Journal of Ethnopharmacology ∎ (∎∎∎∎) ∎∎∎–∎∎∎

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Journal of Ethnopharmacology
journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/jep

Prevention of UV radiation-induced cutaneous photoaging in mice by

topical administration of patchouli oil
Rong-Feng Lin 1, Xue-Xuan Feng 1, Chu-Wen Li 1, Xiao-Jun Zhang, Xiu-Ting Yu,
Jiu-Yao Zhou, Xie Zhang, You-Liang Xie, Zi-Ren Su n, Janis Ya-Xian Zhan n
School of Chinese Materia Medica, Guangzhou University of Chinese Medicine, Guangzhou, People's Republic of China

art ic l e i nf o a b s t r a c t

Article history: Ethnopharmacological relevance: Pogostemon cablin has been widely used in traditional Chinese medicine
Received 31 January 2014 for the treatment of many diseases, including skin disorders. In the skin beauty and care prescriptions,
Received in revised form Pogostemon cablin is one of the top ten frequently used traditional Chinese medicines.
20 March 2014
Aim of the study: The present study was aimed to investigate the protective effects of the essential oil of
Accepted 9 April 2014
Pogostemon cablin (patchouli oil, PO) against UV-induced skin photoaging in mice.
Materials and methods: To ensure the quality of PO, the chemical compositions of PO were identified, and
Keywords: the content of its chemical marker patchouli alcohol was determined, which was around 28.2% (g/g) in
Skin photoaging PO. During the experiment period, the dorsal depilated skin of mice was treated with PO for two hours
Ultraviolet rays
prior to UV irradiation. Then the protective effects of PO on UV-induced skin photoaging were
Oxidative damage
determined by macroscopic and histological evaluations, skin elastic test, collagen content determination
Patchouli oil
Antioxidant and biochemical assays of malondiaidehyde (MDA) content, activities of anti-oxidative indicators
including superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), and catalase (CAT).
Results: Compared to UV exposure groups, present results showed that topical administration of PO,
especially at dose of 6 mg/mouse and 9 mg/mouse, significantly inhibited the increase in skin wrinkle
formation, alleviated the reduction in skin elasticity and increased the collagen content by about 21.9%
and 26.3%, respectively. We also found that application of 6–9 mg/mouse PO could not only decrease the
epidermal thickness by about 32.6%, but also prevent the UV-induced disruption of collagen fibers and
elastic fibers. Furthermore, the content of MDA was decreased by almost 26.5% and activities of SOD,
GSH-Px and CAT were significantly up-regulated after the treatment of PO.
Conclusion: Results of present study revealed that PO was capable of maintaining skin structural
integrity caused by UV irradiation and it was useful in preventing photoaging. These protective effects
of PO were possibly due to its anti-oxidative property. Therefore, we suggested that PO should be viewed
as a potential therapeutic agent for preventing photoaging.
& 2014 Elsevier Ireland Ltd. All rights reserved.

1. Introduction In particular, chronic exposure to UV radiation results in promi-

nent histological changes in the extracellular matrix (ECM) of
Photoaging is a process of premature aging of the skin attrib- the connective tissue, reflecting a clinically photoaged skin with
uted to continuous and long-term exposure to solar ultraviolet disintegration of elastic fibers and excessive deposition of abnor-
(UV) radiation including UVA (400–320 nm) and UVB (320– mal collagen (Yaar and Gilchrest, 2007). The unifying pathogenic
280 nm) (Fisher et al., 2002), which is clinically characterized by agent for these changes is UV-generated high level of reactive
sunburn, coarse wrinkling, loss of elasticity and actinic keratosis. oxygen species (ROS) (Yaar and Gilchrest, 2007). The dramatically
increased ROS will not only induce lipid peroxidation in fibroblasts
cells and trigger a cascade of signal transduction pathways (Pillai
n
Correspondence to: School of Chinese Materia Medica, Guangzhou University of et al., 2005; Ngo et al., 2011), but also deplete skin's antioxidant
Chinese Medicine, 232 Wai Huan Dong Road, Guangzhou Higher Education Mega enzymes such as superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT) and
Center, Guangzhou 510006, People's Republic of China. Tel.: þ 86 20 3935 8517; glutathion peroxidase (GSH-Px) (Pillai et al., 2005). If these
fax: þ86 20 3935 6390. enzymes are overwhelmed, there will be extra free radicals that
E-mail addresses: [email protected] (Z.-R. Su),
[email protected] (J.-X. Zhan).
can stimulate generation of matrix metalloproteinases, suppress
1
Rong-Feng Lin, Xue-Xuan Feng and Chu-Wen Li contributed equally to collagen gene expression, and consequently lead abnormal matrix
this work. degradation, which eventually result in sagging and wrinkle formation

http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2014.04.020
0378-8741/& 2014 Elsevier Ireland Ltd. All rights reserved.

