TM 9-801 (1944)

1 ••*
WAR D E P A R T M E ff^T E C H N I C A L MANUAL
—7—
TRUCK
21/2-TON, 6x6
CMC CCKW-352 & 353
This is a reprint of TM 9-801 for Hock
only and tail! not be issued to individuals
possessing the original publication
WAR DEPARTMENT
24 APRIL 1944
Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google
Generated on 2013-07-24 08:01 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3243761
WAR DEPARTMENT TECHNICAL MANUAL *TM 9-801
RESTRICTED
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
(CMC CCKW-352 and 353)
WAR DEPARTMENT
24 APRIL 1944
* This manual, together with TM 9-1801 and TM 9-1802A, supersedes the
following manuals:
TM 10-1105, 18 Jul 1941 TM 10-1269, 19 Jan 1942
TM 10-1147, 26 Aug 1941 TM 10-1501, 12 Jul 1941
TM 10-1253, 8 Oct 1941 TM 10-1563, 1 Jul 1942
In addition, this manual supersedes the following:
TM 9-801, 12 Apr 1943 OFSTB 10-1501-1, 6 Apr 1943
OFSTB 801-1, 6 Apr 1943 OFSTB 801-4, 24 Jan 1943
OFSTB 10-1147-1, 6 Apr 1943
It also supersedes applicable portions of the following:
OFSTB 800-15, 14 Jul 1943 TB ORD 26, 9 Feb 1944
TB ORD 13, 12 Jan 1944 TB ORD 32, 18 Feb 1944
TB ORD 20, 24 Jan 1944

WAR DEPARTMENT
Washington 25, D.C., 24 April 1944
TM 9-801, 2V2-ton 6x6 Truck (CMC CCKW-352 and 353) is pub-
lished for the information and guidance of all concerned.
[A.G. 300.7 (20 Nov 43) ]
BY ORDER OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR:
G. C. MARSHALL,
Chief of Staff.
OFFICIAL:
J. A. ULIO,
Major General,
The Adjutant General.
DISTRIBUTION: D 7 (5); B 18 (2); R 9 (4); Bn 2,4,5,6,7,8,9,17,
18, 44 (2); C 9 (8); 1C 2,4,6,7,8,10,17,18,44 (2).
(For explanation of symbols, see FM 21-6.)
/v
TM 9-801
U//3
TRUCK, 2*-TON, 6 x 6
(CMC CCKW-352 & 353)
CONTENTS
PART ONE— GENERAL
Paragrophs .Pages
SECTION I. Introduction .................. 1-2 5-6
II. Description and tabulated data .. 3-5 6-19
III. Tools, parts, and accessories ..... 6-10 20-27
PART TWO-OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
IV. Controls and instruments ....... 11-15 28-35
V. Operation under usual conditions 16-23 35-54
VI. Operation of auxiliary equipment 24-28 54-69
VII. Operation under unusual condi-
tions ....................... 29-35 69-79
PART THREE— MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
VIII. Lubrication ................... 36-37 80-98
IX. New vehicle run-in test ......... 38-40 99-103
X. First echelon preventive mainte-
nance service ............... 41-45 103-114
XI. Second echelon preventive
maintenance ................ 46 114-137
XII. Power plant trouble shooting and
diagnosis ................... 47-59 137-150
XIII. Power train and miscellaneous
trouble shooting and diagnosis . 60-74 150-161
XIV. Engine description, data, mainte-
nance, and adjustment on
vehicle ..................... 75-82 161-177
XV. Engine removal and installation . 83-85 178-186
XVI. Ignition system ............... 86-90 186-196
XVII. Fuel and air intake system ...... 91-101 196-215

TM 9-801
CONTENTS
SECTION Paragraphs Pages
XVIII. Exhaust system 102-105 215-219
XIX. Cooling system 106-112 220-230
XX. Starting system 113-115 230-233
XXI. Generating system 116-118 233-238
XXII. Battery and lighting system. . . . 119-125 238-249
XXIII. Wiring, harnesses, and circuits.. . 126-128 249-260
XXIV. Radio noise suppression system. . 129-134 260-272
XXV. Instruments, gages, and switches. 135-148 272-283
XXVI. Clutch and controls 149-152 284-288
XXVII. Transmission 153-155 288-292
XXVIII. Power take-off and controls 156-158 292-301
XXIX. Transfer case and control 159-162 301-309
XXX. Front axle 163-169 309-320
XXXI. Rear axles • 170-174 321-325
XXXII. Propeller shafts, universal joints,
and pillow block 175-177 325-329
XXXIII. Service brake system 178-191 329-361
XXXIV. Hand brake system 192-196 361-366
XXXV. Wheels, tires, and hubs 197-202 366-386
XXXVI. Steering system 203-207 386-392
XXXVII. Front and rear spring suspension. 208-213 392-403
XXXVIII. Frame 214-219 404-412
XXXIX. Cab and associated parts 220-224 412-418
XL. Sheet metal 225-228 419-424
XLI. Cargo and dump bodies 229-232 424-431
XLII. Gasoline and water tank bodies. . 233-234 431-440
XLIII. Winch and controls 235-242 440-448
XLIV. Power hoist and controls 243-249 448-463
APPENDIX
XLV. Shipment and temporary storage.250-252 463-469
XLVI. References 253-255 469-471
Index 472-480
.4.
TM 9-801
1-2
PART ONE—GENERAL
Section I
INTRODUCTION
1. SCOPE.
a. These instructions are published for the information and
guidance of the personnel to whom this equipment is assigned. They
contain information on the operation and maintenance of the Truck,
2 Vi-Ton, 6x6, CMC CCKW-352 "and 353, as well as descriptions of
the major units and their functions in relation to the other com-
ponents of this vehicle.
b. This manual has the following arrangement:
(1) Part One, General, contains description and data. It lists
the tools, spare parts, and equipment carried on the vehicle. It also
lists organizational special tools for this vehicle.
(2) Part Two, Operating Instructions, contains instructions for
the operation of the vehicle with description and location of the
controls and instruments.
(3) Part Three, Maintenance Instructions, contains informa-
tion needed for the performance of the scheduled lubrication and
preventive maintenance services, and instructions for maintenance
operations which are the responsibility of the using organizations
(first and second echelons). Stock numbers in this part were ob-
tained from the Organizational Spare Parts and Equipment List of
SNL G-5Q8, 29 December 1943.
(4) The Appendix contains instructions for shipment and tem-
porary storage, and a list of references including standard nomen-
clature lists, technical manuals, and other publications applicable
to the vehicle.
2. RECORDS.
a. Forms and records applicable for use in performing pre-
scribed operations are listed below with brief explanations of each.
(1) STANDARD FORM No. 26, DRIVER'S REPORT—ACCIDENT,
MOTOR TRANSPORTATION. One copy of this form will be kept with
the vehicle at all times. In case of an accident resulting in injury or
property damage, it will be filled out by the driver on the spot or as
promptly as practical thereafter.
(2) WAR DEPARTMENT FORM No. 48, DRIVER'S TRIP TICKET

AND PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICE RECORD. This form, prop-

erly executed, will be furnished to the driver when his vehicle is
dispatched on non-tactical missions. The driver and the official user
of the vehicle will complete in detail appropriate parts of this form.
These forms need not be issued for vehicles in convoy or on tactical
missions. The reverse side of this form contains the driver's daily
and weekly preventive maintenance service reminder schedule.
(3) W.D., A.G.O. FORM No. 478, MWO AND MAJOR UNIT AS-
SEMBLY REPLACEMENT RECORD. This form will be used by all per-
sonnel completing a modification or major unit assembly (engine,

TM 9-801
2-3
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
transmission, transfer case, and tracks) replacement to record
clearly the description of work completed, date, vehicle hours,
and/or mileage, and MWO number or nomenclature of unit as-
sembly. Personnel performing the operation will initial in the column
provided. Minor repairs, parts, and accessory replacements will not
be recorded.
(4) W.D., A.G.O. FORM No. 6, DUTY ROSTER. This form, slightly
modified, will be used for scheduling and maintaining a record of ve-
hicle maintenance operations. It may be used for lubrication records.
(5) W.D., A.G.O. FORM No. 461, PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
SERVICE AND TECHNICAL INSPECTION WORK SHEET FOR WHEELED
AND HALF-TRACK VEHICLES. This form will be used for all 1,000-
mile (monthly) and 6,000-mile (semi-annual) maintenance services
and all technical inspections performed on wheeled or half-track
vehicles.
(6) W.D., O.O. FORM No. 7353, SPOT-CHECK INSPECTION RE-
PORT FOR ALL MOTOR VEHICLES. This form may be used by all
commanding officers or their staff representatives in making spot-
check inspection on all vehicles.
(7) W.D., A.G.O. FORM No. 468, UNSATISFACTORY EQUIPMENT
RECORD. This form will be used for reporting manufacturing, design,
or operational defects in material with a view to improving and
correcting such defects, and for use in recommending modifications
of material. This form will not be used for reporting failures, isolated
material defects, or malfunctions of material resulting from fair
wear and tear or accidental damage, nor for the replacement, repair,
or the issue of parts and equipment. It does not replace currently
authorized operational or performance records.
(8) W.D., O.O. FORM No. 7370, EXCHANGE PART OR UNIT
IDENTIFICATION TAG. This tag, properly executed, may be used
when exchanging unserviceable items for like serviceable assemblies,
parts, vehicles, and tools.
Section II
DESCRIPTION AND TABULATED DATA
3. DESCRIPTION.
a. General. Vehicles described in this manual are designated

as TRUCK, IVi-ton, 6x6, CMC CCKW-352 and 353. The vehicles

are equipped with one driving front axle and two driving rear axles,
.and six driving wheels. Conventionally mounted open type cab is
used on all vehicles with either cargo, cargo-dump, gasoline tank, or
water tank body. In addition to special purpose use, depending upon
type of body, vehicles may also be used for towing tractors, guns, and
other wheeled equipment.
b. General Characteristics.
(1) POWER PLANT. Six-cylinder, in-line, valve-in-head engine

TM 9-801
LEFT FRONT VIEW
RIGHT REAR VIEW
STRAIGHT FRONT VIEW
DA PD 332854
Figure 1 —CCKVV-352 (Short Wheelbase) with Carga Body
and Winch—Less Tarpaulin
•7•
TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
LEFT REAR VIEW
LEFT FRONT VIEW
STRAIGHT FRONT VIEW
RA PD 332891
Figure 2—CCKW-353 (Long Wheelbase) with Cargo Body
and Winch—Tarpaulin Installed
•8•
TM 9-801
is three-point mounted at front end of chassis frame. Conventional
accessories such as generator, cranking motor, distributor, oil filter,
carbureter, air cleaner, clutch, etc., are attached to engine proper.
Transmission, mounted to rear end of engine, has five speeds forward
and one reverse, with direct drive in fourth speed and over-drive in
fifth. Clutch is single dry-plate type attached directly to flywheel.
(2) AXLES, SUSPENSION, AND STEERING. Three driving axles
are full-floating and may be either split or banjo type. Front axle in-
corporates special universal joints at the steering knuckles which
permit steering of vehicle in conventional automotive manner. Sus-
pension of axles from chassis frame is with semi-elliptic springs, with
torque rod connections used at rear axles. Each front spring is at-
tached to conventional two-channel type frame by a shackle at front
end, and a bracket at rear end. Each rear spring is supported at the
center on cross shaft bearings. Ends of rear springs are fitted into
guides at wheel ends of rear axles.
(3) BRAKES. Service brakes are vacuum operated hydraulic
type, operating two mechanical brake shoes at each wheel. Hydraulic
master cylinder, operated by foot brake pedal, actuates Hydrovac
power cylinder, which in turn transmits hydraulic pressure to wheel
cylinders to apply brakes. Band type hand brake assembly is mount-
ed on output shaft at rear of transfer case. Conventional latch type
hand brake lever operates brake through rods and linkage for emer-
gency stops, or to hold vehicle while parking.
(4) POWER DRIVE UNITS. Two-speed transfer case permits drive
by rear axles, or front and rear axles, depending upon position of
manual shift levers. Axles are driven through conventional type
propeller shafts from transfer case. Power take-off for winch and
hoist operation (when used) is mounted on left side of transmission,
and drives these auxiliary units through universal joint type drive
shafts.
(5) WINCH. The winch, when supplied, is mounted at front end
of vehicle, and is driven through drive shaft by transmission power
take-off.
(6) CAB. The two-man cab consists of a metal open top en-
closure around driver's compartment. Cab is equipped with wind-

shield, tarpaulin and hinged side curtains, and provision for gun
mount ring.
(7) BODY TYPES.
(a) Cargo (figs. 1 and 2). Wood type cargo body, equipped with
troop seats, cargo racks, bows, and top tarpaulin, may be mounted
on either long wheelbase (CCKW-353) or short wheelbase (CCKW-
352) chassis.
(b) Cargo Dump (fig. 3). Metal type cargo dump body, equipped
with troop seats, cargo racks, bows, and top tarpaulin, is mounted
only on long wheelbase (CCKW-353) chassis with winch. Hydraulic
hoist, mounted on subframe, raises body to dumping position.
(c) Gasoline Tank Body (fig. 4). Metal gasoline tank body, con-
sisting of two 375 gallon tanks, is mounted only on long wheelbase
(CCKW-353) chassis. Tank is equipped with dump valves and

TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
,I
RA PD 64759
Figure 3—CCKW•353 (Long Wheelbase) with Cargo
Dump Body—Less Tarpaulin
similar equipment. Chassis upon which gasoline tanks are mounted
are not equipped with winches or pintle hooks.
(d) Water Tank Body (fig. 5). Metal water tank body of 700
gallon capacity is mounted only on long wheelbase (CCKW-353)
chassis. Tank body is equipped with auxiliary gasoline engine and
pump unit, control valves, portable heating unit, and heating con-
nections to chassis exhaust pipe system. Chassis upon which water
tank bodies are mounted are not equipped with winches or pintle
hooks.
(e) Special Purpose Bodies. Either long wheelbase or short
wheelbase chassis (CCKW-353 or 352) with or without winch, may
be used with special purpose bodies such as van, water purification,
•10•
TM 9-801
LEFT VIEW
RIGHT REAR VIEW
STRAIGHT REAR VIEW
RA PD 332881
Figure 4—CCKW-353 (Long Wheelbase) with Gasoline Tank
Body—Less Camouflage Equipment
•11•
TM 9-801
f.
TRUCK, 21/2-TON, 6x6
LEFT FRONT VIEW
RIGHT REAR VIEW
STRAIGHT REAR VIEW
RA PD 332868
Figure 5—CCKW-353 (Long Wheelbase) with Water Tank
Body—Less Camouflage Equipment
•12*
TM 9-801
3-4
EARLY MODEL
-. f GENERAL. MOTOfU 1
U^/NOMENCLATURE -TRUCK 2\ TON 6X0 [
^ SUPPLY SERVICE MAINTAINING VEHICLE
ORDNANCE DEPARTMENT
MAKE AND MODEL - GMC-CCKW-333
MFG'S. SERIAL NO. -
VEHICLE WT. UNLOADED
MAX. PAY LOAD
MAX. GROSS WT.
CONCERNED
PRESCRIBED BY SERVICE
OCTANE RATING OF GASOLINE - T0 MIN
S.A.E. GRADE OF OIL BELOW 32* r - OE 10
3.AE. GRADE OF OIL ABOVE 32*F-OE30
GMC TRUCK A COACH DIVISION
GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION
PONTIAC. MICHIGAN
'RING MOUNT
t)RIMC MOUNT
OVERALL LENGTH
OVERALL WIDTH
OVERALL HEIGHT
LOWEST OPERABLE HEIGHT
SHIPPING CUBIC
SHApING TONNAGE
'
LATE MODEL
Figure 6—Vehicle Nomenclature Plates
RA PD 332860
oil service, shop, topophoto, and air compressor. These bodies are not
described in this manual.
4. DIFFERENCES AMONG MODELS.
a. Model Designation. Model designation symbols, together

with suffix letters and numbers, are stamped on nomenclature plate

(fig. 6). These identification letters and numbers are all that are
necessary to identify the vehicle as to wheelbase, type of axle, body
type, and whether or not it is equipped with a winch. The numerals
appearing after the model designation and the equipment suffix rep-
resent the chassis serial number. The nomenclature plate used on
late vehicles contains information pertinent to shipping (fig. 6). The
following table itemizes and explains the vehicle identification sym-
bols.
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
Symbols
GMC Model
Suffix
Wheelbose
rype
Typ»
CCKW-352
Al
145-inch
split
cargo
CCKW-352
Bl
145-inch
split
cargo
CCKW-352
A2
145-inch
banjo
cargo
TM 9-801
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION fCont.)
Symbols
Equipment
Suffix
Chassis
Wheelbase
CMC Made/
CCKW-353
A2
164-inch
CCKW-353
Bl
164-inch
CCKW-353
B2
164-inch
CCKW-353
Dl
164-inch
CCKW-353
D2
164-inch
CCKW-353
Al
164-inch
CCKW-353
G2
164-inch
CCKW-353
HI
164-inch
CCKW-353
H2
164-inch
Explanation of Symbols
Axle Bady
Type Type Winch

banjo cargo none
split cargo yes
banjo cargo yes
split gas tank none
banjo gas tank none
split water tank none
banjo water tank none
split dump yes
banjo dump yes
BANJO TYPE AXLE
SPLIT TYPE AXLE
RA PD 64499
Figure 7—Axle Hausing Identification
b. Axle Housing Types. Vehicles may be equipped with either
split type (indicated by suffix numeral 1) or banjo type (indicated
by suffix numeral 2). These axle housing types can be identified as
illustrated in figure 7.
c. Spare Tire and Vehicle Gas Tank Location.
(1) SHORT WHEELBASE (CCKW-352). Spare tire and wheel
carrier, and gasoline tank on short wheelbase chassis (CCKW-352)
are mounted across chassis frame at rear of cab.
(2) LONG WHEELBASE (CCKW-353). On long wheelbase
chassis with cargo or cargo dump body only, spare wheel and tire
are mounted under body on frame left side rail. The gasoline tank is
mounted on frame right side rail immediately forward of forward
rear wheel. On long wheelbase chassis with gas or water tank body,
the spare wheel and tire are mounted on frame back of cab, while
vehicle fuel tank location remains the same as on conventional long
wheelbase chassis.
14*
TM 9-801
ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER—ON RIGHT SIDE OF BLOCK
ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER—ON LEFT SIDE OF BLOCK
PUBLICATIONS APPLYING TO THIS VEHICLE
OPERATORS MANUAL TM 9-801
MAINTENANCE MANUAL TM 9-1801
PARTS LIST SNL-G-508
PUBLICATIONS PLATE
RA PD 332890
Figure 8—Engine Serial Number and Publication Plates
d. Engine Serial Number and Plate (fig. 8). This plate in-
cludes engine serial number, cylinder bore, piston stroke, and number
of cylinders. Plate is attached to left side of engine crankcase. Engine
serial number is also stamped on right side of engine crankcase near
distributor.
e. Publication Plate (fig. 8). This plate includes TM numbers
of technical manuals and parts list to use with vehicle. Plate is lo-
cated on dash panel above package compartment
f. Water Tank and Gasoline Tank Body Camouflage (fig. 9).
Some vehicles, equipped with water tank or gasoline tank bodies,
are provided with bows and tarpaulins to serve as camouflage. With
tarpaulin installed, vehicles have the appearance of cargo bodies.
•15*
TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2'/2-TON, 6x6
WATER TANK WITH TARP BOWS
WATER TANK WITH TARP INSTALLED
GAS TANK WITH TARP BOWS
RA PD 332944
Figure 9—Tarpaulin Camouflage Equipment far
Water or Gasoline Tank Body
5. TABULATED DATA.
a. Engine Specifications (All Vehicles).
Type Valve-in-head
Number of cylinders 6 in-line
Horsepower (S.A.E.) 34.35
Displacement (Cu in.) 269.5
Bore (in.) 325/32
Stroke (in.) 4
Engine governed speed (rpm) 2,750
•16•
TM 9-801
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TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
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TM 9-801
6-7
TRUCK, 21/j-TON, 6x6
Section III
TOOLS, PARTS, AND ACCESSORIES
6. PURPOSE
a. The lists in this section are for information only and must not
be used as a basis for requisition.
7. ON VEHICLE TOOLS*
a. Pioneer Tools (fig. 11).
Quantity *
Per Slockog*
Vehicle Number Nam. Stowag* Location
1 41-A-1277 Axe, chopping, single bit,
5 Ib R. H. running
board
1 41-M-720 Mattock, pick Ml, with
handle R. H. running
board
1 41-S-3170 Shovel, D handle, round
point L. H. running
board
b. Vehicle Tools (fig. 12).
(1) Following tools are supplied with all vehicles:
1 41-H-523 Hammer, machinists, 16-
oz Tool compartment
1 GM-2146130 Handle, wrench (used with
wheel nut wrench) .... Tool compartment
1 41-J-72 Jack, hydraulic, 3-ton,
with handle Tool compartment
1 41-P-1650 Pliers, combination—
'6-in Tool compartment
1 41-S-1076 Screw driver, common,
heavy duty, 6-in Tool compartment
1 41-S-1636 Screw driver, No. 1, cross
recess—3-in Tool compartment


1 41-W-991 Wrench, engineers, open
end, %-in. and 7/(s-m.. . Tool compartment
1 41-W-1003 Wrench, engineers, open
end, ^-in. and 1%2-in... Tool compartment
1 41-W-1005-5 Wrench, engineers, open
end, %-in. and %-in- • Tool compartment
end, î-in. and %-in.. Tool compartment
•20•
TM 9-801
PIONEER TOOLS—RIGHT-HAND RUNNING BOARD
PIONEER TOOLS-LEFT-HAND RUNNING BOARD
SPARE PARTS KIT CONTAINER
GASOLINE CAN SPOUT
RA PD 332993
Figure 11—Pioneer Tools, Spare Parts Kit, and OH Can Spout
•21•
TM 9-801
7-8
Quantity
P*r Slockage
Vehicle Number Nam* Stowage Location
end, %-in. and J-g-in... Tool compartment
1 41-W-450 Wrench, adj. auto type—
15-in Tool compartment
1 41-W-3335-50 Wrench, spark plug, with
handle Tool compartment
1 41-W-3838-30 Wrench, wheel nut Tool compartment
(2) The following tool is included in vehicles equipped with
banjo type axles:
1 41-W-1493-30 Wrench, wheel bearing
nut Tool compartment
(3) The following tools are included in vehicles equipped with
split type axles:
1 41-W-1991-10 Wrench, front wheel bear-
ing nut Tool compartment
1 41-W-3825-100 Wrench, rear wheel bear-
ing nut Tool compartment
(4) The following additional tools are supplied with vehicles
equipped with water tank bodies:
1 41-P-1650 Pliers, combination—
6-in Equipment chest
1 Screw driver—3 -in Equipment chest
1 Wrench, adj. hydrant... .Equipment chest
1 Wrench, box end—J^ x
%-in Equipment chest
2 Wrench, adj. pipe—
1 Wrench, adj. (monkey)—
2 Wrench, spanner—
1 J^-in Equipment chest
(5) The following additional tool is supplied with vehicles
equipped with gasoline tank bodies:

1 GM-2165960 Wrench, discharge faucet.Cabinet

8. ON VEHICLE EQUIPMENT.
a. The following equipment is supplied with all vehicles:
1 Catalog, Ord. std. nomen-
clature list G-508 Instrument panel
compartment
1 Book, technical manual,
TM 9-801 Instrument panel
compartment
1 41-B-15 Bag, tool Tool compartment
2 Container, liquid Running boards
4 8-C-1575 Chain, dual tire Under driver's seat
2 8-C-2380 Chain, single tire Under driver's seat
1 58-E-202 Extinguisher, fire—1 qt.. In bracket in right
side of cab
•22•
TM
9-801
A CROSS RECESS TYPE SCREWDRIVERS
B STANDARD SCREWDRIVER
C ADJUSTABLE WRENCH
D BALL PEEN HAMMER
E TIRE PRESSURE GAGE
F PLIERS
G END WRENCHES
H SPARK PLUG WRENCH
I IRON WIRE
J SPARK PLUG
K SPARK PLUG GASKET
L TIRE VALVE CAPS
M TIRE VALVE CORES
N TOOL BAG
O FRICTION TAPE
P LUBRICATION GUN
Q LUBRICATION GUN NOZZLE
R JACK
S JACK HANDLE
T WHEEL NUT WRENCH
U OILER AND SPOUT
V COTTER PINS
W WHEEL BEARING NUT WRENCH
X HANDLE FOR BEARING AND
WHEEL NUT WRENCH
Y DRIVE BELT
Z TIRE PUMP AND HOSE
Figure 12—Tools and Spare Parts
RA PD 331972
•23•
TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
Quontirx
Per Stockagt
Vehlcl* Number Norn* Stowoge Location
1 41-G-615 Gage, tire pressure Tool compartment
1 41-G-1344-40 Gun, lubricating, hand
type Tool compartment
1 13-O-1530 Oiler, straight spout,
spring bottom Front of dash
1 Order, Lubrication, War
Department No. 504. . In holder on cab
1 8-P-5000 Pump, tire Tool compartment
1 Spout, gasoline can Right side of in-
strument panel
b. The following additional equipment is included in vehicles
not equipped with winch.
1 GM-2146902 Bracket, starting crank.. Tool compartment
1 GM-2147197 Crank, starting Tool compartment
c. The following additional equipment is supplied with vehicles
equipped with winch.
1 GM-111301 Adapter, lubrication gun.Tool compartment
1 19-B-30990 Block, snatch Under driver's seat
1 GM-2146903 Bracket, starting crank.. Tool compartment
1 GM-2147196 Crank, starting Tool compartment
d. The following additional equipment (fig. 13) is supplied with
vehicles equipped with gasoline tank bodies:
2 OM-2144329 Can, gasoline—5 gal On body run
boards
1 OM-2165986 Coupling, hose—2 x lj^-
in. dia Cabinet
1 OM-2165987 Coupling, hose—2 x 1^-
in. dia Cabinet
1 GM-2165985 Coupling, twin—2 x T-in.
dia Cabinet
1 GM-2144530 Funnel Cabinet
1 GM-2165980 Gage, measuring Cabinet
1 GM-2182360 Hose, gasoline—10 ft long. Cabinet

2 GM-2154988 Hose, gasoline—8 ft long. Cabinet

2 GM-2165984 Nozzle, valve Cabinet
e. The following additional equipment (fig. 13) is supplied with
vehicles equipped with water tank bodies:
1 WV-U-196 Crank, starting Pump cabinet
1 Gage, measuring. Equipment com-
partment
3 Hose, discharge—25 ft.
.' •. long......'.". Equipment com-
partment
V<» ;i Hose, suction—10ft. long. Equipment com-
partment
. . :.1; •'," . Nipple, pipe— 1^ x 6 in.. Equipment chest
1 Nipple, pipe—1% x 1%
in.. Equipment chest
•24•
TM 9-801
8-9
Qvonffty
Per Stocfcoge
Vehicle Number Nome Stowage Location
3 Pipe, immersion heater
stove On body running
boards
1 Reducer, fire hydrant 2^
x 1 }/i in Equipment chest
1 Strainer, suction hose.... Equipment chest
3 Strap, stove pipe On body running
boards
1 Nozzle, valve Equipment chest
9. ON VEHICLE SPARE PARTS.
a. Following parts are supplied with all vehicles (fig. 12).
1 8-C-5498-50 Container, metal, spare
parts containing Under co-driver's
seat
1 GM-2190551 Belt, drive Spare parts con-
tainer
1 8-C-650 Kit, tire valve cap Spare parts con-
tainer
1 8-C-6750 Kit, tire valve core .Spare parts con-
tainer
1 17-L-5215 Lamp, electric, incandes-
cent r Spare parts con-
tainer
1 8-L-421 Lamp unit, blackout stop.Spare parts con-
tainer
1 8-L-415 Lamp unit, blackout tail. Spare parts con-
tainer
1 8-L-419 Lamp unit, service tail
and stop Spare parts con-
tainer
1 42-P-5347 Pin, assorted cotter Spare parts con-
tainer
1 GM-1558516 Plug, spark, with gasket. Spare parts con-

tainer
1 17-T-805 Tape, friction Spare parts con-
tainer
1 41-W-1067 Wire, iron Spare parts con-
tainer
b. Following additional parts are supplied with vehicles
equipped with winch:
1 GM-2186735 Kit, shear pin Spare parts con-
tainer
c. Following additional parts are supplied with vehicles equipped
with gasoline tank bodies:
2 GM-2182361 Clamp, hose Spare parts con-
tainer
•25•
TM 9-801
TRUCK,
-TON, 6x6
WATER TANK BODY EQUIPMENT COMPARTMENT
GASOLINE TANK BODY LEFT SIDE CABINET
GASOLINE TANK BODY RIGHT SIDE CABINET
Figure 13—Tank Body Compartments
>A PD 333003
Quantify
P»r Sfaclroge
Vehicle Number 0 Name Stowage Locatian
d. Following additional parts are supplied with vehicles equipped
with water tank bodies:
1 TL-OW-363 Bowl, strainer Equipment chest
1 Gasket, set (3 pc) Equipment chest
•26•
TM 9-801
9-10
Quantity
P»r Stockagf
Vthkl* Number Narn* Stowage Location
I Gasket, set (10 pc) Equipment chest
1 Piston and connecting
rod Equipment chest
6 WV-YD-24 Plug, spark .. . . . Equipment chest
2 WV-AE-73-C Valve, exhaust Equipment chest
10. SPECIAL TOOLS.
a. This special tool list is for information only, and must not
be used as a basis for requisition.
Federal Stack No. Vender No. Name af Taal
41-A-18-251 TEC-50-35 Adapter, steering wheel puller (use
with 41-P-2954)
41-A-335 KM-K-411 Arbor, clutch alining
41-H-1074 KM-J-1660-1 Handle, driver
41-H-1511 KM-J-872-5 Handle, driver (use with 41-R-2396-
20)
41-H-1780 KM-J-1660-3 Head, driver, remover and replacer,
bearing cup (front wheel inner
and outer)
41-P-2906-15 KM-J-164 Puller, clutch pilot bearing
41-P-2898 KM-J-918-G Puller, front and rear wheel inner
bearing and oil seal (banjo)
41-R-2397-425 SH&G-I-440112 Replacer, rear spring seat seal, inner
41-R-2391-30 KM-J-1733 Replacer, rear spring seat inner
bearing
41-R-2391-83 KM-J-1712 Replacer, front and rear wheel inner
bearing (split)
41-R-2396-12 KM-J-1709 Replacer, rear wheel bearing inner
and outer cup (split)
41-R-2385-275 KM-J-4221 Replacer, rear spring seat inner
bearing cup
41-R-2385-276 KM-J-4222 Replacer, rear spring seat outer
bearing cup
41-R-2396-22 KM-J-872-4 Replacer, rear wheel inner bearing

cup (banjo)
41-R-2396-20 KM-J-872-1 Replacer, rear wheel outer bearing
cup (banjo)
41-S-503 KM-J-544-A Scale, steering gear checking
41-S-3832-7 /TEC-20789 1 Sling, engine lifting
\YT-20-E-190/
41-W-2964-700 KM-J-187-1A Wrench, socket (special cylinder
head bolt) (close sweep) %-in.
hex. J^-in. sq drive
•27•
TM 9-801
11-12
TRUCK, 2YJ-TON, 6x6
PART TWO
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Section IV
CONTROLS AND INSTRUMENTS
11. GENERAL.
a. The gages, switches, pedal and lever controls, and miscel-
laneous operating controls are grouped in the driver's compartment
or cab (fig. 14).
b. General Data.
Vehicle weights and dimensions Refer to paragraph 5
Fuel tank capacity 40 gal
Cooling system capacity 19 qt
Crankcase capacity (refill) Refer to section VIII
Tire pressure Refer to paragraph 198
Type of service brakes Hydraulic-vacuum
Electric system 6 volt
Spark plug size 14 MM
Transmission Five forward—one reverse
Direct drive in Fourth
Overdrive in Fifth
Shifting arrangements See figure 18
Maximum driving speeds in See figure 19
various gears
Governed speed 2,750 engine rpm (45 mph)
12. GAGES AND SWITCHES.
a. Instrument and Dash Panel (fig. 15). All gages, speedome-
ter, and panel lights are mounted in instrument panel on dash panel.
Light and ignition switches, and throttle and choke control buttons,
are mounted on dash board adjacent to instrument panel.
b. Ignition Switch (fig. 15). Switch is lever type. Handle must
be turned to "ON" position before engine can be started.
c. Temperature Gage (fig. 15). Gage, operated through a capil-
lary tube connected to engine thermal unit, indicates temperature of
water in cooling system—not quantity of water in system. Face of
gage unit is graduated from 100°F to 220°F. Operating temperatures
between 160°F and 220°F (205°F at high altitudes) are satisfactory

for efficient engine operation. Temperatures above 220°F (205°F

at high altitudes) or below 160°F (after several miles of operation),
indicate improper cooling system operation (par. 56).
d. Fuel Gage (fig. 15). Gage, electrically operated and inter-
connected with tank unit, indicates level of gasoline in fuel tank
and registers only after ignition switch is turned on.
e. Speedometer (fig. 15). Speedometer, which indicates road
•28•
12
•29-
TM 9-801

TM 9-801
12
TRUCK,
-TON, 6x6
HI
JKLMN'O P Q
WITH PUSH-PULL TYPE LIGHT SWITCH
WITH ROTARY TYPE LIGHT SWITCH
A INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS
B MAXIMUM ROADSPEED PLATE
C SHIFTING ARRANGEMENT PLATE
D COOLING SYSTEM DRAIN PLATE
E PUBLICATION PLATE
F OIL PRESSURE GAGE
C WATER TEMPERATURE GAGE
H INSTRUMENT PANEL
I SPEEDOMETER
J B.O. DRIVING LIGHT SWITCH
K FUEL GAGE
L MAIN LIGHT SWITCH
M AMMETER
N THROTTLE CONTROL
O IGNITION SWITCH
P CHOKE CONTROL
Q PANEL LIGHT SWITCH
R MAP COMPARTMENT
S WIRE CAUTION PLATE
RA PD 332861
Figure 15—Dash Panel and Instrument Cluster
speed of vehicle in miles per hour and records total mileage and
trip miles, is operated through a flexible shaft by transfer case gears.
Trip indicator can be cleared by turning button located on under
side of speedometer head.
f. Oil Pressure Cage (fig. 15). Oil presssure gage, located on
instrument panel, indicates pressure of lubricant in engine crank-
case; however, it does not indicate quantity of oil in crankcase. When
engine first starts, oil consistency may cause a sharp rise in pressure
reading. As oil warms up, pressure should recede slowly to normal
(5 pounds with engine at slow idle). Pressure readings may fluctuate

as engine speed increases or decreases. A sudden drop or an erratic

fluctuation of pressure indicates trouble.
g. Ammeter (fig. 15). Ammeter indicates charging activity of
generating circuit. Ammeter generally shows charge or plus ( + )
reading when engine is first started. Ammeter will generally show
additional charge reading as engine speed is increased, depending
upon amount cranking motor has drained the battery.
•30•
TM 9-801
12
SERVICE STOPLIGHT ONLY
SERVICE
BLACKOUT
PUSH-PULL TYPE ROTARY TYPE
RA PD 332864
Figure 16—Main Light Switch Operating Positions
h. Main Light Switch. Two types of main light switches have
been used (fig. 16).
(1) PUSH-PULL TYPE. Switch, located on instrument panel, is
a four-position push-pull type switch which controls both service
and blackout headlights and service and blackout stop and taillights.
Switch is equipped with a circuit breaker which automatically opens
circuit when a short circuit occurs, and closes circuit when thermo-
static element in circuit breaker cools off.
(a) Off Position. When switch control button is pushed com-
pletely in, all lights, both service and blackout, are turned off. Black-
out service stop lights cannot be operated with switch in this position.
(b) Blackout Position. When switch button is pulled to first
stage, blackout headlights and blackout stop and taillights are ener-
gized. Button is locked in place with automatic plunger type lock
when pulled to this position.
(c) Service Position. Switch locking button at left of switch
body must be depressed before switch button can be pulled to second
stage or service position. When switch is in service position, service
headlights, service stop lights and taillights, and instrument panel
lights are energized.
(d) Service Stop Light Position. When switch button is pulled
completely out, service stop lights may be operated for daylight
service.
(2) ROTARY TYPE. Switch is a five-position lever type. This
switch is also equipped with a circuit breaker.
(a) Off Position. When lever is placed in "OFF" position, all
lights, both service and blackout, are turned off.
(b)- Blackout Position. When lever handle is turned to right to
"BO MK" position, blackout front marker lights, and blackout stop
and taillights are energized.

•31•
TM 9-801
12
TRUCK, 2ya-TON, 6x6
(c) Blackout Driving Light. Before lever can be turned to "BO
DR" position, left blackout driving light, as well as blackout marker,
taillight, and stop light are energized.
(d) Service Stop Light Position. Before lever can be placed in
"STOP LT" position from "OFF" position, lock plunger must be held
in depressed position. When switch is in "STOP LT" position, service
stop lights can be operated for daylight conditions.
(e) Service Position. Before switch can be placed in "HD LTS"
position from "OFF," lock plunger must be depressed. With switch
in this position, service headlights, taillights, and stop light are ener-
gized. Plunger need not be depressed when turning switch from
"STOP LT" to "HD LTS" position.
i. Blackout Driving Light Switch (fig. 15). Switch (marked
"BO DRIVE"), used only when push-pull main light switch (sub-
par, h above) is used, is located on instrument panel and energizes
blackout driving light which is installed adjacent to left-hand service
headlight. The shielded driving light is used in addition to the
standard blackout headlights when additional illumination is neces-
sary during blackout conditions. Blackout driving light cannot be
operated until main light switch (subpar. h above) is in blackout
position.
j. Blackout Driving Light Switch (with Rotary Type Main
Light Switch). No individual switch is provided for the blackout
driving light on vehicles equipped with rotary type main light switch.
Refer to subparagraph h (2) (c) above for operation of blackout
driving light when rotary type switch is used.
k. Panel Light Switch (fig. 15). Switch, located on instrument
panel (marked "PANEL"), is a push-pull type and energizes instru-
ment panel lights after main light switch is placed in second or
service position.
1. Dimmer Switch (fig. 14). This is a foot operated switch, ac-
cessible to driver's left foot, and is used to control the upper and
lower headlight beams. Switch is not operative unless the main light
switch is in service position. Use of this switch permits driver to dim
lights when passing other vehicles, or to turn on bright lights when
needed.
m. Stop Light Switch. Stop light switch, which is connected

to hydraulic master cylinder, is not directly actuated by driver.
When brake pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid pressure actuates the
switch to light the stop lights when main light switch is in proper
position.
n. Cranking Motor Switch Control (fig. 14). Cranking motor
switch, mounted on body of cranking motor, is actuated by a foot
operated pedal located to right of accelerator pedal. Initial move-
ment of pedal engages cranking motor pinion with flywheel ring
gear. Further movement completes electrical circuit between battery
and cranking motor, causing armature to rotate, thus cranking
engine.
•32•
TM 9-801
13-14
13. LEVER CONTROLS.
a. Hand operated lever controls for transmission, transfer case,
front axle, and auxiliary equipment (winch and hoist) are located
in cab (fig. 14).
(1) TRANSMISSION. Transmission gearshift lever, accessible to
driver's right hand, is used to select the various gear ratios or speeds
provided in transmission. All transmission gear ratios are used in
connection with the transfer case. The transmission provides five
speeds forward and one reverse. Powr is transmitted directly through
transmission in fourth speed, providing a 1 to 1 gear ratio. In fifth
speed (overdrive) and all other speeds including reverse, the power
is transmitted through gears of various sizes to provide the desired
gear ratios. Use of transmission gearshift lever is explained in para-
graph 16.
(2) TRANSFER CASE. Transfer case shift lever is used to shift
transfer case into high or low range to engage driving axles, and into
neutral to disengage axles. Arrangement of this lever is such that low
range cannot be used until front axle lever is placed into "IN" posi-
tion. Shifting instructions are outlined in paragraph 16.
(3) FRONT AXLE. Front axle declutching lever is used to en-
gage and disengage the front driving axle. Lever has only two shift-
ing positions—"IN" and "OUT." Lever must be placed into "IN"
position (axle engaged) before transfer case shift lever can be
placed into low range position. Shifting instructions are outlined in
paragraph 16.
(4) HAND BRAKE. Hand brake lever, located to right of driver
(fig. 14), is used to control application of a brake band assembly
mounted on transfer case. This band operates directly on transfer
case output shaft, transmitting braking effort to wheels through
propeller shafts. Primary purpose of this brake is to hold vehicle in
stationary position or to assist in bringing it to an emergency stop—
not to brake vehicle during normal road operation. Lever is pulled
back to apply brakes. A pawl in lower end of lever engages notches
in sector at base of lever to hold it in various applied positions.
Spring loaded release lever at the handle releases pawl from sector
notches to permit release of brake.

(5) AUXILIARY DRIVE. Power take-off control levers for the

engagement of winch and hoist, when used, are located in cab (fig.
14). Instructions for the use of these auxiliary control levers are
outlined in paragraphs 24 and 25.
14. PEDAL CONTROLS.
a. Clutch. Clutch pedal, accessible to driver's left foot, engages
and disengages clutch from flywheel. When pedal is depressed,
clutch is disengaged, permitting shifting of transmission gears. When
pedal is released, clutch is engaged.
b. Service Brakes. Service brake pedal, accessible to driver's
right foot, controls application and release of vacuum-hydraulic op-
erated brake shoes at each wheel. Pressure applied to pedal in
various degrees applies brakes correspondingly. Release of brakes
is correspondingly as rapid as pressure on foot pedal is released.
736603 O - 47 3 "33 •
TM 9-801
14-15
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
c. Accelerator Pedal. This pedal, linked to carbureter, is ac-
cessible to driver's right foot. Pedal is used to accelerate or decelerate
engine as desired. When pedal is completely released, engine will
operate at set idling speed. Acceleration from idling to any desired
speed up to governed speed is obtained by depressing the pedal in
various degrees.
15. MISCELLANEOUS CONTROLS.
a. Throttle Control Button (fig. 15). Throttle control button
(marked "THROTTLE") is located on dash panel. Button is inter-
connected to carbureter and may be used instead of accelerator
pedal to accelerate engine. The button is pulled out in varying de-
grees to accelerate engine and must be pushed back to decelerate.
This control is generally used to set throttle to desired starting and
warming-up speed, and to obtain sustained speeds when operating
auxiliary units.
b. Choke Control Button (fig. 15). Choke control button
(marked "CHOKE") is located on dash panel. Button is intercon-
nected to carbureter choke valve. When button is pulled out, car-
bureter choke valve closes. Return spring on choke linkage returns
choke valve to open position when button is released. This button is
used to operate choke when starting and operating a cold engine.
c. Windshield Wipers (fig. 14). Dual windshield wipers,
mounted on windshield frame, are vacuum operated. Control button,
located on each motor, permits independent operation of each wiper.
Control button on each wiper must be pulled out to operate wiper
and pushed in to turn wiper off. Each wiper is provided with a
manually operated lever to use in the event vacuum line or wiper
motor is broken.
d. Fuel Pump Hand Primer (fig. 17). Hand primer lever,
located at fuel pump, is used to prime carbureter in case vehicle
has been standing for long periods, or fuel has been drained from
Figure 17—Fuel Pump Hand Primer
.34.
TM 9-801
15-16
system, then refilled. As a general rule, several up and down move-
ments of the lever will pump sufficient gas to carbureter for starting.
e. Cowl Ventilator. Cowl ventilator lever, located inside cab
directly under center of dash panel, is used to open and close cowl
ventilator. Push down and forward on lever to open ventilator—
pull in handle to close.
f. Horn Button. Horn button, located in center of steering
wheel, must be depressed to sound electric horn.
Section V
OPERATION UNDER USUAL CONDITIONS
16. TRANSMISSION, TRANSFER CASE, AND FRONT AXLE
SHIFTING.
a. General. The purpose and use of the transmission and trans-
fer case must be understood by the driver before any attempt is
made to drive the vehicle. It must be understood that vehicle cannot
be moved until transfer case shift lever is in operating position (high
or low range). The transmission gearshift positions do not in any
way affect the selection of or shifting into the high and low ranges
in the transfer case. The transfer case is the medium by which the
power is transferred from the transmission to the driving axles. The
ratios provided by the transmission in various speed positions are
further increased by gear ratios in the transfer case.
b. Shifting Arrangements (fig. 18). Shifting instruction plates
showing shifting arrangements for transmission, transfer case, and
auxiliary equipment (when used), are located on dash panel.
c. Maximum Permissible Road Speeds. Maximum permis-
sible road speeds in various transmission gear positions and transfer
case gear ranges are listed on a plate (fig. 19) attached to dash
panel. These speeds must not be exceeded.
d. Driving Axle Combinations. Vehicles may be driven by
rear axles only, or by front and rear axles. Front axle cannot be
driven independently.
(1) DRIVING REAR AXLES ONLY. Transfer case must be op-
erated in high range only. Front axle declutching lever must be in
"OUT" position. Transfer case cannot be operated in low range when
only rear axles are driving.

(2) DRIVING FRONT AND REAR AXLES. Front axle declutching

lever must be placed into "IN" position before transfer case shift
lever is placed into low range. After front axle has been engaged,
transfer case can be operated in either low or high range.
e. Transfer Case Low and High Ranges. Various operating
•35•
TM 9-801
16
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
ENGAGE FRONT AXLE DRIVE
FOR OFF . THE - ROAD OPERATION
STEEP GRADES OR HARD PULLING.
ICHI GEAR I TRANSFER
CONTROL IP.T.O. I SHIFT I CASE I
DISENGAGE FRONT AXLE DRIVE
^ WHEN OPERATING ON DRY
» HARD SURFACE ROADS
ON FIRST LAYER OF ROPE
IN LOW SPEED Or TAKE-OFF
LINE SPEEDS REQUIRE
THAT WHEN THIS WINCH
IS USED TO ASSIST THIS
VEHICLE WITH WHEELS
DRIVING. THE TAKE-OFF
SHOULD BE IN LOW SPEED
TRANSMISSION IN LOW
GEAR, WITH TRA_NSFER
CASE IN LQW RANGE
VEHICLE AND WINCH
GUARANTEE REQUIRE THAT
THE WINCH SHALL BE OP-
ERATED AT ALL TIMES
AS REQUIRED BY APPROP-
WITH HOIST AND WINCH
ENGAGE FRONT AXLE DRIVE
FOR OFF - THE - ROAD OPERATION
I STEEP GRADES OR HARD PULLING.
OVERDRIVE
TRANSMISSION
TRANSFER
CASE
[DISENGAGE FRONT AXLE DRIVE
_. WHEN OPERATING ON DRY
HARD SURFACE ROADS
ON FIRST LAYER OF ROPE

<N LOW SPEED OF TAKE - OFF

LINE SPEEDS REQUIRE THAT
WHEN THIS WINCH IS
USED TO ASSIST THIS
VEHICLE WITH WHEELS
DRIVING, THE TAKE-OFF
SHOULD BE IN LOW SPEED.
TRANSMISSION IN LOW
GEAR, WITH TRANSFER
.-.IICLE AND WINCH
GUARANTEE REQUIRE THAT
THE WINCH SHALL BE
OPERATED AT ALL TIMES
AS REQUIRED By APPROP-
RIATE REGULATIONS.
WITH WINCH ONLY
ENGAGE
FRONT AXLE DRIVE
FOR OFF THE ROAD OPERATION
STEEP GRADES OR HARD PULLING
OVERDRIVE
TRANSMISSION
TRANSFER
CASE
OUT
FRONT
DISENGAGE FRONT AXLE DRIVE
WHEN OPERATING ON DRY
k HARD SURFACE ROADS j
WITHOUT HOIST AND WINCH
Figure 18—Shifting Arrangement Plates

TM 9-801
16
MAXIMUM PERMISSIBLE ROAD SPEEDS
IN THE FOLLOWING GEAR POSITIONS
RANSMISSION
TRANSFER CASE IN
LOW RANGE
BASED ON 275O R P. M. ENGINE MAXIMUM SPEED
6.6-1 AXLE RATIO & 7.5O-2O TIRES
>
BEFORE DRIVING THRU WIRE
CLOSE FRONT BRAKE VALVE
IN R.H. SIDE RAIL UNDER CAB
INSPECT HOSE AND OPEN VALVE
FOR NORMAL OPERATION
<
RA PD 332856
Figure 19—Maximum Permissible Road Speed
Plate and Wire Cutting Caution Plate
conditions must be considered before choice of transfer case high
or low range can be determined. The terrain, grade, and load must
be taken into consideration. The driver, after some experience, will
automatically select the correct transmission speed and transfer
case range.
(1) HIGH RANGE. As a general rule, transfer case high range
is employed when operating on the road where traction is not diffi-
cult and the load is light. This range may be used with front and
rear axles driving, but generally with only rear axles driving.
(2) Low RANGE. Transfer case cannot be operated in low
range until front axle is engaged. With transfer case in low range,
the greatest reduction is provided 'throughout all transmission
speeds. Low range is generally used during off-the-road operations
where maximum traction and power are required.
f. Transfer Case Shifting (fig. 18).
(1) HIGH TO Low RANGE. This shift should be made while
vehicle is on hard ground before difficult terrain is encountered.
Speed of vehicle should be reduced below the maximum speed of
gear into which shift should be made (fig. 19). Front axle must be
engaged (subpar. g below) before transfer case can be operated in

low range.
(a) Place front axle declutching lever into "IN" position (subpar.
g below).
•37•
TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
16
(b) Depress clutch pedal and move transfer case shift lever into
neutral ("N") position. Release clutch pedal and accelerate engine
(to approximately double that of vehicle speed).
(c) Depress clutch pedal again and move transfer case shift lever
forward into low range position. Do not use excessive pressure. Re-
lease clutch and accelerate engine to desired speed (refer to maxi-
mum permissible road speed plate, fig. 19).
(2) Low TO HIGH RANGE. This shift may be accomplished re-
gardless of vehicle speed.
(a) Depress clutch pedal, then move transfer case shift lever
into neutral ("N") position. Release clutch pedal and synchronize
engine with vehicle speed.
(b) Depress clutch pedal, then move transfer case shift lever
into high range position. Release clutch and accelerate engine. Front
axle declutching lever may, if desired, be placed into "OUT" posi-
tion without using clutch (subpar. g below).
g. Front Axle Declutching Lever Shifting. Front axle should
be engaged only in off-the-road operations, slippery roads, on steep
grades, or during hard pulling.
(1) ON-THE-ROAD OPERATION. The shifting arrangement plate
(fig. 18), states "Disengage front axle drive when operating on dry,
hard-surfaced roads." This rule generally holds true because in most
cases the pulling ability of the two rear axles is sufficient. How-
ever, if steep grades are encountered, or if vehicle is called upon to
help move an additional load, the front axle should be engaged in
order to utilize the pulling ability of all three axles. If heavy loads
are to be pulled, the front axle should also be used in getting ve-
hicle under way, after which it may be disengaged, provided the
two rear axles can pull the load without stalling the engine.
(2) OFF-THE-ROAD OPERATION. The shifting arrangement plate
states "ENGAGE FRONT AXLE DRIVE for off-the-road operation,
steep grades, or hard pulling." The rule holds true whenever the
pulling ability of all three axles is required. The driver must use
good judgement according to load as well as road conditions.
(3) ENGAGING FRONT AXLE. Front axle may be engaged at any
vehicle speed without declutching. However, if transfer case is in

high range and front axle is to be engaged, and it is desired to

operate in low range, shift front axle declutching lever into "IN"
position, then place transfer case into low range. Push declutching
lever forward quickly and all the way. If difficulty is encountered
after exerting a normal pressure on lever, "zig-zag" the front wheels
while in motion until engagement is completed.
(4) DISENGAGING FRONT AXLE. Front axle may be disengaged
at any vehicle speed. If transfer case is in high range, pull declutching
lever into "OUT" position without use of clutch; however, if transfer
case is in low range, place transfer case shift lever into high range,
then place axle declutching lever into "OUT" position. IMPOR-
TANT: // difficulty is encountered in disengaging front axle while
exerting a normal pressure on lever, push accelerator to floor rapidly,
then release instantly. If difficulty is still encountered, "zig-zag" the
•38•
TM 9-801
16
front wheels, run over bumps in road, or run right front wheel over
soft shoulder of road. If axle cannot be disengaged readily after fore-
going instructions—stop, reverse a short distance, then repeat above
procedure. Do not use excessive force on lever to disengage front
axle. Difficulty experienced when shifting front axle is not an indi-
cation of faulty shifting mechanism.
h. Transmission Shift from Low to High Speeds. With trans-
fer case shift lever in operating position (low or high), transmission
shift from low to higher forward speeds can be accomplished in
following manner: Refer to shifting arrangement plate (fig. 18)
mounted on dash.
(1) Depress clutch pedal and release accelerator pedal. Place
transmission shift lever from neutral into first speed position.
(2) Slowly release pressure on clutch pedal, at the same time
slowly depressing accelerator pedal. After engagement is made,
accelerate engine until road speed is increased to approximately
that indicated on maximum permissible road speed plate (fig. 19).
(3) After necessary road speed has been obtained in first speed,
release accelerator pedal, depress clutch pedal, and place transmis-
sion into second speed position. Release clutch pedal and accelerate
to proper road speed and repeat operations for third, fourth, and
fifth speeds—in successive stages.
(4) Fourth speed ratio is direct and is generally used for nor-
mal operations on average roads. Fifth speed is over-drive and is
generally used to attain maximum no-load speed on good roads.
i. Transmission Shift from High to Low Speeds. Transmission
should always be shifted into next lower speed before engine starts
to labor or before vehicle speed is appreciably decreased. The need
for down-shifting is generally apparent when ascending a steep
grade or when more power is needed to pull on rough terrain or in
muck or sand. As a precautionary measure, the same ratio used to
ascend a grade should be used when descending. When shifting to
a lower gear at any rate of vehicle speed, make sure that engine
speed is "synchronized" with vehicle speed before clutch is engaged.
When engine is operating at lower than relative vehicle speed, the
drive line may be damaged.

(1) Depress clutch pedal and release accelerator pedal the

same instant. Move transmission shift lever into neutral ("N").
(2) Release clutch pedal and accelerate engine momentarily
to synchronize transmission gears. Depress clutch pedal again and
move transmission shift lever into next lower speed. Do not force
lever, but rather "feel" it into position.
(3) Release clutch pedal and accelerate engine to desired speed.
Do not exceed speeds shown on maximum permissible road speed
plate (fig. 19). Transmission may be shifted successively into all
next lower speeds in same manner.
j. Transmission Shift into Reverse. Vehicle must be brought
to a dead stop before transmission gearshift lever can be placed
into reverse position. With transfer case in either high or low range,
shift transmission into reverse as follows:
.39.
TM 9-801
16-17
TRUCK,
-TON, 6x6
CCKW-353—EXTENSION INSERTED
CCKW-353— EXTENSION PULLED OUT
CCKW-352-ONE SIDE OF TANK SHOWN
Figure 20—Fuel Tank Filler Neck Locations
RA PD 332872
(1) Push clutch pedal down to disengage clutch. Press down on
foot brake pedal to stop vehicle.
(2) From neutral position, move shift lever as far as possible to
the right, then toward front to reverse ("R") position.
(3) Release clutch pedal and accelerate engine to desired speed;
however, do not exceed those speeds shown on maximum permissible
road speed plate.
17. ENGINE FUEL, OIL, AND WATER.
a. Fuel Supply (fig. 20). One fuel tank filler neck, with ex-
tension, located directly at tank on side of vehicle, is furnished on
long wheelbase chassis (CCKW-353), while the fuel tank on short
wheelbase chassis (CCKW-352) is equipped with a filler neck at
each side of tank.
(1) FUEL OCTANE. Octane rating of gasoline recommended is
specified on the vehicle nomenclature plate, and on the decalcomania
on engine valve cover. Initial timing of engine is made with this fuel.
If fuel of lower or higher octane rating is used, readjustment of igni-
tion timing is necessary (par. 87).
(2) FILLING TANK. When filling fuel tank, the supply hose must
be properly grounded to prevent static sparks. Pressure type filler
cap must be in good condition, and care must be used to prevent
entry of dirt, snow, and water into tank.
• 40•
TM 9-801
17
RA PD 332871
Figure 21 —Crankease Oil Filler and Dip Stick
b. Crankease Oil (fig. 21). Crankcase oil filler neck, mounted
on right-hand side of engine, is accessible after engine hood is raised.
Oil dip stick is also mounted on right-hand side of engine. Lower
portion of dip stick is graduated and shows level of oil in crankcase.
When checking oil level, dip stick should be withdrawn, lower por-
tion wiped dry, then reinserted and withdrawn again. Crankcase oil
level should be kept to "FULL" mark. Remove filler cap [(GM-
2162117) G501-01-31557] to replenish oil. Refer to section VIII
for lubrication instructions.
c. Cooling System. The basis of cooling system coolant is
fresh, deem water to which must be added a rust preventive com-
pound (par. 107) and antifreeze solution when necessary (par. 31).
(1) FILLING SYSTEM (fig. 22). Pressure type radiator filler cap
is accessible after engine hood has been raised. This type cap is in-
stalled on overflow tank, when used, with a plain notched type cap
installed on radiator.
(a) Removing Radiator Cap. Loosen cap slowly, particularly
when engine is hot. Turn cap in direction of arrow (counterclock-
wise). Turn cap until it reaches first stage or the safety stop. In
this position, cap should be loose so that it can be pressed down
against gasket, approximately l/a inch. If escaping air or steam is
heard, remove hand from filler cap until it stops. After steam and
pressure have been released, pr.ess the cap downward, turn to the ex-
treme left, then lift it off.
(b) Filling Radiator. Vehicle should be standing on fairly level
ground before starting to fill radiator. If system is empty, fill radia-
tor until liquid can be seen through filler neck. If the system is filled
with cold liquid, the thermostat will close even though the engine is
TM 9-801
17
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
RADIATOR FILLER NECK AND CAP
LEFT REAR SIDE OF ENGINE
FRONT OF RADIATOR CORE
RA PD 332873
Figure 22—Radiator Filling and Cooling System Drainage Points
warm. This action may trap air in cylinder block and head. The
trapped air will leak through thermostat vent hole, thereby lowering
liquid level in radiator. Additional coolant should then be slowly
added until no further air bubbles are noticed. This method should
be used if more than two quarts are necessary to refill radiator.
Always fill radiator until liquid is visible through neck. If engine is
cold, a loss of approximately one quart will result. If engine is warm,
no appreciable loss will be noticed.
(c) Use of Antifreeze Solution. Do not overfill radiator when
antifreeze solutions are used. Normal expansion of heated water
causes level to rise. When engine is-stopped and water cools, con-
traction of liquid lowers level. It is this apparent low level which
might indicate the need of additional fluid. Water in system should
be hot before any check of level is made.
(2) DRAINING SYSTEM (fig. 22). One drain cock is provided for
bottom of radiator and is accessible from lower side of brush guard.
•42•
TM 9-801
17-18
The second drain cock is located at left rear of engine cylinder block.
It is necessary to remove radiator filler cap when draining system.
18. OPERATING THE ENGINE.
a. Starting Engine. If vehicle has been parked in extreme cold
weather, follow instructions for cold starting outlined in paragraph
29.
(1) SET CONTROLS. All lever controls (transmission, transfer
case, winch, etc.) must be in neutral, out, or off position. If vehicle
fuel tank has been drained, refill, then work fuel pump hand primer
several times. Pull out throttle control button about Vi inch. Hold
out choke button about halfway if engine is cold.
(2) START. Turn ignition switch to "ON" position, depress clutch
pedal, then step on cranking motor lever pedal. Release pedal the
instant engine fires.
(3) SET CONTROLS. Release clutch pedal. Push throttle button
in. Release choke button after engine fires evenly.
b. Use of Cranking Motor. Cranking motor should not be en-
gaged for longer periods than 30 seconds. After cranking motor has
been engaged without results, a period of 10 to 15 seconds should
elapse before using it again. If engine will not start after reasonable
time, do not continue to use cranking motor until reason for failure
is determined and corrected (par. 49). If cranking motor fails to
crank or cranks slowly and battery is known to be in good condition,
report failure to proper authority; then use hand cranking (subpar.
c. below) or towing method (par. 23).
c. Hand Cranking (fig. 23). Starting crank with bracket at-
tached is furnished with each vehicle, and is used when hand crank-
ing or "turning over" engine. On vehicles equipped with winch, un-
WITHOUT WINCH
WITH WINCH
Figure 23—Use of Starting Crank
RA PD 332853
•43•
TM 9-801
18-19
wind cable by hand (par. 24) before the starting crank is installed.
After cable has been unwound, the two points or dogs of the starting
crank bracket must be inserted in the holes in front bumper to posi-
tion starting crank. Turn engine over several times with crank be-
fore the ignition switch is turned on. Crank engine with sharp, quick,
upward pulls. Do not attempt to "wind" the engine when using the
hand crank. Hand throttle should be pulled out about i/z inch, then
adjusted to desired idling speed after engine has been started.
d. Engine Warm-up. Engine should be permitted to operate
through a short warm-up period whenever conditions permit. This
warm-up period permits the driver to observe and check perform-
ance of engine before the vehicle is placed under way.
(1) OPERATING TEMPERATURE. The standard thermostat starts
to open at 160° F and is fully open at 185° F. Engine temperature
at gage may be slightly higher than at thermostat until thermostat
is fully open. Gage may register 190°F to 195°F during warm-up,
then drop back to 180° F to 185° F after thermostat is completely
open. The following precautions should be observed when checking
temperatures during warm-up or during operation.
(a) Operating temperature should not be below 160° F in any
climate. This temperature should be attained as soon as possible
during warm-up. As a general rule, engine operation equivalent to 5
miles driving should bring temperature to above 160° F.
(b) Operating temperatures between 160° F and 220° F (205°
F at high altitude) are satisfactory for engine operation. Tempera-
tures above 220° F (205° F at high altitude) and below 160° F
indicate improper cooling system operation.
(c) If temperature rises sharply and quickly above 220° F dur-
ing warm-up or operation, stop engine and determine cause of over-
heating.
(d) Select correct gear range when operating to prevent engine
from overspeeding (see Maximum Permissible Speed Plate, fig. 19).
(2) OIL PRESSURE. As engine warms up, oil pressure should
recede slowly to normal, approximately 5 pounds, with engine slow
idling.
e. Stopping Engine. Engine is stopped by turning ignition

switch to "OFF" position.

19. DRIVING THE VEHICLE.
a. Preventive Maintenance Services. One of the most essential
duties of a driver is the accomplishment of the preventive mainte-
nance services outlined in paragraphs 41 through 45. These services,
together with thpse recommended in section IX, New Vehicle Run-
in Tests, are as important as using good driving methods.
b. Equipment Stowage. Correct stowage of equipment and
tools before operating the vehicle is outlined in paragraphs 6 through
10. A thorough study should be made of methods for operation under
unusual conditions as outlined in paragraphs 29 through 35, as well
as instructions on the operation of auxiliary equipment (pars. 24
through 28).
.44.
TM 9-801
19
e. Steering. Vehicle is steered in conventional automotive man-
ner. Steering gear, operated by steering wheel, is connected to front
axle steering knuckles and tie rod through a steering arm and drag
link.
d. Use of Driving Axles and Maximum Permissible Road
Speeds. Use of driving axles and method of shifting transmission
and transfer case are outlined in paragraph 16. The maximum per-
missible road speeds are outlined on instruction plate (fig. 19)
mounted on dash. These speeds must not be exceeded.
e. Braking Vehicle. Application and release of service brakes
(foot brakes) are accomplished in the conventional automotive
manner. The driver applies pressure to foot pedal in varying degrees
to brake vehicle as desired. Service brakes apply to all six wheels;
therefore, only a normal amount of pedal pressure is required to
actuate brakes, providing power system is functioning properly.
(1) CHECKING VEHICLE SPEED. Release accelerator pedal. De-
press brake pedal slowly and evenly until vehicle is checked to
desired speed. Do not "fan" pedal, but apply even pressure. This will
permit the engine to assist in checking speed.
(2) NORMAL VEHICLE STOP. At the approach of a normal stop,
release accelerator pedal, then check vehicle speed by even pressure
on brake pedal. After vehicle speed is checked, depress clutch pedal,
and increase pressure on brake pedal until vehicle is stopped.
(3) EMERGENCY STOP. Release accelerator, step sharply and
hard on brake pedal, and at same time pull up on hand brake lever.
Depress clutch pedal. This action should be used only in emergencies.
(4) HAND BRAKE LEVER. This lever should not be used to brake
vehicle during normal driving. Primary purpose of hand brake is to
hold vehicle in stationary position.
f. Use of Lights. Refer to paragraph 12 for operation of light
switches.
(1) SERVICE HEADLIGHTS. The driver must depend upon the
service headlights for night time visibility. These headlights, when
aimed correctly and kept in good order, will provide adequate light-
ing for all conditions.
(a) High Beam. The high and low beams are controlled by foot-
operated dimmer switch after main light switch is ,in service posi-
tion. The high beam is generally used when there are no approach-
ing vehicles or when operating on unlighted roadways.
(b) Low Beam. The low or depressed beam should be used when
approaching and passing another vehicle. The low beam may not
throw light far enough ahead for clear road driving; however, when
another vehicle is approaching, objects between the two vehicles
show up in silhouette against the road. The visibility under this con-
dition is sometimes greater than the clear road visibility with the
high beam.
(2) BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT. This light is used only under
blackout conditions and is controlled by either a separate switch on
instrument panel when push-pull type main light switch is used, or
by a position on main light switch when rotary type is used.
•45•
TM 9-801
19-20
TRUCK, 2 1/2-TON, 6x6
(3) BLACKOUT TAILLIGHTS. The lens on each blackout light is
designed to produce two beams which merge into a single beam at a
specified distance. This design is such that when one truck is follow-
ing another at a safe distance, these two beams appear as a single
beam.
20. CAB SEATS, TOP, AND CURTAINS.
a. Cab Seats. Cab is equipped with individual seats for driver
and co-driver.
(1) DRIVER'S SEAT. Seat back is hinged to permit back to lay
forward. Seat bottom may be raised.
(2) CO-DRIVER'S SEAT. Seat back is also hinged; however, back
engages a spring retaining clip to hold it in upright position. Seat
bottom folds back on hinge and is held in back position by a sector
arm.
b. Cab Side Curtains (fig. 24). Each side of cab is equipped
with a side curtain hinged at front end of cab and latched at rear.
UPPER LATCH (INSIDE)
LOWER HINGE PIN
RA PD 333869
Figure 24—Side Curtain Installation
•46•
TM 9-801
20
LASHING AT REAR (OUTSIDE)
Figure 25—Top and Back Curtain Installation
LASHING AT REAR (INSIDE)
RA PD 332930
Upper curtain latch can be operated from inside or outside of cab.
Lower latches can be operated from inside of cab by reaching
through curtain hand hole.
(1) REMOVAL. Unlatch curtain and swing open about 90 de-
grees. Lift curtains straight up to disengage hinge pins from hinge
brackets. Lower hinge pin is flat and engages like portion of hinge
bracket.
(2) INSTALLATION. Hold curtain in open position with hinge
side to windshield. Insert curtain hinge pins in corresponding hinge
brackets. Push downward on curtains to engage pins in brackets,
then swing curtain against cab.
(3) STOWING CURTAINS. Stow curtains, when not in use, in
compartment behind driver's seat back.
c. Cab Top Deck. Cab top deck is one-piece type with side
rails (latest type) to hold top rigidly when installed.
(1) REMOVAL. Untie lashing from top bow ring nut at rear of
cab on each side. Unhook rope loop from cab rear lashing hook. On
latest type, disengage side rail pin from top bow at each side. Lift
top deck over top bow, and pull over windshield. Remove catch
.47.
TM 9-801
20
from eye at each upper corner of windshield. From either side, pull
top canvas from channel in top of windshield frame.
(2) INSTALLATION. Slide front end of top deck into channel in
top of windshield frame. Draw deck over rear top bow. Insert side
rail pin into bow hole at each rear side. Hook rear lashing rope loop
over hook at rear of cab. Hook front corners of deck over eyes on
upper corners of windshield frame, then place strap hook through
eyes. Lash rear sides of deck to top bow ring nut
d. Back Curtain (fig 25). Back curtain is one-piece canvas. Top
portion is attached by metal screws. Each leg of the top bow fits into
a socket at inside rear of cab. The bow is held in upright position
with a top bow ring nut on each side. Lashing rope, looped through
lower inside end of curtain, is lashed to a series of hooks attached
to cab in back of seats, with ends of ropes lashed to hooks on outside
of cab at each side. Lower sides of curtain are strapped to cab at
inside.
(1) REMOVAL. With top deck removed or rolled forward, un-
lash back curtain at sides (rope and straps), unhook rope at back of
seats, then remove cotter pin from each leg of bow. Loosen each top
bow ring nut, and pull bow and curtain straight up from sockets.
(2) INSTALLATION. Insert bow in sockets, then insert cotter pin
into each leg of bow. Holding bow in upright position, tighten ring
nut on each side of cab. Hook rear lashing rope on hooks at inside
rear of cab. Lash each end of rope to hook on each side of cab. Attach
side straps to loops inside of cab.
e. Positioning Top and Back Curtain for Accessibility (fig. 26).
TOP OVER WINDSHIELD
TOP AND BACK CURTAIN ROLLED
TOP ROLLED AND BACK CURTAIN DOWN TOP CURTAIN TURNED BACK
RA PD 332898
Figure 26—Top and Back Curtain Operating Positions
•48•
TM 9-801
20-22
Top deck and back curtain may be placed in various positions
for ventilation or accessibility.
(1) TOP DECK OVER WINDSHIELD (To Prevent Glare). Release
top deck at back and fold over windshield.
(2) TOP DECK AND BACK CURTAIN ROLLED. Release top deck
at back, fold side channels, then secure roll with front roll-up straps.
Unhook back curtain at sides and bottom, roll up to top of bow, then
secure roll with roll-up straps.
(3) TOP DECK ROLLED AND BACK CURTAIN Bow DOWN. Roll
top deck and back curtain as explained in step (2) above. Unscrew
side top bow ring nuts, and allow bow to slide down in sockets.
(4) TOP DECK CORNER TURNED BACK. Release rear rope and
front fastener on one side. Fold one corner of top deck over top.
21. CARGO BODY TARPAULINS.
a. Tarpaulins used with cargo and cargo dump bodies, and as
camouflage equipment on gas and water tank bodies, consist of a
separate top tarpaulin, front end curtain, and rear end curtain. Top
tarpaulin is supported by bows which are fitted into pockets in cargo
racks. The methods described in following subparagraphs permit the
removal, folding, and installation of tarpaulins in shortest possible
time.
b. Removal (figs. 27, 28, and 29).
(1) Untie all side and rear top tarpaulin lashing ropes. If these
were tied correctly, it will be only necessary to pull free end of each
rope. Front and rear curtains may or may not be removed at this
time.
(2) With all top tarpaulin ropes untied, make first fold on each
side lengthwise until lower edge of tarpaulin is even with top buckles.
(3) Make second fold lengthwise on both sides until both folds
meet
(4) Bring one folded side over the other fold.
(5) At each end, make an equal fold toward the center.
(6) Make another equal end fold until folded tarpaulin is laying
across center bow.
c. Installation. Reverse procedures as described in subpara-

graph b above.
d. Stowing Tarpaulins. Do not fold or stow tarpaulins if they
are wet.
e. Folding Top Tarpaulin for Ventilation. Untie all top tar-
paulin ropes. At each side, fold tarpaulin under three folds. Straps on
bows may then be lashed to buckles on tarpaulin. Tie front and rear
draw ropes to lashing hooks at each end of body.
22. WINDSHIELD OPERATION.
a. Tilted Position (fig. 30). Loosen the upper adjusting thumb
screw on each side. Push windshield outward at bottom to desired
angle, then tighten thumb screws.
736603 0-47-4 •49•

22
*SO•
TM 9-801
FIRST FOLD
FINAL FOLD
THIRD FOLD
FOURTH FOLD
RA PD 332943
SECOND FOLD
Figure 27—Method of Removing Top Tarpaulin

TM 9-801
22
fc-RA
FRONT CURTAIN LASHED
REAR CURTAIN LASHED
TOP TARP LASHING AT FRONT TOP TARP LASHING AT REAR
RA PD 332892
Figure 28—Lashing at Front and Rear
b. Lowered Position (fig. 30). Cab top must be either discon-
nected from windshield and folded back, or unhooked from rear of
cab and folded forward before windshield can be lowered. Loosen
RA PD 332899
Figure 29—Tarpaulin Raised in Ventilating Position
•il*
TM 9-801
22-23
LOWERED POSITION
Figure 30—Windshield Operating Positions
RA PD 332907
lower thumb screw nuts. Lay windshield forward into position, then
tighten thumb screw nuts.
23. TOWING THE VEHICLE.
a. Towing to Start. Engine may be started by towing vehicle
with another vehicle in the following manner:
(1) Tow chain or line should be of sufficient length to permit
maneuverability of both vehicles.
(2) In towed vehicle, pull throttle button out about l/z inch.
Hold choke out part way if not previously used. Place transmission
•52•
TM 9-801
23
in fourth speed. Place transfer case in high. Do not engage front axle.
(3) Turn on ignition switch.
(4) While being towed for the first 100 feet, hold clutch in dis-
engaged position. When towed vehicle speed reaches approximately
10 miles per hour, slowly engage clutch.
(5) Disengage clutch immediately after engine starts.
b. Towing Damaged Vehicles. Particular care must be ex-
ercised when towing damaged vehicles to repair bases to make cer-
tain that no additional damage occurs while vehicle is being towed.
(1) TOWING VEHICLES WITH ALL WHEELS ON GROUND.
(a) If transfer case on vehicle to be towed is not damaged, shift
transmission and transfer case in neutral position. In this position,
gears in transmission are not in motion; however, driving gears are
revolving in transfer case, and gears will cause enough lubricant
splash to provide lubrication for pocket bearings and main shaft
bushings.
(b) If transfer case is damaged, propeller shafts should be dis-
connected at front axle pinion, forward rear axle pinion, and pillow
block. Secure shafts to frame. Place bolts, nuts, and bearings in com-
partment in the cab.
(2) TOWING VEHICLE WITH FRONT WHEELS OFF GROUND.
Whenever vehicle is to be towed with front wheels off ground, ve-
hicle must be supported in such a manner that wheels of forward
rear axle contact ground. Disconnect propeller shafts at forward rear
axle and pillow block. Secure ends of shafts to frame.
LATCH
CLOSED
OPENING
Figure 31 —Pintle Hook Operating Positions
RA PD 332894
•53•
TM 9-801
23-24
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
(3) TOWING VEHICLE WITH REAR WHEELS OFF GROUND. Ve-
hicle should be towed backward only after other methods have
proven unsatisfactory. When towing vehicle backward, make certain
that front axle declutching lever is placed in "OUT" or disengaged
position.
c. Use of Pintle Hook (fig. 31). To open, remove pin, then
lift up latch and pull up lock with hand. To close, push down lock.
Latch will then be placed. Insert pin.
Section VI
OPERATION OF AUXILIARY EQUIPMENT
24. WINCH OPERATION.
a. General. Winch assembly, when used, is mounted forward of
radiator between frame side rail extensions. The unit is driven by
transmission power take-off through a drive shaft extending from
power take-off to winch worm shaft housing. Winch may be used on
short or long wheelbase chassis (CCKW-352 and 353) equipped
with cargo body, and long wheelbase chassis equipped with cargo
dump body (CCKW-353-H1 or H2). Winch is not used on chassis
equipped with water or gas tank bodies.
b. Controls.
(1) POWER TAKE-OFF. The engagement of the power take-off is
manually accomplished by means of a lever which extends through
the floor pan in the cab (fig. 33). This lever has three operating and
two neutral positions in following order fro'm rear of cab toward
front:
(a) When Winch Only Is Used (fig. 33). Low ("L"), neutral
("N"), reverse ("R"), neutral ("N"), and high ("H").
(b) When Winch and Power Hoist Are Used. Reverse ("R"),
neutral ("N"), low ("L"), neutral ("N"), and high ("H").
(c) Control Lever Catch (fig. 33). A hinge plate attached to
floor board beside lever provides positive means of locking lever
into a neutral position. This arrangement will prevent accidental en-
gagement of power take-off. The lever can be locked in the neutral
position between high ("H") and reverse ("R") when winch only is
used, and between reverse ("R") and low ("L") when winch and
power hoist are used.

(2) WINCH CONTROLS. An automatic safety brake on the winch

worm shaft will sustain load while the winch power take-off control
lever is being shifted into various positions. A manually operated
shift yoke at the winch is used to engage and disengage winch drum.
(a) Safety or Under Way Position. When vehicle is under way
and winch is not operating, shift yoke must be placed into engaged
position (fig. 32). Cable then will not unwind from drum while ve-
hicle is under way.
.54.
TM 9-801
24
CONTROLS AT WINCH
Figure 32—Controls at Winch
RA PD 332919
(b) Hand Winding Position. When necessary to wind-or unwind
the cable by hand, place shift yoke into disengaged position with
handle poppet engaged in hole. Cable drum may then be revolved
by hand.
(c) Operating Position. When winch is to be operated by power
take-off, place shift yoke into engaged position.
c. Operating Winch. Important: The winch will be more
powerful with all cable off the drum before it starts to operate. Under
many conditions, this is not possible; however, the best procedure
•55•
TM 9-801
24
TRUCK, 21/,-TON, 6x6
1H
1N
1L
)N
•R
WHEN HOIST IS USED
•R
1N
iH
WHEN WINCH ONLY IS USED
SHIFT RVTTERN
LATCH RELEASED
LATCH LOCKED POSITION
Figure 33—Winch P.T.O. Control Lever
LEVER ARRANGEMENT
RA PD 332985
to use is to pay-out as much cable as possible from the winch drum
before starting to pull.
(1) To HOOK ON. Place shift yoke into disengaged position (fig.
32). Pull out enough cable to make hook-up.
(2) To PULL (WiND IN). After hook-up has been made, place
shift yoke into engaged position (fig. 32). Depress engine clutch ped-
al, place winch power take-off control lever in low ("L") if load is
heavy, or into high ("H") to take up slack if load is light. Release

clutch pedal, then accelerate engine to proper speed (step (a)

below).
(a) Pulling Speeds. Winch pulling speeds are based on a maxi-
mum engine speed of 1,000 revolutions per minute. This speed must
not be exceeded when operating winch. Operating at a faster speed
will result in excessive strains and probable failure of parts.
(b) Use of Power Take-off Low and High Ranges. Use high
("H") range when handling light loads and low ("L") range when
handling heavy loads. Do not race engine when winching, particu-
larly when handling light loads or when winding cable with no load.
(3) To LOWER (PAY-OUT).
(a) With Load. With shift yoke in engaged position, depress
clutch, place winch power take-off control lever into reverse ("R")
position, release clutch, and accelerate engine to desired speed.
(b) Without Load. It is not necessary to use power take-off en-
gagement if cable is to pay-out without load. Place shift yoke in
disengaged position.
•56•
TM 9-801
24
(4) WINDING CABLE. Cable should not be wound on drum with-
out some load. Winding on first layer of cable is most important.
Coils of cable must be tight against each other to-prevent coils on
next layer from pressing down between them. Cable should be wound
on drum evenly and slowly to obtain this result. After first layer is
wound evenly, it is necessary to see that each additional layer starts
back across drum properly. Two methods of winding cable can be
used (steps (a) and (b) below).
(a) With Load on Cable. Cable should be properly attached to
an anchor or tree and vehicle pulled forward by winch. A very light
pressure on vehicle brake by operator while winding cable will in-
sure a tight, neat wind.
(b) With Winding Fixture. A fixture such as illustrated in figure
34 may be used to maintain slight tension on cable when it is guided
into drum. This fixture is not a special tool and can be made up
locally. Two main sections can be made from heavy lumber such as
2x4 strips or larger. The guide block is of metal approximately
4x4x6 inches, split through drilled hole to permit insertion of cable
and split bushing. It is tightened by means of stud with a large wing
nut to obtain desired cable tension. End of fixture may be securely
clamped to front bumper with a hooked bolt or C-clamp as shown.
Pivot point is at ground level. This will permit swinging free arm,
with guide block, back and forth to guide cable and wind it in even
layers on drum.
(5) USE OF DRIVING WHEELS WITH WINCH. If vehicle is assist-
ing itself with its own winch, all driving wheels should be utilized.
Always start wheels operating the instant winch cable starts to take
the load; in other words, do not start driving wheels if there is a slack
in winch cable. When driving wheels are used to assist winch oper-
ation, power take-off lever must be in low ("L"), transmission in low,
and transfer case in low range.
Figure 34—Use of Fixture to Wind Cable
FIXTURE
RA tO 64674
•57•
TM 9-801
24-25
•'SHEAR PINi,
SAFETY COLLAR AT WINCH
RA PD 332870
Figure 35—Safety Shear Pin Installation
(6) SAFETY SHEAR PIN REPLACEMENT. One safety shear pin is
used to connect the winch front drive shaft universal joint to the
winch worm shaft. This pin is designed to shear when the winch is
loaded beyond its capacity. Spare pins are furnished with the vehicle
and are stowed in the compartment underneath co-driver's seat. Use
the regulation shear pin, do not use a substitute. Replace shear pin
in following manner:
(a) Move Safety Collar (fig. 35). Loosen set screw in safety
collar located at slip joint at power take-off. Slide collar away from
slip joint.
(b) Remove Sheared Pin. Slide front universal joint back on
winch worm shaft, at winch, until sheared portion of pin is exposed
in worm shaft. With a punch, drive portions of pin from winch worm
shaft and universal joint yoke.
(c) Install Shear Pin. Apply a small amount of chassis grease to
end of winch worm shaft; then slide universal joint yoke over end
of winch worm shaft. Aline shear pin hole in shaft with yoke. Install
shear pin and secure with new cotter pin (fig. 35).
(d) Position Safety Collar. Locate safety collar so that a space
of l/2 inch exists between collar and yoke. Tighten collar set screw.
(7) RIGGING. Reference should be made to authoritative man-
uals on rigging and the use of snatch blocks. Rigging should be
placed, whenever possible, to permit straight pull from winch.
25. CARGO DUMP BODY OPERATION.
a. General. The combination cargo-dump body is an all-steel
body, which can be used either as a cargo or dump unit. A hydraulic
hoist and subframe assembly, mounted on the chassis under the
body, elevates the body when being used as a dump truck. Controls
for operation of the hoist are located in the cab. Hoist pump, when
engaged, is driven by transmission power take-off through drive
shafts connecting power take-off with hoist pump.
b. Hoist Operation.
(1) GENERAL. Hoist should only be used when body is being

used for dumping purposes. Do not operate hoist pump when ve-
hicle is in motion. Controls for the operation of the hoist consist of
two levers, located in cab. One lever is used only to engage power
•58•
TM 9-801
25
LEVER ARRANGEMENT
RT.O. PUMP
HOLD
OUT .
RAISE
LOWER
SHIFT
ARRANGEMENT
RA PD 332941
Figure 36—Hoist Control Levers and Shifting Arrangements
take-off and start pump operating. Other lever controls pump action,
and is used only to raise, hold, or lower the body.
(2) To RAISE BODY. *
(a) Engage Power Take-off (fig. 36). With engine running at
slow idle, depress clutch pedal and move power take-off hoist control
lever rearward into "IN" position, then release clutch pedal.
(b) Engage Pump (fig. 36). With power take-off engaged (step
(a) above), move hoist, control valve lever ("PUMP") into center
("RAISE") position. Accelerate engine only sufficiently to raise body.
Racing the engine does not increase dumping speed, and may cause
damage to pump or force air into system. When hoist has reached its
full stroke, it will stop automatically; however, the clutch pedal
should be depressed and power take-off control lever moved to
"OUT" position.
(3) To HOLD BODY. Body can be held in any intermediate posi-
tion during raising or lowering by shifting hoist control valve lever
to "HOLD" position.
(4) To LOWER BODY. Engine need not be running to lower body.
Place hoist control valve lever ("PUMP") in "LOWER" position.
Body will return to horizontal position. Lowering speed should not
.59.
TM 9-801
25
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
TURNBUCKLE
CAB PROTECTOR
-- ^
FRONT RACK
FRONT VIEW REAR VIEW
Figure 37—Cab Protector Raised
RA PD 332863
be excessive and may be controlled by moving valve lever slightly
forward.
(5) UNDER WAY. Power take-off control lever must be in "OUT"
(not engaged), and hoist control valve lever in "LOWER" position
when truck is under way (except when spreading) (subpar. d
below).
c. Body.
(1) As A DUMP BODY. Before using the vehicle as a dump
truck, it is necessary that alterations be made as outlined in steps
(a) through (e) following.
CAB PROTECTOR
SUPPORT
CAB PROTECTOR
TURNBUCKLE
TURNBUCKLE
FRONT VIEW
REAR VIEW
Figure 38—Cab Protector Lowered
RA PD 333005
•60•
TM 9-801
25
LOADING PERSONNEL SPREADING
TAIL GATE POSITIONS
TAIL GATE LEVER
RA PD 332938
Figure 39—Tail Gate Lever and Tail Gate Positions
•61 •
TM 9-801
25
(a) Remove Tarpaulins. Untie and remove all tarpaulins and
end curtains.
(b) Remove .Seat and Side Rack Assemblies. Tag right- and
left-hand assemblies for identification at installation, then remove
each assembly.
(c) Adjust Cab Protector (figs. 37 and 38). Loosen cab pro-
tector turnbuckles at rear of front rack. Turn cab protector forward
until it extends over top of cab. Install turnbuckle hooks through
eye bolts in front rack. Tighten turnbuckle.
(d) Adjust Tail Gate (fig. 39). Tail gate is adjustable to several
positions. When used as a dump body, tail gate must be locked at
top with pins so that when dumped, gate will open at bottom. Tail
gate chain can be positioned to control opening of gate to obtain
desired spreading results.
(e) Raise Floor Partition. Raise partition in floor and lock in an
upright (vertical) position (fig. 40), with bolts at each end through
holes in body sides. NOTE: It is extremely important that partition
be raised, as this minimizes the possibility of overloading and dis-
tributes weight of load properly. Do not use body as dump body
until partition has been raised.
(2) As A CARGO BODY. Before using the vehicle as a cargo truck,
all items removed in steps (1) (a) through (1) (e) should be re-
installed or adjusted to their original position. Refer to figure 39 for
various tail gate positions and figure 38 for cab protector in folded
position. N
d. Spreading. When desired, the tail gate opening can be ad-
justed to limit the opening, thereby limiting the flow of material
being spread (fig. 39).
(1) Thread loose ends of tail gate chains into holes in rear cor-
ner post. Adjust chain length to limit tail gate opening. Install pins
at each upper corner of tail gate so that gate will hinge at top.
( 2 ) Engage 'power take-off before vehice is in motion and engine
running at slow idle as directed in subparagraph b (2) (a) above.
BODY PARTITION
CAB PROTECTOR
RA PD 332843
Figure 40—Body Partitian in Place

•62•
TM 9-801
25-26
(3) Pull tail gate control lever forward and down to unlatch
tail gate. Engage pump (subpar. b (2) (b) above), and raise body
two or three feet, or just enough so that material does not start to
spill out of tail gate.
(4) Place hoist control valve lever ("PUMP") in "HOLD" posi-
tion (fig. 36).
(5) Place transmission shift lever into 1st speed, transfer case
into low range, then with power take-off lever still engaged, release
clutch to set truck in motion. Transmission speeds used during
spreading operations are dependent upon road conditions and mate-
rial being spread. As a general rule, engine should not be operated
at excessive speed, as this also increases pump speed and may cause
damage to pump or force air into system.
(6) Raise body at intervals by moving valve control lever to
"RAISE" position, then back to "HOLD" position. Repeat this oper-
ation as required to cause free flow of material.
(7) When unloaded, stop truck and disengage power take-off
by moving lever to "OUT" position.
(8) Lower the body by moving valve control lever to "LOWER"
position. Push tail gate lever upward and rearward to lock tail gate.
26. WATER TANK BODY OPERATION.
a. General (figs. 41 and 42). The 700 gallon water tank, mount-
ed on long wheelbase chassis, is equipped with an auxiliary engine
and pump unit. Water can be unloaded from truck by gravity or by
pump. Water is loaded into the tank from any source by pumping
unit. Tank is insulated and is lined with special composition. Water
may be heated with portable gasoline type heater inserted directly
MANHOLE .
ENGINE AND PUMPING UNIT CABINET
Figure 41 —Water Tank Body
RA PD 332867
•63•
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26
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•64*
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TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6

TM 9-801
26
into heater through a manhole, or by exhaust heat through a con-
nection from vehicle exhaust system.
b. Equipment. Equipment cabinet at rear of body contains
necessary discharge hoses and tools for the operation and mainte-
nance of various controls. Lengths of suction hose are stowed on
racks on side of body. Auxiliary engine and pumping unit is housed
in compartment at left front side of body.
c. Auxiliary Engine and Pumping Unit. The pumping unit
consists of a self-priming centrifugal pump mounted on a common
base with, and driven by a single-cylinder, four-cycle, air-cooled
gasoline engine. The impeller of the pump is attached directly to
the engine crankshaft. Engine is self-lubricated and is equipped with
separate fuel tank. Refer to manual which accompanies the pumping
unit.
(1) AUXILIARY ENGINE OPERATION. Before auxiliary engine is
started, its fuel tank and crankcase must be filled. In addition, pump
controls must be set to desired position (subpar. d below), before
engine is started.
(2) STARTING ENGINE.
(a) Fill crankcase of engine with seasonal grade crankcase oil
(approx. 13A pints).
(b) Close shut-off valve in gasoline line, then fill fuel tank with
a good quality gasoline (same as used in truck).
(c) Open fuel line valve, then close choke on carbureter air inlet
horn. Turn choke lever away from engine.
(d) Carbureter needle valve opening is approximately % to 1 Vi
turns. In cold weather, starting may be facilitated by opening the
needle valve slightly more, then adjusting needle after engine has
started.
(e) Insert knot of starter rope in the notch in starting sheave at
flywheel end of engine, then wind the rope on sheave in clockwise
direction. Pull briskly on rope to turn the crankshaft over.
(f) If engine does not start immediately, repeat operation (step
(e) above). If choke in carbureter snaps open during hand cranking,
close choke again for two or three turns of engine. If fuel begins to
drip from carbureter, choke should be opened.

