom of the tank which contains the tube
bundle core. In some installations, the core may be enclosed in a separate barrel-shaped tank
attached to the side of the engine. See Figure 13-22, see Figure 13-23, and see Figure 13-24.
1. Heat Exchanger
Figure 13-22 Heat Exchanger (Tube Bundle Core)

13.52 HEAT EXCHANGER CHANGEOUT INTERVAL
1. Heat Exchanger
Figure 13-23 Typical Heat Exchanger
1. Heat Exchanger
Figure 13-24 Heat Exchanger (Mounted)

NOTICE:
Failure to replace tube and shell heat exchangers on marine
engines at required intervals may permit tube blockage, which
can result in engine overheating and serious engine damage.
Tube and shell heat exchangers used in marine engine installations have a service life of 4,000
hours or four years, whichever comes first. At this interval, they must be replaced.
When heat exchangers are replaced, the antifreeze should also be drained and disposed of in an
environmentally responsible manner, according to state and/or federal (EPA) recommendations.
The cooling system should then be cleaned thoroughly and replenished with ethylene glycol-base
antifreeze solution and Detroit Diesel Selected Product supplemental inhibitors in the required
concentrations.
NOTICE:
Failure to maintain inhibitors at required levels can result
in damage to the cooling system and related components.
Conversely, over-inhibiting antifreeze solutions can cause
"silicate dropout", which can plug oil cooler and aftercooler
cores and/or cause hot spots in the engine. Always follow
Selected Product inhibitor recommendations on usage and
handling.
In extremely hot environments, clean, soft, properly inhibited water may be used if Detroit Diesel
Selected Product supplemental corrosion inhibitors are also added in the right concentration. If
water is used, supplemental coolant additive levels should be increased from 3% to 6% by volume.
For detailed coolant and Selected Product additive information, refer to section 5.3.

13.53 HEAT EXCHANGER ELECTRODES AND CORE (RAW WATER SYSTEM ZINCS)
13.53 HEAT EXCHANGER ELECTRODES AND CORE (RAW WATER SYSTEM

ZINCS)
Heat exchanger "zincs" should be checked initially every 60 hours, then as required or annually.
Clean with a wire brush if serviceable. Replace if badly deteriorated. Electrodes are generally
found in the heat exchanger assembly, raw water pump elbows, fuel and/or boost cooler, and the
engine/marine gear auxiliary coolers.
Maintain the heat exchanger electrodes as follows:
1. Every 500 hours or annually, drain the water from the heat exchanger raw water inlet and
outlet tubes. See Figure 13-25.
1. Raw Water Outlet Tube 2. Raw Water Inlet Tube
Figure 13-25 Heat Exchanger (6V and 8V Marine Pleasurecraft)

2. Remove the zinc electrodes form the inlet side of the raw water pump and the heat
exchanger.
3. Clean the electrodes with a wire brush, or if excessively worn, replace with new electrodes.
NOTE:
To determine the used electrode condition, strike it against a hard surface. A weakened
electrode will break.
Maintain the core as follows:

2. Disconnect the raw water pipes at the outlet side of the heat exchanger.
3. Remove the retaining cover every 1,000 hours or 48,000 km (30,000 miles).
4. Inspect the heat exchanger core.
5. If a considerable amount of scale or deposits are present, contact a Detroit Diesel
Service Outlet.

13.54 RAW WATER PUMP
Water leaking from the pump housing openings indicates a raw water pump seal malfunction. The
pump housing openings, located between the pump mounting flange and the inlet and outlet ports,
must remain open at all times. Leaking seals require replacement. The raw water pump body or
liner should be checked for cracks or wear, and replaced if necessary.
NOTICE:
Always prime the raw water pump before starting the engine.
Since water acts as a lubricant for the impeller, failure to
prime the pump (or at least wet the impeller vanes to induce
a self-priming suction) can result in severe impeller damage
when the engine is started. Insufficient raw water flow into the

NOTICE:
heat exchanger caused by a damaged impeller can lead to
overheating and subsequent engine damage.
1. Check the prime on the raw water pump daily. See Figure 13-26. The engine should
not be operated with a dry pump.
1. Outlet Tube 3. Inlet Tube

2. Pipe Plug
Figure 13-26 Raw Water Pump
2. If necessary, prime the water pump as follows:

[a] Remove the pipe plug in the pump inlet elbow.
[b] Add water.

[c] Install the plug.

13.55 FUEL AND BOOST COOLERS
Replace fuel and boost coolers on marine engines every 4 years or 4,000 hours, whichever comes
first. In some applications these are unitized into a single assembly.

13.56 TORQMATIC MARINE GEAR (6V AND 8V)
13.56 TORQMATIC MARINE GEAR (6V AND 8V)
Maintain the Torqmatic marine (6V and 8V) gear as follows:

1. With the controls in neutral and the engine running at idle speed, check the oil level
daily in the marine gear. See Figure 13-27.
Figure 13-27 Marine Gear Oil Level Check
2. Add oil as required to bring it to the proper level on the dipstick, approximately 5.7 liters
(6 quarts) in the M-type and 7.6 liters (8 quarts) in the MH-type gear.
NOTE:
Use the same grade and viscosity heavy-duty oil as used in the engine. Series 3 oil
should not be used in the marine gear.
3. Drain the oil every 200 hours or 9,6000 km (6,000 miles), and flush the gear with light
engine oil.
4. Start and run the engine at light load for three to five minutes.
5. Place the controls in neutral, and run the engine at idle speed.
6. Check the oil level. Bring the oil level to the proper level on the dipstick.
7. Every time the oil is changed, remove the oil strainer element.
8. Rinse it thoroughly in fuel oil.