Please cite this article as: Lin, R.-F., et al., Prevention of UV radiation-induced cutaneous photoaging in mice by topical administration of
patchouli oil. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2014.04.020i
2 R.-F. Lin et al. / Journal of Ethnopharmacology ∎ (∎∎∎∎) ∎∎∎–∎∎∎

(Pillai et al., 2005; Kim et al., 2009). Hence, according to the under- diluted with n-hexane (10 mg/ml) prior to injection. Helium was used
standing that enzymatic antioxidant defense systems may regulate as carrier gas at a constant flow rate of 1 ml/min with split ratio 10:1.
ROS and scavenge free radicals, treatment with antioxidants DB-5 ms, 30 m  0.32 mm ID  0.25 μm capillary column (Agilent
is believed to be an effective approach to prevent skin from photo Corporation, Santa Clara, CA, USA) was used. Oven temperature
damage. program was initiated at 180 1C, held for 10 min then raised at 5 1C/
Herba Pogostemonis is the dried aerial of Pogostemon cablin min to 230 1C, held for 3 min with injector temperature 280 1C and
(Blanco) Benth. (Labiatae), which is native to tropical regions of detector temperature 280 1C. Octadecane solution (1.5 mg/ml) was
Asia and is now extensively cultivated in China, Indonesia, India used as the internal standard (China Pharmacopoeia Committee,
and Malaysia (Liu et al., 2009). It is commonly used as traditional 2010).
Chinese medicine for centuries not only to cure exogenous fever, Further, the chemical compositions of PO were analyzed by a
hypertension, diabetes and diarrhea, but also to cure facial gas chromatography with mass spectrometry detector (GC–MS). It
diseases according to the ancient Chinese medical books such as was performed on Agilent 6890-5975 model gas chromatograph–
yv yao yuan fang (YuuKo, 2009; Li et al., 2011, 2012; Xian et al., mass spectrometer (Agilent Corporation, Santa Clara, CA, USA) and
2011). Importantly, in the skin beauty and care prescriptions, fitted with a non-polar column of HP-5MS (30 m  0.25 mm
Pogostemon cablin is one of the top ten frequently used traditional ID  0.25 μm). The essential oil samples were diluted with n-
Chinese medicines (YuuKo, 2009). The dry leaves of Pogostemon hexane at a ratio of 1:6 prior to injection. The carrier gas was
cablin on hydrodistillation give an essential oil known as patchouli helium at a constant flow rate of 1 ml/min with split ratio 60:1;
oil (PO). To date, PO becomes one of the most important ingre- and the injector temperature was 280 1C. The temperature was
dients of cosmetic products due to its herbaceous notes and programmed from 140 1C to 160 1C at a rate of 1 1C/min, and then
fixative properties. Pharmacological studies have showed that PO raised to 230 1C at 5 1C/min. Thereafter, the conditions were held
contains various bioactive components to exhibit anti-allergic and for 20 min. The mass spectrometer measurement was scanned
anti-acne activities, antibacterial activity on skin, as well as anti- from 50 to 400 m/z. The ionization source temperature was 280 1C.
oxidative and anti-inflammatory effects (DePo Yang, 1998, 2000; The injection volume was 1 μl. Individual compounds were
Liu et al., 2009; Kim et al., 2010; Xian et al., 2011; Li et al., 2012). identified through comparison of substance mass spectrum with
Wei and Shibamoto have reported that PO inhibited the oxidation the NIST database.
of hexanal to hexanoic acid and scavenged DPPH free radicals (Wei
and Shibamoto, 2007). Kim and Cho et al. have also revealed that
PO could effectively protect human neuroglioma cell line A172
against both the necrotic and apoptotic cell death induced by ROS 2.3. Grouping of animals
as a powerful ROS scavenger (Kim et al., 2010). Chemically, PO
mainly possesses terpenoids. Among them, sesquiterpenes com- Sixty three female Kunming mice (20–22 g) were obtained
pounds can block the signaling pathways involved in oxidative from the animal center of Guangzhou University of Chinese
stress so that protect cell components from the harmful actions of Medicine (Guangzhou, China). All animals received humane care
free radicals (Murakami, 2009; Ghantous et al., 2010; Manoj et al., in accordance with the Guide for the Care and Use of Laboratory
2012). However, to the best of our knowledges, no previous studies Animals, published by the US National Institution of Health. All
have proved the anti-oxidant properties of PO against UV-caused experimental protocols were approved by the Committee for
photoaging. Animal Care and Use at Guangzhou University of Chinese Medicine
The present study aimed to investigate whether topically with reference to the European Community guidelines and the
applied with PO could alleviate UV-induced phothoaging by regulations of the National Institute of Health of USA (Approval
macroscopic, histological and collagen content evaluations, and number SCXK (Guangzhou)-2008–0020).
to determine whether PO could attenuate oxidative stress by The mice were maintained under a natural light/dark cycle and
testing MDA content and activities of various oxidative indicators housed in a room with controlled temperature (237 2 1C) and
such as SOD, CAT and GSH-Px. humidity (50% 710%). The mice were fed with food and water ad
libitum and were acclimatized for one week before the experi-
ment. At the beginning of the experiment, mice were randomly
2. Materials and methods
divided into seven groups with nine mice each (Table 1). Dorsal
skins were shaved with lady shavers (Philipss) for 2.5  3 cm2
2.1. Materials and chemicals
after the mice were anesthetized by ether inhalation. Thereafter,
the shaving was performed as required.
Patchouli oil (PO), was purchased from Nanhai Zhongnan Co.,
Ltd. (Lot 121101, Foshan, China). PO was dissolved in ethanol-
propylene glycol (2:8, v/v) to yield three different concentrations:
25 mg/ml, 50 mg/ml and 100 mg/ml. Table1
Commercial kits used for determination of SOD, GSH-Px, CAT, Treament schedule of the study.
and malondialdehyde (MDA), as well as the mouse hydroxyproline
Group Shave UV radiation Vehicle PO (mg/mouse)
(Hyp) assay kit were purchased from Jiancheng institution of 120 μl/mouse
Biotechnology (Nanjing, China). All other chemicals and reagents 3 6 9
used in this study were analytical grade.
Naive Control (NC)      
Sham Control (SC) þ     
2.2. Qualitative and quantitative analyses of PO Model Control (MC) þ þ    
Vehicle Control (VC) þ þ þ   
For the quality control of PO, the content of a chemical marker- PO Low Dose (PO-L) þ þ þ þ  
patchouli alcohol was determined using Varian-3900 gas chromato- PO Middle Dose (PO-M) þ þ þ  þ 
PO High Dose (PO-H) þ þ þ   þ
graphy–flame ionization (GC–FID) instrument (Varian Corporation,
Palo Alto, CA, USA). The analytical conditions described in Pharmaco-  : without treatment.
poeia of the People's Republic of China were applied: samples were þ: with treatment.