(&) When engine has started, flyball type governor will limit
engine to set speed.
(3) STOPPING ENGINE. Press red stop button, located on mag-
neto, for a few seconds until engine stops, then release pressure on
button. Engine can then be restarted if desired (step (2) above).
(4) PRIMING PUMP. Remove plug at top of pump body and fill
pump full of clean water. Replace plug. The pump will then reprime
automatically until it is necessary to drain the priming chamber.
(5) DRAINING PUMP. During cold weather, pump housing should
be drained if vehicle is to be parked. Close emergency valve and suc-
tion pipe gate valve. Place cap over end of discharge pipe. Remove
plug from bottom of pump housing and drain all water from housing.
d. Operating Pump (fig. 42). Pump may be operated to dis-
736603 O - 47 - 5 * 65 *
TM 9-801
26
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
charge water from tank, to pump water into tank, or using pump
unit to fill another water tank from an outside source.
(1) PUMPING FROM TANK.
(a) Connect discharge hose to outlet port.
(b) Close suction pipe gate valve.
(c) Open emergency valve (pull out handle).
(d) Start engine.
(2) PUMPING INTO TANK.
(a) Connect one end of discharge hose to outlet port and place
the other in fill hatch after opening hatch cover.
(b) Connect suction hose to suction pipe nipple, then open gate
valve.
(c) Close emergency valve (handle in).
(d) Start engine.
(3) USING PUMP UNIT TO FILL ANOTHER TANK.
(a) Close emergency valve (handle in).
(b) Connect suction hose to nipple, then open gate valve. Con-
nect discharge hose to discharge port.
(c) Start engine.
e. Emptying Tank by Gravity. Place cap on discharge port.
Connect suction hose to nipple, then open gate valve. Pull open
emergency valve. Water will then flow out of tank through suction
hose.
f. Heating Equipment.
(1) EXHAUST HEATER. The vehicle exhaust system is bypassed
through a heater box in water tank. The exhaust bypass valve is
manually operated by a control mounted on the dash panel to left
of steering wheel. Pull control handle out to open bypass valve.
CAUTION: Always close exhaust bypass valve (handle in) when op-
erating with empty tank. Operating with valve open while tank is
empty will cause damage.
(2) PORTABLE IMMERSION HEATER (fig. 43). A torch type
portable immersion heater is installed into tank through rear man-
hole on some tank bodies. This heater remains in tank, and when
heater stack is removed, manhole can be closed and latched. Heater
operates on gasoline, kerosene, or distillate. Operate heater in follow-

ing manner:
(a) Fill heater tank with fuel.
(b) Install three lengths of stack over exhaust port. Stack sec-
tions are stowed on side of body in a rack.
(c) Pull up torch from heater unit. Saturate torch with fuel, then
light.
(d) Lift damper, then insert lighted torch into intake compart-
ment, passing torch through opening in bottom damper opening into
exhaust compartment. Offset in torch rod will permit this manipula-
tion of torch. Lower damper, permitting it to rest on torch handle.
(e) Permit torch to burn in above manner for about 20 to 30
seconds; then lift damper and shift torch from exhaust compartment
straight down to top of burner in intake compartment.
•66*
TM 9-801
26-27
FILLER PL
FUEL TANK
STOVE PIPE
DRUM
MANHOLE PLUG
DAMPER ROD
BRACES 1
FUEL PIPE
DAMPER
BURNER
Figure 43—Immersion Heater
RA PD 332809
(f) Open fuel valve, below fuel tank, allowing a fast drip.
(g) After burner has operated for one minute, the fuel valve can
be set for desired speed. The minimum speed is 20 drops per min-
ute. Maximum speed is slightly under a stream. Smoke will appear
from stack when speed is too fast.
(h) Heater can be lifted from manhole as a unit. When heater
is removed, a manhole plug, such as used in the front manhole, must
be inserted in place of heater unit.
27. GASOLINE TANK BODY OPERATION.
a. General. Gasoline tank body, mounted on long wheelbase
chassis (CCKW-353) comprises two tanks, each of 375 gallon ca-
pacity, together with manually operated lever controls for the inde-
pendent discharging of each tank. Each tank can be filled through a
manhole located at top of tank.
•67•
TM 9-801
27
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
SAFETY FUSE
SELECTIVE OPERATOR VALVE CONTROLS
MANHOLE COVER AND VENT
DISCHARGE FAUCET
Figure 44—Gasoline Tank Controls
RA PD 333020
•68<
TM 9-801
27-29
b. Tank Controls (fig. 44).
(1) SELECTIVE OPERATOR VALVE CONTROL. Selective operator
valve controls are mounted in the right rear equipment chest and
are interconnected with emergency valves on bottom side of each
tank. Control levers are pulled forward when in discharge position.
Levers will automatically be released to off position when door of
cabinet is closed.
(2) FRONT END TRIP RELEASE. The front end trip release con-
trol handle is mounted at left front of body and is accessible to
driver. When this trip release handle is pulled out, discharge of each
tank is instantly sealed.
(3) DISCHARGE FAUCET. Faucet mounted at rear of body is
equipped with a dust cap and locking hasp. Faucet is key operated.
Spring loaded shut-off valve will hold shut when key is withdrawn.
(4) MANHOLE COVER. Manhole in each tank is equipped with
a sealed, hinged type cover provided with latch which can be pad-
locked when in closed position. Each cover is provided with a vent,
together with a fuse plug, which will provide additional vent in case
of fire.
(5) SAFETY CHAIN. Each body is equipped with a safety chain
of sufficient length to drag on the ground to prevent accumulation of
static electricity.
(6) EQUIPMENT COMPARTMENTS. Equipment compartments on
each rear side of body are furnished with door which hinges at top.
Right compartment contains the selective controls, as well as space
for additional equipment. Left compartment contains gage, gasoline
cans and other equipment.
28. TANK BODY CAMOUFLAGE EQUIPMENT.
a. Some of the water tank and gasoline tank bodies are pro-
vided with camouflage equipment. This equipment consists of regula-
tion cargo body bows, top tarpaulin, and rear curtain. These
parts are installed in same manner as on the cargo bodies. After
installation, the tank bodies have the appearance of regulation cargo
bodies.
Section VII
OPERATION UNDER UNUSUAL CONDITIONS

29. COLD WEATHER OPERATION.

a. General. The operation and maintenance of these vehicles at
low temperatures involve factors which do not exist at moderate
temperatures. Since subzero temperatures affect both metals and
lubricants, operation of the vehicles at these temperatures presents
problems that demand special precautions.
•69*
TM 9-801
29
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
b. Gasoline. Winter grade of gasoline is designed to reduce
cold weather difficulties; therefore, the winter grade of motor fuels
procured under U.S. Army Specification 2-103, grade C, latest re-
vision, will be used in gasoline engines of all vehicles. For vehicles
within the continental limits of the United States, the winter grade
of gasoline meeting U. S. Army Specification 2-114, grade C, will be
used.
(1) STORAGE. Due to condensation of moisture from the air,
water will accumulate in tanks, drums, and containers. At low tem-
peratures, this water will form ice crystals that will clog fuel lines
and carbureter jets unless the following precautions are taken.
(a) Strain the fuel through filter paper or any other type of
strainer that will prevent the passage of water. CAUTION: Gasoline
flowing over a surface generates static electricity that will result in a
spark unless means are provided to ground the electricity. A metallic
contact between the container and the tank will be provided to in-
sure an effective ground.
(b) Keep tank full if possible. The more fuel there is in the
tank, the smaller will be the volume of air from which moisture can
be condensed.
(c) Add one quart of denatured alcohol, grade 3, to the fuel
tank at start of winter season, and one pint per month thereafter.
This will reduce the hazard of ice formation in the fuel.
(d) Be sure that all containers are thoroughly clean and free
from rust before storing fuel in them. If possible, after filling or mov-
ing a container, allow the fuel to settle 24 hours before filling vehicle
tank from it. Keep all closures of containers tight to prevent snow,
ice, dirt, and other foreign matter from entering.
(e) Wipe all snow or ice from dispensing equipment and from
around fuel tank filler cap before removing cap to refuel vehicles.
c. Care of Engine When Not Running. For long periods of
shut-down, as in bivouac, park vehicle in as sheltered a place as
possible. For short shut-down periods, the vehicle should be parked
in a sheltered spot out of the wind if possible. If no shelter is avail-
BOTTOM
TOP
Figure 45—Positions af Radiator Shroud

RA PD 332916
•70•
TM 9-801
29-30
able, it will be helpful to park so that the vehicle does not face into
the wind. For a shut-down period up to three hours, it will be unnec-
essary to use shrouds and heaters.
(1) OPERATION OF RADIATOR SHROUD. Purpose of radiator
shroud is to protect engine compartment from weather when vehicle
is not operating, to warm engine quickly, and to keep engine and
battery temperatures normal while operating in low temperatures.
During engine operation, the driver should note temperature gage
and if temperature drops below normal, shroud should be adjusted
accordingly. Shrould can be adjusted either from top or bottom as
shown in figure 45, and tied in position with rawhide straps which
are furnished with shroud.
d. Starting Instructions. Pull choke out three-quarters to full.
Do not manipulate choke until engine is running, and then with cau-
tion. Prime engine as required. Disengage clutch and operate crank-
ing motor. Continue priming as required until engine starts and car-
bureter cuts in. After engine has started, it must be allowed to idle
until cooling system temperature begins to rise. Check battery warm-
ing coil for leaks (if vehicle is equipped with built-in heater). Regu-
late engine temperature by use of shutters on radiators.
30. COLD WEATHER LUBRICATION.
a. Transmission, Transfer Case, and Differentials.
(1) SAE 80 universal gear lubricant, where prescribed, is suit-
able for use at temperatures as low as -20° F. If consistent tempera-
ture .below 0° F is anticipated, drain the gear cases while warm and
refill with grade 75 universal gear lubricant which is suitable for
operation at all temperatures below +32° F. If grade 75 universal
gear lubricant is not available, SAE 80 universal gear lubricant,
diluted with the fuel used in the engine in the proportion of one
part fuel to six parts SAE 80 universal gear lubricant, shall be used.
Make-up oil will be diluted in the same proportion before it is added
to gear cases.
(2) After engine has been warmed up, engage clutch and main-
tain engine speed at fast idle for five minutes until gears can be
engaged. Shift transmission into low (first) gear, and drive vehicle
for 100 yards, being careful not to stall engine. This will heat gear
lubricants to the point where normal operation can be expected.

b. Other Lubrication Points.
(1) REAR SPRING SEAT BEARINGS. If vehicle has been operated
at least 1,000 miles, using No. 0 general purpose grease for lubrica-
tion, no special precautions are necessary for the rear spring seat
(bogie) bearings. If quantities of No. 1 general purpose grease are
in these bearings, it will be necessary to disassemble and wash in
dry-cleaning solvent, dry, and then relubricate with No. 0 general
purpose grease for satisfactory operation.
(2) WHEEL BEARINGS. Wheel bearings and grease cups using
No. 2 general purpose grease shall be lubricated with the same lubri-
cant at all times. If repacking must be performed at sufficiently low
temperature that thorough nand-packing cannot be accomplished,
•71•
TM 9-801
30
No. 0 general purpose grease may be used until temperature returns
to above 0° F.
(3) CHASSIS POINTS. Other chassis points must be lubricated
with No. 0 general purpose grease.
(4) HYDROVAC CYLINDERS. Lubricate with shock absorber fluid,
light, at all temperatures.
(5) STEERING GEAR HOUSING. Drain, if possible, or use suction
gun to remove as much lubricant as possible. Refill with grade 75
universal gear lubricant, or, if not available, with SAE 80 universal
gear lubricant diluted with fuel used in the engine in the proportion
of one part fuel to six parts SAE 80 universal gear lubricant. Make-
up oil will be diluted in the same proportion before it is added to
the housing.
(6) OILCAN POINTS. For oilcan points where engine oil is pre-
scribed for above 0° F, use light preservative lubricating oil.
c. Preparation of Engines Not Equipped with Cold Weather
Kits.
(1) KEEPING CRANKCASE OIL FLUID. Several methods for
keeping crankcase oil sufficiently fluid for proper lubrication are
listed below. Preference should be given to the different methods in
the order listed, according to the facilities available.
(a) Keep the vehicle in a heated enclosure when it is not being
operated.
(b) When the engine is stopped, drain the crankcase oil while
it is still hot and store in a warm place until the vehicle is to be oper-
ated again. If warm storage is not available, heat the oil before re-
installing. NOTE: Do not get the oil too hot; heat only to the point
where the bare hand can be inserted without burning. Tag the ve-
hicle in a conspicuous place in the cab to warn personnel that the
crankcase is empty.
(c) Dilute the crankcase oil. Crankcase oils may be diluted with
gasoline or Diesel fuel according to their availability, with preference
given to gasoline. One of the two following procedures will be used
to provide the engine with properly diluted engine oil for cold
starting.
(2) WHEN GASOLINE is AVAILABLE FOR DILUENT.

(a) Fill engine crankcase to the "FULL" mark with the grade
of engine oil prescribed for use at temperatures from 32° F to 0° F.
Add ll/z quarts of gasoline for each 5 quarts of crankcase oil ca-
pacity. EXAMPLE: Crankcase with capacity of 10 quarts will
require 3 quarts of gasoline as an oil diluent.
(b) Run the engine 5 to 10 minutes to mix the lubricant and
diluent thoroughly.
(c) Stop the engine and note that the level of the diluted oil is
above the normal "FULL" mark on the oil gage. This level should
be marked on the gage for future reference.
(d) The presence of a large percentage of light diluent will in-
crease oil consumption and, for that reason, the oil level should be
checked frequently. Use the grade of engine oil prescribed for use
•72'
TM 9-801
30-31
between 32° F to 0° F to maintain the oil level to dip stick "FULL"
mark during operation.
(e) If the vehicle is operated four hours or more at operating
temperature, redilution will be necessary if it is anticipated that the
vehicle will be left standing unprotected for five hours or more. This
can be accomplished by adding engine oil prescribed for use between
32° F to 0° F to the dip stick "FULL" mark; then adding gasoline
to the dilution mark on the gage described in step (c) above.
(3) If Diesel fuel is used as diluent, drain the crankcase while
the engine is still warm and refill, using engine oil prescribed for
temperatures between 32° F to 0° F diluted with grade X Diesel
fuel oil in the proportion of 1 Vi quarts of Diesel fuel to five quarts
of engine oil. The presence of a large percentage of diluent will in-
crease oil consumption and, therefore, the oil level will be checked
frequently during operation and maintained with the diluted oil to
dip stick "FULL" mark.
(4) If the vehicle is to be kept outdoors, and if the crankcase
cannot be drained, cover the engine with a tarpaulin. About three
hours before the engine is to be started, place fire pots under the
tarpaulin. A Vag Prag, Primus-type, or other type blowtorch and
ordinary kerosene lanterns may be used. With due consideration for
the fire hazard involved, the flame may be applied directly to the
oil pan.
31. PROTECTION OF COOLING SYSTEM AND PREPARA-
TION OF VEHICLE FOR COLD WEATHER OPERATION.
a. Protection of Cooling System.
(1) Cooling system will be protected with antifreeze compound
for operation below +32° F. The following instructions applv. to use
of new antifreeze compound. For use of reclaimed antifreeze solu-
tions, refer to Ordnance Field Service Technical Bulletin 700-20,
dated 13 October 1942.
(2) Before adding antifreeze compound, it is necessary that the
cooling system be clean and completely free from rust. If the cool-
ing system has been cleaned recently, it may be necessary only to
drain, refill with clean water, and again drain. Otherwise, the system
will be cleaned with cleaning compound.

(3) Heaters, water cooled compressors, and other units in the

cooling system must be cleaned in addition to the radiator and engine
water jacket.
(4) All hoses must be inspected and replaced if deteriorated
Hose clamps, plugs, and petcocks must be inspected and tightened
if necessary. Radiator leaks must be repaired before adding anti-
freeze compound. Exhaust gas or air leakage into the cooling system
must be corrected.
(5) When the cooling system is clean and tight, add antifreeze
compound, using the proportion of antifreeze compound to the cool-
ing system capacity indicated below. The system should be protected
to at least 10° F below the lowest expected temperature to be ex-
perienced during the winter season.
•73•
TM 9-801
31
Atmaspheric Quantity of
Temperature Ethylene Quantity of
Degrees Fahr. Glycol (Of) Water (Qt)
+20 3V4 153/4
+ 10 43/4 14V4
0 6l/z 12 V2
- 5 7 12
-10 7V2 HVa
-15 8 11
-20 8% 10 %
-30 9V4 Q3/4
-40 10 9
-50 103/4
-60 Iiy2
(6) After adding antifreeze compound, fill with water to slightly
below the filler neck; then start and warm the engine to normal
operating temperature.
(7) The engine should then be stopped and the solution checked
with a hydrometer, adding antifreeze compound if required.
(8) In service, the coolant is to be inspected weekly for strength
and color. Rusty solution should be drained, the cooling system thor-
oughly cleaned, and new solution of the required strength added.
(9) CAUTIONS:
(a) Antifreeze compound is the only antifreeze authorized for
Ordnance material.
(b) It is essential that antifreeze solutions be kept clean. Use
only containers and water that are free from dirt, rust, and oil.
(c) Use an accurate hydrometer. To test a hydrometer, use one
part antifreeze compound to two parts water. This solution should
produce a hydrometer reading of 0° F.
(d) Do not spill antifreeze compound on painted surfaces.
b. Electrical Systems.
( 1 ) GENERATOR AND CRANKING MOTOR. Check the brushes
commutators, and bearings. See that the commutators are clean. The
large surges of current which occur when starting a cold engine re-
quire good contact between brushes and commutators.

(2) WIRING. Check, clean, and tighten all connections, espe-

cially the battery terminal. Care should be taken that no short cir-
cuits are present
(3) COIL. Check coil for proper functioning.
(4) DISTRIBUTOR. Clean thoroughly, and clean or replace points.
Check the points frequently. In cold weather, slightly pitted points
may prevent engine from starting.
(5) SPARK PLUGS. Clean and adjust or replace if necessary. If it
is difficult to make the engine fire, reduce the gap 0.005 inch less
than normally used (par. 89). This will make ignition effective at
the reduced voltages likely to prevail.
(6) TIMING. Check carefully. Care should be taken that the
spark is not unduly advanced or retarded.
( 7 ) BATTERIES.
.74.
TM 9-801
31
(a) The efficiency of batteries decreases sharply with decreas-
ing temperatures, and becomes practically nil at —40° F. Do not try
to start the engine with the battery when it has been chilled to tem-
perature below —30° F until battery has been heated, unless a warm
slave battery is available. See that the battery is always fully
charged, with the hydrometer reading between 1.275 and 1.300. A
fully charged battery will not freeze at temperatures likely to be
encountered even in arctic climates, but a fully discharged battery
will freeze and rupture at +5° F.
Specific Gravity
Taken at Freezing Temperature
60 Degrees Fahr. Degrees fahr.
1.100 +18
1.120 +14
1.140 + 8
1.160 + 2
1.180 - 6
1.200 -17
1.220 -31
1.240 -51
1.260 -75
1.280 -92
1.300 -95
(b) Do not add water to a battery when it has been exposed to
subzero temperatures unless the battery is to be charged immedi-
ately. If water is added and the battery not put on charge, the layer
of water will stay at the top and freeze before it has a chance to mix
with the acid.
(c) Testing Specific Gravity. Determination of specific gravity
is accomplished by the use of a commercial hydrometer supplied
for this purpose. These are usually calibrated to read accurately only
when electrolyte is at certain specified temperature. Standards com-
monly used are 60° and 80° F. It is necessary to make corrections
when taking readings at temperatures other than specified standard
of hydrometer used. For every 10° the temperature is above the
hydrometer standard, 0.004 must be added to the specified gravity

reading. For every 10° the temperature is below the standard, 0.004
must be subtracted from the reading. Specific gravity readings with-
out corrections for temperature are meaningless.
(8) LIGHTS. Inspect the lights carefully. Check for short cir-
cuits and presence of moisture around sockets.
(9) Before every start, see that the spark plugs, wiring, or other
electrical equipment is free from ice.
c. Engines.
(1) Be sure that no heavy grease or dirt has been left on the
cranking motor throwout mechanism. Heavy grease or dirt may keep
the gears from being meshed or cause them to remain in mesh after
the engine starts running. The latter will ruin the cranking motor and
necessitate repairs.
•75•
TM 9-801
31-32
(2) A full choke is necessary to secure the rich air-fuel mixture
required for cold weather starting. Check the butterfly valve to see
that it closes all the way, and otherwise functions properly.
(3) Carbureters which give no appreciable trouble at normal
temperatures may no.t operate satisfactorily at low temperatures. A
fuel pump which will deliver enough gasoline at normal starting
speeds of 500 revolutions per minute may have leaky valves or a
defective diaphragm which will prevent it from delivering the
amount of fuel required to start the engine at low temperatures when
turning speeds are reduced to 30 to 60 revolutions per minute.
Faulty fuel pumps or carbureters should be corrected or replaced.
(4) AIR CLEANERS. At temperatures between 0°F and —40°F,
remove air cleaner, disassemble, wash all parts in dry-cleaning sol-
vent, dry thoroughly, and reassemble. Refill to correct level with
OIL, hydraulic or FLUID, shock absorber, light. Check reservoir
daily and fill to correct level if necessary. Every 1,000 miles, dis-
assemble, wash, dry, reassemble, and refill with above oil. This ap-
plies also to crankcase breather air cleaner. Below —40° F, carbu-
reter and crankcase air cleaner must be disassembled, washed, re-
assembled, and replaced dry.
d. Fuel System. Remove and clean strainer daily. Also drain
fuel tank sump daily to remove water and dirt.
e. Chassis.
(1) Brake bands, particularly on new vehicles, have a tendency
to bind when they are very cold. Always have a blowtorch handy to
warm up these parts if they bind when attempting to move the vehi-
cle. Parking the vehicle with the brake released will eliminate most of
the binding. Precaution must be taken, under these circumstances,
to block the wheels or otherwise prevent movement of the vehicle.
(2) Inspect the vehicle frequently. Shock resistance of metals,
or resistance against breaking, is greatly reduced at extremely low
temperatures. Operation of vehicles on hard, frozen ground causes
strain and jolting which will result in screws breaking or nuts jarring
loose. Cables should operate satisfactorily at all temperatures pro-
viding they are coated with No. 0 general purpose grease and there
is no excess grease in the housing.

32. HOT WEATHER OPERATION.

a. Operation of these vehicles in high temperatures requires
regular maintenance of cooling units, lubrication filtering devices,
and air cleaners. In extremely high temperatures, water saving de-
vices such as surge or overflow tanks should be employed.
b. Cooling System Maintenance.
(1) COOLING LIQUID. Formation of scale and rust in cooling
system occurs more often during operation in extremely high tem-
peratures; therefore, rust preventives should always be added to the
cooling liquids (par. 107). Use only clean water. Avoid the use of
water that contains alkali or other substances which may cause
scale and rust formation.
•76•
TM 9-801
32
(2) CLEANING COOLING SYSTEM. Cooling system should be
thoroughly cleaned and flushed at frequent intervals when operating
in extremely high temperatures.
,(3) FAN BELT AND WATER PUMP. Fan belt should be inspected
at regular intervals and adjusted if necessary (par. 108). Water
pump must be kept in good operating condition.
(4) THERMOSTAT. Check operation of thermostat (par. 110).
Thermostat must open at calibrated temperature to prevent over-
heating of cooling liquid.
(5) HOSE CONNECTIONS. Check connections frequently for
leaks.
c. Oil Filters. Oil filter elements must be checked and replaced
at more frequent intervals if vehicle is operating in hot, sandy
regions. Crankcase air vent cleaner must be serviced at frequent in-
tervals.
d. Air Cleaners. If vehicle is operating extensively in sandy or
dusty regions, carbureter air cleaner should be cleaned daily. If ve-
hicle operates in dust storm areas, cleaner should be cleaned imme-
diately after such storms occur.
e. Battery.
(1) WATER LEVEL. In torrid zones, cell water level should be
checked daily and replenished if necessary with pure distilled water.
If this is not available, any water fit to drink may be used. However,
continuous use of water with high mineral content will eventually
cause damage to battery and should be avoided.
(2) SPECIFIC GRAVITY. Batteries operating in torrid climates
should have a weaker electrolyte than for temperate climates. In-
stead of 1.300 gravity, the electrolyte should be adjusted to around
1.210 to 1.230 for a fully charged battery. This will prolong the life
of the negative plates and separators. Under this condition, battery
should be recharged at about 1.160. Where freezing conditions do not
prevail, there is no danger with gravities from 1.230 to 1.075.
(3) SELF-DISCHARGE. A battery will "self-discharge" at a greater
rate at high temperatures if standing for long periods. This must be
taken into consideration when operating in torrid zones. If necessary
to park for several days, battery should be removed and stored in a

cool place.
f. Operating Vehicle. In extremely high temperatures, avoid
the continuous use of low gear ratios whenever possible. Frequent
inspection and servicing of air cleaners, fuel filter, and oil filter should
be made during operation in dusty areas. Watch the temperature and
oil gages constantly. Check and replenish oil and water frequently.
g. Side Panels. Engine side panels must not be removed to
lower cab temperature or for any other reason. The engine hood side
panels form an air tunnel which directs air onto and past engine for
best cooling effect. After hood side panels are removed, effectiveness
of the air tunnel is lowered, and the air drawn through radiator by
the fan, blows out of engine compartment without being directed
•77•
TM 9-801
32-34
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
over entire engine. The cooling efficiency is thus decreased and en-
gine temperature raised. Hood side panels must not be removed ex-
cept for access to engine for servicing or repairs.
h. Manifold Heat Control. At temperatures above 60°F, place
manifold heat control into "OFF" position.
33. OPERATION ON STEEP GRADES.
a. Going Up Grades. When ascending steep grades, always shift
into lower transmission speeds before vehicle begins to labor. This
can be accomplished most successfully when vehicle still has suffi-
cient momentum to permit changing gears without bringing vehicle
to a stop.
(1) CAUTION: When shifting to a lower gear at any rate of ve-
hicle speed, make sure that engine speed is "synchronized" with ve-
hicle speed before clutch is engaged. If clutch is engaged when en-
gine is operating at lower than relative vehicle speed, the drive line
may be damaged.
b. Going Down Grades. The importance of restraining speed of
vehicle and speed of engine while descending grades cannot be over-
emphasized. Refer to the maximum permissible road speed plate.
The plate clearly states maximum speed at which truck may be
safely operated in various gear ratios of transmission and ranges of
transfer case. In general, it is advisable to use the same transmission
speed going down hill as would be required to climb the same hill.
Hold the vehicle speed not to exceed maximum shown on plate. In-
structions as follows should be observed when descending grades.
(1) Keep vehicle under control at all times.
(2) It is desirable to reduce speed of vehicle with the brakes
several times during the descent of a hill.
(3) Remember that possibility of overspeeding is greater when
truck is loaded, therefore more caution is required.
(4) Do not use a lower gear ratio than would be required to
ascend the same hill.
( 5 ) Do not allow the vehicle to exceed the maximum permissible
speed for the particular gear ratio selected.
(6) Disengage front axle before using the transmission as a
brake when going down a steep hill, especially before shifting to a

lower gear.
34. OPERATION ON SAND OR SOFT TERRAIN.
a. Mud. Always use tire chains and use all driving axles at ratio
low enough to steadily pull vehicle out. Do not try the impossible. If
stuck, winch out if vehicle is equipped with winch, or wait until
assistance arrives.
b. Sand. Operation in sand requires a technique different than
that used when operating in mud. The track must be "layed," not
dug. Do not permit wheels to spin. If motor labors, depress clutch
•78•
TM 9-801
34-35
pedal immediately. Reverse and then go forward again. It may be
necessary to repeat this procedure several times. If stuck in the sand,
winch out. Constant spinning of the wheels will only dig in deeper.
35. PREVENTION OF DAMAGE BY SUBMERSION.
a. General. If vehicle is driven through deep water for any ap-
preciable length of time or completely submerged in water, pre-
cautions must be taken to avoid serious damage to the engine, clutch,
transmission, transfer case, axles, universal joints, winch, steering
gear, battery, fuel tank, brakes, and wheel bearings.
b. If vehicle is not completely submerged but operates in fairly
deep water for any length of time, particular attention must be given
to the wheel bearings, brake mechanism, and axle differentials.
(1) WHEEL BEARINGS. Remove all wheel bearings and clean and
repack with lubricant (par. 200).
(2) BRAKE MECHANISM. Brake mechanism should be thor-
oughly examined after submersion in water and all parts cleaned and
lining replaced if necessary.
(3) DIFFERENTIALS. If axle differentials have been operated
under water for any length of time, drain and flush differentials and
refill with correct lubricant.
c. If vehicle operates in deep water which may partially sub-
merge engine, particular attention must be given to units which have
been submerged, such as brake, master cylinder, cranking motor,
battery, distributor, transmission, transfer case, and winch. If clutch
has been submerged, it is necessary that it be completely disassem-
bled and cleaned thoroughly. Do not attempt to flush it.
(1) MASTER CYLINDER. Drain and flush brake system com-
pletely with alcohol, then refill with fresh brake fluid.
(2) ELECTRICAL. If cranking motor, generator, or distributor
have been submerged, remove the units, clean thoroughly, wipe dry,
and reinstall if tests prove that the units are functioning. If battery
is submerged, check the electrolyte solution. If solution is dirty, or
abnormally high, replace the battery. Check the specific gravity and
if necessary, recharge or replace.
(3) TRANSMISSION, ETC. Drain lubricant, flush, and refill.
d. If vehicle has been completely submerged, each unit which

has been submerged must be completely dismounted, cleaned, and

lubricated. If it is known that water or dirt has entered engine, the
crankcase should be drained, and engine thoroughly flushed. If en-
gine has been submerged for any length of time, engine should be
completely overhauled.
e. If vehicle is subjected to salt water, or operates near salt
water, keep all exposed metal surfaces painted or thoroughly oiled.
Precautions must be taken to seal the regulator and other electrical
switch devices to prevent excessive corrosion. Salt water or salt air
will attack all metals and will eventually corrode such parts, pre-
venting operation.
.79.
TM 9-801
36-37
PART THREE—MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
Section VIII
LUBRICATION
36. LUBRICATION ORDER.
a. War Department Lubrication Order No. 504 (figs. 46 and 47)
prescribes lubrication maintenance for truck, 2Vi-ton, 6x6 GMC
CCKW-352 and 353.
b. A Lubrication Order is placed on or is issued with each ve-
hicle and is to be carried with it at all times. In the event the vehicle
is received without an Order the using arm shall immediately requi-
sition a replacement from the Commanding Officer, Fort Wayne Ord-
nance Depot, Detroit 32, Michigan.
c. Lubrication instructions on the Order are binding on all
echelons of maintenance and there shall be no deviations from these
instructions.
d. Service intervals specified on the Order are for normal op-
erating conditions. Reduce these intervals under extreme conditions
such as excessively high or low temperatures, prolonged periods of
high speed, continued operation in sand or dust, immersion in water,
or exposure to moisture, any one of which may quickly destroy the
protective qualities of the lubricant and require servicing in order to
prevent malfunctioning or damage to the materiel.
e. Lubricants are prescribed in the "Key" in accordance with
three temperature ranges; above +32°F, + 32°F to 0°F, and be-
low 0°F. Determine the time to change grades of lubricants by main-
taining a close check on operations of the vehicle during the approach
to change-over periods. Be particularly observant when starting the
engine. Sluggish starting is an indication of thickened lubricants and
the signal to change to grades prescribed for the next lower tempera-
ture range. Ordinarily it will be necessary to change grades of lubri-
cants only when air temperatures are consistently in the next higher
or lower range, unless malfunctioning occurs sooner due to lubricants
being too thin or too heavy.
37. DETAILED LUBRICATION INSTRUCTIONS.
a. Lubrication Equipment.
(1) Each piece of materiel is supplied with lubrication equip-
ment adequate to maintain the materiel. Be sure to clean this equip-

ment both before and after use. Operate lubricating guns carefully
and in such a manner as to insure a proper distribution of the lubri-
cant. If lubrication fitting valves stick and prevent the entrance of
lubricant, remove the fitting and determine cause. Replace broken
or damaged lubricators. If lubricator cannot be replaced immediate-
ly, cover hole as a temporary expedient with tape to prevent the
entrance of dirt. If oil lines become clogged, disassemble the line
and remove the obstruction.
(2) Wipe lubricators and surrounding surface clean before ap-
plying lubricant. Where relief valves are provided, apply new lubri-
•80•
TM 9-801
37
LUBRICATION
cant until the old lubricant is forced from the vent. Exceptions are
specified in notes or on the Lubrication Order. Always wipe clean
metal surfaces on which a film of lubricant must be maintained by
manual application, before the film is renewed.
b. Points of Application.
(1) Lubrication fittings, grease cups, oilers, and oil holes are
readily located by reference to the Lubrication Order. Wipe clean
such lubricators and the surrounding surface before lubricant is
applied.
(2) Where relief valves are provided, apply new lubricant until
the old lubricant is forced from the vent.
c. Cleaning. Use dry-cleaning solvent, or Diesel fuel oil, to clean
or wash all parts. Use of gasoline for this purpose is prohibited. After
washing, dry all parts thoroughly before applying lubricant
d. Lubrication Notes on Individual Units and Parts. The fol-
lowing instructions supplement and repeat for clarity those notes on
Lubrication Order which pertain to lubrication and service of indi-
vidual units and parts.
(1) AIR CLEANERS (OiL BATH TYPE). Daily, check level and if
necessary fill to level mark. Every 1,000 miles remove element and
reservoir and wash all parts. Refill reservoir to level mark with used
crankcase oil or (OE) engine oil, seasonal grade; except clamp
mounted carbureter air cleaner which uses SAE 50 above +32° F
or SAE 30 between +32°F and 0°F. From 0°F to -40°F, use (SA)
shock absorber fluid, light. Below — 40 °F, wash and operate dry.
(Element or mesh type)—Every 1,000 miles, remove element, wash,
dry and reoil with used crankcase oil or (OE) engine oil, seasonal
grade. From 0°F to -40°F, use (SA) shock absorber fluid, light.
Below —40°F, remove oil and operate dry. (Governor air cleaner)—
Every 6,000 miles remove governor air cleaner screen and felt (par.
96). Clean, dry and reoil felt with a few drops of (OE) engine oil,
SAE 10. Reinstall felt and screen (par. 96).
(2) BREATHERS OR VENTS. Weekly clean dirt from breathers or
vents at transfer case and axle differentials. Every 6,000 miles re-
move breathers and clean in dry-cleaning solvent.

(3) CRANKCASE. Daily, check level and refill to "FULL" mark

with (OE) engine oil, SAE 30 above +32°F, or SAE 10 from +32°
to 0°F. Below 0°F, refer to OFSB 6-11. Every 1,000 miles, remove
drain plug from bottom of oil pan and completely drain case. Drain
only when engine is hot . After thoroughly draining, replace drain
plug and refill crankcase to "FULL" mark on gage with correct lubri-
cant to meet temperature requirements. Run engine a few minutes,
recheck level, and add oil if required. Be sure pressure gage indicates
oil is circulating. Two piece oil pan has screen attached to drain
plug. When drain plug is removed, clean plug and screen before
replacing. Oil pan capacity, under various conditions is as follows:
Oil Capacity Filler Element
71/2 qt Not drained Not removed
9 qt Drained Not removed
10 qt Drained Removed
736603 O - 47 - 6 '81'
37
•82*
TM 9-801

37
•83-
TM 9-801
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LUBRICATION
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TM 9-801
'EMPERAT
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
TM 9-801
37
(4) GEAR CASES. Transmission, differentials, transfer case, and
winch worm housing. Weekly, check level with truck on even ground,
and if necessary, add lubricant to within Va inch of plug level when
cold, or to plug level when hot, except winch worm housing, which
must be filled to plug level at all times. Fill front and rear banjo
type axle differentials to level of lower plug hole. If removed, refill
transfer case declutching unit, used with split type axle, when rein-
stalled, through plug hole with universal gear lubricant, SAE 90
above +32°F to 0°F, SAE 80° from +32° to 0°F, or Grade 75
below 0°F. Clean magnetic drain plug in transfer case of models
equipped with banjo axles before replacing. (Power Take-off)—
Vehicles equipped with a winch or hoist are also equipped with a
power take-off, mounted at left side of transmission. Some of these
power take-offs are fitted with a drain plug, which should be removed
whenever transmission is drained. Some models do not have drain
plug in power take-off and cannot be drained, except at transmission.
No filler plug is provided in power take-off, as it is lubricated by the
lubricant in the transmission.
(5) DISTRIBUTOR. Every 1,000 miles, lubricate distributor shaft
by turning down cup one full turn, refill as required with (WB)
general purpose grease No. 2. Every 6,000 miles wipe the distributor
breaker cam lightly with (CG) general purpose grease, seasonal
grade. Also lubricate the breaker arm pivot with one or two drops—
and wick under rotor with one or two drops of (OE) engine oil,
seasonal grade or (PS) preservative lubricating oil, special, below
0°F.
(6) OIL FILTER Every 1,000 miles, when engine is drained re-
move drain plug from oil filter to drain oil and sediment in filter.
Every 6,000 miles, remove filter element (par. 81). Clean inside of
shell with clean rag and install new element (par. 81). Run engine
a few minutes and check oil level. Add oil to bring crankcase oil
level up to "FULL" mark on gage.
(7) CLUTCH PILOT BEARING. Whenever clutch or engine is re-
moved, clean and repack clutch pilot bearing with (WB) general
purpose grease, No. 2. After cleaning parts, fill cavity in crankshaft
behind clutch pilot bearing. Also fill clutch release bearing inside
recess and coat fork groove; coat shaft spline, release fork socket,
and stud. CAUTION: Do not wash clutch release bearing.
(8) HYDRAULIC CYLINDER. Two types of hoist equipment (Heil
and Gar Wood) have been used on these vehicles and require differ-
ent filling and draining instructions. (Heil). Every two weeks, raise
body to Vi its maximum height. Place safety block under body to
prevent accidental dropping. Remove filler and vent plugs separately.
With the pump control lever in the "RAISE" position, operate the
pump slowly, while pouring (OE) engine oil, seasonal grade, through
•86•
TM 9-801
37
LUBRICATION
filler plug opening until body is raised to its maximum height. Add
about Va pint more oil, then lower body slowly, with pump running.
Slowly raise and lower the body several times to expel all air and
any excess oil. With body all the way up, install filler and vent plugs.
Every 6 months raise body to its maximum height, and block in place
to prevent accidental dropping. Remove plug at bottom of pump
to drain oil from hydraulic cylinder. During draining, pump control
lever should be in "LOWER" position. Install drain plug and perform
filling operation. (Gar Wood). Every two weeks, raise body to its
maximum height. Place safety block under body to prevent acci-
dental dropping. Remove filler plug at side of cylinder. Fill to over-
flowing with (OE) engine oil, seasonal grade. Install plug tightly.
Every 6 months raise body to its maximum height and block in place
to prevent accidental dropping. Remove plate at bottom of pump
to drain oil from hydraulic cylinder. During draining, pump control
lever should be in "LOWER" position. Install plate and perform
filling operation while pump is being operated, with control lever in
"RAISE" position.
(9) HYDROVAC CYLINDER. Lubricate every 6,000 miles with
(SA) shock absorber fluid, light. Remove pipe plug at center of rear
shell, also plug from inside elbow at center plate. Apply Vi oz of
lubricant through each plug opening. Replace plugs. To insure
proper spread of lubricant in cylinder, start engine and make 3 or 4
severe brake applications. Early vehicles are equipped with vacuum
cylinder at left side of vehicle. Every 6,000 miles, remove plug in
rear of cylinder and apply 1 oz (SA) shock absorber fluid through
plug opening. Replace plug. Every 1,000 miles lubricate idler lever,
ahead of vacuum cylinder, with (CG) general purpose grease, sea-
sonal grade.
(10) REAR SPRING SEAT BEARINGS. Every 6,000 miles, remove
bearing cap. Remove plug, insert fitting and lubricate with (CG)
general purpose grease, seasonal grade, until all old grease is forced
out of bearing. Replace plug and bearing cap. Some models are
lubricated through fitting under spring seat.
(11) UNIVERSAL JOINTS AND SLIP JOINTS. (Truck)—Use (CG)
general purpose grease, seasonal grade. Apply grease to universal

joint until it overflows at the relief valve, and to the slip joint until
lubricant is forced from the vent at the universal joint end of the
spline. (Winch and Dump Hoist)—Universal and slip joints are not
equipped with vents. Apply lubricant until it appears around journal
and splines. Lubricate hoist support bearings until lubricant appears
between bearing and shaft.
(12) UNIVERSAL JOINTS AND STEERING KNUCKLE BEARINGS.
Every 1,000 miles lubricate with vehicle on level ground, with (CG)
general purpose grease, seasonal grade. If split type axle is equipped
•87•
TM 9-801
37
TRUCK, 2V,-TON, 6x6
with plug in hub driving flange, remove plug at steering knuckle
housing. Lubricate first through fitting in upper steering knuckle
bearing, and then through fitting inserted in hub driving flange until
lubricant is visible at plug hole. Replace plugs. To lubricate split
type axle without plug in hub driving flange, remove plug and lubri-
cate through fitting on upper steering knuckle until lubricant is visible
at plug opening. On banjo type axles, where two plugs are provided,
one on top of joint, the other one at front of steering knuckle support,
use only plug in steering knuckle support and lubricate through
fitting underneath joint until lubricant is visible at plug opening.
Every 6,000 miles, remove universal joints, (par. 167). Wash and
repack with (CG) general purpose grease, seasonal grade. Reinstall
(par. 167).
(13) WINCH DRIVE SHAFT SHEAR PIN. Every 1,000 miles lubri-
cate both ends of pin, also between yoke and worm shaft, with (OE)
engine oil, seasonal grade. Every 6,000 miles, disconnect universal
joint from winch worm shaft (par. 240). Clean shaft shear pin and
inside of yoke. Coat inside of yoke and winch worm shaft with (CG)
general purpose grease, seasonal grade. Install universal joint to
worm shaft (par. 240).
(14) WINCH CABLE. After each use, clean and oil with used
crankcase oil or (OE) engine oil, seasonal grade. Weekly, if cable
has not been used, coat outer coils. Monthly, unwind entire cable,
clean and oil.
(15) WHEEL BEARINGS. Every 6,000 miles remove bearing
cone assemblies from hub (pars. 201 and 202). Wash bearings,
cones, spindle, and inside of hub and dry thoroughly. Do not use
compressed air. Inspect bearing races and replace if damaged. Wet
the spindle and inside of hub with general purpose grease No. 2 to
a maximum thickness of 1/16 inch only, to retard rust. Lubricate
bearings with general purpose grease No. 2 with a packer, or by
hand, kneading lubricant into all spaces in the bearing. Use extreme
care to protect the bearings from dirt, and immediately reassemble
and replace wheel. Do not fill hub. The lubricant in the bearing is
sufficient to provide lubrication until the next service period. Any
excess might result in leakage into the drum. Adjust bearings in

accordance with instructions in paragraph 199.

(16) PILLOW BLOCK. Lubricate every 1,000 miles using (CG)
general purpose grease, seasonal grade, until grease flows from
breather at top of housing. When housing is equipped with a plug at
side, remove and clean housing and bearings (par. 177). Reassemble
and adjust bearings (par. 177). Replace pipe plug at side of housing
with 90° fitting (par. 177).
(17) STEERING GEAR. Every 1,000 miles remove filler plug and
check level of lubricant. Add (GO) universal gear lubricant, seasonal
grade, until lubricant is to level of filler plug hole. Some models are
equipped with a drain plug, which should be removed every 6,000
•88*
TM 9-801
37
LUBRICATION
miles. Drain all old lubricant, install drain plug, and refill through
filler plug hole.
(18) SHOCK ABSORBER. Every 6,000 miles remove plug and
check level of fluid. If fluid is not up to plug level, disconnect link
between arm and axle (par. 213). Fill to plug level with (SA) shock
absorber fluid, light. Pump arm slowly to expel air from shock
absorber. Repeat filling and pumping operations until all air is re-
moved and fluid is at filler hole level. Install filler plug. Reconnect
link between arm and axle (par. 213).
(19) BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER. Every 1,000 miles remove plug
and check level of fluid. If fluid is not up to within i/2 inch of filler
hole, add sufficient (HB) hydraulic brake fluid, to bring fluid up
to this level. Install filler plug. When it is evident that air is present
in hydraulic system bleed entire system (par. 180).
(20) OIL CAN POINTS. Every 1,000 miles, lubricate pintle hook,
hand brake linkage, brake pedal pull rod clevis pins, clutch pedal
linkage; transfer case control lever bushings and clutch and brake
pedal shaft if not equipped with fittings, with (OE) engine oil, sea-
sonal grade, or (PS) preservative lubrication oil, special, below 0°F.
(Water Tank)—Every 1,000 miles, lubricate control linkage on
emergency valve and clevises, etc. with (OE) engine oil, seasonal
grade or (PS) preservative lubricating oil, special, below 0° F. (Gas
Tank)—Every 1,000 miles, lubricate selector operating valve
handles and linkage, manhole cover hinges, etc., with (OE) engine
oil, seasonal grade, or (PS) preservative lubricating oil, special,
below 0°F.
(21) POINTS REQUIRING No LUBRICATION SERVICE. Fan, water
pump, clutch release bearing, generator (some models), springs.
(22) DISASSEMBLED PERIODICALLY BY ORDNANCE MAINTE-
NANCE PERSONNEL ONLY.
(a) Steering Column Upper Bearing. Whenever steering column
is removed for inspection or repair, clean and repack ball bearing
with (WB) general purpose grease No. 2.
(b) Steering Column Horn Contacts. Whenever steering column
is removed for inspection or repair, coat horn button contact washer
lightly with (CG) general purpose grease, seasonal grade, to prevent

corrosion.
(c) Engine Breather. Every 6,000 miles or more often under
severe operating conditions, remove tube between valve cover and
intake manifold, also valve attached to manifold. Thoroughly clean
tube and valve and reassemble.
e. Reports and Records.
(1) Report unsatisfactory performance of materiel to the Ord-
nance Officer responsible for maintenance.
(2) A record of lubrication may be maintained in the Duty
Roster (W.D., A.G.O. Form No. 6).
•89•
TM 9-801
37
TRUCK, 21/2"TON, 6x6
CRANKCASE-OE
Check level daily. Remove level indicator and clean with
wiping cloth. Install and again remove. Oil level should be
up to "Full" mark. Remove filler cap and fill or replenish
through filler pipe. Install indicator and filler cap
DRAINING CRANKCASE
Drain plug assembly. Drain when lubricant is warm, prefer-
ably immediately after operation. Remove drain plug and
screen assembly. Clean in dry-cleaning solvent. Dry and
reinstall plug assembly. Tighten plug securely.
jDRAIN PLUG
OIL FILTER—OE
To drain, remove plug. To replace element, remove drain
plug, filter caver and element. Install new military standard
element, caver and drain plug. Run engine a few minutes
and refill crankcase to "Full" mark bn level indicator.
DISTRIBUTOR—OE—WB—CG
Shaft—Grease cup—WB. Turn cup down one full turn.
Breaker Cams—CG. Apply sparingly.
Breaker Pivot—OE. One drop one pivot.
Rotor Wick—OE. Three or four drops on felt under rotor.
51 ••BH I 6
CRANKING MOTOR—OE GENERATOR (Some Models)—OE
Two oilers. One each end. Fill oiler at cammutator One oiler, on some models. Fill oiler at cammutator
(front) end. Lubricate drive end (rear) bushing, while (rear) end.
cranking motor is removed
Figure 48—Lubricatian Localized Views
RA PD 333039
•90'
TM 9-801
37
LUBRICATION
"lamp Mounted
Type)-OE
Remove caver and element. Check oil level and cleanliness.
Clean in dry-cleaning solvent. Dry thoroughly. Install reter-
voir and fill to "oil level" mark with OE. SAE 50 above • 32 F
or SAE 30 between 32 F and 0 F. From 0 F to —40 F use
SA. Below—40 F operate dry. Install dry element and caver.
CARBURETER AIR CLEANER (Flange Mounted
Type)-OE
Remove caver and element assembly. Check oit level and
cleanliness. Clean in dry-cleaning solvent. Dry thoroughly.
Install reservoir and fill to "oil level mark with OE, seasonal
grade. From 0 F to —40 F use SA. Below —40 F operate
dry. Install element dry.
CRANKCASE VENTILATOR AND HYDROVAC AIR
CLEANER (Some Models)—OE
Remove reservoir and element. Check oil level and cleanli-
ness of element and reservoir. Clean in dry-cleaning solvent.
Dry thoroughly. Fill reservoir to "oil level" mark with OE, seo-
sonal grade. Pasition dry element in reservoir and install
( 10
HYDROVAC AIR CLEANER (Some Models)—OE
Remove air cleaner assembly and disassemble. Wash all ports
in dry-cleaning solvent. Dry and dip element in new SAE 10
engine oil. Reassemble and reinstall.
FILLER PLUGS
11
HYDROVAC CYLINDER—SA'
Two plugs (one in elbow, one at rear). Oilcan. Apply
one-half ounce lubricant in each hole. Apply brakes
several limes to distribute oil along cylinder shells.
12
BATTERY TERMINALS-CG
Two terminals. Inspect cable terminals. If loase or carroded,
remove and clean; install and tighten securely. Coot with
general purpase grease. Check water level and, if necessary,

add distilled water to V above plates.

Figure 49—Lubrication Localized Views
RA PD 333034
•91•
TM 9-801
37
DRAIN PLUG'*'
TRANSFER CASE—Split Axle—GO
Filler and drain plugs. Pump gun. Clean vent and
keep lubricant to level of filler hole. Drain when lubri-
cant is warm, preferably immediately after operation.
TRANSFER CASE—Banjo Axle—GO
Filler and drain plugs. Pump gun. Clean vent and
DRAIN PLUG 15
AXLE DIFFERENTIAL—Split Housing—GO
Filler and dram plugs. Pump gun. Clean vent and
FILLER PLUGS
16
DRAIN SCREW*
AXLE DIFFERENTIAL—Banjo Housing—GO
Filler plug and drain screw. Pump gun. Clean vent and
DRAIN PLUG
TRANSMISSION—GO
Filler and drain plugs. Pump gun. Keep lubricant to
level of filler hole. Drain when lubricant is warm, pre-
ferably immediately after operation. Do not flush.
POWER TAKE-OFF
Power take-off (when used) it equipped with drain plug on late
vehicles. Remove drain plug at some time transmission is
drained. Reinstall plug. Power take oft is lubricated by trans-
mission lubricant. No method ot draining is provided on early
vehicles, except at transmission.
Figure 5O—Lubrication Localized Views
RA PD 333040
•92•
TM 9-801
37
LUBRICATION
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING SUPPORT-WB RELEASE BEARING FORK GROOVE WB
Fill recess inside of release bearing support with Appl y light coat of grease to fork groove in release
grease. Lubricant should be level with edges of recess. bearing support Do.not fill groove.
CLUTCH SHAFT SPLINES—WB
Apply light coat of grease to clutch shaft splines. Do
not use excessive quantity.
CLUTCH RELEASE FORK SOCKET AND STUD-WB
Apply light coat of grease to socket in release fork and
to ball surface of stud. Install stud in fork socket and
secure with lock.
PILOT BEARING CRANKSHAFT RECESS—WB
Place a small amount of grease in crankshaft recess
before installing pilot bearing.
CLUTCH PILOT BEARING—WB
Hand pack bearing with grease, being sure that all
balls and races are coated.
Figure 5 1 —Lubrication Localized Views
RA PD 333033
.93.
TM 9-801
37
TRUCK, 21/2 -TON, 6x6
FITTING
26
FRONT AXLE UNIVERSAL—Split—BENDIX-WEISS
—CG
Two fittings and two level plugs. Pressure gun. Remove level
plug and apply lubricant through fitting until visible at level
plug. Replace level plug.
LEVEL PLUG (EARLY MODELS *
FRONT AXLE UNIVERSAL—Split—RZEPPA—CG
Two fittings and four plugs. Pressure gun. Remove level plug.
Apply three or four shots through fitting. Remove drive flange
plug and install temporary fitting. Lubricate through tempo-
rary fitting until visible at level hole. Remove temporary fining
and install two oluas.
FITTING
FRONT AXLE UNIVERSAL—Banjo—CG
Two fittings and two level plugs. Pressure gun. Remove
level plug and apply lubricant through fitting, until
visible at level plug. Replace level plug.
28
BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER—HB
Filler cap. Check level and, if necessary, add fluid until within
1" of filler hole. Bleed entire brake system, using pressure
tank, if available, when evident that air is in hydraulic lines.
Otherwise use pedal as pump.
TIE ROD ENDS—CG
Two fittings (one each end). Pressure gun. Apply
lubricant through fittings until new grease shows at
insides of yoke.
SHOCK ABSORBERS—SA
Two plugs (one each unit). Remove plug and check level of
fluid. If necessary to replenish, remove link between arm and
axle. Fill to capacity and pump arm to expel air. Repeat fill-
ing and pumping, until air is removed and fluid is at filler hole
level. Install plug and cannect link.
RA PD 333036
Figure 52—Lubrication Lacalized Views

.94.
TM 9-801
37
LUBRICATION
PLUG
VENT
PILLOW BLOCK—CG
One fitting. Pump gun. Apply lubricant through fitting
at side of housing, until lubricant flows from vent in
plug at top of housing.
FITTING / FITTING
VENT FITTING CAP 32
DRIVE PROPELLER SHAFT UNIVERSAL AND SLIP
JOINTS—CG
Ten universal and five slip joints. Pressure gun. Apply lubri-
cant through fitting until new lubricant shaws through relief
valve when lubricating universal or through vent ot end of
shaft when lubricating slip joint.
FITTING
33
HOIST AND WINCH PROPELLER SHAFT
UNIVERSAL JOINTS-CG
Two hoist and four winch universal joints. Pump gun.
Apply lubricant through fitting until grease appears at
journal.
FITTING
34
WINCH DRIVE SHAFT SLIP JOINT-CG
One fitting at rear of shaft. Pressure gun. Apply lubri-
cant through fitting until grease appears between shaft
and slip joint.
FITTING
35
HOIST PROPELLER SHAFT SLIP JOINT—CG
One fitting at rear of shaft. Pump pun. Apply lubri-
cant through fitting until grease appears between shaft
and slip joint.
36
HOIST PROPELLER SHAFT SUPPORT BEARING-CG
Two fittings. Pump gun. Appy lubricant through fitting

until new grease appears between bearing and shaft.

RA PD 333035
.95.
TM 9-801
37
TRUCK, 2V,-TON, 6x6
DRAIN PLUG (SOME MODELS)
STEERING GEAR HOUSING—GO
Filler plug. Drain plug on late models. Pump gun. Remove
drain plug (when used) to drain hausing. Reinstall plug and
fill to level af filler plug hale
PINTLE HOOK—OE—CG
Oil can. Apply OE to pins, cannections, and linkage surfaces.
Remove pintle hook assembly. Clean bushings and hook as-
sembly in dry.cleaning solvent. Lubricate bushings and hook
shaft with CG, general purpose grease.
LINKAGE—OE
Oil can. Hand brake linkage, hand brake pull rod clevit pins,
clutch pedal linkage. Also, clutch and brake pedal shaft and
transfer case cantrol lever, when not equipped with lubrica-
tion fittings.
CLUTCH AND BRAKE PEDAL SHAFT—CG
One fitting. Pressure gun. Apply lubricant through fit-
ting until new grease shows around pedals.
TRANSFER CASE CONTROL LEVERS—CG
Three fittings. Pressure gun. Apply lubricant through
fittings until new grease shows around levers and
bracket.
42
DRAG LINK—CG
Two fittings (one each end). Pressure gun. Apply
lubricant through fittings until new grease shows
around seats.
RA PD 333037
•96•
TM 9-801
37
LUBRICATION
ISEALFLANGE
REAR SPRING SEAT BEARINGS
(Lip Type Seal on Late Models)—CO
Two fittings. Pressure gun. Apply lubricant through
fitting until new grease appears between flange and
seal at inside of seat.
44
REAR SPRING SEAT BEARINGS
(Felt Type Seal on Early Models)—CG
Two spring seat caps. Remove pipe plug and install tem-
porary fitting. Apply lubricant through fitting until new
grease appears through outer bearing. Remove temporary
fitting and install pipe plug. Install spring seat cap and gasket.
WHEEL HUBS—WB
Remove hub and bearings. Clean hub and bearings in dry
cleaning solvent. Inspect bearings and, if cracked, chipped
or pitted, replace with new part. Coal inside surface of hub
and spindle thinly with grease to prevent carrasion. Do not
fill hub. Reassemble and adjust bearings.
GREASE BEARING—WB—CG
Hand pack or bearing lubricator. Force grease into bearing
with lubricator or, if not available, use hand method. Apply
at big end of rollers until grease cames out between cage and
race at small end of rollers. Smear grease around outside of
cage and rollers.
FITTINGS
47
FRONT SPRING SHACKLES—CG
Four fittings (two each shackle). Pressure gun. Apply
lubricant through fittings until new grease shows inside
shackle.
48
FRONT SPRING PIN—CG
Two fittings (one each side). Pressure gun. Apply
lubricant through fittings until new grease shows at
sides of spring.

RA PD 333041
736603 O - 47 - 7
.97.
TM 9-801
37
WINCH WORM HOUSING—GO
Filler, level and drain plugs. Pump gun. Lubricate
through filler hole (top) until lubricant is up to level hole
(side). Drain when lubricant is warm. Vent hole under
name plate should be plugged.
FITTING
ISO
WINCH SHAFT—CG
One fitting (right end of shaft). Pressure gun with
adapter included in tool kit. Apply lubricant through
fitting until new grease shows at end of shaft.
WINCH CLUTCH—OE
Oil con. Apply lubricant to sliding surface of jaw
clutch yoke groove and linkage. Clean and re-oil
when clutch sticks or when inspection shows to be dry.
WINCH DRUM BEARING—CG
Two fittings (one each end of drum). Pressure gun with
adopter included in tool kit. Apply two or three shots
of lubricant through fittings.
WINCH CABLE- -OE
OH can. Inspect full length of cable, and lubricate if
surface is not oily or if rust is apparent.
WINCH DRIVE SHAFT SHEAR PIN—OE
Oil can. Apply lubricant to both ends of pin and be-
tween yoke and worm shaft. If corroded condition is
apparent, remove shear pin and yoke from shaft.
Clean, lubricate and reassemble.
RA PD 333038
•98*
TM 9-801
38-40
Section IX
NEW VEHICLE RUN-IN TEST
38. PURPOSE.
a. When a new or reconditioned vehicle is first received at the
using organization it is necessary for second echelon personnel to
determine whether or not the vehicle will operate satisfactorily when
placed in service. For this purpose, inspect all accessories, subas-
semblies, assemblies, tools, and equipment to see that they are in
place and correctly adjusted. In addition, they will perform a run-in
test of at least 50 miles as directed in AR 850-15, paragraph 25,
table III, according to procedures in paragraph 40 below.
39. CORRECTION OF DEFICIENCIES.
a. Deficiencies disclosed during the course of the run-in test
will be treated as follows:
(1) Correct any deficiencies within the scope of the maintenance
echelon of the using organization before the vehicle is placed in
service.
(2) Refer deficiencies beyond the scope of the maintenance eche-
lon of the using organization to a higher echelon for correction.
(3) Bring deficiencies of serious nature to the attention of the
supplying organization.
40. RUN-IN TEST PROCEDURES.
a. Preliminary Service.
(1) FIRE EXTINGUISHER. See that portable extinguisher is
present and in good condition. Test it momentarily for proper oper-
ation, and mount it securely.
(2) FUEL, OIL, AND WATER. Fill fuel tank. Check crankcase oil
and coolant supply, and add as necessary to bring to correct levels.
Allow room for expansion in fuel tanks and radiator. During freezing
weather, test value of antifreeze and add as necessary to protect
cooling system against freezing. CAUTION: // there is a tag attached
to filler cap or steering wheel concerning engine oil in crankcase,
follow instructions on tag before driving the vehicle.
(3) FUEL FILTER. Inspect fuel filter for leaks, damage, and se-
cure mountings and connections. Drain filter sediment bowl. If any
appreciable amount of water or dirt is present, remove bowl, and
clean bowl and element in dry-cleaning solvent. Also drain accumu-

lated water or dirt from bottom of fuel tank. Drain only till fuel
runs clean.
(4) BATTERY. Make hydrometer and voltage test of battery,
and add clean water to bring electrolyte % inch above plates.
(5) AIR CLEANERS AND VENTILATORS. Inspect carbureter air
cleaner and crankcase ventilator units to see it they are in good
condition. Remove air cleaner reservoir and element and clean and
.99.
TM 9-801
40
service according to lubrication order, paragraph 37. Service crank-
case ventilator valve according tp paragraph 82.
(6) ACCESSORIES AND BELTS. See that accessories such as car-
bureter, generator, regulator, cranking motor, water pump, fan, and
oil filters are in good condition and secure. Be sure fan and generator
drive belt is in good condition and adjusted to provide l/z inch finger
pressure deflection.
(7) ELECTRICAL WIRING. Examine all accessible wiring and
conduits to see if they are in good condition, securely connected,
and properly supported.
(8) TIRES. See that all tires, including spares, are properly in-
flated to 55 pounds (maximum) cool; that stems are in correct
position; all valve caps present and finger-tight. Remove objects
lodged in treads, carcasses, and between duals. Inspect for damage.
(9) WHEEL AND FLANGE NUTS. See that all wheel mounting and
axle flange nuts or cap screws are present and secure.
(10) FENDERS AND BUMPERS. Examine fenders and bumper for
looseness and damage.
(11) TOWING CONNECTIONS. Examine all towing devices to see
that they are in good condition and securely mounted. Be sure
pintle hook operates and latches properly.
(12) BODY, CAB, TARPAULIN. Inspect all types of bodies, (cargo,
dump, and water tank) for damage, loose mountings, attachments,
hardware, and condition of paint and markings. Be sure cabs are
secure; that soft top and frames are in good condition; that tarpau-
lins, (where used) are not damaged and are installed or stowed
properly. On tanks, be sure filler caps and drain valve are in good
condition, that they operate properly, and do not leak.
(13) LUBRICATE. Perform a complete lubrication of the vehicle,
covering all intervals, according to the instructions on the lubrication
order, paragraph 37, except gear cases, wheel bearings, and other
units covered in preceding procedures. Check all gear case oil levels,
and add as necessary to bring to correct level. Change only if condi-
tion of oil indicates the necessity, or if gear oil is not of proper grade
for existing atmospheric temperature. NOTE: Perform items (14)
to (17) during lubrication.

(14) SPRINGS AND SUSPENSION. Inspect front and rear springs,

shock absorbers and links, torque rods, and rear spring seats for
looseness and damage. Check shocks and spring seats for leakage,
and proper oil or fluid levels. Look for spring sag and shifted leaves.
(15) STEERING LINKAGE. Inspect steering gear case, all arms,
rods and connections, column and wheel, to be sure they are in
good condition, properly assembled .and securely connected or
mounted. Check gear case for proper oil level and leaks.
(16) PROPELLER SHAFTS, PILLOW BLOCK, AND VENT. Inspect
all shafts, universal joints, and pillow block to see if they are in good
condition, correctly assembled, alined, secure, and not leaking exces-
sively at seals or vents. Be sure vent passages are not clogged.
(17) AXLE AND TRANSFER CASE VENTS. Examine these units
for looseness, damage, and see that they are not clogged.
•100•
TM 9-801
40
(18) CHOKE. Examine choke to be sure it opens and closes fully
in response to operation of choke button.
(19) ENGINE WARM-UP. Start engine, noting if cranking motor
action is satisfactory, and any tendency toward hard starting. Set
hand throttle to run engine at fast idle during warm-up. During
warm-up, reset choke button so engine will run smoothly, and to
prevent overchoking and oil dilution.
(20) INSTRUMENTS.
(a) Oil Pressure Gage. Pressure should be 35 to 40 pounds at
operating speeds and about 5 pounds at idle speed. Stop engine if
pressure is not evident in 30 seconds.
(b) Ammeter. Gage should show a positive ( + ) charge for a
period after starting, until generator restores to battery the current
used in starting, then a zero or only slight charge if battery is up
and with all lamps and accessories turned off.
(c) Engine Temperature Gage. Reading should increase gradu-
ally during warm-up, to normal operating range, 160°F to 185°F.
Maximum safe operating temperature, 220°F (205°F at high alti-
tudes). CAUTION: Do not move vehicle until engine temperature
has reached at least 140°F.
(d) Fuel Gage. Gage should register the approximate amount
of fuel in tank.
(21) ENGINE CONTROLS. Observe if engine responds properly to
controls, and if controls operate without excessive looseness or bind-
ing.
(22) HORN AND WINDSHIELD WIPERS. See that these items are
in good condition and secure. If tactical situation permits, test horn
for proper operation and tone. See if wiper arms will operate
through their full range and that blade contacts glass evenly and
firmly.
(23) GLASS AND REAR VIEW MIRRORS. Clean all cab glass and
mirrors and inspect for looseness and damage. Adjust rear view
mirrors for correct vision.
(24) LAMPS (LIGHTS) AND REFLECTORS. Clean lenses and in-
spect all units for looseness and damage. If tactical situation permits,
open and close all light switches to see if lamps respond properly.
(25) LEAKS—GENERAL. Look on ground under vehicle, and

within engine compartment for evidence of fuel, oil, or water leaks,
and around axles and transmission for evidence of grease leaks. Trace
all leaks to their source and correct or report them.
( 26 ) TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT.
(a) Tools. Check tool lists, paragraph 7, to be sure they are all
present, and be sure they are in good condition and properly mounted
or stowed.
(b) Equipment. Check On Vehicle Stowage Lists (pars. 8 and
9) to be sure all items of standard or special equipment are present,
in good condition and properly mounted or stowed.
(c) Winch. Inspect winch assembly to see that it is in good con-
dition, correctly and securely assembled and mounted and not leak-
ing. Test operation of sliding clutch and inspect automatic brake
•1O1 •
TM 9-801
40
mechanism for looseness or damage. Unwind winch cable and ex-
amine. Clean it with a rag saturated with thin oil or kerosene. As it is
rewound evenly and tightly, apply a thin film of clean engine oil.
Fasten cable chain hook securely.
(d) Hoist. Raise dump body with hoist and inspect mountings,
drive, controls, pump and lines, and cylinder for looseness, damage,
and leaks at pump, lines, or cylinder. Stop engine with body up and
observe any tendency of body to drop. When lowering body, see that
it lowers fully and that guides aline body with frame. Check or fill
hoist cylinder according to lubrication order, paragraph 37.
b. Run-in Test. Perform the following procedures, (1) to (10)
inclusive, during the road test of the vehicle. On vehicles which have
been driven 50 miles or more in the course of delivery from the
supplying to the using organization, reduce the length of the road
test to the least mileage necessary to make observations listed below.
CAUTION: Avoid continuous operation of the vehicle at speeds
approaching the maximums indicated on the caution plate.
(1) DASH INSTRUMENTS AND GAGES. Do not move vehicle until
engine temperature reaches 140°F. Maximum safe operating tem-
perature, 220°F. Observe readings of ammeter, oil, temperature, and
fuel gages to be sure they are indicating the proper function of the
units to which they apply. Also see that speedometer registers the
vehicle speed and that odometer registers total accumulating mileage.
(2) BRAKES, FOOT AND HAND. Operate brakes at various speeds
during road test. Apply foot pedal sufficiently to stop vehicle in
minimum distance and observe effectiveness, any pull to one side,
unusual noise, chatter, and pedal travel. Stop vehicle on incline, apply
parking brake and note if it holds vehicle. Note if lever has sufficient
reserve after application and that pawl and sector lock applied
brakes securely.
(3) CLUTCH. Note pedal free-travel (paragraph 150). Check
clutch for drag when shifting into low gear. Note any unusual noise
when pedal is depressed which may indicate defective release bear-
ing. With transmission in gear, note any tendency of clutch to chatter,
grab when clutch is engaged, or slippage when fully engaged under
load.
(4) TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER UNIT. Shift mechanism of

transmission and power take-off, transfer and declutching unit should
operate easily and smoothly and gears should operate without ex-
cessive noise and not slip out of mesh during operation.
(5) STEERING. Observe steering action for binding or looseness,
and note any excessive pull to one side, wander, shimmy, or wheel
tramp. See that column bracket and wheel are secure.
(6) ENGINE. Be on the alert for any abnormal engine operating
characteristics or unusual noise, such as lack of pulling power or
acceleration; back-firing, misfiring, stalling, overheating, or excessive
exhaust smoke. Observe if engine responds properly to all controls.
(7) UNUSUAL NOISE. Be on the alert throughout road test for
any unusual noise from body, cab and attachments, running gear,
•102•
TM 9-801
40-41
suspension units, or wheels that might indicate looseness, damage,
inadequate lubrication, or under-inflated tires.
(8) HALT VEHICLE AT IO-MILE INTERVALS FOR SERVICES (9)
AND (10) BELOW.
(9) TEMPERATURES. Cautiously hand-feel each brake drum and
wheel hub for abnormal temperatures. Examine transmission, trans-
fer case, and differential housings for overheating and excessive oil
leaks at seals or gaskets. NOTE: Transfer case temperatures are
normally greater than other gear cases.
(10) LEAKS. With engine running, and fuel, engine oil, and cool-
ing systems under pressure, look within engine compartment and
under vehicle for indications of leaks.
c. Vehicle Publications and Reports.
(1) PUBLICATIONS. See that vehicle Technical Manuals, Lubri-
cation order, Standard Form No. 26 (Driver's Report-Accident, Mo-
tor Transportation) and W.D., A.G.O. Form No. 478 (HWO and
Major Unit Assembly Replacement Record), are in the vehicle,
legible, and properly stowed. NOTE: U.S.A. registration number and
vehicle nomenclature must be filled in on Form No. 478, for new
vehicles.
(2) REPORTS. Upon completion of the Run-in Test, correct or
report any deficiencies noted. Report general condition of the vehicle
to designated individual in authority.
Section X
FIRST ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE SERVICE
41 PURPOSE.
a. To insure mechanical efficiency, it is necessary that the vehicle
be systematically inspected at intervals each day it is operated and
weekly, so defects may be discovered and corrected before they re-
sult in serious damage or failure. Certain scheduled maintenance
service will be performed at these designated intervals. The services
set forth in this section are those performed by drivers or crew, Be-
fore-Operation, During-Operation, At-Halt, and After-Operation and
Weekly.
b. Driver Preventive Maintenance Services are listed on the
back of "Drivers Trip Ticket and Preventive Maintenance Service

Record" WD Form No. 48 to cover vehicles of all types and models.

Items peculiar to specific vehicles but not listed on WD Form No.
48 are covered in manual procedures under the items with which
they are related. Certain items listed on the form that do not pertain
to the vehicle involved are eliminated from the procedures as written
into the manual. Every organization must thoroughly school each
•103•
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41-42
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
driver in performing the maintenance procedures set forth in man-
uals whether they are listed specifically on WD Form No. 48 or not
c. The items listed on WD Form No. 48 that apply to this ve-
hicle are expanded in this manual to provide specific procedures for
accompishment of the inspections and services. These services are
arranged to facilitate inspection and conserve the time of the driver
and are not necessarily in the same numerical order as shown on
WD Form No. 48. The item numbers, however, are identical with
those shown on that form.
d. The general inspection of each item applies also to any sup-
porting member or connection, and generally includes a check to see
whether the item is in good condition, correctly assembled, secure,
or excessively worn.
e. The inspection for "good condition" is usually an external
visual inspection to determine whether the unit is damaged beyond
safe or serviceable limits. The term good condition is explained
further by the following terms: Not bent or twisted, not chafed or
burned, not broken or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or
collapsed, not torn or cut.
f. The inspection of a unit to see that it is "correctly assembled"
is usually an external visual inspection to see whether it is in its nor-
mal assembled position in the vehicle.
g. The inspection of a unit to determine if it is "secure" is
usually an external visual examination, a wrench, hand-feel, or a
pry-bar check for looseness. Such an inspection should include any
brackets, lock washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used
in assembly.
h. "Excessively worn" will be understood to mean worn, close-to
or beyond serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not
replaced before the next scheduled inspection.
i. Any defects or unsatisfactory operating characteristics beyond
the scope of first echelon to correct must be reported at the earliest
opportunity to the designated individual in authority.
42. BEFORE-OPERATION SERVICE.
a. This inspection schedule is designed primarily as a check to

see that the vehicle has not been damaged, tampered with, or sab-
otaged since the "After-Operation Service" was performed. Various
combat conditions may have rendered the vehicle, unsafe for opera-
tion and it is the duty of the driver to determine whether or not the
vehicle is in condition to carry out any mission to which it is assigned.
This operation will not be entirely omitted, even in extreme tactical
situations.
b. Procedures. Before-Operation Service consists of inspecting
items listed below according to the procedure described, and correct-
ing or reporting any deficiencies. Upon completion of the service,
results should be reported promptly to the designated individual in
authority.
(1) ITEM 1, TAMPERING AND DAMAGE. Examine the vehicle,
accessories, and equipment for damage, caused by tampering or
•104•
TM 9,801
42
sabotage, collision, falling debris, or shell fire since parking. Examine
the interior of engine compartment for evidence of above conditions,
and for loosened or damaged engine accessories or drive belt, leaking
fuel, disconnected oil lines, coolant lines, and control linkage.
(2) ITEM 2, FIRE EXTINGUISHER See that unit is in good condi-
tion, fully charged, (open filler plug to check contents) and that
nozzle is not clogged. Mount extinguisher securely.
(3) ITEM 3, FUEL, OIL, AND WATER. Check amount of fuel in
tank. Check crankcase oil level on dip stick. Examine coolant level
in radiator. Add fuel as necessary to complete mission, or to operate
vehicle to next scheduled refueling point. Add engine oil to crankcase
and coolant to radiator as needed to bring to correct levels. NOTE:
Any appreciable drop in levels since the last "After-Operation Serv-
ice" must be investigated, and cause corrected or reported. During
freezing weather when antifreeze solution is in use, if an excessive
addition of water is needed, antifreeze value must be checked by
2nd echelon and added if necessary. Spare fuel, oil, and water cans
must be full and securely mounted.
(4) ITEM 4, ACCESSORIES AND DRIVES. Examine units such as
carburetor, generator, regulator, cranking motor, fan, oil filter, and
air cleaner for looseness and damage. Make certain that water pump
and generator drive belt is in good condition and that adjustment
is satisfactory (Vi inch finger pressure deflection).
(5) ITEM 6, LEAKS—GENERAL. Inspect ground under vehicle
and within engine compartment for indications of fuel, engine oil,
coolant, afad gear oil or brake fluid leaks. Trace any leaks found to
their source, and correct or report them. •
(6) ITEM 8, CHOKE. As engine is started in item 7, below, ob-
serve if choke action is satisfactory.
(7) ITEM 7, ENGINE WARM-UP. Start engine noting any ten-
dency toward hard starting; if cranking motor has adequate crank-
ing speed, and engages and disengages without unusual noise. Set
hand throttle to run engine at fast idle during warm-up, and reset
choke as necessary for engine to run smoothly and to prevent over-
choking and oil dilution.
(8) ITEM 9, INSTRUMENTS.