EYE INJURY

10. Install the oil strainer element.
11. Replace the full-flow oil filter element every time the marine gear oil is changed.

13.57 MARINE GEAR (TWIN DISC 16V)
13.57 MARINE GEAR (TWIN DISC 16V)
The requirements for Detroit Diesel (Twin Disc) marine gear lube oil and filter change are
Sump Temperature, also Oil Sump Temperature, also Oil

Temperature into Heat Exchanger Temperature into Heat Exchanger Recommended Oil Viscosity
(During Start-up) (Steady Operating Conditions)
This operating condition is not
- Below 66°C (150°F)
approved.
SAE viscosity number 40 engine
0°C (32°F) Min. 66-85°C (150-185°F)
oil 1.12:1-2.54:1
0°C (32°F) Min. 66-85°C (150-185°F)
oil 3.10:1-4.95:1
0°C (32°F) Min. 80-99°C (175-210°F)
oil 3.10:1-4.95:1
This operating condition is not
- Above 99°C (210°F)
approved.
Oil Service Class:Use API service classification CD, CD-II, CF-2, CE, or CF-4 engine oil which is certified to pass TO2 or TO4 and
C-4 specifications or meet the requirements of MIL-L-2104E. Engine oil may be used, provided it meets these requirements.
Oil and Filter Change Interval: First oil and filter change should take place after 10 hours and thereafter every 1000 hours of
operation for both filter element and oil, or 6 months, whichever comes first.
Filter Screen: Remove and clean after first 10 hours and thereafter every 1000 hours of operation, or 6 months, whichever comes
first.
Table 13-8 Detroit Diesel (Twin Disc) Marine Gear Lube Oil and Filter Change
Requirements
Maintain the twin disc marine gear (16V) as follows:

1. Check the oil level daily.
NOTE:
The oil should be at operating temperature when checked.
2. With the engine running at low idle speed and the gear in neutral, check the oil level.
NOTE:
Keep oil up to the proper level on the dipstick. Use oil of the same heavy-duty grade
and viscosity that is used in the engine.
3. Change the oil and the oil filter element every 1,000 hours or 48,000 km (30,000 miles).
4. After draining the oil, thoroughly clean the removable oil screen and breather.
5. Install the breather, and refill the marine gear with oil up to the full mark on the dipstick.
6. Start the engine. With the gear in neutral, run the engine at idle speed for three to
five minutes.
7. Stop the engine, and check the oil level.

8. If necessary, add oil to bring it up to the full mark on the dipstick.

13.58 CLUTCH ACTUATOR (DDEC MARINE)
If the engine is equipped with DDEC marine clutch actuator, perform the following instructions:
Daily:
1. Inspect Morse push/pull cable connecting clutch actuator to marine gear selector lever.
2. If cracked, binding, worn, or loose fittings are found, replace the cable.
3. Check plastic cable end connectors daily for cracks or excessive wear.
4. If worn or damaged, replace the connectors.
5. Inspect cable mountings at servo and transmission mount to ensure they are secure.
6. Check servo operation in dry run mode (ignition on, engine not running) for smooth
shifting of selector valve lever.
7. Hit station active button, and observe operating of selector valve when clutches are shifted
ahead, neutral, and astern.
8. Inspect servo mechanical backup solenoid clutch assembly for correct cycle actuation.
9. Release and engage the backup system.
Every Month or 50 Hours or 15,000 hours:
1. Inspect electrical connections for looseness or corrosion.
2. If loose or corroded, replace.
3. Inspect electrical wires for fraying or deterioration.
4. Replace if frayed or deteriorated.
5. Ensure servo base plate fasteners are tight.
NOTE:
The clutch must be mounted securely.
6. Measure actuator servo lever for any change to original setup length.
7. Verify the servo is not over or under stroking the selector valve lever.
8. Adjust as required.
Every 6 Months or 250 Hours:
1. Inspect servo base plate for stress fractures or stress induced deformation.
2. Replace the entire assembly if damaged.
3. Inspect and lubricate cable connector pins with a high quality marine grade grease.
4. Replace pins and connectors if worn.
5. Measure servo valve for any change to the original set up length.

6. Verify that the servo is not over or under stroking the selector valve.
7. Adjust as required.
Every Year or 500 Hours:
1. Replace Morse 33C Red-Jaket® push/pull cables between servo and selector valve.
2. With transmission at operating temperature, verify that the transmission selector valve
shift force does not exceed 67 N (15 lbs.) with cable disconnected and 111 N (25 lbs.)
with the cable connected at the transmission, but disconnected at the clutch actuator.
3. Repair transmission or replace cable if these values are exceeded.