Please cite this article as: Lin, R.-F., et al., Prevention of UV radiation-induced cutaneous photoaging in mice by topical administration of
patchouli oil. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2014.04.020i
 R.-F. Lin et al. / Journal of Ethnopharmacology ∎ (∎∎∎∎) ∎∎∎–∎∎∎ 3

2.4. UV-irradiation and PO treatment Hematoxylin-Eosin (H&E) staining (Levy and Barlow, 1989; Uhm et
al., 2010) for routine histology study. Moreover, the skin specimens
In order to establish the photoaging model, simulated solar were stained using the elastic Gomori's aldehyde fuchsin technique
irradiation was provided by an array of seven UVB lamps, with an to evaluate the elastic fibers as previously described (Proctor and
emission spectrum between 285 and 350 nm (peak at 310– Horobin, 1983).
315 nm), surrounding with three UVA lamps (Waldmann UV800, To quantify epidermal hyperplasia following UV exposure, the
Germany) emitting exclusively UVA in the range of 320–400 nm thickness of the epidermis was measured at 10 randomly selected
(peak at 365 nm). The ratio of UVA: UVB was measured by a locations per slide using an optical microscope (Leica DMLB) with
Waldmann UV meter (Waldmann Lichttechnik GmbH, Germany) 200  magnification. Each specimen was photographed under a
and was about 9.3:0.7. Mice in the flat and round cages were Leica DC 300 camera. Histological alterations were evaluated
irradiated under the UV lamp keeping the distance at 30 cm. The and quantified through the image analysis program Image J 1.36
frequency of exposure was set at four times a week (except (Wayne Rasband, National Institutes of Health, Bethesda, MD)
Monday, Wednesday and Friday) for ten weeks. The integrated (Manoj et al., 2012).
UV irradiance was measured by a UV meter, and the minimal
erythemal dose (MED) was 70 mJ/cm2 in our research. The
2.8. Total collagen content determination
intensities of UV were increased by 1 MED per week until the
fourth week, and then 4 MED kept constant for the remaining
To study the alterations of collagen content, 100 mg of the
period of exposure. The total radiation dose was about 9.52 J/cm2
shaved dorsal skin was used for the total hydroxyproline (Hyp)
(Kim et al., 2009; Ngo et al., 2011).
assay, and Hyp assay was performed according to the manufac-
In two hours before UV irradiation, the shaved dorsal skins of
turer's instructions (Jiancheng Inst. of Biotechnology, Nanjing,
mice were applied topically with PO (3, 6 and 9 mg/mouse) or
China). Hyp usually can be converted to the equivalent of collagen
vehicle (120 μl/mouse) every day for 10 weeks. Treatment sche-
through multiplication by the factor 7.46, considering Hyp is
dule was shown in Table 1.
the almost exclusive amino acid of collagen and accounts for
13.4 7 0.24% of mammalian collagen as previously described
(Neuman and Logan, 1950; Kong et al., 2013).
2.5. Macroscopic evaluation of dorsal skins