(a) Oil Gage. Oil pressure should be approximately five pounds

at slow idling speed.
(b) Ammeter. With battery fully charged and all lights and ac-
cessories turned off, ammeter may show a slight positive charge with
engine at fast idle. A high charge reading may be indicated immedi-
ately after starting until generator restores to battery current used
in starting. High charge may be indicated for some time if battery
charge is low or electric load is heavy.
(c) Engine Temperature Gage. Reading should increase gradu-
ally during warm-up period to normal operating range. Temperatures
between 160°F, and 220°F (205°F at high altitudes) are satisfactory
for efficient engine operation. Temperatures above 220°F (205°F at
high altitudes) or below 160°F indicate a deficiency. Engine must be
•105•
TM «9-801
42
TRUCK, 2'/a-TON, 6x6
stopped and trouble located and corrected. Do not move vehicle
until temperature reaches 140°F.
(d) Fuel Gage. Observe if gage registers level of fuel in tank.
Ordinarily tank should have been filled during "After-Operation
Service" and gage should read "FULL."
(9) ITEM 10, HORN AND WINDSHIELD WIPERS. If tactical situa-
tion permits, test horn for proper operation and tone. Test wipers
to see that they operate properly, and observe whether the blades
contact glass evenly and arms travel through full stroke. Inspect for
damage.
(10) ITEM 11, GLASS AND REAR VISION MIRROR. Clean all glass
and inspect for damage. Check adjustment of rear vision mirror and
see that it is secure.
(11) ITEM 15, SPRINGS AND SUSPENSION. Examine springs, shock
absorbers, torque rods, and rear spring seats and bearing caps to
see that they are in good condition; that all assembly mounting nuts
and screws are secure, and that shock absorbers and bearing caps
are not leaking.
(12) ITEM 16, STEERING LINKAGE. Inspect steering gear hous-
ing mounting bolts, all steering rods, and all joints for looseness or
damage. Examine steering gear housing for lubricant leaks.
(13) ITEM 13, WHEEL AND FLANGE NUTS. See that all wheel
mounting, and axle flange nuts or cap screws, are present and secure
(see paragraphs 167, 171 and 172).
(14) ITEM 14, TIRES. Examine tires including spare, for under
inflation. Correct pressure is 55 pounds (maximum) cool. Inspect
them for damage, and remove any embedded objects from treads and
carcass and from between duals.
(15) ITEM 18, TOWING CONNECTIONS. Inspect all towing de-
vices for looseness or damage. Be sure pintle operates freely and
locks securely. See that winch cable chain and hook are in good con-
dition and secured to front tow hooks.
(16) ITEM 19, BODY, LOAD AND TARPS. Inspect body for loose-
ness and damage. Be sure dump body is in alinement with frame and
guides; that tail gate is closed and secured. Examine filler openings
and drain cocks on water tank to be sure they are closed and locked
and inspect tank for leaks. Inspect cargo load for damage and proper
distribution. See that tarpaulin is in good condition and that all ropes
are properly lashed to body hooks.
(17) ITEM 12, LAMPS (LIGHTS) AND REFLECTORS. See that all
lights and warning reflectors are clean. Examine them for looseness
or damage. If tactical situation permits, open and close switches and
observe if lamps respond properly. Include stop and blackout lights.
(18) ITEM 17, FENDERS AND BUMPERS. Inspect fenders, bump-
ers, and running boards for looseness or damage.
(19) ITEM 20, DECONTAMINATOR. Be sure decontaminator is
present, fully charged and secure. Remove filler plug to check con-
tents.
(20) ITEM 21, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT. Be sure all items are
present, serviceable, and properly mounted or stowed (Section III).
•106•
TM 9-801
42-43
(21) ITEM 22, ENGINE OPERATION. Before vehicle is put in
motion, be sure it has reached a satisfactory operating temperature,
(at least 140°F) and that it idles smoothly with choke wide open.
Accelerate and decelerate engine and listen for any unusual noise.
Note any unsatisfactory operating characteristics or excessive ex-
haust smoke.
(22) ITEM 23, DRIVER'S PERMIT AND FORM 26. Driver must
have his operator's permit on his person. Check to see that accident
Form No. 26, Operator's Manual, Lubrication Order,, and W.D.,
A.G.O. Form No. 478 are present in vehicle, legible and properly
stowed.
(23) ITEM 25, DURING-OPERATION CHECK. The During-Opera-
tion Services and observations start immediately the vehicle is put
in motion as follows:
43. DURING-OPERATION SERVICE.
a. While vehicle is in motion, listen for any sounds such as rat-
tles, knocks, squeals, or hums that may indicate trouble. Look for in-
dications of trouble in cooling system and smoke from any part of
the vehicle. Be on the alert to detect any odor of overheated com-
ponents~br units such as generator, brakes or clutch, fuel vapor from
a leak in fuel system, exhaust gas or other signs of trouble. Any time
the brakes are used, gears shifted, or vehicle turned, consider this a
test and notice any unsatisfactory or unusual performance. Watch
the instruments constantly. Notice promptly unusual instrument in-
dication that may signify possible trouble in system to which the in-
strument applies.
b. Procedures. During-Operation Services consist of observing
items listed below according to the procedures following each item,
and investigating any indications of serious trouble. Notice minor
deficiencies to be corrected or reported at earliest opportunity,
usually next scheduled halt.
(1) ITEM 27, FOOT AND HAND BRAKES. Foot brakes should stop
vehicle smoothly and effectively with normal pedal pressure and
return to off position immediately pedal is released. Pedal should
have V2 inch free travel before meeting resistance and pedal to floor
board clearances should be l/z to 1 inch when fully released. Hand

brake should latch securely, and hold vehicle on reasonable incline,

leaving at least 1/3 ratchet travel in reserve.
(2) ITEM 33, STEERING GEAR. Note any indication of looseness
or binding, pull to one side, wandering, shimmy, wheel tramp, or
unusual noise.
(3) ITEM 28, CLUTCH. Clutch should not grab, chatter or squeal
during engagement or slip when fully engaged under load. Pedal
should have 2 Va inches free travel and never less than 1 inch before
meeting resistance (see paragraph 150).
(4) ITEM 29, TRANSMISSION. Transmission and power take-off
should shift smoothly, operate without unusual noise, and gears
should not slip out of mesh during operation. Be sure power take-off
control lever latch holds ever securely.
•107•
TM 9-801
43-44
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
(5) ITEM 30, TRANSFER. Transfer unit range gears and de-
clutching mechanism should shift easily, operate without unusual
noise, and not creep out of mesh during operation.
(6) ITEM 31, ENGINE AND CONTROLS. The driver must be on
the alert for deficiencies in engine performance such as lack of usual
power, misfiring or stalling, unusual noise, indications of overheating
or excessive exhaust smoke. Observe if engine responds to all controls
and if controls appear to be in proper adjustment and not excessive-
ly loose or binding.
(7) ITEM 32, INSTRUMENTS. Observe all pertinent instrument
readings frequently during operation, to be sure they indicate or
record the proper function of the unit or system to which they
apply. Observe if speedometer registers vehicle speed in miles per
hour, and if odometer records accumulating mileage.
(8) ITEM 34, RUNNING GEAR. Be on the alert for any unusual
operating characteristics or noise from wheels, axles, or suspension
units that might indicate looseness or damage or underinflated tires.
(9) ITEM 35, BODY. Note any noise or abnormal condition that
might indicate shifting, loose tarpaulins or curtains, loose or damaged
doors, hardware (closed type cab), floor or inspection plateôr body
attachments. Make certain that top, rear, and side curtains on open
type cab are secure.
44. AT-HALT SERVICE.
a. At-Halt Services may be regarded as minimum maintenance
procedures and should be performed under all tactical conditions
even though more extensive maintenance services must be slighted
or omitted altogether.
b. Procedures. At-Halt Services consist of investigating any
deficiencies noted during operation, inspecting items listed below ac-
cording to the procedures following the items, and correcting any
deficiencies found. Deficiencies not corrected should be reported
promptly to the designated individual in authority.
(1) ITEM 38, FUEL, OIL, AND WATER SUPPLY. Check the fuel,
oil, and coolant supply to see that it is adequate to operate the
vehicle to the next scheduled halt. If engine is hot, add coolant slowly
while engine is running at a fast idle. Make sure vent in fuel tank
cap is open and valve free.

(2) ITEM 47, ACCESSORIES AND BELTS. Examine all accessible
units for looseness or damage. Be sure fan and generator belt de-
flection is Vi inch. If radio noise caused by operation of the engine
has been reported, examine all wiring and radio noise suppression
devices in engine compartment for damage, loose connections or
mountings. Look particularly for scorched, loose or damaged resistor-
suppressors at spark plugs and distributor.
(3) ITEM 48, AIR CLEANERS. If operating under extremely dusty
or sandy conditions, inspect the air cleaners and breather cap to see
that they are in condition to deliver clean air properly. Service if
necessary.
•108•
TM 9-801
44-45
(4) ITEM 39, TEMPERATURES, HUBS, BRAKES, AND DRUMS.
Place hand cautiously on each brake drum and wheel hub and note
if it is overheated.
(5) ITEM 46, LEAKS—GENERAL. Look under vehicle and within
engine compartment for indications of fuel, oil, brake fluid, or coolant
leaks. Trace any leaks found to their source and correct or report
them.
(6) ITEM 43, STEERING LINKAGE. Examine all steering control
mechanism, arms and linkage joints for looseness or damage. In-
yestigate any unusual condition noted during operation.
(7) ITEM 40, AXLE AND TRANSFER CASE VENTS. Inspect trans-
fer case, transmission, and axle housing for overheating and note any
excessive lubricant leaks. Wipe clean and inspect axle housing and
transfer case vents for damage or clogging. Vents must be kept open.
(8) ITEM 41, PROPELLER SHAFTS. Inspect all propeller shafts
and universal joints for looseness, damage, and excessive lubricant
leaks. Remove any foreign matter entangled around, shafts or uni-
versal joints.
(9) ITEM 42, SPRINGS AND SUSPENSIONS. Inspect for broken
or shifted spring leaves, damaged or loose U-bolts, shackles, rebound
clips or shock absorber bodies and linkage, or excessive shock ab-
sorber fluid leaks. Ascertain that torque rods are secure and not
damaged, and rear spring seat bearing caps are tight and not leaking
excessive lubricant.
(10) ITEM 44, WHEEL AND FLANGE NUTS. See that all wheel
mounting and axle flange nuts or cap screws are present and secure.
(11) ITEM 45, TIRES. Inspect all tires for under inflation or
damage. Remove embedded objects in treads or carcasses and from
between duals. See that spare is inflated and secure in carrier.
(12) ITEM 49, FENDERS AND BUMPERS. Inspect bumpers and
fenders and rear splash guards for looseness or damage.
(13) ITEM 50, TOWING CONNECTIONS. Inspect front tow hooks
and rear pintle hook to be sure they are in good condition, securely
mounted, and if in use, that they are properly connected. Be sure
winch (when used) cable and cable chain are properly wound and
secured to front tow hooks.

(14) ITEM 51, BODY LOAD AND TARPS. Inspect for indications
of cab, body or load shifting and for damage, and be sure tarpaulin
(when used) is properly secured.
(15) ITEM 52, GLASS. Clean all windshield, mirror, light, and
warning reflector glass and inspect for damage.
45. AFTER-OPERATION AND WEEKLY SERVICES.
a. After-Operation Servicing is particularly important because
at this time the driver inspects his vehicle to detect any deficiencies
that may have developed and corrects those he is permitted to
handle. He should report promptly, to the designated individual in
authority the results of his inspection. If this schedule is performed
thoroughly, the vehicle should be ready to roll again on a moment's
notice. The Before-Operation Service, with a few exceptions, is then
•109•
TM 9-801
45
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
necessary only to ascertain whether the vehicle is in the same condi-
tion in which it was left upon completion of the After-Operation
Service. The After-Operation Service should never be entirely
omitted even in extreme tactical situations, but may be reduced to
the bare fundamental services outlined for the At-Halt Service if
necessary.
b. Procedures. When performing the After-Operation Service
the driver must remember and consider any irregularities noticed
during the day in the Before-Operation, During-Operation, and At-
Halt Services. The After-Operation Service consists of inspecting
and servicing the following items. Those items of the After-Operation
Service that are marked by an asterisk ( * ) require additional weekly
services, the procedures for which are indicated in subparagraph
(b) of each applicable item.
(1) ITEM 55, ENGINE OPERATION. Accelerate and decelerate
engine and note any tendency to miss or backfire. Listen for any
unusual noise or vibration. Note any unusual exhaust smoke. In-
vestigate and correct or report any deficiencies noted during oper-
ation.
(2) ITEM 56, INSTRUMENTS. Check all pertinent instruments
to be sure all are operative and indicate normal readings. Stop
engine, first allowing it to cool off for four or five minutes if it is
at or beyond normal temperature.
(3) ITEM 54, FUEL, OIL, AND WATER SUPPLY. Fill fuel tanks,
(see if fuel gage indicates full). Check crankcase oil and add to
correct level. Add coolant to correct level. NOTE: Do not overfill
fuel tanks or radiator. Allow room for expansion. In freezing weather
if any appreciable amount of coolant is necessary, have antifreeze
value checked and add sufficient to protect cooling system against
freezing. Fill all spare fuel and water cans.
(4) ITEM 57, HORN AND WINDSHIELD WIPERS. Inspect to see
that these items are secure and not damaged. If tactical conditions
permit, test horn for proper operation and tone.
(5) ITEM 58, GLASS AND REAR VISION MIRROR. Clean and in-
spect for damage and see that mountings are secure.
(6) ITEM 59, LAMPS (LIGHTS) AND REFLECTORS. Inspect for

looseness or damage. If tactical situation permits, test all lamps and

switches for proper operation. Clean lenses and reflectors.
( 7 ) ITEM 60, FIRE EXTINGUISHER. Inspect for looseness or dam-
age and full charge. Remove filler plug to check contents. If ex-
tinguisher has been used or valves opened, report for refill or ex-
change.
(8) ITEM 61, DECONTAMINATOR. Inspect for looseness or dam-
age and full charge. Remove filler plug to check contents. If used,
report for refill or exchange.
(9) ITEM 6 2, * BATTERIES.
(a) Inspect batteries to see that they are clean, secure and not
leaking or damaged. See that cell caps are finger-tightv
(b) Weekly. Clean dirt from top of battery. Inspect for bulging
or leaks. If terminal connections or post are corroded, clean them
•no•
TM 9-801
. 45
thoroughly and apply fresh, thin coating of grease. Tighten terminal
bolts if loose. Remove vent caps and check level of electrolyte. Add
fresh clean water if required to bring electrolyte to proper level (see
paragraph 119), take proper precautions during cold weather against
freezing. Battery carrier should be secure, clean, free of rust, and well
painted. If mountings are loose, tighten them cautiously so as not
to damage the battery case.
(10) ITEM 63, ACCESSORIES AND BELT. Inspect units such as
carbureter, generator, cranking motor, fan, water pump, distributor,
regulator unit and oil filter for looseness, damage, or leaks. Check
condition and adjustment of generator and water pump drive belt.
Adjust, if necessary, to provide Va inch finger pressure deflection.
Investigate and correct or report any deficiencies of accessory units
or drive noted during operation.
(11) ITEM 64, ELECTRICAL WIRING. Inspect all ignition wiring
for looseness, damage, or deterioration of insulation. Wipe off excess
grease or moisture, and perform an inspection of all accessible low
voltage wiring and connections for looseness or damage. Be sure
that all wiring is supported so as not to chafe against other vehicle
parts. Examine all radio suppression bond strap, filter, or capacitor
bolts and nuts for looseness. Inspect resistor-suppressors at spark
plugs and distributor for scorching, looseness or other damage.
(12) ITEM 65, AIR CLEANERS AND BREATHER CAPS. Inspect for
looseness or damage. Examine oil in reservoirs for correct level and
excessive dirt. When operating in sandy or dusty conditions, clean
and service air cleaners and breather caps as often as necessary,
according to lubrication order. Be sure all gaskets seal properly and
that joints and connections are secure.
(13 ) ITEM 66, *FUEL FILTER.
(a) Inspect for looseness, damage and fuel leaks.
(b) Weekly. Remove sediment bowl drain plug and drain off all
accumulated dirt and water. If draining of fuel pump sediment bowl
shows excessive dirt or water, remove and clean element in dry-
cleaning solvent and reinstall securely.
(14) ITEM 67, ENGINE CONTROLS. Examine all engine operating
control linkage for looseness, damage, excessive wear, and adequate

lubrication.
(15) ITEM 68, * TIRES.
(a) Examine all tires including spares for damage and excessive
wear. Remove all embedded foreign matter, such as nails, glass, or
stones from treads and carcasses and from between duals. Check for
proper position of valve stem and presence of valve caps. Inflate
to 55 pounds (maximum) cool.
(b) Weekly. Replace badly worn or otherwise unserviceable
tires. Serviceable tires which show abnormal wear should be re-
located to other wheels to even wear. Apparent mechanical deficien-
cies causing such wear should be reported for attention by higher
echelon.
(16) ITEM 69, SPRINGS AND SUSPENSIONS. Inspect all units for
looseness or damage. Look for abnormal spring sag, shifted spring
•111•
TM 9-801
45
leaves, distorted torque rod or loose rod ends, and leaking shock
absorbers or rear spring seat bearings.
(17) ITEM 70, STEERING LINKAGE. Inspect all steering com-
ponents for looseness or damage. Examine steering gear housing and
linkage joints for lubricant leakage or lack of lubrication. Investigate
any unusual operating conditions noted during operation.
(18) ITEM 71, PROPELLER SHAFTS, CENTER BEARING (PILLOW
BLOCK). Inspect all propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness or
damage and excessive oil leaks. Remove any foreign material wound
around shafts or joints. Examine center bearing (pillow block) for
looseness, damage or excessive leaks.
(19) ITEM 72, *AXLE, PILLOW BLOCK, AND TRANSFER VENTS.
(a) See that all axle housing,"pillow block, and transfer case
vents are present, in good condition and clean. Inspect for indications
of lubricant leakage from vents.
(b) Weekly. Remove all vents and clean out passages. Reinstall
securely.
(20) ITEM 73, LEAKS:—GENERAL. Look under vehicle for indi-
cations of fuel, engine oil, coolant, brake fluid or gear oil leaks.
(21) ITEM 74, *GEAR OIL LEVELS. (Weekly) Check gear oil
levels in differentials, transfer case, transmission, winch and steering
gear housing, and front axle steering knuckle supports and report if
low. Correct levels are from Vz inch below, when cool, to lower edge
of filler hole when hot, except winch and steering gear which should
be to lower edge of filler hole at all times. If an oil change in any of
these units is due, or condition warrants, drain and fill according to
lubrication order, Section VIII.
(22) ITEM 76, FENDERS AND BUMPERS. Inspect front fenders,
front and rear bumpers, and rear splash guards for looseness or
damage.
(23) ITEM 77, TOWING CONNECTIONS. Inspect front tow hooks
and rear pintle hook to see that they are in good condition and
securely mounted. If in use, be sure they are properly connected,
that pintle hook latch is locked and pin is in place.
(24) ITEM 78, BODY, LOAD, AND TARPAULINS (HOIST IF USED).
Inspect cab carefully for damage or loose mountings or attachments.

Correct or report as necessary. Examine top tarpaulin and end cur-

tains if in use, for worn spots or other damage and see that they are
secure. On cargo bodies, keep all body mounting bolts tight at all
times in order to prevent shifting of body on chassis. Inspect all
mountings spaced along body longitudinal sills which will disclose
loosened or broken mounting bolts which are easily tightened or re-
placed. Any cargo must be properly distributed and secure. Water
tank body mountings. The inspection of body mounting bolts and
tightening is performed in the same manner as described for cargo
body. See that filler caps and drain cocks are closed and secure. On
vehicles equipped with dump cargo body and hoist, the body mount-
ing and assembly bolts must be checked and kept tightened at all
times. Examine bolts which attach wood rails to top of subframe
shackles for looseness. Tighten as necessary. Make certain that body
•112•
TM 9-801
45
hinge bracket bolts are tight and hinge pins are in good condition and
well lubricated. Examine packing gland nuts located at hoist pump to
pump drive shafts for leaks. Pump manifold and pump valve shaft
should be tightened whenever oil leaks are observed. Check oil level
in hoist cylinder as directed in lubrication order (Section VIII).
(25) ITEM 79, *WINCH.
(a) Examine winch assembly for looseness or damage and ex-
cessive oil leaks at worm gear housing. See that winch drive shaft
shear pin is in good condition, lubricated, and secure. Make certain
that winch clutch operates freely, is lubricated, and locks securely.
(b) Weekly. If vehicle has been operated in deep water, sample
lubricant for contamination. If water is present, report condition. If
winch cable is dry, dirty, or wound unevenly, unwind entire length,
clean, and rewind evenly, after applying oil on cable as directed in
paragraph 37, Lubrication. Secure cable chain hook securely to front
tow hooks.
(26) ITEM 82, ""TIGHTEN.
(a) Tighten any mounting or external assembly nuts or screws
where inspection of vehicle has indicated the necessity.
(b) Weekly. Tighten wheel mounting and axle flange nuts and
cap screws, spring U-bolts, eye bolts, shackles and rebound clips,
torque rods, shock links, U-joint companion flanges, body mountings,
engine mountings, accessories or special equipment mountings, trans-
fer case mountings, steering arms, towing connections, or any other
mountings or external assembly nuts or screws which inspection or
experience indicates as necessary on a weekly or mileage basis.
(27) ITEM 83, * LUBRICATE AS NEEDED.
(a) Lubricate all items such as shackles, hinges, latches, control
linkage frictional joints, or any point where inspection has indicated
oil can or hand greasing is needed.
(b) Weekly. Lubricate all points of the vehicle indicated on the
lubrication order, Section VIII, as needing lubrication on a weekly
or a mileage basis.
(28) ITEM 84, * CLEAN ENGINE AND VEHICLE.
(a) Clean dirt and grease or oil drippings from inside cab, and
from engine compartment and exterior of engine. Wipe off excess dirt
and grease from entire vehicle.

(b) Weekly. Wash vehicle when possible. If not possible, wipe
off thoroughly. Inspect paint or camouflage pattern for rust or for
bright spots which might cause light reflections. See that vehicle
markings are legible unless covered for tactical reasons. CAUTION:
// vehicle is driven into water for washing, care must be taken to
see that water or dirt does not get into wheel bearings, gear cases or
brakes, or on engine or electrical units or wiring.
(29) ITEM 85, *TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT.
(a) Check vehicle stowage and tool lists, Section III, to see that
all items are present. Inspect items to see that they are in good con-
dition and properly mounted or stowed.
736603 O-47-8 * 1 1 3 •
TM 9-801
45-46
TRUCK, 2 y2-TON, 6x6
(b) Weekly. Clean all tools and equipment of rust or dirt and
apply a preservative where necessary when possible. See that tools
with cutting edge are sharp and properly protected and that all items
are securely mounted or stowed.
NOTE: When services are completed be sure all inspection plates
are replaced securely.
Section XI
SECOND ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
46. SECOND ECHELON PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
SERVICES.
a. Regular scheduled maintenance inspections and services are
a preventive maintenance function of the using arms, and are the
responsibility of commanders of operating organizations.
(1) FREQUENCY. The frequency of the preventive maintenance
service outlined herein is considered a minimum requirement for
normal operation of vehicles. Under unusual operating conditions,
such as extreme temperatures, dusty or sandy terrain, it may be
necessary to perform certain maintenance services more frequently.
(2) FIRST ECHELON PARTICIPATION. The drivers should accom-
pany their vehicles and assist the mechanics, while periodic second
echelon preventive maintenance services are performed. Ordinarily,
the driver should present the vehicle for a scheduled preventive
maintenance service in a reasonably clean condition: that is, it should
be dry and not caked with mud or grease, to such an extent that in-
spection and servicing will be seriously hampered. However, the
vehicle should not be washed or wiped thoroughly clean, since certain
types of defects, such as cracks, leaks, and loose or shifted parts or
assemblies are more evident if the surfaces are slightly soiled or dusty.
(3) If instructions, other than those contained in the general
procedures in subparagraph (4) or the specific procedures in sub-
paragraph (5) which follows, are required for the correct performance
of a preventive maintenance service, or for correction of a deficiency,
other sections of this manual pertaining to the item involved, or a
designated individual in authority, should be consulted.
(4) GENERAL PROCEDURES. These general procedures are basic
instructions which are to be followed when performing the services

on the items listed in the specific procedures. NOTE: The second

echelon personnel must be thoroughly trained in these pro-
cedures, so that they will apply them automatically.
(a) When new or overhauled subassemblies are installed to cor-
rect deficiencies, care should be taken to see that they are clean,
correctly installed, properly lubricated and adjusted.
(6) When installing new lubricant retainer seals, a coating of the
•114•
TM 9-801
46
lubricant should be wiped over the sealing surface of the lip of the
seal. When the new seal is a leather seal, it should be soaked in
SAE 10 engine oil (warm if practicable) for at least 30 minutes. Then
the leather lip should be worked carefully by hand, before installing
the seal. The lip must not be scratched or marred.
(c) The general inspection of each item applies also to any sup-
porting member or connection, and usually includes a check to see
•whether or not the item is in good condition, correctly assembled,
secure, or excessively worn. The mechanic must be thoroughly trained
in the following explanations of these terms.
1. The inspection for "good condition" is usually an external
visual inspection to determine if the unit is damaged beyond safe
or serviceable limits. The term good condition is explained further
by the following terms: not bent or twisted, not chafed or burned,
not broken or cracked, not bare or frayed, not dented or collapsed,
not torn or cut.
2. The inspection of a unit to see that it is "correctly assembled"
is usually an external visual inspection, to see whether or not it is
in its normal assembled position in the vehicle.
3. The inspection of a unit to determine if it is "secure" is
usually an external visual examination, a wrench, hand-feel, or a
pry-bar check for looseness. Such an inspection should include any
brackets, lock washers, lock nuts, locking wires, or cotter pins used
in assembly.
4. "Excessively worn" will be understood to mean worn, close-to
or beyond serviceable limits, and likely to result in a failure if not
replaced before the next scheduled inspection.
(cf) Special Services. These are indicated by repeating the item
numbers in the columns which show the interval at which the serv-
ices are to be performed, and show that the parts, or assemblies, are
to receive certain mandatory services. For example, an item number
in one or both columns opposite a TIGHTEN procedure means
that the actual tightening of the object must be performed. The
special services include:
/. Adjust. Make all necessary adjustments in accordance with
the pertinent section of this manual.

2. Clean. Clean units of the vehicle with dry-cleaning solvent

to remove excess lubricant, dirt, and other foreign material. After
the parts are cleaned, rinse them in clean fluid and dry them thor-
oughly. Take care to keep the parts clean, until reassembled, and be
certain to keep cleaning fluid away from rubber or other material
that it would damage. Clean the protective grease coating from new
parts since this material is usually not a good lubricant.
3. Lubrication. This applies either to lubrication operations
that do not appear on the vehicle lubrication order, or to items that
do appear on such orders, but should be performed in connection
with the maintenance operations, if parts have been disassembled
for inspection or service.
4. Serve. This usually consists of performing special operations,
such as replenishing battery water, draining and refilling units with
oil, and changing or cleaning the oil and fuel filter or cartridge.
•us*
TM 9-801
46
TRUCK,
-TON, 6x6
5. Tighten. All tightening operations should be performed with
sufficient wrench torque, (force on the wrench handle), to tighten the
unit according to good mechanical practice. Use a torque-indicating
wrench, where specified. Do not overtighten, as this may strip threads
or cause distortion. Tightening will always be understood to include
the correct installation of lock washers, lock nuts, and cotter pins
provided to secure the tightening.
(e) When conditions make it difficult to perform the complete
preventive maintenance procedures at one time, they can sometimes
be handled in sections, planning to complete all operations within
the week, if possible. All available time at halts and in bivouac
areas must be utilized, if necessary to assure that maintenance
operations are completed. When limited by the tactical situation,
items with Special Services in the columns should be given first
consideration.
(/) The numbers of the preventive maintenance procedures that
follow are identical with those outlined on W.D., A.G.O. Form No.
461, which is the Preventive Maintenance Service Work Sheet for
Wheeled and Half-Track Vehicles. Certain items on the work sheet,
that do not apply to this vehicle, are not included in the procedures
in this manual. In general, the numerical sequence of items on the
work sheet is followed in the manual procedures, but in some in-
stances, there is deviation for conservation of the mechanics time
and effort.
(5) SPECIFIC PROCEDURES. The procedures for performing each
item in the 1000-mile (monthly) and 6000-mile (six-month) mainte-
nance procedures are described in the following chart. Each page of
the chart has two columns at its left edge corresponding to the
6000-mile and the 1000-mile maintenance respectively. Very often
it will be found that a particular procedure does not apply to both
scheduled maintenances. In order to determine which procedure to
follow, look down the column corresponding to the maintenance due,
and wherever an item number appears perform the operations indi-
cated opposite number.
ROAD TEST
NOTE: When the tactical situation does not permit

a full road test, perform those items which require
little or no movement of the vehicle. When a road
test is possible, it should be for preferably 5 miles
and not over 10 miles.
Before-Operation Service. Perform the Before-
Operation Service as described in paragraph 42.
Dash Instruments and Gages.
Oil Pressure Gage. Oil pressure should be 5
pounds at slow idle speed. CAUTION: Stop engine
if oil pressure is not indicated in 30 seconds.
Ammeter. Indicator may show a positive (+)
charge for a short period until generator restores to
battery, current used in starting engine. Time will
depend on condition of charge of battery and electrical
6000
Mile
Maint.
(six-
month)
1000
Mile
Maint.
(month-
ly)
•116•
TM 9-801
46
6000
Mile
Maint.
(rix-
month)
1000
Mile
Maint.
(month-
ly)
load carried. With battery fully charged and when
regulator unit is cut-in, ammeter may show zero or
only slight charge. Stop engine and investigate any
discharge (—) reading with engine running and lights
and accessories turned off.
Temperature Gage. Reading should increase
gradually during warm-up period to normal range,
160°F to 220°F CAUTION: Do not move vehicle
until engine has reached at least 140°F. Maxi-
mum safe operating temperature 220°F (205°F
at high altitudes).
Fuel Gage. Should register amount of fuel in
tank.
Speedometer. Speedometer should indicate vehi-
cle speed and odometer should register total accumu-
lating mileage.
Horns, Mirrors, and Windshield Wipers. If tac-
tical situation permits, test horn for proper operation
and tone. Examine rear vision mirror and wipers to
see that they are in good condition, secure, and that
wiper blades contact glass evenly and operate through
their full range.
Brakes (Service and Parking, Feel, Side Pull,
Noise and Chatter). Operate brakes at various speeds
during road test.
Service Brakes. Apply foot pedal sufficiently to

stop vehicle in minimum distance and observe effec-

tiveness, any pull to one side, unusual noise, chatter,
and pedal travel.
Parking Brake. Stop vehicle on incline, apply
parking brake and note if it holds vehicle. Note if
lever has sufficient reserve after application and that
pawl and sector lock applied brakes securely.
Clutch (Free-travel, Drag, Noise, Chatter, Grab
and Slip). Note pedal free-travel (par. 150). Check
clutch for drag when shifting into low gear. Note
any unusual nose when pedal is depressed which may
indicate defective release bearing. With transmission
in gear, note any tendency of clutch to chatter, grab
when clutch is engaged, or slippage when fully en-
gaged under load.
Transmission and Transfer Case (Lever Action,
Declutching, Vibration and Noise). Levers should
move into each gear range position easily and quietly.
Note any vibration that may indicate loose mounting
or noise that may indicate damaged, excessively worn,
or inadequately lubricated parts. On winch or hoist
•117•
TM 9-801
46
6000
Mile
Maim.
(six-
month)
1000
Mile
Maint.
(month-
ly)
10
11
13
14
10
11
13
14
TRUCK,
-TON, 6x6
equipped vehicle, stop vehicle, engage power hoist to
see that it also shifts easily and stays in gear when in
operation.
Steering (Free Play, Bind, Wander, Shimmy,
Side Pull, Column and Wheel). With vehicle in
motion, observe whether there is any indication of
looseness or binding. Note any tendency to wander,
shimmy or pull to one side. See that steering column
and wheel are in good condition and secure.
Engine (Idle, Acceleration, Power, Noise and
Governed Speed). Observe engine operating charac-
teristics for following conditions:
Unusual Noises. Listen for knocks and rattles as
the engine is accelerated, decelerated and while it is
under both light and heavy loads.

Acceleration and Power. Operate the engine at

varying speeds in all gear ratios, and note if vehicle
has normal pulling power and acceleration. Note any
tendency to stall while shifting. A slight ping during
fast acceleration is normal. Continuing or heavy ping
may indicate early timing, or heavy accumulation of
carbon.
Governed Speed. With the vehicle in gear, slowly
accelerate engine and observe speedometer reading.
See if vehicle reaches but does not exceed, the gov-
erned speed specified on caution plate.
Unusual Noises (Attachments, Body, Cab, and
Wheels). Listen for any noise that may indicate loose
or damaged attachments mounted on vehicle, loose
cab or body mountings, floor plates, doors, windshield
or accessories. Listen particularly for indications of
loose wheel mountings.
Brake Booster (Hydrovac) Operation. Whenever
brakes are applied, observe if the hydrovac unit ap-
pears to assist in the application satisfactorily. After
stopping vehicle listen at hydrovac air cleaner unit
for air movement, when brakes are applied, indicating
unit is operating.
Temperatures (Brake Drums, Hubs, Axles, Trans-
mission, Transfer). Cautiously hand-feel all brake
drums and wheel hubs to see if they are abnormally
hot. Inspect axle housing, transmission and transfer
case for indications of overheating.
Leaks (Engine Oil, Water, and Fuel). After road
test is completed, look under vheicle and in engine
compartment, for indications of engine oil, coolant,

TM 9-801
46
8000
Mile
Maim,
(six-
month).
1000
Mile
Maint.
month-
ly)
17
17
52
52
52
48
straps, then rest engine hood against the wind-
shield. Engine and accessories will then be more
accessible to perform maintenance operations.
RAISE VEHICLE AND BLOCK SAFELY
Unusual Noises (Engine, Belts, Accessories,
Transmission, Transfer, Propeller Shafts and
U-joints, Axles and Wheel Bearings). With engine
running, observe as follows:
Engine, Belt and Accessories. Accelerate and
decelerate the engine momentarily and listen for any
unnusual noise in these units that might indicate
damaged, loose, or excessively worn engine parts,
drive belt or accessories.
Transmission, Transfer, Propeller Shafts and
U-joints, Axles, and Wheel Bearings. With the
transmission in an intermediate gear, and front driving
axles engaged, operate these units at a constant, mod-
erate speed and observe all propeller shafts and wheels
for vibration and runout, and for vibrations in other
units which may indicate looseness or unbalance. Slow

running wheels may indicate tight brakes or wheel

bearings. Also be sure to localize, correct, or report
any noise noted during road test.
Rear Wheels (Bearings, Seals, Drive Flanges,
Nuts and Cap Screws). Inspect and service as follows:
Wheels. Inspect wheels to see that they are in
good condition and secure.
Bearings and Seals. Check for loose wheel bearing
adjustment. Revolve wheels and listen for evidence
of dry or damaged bearings. Inspect around flanges
and brake supports for lubricant leaks.
Drive Flanges and Nuts or Cap Screws. Note
whether they are in good condition and if nuts are
tightened securely.
Clean. Disassemble rear wheel bearings and oil
seals. Clean thoroughly in solvent and examine bear-
ing cups and cones to see that they are in good con-
dition; if machined surfaces they contact are in good
condition and that there is no excessive wear.
Lubrication. When all of the related items are to
the point where the wheel bearings are to be rein-
stalled, lubricate the bearings (par. 200).
Adjust. After lubricating the wheel bearings, re-
assemble the hub-and-drum assemblies into place and
adjust the wheel bearings (par. 201 or 202).
Rear Brakes (Drums, Supports, Cylinders and
Cams). Remove rear wheels and drums and inspect
and service as follows:
On 6000-mile maintenance the several wheel bear-
ing and brake items up to 52 are group services and
•119•
TM 9-801
46
6000
Mile
1000
Mile
Maint.
(month-
ly)
Maint.
(six-
month)
49
49
49
49
overlap. Perform in best order for economy of time
and orderly reassembly.
Drums and Supports. Clean dirt and grease from
drums and supports (dust shields), keeping solvent
away from linings. Examine drums and supports to
see that they are in good condition, securely mounted
and if drums are excessively worn or scored.
Wheel Cylinders. Note condition and mounting
of wheel cylinders. Examine cylinder for corrosion and
leaks. Make certain that adjusting screws and metal
end covers are not corroded and screws frozen. If
adjusting screws are rusted, wipe a thin film of water
pump or chassis lubricant on screw threads close to
end cover, work screw in and out of end cover until
it is free. If metal cover and/or adjusting screws are
frozen, replace wheel cylinder assembly. If leaks exist
at end cover, do not remove covers, but replace
wheel cylinder assembly.
Cams. Make certain that adjusting pin cams are
secure on adjusting pins and that pins work freely.
Examine pin springs, brake shoe return springs,
articulating links and pins, anchor pins and locks for

good condition, secure mountings, and damage.

Tighten. Tighten brake support (dust shield) and
anchor plate cap screws and hub to drum nuts se-
curely. Make certain drum mounting on hub is secure.
Rear Brake Shoes (Linings, Anchors, and
Springs). Examine linings through inspection holes,
to see if they are so worn that rivet heads may con-
tact drums within next 1000 miles of operation. If
vehicle has been operated in deep water, mud, or
loose sand, remove one right rear wheel (brake drum)
and examine lining for damage. If this lining must be
replaced, remove all wheels and drums, check brakes,
and service if necessary (par. 184).
Adjust. Perform brake adjustment if necessary
(par. 181). While rear wheels are removed, check
linings to see if they are in good condition, tightly
secured to brake shoes, in good wearing contact with
drums, free of dirt or lubricant and not excessively
worn. Also see that shoes are in good condition, prop-
erly secured to anchors, guides and retracting springs
and that springs have sufficient tension to return shoes
properly to released position. Thickness of lining at
most worn point should be enough for at least 1000
miles of service before rivet heads are likely to contact
drums.
Clean. Clean all dirt and grease from linings with
wire brush, cloth or compressed air.
Adjust. After items 48, 49, 52, 54 and 60 are com-
•120•
TM 9-801
46
6000
Mile
Maint.
month)
60
60
60
60
53
53
54
54
47
'nto
Mile
Maint.
(month-
ly)
60
53
54
54
47
pleted, adjust shoes by method described in para-
graph 181.
Front Wheels (Bearings, Seals, Flanges, Axle End
Play and Nuts and Cap Screws). Inspect front
wheels, bearings, seals, drive flanges, and nuts and
cap screws in same manner as in item 52 for similar
rear wheel items.
Clean. Disassemble, clean, and inspect the front
wheel bearings and oil seals in the same manner as
described in item 52, taking care to check the U-joint
end play as the drive flanges are removed so that the
end play adjustment may be made conveniently.
Lubrication. Apply in same manner as described

in item 52.
Adjust. Adjust wheel bearings in same manner as
described in item 52 and adjust brakes as described
in item 49.
Front Brakes (Hose, Drums, Supports, Cylin-
ders, Cams). Inspect front brake hose and drums
externally to see that they are in good condition, that
hose is properly supported, securely connected and
not chafing or leaking.
Remove front wheels and inspect and service as
follows:
Drums and Supports. Clean and inspect in same
manner as in item 48.
Cylinders. Inspect in same manner as in item 48.
Cams. Inspect in same manner as in item 48.
Front Brake Shoes (Linings, Anchors, and
Springs). Inspect in same manner as in item 49.
Adjust. Adjust by minor method if necessary.
With front wheels removed, inspect shoes, linings,
anchors and springs in same manner as in item 49 for
6000-mile service.
Clean. Clean in same manner as in item 49.
Adjust. Adjust in same manner as in item 49 after
subsequent related items to 60 inclusive are completed.
Refer to paragraphs 181 and 183.
Tires and Rims (Valve Stems and Caps, Condi-
tion, Direction, Matching, Spare Carrier). Inspect
as follows:
Valve Stems and Caps. Observe whether all valve
stems are in good condition and in correct position.
Replace missing valve caps. Do not tighten with

TM 9-801
46
6000
Mile
Maint.
(six-
month)
47
50
51
51
51
51
55
1000
Mile
Malnt.
(month-
ly)
50
51
51
55
cupping, feather edges, and one-side wear. Remove
tires worn thin at center of tread (or other unserv-
iceable tires) and exchange for new or retreaded tires.
Any mechanical deficiencies causing such conditions
should be determined and corrected or reported.
Change wheel positions of tires with irregular wear to
even up the wear. Front tires, worn irregularly, should
be moved to rear-wheel positions.
Direction. Directional tires and non-directional
tires should not be installed on the same vehicle.
Directional tires on rear wheels should be mounted
so that the "V" of the chevron will point down when
viewed from the front. Directional tires on front
wheels, ordinarily be mounted so that the "V" of the
chevrons will point up when viewed from the front.

Matching. With the tires properly inflated, to 55-

pounds (cool), inspect them to see if they are matched
according to overall circumference and type of tread
(par. 198).
Spare Tire Carriers. See if spare tire carriers are
in good condition and secure.
Rims. All rims and their lock rings or flanges should
be in good condition and secure.
Tighten. Tighten all wheel rim flange or lug nuts
securely.
Serve. With the tires properly inflated, measure
the overall circumference of all tires including spares.
Select the tires to be mounted on duals or on driving
axle, so that they will not have differences in overall
circumference exceeding the %-inch specified in cur-
rent directives and bulletins. Mount all dual tires
with the larger tire outside.
NOTE: The spares must be matched properly
and mounted for use on one of the road wheels
at intervals not exceeding ninety days. A con-
venient time to do this is during these mainte-
nance services.
Torque Rods. Inspect rods to see that they are in
good condition, correctly assembled and secure.
Rear Spring Seats and Bearings. Inspect to see
that spring seats are in good condition, secure, and
not leaking lubricant.
Adjust. Adjust spring seat bearings as described
in paragraph 211 b.
Lubrication. Lubricate spring seat and bearings
as described in Section VIII, Lubrication.

TM 9-801
6000
Mile
1000
Mile
Maint.
(month-
Maim.
(six-
month)
55
55
55
56
56
56
57
57
57
58
58
46
dition. Look particularly for cracks around steering
arms. See that outside knuckle felt seals and seal
flanges are in good condition and secure. Remove
lubrication plug and examine sample of lubricant to
see if it appears to be contaminated.
Clean. Remove constant velocity U-joint assembly.
Wash in dry-cleaning solvent and without disassembly
of U-joint, inspect parts to see that they are in good
condition and not excessively worn. Pay particular
attention to U-joint washers, balls and races, axle
splines, flanges and pivot bearings.
Lubrication. Pack new lubricant well into con-
stant velocity U-joint until it fills all space between
balls, cages, and races. Reassemble steering knuckle
taking care to replace any unserviceable lubricant

retainer seals, or gaskets.

Adjust. Use every precaution to reinstall shims
and spacers in the original position from which they
were removed at disassembly to insure correct pivot
bearing and axle end play adjustment. See paragraph
167.
Front Springs (Clips, Leaves, U-bolts, Hangers
and Shackles). See that they are in good condition,
correctly assembled, and secure. Spring clips and bolts
should be in place; spring leaves should not be shifted
out of their correct position. Note if the deflection of
both springs is normal and approximately the same.
Test the hangers and bolts for excessive wear by
means of a pry bar.
Tighten. Tighten all spring U-bolts securely and
uniformly.
Steering (Arms, Tie Rod, Drag Link, Pitman
Arm, Column and Wheel). Make certain that these
items are in good condition, correctly and securely
assembled, and mounted. Examine steering gear case
for leaks. Test steering assembly mounting for loose-
ness. If evident, adjust steering gear mounting (par.
204). Examine pitman arm for distortion and loose-
ness.
Tighten. If pitman arm is loose, tighten (par. 205).
Examine tie rod, drag link, and steering arms for
damage, looseness, and wear. If drag link adjustment
is required, adjust (par. 207). Tighten steering arm
stud nuts. CAUTION: Loosen the steering column
bracket at instrument panel when tightening
the steering housing mounting nuts.

TM 9-801
46
6000
Mile
Maint.
(six-
month)
58
61
62
62
73
73
74
63
84
1000
Mile
Maint.
(month-
ly)
61
62
73
74
63
84
absorber bodies are in good condition, secure to the
frame, and not leaking. Make certain that links are
not damaged or bent.
Serve. Add shock absorber fluid to shock absorbers
as described in paragraph 213.
Front Axle (Seal, Vent and Alinement). (If front
axle appears to be out of line, measure distance from
front spring eye bolt to center of axle spring pad on
each side. Distance should be equal within %").
Inspect axle housing to see that it is in good condition
and not leaking. Examine pinion shaft seal for leaks.

Clean. Clean axle housing vent thoroughly.

Front Propeller Shaft (Joints, Alinement, Seals
and Flanges). See that these items are in good con-
dition, correctly and securely assembled and mounted;
that the U-joints are properly alined with each other
and are not excessively worn; that the slip joint is
free, not excessively worn, and well lubricated, and
that the seals on the U-joints and slip joint do not
leak.
Tighten. Tighten all U-joint assembly and com-
panion flange bolts securely.
Rear Propeller Shafts. Inspect in same manner as
in item 62.
Tighten. Draw up all U-joint and companion
flange bolts securely.
Center Bearing (Pillow Block) (Seals and Mount-
ings). Examine pillow block (center bearing) for any
excessive end play (par. 177); if evident, replace
pillow block assembly. See that it is adequately lub-
ricated and that seals are not leaking, and that the
mountings are secure. If leaks exist at seals, replace
pillow block assembly. Tighten pillow block mount-
ings securely.
Engine (Mountings, Radio Suppression Bond
Straps). They should be in good condition, securely
mounted, and connected. Examine both front and
rear engine mountings and note if insulators are
deteriorating or separating from metal backing. If
the mounting bolts are loose, tighten them properly.
Take care not to overtighten any rubber insulator
type mounting. Remove oil or grease from rubber

TM 9-801
46
6000
Mile
Main).
(six-
month)
64
64
65
65
66
67
67
68
1000
Mile
Maint.
(month-
ly)
64
65
66
67
68
the tail pipe to see that it is securely clamped to the
muffler, properly supported, and not clogged. On
water tank equipped vehicles, be sure exhaust by-pass
valve control mechanism for tank heater box operates
easily and properly; that connections, heater box and
mountings are all in good condition and secure, and
that insulation is intact.
Hand Brake (Pawl and Sector, Linkage, Drum,
and Lining). Examine condition of lining on brake
band. Make certain that it is not excessively worn,
oil soaked, and that it is in good condition.
Adjust. Examine band to drum clearance (anchor
0.010-0.015 in., top 0.020 in., bottom 0.020 in.). If

excessive, adjust (par. 193).

Clutch Pedal (Free-travel, Linkage, and Return
Spring). Check pedal free-travel (refer to par. 150).
Examine and make certain that pedal is securely
mounted on shaft, that clutch operating linkage is in
good condition, secure, and not excessively worn. See
that return spring has proper tension to bring pedal
to correct release position. Make certain that return
spring bracket is not damaged and is secure.
Adjust. Set pedal-travel at 2^ inches (par. 150).
Brake Pedal Free Travel (Linkage and Return
Spring). Examine all linkage for condition, make sure
that it is secure, and no excessive wear exists at fric-
tion points. Be sure return spring has tension to bring
pedal to correct release position. Check brake pedal
to toe board clearance (^ to 1 inch). If clearance is
not correct, adjust as described in paragraph 186.
Brake Master Cylinder (Fluid Level, Leaks and
Switch). Inspect master cylinder to see that it is in
good condition; securely mounted and connected; that
it does not leak; that boot is properly installed -and
not damaged, and that stop light switch is securely
mounted and connected.
Serve. Clean top area of master cylinder. Remove
filler plug. Examine fluid level of master cylinder. Add
fluid to correct level, if necessary. Make certain that
vent hole in filler plug is clean.
Hydrovac (Air Cleaner, Hose, and Cylinder). In-
spect for fluid leaks and make certain that unit is
securely attached to frame side member. Examine
flexible hose connections. Make sure that flexible hose

TM 9-801
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68
71
72
75
77
79
79
1000
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month-
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68
71
72
75
77
79
assembly (par. 179).
Clean and Service. Remove Hydrovac air cleaner,
Lubrication.
Lubrication Lubricate as directed in Section VIII,
Lubrication.
Vacuum Check Valve (Leaks and Deposits). Test
vacuum check valve for leaks and examine for dam-
age. Disassemble and clean parts thoroughly, remove
scale deposits from valve and valve seat. Examine
valve seat in body for pitting and corrosion that may
cause an imperfect seat. Slight imperfections may be
removed with fine steel wool.

Valve Stem. Inspect rubber seal attached to valve

stem. Replace with new valve assembly, if deteriora-
tion is evident. Inspect the stem and stem guides in
cap and body. Stem must be free in guides. Assemble
and reinstall, or replace with new assembly.
Transmission (Mounting, Seals, Power Take-off,
Linkage). Observe if transmission case, including
power take-off, is in good condition, securely mounted
and inspect for lubricant leaks at seals and gaskets.
Examine control linkage and shift mechanism for
damage or excessive wear. Examine strut rod for
looseness. If necessary, adjust according to para-
graph 155.
Transfer (Mountings. Linkage, Seals, Vent). See
that case is in good condition, securely mounted, that
control linkage, transmission and declutching shift
mechanism is securely connected and not damaged.
Look for evidence of lubrication leaks at seals and
gaskets. Clean vent passage if clogged. Draw up all
external assembly and mounting nuts securely.
Rear Axle (Pinion End Play, Seals, Vent and
Alinement). Inspect in the same manner as in item
61 for front axle.
Clean. Clean axle housing vent.
Rear Springs (Clips, Leaves, and U-bolts). Exam-
ine spring leaves for damage. Make certain that no
leaves are broken or shifted, that spring clips are tight,
and that spring is in good condition. Check spring
U-bolts and spring seat clamp studs for tightness.
Examine springs for sagging condition. Note if de-
flection of both springs is normal and approximately

TM 9-801
46
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Maint.
month)
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81
82
82
83
25
25
18
1000
Mile
Maint.
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ly)
80
81
82
83
25
18
must be loosened during this operation (par. 221).
Tighten all loose cargo, tank or dump body mountings
securely.
Frame (Side and Crossmembers). Inspect frame,
brackets, side members, and crossmembers to see
that they are in good condition, secure, and correctly
alined. If the frame appears out of line, check aline-
ment (par. 214), and report condition.
Wiring, Conduits and Grommets. Observe these
items underneath the vehicle to see that they are in
good condition, properly supported, connected and
secure.
Fuel Tank, Fittings, and Lines. Inspect fuel tank

to see that it is in good condition and securely mounted.

Examine fuel tank and lines for leaks. Remove gas
tank cap. Make certain that gasket in cap is in good
condition, vents are clean, and that valve in cap is
free. See that'filler neck is in good condition and that
cap fits securely.
Fuel Tank Drain Plug. Remove fuel tank drain
plug and drain off accumulated water and dirt in
bottom of tank. Drain only until fuel runs clear.
Use necessary precautions against fire.
Brake Lines (Fittings and Hose). Examine all lines,
fittings, and hydraulic hose under vehicle to see that
they are in good condition, securely connected and
supported so lines or hose will not chafe against other
vehicle parts. Note if flexible.
Radiator (Core, Shell, Mountings, Hose, .Cap
and Gasket, Antifreeze Record, Water Bypass
Tube). Inspect all applicable items to see that they
are in good condition, secure, and not leaking. Ex-
amine condition of coolant to see if it is so contami-
nated that cooling system should be cleaned. If
cleaning of cooling system is necessary, precede only
according to current directives regarding proper pro-
cedures, cleaner, neutralizer and inhibitor, paragraph
107. Clean all insects, dirt or grease deposits from
core air passages and inspect for bent cooling fins.
CAUTION: Use only a suitably shaped piece of
wood or blunt instrument to straighten fins. If
antifreeze is in use, test its protective value and
record in space provided on back of work sheet,
Form No. 461.

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21
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1000
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20
31
TRUCK, 2Va -TON, 6x6
coolant, or compression leaks around studs, cap screws,
and gaskets.
CAUTION: Cylinder head bolts should not be
tightened unless there is definite evidence of
leaks. Check all bolts with torque wrench. If tighten-
ing is necessary, tighten cylinder head bolts in proper
sequence (fig. 64, par. 79) to 70 ft-lb torque.
CAUTION: Always recheck valve stem to rocker
clearance after tightening cylinder head bolts.
Valve Mechanism (Clearance, Lubrication, Cover
Gaskets). Adjust valve clearance only if noisy or if
engine performance indicates a necessity. Correct
clearances are: Intake 0.012, and exhaust 0.016 inch,
at operating temperature. Be sure bond strap from
valve cover to dash is in good condition and tightly
connected.
Adjust. Adjust clearances. Intake 0.012 inch, ex-
haust 0.016 inch at operating temperature. Examine
valve push rods, rocker arms, springs, retainers and

keys, to see that they are in good condition, correctly

assembled, secure, and that the valve mechanism is
receiving adequate lubrication. Replace unserviceable
cover gasket.
Spark Plugs (Gaps and Deposits). Remove all
plugs and examine for broken insulators, excessive
carbon or oxide deposits, and electrodes burned thin.
Clean plugs with abrasive type cleaner. Set plug gaps
to 0.026 inch by bending only grounded electrodes.
NOTE: Do not install plugs until item 21 has
been performed.
Compression Test. Test compression at cranking
speed with all spark plugs removed (par. 76 c).
Readings in any one engine should be 100 pounds or
more. Total variation should not be more than 10
pounds. Record compression pressures in space pro-
vided on back of work sheet, Form No. 461.
Distributor (Cap, Rotor, Shaft, Advance Units).
Observe whether distributor body and external attach-
ments are in good condition and secure. Examine other
parts as follows:
Cap, Rotor, and Points. Remove and clean cap.
Inspect cap, rotor, and breaker points, make certain
that they are in good condition, secure and clean.
Examine closely for cracks in cap and rotor, corrosion
of terminals and connections, and burned rotor bar or
contact points. See that points are alined and in
correct adjustment (0.018 in.) when wide open (par.
88).
•128*
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1000
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32
CAUTION: Do not remove distributor housings.
Before cleaning distributor, remove wick, lubri-
cation cup, condenser, and primary terminal.
Replace parts after cleaning distributor. If
breaker points are pitted, burned or worn excessively,
replace. If points are burned, replace condenser. When
cleaning points, use a fine file, flint paper (2 '0), or
hone (never use emery cloth) and blow out filings
with compressed air.
Shaft. Examine shaft, feeling for excessive wear
in shaft or bushings.
Centrifugal Advance. Install rotor on shaft and
test distributor governor physically for normal range
of movement permitted by mechanism. Note if it
returns to original position when released without
hang-up or binding.
Lubrication. Lubricate cam surfaces, breaker arm
pin, grease cup, and wick (sec. VIII, Lubrication).
Coil and Wiring. Inspect coil and all ignition wiring
including shielding or conduits to see that they are
in good condition, clean, securely connected and
properly mounted. Be sure resistor-suppressors on
spark plug and coil to distributor wires are secure and
not scorched or damaged. Inspect low voltage wiring

in engine compartment in same manner.

Oil Filter and Lines. Inspect filter and external
engine oil lines to see that they are in good condition,
secure, and not leaking.
Clean and Serve. Remove filter drain plug and
drain off any accumulated dirt and sludge. If a filter
element change is due or if condition indicates it is
necessary, replace element (par. 81).
Water Pump, Fan and Shroud. Inspect pump to
see that it is in good condition and that blades and
hub are secure. Loosen drive belt and examine fan
hub and shaft for bearing wear. See that shroud is in
good condition, secure, and alined so as not to inter-
fere with fan blades.
Tighten. Tighten water pump, fan and shroud
assembly and mounting nuts.
Crankcase Breather and Filler Cap. Inspect crank-
case breather for condition. Remove oil reservoir and
element, and service (sec. VIII, Lubrication). Exam-
ine filler cap gasket for good condition.
Clean. Disassemble and clean crankcase ventilation
valve (par. 82).
Air Cleaner. Inspect carbureter air cleaner to see that
736603 O - 47 . 9 • '1 29 •
24
26
26
35
35
34
24
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38
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33
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27
1000
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38
29
33
27
it is in good condition, securely mounted and con-
nected and not leaking. Remove reservoir and element,
clean in solvent, dry, fill reservoir to proper level with
new or clean used engine oil and reassemble. Be sure
gaskets are in place and all joints and air horn con-
nections tight (par. 99).
Fuel Filter and Lines. Examine filter to see that it
is in good condition, securely mounted and connected
and not leaking. Examine connecting lines for damage
and leaks.
Clean. Close fuel shut-off and remove filter sedi-
ment bowl and element. Wash clean in solvent and
reassemble (par. 98). Turn on fuel supply and recheck

for leaks.
Fuel Pump. Inspect pump to see that it is in good
condition, securely mounted and not leaking. Remove
sediment bowl, screen, and clean and reinstall (par. 97).
Fuel pump pressure test to be performed after item
40 is completed.
Check fuel pump pressure (par. 97).
Drive Belt and Pulleys. Observe generator and fan
drive belt for evidence of fraying condition, excessive
wear, and deterioration. Inspect all drive pulleys and
hubs to see that they are in good condition and se-
curely mounted.
Adjust. Adjust drive belt to have J^-inch finger
pressure deflection. See paragraph 108.
Manifolds and Gaskets. Examine manifold stud
nuts .for looseness. Carefully tighten manifold stud
nuts if necessary, using torque wrench to 15-20 foot-
pounds torque. Check heat control valve for proper
climatic setting. Examine exhaust pipe flange mount-
ing for looseness. Tighten flange bolts, if necessary.
Examine for evidence of cracks in manifolds, usually
indicated by carbon streaks, damaged gaskets, or
evidence of exhaust leaks exist. Examine manifold for
alinement and aline if necessary (par. 78). Tighten
flange bolts if necessary.
Tighten. Carefully check and tighten all manifold
assembly stud nuts and mounting nuts to 15-20 foot-
pounds torque, using a torque wrench.
Generator, Cranking Motor and Switch. Inspect
generator, cranking motor and cranking motor switch
to see that they are in good condition, securely

TM
9-801
46
6000
Mile
1000
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Maint.
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ly)
Mainl.
(six-
month)
36
36
23
23
39
39
40
40
41
41
tors and brushes to see that they are in good con-
dition; free in holders and have sufficient spring ten-
sion, and that brush connecting wires are secure and
not chafing.
Clean. Blow out commutator end of generator and
cranking motor with compressed air. If commutators
are dirty, clean only with flint paper 2 - 0 placed over
end of suitable piece of wood and again blow out with
air.
Tighten. Tighten cranking motor mounting bolts
securely. See that radio noise suppression condensers
on cranking motor and generator are in good condition
and tight.
Carbureter (Choke, Throttle, Linkage and Gov-
ernor). See that these units are in good condition,

correctly assembled, and securely installed; that the

carbureter does not leak; that the control linkage,
including the choke and throttle shaft, is not exces-
sively worn; that the choke valve opens fully when
the control is in its released position; that the throttle
valve opens fully when the accelerator is fully de-
pressed, and that the governor is secure and properly
sealed.
Crankcase (Oil Level). Check crankcase oil level and
add as needed. If an oil change is due, or condition
of oil indicates the necessity, drain crankcase, clean
drain plug, and refill to correct level with fresh speci-
fied oil (sec. VIII, Lubrication).
Cranking Motor (Action, Noise, and Speed). Start
engine. Note operation of cranking motor. Check for
excessive operation noise and adequate cranking speed.
As soon as the engine starts, it is advisable to note
whether the oil pressure gage and ammeter readings
are satisfactory.
Leaks (Engine Oil, Fuel and Water). With engine
running, check all points of oil, fuel and cooling
system for leaks. Examine crankcase, valve cover,
timing gear cover, and clutch housing for oil leaks.
Trace any leaks found to their source and correct or
report them. Stop engine and after 15 minutes time
allowed for engine oil to drain back into crankcase,
check crankcase for proper oil level and replenish if
necessary.
Ignition Timing (Advance). With the engine
running at slow idle and timing light connected,
check the ignition timing (par. 87). Also note whether

TM 9-801
46
6000
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Maint.
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month)
month-
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42
42
22
22
22
22
22
43
43
43
86
86
87
87
automatic controls advance the timing as engine is
accelerated gradually.
Adjust. Adjust the ignition timing (par. 87).
Engine and Vacuum Test.
Engine Idle. Adjust carbureter as described in
paragraph 94.
Vacuum Test. Take manifold reading of engine
as described in paragraph 76.
Battery (Cables, Hold Downs, Carrier, Record
Gravity, and Voltage). Inspect battery case for
cracks or leaks. Clean battery thoroughly. Inspect

cables, terminals, bolts, boxes, and hold downs for

condition and looseness. Test specific gravity, voltage
(par. 120) and record on W.D. A.G.O. Form No. 461.
Test. Perform high rate discharge test according
to instructions for condition which accompany test
instrument and record voltage on W.D. A.G.O. Form
No. 461. Cell variation should not be more than 30
percent. Note: Specific gravity must be above 1.225
to make this test.
Serve. Bring electrolyte to proper level by adding
distilled or clean water. Clean battery cable terminals,
terminal bolts and nuts, and battery boxes and grease
lightly. Inspect bolts for serviceability. Tighten ter-
minals and hold down carefully to avoid damage to
battery.
Regulator Unit (Connections, Voltage, Current,
and Cut-out). Inspect regulator unit to see that it
is in good condition, securely mounted, and con-
nected and clean. Examine radio noise suppression
filters in battery, armature and field circuits, and con-
densers (4) in light circuit for good condition and tight
connections.
Test. Connect the low-voltage-circuit tester and
observe whether the voltage regulator, current regu-
lator, and cut-out control the generator out-put
properly.
Toe-in and Turning Stops. Use toe-in gage to
determine whether adjustment on split and banjo
type axles is within Jte-iNe incn limits. See that wheel
turning stops are present, secure, and tack welded.
Turn front wheels fully in both directions and see

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Maint.
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87
89
93
94
95
96
1000
Milt
Maint.
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ly)
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93
94
95
96
condition, correctly assembled, and secure. See that
clutch moves freely on shaft and latches securely;
that drag brake functions properly and is not damaged
or excessively worn. Inspect automatic brake to see
that lining is secure, not excessively worn, and that
spring and adjusting nut is properly assembled. Ex-
amine drive shaft universal joints for excessive wear
and looseness. Make certain that slip joint is free,
not excessively worn, and well lubricated. Make
certain that correct shear pin is in place and joint is
free on shaft. Remove any obstructions that may have
become entangled on drive shaft. Inspect cable for
winding on drum, and lubrication. Make certain that
cable is attached to tow hooks securely. Check safety
collar clearance (par. 24). Clearance is }/% inch.

Lubrication. Check oil level and condition in

worm gear case. Use engine oil. Lubricate the winch
clutch, the shaft upon which it slides, and its operating
arm. As lubricant is applied, move the clutch back
and forth several times to make sure that it is free.
Clean and Service. Unwind cable and inspect for
broken or frayed strands, flat or rusty spots, and kinks.
Clean entire length with cloth saturated in thin oil
or kerosene. As cable is rewound, apply a coating of
clean engine or gear oil evenly; if worm gear housing
oil change is due or condition of oil indicates necessity,
drain worm gear housing, and fill to correct level with
specified oil as described in section VIII, Lubrication.
Tractor to Trailer Wiring Connector. Examine
wiring connector to make certain that it is in good
condition and not damaged.
Front Bumper, Tow Hooks, and Brush Guard.
See that they are in good condition, secure, and that
.radiator is not obstructed. NOTE: Reinstall and secure
hood side panels, if removed. Attach hood bracket
and bond strap. Lower and secure hood.
Hoods and Fasteners. Inspect engine hood (cover)
on cab, to see that it is in good condition, and that
fasteners operate properly and hold hood securely.
Front Fenders and Running Boards. Examine
fenders and running boards to see that they are in
good condition and securely mounted.
Cab (Doors, Hardware, Glass, Seats and Trim,
Floor Boards, Ventilator, and Map Compart-
ment). Inspect these items to see that they are in
good condition and secure; that the ventilator door

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46
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Maim,
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98
91
91
92
100
103
99
101
1000
Mile
Maint.
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98
91
92
100
103
99
101
and windshield operate properly, that doors are alined
in their openings. Engage the bumpers and strikers
and latch properly in closed position (closed type cabs).
Open Type Cab. Examine cab tarpaulin top, back
curtain, upper and lower side curtain assemblies, for
damage. Make certain that straps, locks, tie ropes,
are in good condition and not frayed, torn, or dam-
aged and that they are secure.
Circuit Breakers, Fuses, Junction Blocks. Locate
these units in low voltage circuits, and inspect them
to see that they are in jgood condition, clean, and

securely connected or mounted.

Lamps (Lights) (Head, Tail, Body, Stop and
Blackout). Operate all switches and note if lamps
respond. Include stop and blackout lamps. See that
foot switch controls head lamp beams properly and
that beams are aimed so as not to blind oncoming
traffic. Examine all lights to see that they are in good
condition and securely mounted and clean lenses.
Adjust. Adjust lamp unit beams as described in
paragraph 121.
Safety Reflectors. See that they are all present, in
good condition, clean and secure.
Body (Side Panels, Tail Gate and Chains, Floor,
Skid Strips, Sockets, Bows, Tarpaulins, Cur-
tains, Troop Seats, Stowage Compartments, and
Water Tank). Examine all applicable items to see
that they are in good condition, correctly assembled,
and secured. See that any hinges and latches are ade-
quately lubricated, that curtains and tarpaulins are
in good condition and properly fastened. On tank
equipped vehicles, inspect for looseness, leaks, or dam-
age. See that filler covers and drain plugs and cocks
seat properly and lock securely.
Paint and Markings. Examine the paint of the entire
vehicle to see that it is in good condition. Pay par-
ticular attention to any bright spots in the finish
that might cause glare or reflection. Inspect vehicle
markings and identification for legibility, including
identification plates and their mountings as furnished.
Rear Splash Guards. Examine rear splash guards for
damage and make certain that they are securely

TM 9-801
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month)
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90
104
85
131
1000
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131
properly; are adequately lubricated; and if lock pin is
present and securely attached by chain. Pay particular
attention for broken spring or worn draw bar.
Hoist (Mounting, Drive, Controls, Pump, Lines,
and Cylinder). Raise the body with the hoist and
note whether these items are in good condition, cor-
rectly assembled, and secure; whether the hoist, con-
trols or any lift linkage are excessively worn, and if
the pump, lines, or cylinder are leaking. Stop the en-
fine with body up and note any tendency of the body
to drop. When lowering the body, see that it lowers
gully and that the guides aline the body properly with
the frame.
Serve. Fill the hoist cylinders with the specified
grade of oil, paragraph 246 or 247, taking care to
leave the filler-plug loose until the body has .been
raised and lowered at least twice; then tighten it
securely. While the body is raised, lubricate any
grease fittings and apply a few drops of oil to the pin

joints of all lifting and pump-control mechanisms.

Tighten. Tighten all hoist mounting and assembly
bolts securely. Tighten the piston-rod packing nut and
any pump and control valve gland nuts, taking care
not to overtighten them, as this may score the shafts
and cause leaks.
Radio Bonding (Suppressors, Filters, Con-
densers, and Shielding). See that all units not
covered in the forgoing specific procedures are in
good condition and securely mounted and connected.
Be sure all additional noise suppression bond straps
and toothed lock washers listed in Section XXIV,
are inspected for looseness or damage, and see that
contact surfaces are clean. NOTE: // objectionable
radio noise from vehicle has been reported, make
tests in accordance with Section XXIV. If clean-
ing and tightening of mountings and connections, and
replacement of defective radio noise suppression units
does not eliminate the trouble, the radio operator will
report the condition to the designated individual in
authority.
Vehicle Lubrication. If due, lubricate in accordance
with Lubrication Order, section VIII, using only clean
lubricant and omitting items that have had lubrica-
tion during this service. Replace damaged or missing
lubrication fittings, vents, or plugs.
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
Tools (Vehicle and Pioneer). Inspect all the stand-
ard vehicle and pioneer tools to see that they are all
•135•
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135
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133
134
135
136
137
138
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141
present (sec. Ill, Stowage List), in good condition,
clean, and properly stowed or securely mounted. Also
examine the tools which have cutting edge to make
certain that they are sharp. Any tools mounted on
the outside of the vehicle which have bright or pol-
ished surfaces should be painted or otherwise treated
to prevent rust, glare, or reflection.
Fire Extinguisher. See that fire extinguisher (GM-

217169) is in good condition, securely mounted, and

fully charged. The charge may be determined by
shaking extinguisher. Always make certain that nozzles
are free from corrosion. Apply engine oil sparingly at
nozzle opening and at handle.
Decontaminator. Note if it is in good condition,
securely mounted and fully charged. Make the latter
check by removing the filler plug. Solution must be
replaced each 90 days.
First Aid Kit (if specified). See that it is in good
condition, and that all of its items are present and
properly packed. Report any deficiencies immediately.
Publications and Form No. 26. The vehicle and
equipment manuals, lubrication order, Standard Form
No. 26 (Accident-Report Form), W.D., A.G.O. Form
No. 478 (MWO and Major Unit Assembly Replace-
ment Record) must be present, legible, and properly
stowed.
Traction Devices (Chains). Examine tire chains to
be sure they are in good condition, clean, (if not in
use) not excessively worn, protected against rust, and
properly mounted or stowed.
Tow (Chains, Cables, Rope, and Snatch Blocks).
See that the provided towing devices are in good con-
dition, clean, and properly stowed. Tow chains or
cables should be properly protected against rust when
not in use. If snatch blocks are furnished, check to
see that they operate freely.
Spare Shear Pins. Make certain spare shear pins
are present, lubricated to prevent rust, and properly
stowed.
TM 9-801
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Mainl.
(dx-
month)
142
1000
Milt
Maim,
(month-
ly)
46-48
fication Work Orders have been completed and en-
tered on Form 478. Enter any modifications on major
unit assembly replacements made during this service.
Final Road Test. Make a final road test rechecking
applicable items (2) to (14) inclusive, and also be
sure to recheck the transmission, transfer case, and
all driving axles to see that the lubricant is at proper
level and not leaking. Confine road test to the mini-
mum distance necessary to make satisfactory obser-
vations.
NOTE: Correct or report all deficiencies found
during final road test.
142
Section XII
POWER PLANT TROUBLE SHOOTING AND DIAGNOSIS
47. GENERAL.
a. Scope. The information contained in this section includes a
compilation of trouble symptoms which might be encountered in the
operation of the power plant, together with the possible causes and
possible remedies. Only those difficulties which can be detected by
the using arm are included. Whenever practical, the trouble shooting
procedures are classified according to each section of the manual.
In some instances, a symptom indicating trouble in one unit may be
caused by difficulty in another unit; therefore, cross references to
the related units are made whenever this condition exists.

b. Diagnosing Causes. The causes of trouble symptoms or

faults in a vehicle of this type may be varied; therefore, a hit-and-
miss search would result in a tedious guessing contest. The diagnosis
of symptoms is an orderly process of eliminating causes of the
symptom. An orderly process means to check the most probable or
common cause first.
48. ENGINE.
a. General. The procedures which follow list engine general
trouble symptoms together with diagnosis and remedial operations.
These procedures are divided into three general groups which include
the most common engine trouble symptoms.
Engine fails to start
Engine runs but operates improperly
Miscellaneous engine operating faults
b. Systems of the Engine. The engine must not be considered
as a single unit, but rather as a group of units or systems. These
•137•
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TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
48-49
systems, such as the fuel, cooling, electrical, lubrication, valve mecha-
nism, and internal mechanical systems must be taken into considera-
tion when checking the cause of and applying the remedy to common
engine troubles.
49. ENGINE FAILS TO START.
a. When engine fails to start, a deficiency in one of two systems
is most commonly the cause. The most probable cause is ignition
system trouble, with fuel system as the next. One of the quickest
methods to determine whether starting trouble is caused by the
ignition system or the fuel system, is the spark test.
b. Spark Test. Disconnect one wire from spark plug. With igni-
tion switch "ON" and cranking motor cranking engine, hold free end
of wire about one-eighth of an inch away from engine block. Note
the spark. If there is no spark, the trouble lies in the ignition system.
If there is a spark, the trouble will be most commonly found in the
fuel system.
c. No Spark. The action of the ammeter will further aid in the
diagnosis of this condition. Normally the ammeter will show a slight
discharge with needle oscillating between two and four amperes.
Definite procedures are necessary if engine does not start when
ammeter action is normal or abnormal. These procedures follow:
(1) AMMETER SHOWS No DISCHARGE (ZERO). A zero reading on
the ammeter, with ignition turned "ON" and cranking motor crank-
ing engine, indicates that no current is flowing in the ignition primary
circuit; therefore, the following checks should be made on the units
of the primary circuit:
(a) First make sure that the ignition switch is fully turned "ON"
and that wiring connections at switch are clean and tight.
(b) Turn on headlights to ascertain that current is flowing
through ammeter. If ammeter does not show discharge, turn off
headlight switch, then disconnect wire at battery side of ammeter
and make flash test to determine if current is flowing to the ammeter.
Check and tighten connections in circuit between cranking motor and
ignition switch.
(c) Remove distributor cap and check condition of points and
point opening. Adjust or replace points as necessary.

(d) Check continuity of circuit through primary wire from igni-

tion switch to coil, then from coil to distributor. If current flows
through primary wire from switch to coil, and not from coil to dis-
tributor, replace the coil. If current flows through primary wire to
distributor, the trouble is in the distributor.
(e) Check continuity of circuit from ammeter to ignition switch,
then through ignition switch with switch turned "ON." Replace
wiring or switch as necessary.
(2) AMMETER SHOWS NORMAL DISCHARGE (OSCILLATING BE-
TWEEN Two AND FOUR AMPERES). If the ammeter oscillates between
two and four amperes discharge with switch turned "ON" and crank-
ing motor cranking engine, the primary circuit is functioning cor-
rectly; trace the secondary circuit in the following manner:
•138*
TM 9-801
49
(a) Remove coil to distributor high tension ware from distributor
cap. Hold end of wire about three-eighths of an inch from a ground.
With cranking motor cranking engine or "rocking" points, note
spark. If a hot, snappy spark results, reinsert wire in distributor cap
and continue with test. If a weak spark results, replace the condenser
in the distributor. If a weak spark persists, replace the coil. If no
spark results, check high tension wire from coil to distributor for
continuity of circuit. Replace with wire known to be good.
(b) With high tension wire from coil to distributor inserted in
distributor cap, remove cap. With cranking motor cranking engine,
observe inside of cap for visible current leaks.
(c) Check condition of distributor cap center electrode by hold-
ing one end of a high tension wire on electrode and the other end
about three-eights of an inch from a ground. Crank engine with
cranking motor. Spark should jump gap from high tension wire to
ground. If no spark is produced, replace the cap.
(d) Remove high tension wire from coil to distributor at dis-
tributor cap. Hold end of high tension wire about three-eighths of an
inch from the rotor. Crank engine and watch for spark. If spark is
seen, the rotor is defective and must be replaced.
(e) After determining that secondary current arrives at spark
plug wires, test each spark plug wire for continuity of circuit. Replace
wires which do not test correctly.
(3) AMMETER SHOWS CONSTANT NORMAL DISCHARGE (DOES NOT
OSCILLATE). A constant normal discharge at the ammeter (two
to four amperes), indicates that the primary circuit is not being
interrupted. Check in the following sequence.
(a) Disconnect primary wire from coil to distributor at dis-
tributor. If ammeter drops to zero, check as explained in (b) through
(d) below. If ammeter does not drop to zero, reconnect wire to dis-
tributor and disconnect at coil. If ammeter then drops to zero, the
wire is defective and must be replaced. If ammeter does not drop to
zero, the coil is defective and must be replaced.
(b) Check distributor points and adjust or replace if necessary.
(c) Check insulation on movable point and on distributor pri"
mary terminal. Replace points or distributor as necessary.

(d) Disconnect condenser pigtail. Make flash test between pig-

tail terminal and distributor primary wire terminal. If flash occurs,
replace condenser.
(4) AMMETER SHOWS ABNORMAL DISCHARGE (OVER FOUR AM-
PERES) WITH IGNITION SWITCH "ON", ZERO WITH SWITCH "OFF."
If the ammeter shows abnormal discharge with ignition switch "ON"
and zero with switch "OFF," the trouble lies beyond the ignition
switch and ahead of the primary exit at the coil. Make tests in the
following sequence:
(a) With ignition switch "ON," disconnect wire at dead side of
switch. If ammeter returns to zero, the switch is correct. If ammeter
does not return to zero, the switch is defective. Replace with one
known to be good. Reconnect wire to switch.
•139•
TM 9-801
49
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
(b) With switch known to be functioning properly, disconnect
wire at primary entrance of coil. If ammeter returns to zero, check
terminal of coil for grounded condition. If the terminal is not ground-
ed, replace the coil. If terminal is grounded, correct grounded con-
dition or replace coil.
(c) If the ammeter still shows abnormal discharge after discon-
necting primary wire at coil, replace wire from switch to coil.
(5) AMMETER SHOWS ABNORMAL DISCHARGE WITH IGNITION
SWITCH EITHER "ON" OR "OFF." If abnormal discharge exists with
ignition switch either "ON" or "OFF," the trouble is between the
ammeter and ignition switch. Shorts may also exist in lighting circuit
(between ammeter and light switch) and in generator circuit. Test
in following sequence:
(a) Remove wires from discharge side of ammeter. Ammeter
should then'return to zero. Touch terminal of light circuit wire to
ammeter terminal. If ammeter shows discharge, trace short in wire
from ammeter to light switch. If no short is present, generator circuit
should be checked. If generator circuit does not cause discharge, the
trouble lies either in the ignition switch or in the ammeter to ignition
switch wire.
(b) With ammeter to switch wire disconnected at both ends,
connect a jumper lead to ammeter terminal and to ignition switch
terminal. If discharge still shows, replace ignition switch. If ammeter
returns to zero, replace ammeter to ignition switch wire.
d. Weak Spark at Plugs.
(1) This condition may be caused by a weak battery. Check
battery and charge or replace as necessary.
(2) Remove distributor cap and check condition of points. Clean
up and adjust, or replace if necessary.
(3) Check condition of rotor and cap. Replace cap if electrodes
are burned, or rotor if segment is burned. Make sure wires are fully
seated in sockets in distributor cap.
(4) Check condenser for short and replace if necessary.
(5) Check all connections in circuit from cranking motor to dis-
tributor. Clean and tighten as necessary.
(6) Check condition of high tension wires. Replace if wet or

swollen.
(7) If items (1) through (6) do not eliminate trouble, replace
ignition coil.
e. Good Spark at Plugs. When engine will not start with good
spark at plugs, first determine that the fuel tank is not empty, then
proceed as follows:
(1) Remove float level sight plug from carbureter bowl (on
engine side).
(2) If no fuel can be seen, remove drain plug from bottom of
bowl. If no fuel flows out, make check as itemized in (6) below.
(3) If fuel is level with sight plug hole, failure to start may be
caused by flooded combustion chambers due to excessive use of
choke, or by fuel not reaching the cylinder due to a dirty carbureter.
Check choke mechanism or remove carbureter and clean (par. 94).
•140*
TM 9-801
49-50
(4) If fuel flows out of sight plug hole, carbureter float needs
adjustment (par. 94) or fuel pump pressure is excessive (par. 97).
(5) If fuel does not flow out of sight plug hole, but does flow out
of drain plug hole, check fuel pump for operation (par. 97) or check
adjustment of carbureter float level (par. 94).
(6) If fuel is not reaching carbureter as in (2), check fuel pump
operation; check line between fuel pump and fuel filter, clean fuel
filter, check lines between fuel filter and fuel tank.
50. ENGINE RUNS BUT OPERATES IMPROPERLY.
a. Continuous Mis-firing.
(1) The most common cause of this condition is dirty spark
plugs. First determine that current is flowing to each plug, then
remove plugs and check for dirty electrodes. Clean up and adjust
spark gap, or replace plugs as necessary. Dirty plugs are an indication
of faulty valve operation, or worn piston rings, allowing oil to enter
combustion chamber.
(2) Inspect high tension wires. Replace if wet or if insulation is
swollen or deteriorated.
(3) Remove distributor cap and check for burned electrodes or
cracks. Replace cap if defective.
(4) Conditions contributing to low compression will also cause
mis-firing in one or more cylinders. If remedies given in (1), (2),
and (3) do not correct the trouble, check compression of all cylinders
and make necessary repairs.
b. Erratic Mis-firing at Idling Speeds.
(1) One of the most common causes of mis-firing at idling
speed is incorrect carbureter idling adjustment or incorrect float
level adjustment. Make adjustments as required (par. 94), then
check operation of choke mechanism. Free up and adjust as necessary
(par. 95).
(2) Check ignition system units, starting with spark plugs, until
all ignition causes are corrected or eliminated.
(3) Check for vacuum leaks at windshield wiper hose, intake
manifold gasket, vacuum lines, and carbureter. Check possibility
of water entering cylinder due to a leaking cylinder head gasket.
(4) If the condition still exists after making corrections (1), (2),
and (3), check valve clearance and valve mechanism operation,

perform engine compression test, and make necessary adjustments
and repairs.
c. Mis-firing at High Speeds or Under Full Load. Mis-firing
at high speeds or under full load is commonly caused by a weak
secondary current in the ignition circuit. Weak valve springs, how-
ever, will also cause mis-firing at high speeds.
(1) Remove spark plugs and make sure they are the correct type.
Clean up and adjust gap. Make sure that gap is same on all plugs
(par. 89).
(2) Remove distributor cap and check point opening and test
spring tension (par. 88). Adjust point opening and spring tension or
replace points as necessary.
•141 •
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50-51
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
(3) A weakened coil caused by shorting out of secondary winding
will cause mis-firing. Replace coil with one known to be good. Leaks
throughout the high tension wires will also weaken the current and
cause mis-firing. Check condition of all high tension wires and replace
if necessary. Make sure that sockets in distributor cap are thoroughly
cleaned of corrosion and that wires are fully seated.
(4) Check operation of valve springs and replace any that are
weak.
d. Backfiring.
(1) As a general rule, backfiring into the muffler indicates too
rich a fuel mixture. Backfiring into the carbureter indicates too lean
a mixture. Make necessary adjustments at carbureter (par. 94).
(2) Check all fuel lines for restrictions and clean air cleaner.
Clean carbureter if necessary.
(3) Sticking valves or weak valve springs will also cause back-
firing. Check for and correct these conditions. Make sure cylinder
head gasket is in good condition.
(4) Extremely late ignition timing will cause backfiring. Check
timing and make necessary adjustments (par. 87).
51. ENGINE MISCELLANEOUS OPERATING FAULTS.
a. Excessive Fuel Consumption. For a diagnosis of causes of
excessive fuel consumption, refer to FUEL SYSTEM trouble shoot-
ing and diagnosis (par. 54).
b. Excessive Oil Consumption.
(1) The first step to be taken when an engine uses an excessive
amount of oil is to make a thorough inspection for leaks. Check all
oil lines and tighten connections or replace as necessary.
(2) Over speeding the engine will result in excessive oil con-
sumption. Poor driving practices should be corrected.
(3) Worn pistons or piston rings are a common cause of excessive
oil consumption. Perform engine compression test and make neces-
sary repairs or report condition to higher authority.
(4) Overheating will cause excessive oil consumption. Refer to
COOLING SYSTEM trouble shooting and diagnosis (par. 56).
(5) Remove crankcase ventilator valve and clean thoroughly to
prevent sticking (par. 82).

