TIPS FOR TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS

HOW AND WHEN TO TRANSPLANT OUTDOORS TO THE

GARDEN
By The Editors
April 23, 2021
Tips for Transplanting Seedlings
 
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Are you ready for the first big hurdle of the gardening season? Here’s how to
make sure that your plant seedlings transplant successfully into the garden.
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When we refer to “transplanting,” we mean the act of moving seedlings or small
plants from their pots outside into the garden soil. This applies to both:
 Small starter plants (called “transplants”) purchased at the nursery. Some
vegetable are challenging to start from seed (or take too long), so we rely on
the nurseries to get them started. Examples are tomatoes, eggplant,
and peppers.
 Young plants started from seed at home. Some gardeners start plants from
seed indoors on their own to get a jump start on the season, especially if they
live in a northern climate with a short growing season.
Keep in mind that some vegetables (and flowers) are NOT cut out for
transplanting or being moved; they are best and most easily sown by seed directly
in the ground. See seed-starting preference by plant.
1. WHEN TO TRANSPLANT
When to transplant depends on the plant. Some plants, such as spinach, are cool-
season crops, which means that they should be planted before outdoor
temperatures get too warm. Others, like tomatoes and peppers, are warm-season
crops and will be weakened by too-cool temperatures. The temperature of the soil
is important, too! 
Check our local Planting Calendar, which lists when to transplant each type of
vegetable based on your local frost dates.
Don’t rush it! Earlier isn’t necessarily better and will slow growth rates. Heat-
loving plants shouldn’t be outside until nighttime temperatures remain
consistently above 60°F (15°C). Keep an eye on local weather forecasts as you
prepare for transplanting. If a serious cold snap is imminent, hold off on
transplanting until temperatures are more agreeable.
If you start your plants from seed, it’s a good idea to keep track of when you start
them and when you transplant them. This will help you plan in future years!