14 STORAGE
Section Page
14.1 PREPARING ENGINE FOR STORAGE .................................................. 14-3

14.2 TEMPORARY ENGINE STORAGE (30 DAYS OR LESS) ....................... 14-4
14.3 RESTORING A TEMPORARILY STORED ENGINE (30 DAYS OR
LESS) ....................................................................................................... 14-6
14.4 EXTENDED ENGINE STORAGE (MORE THAN 30 DAYS) .................... 14-7
DAYS) ...................................................................................................... 14-13
14.6 STORAGE OF BATTERY ........................................................................ 14-16
14.1 PREPARING ENGINE FOR STORAGE
When an engine will be stored or removed from operation for a period of time, special precautions
should be taken to protect the interior and exterior of the engine, transmission, and other parts
from rust and corrosion.
Remove all rust or corrosion completely from any exposed part before applying a rust preventive
compound. DDC recommends processing the engine for storage as soon as possible after removal
from operation.
Store the engine in a building which is dry and can be heated during the winter months. Moisture
absorbing chemicals are available commercially for use when excessive dampness prevails in
the storage area.
NOTICE:
Do not use plastic sheeting for outdoor storage. Plastic is fine for
indoor storage. When used outdoors, however, enough moisture
can condense on the inside of the plastic to rust ferrous metal
surfaces and pit aluminum surfaces. If a unit is stored outside
for any extended period of time, severe corrosion can result.
Detroit Diesel Corporation does not recommend storing an engine (or transmission) outdoors.
DDC recognizes that in some cases outdoor storage may be unavoidable. If units must be
kept outdoors, follow the preparation and storage instructions. Protect units with quality,
weather-resistant tarpaulins (or other suitable covers) arranged to provide air circulation.

14.2 TEMPORARY ENGINE STORAGE (30 DAYS OR LESS)
14.2 TEMPORARY ENGINE STORAGE (30 DAYS OR LESS)
To protect an engine for a temporary period of time, proceed as follows:

1. Drain the engine crankcase.
2. Fill the crankcase to the proper level with the recommended viscosity and grade of oil.
3. Fill the fuel tank with the recommended grade of fuel oil. Operate the engine for two
minutes at 1200 RPM. and no load.
NOTE:
Do not drain the fuel system or the crankcase after this run.
4. Check the air cleaner and service it if necessary. Refer to section 6.2.
5. If freezing weather is expected during the storage period, add an ethylene glycol base
antifreeze solution in accordance with the manufacturer recommendations.
6. Drain the raw water system and leave the drain cocks open.
FIRE
vapors:
7. Clean the entire exterior of the engine, except the electrical system, with fuel oil.
EYE INJURY

9. Seal all engine openings, use a vapor and water proof material that is resistant to damage
by puncture or expansion.An engine prepared in this manner can be returned to service in

a short time by removing the seals at the engine openings, checking the engine coolant,
fuel oil, lubricating oil, transmission and priming the water pump, if used.

14.3 RESTORING A TEMPORARILY STORED ENGINE (30 DAYS OR LESS)
14.3 RESTORING A TEMPORARILY STORED ENGINE (30 DAYS OR LESS)
Return a temporarily stored engine to service as follows:

1. Remove the seals at the engine openings.
2. Check the engine coolant, fuel oil, lubricating oil, and transmission.
3. Prime the raw water pump, if used.

14.4 EXTENDED ENGINE STORAGE (MORE THAN 30 DAYS)
Prepare an engine for extended storage as follows:

2. Flush with clean, soft water.
3. Fill with clean, soft water, and add a rust inhibitor to the cooling system. Refer to section
5.3.
4. Remove, check, and recondition the injectors, if necessary, to make sure they will operate
when the engine is restored to service.
5. Install the injectors, time them, and adjust the exhaust valve clearance.
6. Operate the engine until normal operating temperature is reached to circulate the coolant.
7. Stop the engine.
8. Drain the engine crankcase. Refer to section 13.5.2.
9. Install and tighten the drain plug.
10. Install new lubricating oil filter elements and gaskets.
11. Fill the crankcase to the proper level with a 30 weight preservative lubricating oil
MIL-L-21260C, Grade 2. Refer to section 13.5.1.
12. Drain the fuel tank.
NOTICE:
If engines in vehicles or marine units are stored where water
condensation in the fuel tank may be a problem, add pure,
waterless isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) to the fuel at a ratio of
0.5 liter (one pint) to 473 liters (125 gallons) of fuel, or 0.010% by
volume. Where biological fuel contamination may be a problem,
add a biocide such as Biobor JF, or equivalent, to the fuel.
When using a biocide, follow the manufacturer's concentration
recommendations, and observe all cautions and notices.
13. Fill with enough clean No. 1 diesel fuel or pure kerosene to permit the engine to operate
for about ten minutes.
NOTE:
If draining the fuel tank is not convenient, i.e., marine, use a separate portable supply of
the recommended fuel.
14. Drain and disassemble the fuel filter and strainer.

15. Discard the used elements and gaskets.
16. Wash the fuel filter shells in clean No. 1 diesel fuel or pure kerosene.

17. Insert new elements.

18. Fill the cavity between the element and shell with No. 1 diesel fuel or pure kerosene,
and install on the engine.
19. If spin-on fuel filters and strainers are used, discard the used cartridges, fill the new ones
with No. 1 diesel fuel or pure kerosene, and install on the engine.
20. Operate the engine for five minutes to circulate the clean fuel oil throughout the engine.
21. Service the air cleaner. Refer to section 6.2.1.
14.4.1 Marine Gear (More than 30 Days)
Prepare marine gear for extended storage as follows:

1. Drain the oil completely, and refill with clean oil of the recommended grade and viscosity.
Refer to section 13.5.2 and refer to section 13.5.1.
2. Remove and clean or replace the strainer and filter elements.
3. Start and run the engine at 600 RPM. for 10 minutes to coat all internal parts of the marine
gear with clean oil.
4. Engage the clutches alternately to circulate clean oil through all moving parts.
NOTE:
Torqmatic converter preparation is not necessary on torque converter units.
14.4.2 Torqmatic Converter (More than 30 Days)
Prepare the Torqmatic converter for extended storage as follows:

1. Start and operate the engine until the converter oil temperature reaches 66°C (150°F).
2. Stop the engine, remove the converter drain plug and drain the converter.
3. Remove the filter element.
4. Start the engine and stall the converter for twenty seconds at 1000 RPM. to scavenge
the oil from the converter.
NOTE:
Due to lack of lubrication, do not exceed the 20 second limit.
5. Install the drain plug and a new filter element.