(6) Report loose connecting rod or main bearings to higher

authority.
c. Lack of Power.
(1) The primary cause of lack of power is poor compression.
Perform engine compression test and make necessary correction or
report condition to higher authority.
(2) Conditions in the fuel system which contribute to lack of
power are covered in FUEL SYSTEM trouble shooting and diagnosis
(par. 54).
(3) Improper ignition timing will result in a lack of power.
Refer to IGNITION SYSTEM trouble shooting and diagnosis
(par. 53).
•142•
TM 9-801
51
(4) Overheating also results in a lack of power. Refer to COOL-
ING SYSTEM trouble shooting and diagnosis (par. 56).
(5) A clogged exhaust system or bent exhaust pipe or tail pipe
will result in a lack of power. Check for these conditions and clean
out or replace pipes as necessary.
(6) Dragging brakes or improperly inflated tires simulate a lack
of power. Check for these conditions and make necessary cor-
rections.
d. Engine Fails to Develop Maximum Permissible rpm.
This condition is usually an indication that the governor is dirty
and must be replaced (par. 96).
e. Operating Knocks. Noises in an engine generally termed as
"operating knocks" may be caused by (1) overloading the engine,
(2) carbon in the combustion chamber, (3) incorrect ignition timing,
(4) low octane fuel, and (5) pre-ignition.
(1) OVERLOADING THE ENGINE. This noise occurs when an en-
gine is placed under extreme load. Generally the noise is reduced
after shifting to a lower transmission gear. This knock may be due
to a combination of causes, all of which may be generally remedied
by using correct transmission speeds. v
(2) CARBON KNOCKS. This knocking is caused by accumulation of
carbon in combustion chambers and is most noticeable when engine
is hot and when engine is accelerated. The remedy is cleaning carbon
from cylinder head.
(3) TIMING KNOCK. Too early ignitidh timing may cause a knock
that may be mistaken for a carbon knock. The engine may also kick
back when starting. Check the ignition timing and make necessary
corrections.
(4) FUEL KNOCK. A poor grade of gasoline may cause a knock
or "ping" similar to a carbon knock. Use a better grade of gasoline
or readjust ignition timing (manual advance) to accomplish smooth
running with grade of fuel used.
(5) PRE-IGNITION. One of the causes of pre-ignition (auto-igni-
tion) is the use of wrong type spark plugs. Make certain that correct
plugs are used. Also idle engine for 30 seconds before turning off
ignition switch.
f. Mechanical Knocks. In many instances, vehicles are sent to

the repair shop for major engine overhaul due to improper diagnosis
of mechanical difficulty. Properly diagnosing mechanical knocks will,
in many cases, result in correcting the difficulty by minor repairs or
adjustments, without necessitating removal of the engine from the
vehicle.
(1) Mechanical knocks are noises that result from wear or im-
proper adjustments. These knocks are not always easy to locate
accurately as no two engines have exactly the same sound with the
same faulty condition. In many instances, causes of mechanical
knocks will evidence themselves by other symptoms. Correct diag-
nosis of mechanical knocks requires experience and practice on the
particular type of engine to be serviced.
(2) DIAGNOSIS OF MECHANICAL KNOCKS. The first step in analyz-
ing a mechanical knock is to be sure that the noise is in the engine.
•143•
TM 9-801
51-53
If the noise can be heard with the vehicle stopped and clutch disen-
gaged, the fault is generally in the engine. The engine should be
warmed up to operating temperature. Check to see that all cylinders
are firing, then try engine under load to bring out the knock. Elim-
inate the possible causes such as carbon and valves, then proceed as
follows to localize the knocks so that corrections may be made or a
proper report made to a higher authority.
(a) Crankshaft and Bearing Knocks. Loose bearings are
usually indicated by heavy dull knock, more noticeable on accelera-
tion of engine when under load. This knock can generally be located
by shorting out cylinders on both sides of loose bearing. End play
is usually indicated by intermittent knock which may disappear when
slight pressure is put on clutch pedal.
(b) Piston and Connecting Rod Knocks. Knock caused by
loose connecting rod bearing can be shorted out. Loose piston pin
noise generally doubles when cylinder is shorted out. Loose piston
or piston "slap" is more noticeable when engine is cold and can be
generally shorted out. Broken piston pin or ring noise usually has
a sharp clicking sound and cannot be shorted out.
(c) Camshaft, Knocks. These knocks generally occur at half
engine speed. Gear cover should be removed and play in gears and
shaft checked by higher echelon.
(d) Timing Gear Noises. A "humming" noise may indicate
tight gears. Loose gears and other timing gear faults may be indi-
cated by a rattle or knock.
(e) Valve Mechanism Knocks. If valve mechanism knocks
cannot be eliminated by valve clearance adjustment, report to higher
authority.
(/) Water Pump Knocks. If knocks definitely point to water
pump, remove assembly and replace.
(g) Other Engine Noises. Check possible sources of other
,noises such as loose fan blades, engine mounting, and muffler parts.
52. ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM.
a. General. The most common trouble experienced with engine
lubrication systems is the result of neglecting to use proper grade of
oil or to keep oil to proper level. The use of oil of incorrect viscosity
will contribute to several engine troubles, while neglecting to keep

crankcase oil to proper level will finally result in a damaged engine.
Use the correct grade of oil, keep it to proper level, and change it at
regular intervals.
b. Low Oil Pressure. Low or no oil pressure is commonly caused
by a clogged oil pump screen, broken oil lines, or worn main bearings.
If the gage is known to be correct, and proper grade of oil is used,
remove oil pan, clean screen, and examine oil pump for worn gears.
Check oil lines for breaks or leaks, and make necessary corrections.
c. Excessive Oil Consumption. Refer to paragraph 51.
53. IGNITION SYSTEM.
a. General. The diagnosis of trouble symptoms in this paragraph
are of those which pertain only to the ignition- system. Reference
•144•
TM 9-801
53-54
should be made to ENGINE for a diagnosis of like symptoms.
When diagnosing any ignition system trouble, the mechanic should
visualize the ignition wiring diagram and keep in mind the funda-
mental action of the two ignition circuits, primary and secondary.
b. Engine Mis-fires.
(1) Remove spark plugs and clean and adjust point gap. Replace
with new plugs if porcelain is cracked (par. 89).
(2) Remove distributor cap and check condition of points. Adjust
point opening or replace points as necessary (par. 88).
(3) Check for other causes such as valves, valve springs, or poor
compression and make necessary corrections.
(4) If trouble is still present, check ignition coil and condenser
and replace if necessary.
c. Engine Backfires.
(1) Backfiring may be caused by crossed spark plug wires or a
cracked distributor cap. Check wires and attach in correct firing
order (1-5-3-6-2-4). Inspect distributor cap and replace if damaged.
(2) If trouble is still evident, check for other causes as directed
in Fuel System (par. 54).
d. Excessive "Ping" (Detonation) Under Load or at High
Speed.
(1) This condition can be caused by improper ignition timing or
by using an inferior grade of fuel. Make sure a good grade of fuel is
used and make necessary manual advance adjustment (par. 87).
(2) "Ping" or knock caused by pre-ignition cannot be corrected
by retarding the spark. Pre-ignition is caused by an overheated spot
such as exhaust valve head, carbon deposit, or center electrode of
spark plug igniting the fuel charge before the regularly timed spark
at the plug. This condition can be corrected by using spark plugs of
proper heat range, correcting exhaust valve clearance, or removing
cylinder head and cleaning carbon deposits from top of piston and
from cylinder head.
e. Engine Overheating or Lack of Power.
(1) This condition is sometimes caused by improper ignition
timing. Check timing adjustment and make necessary corrections
(par. 87).
(2) If this does not eliminate the trouble, check for other causes
such as defective cooling system, poor compression, wrong type oil,
etc.
54. FUEL SYSTEM.
a. General. Many symptoms which might indicate fuel system
trouble are in reality due to faulty ignition or valves. Before making
any extensive adjustments or repairs on the fuel system, the ignition
system and valve operation should be thoroughly checked.
b. Excessive Fuel Consumption. The causes of excessive fuel
consumption are listed below in logical sequence.
(1) FUEL LEAKS.
(a) Fuel Lines. Inspect all fuel lines for leaks, and check and
tighten all connections.
736603 O - 47 - 10 • 145 •
TM 9-801
54
(b) Carbureter. Fuel leaks at carbureter will be evidenced by
the presence of fuel on the outside of the carbureter. Leak could be
caused by loose drain plugs or improperly installed channel plugs.
Tighten drain plugs or replace carbureter as necessary.
(c) Fuel Pump. Check for leaks around fuel pump bowl.
Tighten knurled nut at top of bowl. If leak continues, replace gasket
between bowl and pump.
(d) Fuel Filter. Leakage may occur at fuel filter bowl. Tighten
cover bolt at top of filter and tighten drain plug. If leak is still present,
replace bowl to cover gasket.
(2) IMPROPER CARBURETER ADJUSTMENT OR CARBURETER CON-
TROLS STICKING.
(a) Adjust idling mixture and choke controls. Install new return
spring on choke control if necessary (par. 95).
(b) Air shutter (choke) not returning to fully open position will
cause excessive fuel consumption. Soak carbureter air intake in kero-
sene to cut corrosion, then free up and lubricate shutter shaft.
(c) Adjust accelerator pump stroke for seasonal operation (par.
94).
(3) VALVE IN FUEL TANK CAP STUCK CLOSED. In extremely hot
weather, this condition will cause excessive pressure in the fuel tank,
which will result in excessive fuel consumption. Replace the cap if
this condition is found.
(4) CARBURETER PARTS WORN. If leaks still exist after making
corrections as directed in (1), (2), and (3) above, carbureter parts
are worn, necessitating an overhaul of the unit. Replace carbureter
with a new or rebuilt unit (par. 94).
c. Engine Idles Too Fast.
(1) Improper throttle adjustment, preventing the throttle plate
from returning to closed position will cause engine to idle too fast.
Properly adjust hand throttle (par. 95).
(2) Check return spring and replace with new spring if damage is
apparent.
(3) Soak carbureter throttle body in kerosene to cut corrosion,
then free up and lubricate throttle shaft.
d. Engine Dies When Idling.

(1) This condition is usually caused by improper carbureter

idling speed or idling mixture adjustment. Make necessary adjust-
ments (par. 94).
(2) Sticking choke control or crankcase ventilating valve will
also cause engine to die. Free up and lubricate choke cable shaft and
service crankcase ventilating valve.
(3) If trouble is still present, the idling circuit in the carbureter
is clogged. Replace carbureter with a new or rebuilt unit (par. 94).
e. Low Fuel Pressure.
(1) Low fuel pressure is usually indicated when engine falters at
high speeds. This condition may be caused by air leaking into the
fuel lines. Tighten all fuel line connections and tighten fuel pump
and fuel filter covers.
(2) Plugged fuel lines or clogged intake valve in fuel tank cap
•146*
TM 9-801
54-56
will cause low or no fuel pressure. Clean out or replace lines or cap
as necessary.
(3) Test fuel pressure (par. 97).
(4) If low pressure is still evident, the fuel pump diaphragm is
broken or the fuel pump valves are leaking. Replace diaphragm or
valves as necessary.
(5) If the fuel pump linkage is worn excessively, replace pump
(par. 97).
f. Engine Falters on Acceleration.
(1) This condition is usually caused by faulty operation of the
carbureter accelerator pump or by dirt in the metering jets. In either
case, the carbureter must be replaced with a new or rebuilt unit
(par. 94).
(2) Air in the fuel lines will also contribute to this condition.
Carefully check all lines for leaks.
g. Overheating or Lack of Power.
(1) Too lean a fuel mixture will cause the engine to overheat.
Adjust carbureter (par. 94).
(2) Use of a low octane rating fuel will result in a lack of power.
In this case, the ignition timing must be adjusted to compensate for
the fuel used. This means that the lower the octane rating of the
fuel, the more the spark must be retarded (par. 87).
55. EXHAUST SYSTEM.
a. Odor of Exhaust Fumes in Cab. The odor of exhaust fumes
in the cab are an indication of leaks in the exhaust system.
(1) Check for blown out muffler and replace if necessary.
(2) Tighten all exhaust pipe connections.
(3) Check for leaking manifold gasket or cracked manifold.
Replace gasket or manifold as necessary.
b. Excessive Combustion Noises. This condition is caused by a
blown out muffler, loose manifold, or a blown manifold gasket.
Tighten manifold or replace gasket or muffler as necessary.
56. COOLING SYSTEM.
a. General. Since the action of the cooling system controls the
operating temperature of the engine, it is logical to assume that the
cause of an overheated engine lies in the cooling system; however,

late ignition timing or improper or insufficient lubricating oil in the

engine crankcase will cause the engine to overheat, even though the
cooling system is functioning properly. Check these items before
making any extensive tests or repairs on the cooling system.
b. Overheating.
(1) Check for broken or loose fan belt. Replace belt or adjust to
proper tension (par. 108).
(2) Check all radiator hose connections; water pump mounting
bolts, seal and gasket; thermostat housing bolts and gasket, cylinder
head bolts and gasket, and make necessary repairs to correct leakage.
•147•
TM 9-801
56-57
(3) Ch^ck radiator core for leakage and replace with new core if
such a condition is found. Check for clogged air passages through
radiator core and clean out if necessary.
(4) Cooling liquid may be escaping through an internal leak such
as an internally cracked cylinder or block, or a defective cylinder
head gasket. Such leakage would be evidenced by bubbles or foam
on the oil dip stick, or by a raised oil level in the crankcase. In this
case, report the condition to a higher authority.
(5) An inoperative thermostat will cause engine to overheat.
Remove thermostat and test or replace with one known to be good
(par. 110).
(6) Air suction or exhaust gas leakage into the system will cause
rapid rusting and corrosion of engine parts, and this rust and corro-
sion will eventually clog the small water passages in the radiator core.
In the event the cooling system is clogged, perform flushing operations
(par. 107); in the event this does not clean out the system, report to
higher authority.
(7) An improperly operating water pump will cause engine to
overheat. To determine if the water pump is functioning properly,
remove radiator filler cap, run engine at medium speed, and notice
the action of the water. Do not confuse action caused by vibration
with circulation; there will be a distinct noticeable current if the
water pump is operating properly.
c. Overcboling. Overcooling is caused by the thermostat being
stuck open. This is evidenced by the fact that the engine does not
warm up to proper operating temperature. If such a condition exists,
remove the thermostat and test or replace with one known to be
good (par. 110).
57. STARTING SYSTEM.
a. General. If the engine fails to start after repeated and satis-
factory operations of the cranking motor, cause of failure cannot be
attributed to the starting system, but to other functioning systems
of the engine such as the ignition system or fuel system.
b. Cranking Motor Fails to Operate.
(1) The first item to check when the cranking- motor fails to
operate is the battery. If the battery is run down, recharge or replace

(par. 119).
(2) Loose or broken battery or ground cable will cause cranking
motor failure. Thoroughly clean terminals and tighten or replace
cables as necessary.
(3) Cranking motor switch contact terminal sometimes becomes
corroded or burned, preventing a good contact. Check for this con-
dition and replace switch if necessary.
(4) If, after making the above corrections, the cranking motor
still fails to operate, it is in need of an overhaul and must be replaced
c. Cranking Motor Noisy.
(1) Cranking motor noise may be due to loose mounting. Tighten
•148•
TM 9-801
57-59
cap screw and stud nut attaching cranking motor to clutch housing.
(2) Lubricate cranking motor.
(3) If still noisy, the cranking motor requires ari overhaul and
must be replaced with a new or rebuilt unit (par. 114).
d. Slow Cranking Speed.
(1) This condition may be caused by a weak battery or loose
cable connections. Check for and correct these conditions.
(2) Perform line voltage tests to determine if there is excessive
resistance in circuit and make necessary corrections (par. 120).
(3) If the cranking motor still operates slowly after making the
above corrections, it is in need of overhaul and must be replaced
58. GENERATING SYSTEM.
a. General. Since the generator and regulator functions are
directly related, both units must be considered when checking symp-
toms of failure in the generator circuit. When the ammeter shows an
unsatisfactory reading, make sure the ammeter is correct before
making any repairs on the generating system.
b. High Charging Rate With Fully Charged Battery.
(1) Check generator to regulator ground wire for damage or
loose connections.
(2) Clean and tighten all terminals and connections in generator
circuit.
(3) If condition still exists, either the voltage regulator is in need
of adjustment, or the generator is in need of an overhaul. In either
case, replace with a new or rebuilt unit.
c. Low Battery and Low or No Charging Rate.
(1) Check all wires between generator and regulator for signs of
worn insulation or other damage. Clean and tighten all connections.
(2) If this does not correct the trouble, either the generator or
regulator, or both, must be replaced with new or rebuilt units.
d. Noisy Generator.
(1) Check and tighten all generator mounting bolts. Check fan
belt tension and adjust if necessary (par. 108).
(2) If noise is still present, generator is in need of overhaul and
must be replaced with a new or rebuilt unit.

59. CLUTCH.
a. General. The clutch is designed for maximum efficiency and
long life, and with reasonable care, no operating difficulty should be
encountered. Natural wear will occur, however, and must be com-
pensated for.
b. Clutch Slipping.
(1) Improper adjustment (no pedal free-travel) will cause the
clutch to slip. Adjust pedal free-travel (par. 150).
(2) If this does not eliminate the condition, it may be due to
worn facings, grease on facings, clutch disc hub binding on clutch
shaft, or insufficient spring tension. Any of these causes necessitate
replacing the clutch assembly (par. 152).
•149•
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TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
c. Clutch Grabbing and Chattering.
(1) This condition may be caused by improperly operating the
clutch. If this is the cause, the condition may be eliminated by
correcting poor driving practices.
(2) Check and tighten engine mounting bolts. Also inspect and
tighten all transmission mounting bolts. See that transmission strut
rod is connected and properly adjusted.
(3) If grabbing and chattering condition persists, it may be
caused by grease on facings, worn splines on clutch shaft or in disc
hub, facing loose on disc, or pressure plate scored or rough. Any of
these conditions require replacing the clutch assembly (par. 152).
When making replacement, inspect for worn splines on clutch shaft
and replace transmission if this condition is found.
d. Rattling.
(1) A rattling sound, appearing to originate in the clutch, may
be heard if the clutch pedal pull back spring is disconnected. Con-
nect spring and check for continued rattling.
(2) If rattling continues, it is due to weak pressure plate re-
tracting springs or excessive clearance between driving lugs and cover.
In either case, the clutch assembly must be replaced (par. 152).
Section XIII
POWER TRAIN AND MISCELLANEOUS
TROUBLE SHOOTING AND DIAGNOSIS
60. GENERAL.
a. Scope. The information contained in this section includes a
compilation of trouble symptoms which might be encountered in the
power train and miscellaneous units during operation of the vehicle,
together with possible causes and possible remedies. Only those
difficulties which can be detected by the using arm are included. The
trouble shooting procedures are classified according to each section
of the manual. In some instances, a symptom indicating trouble in
one unit may be caused by difficulty in another unit; therefore, cross
references to the related units are made whenever this condition
exists.
b. Diagnosing Causes. The diagnosis of symptoms is an orderly
process of eliminating causes of the symptom. An orderly process

means to check the most probable or common cause first. In the

following procedures, each trouble symptom is listed with a diagnosis
of causes and possible remedies following in logical sequence.
61. BATTERY AND LIGHTING SYSTEM.
a. General. Reference to wiring diagram (fig. 113 or 114) will
show that a single circuit from battery to main light switch is com-
•150•
TM 9-801
61
POWER TRAIN AND MISCELLANEOUS TROUBLE SHOOTING
mon to all lamps on the vehicle. At main light switch this single
circuit is divided into multiple circuits, each of which is common to
two or more lamps (except service stop lamp). These circuits are
then taken to various junction points where they are divided into
individual circuits, each of which is taken to a single lamp. The
return path of each circuit is through ground to battery. Dividing
the circuits in this manner provides a convenient and logical method
of locating the source of trouble. The use of a voltmeter or trouble
lamp, and adhering to the following principles will aid in locating
trouble in the lighting system.
(1) Source of trouble common to all lamps will be located in that
part of the circuit common to all lamps.
(2) Source of trouble common to two or more—but not all—
lamps will be located in that part of the circuit common only to the
lamps affected.
(3) Source of trouble at a single lamp will be confined to the
individual circuit of the lamp affected.
b. One Lamp Will Not Light. This condition is the result of
an open circuit or grounded wire between the lamp ground and the
feed wire junction. Open circuit or grounded wire may be caused by
a burned out or broken filament; poor ground at lamp; corroded
contacts or terminals; broken wire; frayed insulation; grounded or
shorted terminals; defective main light switch or stop light switch
(stop light only).
c. Two or More Lamps Will Not Light. The cause of this
condition will be located between the main light switch and the
individual lamp junction. Cause may be defective main light switch;
defective individual light switch; loose or corroded terminals; broken
wire.
d. All Lamps Will Not Light. The cause of this condition will
be located between the point where the battery ground strap attaches
to the frame and the main light switch.
(1) The cause may be a discharged battery; corroded battery
terminals; corroded or broken battery cable or ground strap. These
points can be checked by cranking engine with cranking motor. If
cranking speed is normal, trouble lies between the cranking motor

and main light switch.

(2) Other causes are loose or corroded terminals; defective main
light switch; defective circuit breaker; defective ammeter; short
circuit or ground at some point in system which causes the circuit
breaker to operate. The only remedy is to methodically check the
system until the fault is located and corrected.
(3) A vehicle not in use for some time may possibly have all
lamp contacts corroded to the point where lamps are inoperative. A
remote possibility of failure is that all filaments may have been
broken by shock.
e. Lamps Give Insufficient Light. This condition may be
caused by excessive resistance in circuit or by a discharged battery.
Check condition of battery, then look for loose or corroded terminals
and contacts, and frayed insulation on wires.
•151*
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61-62
f. Frequent Lamp Failure. Frequent burning out of lamps is
the result of high voltage at lamps. This is caused by a defective or
improperly adjusted voltage regulator.
g. Discharged Battery. A discharged battery may be caused
by loose or corroded terminals in any of the electrical circuits. Check
for and correct such conditions. Shorted or dry battery cells will also
result in a discharged battery. Replenish water or replace battery as
necessary (par. 119). Check generator charging rate and replace
generator if necessary (par. 117).
h. Overheated Battery. This condition is caused by a defective
or improperly adjusted voltage regulator. Replace regulator (par. 118).
62. RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION SYSTEM.
a. Locate Source of Noise. To locate the source of radio inter-
ference emanating from the vehicle, the use of a radio receiver in the
vehicle or in an adjacent vehicle will be required. Noting the type of
interference present in the receiver will help determine the cause of
the trouble. To determine if the noise is coming from the vehicle
itself or from an outside source, drive the vehicle at least 100 feet
from other vehicles. Turn engine off and turn radio on. Any noise
heard will be from an outside source. Start engine. Any noise heard
will come from the vehicle itself.
(1) ENGINE. Operate engine with vehicle not in motion and
listen for noises in the receiver. If a crackling or clicking noise is
present, accelerate the engine and turn ignition switch off with engine
running at high speed. If noise stops immediately, the interference
is being caused by the Ignition Circuit (subpar. b below). If an
irregular clicking or chattering continues a few seconds after the
ignition is shut off, interference is being caused by the Generating
Circuit (subpar. c below). If the interference is in the form of a
whining or whirring noise which varies with engine speed, turn the
ignition off. If the tone of the sound lowers in pitch but continues
for a few seconds after the ignition is turned off, it is caused by the
Generator (subpar. d below).
(2) VEHICLE. Operate the vehicle and note whether there is any
interference present in the receiver. If clicking or scratching noise is
present, stop the vehicle, but leave the engine running. If noise stops
when motion of vehicle stops, it may be attributed to faulty Bonding

(subpar. e below), or loose connections in vehicle Wiring (subpar.
f below).
b. Ignition Circuit. Make sure ignition circuit is functioning
properly (par. 53). Improper spark plug gaps, improper ignition
system adjustments, or worn parts will affect the suppression system.
Clean and tighten all wiring connections. Tighten engine mountings.
With engine running, remove and replace spark plug wires from spark
plugs one at a time, listening for a lessening of the frequency of
clicks in the receiver. If removal of one of the wires reduces or elim-
inates the interference, the spark plug suppressor js defective and
must be replaced.
c. Generating Circuit. Check regulator mounting bolts and
•152•
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62-64
tighten if necessary. Internal-external.toothed lock washers must be
in place between regulator base and cowl to ground regulator. Test
filters on cowl and replace if faulty (Sec. XXIV). Test condenser on
generator and replace if faulty (Sec. XXIV).
d. Generator. Check and tighten all generator connections and
mounting bolts. If noise is still present, replace generator assembly
(par. 117).
e. Bonding. Check all bond straps for breaks and loose con-
nections. Replace straps or clean and tighten connections. Internal-
external toothed lock washers must be used at all bond strap con-
nections.
f. Wiring. Inspect all wiring for worn, frayed, or otherwise dam-
aged insulation. Replace if defective. Clean and tighten all connec-
tions.
63. TRANSMISSION.
a. Excessive Noise.
(1) Noise which seemingly comes from the transmission may be
caused by another assembly such as axle, transfer case, propeller
shaft universal joint, or clutch; therefore, before replacing the trans-
mission due to noise, make sure that difficulty does not exist else-
where.
(2) Improper or insufficient lubricant may cause transmission
noise. Change or add lubricant as directed in Section VIII.
(3) Transmission noise may be caused by gears or bearings being
worn, broken, or loose on shafts. These causes require replacing the
transmission with a new or rebuilt unit (pars. 154 and 155).
(4) A noisy condition in the power take-off will reflect through
the transmission. Check power take-off mounting nuts and tighten
as necessary. Incorrect number of gaskets between power take-off
and transmission will cause noise. Install correct number of gaskets
(par. 157 or 158). Excessively worn power take-off gears necessitate
replacing the power take-off assembly (par. 157 or 158).
b. Hard Shifting.
(1) First check for loose transmission to clutch housing cap
screws. Tighten all cap screws firmly.
(2) Hard shifting may be due to improper clutch pedal adjust-

ment, causing the clutch to fail to release. Adjust clutch pedal free
travel (par. 150).
(3) If this does not eliminate the condition, it is due to scored
shift rods or binding in the control cover assembly. Replace trans-
mission assembly (pars. 154 and 155).
c. Slips Out of Gear. This condition is usually caused by weak
or broken shift rod poppet springs, a bent shifting fork, or the gears
in the transmission are worn excessively and the transmission assem-
bly must be replaced (pars. 154 and 155).
64. POWER TAKE-OFF.
a. Hard Shifting.
(1) Too heavy lubricant in the transmission will cause the power
•153•
TM 9-801
64-66
take-off to shift hard. Drain and refill transmission with correct
lubricant (Section VIII).
(2) Burred gear teeth will also cause hard shifting. If this con-
dition is present, replace the power take-off assembly (par. 157 or
158).
b. Power Take-off Noisy. The power take-off is so closely re-
lated to the transmission that a noisy condition in the power take-off
would only be detected through the transmission. Refer to para-
graph 63 for a diagnosis of transmission noises.
65. TRANSFER CASE.
a. Hard Shifting.
(1) Hard shifting may not be due to any difficulty in the transfer
case, but due to improper driving practices. Follow driving and
shifting procedures as directed in paragraph 16.
(2) Tightness in control linkage due to rust, corrosion, dirt, or
need of lubrication will cause hard shifting. Inspect, clean, and
lubricate linkage.
b. Slips Out of Gear.
(1) Transfer case will slip out of gear if gears do not fully engage
due to improperly adjusted control linkage. Adjust control linkage
(par. 160).
(2) A weak or broken shift shaft poppet ball spring will cause
transfer ease to jump out of gear. This condition requires replacement
of transfer case assembly (pars. 161 and 162).
c. Loss of Lubricant. This condition is caused by worn or
damaged flange hubs, oil seals, or damaged gaskets. In either case,
replace the transfer case assembly (pars. 161 and 162).
66. FRONT AND REAR AXLES.
a. General. An unusual noise is usually the first indication of
improper functioning of axle driving parts. Noises which seem to
come from the axles may be caused by some other unit such as
transmission, transfer case, or tires. Some conditions in the front
axle directly affect the steering of the vehicle, and are listed under
Steering System (par. 70).
b. Continuous Axle Noise.
(1) This condition may be caused by some difficulty in the axle

or by improperly or unevenly worn tires.

(2) To determine if noise is caused by axle or by tires, drive
vehicle on soft terrain. If this stops the noise, it is being caused by
the tires and not by the axle. Inflate tires to proper pressure or
replace as necessary (par. 198).
(3) If noise continues on soft terrain, it is caused by worn or
improperly adjusted wheel bearings, worn or improperly adjusted
differential gears or bearings, or by insufficient lubricant in the differ-
entials and steering knuckles. Add lubricant, adjust wheel bearings
(par. 199), or replace axle assembly (pars. 168 and 169, or 173 and
174).
•154*
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66-68
c. Axle Noise on Drive Only or on Coast Only. This condition
is an-indication that the differential pinion and ring gear are out of
adjustment or worn excessively. To correct this condition, replace
complete axle assembly (pars. 168 and 169, or 173 and 174).
d. Excessive Backlash in Axle Driving Parts.
(1) This condition may_be caused by loose axle shaft or drive
flange cap screws or stud nuts, worn holes in flanges, or by worn
splines on axle shafts. Tighten cap screws or stud nuts, or replace
axle shafts as necessary (par. 171 or 172).
(2) If excessive backlash still exists, replace axle assembly (pars.
168 and 169, or 173 and 174).
67. PROPELLER SHAFTS.
a. Excessive Noise or Vibration.
(1) Need of lubrication in the universal joints will result in exces-
sive propeller shaft noise. Lubricate all universal joints (Sec. VIII).
(2) If propeller shafts are not assembled with universal joints in
the same plane, vibration will result. Check for this condition and
if found, disconnect propeller shafts and place universal joints in
same plane (par. 176).
(3) Check for loose pillow block mounting cap screws and tighten
if necessary.
(4) Worn universal joint bearings or journals, or a sprung propeller
shaft will cause vibration and noise. Check for these conditions and
replace propeller shaft assembly if necessary (par. 176).
(5) Any mechanical movement has vibration periods, which do
not result in noise until they tune in with some other part or unit.
In this connection, loose or broken fenders, running boards, body or
cab hold-down bolts, etc., should be checked as the source of noise
if the above remedies do not correct the condition.
68. SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM.
a. Excessive Pedal Pressure and Poor Stop.
(1) This condition is most commonly caused by normal wear of
the brake linings. Correct by adjusting brake shoes (par. 181).
(2) Tighten all connections in vacuum system, and clean or
replace Hydrovac air cleaner (par. 188). Inspect vacuum check valve
at manifold and replace if not operating properly (par. 190).

(3) Inspect brake shoes and linings. If linings are grease soaked
or worn excessively, or if the brake shoes are twisted or sprung,
replace brake shoe and lining assemblies (pars. 182, 183, and 184).
(4) Check for obstructed brake lines, and clean or replace lines
as necessary.
(5) Check brake pedal and linkage for bent or broken condition,
and replace damaged parts.
(6) If the condition still exists after making the above correc-
tions, the trouble lies in the Hydrovac. Replace the Hydrovac as-
sembly (par. 188).
(7) In extremely cold weather, with the wrong type fluid in the
system, the fluid will thicken and will not flow freely through the
•155•
TM 9-801
68
lines and openings. This will cause extreme pedal pressure. Drain
and flush system and refill with proper fluid (par. 180).
b. Pedal Goes to Floor Board.
(1) If this condition comes about gradually, it is due to normal
wear of the brake linings. Check linings and adjust (par. 181), or
replace brake shoe and lining assemblies as necessary (pars. 182,
183, and 184).
(2) If the pedal goes to the floor suddenly, it may be due to a
leak in the hydraulic system, or the pedal linkage has become broken
or disconnected. Check for broken or leaking lines or connections,
especially in the flexible lines. If a leak occurs in the front wheel
brake lines, rear brakes can be used by shutting off the shut-off cock
inside right-hand frame side rail. Replace lines or tighten connec-
tions as necessary, and bleed brake system (par. 180). Check for
disconnected or broken pedal linkage; make necessary connections,
replacements, and adjustments.
(3) Air trapped in the hydraulic system will sometimes permit
the pedal to go to the floor. Bleed the entire brake system (par. 180).
c. Noisy Brakes. This condition is caused by dirty brake linings,
excessively worn linings, loose lining rivets, twisted or sprung brake
shoes, distorted drums, or broken brake shoe return springs. Replace
brake shoe and lining assemblies (pars. 182, 183, and 184), or brake
drums (par. 185).
d. Springy, Spongy Pedal Action. Brake shoes needing ad-
justment due to normal wear, or air in the hydraulic system will
cause a springy, spongy pedal action. Check brake shoe adjustment
and make necessary corrections (par. 181). If pedal action is still
soft, bleed brake system (par. 180).
e. One Brake Drags.
(1) This condition may be caused by an improperly adjusted
brake shoe. Check adjustment and make necessary correction (par.
181).
(2) Check brake mechanism for corrosion or binding, or for a
weak or broken brake shoe return spring, and replace parts as
necessary.
(3) Check wheel bearing adjustment and correct if necessary.

(4) Defective wheel cylinder cups or corroded end caps on cyl-

inder will sometimes prevent brake shoes from returning to released
position. Check for these conditions and replace wheel cylinder if
necessary (par. 189).
f. All Brakes Drag.
(1) Dirt and corrosion in the brake shoe linkage or wheel cyl-
inders is the most common cause of dragging brakes. Clean and lub-
ricate linkage, or replace wheel cylinders as necessary (par. 189).
(2) Brakes will drag if the bypass part in the master cylinder is
restricted. This port may be closed by dirt, by a swollen piston cup,
or by the piston not fully returning to the rear of the cylinder due to
bent or broken linkage. Make necessary adjustments or replace
master cylinder (par. 187).
•156•
TM 9-801
68-69
(3) A defective check valve in the Hydrovac slave cylinder will
also cause the brakes to drag. This condition necessitates replacing
the Hydrovac (par. 188).
(4) Weak or broken brake shoe return springs will cause brakes
to drag, although this condition would rarely occur at all wheels at
the same time.
g. Locked Brakes. There are several conditions which may con-
tribute to brakes locking. When one or more of the brakes lock, the
following symptoms, causes, and remedies should be studied.
(1) WHEEL CYLINDER STICKING. Locking of brakes may be
caused by sticking of the wheel cylinder piston, or rusting of the
caps on wheel cylinder, preventing the return of the brake shoes
after a brake application. This is generally caused by old gummy
fluid or corrosion. This usually occurs on one or two brakes at a time,
but never on all six brakes unless the vehicle has been stored for
some time near salt water. To remedy piston sticking condition,
drain all fluid and flush the entire hydraulic system with fresh fluid.
Wheel cylinder assemblies which are in rusted condition must be
replaced (par. 189).
(2) DIRT IN BRAKE FLUID. Dirt in the fluid may enter when re-
filling the master cylinder during bleeding operations. Extreme clean-
liness of the fluid containers during this operation is necessary. This
symptom may be diagnosed by removing the vacuum hose from the
Hydrovac unit. Brakes should then release as all vacuum will then
be depleted. To correct such conditions, replace the Hydrovac unit
(par. 188), drain and flush the system, and fill with clean fluid (par.
180).
(3) DIRTY HYDROVAC AIR CLEANER. The valve in the Hydrovac
relay valve may be stuck in open position due to sand or dust drawn
in through the air cleaner. Such symptoms can also be diagnosed by
removing the vacuum hose from the Hydrovac unit. To correct such
conditions, it is necessary to replace the Hydrovac unit (par. 188).
To avoid repeated failures, the Hydrovac air cleaner should be
cleaned more often, particularly when the vehicle is operating in
dusty areas.
(4) BRAKE LINKAGE OUT OF ADJUSTMENT. Locked brakes may

be caused by the brake pedal linkage being out of adjustment or the

brake pedal return spring weak or broken. In either case, slight pedal
movement when driving over rough roads will build up the fluid
pressure and apply the brakes. This condition may be diagnosed by
opening the bleed screw slightly on one wheel cylinder to release the
fluid pressure. Brakes should then return to the released position. If
this condition exists, the pedal and linkage adjustments should be
made as described in paragraph 181.
69. WHEELS, HUBS, AND TIRES.
a. General. When localizing wheel and tire trouble symptoms,
consideration must also be taken of various related systems such as
brakes, wheel alinement, and steering gear system. Deficiencies in
these systems or units will affect performance of wheels, tires, and
hub bearings.
•157•
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69-70
b. Excessive or Uneven Tire Wear.
(1) Unequal pressures in the tires will cause uneven tire wear.
Innate all tires to correct pressure {par. 198).
(2) Front wheel misalinement will cause excessive tire wear.
Check front wheel alinement and make necessary corrections (par.
164).
(3) Bent wheels or damaged wheel bearings will result in uneven
tire wear. Replace wheels or bearings as necessary.
(4) Operating vehicle on a dry, hard surfaced road with front
axle engaged will result in excessive wear on the front tires.
c. Hard Steering. This condition may be caused by under-
inflated tires, steering gear in need of adjustment or lubrication,
front wheels out of alinement, or wheel bearings in need of adjust-
ment. Check these items in the sequence given and make necessary
corrections.
d. Wheels Pounding. Hub bearings that are damaged or in
need of adjustment will produce a pounding at the wheels. A bent
wheel will also cause this condition. Replace or adjust hub bearings
(par. 201 or 202), or replace wheel (par. 197), as necessary.
e. Shimmy.
(1) Unevenly worn or unevenly inflated front tires will cause
front wheels to shimmy. Replace tires or inflate to correct pressure
as necessary (par. 198).
(2) Loose or damaged front hub bearings will also cause this con-
dition. Adjust or replace bearings as necessary (par. 201 or 202).
(3) Any condition contributing to improper front wheel and axle
alinement may cause front wheel shimmy. Front axle alinement is
affected by loose steering knuckle bearings, front spring leaves
broken, spring bolts, shackles, or bushings worn, spring center bolt
broken, and a bent axle housing or chassis frame. Check front wheel
and axle alinement and make necessary corrections (par. 164). Also
check for faulty shock absorbers and replace if necessary (par. 213).
70. STEERING SYSTEM.
a. General. Proper operation of the steering system is closely
related to other units in the vehicle. Hence, whenever diagnosing
steering difficulties, other allied factors must also be checked. A

symptom indicating possible trouble in the steering system may also

be evidence of deficiency in other units, that is, front axle alinement,
front spring suspension, tire inflation, wheel and tire mounting, wheel
bearing adjustment, frame alinement, and brakes.
b. Hard Steering.
(1) If this condition exists on a vehicle just out of the repair
shop, the worm bearings, sector gear lash, or7 drag link ends may be
adjusted too tight. Check these adjustments and correct if necessary
(par. 204). Other causes listed below will result in this condition after
vehicle has been in service for some time.
(2) The most common cause of hard steering is under-inflated
tires. Inflate all tires to correct pressure (par. 198).
•158•
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70-71
(3) Lack of lubrication in the steering gear or in the steering
knuckle bearings will also cause hard steering. Lubricate as directed
in Section VIII.
(4) Inspect drag link and replace if bent (par. 207).
(5) Front wheel and axle misalinement will cause hard steering.
Check alinement and make necessary corrections (par. 164).
c. Wander or Lack of Steering Control.
(1) This condition may be caused by loose steering gear mount-
ings, pitman arm loose on pitman shaft, or too much sector gear lash.
Check these items and make necessary corrections (par. 205 or 204).
(2) Check for loose drag link ends and adjust or replace drag
link as necessary (par. 207).
(3) Check front wheel and axle alinement and make necessary
corrections (par. 164).
(4) If the condition still exists, the steering gear parts are worn,
necessitating replacement of the steering gear assembly. Report to
higher authority.
d. Road Shock Transmitted to Steering Wheel.
(1) If this condition exists on a vehicle immediately upon leaving
the repair shop, it is due to the drag link, worm bearings, or sector
gear lash being adjusted too tight. Check these adjustments and
correct as necessary (par. 204).
(2) When the condition occurs after vehicle has been in service
for some time, it may be caused by loose wheel bearings. Adjust
wheel bearings (par. 199).
e. Unequal Turning Radius to Right and Left.
(1) On a vehicle just out of the repair shop, this condition would
be caused by improperly adjusted steering knuckle stop screws, or
by the pitman arm not being properly positioned on the pitman
shaft. Remove pitman arm and install correctly (par. 205), or replace
axle assembly (pars. 168 and 169).
(2) This condition will come about on a vehicle in service by
worn steering knuckle stop screws, or by the drag link becoming
bent. Replace drag link (par. 207) or axle assembly (pars. 168 and
169).
f. Vehicle Pulls to One Side.

(1) The most common cause of this condition is unequal tire

pressures in the front tires. Inflate all tires to correct pressure (par
198).
(2) Check for damaged or loose wheel bearings, and replace or
adjust as necessary (par. 201 or 202).
(3) One front brake dragging will cause vehicle to pull to one
side. Check brake shoe adjustment and correct if necessary (par. 181).
(4) Unequal toe-in will cause the vehicle to pull toward the side
having the least toe-in. Check toe-in and make necessary corrections
(par. 164).
71. FRONT AND REAR SPRINGS,
a. Hard Riding.
(1) This condition is usually present when the vehicle is over-
loaded. Refer to nomenclature plate for correct load.
•159•
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71-72
TRUCK, 2'/,-TON, 6x6
(2) Hard riding will also result from insufficient lubrication or
frozen shackles. Lubricate shackles or remove and clean or replace as
necessary (par. 209).
b. Over Flexible.
(1) The most probable cause of this condition is insufficient fluid
in the shock absorbers. Refill shock absorbers to proper level (par.
213).
(2) Examine spring and replace if leaves are broken (par. 209
or 210).
(3) If over flexibility still exists, the shock absorbers are not
operating properly and must be replaced (par. ?13).
c. Spring Leaf Failure.
(1) Breakage of spring leaves is most commonly caused by over-
loading the vehicle or by driving at excess speed over rough terrain.
Refer to nomenclature plate for correct load, and reduce speed over
rough terrain when possible.
(2) Loose rebound clips will cause spring breakage. To prevent
this, keep rebound clips tight.
(3) Frozen shackles due to lack of lubrication will also cause
springs to break. Remove shackles and clean or replace as necessary.
Lubricate as directed in Section VIII.
(4) Grabbing brakes will sometimes cause springs to break. Refer
to paragraph 68 for causes and remedies of this condition.
d. Excessive Noise.
(1) Excessive spring noise may be caused by worn shackle bolts
or spring eye bolts, or by worn shackle or spring eye bushings. Check
for these conditions and replace bolts or springs as necessary (par.
209).
(2) Check for loose spring mounting bolts and tighten as neces-
sary.
(3) Loose or damaged rear spring seat bearings will result in
excessive noise. Examine bearings and adjust or replace if necessary
(par. 211).
72. WINCH.
a. Winch Fails to Operate When Shifted into Gear.

(1) Winch will not operate if the sliding jaw clutch is disengaged
from winch drum. Engage as directed in paragraph 24.-
(2) If the winch still fails to operate, and the drive shaft revolves
at the rear of the worm shaft housing, the shear pin is sheared off
and must be replaced (par. 24).
b. Winch Fails to Hold Load. This condition is caused by the
automatic brake lining being excessively worn or in need of adjust-
ment. Adjust brake (par. 236) or replace brake band assembly (par.
237), as necessary.
c. Excessive Heat at Brake Cover. If this condition is present,
the automatic brake is adjusted too tight, or the wrong type lining
has been installed. Adjust brake (par. 236), or replace brake band
•160*
TM 9-801
72-75
d. Winch Drum Over-runs Cable When Cable is Being
Pulled Off by Hand. The automatic brake being in need of adjust-
ment is the cause of this trouble. Adjust brake (par. 236),
e. Noisy Operation. Noisy operation is usually caused by in-
sufficient lubrication. Add lubricant as directed in Section VIII.
73. POWER HOIST.
a. Noisy Pump. Air in the oil is the most common cause of a
noisy pump. This may be caused by:
(1) Insufficient oil in cylinder. Add oil as directed in paragraph
246 or 247.
(2) Racing engine while pump is being operated. Run engine at
slower speed.
(3) Failure of operator to disengage power take-off after hoist
has reached extreme raised position. Move hoist control lever to
"HOLD" position, then disengage power take-off.
b. Hoist Fails to Lift.
(1) This condition may be caused by insufficient oil in hoist
cylinder. Check for oil leaks and make necessary corrections or re-
place cylinder (par. 246 or 247). If no oil leaks are found, add oil
(par. 246 or 247).
(2) Check for sheared drive shaft keys and replace keys as re-
quired (par. 245).
(3) Bent or damaged hoist lifting linkage (levers and arms) will
cause lifting failure. Damaged parts must be replaced.
(4) Overloading or improper load distribution will cause failure
of hoist to lift.
(5) Hoist will not lift if the valve control linkage is improperly
installed. Install linkage correctly (par. 244).
74. WATER TANK PUMP.
a. Refer to References in Appendix for TM covering this pump.
Section XIV
ENGINE DESCRIPTION, DATA, MAINTENANCE, AND
ADJUSTMENT ON VEHICLE
75. DESCRIPTION AND TABULATED DATA.
a. Description. The engine is a six-cylinder, in-line, valve-in-
head type, three-point mounted in front of chassis. Engine and ac-

cessories are accessible for service after hood is raised. Side panel
may also be removed for further accessibility (fig. 57).
736603 0-47-11 • 161'

75
•162•
FRONT
TM 9-801
LEFT SIDE
RIGHT SIDE
RA PD 333031
Figure 57—Engine Accessibility

TM 9-801
75-76
b. Tabulated Data.
(1) GENERAL.
Engine type 6 cyl.—valve-in-head
Bore and stroke 3% x 4 in.
Oil pan capacity See Lubrication Order
(Section VIII)
Cooling system capacity 19 qt
(2) ADJUSTMENT DATA.
Valve Clearance (hot)
Intake 0.012 in.
Exhaust 0.016 in.
Spark plug gap 0.025 in.
Distributor point opening 0.018—0.024 in.
Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Torque
Preliminary (par. 79) 35 ft-lb
Final (par. 79) 70 ft-lb
76. TUNE-UP.
a. General. An engine tune-up is an orderly process of checking
engine and accessory equipment to determine if they are within
original specifications, and to accomplish such adjustments and re-
pairs so that new engine performance is restored. This tune-up pro-
cedure can be accomplished at regular intervals or whenever per-
formance of engine indicates need of such operations.
b. Vacuum Reading. Connect a vacuum gage at intake mani-
fold at windshield wiper connection. Make carbureter idling adjust-
ments (par. 94). With engine running at normal idling speed, the
vacuum gage should read about 18 to 21 inches and pointer should
be steady. An excessively fluctuating needle between 10 and 15
inches may indicate a defective cylinder head gasket or valve. An
extremely low reading may indicate a leak in the intake manifold
or gasket. Accelerate and decelerate the engine quickly. If the gage
indicator fails to drop to approximately 2 inches as the throttle is
opened, and then fails to recoil to at least 24 inches as throttle is
closed, it may be an indication of diluted oil, poor piston ring sealing,
or abnormal restriction in the carbureter, air cleaner, or exhaust.

The above readings apply to sea level—there will be approximately

a 1-inch drop for each 1,000 feet of altitude.
c. Compression Test. A compression test may also be made,
in order to determine the need of internal repair before tune-up pro-
cedures are accomplished. This test will indicate condition of pistons,
rings, and valve mechanism. Compression pressure depends upon
cranking speeds, engine temperature, oil viscosity, compression
ratio, and the condition of the engine. Make test in following manner:
(1) Remove all spark plugs. Turn ignition switch "OFF" and
pull hand throttle button all the way out. Insert a compression gage
in one spark plug hole. Crank engine 10 or 12 turns with cranking
•163•
TM 9-801
76-77
motor. Note highest gage reading while engine is being cranked. Take
a reading at each cylinder in the same manner.
(2) Analyze the readings. While readings on some engines may be
higher than on others due to conditions mentioned in subparagraph
b above, the readings in any one engine should be reasonably high
(100 Ib or more), and all cylinders should show uniform readings
within approximately 10 pounds.
(a) Pour a liberal amount of light engine oil through spark plug
hole in cylinder having low reading. Allow sufficient time for oil to
spread around rings. Take another reading. If compression is ap-
preciably increased on piston so treated piston or rings require re-
placement. If no change in compression reading is noted, check
valve mechanism.
(b) An extremely low reading in two adjacent cylinders may in-
dicate a cylinder head gasket leak.
(c) If compression cannot be corrected with operations allocated
to echelon making test, notify higher authority for proper correction.
d. Tune-up Sequence. Drain and refill crankcase, then service
oil filter and crankcase vent cleaner. Proceed with following opera-
tions in sequence shown.
(1) Service and adjust spark plugs (par. 89).
(2) Clean and tighten battery and ignition cables.
(3) Test and service battery (par. 120).
(4) Service distributor cap, rotor, and points (par. 88).
(5) Check ignition timing (par. 87).
(6) Check and adjust valve clearance (par. 77).
(7) Service carbureter (par. 94), fuel filter (par. 98), air cleaner
(par. 99), fuel pump (par. 97), and fuel lines (par. 100).
77. VALVE CLEARANCE AND ADJUSTMENT.
a. Preliminary. Warm up engine to operating temperature (at
least 160° F). Allow engine to run at idling speed while adjustments
are made.
b. Remove Valve Rocker Arm Cover. Disconnect crankcase
ventilator tube from fitting at the valve rocker arm cover. Remove
two valve cover retaining stud nuts, then remove valve cover.
c. Adjust Valve Clearance. With engine hot and idling, insert

feeler gage (0.012 in. for intake and 0.016 in. for exhaust) between
rocker arm and valve stem at each valve. Using tool similar to that
illustrated in figure 58, or a wrench and screw driver, loosen rocker
arm ball stud nut, and tighten or loosen stud until proper clearance
is obtained. Tighten nut, and recheck clearance.
d. Install Valve Rocker Arm Cover. Check cover mating sur-
face for distortion. Install cover over gasket, then install and tighten
stud nuts just snugly. Only a very light pressure is required to pre-
vent leakage if cover and gasket are in good condition. If a leak
occurs, do not attempt to correct by excessively tightening nuts.
Check gasket [(GM-6107400) G85-01-007771 for particles of dirt,
breaks, or mis-location, and replace if necessary. After cover has
been installed, connect ventilator tube to fitting on cover.
•164•
TM 9-801
78
RA PD 307347
Figure 58—Method of Adjusting Valve Clearance
78. INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS.
a. Description. Intake and exhaust manifolds are each one-
piece type bolted together to form a complete unit. Unit is mounted
to cylinder head, with gaskets and pilot rings between cylinder head
and manifolds (fig. 59).
b. Removal.
(1) PRELIMINARY OPERATIONS. Remove air cleaner (par. 99) and
carbureter and governor (pars. 94 and 96). Disconnect ventilator
tube at valve cover and at valve in intake manifold. Unscrew venti-
lator valve and adapter from intake manifold. Disconnect wiper
vacuum line from tee on manifold, then disconnect and remove
vacuum check valve. Remove horn from intake manifold. Remove
winterization primer connections at manifold if vehicle is so equipped.
(2) DISCONNECT EXHAUST PIPE. Remove three bolts from ex-
haust pipe and manifold flange. Separate flanges and remove gasket.
(3) REMOVE MANIFOLDS FROM CYLINDER HEAD. Remove eight
manifold to cylinder head stud nuts. Remove four manifold washers
and four manifold clamps. Remove two stud nuts and washers at
outer ends of exhaust manifold. Pull manifold unit from cylinder
head. Remove gaskets and pilot rings.
(4) SEPARATE MANIFOLDS. Remove two exhaust to intake mani-
fold cap screws and lock washers. Remove two nuts and lock washers
from exhaust to intake manifold studs.
e. Installation.
(1) INSPECTION. Inspect manifold for warped condition. Check
on surface plate or with straight edge (fig. 60). Variation should not
exceed J^ inch. Check clearance between end studs and manifold
stud holes. If clearance of approximately Vfe inch does not exist, file
stud holes to provide necessary clearance before installing manifold.
Check condition of exhaust manifold heat control valve. Remove
rust, scale, carbon deposits, and any gasket material from face of
cylinder head ports. Clean pilot ring seats.
•165•
TM 9-801
78
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
MANIFOLDS INSTALLED
STUD WASHER AND NUT
FRONT GASKET
PILOTie^«. -w .mm. "*âm CENTER GASKET
REAR GASKET
INSTALLING MANIFOLD
RA PD 332859
Figure 59—Intake and Exhaust Manifolds Installed
(2) ASSEMBLE MANIFOLDS. Position exhaust to intake manifold
gasket [(GM-838290) G501-30-02340] over intake to exhaust manifold
studs. Install two studs, nuts, and lock washers on intake to exhaust
manifold studs. Install two cap screws and lock washers. Tighten
cap screws and stud nuts only finger-tight.
(3) INSTALL PILOTS AND MANIFOLD GASKETS. Position pilots in
cylinder head intake ports solidly and not cocked. Install three
manifold gaskets—front and rear (GM-6107380), and center (GM-
6107381)—on cylinder head manifold studs.
(4) INSTALL MANIFOLDS. Position manifold assembly over ends
of studs and over pilot rings. Front and rear manifold studs must be
centered in exhaust manifold flange holes. Clearance of approximately
Jfe inch should exist around each stud. Install washers and nuts on
•166*
TM
9-801
78
these studs. Install four manifold clamps and washers over studs.
Install clamp stud nuts, making certain that clamps fit over mani-
fold flanges evenly. Tighten all stud nuts alternately.
(5) TIGHTEN MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY. Tighten exhaust to intake
manifold cap screws and stud nuts firmly.
(6) CONNECT EXHAUST PIPE FLANGE. Insert the three bolts up
through exhaust pipe flange and manifold. Make sure that flange
seal and gasket (GM-2017499) are in place (par. 103). Install nuts
on bolts and tighten firmly and alternately. Install lock nuts.
INTAKE
EXHAUST MANIFOLD DISASSEMBLED
STRAIGHT EDGE,
CHECKING FLANGES
DA PD 33291*
Figure 60—Intake and Exhaust Manifold Inspection
•167•
TM 9-801
78-79
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
(7) COMPLETE THE INSTALLATION. Install ventilator valve and
adapter into manifold. Connect ventilator tube at valve and rocker
arm cover. Install and connect vacuum check valve, then install
wiper vacuum connection to tee. Install "carbureter and governor
(pars. 94 and 96), then air cleaner (par. 99). Install horn on intake
manifold.
(8) RETIGHTEN. Run engine through warm-up period, then check
tightness of manifold stud nuts.
79. CYLINDER HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT.
a. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT MANIFOLD. Remove ventilator tube from valve
cover and ventilator valve. Remove air cleaner brace cap screw at
cylinder head (when clamp-on type cleaner is used). Disconnect
wiper vacuum line at manifold. Disconnect line at vacuum check
valve. Disconnect gas line at carbureter, then throttle and choke
connections at carbureter. Remove manifold to head stud nuts and
clamps. Disconnect manifold at exhaust pipe. Pull manifold, carbure-
ter, and air-cleaner as an assembly from head.
(2) REMOVE WATER BY-PASS TUBE. Partially drain cooling sys-
tem. Disconnect water by-pass tube at rear of cylinder head, and at
front at water outlet fitting.
(3) REMOVE IGNITION COIL, SPARK PLUG WIRES, AND OIL FIL-
TER. Remove ignition coil (par. 90). Remove wires from spark plugs.
Remove oil filter (par. 81).
(4) DISCONNECT OIL LINE AND THERMAL UNIT. Disconnect oil
line at front of cylinder head. Remove temperature gage thermal
unit from cylinder head.
(5) DISCONNECT WATER OUTLET. Remove two cap screws which
attach thermostat housing to cylinder head. Remove gasket.
(6) REMOVE VALVE ROCKER ARM AND VALVE PUSH ROD COVERS.
Remove valve rocker arm cover. Remove oil filler tube and bracket;
then remove 13 cross-recessed cap screws which attach valve push
rod cover to cylinder head and block. Remove push rod cover and
gasket.
(7) REMOVE VALVE ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY (fig. 61). Remove
10 cap screws and lock washers which attach rocker arm shaft
brackets to head. Remove nuts from the two valve cover studs. Re-
move overflow tube located on rear bracket. Lift rocker arms, shaft,
and brackets from head as an assembly. Lift valve push rods out
of engine.
(8) REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD. Remove 14 cylinder head to cyl-
inder block cap screws, then air cleaner bracket stud. Lift cylinder
head straight up from block.
b. Installation.
(1) CLEAN CYLINDER HEAD AND BLOCK. Thoroughly clean gas-
ket surface of cylinder block and head. Remove all dirt and carbon
from bolt holes and from cylinder bores.
(2) POSITION CYLINDER HEAD GASKET. Place gasket (GM-
2136676) carefully on cylinder block with side of gasket marked
•168•
TM 9-801
79
ARRANGEMENT OF ROCKER ARMS
REAR
A LEFT-HAND BRACKET SCREWS
B VALVE COVER STUDS
C RIGHT-HAND BRACKET SCREWS
FRONT
D OVERFLOW PIPE
E OVERFLOW PIPE WASHER
F PIPE RETAINING SCREW
RA PD 332957
Figure 61 —Valve Rocker Arm Assembly Installed
"TOP" toward cylinder head. This is essential to aline water passage
holes in gasket with passages in block and head.
(3) ALINE GASKET. Maintaining alinement of cylinder head and
gasket with block can be simplified by use of guide pins made from
four cylinder head bolts (fig. 62). Insert the guide pins in the four
end bolt holes of the block.
(4) INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD. Install cylinder head over guide
pins, then lower carefully onto block. Insert all cylinder head cap
screws except where guide pins are installed. Tighten just finger-tight.
Use screw drive to remove guide pins, then install four cap screws in
end holes finger-tight.
(5) PRELIMINARY TIGHTENING. Cylinder head cap screws must
be tightened evenly and in a definite sequence to prevent distortion
of head. There are two definite sequences, preliminary and final.
Using sequence as shown in figure 63, start at bolt No. 1, and tighten
all bolts in sequence shown with a torque wrench to 35 foot-pounds.
Final tightening is described in step (7) below.
(6) INSTALL VALVE ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY. Install push rods in
place with "cup" end towards top. There are 10 cap screws which
attach rocker arm brackets to head. The cap screws on left-hand side
•169•
TM 9-801
79
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
are 3% inches long, while those on the right-hand side are 1 % inches
long. These must be installed in following manner.
(a) Locate rocker arm assembly on head in position shown in
figure 61. Make certain that rocker arms are positioned over push
rods correctly. Install three 3 % -inch cap screws in bracket from
front to rear on left side. Tighten finger-tight. Install the two stud
nuts on valve cover studs finger-tight.
(b) Thoroughly coat threads of the six 1 J^-inch cap screws with
joint and thread compound; then install cap screws at right-hand
brackets. After all bracket screws are finally tightened, apply a
small amount of compound to under side of each tapped hole ac-
cessible in spark plug recesses. NOTE: C7se of compound on right-
hand bracket cap screws -is only necessary on cylinder heads
bearing casting or part number 6107412. On heads bearing
number 2136477, the tapped holes do not extend through the
spark plug recesses.
(c) Install lock washer over end of left rear bracket cap screw,
then install overflow pipe retainer clip over end of bolt. Position pipe
gasket (GM-6107446) on rear bracket. Install cap screw and over-
flow pipe on rear bracket. Finally, tighten all bracket cap screws and
stud nuts.
(7) FINAL TIGHTEN CYLINDER HEAD CAP SCREWS. Using se-
quence as shown in figure 64, tighten all cap screws to 70 foot-pounds.
INSTALLING OR REMOVING CYLINDER HEAD
BOLT NO. 838820
GUIDE PIN DIMENSIONS
RA PD 33298S
Figure 62—Installing or Remaving Cylinder Head
•170•
TM 9-801
79
PRELIMINARY TIGHTENING WITH TORQUE WRENCH
SEQUENCE OF TIGHTENING
IA PD 332955
Figure 63—Preliminary Tightening Using Torque
Wrench (41-W-3630J
Use special socket wrench (41-W-2964-700) with torque wrench
(41-W-3630). Tighten cap screws on right side first in sequence
shown, then tighten cap screws on left side. An additional check of
cap screws must be made after engine has been warmed up.
(8) INSTALL PUSH ROD COVER. Install cover and gasket (GM-
2135926) to block. Install oil filler tube and bracket, attach indicator
tube bracket to block.
(9) COMPLETE THE INSTALLATION.
(a) Install oil filter (par. 81).
Install thermal unit in head—tighten firmly.
Install spark plug wires in correct sequence (par. 88).
Connect oil line at front of head.
Install ignition coil (par. 90).
Connect manifolds to head and exhaust pipe (par. 78).
(g) Make throttle and choke connections at carbureter. Connect
gas line to carbureter. Connect vacuum line to check valve connec-
tion. Connect wiper line. If used, install air cleaner brace to stud
on head.
(h) Install thermostat housing to head. Use new gasket if neces-
sary [(GM-838297) G85-31-06280].
(i) Install water by-pass tube at rear of head, then at by-pass
fitting.
(10) WARM UP ENGINE. Fill cooling system—adjust valve clear-
(*)
(c)
(rf)
(e)
•171'
TM 9-801
79-80
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
ance to 0.012 inch intake and 0.016 inch exhaust (par. 77). Start en-
gine and warm up to at least 160° F.
(11) RETIGHTEN CYLINDER HEAD CAP SCREWS. After engine has
warmed up, check tightness of cylinder head cap screws (70 ft-lb)
following sequence shown in figure 64. Recheck valve clearance and
install valve cover. Install ventilator tube to cover and to ventilator
valve.
80. OIL PAN.
a. Description. The deep sump oil pan assembly comprises an
oil pan, sump-like cover, and an oil cleaner through which the oil is
circulated. The oil cleaner extends into the cover, however, it is
attached to the oil pan. Do not attempt to remove oil pan and cover
as an assembly. Such an attempt will damage cleaner.
b. Draining Pan (fig. 65). Remove drain plug assembly. Thor-
oughly clean screen and deflector before reinstalling. Check condi-
tion of plug gasket (GM-2137876).
c. Oil Pan Cover Gasket Replacement. Remove drain plug
assembly. Remove cover attaching screws (fig. 66). Cover may then
be lowered and gasket (GM-2137800) replaced.
FINAL TIGHTENING WITH TORQUE WRENCH AND SPECIAL SOCKET
SEQUENCE
RA PD 332946
Figure 64—Final Tightening (Torque Wrench 41 - W-3630
With Socket Wrench 41 -W-2964-700J
•172'
TM 9-801
80
•DRAIN PLUG
OIL PAN AND COVER INSTALLED
DRAIN PLUG ASSEMBLY REMOVAL
RA PD 332926
Figure 65—OH Pan, Cover, and Drain Plug Installed
d. Oil Pan Removal.
(1) REMOVE COVER AND DISCONNECT CLEANER. Remove oil pan
cover. Disconnect oil cleaner outlet connection from pump inlet
(fig. 65). Do not remove the oil cleaner from oil pan. The
cleaner and oil pan must be removed as an assembly.
(2) REMOVE UNDERPAN AND EXTENSION. Remove four cross-
recessed screws which attach underpan to flywheel housing. Remove
two cross-recessed screws which attach extension to housing.
(3) REMOVE OIL PAN AND CLEANER. Remove oil level indicator
tube at pan. Loosen oil pan attaching screws alternately. Remove
screws in same manner while supporting pan. Lower pan together
with cleaner carefully.
e. Oil Pan Installation.
(1) PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. Clean cover and oil pan with
dry-cleaning solvent. Discard all gaskets.
(2) INSTALL GASKETS AND SEALS. Install new right (GM-6107364)
and left (GM-6107365) side oil pan gaskets on block with gasket
cement. Carefully position front and rear seals (GM-2071435) (gas-
kets) in grooves of main bearing caps.
(3) INSTALL OIL PAN ASSEMBLY. Carefully position oil pan,
making certain that front and rear seals in bearing cap grooves are
not tilted or pushed out of place. Secure oil pan in position with two
screws and lock washers on each side of oil pan. Install balance of
cross-recessed screws finger-tight, then install the four cap screws
and lock washer, one at each side of front and rear bearing caps.
Install oil cleaner outlet line connection to oil pump inlet and tighten
securely. Tighten screws firmly.
(4) INSTALL FLYWHEEL UNDERPAN AND EXTENSION. Position and
install extension on flywheel housing with two cross-recessed screws
and lock washers. Tighten screws securely. Position and install fly-
wheel underpan to flywheel housing, with four cross-recessed screws

and lock washers, then tighten screws firmly.
•173•
TM 9-801
80
OIL PAN COVER REMOVED-SIDE VIEW
CDE
OIL PAN COVER REMOVED—BOTTOM VIEW
A OIL PAN
B OIL CLEANER ASSEMBLY
C CAP SCREW
D OIL CLEANER TO PUMP TUBE
E TUBING NUT
F TUBING NUT CONNECTOR
G OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY
Figure 66—Oi l Pan Cover Removed
RA PD 332902
(5) INSTALL OIL PAN COVER. Install a new gasket (GM-2137800),
using shellac, on under side of oil pan, then install oil pan cover less
drain plug assembly.
(6) INSTALL DRAIN PLUG ASSEMBLY. Clean screen, deflector tube,
plug. Use new gasket (GM-2137876). Make certain that screen is in
good condition. Install drain plug assembly in oil pan cover and
tighten securely. Install oil level indicator tube. Refill crankcase with
proper lubricant.
•174•
TM 9-801
81
81. OIL FILTER
a. Description. The replaceable element type oil filter is
mounted on right-hand side of engine. A portion of the oil passing
through the valve rocker arm oil line is directed through the oil
filter where foreign elements are absorbed. Oil filtered in this man-
ner is then returned directly to the engine oil pan through the fuel
pump mounting.
b. Oil Filter Element Replacement (fig. 67).
(1) REMOVE ELEMENT. Remove attaching nut and lock washer
and remove cover with gasket and spring. Remove drain plug and
drain oil. Oil filter element may now be removed. Clean oil filter
INSTALLED
A COVER STUD NUT
B NUT GASKET
C FILTER COVER
D COVER GASKET
E COVER SPRING
F ELEMENT
G INLET TUBE CONNECTOR
H SHELL AND STUD
I DRAIN PLUG
J OUTLET TUBE CONNECTOR
K CLAMP BOLT
L FILTER CLAMP
RA PD 332931
Figure 67—Oil Filter Installed and Disassembled
•175•
TM 9-801
81-82
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
body and cover with clean rag dipped in dry-cleaning solvent. Wipe
all parts dry with a clean cloth.
(2) INSTALL ELEMENT. Install drain plug in bottom of oil filter.
Install new filter element [(GM-1595502) G104-15-69149] in oil filter
body (with a new cover gasket (GM-1504233) in place). Install
spring and cover with gasket, using cover nut and gasket [(GM-
853269) G150-01-94055].
c. Filter Assembly Replacement (fig. 67). Remove four filter
clamp to bracket screws. Disconnect inlet (GM-2137793) and outlet
[(GM-2136146) G501-04-07830] tubes at bottom of filter at filter.
Withdraw filter and clamp as an assembly. Loosen upper and lower
clamp screws to remove filter from clamp. Reinstall in reverse
manner.
82. CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM.
Description. The ventilation of the crankcase, and the re-
a.
moval of fuel and water vapors within the crankcase are accomplished
by the^circulation of air actuated by manifold vacuum. Air is drawn
into crankcase through breather filter (at oil filler tube) and after
circulating through the engine, the air is drawn upward and out of
the engine through the valve rocker arm cover, entering combustion
Figure 68—Crankcase Vent Cleaner
RA PD 332929
•176•
TM 9-801
82
RETAINING NUT
SEAT
SPRING
CROSS SECTION OF VALVE
TUBE AND VALVE INSTALLED
RA PD 332927
Figure 69—Crankcase Vent Tube and Valve
chamber of engine through intake manifold. The manifold vacuum
tube is connected to a fitting at the center of the valve rocker arm
cover. The opposite end of the tube is connected to a fitting installed
at the center of the intake manifold and contains a spring loaded
plunger type valve which acts as restriction for vapor flow.
b. Cleaning Ventilator Cleaner (fig. 68). Loosen wing nut,
then withdraw body and element. Clean filter element and reservoir
in dry-cleaning solvent and permit element to drain. Fill reservoir
with seasonal grade engine oil. Dip element in same oil and allow
it to drain. Check condition of breather shell gasket [(GM-1543016)
G501-01-94009]. Insert element in reservoir and reinstall to adapter.
Tighten wing nut firmly. Check condition of oil filler cap gasket.
c. Ventilator Tube and Valve Removal (fig. 69). Disconnect
tube at rocker arm cover fitting and at valve adapter elbow. Remove
valve from intake manifold tee fitting. Remove nut from valve body
which permits removal of restrictor valve and spring from body.
Place all valve parts in dry-cleaning solvent to loosen accumulated
foreign matter. Blow parts dry and clean, using compressed air. In-
stall spring and restrictor valve inside valve body and thread nut into
body. Tighten nut securely.
d. Ventilator Tube and Valve Installation. Apply anti-seize,
mica-base compound to male threads of valve. Install valve on intake
manifold tee. Install tube connection on valve elbow finger-tight.
Install opposite end of tube on valve rocker arm fitting, making cer-
tain that tube is alined properly, then tighten connections firmly.
736603 O - 47 - 12
177-
TM 9-801
83-84
Section XV
ENGINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
83. GENERAL.
a. Operation Sequence. Removal and installation procedures
outlined in this section are the result of actual try-out. Sequence of
the operations are such as will permit the use of several mechanics
if necessary, to accomplish the various disconnect operations without
interference. One mechanic may perform disconnect operations;
however, two men are required when the actual dismounting and
mounting operations are accomplished.
b. Facilities Required. A chain hoist, suitable hoist support
or A-frame, engine sling (41-S-3832-7), and a hydraulic jack are re-
quired, in addition to regular mechanic's tools.
84. REMOVAL.
a. Preliminary (Key letters in text refer to fig. 70). Raise hood
and disconnect hood bracket (B) and bond straps (A) so that hood
can be rested against windshield. Disconnect dash to hood side panel
bond straps (C) and remove right and left side panels. Drain cooling
system at radiator and cylinder block. Drain oil from crankcase and
transmission. Disconnect cranking motor cable from battery.
b. Front of Engine.
(1) DISCONNECT RADIATOR HOSES. Disconnect radiator upper
and lower hoses. Open clips which attach front wiring harness to
upper portion of radiator.
(2) DISCONNECT BRUSH GUARD. Remove six bolts, nuts, and
internal-external toothed lock washers which attach brush guard to
right- and left-hand fenders, three at each fender. Remove eight
bolts, nuts, and internal-external toothed lock washers which attach
brush guard to front right- and left-hand side panels, four at each
side. Remove two nuts, bolts, and internal-external toothed lock
washers (Z) which attach two radiator support braces to radiator'
support, one at each side of radiator.
(3) DISCONNECT RADIATOR AND FRONT ENGINE SUPPORT BOLTS.
Remove two nuts and internal-external toothed lock washers which
attach bond straps to front of radiator bottom tank. After straps are
removed, reinstall nuts and washers on studs finger-tight. Remove

two nuts, a washer, and spring from each radiator support bolt. Re-
move cotter pins, castellated nuts, and lock washers from front en-
gine support bolts (fig. 72). Disconnect two frame to engine oil pan
bond straps (V) from engine.
(4) REMOVE RADIATOR TIE ROD. Remove two nuts and internal-
external toothed lock washers from tie rod at rear side of dash. Re-
move two screws and internal-external toothed lock washers attach-
ing tie rod to radiator support. Lift tie rod up, pull forward, and re-
move from vehicle.
•178•
TM 9-401
(5) REMOVE BRUSH GUARD AND RADIATOR ASSEMBLY. Remove
brush guard and radiator as an assembly by pulling assembly away
from front of engine and upward away from front crossmember.
c. Right-hand Side of Engine.
(1) DISCONNECT FUEL LINES. Disconnect flexible tube at fuel
pump. Disconnect metal line at rear of fuel filter (H), then spring
A DASH TO HOOD BOND STRAPS
8 HOOD BRACKET
C DASH TO HOOD SIDE PANEL BOND STRAPS
D IGNITION COIL FILTER WIRE
E HAND THROTTLE CONTROL
F CHOKE CONTROL
G WINDSHIELD WIPER TUBE
H TANK TO FUEL FILTER LINE
I HYDROVAC VACUUM LINE
J CRANKING MOTOR TO AMMETER CABLE
K BATTERY TO CRANKING MOTOR CABLE
L DASH TO VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER
BOND STRAP
M TRANSMISSION MAIN DRIVE GEAR SHAFT
N HEAT INDICATOR THERMAL UNIT
O ENGINE TO OIL PRESSURE GAGE TUBE
P GENERATOR TERMINAL WIRES
Q BRAKE PEDAL ROD
R EXHAUST PIPE
S RIGHT-HAND REAR ENGINE SUPPORT
INSULATOR ASSEMBLY
T LEFT-HAND REAR ENGINE SUPPORT
INSULATOR ASSEMBLY
U FRAME TO FLYWHEEL HOUSING BOND STRAP
V FRAME TO ENGINE OIL PAN BOND STRAPS
W ENGINE FRONT SUPPORT ASSEMBLY
X RADIATOR CUSHION
Y HORN TERMINAL WIRES
Z RADIATOR SUPPORT BRACES
Figure 70—Items Which Must Be Disconnected
to Remove Engine
RA PD 332958
•179•
TM 9-801
84
line toward frame side rail to prevent damage to line during engine
removal.
(2) REMOVE FUEL FILTER. Remove two bolts, nuts, and lock
washers which attach fuel filter to bracket and remove filter.
(3) DISCONNECT CRANKING MOTOR TERMINAL WIRES. Remove
wires and cable from cranking motor (J and K). Reinstall washer and
nut on terminal finger-tight.
(4) DISCONNECT HYDROVAC VACUUM LINE. Loosen clamp bolt
and disconnect flexible vacuum line (I) at rear of cranking motor,
just above flywheel housing.
(5) DISCONNECT IGNITION COIL WIRE. Remove nut which secures
wire (D) to ignition coil positive (+) terminal and remove wire. Re-
install nut on coil terminal finger-tight, and loop wire around hood
hinge on cowl. Disconnect radio suppression bond strap (L) from
valve rocker arm cover.
d. Left-hand Side of Engine.
(1) REMOVE AIR CLEANER.
(a) Clamp-on Type. Loosen clamp bolt at throat of air cleaner,
loosen nut at top of air cleaner brace, then lift air cleaner assembly
from carbureter.
(b) Flange Type. Unscrew wing nut at center of cover, then
lift cleaner off center tube.
(2) DISCONNECT CARBURETER LINKAGE AND WINDSHIELD WIPER
TUBE. Disconnect choke control (F), and hand throttle control (E)
from carbureter. Disconnect flexible windshield wiper tube (G) from
metal tube which is attached to intake manifold.
(3) DISCONNECT WIRES FROM HORN AND GENERATOR. Discon-
nect wires (Y) from horn, then reinstall screws and washers finger-
tight. Disconnect wires (P) from generator, then reinstall nuts and
washers on respective terminals.
(4) DISCONNECT EXHAUST PIPE AND ACCELERATOR ROD. Remove
bolts and nuts which attach exhaust pipe (R) to manifold, then
separate pipe and flange from manifold. Remove cotter pin which
secures accelerator rod in carbureter control lever and remove rod
from lever.
(5) REMOVE THERMAL UNIT. Unscrew heat indicator thermal

unit (N) from cylinder head. Care must be used that unit and line
are not damaged.
(6) DISCONNECT OIL GAGE TUBE. Disconnect flexible oil gage
tube (O), using two wrenches to prevent twisting flexible tube.
e. Inside of Cab.
(1) DISCONNECT ACCELERATOR PEDAL AND CRANKING MOTOR
BUTTON. Remove cotter pin and clevis pin from accelerator pedal,
then free rod from pedal. Reinsert pin in pedal and install cotter pin
temporarily. Unscrew button from cranking motor cross shaft lever.
(2) REMOVE TOE BOARD PLATE. Remove screws and washers
which attach toe board plate around steering column and clutch and
brake pedals and remove plate and seal assembly.
(3) REMOVE FLOOR AND TOE BOARDS. Remove 12 floor board
cap screws and external toothed lock washers. Remove five toe board
cap screws and external toothed washers. Place transfer case shift
•ISO•
TM 9-801
84-85
leveis in neutral and pull hand brake lever back; then lift seal off
over levers. Move shift levers as necessary and lift out floor board.
Lift toe board from cab.
(4) REMOVE CRANKING MOTOR CROSS SHAFT ASSEMBLY. Remove
cotter pin and washer from cross shaft lever to cranking motor lever
rod. Disconnect cranking motor lever pull back spring. Remove four
cap screws and lock washers which attach cranking motor cross shaft
assembly on clutch housing. Lift cross shaft and two spacer blocks
away from housing. Remove cotter pin and clevis pin attaching
brake pedal pull rod to brake pedal to disconnect rod from brake pedal.
f. Under Vehicle.
(1) REMOVE CLUTCH AND BRAKE PEDAL AND BRACKET ASSEM-
BLY. Disconnect clutch pedal pull back spring from adjusting link
and unhook pedal from link. Remove two cap screws and lock washers
which attach spring clip to clutch housing. Remove three cap screws
and lock washers which attach pedal and bracket assembly to clutch
housing and transmission and lift out pedal and bracket assembly.
(2) REMOVE FLYWHEEL UNDERPAN. Remove four screws and
lock washers which attach flywheel underpan to clutch housing, then
disconnect radio suppression bond strap (U).
(3) REMOVE REAR MOTOR SUPPORT BOLTS. Remove bolts on
right- and left-hand sides of engine at rear motor support brackets
(fig. 72).
(4) POSITION JACK UNDER TRANSMISSION. Place jack under
transmission. Position jack so that it will not interfere with engine
removal.
(5) DISCONNECT TRANSMISSION. Remove lock wire from heads
of two clutch housing to transmission lower cap screws, accessible
from inner side of housing. Remove both cap screws, then remove
two clutch housing to transmission upper cap screws.
g. Withdraw Engine. /
(1) Install engine sling (41-S-3832-7) on engine. Take up tension
on hoist, and raise transmission jack slightly to take load.
(2) Hoist engine in short stages and at same time raise trans-
mission slightly to prevent weight o/ transmission resting on trans-
mission main drive gear shaft (M).

(3) Continue to raise engine slowly and at same time pull engine
toward front to clear transmission main drive gear shaft and cowl.
CAUTION: Do not permit clutch release bearing and support
assembly to drop from release fork. When engine is raised enough
to clear side support brackets, continue to hoist until oil pan will
clear front crossmember. Spring front side panels apart slightly to
clear engine and pull engine out from front of chassis (fig. 71).
85. INSTALLATION.
a. Preliminary Instructions (Key letters in text refer to fig.
70). Before installing engine in chassis, the engine front support
assembly (W) must be removed and inspected for fit in lower retainer
and upper plate.
(1) REMOVE ENGINE FRONT SUPPORT ASSEMBLY. Remove cotter
pin and nut from two bolts attaching engine front support assembly
•181 •
TM 9-801
85
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
Figure 71 —Engine Remaval or Installation
RA PD 332967
to front crossmember. Drive bolts up out of crossmember and sup-
port assembly and lift assembly off crossmember.
(2) CHECK CLEARANCE (fig. 72). Fit front support assembly into
lower retainer and position upper plate on top. With parts held to-
gether firmly, determine if rubber support assembly fits tight be-
tween upper plate and lower retainer. Also check engine mounting
bushings to be sure they project above upper plate. If rubber sup-
port is loose between upper plate and lower retainer, or if bushings
do not project above upper plate, install a new support assembly.
Check clearance between upper plate and lower retainer at point in-
dicated in figure 72. If clearance is more than % inch, a new lower
retainer must be installed.
(3) INSTALL ENGINE FRONT SUPPORT ASSEMBLY. Place front
support assembly in lower retainer and position upper plate on top.
Position the assembly on front crossmember with curved edge of
upper plate toward front. Insert two bolts down through upper
plate, support assembly, lower retainer, and crossmember. If used
support assembly is being reinstalled, install nuts on bolts, tighten
firmly, and install cotter pins. If new support assembly is being in-
stalled, clearance between upper plate and lower retainer must be
checked before bolts are tightened (fig. 72). If clearance is less than
?(54 inch, file or grind top of lower retainer until proper clearance is
obtained. Do not use shims. If clearance is more than % inch, install
•182•
TM
9-801
85
new lower retainer. Tighten nuts and install cotter pins. Position oil
shield over front support assembly.
b. Mount Engine in Chassis. Make certain that insulators
(S and T) on rear engine supports are in good condition before in-
stalling engine. Position and secure lifting hooks on engine assembly
so as to properly balance engine, then lift and position engine over
chassis. Carefully lower engine assembly until clutch housing recess
is properly alined with transmission main drive gear shaft. Make sure
clutch release bearing and support assembly is in place in clutch re-
lease fork. Push engine assembly carefully and firmly toward rear
of vehicle; at the same time guide transmission shaft into clutch
release bearing. While rocking engine slowly from side to side, push
engine toward transmission until shaft splines engage hub of clutch
disc. Lift or lower engine as necessary to seat shaft in clutch disc hub
properly. Push engine assembly toward transmission until clutch
housing face seats solidly against transmission case. Lower jack
located under transmission, while lowering engine assembly in place.
(1) ATTACH TRANSMISSION TO CLUTCH HOUSING. Install and
tighten two clutch housing to transmission lower cap screws, then
two upper cap screws and lock washers. Insert lock wire through
heads of lower cap screws, draw wire taut, and twist ends securely.
(2) INSTALL REAR MOTOR SUPPORT BOLTS. Aline rear motor sup-
port insulators (S and T) with brackets. With a lock washer installed
over end of bolt, carefully screw each bolt into place (fig. 72). Make
ENGINE FRONT
SUPPORT ASSEMBLY
FRONT
CROSSMEMBER
ENGINE REAR
SUPPORT BRACKET
ENGINE FRONT MOUNTING
ENGINE REAR MOUNTING
BUSHING PROJECTS
ABOVE UPPER PLATE
UPPER PLATE
ENGINE MOUNTING BUSHING

SUPPORT TO FRAME BOLT \ LOWER RETAINER
CHECK CLEARANCE FRONT SUPPORT ASSEMBLY
AT THIS POINT
ENGINE FRONT SUPPORT INSPECTION
Figure 72—Engine Front and Rear Mounting
RA PD 332970
•183•
TAA 9-801
85
certain that bolt threads are not crossed during this operation. Tighten
bolts firmly.
(3) INSTALL FLYWHEEL UNDERPAN. Position and aline flywheel
underpan on clutch housing. Attach pan in place with four screws
and lock washers. Attach radio suppresssion bond strap (U) and
tighten screws firmly.
(4) INSTALL CLUTCH AND BRAKE PEDAL AND BRACKET ASSEM-
BLY. Position pedal and bracket assembly against clutch housing
and transmission, then install three cap screws and lock washers
which attach bracket. Tighten cap screws firmly. Hook adjusting
link onto clutch pedal and hook clutch pedal pull back spring onto
adjusting link.
d. Left-hand Side of Engine.
(1) INSTALL THERMAL UNIT. Screw thermal unit (N) into cylin-
der head. Make certain that line attached to unit is not twisted dur-
ing installation.
(2) CONNECT OIL GAGE TUBE. Connect flexible oil line to oil
pressure gage tube (O). Use two wrenches while tightening connec-
tion to prevent twisting. Insert accelerator rod end in carbureter
control lever, which is attached to cylinder block, then insert cotter
pin in rod.
(3) CONNECT EXHAUST PIPE. Place flange seal and new gasket on
top of exhaust pipe flange (R) and raise exhaust pipe flange up
against exhaust manifold. Insert three bolts up through exhaust pipe
flange and manifold and install nuts on bolts. Tighten nuts alter-
nately and evenly, then install Palnuts on bolts.
(4) INSTALL WIRES ON HORN AND GENERATOR. Remove screws
and lock washers from horn terminals, then position wires (Y) and
reinstall screws and lock washers. Tighten screws firmly. Remove
nuts and internal-external toothed lock washers from generator wire
terminals and install wires (P) on respective terminals. Attach wires
with washers and nuts.
(5) CONNECT CARBURETER LINKAGE AND WINDSHIELD WIPER
TUBE. Install choke control housing (F) in clamp and insert wire
through swivel block on choke control lever. Hook carbureter con-
trol rod through throttle lever. Install hand throttle control housing
(E) in clamp and insert wire through hole in carbureter control rod.
Install stop collar on end of wire and tighten screw in a collar. Install
windshield wiper tube (G) on vacuum line from intake manifold.
(6) INSTALL AIR CLEANER.
(a) Flange Type. Position cleaner assembly over center tube
attached to carbureter. Thread wing nut onto stud and tighten
snugly.
(b) Clamp-on Type. Place air cleaner on top of carbureter and
at the same time aline bolt at side of air cleaner in slot of air cleaner
brace. Press assembly in place and tighten clamp bolt and brace nut.
e. Right-hand Side of Engine.
(1) INSTALL COIL WIRE AND VALVE COVER BOND STRAP. Attach
radio suppression bond strap (L) on valve rocker arm cover rear stud
with internal - external toothed lock washer and nut. Tighten nut
firmly. Install wire (D) on ignition coil positive ( + ) terminal.
•184•
TM 9-801
85
(2) CONNECT CRANKING MOTOR TERMINAL WIRES. Remove
nut and washer from cranking motor terminal, and install cable and
wires (J and K) on terminal. Attach wires on terminal with nut and
washer. Tighten nut firmly.
(3) INSTALL FUEL FILTER. Position fuel filter on bracket, and
attach with two bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
(4) CONNECT FUEL LINES. Connect flexible tube at fuel pump.
Position and connect metal line (H) at rear of filter.
(5) CONNECT HYDROVAC VACUUM LINE. Insert metal tube in
flexible hose (I), position hose clamp, then tighten clamp bolt firmly.
f. Front of Vehicle.
(1) INSTALL BRUSH GUARD AND RADIATOR ASSEMBLY. Aline
shims and radiator cushion with holes in frame front crossmember;
then apply one or two short pieces of tape to hold cushion and shims
in alinement when radiator assembly is installed. Carefully place
brush guard and radiator assembly in position on front crossmember
between the two side panels.
(2) ATTACH BRUSH GUARD. Install bolts which attach radiator
support braces (Z) to radiator support; then install internal-external
toothed lock washers and nuts. Install six bolts, nuts, and internal-
external toothed lock washers (one under head of each bolt and nut)
attaching brush guard to fenders (three on each side). Install eight
bolts, nuts, and internal-external toothed lock washers (four at each
side) which attach brush guard to right- and left-hand side panels in
the same manner. Tighten all nuts firmly.
(3) CONNECT RADIATOR HOSES AND INSTALL TIE ROD. Install
upper and lower radiator hoses, position hose clamps, and tighten
clamp bolts firmly. Screw inner (forward) nuts well up on ends of
tie rod. Place new internal-external toothed lock washers over ends
of tie rod and insert ends of tie rod through holes in dash. Attach
front end of tie rod to radiator support with two screws and new
internal-external toothed lock washers. Tighten screws firmly.
(4) ATTACH RADIATOR AND FRONT ENGINE SUPPORT BOLTS. In-
stall in following order a spring, washer, and two nuts on each radia-
tor support bolt. Tighten nuts until springs are compressed, then
back off nuts three full turns to provide proper tension on springs.
Tighten lock nuts securely. Install lock washers and castellated nuts
on front motor support bolts. Tighten nuts and install cotter pins.
Attach radiator bond straps to bottom of radiator. Attach bond
straps (V) to front of engine oil pan.
(5) INSTALL SIDE PANELS AND CONNECT HOOD. Attach left- and
right-hand rear side panels with bolts, nuts, and internal-external
toothed lock washers. Attach radio suppression bond straps (C).
Position and install hood bracket (B) on cab cowl. Attach two radio
suppression bond straps (A) with screws and internal-external
toothed lock washers.
g. Inside Cab.
(1) INSTALL NUTS ON RADIATOR TIE ROD. Install nuts and new
internal-external toothed lock washers on ends of tie rod. Adjust nuts
on each side of dash to obtain a 24-inch clearance between fan blades
•185•
TM 9-801
85-86
and bottom of radiator. After correct adjustment is obtained, tighten
nuts firmly.
(2) INSTALL CRANKING MOTOR CROSS SHAFT ASSEMBLY. Posi-
tion spacef blocks and cross shaft assembly on top of clutch housing.
Insert cap screw, with lock washer installed, through oil pressure
line clip, then through cross shaft bracket and screw into clutch
housing. Install other three cap screws and lock washers which attach
cross shaft assembly to clutch housing and tighten firmly. Attach
brake pedal pull rod to brake pedal with clevis pin and cotter pin.
(3) INSTALL TOE BOARD AND FLOOR BOARD. A visual check must
be made before toe board and floor board are installed to ascertain
that all connections have been made and that all bolts, etc., are in
place and tightened securely. Position toe board in cab and attach
with five cap screws and external toothed lock washers. Tighten cap
screws firmly. Aline levers in cab as necessary and install floor board.
Attach floor board with 12 cap screws and external toothed lock
washers. Install floor seal over ends of hand brake and transfer case
levers.
(4) INSTALL TOE PLATE. Carefully place toe plate and seal in
position around pedals and steering column, aline screw holes, and
attach with screws and lock washers.
(5) INSTALL ACCELERATOR PEDAL. Remove cotter pin and clevis
pin from pedal, position accelerator rod under pedal, insert clevis
pin through pedal and rod and install cotter pin.
• h. Final Operations. Fill cooling system, crankcase, and trans-
mission. Connect cranking motor cable to battery.
(1) Make following adjustments.
(a) Clutch pedal free-travel (par. 150).
(b) Brake master cylinder linkage (par. 187).
(c) Brake pedal to toe board clearance (par. 186).
(d) Transmission strut rod adjustment (par. 155).
(e) Transfer case control rod adjustment (par. 160).
(/) Choke control (par. 95).
(g) Throttle control (par. 95).
(h) Adjust fan belt tension (par. 108).
(i) Polarize generator (par. 117).