The UV-exposed dorsal skin of each mouse which was under

anesthesia was photographed once a week for 10 weeks. The 2.9. Biochemical indexes' assays
macroscopic visual scores were accessed according to the grading
scale showed in Table 2 by an observer who was blind to the The shaved dorsal skin (0.4 g) was cut into pieces and homo-
grouping (Kim et al., 2009; Agrawal and Kaur, 2010). genized with Ultra Turrax (T18 Basic, IKA) in 9 volumes of cold
normal saline at 4 1C to get the 10% skin tissue homogenate. Before
centrifugation, 0.15 ml of the skin tissue homogenate was taken
2.6. Skin recovery ability test
out for the MDA assay and the rest was centrifuged at 3000g for
20 min at 4 1C. The total supernatant was used for SOD, GSH-Px
The Skin recovery ability test (pinch test) was performed weekly
and CAT assays. All of the biochemical assays mentioned above
using a modified protocol based on the method described by
were carried out following the manufacturer's protocols of the
Tsukahara in order to investigate the elasticity of the dorsal skin
corresponding diagnostic kits (Nanjing Jiancheng Bioengineering
(Tsukahara et al., 2005; Agrawal and Kaur, 2010). Briefly, the midline
Inst., Nanjing, China).
of the dorsal skin of the anesthetized mouse was picked up with
fingers to a degree that its feet just lightly touched the table (see
Fig. 4A-Method). Pinch was subsequently released and the skin
recovery time was calculated immediately. 2.10. Statistical analysis

Experimental values were analyzed by one-way ANVOA. All

2.7. Histopathology studies data were expressed as mean 7 standard deviation (SD). A value of
po 0.05 was considered to be statistically significant. All analyses
The skin samples were excised from the shaved dorsal skin of were performed using Statistical Analysis Software (SPSS 17.0).
the mice immediately after they were sacrificed at the end of 10th
week. Then samples were fixed with 10% formalin neutral buffered
solution for at least 24 h. The representative samples were 3. Results
embedded in paraffin, cut into 5 μm sections and stained with
3.1. Chemical compositions of patchouli oil

To ensure the quality of PO, the content of patchouli alcohol,

Table 2
the major chemical marker of PO, was determined by GC–FID.
Grading scale for evaluation of photoaging.
As illustrated in Fig. 1, the content of patchouli alcohol was 28.2%
Grade Evaluation criteria (g/g), which met the requirements of Pharmacopoeia of the
People's Republic of China (26%). Moreover, results of the phyto-
0 Smoothness without any wrinkles; fine striations running
chemical analysis were presented in Table 3 and Fig. 2. A total of 18
the length of the body
1 fine striations
constituents were identified in the essential oil constituting 88.3%
2 A few shallow wrinkles; disappearance of all fine striations of the total oil composition. The oil composition mainly consisted
3 Shallow wrinkles across the dorsal skin of terpenoids, of which the monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes
4 Deep and coarse wrinkles with laxity accounted for more than 50% (peak area percentage). Apart from
patchouli alcohol (29.3%), the major components were β-gurjunene
5 Increased deep wrinkles
6 Surface accompanied with severe wrinkles; development of lesions
(17.4%) and β-guaiene (12.7%), and the other minor components

Please cite this article as: Lin, R.-F., et al., Prevention of UV radiation-induced cutaneous photoaging in mice by topical administration of
patchouli oil. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2014.04.020i
4 R.-F. Lin et al. / Journal of Ethnopharmacology ∎ (∎∎∎∎) ∎∎∎–∎∎∎

Fig. 1. (A) GC-FID chromatogram of patchouli alcohol in PO and internal standard (octadecane). (B) GC-FID chromatogram of patchouli alcohol standard substance and
internal standard (octadecane).

were β-patchoulene (5.8%), α-patchoulene (5.6%) and Δ-patchoulene Table 3

(4.3%). Chemical compositions of patchouli oil used in present study.

Peak no. Components Retention time (min) Relative percentage

3.2. PO reduced the skin lesions induced by UV radiation peaka (% in PO)

The representative photographs of the UV-induced macroscopic 1 β-Patchoulene 19.519 5.8