6. Fill the converter to the proper operating level with a commercial preservative oil which
meets specification MIL-L-21260C.
NOTE:
Grade 2 oil is available from the major oil companies.

7. Start the engine and operate the converter for at least 10 minutes at a minimum of
1000 RPM.
NOTE:
Do not allow the oil temperature to exceed 107°C (225°F). If the unit does not have a
temperature gage, do not stall the converter for more than thirty seconds.
8. Engage the clutch, and stall the converter to raise the oil temperature to 107°C (225°F).
9. Stop the engine, and allow the converter to cool to a touchable temperature.
10. Seal the breather and all exposed openings with moisture proof tape.
11. Coat all exposed, unpainted surfaces with preservative grease.
12. Position all controls for minimum exposure, and coat them with grease. Coat the external
shafts, flanges, and seals with grease.
14.4.3 Power Take-Off (More than 30 Days)
Prepare the power take-off for extended storage as follows:

1. Use an all purpose grease, such as Shell Alvania No. 2 or equivalent, and lubricate the
clutch throughout bearing, clutch pilot bearing, drive shaft main bearing, clutch release
shaft, and the outboard bearings, if so equipped.
2. Remove the inspection hole cover on the clutch housing, and lubricate the clutch release
lever and link pins with a hand oiler.
NOTE:
Avoid getting oil on the clutch facing.
3. If the unit is equipped with a reduction gear, drain the gear box and flush with light
engine oil.
4. If the unit is equipped with a filter, clean the shell and replace the filter element.
5. Refill the gear box to the proper level with the grade of oil indicated on the name plate.
14.4.4 Turbocharger (More than 30 Days)
Prepare the turbocharger for extended storage as follows:

Since turbocharger bearings are pressure lubricated through the external oil line leading from the
engine cylinder block while the engine is operating, no further attention is required. However, the
turbocharger air inlet and turbine outlet connections should be sealed off with moisture resistant
tape.
14.4.5 Hydrostarter System (More than 30 Days)
Prepare the hydrostarter system for extended storage as follows:

Refer to section 11.2.3 and refer to section 13.38 for the lubrication and preventive maintenance
procedure.
14.4.6 Extended Engine Storage (More Than 30 Days) Continued
Continue preparing the engine for extended storage as follows:
NOTICE:
Do not apply oil, grease, or any wax base compound to the
flywheel. The cast iron will absorb these substances which can
"sweat" out during operation and cause the clutch to slip.
1. Apply a non-friction rust preventive compound to all exposed parts. If convenient,

apply the rust preventive compound to the engine flywheel. If not, disengage the clutch
mechanism to prevent the clutch disc from sticking to the flywheel.
2. Drain the engine cooling system.
NOTICE:
To ensure that all coolant is drained completely from a unit, all
cooling system drains should be opened. Should any entrapped
water in the cylinder block or radiator freeze, it will expand and
may cause damage.
3. When freezing weather is expected, leave all drain cocks open until refilling the cooling
system.
4. Open the drain cocks and remove the cooling system filler cap to drain the engine coolant.
NOTE:
Filler cap removal permits air to enter the cooling passages and the coolant to drain
completely from the system.
NOTE:
On 6V and 8V engines, cylinder block drain cocks are located on each side of the
cylinder block at the rear, below the exhaust manifolds, and at the front of the engine.
NOTE:
On 12V and 16V engines, a drain cock is located on each side of the cylinder block,
below the exhaust manifold, at both the front and the rear of the engine.
In addition to the cylinder block drains, the oil cooler housing has a drain cock at the
bottom. Open a drain cock in the bottom tank to drain the radiator.
5. Drain the preservative oil from the engine crankcase.
6. Install and tighten the drain plug.


7. Remove and clean the battery and battery cables with a baking soda solution.
8. Rinse them with fresh water.
9. Add distilled water to the electrolyte, if necessary, and fully charge the battery.


10. Store the battery in a cool (never below 32°F or 0°C) dry place. Keep the battery fully
charged, and check the level and the specific gravity of the electrolyte regularly.
11. Insert heavy paper strips between the pulleys and belts to prevent sticking.

12. Seal all engine openings, including the exhaust outlet, with moisture resistant tape.
NOTE:
Use cardboard, plywood, or metal covers where practical.
13. Clean and dry the exterior painted surfaces of the engine, and spray with a suitable liquid
automobile body wax, a synthetic resin varnish, or a rust preventive compound.
14. Protect the engine with a good weather-resistant tarpaulin, and store it under cover,
preferably in a dry building which can be heated during the winter months.
The stored engine should be inspected periodically. If there is any rust or corrosion, corrective
steps must be taken to prevent damage to the engine parts. Perform a complete inspection at the
end of one year, and apply additional treatment as required.


DAYS)
Restore an extended storage engine as follows:

1. Remove the covers and tape from all openings of the engine, fuel tank, and electrical
equipment.
NOTE:
Do not overlook the exhaust outlet.
FIRE
vapors:
2. Wash the engine exterior with fuel oil to remove the rust preventive.
3. Remove the rust preventive from the flywheel.
4. Remove the paper strips from between the pulleys and the belts.
5. Remove the drain plug, and drain the preservative oil from the crankcase.
6. Install the drain plug.
7. Fill the crankcase to the proper level with the recommended grade of lubricating oil, using
a pressure prelubricator. Refer to section 13.5.1 and refer to section 5.2.
8. Fill the fuel tank with the fuel specified under Fuel Specifications. Refer to section 5.1.1.5.
9. Close all drain cocks, and fill the engine cooling system with clean soft water and a rust
inhibitor.
NOTE:
If the engine is to be exposed to freezing temperatures, fill the cooling system with
a solution of water and an ethylene glycol base antifreeze. Refer to section 5.3 and
10. Install and connect the battery.