0) Tune-up engine (par. 76).

Section XVI
IGNITION SYSTEM
86. DESCRIPTION AND DATA.
a. Description (fig. 73). The ignition system consists of the
source of power (battery or generator), ignition switch, ignition coil,
distributor, condenser, spark plugs, and high and low tension wiring.
The ignition system functions to produce and deliver high voltage
surges to the correct spark plug at the correct intervals and with
•186*
TM 9-801
86
IGNITION SYSTEM
Figure 73—Ignition System Units Installed
HA PD 332912
correct timing to the engine. Each high voltage surge produces a
spark at the spark plug gap to which it is delivered, so that the mix-
ture of air and fuel in the cylinder is ignited.
b. Circuit Description (fig 74). There are two distinct electrical
circuits in the ignition system, the primary and the secondary. When
these electrical circuits are kept in mind, as well as the functions
of the various units in the system to accomplish these circuits, a bet-
ter understanding may be had of the operation of the entire system.
(1) PRIMARY CIRCUIT. The primary, or low tension circuit, in-
cludes the source of electrical energy (battery or generator), dis-
tributor contact points and circuit breaker mechanism, primary cir-
cuit of the ignition coil, and condenser.
IGN PRIMARY FILTER
•< b
Figure 74—Ignition System Circuits
RA PD 332966
*187*
TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2yj-TON, 6x6
86-87
(2) SECONDARY CIRCUIT. The secondary, or high tension circuit,
includes the secondary circuit of the coil, distributor rotor and cap,
high tension wiring, and spark plugs.
c. Data.
(1) DISTRIBUTOR.
Make Delco Remy
Model 1110135
Breaker point gap 0.018-0.024 in.
Breaker arm tension 17 to 21 oz
Firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4
Initial ignition timing 5 deg before upper dead center
(2) SPARK PLUGS.
Make AC
Type 44
Size 14MM
Point gap 0.025 in.
(3) IGNITION COIL.
Make Delco Remy
Model 1115149
87. IGNITION TIMING.
a. Timing the ignition system comprises (1), initial timing—
setting of the distributor mechanism to permit opening of the points
at correct firing intervals and (2), manual advance—retarding or
advancing the point opening to compensate for the various grades
of fuel which may be used. These timing factors require checking
and adjustment at regular intervals or when performance of engine
necessitates such action.
b. Initial Timing.
(1) LOCATE No. 1 CYLINDER FIRING POSITION. Locate No. 1
cylinder spark plug wire on distributor cap, then place a mark on
distributor body opposite No. 1 wire in cap. Remove distributor cap.
Clean and adjust point opening if necessary (par. 88).
RA PD 332866
Figure 75—Manual Advance Adjustment
•188•
TM 9-801
87
IGNITION SYSTEM
TIMING MARKS
LOCATION OF PEEP-HOLE
RA PD 332900
Figure 76—Flywheel Timing Marks
(2) SET MANUAL ADVANCE. Set manual advance at zero—
halfway between "R" and "A" (fig. 75).
(3) CHECK TIMING. Do not turn ignition switch on. Have some-
one slowly crank engine and watch timing mark on flywheel (fig.
76). Crank engine slowly until flywheel mark is exactly in line with
pointer on flywheel housing. With pointer and flywheel mark lined
up, rotor should point toward mark placed on distributor body.
Timing should be checked and adjusted by method described in steps
(a) and (b) below.
(a) With Engine Not Running. With flywheel mark exactly in
line with pointer and distributor rotor pointing to No. 1 spark plug
position, points should just begin to open. Loosen clamp screw (fig.
77) and turn distributor housing in clockwise direction until points
close. Disconnect the high tension wire from the coil to the distrib-
utor at the distributor cap. Turn on ignition switch and hold the
end of the high tension wire % inch from a ground, then turn dis-
tributor housing in a counterclockwise direction until a spark jumps
the gap between the high tension wire and the ground. When the
spark occurs, the points are open; holding the distributor in this
position, tighten clamp screw securely. Turn ignition switch off.
(b) With Engine Running. Replace distributor cap. Attach one
lead of timing light (41-L-1440) to No. 1 spark plug terminal and
other lead to a convenient ground. Start engine and run at idling
speed. Direct beam of timing light toward flywheel housing peephole.
Timing light flashes make timing mark on flywheel appear station-
ary. Loosen clamp screw (fig. 77) and move distributor body clock-
wise or counterclockwise as necessary to synchronize flashes with
flywheel mark when it is alined with pointer on flywheel housing.
Tighten clamp screw.
•189'
TM 9-801
87-88
c. Manual Advance Adjustment (fig. 75).
(1) DRIVE VEHICLE. After engine has been thoroughly warmed
up, drive vehicle, using grade of fuel expected to be used in service.
Engine should not "ping" or "clatter" excessively under load and
full throttle.
(2) ADJUST MANUAL ADVANCE. A slight amount of "ping" is
not objectionable. If excessive amount of knock exists, loosen cap
screw (fig. 75) and turn distributor body toward "R" on distributor
clamp until knock is minimized. Tighten cap screw when adjust-
ment is made. With manual advance set at "zero," engine should
perform satisfactorily when 75 octane fuel is used. It will be neces-
sary to retard manual advance approximately three degrees when
using 70-72 octane fuel and advance three degrees with 80 octane
fuel. Several trials and adjustments may be necessary, as a general
rule, to obtain good performance with grade of gasoline used.
88. DISTRIBUTOR, POINTS, AND CONDENSER.
a. Distributor assembly is mounted on the right-hand side of
the engine and is driven from the camshaft by spiral gears. The
lower end of the distributor drive shaft is tongued and engages a
slot on the upper end of the oil pump drive shaft. NOTE: Some
early vehicles were equipped with a radio interference suppressor
filter on the distributor. This filter may strike and break the fuel
line. If a filter is found, remove and discard it.
b. Point Adjustment.
(1) CLEAN POINTS. Remove distributor cap [(GM-1867722)
Figure 77—Initial Timing Adjustment
DA PD 3328M
•190'
TM 9-801
88
IGNITION SYSTEM
A POINT OPENING
B ECCENTRIC SCREW
C CLAMP SCREW
D BREAKER LEVER
E CONTACT POINT SUPPORT
F FIBRE RUBBING BLOCK
a CAM
H FEELER GAGE
I SCREW DRIVER
Figure 78—Distributor Points Installed
RA PD 64554
G102-04-00420] and rotor [(GM-1883500) G102-01-03121]. Clean
points thoroughly, using a fine magneto type file.
(2) SET BREAKER LEVER. Hand crank engine slowly until
breaker lever pad rests on a high point of distributor cam.
(a) Check Breaker Arm Spring Tension. With contact spring
scale, check tension of arm spring in manner illustrated in figure
RA PD 332844
Figure 79—Testing Breaker Lever Spring Tension
•191'
TM 9-801
88
79. If tension falls below 17 ounces, replace points as described in
subparagraphs c and d below.
(b) Gage and Adjust Points (fig. 78). With a feeler gage, meas-
ure point opening. If not within 0.018 to 0.024 inch, loosen clamp
screw and turn eccentric screw until gap is correct. Tighten clamp
screw after adjustment is made. Reinstall rotor and cap.
c. Point Removal (fig. 78).
(1) REMOVE BREAKER LEVER. Remove cap and rotor. Loosen
primary terminal nut, then remove condenser pigtail connection from
terminal. Pull up on breaker lever and remove from pivot, at the
same time removing end of lever spring from primary terminal.
(2) REMOVE CONTACT POINT AND SUPPORT. Remove clamp
scew, then lift off contact point and support [(GM-1855720) G85-
33-02520] over eccentric screw.
d. Point Installation.
(1) INSTALL CONTACT POINT AND SUPPORT. Place contact point
and support assembly in position in distributor over eccentric screw.
Install clamp screw and tighten securely.
(2) INSTALL BREAKER LEVER. Place breaker lever over pivot
and at the same time, install end of lever spring over terminal. In-
stall condenser pigtail connection over terminal. Tighten terminal
nut securely.
(3) CHECK BREAKER LEVER SPRING TENSION. New breaker
lever springs are generally stronger than required in operation. Check
the tension (17-21 oz) in manner illustrated in figure 79. If neces-
Figure 80—Bending Spring to Decrease Tension
RA PD 33285?
•192•
TM 9-801
88
IGNITION SYSTEM
sary to decrease pressure, slightly bend spring in manner shown in
figure 80. To increase point pressure, lever arm must be removed
and spring bent away from lever. Avoid excessive distortion of the
spring, as only a small change in spring tension is normally required.
(4) ADJUST POINT OPENING. Adjust opening as described in
subparagraph b above. Check timing.
e. Condenser Replacement.
(1) REMOVE CONDENSER. Remove distributor cap and rotor.
Remove screw and lock washer attaching condenser to breaker plate.
Remove nut and washer from primary terminal and remove con-
denser lead from terminal. Lift condenser [(GM-1869704) G102-15-
39899] out of distributor.
(2) INSTALL CONDENSER. Position condenser on breaker plate
and attach with screw and lock washer. Place condenser lead on
primary terminal and attach with nut and washer. Install rotor and
distributor cap.
f. Distributor Assembly Removal.
(1) CRANK ENGINE TO No. 1 FIRING POSITION (fig. 81). Re-
move cap and wires. Crank engine until No. 1 piston is ready to fire,
i.e., with rotor pointing to No. 1 spark plug wire and flywheel timing
mark on position shown in figure 76. Distributor can be removed
and new assembly'installed readily while engine remains in this
position. If same distributor is to be reinstalled, mark relative posi-
tion of No. 1 spark plug wire on body of distributor directly opposite
rotor.
(2) LOOSEN HOLD DOWN CLAMP SCREW. Loosen clamp bracket
bolt (fig. 77). Lift distributor [(GM-1110135) G501-01-52015]
straight up until it disengages from spiral gear. The rotor will turn a
few degrees clockwise as gear disengages. Mark body opposite this
rotor position. Lift distributor straight up from engine.
g. Distributor Assembly Installation.
(1) IF ENGINE HAS NOT BEEN CRANKED since removal of dis-
tributor (subpar. f (1) above), locate rotor in No. 1 firing position.
If assembly is new, the No. 1 position can be determined by mark
on the old distributor (subpar. f (1) above), or place the rotor in
approximately the position shown in figure 81, then turn rotor

slightly clockwise. As distributor is inserted into place, the spiral

gear will cause rotor to turn back (counterclockwise). It may be
necessary to insert the assembly several times to finally bring rotor
to No. 1 firing position.
(2) If engine has been cranked since the removal of distributor,
it will be necessary to again place engine with No. 1 piston in firing
position. This can be accomplished as follows:
(a) Remove valve rocker arm cover. Hand crank engine and ob-
serve movement of No. 1 intake valve (second valve from the front).
When it is noticed that intake valve is closing (raising up), continue
to crank slowly and at same time watch flywheel timing mark peep-
hole. Crank slowly until flywheel timing pointer is on the steel ball
736603 O - 47 - 13 'I 93 •
TM 9-801
88
CONDENSER ROTOR
NTSUPPORTJ
POSITION OF ROTOR AT NO. 1 FIRING POSITION
NO. 4 CABLE SOCKET
NO. 2 CABLE SOCKET
NO. 6 CABLE SOCKET
NO. 1 CABLE SOCKET
SECONDARY
CABLE SOCKET
NO. 5 CABLE SOCKET
NO. 3 CABLE SOCKET
RA PD 332949
Figure 81 —Plug Wire Sequence and Rotor Pasition
(fig. 76). Engine is then in No. 1 firing position. Position distributor
rotor and insert as explained in step (1) above.
(3) CHECK OPERATING POSITION. It is important that a slight
clearance be maintained between upper and lower ends of housing
as shown in figure 82. When distributor is inserted into operating
position, lower end of housing will contact drive gear. Before tighten-
ing clamp screw, place finger under the housing and thumb on rotor
(fig. 82). While holding rotor down with the thumb, raise housing
approximately 1/32 inch. Be sure to equalize clearance at top and
bottom. Tighten clamp screw while distributor is in this position.
•194•
TM 9-801
88-89
IGNITION SYSTEM
Figure 82—Distributor Operating Position
RA PD 333017
(4) CHECK POINT OPENING. Check point opening (subpar. b
above). Install plug wires in correct sequence (1-5-3-6-2-4). Install
secondary and primary wires to distributor.
(5) CHECK INITIAL TIMING. Check and adjust initial timing
(par. 87 b), then adjust manual advance (par. 87 c).
89. SPARK PLUGS.
a. Removal. Remove spark plug wire assemblies from each
spark plug. Use standard spark plug wrench when removing plugs
(GM-1557987). Ordinary end wrenches'may crack or damage por-
celain.
b. Cleaning and Adjusting.
(1) CLEAN SPARK PLUGS. Spark plugs should be cleaned with
standard sand blast cleaning equipment or .with the use of dry-
cleaning solvent. If points and porcelain are excessively burned, new
spark plugs should be installed.
(2) ADJUST POINT GAP. Setting gap in a spark plug is a preci-
sion operation and should be treated as such. Proper.gap provides
0.025 inch between side electrode and center electrode. When re-
gapping is necessary, bend side electrode only, not center electrode.
It is not only necessary to set gap properly, but all plugs should have
same gap opening. Use a standard round feeler gage.
•195•
TM 9-801
89-91
c. Installation. Use new gasket [(GM-1556700) G122•
0193970] and thread plug into cylinder head with fingers. Use stand-
ard spark plug wrench and tighten plug until it bottoms, then turn
lA to V? turn until firm. Do not use extreme force in tightening the
plug. It is not necessary to "crush" the gasket. Examine spark plug
wires carefully and make certain that the suppressors at the plugs are
tight and thoroughly cleaned. Install wires to the plugs and make
sure they are fully seated in distributor cap in correct firing order
(1-5-3-6-2-4).
90. IGNITION COIL.
a. Ignition coil is oil filled and hermetically sealed to prevent
entrance of moisture. High tension terminal is protected by porce-
lain insulator which has high resistance to leakage across its surface
and is not damaged by any leakage which might occur.
b. Removal. Remove nuts and lock washers at terminals and
remove wires. Remove two nuts and internal-external toothed lock
washers attaching coil bracket to cylinder head. Lift coil [(GM-
1115149) G85-33-00861] up and remove secondary wire from ter-
minal at bottom of coil.
c. Installation. Install secondary wire on terminal at bottom of
coil. Position coil and install coil bracket over mounting studs and
install nuts and internal-external toothed lock washers. Tighten nuts
securely. Attach distributor terminal wire (No. 14 tan-red and black
cross tracer) to negative (-) terminal and (No. 14 black) to positive
( -f-) terminal. Tighten terminal nuts securely.
Section XVII
FUEL AND AIR INTAKE SYSTEM
91. DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION.
a. Description (figs. 83 and 84). The fuel system comprises:
fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel filter, fuel pump, carbureter, air cleaner,
carbureter control linkage, and manifold heat control valve. Elec-
trical gage system provides means of determining level of fuel in
tank.
b. Operation. The fuel supply, stored in the fuel tank, is drawn
through the fuel filter by action of the fuel pump. The fuel pump
forces fuel, as required, to the carbureter where it is properly mixed

with air drawn into the carbureter through an oil-bath type air
cleaner. The mixture of air and fuel is drawn into the combustion
chamber by the downward stroke of the piston. The manifold heat
control valve provides a means in cold weather of bypassing exhaust
heat around intake manifold to aid in vaporization and in hot
weather directs exhaust heat away from intake manifold.
•196*
TM 9-801
92
A FUEL PUMP TO CARBURETER LINE
B FUEL PUMP
C FUEL FILTER TO FUEL PUMP HOSE
D FUEL FILTER
E SHUT-OFF COCK
F FRAME CONNECTION TO FUEL FILTER
FUEL LINE
G TIRE CARRIER SUPPORT
H FILLER CAP
I FUEL TANK
J FUEL TANK MOUNTING STRAP
K FUEL TANK TO FRAME CONNECTION
FUEL LINE
L FUEL TANK OUTLET FUEL LINE
M FUEL CAGE TANK UNIT
N CARBURETER
RA PD 332995
Figure 83—General Arrangement of Fuel System
Units—CCKW-352
92. DATA.
b.
c.
d.
Carbureter.
Make Zenith
Type—Early vehicles Die cast
Late vehicles Cast Iron
Model—Early vehicles 28AV11
Late vehicles 30 BW 11GM
Identification—Early vehicles 2135998-9778B
Late vehicles 2137474-10046
Fuel Pump—Make and model AC - AF
Fuel Filter—Make and model AC - T2
Fuel Tank—Capacity 40 gal
•197•
TM 9-801
92-93
TRUCK,
-TON, 6x6
e. Fuel Tank Filler Cap—Make AC
Pressure valve opens at (Ib pressure per sq in.) . . . IVfe - 2Vz
Vacuum valve opens at (Ib pressure per sq in.) .... Vz or less
f. Air Cleaner—Make AC
Type—Early vehicles Clamp on—oil bath
Late vehicles Flange mounted (high angle)—
oil bath
93. MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL.
a. Description. The manifold heat control, located in the ex-
haust manifold, consists of a butterfly valve and an adjusting lever
(fig. 85). The function of the valve is to direct the flow of hot
exhaust gases through the manifolds to aid in the vaporization of
the fuel.
b. Adjustment. The valve adjusting lever has two extreme
positions indicated by "ON" and "OFF." A medium setting is ob-
tained by adjusting the valve midway between "ON" and "OFF."
Loosen valve adjusting lever lock nut; then back out slotted screw
until it clears recess in manifold. Move lever to proper position to
obtain desired setting of valve. Tighten slotted screw into manifold
recess only enough to prevent valve from rattling. Tightening screw
A FUEL PUMP TO CARBURETER FUEL LINE
B FUEL PUMP
C FUEL FILTER TO FUEL PUMP HOSE
D FUEL FILTER
E SHUT-OFF COCK
F FRAME CONNECTION TO FUEL FILTER
FUEL LINE
G FUEL TANK MOUNTING STRAP
H FILLER CAP
I FUEL TANK
J FUEL GAGE TANK UNIT
K FUEL TANK OUTLET FUEL LINE
L FUEL TANK TO FRAME CONNECTION
FUEL LINE
M CARBURETER
RA PD 332996
Figure 84—General Arrangement of Fuel System
Units—CCKW-353
•198•
TM 9-801
93-94
A INTAKE MANIFOLD
B EXHAUST MANIFOLD
C SET SCREW
D NUT
E LEVER
F VALVE
G SHAFT
H BUSHING
Figure 85—Manifold Heat Control
RA PD 332936
excessively may distort valve lever or shaft. Finally, tighten lock nut.
(1) SUMMER OPERATION. At air temperature of about 60° F
and above, adjust valve to "OFF" position.
(2) WINTER OPERATION. At air temperature of about 30° F
and below, adjust valve to "ON" position.
(3) SPRING AND FALL OPERATION. At air temperature of about
30° to 60° F and also at lower temperatures when in heavy duty
operation (heavy loads, high speeds, and extensive operation in low
speed gears), adjust valve to medium position. NOTE: Medium posi-
tion may be used whenever "OFF" position does not furnish sufficient
heat or "ON" position supplies too much heat due to type of operation
or weather conditions. It is not expected that control valve setting
will be changed every time conditions vary. However, valve should
be set for average operating conditions consistent with air tempera-
ture.
94. CARBURETER.
a. Description. Two types of carbureters are used on vehicles
covered by this manual, die cast and cast iron. Early vehicles were
•199•
TM 9-801
94
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
equipped with die cast carbureter; late vehicles with cast iron car-
bureter (fig. 87). Both are balanced units which maintain the proper
depression ratio between the air intake of the carbureter and the
fuel bowl. All fuel mixture adjustments, except idling, are determined
by calibration of the various jets and cannot be changed without
disassembling the carbureter and changing the jets.
b. Idling Speed Adjustment. Warm up engine until the intake
manifold is at least warm to the hand (120° F or higher). Back stop
screw, on carbureter throttle lever, out (turn to left) until engine
runs evenly (rolls), then turn stop screw in (to right) until engine
reaches desired idling speed of approximately 400 to 450 revolu-
tions per minute.
c. Idling Mixture Adjustment. Warm up engine until intake
manifold is at least warm to the hand (120° F or higher). Slow en-
gine down to idling speed (subpar. b above). Disconnect windshield
wiper tube from manifold fitting and attach a vacuum gage at mani-
fold. Turn idling screw gradually to the right until vacuum reading
starts to drop, then to the left until vacuum reading starts to drop.
Note the number of turns made by idling screw and set screw at
center of travel. This will give a steady vacuum reading at its highest
point. If engine idles too fast after this adjustment is made, adjust
idling speed again (subpar. b above) and repeat above procedure.
Regulation of idling mixture in no way affects function of carbureter
at higher speeds. Disconnect vacuum gage, and connect windshield
wiper tube.
d. Removal Procedure.
(1) DISCONNECT CHOKE CONTROL AND HAND THROTTEE. Re-
move air cleaner (par. 99). Loosen clip screws at carbureter end of
choke and throttle control flexible housings. Loosen carbureter choke
lever swivel screw. Pull choke control wire and flexible housing
from swivel and clip. Remove collar or stop from end of hand throt-
tle control wire. Pull hand throttle control wire and flexible housing
from carbureter control rod and clip. Remove carbureter control rod
from throttle lever.
(2) REMOVE CARBURETER. Disconnect carbureter fuel line by
unscrewing flange nut. Remove two nuts and lock washers (car-
bureter to manifold) and remove carbureter (GM-2135998 die cast,

GM-2137474 cast iron) from vehicle.
e. Installation Procedure (fig. 86). When installing carbureter,
be sure correct gasket is used between carbureter and governor.
This gasket [(GM-2136304) G133-01-93852] must have slots in
it to allow vacuum to bypass freely between carbureter and governor
housings (fig. 86).
(1) INSTALL CARBURETER. Place gasket and carbureter in posi-
tion over manifold studs. Install two stud lock washers and nuts,
then seal forward nut with a new seal. Place carbureter fuel line
in position in carbureter fitting and install flange nut.
(2) ATTACH CHOKE CONTROL AND HAND THROTTLE. Thread
choke control flexible housing and wire through clip at carbureter.
•200•
TM 9-801
94-95
Figure 86—Carbureter to Governor Gasket
RA PD 64617
Insert wire through choke control swivel. Fasten end of flexible
housing by tightening clip set screw then adjust choke control (par.
95). Thread hand throttle control wire and flexible housing through
clip at carbureter. Install carbureter control rod through hole in
throttle lever. Insert wire through hole in carbureter control rod.
Fasten end of flexible housing by tightening clip set screw securely.
Install collar or stop on control wire then adjust hand throttle
(par. 95). Install air cleaner (par. 99).
9£. CARBURETER CONTROLS.
a. Description. Carbureter controls consist of a hand choke
control, [(GM-1990612) G501-01-39941] hand throttle [(GM-
1990564) G501-01-39940], and accelerator pedal and linkage. For
removal and installation of carbureter choke control and hand
throttle at instrument panel, refer to subparagraphs b and c below.
b. Carbureter Choke Control (fig. 87).
(1) REMOVAL.
(a) Disconnect Choke Control at Carbureter. Loosen set screw
which clamps wire in throttle lever swivel. Remove screw and clip
which clamps end of flexible housing to bracket at carbureter. Pull
end of wire through lever swivel. Remove bolt to loosen bond strap
at cowl.
(b) Remove Choke Control. Unscrew nut from choke control
at rear side of dash panel. Pull choke control from front side of dash
panel until end of flexible housing and enclosed control wire are
pulled through seal at cowl and hole in dash panel.
(2) INSTALLATION.
(a) Install Choke Control at Dash Panel. Insert end of flexible
housing and enclosed control wire through hole in dash panel, place
lock washer and nut over end of housing and enclosed wire, and
insert end of wire and housing through seal at cowl. Push choke
control button against dash and tighten in place with lock washer
and nut at rear side of dash panel.
•201•
TM 9-801
95
TRUCK,
-TON, 6x6
A AIR CLEANER
B HAND THROTTLE
C AIR CLEANER BRACE
D CHOKE CONTROL
E WINDSHIELD WIPER TUBE
F IDLING MIXTURE ADJUSTING
SCREW
G GOVERNOR
H CYLINDER HEAD WATER
BYPASS TUBE
I CARBURETER CONTROL ROD
J ACCELERATOR RETURN SPRING
— INNER
K ACCELERATOR PEDAL TO CAR-
BURETER CONTROL LEVER ROD
L CARBURETER INNER CONTROL
LEVER ADJUSTING SCREW
M CARBURETER OUTER CONTROL
LEVER
N CARBURETER INNER CONTROL
LEVER
O CARBURETER INNER CONTROL
LEVER STOP
P ACCELERATOR RETURN SPRING
-OUTER
Q BRAKE VACUUM LINE CON-
NECTION
R CRANKCASE VENTILATOR TUBE
S HAND THROTTLE STOP COLLAR
T IDLING SPEED ADJUSTING
SCREW
U CARBURETER FUEL LINE
V CARBURETER
W HAND THROTTLE CLIP
X CHOKE RETURN SPRING

Y CHOKE CONTROL SWIVEL

Z CHOKE CONTROL CLIP
RA PD 333007
Figure 87—Air Cleaner, Carbureter, and Controls Installed
•202•
TM 9-801
95
Figure 87—Continued
RA PD 333007B
(b) Connect Choke Control at Carbureter. Slide clip over end
of wire and flexible housing and attach clip to bracket at carbureter
with screw. Insert end of control wire through lever swivel. Tighten
swivel set screw and clamp housing clip securely as described in
step (3) below which covers this adjustment. Install bond strap to
flexible housing at cowl.
(3) ADJUSTMENT. Tighten choke control lock nut behind instru-
ment panel. Loosen swivel set screw at carbureter end of choke con-
trol wire. Adjust choke button so there is Vig-inch clearance be-
tween button and instrument panel. Then with carbureter choke
valve (air shutter) fully opened, that is, choke control lever tight
against stop, tighten swivel set screw securely. Tighten flexible hous-
ing clamp screw.
c. Hand Throttle ( fig. 8 7 ).
(1) REMOVAL.
(a) Disconnect Controls at Carbureter. Loosen set screw clamp-
ing stop collar on end of control wire at carbureter and remove stop
•203•
TM 9-801
95
collar. Loosen screw which clamps flexible housing in clip at car-
bureter. Remove bolt to loosen-bond strap at cowl.
(b) Remove Throttle Control. Unscrew nut from throttle con-
trol at rear side of dash panel. Pull throttle control from front side
of dash panel until flexible housing and enclosed control wire are
pulled through seal at cowl and hole in dash panel.
(2) INSTALLATION.
(a) Install Throttle Control. Insert end of flexible housing and
enclosed control wire through hole in dash panel, place lock washer
and nut over housing and enclosed wire, and insert end of wire and
housing through opening in seal at cowl. Push throttle control into
place against dash panel and tighten in place with lock washer and
nut at rear of panel.
(b) Connect Throttle Control at Carbureter. Fit end of flexible
housing into clip at carbureter. Insert end of control wire through
hole in carbureter rod and install stop collar over end of wire.
Tighten set screw after locating stop collar on control wire and
clamp flexible housing in clip as described in step (3) below which
describes this adjustment. Bolt bond strap to flexible housing at cowl.
(3) ADJUSTMENT. Tighten hand throttle lock nut behind instru-
ment panel. Push in throttle button as far as it will go. Loosen
throttle control wire stop collar set screw, and with carbureter
throttle in closed position, that is, idling speed adjusting screw tight
against stop, adjust stop collar so there is Vi inch clearance between
carbureter control rod and stop collar. Tighten collar set screw se-
curely. Also, tighten flexible housing clamp screw.
d. Accelerator Pedal and Linkage Removal Procedure (fig.
87). Instructions given here are for removing accelerator pedal and
linkage progressively beginning with accelerator pedal. These parts,
however, may be replaced individually if so desired.
(1) REMOVE PEDAL. From driver's compartment remove cotter
pin from pedal hinge pin then remove hinge pin from pedal and
bracket. Remove pedal to control rod clevis pin and withdraw pedal
from vehicle.
(2) REMOVE PEDAL TO CARBURETER CONTROL LEVER ROD.
From engine compartment, remove cotter pin and washer from rod
at carbureter control lever (mounted to left-hand side of cylinder

block.)
(3) REMOVE CARBURETER CONTROL LEVERS (AT CYLINDER
BLOCK). Remove control lever outer (lighter) return spring from
end of inner control lever. Remove control lever inner (heavier)
return spring from outer control lever. Remove cotter pin from lower
end of outer control lever to carbureter rod and remove rod from
control lever. Remove nut and washer from control lever mounting
stud then remove both control levers.
(4) REMOVE CARBURETER CONTROL LEVER TO CARBURETER
ROD. Loosen set screw in hand throttle control wire stop collar and
remove stop collar. Withdraw wire from end of rod and remove rod
from carbureter lever.
•204•
TM 9-801
95-96
e. Accelerator and Linkage Installation Procedure (fig. 87).
(1) INSTALL CARBURETER CONTROL LEVERS (AT CYLINDER
BLOCK). From engine compartment, place inner control lever in posi-
tion in outer control lever with extension pointing downward. As-
semble both levers to mounting stud and install plain washer, lock
washer, and nut. Hook return springs over cylinder block pin,
heavier spring on inside, then hook heavier spring into outer con-
trol lever and lighter spring into inner control lever.
(2) INSTALL CARBURETER CONTROL LEVER TO CARBURETER
ROD. Install rod through control lever (at carbureter) from engine
side. Insert hand throttle control wire through end of rod and install
stop collar, tightening screw firmly. Insert lower end of rod through
outer control lever (at cylinder block) and install washer and cot-
ter pin. Adjust inner control lever adjusting screw to provide ap-
proximately Vg-inch clearance between end of screw and outer
lever, then tighten lock nut. Adjust hand throttle (subpar. c above).
(3) INSTALL PEDAL TO CARBURETER CONTROL LEVER ROD.
Insert pedal end of rod through hole in toe board. Insert bent end of
rod through upper end of inner control lever. Install washer and
cotter pin. Rod must not bind. Be sure it is installed to work freely.
(4) INSTALL PEDAL. In driver's compartment, attach pedal to
toe board bracket with hinge pin. Install hinge pin so that cotter pin
hole in pin will line up with hole in bracket on pedal. Insert cotter
pin through hinge pin and bracket on pedal. Insert clevis pin through
upper bracket on pedal and control rod, then secure with cotter pin.
96. GOVERNOR.
a. Description. A velocity type governor, mounted between the
intake manifold and carbureter, is employed to protect the engine
from being operated beyond a predetermined safe and economical
speed. Although the governor does control the vehicle road speed,
this is not its primary purpose.
b. Removal. Remove carbureter (par. 94), then lift governor
from carbureter to manifold studs.
c. Installation. Care must be taken so that governor is not
installed up-side-down as its position differs with downdraft and
updraft carbureters. Governor is marked with an arrow indicating

carbureter side. Also, the gasket used between the governor and
carbureter incorporates two slots which allow vacuum to by-pass
through the governor housing for operation of the carbureter power
system. Be sure this gasket [(GM-2136304) G133-01-93854]'is in
good condition and installed between the governor and carbureter.
(1) INSTALL GOVERNOR. Place a new insulator to governor
gasket (plain) [(GM-2135995) G501-01-94026] oveV carbureter to
manifold studs, then place governor over studs so that arrow on
governor points upward (toward carbureter). Install carbureter
(par. 94).
d. Cleaning Air Filter. Carefully pry out metal cover with a
sharp pointed punch. Be careful not to damage cast projections that
•205•
TM 9-801
96
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
hold cover in place. Pick out filter felt and inner cover. Wash felt in
dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. Do not blow dry with com-
pressed air. Blow dirt from stabilizer cylinder and piston by directing
compressed air, in sudden bursts, through atmospheric hole in gov-
ernor air filter chamber. Moisten filter felt slightly with clean oil,
then install inner cover, felt, and outer cover. It may be necessary
to bend outer cover in order to install it, but it can be straightened
again by tapping with a ball peen hammer after it is in position in
governor housing.
e. Governor Adjustments. The correct governed speed of the
engine is 2750 revolutions per minute (no load) with engine warmed
up to normal operating temperature. Use a reliable tachometer
(18-T-230) or if one is not available, check governed vehicle speed
while driving on a level road with transfer case in high range and
transmission in direct (4th speed). Set governor to maintain 37
miles per hour, plus or minus one mile per hour. This will give maxi-
mum engine speed of 2750 revolutions per minute. If road space or
local speed limits prevent checking governor at 37 miles per hour,
the next lower gear position may be used by referring to "Maximum
Permissible Road Speed Plate" for correct speeds, however, governor
setting will be more accurate at 37 miles per hour.
(1) SPEED ADJUSTMENT. To correct governed speed, break
governor seal, then turn adjusting cap as necessary to obtain 2750
revolutions per minute maximum engine speed. One complete turn
will alter vehicle speed from four to five miles per hour. Check
governed speed by road test and when satisfactory, reseal governor.
(2) CORRECTION OF SURGE. Surge is the intermittent decelera-
tion and acceleration of engine speed with the throttle held wide
open. Adjustment for surge must be made only to the point of re-
moving the surge. Over adjustment will result in slow governor
opening. Wrench set (41-W-1496-695), comprising a hollow wrench
and an Allen wrench, is required.
(a) Break governor seal and remove adjusting cap. Insert hollow
wrench into adjusting screw housing and engage lugs in adjusting
screw bushing. Insert Allen wrench into hole in hollow wrench, en-
gaging Allen wrench in adjusting screw.

(b) Turn Allen wrench clockwise one complete turn, then hold
Allen wrench from turning and turn hollow wrench clockwise lA
turn or until surge is eliminated and engine runs steadily at 2750
revolutions per minute.
(c) Road test vehicle for elimination of surge. When satisfactory
adjustment has been made, reseal governor.
(3) CORRECTION OF SLOW GOVERNOR OPENING. Slow governor
opening is a decided loss in speed, when load is applied, while op-
erating with wide open throttle. Correction is made in same manner
as correction for surge, step (2) above, except turn wrenches counter-
clockwise. Make adjustment for slow governor opening very care-
fully as over adjustment will cause surge.
•206•
TM 9-801
97
STRAINER SCREEN FUEL BOWL STRAINER SCREEN
RA 90 332933
Figure 88—Servicing Fuel Pump
97. FUEL PUMP.
a. Description. The fuel pump [ (GM-1537714) G85-30-04460]
located at right-hand side of the engine, is a diaphragm type mechan-
ically operated from the camshaft. In addition to camshaft operation
while the engine is running, the pump is equipped with a hand
operated lever which may be used to pump an initial supply of fuel
into the carbureter in case the vehicle has run out of fuel, or the
carbureter bowl has' been emptied for any reason.
b. Cleaning. When pump fuel bowl and strainer screen are re-
moved for cleaning, parts that are damaged or will not clean up
must be replaced. Unscrew bowl clamp knurled nut, located at top
of bowl, and move clamp so bowl can be removed. Lift bowl and
strainer screen from pump (fig. 88) and thoroughly clean them with
dry-cleaning solvent. Be sure that strainer screen [(GM-1523099)
G85-30-04880] and bowl.gasket [(GM-1523096) G85-30-02220]
are in good condition; replace if necessary. Install strainer screen
and bowl. Position bowl clamp over bowl and tighten knurled nut
snugly.
c. Fuel Pump Tests. Fuel pump may be given capacity and
pressure tests to determine correct operation. These two tests are
separate and distinct from each other, and must be made with the
pump mounted on the engine. Tests should be made before the
pump is overhauled or replaced to determine condition of the unit
(1) CAPACITY TEST. This test is to determine that a sufficient
amount of fuel is flowing. Disconnect the fuel pump to carbureter
line and attach a suitable bleeder hose to fuel pump outlet so that
fuel may be caught in a container. With outlet of bleeder hose at
carbureter level or slightly higher, flow of fuel should be approxi-
mately one pint in not over one minute operation of engine at 2000
to 2500 revolutions per minute (no load).
•207•
TM 9-801
97
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
(2) PRESSURE TEST. Pressure test can be obtained with a stand-
ard fuel pump pressure gage attached to outlet of fuel pump. Pres-
sure should be 3% pounds maximum at lowest idling speed of
engine.
(3) ANALYSIS OF TESTS. If tests show a pressure not to exceed
maximum (33/4 pounds) and at least the minimum flow in capacity,
fuel pump operation can be considered as normal.
d. Removal Procedure (fig. 89).
(1) DISCONNECT FUEL AND OIL LINES. Disconnect fuel inlet
hose [(GM-2123238) G501-02-17831J and outlet tube at pump, also
oil return line at fuel pump forward mounting stud. Forward mount-
ing stud is a special hollow stud to provide an oil return into crank-
case.
(2) REMOVE PUMP. Remove forward mounting stud, also rear-
ward cap screw, then remove pump from vehicle. Remove pump
inlet and outlet fuel line connectors for installation in replacement
pump. \
e. Installation Procedure.
(1) INSTALL PUMP. Install inlet and outlet fuel line connectors
in pump. Place pump in position on engine, using a new mounting
gasket [(GM-838263) G104-15-93832] and install special hollow
mounting stud, with copper washer, in forward position (fig. 89) and
cap screw, with copper washer, in rearward position.
FUEL PUMP TO CARBURETER
FUEL LINE
OIL FILTER RETURN LINE
FUEL PUMP MOUNTING STUD
FUEL PUMP
HAND PRIMER
RA PD 64610
Figure 89—Fuel Pump Installed
•208'
TM 9-801
97-98
(2) CONNECT FUEL AND OIL LINES. Connect pump inlet and
outlet fuel lines; also oil return line to special hollow stud. Test pump
for efficient operation (subpar. c above).
98. FUEL FILTER.
a. Description. The fuel filter (fig. 90) comprises a disk type
(laminated) strainer and is mounted on the right-hand frame side
rail.
b. Cleaning.
(1) REMOVE SHELL AND STRAINER. Close fuel line shut-off cock
at fuel filter. Remove drain plug and allow fuel to drain from filter.
Unscrew cover screw and remove filter shell with strainer. Do not
lose gaskets.
(2) CLEAN FILTER. Lift strainer and spring from shell and
clean all parts thoroughly in dry-cleaning solvent. Be sure all par-
ticles are removed from between disks of strainer. NOTE: Moderate
air pressure may be used on brass strainers but must not be used
when cleaning paper strainers. Wipe shell dry with a clean cloth.
(3) INSTALL STRAINER AND SHELL. Inspect strainer gasket,
cover gasket, and cover screw gasket. Replace with new parts (GM-
2185916-Set) if found not to be in good condition. Place spring and
strainer over stem in shell. With strainer and cover gaskets in posi-
tion, assemble shell to cover; then install cover screw, with gasket,
A FUEL OUTLET
B FILTER STRAINER GASKET
C COVER SCREW
T COVER
E FUEL INLET
F COVER GASKET
G SHELL
H DRAIN PLUG
I SPRING
J FILTER STRAINER
K SHUT-OFF COCK
L FILTER MOUNTING BRACKET
M FRAME SIDE RAIL
RA PD 332895
Figure 90—Fuel Filter-Assembled and Disassembled

736603 O - 47 - 14 • 209 •
TM 9-801
98-99
and tighten screw sufficiently to prevent leaks. Install drain plug.
c. Removal. Remove drain plug and allow fuel to drain from
filter. Disconnect inlet and outlet fuel lines at filter. Remove two
filter to mounting bracket bolts and remove filter from vehicle. Un-
screw shut-off cock and outlet line connector from filter for installa-
tion in replacement filter.
d. Installation. Install shut-off cock in cover opening marked
"IN" and connector in opening marked "OUT." Place filter in posi-
tion on mounting bracket and install two mounting bolts, lock
washers, and nuts. Connect inlet and outlet fuel lines, tightening
flange nut enough to prevent leaks. Be sure drain plug and cover
screw are tight enough to prevent leaks and that shut-off cock is in
open position.
99. AIR CLEANER.
a. Description. The oil bath cleaner (fig. 91) is designed to
prevent dust and dirt from entering carbureter. Air entering the
cleaner passes into the oil chamber. Due to impact and sudden re-
versal of air flow, most all of the dirt in the air is thrown into the
oil and settles to the bottom of the oil reservoir. Partially cleaned
air passes through a dense oil saturated mesh where the remaining
dust is trapped.
b. Removal (Clamp-on Type Air Cleaner). Loosen bolt nut
that attaches air cleaner brace to air cleaner. Loosen clamp bolt that
clamps air cleaner to carbureter and lift cleaner from top of car-
bureter.
c. Removal (Flange Mounted Air Cleaner). Unscrew wing
nut, at center of cleaner cover, and lift cleaner shell with element
and cover as an assembly from cleaner center tube. Remove four
cap screws, securing cleaner tube to carbureter, and remove tube
from top of carbureter.
EARLY TYPE
A COVER GASKET
B COVER
C WING NUT
D FILTER ELEMENT
E CLAMP
F CLAMP SEAL
G THROAT GASKET
H OIL RESERVOIR
LATE TYPE
I GASKET
J GASKET
K GASKET
L COVER AND ELEMENT ASSEMBLY
M OIL LEVEL INDICATOR
N OIL RESERVOIR
O FLANGE AND TUBE
Figure 91 —Air Cleaner Cross Sections
HA PD 333030
•210•
TM 9-801
99-100
d. Cleaning. Dust and dirt in the air entering air cleaner is
loaded with minute particles of abrasive which, if permitted to enter
the engine, will cause rapid wear of moving parts. Importance of
keeping the air cleaner in proper condition should be impressed
upon those responsible for the mechanical upkeep of the engine.
Remove air cleaner and clean as directed in Lubrication, Section
VIII. Condition of air cleaner cover gasket [ (GM-1526517) G104-
15-93762 for clamp-on type] should be checked and replaced if
necessary.
e. Installation (Clamp-on Type Air Cleaner). Inspect cleaner
to carbureter gasket and cleaner clamp seal. Make sure they are in
place and in good condition, that is, they will form a good seal. Re-
place with new parts if necessary. If rustproofing oil is on new parts,
remove the oil with dry-cleaning solvent and wipe seal dry with a
clean cloth. Air cleaner to carbureter adapter must not be bent or
distorted. Straighten if necessary. Be sure cleaner is clean and oil is
at proper level.
(1) INSTALL CLEANER. Place cleaner in position on top of car-
bureter, directing cleaner brace bolt into notch at top of brace. Press
down on cleaner to compress cleaner to carbureter gasket, and hold
it down firmly while tightening clamp bolt. Tighten air cleaner to
brace bolt nut firmly.
f. Installation (Flange Mounted Air Cleaner). If unit to be
installed is assembled, unscrew wing nut and lift shell and cover with
element from center tube. Inspect cleaner shell to tube gasket and
element to shell gasket. Make sure they are in place and in good
condition, that is, they will form a good seal. Replace with new parts
if necessary. Be sure cleaner is clean and oil is at proper level.
(1) INSTALL CLEANER. Place cleaner tube in position on top of
carbureter, using a new gasket, and install four tube to carbureter
cap screws with lock washers. Place shell over tube and turn it as nec-
essary to engage bracket with flat of carbureter flange; then place
element and cover into position in shell. Thread wing nut onto stud
and tighten snugly.
100. FUEL TANK AND LINES.
a. Fuel Tank Description. The fuel tank is located in one of

two positions, depending upon wheelbase of vehicle. The tank on

145-inch wheelbase vehicles (CCKW-352) is mounted across the
frame at rear of cab inside of the tire carrier support (fig. 83). Tank
is held securely in place by two mounting straps. Two filler necks
are provided, one at each end of the tank, so that the tank may be
filled from either side of the vehicle. The tank on 164-inch wheelbase
vehicles (CCKW-353) is mounted on the frame right-hand side rail
just back of the cab (fig. 84). Tank is held securely in place by two
mounting brackets and two mounting straps. One filler neck is pro-
vided which incorporates an extension to be used when the tank is
filled from a container. Filler cap (GM-850164) (fig. 92) is pressure
type, incorporating a spring loaded pressure (relief) valve and a

TM 9-801
100
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
Vacuum
Pressure
Figure 92—Fuel Tank Filler Cap
RA PD 332847
spring loaded vacuum (intake) valve. This type cap completely seals
end of filler neck, thus preventing fuel, in both liquid and vapor
form, from being lost. Valves open only to relieve excessive pressure
or vacuum, whichever condition prevails.
b. Fuel Tank Removal Procedure (145-Inch Wheelbase
Vehicles).
(1) DRAIN TANK. Unscrew two drain plugs from bottom of tank
(located at center and left-hand end). Allow fuel to drain from tank.
Do not replace drain plugs as they will interfere with tank removal.
(2) REMOVE FUEL TANK GAGE UNIT. Remove five screws and
lock washers and remove gage unit from tank.
(3) REMOVE FUEL TANK OUTLET LINE. Unscrew fuel line
flange nut (at tank) and disconnect fuel line. Unscrew fuel tank
outlet line retaining nut and pull outlet line from fuel tank. This is
necessary to provide clearance for tank removal.
(4) REMOVE Two FUEL TANK FILLER NECKS. Remove filler
neck to tank cap screws and lock washers (six at each filler neck)
and remove filler necks from tank.
(5) REMOVE TANK. Back off nuts at forward end of each
mounting strap as far as possible, but do not remove them. Remove
nut and washer from lower end of each mounting strap. Lift mount-
ing straps away from tank, using a suitable bar, and withdraw tank
from end of tire carrier support.
c. Fuel Tank Installation Procedure (145-Inch Wheelbase
Vehicles).
(1) INSTALL TANK. Make sure that fuel tank mounting bracket
antisqueak strips are in good condition and in place (install new
ones if necessary), then move fuel tank into position in tire carrier
support. Positioning of tank may be simplified by using a screw
driver or other suitable tool to guide tank past mounting straps.
Tighten nuts at forward end of each mounting strap enough to posi-
tion mounting strap on tank, then install washer and nut at lower
end of mounting straps and tighten them securely.

(2) INSTALL FILLER NECKS. Install two fuel tank filler necks
to fuel tank, using a new gasket between filler neck and tank. Install
•212•
TM 9-801
100
cap screws with lock washers (six at each filler neck) and tighten
securely.
(3) INSTALL FUEL TANK OUTLET LINE. Place fuel tank outlet
line in position in tank. Be sure lower end of line engages hole in
support at bottom of tank. Install outlet line retaining nut and
tighten securely.
(4) CONNECT FUEL LINE. Install fuel line in fuel tank outlet
line connection and tighten flange nut securely.
(5) INSTALL FUEL TANK GAGE UNIT. Place gage unit in posi-
tion in tank, using a new gasket [(GM-1516061) G501-01-94010]
and install five gage unit to tank screws with new gaskets under
heads of screws.
(6) CONNECT FUEL GAGE WIRE. Install gage unit wire over
gage unit terminal and install lock washer and nut. Install rubber
protector over terminal.
(7) INSTALL FUEL TANK DRAIN PLUGS. Install two fuel tank
drain plugs (at center and left-hand end of tank) and tighten secure-
ly to prevent fuel leakage.
d. Fuel Tank Removal Procedure (164-Inch Wheelbase
Vehicles).
(1) DRAIN TANK. Unscrew drain plug from bottom of tank and
allow fuel to drain from tank.
(2) DISCONNECT FUEL GAGE WIRE. Remove rubber protector
from gage unit wire terminal and remove nut and lock washer. Then
remove wire from terminal.
(3) DISCONNECT FUEL LINE. Unscrew fuel line flange nut (at
tank) and disconnect fuel line."
(4) REMOVE FUEL TANK. Remove two mounting strap to
mounting bracket bolt nuts and lock washers. Remove two mounting
strap hinge pin cotter pins and remove hinge pins. Lift mounting
straps from vehicle and tank is free to be lifted from mounting
brackets.
(5) REMOVE CAP AND FILLER NECK EXTENSION. Remove filler
cap. Pull extension out of filler neck as far as possible. Turn exten-
sion counterclockwise and continue to pull extension from filler neck.
(6) REMOVE FUEL TANK OUTLET LINE. Unscrew fuel tank

outlet line retaining nut and remove outlet line from tank.
(7) REMOVE FUEL TANK GAGE UNIT. Remove five gage unit
to tank screws and gaskets and remove gage unit from tank.
e. Fuel Tank Installation Procedure (164-Inch Wheelbase
Vehicles).
(1) INSTALL FUEL TANK OUTLET LINE. Place fuel tank outlet
line in position in tank. Be sure lower end of line engages hole in
support at bottom of tank. Install outlet line retaining nut and
tighten securely.
(2) INSTALL FUEL TANK GAGE UNIT. Place gage unit in posi-
tion in tank, using a new gasket, and install five gage unit to tank
screws with new gaskets under heads of screws.
(3) INSTALL FUEL TANK DRAIN PLUG. Install fuel tank drain
plug and tighten securely to prevent fuel leakage.
•213•
TM 9-801
TRUCK, 21/j-TON, 6x6
100-101
(4) INSTALL FUEL TANK. Make sure fuel tank mounting
bracket antisqueak strips are in position, then place tank in position
on mounting brackets. Position fuel tank mounting straps and install
two hinge pins. Secure hinge pins with cotter pins. Install mounting
strap bolts through mounting brackets and install lock washers and
nuts. Tighten nuts securely to prevent any movement of tank.
(5) CONNECT FUEL LINE. Install fuel line in fuel tank outlet
line connection and tighten flange nut securely.
(6) CONNECT FUEL GAGE WIRE. Install gage unit wire over
gage unit terminal and install lock washer and nut. Install rubber
protector over terminal.
f. Fuel Lines.
(1) DESCRIPTION. Special metal fuel lines, covered with protec-
tive looms wherever necessary, extend between the fuel tank and
carbureter. Flexible hose is provided between the fuel filter and fuel
pump to eliminate the possibility of fuel line breakage. A shut-off
cock is provided at the fuel filter-for convenience when performing
service operations on the system.
(2) REPLACEMENT. Fuel lines are securely fastened in position
with clips and may be readily removed or installed. Refer to figures
83 and 84 for relative positions and accessibility of various lines.
Always install new lines in same position as that occupied by the
lines they are replacing.-
101. FUEL GAGE TEST.
a. To simplify testing of fuel gage, it is recommended that
tank be approximately one-half full to prevent gage from normally
reading "FULL" or "EMPTY." Refer to figure 93.
b. If Gage is Dead. If gage is dead (that is, hand remains to
TO COIL' T°BATTERY
I AMM.
o-r1
IGN. . J~
•4
SWITCH
1-'',-^ '* IGNITION
r^ l~' > SWITCH

FUEL GAGE .
FUEL GAGE
TANK UNIT
Figure 93—Fuel Gage Circuit Diagram
•214•
TM 9-801
101-103
left of empty) when ignition switch is turned on, current is not
reaching gage. To test, connect a jumper wire from "IGN" terminal
of gage to either terminal of ignition switch. If gage registers, wire
from ignition switch to gage is defective and must be repaired or
replaced (par. 128). NOTE: Early vehicles incorporate a circuit
breaker in the circuit between ignition switch and gage. In the event
the above test shows this circuit defective, install a new wire from
ignition switch direct to "IGN" terminal of gage.
e. If Gage is Stuck. If gage remains in any one position (other
than dead) as ignition switch is turned on and off, gage is defective
or tank unit float is stuck. To test, ground tank unit terminal with a
jumper wire or screw driver; if gage shows "EMPTY," replace tank
unit [(GM-1515435) G508-01-93761] (par. 100); if gage does not
move, replace gage (par. 140).
d. If Cage Registers Incorrectly. If gage registers when igni-
tion switch is turned on, but is known to register incorrectly, this
indicates that tank unit float arm is bent or distorted and tank unit
must be replaced (par. 100).
e. If Gage Registers Empty. If gage registers "EMPTY" when
ignition switch is turned on, wire from gage to tank is shorted and
must be repaired or replaced (par. 128).
f. If Gage Registers Full. If gage registers "FULL" when igni-
tion switch is turned on, wire from gage to tank unit is broken or
tank unit is defective. To determine which, ground tank unit terminal
with a jumper wire or screw driver. If gage then shows "EMPTY,"
replace tank unit (par. 100); if gage still shows "FULL," repair or
replace gage to tank unit wire (par. 128).
Section XVIII
EXHAUST SYSTEM
102. DESCRIPTION.
a. Exhaust system (figs. 94 and 95), consists of an exhaust pipe,
muffler, tail pipe, and attaching parts. The function of the exhaust
system is to carry away engine exhaust gases and to muffle engine
combustion noises. Two types of exhaust systems are used on ve-
hicles covered by this publication. On vehicles equipped with heated

water tanks, the exhaust system differs from the conventional ex-
haust system in that the exhaust pipe is insulated and an exhaust
by-pass valve is installed ahead of the muffler to direct the exhaust
gases through the water tank heater box.
103. EXHAUST PIPE.
a. Conventional System (fig. 94). The exhaust pipe extends
from the exhaust manifold to the muffler and is attached to the
•215•
TM 9-801
103
A MANIFOLD
B EXHAUST PIPE
C FRAME SIDE RAIL
D MUFFLER
E MUFFLER STRAP
F MUFFLER SUPPORT BRACKET
G TAIL PIPE (145-INCH WHEELBASE)
H U-BOLT
I FORWARD REAR WHEELS
(145-INCH WHEELBASE)
J TAIL PIPE (164-INCH WHEELBASE)
K U-BOLT
L FORWARD REAR WHEELS
(164-INCH WHEELBASE)
HA H> 64491
Figure 94—Exhaust System (All Vehicles Except
Heated Water Tank)
A EXHAUST MANIFOLD
B FRAME SIDE RAIL
C EXHAUST BYPASS VALVE
CONTROL WIRE
D EXHAUST PIPE AND INSULATION
ASSEMBLY
E EXHAUST BYPASS VALVE CONTROL
WIRE
F EXHAUST BYPASS VALVE ASSEMBLY
G EXHAUST BYPASS VALVE CONTROL
LEVER
H MUFFLER
I EXHAUST BYPASS VALVE TO WATER
TANK HEATER BOX TUBE
J MUFFLER STRAP
K TAIL PIPE
L WATER TANK HEATER BOX
RA PD 33295!
Figure 95— Exhaust System (Heated Water Tank)

•216*
TM 9-801
103-104
EXHAUST SYSTEM
manifold by three bolts, nuts and lock nuts. This connection is sealed
by a gasket and flange seal (fig. 96). The rear end of the exhaust
pipe is inserted in the front end of the muffler and held in place by
a clamp.
b. Heated Water Tank System (fig. 95). The exhaust pipe is
insulated to retain the heat in the system, and is attached and sealed
at the manifold in the same manner as the conventional system (fig.
9*6). The rear end of the exhaust pipe is inserted in the forward end
of the exhaust by-pass valve assembly and attached with a clamp.
c. Exhaust Pipe Removal (figs. 94, 95, and 96). Loosen clamp
attaching rear end of exhaust pipe to muffler or exhaust by-pass
valve assembly, as the case may be. Remove lock nuts and nuts from'
three bolts attaching exhaust pipe flange to manifold. Remove bolts. I
Move exhaust pipe forward far enough to pull rear end out of muf-
fler or exhaust by-pass valve assembly, and remove from under
vehicle.
d. Exhaust Pipe Installation (figs. 94, 95, and 96). Make cer-
tain clamp is in place on forward end of muffler or exhaust by-pass
valve, as case may be. Install exhaust pipe flange on exhaust pipe.
From underneath vehicle, insert the upper end of exhaust pipe be-
tween engine and frame side rail, then insert rear end of exhaust
pipe into muffler or exhaust by-pass valve. Position exhaust pipe
flange, seal, and gasket (GM-2017499). Insert three bolts up through
the exhaust pipe flange, seal, gasket, and manifold shown in figure
96. Install nuts on bolts and tighten alternately. Install lock nuts.
Tighten clamp bolt at rear end of exhaust pipe.
104. MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE.
a. The muffler is supported from frame side rail by-a support
bracket and strap. The tail pipe is attached to the muffler by a
clamp. The outer end of the tail pipe is supported at the splash
A MANIFOLD
B EXHAUST PIPE FLANGE
C EXHAUST PIPE
D EXHAUST PIPE FLANGE SEAL
E EXHAUST PIPE FLANGE GASKET
DA PD 64621
Figure 96—Exhaust Pipe to Manifold Connection

•217•
TM 9-801
104
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
shield by a U-bolt on the conventional exhaust system (fig. 94) and
by a clip bolt on the heated water tank exhaust system (fig. 95).
Two different length tail pipes are used on the conventional system,
depending on the wheelbase of the vehicle.
b. Muffler and Tail Pipe Removal (figs. 94, 95, and 97).
(1) REMOVE TAIL PIPE. Loosen clamp attaching tail pipe to
muffler. Remove U-bolt or clip bolt, as the case may be, attaching
tail pipe to splash shield, then pull tail pipe out of rear end of
muffler.
(2) REMOVE MUFFLER. Loosen clamp attaching exhaust pipe
or exhaust by-pass valve assembly, as the case may be, to muffler.
Remove nut and lock washer from muffler strap bolt and pull bolt
out of bracket. Move muffler toward rear of vehicle to pull it off
exhaust pipe or exhaust by-pass valve and remove from under
vehicle.
c. Muffler and Tail Pipe Installation (figs. 94, 95, and 97).
(1) INSTALL MUFFLER. Make sure clamp is in place oh forward
end of muffler and slide end of muffler over end of exhaust pipe or
exhaust by-pass valve assembly, as the case may be. Hold muffler
against muffler support bracket and wrap muffler strap around
muffler, then insert muffler strap bolt into muffler support bracket.
Install nut and lock washer on bolt but do not tighten until after
tail pipe is installed.
(2 ) INSTALL TAIL PIPE. Make sure clamp is in place on rear end
of muffler, then insert forward end of tail pipe into muffler. Attach
outer end of tail pipe to splash shield with U-bolt or clip bolt and
tighten securely. Position muffler until the ends of exhaust pipe and
MUFFLER STRAP BOLT
MUFFLER SUPPORT BRACKET MUFFLER STRAP
RA PD 64606
Figure 97—Muffler to Frame Mounting
•218•
TM 9-801
104-105
EXHAUST SYSTEM
tail pipe are each inserted an equal distance into the muffler. Tighten
the clamp bolt at each end of the muffler, then tighten the muffler
strap bolt. *
105. EXHAUST BY-PASS AND CONTROL (WATER TANK
BODY).
a. The exhaust by-pass valve is installed between the exhaust
pipe and muffler, and is held in place by clamps. It directs the ex-
haust gases, through an insulated tube, to the water tank heater box
and is operated manually by a control installed on the dash panel
to the left of the steering wheel.
b. Exhaust By-Pass Valve and Water Tank Heater Box Tube
Removal (fig. 95). '.
(1) DETACH MUFFLER. Remove nut and lock washer from tail
pipe clip bolt. Loosen clamp at forward end of muffler. Loosen muf-
fler strap bolt and move muffler and tail pipe assembly toward rear
of vehicle.
(2) REMOVE EXHAUST BY-PASS VALVE AND WATER TANK
HEATER Box TUBE ASSEMBLY. Remove cotter pin and plain washer
from swivel and remove it from by-pass valve control lever. Loosen
clamp attaching water tank heater box tube to heater box inlet, also
clamp attaching exhaust by-pass valve to exhaust pipe. Remove
exhaust by-pass valve assembly from exhaust pipe, then pull down
and forward to remove water tank heater box tube off water tank
heater box inlet. Remove assembly from under vehicle. Remove
water tank heater box tube from exhaust by-pass valve assembly
by loosening the attaching clamp.
c. Exhaust By-pass Valve and Water Tank Heater Box Tube
Installation (fig. 95).
(1) Install clamp on lower end of water tank heater box tube,
then position tube on exhaust by-pass valve assembly and tighten
clamp bolt. Install clamp on upper end of water tank heater box
tube, and slip tube over water tank heater box" inlet. Install clamp
on forward end of exhaust by-pass valve assembly, then position
.assembly over rear end of exhaust pipe.
(2) ATTACH MUFFLER. Install muffler and tail pipe assembly
over rear end of exhaust by-pass valve assembly. Tighten muffler

strap bolt. Install tail pipe clip bolt, nut, and lock washer and tighten
securely. Tighten clamp bolts at both ends of exhaust by-pass valve
assembly, and at upper end of water tank heater box tube.
(3) ADJUST AND CONNECT EXHAUST BY-PASS VALVE CONTROL
WIRE. Push control button in driver's compartment "in." Hold valve
lever on exhaust by-pass assembly in rearward position, then screw
swivel on or off control wire until swivel shaft will fit into control
lever freely. Install plain washer and cotter pin.
•219•
TM 9-801
106-107
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
Section XIX
'COOLING SYSTEM
106. DESCRIPTION.
a. The cooling system is of the sealed type and comprises the
following units: drive belt, fan, radiator, thermostat, water pump,
temperature gage, pressure type filler cap, cylinder head water by-
pass tube, and the tubes, hose and fittings connecting the radiator
to the engine and water pump. These units, when given proper main-
tenance, automatically control engine operating temperature. Water
is drawn from the bottom of the radiator by action of the water
pump and is force-circulated through the passages and water jackets
in the engine and returned, through the upper connection, • to the
radiator where it is cooled by the action of the fan drawing air
through the radiator core. A pressure cap (on radiator) maintains
a pressure of approximately four pounds in the cooling system when
the engine is warmed up to normal operating temperature. The
temperature gage, capillary tube, and thermal unit are fabricated
as an assembly. No provisions are made to repair this unit . In the
event the gage fails to function properly, replace with one known
to be in good condition (par. 139).
107. SERVICE.
a. Preventive Cleaning. In order to efficiently clean the cool-
ing system of rust, scale, or sludge, "use a cleaner followed by a neu-
tralizer to stop the action of the cleaner. Federal stock No. 51-C-
1568-500 provides cleaner and neutralizer enough to clean a cooling
system of a four-gallon capacity. Neutralizing, and flushing after
neutralizing, is very important as the cleaner contains a strong acid
which, if not completely removed, will attack the parts of the cool-
ing system. Also precautions should be taken not to spill any clean-
ing compound on the skin, clothing, or vehicle paint. CAUTION:
Do not pour cold water into cooling system when engine temperature
is above 200° F. Also cold water poured into the cooling system, re-
gardless of engine temperature, will close the thermostat and not
allow the engine water jackets and passages to completely fill. When-
ever filling system with cold water, always run engine until normal
operating temperature is reached (thermostat opens), then add water

until liquid level is visible through filler neck.

(1) DRAIN SYSTEM. Run engine fast idle until normal engine
operating temperature is reached (at least 165° F) to stir up any
loose rust, scale, etc. Remove radiator filler cap, open radiator and
cylinder block drain cocks, and allow cooling system to drain.
(2) CLEAN SYSTEM. Close radiator and cylinder block drain
cocks. Disconnect overflow tank (if vehicle has one) and place a
clean container under overflow tube to catch any overflow, which
may be needed to maintain proper liquid level in the radiator. Be
•220•
TM 9-801
107
COOLING SYSTEM
sure temperature of engine is below 200° F. Pour cleaning com-
pound (one container to every four gallons of cooling system ca-
pacity) into radiator, then fill system with water. Install pressure
type cap on radiator. If vehicle is equipped with an overflow tank,
move pressure type cap from overflow tank to radiator. Start engine
and run it at fast idle to heat solution to at least 180° P. Use a card-
board to cover radiator if necessary, but do not allow to boil. Con-
A CYLINDER HEAD WATER BY-PASS TUBE
B FUEL PUMP TO CARBURETER FUEL LINE
C RADIATOR INLET HOSE
D RADIATOR FILLER CAP
E RADIATOR UPPER SUPPORT
F RADIATOR
G CYLINDER HEAD WATER OUTLET
H THERMOSTAT HOUSING
I BY-PASS TEE TO ELBOW HOSE
J BY-PASS TEE
K FAN SHROUD
L WATER PUMP PULLEY
M GENERATOR AND WATER PUMP DRIVE BELT
N FAN BLADES
O OUTLET PIPE HOSE
P WATER PUMP BY-PASS INLET ELBOW
O RADIATOR OUTLET PIPE
R OUTLET PIPE HOSE
RA PD 332978
Figure 98—Cooling System Units
•221•
TM 9-801
107
TRUCK, 2V,-TON, 6x6
tinue to run engine at least 30 minutes. Stop engine, remove radi-
ator cap, open radiator and cylinder block drain cocks, and allow
system to drain completely.
(3) NEUTRALIZE SYSTEM. Close radiator and cylinder block
drain cocks. Pour neutralizer (one container to every four gallons
of cooling system capacity) into radiator, then fill system with water
and install radiator cap. Start engine and run it at a fast idle, using
radiator cover as necessary, to heat solution to at least 180° F. Con-
tinue to run engine at least 10 minutes. Remove radiator cap, open
radiator and cylinder block drain cocks, and allow system to drain
completely.
(4) FLUSH SYSTEM. Close radiator and cylinder block drain
cocks. Fill system with clean fresh water (soft if possible), then in-
stall radiator cap. Start engine and run it at a fast idle, using radiator
cover as necessary, to bring engine operating temperature to at least
180° F. Continue to run engine for at least 5 minutes. Remove radi-
ator cap, open radiator and cylinder block drain cocks, and allow
system to drain. If water drained is discolored to any extent, repeat
this flushing operation. CAUTION: Do not flush system by inserting
a hose in the radiator, with the engine running and the drain cocks
open. This procedure will close the thermostat and stop circulation
of the water through the engine.
(5) CLEAN RADIATOR, CAP, OVERFLOW TUBE, TANK, AND DRAIN
TUBES. Clean cap by spraying a stream of water (hot if possible)
through the holes in the valve cage while moving the pressure valve
up and down with a blunt wooden instrument or a pencil. Clean out
overflow pipe with a stream of water and rinse out overflow tank (if
vehicle is so equipped), then connect overflow tank. Clean out dirt,
trash, and insects imbedded in the air passages of the radiator, using
compressed air or a stream of water; but do not use steam. CAU-
TION: Do not hold air or water hose too close to the radiator or use
too great pressure as damage to radiator may result. Clean out any
stoppage in drain hose with a soft wire or straw.
(6) FILL SYSTEM. Close radiator and cylinder block drain cocks;
then fill system to suit climatic conditions as follows: If above 32° F,
almost fill the system with clean fresh water (soft if possible), add
a corrosion inhibitor, then fill with water until liquid level is visible
through filler neck. If there is a possibility that climate below 32° F
will be encountered, fill system about one-quarter full, add anti-
freeze enough for the lowest expected temperature (par. 31), then
fill until liquid level is visible through filler neck. Install radiator
cap, start engine and run it at a fast idle until temperature %age
shows normal operating temperature (par. 18 d); then stop engine
and check coolant level, adding water as necessary.
b. Air Suction and Exhaust Gas Leakage. Air circulating
through the cooling system, as well as exhaust gas leaking into the
system, causes rapid corrosion and rust formation which will eventu-
ally clog the system and cause overheating and loss of cooling
liquid. The air may be drawn into the system due to low liquid level
in the radiator, leaky water pump, or loose fitting connections. Ex-
•222•
TM 9-801
107-108
COOLING SYSTEM
haust gas may be blown into the cooling system past the cylinder
head gasket or through cracks in the cylinder head and block.
(1) AIR SUCTION TEST. Adjust level of cooling liquid in radiator,
allowing room for expansion so as to avoid any overflow loss during
test. Replace radiator cap with a plain type cap. Be sure cap gasket
[(GM-846732) G103-15-93621] is in good condition and will form
an airtight seal. Attach a length of rubber tube to lower end of over-
flow tube (this connection must be airtight). Run engine with trans-
mission in neutral gear at a safe high speed until temperature gage
stops rising and remains stationary. Without changing engine speed,
put end of rubber tube in a bottle of water, avoiding kinks and sharp
bends that might block flow of air. Watch for bubbles in bottle of
water. The continuous appearance of bubbles indicates that air is
being sucked into the cooling system. Correct condition by tighten-
ing cylinder head bolts, water pump mounting bolts, hose clamps,
and fitting connections. Also examine all hose carefully and if
cracked, swollen, or deteriorated in any way, replace with a new part.
(2) EXHAUST GAS LEAKAGE TEST. Start test with engine cold.
Remove drive belt to prevent pump operation. Drain cooling system
until cooling liquid level is at top of thermostat housing, but no
lower. This can be determined by loosening up cylinder head outlet
from thermostat housing to check level of liquid. If liquid leaks from
this connection, continue to drain system until liquid no longer leaks.
Remove thermostat (par. 110 b). Make sure thermostat housing is
full of liquid (add if necessary), then with transmission in neutral
gear, start engine and accelerate it several times. Watch for bubbles
in water in thermostat housing while accelerating engine, also when
engine speed drops back to normal. The appearance of bubbles or a
sudden rise of cooling liquid indicates exhaust gas leakage into cool-
ing system. Make test quickly before boiling starts as steam bubbles
will give misleading results. If exhaust gas leakage is evident, replace
cylinder head gasket, then test again. If leaks are still evident, it
indicates cylinder head or block is cracked. Report to higher author-
ity. Install thermostat (par. 110 c), install and adjust drive belt
(par. 108), then fill radiator.
c. Rust Preventives. The cooling system must be free of rust

and scale to maintain efficiency of the system. Use of inhibitors or

rust preventives reduces or prevents corrosion of metals and pre-
vents formation of scale. Inhibitors are not cleaners and do not
remove rust or scale already formed. Treating the cooling system
with an inhibitor consists of adding an inhibitor to the cooling
liquid. The inhibitor should be renewed periodically and especially
if the system has been cleaned or flushed.
108. FAN AND BELT.
a. Description. A five-bladed fan, mounted on the water pump
drive pulley hub, is driven by a "V" type belt from the crankshaft
pulley in conjunction with the water pump and generator.
b. Fan Removal. Remove four cap screws (fan to water pump)
and remove fan blades.
•223•
TM 9-801
108-109
Figure 99—Drive Belt Adjustment
RA PD 332910
c. Fan Installation. Position fan blades on water pump hub with
straight edge of blades toward radiator—curved edges toward en-
gine. This will position fan so notches in blades will provide clear-
ance with crankshaft balancer. Install four cap screws (fan to water
pump) and lock washers and tighten firmly.
d. Belt Adjustment. Loosen two generator to mounting bracket
bolt nuts or through bolt nut, as case may be, then loosen generator
to adjusting arm cap screw. Move generator toward or away from
engine, as necessary, to obtain correct belt tension. A light pressure
on belt at a point midway between generator and water pump
pulleys must cause a Va-inch deflection (fig. 99). Tighten generator
to adjusting arm cap screw, then tighten two generator to mounting
bracket bolt nuts or through bolt nut, as case may be.
e. Belt Removal. Loosen two generator to mounting bracket
bolt nuts or through bolt nut, as case may be, then loosen generator
to adjusting arm cap screw. Move generator toward engine as far as
it will go, then remove belt from generator, water pump, and crank-
shaft pulleys and remove belt [(GM-2090464) G508-01-18253]
over fan blades.
f. Belt Installation. Thread belt over fan blades, then place
belt over water pump, crankshaft, and generator pulleys. Adjust
belt and tighten generator (subpar. d above).
109. RADIATOR ASSEMBLY.
a. Description. The radiator assembly consists of a fin and tube
type core with upper and lower tanks. The radiator is mounted in a
•224•
TM 9-801
109
COOLING SYSTEM
A TIE ROD ADJUSTING NUT
B TIE ROD TO UPPER SUPPORT CAP SCREWS
C RADIATOR SUPPORT
D RADIATOR UPPER SUPPORT CAP SCREWS
E FAN SHROUD AND RADIATOR TO SUPPORT
CAP SCREWS
F RADIATOR LOWER SUPPORT BOLT
G SUPPORT BOLT SPRING
H RADIATOR CUSHION
I DRAIN COCK TUBE
J DRAIN COCK
K FRAME
L RADIATOR BRACE
Figure 1 00—Radiator and Mounting
RA PD 333044
vertical position at the forward end of the engine. Air drawn by the
action of the fan cools the cooling liquid as it flows through the radi-
ator. A pressure type filler cap is used on the radiator.
b. Removal (fig. 100).
(1) DRAIN RADIATOR. Remove radiator cap [ (GM-850033)
G85-31-03620], open radiator drain cock, and allow cooling liquid to
drain from radiator.
736603 O - 47 15
225
TM 9-801
109
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
(2) DISCONNECT BOND STRAPS. Remove nut and lock washer
and disconnect radio noise suppression bond strap at right- and left-
hand side of radiator lower tank. Loosen clip bolt attaching drain
cock tube.
(3) REMOVE RADIATOR TIE ROD. Remove two tie rod to radi-
ator upper support screws and internal toothed lock washers. From
inside of cab, remove two tie rod to cowl nuts and lock washers and
remove tie rod.
(4) REMOVE RADIATOR UPPER SUPPORT. Remove three screws
and lock washers at each end of radiator upper support and remove
support.
(5) DISCONNECT RADIATOR HOSE. Loosen radiator upper and •
lower hose clamp at radiator and disconnect upper hose [(GM-
2140818) G85-30-02830] and lower hose [(GM-2140852) G501-
02-17816] from radiator.
(6) REMOVE WIRING HARNESS FROM RADIATOR. Spread clips
and remove wiring harness from radiator upper tank.
( 7 ) REMOVE FAN ASSEMBLY. Remove four cap screws and lock
washers which attach fan to pulley and remove fan blade assembly.
(8) REMOVE RADIATOR. Remove six fan shroud and radiator to
support cap screws and internal-external toothed lock washers
(three each side); then remove fan shroud. Position radiator so that
cut-out in radiator flanges will clear radiator brace to support bolt
nuts; then carefully push upper portion of radiator toward engine
and lift radiator out of vehicle. Unscrew drain cock from radiator
for installation on replacement unit.
c. Installation (fig. 100).
(1) INSTALL RADIATOR. Install radiator drain cock in radiator,
then lower radiator into position in vehicle. Install radiator upper
support, securing it with three cap screws and lock washers at each
end. Place fan shroud in position against radiator and install three
cap screws and internal-external toothed lock washers at each side
of radiator to attach shroud and radiator to support.
(2 ) INSTALL FAN ASSEMBLY. Position fan blades on water pump
hub with straight edge of blades toward radiator—curved edges to-
ward engine. This will position fan so notches in blades will provide
clearance with crankshaft balancer. Install four cap screws (fan to

water pump) and lock washers and tighten firmly.
(3) INSTALL RADIATOR TIE ROD. Screw inner (forward) nuts
well up on ends of tie rod. Place new internal-external toothed lock
washers over ends of tie rod and install ends of tie rod through holes
in cowl. Install two tie rod to support screws using new internal-
external toothed lock washers over ends of tie rod and start (but do
not tighten) outer (rearward) nuts.
(4) CONNECT RADIATOR HOSE. Install radiator upper hose over
radiator inlet; lower hose over radiator outlet, and tighten hose
clamps.
(5) CONNECT BOND STRAPS. Install radio noise suppression bond
straps over bolts, located at right- and left-hand side of radiator lower
tank, and install internal-external toothed lock washers and nuts.
•226•
TM 9-801
109-110
COOLING SYSTEM
Insert drain cock tube into clip, then tighten clip bolt firmly.
(6) INSTALL WIRING HARNESS. Fit wiring harness into clips on
radiator top tank and bend clips over wire.
(7) FILL RADIATOR. Close radiator drain cock, fill radiator (par..
17) and install radiator cap.
d. Adjustment (fig. 100).
(1) LOOSEN RADIATOR. Loosen (do not remove) two radiator
lower support bolt nuts, accessible from underneath vehicle, also
radiator brace bolt at each side of radiator near the top.
(2) ADJUST RADIATOR. Adjust tie rod nuts at cowl carefully to
provide 3/4 inch clearance between fan blades and bottom of radiator.
Be sure all four tie rod nuts are tight at cowl. Tighten radiator brace
bolt nut at each side of radiator near the top, also tighten two radia-
tor to lower support bolt nuts until springs are compressed, then
back off nuts three full turns to provide proper tension on springs,
then tighten lock nuts securely.
110. THERMOSTAT.
a. Description. The thermostat is of the bellows type, mounted
in the housing at the cylinder head water outlet. The thermostat
comprises a restriction valve which rs thermostatically operated, and
is calibrated to open gradually as the engine temperature increases.
The valve in the thermostat starts to open at approximately 160° F
and is fully opened at approximately 185° F. When the temperature
of the cooling liquid in the engine is below the calibration of the
thermostat, the valve in the thermostat remains closed, restricting
the flow of the cooling liquid through the radiator. However, a by-
pass around the thermostat permits circulation of the cooling liquid
through the engine water passages until normal operating tempera-
ture is reached. The thermostat then is open and permits full circu-
lation of the cooling liquid.
b. Removal. Remove radiator cap, open radiator drain cock and
allow cooling liquid to drain from radiator. Loosen two radiator inlet
WATER BY-PASS TUBE TUBE CLIP TUBE INSULATION
RA PD 332945
Figure 101 —Thermostat Removal
•227•
TM 9-801
11O-111
A BY-PASS TEE
B CYLINDER HEAD WATER BY-PASS TUBE
C CYLINDER HEAD WATER OUTLET
D THERMOSTAT HOUSING
E FUEL PUMP TO CARBURETER FUEL LINE
F WATER PUMP MOUNTING BOLT
G WATER PUMP PULLEY
H WATER PUMP MOUNTING BOLT
I DRIVE BELT
J WATER PUMP MOUNTING BOLT
K OIL TUBE
L WATER PUMP
M WATER PUMP BY-PASS INLET ELBOW
Figure 102—Water Pump Mounting
RA PD 332965
hose clamps and remove hose. Remove two outlet to thermostat
housing cap screws, then lift outlet from thermostat housing. Raise
thermostat [ (GM-3108579) G122-04-02000] from housing (fig.
101).
c. Installation. Place thermostat in position in housing (fig.
101). Position water outlet, with a new gasket, [(GM-838341)
G85-31-06300] on thermostat housing, then install two cap screws
with lock washers, assembling cylinder head water by-pass tube clip
to left-hand cap screw. Be sure insulation is in place in clip. Install
radiator inlet hose over cylinder head water outlet and radiator inlet
and tighten hose clamps firmly. Fill radiator (par. 17).
111. WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY.
a. Description. A centrifugal type water pump is mounted on
the cylinder block at the timing gear end of the engine. The water
•228•
TM 9-801
111-112
COOLING SYSTEM
pump is a packless type and does not require a packing gland to
prevent leakage around the shaft. The impeller action of the water
pump forces the cooling liquid through the engine water passages,
radiator, and connections. The pump is driven, in conjunction with
the generator, with a belt by the engine crankshaft.
b. Removal.
(1) DRAIN SYSTEM AND REMOVE FAN AND DRIVE BELT. Re-
move radiator cap; then open radiator and cylinder block drain
cocks and allow cooling system to drain. Remove four fan to water
pump cap screws and remove fan blades. Remove drive belt (par.
108).
(2) REMOVE PUMP CONNECTIONS. Loosen radiator outlet pipe
to water pump hose'clamp screw at water pump and remove hose
from water pump. Loosen water by-pass elbow hose clamp screws,
and loosen hose [ (GM-2137582) G501-02-17816] from elbow.
(3) REMOVE PUMP. Remove four water pump to cylinder block
cap screws (fig. 102), and remove pump | (GM-2103002) G85-11-
01740] and gasket [(GM-838137) G85-11-00960] from vehicle.
(4) REMOVE BY-PASS ELBOW. Unscrew water by-pass elbow
from water pump for installation in replacement pump.
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL BY-PASS ELBOW. Screw water by-pass elbow
tightly into water pump. Coat threads of elbow with anti-seize com-
pound, mica base.
(2) INSTALL PUMP ON ENGINE. Place a new water pump to
cylinder block gasket in position, then place water pump in position
on engine, directing inlet elbow into hose. Install one 1%-inch cap
screw with lock washer in water pump bolt hole just above water
inlet and tighten finger-tight. Then install remaining three cap screws
with lock washers (fig. 102), assembling fuel and oil lines clip and
generator adjusting arm. Tighten all four cap screws evenly and
firmly.
(3) INSTALL PUMP CONNECTIONS. Tighten water by-pass elbow
hose clamp screws. Install radiator outlet pipe to water pump inlet
and tighten hose clamp screws.
(4) INSTALL FAN AND DRIVE BELT AND FILL SYSTEM. Install
and adjust belt (par. 108). Position fan blades on water pump hub
with straight edge of blades toward radiator—curved edges toward
engine. This will position fan so notches in blades will provide clear-
ance with crankshaft balancer. Install four cap screws (fan to water
pump) with lock washers and tighten firmly. Close radiator and cyl-
inder block drain cocks, then fill system (par. 17).
112. HOSE AND FITTINGS.
a. Description. Hose connections are provided at each end of
the radiator outlet pipe, at the radiator inlet, and at the water by-
pass inlet elbow at the water pump. A cylinder head water by-pass
tube extends from the rear of the cylinder head to the water pump.
•229•
TM 9-801
112-113
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
b. Cylinder Head Water By-pass Removal.
(1) REMOVE RADIATOR INLET HOSE. Remove radiator cap,
then open radiator and cylinder block drain cocks and allow cooling
system to drain. Loosen two hose clamps, then loosen and remove
hose from radiator and cylinder head connections.
(2) REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD WATER BY-PASS TUBE. Remove
by-pass tube clip nut and screw. Unscrew flange nuts at each end of
by-pass tube, then remove tube from tube clip and insulator.
(3) REMOVE WATER BY-PASS TEE TO WATER PUMP INLET
ELBOW HOSE. Loosen hose clamps, the,n remove two thermostat
housing to cylinder head cap screws and remove water outlet, ther-
mostat housing, and by-pass tee as an assembly. Remove hose from
water pump inlet elbow.
c. Cylinder Head Water By•pass Installation.
(1) INSTALL WATER BY-PASS TEE TO WATER PUMP INLET
ELBOW HOSE. Place two hose clamps over hose, then install hose
over water pump inlet elbow. Position gasket [ (GM-838297) G85-
31-06280] and water outlet, .thermostat housing, and by-pass tee
assembly on cylinder head, directing by-pass tee into hose; then
install two housing to cylinder head cap screws with lock washers.
Position hose clamps and tighten firmly.
(2) INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD WATER BY-PASS TUBE. Coat
threads of by-pass tube flange nuts with anti-seize compound, mica
base, then place insulator over tube. Position tube in clip at thermo-
stat housing, with insulator under clip, then screw flange nuts into
their respective fittings firmly. Install clip screw, lock washer, and
nut.
(3) INSTALL RADIATOR INLET HOSE. P.lace hose clamps in posi-
tion over hose. Install hose over cylinder head and radiator connec-
tions, then tighten hose clamps firmly. Fill cooling system (par. 17).
Section XX
STARTING SYSTEM
113. DESCRIPTION.
a. The starting system comprises a cranking motor, switch at-
tached to cranking motor body, pedal control linkage which actuates
cranking motor switch, and cable connection to vehicle battery. The

cranking motor is attached to the right-hand side of the clutch hous-

ing and is equipped with an over-running clutch drive which is man-
ually shifted into engagement with the flywheel. The cranking motor
switch, mounted on cranking motor, completes the electrical circuit
between the battery and the motor when the cranking motor is being
used. The upper end of the shift lever engages the switch button
•230•
TM 9-801
113-114
STARTING SYSTEM
A PEDAL LEVER ASSEMBLY (WITH SHAFT)
B ANTI-RATTLE SPRING
C PEDAL SHAFT BRACKET
D LEVER TO CRANKING MOTOR LINK
E PULL BACK SPRING CLIP
f PULL BACK SPRING
G CRANKING MOTOR LEVER
H CONDENSER
I CRANKING MOTOR TO AMMETER CABLE
J BATTERY CABLE
K CRANKING MOTOR SWITCH
L STUD NUT
M CAP SCREW
N BAND
O FUEL FILTER
P PEDAL SHIFT BRACKET
Q BRACKET CAP SCREWS
Figure 103—Cranking Motor Installed
RA PD 333045
after the pinion has fully engaged the flywheel gear, or when the
spring is sufficiently compressed to force the pinion into mesh as
soon as the armature rotates. When the engine has started, the action
of the over-running clutch allows the pinion to rotate at flywheel
speed; therefore the armature is not speeded up to a dangerous
speed.
114. CRANKING MOTOR.
a. Cleaning Commutator. Remove cover band and inspect
commutator for dirty condition, roughness, burned spots, and high
mica. If commutator is dirty, it can sometimes be cleaned with a
strip of 2/0 flint paper. Never use emery cloth to clean commutator,
All dust must be blown from cranking motor after commutator has
been cleaned If commutator is rough, burned, or has high mica,
cranking motor should be replaced.
•231 •
TM 9-801
114-115
b. Switch Replacement (fig. 103).
(1) REMOVAL.
(a) Disconnect Cables. Remove ground strap from battery. Re-
move cranking motor switch terminal nut, two cables, and condenser
wire.
(b) Remove Switch and Condenser. Remove two screws and
lock washers attaching switch to cranking motor housing. Remove
condenser and cranking motor switch [(GM-820052) G85-33-
03560].
(2) INSTALLATION.
(a) Install Switch and Condenser. Use two screws and lock
washers to attach switch and condenser to cranking motor housing.
Tighten screws securely.
(b) Connect Cables. Install cranking motor to ammeter cable,
cranking motor to battery cable (GM-5275716), and condenser pig-
tail wire over cranking motor switch terminal. Replace lock washer
and nut. Tighten nut securely. Reinstall ground strap to battery.
c. Cranking Motor Replacement (fig. 103).
(1) REMOVAL. Remove ground strap from battery.
(a) Remove Fuel Filter. Refer to paragraph 98 c.
(b) Remove Cables. At cranking motor, remove cranking motor
to battery cable, cranking motor to ammeter cable, and condenser
wire.
(c) Disconnect Linkage. Remove pedal pull back spring. Re-
move cotter pin which retains lever link to cranking motor lever.
Withdraw link and pull back spring clip from lever.
(d) Remove Cranking Motor. Remove stud nut and lock washer
at top, also bolt and lock washer at bottom which attach cranking
motor to clutch housing. Pull cranking motor [(GM-1107418) G85-
11-01540] straight away from housing to remove.
(2) INSTALLATION.
(a) Position Cranking Motor. Locate cranking motor in its cor-
rect position with switch at top. Install stud nut at top, and bolt at
bottom, using internal toothed lock washer under nut and bolt.
Tighten nut and bolt alternately until cranking motor is seated
firmly in place.
(b) Install Fuel Filter. Refer to paragraph 98 d.