skin lesions were showed in Fig. 3A. The mice in the SC group only 2 β-Elemene 20.074 0.7
3 cis-Thujopsene 20.593 0.8
shaved but not irradiated showed healthy skin with no wrinkles, 4 Isocaryophyllene 21.073 2.1
which demonstrated that the shaving did not cause macroscopic 5 β-Gurjunene 21.909 17.4
skin lesions. Eight out of nine (88.9%) mice in MC group began to 6 α-Patchoulene 22.453 5.6
appear wrinkles, erythemas and leathery appearance from the 7 Δ-Patchoulene 22.593 4.3
8 β-Caryophyllene 23.412 0.4
fourth week. Likewise, approximately seven out of nine (77.8%) mice
9 cis-β-Guaiene 23.870 0.6
in the VC group exhibited the same situations. However, application 10 γ-Gurjunene 24.288 2.3
with PO at high dose (9 mg/mouse, PO-H group) had a tendency to 11 β-Guaiene 24.584 12.7
suppress the UV-induced extensive erythemas and deep wrinkles 12 β-Selinene 24.943 0.5
after six weeks treatment. In addition, the PO-M group (6 mg/ 13 Elemol 26.384 0.6
14 Globulol 27.224 0.4
mouse) did not exhibit its inhibited effect on skin wrinkle formation 15 trans-Longipinocarveol 27.476 0.7
until the eighth week. As shown in Fig. 3A, at the end of this 16 Caryophyllene oxide 29.408 0.3
experiment, the mice in the PO-H group showed more smoothness 17 Patchouli alcohol 30.709 29.3
appearance than that in the VC group. And mice in the PO-M group 18 Aristolone 55.568 3.8
showed no lesions but a few shallow wrinkles judging by Fig. 3A PO- a
Relative percentage as internal normalization of total peaks was observed.
M. In the PO-L group, six mice (66.67%) showed coarse wrinkles and
the other three exhibited slight erythemas.
Statistically, Fig. 3B showed that the visual scores of the MC of the PO-H group and PO-M group were significantly lower than
group and the VC group were not different, but both were that of the VC group, indicating that topic application of PO
obviously higher than that in the SC group. However, the scores prevented the UV-induced macroscopic skin damages.

Please cite this article as: Lin, R.-F., et al., Prevention of UV radiation-induced cutaneous photoaging in mice by topical administration of
patchouli oil. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2014.04.020i
 R.-F. Lin et al. / Journal of Ethnopharmacology ∎ (∎∎∎∎) ∎∎∎–∎∎∎ 5

Fig. 2. GC–MS total ion chromatogram (TIC) of the PO. The component labels in the chromatogram correspond to the peak number given in Table 3.

Fig. 3. (A) Physical appearances of UV-irradiated mice with different treatments at the last week. (B) The trend of macroscopic changes reflected in the changes of visual
scores was expressed by a histogram. Data represents means 7 SD (n¼ 9). (#): po 0.05 compared with the SC group. (n): p o0.05 compared with the VC group.

Please cite this article as: Lin, R.-F., et al., Prevention of UV radiation-induced cutaneous photoaging in mice by topical administration of
patchouli oil. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2014.04.020i
6 R.-F. Lin et al. / Journal of Ethnopharmacology ∎ (∎∎∎∎) ∎∎∎–∎∎∎

Fig. 4. Evaluation of skin elasticity by pinch testing. (A) Photographs of pinch test. Method: the method of pinch test described by Tsukahara. (B) Recovery time was
evaluated weekly. Data represents means 7 SD (n¼ 9). (#): p o0.05 compared with the SC group. (n): p o 0.05 compared with the VC group.

3.3. PO recovered the skin elasticity in the pinch test epidermal thickness showed no significant difference either between
NC and SC groups or between MC and VC groups, but there was
To evaluate the dorsal skin elasticity of the mice with different an around 3-fold increase of epidermal thickness in the MC group
treatments, pinch test was carried out weekly and the photo- compared with the SC group (po0.05 vs. SC). However, topical
graphs of mouse dorsal skin after being stretched were taken application of PO-M and PO-H significantly decreased the thickness
(Fig. 4A). As shown in Fig. 4B, the recovery times of the mice to 49.8 μm and 45.5 μm compared with the VC group. Hence, these
needed in the MC and VC groups were not significantly different, results together highlighted that PO (6 and 9 mg/mouse) significantly
but were significantly longer than that of the SC group. Although alleviated UV-induced epidermal hyperplasia.
the PO-L group did not reduce the recovery time significantly as
compared to the VC group, the recovery times of the mice in the 3.5. PO inhibited the abnormal histological alterations
PO-M and PO-H groups were significantly shorter than that in the
VC group. These results demonstrated that treatment with PO Repeated UV exposure to the mice resulted in the skin
(especially 6–9 mg/mouse) could promote the skin elasticity. structure alterations. Based on histological observation by H&E
staining of dorsal skins, non-irradiated groups (NC and SC)
3.4. PO alleviated UV-induced epidermal hyperplasia revealed relatively complete structures (Fig. 6). The epidermis
was a stratified squamous epithelium, covered by fine and thin
Epidermal thickness is used as a parameter to directly reflect stratum corneum. The dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) inter-
inhibitory effect of PO on UV-induced epidermal hyperplasia which is locked to form fingerlike projection that supported the adhesion
thought to cause wrinkles (Pillai et al., 2005). As can be seen in Fig. 5, of the dermis to the epidermis (Khavkin and Ellis, 2011; Kong et al.,

Please cite this article as: Lin, R.-F., et al., Prevention of UV radiation-induced cutaneous photoaging in mice by topical administration of
patchouli oil. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2014.04.020i
 R.-F. Lin et al. / Journal of Ethnopharmacology ∎ (∎∎∎∎) ∎∎∎–∎∎∎ 7

Fig. 5. Application of PO prevented hyperplasia of epidermis. (A) Photographs of epidermal hyperplasia observed by H&E staining (all of the photographs are magnified at
200  ). Epidermal thickness was shown here via the double-headed black arrows. The scale bar represents 50 μm. (B) Histogram accompanied with error bar represents
means 7 SD (n ¼6). (#): p o 0.05 compared with the SC group. (n): po 0.05 compared with the VC group.