14.5 RESTORING AN EXTENDED STORAGE ENGINE (MORE THAN 30 DAYS)
11. Service the air cleaner. Refer to section 6.2.1.
14.5.1 Restore Power Generator (More than 30 Days)
Restore power generator from extended storage as follows:

Refer to section 11.1.9 Operating Instructions.
14.5.2 Restore Marine Gear (More than 30 Days)
Restore marine gear from extended storage as follows:

1. Inspect the marine gear.
2. Refill it to the proper level, as necessary, with the correct grade of lubricating oil.
14.5.3 Restore Torqmatic Converter (More than 30 Days)
Restore Torqmatic converter from extended storage as follows:

1. Remove the tape from the breather and all openings.
2. Remove all preservative grease with a suitable solvent.
3. Start the engine, and operate the unit until the temperature reaches 66°C (150°F).
4. Drain the preservative oil, and remove the filter.
NOTE:
A Torqmatic converter containing preservative oil should only be operated enough to
bring the oil temperature up to 66°C (150°F).
5. Start the engine, and stall the converter for twenty seconds at 1000 RPM. to scavenge
the oil from the converter.
6. Install the drain plug and a new filter element.
7. Refill the converter with the recommended oil. Refer to section 13.56.
14.5.4 Restore Power Take-Off (More than 30 Days)
Restore power take-off from extended storage as follows:

1. Remove the inspection hole cover, and inspect the clutch release lever and link pins and
the bearing ends of the clutch release shaft.
2. Apply engine oil sparingly, if necessary, to these areas.
14.5.5 Restore Hydrostarter (More than 30 Days)
Restore hydrostarter from extended storage as follows:

1. Open the relief valve on the side of the hand pump, and release the pressure in the system.

2. Drain, fill, and purge the hydrostarter system. Refer to section 11.2.3 and refer to section
13.38.
14.5.6 Restore Turbocharger (More than 30 Days)
Restore turbocharger from extended storage as follows:

1. Remove the covers from the turbocharger air inlet and turbine outlet connections.
2. Lubricate the turbocharger. Refer to section 6.6.4.
NOTICE:
Before subjecting the engine to a load or high speed, check the
engine tune-up.
After all of the preparations have been completed, start the engine.

14.6 STORAGE OF BATTERY
The lead-acid storage battery is an electro-chemical device for converting chemical energy into
electrical energy.
The battery has three major functions:
1. Provides a source of current for starting the engine.
2. Acts as a stabilizer to the voltage in the electrical system.
3. Can, for a limited time, furnish current when the electrical demands exceed the output of
the alternator.
When selecting a replacement battery, always select one of an "electrical size" at least equal to the
originally engineered battery for the particular equipment. The specifications are listed in Table
14-1.
Minimum Battery Rating Minimum Battery Rating

SAE Cold Cranking SAE Cold Cranking
Engine Model System Voltage
AMPS @ -17.8°C (0°F) AMPS @ -17.8°C (0°F)
Above 0°C (32°F) Below 0°C (32°F)
6V, 8V*, 12V* 24V, 32V 950 1250
16V †24V, 32V 950 1250
* Must use Delco-Remy 50MT cranking motor or equivalent.
†Two cranking motors. Battery recommendation is for each motor.
Table 14-1 Battery Recommendations

When batteries are being charged, an explosive gas mixture forms beneath the cover of each cell.
Part of this gas escapes through the holes in the vent plugs. If ventilation is poor, these gases may
form an explosive atmosphere around the battery.
14.6.1 Repair or Replacement of Storage Battery

14.6.2 Removal of Storage Battery
Remove the storage battery as follows:

1. Disconnect and ground the battery terminal.
2. Detach the cable clamps.
3. Loosen the hold-down clamps evenly.
4. Remove the battery.
14.6.2.1 Cleaning of Storage Battery
Prior to inspection, clean the battery as follows:

1. Clean the battery posts, terminals, and connections.

2. Wash the top of the battery with baking soda solution.

3. Rinse with fresh water.
4. Apply a coat of grease to the connections and exposed metal parts.
14.6.2.2 Inspection of Storage Battery
Inspect the battery as follows:

1. Inspect the charge indicator "eyes" periodically for adequate charge.
[a] If there is no charge or weak charge, replace the battery. 14.6.3.
NOTE:
If the battery becomes discharged regularly, inspect the electrical system.
[b] If the battery is sufficiently charged, continue inspection.

2. Inspect the battery posts, terminals, and connections for fraying, loss of insulation covers,
wear, or damage.

[a] If slightly frayed, worn, or damaged, repair the connections, posts, and terminals.
Refer to OEM.
[b] If excessively frayed, worn, or damaged, replace the connections, posts, and
terminals. Refer to OEM.
[c] If not frayed, worn, or damaged, continue inspection.
3. Inspect the electrolyte level frequently if the battery is not the maintenance-free type.
NOTICE:
Do not overfill the battery. Overfilling can cause poor battery
performance or premature battery failure.
[a] If low, add water.