2. PREPARE THE GARDEN AND THE PLANTS

When the weather looks like it’s taking a turn for the better, start getting your
garden ready for transplanting into the soil! 
 Loosen and amend soil. Your garden soil may have become compacted
over winter, so loosen and aerate the soil before planting. Remove any rocks or
roots of weeds. Work in plenty of organic matter to about a shovel’s depth to
help the soil retain moisture, drain well, and allow easy penetration by
seedling roots. Read more about preparing soil for planting.  
 Anything that raises the temperature of the soil will help plants
adjust to the shock of the cold ground. Spread black plastic or landscaping
 fabric across the site to boost soil temperature a couple weeks before
planting. See how to warm the soil for spring planting.
 Avoid walking on the soil by creating paths or boards to stand on.
Walking on the soil compacts it, making it more difficult for small roots, water,
and air to penetrate. 
 During the transplants’ last week indoors, withhold fertilizer and water less
often to condition them to the harsher outdoor life.
 Harden-off plants. Any seedlings or start plants that are coming from
the indoors to the outdoors must go through a gradual transition or they’ll go
through shock. Start by watering the plants thoroughly. Then, 7 to 10 days
before transplanting, set the seedlings outdoors in dappled shade that is
protected from wind for a few hours each day, gradually increasing their
exposure to full sun and windy conditions. This will get them better
accustomed to eventually living full-time outdoors..  
 Keep the soil moist at all times during the hardening-off period. Dry air
and spring breezes can result in rapid water loss. See our complete guide on
hardened off plants.
3. TRANSPLANTING POT TO SOIL IN 10 STEPS
If possible, transplant on a warm, overcast day in the early morning. This gives
the plants a chance to settle into the soil without being instantly exposed to the
intense midday sun.
1. Check soil moisture. Test to see if your soil is too wet or too dry to dig. Soil
should be moist but not soaking wet. Water deeply a day before working the
soil. Soil that’s too dry pulls moisture out of plant roots and damages them.
2. Use a rake to create a smooth and level surface.
3. Dig a planting hole that’s a little bit bigger than the plant’s rootball and
about as deep.
4. Turn the pot upside down while supporting the soil side with your other
hand, being careful not to crush or drop the plant. Tap the bottom of the pot to
help the seedling out.
5. Place the seedling in the planting hole at the same depth that it was
growing in the pot. You should be able to cover the seedling with about ¼ inch
of soil. Fill in with soil around the rootball.
6. Gently tamp down the soil around the seedling so there’s good contact
between the seedling’s roots and the soil. 
7. Soak the soil around new seedlings immediately after transplanting in
order to settle the roots, eliminate air pockets, and reduce the potential of
transplant shock.
8. A few days after transplanting, give each seedling a cup of a starter
fertilizer to ensure that phosphorus—which promotes strong root development
—is available in the root zone of new transplants. Mix two tablespoons of a 15-
30-15 starter fertilizer into a gallon of water (one tablespoon for vining crops
such as melons and cucumbers).
9. If the season or your climate is particularly dry, spread mulch to reduce
moisture loss.
10. Watch the forecast for late spring frosts and plan to protect your plants
accordingly. Cloches, cold frames, or sheets can be used to protect plants. Be
sure to remove protective coverings in the morning. 
After you transplant, keep the soil bed moist, never allowing it to dry out. Water
gently with a watering can at the soil level (NOT from above). Until the plants are
well estalished, water often enough (usually about once a day) so that the soil
surface never dries out, but remains constantly moist. 
HOW TO TRANSPLANT: STEP-BY-STEP DEMONSTRATION
Check out this video to learn how to take your seedlings from potting tray
to garden plot, step by step.
KEEP ON GROWING
Now that your young plants are in the ground, learn about their care for the rest
of the season! See our library of 100+ plant Growing Guides for planting,
growing, and harvesting all of your favorite crops and flowers.
FREE ONLINE GARDENING GUIDES
Find more information on planting. Visit our complete Gardening for
Everyone hub, where you’ll find a series of guides—all free! From selecting the
right gardening spot to choosing the best vegetables to watering the right way,
our Almanac gardening experts are excited to teach gardening to everyone.
HOW TO SUCCESSFULLY HARDEN OFF INDOOR-SOWN PLANTS
“Hardening off” is the process of gradually acclimatizing indoor-sown plants to
outdoor conditions.
For most plants, begin hardening off a week before the final frost date for your
area. Our Garden Planner uses data from your closest weather station to
recommend when it’s safe to plant out, providing a helpful guide to work
back from.
Choose a sheltered spot to harden off your plants. An unheated greenhouse or
cold frame is a great tool for this, or you can cluster pots into buckets, crates or
boxes to keep the wind off. Don’t place pots directly on the ground where they
can easily be knocked over by birds or attacked by slugs.
Begin hardening off on a still, cloudy day when temperatures are fairly steady.
Water plants before they go outside. Place them into your sheltered spot for just
two hours on the first day. The next day, leave them out for two more hours, with
perhaps an hour’s direct sunshine in the morning. Gradually increase the length
of outdoor time and direct sunshine over one to two weeks. You can then leave
them out overnight if there’s no danger of frost.
In cold winter regions, plants – particularly tender plants such as tomatoes and
peppers – will need to be prepared for the cooler nights early in the growing
season. Towards the end of the hardening off period, cover your crops with fleece
or row covers to protect them overnight. Once crops have been planted into their
final positions, be alert for unexpected cold snaps and cover tender crops
if necessary.
It’s a good idea to grow a few more plants than you need so you can hold some
back just in case. Bought-in plants may also need hardening off, particularly if
they have been kept in sheltered conditions.
Read our full page about transplanting seedlings.
Also: Be sure to check out the Almanac Garden Planner! We’re offering a free 7-
day trial to create your best garden.
FREE ONLINE GARDENING GUIDES
We’ve gathered all of our best beginner gardening guides into a step-by-step
series designed to help you learn how to garden! Visit our complete Gardening
for Everyone hub, where you’ll find a series of guides—all free! From selecting
the right gardening spot to choosing the best vegetables to grow, our Almanac
gardening experts are excited to teach gardening to everyone—whether it’s your
1st or 40th garden.