(c). Connect Linkage. Insert lever link into shift lever, then
place spring clip over end of link. Insert and bend cotter pin. Install
pedal pull back spring.
(d) Connect Cables. Clean switch terminal post and cable ter-
minals thoroughly. Install condenser wire, battery to cranking motor
cable, and cranking motor to ammeter cable to switch terminal post.
Install lock washer and nut on terminal, and tighten firmly. Install
ground strap to battery, then test action of cranking motor.
115. CRANKING MOTOR CONTROLS.
a. Control linkage comprises a lever and shaft assembly bolted
with brackets to clutch housing, with a link connecting the cranking
motor shift lever and bracket lever.
•232•
TM 9-801
115-117
STARTING SYSTEM
(1) REMOVE TOE BOARD. Remove cranking motor pedal but-
ton. Remove toe board. Brackets and shaft are then accessible.
(2) DISCONNECT LINKAGE. Disconnect linkage and spring
[(GM-598073) G85-33-03250] at cranking motor lever.
(3) REMOVE LEVER AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY. Remove two cap
screws which attach brackets on each side of clutch housing. A
spacer is used under each bracket. Lever and shaft assembly may
then be lifted from clutch housing.
(1) INSTALL LEVER AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY. Position lever and
shaft assembly on clutch housing with brackets and spacers in place.
Install and tighten cap screws.
(2) CONNECT LINKAGE TO CRANKING MOTOR. Connect link and
spring clip to cranking motor shift lever. Install pull back spring.
Anti-rattle springs are used at link connection to bracket, and at
pedal shaft bracket to shaft.
(3) INSTALL TOE BOARD. Install toe board, then install cranking
motor pedal button.
Section XXI
GENERATING SYSTEM
116. DESCRIPTION.
a. Units in generating system include generator, operated in con-
nection with fan and water pump, and a three-unit regulator which
controls output of generator. Diagram of generating circuit is shown
in figure 104. Complete electrical circuit description and diagrams
are covered in section XXIII.
117. GENERATOR.
a. Description and Operation. The generator is a two-brush
type, mounted on left side of engine and driven by a belt from the
crankshaft pulley in conjunction with the fan and water pump. The
generator is cooled by means of air, drawn through opening in rear
of unit by a fan mounted with the drive pulley. Generator mount-
ings will permit positioning of the assembly to provide proper ten-
sion on drive belt. Adjustment of drive belt is described in para-
graph 108.
b. Cleaning Commutator. Remove cover band and inspect com-

mutator. If dirty, clean with a strip of 2/0 flint paper. Do not use
emery cloth. Blow out all dust with compressed air and install cover
band. Report to proper authority if the commutator is excessively
rough.
•233•
TM 9-801
117
TRUCK, 2 V2 -TON, 6x6
CRANKING MOTOR
BY-PASS CONDENSER
TO HORN CIR. BREAKER
-BLACK
TO IGN. SWITCH
TO "B" ON LIGHT SWITCH
BATTERY CIRCUIT FILTER
BATTERY
fWT
ilstejl?1
.BY-PASS CONDENSER
\ FIELD CIRCUIT FILTER'
\GENERATOR tj—-
\ ,--. GEN,i-t,REG
] \ F ©j-14 BLACK-RED CH -f^
! .Ml—©ft BROWN-RED & BLACK^ I
I _~AT CR. TR. yV
-14 BLACK
=2 -
s! REGULATOR
REG. ARM. FILTER
8 BROWN-RED & BLACK CR. TR.
Figure 104—Generating Circuit
RA PD 333022
c. Assembly Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT WIRES. Remove ground strap at battery ter-
minal. Remove nut, lock washer, and wire at "FLD" terminal on
generator. Remove nut, lock washer, condenser pigtail, and armature
wire at "ARM" terminal on generator.
(2) REMOVE CONDENSER. Remove screw and two internal-ex-
ternal toothed lock washers attaching condenser and ground wire
("GRD") to generator housing and lay condenser aside.
(3) LOOSEN DRIVE BELT. Remove cap screw, lock washer, and
flat washer attaching generator to adjusting arm.
(4) REMOVE GENERATOR. Remove two nuts, lock washers, and.
bolts attaching generator to mounting bracket. On late vehicles,

remove long through-bolt attaching generator to mounting bracket.

Remove belt [(GM-2090464) G508-01-18253] from generator
pulley and lift generator [(GM-1105864) G501-01-93910] out.
il. Assembly Installation.
(1) INSTALL GENERATOR. Lower generator into place and in-
stall two bolts (one at each end) attaching generator to mounting
bracket. Install nuts and lock washers on bolts and draw up finger-
tight. On late vehicles, install one through-bolt instead of two bracket
bolts.
(2) INSTALL DRIVE BELT. Place belt in recess in fan pulley,
crankshaft pulley, and generator pulley. Attach generator to adjust-
ing arm using flat washer, lock washer, and cap screw. Adjust belt
tension (par. 108), then tighten nuts on mounting bolts.
(3) INSTALL CONDENSER. Install condenser and ground wire
(No. 14 black) on generator housing, using screw and two internal-
•234*
TM 9-801
117
GENERATING SYSTEM
DEFG
A DRIVE BELT
B ADJUSTING CAM
C ADJUSTING ARM CAP SCREW
D GROUND TERMINAL
E CONDENSER
F ARM TERMINAL
G FL0 TERMINAL
H GENERATOR
I COVER BAND
J THROUGH BOLT (LATE TYPE)
K WIRING HARNESS
L MOUNTING CAP SCREWS
M MOUNTING BRACKET
Figure 105—Generator Installed
RA PD 333021
external toothed lock washers. Be sure two internal-external toothed
lock washers are used, one next to generator housing and one under
head of screw.
(4) CONNECT WIRES. Attach condenser pigtail and armature
wire (No. 8 tan-red and black cross tracer) to "ARM" terminal on
generator with nut and lock washer. Attach field wire (No. 14 black-
red check) to "FLD" terminal on generator with nut and lock wash-
ers. Tighten nuts securely. Install ground strap at battery.
e. Polarizing Generator. When generator or regulator wires
have been disconnected, especially when new unit is being installed,
generator must be polarized after units are installed, before engine
is started. Failure to polarize generator will cause regulator points
to vibrate excessively and burn. Remove wire (No. 14 black-red
check) from "FLD" terminal at generator. Use jumper wire to
•235•
TM 9-801
117
TRUCK, 2 V2-TON, 6x6
A FRONT END WIRING HARNESS
B GENERATOR TO REGULATOR
WIRING HARNESS
C CHASSIS WIRING HARNESS
D CAB WIRING HARNESS
'E JUNCTION BLOCK-LOWER
F FIELD CIRCUIT FILTER
G JUNCTION BLOCK-3 POST
H JUNCTION BLOCK-UPPER
I FIELD FILTER TO REGULATOR WIRE
J ARMATURE CIRCUIT FILTER
K ARMATURE FILTER TO REGULATOR
WIRE
L REGULATOR
M BATTERY CIRCUIT FILTER
N BATTERY FILTER TO REGULATOR
WIRE
Figure 106—Regulator Installed
RA PD 64764
momentarily connect "FLD" terminal on generator and "BAT-
TERY" terminal on regulator. This allows a momentary surge of
battery current to reach generator field, which automatically gives
generator the correct polarity with respect to battery it is to charge.
Attach wire to generator "FLD" terminal (subpar. d (4) above).
•236•
TM 9-801
118
GENERATING SYSTEM
118. REGULATOR.
a. Description. The generator regulator is a three-unit type,
mounted on the cowl front panel above and to the left of the engine.
The regulator unit contains a cut-out relay which automatically
opens and closes the circuit between generator and battery as needs
require; voltage regulator which controls generator voltage; and a
current regulator which controls generator amperage output.
b. Regulator Removal (fig. 106).
(1) DISCONNECT WIRES. Remove ground strap from battery
negative terminal. Remove nuts and lock washers from "ARMA-
TURE," "FIELD," and "BATTERY" terminals on regulator and
remove wires. Remove screw and lock washer attaching ground wire
to regulator.
(2) REMOVE REGULATOR. Remove four nuts and lock washers
from bolts attaching regulator to cowl front panel and remove reg-
ulator [(GM-1118468) G85-33-02550]. Notice that internal-exter-
nal toothed lock washers are used between regulator legs and cowl.
c. Regulator Installation (fig. 106).
(1) INSTALL REGULATOR. Install regulator on cowl front panel
with terminals down and attach with four bolts, nuts, and lock wash-
ers. Be sure internal-external toothed lock washers are installed
between regulator legs and cowl. Tighten nuts securely.
(2) CONNECT WIRES. Install wires on terminals as follows and
attach with nuts and lock washers:
"BATTERY" terminal—No. 8—yellow
"ARMATURE" terminal—No. 8—tan-red and black cross tracer
"FIELD" terminal—No. 14—black
"GROUND" terminal—No. 14—black
(3) POLARIZE GENERATOR. Correct polarization as described in
paragraph 117 e.
d. Regulator Cover. Voltage regulators may become inopera-
tive in service due to dust and moisture collecting inside regulator
cover. A check of this condition discloses that improper sealing of
gasket between regulator cover and base is a major contributing
factor. Improper tightening of knurled nut on stud, to fasten cover
tight against gasket and base, may permit dust and moisture to enter
around gasket. Nut will not tighten properly against cover if stud
threads are heavily plated or stud shoulder is too high. To check
for and correct a leakage condition, proceed as follows:
(1) Press firmly on each end of assembled regulator cover after
tightening knurled nut securely. If cover can be moved at all, it is
evident that nut is bottomed without compressing cover gasket.
(2) Remove knurled nut and check stud threads for heavy plat-
ing or other accumulated material which might prevent proper tight-
ening. Clean threads if necessary, using a Vi-28 threading die.
(3) Check to see if knurled nut bottoms on stud shoulder. If
this condition is found, remove stud and grind or machine shoulder.
This will allow nut to fit down over stud shoulder.
•237•
TM 9.801
TRUCK, 2V,-TON, 6x6
118-119
(4) Install stud. Check condition of cover gasket and replace if
damaged. Place cover in position, thread knurled nut on stud, and
tighten securely by hand. Finally, press firmly on ends of cover to
see if it now seats properly.
Section XXII
BATTERY AND LIGHTING SYSTEM
119. BATTERY AND CABLES.
a. Description. The battery is six volt type and is located at
the right side of the vehicle at the right rear corner of the cab.
Ground strap connects negative (—) terminal of battery to frame
side rail. Battery to cranking motor cable connects at positive (+)
terminal of battery and switch on cranking motor housing.
b. Battery Tests and Charging.
(1) TEST SPECIFIC GRAVITY IN CELLS. Use an accurate-reading
hydrometer and check each cell of battery for specific gravity of
battery solution. Fully charged battery should test between 1.260
and 1.300. If reading is below 1.225 under normal operating condi-
tions, battery should be replaced with a fully charged battery. Refer
to paragraph 31 for testing instructions in extreme cold, and para-
graph 32 in extreme climatic conditions.
(2) TEST CELL VOLTAGE. With ignition switch "OFF," or high
tension lead removed from ignition coil, operate cranking motor and
quickly check each cell of battery with low reading voltmeter (17-
T-5575) in manner shown in figure 107. If voltage falls below 1.7
volts at 80°F, or if there is a difference between cell reading of more
than 1/10 volt, battery is at fault and should be replaced.
(3) CHARGING. When battery requires charging, it should be
supplied with a charging rate of one ampere per positive plate per
cell or 9.0 ampere rate. Charging should continue for two hours after
the gravity and terminal voltage shows no further rise. Electrolyte
temperature should not be permitted to rise above 110° F.
c. Battery Removal.
(1) REMOVE BATTERY COVER. Remove two stud nuts and pull
cover outward to remove.
(2) REMOVE CABLES. Loosen negative and positive cable ter-
minal clamp bolt nuts. Spread terminals slightly and lift from bat-
tery posts.
(3) REMOVE BATTERY. Use battery lifter strap at battery ter-
minals to lift battery | (GM-1882853) G57-01-16050] from hanger.
Do not tip battery during removal, as electrolyte fluid may be spilled.
•238•
TM 9-801
119
d. Battery Installation.
(1) INSTALL BATTERY. Select battery and test each cell (sub-
par, b (1) above). Use battery lifter strap at terminals and position
battery in hanger. Positive (-(-) terminal of battery must be toward
front of vehicle on long wheelbase models or toward outside on
short wheelbase.
(2) ATTACH CABLES. Clean clamping surface of battery posts
and cable terminals. Attach cables to respective battery terminals;
ground strap to negative (—) and cranking motor cable to positive
(-(-). Tighten clamp bolt nuts. Coat terminals with grease to prevent
corrosion formation.
(3) INSTALL BATTERY COVER. Locate cover in place over hanger
studs. Install two stud nuts and tighten.
e. Cables. To determine if battery cables are satisfactory, tests
outlined in paragraph 120 must be made.
(1) GROUND STRAP.
(a) Removal. Remove two stud nuts and pull cover outward to
remove. Remove ground strap and positive cable terminals from
battery terminals by loosening terminal clamp bolt nuts. Remove
terminals from battery and lift battery from hanger. Remove two
nuts, lock washers, bolts, and flat washers attaching ground strap to
frame. Remove strap (GM-5275715—long wheelbase), or (GM-
5275713—short wheelbase).
(b) Installation. Immerse both terminals of ground strap in solu-
tion of ammonia and water to remove all traces of corrosion. Clean
bolting surface of frame side rail with wire brush or by scraping.
Attach strap to frame side rail, using two bolts with flat washers on
outside and lock washers and nuts at inside of frame side rail. Be
sure all bolting surfaces are clean and that nuts are tight. Position
battery in hanger. Clean terminals of battery. Position ground strap
terminal on negative (—) and cranking motor cable terminal on
positive (-)-) terminals of battery. Use new clamp bolt and nut at
each terminal. Tighten clamp bolt nut. Install battery cover and
secure with two stud nuts.
(2) BATTERY TO CRANKING MOTOR CABLE.
'(a) Removal. Remove two stud nuts and pull cover outward to
remove. Remove nut and lock washer attaching cable to cranking

motor switch terminal. Loosen clamp bolt nut and remove cable
terminal from battery terminal. Pull cable (GM-5275716—long
wheelbase) or (GM-5275714—short wheelbase) rearward to re-
move.
(b) Installation. Immerse both cable terminals in solution of
ammonia and water to remove all traces of corrosion. Thread cable
through frame side rail, then through support clips and grommets,
until cable is in position along inside of frame side rail. Connect
cable to cranking motor switch terminal. Install lock washer and
nut. Tighten nut. Position cable terminal over positive (+) battery
terminal. Use new clamp bolt and nut. Tighten clamp bolt nut.
Install battery cover and secure with two stud nuts.
•239•
TM 9-801
119-121
(3) ENGINE GROUND STRAP.
(a) Removal. Remove cap screw, lock washer, and flat washer
attaching strap to hand brake lever bracket at right side of trans-
mission. Remove nut, lock washer, flat washer, and bolt attaching
strap to right-hand motor support. Remove strap.
(b) Installation. Immerse both ends of strap in solution of am-
monia and water to thoroughly clean. Wire brush points at which
cable attaches. Attach strap to hand brake lever bracket, using flat
washer, lock washer, and cap screw. Attach opposite end of strap to
engine support, using bolt, flat washer, lock washer, and nut. Tighten
mountings to obtain good ground at both ends of strap.
120. LINE VOLT AGP: TESTS.
a. General. Excessive resistance caused by poor terminal con-
nections and partial short circuits caused by defective insulation will
result in abnormal voltage drop in cranking motor cable which will
cause voltage at cranking motor to be so low that normal opera-
tions of cranking motor will not be obtained. Abnormal voltage drop
can be detected with a low-reading voltmeter.
b. Tests.
(1) Check voltage drop between grounded battery terminal
(negative) and vehicle frame. Place one prod of test voltmeter on
grounded battery terminal and other on vehicle frame (fig. 107).
With ignition switch "OFF," crank engine with cranking motor. If
voltmeter reading is more than 1/10 volt, there is excessive resist-
ance in this circuit and ground strap must be cleaned or replaced
(par. 119 e).
(2) Check voltage drop between ungrounded battery terminal
(positive) and cranking motor switch stud. Place one prod of volt-
meter on ungrounded battery terminal and other on cranking motor
switch stud (fig. 107). With ignition switch "OFF," crank engine
with cranking motor. If voltmeter reading is more than 1/10 volt,
there is excessive resistance in this circuit and terminals must be
cleaned or cable replaced (par. 119 e).
(3) Check voltage drop between cranking motor housing and
vehicle frame. Place one prod of test voltmeter on cranking motor
housing and other on vehicle frame (fig. 107). With ignition switch
"OFF," crank engine with cranking motor. If voltmeter reading is

more than 1/10 volt, there is excessive resistance in this circuit. Re-
move and clean or replace transmission to frame ground strap (par.
119 e) or tighten cranking motor to clutch housing mountings.
Remove switch from cranking motor housing and clean contact
surfaces on switch and housing (par. 114 b).
121. HEADLIGHTS.
a. Description. Service headlights, mounted on right- and left-
hand fenders, are double filament "sealed beam" type (fig. 110).
These lights can only be illuminated when main light switch is in
•240•
TM 9-801
121
BATTERY CELL VOLTAGE TEST
VOLTAGE DROP TEST BETWEEN BATTERY
GROUND TERMINAL AND FRAME'
VOLTAGE DROP TEST BETWEEN
UNGROUNDED BATTERY TERMINAL
AND CRANKING MOTOR SWITCH
VOLTAGE DROP TEST BETWEEN
CRANKING MOTOR AND
FRAME
RA PD 332984
Figure 107—Battery Cell and Line Voltage Tests, Using
Low-Reading Voltmeter (17-T-5575)
736603 O 47 16
•241
TM 9-801
121
CENTERLINE AHEAD OF LEFT
HEADLIGHT
HEADLIGHT LEVEL /
DISTANCE BETWEEN HEADLIGHTS
CENTERLINE AHEAD OF RIGHT
HEADLIGHT
HEIGHT OF CENTER OF HEADLIGHT
TRUCK AXIS
CENTERLINE ACROSS FRONT OF
HEADLIGHTS
Figure 108— Headlight Adjustment Chart
RA PD 64734
operating position (par. 12 h). Upper and lower beams are selected
by the foot operated dimmer switch on cab toe board.
b. Aiming Adjustment. Headlights can be adjusted quickly and
accurately with a headlight tester; however, if this equipment is not
available, adjustment can be made as follows:
(1) POSITION VEHICLE (fig. 108). Place vehicle on level floor
so that headlights are 25 feet from a smooth vertical surface, such
as a door or wall, preferably of a light color. The centerline of ve-
hicle should be at right angles to the vertical surface.
(2) LOCATE HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL LINES (fig. 109).
Measure height of headlight center from floor, then draw a horizontal
line on vertical surface at this height. Locate point on this line at
which projected centerline of vehicle intersects. Measure distance
between headlight centers and divide this distance equally on both
sides of center mark. Draw a vertical line through each of these
points. The points at which these two vertical lines intersect the
horizontal line represent the centers of the right and left headlights.
(3) TURN ON HEADLIGHTS. Turn on headlights at main light
switch on instrument panel and select high beam with dimmer
switch.
(4) ADJUST HEADLIGHTS (fig. 109). Cover one headlight while
adjusting the other. Loosen nut attaching headlight to bracket on
fender. Aim headlight so that beam pattern registers with horizontal
and vertical lines in manner shown in figure 109, and tighten nut
•242•
TM 9-801
121
CENTER LINE AHEAD ~\ p r
OT LEFT HAND LIGHT \ •
CENTER LINE
UOF VEHICLE
HOT SPOT SHOULD BE ~|
CENTERED UP AND 1
DOWN ON LINE A-A 1
/^CENTER UNE AHEAD
/ OF RIGHT HAND LJOHT
f HOT SPOT 81
1 BE CENTERS
ON LINE B-B
SOULD
D SIDEWAYS
/HEADLIGHT CENTER LEVEL
. p////////Mtt
. ", . '//////. / .
^y
A fy///j///////.
22222 2Z22Z
23
S//////////S,
Vif FOB ALL VEHICLES
AIM RIGHT HAND LIGHT
SAME AS LEFT. EXCEPT
CENTER HOT SPOT
SIDEWAYS ON LINE C-C
'HOT SPO
• OF HEADLIGHT
Figure 109—Headlight Aiming Pattern

RA PD 56096
securely, taking care not to change location of light beam pattern on
vertical surface. Cover this light and adjust opposite headlight in the
same manner.
c. Sealed Beam Lamp-Unit Removal (fig. 110). The complete
sealed beam unit must be replaced whenever the headlight lamp
burns out. The sealed beam unit comprises a lens, reflector, and
lamp element sealed as a unit. Unit can be removed with assembly
mounted on vehicle.
(1) REMOVE MOULDING. Remove moulding clamp screw at bot-
tom of headlight lens and remove moulding ring.
(2) REMOVE RETAINING RING. Remove three screws attaching
sealed beam unit retaining ring to headlight body and remove
retaining ring.
(3) REMOVE SEALED BEAM UNIT. Pull sealed beam unit [ (GM-
925000) G85-01-01970] out of headlight body and pull wiring plug
off prongs at rear of sealed beam unit.
d. Sealed Beam Lamp-Unit Installation (fig. 110).
(1) INSTALL SEALED BEAM UNIT. Press wiring plug over prongs
at rear of sealed beam unit and place sealed beam unit in headlight
body.
(2) INSTALL RETAINING RING. Installed sealed beam unit re-
taining ring and attach to headlight body with three screws.
(3) INSTALL MOULDING. Install moulding ring on headlight
body with clip on ring engaged in slot at top of body. Install screw
in moulding clamp at bottom of headlight lens and tighten securely.
e. Headlight Assembly Removal (fig. 110).
(1) DISCONNECT WIRING. Loosen two screws attaching
headlight wires to junction block located on inside of fender skirt.
Remove nut and lock washer attaching ground wire to junction
•243•
TM 9-801
121
A RETAINING RING
B RETAINING RING SCREW
C SEALED BEAM UNIT
D HEADLIGHT BODY
E WIRING PLUG
MOULDING RING
G MOULDING RING CLAMP SCREW
H MOUNTING STUD
I RUBBER GROMMETS
J WIRING ASSEMBLY
.>»>W!«.V»-.
Figure 110—Headlight Assembly
RA PD 64765
block bolt, or screw and lock washer at fender skirt on late vehicles.
Pull wiring out of fender skirt.
(2) REMOVE HEADLIGHT. Remove nut, lock washer, and mount-
ing washer from bolt attaching headlight to bracket on fender. Lift
headlight up and pull wiring out of fender.
f. Headlight Assembly Installation.
(1) INSTALL HEADLIGHT. Thread wiring through hole in fender
and position headlight with mounting bolt through hole in headlight
fender bracket. Press rubber grommet into place around wiring in
fender. Install mounting washer, lock washer, and nut on mounting
bolt and turn up finger-tight.
(2) CONNECT WIRING. Install wires on junction block terminals,
being sure color of headlight wire matches color of harness wire
(par. 128). Condenser pigtail wire must also be installed at right-
hand headlight junction, block. Tighten screws securely. Install
ground wire connection on junction block bolt and attach with nut
and lock washer. On late vehicles, position ground wire on fender
skirt and attach with screw and lock washer.
(3) ADJUST HEADLIGHT. Aim headlight beam as directed in
subparagraph b above.
•244•
TM 9-801
122
122. BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT.
a. Description. Blackout driving light (fig. Ill), mounted on
the left fender to the left of the headlight, is a sealed-beam type.
On some vehicles, light is controlled by a push-pull type switch on
the instrument panel (marked B.O. Drive) when the main light
switch is in "BLACKOUT" position. On some vehicles light is con-
trolled by rotary-type main light switch. The blackout driving light
furnishes a diffused light beam of low intensity to permit limited
illumination when driving under blackout conditions.
b. Blackout Driving Sealed Beam Lamp-Unit Removal (fig.
111). Sealed beam unit comprises a lens, reflector, lamp element,
and beam visor sealed together as a unit. This lamp-unit may be re-
moved with assembly mounted on vehicle.
(1) REMOVE MOULDING SCREW. Remove door retaining screw
at bottom of lens.
(2) REMOVE SEALED BEAM LAMP-UNIT ASSEMBLY. Pull door
out at bottom and raise sealed beam lamp-unit upward to free clip
at top of light body.
(3) DISCONNECT WIRES. Loosen screws attaching light wire to
rear of sealed beam unit and ground wire to retaining ring, and re-
move wires.
(4) REMOVE RETAINING RING. Use screw driver to loosen three
spring clips attaching retaining ring and sealed beam unit' [ (GM-
5934473) Ml-01-07347] in moulding.
c. Blackout Driving Sealed Beam Lamp-Unit Installation
(fig. HI).
FRONT MARKER LIGHT
A SEALED BEAM LAMP UNIT
B DOOR ASSEMBLY
C DOOR SCREW
D RING ASSEMBLY
E GROUND WIRE SCREW
F BODY ASSEMBLY
BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT
G TERMINAL SCREW
H WIRE ASSEMBLY
I GROUND WIRE
J MOUNTING STUD
K LAMP
L DOOR GASKET
RA PD 332940
Figure 111 —Blackout Driving and Front Marker Lights
•245•
TM 9-801
122-123
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
(1) ASSEMBLE SEALED BEAM UNIT. Place door around front of
sealed beam lamp-unit with split in moulding at bottom. Locate re-
taining ring with clips at back of sealed beam lamp-unit and force
three retaining ring springs under flange of door.
(2) CONNECT WIRES. Install light wire under screw head at
rear of sealed beam lamp-unit and tighten screw securely. Attach
ground wire to retaining ring in the same manner.
(3) INSTALL SEALED BEAM LAMP-UNIT. Installed sealed beam
unit assembly in light body with moulding clip engaged in slot at
top of body. Install retaining screw at bottom of moulding.
(I. Blackout Driving Light Assembly Removal (fig. 111).
(1) DISCONNECT WIRE. Loosen screw attaching blackout driv-
ing light wire to junction block located on inside of left-hand fender
skirt and remove wire. Pull wire out of fender skirt and fender re-
inforcement.
(2) REMOVE LIGHT. Remove nut, lock washer, special washer,
and external toothed lock washer from bolt attaching blackout driv-
ing light to bracket on fender. Lift light up, pulling wire out of
fender.
e. Blackout Driving Light Assembly Installation (fig. 111).
(1) INSTALL LIGHT. Place light on fender with wire inserted
through hole in fender and the mounting bolt through bracket. In-
stall, in the order named, external toothed lock washer, special
washer, lock washer, and nut. Draw nut up finger-tight.
(2) CONNECT WIRE. Thread wire through hole in fender re-
inforcement and through fender skirt. Connect wire to junction block
with harness wire of matching color and tighten screw securely.
(3) ADJUST LIGHT. Hold light so the beam visor is in a hori-
zontal position, pointing straight ahead of the vehicle, and tighten
mounting nut securely.
123. BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHTS.
a. Description. Blackout marker lights (fig. 11l) are mounted
on the fenders at the side of each headlight, and are illuminated only
when the main light switch on instrument panel is in "BLACKOUT"
position. Blackout marker lights incorporate a specially designed lens
and a colored filter which diffuses the light beam.

b. Door, Gasket, and Lamp Removal (fig. 111). These parts

can be removed with assembly mounted on vehicle. Remove screw
at bottom of marker light door. Pull door out at bottom and lift up
to disengage door clip from light body. Remove door gasket from
inside of body. Push lamp inward and turn to left to remove lamp
from socket.
c. Door, Gasket, and Lamp Installation (fig. 111). Insert lamp
in socket and turn to right. Test lamp by turning light switch on. In-
stall door gasket in light body. Install door assembly on light body
with clip on door engaging slot at top of body. Install door retaining
screw at bottom of door and tighten securely.
•246•
TM 9-801
123-124
d. Blackout Marker Lights Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT WIRE. Disconnect blackout marker light wire
from harness by pulling plug on wire out of socket on harness. Pull
wire out of clip on inside of fender skirt, withdraw from hole in
fender skirt, and remove from clip under fender reinforcement
(2) REMOVE FENDER REINFORCEMENT. Remove nut and in-
ternal-external toothed lock washer from bolts at each end of rein-
forcement. Remove nuts, lock washers, and flat washers from two
bolts attaching fender reinforcement to fender and headlight bracket.
Remove reinforcement. Rear bolt will be withdrawn with reinforce-
ment.
(3) REMOVE BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHT. Pull loom off blackout
marker light mounting stud and wire. Remove nut and internal-
external toothed lock washer from mounting stud. Remove black-
out marker light by raising it up and pulling wire out of fender.
e. Blackout Marker Lights Installation.
(1) INSTALL BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHT. Insert blackout marker
light wire and mounting stud through fender. Make sure dowel on
light base is in dowel hole in fender. Slide internal-external toothed
lock washer and nut over wire and install on mounting stud. Tighten
nut securely. Insert wire through loom and force loom over mounting
stud up to the nut.
(2) INSTALL FENDER REINFORCEMENT. Insert wire and loom
through hole in fender reinforcement and position reinforcement
against fender with bolt through rear end of reinforcement inserted
through fender, skirt, and hood side panel bracket. Install nuts, lock
washers, and flat washers on two bolts attaching reinforcement to
fender and headlight bracket, being sure wire clip is in place under
flat washer on rearward bolt. Draw nuts up finger-tight. Install and
tighten bolts, internal-external toothed lock washers, and nuts at
each end of reinforcement. Tighten the two nuts on bolts at head-
light bracket.
(3) CONNECT WIRE. Install wire and loom in clip under re-
inforcement and insert wire through fender skirt. Be sure grommet is
in place in fender skirt. Insert plug on wire into socket on harness

and install wire and loom in clip on inside of fender skirt.

124. STOP AND TAILLIGHTS.
a. Description. The stop and taillights, mounted at the rear
corners of the vehicle, consists of two units. The left-hand light in-
corporates a combination stop and tail lamp-unit in the upper por-
tion, and a blackout taillight lamp-unit in the— lower portion (fig.
112). The right-hand light incorporates a blackout stop lamp-unit in
the upper portion, and a blackout tail lamp-unit in the lower portion
(fig. 112). The beams of stop and taillights are diffused so that they
are not visible from above.
b. Lamp-Unit Removal (fig. 112). Remove two screws attach-
ing door to light body and remove door. Remove each lamp-unit [B.O.
stop—(GM-5933121) Ml-01-07408; B.O. tail—(GM-5933078)
•247•
TM 9-801
124
TRUCK,
-TON, 6x6
SERVICE STOP AND TAILLIGHT
A SERVICE STOP AND TAIL LAMP UNIT
B BLACKOUT STOP LAMP UNIT
C BLACKOUT TAIL LAMP UNIT
D LAMP UNIT DOOR
BLACKOUT STOP AND TAILLIGHT
E DOOR RETAINING SCREW
F LIGHT BODY
G MOUNTING STUD
RA PD 333023
Figure 112—Stop and Taillight Assemblies
Ml-01-07407; stop light—(GM-5933104) Ml-01-07416] from body
by pulling outward.
c. Lamp-Unit Installation (fig. 112). Install lamp-unit into
body in its correct position. Lower units on both sides are marked
"BLACKOUT TAIL SIGNAL," upper right-hand unit is marked
"BLACKOUT STOP SIGNAL," while upper left-hand unit is un-
identified. Position door over lamp-unit and body. Install two screws
and tighten sufficiently to hold door to body.
d. Light Removal (fig. 112). Remove wiring connectors from
sockets at rear of light by pressing inward on connector, turning to
left and withdrawing from socket. Remove two nuts and external
toothed lock washers from studs attaching light body to bracket and
remove light assembly [left—(GM-927225) Ml-01-07249; right—
(GM-927226) M1-01-07248].
e. Light Installation (fig. 112).
(1) INSTALL LIGHT ASSEMBLY. Position light assembly on
mounting with studs extending through holes in bracket. Attach
ground wire to mounting stud. Install nuts and external toothed lock
washers on studs and tighten securely.
(2) CONNECT WIRING. Insert wiring connectors in sockets at
rear of light body, press inward and turn to left to lock in positioa
Wires should be connected as follows: Left-hand light — double con-
tact plug in top socket; single contact plug in lower socket. Right-
hand light — No. 16 black-red tracer in upper socket; No. 16 white

in lower socket. To determine color of wire, slide connector sleeve

back over loom.
•248•
TM 9-801
125-127
125. TRAILER CONNECTOR.
a. General. A four-terminal connector or socket is used at rear
end of most vehicles. Connector provides means of connecting stop
and taillights on trailer with towing vehicle so that signal is the same
at both vehicles.
b. Removal. Remove four nuts, lock washers, and bolts attach-
ing connector and cover to mounting. Pull cover (also dust shield
and ring on late models), rearward to remove. Remove screw, lock
washer, and cover at rear of connector. Remove nut, lock washer, and
wire from each of the three terminals.
r. Installation.
(1) CONNECT WIRES. Remove screw, lock washer, and cover at
rear of connector. Attach three wires to following terminals; No. 12
black to "GR"; No. 16 red-black check to "SL"; No. 16 green-black
check to "TL." Secure each wire to terminal with lock washer and
nut. Position cover over rear of connector. Install and tighten screw
with lock washer, attaching cover to connector.
(2) INSTALL CONNECTOR. Position connector against mounting
bracket with socket slot at the bottom. On late models, position dust
shield and ring against connector flanges. Install two lower bolts, lock
washers, and nuts at bottom. Position cover against flange of con-
nector (shield ring on late models), and install two bolts through
cover bracket, (ring and dust shield on late models), connector, and
mounting bracket. Install two lock washers and nuts. Tighten four
mounting bolt nuts.
Section XXIII
WIRING, HARNESSES, AND CIRCUITS
126. GENERAL.
a. The electrical system of these vehicles is six-volt type. Units
used in various electrical systems are described in other sections of
this manual as follows:
Ignition System Section XVI
Starting System Section XX
Generating System Section XXI
Battery and Lighting System Section XXII
Radio Noise Suppression System Section XXIV

• Instruments, Gages, and Switches Section XXV

127. CIRCUITS.
a. Electrical system of this vehicle is divided into the following
circuits; ignition, starting, generating, lighting, fuel gage, and horn.
Circuit diagrams (figs. 113 and 114), illustrate in a schematic man-
•249•
TM 9-801
127
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TM 9-801

TM 9-801
127-128
ner the various electrical circuits throughout the vehicle. Each cir-
cuit can be readily traced with a conventional test light or buzzer
equipment, to establish continuity of circuit.
128. WIRING AND HARNESSES.
a. Location. General arrangement of various wiring harnesses
and electrical units is illustrated in figure 115. Each harness is lo-
K1 K:
A INSTRUMENT PANEL
B WATER TEMPERATURE GAGE
C FUEL LEVEL GAGE
C1 "IGN" NO. 16 WHITE—RED TR.
C1 "TANK" NO. 16 GREEN
D INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS
D' NO. 16 GREEN BLACK CH.
E SPEEDOMETER
F OIL PRESSURE GAGE
G AMMETER
G1 NO. 14 GREEN WITH NO. 10 YELLOW
G1 NO. 8 YELLOW (TO BATTERY FILTER)
G1 NO. 16 TAN—RED AND BLACK CR. TR.
G' NO. 8 RED (TO CRANKING MOTOR)
H CAB WIRING HARNESS
I AMMETER TO CRANKING MOTOR (NO. 8 RED)
J IGN. SWITCH TO PRIMARY IGN. FILTER
(NO. 14 BLACK)
K INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHT SWITCH
K1 NO. 16 GREEN—BLACK CH.
K1 NO. 16 BLACK—GREEN TR.
L HORN CIRCUIT BREAKER
V NO. 16 TAN—RED AND BLACK CR. TR.
L1 NO. 16 TAN—RED AND BLACK CR. TR.
M IGNITION SWITCH
M' NO. 14 GREEN
M1 NO. 16 WHITE—RED TR.
MJ NO. 14 BLACK
N MAIN LIGHT SWITCH

N-' "SS" NO. 16 BLACK—RED CH.

N1 TT" NO. 16 GREEN—BLACK CH.
N5 "SW NO. 16 RED
N< "B" NO. 10 YELLOW
N' "BHT" No. 16 WHITE—BLACK TR. WITH
NO. 16 WHITE
N' "HT" NO. 12 BLACK—GREEN TR. WITH
NO. 16 BLACK—GREEN TR.
N' "BS" NO. 16 BLACK—RED TR.
N* "S" NO. 16 RED—BLACK TR.
O BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT SWITCH
O' NO. 16 WHITE—BLACK TR.
O1 NO. 16 WHITE—BLACK TR.
P AMMETER TO BATTERY FILTER WIRE
(NO. 8 YELLOW)
Q TO HORN BUTTON TERMINAL ON STEERING
COLUMN (NO. 14 BLACK—WHITE TR.—LARGE)
RA PD 333025
Figure 116—Instrument Panel Wiring Connections
(Push-Pull Main Light Switch)
•253•
TM 9-801
128
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
A INSTRUMENT PANEL
B OIL PRESSURE GAGE
C INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS
C' NO. 16 GREEN—BLACK CH.
D SPEEDOMETER
E CAB WIRING HARNESS
F AMMETER TO CRANKING MOTOR (NO. 8 RED)
G HORN CIRCUIT BREAKER
G' NO. 14 TAN—RED AND BLACK CR. TR.
G1 NO. 14 TAN—RED AND BLACK CR. TR.
H MAIN LIGHT SWITCH
H' "B" NO. 10 YELLOW
H1 "BHT" NO. 16 WHITE
H] "BOD" NO. 16 WHITE—BLACK TR.
H4 "SW" NO. 16 RED
H5 "BS" NO. 16 BLACK—RED TR.
H' "SS" NO. 16 RED—BLACK CH.
H' "S" NO. 16 RED—BLACK TR.
H' "TT NO. 16 GREEN—BLACK CH.
H' "HT" NO. 12 BLACK—GREEN TR. WITH 2
NO. 16 BLACK—GREEN TR.
I AMMETER
I1 NO. 16 TAN—RED AND BLACK CR. TR.
I1 NO. 8 RED (TO CRANKING MOTOR)
I3 NO. 8 YELLOW (TO BATTERY FILTER)
I' NO. 14 GREEN WITH NO. 10 YELLOW
J FUEL LEVEL GAGE
J1 "TANK" NO. 16 GREEN
f "IGN" NO. 16 WHITE—RED TR.
K IGNITION SWITCH
K' NO. 14 GREEN
K1 NO. 14 BLACK (TO PRIMARY CIRCUIT
FILTER)
K1 NO. 16 WHITE—RED TR.
L INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHT SWITCH
L1 NO. 16 GREEN—BLACK CH. (3)

L1 NO. 16 GREEN—GREEN TR.

M TO HORN BUTTON TERMINAL ON STEERING
COLUMN WIRE (NO. 14 BLACK—WHITE TR.
LARGE)
N AMMETER TO BATTERY FILTER WIRE (NO. 8
YELLOW)
O WATER TEMPERATURE GAGE
RA PD 333026
Figure 1 1 7 — Instrument Panel Wiring Connections
(Rotary Main Light Switch)
cated to provide maximum accessibility for replacement or other
service.
Ij. Splices. Whenever it is necessary to splice a wire, or repair
one that is broken, always use solder to bond the splice. Use insulat-
ing tape profusely to cover all bare wires.
c. Identification. Each wire can easily be identified by its size,
color, and pattern. Each wire size and color, also pattern design, is
shown in figures 113 and 114. Whenever practical, a group of wires
are arranged into harnesses. Wires which are included in a harness
are indicated in figures 113 and 114 by showing them as passing
through a loom. In several instances it has not been possible or prac-
tical to show several short wires at instrument panel within the cab
wiring harness loom.
•254•
TM 9-801
128
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. 16 IHITR.BLACK TR.
JRCTIOR BLOCK
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. 12 IHITI— BLACK CR.
. 16 BLACK.GII TR.
IIRI II
. 14 BLACK
. 14 BLACK- IHITR TR. (
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. 16 GII.BLACK CH.
. 16 ID.BLACK TR.
. 16 BLACK.GII RTRIF
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IIIR HARRRRR
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TM 9-801
128
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
K'
SYMBOL AND CIRCUIT
A1 INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS
A1 INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS
B1 INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS
B2 INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS
B2 DIMMER SWITCH FEED
B2 SERVICE TAILLIGHT FEED
B' DIMMER SWITCH FEED
B4 SERVICE TAILLIGHT FEED
C1 FUEL GAGE FEED
C2 FUEL GAGE FEED
D' HORN FEED
D2 HORN FEED
E1 HORN
• E2 HORN
F' IGNITION SWITCH FEED
P IGNITION SWITCH FEED
F» LIGHT SWITCH FEED
F' LIGHT SWITCH FEED
G1 BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT
G2 BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT
H' BLACKOUT STOP LIGHT
H2 BLACKOUT STOP LIGHT
I1 STOP LIGHT SWITCH
I2 STOP LIGHT SWITCH
J1 STOP LIGHT SWITCH FEED
J2 STOP LIGHT SWITCH FEED
K1 BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT
K2 BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT
K2 BLACKOUT HEAD & TAILLIGHTS
K' BLACKOUT HEAD & TAILLIGHTS
L1 SERVICE STOP LIGHT FEED
L2 SERVICE STOP LIGHT FEED
M1 TRAILER TAILLIGHT
M2 TRAILER TAILLIGHT
N1 FUEL GAGE
N2 FUEL GAGE
O1 HORN
O2 HORN
P1 HEADLIGHTS —DIM
P2 HEADLIGHTS—DIM
Q1 HEADLIGHTS—BRIGHT
Q2 HEADLIGHTS—BRIGHT
WIRE SIZE AND COLOR
NO. 16 GREEN-BLACK CH.
NO. 16 GREEN-BLACK CH.
NO. 16 BLACK-GREEN TR.
NO. 16 WHITE-RED TR.
NO. 16 WHITE-RED TR.
NO. 14 TAN-RED & BLACK X TR.
NO. 14 GREEN
NO. 14 GREEN
NO.. 10 YELLOW
NO. 10 YELLOW
NO. 16 WHITE-BLACK TR.
NO. 16 BLACK-RED CH.

TM 9-801
128
O'
WIRE SIZE AND COLOR
TERMINAL
SYMBOL AND CIRCUIT
A' MAIN LIGHT SWITCH FEED
A2 MAIN LIGHT SWITCH FEED
A2 IGNITION SWITCH FEED
A3 IGNITION SWITCH FEED
B1 HORN CIRCUIT BREAKER FEED
B2 HORN CIRCUIT BREAKER FEED
C1 HORN FEED
C1 HORN FEED
D1 BLACKOUT LIGHTS FEED
D2 BLACKOUT LIGHTS FEED
E1 BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT FEED
E2 BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT FEED
F1 STOP LIGHT SWITCH FEED
F2 STOP LIGHT SWITCH FEED
G1 BLACKOUT STOP LIGHT FEED
G2 BLACKOUT STOP LIGHT FEED
H1 STOP LIGHT SWITCH RETURN
H2 STOP LIGHT SWITCH RETURN
I1 STOP LIGHT FEED
P STOP LIGHT FEED
J1 TRAILER TAILLIGHT FEED
J2 TRAILER TAILLIGHT FEED
K1 INSTRUMENT LAMP SWITCH FEED
SERVICE TAILLIGHT FEED
DIMMER SWITCH FEED
K2 INSTRUMENT LAMP SWITCH FEED
K* DIMMER SWITCH FEED
K* SERVICE TAILLIGHT FEED
I1 FUEL GAGE
L2 FUEL GAGE
M1 INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS
M2 INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHT

M3 INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHT

M« INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHT
N1 FUEL GAGE FEED
N2 FUEL GAGE FEED
O' DIM HEADLIGHT FEED
O* DIM HEADLIGHT FEED
P1 BRIGHT HEADLIGHT FEED
P2 BRIGHT HEADLIGHT FEED
Q' HORN BUTTON
Q2 HORN BUTTON
RA PD 333000
Figure 120—Cab Wiring Harness (Rotary Main Light Switch)
NO. 10 YELLOW
LIGHT SWITCH "B"
NO. 10 YELLOW
AMMETER
NO. 14 GREEN
AMMETER
NO. 14 GREEN
IGNITION SWITCH
NO. 14 TAN-RED & BLACK CR. TR.
CIRCUIT BREAKER
AMMETER
CIRCUIT BREAKER
NO. 2 UPPER JCT.
NO. 16 WHITE
LIGHT SWITCH "BHT"
NO. 16 WHITE
TM 9-801
128
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
SYMBOL CIRCUIT
Ai SERVICE TAILLIGHT
A2 SERVICE TAILLIGHT
Bi BLACKOUT TAILLIGHT
62 BLACKOUT TAIL-
LIGHT-L.H.
&i BLACKOUT TAIL-
LIGHT-R.H.
Ci TRAILER TAILLIGHT
Ca TRAILER TAILLIGHT
Di BLACKOUT STOP LIGHT
DJ BLACKOUT STOP LIGHT
Ei SERVICE STOP LIGHT
Ei SERVICE STOP LIGHT
Ft STOP LIGHT SWITCH
Fi STOP LIGHT SWITCH
Fa TRAILER STOP LIGHT
Gi STOP LIGHT SWITCH
G2 STOP LIGHT SWITCH
Hi FUEL GAGE
Hi FUEL GAGE
HJ FUEL GAGE
Hi FUEL GAGE
li TRAILER SOCKET
GROUND
h TRAILER SOCKET
GROUND
WIRE SIZE AND COLOR
NO. 16 WHITE
NO. 16 WHITE
NO. 16 WHITE
NO. 16 BLACK-GREEN CH.
NO. 16 BLACK-GREEN CH.
-NO. 16 BLACK-RED TR.

NO. 16 BLACK-RED TR.

NO. 16 RED-BLACK TR.
NO. 16 RED-BLACK TR.
NO. 16 RED
NO. 16 RED
(LONG W.B.)
NO. 16 GREEN
(SHORT W.B.)
(LONG W.B.)
NO. 16 GREEN
(SHORT W.B.)
NO. 12 BLACK
NO. 12 BLACK
TERMINAL
NO. STOP JCT.N
CONNECTOR
NO. 1 TOP JCT.
CONNECTOR
CONNECTOR
NO. 1 BOTTOM JCT.
TRAILER SOCKET "TL"
NO. 6 BOTTOM JCT.
CONNECTOR
NO. 2 BOTTOM JCT.
CONNECTOR
NO. 5 BOTTOM JCT.

TM 9-801
128
gages, or other electrical units. Remove clips and grommets neces-
sary to accomplish removal. When wires have been disconnected and
clips or grommets removed, the wire or harness can then be com-
pletely removed. When installing, locate the wire or harness in its
correct position, being sure that clips and grommets are installed.
Attach individual wires to the respective unit or junction block ter-
minal. Tighten connections. Bear in mind: A clean and tight electri-
cal connection is a good connection.
(1) CAB WIRING HARNESS (figs. 119 and 120). Two cab wiring
harnesses have been used with these vehicles. The first (fig. 119), is
used only with vehicles having a push-pull main light switch. The
second (fig. 120), is used only with vehicles having a rotary main
light switch. This harness, identified by yellow tracer in the loom,
extends from junction blocks on front of dash (fig. 118), through
hole in dash, then to instruments, gages, and switches at rear of in-
strument board (figs. 116 and 117). Raise engine hood to gain access
to junction blocks. Remove instrument panel cluster assembly (par.
136) to gain access to electrical units terminal.
(2) CHASSIS WIRING HARNESS (fig. 121). This harness, identi-
fied by a red tracer in the loom, extends from junction blocks on
front of dash (fig. 118), to stop light switch, fuel tank gage, stop and
SYMBOL AND CIRCUIT
A1 BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT
A' BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT
B' HEADLIGHT—HIGH
B' HEADLIGHT —HIGH
B2 HEADLIGHT—HIGH
B' HEADLIGHT—HIGH
C1 HEADLIGHT—LOW
C' HEADLIGHT —LOW
C2 HEADLIGHT—LOW
C3 HEADLIGHT —LOW
D1 HORN FEED
Of HORN FEED
E1 HORN RETURN
P HORN RETURN
F1 BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHT—L.H.

F1 BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHT—R.H.
P BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHT—L.H.
F» BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHT—R.H.
WIRE SIZE AND COLOR
NO. 12 WHITE-BLACK CR. TR.
NO. 14 WHITE-GREEN TR.
NO. 14 OR 16 TAN-RED AND
BLACK CR. TR.
NO. 14 OR 16 TAN-RED AND
BLACK CR. TR.
NO. 14 OR 16 BLACK
NO. 14 OR 16 BLACK
NO. 16 WHITE
NO. 16 WHITE
NO. 16 WHITE
NO. 16 WHITE
Figure 122— Front End Wiring Harness
TERMINAL
NO. 3-3 POST JCT.
L.H. JCT. BLOCK
NO. 4 TOP JCT.
L.H. JCT. BLOCK

TM 9-801
128-129
SYMBOL CIRCUIT
Ai GROUND
A2 GROUND
Bi GENERATOR FIELD
62 GENERATOR FIELD
Ci GENERATOR ARMATURE
Cz GENERATOR ARMATURE
WIRE SIZE AND COLOR TERMINAL
NO. 14 BLACK
NO. 14 BLACK
NO. 8 TAN-RED AND
BLACK X TR.
NO. 8 TAN-RED AND
BLACK X TR.
GEN. "GRD"
REG. "GRD"
GEN. "FLD"
FIELD FILTER
GEN. "ARM"
ARMATURE FILTER
RA PD 64640
Figure 123—Generator to Regulator and Filters Wiring Harness
taillights, and trailer socket. Harness is located under cab floor
boards at front end, then along inside of left-hand frame side rail
to the rear of vehicle.
(3) FRONT END WIRING HARNESS (fig. 122). This harness ex-
tends from junction blocks on front of dash (fig. 118) to horn, right
and left headlight junction blocks, and marker light connectors. Har-
ness is located along inside of left-hand fender skirt and over radiator
to right-hand head light junction block, on inside of right-hand
fender skirt.
(4) GENERATOR TO REGULATOR AND FILTERS WIRING HARNESS
(fig. 123). This harness extends from generator, along inside of left-
hand fender skirt, to regulator and filters on front of dash (fig. 118).
Raise engine hood to gain access to harness assembly and attaching

units.
Section XXIV
RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION SYSTEM
129. DESCRIPTION AND DATA.
a. Description. Radio noise suppression is the suppression of
noise disturbances in the electrical system of the vehicle, which
•260-
TM 9-801
129-130
would interfere with proper reception of radio signals, or permit
detection of the vehicle location by highly sensitive receivers. The
sources of electrical interference originate in the following: Ignition
System, Generating System, Battery Circuit, Lighting System and
static caused by friction.
(1) Radio frequency waves given off by these systems during
operation are radiated or broadcast as radio waves, or signals, that
interfere with any receiving apparatus in the vicinity. Radio noise
suppression, therefore, involves the suppression of these waves at
their source or confining them within an area where they cannot be
picked up by the antenna of a radio.
(2) Suppression is accomplished by the use of suppressors, con-
densers and filters. In addition, internal and/or external toothed lock
washers are used at mounting points of these units to securely
ground them and thus further eliminate electrical noises. In addi-
tion to these units, engine compartment is bonded by the use of
internal and/or external toothed lock washers and bond straps to
form a "box" within which radio frequency waves are trapped to
prevent their escape.
b. Data.
(1) FILTERS.
Make '. Delco-Remy
Model
Regulator Armature 1888263
Field Circuit 1888796
Battery Circuit 1888795
Ignition Primary Circuit 1889530
(2) CONDENSERS.
Make Delco-Remy
Model
Generator 1888918 or 1901731
Headlights 1889319 or 1901696
Stop and Taillights 1901696
Cranking Motor 1901681
(3) SUPPRESSORS.
Make Delco-Remy
Model 1887829
130. BODY AND CHASSIS BONDING.
a. General. In addition to niters, condensers, and suppressors,
internal-external toothed lock washers and bond straps are also used
at points shown in figures 124 and 125 to eliminate static discharges
from the vehicle and to form a "box" around electrical units and
prevent escape of radio frequency waves. Localized views of lock
washer and bond strap installations are shown in figures 126 and
127.
b. Lock Washers. Internal-external toothed lock washers are
used at points indicated in figures 124 and 125. Refer to text under
illustrations to determine type of mounting used at any given loca-
•261*
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TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6

TM 9-801
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TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6

TM 9-801
130
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AA RADIATOR SUPPORT BRAC- TO SID- SHJ.
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TM 9-801
130
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
tion. Then refer to figure 126 for sectional views showing lock wash-
er locations in relation to other parts used at that particular point.
(1) INSTALLATION. Whenever it is necessary to remove any
mounting where lock washers are used it is extremely important
that it be reinstalled exactly as indicated in figure 126. It should be
noted that lock washer is used under head of bolt or screw and under
nut. At points where bond straps are used, additional lock washer is
used between strap and other metal surface. Whenever it is neces-
sary to install new parts, it is extremely important that cadmium
plated lock washers be used. Never substitute with plain or parker-
ized parts. Be sure to destroy defective parts.
c. Bond Straps. Bond straps are used at points indicated in
figures 124 and 125. Refer to text under illustrations to determine
type of mounting used at any given location. Then refer to figure
127 for sectional views showing location of lock washers and method
of attaching bond strap at that particular point.
(1) INSPECTION. Inspect all bond strap attachments to be sure
that bond strap materials are not broken and that mounting bolts
and nuts are drawn up tight. IMPORTANT: It is extremely im-
portant that all straps be in good condition so as to form a good
ground. If a single strap is damaged, broken or otherwise defective,
it will result in faulty radio reception or interference with other re-
ceiving apparatus.
(2) INSTALLATION. Whenever it is necessary to remove a bond
strap it is extremely important that it be reinstalled exactly as indi-
cated in figure 127. In some instances two views are shown for a
single mounting. This is necessary due to changes in the method of
mounting; therefore, always compare illustrations with mounting on
vehicle at time of removal and reinstall exactly as illustrated. Always
LI
L2
L3
L4
L3
L6
LT
L8
L9
L K)
Lit
L 12
L 13
LI4
LIS
Lie
LIT
Lie
RA PD 64644
Figure 126—Sections of Internal and/or External Toothed
Lock Washer Installation
•266•
TM 9-801
130-131
B2
B3
B7
B8
B9
B10
B12
B13
B14
B15
B16
BI7
RA PD 332975
Figure 127—Sections of Bond Strap Mountings
use cadmium plated bolts and nuts when installing bond straps.
Never substitute plain or parkerized parts.
131. IGNITION CIRCUIT.
a. General. Suppression of noises arising from ignition circuit is
accomplished by the use of ignition primary circuit filter, spark plug
and secondary wire suppressors, also internal-external toothed lock
washers at ignition coil mounting bracket
b. Ignition Primary Circuit Filter.
(1) TEST. Filter should be tested to be sure that it provides a
continuous circuit from terminal to terminal and that no internal
shorts or grounds exist.
(a) Continuous Circuit Test. Disconnect wires from both ter-
minals and connect test light between two terminals. If light does
not light it indicates that there is an "open circuit" within filter, and
unit must be replaced.
(b) Test for Short. Disconnect wires from both terminals and
connect one test light lead to one of the terminals while other lead
contacts filter body. If light works, it indicates that there is a short
and unit must be replaced. Follow this same procedure on other
terminal.
. (2) REMOVAL.
(a) Remove Wires. Remove screw at two terminals then lift

wires from terminals.
•267•
TM 9-801
131
(b) Remove Filter. Remove two nuts and lock washers from
mounting bolts at inside of cab dash. Remove two bolts and flat
washers attaching filter to front of dash. Remove filter and mounting
bracket from dash, noting that lock washer is used between filter
mounting bracket and dash.
(3) INSTALLATION.
(a) Clean Mounting Surface. Clean mounting surface of filter
bracket and front of dash to remove all dirt, paint, grease or other
foreign matter.
(b) Install Filter. Position filter and mounting bracket against
front of dash, using internal-external toothed lock washers between
filter mounting bracket and dash. Install bolts through filter mounting
bracket and dash, using flat washers under head of bolts. Install ex-
ternal toothed lock washers and nuts to bolts at inside of dash.
Tighten nuts.
(c) Connect Wires. Attach ignition switch to filter and ignition
coil to filter wires (No. 14 Black) to filter terminals. Use external
toothed lock washer between wire terminal and filter. Tighten ter-
minal screw.
A REGULATOR
B BATTERY CIRCUIT FILTER
C ARMATURE CIRCUIT FILTER
D FIELD CIRCUIT FILTER
E JUNCTION BLOCK-BOTTOM
F SERVICE TAILLIGHT CONDENSER
G TRAILER STOP LIGHT CONDENSER
H JUNCTION BLOCK-TOP
I JUNCTION BLOCK-3 POST
J FILTER REINFORCEMENT
K REGULATOR REINFORCEMENT
L TOOTHED LOCK WASHER
RA PD 333063
Figure 128—Regulator, Filters, and Condenser Mounting
•268•
TM 9-801
131-132
c. Ignition Coil. When ignition coil is removed (par. 90), it is
imperative that internal-external toothed lock washers be used un-
der mounting stud nuts at time of installation (par. 90).
132. GENERATING CIRCUIT.
a. General. Radio suppression of the generating circuit is ac-
complished through the use of three filters mounted on front of
dash (fig. 128) and condenser at generator (fig. 129). Internal-ex-
ternal toothed lock washers used at regulator and filter mounting
are also essential to suppression of radio noises.
b. Filters.
(1) TEST. Refer to paragraph 131 b (1) for testing procedure.
(2) REMOVAL.
(a) Remove Wires. Remove screw at two terminals, then lift
wires from terminals.
(b) Remove Filter. Remove two nuts and lock washers (four at
armature circuit filter) from mounting bolts at inside of cab dash.
Remove bolts and lock washers attaching filter to front of dash. Re-
move filter and mounting bracket from dash, noting that lock washer
is used between filter mounting bracket and dash. Spacer is also used
at one side of field circuit filter.
( 3 ) INSTALLATION.
(a) Clean Mounting Surface. Clean mounting surfaces of filter
mounting bracket, and front of dash to remove all dirt, paint, grease
or other foreign matter.
(b) Install Filter (fig. 128). Position filter and mounting bracket
against front of dash, using internal-external toothed lock washer be-
tween mounting bracket and dash. Spacer is also used at one side of
field filter. Install bolts through filter, mounting bracket, and dash,
using external toothed lock washers under head of bolts. Install ex-
ternal toothed lock washers and nuts to bolts at inside of dash.
Tighten nuts.
RA PD 332983
Figure 129—Candenser Installation at Generatar
•269•
TM 9-801
132-133
TRUCK, 21/a-TON, 6x6
(c) Install Wires. Attach wires to filter terminals. Refer to fig-
ures 113 and 114 for wire identification and connections. Use exter-
nal toothed lock washer between wire terminal and filter. Tighten
terminal screw.
c. Condenser.
(1) REMOVAL (fig. 129). Remove nut and lock washer from
generator "ARM" terminal. Lift wires from terminal Remove screw
and lock washers attaching ground wire and condenser to generator.
Lift condenser from generator.
(2) TEST. Testing of condenser must be accomplished with a
condenser tester (17-T-5541). Each factor affecting condenser op-
eration must be considered when making tests. Condensers used on
this vehicle should meet following specifications: Megohms 6000;
Capacity 0.085 - 0.13 MFD; Flash 600 Volts DC.
(3) INSTALLATION (fig. 129). Clean all contact surfaces and
wire terminals. Attach condenser and ground wire (No. 14 Black) to
generator, using screw and two internal-external toothed lock wash-
ers. Tighten screw. Attach condenser pig-tail wire and armature wire
(No. 8 Tan-Red and Black Cr. Tr.), to "ARM" terminal, using nut
and lock washer. Tighten nut
133. BATTERY CIRCUIT.
a. General. Radio suppression of the battery or cranking motor
circuit is accomplished through the use of a condenser, mounted on
cranking motor housing and connected to cranking motor switch
CRANKING MOTOR SWITCH STUD
RA PD 333061
Figure 130—Condenser Installation at Cranking Motor
•27O•
TM 9-801
133-134
(fig. 130). Condenser bypasses and grounds static waves which
would flow into battery and up the lead to the radio receiver.
b. Condenser.
(1) REMOVAL (fig. 130). Remove nut and lock washer from
cranking motor switch terminal. Lift condenser pig-tail wire from
terminal. Remove screw and lock washer attaching condenser and
switch to cranking motor housing.
( 2 ) TEST. Refer to paragraph 13 2 c ( 2 ).
(3 ) INSTALLATION (fig. 130). Clean all contact surfaces and wire
terminals. Attach condenser to cranking motor housing, using screw
and internal-external toothed lock washer. Tighten screw. Position
condenser pig-tail over cranking motor switch stud and install lock
washer and nut. Tighten nut
134. LIGHTING CIRCUIT.
a. General. Radio suppression of lighting circuit is accom-
plished by use of four condensers, two at right-hand headlight junc-
tion block (fig. 131) and two at junction blocks on front of dash
(fig. 128).
b. Condenser.
(1) REMOVAL (fig. 131). Remove nut and lock washer attaching
condenser pig-tail to junction block terminal. Remove nut and lock
washer attaching condenser to dash or fender skirt. Remove bolt,
lock washers, and condenser. During removal note location and type
of lock washer, so that same type can be reinstalled in its correct
location.
( 2 ) TEST. Refer to paragraph 132 c ( 2 ).
(3) INSTALLATION (fig. 131). Clean all contact surfaces and
wire terminals. Locate condenser in its correct position and attach
RA PD 64719
Figure 131 —Headlight Beam Condenser Installation
•271•
TM 9-801
134-136
with bolt and nut. Be sure that internal-external toothed lock wash-
ers are used under head of bolt and at each side of condenser bracket;
except at junction block condensers which use external toothed lock
washer under nut at inside of dash. Tighten nuts securely.
Section XXV
INSTRUMENTS, GAGES/ AND SWITCHES
135. GENERAL.
a. The gages and panel lights are grouped in an instrument
panel which is mounted on instrument board in front of driver. The
switches, circuit breaker, throttle control, and choke control are
mounted along the lower edge of the instrument board.
b. Early and Late Types. Early vehicles were equipped with
a push-pull type main light switch with a separate switch for the
blackout driving light (fig. 132). Latest vehicles are equipped with
a rotary type main light switch incorporating contacts for blackout
driving light. Separate blackout light switch is therefore eliminated
and ignition switch and main light switch are relocated (fig. 134).
c. CAUTION: Disconnect battery cable at battery before tight-
ening instrument mountings or electrical connections, and when
replacing units to prevent damage due to shorting the electrical
circuits.
136. INSTRUMENT PANEL ASSEMBLY.
a. Instrument Panel Removal (figs. 15, 132, 133, and 134).
(1) DISCONNECT BATTERY CABLE. Disconnect battery cable
from battery terminal before attempting removal of instrument
panel.
(2) DISCONNECT THERMAL UNIT AT ENGINE. Unscrew thermo
gage thermal unit from cylinder head fitting. Either drain cooling
system until coolant level is below level of thermal unit, or plug
cylinder head fitting immediately after removal of thermal unit.
Remove bond strap, remove grommet from around capillary tube
at dash, and push tube and thermal unit through hole in dash.
(3) DISCONNECT OIL PRESSURE GAGE TUBE. Unscrew tubing
nut attaching oil tube to back of gage.
(4) DISCONNECT SPEEDOMETER CABLE. Unscrew knurled nut
at back of speedometer head and pull cable free from speedometer.

Remove nut and washer attaching wiring harness clip to speedometer

mounting clamp and free harness clip from speedometer stud.
•272•
TM 9-801
136-137
INSTRUMENTS, GAGES, AND SWITCHES
(5) REMOVE INSTRUMENT PANEL MOUNTING SCREWS. Remove
five nuts, lock washers, and screws attaching instrument panel to in-
strument board. Push on face of instrument panel to tilt panel down-
ward.
(6) DISCONNECT WIRING AND REMOVE PANEL. Disconnect wir-
ing at all terminals at back of instrument panel. Pull on wires at back
of three panel lights to disconnect. Remove instrument panel from
vehicle.
b. Instrument Panel Installation (figs. 15, 132, 133, and 134).
(1) POSITION INSTRUMENT PANEL IN INSTRUMENT BOARD.
Position instrument panel in tilted position in instrument board from
back.
(2) CONNECT WIRING. Connect wiring to fuel gage as described
in paragraph 140 c (2). Connect the No. 8 yellow, No. 10 yellow,
and No. 14 green wires to ammeter terminal farthest from fuel
gage; connect the other wires to the other ammeter terminal. Con-
nect panel lights by pushing socket and lamp at end of each wire into
shield in instrument panel.
(3) ATTACH INSTRUMENT PANEL TO INSTRUMENT BOARD. Posi-
tion instrument panel in instrument board and install five attaching
screws, lock washers, and nuts.
(4) CONNECT SPEEDOMETER CABLE. Fit cable shaft tongue into
fitting in speedometer head. Pull cable casing against speedometer
head and connect by tightening knurled nut on speedometer head
fitting. Position wiring harness and clip on speedometer head stud
and install lock washer and nut.
(5) CONNECT OIL PRESSURE GAGE TUBE. Position flanged end
of tube against fitting at back of oil pressure gage. Screw tubing nut
on gage fitting and tighten nut carefully to prevent leakage.
(6) INSTALL THERMAL UNIT IN ENGINE. Insert thermal unit
and capillary tube through hole in cowl. Screw thermal unit into
cylinder head fitting and tighten firmly, then fill cooling system (par.
17). Fit grommet around capillary tube and attach to dash, then
attach bond strap to tube.
137. SPEEDOMETER AND DRIVE CABLE.
a. Speedometer Head Removal (figs. 132, 133, and 134).

(1) DISCONNECT CABLE AT SPEEDOMETER HEAD. At rear side of

speedometer head, unscrew knurled nut attaching cable to head. Pull
cable free.
(2) REMOVE SPEEDOMETER HEAD. Remove two nuts attaching
mounting clamp to speedometer. Remove wiring harness clip. Take
off mounting clamp and press on rear of speedometer head to remove
from front of instrument board.
b. Speedometer Head Installation (figs. 132, 133, and 134).
(1) INSTALL SPEEDOMETER HEAD. Position speedometer head
in instrument panel from front side of panel. Install mounting clamp
over studs at back of speedometer. Position wiring harness clip over
upper stud. Install two nuts and tighten securely.
736603 0-47-18 • 273 *

TM 9-801
137
ABCDEFG
HIJKHLM
BB
A HORN CIRCUIT BREAKER
B FUEL GAGE CIRCUIT BREAKER
(EARLY MODELS)
C THROTTLE CONTROL
D AMMETER
E AMMETER CLAMP
F FUEL GAGE
G WIRING TERMINAL (TO HORN
TERMINAL ON STEERING COLUMN)
H INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS
I WIRING HARNESS CLIP
J SPEEDOMETER CLAMP
K SPEEDOMETER
L OIL PRESSURE GAGE CLAMP
M OIL PRESSURE GAGE
N INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHT SWITCH
O WIRING TERMINAL (TO IGNITION
PRIMARY CIRCUIT FILTER ON COWL)
P CHOKE CONTROL
Q WIRING TERMINAL (TO BATTERY
CIRCUIT FILTER ON COWL)
R IGNITION SWITCH
S COWL VENTILATOR OPERATING
LEVER
T MAIN LIGHT SWITCH
U WIRING TERMINAL (TO SWITCH
ON CRANKING MOTOR)
V FUEL GAGE CLAMP
W BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT
SWITCH
X WATER TEMPERATURE GAGE
CLAMP
Y WATER TEMPERATURE GAGE

Z WIRING TERMINALS (TO DIMMER

SWITCH)
AA TEMPERATURE GAGE THERMAL
UNIT
BB WIRING TERMINALS (TO
JUNCTION BLOCK ON COWL)
CC WIRING TERMINALS (TO
JUNCTION BLOCK ON COWL)
«A PD 333064
Figure 132—Instrument Panel, Gages, and Switches—Rear View
(Push-Pull Main Light Switch)
• 274 •
TM 9-801
137
A OIL PRESSURE GAGE CLAMP
B WATER TEMPERATURE GAGE
CLAMP
C SPEEDOMETER CLAMP
D FUEL GAGE FIBRE INSULATOR
E FUEL GAGE CLAMP
F AMMETER CLAMP
G INSTRUMENT CLUSTER PANEL
OUTLINE
H AMMETER
I FUEL GAGE
J TEMPERATURE GAGE THERMAL
UNIT
K OIL PRESSURE GAGE
L PANEL LIGHT SHIELD
M WATER TEMPERATURE GAGE
N SPEEDOMETER
O PANEL LIGHT SHIELD AND
EXTENSION
P PANEL LAMP
KA PD 64639
Figure 133—Instrument Panel and Related Parts
(2) CONNECT SPEEDOMETER CABLE TO SPEEDOMETER HEAD.
Insert drive shaft tongue into fitting at rear of speedometer head and
pull drive shaft casing against fitting. Attach by tightening knurled
nut on speedometer head.
c. Speedometer Drive Cable Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT CABLE AT SPEEDOMETER. Unscrew knurled nut
at back of speedometer head and pull drive cable free from speed-
ometer.
(2) REMOVE CABLE CLIPS. Remove nuts, washers, bolts, and
•275•
TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2'A-TON, 6x6
137-139
clips attaching cable casing to cowl, frame side rail, and transfer
case support.
(3) DISCONNECT CABLE AT TRANSFER CASE. Unscrew knurled
nut attaching cable to transfer case. Pull drive cable free from
transfer case.
(4) REMOVE SPEEDOMETER CABLE. Pull end of cable through
dash panel after loosening grommet. Grip cable midway between
ends and pull to remove cable [GM-1566712 casing; GM-1566714
(G85-30-05290) shaft] from vehicle.
d. Speedometer Drive Cable Installation.
(1) INSTALL CABLE IN VEHICLE. Position cable in vehicle be-
tween speedometer head and transfer case. Speedometer head end
Of cable must be inserted through cowl and grommet fitted around
cable at dash.
(2) CONNECT CABLE TO SPEEDOMETER. Insert tongue end of
shaft into fitting at back of speedometer head and pull shaft casing
into place against fitting. Thread knurled nut to speedometer head
and tighten snugly.
(3 ) CONNECT CABLE TO TRANSFER CASE. Fit tongue end of shaft
into position in transfer case. Pull shaft casing into place against
fitting at transfer case and tighten knurled nut
(4) INSTALL CABLE CLIPS Position cable, making sure cable is
not bent sharply at any point. Install cable clips, bolts, washers, and
nuts attaching cable to transfer case support, frame side rail, and
dash.
138. OIL PRESSURE GAGE.
a. Oil Pressure Gage Removal (fig. 133).
(1) DISCONNECT OIL^TUBE. Unscrew tubing nut attaching metal
oil tube to back of gage. Flexible tube [(GM-2127840) G501-02-
76510] need not be disturbed unless necessary to replace.
(2) REMOVE OIL GAGE. Remove two nuts and lock washers at-
taching mounting clamp to gage at back of instrument panel. Re-
move mounting clamp and press on back of gage [(GM-1506359)
G501-01-94071] to remove from driver's side of instrument panel
.
b. Oil Pressure Gage Installation (fig. 133).

(1) INSTALL OIL GAGE. Position gage in instrument panel.
Install mounting clamp on back of gage, then install lock washers
and nuts, tightening nuts firmly.
(2) CONNECT OIL TUBE. Position flanged end of tubing against
fitting on back of gage and attach with tubing nut. Tighten nut care-
fully to prevent leaks.
139. THERMO GAGE.
a. Thermo Gage Removal (fig. 133).
(1) DISCONNECT THERMAL UNIT AT ENGINE. Drain cooling sys-
tem until coolant is below level of thermal unit, or quickly plug the
opening after removal of thermal unit. Unscrew thermal unit from
•276•
TM 9-801
139-140
fitting in engine cylinder head. Loosen and remove bond strap and
grommet around capillary tube at dash and push thermal unit
through hole into cab.
(2) REMOVE THERMO GAGE. Remove two nuts and lock
washers, then remove mounting clamp from back of gage. Press on
back of gage [(GM-1511254) G508-01-94061] to remove from
driver's side of instrument panel. Withdraw capillary tube and
thermal unit through opening in instrument panel.
b. Thermo Gage Installation (fig. 133).
(1) INSTALL THERMO GAGE. Insert thermal unit and capillary
tube through holes in instrument panel and dash, then position gage
in instrument panel. Install mounting clamp on back of gage, then
install lock washers and nuts.
(2) INSTALL THERMAL UNIT IN ENGINE. Screw thermal unit
into cylinder head fitting, tightening firmly, then fill cooling system
(par. 17). Fit grommet around capillary tube and attach to dash,
then attach bond strap to tube.
140. FUEL GAGE.
a. The fuel gage system consists of a gage in the instrument
panel and a tank unit in the fuel tank, interconnected electrically.
The fuel gage tank unit replacement is described in paragraph 100.
b. Fuel Gage Removal (fig. 133).
(1) DISCONNECT WIRING. Remove two nuts and lock washers
attaching wiring to terminals at back of gage in instrument panel.
(2) REMOVE GAGE. Remove two nuts and lock washers attach-
ing mounting clamp to gage, then remove mounting clamp. Press at
back of gage [(GM-1516366) G85-33-01460] to remove from
driver's side of instrument panel.
EF
IH
A HORN CIRCUIT BREAKER
B THROTTLE CONTROL
C AMMETER
D AMMETER CLAMP
E FUEL GAGE
F PANEL LIGHTS
G SPEEDOMETER CLAMP
H WIRING HARNESS CLIP
I SPEEDOMETER HEAD
J OIL PRESSURE GAGE
K OIL PRESSURE CLAMP
L CHOKE CONTROL
M ROTARY LIGHT SWITCH
N IGNITION SWITCH
O PANEL LIGHT SWITCH
P CAPILLARY TUBE
O THERMO GAGE
RA PD 333032
Figure 134—Instrument Panel, Gages, and Switches-
Rear View (Rotary Main Light Switch)
•277•
TM 9-801
140-143
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
c. Fuel Cage Installation (fig. 133).
(1) INSTALL GAGE. Position gage in instrument panel, install
mounting clamp on back of gage, then install two lock washers and
nuts.
(2) CONNECT WIRING. Connect the white wire with red tracer
to the terminal marked "IGN" on gage, connect the green wire to
the "TANK" terminal on the gage, then install two lock washers and
nuts. NOTE: Caution tag on back of fuel gage-wires must not be
reversed or tank unit may be burned out.
141. AMMETER.
a. Ammeter Removal (fig. 133).
(1) DISCONNECT WIRING. Remove two nuts and lock washers
attaching wires to ammeter terminals and disconnect wires.
(2) REMOVE AMMETER. Remove two nuts and lock washers
attaching mounting clamp at back of ammeter, then remove mount-
ing clamp. Press on rear of ammeter [ (GM 1500601) (G85-33-
00030] to remove from driver's side of instrument panel.
b. Ammeter Installation (fig. 133).
(1) INSTALL AMMETER. Position ammeter in instrument panel.
Install mounting clamp over terminals at back of ammeter and in-
stall two lock washers and nuts.
(2) CONNECT WIRING. Connect wires to ammeter terminals as
described in paragraph 136 b (2). Be sure ammeter shows charge
with engine running at moderate speed; if not, reverse wiring con-
nections at terminals.
142. IGNITION SWITCH.
a. Ignition Switch Removal (figs. 15, 132, and 134).
(1) DISCONNECT WIRING. Remove two screws and lock washers
frcfm terminals at back of switch and disconnect wires.
(2) REMOVE SWITCH. Unscrew round nut from switch at
driver's side of instrument board. Use spanner wrench or punch in
the holes in nut to loosen nut. Push on switch from front side of
panel to remove from rear side of panel.
b. Ignition Switch Installation (figs. 15, 132, and 134).
(1) INSTALL SWITCH. Position switch on instrument board
and thread round nut on switch. Tighten round nut firmly, using
spanner wrench or punch.

(2) CONNECT WIRING. Connect wires to switch terminals with
two screws and lock washers.
143. MAIN LIGHT SWITCH.
a. Push-Pull Type Switch ( Early Vehicles).
(1) PUSH-PULL TYPE SWITCH REMOVAL (figs. 15, 132, and
135).
(a) Disconnect Wiring. Remove screws and lock washers attach-
ing wires to switch terminals.