[b] If no water is needed, continue inspection.
4. Inspect the cables, clamps, and hold-down brackets for corrosion or damage.
[a] If corroded or damaged, replace the cables, clamps, or hold-down brackets.
[b] If not corroded or damaged, reuse the parts.
14.6.3 Installation of Storage Battery
Install the battery as follows:

1. Ensure the battery carrier is clean and the battery rests level when installed.
NOTICE:
Do not over tighten the battery hold-down clamps. The battery
case will distort or crack.
2. Tighten the hold-down clamps evenly until snug.

3. Attach the cable clamps.
4. To make the cable connections as corrosion resistant as possible, place a felt washer at the
base of each terminal beneath the cable clamps.
5. Coat the entire connection with a heavy general-purpose grease.
NOTE:
Ensure the ground cable is clean and tight at the engine block or frame.


6. Check the polarity to ensure the battery is not reversed with respect to the generating
system.
NOTICE:
Connect the grounded battery cable last. This will help prevent
short circuits that may damage the battery.
7. Connect the grounded battery terminal.


INDEX
A
Air Intake System, 6-1
Air Intake System; Air Cleaner, 6-5
Air Intake System; Air Intake System, 6-3
Air Intake System; Air Separator Filter Element, 6-13
Air Intake System; Air Shutdown Housing, 6-15
Air Intake System; Blower, 6-27
Air Intake System; Turbocharger (Airesearch), 6-88
Air Intake System; Turbocharger Aftercooler, 6-128
Air Intake System; Turbocharger Intercooler, 6-120
C
Cooling System, 4-1
Cooling System; Coolant Filter and Conditioner, 4-116
Cooling System; Coolant Pressure Control Cap, 4-63
Cooling System; Cooling System, 4-3
Cooling System; Engine Cooling Fan, 4-66
Cooling System; Heat Exchanger, 4-94
Cooling System; Radiator, 4-50
Cooling System; Raw Water Pump, 4-102
Cooling System; Thermostat, 4-40
Cooling System; Water Manifold, 4-36
Cooling System; Water Pump (12V and 16V Engines), 4-23
Cooling System; Water Pump (6V and 8V Engines), 4-5
E
Electrical Equipment, 8-1
Electrical Equipment; Alarm System, 8-46
Electrical Equipment; Battery-charging Alternator, 8-3
Electrical Equipment; Engine Protective Systems, 8-24
Electrical Equipment; Instruments, 8-20
Electrical Equipment; Overspeed Governor, 8-53
Electrical Equipment; Starting Motor, 8-12
Electrical Equipment; Tachometer Drive, 8-15
Engine, 1-1
Engine; Accessory Drive, 1-444

6SE379 0303 Copyright © 2003 DETROIT DIESEL CORPORATION Index-1
INDEX
Engine; Balance Weight Cover, 1-467

Engine; Blower Drive Gear and Support Assembly, 1-427
Engine; Camshaft Gears, 1-385
Engine; Camshafts and Bearings, 1-357
Engine; Clutch Pilot Bearing, 1-249
Engine; Connecting Rod, 1-307
Engine; Connecting Rod Bearings, 1-326
Engine; Crankshaft, 1-133
Engine; Crankshaft Cap, 1-175
Engine; Crankshaft Main Bearing Shells, 1-178
Engine; Crankshaft Oil Seals (Front and Rear), 1-165
Engine; Crankshaft Outboard Bearing Support (Trunnion), 1-201
Engine; Crankshaft Pulley, 1-236
Engine; Crankshaft Rear Outboard Bearing Support, 1-209
Engine; Crankshaft Timing Gear, 1-416
Engine; Crankshaft Vibration Damper, 1-222
Engine; Cylinder Block, 1-3
Engine; Cylinder Block End Plates, 1-38
Engine; Cylinder Head, 1-47
Engine; Cylinder Liner, 1-334
Engine; Engine Balance and Balance Weights, 1-348
Engine; Engine Drive Shaft Flexible Coupling, 1-254
Engine; Engine Front Cover, 1-195
Engine; Exhaust Valves, 1-102
Engine; Flywheel, 1-241
Engine; Flywheel Housing, 1-262
Engine; Gear Train and Engine Timing, 1-349
Engine; Idler Gear and Bearing Assembly, 1-393
Engine; Piston and Piston Rings, 1-283
Engine; Valve and Injector Operating Mechanism, 1-74
Engine; Valve Rocker Covers, 1-126
Engine Tune-up, 12-1
Engine Tune-up; Engine Tune-up, 12-3
Engine Tune-up; Exhaust Valve Clearance Adjustment, 12-28
Engine Tune-up; Fuel Injector Timing, 12-32
Engine Tune-up; Fuel Modulator, 12-265
Engine Tune-up; Governor Settings, 12-145

Index-2 6SE379 0303 Copyright © 2003 DETROIT DIESEL CORPORATION
Engine Tune-up; Governors With Synchronizing Motor, 12-244