2013). Moreover, the dermis was tightly connected to the epider- The skin of the mice treated with 3 mg/mouse PO (PO-L)
mis through a basement membrane and showed organized dis- displayed thickened stratum corneum, epidermis and flattened
tribution and uniformed thickness of collagen which stained as DEJ. Although they were not as serious as that in the MC and VC
pink deposits. Arranged and branched elastic fibers were exhibited groups, the onset of repairs of denatured and fractured collagen
clearly in the dermis of the mice in the NC and SC groups (Fig. 7). and elastic fibers were also found. But diffuse inflammation was
Deeper dermis contained clusters of sebaceous glands attached to ameliorated. However, the application with 6 mg/mouse PO
the regular hair follicles. Diffuse inflammatory infiltration could (PO-M) inhibited the abnormal epidermal hyperplasia and showed
not be observed (Fig. 6NC and SC). thinner stratum corneum. In addition, DEJ became wavy as
After ten weeks of UV-irradiation, the histopathological fea- compared to that of the VC group on account of the well-marked
tures of the MC and VC groups were quite similar. Both of them appearance of dermal papillae and epidermal rete ridge. On the
showed prominent epidermal hyperplasia with abnormal kerati- other hand, collagen and elastic fibers in dermis interwove closely,
nization and hyperkeratosis. Beneath the epidermis, a clear flat- oriented randomly and embedded with each other. Diffuse inflam-
tening of the DEJ paralleling with disappearance of dermal papillae mation was not present. When applied with 9 mg/mouse PO
was found in Fig. 6MC (a). Flattening DEJ caused approximately a (PO-H), epidermal thickness was decreased by about 34.9%, com-
half decrease in surface contact area causing fragile skin (Khavkin pared with that in the VC group. The epidermis was covered by a
and Ellis, 2011). In the dermis of MC group mice, as well as VC slightly thickened stratum corneum and the structure of the DEJ
group mice, a large proportion of the collagen fiber bundles returned to near-normal level (Fig. 6). In addition, the upper portion
showed twisted and disorganized, some of which even showed of the dermis showed an order arrangement of hair follicles, the
destruction (Fig. 6MC (b) and VC). Within the papillary dermis, content of collagen was markedly increased and collagen bundles
there were masses of tangled and degraded elastic fibers (Fig. 7MC were thickened. Moreover, the accumulation of elongated and
and VC). In addition, as illustrated in Fig. 6MC (b), hemorrhage was threadlike elastic fibers could be visually observed (Fig. 7PO-H)
observed. This finding was consistent with the previous reports and inflammatory infiltration did not exhibit in the Fig. 6PO-H.
finding that UV-caused lesions could be reflected in the broken
micrangium to some extent (Agrawal and Kaur, 2010; Ngo et al., 3.6. PO elevated collagen content in photoaged mice
2011). Such lesions had further invited an inflammatory infiltra-
tion with a number of macrophages and leukocytes formed in and Collagen is a major component of animal tissues. The results
underneath the dermis as shown in Fig. 6MC(c). showed that the collagen content between NC and SC groups did

Please cite this article as: Lin, R.-F., et al., Prevention of UV radiation-induced cutaneous photoaging in mice by topical administration of
patchouli oil. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2014.04.020i
8 R.-F. Lin et al. / Journal of Ethnopharmacology ∎ (∎∎∎∎) ∎∎∎–∎∎∎

Fig. 6. Hematoxylin & Eosin (H&E) staining of mouse skin in: NC (100  ); SC: having the similar features to that in the NC group (200  ); MC (a): showing destroyed
structure (200  ); MC (b): tangled and sparse collagen accompanied with hemorrhage (400  ); MC (c): inflammation infiltrate through dermal and subcutaneous tissue
(400  ); VC: having the similar characteristic to that in the MC group (200  ); PO-L (200  ); PO-M (200  ); PO-H (200  ). ED, epidermis; DR, dermis; ST, subcutaneous
tissue; DEJ, dermal–epidermal junction; SC, stratum corneum; HF, hair follicle; IFI, inflammation infiltration.