TM 9-801
143
"BHT"
"A"
"SS"
ROTARY SWITCH
A KNOB SET SCREW
B BUSHING ASSEMBLY
C PLUNGER
D CAP SCREW
E SWITCH POST NUT
F SWITCH POST LOCK WASHER
G DASH
H SWITCH LEVER
I ESCUTCHEON PLATE
Figure 135—Main Lighting Switches
RA PD 333006
(b) Remove Switch Knob. Loosen set screw in knob and un-
screw knob.
(c) Remove Switch Bushing. Ix>osen hex head cap screw at side
of switch bushing. Press switch locking plunger and pull switch bush-
ing off end of switch.
(d) Remove Switch. Remove nut and lock washer from switch
at front of instrument board. Push on switch from front side of in-
strument board to remove.
(2) PUSH-PULL TYPE SWITCH INSTALLATION (figs. 15, 132, and
135).
(a) Connect Wiring to Switch. Install wires at terminals on
switch, and attach with screws and lock washers. Terminal markings
are shown in figure 135 and wire connections are as follows:
Terminal Circuit
A Auxiliary
B Switch to ammeter
BHT Switch to No. 1 top junction
BS Switch No. 6 bottom junction
HT Switch to No. 5 top junction
Switch to BAT terminal on
dimmer switch
Wire Size and Tracer Color

Not used
No. 10 yellow
No. 16 white
No. 16 black-red tr.
No. 16 black-green tr.
•279•
TM 9-801
143
Terminal
Wire size and tracer color
Circuif
Switch to instrument panel
light switch No. 16 black-green tr.
S Switch to No. 2 bottom junction No. 16 red-black tr.
SS Switch to No. 5 bottom junction No. 16 black-red check
TT Switch to No. 1 bottom junction No. 16 green-black check
SW Switch to No. 3 bottom junction No. 16 red
(b) Install Switch. Position switch on instrument board from
back of board. Install lock washer and nut on front of switch and
tighten nut firmly.
(c) Install Switch Bushing. Compress switch locking plunger
and position bushing on switch. Press bushing firmly against panel
and tighten hex head cap screw so bushing is locked with plunger
in upright position.
(d) Install Switch Knob. Screw knob onto switch and tighten
set screw firmly. Test operation of switch (par. 12).
b. Rotary Type Switch (Late Vehicles).
(1) ROTARY TYPE SWITCH REMOVAL (figs. 15, 134, and 135).
(a) Remove Switch Lever. Remove screw attaching switch lever
to switch and remove lever. %
(b) Remove Switch. Unscrew nut attaching switch to instrument
board, then remove lock washer, flat washer, and escutcheon plate.
.Push on switch shaft to remove switch from back of panel.
(c) Disconnect Wiring. Remove screws and lock washers attach-
ing wires to terminals and remove switch.
(2) ROTARY TYPE SWITCH INSTALLATION (figs. 15, 134, and
135).
(a) Connect Wiring. Install wires at terminals on switch and
attach with screws and lock washers. Terminal markings are shown
in figure 135, and wire connections are as follows:
Terminal Circuit
A Auxiliary
B Switch to ammeter
BHT Switch to No. 1 top junction

BOD Switch to No. 3 post junction

BS Switch to No. 6 bottom junction
HT Switch to No. 5 top junction
Switch to BAT terminal on
dimmer switch
Switch to instrument panel
light switch
Switch to No. 2 bottom junction
Color
Wire Size and Tracer
Not used
No. 10 yellow
No. 16 white
No. 16 white-black tr.
No. 16 black-red check
No. 16 red-black tr.
No. 16 red-black check
No. 16 red
No. 16 green-black check
SS
SW
TT
(b) Install Switch. Position switch in instrument board, install
escutcheon plate, lock washer, flat washer, and nut, then tighten nut
TM 9-801
144-145
144. BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT SWITCH.
a. Blackout driving light switch is used only with push-pull
type main light switch. Connections for blackout driving light are
incorporated in rotary light switch, hence necessity for separate
driving light switch is eliminated on late vehicles with rotary type
main light switch.
b. Blackout Driving Light Switch Removal (figs. 15 and 132).
(1) REMOVE SWITCH KNOB. Loosen set screw in knob, then
unscrew knob from switch.
(2) REMOVE SWITCH. Remove nut and lock washer attaching
switch to instrument board. Press on switch at driver's side of instru-
ment board to remove from board.
attaching wires to switch and remove switch.
c. Blackout Driving Light Switch Installation (figs. 15 and
132).
(1) CONNECT WIRING. Attach wires to switch with two screws
and lock washers, tightening screws firmly.
(2) INSTALL SWITCH. Position switch in instrument board from
back of board. Install lock washer and nut on switch, tightening nut
firmly.
(3) INSTALL SWITCH KNOB. Screw knob onto switch and tighten
set screw firmly.
145. PANEL LIGHTS AND SWITCH.
a. Instrument panel gages and switches are illuminated by three
lights, mounted on the instrument panel and controlled by a switch
mounted on the instrument board.
b. Panel Lamp and Socket Removal (figs. 15, 132, 133, and
134).
(1) REMOVE SHIELD, SOCKET, AND LAMP ASSEMBLY. Pry shield,
socket, and lamp assembly out of instrument panel from front side,
using screw driver.
(2 ) REMOVE LAMP AND SOCKET UNIT FROM SHIELD. Grip shield
firmly in one hand and pull on wire with other hand to pull lamp
and socket out of shield.
(3) REMOVE LAMP FROM SOCKET. Grip socket assembly in one

hand and press on lamp, turning to left to free from socket. Remove
lamp from socket with fingers. Socket remains attached to wiring
harness.
c. Panel Lamp and Socket Installation (figs. 15, 132, 133,
and 134).
(1) INSTALL LAMP IN SOCKET. Fit lamp into socket, press down,
and turn to right to install in socket.
(2) INSTALL LAMP AND SOCKET UNIT IN SHIELD. Insert lamp
and socket unit through hole in instrument panel from rear side.
Press socket into shield until it seats firmly.
•281•
TM 9-801
145-146
(3) INSTALL SHIELD, SOCKET, AND LAMP ASSEMBLY. Position
shield, socket, and lamp assembly at hole in instrument panel and
press until shield snaps into place.
d. Instrument Light Switch Removal (figs. 15, 132, and 134).
(1) REMOVE SWITCH KNOB. Loosen set screw in switch knob
and unscrew knob from switch,
(2) REMOVE SWITCH. Remove nut and lock washer attaching
switch to instrument board. Remove switch from back of instrument
board.
attaching wires to switch.
e. Instrument Light Switch Installation (figs. 15, 132, and
134).
(1) CONNECT WIRING. Attach wires to switch with two screws
and lock washers, tightening screws firmly.
(2) INSTALL SWITCH. Position switch in instrument board. In-
stall nut and lock washers, tightening nut firmly.
(3 ) INSTALL SWITCH KNOB. Screw knob onto switch and tighten
set screw firmly.
146. HORN AND BUTTON.
a. General. The electric vibrating type horn is mounted on
the intake manifold and is controlled by a button mounted in the
hub of the steering wheel. Current for operation of the horn is sup-
plied by the battery; the horn circuit is protected by an automatic
type circuit breaker mounted on the back of the instrument board.
b. Horn Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT WIRING. Remove screws and lock washers at-
taching wires to horn terminals, then disconnect wires from horn.
(2) REMOVE HORN. Remove two nuts, lock washers, and bolts
attaching horn to intake manifold and remove horn.
r. Horn Installation.
(1) INSTALL HORN. Position horn and bracket on intake mani-
fold and attach with two bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
(2) CONNECT WIRES. Attach wires to horn terminals with
washers and screws, tightening screws firmly.
d. Horn Button Removal. Remove two screws attaching horn

button retainer to steering wheel, then remove retainer, horn button,

contact, insulator, and spring.
e. Horn Button Installation. Position spring, insulator, contact,
horn button, and retainer on steering wheel, and install two retainer
screws.
f. Horn Circuit Breaker Removal (figs. 132 and 134).
(1) REMOVE CIRCUIT BREAKER FROM INSTRUMENT BOARD. Re-
move two screws, nuts, and lock washers attaching circuit breaker to
back of instrument board.
attaching wires to circuit breaker, and remove circuit breaker.
•282•
TM 9-801
146-148
g. Horn Circuit Breaker Installation (figs. 132 and 134).
(1) CONNECT WIRING. Attach wires to circuit breaker with two
screws and lock washers, tightening screws firmly.
(2) INSTALL CIRCUIT BREAKER. Position circuit breaker on
back of instrument board and install two attaching screws, nuts, and
lock washers.
147. DIMMER SWITCH.
a. Dimmer switch is located on the toe board riser to the left
of the clutch pedal and is operated by the left foot to select the upper
and lower headlight beam.
b. Dimmer Switch Removal.
(1) REMOVE SWITCH. Remove two screws and lock washers at-
taching switch to toe board support and withdraw switch.
(2) DISCONNECT WIRING. Remove three screws and lock
washers attaching wires to switch terminals, and remove switch
(GM-1997014).
c. Dimmer Switch Installation.
(1) CONNECT WIRING. Attach wires to switch with three screws
and lock washers. The No. 12 black wire with green tracer must be
attached to the "BATT" terminal; connect the other wires to the
remaining terminals.
(2) INSTALL SWITCH. Position switch in hole in toe board sup-
port and attach with two screws and lock washers, tightening screws
firmly.
148. STOP LIGHT SWITCH.
a. Stop light switch, located at the outlet end of the brake master
cylinder, is operated by the hydraulic pressure in the master cylinder.
Before replacing switch, connect the wires together and if stop lights
are not illuminated, the cause is elsewhere than in the stop light
switch.
b. Stop Light Switch Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT WIRING. Pull wires off snap terminals on
switch.
(2) CAUTION: New switch should be installed immediately
after removal of switch to prevent loss of brake fluid. Do not apply

brakes while switch is removed, as brake fluid would be lost through

opening; also it would be necessary to bleed the entire brake system
if air were admitted into the system.
(3) REMOVE SWITCH. From under vehicle, unscrew switch
(GM-1320938) from master cylinder outlet fitting.
c. Stop Light Switch Installation.
(1) INSTALL SWITCH. Thread switch into outlet fitting on brake
master cylinder and tighten firmly.
(2) CONNECT WIRING. Attach a wire to each of the two ter-
minals on the switch. Wires can be attached to either terminal.
•283•
TM 9-801
149-150
Section XXVI
CLUTCH AND CONTROLS
149. DESCRIPTION.
a. The clutch consists of two separate assemblies—the clutch
disc assembly and the clutch cover and pressure plate assembly.
The driven disc transfers engine power from the flywheel to the
transmission main drive gear shaft . The clutch cover and pressure
plate provide attachment or release of the driven disc to the flywheel
The clutch is always in "engaged" position unless purposely "dis-
engaged" by the driver.
150. CLUTCH PEDAL FREE-TRAVEL ADJUSTMENT.
a. Clutch pedal free-travel is the movement of the pedal before
the clutch starts to disengage. Pedal free-travel must be 21A inches
with new facings. As the facings wear, adjusting nuts on the adjusting,
link should be backed off to maintain a 2%-inch free-travel until the
lock nut is at the end of the thread; then clutch may be operated
until free-travel is reduced to 1 inch at which time clutch driven
member assembly (with new facings) must be replaced.
A PEDAL SHAFT BRACKET
B PEDAL ASSEMBLY
C CLUTCH AND BRAKE PEDAL SHAFT
D PULL BACK SPRING
E CLUTCH PEDAL ADJUSTING.LINK
F PULL BACK SPRING BRACKET
G CHECK NUT
H ADJUSTING .LINK NUT
I CLUTCH RELEASE FORK ASSEMBLY
(SPRING AND BALL STUD)
Figure 136—Pedal Linkage
RA PD 64626
•284•
TM 9-801
150-152
CLUTCH AND CONTROLS
b. Pedal Free-travel Adjustment.
(1) CHECK PEDAL FREE-TRAVEL. Pedal free-travel must be
checked with hand on the pedal and not with foot, as this check is
very sensitive. If free-travel of clutch is less than 2Vfe inches, and
lock nut has not already been adjusted to the end of the adjusting
link threads, adjust pedal.
(2) ADJUST PEDAL (fig. 136). Loosen check nut on adjusting
link, and turn adjusting nut in or out as may be required to obtain
proper free-travel of foot pedal. With pedal free-travel definitely
established, turn up check nut firmly against adjusting nut to prevent
adjustment from coming loose, then recheck pedal free-travel. After
limit of adjustment is reached, any free-travel in excess of 1 inch is
satisfactory.
151. CLUTCH PEDAL AND LINKAGE.
a. Description. Clutch pedal is connected to the release fork
through the linkage (fig. 136). Release fork is mounted in the clutch
housing by a ball stud and support. Inner end of the fork engages
a groove in the release bearing support for actuation of the release
bearings.
b. Clutch Pedal and Linkage Removal (fig. 136). Remove at-
taching screws from toe board assembly and remove toe board to
gain access to pedal and linkage. Disconnect pedal pull back spring
[(GM-368244) G85-11-02090]. Loosen and remove check nut and
adjusting nut, then remove adjusting link. With suitable drift, drive
out pin at outer end of pedal shaft and remove collar and pedal
assembly.
c. Clutch Pedal and Linkage Installation (fig. 136). Place
clutch pedal over end of pedal shaft. Install collar on outer end of
shaft, aline hole in collar with hole in shaft, then drive in new retain-
ing pin. Connect adjusting link to clutch pedal with threaded end
through hole in fork, then install adjusting nut and check nut, and
connect pedal pull back spring. Install toe board assembly, and
tighten attaching screws firmly. After toe board assembly has been
installed, adjust clutch pedal free-travel (par. 150 b).
152. CLUTCH REPLACEMENT.
a. Removal.
(1) REMOVE TRANSMISSION. Remove transmission assembly

(par. 154). Clutch release bearing assembly is then accessible.
(2) REMOVE RELEASE FORK AND BALL STUD ASSEMBLY. Dis-
connect pedal pull back spring. Loosen and remove check nut and
adjusting nut, then remove adjusting link. With a 3/i-inch offset open
end wrench, hold ball stud, support from inner side of clutch housing,
then remove ball stud support from outer side of clutch housing.
Release fork with ball stud can then be removed.
(3) REMOVE CLUTCH. The clutch units include clutch pressure
plate assembly (includes cover, pressure plate, springs, etc.) and
•285•
TM 9-801
152
ALINING ARBOR
RA PC 332968
Figure 137—Use of Clutch Alining Arbar (41 -A-335)
clutch driven member assembly (includes facing, torsion springs,
etc.). Insert clutch alining arbor (41-A-335) (fig. 137) through clutch
assembly and driven disc hub. Loosen the nine clutch cover to fly-
wheel cap screws one turn at a time until diaphragm spring pressure
is fully released; then completely remove all cap screws and with-
draw alining arbor and lower clutch pressure plate assembly and
clutch driven member assembly.
PULLER
RA PD 332920
Figure 138—Removing Pilot Bearing (Puller 41 -P-2906-15)
•286•
TM 9-801
152
CLUTCH AND CONTROLS
MARK ON CLUTCH
COVER
RA PD 303116
Figure 139—Removing or Installing Clutch Assembly
(4) REMOVE CLUTCH PILOT BEARING. Insert puller (41-P-
2906-15) (fig. 138) in recess of crankshaft and remove bearing.
Pilot bearing is shielded type and requires attention only when
clutch is removed from vehicle. If damaged or broken, replace.
b. Installation.
(1) INSTALL CLUTCH PILOT BEARING. Before bearing is installed
it must be lubricated as described in Section VIII. Using alining
arbor (41-A-335) with three %-inch washers, install pilot bearing.
Care must be exercised to provide exact bearing alinment with pilot
hole in flywheel housing. Install shielded side of bearing toward
transmission.
(2) ATTACH CLUTCH ASSEMBLIES TO FLYWHEEL. Hand crank
engine until "X" mark on flywheel is visible from underside of clutch
housing. Place driven member assembly and clutch pressure plate
assembly against flywheel and rotate cover until "X" mark on cover
(fig. 139) alines with "X" mark on flywheel. Insert clutch alining
arbor (41-A-335) in clutch assembly and driven disc (fig. 137), then
install cap screws which attach cover to flywheel. Each cap screw
should be tightened gradually, a turn at a time, to prevent distortion
of cover as spring pressure is taken up. Withdraw alining arbor.
(3) CLEAN, LUBRICATE, AND INSTALL BALL STUD. Lift ball stud
retainer spring out of fork and withdraw ball stud. Pack ball seat in
fork, lubricating as specified in Section VIII, and install ball stud and
•287•
TM 9-801
152-154
retainer spring. Be sure to place ends of ball retainer spring down-
ward so that spring will be completely seated in grooves in fork.
(4) INSTALL CLUTCH RELEASE FORK AND LINKAGE. Install fork
and ball stud assembly, using care to see that fingers at inner end of
fork are in groove of release bearing sleeve, then thread support into
ball stud. Make sure ball stud and support are drawn up tightly.
Attach adjusting link to clutch pedal and through fork arm, then
install adjusting nut, check nut, and pull back spring.
(5) INSTALL TRANSMISSION AND ADJUST PEDAL. Install release
bearing assembly and transmission assembly (par. 155), adjust
clutch pedal free-travel (par. 150 b).
Section XXVII
TRANSMISSION
153. DESCRIPTION.
a. The transmission is a selective sliding gear type and pro-
vides for five speeds forward and one reverse. Fourth speed
is direct, with fifth speed overdrive. Gears are selected manually
by a conventional gearshift lever. The transmission assembly is
bolted directly to the clutch housing. The power plant and transmis-
sion assembly is stabilized by a strut rod which is connected between
the rear of the transmission and the transfer case crossmember. On
models equipped with a winch or power hoist, a power take-off is
attached to the left-hand side of the transmission. All vehicles have
a transfer case high and low speed control cross shaft, mounted at
the rear of transmission case.
154. REMOVAL.
a. Preliminary Instructions. Vehicles equipped with winch
or power hoist have a power take-off installed on the left-hand side
of the transmission. The following procedure covers removal of
transmission either with or without power take-off, with differences
noted in text. Key letters in text refer to figure 140. NOTE: Transfer
case high and low speed control rods, levers, and cross shaft are
slightly different on vehicles equipped with banjo type axles than
those on vehicles having split type axles (fig. 140); however, removal
and installation procedure are the same.
b. Drain Lubricant. Remove drain plug from lower rear side of

transmission and allow lubricant to drain. Install plug after draining.

c. Remove Floor Pan. Place transfer case control levers in
neutral and pull hand brake lever to rear. Lift seal off over levers.
Remove 12 floor pan cap screws and lock washers and lift floor pan
up over levers and out of cab.
•288•
TM 9-801
154
TRANSMISSION
d. Remove Hand Brake Lever and Bracket. Release hand
brake and remove cotter pin and clevis pin attaching hand brake rod
(C) to lever. Remove two cap screws and washers (A) attaching
hand brake bracket to right-hand side of transmission cover and lift
STRUT ROD EYE
FORWARD
ADJUSTING NUT
* ADJUSTING NUT
BANJO TYPE AXLES
A CAP SCREWS
B HAND BRAKE LEVER AND BRACKET
C HAND BRAKE ROD
D RIGHT-HAND CROSS SHAFT BRACKET
E CROSS SHAFT
F HIGH AND LOW CONTROL ROD-FRONT
G PROPELLER SHAFT
H TRANSMISSION STRUT ROD
I HIGH AND LOW CONTROL ROD-REAR
J RETAINER SPRING
K LEFT-HAND CROSS SHAFT BRACKET
L PEDAL SHAFT BRACKET
M CAP SCREW
SPLIT TYPE AXLES
RA PD 333028
Figure 140—Transmission Assembly Installed (Split Type
Axles Without Pawer Take-Off Shown)
736603 O - 47 - 19 • 289 *
TM 9-801
154-155
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
hand brake lever and bracket assembly (B) out of cab. Remove cap
screw and lock washer (M) attaching speedometer cable clip to left-
hand side of cover.
e. Remove High and Low Control Lever Cross Shaft and
Brackets. Remove cotter pins and clevis pins attaching high and
low control rods (F and I) to cross shaft levers. Pull retainer spring
(J) from left end of cross shaft. Loosen rear nut on transmission
strut rod eye (fig. 140). Remove cotter pin and clevis pin attaching
strut rod (H) to left-hand cross shaft bracket (K). On vehicles with-
out power take-off, remove two nuts and lock washers from studs
attaching left-hand cross shaft bracket (K) to transmission and pull
bracket off end of studs and cross shaft (E). On vehicles with power
take-off, remove power take-off control lever or levers from stud
in side of transmission (par. 157 or 158). Remove control lever stud,
remove nut and lock washer from forward stud, and remove bracket
Remove two nuts and lock washers from studs attaching right-hand
bracket (D) to transmission and remove bracket and cross shaft
(E) assembly.
f. Disconnect Propeller Shaft. Remove four nuts, lock washers,
and bolts attaching propeller shaft universal joint (G) to main drive
gear companion flange. Swing shaft up and to one side and fasten
with a piece of wire. Disconnect power take-off drive shaft or shafts
at power take-off if used (par. 240 or 245).
g. Remove Pedal Shaft Bracket to Transmission Cap Screw.
Remove cap screw and lock washer attaching pedal shaft bracket
(L) to transmission. Loosen, but do not remove, two cap screws at-
taching pedal shaft bracket to clutch housing.
h. Remove Flywheel Underpan. Remove four cap screws
attaching flywheel underpan to clutch housing and remove under-
pan.
i. Remove Transmission. Remove lock wire from two trans-
mission to clutch housing lower cap screw heads and remove cap
screws from inside clutch housing. Support transmission on a dolly
jack or support from above with a hoist and chains. Remove two
transmission to clutch housing upper cap screws and lock washers.

With the assembly securely supported, move assembly back until

main drive gear shaft clears opening in clutch housing. CAUTION:
Do not allow weight of transmission to rest on clutch disc hub and do
not permit clutch release bearing and support assembly to drop
from release fork. Lower assembly and tip to one side to permit
gearshift lever to clear under side of chassis and withdraw from under
vehicle. Do not move clutch pedal while transmission is removed.
155. INSTALLATION.
a. Preliminary Instructions. The following procedure covers
installation of transmission either with or without power take-off,
with differences noted in text . Transfer case high and low speed con-
trol rods, levers, and cross shaft are slightly different on vehicles
equipped with banjo type axles than on vehicles equipped with split
•290•
TM 9-801
155
TRANSMISSION
type axles (fig. 140); however, installation procedures for both types
are the same. Key letters in text refer to figure 140.
b. Install Transmission. Slide transmission under vehicle and
guide gearshift lever up through floor pan opening in cab. Support
transmission on a dolly jack or support from above with a hoist and
chains. Make sure clutch release bearing and support assembly is in
place in clutch release fork. Raise assembly until main drive gear
shaft will enter release bearing and clutch disc hub and move forward
against clutch housing. CAUTION: Do not allow weight of transmis-
sion to rest on clutch disc hub. If main drive gear splines do not mesh
with splines in clutch disc hub, place transmission gearshift lever in
5th speed position and turn main drive gear shaft at rear of trans-
mission with hand to aline splines. Install two transmission to clutch
housing upper cap screws and lock washers, and inside clutch housing
install two transmission to clutch housing lower cap screws. Tighten
all four cap screws firmly and thread lock wire through holes in heads
of lower cap screws. Twist ends of lock wire together. Remove jack
from under vehicle, or remove chains as the case may be.
c. Install Flywheel Underpan. Position flywheel underpan
against under side of clutch housing and attach with four cap screws
and internal toothed lock washers. Frame to clutch housing bond
strap must be installed under head of underpan to clutch housing
left front cap screw.
d. Install Pedal Shaft Bracket to Transmission Cap Screw.
Install pedal shaft bracket (L) to transmission cap screw, using lock
washer. Tighten cap screw firmly, then tighten two pedal shaft
bracket to clutch housing cap screws.
e. Install High and Low Control Cross Shaft and Brackets.
Position right-hand bracket and cross shaft assembly (D- and E)
with holes in bracket over two studs in right-hand side of transmis-
sion. Install nuts and lock washers on studs and tighten firmly. On
vehicle without power take-off (fig. 140), place left-hand bracket
(K) over studs in left-hand side of transmission and over end of cross
shaft (E). Install nuts and lock washers and tighten firmly. On vehi-
cles with power take-off, the procedure is the same except that the
rear stud is replaced with a special stud on which power take-off

control lever or levers pivot. Install retainer spring (J) in groove

in left end of cross shaft (E). Connect transfer case high and low
control rods (F and I) to cross shaft levers, using clevis pins and new
cotter pins. Adjust high and low speed control linkage (par. 160).
On vehicles equipped with power take-off, install power take-off
control lever or levers (par. 157 or 158).
f. Connect and Adjust Transmission Strut Rod (fig. 140).
Connect forward end of strut rod (H) to left-hand cross shaft bracket,
using clevis pin and new cotter pin. Adjust rod as follows:
(1) WITH BANJO TYPE AXLES, Run forward adjusting nut
toward front of eye rod. Turn rear adjusting nut onto eye rod until
nut fully contacts bracket, then tighten rear nut one full turn. Run
forward adjusting nut back against bracket and tighten firmly.
• 291 •
TM 9-801
155-156
TRUCK, 2V3-TON, 6x6
(2) WITH SPLIT TYPE AXLES. Run rear adjusting nut toward
rear end of eye rod. Run forward adjusting nut back until nut fully
contacts bracket, then turn forward nut one full turn toward front
end of eye rod. Tighten rear adjusting nut firmly against bracket
g. Install Hand Brake Lever and Bracket. Position hand brake
lever and bracket assembly (B) on right-hand side of transmission
cover and install two cap screws (A) with lock washer under head
of rear cap screw, and ground strap, flat washer, and lock washer
under head of forward cap screw. Tighten cap screws firmly. Adjust
and connect hand brake rod (C) to hand brake lever (par. 193).
Attach speedometer cable clip to left-hand side of cover, using cap
screw and lock washer.
h. Prepare Transmission for Service. Lubricate transmission
with type and quantity of lubricant as directed in Section VIII.
Tighten filler and drain plugs firmly. Start engine and run transmis-
sion three or four minutes with shift lever in each position. This will
definitely work lubricant into close clearances.
i. Connect Propeller Shaft. Attach propeller shaft universal
joint (G) to main drive gear companion flange, using four bolts,
nuts, and lock washers. Tighten nuts firmly. Connect power take-off
drive shaft or shafts at power take-off if used (par. 240 or 245).
j. Install Floor Pan. Install floor pan over control levers in cab
and attach with 12 cap screws and lock washers. Place transfer case
control levers in neutral position, pull hand brake back, and install
floor seal over ends of levers.
Section XXVIII
POWER TAKE-OFF AND CONTROLS
156. DESCRIPTION.
a. General. Power take-off assembly, mounted on left-hand side
of transmission, provides two forward speeds and one reverse speed
for winch operation, and one speed for operation of power hoist.
Power take-off intermediate gear is constantly meshed with the
transmission reverse idler gear, making it possible to use power take-
off at any time the vehicle engine is operating. Power is transferred
to auxiliary units through drive shafts which connect directly with

power take-off output shaft. Control levers which are connected

with shift shaft at power take-off are located in cab and are shifted
manually. Difference in design of dual and single drive power take-
off assemblies are covered in succeeding paragraphs 157 and 158.
Lubricant in transmission case also lubricates power take-off as-
sembly.
•292«
TM 9-801
156-157
b. Data. Two makes of single drive power take-off assemblies are
used on early vehicles, both of which are similar in construction, and
can be identified by referring to name plate.
(1) SINGLE DRIVE (Early Vehicles).
Type Two-speed and reverse
Make Heil Gar Wood
Models B-360 67-Y-60000LG
Drive Transmission Transmission
(2) SINGLE DRIVE (Late Vehicles).
Type Two-speed and reverse
Make CMC
. GM Part No. 2200208
Drive Transmission
(3) DUAL DRIVE.
Type (winch drive)
Type (hoist drive)
Make
Drive
Two-speed and reverse
One-speed
GMC
Transmission
157. SINGLE DRIVE POWER TAKE-OFF AND CONTROLS.
a. General. Winch-equipped vehicles have a single drive power
take-off, mounted on left-hand side of transmission. Backlash be-
tween transmission gear and power take-off intermediate gear is
controlled by adding or removing gasket between the two assemblies.
Single drive assembly used on late vehicles can be converted to a
dual type by replacing the auxiliary drive shaft cover with an auxili-
SINGLE DRIVE P.T.O. (EARLY TYPE] SINGLE DRIVE P.T.O. (LATE TYPE)
RA PD 332990
Figure 141—Single Drive Power Take-Off Installation
•293•
TM 9-801
157
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
ary drive assembly. Controls for single drive power take-off consists
simply of a lever which pivots on a special stud at transmission case
and is connected directly with shift shaft arm on power take-off
assembly. Control lever lock, attached to cab floor pan, prevents
accidental engagement of power take-off which might cause serious
damage to winch mechanism (fig. 33).
b. Power Take-off Removal. Removal instructions which fol-
low apply to both the early and the late type assemblies (fig. 141),
except as otherwise stated in the text. This operation is necessary
when a transmission is being replaced by consent of higher authority.
(1) DRAIN LUBRICANT. Remove drain plug from power take-
off gear case, remove transmission filler plug and allow all lubricant
to drain into suitable receptacle. NOTE: // assembly is not equipped
with drain plug, as is the case on some early assemblies, it will be
necessary to remove transmission drain plug.
(2) REMOVE POWER TAKE-OFF TO TRANSMISSION BRACE (fig.
141). Remove floor pan retaining screws; then raise floor pan suffii-
ciently to permit access to upper end of brace. Remove two brace to
transmission cap screws and two brace to power take-off cap screws,
then remove brace.
(3) DISCONNECT WINCH DRIVE SHAFT. Loosen set screw and
move drive shaft stop collar forward. Loosen set screw in drive shaft
rear U-joint yoke; then drive yoke off power take-off shaft. NOTE:
Thread wire through U-joint and suspend winch drive shaft from
chassis to prevent slip joint from coming apart.
(4) DISCONNECT CONTROL LEVER (Early Type). Disconnect
control lever from shift shaft by removing lever to arm pin and two
flat washers.
(5) DISCONNECT CONTROL LEVER (Late Type). Move control
lever forward as far as possible. Loosen arm to shift shaft screw,
withdraw cotter pin and remove flat washer from lower end of lever.
Turn shift shaft arm away from lever, thus disengaging arm and
lever. Remove washer from lower end of lever.
(6) REMOVE ASSEMBLY FROM VEHICLE. Remove six stud nuts,
lock washers, and flat washers which mount assembly to transmis-
sion. Use pry bar to spring exhaust pipe away from assembly to per-
mit removal from stud bolts. Pull assembly away from transmission
until free from stud bolts and remove from vehicle. Remove gaskets,
and place cloth or paper covering over opening in transmission case
to prevent entance of dirt or foreign material while assembly is
removed.
c. Power Take-off Installation. Installation instructions which
follow apply to both the early and the late type assemblies unless
otherwise stated in the text.
(1) ATTACH ASSEMBLY TO TRANSMISSION. Coat three gaskets,
on both sides, with aviation type cement. Place gaskets on studs at
transmission case; then place the power take-off in position at trans-
mission case and install one flat washer, one lock washer, and a nut
on each stud. Tighten nuts in successive stages until firm.
•294*
TM 9-801
157
(2) CHECK OPERATION. There should be a small amount of
backlash between power take-off gear and reverse idler gear (approxi-
mately 0.005—0.008 in.) in transmission. This backlash can be
checked by grasping output shaft and turning, with power take-
off in gear. If backlash is excessive (noise) remove one gasket be-
tween power take-off and transmission case. If movement is not
sufficient (tight), add one gasket.
(3) INSTALL POWER TAKE-OFF TO TRANSMISSION BRACE. Posi-
tion brace, then install two cap screws with lock washers at each end
of brace. When cap screws have been firmly tightened drop floor
pan into place and install retaining screws.
(4) CONNECT WINCH DRIVE SHAFT TO POWER TAKE-OFF
SHAFT. Be certain that key is in position in power take-off shaft. With
keyway in U-joint yoke alined with key, push yoke onto power take-
off shaft. Tighten set screw in U-joint yoke and position stop collar
(par. 240).
(5) CONNECT CONTROL LEVER (Early Type). Position lower
end of control lever astride shifter shaft arm and install pin with
one retaining washer at each side of control lever.- Secure with new
cotter pin. Make sure that shifter shaft arm retaining screw is tight.
(6) CONNECT CONTROL LEVER (Late Type). With arm to shift
shaft cap screw loosened to allow arm to be turned, place flat washer
on lower end of lever, turn arm and move lever as necessary to
engage elongated hole in arm with lower end of lever. Place flat
washer on lever and against shift shaft arm, install cotter pin in lever,
then tighten arm to shift shaft screw firmly.
(7) INSTALL LUBRICANT. With drain plugs securely tightened
in power take-off and transmission, add lubricant (Section VIII)
through transmission filler plug hole until lubricant level is up to
filler plug hole. Install filler plug.
d. Winch Power Take-off Control Lever Removal (fig. 141).
(1) REMOVE FLOOR PAN. Remove transfer case control lever
seal, remove floor pan retaining screws, then remove floor pan.
(2) REMOVE WINCH POWER TAKE-OFF CONTROL LEVER (Early
Vehicles) (fig. 141). Remove cotter pin, clevis pin, and flat washers
at lower end of control lever. Remove cotter pin and flat washer
from stud at transmission, then remove control lever from vehicle.

Remove special stud and lock washer from transmission. If necessary
to remove arm from power take-off shift shaft, it is only necessary
to remove cap screw and washers from end of shift shaft and
withdraw arm.
(3) REMOVE WINCH POWER TAKE-OFF CONTROL LEVER (Late
Vehicles) (fig. 141). Loosen cap screw which attaches arm to
power take-off shift shaft. Remove cotter pin and flat washer from
lower end of lever, then turn arm and move lever as necessary to
disengage arm from lever. Remove flat washer from lower end of
control lever. Remove cotter pin and flat washer from stud at trans-
mission and remove control lever from stud. Remove special stud
and lock washer from transmission case.
•295•
TM 9-801
157-158
TRUCK, 2 Va -TON, 6x6
e. Winch Power Take-off Control Lever Installation.
(1) INSTALL CONTROL LEVER (Early Vehicles) (fig. 141). In-
stall and tighteh special stud at transmission case, using lock washer
between stud and transfer case cross shaft bracket. If shift shaft
arm has been removed, place arm on shift shaft with boot clamp
washer between arm and boot, then install arm to shaft cap screw
finger-tight. Be certain that retainer washer and lock washer are in
place under cap screw head. Place control lever on stud at trans-
mission and install flat washer and cotter pin. Place lower end of
control lever astride shift shaft arm and install clevis pin through
lever and arm, with one flat washer at each side of lever. Secure
pin, using new cotter pin, and tighten arm retaining cap screw in end
of shift shaft.
(2) INSTALL CONTROL LEVER (Late Vehicles) (fig. 141). In-
stall and tighten special stud at transmission, using lock washer
between stud and transfer case cross shaft bracket. Place control
lever on stud, then install flat washer and cotter pin. Loosen arm to
shift shaft screw sufficiently to allow arm to be turned. Place flat
washer on lower end of lever and turn arm and move lever as neces-
sary to engage elongated hole in arm with lower end of lever.
Install flat washer and cotter pin at lower end of lever, then tighten
arm to shift shaft screw firmly.
(3) INSTALL FLOOR PAN. Guide floor pan over control levers
and into position in cab, then install retaining screws. Install trans-
fer case control lever seal. Lock lever in neutral position.
158. DUAL DRIVE POWER TAKE-OFF AND CONTROLS.
a. General. Dual drive power take-off is installed on CCKW-353
(long wheelbase vehicles) equipped with winch and dump body
power hoist. The assembly is mounted on transmission in same
manner as single drive assembly (par. 157). Two types of controls
and linkage are used in shifting the dual drive power take-off. Hoist
controls and linkage used on vehicles prior to chassis serial No.
398030 (fig. 142) consists of two levers which pivot on a cross shaft
mounted on brackets which are bolted to transfer case support. The
hoist power take-off control lever is interconnected with auxiliary
shift rod at power take-off by a short rod. The hoist pump control
lever is connected with the hoist pump through rods and must
be removed from vehicle whenever power take-off linkage is re-
moved from vehicle. The winch power take-off control lever is
mounted on a special stud at transmission. Linkage comprising rods
and cross shaft fitted with pickup levers, connects winch control
lever with power take-off shift shaft arm (fig. 143). After chassis
serial No. 398029, the two control levers for shifting dual drive
power take-off pivot on a special stud at transmission. Winch power
take-off control lever is connected directly with power take-off shift
shaft arm, while the hoist power take-off control lever is connected
through a rod link with the auxiliary shift rod at power take-off
(fig. 143). Two lever locks are attached to cab floor pan to prevent
accidental engagement of power take-off assembly.
•296•
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b. Dual Power Take-off Removal. Removal procedure which
follows is for all dual drive power take-off assemblies except as
otherwise stated in text. This operation may be necessary if the
transmission is being replaced by the consent of higher authority.
(1) DRAIN LUBRICANT. Remove transmission filler plug and
power take-off drain plug and allow lubricant to drain into suitable
receptacle.
(2) REMOVE POWER TAKE-OFF TO TRANSMISSION BRACE AND
DISCONNECT WINCH DRIVE SHAFT. Accomplish operations b (2)
and (3) of paragraph 157.
(3) DISCONNECT HOIST DRIVE SHAFT. Loosen set screw in U-
joint yoke at rear of power take-off, remove drive shaft front steady
bearing from support bracket, and loosen stud nut at drive shaft
rear steady bearing. Pull drive shaft down and at same time pull
U-joint off auxiliary drive shaft at power take-off.
(4) DISCONNECT CONTROL LINKAGE (Prior to Serial No.
398030) (fig. 142). Remove clevis pins which connect rods to power
take-off shifting mechanism and allow rods to swing down and away
from assembly.
(5) DISCONNECT CONTROL LEVERS (After Serial No. 398029)
(fig. 143). With winch power take-off control lever moved forward
to "HIGH" position, remove cotter pin and flat washer from lower
end of lever. Loosen arm to shift screw and turn arm to disengage
it from lever. Remove clevis pin from lower end of hoist power take-
off control lever and remove lever to shift rod link by withdrawing
cotter pin and removing rod link from eye in shift rod.
(6) REMOVE POWER TAKE-OFF ASSEMBLY FROM VEHICLE. Ac-
complish operation b (6) in paragraph 157.
c. Dual Power Take-off Installation.
(1) ATTACH ASSEMBLY TO TRANSMISSION AND CONNECT WINCH
DRIVE SHAFT. Accomplish operations c (1) through (4) in para-
graph 157.
(2) CONNECT HOIST DRIVE SHAFT. Be certain that key is in
slot in auxiliary drive shaft at power take-off. Raise hoist drive shaft
and guide drive shaft front U-joint yoke onto shaft at power take-off.
Attach drive shaft front steady bearing to support bracket and tighten
bearing stud nut at both the front and rear bearings. Tighten set
screw in front U-joint yoke to hold joint on power take-off auxiliary
drive shaft.
(3) CONNECT CONTROL LINKAGE (Prior to Serial No. 398030).
Attach rods to shift rod and shift shaft at power take-off, using clevis
pins secured with new cotter pins (fig. 142).
(4) CONNECT CONTROL LEVERS (After Serial No. 398029).
(a) Connect Hoist Control Lever. Place hoist power take-off
control lever in the "OUT" position and engage lever lock on cab
floor. Pull auxiliary shift rod out to disengaged position. If rod link
(fig. 143) cannot be installed without moving shift rod, loosen rod
eye lock nut and screw eye in or out, as necessary, to make possible
rod link installation. Install rod link, using clevis pin to attach rod
•297•
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TRUCK,
-TON, 6x6
to lever, and two flat washers and two cotter pins at shift rod eye.
Tighten rod eye lock nut at finish of operation,
(b) Connect Winch Control Lever. With arm to shift shaft cap
screw loosened to allow arm to be turned, place flat washer on lower
end of lever; then turn arm and move lever as necessary to engage
elongated hole in arm with lower end of lever. Place flat washer on
lever and against shift shaft arm, install cotter pin in lever, and
tighten arm to shift shaft screw firmly. Lock lever in neutral position.
(5) INSTALL LUBRICANT. Install lubricant as directed in para-
graph 157 c (7).
d. Controls and Linkage Removal (Prior to chassis Serial No.
398030) (fig. 142).
(1) REMOVE FLOOR PAN. Lift out transfer case control lever
seal, remove floor pan retaining screws, and remove floor pan from
vehicle.
(2) REMOVE WINCH CONTROL LEVER. Pull out cotter pin and
remove clevis pin from yoke at cross shaft arm. Remove cotter pin
and retaining washer from pivot stud at lower end of control lever
and slide lever off stud. Use suitable wrench and remove pivot stud
and lock washer. Remove clevis pin from rod yoke at lever and
remove rod assembly from lever. Remove adjustable rod assembly
from lever. Remove adjustable rod end clevis from end of rod.
(3) REMOVE POWER TAKE-OFF SHIFTER CONTROL RODS (fig.
142). Remove clevis pins from yokes at both ends of two shifter
shaft control rods and remove rods from vehicle.
(4) REMOVE POWER HOIST CONTROL LEVERS AND CROSS SHAFT
ASSEMBLY. Disconnect power hoist valve control rod by removing
clevis pin from rod yoke at control lever. Unhook and remove brake
pedal return spring. Remove four cross shaft bracket mounting bolts,
A WINCH CONTROL LEVER
B WINCH LINKAGE ROD ASSEMBLY
C HOIST PUMP VALVE CONTROL
LEVER
D HOIST POWER TAKE-OFF
CONTROL LEVER
E CROSS SHAFT SUPPORT BRACKETS

F HOIST PUMP VALVE CONTROL
ROD
G CROSS SHAFT
H POWER TAKE-OFF SHIFTER SHAFT
CONTROL RODS
RA PD 64776
Figure 142—Dual Drive Power Take-Off Controls and Linkage
(Early Type)
•298*
TM 9-801
158
A WINCH POWER TAKE-OFF CONTROL LEVER
B HOIST POWER TAKE-OFF CONTROL LEVER
C TRANSFER CASE CONTROL CROSS SHAFT
BRACKET
D SPECIAL STUD
E LEVER TO SHIFT ROD LINK
t POWER TAKE-OFF AUXILIARY DRIVE SHIFT ROD
G SHIFT SHAFT ARM
H DUAL DRIVE POWER TAKE-OFF ASSEMBLY
RA PD 333048
Figure 143—Dual Drive Power Take-Off Contrals and Linkage
(Late Type)
nuts, lock washers, and brake pedal return spring clip, then remove
cross shaft assembly from vehicle.
(5) DISASSEMBLE CONTROL LEVERS, CROSS SHAFT, AND BRACK-
ETS ASSEMBLY. Place assembly in vise and remove clamp bolt from
one cross shaft arm, then remove arm and Woodruff key from shaft.
Strip two brackets, two hoist control levers, and one spacer from
cross shaft. Grip cross shaft in vise and remove clamp bolt, arm, and
Woodruff key from shaft.
e. Controls and Linkage Removal (After Chassis Serial No.
398029) (fig. 143).
(1) REMOVE FLOOR PAN. Lift out transfer case control levers
seal, remove floor pan retaining screws, and remove floor pan from
vehicle.
(2) REMOVE CONTROL LEVERS. Remove clevis pin from lower
end of hoist power take-off control lever, and withdraw cotter pin
from lower end of winch power take-off control lever. Loosen arm to
shift shaft cap screw; then turn shift shaft arm to disengage it from
lever. Do not lose flat washers used at each side of arm. Remove
cotter pin and flat washer from stud at transmission then remove
both levers from stud.
(3) REMOVE TRANSMISSION STUD AND AUXILIARY SHIFT ROD
LINK. With suitable wrench remove stud from transmission case.
• 299•
TM 9-801
158
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
Withdraw cotter pin from shift rod to lever link, which is connected
to auxiliary shift rod eye, and remove rod link and flat washers.
f. Controls and Linkage Installation (Prior to Chassis Serial
No. 398030) (fig. 142).
(1) ASSEMBLE CONTROL LEVERS, CROSS SHAFT, AND BRACKETS
ASSEMBLY. Place cross shaft in vise, tap a Woodruff key into slot in
shaft, and slide short cross shaft arm onto shaft and into position.
Install and tighten clamp bolt in arm. Coat cross shaft with chassis
grease and slide cross shaft inner bracket assembly over shaft and
against cross shaft arm. Assemble hoist power take-off control lever,
spacer, hoist valve control lever, and cross shaft outer bracket on
cross shaft bracket assembly in order mentioned. Tap Woodruff key
into slot at end of cross shaft and slide long cross shaft arm
into position on cross shaft. Install and tighten clamp bolt to hold
long arm in position on cross shaft.
(2) INSTALL CONTROL LEVERS, CROSS SHAFT, AND BRACKETS
ASSEMBLY. Position assembly against transfer case support with
mounting bolt holes alined. Place brake pedal return spring clip
on longest mounting bolt and install this bolt in lower hole of inner
cross shaft bracket. Install other three mounting bolts, install four
nuts and lock washers on mounting bolts, and tighten securely. ,
(3) INSTALL POWER TAKE-OFF SHIFT SHAFT CONTROL RODS
(fig. 142). Connect shorter rod between upper power take-off shift
rod and lower end of hoist power take-off control lever, using clevis
pins secured by new cotter pins at both ends of rod. Connect longer
rod between arm on cross shaft and shift shaft arm at lower power
take-off shift shaft. Install clevis pins at both ends of rod and secure
with new cotter pins.
(4) CONNECT HOIST VALVE CONTROL ROD. Connect hoist valve
control rod to lower end of hoist valve control lever using clevis
pin and secure with new cotter pin.
(5) INSTALL WINCH CONTROL LEVER. Install "pivot" stud in
bracket at left side of transmission. Position eye in lower end of
winch control lever on "pivot" stud and install retaining washer and
new cotter pin.
(6) INSTALL ADJUSTABLE ROD ASSEMBLY (fig. 142). Connect

rod to cross shaft arm using clevis pin secured by cotter pin and
start adjustable clevis on threads at other end of rod. Place power
take-off in neutral position between reverse and low gear positions
by sliding shift shaft forward into power take-off housing as far as
it will go, then pull shaft out to first notch. Screw adjustable clevis
onto rod far enough so that clevis pin can be inserted through rod
yoke and control lever without movement of shift shaft.
and into position in cab then install retaining screws. Install transfer
case control levers seal. Lock levers in neutral position.
•300•
TM 9-801
158-160
g. Controls and Linkage Installation (After Chassis Serial No.
398029) (fig. 143).
(1) INSTALL TRANSMISSION STUD AND AUXILIARY SHIFT ROD
LINK. Place lock washer on threaded end of stud. Install stud at
transmission. Install rod link in auxiliary shift rod eye with flat
washer at each side of eye; then install cotter pins in holes in rod
(fig. 143).
(2) INSTALL LEVERS ON TRANSMISSION STUD. Place winch
power take-off (longer) lever on stud at transmission with offset
in handle toward center of vehicle; then place hoist power take-off
(shorter) lever on stud with offset at lower end of lever toward
power take-off assembly. Install flat washer and cotter pin at stud.
(3) CONNECT WINCH POWER TAKE-OFF LEVER WITH SHIFT
SHAFT ARM. Loosen arm to shift shaft cap screw sufficiently to allow
arm to be turned. Place flat washer on lower end of lever and turn
arm and move lever as necessary to engage elongated hole in arm
with lower end of lever Place flat washer on lever against shift shaft
arm and install cotter pin in lever. Tighten arm to shift shaft screw
firmly.
(4) CONNECT HOIST POWER TAKE-OFF CONTROL LEVER WITH
ROD LINK. Position lower end of hoist power take-off lever in yoke
of rod link; then install clevis pin through yoke and lever. Secure
clevis pin with cotter pin.
and into position in cab. Install retaining screws and transfer case
control levers seal. Lock levers in neutral position.
Section XXIX
TRANSFER CASE AND CONTROLS
159. DESCRIPTION.
a. Transfer -case is essentially a two-speed auxiliary unit con-
sisting of a case, gears, and output shafts for transferring power to
each of the three driving axles. The transfer case is located between
the frame side rails just behind the transmission and is driven by the
transmission through a propeller shaft. It is attached to brackets
under the transfer case crossmember by cap screw. Shifting of
transfer case gears is accomplished manually through levers in the

cab (par. 16).

160. CONTROLS AND LINKAGE.
a. Preliminary Instructions. The following operations are
given in logical sequence for adjusting, removing, or installing all of
the controls and linkage; however, any part (or parts) may be inde-
•301•
TM 9-801
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TRUCK, 2V]-TON, 6x6
pendently adjusted, removed, or installed if so desired. Procedures
are the same on vehicles equipped with split or banjo type axles.
Refer to figures 144 and 145.
b. Declutching (Front Axle) Control Lever Adjustment.
(1) DISCONNECT CONTROL ROD. Disconnect declutching control
rod from declutching control lower inner lever by removing cotter
pin and clevis pin from adjustable yoke.
(2) DETERMINE POPPET BALL SEAT POSITIONS. Move declutch-
ing snifter shaft at transfer case in and out to make sure poppet ball
is seating in grooves in shaft. Movement of shaft will indicate when
poppet ball is seated. Leave shaft pulled out in the disengaged
position.
(3) ADJUST CONTROL ROD. With declutching control lever
slightly forward of a vertical position, the holes in the adjustable
yoke on declutching control rod should be in alinement with the
hole in the declutching control lower inner lever. Loosen lock nut
behind adjustable yoke and turn yoke onto or off of rod as necessary
to aline holes.
(4) CONNECT CONTROL ROD. When correct adjustment is ob-
tained, connect declutching control rod to declutching control lower
inner lever, using clevis pin and new cotter pin. Tighten lock nut
behind adjustable yoke.
c. High and Low Speed Control Lever Adjustment.
(1) DISCONNECT CONTROL ROD. Disconnect high and low
speed control rod (front) from high and low speed control lower
inner lever by removing cotter pin and clevis pin from adjustable
yoke on forward end of rod.
(2) DETERMINE POPPET BALL SEAT POSITIONS. Move high
and low speed shifter shaft at transfer case in and out to make sure
that poppet ball is seating in grooves in shaft. Movement of shaft
will indicate when poppet ball is seated. Leave shaft in neutral posi-
tion, between high and low.
(3) ADJUST CONTROL ROD. With declutching (front axle) con-
trol lever in disengaged position, set high and low speed control lever
so there is a Vs-inch clearance between this lever and the stop pad
on declutching control lower outer lever. With high and low speed
control lever in this position, holes in adjustable yoke on forward

end of high and low speed control rod (front) should be in alinement
with hole in high and low speed control lower lever. Loosen lock nut
at rear of adjustable yoke and turn yoke onto or off of rod as
necessary to aline holes.
(4) CONNECT CONTROL ROD. When correct adjustment is ob-
tained, connect high and low speed control rod (front) to high and
low speed control lower lever, using clevis pin and new cotter pin.
Tighten lock nut behind adjustable yoke.
d. Control Rods Removal. Removal of any of the three control
rods consists of removing the cotter pin and clevis pin from the yoke
at each end of the rods.
•302•
TM 9-801
160
A DECLUTCHING CONTROL UPPER LEVER
B HIGH AND LOW SPEED CONTROL
UPPER LEVER
C DECLUTCHING CONTROL LOWER OUTER LEVER
D HIGH AND LOW SPEED CONTROL
LOWER LEVER
E CONTROL LEVER BRACKET
F DECLUTCHING CONTROL LOWER INNER LEVER
G CONTROL LEVER SHAFT
H HIGH AND LOW SPEED CONTROL ROD
ADJUSTABLE YOKE
I DECLUTCHING CONTROL ROD
ADJUSTABLE YOKE
J HIGH AND LOW SPEED CONTROL
ROD (FRONT)
K DECLUTCHING CONTROL ROD
L CROSS SHAFT RIGHT-HAND LEVER
M CROSS SHAFT RIGHT-HAND SUPPORT
BRACKET
N CROSS SHAFT LEFT-HAND LEVER
O CROSS SHAFT
P CROSS SHAFT LEFT-HAND SUPPORT BRACKET
Q HIGH AND LOW SPEED CONTROL ROD (REAR)
R HIGH AND LOW SPEED SHIFTER SHAFT
S DECLUTCHING SHIFTER SHAFT
T TRANSFER CASE
RA PD 332979
Figure 144—Transfer Case Controls and Linkage
(Used with Banjo Type Axles)
e. High and Low Speed Control Cross Shaft and Brackets
Removal.
(1) REMOVE RIGHT-HAND SUPPORT BRACKET AND CROSS SHAFT-
ASSEMBLY. Pull retainer spring from left-hand end of cross shaft.
Remove two nuts and lock washers from studs attaching right-hand
support bracket to transmission. Pull bracket off studs and pull cross
shaft out of left-hand bracket and remove the assembly from the
vehicle.
(2) REMOVE LEFT-HAND SUPPORT BRACKET. Loosen rear ad-
justing nut on transmission strut rod eye bolt, then remove cotter
pin and clevis pin attaching forward end of strut rod to left-hand
cross shaft support bracket. On vehicles without power take-off, re-
move two nuts and lock washers from studs attaching left-hand
support bracket to transmission and pull bracket off studs. On vehi-
cles with power take-off, remove power hoist and/or winch control
levers from stud in left-hand side of transmission (par. 157 or 158).
Remove control lever stud, remove nut and lock washer from for-
ward stud, and remove bracket.
(3) DISASSEMBLE LEVERS, CROSS SHAFT, AND BRACKETS. Loosen
clamp bolt in each lever and slide levers off ends of shaft. Remove
Woodruff keys from shaft, then pull shaft out of bracket.
•303*
TM 9-801
160
A DECLUTCHING CONTROL UPPER LEVER
B HIGH AND LOW SPEED CONTROL
UPPER LEVER
C DECLUTCHING CONTROL LOWER OUTER LEVER
D HIGH AND LOW SPEED CONTROL
LOWER LEVER
E CONTROL LEVER BRACKET
F CONTROL LEVER SHAFT
G DECLUTCHING CONTROL LOWER INNER LEVER
H HIGH AND LOW SPEED CONTROL ROD
ADJUSTABLE YOKE
I DECLUTCHING CONTROL ROD ADJUSTABLE
YOKE
J HIGH AND LOW SPEED CONTROL
ROD (FRONT)
K DECLUTCHING CONTROL ROD
L CROSS SHAFT RIGHT-HAND LEVER
M CROSS SHAFT RIGHT-HAND SUPPORT BRACKET
N CROSS SHAFT
O CROSS SHAFT LEFT-HAND LEVER
P CROSS SHAFT LEFT-HAND SUPPORT BRACKET
O HIGH AND LOW SPEED CONTROL ROD (REAR)
R DECLUTCHING SHIFT SHAFT
S DECLUTCHING SHIFT LEVER
T HIGH AND LOW SPEED SHIFT SHAFT
U TRANSFER CASE
RA PD 332989
Figure 145—Transfer Case Controls and Linkage
(Used with Split Type Axles)
f. Control Levers Removal.
(1) REMOVE FLOOR PAN. Lift floor seal up over ends of transfer
case control levers and hand brake lever. Remove 12 floor pan cap
screws and lock washers and lift floor pan up over levers and out
of cab.
(2) REMOVE UPPER LEVERS. Remove two nuts, .lock washers,
and bolts attaching each upper lever to lower lever and remove
upper levers.
(3) REMOVE HAND BRAKE LEVER AND BRACKET. Remove cotter
pin and clevis pin attaching hand brake rod to hand brake lever.
Remove two cap screws and washers attaching hand brake bracket to
transmission cover and lift hand brake and lever assembly out of
vehicle.
(4) REMOVE TRANSMISSION COVER ASSEMBLY. On vehicles
equipped with power take-off, remove power take-off support bracket
by removing four cap screws, two at top and two at bottom. Remove
cap screw attaching speedometer cable clip to cover. Move gear-
shift lever into neutral position. Thoroughly clean transmission
cover with dry-cleaning solvent . Remove cover to case cap screws
and lift cover assembly off from transmission case. CAUTION: Do
not change position of transmission gears while cover is removed.
Cover transmission opening with cloth or paper to prevent dirt or
tools from dropping into case.
•304•
TM 9-801
160
(5) REMOVE LOWER LEVERS. Loosen clamp bolt in declutching
control lower inner lever and slide lever off end of shaft. Remove
Woodruff key from shaft. Slide high and low control lower lever off
end of shaft. Loosen clamp bolt in declutching control lower outer
lever and slide lever outward (to right) on shaft until Woodruff key
is exposed. Remove Woodruff key, then slide shaft inward (toward
transmission) and remove lever from right-hand end of shaft.
g. Control Levers Installation.
(1) INSTALL LOWER LEVERS. Insert control lever shaft through
bracket inner bushing with keyway end of shaft toward center of
vehicle. Position declutching control lower outer lever on right-hand
end of shaft with stop pad toward center of vehicle. Move shaft out-
ward (to right) through support bracket inner bushing and declutch-
ing control lever until keyseat in shaft is exposed between lever and
inner bushing in bracket. Tap Woodruff key into keyseat in shaft,
aline key with keyway in lever, and move shaft outward (to right)
until outer end of shaft enters right-hand bushing in bracket. Place
high and low speed control lower lever over left-hand end of shaft
with groove in lever toward center of vehicle. Tap Woodruff key into
keyseat in inner end of shaft and install declutching control lower
inner lever on shaft, with key alined with keyway in lever. With
inner end of shaft even with inner side of declutching control lower
inner lever, tighten clamp bolt in declutching control lower inner
lever. Locate shaft in support bracket so levers are free and with
declutching control outer lever against inner bushing in bracket;
then tighten clamp bolt in declutching control lower outer lever.
(2) INSTALL TRANSMISSION COVER ASSEMBLY. Position a new
gasket on top of transmission case. Place gearshift lever into neutral
position and place cover assembly over transmission case with one
edge of cover resting on corresponding edge of case and other edge
tilted up. Visually check alinement of shift forks in cover with collars
on gears in transmission. If gears have been moved, slide them on
shaft as necessary to aline collars with forks. Make sure first and re-
verse rocker arm is positioned to engage rocker lug on left-hand
shift rod in cover, then lower cover assembly into place on transmis-
sion. Install eight cover to case cap screws, and install power take-
off support bracket on left-hand side (if used). Attach speedometer

cable clip to left side of cover, using cap screw and lock washer.
Move gearshift lever to all positions. If gearshift lever binds, or if
gears cannot be easily shifted, remove cover and recheck alinement
of shift forks and collars in gears.
(3) INSTALL HAND BRAKE LEVER AND BRACKET. Position hand
brake lever and bracket assembly on right-hand side of transmission
cover and attach with two cap screws and lock washers. The forward
cap crew also attaches the engine ground strap, using a flat washer
between the ground strap and lock washer. Connect hand brake rod
to hand brake lever, using clevis pin and new cotter pin, and adjust
hand brake (par. 193).
(4) INSTALL UPPER LEVERS. Install upper levers on high and
low speed control lower lever and declutching control lower outer
736603 O - 47 - 20 • 305 •
TM 9-801
160-161
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
lever, attaching each with two bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
(5). INSTALL FLOOR PAN. Install floor pan over levers in cab
and attach with 12 cap screws and lock washers. Install floor seal
over hand brake lever and transfer case control levers.
h. High and Low Speed Control Cross Shaft and Brackets
Installation.
(1) ASSEMBLE LEVERS, CROSS SHAFT, AND RIGHT-HAND
BRACKET. Insert cross shaft through right-hand cross shaft support
bracket, with grooved end of shaft toward left side of vehicle. Slide
anti-rattle over left end of cross shaft. Tap Woodruff key into key-
seats in shaft and install cross shaft levers on shaft. Tighten clamp
bolts in levers firmly.
(2) INSTALL RIGHT-HAND SUPPORT BRACKET AND CROSS SHAFT
ASSEMBLY. Position right-hand bracket and cross shaft assembly
with holes in bracket over two studs in right-hand side of trans-
mission. Install nuts and lock washers on studs and tighten firmly.
(3) INSTALL LEFT-HAND SUPPORT BRACKET. On vehicles with-
out power take-off, place left-hand bracket over studs in left-hand
side of transmission and over left-hand end of cross shaft. Install
nuts and lock washers on studs and tighten firmly. Install retainer
spring on left-hand end of cross shaft. Connect and adjust trans-
mission strut rod (par. 155). On vehicles with power take-off, the
procedure is the same except that the rear stud is replaced by a
power hoist and/or winch control lever stud. Install power hoist and/
or winch control levers (pars. 157 and 158).
i. Control Rods Installation. Check clevis pins for wear and
discard any that are not full size. Obtain new pins for installation.
Attach high and low speed control rod (rear) to high and low speed
shifter shaft at transfer case and to left-hand cross shaft lever, using
clevis pins and new cotter pins. Attach high and low peed control
rod (front) to right-hand cross shaft lever in same manner, with ad-
justable yoke toward front of vehicle. Connect declutching control
rod to declutching shifter shaft, using clevis pin and new cotter pin,
with adjustable yoke toward front of vehicle. Adjust controls and
connect rods to their respective control levers (subpars. b and c
above). Lubricate linkage as directed in Section VIII.

161. TRANSFER CASE REMOVAL.

a. Drain Lubricant. Remove drain and filler plugs and allow
lubricant to drain from transfer case. After draining, install and
tighten plugs.
b. Disconnect Control Rods (fig. 144 or 145). Disconnect high
and low speed control rod (rear) and declutching control rod from
shifter shafts at transfer case by removing cotter pins and clevis pins.
c. Disconnect Speedometer Cable. Disconnect speedometer
cable from transfer case idler shaft front cap by unscrewing knurled
nut with pliers and pulling cable out of speedometer driven gear
shaft.
•306•
TM 9-801
161-162
FRAME SIDE
'**.
FRAME CROSSMEMBER
CAP SCREW LOCK PLATES
TRANSFER CASE
RA PD 332887
Figure 146—Transfer Case Mounting (Used with
Banja Type Axles)
d. Disconnect Hand Brake Control Rod and Propeller Shafts.
Disconnect hand brake control rod at rear of transfer case by re-
moving cotter pin and clevis pin. Disconnect propeller shafts at
transfer case, two in front and two at rear.
e. Remove Transfer Case.
(1) WITH BANJO TYPE AXLES (fig. 146). Place dolly jack
under transfer case and raise into position to support case. Bend cap
screw lock plates away from cap screw heads and remove eight cap
screws, four on each side. Lower transfer case on jack and withdraw
from under vehicle.
(2) WITH SPLIT TYPE AXLES (fig. 147). Lift co-driver's seat up
and latch in raised position. Remove access plate from cab floor just
to the right of the driver's seat. On late vehicles, remove spare parts
container from under co-driver's seat. Position jack under transfer
case and raise into position to support case. Bend cap screw lock
plates away from cap screw heads and remove four cap screws, two
from crossmember and two from transfer case support. Lower trans-
fer case on jack and remove from under vehicle. Do not lose spacers
from top of transfer case.
f. Remove Hand Brake Assembly. Remove hand brake as-
sembly from rear of transfer case (pars. 194 and 195).
162. TRANSFER CASE INSTALLATION.
a. Install Hand Brake Assembly. Install hand brake assembly
on rear of transfer case (pars. 194 and 195).
b. Install Transfer Case.
(1) WITH BANJO TYPE AXLES (fig. 146). Place transfer case
assembly on dolly jack and roll into approximate position under
•307'
TM 9-801
162
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
CAP SCREW
FRAME CROSSMEMBER (1
TRANSFER CASE
RA PD 332885
Figure 147—Transfer Case Mounting (Used with
Split Type Axles)
vehicle. Raise transfer case into position between supports and aline
holes in supports with threaded holes in case. With lock plates under
cap screw heads, install eight cap screws, four in each side. Tighten
cap screws firmly and bend lock plates against cap screw heads.
Lower dolly jack and remove from under vehicle.
(2) WITH SPLIT TYPE AXLES (fig. 147). Place transfer case on
dolly jack and roll into approximate position under vehicle. Raise
transfer case into position, being sure spacers are in place between
top of transfer case and crossmember. With lock plates installed
under cap screw heads, install four cap screws, two through cross-
member and spacers and two through transfer case support. Tighten
cap screws firmly and bend lock plates against cap screw heads.
Install access plate on cab floor and install spare parts box (if used).
Lower jack and remove from under vehicle.
c. Connect Hand Brake Control Rod and Propeller Shafts.
Connect hand brake control rod at rear of transfer case, using clevis
pin and new cotter pin. Adjust hand brake (par. 193). Connect pro-
peller shafts to transfer case, two at front and two at rear (par. 176).
d. Connect Speedometer Cable. Connect speedometer cable to
transfer case idler shaft front cap. Be sure that tongue on end of
cable meshes with speedometer driven gear shaft and tighten
knurled nut with pliers.
e. Connect Control Rods (fig. 144 or 145). Connect high and
low speed control rod (rear) and declutching control rod to their
•308*
TM 9-801
162-164
respective shifter shafts at transfer case, using clevis pins and new
cotter pins. Adjust transfer case control linkage (par. 160).
f. Lubricate. Check condition of magnetic drain plug [(GM-
602745) G85-32-02340], and replace if necessary. Fill transfer case
to proper level with lubricant as recommended in Section VIII.
Make sure drain and filler plugs are tight.
Section XXX
FRONT AXLE
163. DESCRIPTION.
a. Description. This section covers two types of axles, the split
type and the banjo type (fig. 7, Section II). The split or two-piece
type is so called since the housing is made in two pieces, bolted to-
gether at the differential. The banjo type housing is of one-piece con-
struction. Each is a single-reduction, bevel-gear driving unit with
full-floating axle shafts having constant velocity universal joints at
the steering knuckles. Both types are mounted on semi-elliptic
springs.
b. Operation. Power is transmitted from the transfer case to
the front axle by a tubular propeller shaft. The engagement and dis-
engagement of the front axle is controlled at the transfer case by
a shift lever in the cab. Detailed instructions covering front axle
engagement and disengagement are given in paragraph 16.
c. Data.
Type GM Number
Banjo Type (with conventional brake drums) 3663017
Banjo Type (with demountable brake drums) 3678601
Split Type (with Bendix-Weiss universal joints) 2162378
Split Type (with Rzeppa universal joints) 2170974
164. FRONT WHEEL ALINEMENT.
a. Front wheel alinement has a major effect on steering from a
standpoint of control, ease of steering, and safety. Front wheel mis-
alinement is a major cause of premature and uneven tire wear. The
factors involved in front wheel alinement are caster, camber, turn-
ing angle, and toe-in. These factors apply to both the split type and
banjo type axles.
b. Caster. Front axle caster is the inclination of the center

line through the upper and lower steering knuckle trunnions toward
the rear of the vehicle (L, fig. 148). Caster is established by design
and will be changed only by the shifting of the front axle on the
•309•
TM 9-801
164
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
VERTICAL LINE
STEERING ARM
J./ CASTER ANGLE
KNUCKLE
BEARING
C/L
FRONT WHEEL CAMBER
FRONT AXLE CASTER
STEERING KNUCKLE STOP SCREW-
SPLIT TYPE AXLE
o—HP—c
Vi7
STEERING KNUCKLE STOP PLUG-
BANJO TYPE AXLE
H MINUS G WHEEL CAMBER
(INCHES)
J WHEEL CAMBER (DEGREES)
K BOTTOM OF STEERING ARM TO
TOP OF AXLE HOUSING
L CASTER ANGLE (DEGREES)
A MINUS B TOE-IN
C TURNING ANGLE (INSIDE)
D TURNING ANGLE (OUTSIDE)
E CENTER LINE OF STEERING ARM
BALL TO OUTSIDE OF SPRING
F BRAKE FLANGE PLATE TO CENTER
LINE OF TIE-ROD YOKE BOLT
RA PD 332781
Figure 1 48— Front Wheel and Axle Alinemont Chart
springs or by the distortion of the chassis frame or springs. There is
no adjustment for caster.
c. Camber. Front wheel camber is the outward inclination of
the wheels as viewed from the front of the vehicle, that is, the wheels
are farther apart at the top than at the bottom (J, fig. 148). There is
•310*
TM 9-801
164-165
FRONT AXLE
no adjustment for camber; however, loose wheel bearings, loose
knuckle trunnion bearings, a bent steering knuckle, or bent axle
housing will affect camber.
d. Turning Angle. Front wheel turning angle is the maximum
angle through which the wheels may be turned from the straight-
ahead position. This angle is greater for the inside wheel (C, fig.
148), than for the outside wheel (D, fig. 148).
e. Toe-in. Front wheel toe-in is the amount by which the wheels
are closer together at the front than at the rear, with the wheels in
a straight-ahead position. (A minus B, fig. 148.) Camber causes
both wheels to have a tendency to turn outward from the vehicle.
Toe-in counteracts this tendency and causes the wheels to roll
straight ahead with no scuffing action.
165. TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT.
a. Toe-in Check (fig. 148). Inflate tires to correct pressure
(par. 198), and place vehicle on a smooth, level surface with the
wheels in straight-ahead position. Place gage (41-G-510) between
the wheels ahead of the axle, with the ends of the gage bearing
against the tire side walls and with both pendant chains just touch-
ing the ground. Set gage so pointer registers zero. Move the vehicle
forward until gage is brought into position in back of the axle, with
both pendant chains just touching the ground. The pointer will in-
dicate the amount of toe-in or toe-out. Correct toe-in on both the
banjo and split type axles is i/16—%6 inch.
b. Toe-in Adjustment. Loose wheel bearings, worn bushings in
steering knuckle supports, damaged wheels, a bent steering knuckle,
ENDS OF PENDANT CHAINS JUST TOUCHING FLOOR
RA PD 332980
Figure 149—Checking Toe-In (Gage 41-G-510)
•311•
TM 9-801
165
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
TIE ROD YOKE CLAMP BOLT TIE ROD
BANJO TYPE AXLE SPLIT TYPE AXLE
RA PD 332904
Figure 150—Tie Rod Yokes
a bent axle housing, or a bent or improperly adjusted tie rod will
affect toe-in. Adjust the wheel bearings (par. 199) and replace the
wheels, if damaged (par. 197), before adjusting the tie rod to cor-
rect toe-in.
(1) REMOVE TIE ROD (fig. 150). Remove tie rod (par. 166).
On banjo type axles, remove the inner tie rod yoke clamp and lock
from left-hand tie rod yoke and loosen all clamp bolts. On split type
axles, loosen the yoke clamp bolts and loosen the lock nut at the
left end yoke.
(2) ADJUST TIE ROD (fig. 151). Screw yokes onto or off of tie
rod as required to correct toe-in. Toe-in will be increased about
Vs inch by backing right-hand yoke (coarse threads) one turn fur-
ther onto rod. Reversing this procedure will decrease toe-in by the
same amount.
(3) CHECK ADJUSTMENT. After adjusting tie rod yokes, install
tie rod yokes on steering knuckle supports (or inner flanges), and
install each tie rod yoke bolt (fig. 152). It is not necessary to install
nuts on yoke bolts until final adjustment has been made. Measure
toe-in and readjust tie rod if necessary until toe-in measurement is
correct.
(4) INSTALL TIE ROD. When adjustment is correct, reassemble
tie rod yokes to steering knuckle supports (or inner flanges), install
tie rod yoke bolts (fig. 152), and install nuts on bolts. Tighten nuts
securely and install new cotter pins. On split type axles, tighten tie
rod yoke clamp bolts and tighten lock nut at left-hand yoke (fig.
150). On banjo type axles, insert lock in left-hand tie rod yoke, mak-
ing certain it is seated in keyway in tie rod, and aline hole in lock
with clamp bolt hole (fig. 150). Insert clamp bolts, install nuts and
lock washers, and tighten securely.
•312•
TM 9-801
165
FRONT AXLE
BD
BANJO TYPE AXLE
ABC
SPLIT TYPE AXLE
A TIE ROD YOKE CLAMP BOLT
B TIE ROD YOKE
C TIE ROD YOKE LOCK NUT
D TIE ROD
Figure 151—Adjusting Toe-In
RA PD 64465
•313*
TM 9-801
166
,TIE ROD YOKE BOLT
STEERING KNUCKLE SUPPORT
BANJO TYPE AXLE
STEERING KNUCKLE INNER FLANGE
SPLIT TYPE AXLE
Figure 152—Installing Tie Rod Yoke Bolts
RA PD 332846
166. TIE ROD.
a. The tie rod is a solid rod, threaded at each end with a double
offset to clear the differential and pinion housing. The tie rod is con-
nected to the steering knuckle supports (or inner flanges) by means
of yokes, screwed onto the ends of the rod, and attached to the steer-
ing knuckle supports (or inner flanges) by tie rod yoke bolts, nuts,
and cotter pins. On the banjo type axle (fig. 150), the tie rod is
held in the correct relative position to the pinion housing by a lock
at left end which is fitted into a keyway in the rod and held in place
by the tie rod yoke inner clamp bolt. On the split type axle (fig. 150),
this is accomplished by a lock nut tightened against the left end
yoke. The threaded portion of each yoke is split and is held tightly
on the rod by clamp bolts.
b. Removal.
(1) POSITION VEHICLE. Place vehicle on a level surface and
apply hand brake. Place a jack under front axle housing and raise
enough to take weight of vehicle off front wheels.
(2) REMOVE TIE ROD YOKE BOLTS. Remove cotter pin and
nut from tie rod yoke bolt at each end of tie rod. Force bolts up out
of tie rod yokes, and slide tie rod yokes off steering knuckle supports
(or inner flanges).
c. Installation. Toe-in must be adjusted when installing tie rod.
Complete instructions on adjusting toe-in and installing tie rod on
both the split and banjo type axles are given in paragraph 165.
•314*
TM 9-801
167
FRONT AXLE
167. AXLE SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS.
a. General. The following procedures are to be used only to re-
move the axle shaft and universal joint assemblies for cleaning and
inspection (par. 46), and special lubrication operations (Section
VIII). Procedures apply to both the right- and left-hand assemblies
unless otherwise stated in text.
b. Axle Shaft and Universal Joint Removal (Banjo Type
Axles).
(1) REMOVE WHEEL. Jack up front end of vehicle, remove
wheel stud nuts, and remove wheel and tire assembly.
(2) REMOVE DRIVE FLANGE. Remove eight cap screws and
lock washers (or lock plate) attaching drive flange to hub. Install
two drive flange cap screws in the two tapped holes in drive flange
and pull drive flange off splined outer end of axle shaft by alternately
turning in the two cap screws. Remove drive flange to hub gasket
[(GM-3659733) G85-31-05780].
(3) REMOVE HUB AND DRUM ASSEMBLY. Remove wheel bear-
ing adjusting nuts and remove hub and drum assembly.
(4) REMOVE ANCHOR PLATE AND BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY (fig.
168). Install wheel cylinder clamp on wheel cylinder to prevent
ends coming off and remove brake shoe return spring. Remove six
cap screws and lock washers attaching brake shoe anchor plate to
anchor plate spacer and remove anchor plate and brake shoe as-
sembly.
(5) REMOVE ANCHOR PLATE SPACER AND OIL DEFLECTOR. Re-
move 12 cap screws and lock washers attaching brake shoe anchor
plate spacer, inner oil deflector, brake flange plate, and steering
knuckle to steering knuckle support and remove anchor plate spacer
and oil deflector.
RA PD 332925
Figure 153—Removing Axle Shaft and Universal Jaint
Assembly (Banjo Type Axle)
•315'
TM 9-801
167
(6) REMOVE BRAKE FLANGE PLATE AND STEERING KNUCKLE.
Slide brake flange plate off steering knuckle and support it with a
piece of wire to eliminate disconnecting brake hose. Remove steer-
ing knuckle and gasket from steering knuckle support.
(7) REMOVE AXLE SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINT ASSEMBLY
(fig. 153). Pull axle shaft and universal joint assembly out of axle
housing.
c. Cleaning, Inspection, and Special Lubrication Operations
(Banjo Type Axles).
(1) CLEANING. Thoroughly wash axle shaft and universal joint
in dry-cleaning solvent to remove all old lubricant; also wash inside
of steering knuckle support and housing outer end.
(2) INSPECTION. Inspect balls and ball races for grooved,
scratched, or pitted condition. To determine if excessive play or
backlash exists in the universal joint, place the assembly in a vise in
a vertical position with the outer shaft up, and with vise jaws grip-
ping the inner shaft just below the universal joint. Use soft metal or
wood protectors in jaws of vise. Firmly push down on outer shaft
so that it rests on center ball, and at the same time attempt to twist
the joint in both directions. If any play or backlash is evident, report
to higher authority. Inspect axle shaft thrust washers in steering
knuckle and axle housing for excessive wear or damage. Examine
axle shaft splines for nicks, cracks, or other damage. Report all worn
or damaged conditions to higher authority.
(3) SPECIAL LUBRICATION. Pack new lubricant (Section VIII),
well into universal joint until it fills all space between balls and
universal joint yokes. Also spread lubricant on surfaces which con-
tact thrust washers and bushing in steering knuckle.
d. Axle Shaft and Universal Joint Installation (Banjo Type
Axles).
(1) INSTALL AXLE SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINT. Using care
not to damage oil seal in housing outer end, insert axle shaft and
universal joint assembly into axle housing, guiding splined end of
inner shaft into splined differential side gear.
(2) INSTALL STEERING KNUCKLE. Place steering knuckle over
outer end of axle shaft and position against steering knuckle sup-
port, using a new gasket between knuckle and support . Milled slot
on threaded end of steering knuckle must be at the top.
(3) INSTALL BRAKE FLANGE PLATE, INNER OIL DEFLECTOR,
AND BRAKE SHOE ANCHOR PLATE SPACER. Place brake flange plate,
inner oil deflector, and brake shoe anchor plate spacer on steering
knuckle support, and install 12 cap screws and lock washers. Anchor
plate spacer must be positioned with center line through any two
opposite bosses horizontal. Tighten cap screws firmly.
(4) INSTALL ANCHOR PLATE AND BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY.
Using six cap screws and lock washers, attach anchor plate and
brake shoe assembly to anchor plate spacer and tighten cap screws
firmly. Install brake shoe return spring and remove wheel cylinder
clamp.
•316•
TM 9-801
167
FRONT AXLE
(5) INSTALL HUB AND DRUM ASSEMBLY. Install hub and drum
assembly and adjust wheel bearings (par. 199).
(6) INSTALL DRIVE FLANGE. Using a new drive flange gasket
coated with grease, install drive flange over splined outer end of axle
shaft and position against hub. Install drive flange cap screws and
.lock washers, and tighten to 85 - 95 foot-pounds.
(7) INSTALL WHEEL. Install wheel and tire assembly on hub,
install wheel stud nuts, and tighten firmly. Lower jacks and remove
from under vehicle.
(8) LUBRICATE. Lubricate steering knuckle and universal joint
(Section VIII).
e. Axle Shaft and Universal Joint Removal (Split Type
Axles). NOTE: Two types of axle shaft and universal joints are
used in split type axles—Bendix Weiss and Rzeppa. The following
procedures cover both types with exceptions noted in text.
(1) REMOVE WHEEL. Jack up front end of vehicle, remove
wheel stud nuts, and remove wheel and tire assembly.
(2 ) REMOVE DRIVE FLANGE. Remove eight nuts, and lock wash-
ers from studs attaching drive flange to hub. Remove universal joint
stop bolt and stop from center of drive flange. Install two %-inch
cap screws in two tapped holes in drive flange. Pull drive flange off
axle shaft and out of hub by alternately turning in the two cap
screws. Remove drive flange to hub gasket [(GM-2144671) G57-
01-94016].
(3) REMOVE HOB AND DRUM ASSEMBLY. Remove wheel bear-
ing adjusting nuts and remove hub and drum assembly.
(4) REMOVE OIL SHIELD AND BRAKE DUST SHIELD. Remove 12
nuts and lock washers from studs attaching brake dust shield, oil
shield, and steering knuckle to outer steering knuckle flange. Remove
oil shield and brake dust shield; support brake dust shield with a
piece of wire to eliminate disconnecting brake hose.
RA PD 64662
Figure 154—Removing Axle Shaft and Universal Joint
Assembly (Split Type Axle)
•317•
TM 9-801
167
(5) REMOVE STEERING KNUCKLE. Remove steering knuckle
from outer steering knuckle flange. Knuckle can be loosened from
flange by tapping on side of knuckle with a brass hammer and driv-
ing wedge blocks between the knuckle and flange.
(6) REMOVE AXLE SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINT ASSEMBLY
(fig. 154). Withdraw axle shaft and universal joint assembly from.
axle housing.
f. Cleaning, Inspection, and Special Lubrication Operations
(Split Type Axles).
(1) BENDIX-WEISS. The Bendix-Weiss axle shaft and universal
joint assemblies used in split type axles are essentially the same as
those used in barijo type axles, and procedures given under sub-
paragraph c above apply equally to these assemblies. CAUTION:
Do not disturb spacer pins in inner ends of shafts,
(2) RZEPPA.
(a) Cleaning. Thoroughly wash axle shaft and universal joint
assembly in dry-cleaning solvent to remove all old lubricant; also
wash inside of steering knuckle flanges and housing outer end.
(b) Inspection. Check universal joint for excessive wear or
rough operation by mounting the assembly in a vise with universal
joint bell up and vise jaws gripping the shaft just below the univer-
sal joint. Use soft metal or wood protectors in vise jaws. Swing uni-
versal joint bell through its normal operating range and note any
roughness or excessive looseness. If such a condition is evident, re-
port to higher authority. Also check splines on axle shaft and uni-
versal joint bell for nicks, cracks, or other damage.
(c) Special Lubrication. Pack new lubricant (Section VIII) well
into universal joint until it fills all space between balls, cage, inner
race, and universal joint bell. Also spread grease on surface of uni-
versal joint bell which contacts bushing in steering knuckle.
g. Axle Shaft and Universal Joint Installation (Split Type
Axles).
(1) INSTALL AXLE SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINT. Using care
not to damage oil seal in axle housing near differential, insert axle
shaft and universal joint assembly into axle housing, guiding splined
end of inner shaft into splined differential side gear.