Engine Tune-up; Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor Adjustment (Variable Low-speed),
12-130
Engine Tune-up; Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor and Injector Rack Control Adjustment
(12V and 16V Engines), 12-87
Engine Tune-up; Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor Fast Idle Cylinder, 12-141
Engine Tune-up; Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor Injector Rack Control Adjustment (6V
and 8V Engines), 12-35
Engine Tune-up; Power Control Device, 12-249
Engine Tune-up; Sg Variable Speed Hydraulic Governor Injector Rack Control Adjustment
(12V and 16V), 12-224
Engine Tune-up; Sg Variable Speed Hydraulic Governor Injector Rack Control Adjustment
Engine Tune-up; Static Double Weight Limiting Speed Governor Gap Checking and Setting
Procedure, 12-119
Engine Tune-up; Supplementary Governing Device Adjustment, 12-245
Engine Tune-up; Throttle Delay Mechanism Adjustment, 12-252
Engine Tune-up; Variable Speed Mechanical Governor and Injector Rack Control Adjustment
Engine Tune-up; Variable Speed Mechanical Governor Injector Rack Control Adjustment (6V
and 8V Engines), 12-175
Exhaust System, 7-1
Exhaust System; Exhaust Manifold, 7-5
Exhaust System; Exhaust Manifold (Water-cooled), 7-11
Exhaust System; Exhaust System, 7-3
F
Fuel System, 2-1
Fuel System; Coolant Level Sensor, 2-134
Fuel System; Coolant Pressure Sensor (12V and 16V), 2-142
Fuel System; Coolant Temperature Sensor, 2-140
Fuel System; DDEC II, 2-82
Fuel System; DDEC III, 2-88
Fuel System; DDEC IV, 2-94
Fuel System; Electronic Engine Controls, 2-78
Fuel System; Electronic Foot Pedal Assembly, 2-101
Fuel System; Electronic Governor, 2-413

INDEX
Fuel System; Electronic Unit Injector, 2-56

Fuel System; Fuel Cooler, 2-183
Fuel System; Fuel Injector Control Tube (Non-DDEC Engines), 2-414
Fuel System; Fuel Injector Tube, 2-67
Fuel System; Fuel Pressure Sensor, 2-144
Fuel System; Fuel Pump, 2-150
Fuel System; Fuel Strainer and Fuel Filter, 2-175
Fuel System; Fuel System, 2-3
Fuel System; Fuel Temperature Sensor, 2-147
Fuel System; Hydraulic Governor Drive, 2-372
Fuel System; Hydraulic Governor Synchronizing Motor, 2-410
Fuel System; Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor, 2-186
Fuel System; Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (Variable High Speed), 2-262
Fuel System; Limiting Speed Mechanical Governor (Variable Low-speed), 2-248
Fuel System; Mechanical Unit Injector, 2-7
Fuel System; Oil Pressure Sensor, 2-105
Fuel System; Oil Temperature Sensor, 2-108
Fuel System; Psg Hydraulic Governor, 2-363
Fuel System; Pulse Wheel (6V and 8V Engines), 2-111
Fuel System; Sg Hydraulic Governors, 2-324
Fuel System; Synchronous Reference Sensor (6V and 8V), 2-118
Fuel System; Timing Reference Sensor, 2-122
Fuel System; Turbo Boost Sensor, 2-102
Fuel System; Variable Speed Mechanical Governor, 2-271
Fuel, Lubricating Oil, and Coolant, 5-1
Fuel, Lubricating Oil, and Coolant; Coolant, 5-28
Fuel, Lubricating Oil, and Coolant; Fuel, 5-3
Fuel, Lubricating Oil, and Coolant; Lubricating Oil Requirements, 5-19
L
Lubricating System, 3-1
Lubricating System; Lubricating Oil Cooler (Plate Type), 3-79
Lubricating System; Lubricating Oil Cooler (Tube Type), 3-93
Lubricating System; Lubricating Oil Cooler Bypass Valve, 3-111
Lubricating System; Lubricating Oil Filters, 3-67
Lubricating System; Lubricating Oil Pressure Regulator Valve, 3-49
Lubricating System; Lubricating Oil Pressure Relief Valve, 3-58

Lubricating System; Lubricating Oil Pump (12V and 16V Engines), 3-35
Lubricating System; Lubricating Oil Pump (6V and 8V Engines), 3-11
Lubricating System; Lubrication System, 3-3
Lubricating System; Oil Level Dipstick, 3-116
Lubricating System; Oil Pan, 3-119
Lubricating System; Ventilating System, 3-126
O
Operation and Verification, 11-1
Operation and Verification; Engine Run-in Procedures, 11-51
Operation and Verification; Operating Conditions, 11-17
Operation and Verification; Preparation, 11-3
Operation and Verification; Running, 11-10
Operation and Verification; Starting, 11-7
Operation and Verification; Stopping, 11-15
P
Power Take-off, 9-1
Power Take-off; Power Take-off Torqmatic Converter, 9-3
Preventive Maintenance, 13-1
Preventive Maintenance; Air Box Check Valves, 13-77
Preventive Maintenance; Air Box Drain Tube, 13-76
Preventive Maintenance; Air Cleaner, 13-103
Preventive Maintenance; Air Compressor, 13-74
Preventive Maintenance; Air Separator Filter Element, 13-107
Preventive Maintenance; Air Shutdown Valve, 13-111
Preventive Maintenance; Air System, 13-106
Preventive Maintenance; Battery, 13-65
Preventive Maintenance; Battery Charging Alternator, 13-68
Preventive Maintenance; Blower Bypass Valve, 13-72
Preventive Maintenance; Blower Screen, 13-85
Preventive Maintenance; Clutch Actuator (DDEC Marine), 13-126
Preventive Maintenance; Coolant Filter, 13-50
Preventive Maintenance; Coolant Filter/inhibitor Precharge Element, 13-51
Preventive Maintenance; Cooling System, 13-36
Preventive Maintenance; Cooling System (Marine), 13-112
Preventive Maintenance; Crankcase Breather, 13-93