not have significant difference. Compared with the SC mice, the 3.8. PO decreased the skin malonaldehyde (MDA) content
MC mice and VC mice showed the same decrease of skin collagen
content, which demonstrated that the vehicle solution did not MDA is the aldehydic decomposition product of lipid oxidation,
affect the UV-induced decrease of collagen content (Table 4). After the content of which can reflect the lipid peroxide level well.
treated with 3 mg/mouse PO (PO-L), the collagen content in the Table 4 showed that the MDA contents were similar either
UV-irradiated mice skin increased slightly. However, PO treatment between NC and SC groups, or between MC and VC groups.
at the doses of 6 and 9 mg/mouse significantly enhanced the Moreover, upon irradiation of UV, around 3-fold increase of MDA
collagen content by 21.9% and 26.3% respectively as compared to content in the VC group was observed as compared to that in the
the VC treatment. These results indicated that PO (especially 6 and SC group. However, the increased MDA content was reduced by
9 mg/mouse) alleviated the UV-induced collagen damage. about 26.5% by topically administration of PO (all p o0.05, vs. VC),
especially in the PO-M and PO-H groups. These results indicated
3.7. PO inhibited UV-induced oxidative stress that PO could suppress lipid peroxidation of UV-irradiated mice.

Activities of antioxidant enzymes are generally considered

as parameters to evaluate the antioxidant levels of organism.
As illustrated in Table 4, there were no statistically significant 4. Discussion
differences in SOD, CAT and GSH-Px activities either between NC
and SC groups or between MC and VC groups, indicating that Photoaged skin, attributed to chronic UV irradiation, is mani-
depilation and solvent did no bias to these indicators in our study. fested as the increase in skin thickness, formation of wrinkles and
In comparison with the SC group, activities of SOD, CAT and GSH- reduction in skin elasticity, which fundamentally associated with
Px in the MC group were significantly decreased (po0.05). reduction in the content of collagen and elastic fibers. Specifically,
However, applying with PO-M and PO-H (6 and 9 mg/mouse PO) UV irradiation degrades the collagen and elastic fibers mainly by
increased SOD and GSH-Px activities obviously (po 0.05, vs. VC). generating the ROS (Kim et al., 2011; Fan et al., 2013). Thus,
Meanwhile, PO-L and PO-H significantly enhanced CAT activity by strategies to apply with antioxidants are valuable for preventing
29.8% and 90.7%, respectively though PO-M did not show signifi- skin photoaging. In the present study, the anti-photoaging effects
cant enhancement. These results revealed that PO could protect of PO were evaluated by assessing macroscopic grade, doing
activities of antioxidant enzymes to scavenge free radicals and histopathological study and detecting the collagen content, MDA
further inhibit UV-induced oxidative stress. content and activities of SOD, CAT and GSH-Px, which were

Please cite this article as: Lin, R.-F., et al., Prevention of UV radiation-induced cutaneous photoaging in mice by topical administration of
patchouli oil. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2014.04.020i
 R.-F. Lin et al. / Journal of Ethnopharmacology ∎ (∎∎∎∎) ∎∎∎–∎∎∎ 9

Fig. 7. Gomori's aldehyde fuchsin staining of mouse skin (original magnification 400  ). NC&SC: elastic fibers manifested as purple fine line samples showing integrated and
interlaced situation. MC&VC: showing fractured, separated and degraded elastic fibers. EF, elastic fibers. (For interpretation of references to color in this figure legend, the
reader is referred to the web version of this article.)

Table 4
Effects of PO on biochemical indexes of photoaged mice skin.

Group SOD GSH-Px CAT MDA Collagen

Ua/mgprot Ub/mgprot Uc/mgprot Nmold/mgprot (μg/mg)e

NC 35.167 6.88 656.677101.08 14.81 7 1.25 6.87 7 1.23 27.50 7 3.42

SC 32.22 7 7.20 681.83 797.44 13.93 7 1.35 8.047 1.36 24.87 7 4.38
MC 25.187 5.201;# 340.17 745.171;# 6.02 7 0.901;# 19.99 7 1.831;# 16.05 7 3.891;#
VC 23.777 4.491;# 361.37 782.371;# 5.617 0.921;# 18.98 7 2.001;# 18.30 7 4.131;#
PO-L 26.84 7 6.18 345.41 748.11 7.28 7 1.16n 14.95 7 1.78n 20.69 7 4.00
PO-M 33.887 7.78n 526.11 775.55n 6.25 7 0.62 17.81 7 1.68n 22.317 2.69n
PO-H 30.42 7 7.05n 642.53 796.05n 10.707 0.82n 9.117 1.55n 23.117 3.06n

Each value represents the mean 7 SD of 9 mice per group.

n
significantly different from vehicle control group (np o 0.05).
#
significantly different from sham group (#p o 0.05).
a
One unit of SOD activity was defined as the amount of the enzyme inhibiting the oxidation by 50%.
b
One unit of glutathione peroxidase is defined as the amount of the enzyme leading 1 μmol GSH oxidized per min.
c
One unit of catalase activity was defined as the amount of enzyme that reduces 1 μmol of H2O2 per second under defined conditions.
d
MDA content was expressed as nmol per mg protein.
e
Collagen content was expressed as μg per mg skin.

