I was the first Black Head of Beauty Buying for a luxury retailer in the UK. Realistically, it will be a far bigger territory than just the UK. Being the “first” is something we’re encouraged to be proud of, and I am. But it’s also deeply disappointing that it took until 2022 for a Black person to have my position. In over 99% of my meetings with brand partners, I was the only person of colour in the room. With 170+ partners and an average of 4-5 brand representatives present in each meeting, I’ll let you do the maths. In several bi-annual strategy meetings with global brands I’d be shown products and campaigns that were “universally flattering” but categorically wouldn’t work on my hair texture or complexion, let alone someone with a deeper skin tone. As you can imagine, I would always challenge and push back. The noise around diversity, inclusion and allyship seems to have gone silent but the economic and social repercussions are growing deafeningly louder. Having an internal Black History Month party and a social media post means nothing if there are no tangible plans to foster or promote the existing Black workforce. In a talent pool that is already smaller, that talent can’t just be embraced, it has to be nurtured. So yes, here's to more "firsts" but true progress will look like Black leadership being the norm rather than a rarity.
I couldn't agree more with everything you have said. The silence is so loud around diversity at the moment which is really upsetting. I recently made a post speaking about how essential it is for companies to be thinking about BHM months in advance or being able to support Black individuals or companies outside of the celebration month. You're doing amazing, follow you on Instagram and it's nice to see a buyer who is present, sharing her views as well as smashing it in her role. 🥳
Hi Rhea - have a look at what Nnenna O. is doing at 100 Allies - same viewpoint and taking action with this new network and initiative
And when we look at the talent, let’s look at it in the whole chain. Walking into a board room where the black leadership is the norm, still does not make the beauty sector fully inclusive. Did you all ever look in the R&D files? The beautiful ads show a beautiful variaty of models, but the products they are portraying has not even been tested on their hair or skin. The ingredients sheets show no results of test done of a variety of skin tones. But when you look at the website and the people working in the company of the brand… we give applause for their D&I 🙈 So please, great empowering ladies like your self, please keep up speaking your mind on this topic. We need this so much. Thanks for your words 🙏🏽
RHEA! “Having an internal Black History Month party and a social media post means nothing if there are no tangible plans to foster or promote the existing Black workforce.” 📣A little louder for the people in the back
Totally agree. There is clear push-back from some elements of society that allyship is disfavouring white people, but it is also clear that business leaders and funders are under-using the talent and energy of Black employees and entrepreneurs. Well done for taking a lead- more will follow!
"In a talent pool that is already smaller, that talent can’t just be embraced, it has to be nurtured" - Thank you!
Rhea Cartwright I’m glad you’re proud to be the first and you are right - you shouldn’t have been the first. There are so many major cosmetic brands where the senior leadership teams are formed of white middle aged men in grey suits who do not represent the demographic of users. Keep being the role model for future potential leaders in business. You are needed! I think you should talk to Danielle Bridge and see what could be done to share your journey and inspire other young women of colour who may not see role models like you to know it is possible.
Rhea, you are truly one in a million. I can speak from experience, you really went to bat for brands like mine, you were/are extremely supportive and kind. I am 100% sure you will move on up to even greater heights. Onwards Rhea, onwards ❤️🙏🏾
Founder @CANDLEMELEON
5moUnfortunately the issues surrounding this are widespread at every junction of the chain from the head of departments to the junior buyers. I’ve had meetings/introductions of my own brand where I get the feeling that the buyers are looking at me as if I don’t belong there. What we need is for accountability to be placed forefront in the conversation. There are so many incredible Black owned brands (not specifically catering to that demographic) who don’t even get a look in. Just a question. How many did you introduce whilst at your last place?