INDEX
Preventive Maintenance; Crankcase Pressure, 13-92

Preventive Maintenance; Diesel Fuel Contamination, 13-33
Preventive Maintenance; Drive Belts, 13-58
Preventive Maintenance; Engine (Steam Clean), 13-94
Preventive Maintenance; Engine and Transmission Mounts, 13-70
Preventive Maintenance; Engine Tune-up, 13-71
Preventive Maintenance; Exhaust System, 13-91
Preventive Maintenance; Fan (Thermo-mounted), 13-83
Preventive Maintenance; Fan Hub, 13-81
Preventive Maintenance; Fuel and Boost Coolers, 13-121
Preventive Maintenance; Fuel Injectors and Valve Clearance, 13-87
Preventive Maintenance; Fuel Lines and Flexible Hoses, 13-34
Preventive Maintenance; Fuel Strainer and Filter, 13-29
Preventive Maintenance; Fuel Tank, 13-32
Preventive Maintenance; Governor, Overspeed Governor, 13-79
Preventive Maintenance; Heat Exchanger Changeout Interval, 13-113
Preventive Maintenance; Heat Exchanger Electrodes and Core (Raw Water System Zincs),
13-116
Preventive Maintenance; Lubricating Oil, 13-19
Preventive Maintenance; Lubricating Oil Filter, 13-27
Preventive Maintenance; Maintenance, 13-6, 13-12, 13-16
Preventive Maintenance; Marine Gear (Twin Disc 16V), 13-124
Preventive Maintenance; Oil Pressure, 13-26
Preventive Maintenance; Power Take-off, 13-95
Preventive Maintenance; Preventive Maintenance Items Description, 13-5
Preventive Maintenance; Radiator, 13-53
Preventive Maintenance; Raw Water Pump, 13-118
Preventive Maintenance; Reduction Gear, 13-99
Preventive Maintenance; Shutter Operation, 13-78
Preventive Maintenance; Starting Motor, 13-89
Preventive Maintenance; Tachometer Drive, 13-73
Preventive Maintenance; Thermostats and Seals, 13-84
Preventive Maintenance; Throttle and Clutch Controls, 13-75
Preventive Maintenance; Throttle Delay Fuel Modulator, 13-80
Preventive Maintenance; Torqmatic Converter, 13-97
Preventive Maintenance; Torqmatic Marine Gear (6V and 8V), 13-122
Preventive Maintenance; Transit Coach Converter Muffler, 13-101

Preventive Maintenance; Turbocharger and Exhaust Connections, 13-54

Preventive Maintenance; Vibration Damper, 13-88
Preventive Maintenance; Water Pump, 13-49
S
Special Equipment, 10-1
Special Equipment; Air Compressor, 10-3
Special Equipment; Engine Block Heater, 10-9
Special Equipment; Transmissions, 10-10
Storage, 14-1
Storage; Extended Engine Storage (More Than 30 Days), 14-7
Storage; Preparing Engine, 14-3
Storage; Restoring A Temporarily Stored Engine (30 Days or Less), 14-6
Storage; Restoring an Extended Storage Engine (More Than 30 Days), 14-13
Storage; Storage, 14-16
Storage; Temporary Engine Storage (30 Days or Less), 14-4


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SERIES 92 SERVICE MANUAL

Modifications to this manual are announced in the form of Service Information

All information subject to change without notice.

All information subject to change without notice.

GENERAL INFORMATION ...................................................................... 1

All information subject to change without notice.

1.17 CLUTCH PILOT BEARING ...................................................................... 1-249

All information subject to change without notice.

2.27 VARIABLE SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR .................................... 2-271

All information subject to change without notice.

6.6 TURBOCHARGER (AIRESEARCH) ........................................................ 6-88

All information subject to change without notice.

12.10 VARIABLE SPEED MECHANICAL GOVERNOR INJECTOR RACK

All information subject to change without notice.

13.33 FAN (THERMO-MOUNTED) .................................................................... 13-83

All information subject to change without notice.

Consider the following before servicing engines:

All information subject to change without notice.

All information subject to change without notice.

DECIMAL AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS ................................................... 31

All information subject to change without notice.

SCOPE AND USE OF THIS MANUAL

□ Always start and operate the engine in a well ventilated area.

All information subject to change without notice.

All information subject to change without notice.

All information subject to change without notice.

□ Wiping up oil spills.

□ Install all safety devices, guards, or shields.

All information subject to change without notice.

Fluids and Pressure

Be extremely careful when dealing with fluids under pressure.

All information subject to change without notice.

BATTERY EXPLOSION AND ACID BURN

All information subject to change without notice.

Working on a Running Engine

All information subject to change without notice.

All information subject to change without notice.

FIRE, EXPLOSION AND TOXICITY

FLUOROELASTOMER (VITON) CAUTION

Observe the following caution when handling fluoroelastomer.

All information subject to change without notice.

SERVICE PARTS AVAILABILITY

CLEARANCE AND TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

All information subject to change without notice.

THE TWO CYCLE PRINCIPLE FOR DIESEL ENGINES

Figure 1 The Two-Stroke Cylinder Engine

All information subject to change without notice.

All information subject to change without notice.

Figure 2 Views From Rear of Engine

All information subject to change without notice.

DDEC DIAGNOSTIC READER CAUTION

Diagnosis of the engine or electronics system of a DDEC-equipped vehicle, vessel, or wheeled

All information subject to change without notice.

All information subject to change without notice.

All information subject to change without notice.

Figure 5 DECC III

All information subject to change without notice.

Engine 2 Cycle 2 Cycle 2 Cycle 2 Cycle

Table 1 General Specifications for the Series 92 Engine

All information subject to change without notice.