considered as important indexes for oxidative stress evaluation lesions, prevented collagen and elastic fibers' degradation and
(Kim et al., 2009; Kong et al., 2013). Our results indicated that PO elevated the activities of SOD, CAT and GSH-Px.
had photo-protective effects in a mouse model, which effectively Chronic UV exposure is known to directly damage the skin surface
accelerated the recovery of the macroscopic and histological skin to cause photoaging, which is characterized by an increase in the

Please cite this article as: Lin, R.-F., et al., Prevention of UV radiation-induced cutaneous photoaging in mice by topical administration of
patchouli oil. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2014.04.020i
10 R.-F. Lin et al. / Journal of Ethnopharmacology ∎ (∎∎∎∎) ∎∎∎–∎∎∎

number of wrinkles and a decrease in the resilience (Agrawal and Furthermore, taking the results of GC study into consideration,
Kaur, 2010; Sayama et al., 2010). According to the previous reports, we hypothesized the anti-photoaging activity of PO in the present
macroscopic grading and pinch test have had wide application in the study could be due to the bioactivities of its chemical compounds.
skin surface evaluation (Agrawal and Kaur, 2010; Sayama et al., 2010). Among 18 identifiable components in PO, patchouli alcohol,
Comparison of untreated (SC) group and the vehicle (VC) group in our guaiene, isocaryophyllene, caryophyllene and selinene were
study, VC group showed an increase in skin thickness, sagging of the reported to have antioxidant activities. Manoj and Manohar et al.
skin and an decrease in skin elasticity, which were consistent with the have reported that essential oil of pogostemon paniculatus had
previous reports (Oba and Edwards, 2006). However, in comparison DPPH free-radical scavenging activity and this activity was attrib-
with the VC group, the PO treated groups had an appreciable skin uted to patchouli alcohol and guaiene because they were the
repair such as less wrinkling, suggesting that PO could effectively major components (Manoj et al., 2012). Quassinti and Lupidi et al.
attenuate photo damage of the skin surface. In addition, many recent have also reported cis-β-guaiene, selinene and caryophyllene were
studies suggested that the wrinkled appearance and the formation of the most representative components of essential oil of Hypericum
sagging skin mainly resulted from the reduction of collagen and the hircinum L. subsp. majus (Aiton) N. Robson which showed sig-
loss of integrity of elastic fibers in the skin dermis (Kang et al., 2009; nificant effect of anti-oxidation (Quassinti et al., 2013). In addition,
Hughes et al., 2011; Khavkin and Ellis, 2011). Our histological data was previous studies have revealed moderate inhibitory activities of
consistent with the results from the macroscopic analysis. Based on caryophyllene against lipid peroxidation and scavenging activities
histological observation, continuous UV irradiation induced fragmen- against hydroxyl radical and superoxide anion (Calleja et al., 2013).
ted collagen fibers as well as decreased the number of elastic fibers Hence, compounds in PO, especially sesquiterpene which pos-
and changed elastic fibers into tangled and degraded formation. sesses potential anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, are
Collagen content determination also revealed that UV significantly crucial for PO's anti-photoaging effect, and the specific chemical
reduced the collagen content. However, PO treatment apparently compounds responsible for anti-photoaging effect of PO need to be
prevented UV-induced collagen reduction, rebuilt the integrity of further identified.
collagen structure and remodeled elastic fibers. These findings were In summary, this is the first study to comprehensively demon-
in accordance with the results in pinch test and suggested that PO strate the protective effects of topical administration of PO on UV-
prevented mice skin from wrinkles and sagging, mainly by repairing induced photoaged mouse skin. Our work gives evidence that PO
collagen and elastic fibers and accelerating the collagen synthesis can be used as potential functional cosmetic products for skin care.
which was further confirmed by Hyp content determination.
Accordingly, decreased the density of collagen observed in H&E
staining and reduced collagen content detected by Hyp content
Acknowledgments
determination implied that there might be an increased secretion
of MMPs since they are directly responsible for the degradation of
extracellular matrix (Son et al., 2012; Haarmann-Stemmann et al., This work was supported by grants from the Guangdong
2013). Moreover, MMPs are fundamentally stimulated by UV- International Cooperation Projects in 2012, Guangdong Province,
PR China (Project no. 2012B050300002), China Postdoctoral
induced ROS (Kim et al., 2005; Bickers and Athar, 2006). In the
physiological situation, endogenous antioxidant enzymes (SOD, Science Foundation (Grant no. 2014M552188) and the Innovation
and Entrepreneurship Training Program of College Students of
CAT and GSH-Px) will secret sufficiently to catalyze ROS into O2
and H2O (Prasad et al., 2007; Hou et al., 2009). Our investigation Guangdong (No. 1057213031).
showed that when UV irradiation induced the excessive increase
of ROS in mice skin, the defense of these antioxidant enzymes was
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Please cite this article as: Lin, R.-F., et al., Prevention of UV radiation-induced cutaneous photoaging in mice by topical administration of
patchouli oil. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2014), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2014.04.020i