(2) INSTALL STEERING KNUCKLE, BRAKE DUST SHIELD, AND

OIL SHIELD. Slide steering knuckle over outer end of axle shaft and
position on studs in outer steering knuckle flange with milled slot in
threaded end at top. Install brake dust shield and oil shield on studs
and attach with 12 nuts and lock washers.
(3) INSTALL HUB AND DRUM ASSEMBLY. Install hub and drum
assembly and adjust wheel bearings (par. 199).
(4) INSTALL DRIVE FLANGE. Install drive flange over splined
outer end of axle shaft, using a new gasket coated with grease be-
tween flange and hub. Aline holes in flange with studs in hub and
push flange in against hub. Place universal joint stop in center of
drive flange, install stop bolt through stop into end of axle shaft,
•318•
TM 9-801
167-168
FRONT AXLE
and tighten firmly. Install eight nuts and lock washers on drive
flange to hub studs and tighten nuts to 58-62 foot-pounds.
(5) INSTALL WHEEL. Install wheel and tire assembly on hub,
install wheel stud nuts, and tighten firmly. Lower jacks and remove
from under vehicle.
(6) LUBRICATE. Lubricate steering knuckle and universal joint
(Section VIII).
168. FRONT AXLE REMOVAL.
a. Both the banjo and split type axles may be removed by the
same procedure with exceptions noted in text
b. Position Vehicle. Place vehicle on a level surface and apply
hand brake to prevent vehicle from rolling. Place a dolly jack under
differential housing and raise front end of vehicle high enough to
permit withdrawing axle assembly. Place blocks under frame side
rails at rear of front spring hanger brackets. Lower dolly jack until
entire front end weight rests on blocks. Leave dolly jack raised high
enough to support axle assembly.
c. Remove Wheels. Remove wheel stud nuts and remove wheel
and tire assembly from each side.
d. Disconnect Propeller Shaft. Disconnect propeller shaft at
differential. Tie propeller shaft up to prevent universal joint from
becoming damaged or filled with dirt.
e. Disconnect Drag Link. Disconnect drag link at axle steering
arm (par. 207). •
f. Disconnect Flexible Brake Hoses. Turn off the front brake
shut-off cock inside of right-hand frame side rail (fig. 185). Loosen
connections at frame side rails, then remove hoses from wheel
cylinders.
g. Disassemble Spring to Axle Mounting. The spring to axle
mounting is slightly different on the two types of axles, therefore,
this part of removal procedure is explained separately for each axle.
(1) BANJO TYPE AXLE. Remove nuts from U-bolts on both
sides, remove shock absorber link bracket and spring bumper blocks,
and remove U-bolts.
(2) SPLIT TYPE AXLE. Remove four nuts from spring bolts on
left side and remove shock absorber link bracket and spring bumper
block, and remove spring clip bolts. On right-hand side, remove four
nuts from studs and remove shock absorber link bracket and spring
bumper block. (The four studs will be removed from housing after
axle assembly is withdrawn from under vehicle.)
h. Remove Axle Assembly. Lower dolly jack until axle assem-
bly clears under side of chassis and withdraw from under vehicle.
(On split type axles, remove the four studs from axle housing at
right-hand spring seat.)
•319-
TM 9-801
169
169. FRONT AXLE INSTALLATION.
a. The following procedures are applicable to both the banjo
and split type axles, with exceptions noted in text.
b. Position Axle Assembly. (If axle to be installed is split type,
install four studs in tapped holes in housing at right-hand spring
seat.) Place axle assembly on dolly jack and move into position
under vehicle. Raise axle assembly into position against springs,
being certain spring center bolt heads enter alinement holes in axle
spring seats.
c. Assemble Spring to Axle Mounting. This operation differs
on the two types of axles, and will be described separately for each
type.
(1) BANJO TYPE AXLE. Install U-bolts. U-bolts of three differ-
ent lengths are used. The two shortest ones are used on the left-hand
mounting and the remaining two are used on the right-hand mount-
ing. The longer of the two on the right side is used on the inside,
adjacent to the differential . Install spring bumper blocks and shock
absorber link brackets on U-bolts, install nuts, and tighten to 170-
185 foot-pounds.
(2) SPLIT TYPE AXLE. Install spring bolts, bolt guard, spring
bumper block, and shock absorber link bracket on left-hand mount-
ing and install nuts on spring clip bolts. The bolt guard at the bottom
and the shock absorber link bracket at the top necessitates using
the two longer bolts at the front. On right-hand mounting, install
bumper block and shock absorber link bracket on studs and install
nuts. Tighten nuts on both right- and left-hand mounting to 170-185
foot-pounds.
d. Connect Propeller Shaft. Connect propeller shaft at differ-
ential (par. 176).
e. Connect Flexible Brake Hoses. Install flexible hoses in wheel
cylinders and tighten connections at frame side rails. Turn front
brake shut-off cock on.
f. Connect Drag Link. Refer to paragraph 207 for instructions
on installing and adjusting drag link on steering arm ball.
g. Install Wheels. Install wheel and tire assemblies on hubs,
install wheel stud nuts, and tighten firmly.

h. Remove Blocks and Dolly Jack. Raise front of vehicle with

dolly jack and remove blocks from under frame side rails. Lower
dolly jack and withdraw from under vehicle. Check all nuts on
spring mounting bolts for tightness with full weight of vehicle rest-
ing on springs.
i. Bleed Brakes. Bleed front wheel brakes (par. 180).
j. Lubricate. Check lubrication of complete axle assembly and
propeller shaft universal joint as instructed in Section VIII. Check
condition of filler plug gasket [(GM-344830) G85-31-05800] and
replace if necessary.
•320•
TM 9-801
170-171
Section XXXI
REAR AXLES
170. DESCRIPTION.
a. Description. The rear driving unit is a centrally supported
unit consisting of two single-reduction, spiral-bevelled driving axles.
Each axle is attached to the frame by three independent torque
rods. Both driving and braking load is transferred directly to the
chassis frame by these rods. Two types of axles are used', the banjo
type and the split type (fig. 7). The split or two-piece type is so-
called since the housing is made in two pieces, bolted together at
the differential. The banjo type housing is of one-piece construction.
b. Operation. Power is transmitted from the transfer case to
the forward rear (intermediate) axle by a single propeller shaft.
Power to the rearward rear axle is transferred from the transfer
case to a pillow block attached to the top of the forward rear (inter-
mediate) axle, and thence to the rearward axle by another propeller
shaft.
c. Data.
CM Number
Type
Frant (Inter-
mediate) Unit
Rear Unit
Banjo Type (with conventional brake drums) . .3665609 3665610
Banjo Type (with demountable brake drums) . .3678649 3678650
Split Type 2181204 2181205
171. AXLE SHAFT (BANJO TYPE AXLES).
a. Description. Axle shafts are full floating type with flanges
forged at the outer ends. The axle shafts carry the driving force from
the differential to the wheels. Flanges are attached to the hubs by
RA PD 6449S
Figure 155—Removing Rear Axle Shaft (Banjo Type Axle)
736603 O - 47 . 21
•321
TM 9-801
171-172
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
cap screws and the inner ends of the shafts are splined to the differ-
ential side gears.
h. Removal. Remove eight cap screws and lock washers attach-
ing drive flange to hub. Using two of these cap screws as puller
screws, thread them into the two tapped holes in flange (fig. 155).
Pull shaft out by alternately turning in the two cap screws. With-
draw axle shafts from hub (fig. 155) and remove gasket [(GM
3660100) G85-31-06160].
c. Installation. Make sure axle shaft is clean. Slide gasket over
end of shaft and hold in place on flange. Insert splined end of shaft
through hub and guide splines into differential side gear. Aline holes
in flange and hub and install eight cap screws with lock washers.
Tighten cap screws alternately to 70-80 foot-pounds.
172. AXLE SHAFT (SPLIT TYPE AXLES).
a. Description. Axle shafts are full-floating type with flanges
forged at the outer ends. The axle shafts carry the driving force
from the differential to the wheels. Flanges are attached to the
hubs by studs, nuts, and tapered dowels. Inner ends of the shafts
are splined to the differential side gears.
b. Removal (fig. 156). Remove eight nuts and lock washers
from flange to hub studs. Loosen puller screws and back lock nuts
out to end of threads. Alternately turn puller screws in, pulling axle
shaft and tapered dowels toward end of studs. Back puller screws
out and drive axle shaft in until flange is against hub. Pull tapered
dowels off studs. NOTE: If tapered dowels are not loose, remove
puller screws and remove lock nuts from screws. Install puller screws
and again turn them in alternately to pull tapered dowels farther
out toward end of studs. Drive axle shaft in and then remove dowels
from studs. Withdraw axle shaft from hub and remove two gaskets
[(GM-2087553) G57-01-94022] and wheel bearing oil seal from
studs.
TAPERED DOWELS
GASKET
GASKET
PULLER SCREW
REMOVING DOWELS
AXLE SHAFT
WITHDRAWING AXLE SHAFT
OIL SEAL
REMOVING OIL SEAL
RA PD 332896
Figure 156—Rear Axle Shaft Removal (Split Type Axle)
•322•
TM 9-801
172-173
REAR AXLES
CLEARANCE
LOCK WASHER
RA PD 332909
Figure 157—Axle Shaft Flange Dowel Clearance
(Split Type Axle)
c. Installation. Inspect wheel bearing oil seal. Use a new seal if
worn or damaged. Install gasket, oil seal, and another gasket on hub
studs. Make sure axle shaft is clean and insert splined end of shaft
through hub, guiding splines into differential side gear. NOTE: Hub
construction provides only two points against which the axle shaft
puller screws may bear; axle shaft must be positioned with puller
screws alined with these points. Install tapered dowels on studs, and
install nuts with lock washers. Tighten nuts alternately to 58-62
'foot-pounds. Tapered dowels are split so they will compress around
studs without bottoming against hub when nuts are tightened. There
should be a slight clearance between lock washers and flange when
nuts are tight (fig. 157). If there is no clearance, the studs, dowels,
or holes in flange are worn excessively and new parts must be
installed.
173. REAR AXLE REMOVAL.
a. Preliminary Instructions. The following procedure is ap-
plicable to either the banjo or split type axles, and to either the
rearward or forward (intermediate) unit. Figure 158 shows items
which must be disconnected prior to removing the rearward unit.
b. Jack Up Rear End. Place vehicle on a level surface and
block front wheels. Place a jack under each trunnion cross shaft
torque rod bracket (fig,, 158), and jack up rear end. Place a dolly
jack under unit to be removed and raise high enough to support unit.
c. Remove Wheels. Remove outer wheel nuts and remove
outer wheel and tire assembly, then remove inner wheel nuts and
remove inner wheel and tire assembly from each end of axle.
d. Disconnect Brake Hose. Loosen brake line connection at
frame side rail, then unscrew flexible hose from wheel cylinder at
brake flange plate (dust shield).
e. Disconnect Propeller Shaft. Disconnect propeller shaft at
differential.
•323•
TM 9-801
173-174
RA PD 332928
Figure J 58—Rear Axfe Removal (Banjo Type Shown)
f. Remove Pillow Block (Forward Unit Only). Remove four
cap screws and lock washers attaching pillow block to bracket on
axle housing and tie pillow block up to prevent it from dropping
when axle is removed.
g. Disconnect Torque Rods. Disconnect torque rods as directed
in paragraph 212.
h. Withdraw Axle Assembly. With axle resting on dolly jack,
move forward or rearward as necessary until spring ends are free
of guide brackets on axle housing and withdraw the axle assembly
from under vehicle (fig. 158).
174. REAR AXLE INSTALLATION.
a. Preliminary Instructions. The following procedure is ap-
plicable to either the banjo or split type axles, and to either the rear-
ward or forward (intermediate) unit. Figure 158 shows items which
must be connected after axle is positioned under vehicle.
b. Position Axle Assembly. Place axle assembly on dolly jack
and move into approximate position under vehicle (fig. 158). Move
axle toward rear or front of vehicle as necessary, guiding spring
ends into guide brackets on axle housing. Line uo holes in torque
rod brackets with torque rod end pins.
c. Connect Torque Rods. Connect torque rods as directed in
paragraph 212.
•324•
TM 9-801
174-176
REAR AXLES
d. Connect Propeller Shaft. Connect propeller shaft at differ-
ential (par. 176).
e. Install Pillow Block (Forward Unit Only). Attach pillow
block to bracket on axle housing, using four cap screws and lock
washers. Tighten cap screws firmly.
f. Connect Brake Hose. Install flexible brake hose into wheel
cylinder at brake flange plate (dust shield) on each end of axle and
tighten snugly. Tighten brake line connections at frame side rails and
bleed brakes (par. 180).
g. Install Wheels. Place inner wheel and tire assemblies on
hubs and install inner wheel nuts. Successively tighten opposite nuts
to prevent cocking wheel on studs. Place outer wheel and tire as-
semblies on hubs with valve stems on opposite side of hub to the
valve stems on the inner wheels. Install outer wheel nuts and tighten
alternately.
h. Lubricate Axle and Remove Jacks. Lubricate axle assembly
and propeller shaft universal joints as directed in Section VIII.
Lower jacks and remove from under vehicle.
Section XXXII
PROPELLER SHAFTS, UNIVERSAL JOINTS,
AND PILLOW BLOCK
175. DESCRIPTION.
a. Propeller Shafts and Universal Joints (fig. 159). Five pro-
peller shafts and a pillow block transfer power from the transmission
to the transfer case and three driving axles. Each shaft has a Univer-
sal joint at each end to permit angular movement of shaft during
rotation. Universal joint yoke is welded to shaft at one end and is
splined to the shaft at the other end, forming a slip joint which per-
mits telescopic action of shaft during operation.
b. Pillow Block (fig. 161). Pillow block, mounted on top of
forward rear (intermediate) axle housing, connects the two pro-
peller shafts which transfer power from the transfer case to the
rearward rear axle. The pillow block shaft is mounted on tapered
roller bearings in the pillow block. Oil seals are used at each end of
the pillow block to retain lubricant.
176. PROPELLER SHAFTS AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS.

a. General. Propeller shafts are connected to their respective

units either by two U-bolts or by four straight bolts, depending on the
type of flange used. The following shafts are attached at both ends
•325•
TM 9-801
176
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
WITH SPLIT TYPE AXLE
WITH BANJO TYPE AXLE
A PROPELLER SHAFT TO FRONT AXLE
B TRANSFER CASE TO TRANSMISSION
PROPELLER SHAFT
C TRANSFER CASE TO FORWARD REAR AXLE
PROPELLER SHAFT
D TRANSFER CASE TO PILLOW BLOCK
PROPELLER SHAFT
E PILLOW BLOCK TO REARWARD REAR
AXLE PROPELLER SHAFT
F PILLOW BLOCK ASSEMBLY
Figure 159—Prapeller Shaft Lacation
RA PD 332923
by U-bolts; transfer case to front axle; transfer case to forward rear
(intermediate) axle; pillow block to rear axle. Transfer case to pil-
low block shaft is attached to the pillow block by U-bolts and to the
transfer case by straight bolts. Transmission to transfer case shaft is
attached at both ends by straight bolts. The slip joint and shaft are
marked with arrows so that if the universal joint yoke is removed
from the shaft, they may be reassembled in their original position
with the universal joint yokes in the same plane.
b. Propeller Shaft Removal. Make certain arrows are visible
(fig. 160); if not, punch mark both members so they may be reas-
sembled in their original positions. Any shaft may be removed by
disconnecting both ends as directed in step (1) or (2) below, which-
ever one may apply.
( 1) U-BoLT TYPE. Remove four nuts and lock washers from U-
bolts and remove U-bolts [(GM-2066840) G85-32-00500]. Shorten
shaft by telescoping at slip joint and wrap tape around bearings and
journal to prevent bearings dropping off.
•326•
TM 9-801
176-177
PROPELLER SHAFTS, UNIVERSAL JOINTS, AND PILLOW BLOCK
ARROWS
SLIP JOINT
UNIVERSAL JOINT DUST CAP
RA PD 64497
Figure 160—Universal Joint Alinemenl Marks
(2) STRAIGHT BOLT TYPE. Remove four nuts and lock washers
from bolts attaching universal joint flange to transmission or trans-
fer case. Remove bolts from companion flange on front or rear of
transfer case [front— (GM-093420) G501-01-24271; rear—(GM-
082069) G501-01-242 70]. Separate flanges by telescoping shaft at
slip joint.
c. Propeller Shaft Installation. Make sure that arrow (or
marks made at removal) are alined (fig. 160). Position shaft with
slip joint at input end and connect both ends as directed in step (1)
or (2) below, whichever one may apply.
(1) U-BOLT TYPE. Remove tape or wrapping from bearings and
journal. Make sure that bearings and journal are clean and the bear-
ing needles are in place in bearings. Raise shaft into position and seat
bearings in place in yoke. Install U-bolts around bearings and through
yoke, install nuts and lock washers, and tighten snugly.
(2) STRAIGHT BOLT TYPE. Aline flanges and install four straight
bolts. Install nuts and lock washers on bolts and tighten firmly.
177. PILLOW BLOCK.
a. Check Adjustment. Disconnect propeller shafts at each end
of pillow block (par. 176 b (1)), and check pillow block shaft for
end play. Shaft should spin freely in bearings and should not have
more than a barely perceptible amount of end play. If end play is
excessive, replace pillow block assembly.
b. Removal (fig. 161). NOTE: // replacement unit is not
equipped with flanges, the flanges must be removed from the old
unit and installed on the replacement unit.
(1) REMOVE PILLOW BLOCK. Disconnect propeller shafts at
each end of pillow block (par. 176 b (1)). Tie propeller shafts up
to prevent dirt from getting into bearings. Remove four cap screws
and lock washers attaching pillow block to bracket on axle hous-

ing and lift pillow block from axle.

(2) REMOVE FLANGES (!F NECESSARY). Remove cotter pin,
flange retaining nut, and washer from each end of pillow block shaft
Tap flanges off ends of shaft, using a soft metal hammer.
•327•
TM 9-801
177
TRUCK,
-TON, 6x6
SPLIT TYPE
A PILLOW BLOCK ASSEMBLY
B OIL LEVEL PLUG
C VENT CAP ASSEMBLY
BANJO TYPE
0 CAP SCREWS
E UNIVERSAL JOINT
F U-BOLT
Figure 161 —Pillow Block Installation
RA PD 332924
(1) LUBRICATION FITTING (LATE MODELS). Pillow block assem-
blies on late model vehicles include a pressure fitting in place of the
level plug (fig. 161). Whenever pillow block is removed for service
purposes, the lubrication fitting can be installed in place of the level
plug. Remove the filler plug and breather assembly, and level plug,
then turn pillow block upside down, draining all lubricant. Turn shaft
several times by hand and allow enough time for complete drainage.
Reinstall filler plug and breather assembly in same location. Install
90 degree lubrication fitting in level plug location with end of fitting
pointing toward front of vehicle and down approximately 15 degrees
below horizontal position. Lubricate pillow block assembly with
chassis grease as indicated in Section VIII.
(2) INSTALL FLANGES (!F NECESSARY). Loosen front and rear
end cover cap-screw. Seal surface on flange hub must be smooth and
polished, and free of scores and nicks. Place key in keyway at each
end of shaft. Install propeller shaft flange at each end of shaft, care-
fully sliding hub of flange through cover oil seal. Flange with dust
shield must be installed on front end of shaft. Be certain outer por-
tion of seal is not damaged or doubled back while installing the
flange. Check depth of space between end of key and nut face of
flange. If less than %2-inch deep, drive key in with punch to obtain
this dimension. Apply aviation type permatex to end of new cork
seal and force seal into keyway against end of key. Install tongued
washer and flange nut on each end of shaft, tighten solidly, and lock
in place with new cotter pin. With flange nuts tightened, the com-
pressed cork will effectively seal the keyway. Tighten front and rear
cover cap screws.
•328•
TM 9-801
177-178
PROPELLER SHAFTS, UNIVERSAL JOINTS, AND PILLOW BLOCK
(3) INSTALL PILLOW BLOCK (fig. 161). Position pillow block at
support bracket on axle housing, with dust slinger on pillow block
toward front of vehicle. Install four bracket to pillow block cap
screws and lock washers and tighten firmly. Connect propeller shafts
at each end of pillow block (par 176 c (1) ). Lubricate pillow block
and universal joints as instructed in Section VIII.
Section XXXIII
SERVICE BRAKE SYSTEM
178." DESCRIPTION.
a. Description. The vacuum hydraulic operated service or foot
brake system consists of an internal expanding type brake assembly
comprising two brake shoe assemblies at each front wheel and at
each inner wheel of the dual rear wheels. The system is comprised
primarily of a manually operated foot pedal, interconnected to a
hydraulic master cylinder to build up the initial hydraulic pressure;
a Hydrovac power unit with related parts to increase initial hy-
draulic pressure as required; interconnecting hydraulic lines and
fittings; and a hydraulic wheel cylinder to operate the mechanical
brake shoe assembly at each wheel (fig. 162).
b. Operation. The operation of service brakes depends upon
two elements: hydraulic fluid pressure and vacuum. The arrange-
ment and mechanism of the component parts of system are such that
both the hydraulic and vacuum principals must operate in conjunc-
tion with each other to finally apply brakes efficiently. The service
brakes are operated simultaneously at all wheels by the manual
application of the foot brake pedal.
(a) Application. The manually operated pedal, interconnected
to the piston rod of the hydraulic master cylinder, forces the brake
fluid under pressure from the master cylinder through pipe lines
into the mechanism of Hydrovac unit, then into each wheel cylinder.
When this initial pressure reaches a predetermined amount, the
pressure operates the relay valve mechanism in the Hydrovac unit.
The mechanism then cuts off the vacuum and admits atmospheric
pressure to one side of the pistons in the power cylinder. Action of
the pistons, interconnected to slave cylinder piston, then increases
the hydraulic pressure to all wheel cylinders.

(b) Release. Upon release of the foot pressure at the brake

pedal, initial line pressure is relieved. This decreased pressure per-
mits the relay valve mechanism in the Hydrovac unit to close off
the atmospheric pressure and open the vacuum port into the cyl-
inders. Engine manifold vacuum creates vacuum on both sides of
the Hydrovac pistons, thus permitting the spring to return the
•329•
L
0
n
n
M
178
•330•
TM 9-801

TM 9-801
178-179
pistons to the released or off position. The brake shoe return springs
can then return the brake shoes and the wheel cylinders into the
released position, forcing the fluid from the wheel cylinders through
the lines and the Hydrovac back into the hydraulic master cylinder
reservoir.
179. SYSTEM TESTS.
a. General. There are several tests which may be applied to the
service brake system, results of which will indicate the condition
of the various units in the system. Generally, the performance
of the brakes, together with a few simple tests, will indicate the con-
dition of the power unit; however, in order to correctly diagnose
specific deficiencies, vacuum and pressure gages should be used as
indicated in the following subparagraphs.
b. System Performance Tests. The following tests should be
made at regular intervals to check the general performance of the
brakes:
(1) WITH ENGINE RUNNING.
(a) Start the engine and allow it to idle for about 10 seconds.
(b) Depress brake pedal with about as much foot pressure as
required for normal stopping. Note the approximate position of the
pedal pad and the foot pressure required to hold it in this position.
Measure distance between pedal pad and toe board for further check
as described in (2) below.
(c) Remove foot from pedal and turn off ignition switch.
(2 ) WITH ENGINE STOPPED.
(a) Depress brake pedal five times to approximately the same
position as noted in step (1) (b) above.
(b) If the pressure required to push the pedal to this position
during the fifth application is noticeably greater than in step (1) (b)
above, the vacuum system is operating satisfactorily. If pressure is
not greater, further tests should be made.
(c) NOTE: Generally, an increase in required foot pressure will
be noted upon each of the five applications as compared to the ap-
plication immediately preceding it. This is because the system vac-
uum is being depleted during each application while the engine is
not running.
(d) After the vacuum in the system has been completely de-
pleted, depress brake pedal and hold foot pressure. If the pedal
gradually "falls away" under foot pressure, the hydraulic brake
system is leaking and an immediate check and correction must be
made.
(e) If the brake pedal travels to within two inches of the floor
board, there is not enough brake pedal reserve and a brake shoe
adjustment is required.
(3) ROAD TEST. Road test the vehicle by making a brake ap-
plication at about 20 miles per hour, noting whether the vehicle stops
evenly and quickly.
(a) If the brake pedal has a spongy feel when the brakes are
applied, there is air in the hydraulic system. Bleed the system.
•331*
TM 9-801
179
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
RA PD 332992
Figure 163—Hydrovac Vacuum Leak Tests
(b) If the brakes operate satisfactorily when tested at tempera-
ture above freezing, but are ineffective and do not release properly
at temperatures below freezing, report this condition to higher
authority, as water may have entered the vacuum system where it
may later cause more serious difficulty.
c. Vacuum Tests (fig. 163). Vacuum test must be made with
two vacuum gages (41-G-500). Gage, which will be termed as No. 1,
must be installed in the Hydrovac center plate center elbow. It is
necessary to remove the pipe plug from this elbow for the installa-
tion. Gage, which will be termed as ./Vo. 2, must be installed in place
of the pipe plug at the back end of the rear cylinder shell.
(1) VACUUM TEST ( BRAKES RELEASED ).
(a) Start the engine and leave the brake pedal in released posi-
tion. Note vacuum reading on both vacuum gages. They should
register engine manifold vacuum (at least 14 in.), and should be
exactly alike. If the reading is below manifold vacuum, a leak exists
in the Hydrovac unit or in the lines from the intake manifold vacuum
check valve.
(b) Stop the engine and remove the gage from the Hydrovac
center plate elbow (No. 1) and reinstall the plug. Remove the vac-
uum line from the center plate elbow next to frame side rail, and
connect the gage to the vacuum line. Start the engine and note the
reading on the gage. If the gage does not register manifold vacuum
(at least 14 in.), the leak is in the manifold vacuum check valve or
lines. Check the lines from the Hydrovac unit to the manifold check
valve for loose connections, etc. If the correction of loose connections
in the lines does not remedy the leak, remove the pipe connection
from the vacuum check valve at the valve. Install gage and start
engine. Allow the engine to idle about 10 seconds, then turn off the
•332•
TM 9-801
179
ignition switch. If the gage reading decreases more than one inch of
vacuum in 15 seconds, replace the check valve.
(c) After repairing or replacing manifold check valve or vacuum
lines, reinstall gage No. 1 in the Hydrovac center plate center elbow.
Reconnect the vacuum line to the elbow (next to side rail) and
repeat test as described in step (a) above.
(d) If gages still register less than manifold vacuum, the leak
exists in the Hydrovac unit, which must be replaced (par. 188).
(2) VACUUM TEST (BRAKES APPLIED).
(a) If, with the engine running and brake pedal released, both
gages register manifold vacuum, depress the brake pedal and hold
in the applied position. Note the reading of both gages. Gage No. 1
(on Hydrovac center plate elbow) should continue to register mani-
fold vacuum, while gage No. 2 (at back end of rear cylinder shell)
should drop to zero or, if a combination vacuum and pressure gage
is used, to atmospheric pressure.
(b) If gage Wo. 1 (on Hydrovac center plate elbow) does not
continue to register manifold vacuum, replace the Hydrovac unit
(par. 188).
d. Hydraulic Pressure Test. These tests may be made to deter-
mine whether or not the correct hydraulic pressure is attained. The
tests require the use of a hydraulic pressure gage registering at least
1200 pounds, in addition to a vacuum gage (41-G-500). Pressure
gage must .be installed in bleeder hole of a wheel cylinder. If a pres-
sure gage is not available, vacuum leakage tests as described in
subparagraphs c (1) and (2) above will generally indicate which
unit, Hydrovac or check valve, is defective.
(1) If proper readings of manifold vacuum and atmospheric
pressure are registered on gages No. 1 and 2, with the brake pedal
depressed (subpar. c (2) above), the following test should be per-
formed to check for hydraulic fluid leaks or deficient Hydrovac unit.
(2) Stop the engine and depress the brake pedal several times
to deplete the vacuum in the Hydrovac, then depress the brake pedal
again and note the reading on the hydraulic pressure gage at the
wheel cylinder.
(3) Start the engine and depress the brake pedal again, noting
pressure gage reading. If the reading is not double the pressure read-
ing with the engine stopped, a leak in the hydraulic system is indi-
cated. Hold the pedal in applied position for a few minutes and note
the pressure reading at various intervals. The hydraulic pressure
should not drop quickly and should not drop below the reading
attained at the time of brake application.
(4) A low reading or a drop of hydraulic pressure indicates a
leak either in the Hydrovac slave cylinder, or in the brake lines or
wheel cylinders.
(5) Inspect each brake line and wheel cylinder separately and
replace all worn or damaged parts. Repeat the tests described in
steps (2) and (3) above. If the hydraulic pressure is still too low
or drops too rapidly, a leak at the Hydrovac slave cylinder is indi-
cated Replace Hydrovac unit (par. 188).
.333.'
TM 9-801
180
TRUCK, 2 '/j -TON, 6x6
180. BLEEDING SYSTEM. ,
a. The hydraulic lines must be bled to expel the air which may
have entered the lines in the event any of the hydraulic lines con-
nections have been broken or disconnected. The need of bleeding
the system is generally indicated by a springy, spongy pedal action.
b. Equipment. System can be bled manually or with a pressure
tank. When the manual system is used, two persons are needed to
accomplish the operations; one to maintain a constant supply of
fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and to pump the brake pedal,
the other to accomplish bleeding operations at the Hydrovac unit
and the wheel cylinders. If a conventional pressure tank is used,
the tank may be connected to the hydraulic master cylinder, main-
taining a constant supply of fluid in the reservoir, and sufficient air
pressure to force the fluid through the lines to expel air at the
bleeding points.
(1) CONNECT PRESSURE TANK TO MASTER CYLINDER. If pres-
sure tank is used, connect tank hose with proper size adapter to the
master cylinder filler cap aperture. The pressure tank should contain
NO. 2
HYDROVAC BLEEDING POINTS AND SEQUENCE
BLEEDING A WHEEL CYLINDER
Figure 164—Brake System Bleeding Points
RA PD 332862
•334*
TM 9-801
180-181
between 10-20 pounds air pressure and sufficient fluid to maintain
constant fluid level in the master cylinder.
(2) BLEED HYDROVAC. The Hydrovac unit must be bled before
bleeding the wheel cylinders and must be bled in correct sequence.
Refer to figure 164 and bleed the Hydrovac at the bleeding screws
in the sequence marked 1 and 2. It is not necessary to bleed the screw
located on top of the slave cylinder directly above the inlet line
connection. Remove bleeder cap screw and washer at each bleeder
screw. Install bleeder tube (41-T-4170) in end of No. 1 bleeder
screw. Place opposite end of bleeder tube in a suitable container
with sufficient fluid to cover end of tube. While pumping brake pedal
or with the use of air pressure in pressure tank, open bleeder screw
three-quarters of a turn counterclockwise and observe flow of fluid
at end of bleeder hose. Close bleeder screw firmly as soon as air
bubbles stop and fluid comes out of tube in a solid stream. Repeat
this operation on bleeder screw No. 2, making certain that hydraulic
master cylinder has been replenished with fluid if manual system
is used.
(3) BLEED WHEEL CYLINDER. Remove cap screw from wheel
cylinder at backing plate and connect bleeder hose. Place the other
end in a container with sufficient fluid to cover end of hose. While
pumping with pedal or using pressure tank, open bleeder valve by
turning three-quarters of a turn in counterclockwise direction. Close
bleeder valve tightly as soon as air bubbles stop and fluid comes out
in a solid stream. Repeat these operations on each wheel cylinder
at the other brakes, replenishing fluid in hydraulic cylinder before
each wheel cylinder is bled if using the manual system.
181. BRAKE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENTS FOR NORMAL
WEAR.
a. General. Brake system adjustments necessary to compensate
for normal wear are commonly confined to adjustments at the brake
shoes. Other system adjustments such as brake pedal to toe board
clearance and hydraulic master cylinder linkage adjustment are, as
a general rule, not required to compensate for normal wear. These
linkage adjustments are only necessary if linkage has been replaced
or distorted as the result of collision, etc.

b. Front Brake Shoe Adjustment (fig. 165). Always check hub

bearing adjustment (par. 199). A satisfactory brake adjustment
cannot be obtained unless the hub bearings are in proper adjustment.
(1) ON BANJO TYPE AXLES ONLY. Remove two adjusting hole
covers on backing plate, one at each side of hydraulic flexible line
connection. Insert screw driver through hole in plate until screw
driver engages notches on wheel cylinder adjusting cap (fig. 165).
Turn adjusting cap in clockwise direction (when looking at end of
cylinder) until there is a slight drag as wheel is turned by hand.
Back off adjusting cap four notches to provide running clearance
between brake lining and brake drum. Repeat this procedure at
rearward shoe. Make adjustment at both front wheels, and make
•335*
TM 9-801
181
TRUCK, 2 V2-TON, 6x6
certain that brake shoe adjustments on both wheels are as uniform
as possible
(2) ON SPLIT TYPE AXLES ONLY. Adjust by turning adjusting
cam on forward shoe in direction as indicated by arrows in figure
165 until brake drags slightly when wheel is revolved by hand. Back
off adjusting cam just enough to allow wheel to revolve freely.
Repeat this procedure at rearward shoe. Both adjustments at each
wheel should be as uniform as possible. In rare instances, this man-
FRONT BRAKE SHOE ADJUSTMENT (BANJO TYPE AXLE)
FRONT BRAKE SHOE MINOR ADJUSTMENT (SPLIT TYPE AXLE)
RA PD 332987
Figure 165—Front Brake Shoe Adjustment for Normal Wear
•336•
TM 9-801
181-182
RA PD 16043
Figure 166—Rear Brake Shoe Adjustment for Normal Wear
ner of adjustment may not give entirely satisfactory results. In such
instances, a major adjustment must also be made as described in
paragraph 183.
c. Rear Brake Shoe Adjustment. Rear brake shoes are adjust-
ed the same on both split and banjo type axles. Install wrench on
hex head of one adjusting pinion shaft. Turn adjuster in clockwise
direction as indicated by arrows on figure 166 until there is a slight
drag as wheel is revolved by hand. Back off adjuster three-quarters
of a turn, which will provide proper running clearance between brake
lining and brake drum. Repeat the procedure on the opposite ad-
juster. Make certain that all brake shoes on each axle are adjusted
as uniformly as possible.
182. FRONT BRAKE SHOES (WITH BANJO TYPE AXLE).
a. Description (fig. 167). The shoe assemblies are connected to
an anchor plate with articulating links and an anchor pin. Guide
plates, riveted to the anchor plate near the upper ends of the shoes,
hold each shoe in the proper alinement. The upper end of each
shoe rests in slotted adjusting studs threaded into wheel cylinder
caps. On vehicles equipped with demountable brake drums only,
the drum must be removed to gain access to shoe assemblies. The
hub, drum, and bearings must be removed on vehicles equipped
with conventional drums.
b. Shoe Assembly Removal. Jack up front wheel to be serv-
iced. Remove wheel. On vehicles equipped with demountable drums,
remove drum (par. 185). On other vehicles, remove hub, drum, and
bearings (par. 201).
(1) DISCONNECT SHOE LINKAGE (fig. 168). Install wheel cyl-
inder clamp (41-C-1835) over ends of wheel cylinder. Remove re-
turn spring [(GM-2030574) G85-11-02130] with pliers (41-P-
736603 O - 47 - 22 *337'
I
&
182
< CD
ZZZ
•338-
020^0
<cO U O
C vl C UC
TM 9-801
« Q- a f~ tx.
CD U- O. U- _J UL
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
TM 9-801
182
. WHEEL CYLINDER
RETURN SPRING
RA PD 332845
Figure 1 68—Method of Clamping Wheel Cylinder and Removing
Spring (Clamp 41-C-1835 and Pliers 41-P-l579)
1579). Remove anchor pin lock with screw driver, then remove
anchor pin.
(2) REMOVE SHOES. Brake shoes | (GM-3660054) G85-31-
13220] with the links attached, can be removed by swinging them
clear of guides on anchor plate. Remove friction pin lock, pins, and
springs. Remove link pin locks and pins.
c. Brake Shoe Assembly Installation.
(1) INSTALL LINKS TO SHOES. Install brake shoe links to for-
ward and reverse shoes. Links on reverse shoe are wider at anchor
end than at shoe end. Install brake shoe link pin and lock. Install
friction pin, springs, and new lock.
(2) POSITION SHOES. Position forward and reverse shoes be-
tween guide plates on anchor plate assembly. Check fit of shoes in
guides. Shoes should be free without excessive side movement. At-
tach links to anchor plate with anchor pin and pin lock. Attach one
end of return spring to one shoe, then with pliers (41-P-1579), attach
other end to opposite shoe. Remove wheel cylinder clamp.
(3) INSTALL BRAKE DRUM. On vehicles with conventional type
brake drums, install hub, drums, and bearings, then adjust the wheel
bearings (par. 199). On vehicles equipped with demountable drums,
install drums as described in paragraph 185.
(4) ADJUST. Install wheel, then adjust brake shoes as described
in paragraph 181.
•339•
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182
•340•
TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6

TM 9-801
183
183. FRONT BRAKE SHOES (WITH SPLIT TYPE
AXLE).
a. Description (fig. 169). The brake shoes are anchored to the
backing plate by adjustable eccentric pins at lower ends of the
shoes. Adjusting cams, located near the upper ends of the shoes, bear
against the brake shoes. Guide pins, two in each shoe, are riveted to
the backing plate. Special washers used over pins are used on each
side of the shoes and are held in place with C-washers which fit into
the grooves at outer ends of the guide pins. C-washers are also used
to hold the brake shoes in place on anchor pins. On vehicles equipped
with split type axles, demountable brake drums are used.
b. Shoe Assembly Removal. Jack up front wheel to be serv-
iced. Remove wheel, then remove demountable drum (par. 185).
(1) DISCONNECT SHOE LINKAGE. Install clamp (41-C-1835)
over ends of wheel cylinder. Remove C-washers from anchor pins,
using a %-inch end wrench and hammer in manner shown in figure
170. It is not necessary to remove the anchor pins. With pliers, re-
move guide pin lock on both shoes (fig. 171).
(2) REMOVE SHOES. With pliers (41-P-1579), remove return
spring [(GM-2030574) G85-11-021301- Pull each shoe away from
wheel cylinder yoke, then pull shoes [(GM-2030568) G508-03-
84922 forward and (GM-2030569) G508-03-84923 reverse] straight
out to remove from anchor pins at bottom and guide pins midway
on shoes.
c. Shoe Assembly Installation.
(1) POSITION BRAKE SHOES. Position brake shoes over anchor
pins and guide pins. Install a flat washer over each guide pin before
installing brake shoes. Make certain that wheel cylinder yokes are
positioned in upper end of brake shoes properly.
(2) INSTALL BRAKE SHOE RETURN SPRING. Install one end of
REMOVING INSTALLING
RA PD 64539
Figure 170—Removal and Installation of Anchor Pin Washers
(Front Split Type Axle)
•341•
TM
9-801
183
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
INSTALLING
CLAMPING
RA PD 332914
Figure 171 —Removing, Installing, and Clamping Guide
Pin Locks (Front Split Type Axle)
spring in brake shoe, then with pliers (41-P-1579), install other end
of spring in other brake shoe. After return spring is installed, remove
wheel cylinder clamp (41-C-1835) from wheel cylinder.
(3) INSTALL C-WASHERS IN GUIDE AND ANCHOR PINS. Install
flat washers over guide pins, then install C-washers on guide pins
(fig. 171), making certain that C-washers seat solidly and are locked
securely. Install C-washers on anchor pins. Tap washer into place
firmly, then lock C-washers securely (fig. 171). Turn anchor pins
until marks on pins are toward each other (fig. 172). Install drum
(par. 185) and wheel.
d. Major Shoe Adjustment.
(1) ADJUST FORWARD SHOE LINING CLEARANCE AT BOTTOM
(fig. 172). Remove inspection cover on front of brake drum. Revolve
•342•
TM 9-801
183
ANCHOR PIN POSITION
LINING CLEARANCE CHECK
MAJOR ADJUSTMENT
RA PD 332852
Figure 172—Position of Anchor Pin and Major Adjustment
drum until opening is about IVa inches from end of forward brake
shoe. Insert 0.010 inch feeler gage between drum and bottom or
heel of shoe. Back off lock nut on anchor pin, using two wrenches,
one on lock nut and the other on anchor pin. Turn anchor pin in di-
rection shown in figure 172 until clearance of 0.010 inch is obtained.
(2) ADJUST FORWARD SHOE LINING CLEARANCE AT TOP. Re-
volve drum until opening is about 1 Vz inches from end of lining at
top or toe of shoe. Insert 0.020 inch feeler gage and turn anchor pin
until that clearance is obtained. Recheck lower clearance.
(3) ADJUST LINING CLEARANCE AT REVERSE SHOES. Repeat
steps (1) and (2) above on reverse shoe. Make certain that adjust-
ments at both shoes are approximately the same. Tighten anchor
pin lock nuts and check all clearances again.
(4) ADJUST SHOES AT CAM. Adjust shoes at cams as described
in paragraph 181. Install wheel. Install inspection cover on brake
drum.
•343•
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344
183
TM 9-801

TM 9-801
184
184. REAR BRAKE SHOES.
a. Description (fig. 173). The rear brake shoe assemblies on
both split and banjo type axles are two-shoe type and are similar in
construction. The shoes are anchored to the anchor plate through
articulating links and two anchor pins located at the bottom of the
anchor plate. The guide plates, riveted to the anchor plates near the
upper ends of the shoes, hold each brake shoe in the proper aline-
ment. The upper end of each brake shoe rests in a slotted adjusting
stud threaded in the end caps of the wheel cylinder. Vehicles with
banjo type axles are equipped with either demountable or conven-
tional (non-demountable) type brake drums, while vehicles with
split type axles are equipped with demountable type drums only.
b. Brake Shoe Assembly Removal.
(1) REMOVE BRAKE DRUM, OR HUB AND DRUM. Remove wheel
On vehicles equipped with demountable type drums, remove drum
(par. 185). On other vehicles, remove hub, drum, and bearings (par.
201).
(2) DISCONNECT SHOE LINKAGE. Install clamp (41-C-1835)
over wheel cylinder. Remove return spring with pliers (41-P-1579).
Remove anchor pin locks (fig. 174), then remove pins. Brake shoes
[ (GM-3660048) G85-31-13240] with links attached, may then be
swung clear of guide plates.
(3) REMOVE LINKS AND FRICTION PINS. Remove link pin lock
and pin from each shoe. Remove friction pin lock, spring, and pin
from each shoe.
c. Brake Shoe Assembly Installation.
(1) INSTALL LINKS ON SHOES. Install links to both shoes by
installing link pin and lock, and friction pin, spring, and lock on
each shoe. Use new locks, if available.
(2) INSTALL SHOES. Position shoes in place at guide plates.
Install anchor pins and locks. Use new locks and make sure that
locks fit in grooves of pins. With pliers (41-P-1579), install return
spring, then remove clamp (41-C-1835).
(3) INSTALL DRUM, OR HUB AND DRUM. If demountable drum
REMOVING INSTALLING
RA PD 64587
Figure 174—Removing and Installing Anchor Pin Locks

•345•
TM 9-801
184-185
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
is used, install as described in paragraph 185. On other vehicles,
install hub, drum, and bearings, then adjust wheel bearings (par.
199).
(4) ADJUST. Adjust brake shoes (par. 181).
185. BRAKE DRUMS.
a. With Banjo Type Axles. Front and rear brake drums on
banjo type axles are either the demountable type or conventional
(non-demountable) type. The demountable type may be removed
from the hub without the necessity of removing the complete hub
and drum assembly. The non-demountable type drum is attached
to the hub with serrated bolts and cannot be replaced until hub,
drum, and bearings are removed.
(1) DRUM REPLACEMENT (NON-DEMOUNTABLE TYPE).
(a) Removal. Position hub assembly so that bolt heads are
accessible. Mark the exact center of bolt head with a center punch,
then with a 7/s-inch drill positioned on mark, drill a hole to approxi-
mate depth shown in figure 175. The hole must be deep enough so
that bolt head is severed from bolt. While drilling bolt head, be cer-
tain that drill is alined correctly. Position a blunt pointed drift pin
in drilled hole, then strike drift pin firmly with a hammer until bolt
is driven out of hub. Perform above operation on balance of bolts,
then remove drum from hub.
(b) Front Drum Installation. Position and aline drum on hub,
then insert wheel bolts through drum and hub. Make certain that
serrations on bolt and in hub are in alinement. Drive or press wheel
bolts firmly in place. Wheel bolts must be a tight press fit.
(c) Rear Drum Installation. Position and aline drum on hub,
then place gasket between inner side of drum and oil deflector. The
small hole in gasket and channel in deflector must be alined with oil
relief hole in brake drum. Insert wheel bolts, with bolt and hub serra-
tions in alinement, through oil deflector, gasket, drum, and hub.
STUD HEAD
STUD DRILLING
RA PD 332754
Figure 1 75—Removal and Installation of Hub Bolts

(Front Shown)
•346•
TM 9-801
185
REMOVING
INSTALLING
RA PD 332901
Figure 1 76—Removing and Installing Demountable Drum
(Banjo Type Axle)
Drive or press wheel bolts firmly in place. Wheel bolts must be a
tight press fit.
(2) DRUM REPLACEMENT (DEMOUNTABLE TYPE) (fig. 176).
Remove three slotted countersunk head screws which attach brake
drum to hub. Apply a few drops of penetrating oil through each hole
in drum so that it might flow around shoulder on hub where brake
drums fit. Allow penetrating oil sufficient time to act, then position a
block of wood in a groove of the drum and drive drum evenly from
shoulder. Reinstall by driving drum into place with a block of wood.
b. With Split Type Axles (fig. 177). Brake drums on vehicles
equipped with split type axles are demountable type. The front
brake drums are attached to the hub with cap screws, while the rear
brake drums are attached to hub with countersunk screws.
(1) FRONT BRAKE DRUM REPLACEMENT. Remove six cap
screws and lock washers which attach drum to hub adapter. Re-
install three of the cap screws in three additional puller screw holes
in drum. Tighten screws alternately and evenly until drum is free.
Install drum so that attaching screw holes match with those on hub
adapter. Tighten cap screws evenly and firmly, using new lock
washers.
(2) REAR BRAKE DRUM REPLACEMENT. Re.move countersunk
head screws which attach drum to hub. Apply a few drops of pene-
trating oil at point where drum contacts pilot shoulder of hub. Place
a soft metal bar between wheel studs and strike bar sharply with
hammer. This must be accomplished all around the hub until drum
is loosened sufficiently to lift off of hub. When installing the drum,
•347•
TM 9-801
185-186
TRUCK, 2V,-TON, 6x6
FRONT REAR
RA PD 332855
Figure 177—Removing and Installing Demountable Drum
(Split Type Axle)
position drum over ends of wheel bolts, then drive drum into place
with a block of wood and hammer. Install the attaching screws and
tighten firmly.
186. BRAKE PEDAL AND LINKAGE.
a. The brake pedal, mounted on a cross shaft with the clutch
pedal, is linked to hydraulic master cylinder cross shaft outer lever
with an adjustable pull rod. The rod can be adjusted at clevis for
pedal to toe board clearance. A return spring at master cylinder end
of rod returns pedal to fully released position after pedal pressure
is released.
b. Pedal and Pull Rod Removal (fig. 178).
(1) DISCONNECT CLUTCH PEDAL LINKAGE. Remove floor and
toe board. Disconnect clutch pedal pull back spring. Loosen check
nut and adjusting nut on clutch pedal adjusting link. Unhook link
from pedal.
(2) DISCONNECT BRAKE PEDAL LINKAGE. At pedal, remove
clevis pin from rod yoke. At master cylinder outer lever, remove
clevis pin from adjustable yoke and withdraw rod. Disconnect pedal
return spring [(GM-369935) G501-03-89794].
(3) REMOVE PEDALS AND BRACKET. Remove three cap screws
which attach pedal bracket to transmission and clutch housing.
Bracket with pedals can then be withdrawn as an assembly.
(4) REMOVE PEDALS. Remove taper pin which attaches collar
to shaft. Collar, clutch pedal, and brake pedal may then be with-
drawn from shaft.
c. Pedal and Pull Rod Installation.
(1) INSTALL PEDALS TO SHAFT AND BRACKET. Install brake
•348•
TM 9-801
186
PEDAL AND LINKAGE INSTALLED
A BRAKE PEDAL
B CLUTCH PEDAL
C PEDAL TO INNER LEVER ROD
D PEDAL BRACKET
E MASTER CYLINDER
F MASTER CYLINDER OUTER LEVER
BRAKE AND CLUTCH PEDALS INSTALLED
G MASTER CYLINDER INNER LEVER
H STOP SCREW
I RETURN SPRING
J COLLAR
K COLLAR PIN
Figure 178—Brake Pedal and Linkage
RA PD 332935
pedal, then clutch pedal on shaft. Place collar over outer end of
shaft and line up pin holes in shaft and collar. Install taper pin.
(2) INSTALL PEDAL AND BRACKET. Install bracket with pedals
on transmission and clutch housing. Use new lock washers and tight-
en cap screws firmly.
(3) CONNECT CLUTCH PEDAL LINKAGE. Connect clutch pedal
link to pedal. Adjust clutch pedal free-travel (par. 150).
(4) ATTACH ROD TO BRAKE PEDAL. Install pedal to master cyl-
inder lever rod at pedal. Use new cotter pin. Do not connect rod to
master cylinder outer lever until master cylinder push rod stop
screw adjustment is checked and adjusted as described in paragraph
187 d.
•349•
TM 9-801
186
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
PEDAL AND MASTER CYLINDER LINKAGE
0 020 INCH CLEARANCE
WITH SPRING
DISCONNECTED
ADJUSTMENT OF STOP SCREW
A PEDAL TO INNER LEVER ROD
B ADJUSTABLE YOKE LOCK NUT
C ADJUSTABLE YOKE
D MASTER CYLINDER OUTER LEVER
E RETURN SPRING
F STOP SCREW
G MASTER CYLINDER INNER LEVER
H PUSH ROD YOKE
I YOKE LOCK NUT
J PUSH ROD NUT
K MASTER CYLINDER
L FILLER CAP
M MASTER CYLINDER BRACKET
N BRACKET TO CYLINDER CAP SCREWS
O STOP SCREW LOCK NUT
P FRAME TO BRACKET BALLS
Q LEVER SHAFT
RA PD 332934
Figure 179—Pedal and Master Cylinder Linkage
(5) CONNECT ROD TO OUTER LEVER. After master cylinder push
rod stop screw is checked, connect rod to outer lever and install re-
turn spring. Check pedal to toe board clearance as described in sub-
paragraph d below.
d. Pedal to Toe Board Clearance (fig. 179). Brake pedal in
released position must have i/2 to 1 inch clearance between pedal
and underside of toe board with pedal in fully released position.
Withdraw clevis pin at outer lever and remove clevis from lever.
•350•
TM 9-801
186-187
Loosen clevis lock nut and turn clevis as necessary to obtain correct
clearance at toe board. Tighten clevis lock nut and reinstall to outer
lever.
187. HYDRAULIC MASTER CYLINDER AND LINKAGE.
a. The hydraulic master cylinder is comprised of a hydraulic
piston and a fluid reservoir. Application of the brake pedal operates
push rod through linkage. When the brake pedal is applied, the
movement of the pedal through the linkage operates the piston in
the master cylinder assembly, displacing hydraulic fluid and build-
ing up pressure in the lines which is eventually utilized at the wheel
cylinders as pressure is further increased by action of the Hydrovac
unit
b. Master Cylinder and Linkage Removal (fig. 179).
(1) DISCONNECT BRAKE PEDAL LINKAGE. Remove floor boards.
Disconnect brake pedal return spring. Remove pedal to outer lever
rod from outer lever.
(2) DISCONNECT HYDRAULIC LINE AND SWITCH WIRES. Discon-
nect hydraulic line at front of master cylinder [fitting gasket (GM-
285059) G67-06-00810]. Remove wires from stop light switch ter-
minals.
(3) REMOVE MASTER CYLINDER WITH BRACKET. Remove four
master cylinder bracket to frame bolts and nuts. Master cylinder
with bracket and levers can then be withdrawn as an assembly.
(4) REMOVE MASTER CYLINDER FROM BRACKET. Remove pin
from clevis connecting cylinder push rod to inner lever. Remove six
master cylinder to bracket cap screws and withdraw master cylinder
(GM-21553233). Levers may be removed by loosening clamp bolts.
Drive shaft from bracket to remove inner lever.
c. Master Cylinder and Linkage Installation (fig. 179).
(1) INSTALL MASTER CYLINDER TO BRACKET. After shaft and
inner and outer levers have been installed in bracket, attach master
cylinder to bracket. Tighten attaching cap screws firmly. Attach push
rod yoke to master cylinder push rod, then attach yoke to lever.
(2) INSTALL MASTER CYLINDER AND BRACKET. Install master
cylinder and bracket to frame side rail. Tighten attaching bolts and
nuts firmly. Install hydraulic line to front of cylinder. Connect stop

light switch wires to switch. Fill cylinder with fluid. Check condition
of filler cap gasket [(GM-080445) G85-31-05820].
(3) ADJUST MASTER CYLINDER PUSH ROD. Loosen yoke to push
rod lock nut . With one wrench on push rod nut, and another on lock
nut, turn push rod until rear of piston touches stop plate in end of
master cylinder. Turn push rod one additional turn (until it is loose
in piston) and tighten lock nut . Piston is fully released when rear of
piston contacts stop plate at rear of master cylinder barrel. If piston
is not allowed to return to a fully released position, piston cup will
cover by-pass hole in master cylinder, thereby preventing fluid
entering master cylinder barrel on return stroke.
•351•
TM 9-801
187
AIR CLEANER
RELAY VALVE
VIEW A
VIEW B
VIEW C
RA PD 333015
Figure 180—Hydro vac Installed (Oi l Wetted Type
Cleaner Shown)
(4) IMPORTANT. Before connecting brake pedal push rod and
return spring to outer lever, stop screw at rear of master cylinder
must be adjusted as described in subparagraph d below.
(5) CONNECT LINKAGE TO OUTER LEVER. After stop screw ad-
justment has been made, connect pedal pull rod and spring to outer
lever. Check and adjust pedal to toe board clearance (par. 186 d ).
d. Master Cylinder Push Rod Stop Screw Adjustment. After
master cylinder push rod is adjusted as described in subparagraph c
(3) above, measure clearance between inner lever and stop screw
(fig. 179). If pedal is connected to outer lever, the return spring
•352•
TM 9-801
187-188
must be disconnected before this clearance check is made. Adjust
the stop screw to permit 0.020 inch clearance between screw and
inner lever.
(1) IMPORTANT. If this clearance is excessive, the master cyl-
inder piston will strike stop in cylinder too sharply. If clearance is
less than 0.020 inch, the piston will not clear fluid by-pass in cyl-
inder when brakes are released. Do not check or adjust stop screw
with return spring connected. Always check this clearance before
making pedal to toe board clearance adjustment.
188. HYDROVAC ASSEMBLY.
a. Description (fig. 180). The Hydrovac assembly, located on
the inside of the right-hand frame side rail behind the transfer case,
consists of a hydraulic slave cylinder, a vacuum suspended power
cylinder, and a hydraulic relay valve, all assembled as one complete
unit. The Hydrovac unit is so constructed that in case the vacuum
power fails, brakes may be applied by hydraulic system with slightly
more manual effort. An oil wetted type air cleaner on some vehicles
is connected to relay valve and mounted adjacent to Hydrovac unit
(fig. 181). On late vehicles, an oil bath air cleaner is mounted on
engine side of dash and connected to Hydrovac with tubing (fig.
182).
b. Cleaning Hydrovac Cleaner.
(1) OIL WETTED TYPE (fig. 181).
(a) Remove Air Cleaner Shield. Remove two nuts and lock
washers attaching shield to Hydrovac bracket, then remove air
cleaner shield.
(b) Disassemble Air Cleaner. Remove cover retaining screw
COVER
SCREEN V
INSTALLED CROSS SECTION
RA PD 332889
Figure 181 —OH Wetted Type Cleaner
736603 O - 47 - 23 *353*
TM 9-801
188
TRUCK,
-TON, 6x6
and washer and remove air cleaner as an assembly from air cleaner
stem. Remove cover from air cleaner shell, then extract outer screen,
filter ha;r element, and inner screen from shell.
(c) Cleaning. Immerse air cleaner parts in dry-cleaning solvent
to loosen and wash out accumulated dirt. Blow all parts dry with
compressed air after deposits of dirt have been removed. Immerse
curled hair element in light engine oil, withdraw, and allow surplus
to drain off.
(d) Assemble Air Cleaner. Install air cleaner shell over end of
air cleaner stem. Install inner screen (small). Position oil treated
element evenly around stem inside of shell. Install outer (large)
screen with edge of screen toward cover. Install and secure cover
with retaining screws and washer.
(e) Install Air Cleaner Shield. Position shield over studs of Hy-
drovac and attach with two nuts and lock washers.
(2) OIL BATH TYPE—DASH MOUNTED (fig. 182).
(a) Remove Cleaner. Turn body of cleaner to left until body
and element can be withdrawn from bracket.
(b) Clean Element. Slush element in dry-cleaning solvent and
blow dry with compressed air. Dip element into engine oil (refer to
Section VIII, Lubrication).
(c) Clean and Fill Body. Slush body in dry-cleaning solvent
Wipe dry. Fill body to oil mark with engine oil (refer to Section
VIII, Lubrication).
(d) Install Cleaner. Insert element into body. Attach body and
element to bracket by turning it to the right on the threads.
INSTALLED
CROSS SECTION
Figure 182—OH Bath Type Cleaner
RA PD 332886
•354-
TM 9-801
188
c. Hydrovac Assembly Removal. NOTE: Due to changes in ve-
hicle design, different conditions will be encountered when removing
(or installing) the Hydrovac. Difference in mountings are shown in
figure 180, and will be noted in text as necessary.
(1) DISCONNECT HYDRAULIC LINES. Disconnect hydraulic out-
let line at front end of slave cylinder, and disconnect hydraulic inlet
line at bottom rear of slave cylinder.
(2) DISCONNECT AIR CLEANER TUBE. Disconnect air cleaner
tube at bottom of relay valve. Remove bolt attaching vacuum line
clip to frame crossmember.
(3) REMOVE HYDROVAC. This procedure depends upon the type
of mounting used, and upon the location of the air cleaner. Removal
for each mounting shown in figure 180 will be covered separately.
(a) View A (fig. 180). Remove two nuts and lock washers at-
taching Hydrovac to front support bracket. Remove two nuts and
lock washers attaching Hydrovac and air cleaner shield to rear sup-
port bracket. Remove air cleaner shield, then remove air cleaner
from air cleaner stem. Remove nuts and lock washers from two bolts
attaching Hydrovac rear mounting bracket to frame side rail, and
remove bolts. Move Hydrovac back and lower onto propeller shaft.
Loosen clamp attaching vacuum line hose (GM-2156846) to center
plate elbow, remove line from elbow, then remove Hydrovac and
rear support bracket from under vehicle. Remove rear support
bracket and air cleaner tube assembly from Hydrovac cylinder
studs.
(b) View B (fig. 180). This procedure is the same as step (a)
above except that operations pertaining to Hydrovac air cleaner
and tube are omitted.
(c) View C (fig. 180). Remove two nuts and lock washers at-
taching Hydrovac to front support bracket. Remove two nuts and
lock washers attaching Hydrovac to rear support bracket. Loosen to
limit of threads, but do not remove, bolts attaching front support
bracket to frame side rail. Loosen to limit of threads, but do not re-
move, bolts attaching rear support bracket to frame side rail re-
inforcement. Push Hydrovac forward as far as possible, then pry
back on rear support bracket until bracket clears ends of studs.

Move Hydrovac back until studs clear front support bracket and
lower assemby onto propeller shaft. NOTE: In the event the brack-
ets will not spread far enough to clear the studs, the extreme ends of
the studs may be cut off. Loosen clamp attaching vacuum line to
center plate elbow, remove line from elbow, then remove Hydrovac
from under vehicle.
d. Hydrovac Assembly Installation.
(1) INSTALL HYDROVAC. This procedure depends upon the type
of mounting used, and upon the location of the air cleaner. Installa-
tion for each mounting shown in figure 180 will be covered
separately.
(a) View A (fig. 180). Lift Hydrovac up onto propeller shaft
and connect vacuum line to center plate elbow. Tighten clamp firmly.
Place rear support bracket and air cleaner tube on cylinder studs,
•355•
TM 9-801
188-189
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
and position the assembly at the frame side rail, with the forward
ends of the cylinder studs through front support bracket. Install and
tighten two bolts, lock washers, and nuts attaching rear support
bracket to frame side rail. Install nuts and lock washers on front
ends of cylinder studs and tighten firmly. Install air cleaner on air
cleaner stem. Position air cleaner shield on cylinder studs, install
nuts and lock washers, and tighten firmly.
(b) View B (fig. 180). This procedure is the same as step (a)
above except that operations pertaining to the air cleaner and tube
are omitted.
(c) View C (fig. 180). Lift Hydrovac up onto propeller shaft
and connect vacuum line to center plate elbow, tightening clamp
firmly. Position Hydrovac with front end of studs through front sup-
port bracket, then pry back on rear support bracket until rear end
of studs will enter holes in rear bracket . Tighten nuts on front and
rear support brackets, then install and tighten nuts and lock washers
on studs attaching Hydrovac to support brackets at both ends.
(2) CONNECT AIR CLEANER TUBE. Connect air cleaner tube to
bottom of relay valve and tighten clamp firmly. Install bolt, lock
washer, and nut attaching vacuum line clip to frame crossmember.
(3) CONNECT HYDRAULIC LINES. Connect hydraulic outlet line
to front of slave cylinder and connect inlet line to bottom rear of
slave cylinder. Tighten connections firmly.
(4) LUBRICATE HYDROVAC AND BLEED SYSTEM. Lubricate Hy-
drovac as directed in Section VIII, and bleed entire brake system
(par. 180).
189. WHEEL CYLINDERS.
a. One wheel cylinder is used at each wheel to transmit the
hydraulic pressure energy in the hydraulic lines to the brake shoes.
The hydraulic pressure forces the wheel cylinder pistons apart and
outward. The brake shoes, interconnected with the wheel cylinder
assembly, are also forced outward and against the drum, thus apply-
ing the brakes.
b. Removal. On vehicles equipped with demountable drums, it
is only necessary to remove drum (par. 185) to gain access to wheel
cylinders. On other vehicles, remove hub, drum, and bearings. If front

cylinders are to be replaced, turn off shut-off cock on right-hand

frame side rail
(1) DISCONNECT BRAKE SHOES FROM WHEEL CYLINDER. In-
stall wheel cylinder clamp (41-C-1835) over ends of wheel cylinder.
Remove brake shoe return spring, then swing brake shoes outward
and away from wheel cylinder ends.
(2) REMOVE WHEEL CYLINDER (fig. 183). Remove two back-
ing plate to wheel cylinder cap screws and lock washers. Pull cyl-
inder away from backing plate, then disconnect flexible hose [ (GM-
2196415) front; (GM-2076248) G85-01-01040 rear] connections at
wheel cylinder by turning wheel cylinder, while wrench holds hose
connection nut. Do not twist hose during this operation.
•356•
TM 9-801
189-190
41-C-1835
Figure 183—Removal of Wheel Cylinder
RA PD 307367
c. Installation.
(1) ATTACH WHEEL CYLINDER TO BACKING PLATE. Place clamp
(41-C-1835) over wheel cylinder. Install gasket [split type front
only (GM-285059) G67-06-00810] over end of flexible hose with
hose inserted through backing plate. Connect hose to wheel cylinder.
Hold hose connection nut with wrench to prevent hose twisting, and
turn wheel pylinder onto fitting. Install wheel cylinder [split type
axle front (GM-2030567) G57-01-45860; banjo type front (GM-
5451212) G501-01-45862; rear (GM-5451214) G501-01-45863] to
backing plate with two backing plate to wheel cylinder cap screws
and lock washers. Tighten cap screws securely. Position brake shoes
at wheel cylinder adjusting studs, then install brake shoe return
spring and remove clamp.
(2) INSTALL DRUM, OR HUB, DRUM, AND BEARINGS. Install de-
mountable drum (par. 185) on vehicles so equipped. On other ve-
hicles, install hub, drum, and bearings, then adjust bearings (par.
199).
(3) BLEED BRAKES. After wheel has been installed, open front
brake line shut-off cock and bleed brake system (par. 180).
(4) ADJUST BRAKE SHOES. Adjust brake shoes at wheel which
required cylinder replacement (par. 181).
190. VACUUM CHECK VALVE.
a. (fig. 184). The check valve is installed at the intake manifold
in the vacuum line between the intake manifold and the Hydrovac
unit . The purpose of the check valve is to seal the vacuum in the
•357•
TM 9-801
190-191
VALVE CAP
INSTALLED
CROSS SECTION
Figure 184—Vacuum Check Valve
RA PD 332865
Hydrovac and vacuum lines. Check valve mechanism seals vacuum
in the lines after engine has been stopped, providing sufficient vac-
uum for a complete brake application.
b. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT VACUUM LINE CONNECTION AT VALVE. Dis-
connect tube nut from elbow at bottom of check valve.
(2) REMOVE ELBOW. Remove elbow from bottom of check
valve.
(3) REMOVE CHECK VALVE. Remove check valve from intake
manifold fitting. Valve is threaded onto manifold fitting.
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL CHECK VALVE TO MANIFOLD FITTING. Paint
threads of intake manifold fitting, using anti-seize mica base com-
pound. Install check valve to manifold fitting and tighten securely.
(2) INSTALL ELBOW. Paint male threads of elbow with anti-
seize mica base compound, then install in check valve and tighten
securely in proper alinment for vacuum line installation.
(3) INSTALL VACUUM LINE. Install vacuum line connection on
elbow, and tighten connection. Make certain that all connections are
tightened securely. Check for leaks (par. 179).
191. HYDRAULIC AND VACUUM LINES AND FITTINGS.
a. Hydraulic Lines and Fittings. The hydraulic lines between
hydraulic master cylinder and Hydrovac unit and between Hydro-
vac unit and right- and left-hand frame side rails are metal type and
clipped securely to crossmembers and frame side rails. Flexible tub-
•358•
TM 9-801
191
ing is used between frame side rail connections and each wheel cyl-
inder. These flexible tubings are supportd with coil springs and clips
attached to the frame side rails at rear and to fender skirts at front.
b. Metal Hydraulic Line Replacement. When the metal hy-
draulic lines within the frame side rails are replaced, make sure that
all connections are tightened securely and that all lines are checked
after replacement for leaks. After replacement of all hydraulic lines,
bleed the system (par. 180). Metal hydraulic lines are accessible
as follows:
(1) RIGHT-HAND FRONT TO LEFT-HAND FRONT BRAKE LINE.
Right to left front brake line assembly is accessible along the front
frame crossmember under radiator. It is clipped to the front cross-
member with two clips, bolts, and nuts.
(2) SHUT-OFF COCK TO FRONT BRAKE LINE. Shut-off cock to
right-hand front brake line tee line is clipped to the right-hand
frame side rail and is accessible under the hood and under floor
boards in the cab.
(3) FRONT WHEEL SHUT-OFF COCK (fig. 185). This shut-off
cock is attached to a support on the inside of the right-hand frame
side rail and is accessible under the floor boards of cab.
(4) HYDROVAC TO FRONT SHUT-OFF COCK LINE. Hydrovac to
front shut-off cock line is attached to right-hand frame side rail. This
line is accessible under the right-hand side of cab.
(5) MASTER CYLINDER TO HYDROVAC LINE. The master cylinder
to Hydrovac line assembly extends from master cylinder along left-
hand frame side rail, then along crossmember to left-hand frame side
rail to tee. This line is clipped to crossmember and frame side rail
with four clips, bolts, and nuts.
(6) RIGHT REAR TO LEFT REAR BRAKE LINE. Right to left rear
brake line extends from right-hand tee along frame crossmember,
then to left-hand tee on left-hand frame side rail. This line is clipped
to crossmember with two clips, bolts, and nuts.
(7) INTERMEDIATE RIGHT-HAND BRAKE LINE. This line extends
from right-hand tee to right forward rear axle brake line tee.
A FRAME SIDE RAIL
B SUPPORT BOLT
C BOLT NUT
D LOCK WASHER
E FLAT WASHER
f SHUT-OFF COCK SUPPORT
G HYDRAULIC LINE
H LINE NUT
I SHUT-OFF COCK
Figure 185—Front Wheel Shut-Off Cack
•359•
TM 9-801
191
TRUCK, 2 ya-TON, 6x6
ABC
TEE TO FITTING BOLT
TUBING NUT
HYDRAULIC METAL TUBING
GASKET
TUBE TEE
F FLEXIBLE HOSE
G TOOTHED LOCK WASHER
H FRAME SIDE RAIL
I LOCK NUT
J TUBING NUT
Figure 186—Frame Tee Connection
RA PD 333MO
(8) REAR BRAKE LINES. The right- and left-hand rear brake
lines extend along right and left frame side rails respectively from
the forward rear axle brake line connections to the rearward rear
axle connections. Each one of these lines is clipped to frame with
two clips, bolts, and nuts.
(9) HYDROVAC TEE TO RIGHT-HAND FORWARD REAR AXLE TEE
LINE. Hydrovac tee to right-hand forward rear axle tee line extends
along inside of right-hand frame side rail. This line is held in place
by clips, bolts, and nuts.
c. Flexible Tubing and Connection Replacement. Flexible
brake lines extending from the frame side rails to the wheel cylinders
at each brake assembly on right- and left-hand sides are attached at
the frame side rail through special connections.
(1) TEE CONNECTION (fig. 186). Tee connections on the frame
side rails at the right front wheel, and right- and left-hand forward
rear wheels are of special construction. When the flexible lines be-
tween these tees and wheel cylinders are removed, it is necessary

that tee attaching bolt and lock nut be removed, and hose connection
pulled away from frame side rail. After this has been accomplished,
the hose can be unscrewed from the wheel cylinder. Make certain
•360•
TM 9-801
191-192
HYDRAULIC
METAL TUBING
TUBING NUT
LOCK NUT
FRAME SIDE
RAIL
FLEXIBLE HOSE
TOOTHED
LOCK WASHER
Figure 187—Frame Connection
RA PD 333062
that internal toothed lock washer and new tee gaskets (GM-231343)
are positioned properly at installation.
(2) FRAME SIDE RAIL CONNECTIONS (fig. 187). The frame side
rail connections at left and right rearward rear axle wheels, and left
front wheels are special type. When removing the flexible lines with
this type connection from wheel cylinder, it is necessary that the lock
nut be removed. The flexible hose connection can then be removed
from the frame side rail. After it is removed from the frame side
rail, the flexible line can be removed from the wheel cylinder. When
installing, make certain that a new internal toothed lock washer is
used and connection is tightened securely.
d. Tube Repair. Hydraulic tubing may be cut and flared with
standard flaring equipment
Section XXXIV
HAND BRAKE SYSTEM
192. DESCRIPTION.
a. General. Manually operated hand brake lever at right of
driver is connected by a rod and levers to an external contracting type
brake band, mounted at rear of transfer case. Brake band assembly
•361*
TM 9-801
192-194
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
is anchored to the transfer case by supports integral with rear bearing
cap. Brake drum is bolted between transfer case propeller shaft com-
panion flange and universal joint flange yoke.
b. Operation (fig. 188). As hand brake lever is pulled back,
brake rod is pulled forward, applying pressure to cam levers and
adjusting bolt at brake band. Movement of cam levers and adjusting
bolt draws ends of shoe toward each other, bringing lining into con-
tact with drum. As hand brake lever is moved forward, brake rod
moves to rear, transmitting movement to cam levers and adjusting
bolt. Ends of band are forced apart by release springs to restore
operating clearance between lining and drum.
193. ADJUSTMENT ON VEHICLE.
a. Adjustment Procedure (fig. 189). Adjust when hand brake
lever reserve travel is less than one-half of the ratchet range. Opera-
tions must be performed in sequence as follows:
(1) DISCONNECT BRAKE ROD (fig. 189). Block wheel to prevent
vehicle moving. Release brake by pushing hand brake lever forward
as far as possible. Remove cotter pin and clevis pin attaching brake
rod end to cam levers.
(2) ADJUST LINING AT ANCHOR (fig. 189). Remove lock wire at
anchor screw slot. Adjust anchor screw to obtain a clearance of
0.010-0.015 inch between lining and drum at anchor. Insert lock
wire through anchor bracket and slot in anchor screw, and twist
end of wire to lock screw in adjusted position.
(3) ADJUST LINING AT BOTTOM (fig. 189). Loosen lock nut on
locating screw. Hold screw with screw driver to prevent screw turning
while adjusting nut is turned to obtain clearance of 0.020 inch between
drum and lining. Tighten lock nut firmly.
(4) ADJUST LINING AT TOP (fig. 189). Loosen lock nut at lower end
of adjusting bolt. Turn adjusting nut to obtain a clearance of 0.020
inch between lining and drum. Tighten lock nut firmly.
(5) ADJUST BRAKE ROD (fig. 189). Loosen brake rod end lock
nut. Turn rod end as necessary to aline hole in end with holes in
cam levers. Connect rod end to levers with clevis pin and secure with
cotter pin. Tighten rod end lock nut firmly, then check hand brake
lever for varying degrees of application. Remove blocks from wheels.

194. BRAKE DRUM.

a. Removal.
(1) DISCONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT. Block wheel to keep vehicle
from moving. Push hand brake lever forward to fully released posi-
tion. Remove the four nuts and lock washers from propeller shaft
flange bolts at brake drum, and push bolts through drum. Telescope
propeller shaft slip joint and swing shaft out of the way.
(2) LOOSEN BRAKE BAND. Remove lock wire from anchor screw,
then remove anchor screw. Remove lock nut and adjusting nut from
locating screw, then remove locating screw. Remove lock nut, adjust-
ing nut, washers, and compression spring from adjusting bolt.
•362•
194
•363*
TM 9-801
HAND BRAKE SYSTEM

TM 9-801
194
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
ANCHOR ADJUSTMENT
ANCHOR SCREW
FEELER GAGE
BOTTOM ADJUSTMENT
FEELER GAGE
LOCATING SCREW
TOP ADJUSTMENT
ADJUSTING BCHT
ADJUSTING NUT
RA PD 332971
Figure 189—Hand Brake Band Adjustment
(3) REMOVE BRAKE DRUM. Pull brake band from anchor and
swing band and drum to right, pivoting band on adjusting bolt.
Use wood block and hammer to drive drum off transfer case com-
panion flange if necessary. Remove drum from band. Whenever
brake drum is removed, always examine condition of brake lining;
replace band if lining is glazed, burnt, or excessively worn.
b. Installation.
(1) CLEAN AND INSPECT. Soak brake drum in dry-cleaning solvent,
and wipe dry with clean cloth. Examine drum; replace with new
•364•
TM 9-801
194-196
HAND BRAKE SYSTEM
drum if cracked or broken, or if deeply scored or grooved.
(2) INSTALL BRAKE DRUM. Position drum in band, then swing
band and drum into position against transfer case companion flange.
Swing brake band into position on anchor then install anchor clip
spring and anchor screw. Install locating screw, then install adjusting
nut and lock nut loosely on locating screw. Install compression spring,
washers, adjusting nut, and lock nut on adjusting bolt.
(3) CONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT. Position propeller shaft flange
to brake drum, position bolts, and install four lock washers and nuts.
Make sure drum is properly alined with mating flanges, then tighten
nuts firmly.
(4) ADJUST BRAKE BAND. Adjust brake band as described in
paragraph 193 a.
195. BRAKE BAND.
a. Removal (fig. 188).
(1) REMOVE BRAKE DRUM. Remove brake drum as described in
paragraph 194 a.
(2) DISCONNECT BRAKE LINKAGE. Remove cotter pin and hand
brake cam lever clevis pin attaching linkage to adjusting bolt.
Swing brake rod and spacer links out of the way.
(3) REMOVE BRAKE BAND. With band disengaged from anchor,
rotate band approximately 45 degrees in a counterclockwise direc-
tion to permit removal of adjusting bolt. Remove adjusting bolt,
release springs, and brake band.
b. Installation (fig. 188).
(1) INSTALL BRAKE BAND. Position brake band around brake
drum. Insert adjusting bolt through upper bracket on band with
hook end up, then install one release spring on bolt. Position assembly
of drum and band on vehicle and insert adjusting bolt through hole
in support. Swing drum and band to left side of vehicle, at same time
rotating band clockwise into position.
(2) INSTALL SPRINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS. Swing brake band into
position on anchor, then install anchor clip spring and anchor screw.
Install bottom release spring on adjusting bolt, position bolt through
bottom bracket, then install compression spring, washers, and nuts
loosely. Install locating screw, then install nuts loosely on screw.

(3) CONNECT BRAKE LINKAGE. Position brake rod cam levers

and spacer links to adjusting bolt. Install clevis pin and secure with
cotter pin.
(4) CONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT. Connect propeller shaft as
described in paragraph 194 b (3).
(5) ADJUST BRAKE BAND. Adjust brake band as described in
paragraph 193 a.
196. BRAKE LINKAGE.
a. Removal (fig. 188).
(1) DISCONNECT BRAKE ROD. Block wheels to prevent movement
of vehicle. Remove floor pan, then remove cotter pin attaching brake
rod to hand brake lever. Remove cotter pin and clevis pin attaching
brake rod end to cam levers, then remove brake rod from vehicle.
•365•
TM 9-801
196-197
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
(2) REMOVE LEVER, SECTOR, AND BRACKET. Remove two cap
screws and washers attaching sector bracket to transmission. Remove
hand brake lever, sector, and sector bracket as an assembly from
vehicle.
(3) DISASSEMBLE LEVER, SECTOR, AND BRACKET. Remove two
nuts and lock washers from bolts attaching sector to sector bracket,
remove two bolts and spacers, then remove sector bracket. Remove
bolt and washer attaching hand brake lever to sector, then separate
sector from lever.
b. Installation (fig. 188).
(1) ASSEMBLE LEVER, SECTOR, AND BRACKET. Assemble sector
and lever with bolt and nut. Install two bolts through lower holes
in sector bracket with flat head bolt in countersunk hole. Install a
spacer on each bolt, then position bracket to sector with bolts inserted
through holes in sector. Install two lock washers rnd nuts, and tighten
nuts firmly.
(2) INSTALL LEVER, SECTOR, AND BRACKET. Position assembly of
lever, sector, and bracket in vehicle. Install two cap screws and lock
washers through upper holes in sector bracket into tapped holes in
transmission, and tighten cap screws firmly.
(3) INSTALL BRAKE ROD. Loosen brake rod end lock nut, then
position brake rod in vehicle. Hook end of rod in brake lever and
install cotter pin. Turn rod end as necessary to aline hole in end with
holes in cam levers. Install clevis pin and secure with cotter pin.
Tighten rod end lock nut firmly. Position and install floor pan, then
remove blocks from wheels.
Section XXXV
WHEELS, TIRES, AND HUBS
197. WHEELS.
a. Front.
(1) ALL VEHICLES EXCEPT CHASSIS SERIAL No. CCKW 353-
236404-2 TO 236520-2 (fig. 190). Each disc-type front wheel is
mounted on six hub studs, and is held in place with inner nuts which
thread directly on studs. Outer nuts, which permit installation of
dual wheels, thread over inner nuts. These wheels are equipped with
lock ring type rim (RH type).

(2) CHASSIS SERIAL No. CCKW-353-236404-2 TO 236520-2

ONLY (fig. 191). On these vehicles, single disc wheel is attached to
hub with six nuts. Wheel is equipped with side ring type rim (CV
type) with bead lock type tire.
b. Rear.
(1) ALL VEHICLES EXCEPT CHASSIS SERIAL No. CCKW-353-
236404-2 TO 236520-2 (fig. 192). Dual rear wheels are mounted on
•366•
TM 9-801
197
A TIRE
B LOCKING RING
C WHEEL
D INNER WHEEL LOCK NUT
E OUTER WHEEL LOCK NUT
Figure 190—Front Wheel Mounting (Standard)
RA PD 64669
six stud hubs. The inner wheel is held in place with sleeve type
square-headed inner nuts, which thread on hub studs. The outer
wheel is mounted over inner nuts and is held in place with hex nuts
which thread on inner nuts. The wheels are equipped with lock ring
type rims (RH type).
(2) CHASSIS SERIAL No. CCKW-353-236404-2 TO 236520-2
ONLY (fig. 191). On these vehicles, each single rear wheel is at-
tached to a wheel spacer by six studs and nuts. Wheel spacer is
attached to hub studs by sleeve-type nuts.
c. Tightening Wheel Nuts. Wheel nuts on right- and left-hand
wheels are not interchangeable. Nuts for right-hand wheels are
marked R, while nuts for left-hand wheels are marked L.
( 1 ) STANDARD WHEELS.
(a) Front Wheels. The inner nuts actually hold wheel in place.
With wrench furnished with vehicle, tighten inner nuts (square-
headed) alternately. Tighten outer (hex) nuts in same manner. Do
not use added extension on wrench.
(b) Rear (fig. 192). Loosen outer nuts (hex), then alternately
tighten inner nuts (square-headed) with wrench and extension fur-
nished with vehicle. Tighten outer nuts (hex) in same manner.
(2) WHEELS ON CHASSIS SERIAL No. CCKW 353-236404-2 TO
236520-2 ONLY. Tighten front wheel nuts alternately with wrench
•367•
TM 9-801
197
A WHEEL NUT
B WHEEL
C WHEEL SPACER
D HUB
E BRAKE DRUM
F WHEEL SPACER NUT
G AXLE SHAFT DRIVE
FLANGE
REAR WHEEL MOUNTING
RA PD 333049
Figure 191 —Front and Rear Wheel Mounting (Bead Lock Type)
•368•
TM 9-801
197
INNER OUTER
TIGHTENING REAR WHEEL
TIRE VALVE POSITION
RA PD 332974
Figure 192—Rear Wheel Mounting (Standard)
and extension furnished with vehicle. On rear wheels, tighten the
square-head spacer nuts first, then the wheel nuts. Do not attempt to
tighten or loosen side ring nuts while tire is inflated. This procedure
is dangerous.
d. Wheel Replacement.
(1) FRONT.
(a) Standard Wheel. Jack up wheel until tire clears ground.
Remove inner nut [R.H.—(GM-279672) G501-03-14847; L.H.—
(GM-279673) G501-03-14848], and outer nut [R.H.—(GM-
279670) G501-03-14845; L.H.—(GM-2 79671) G501-03-14846],
together by applying wrench to inner nut (square-head). Install in
reverse manner and tighten as previously explained.
(b) On Chassis Serial No. CCKW-353-236404-2 to 236520-2
Only (fig. 191). Remove the six wheel nuts. Do not loosen side ring
nuts.
736603 O - 47 - 24
•369-
TM 9-801
197-198
TRUCK, 2 Va -TON, 6x6
(2) REAR.
(a) Standard Wheel (fig. 192). Remove outer nuts (hex) first;
remove outer wheel. Remove all inner nuts (square-head); then re-
move inner wheel. When installing, install outer wheel in such a
position to permit access to inner tire valve stem (fig. 192). Tighten
wheel nuts as explained in subparagraph c (1) (a) above.
(b) On Chassis Serial No. CCKW 353-236404-2 to 236520-2
Only (fig. 191). Remove the hex wheel nuts only. Do not remove
the square-head spacer nuts. After installation, tighten nuts in man-
ner described in subparagraph c (2) above.
198. TIRES AND RIMS.
a. Standard. Pneumatic tires are held to rim with a solid clamp
ring.
b. On Chassis Serial No. CCKW 353-236404-2 to 236520-2.
These vehicle's are equipped with hinged metal bead lock type rims
with a side ring bolted to wheel.
c. Tire Inflation. Inflation pressure on standard tire is 55
pounds. On bead-lock tires, the pressure is 40 pounds. Tire pressure
in all tires must be equal. Before tires are inflated at regular inspec-
tion, each tire should be gaged for pressure loss. When making a
pressure loss check, use the same gage on all tires so that any element
of gage inaccuracy will be same on all tires. If any appreciable loss
is noted in any one tire, that tire should be dismounted and checked.
d. Tire Replacement. Replacement tires should be of same
make, if possible, as those on vehicle. If tires do not have same
outside diameter within Vi inch, excessive tread scuffing will result.
When replacement is made, make selection by measuring outside
diameter. Tires may be equipped with either non-directional or
directional treads (fig. 193). Non-directional tread tires may be
placed in any position on wheels. Directional tread tires must be
positioned as follows:
(1) FRONT. Mount with the open part of the V-tread in direc-
tion of rotation—so that open part of "V" contacts ground first.
(2) REAR. Mount so that point of "V" is toward direction of
rotation.
ONE TYPE NON-DIRECTIONAL TREAD

PATTERN
Figure 193—Tire Tread Patterns
DIRECTIONAL TREAD TYPE PATTERN
RA PD 64520
•370•
TM 9-801
198
LOCKING TUBE FLAP
RING
TUBE
WHEEL, TIRE, AND RIM
WHEEL
DISMOUNTING
MOUNTING
RA PD 333016
Figure 194—Standard Tire Mounting and Dismounting
e. Dismounting and Mounting Tires (Standard Tires) (fig.
194).
(1) DISMOUNTING. Jack up vehicle and remove wheel. Lay
wheel and tire flat. Deflate tube by removing valve core. Force one
side of clamp ring toward center of wheel until it drops into groove
in wheel. Insert heavy screw driver into recess in clamp ring and
pry this side of ring out over edge of wheel. Work ring off with tire
irons and remove tire, flap, and tube.
(2) MOUNTING.
(a) Install Tube. Install tube in tire so that valve stem is at
red dot on sidewall of tire. Install tire flap. Inflate tube sufficiently
to prevent tube falling out or being pinched during mounting.
(b) Install Tire on Rim. Place wheel flat on floor or ground
and drop tire down over wheel. Carefully insert valve stem in hole
in rim pointing toward the concave side of the wheel.
(c) Install Clamp Ring. Place one edge of clamp ring over
edge of rim and force entire ring over rim, using a heavy brass or
•371 •
TM 9-801
198
INSERTING BEAD LOCK
CLOSING BEAD LOCK HINGE
BEAD LOCK INSTALLED
RA PD 33301*
Figure 195—Bead Lock Tire and Rim Mounting and Dismaunting
soft metal hammer. Be sure clamp ring is seated against rim of
wheel through its whole circumference. Inflate tire to 55 pounds.
Install wheel and tighten mounting nuts.
f. Dismounting and Mounting Tires—Bead Lock Type
(CCKW 353-236404-2 to 236520-2 Only) (fig. 195).
(1) DISMOUNTING.
(a) Remove Wheel and Deflate Tire. Remove wheel. Com-
letely deflate tire. Do not attempt to remove side ring nuts until
tire has been completely deflated.
(b) Remove Side Ring. With wrench furnished with vehicle,
remove the 17 hex nuts which attach ring to wheel.
(c) Remove Bead Lock. Use tire irons around bead of tire to
dislodge it from rim. Lift tire, tube, and bead lock from rim. Rein-
stall valve core and inflate tube enough to spread tire beads. Use
lock ring removing bar to pry up on bead lock at a point about eight
inches from hinge. Press at point on bead lock marked, "To col-
lapse, press here." After bead lock has collapsed to limit of hinge,
turn lock 90 degrees in tire to provide necessary clearance at
•372•
TM 9-801
198-199
valve stem. Remove bead lock from casing, then deflate tube and
remove.
(2) MOUNTING.
(a) Install Tube. Install tube in casing and inflate enough to
hold in place.
(b) Install Bead Lock over Valve Stem. With bead lock col-
lapsed, insert valve stem through hole in lock. Install inside of tire
with plane of lock at 90 degrees to plane of tire. Collapse and press
bead half-way through tire.
(c) Position Bead Lock in Tire. Inflate tube sufficiently to
spring casing beads apart about same width as bead lock. Turn bead
lock in tire from its 90 degree position. While working lock into
position between tire beads, turn bead lock until lug near valve stem
is directly under stem after bead lock is in position.
(d) Close Bead Lock Hinge. Deflate tire completely. Hold one
end of lock in place with one foot, and jerk other end up sharply
with both hands until hinge snaps into place. Bead lock must be
centered so that its edges are below beads of tires all the way around.
(e) Install Tire on Rim. Install tire and bead lock assembly on
wheel rim with valve stem pointing outward. Be sure that lug on
bead lock engages valve stem slot in wheel rim.
(f) Install Side Ring. Install side ring and tighten nuts alter-
nately with wrench furnished with vehicle. These nuts must be tight-
ened before attempting to inflate tire. Inflate tire, after nuts have
been tightened, to 40 pounds. Reinstall wheel, tighten wheel nuts.
199. WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT.
a. General. All hubs are mounted on opposed tapered roller
bearings which can be adjusted for wear whenever necessary. The
actual method of adjustment is the same for both front and rear
hubs (split or banjo type axles), however, construction of adjusting
nuts, locks, lock nuts, and seals differ on the two types of axles.
b. Checking Adjustment. Jack up wheel to be checked until
tire clears ground. Check the sideways "shake" of whe'els. Grasp
tire at top -and pull back and forth, or use a long bar under tire. If
bearings are correctly adjusted, movement of brake drum in relation
to top of dust shield will be just perceptible, with wheel turning

freely. If movement is excessive, adjustment is required as explained

in subparagraphs c and d below.
c. Front Hub Bearing Adjustment.
(1) BANJO TYPE AXLES (fig. 196).
(a) Remove drive flange (par. 167 b (2)). Bend tangs of lock
away from outer nut. With wrench furnished with vehicle (use
notched end), remove outer nut. Remove nut lock.
(b) While turning wheel, tighten inner nut until wheel binds.
Back off nut about one-eighth turn, then check adjustment
(c) Install new lock, then bend short tang of lock into a notch
of inner nut. Install outer nut and tighten firmly. Check adjustment,
then bend long tangs of lock over outer nut. Reinstall drive flange
(par. 167 d (6) ).
•373•
TM 9-801
199
I INNER BEARING CUP
J INNER CONE AND ROLLERS
K INNER BEARING OIL SEAL ASSEMBLY
L INNER OIL DEFLECTOR
M DRIVE FLANGE
N DRIVE FLANGE CAP SCREW
O GASKET
RA PD 333050
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
CROSS SECTION—CONVENTIONAL TYPE DRUM SHOWN
HUB AND DRUM COMPONENTS—CONVENTIONAL TYPE DRUM
HUB AND DRUM COMPONENTS—DEMOUNTABLE TYPE DRUM
A OUTER NUT
B LOCK
C INNER NUT
D WASHER
f OUTER CONE AND ROLLERS
F OUTER BEARING CUP
G HUB
H DRUM
Figure 196—Frant Hub and Bearings—Banjo Type Axles
•374•
TM 9-801
199-200
( 2 ) SPLIT TYPE AXLES (fig. 19 7 ).
(a) Remove drive flange (par. 167 e (2) ). Bend lock away
from outer nut. With hex end of adjusting wrench, remove outer nut.
Remove nut lock.
(b) While turning wheel, tighten inner nut until wheel binds.
Back off nut about one-eighth turn, then check adjustment.
(c) Install new lock, then bend portion of lock over inner nut.
Install and tighten outer nut. Check adjustment, then bend portion
of lock over outer nut. Reinstall drive flange (par. 167 g (4) ).
d. Rear Hub Bearing Adjustment (fig. 198).
(1) BANJO TYPE AXLES. Adjustment procedures are same as
described for front hub (subpar. c (1) above) except that axle shaft
must be removed (par. 171). Outer nut also includes a seal assembly.
(2) SPLIT TYPE AXLES (fig. 199). Remove axle shaft (par.
172). Remove outer oil seal and retainer. Balance of procedure is
the same as described in subparagraph c (2) above. New axle shaft
flange and oil seal retainer gaskets must be used when these parts
are reinstalled.
200. CLEANING AND LUBRICATING WHEEL BEARINGS.
a. Whenever hubs'and bearings are removed for replacement of
parts or at periods indicated in paragraph 37, hubs and bearings
must be cleaned and lubricated in following manner:
(1) PRELIMINARY. Remove wheels (par. 197). Remove hubs
and bearings (par. 201 or 202).
(2) CLEAN AND INSPECT BEARING CONE AND ROLLER ASSEM-
BLIES. Immerse bearing cone and roller assemblies in dry-cleaning
solvent. Clean with a stiff brush to remove all old lubricant. Blow
dry with compressed air, directing air across bearings. Do not spin
dry bearings with air or hands. Inspect rollers for defects and wear.
Do not reinstall bearings if pitted, worn, or scored.
(3) LUBRICATE CONE AND ROLLER BEARING ASSEMBLIES. Using
lubricant specified on Lubrication Order, roll or knead lubricant
into rollers, completely filling spaces above and beneath cone. Use
bearing lubricator if available. Wrap bearings in clean cloth if not
to be installed immediately.
(4) CLEAN AND INSPECT HUBS AND BEARING CUPS. Thoroughly

wash hub with dry-cleaning solvent, removing all old lubricant.

Inspect condition of bearing cups. Replace if worn, distorted, or
scored.
(5) LUBRICATE HUBS AND SPINDLES. Apply a thin coat (not
over 1/16 in. thick) of same lubricant used on bearings to inside
surface of hub, outside surface of spindle, and inner surface of drive
flange. Do not pack or fill hub with lubricant as this excess may
result in leakage onto brake lining.
(6) DURING AND AFTER INSTALLATION OF HUB AND BEARINGS.
Install hubs and bearings as instructed in paragraph 201 or 202.
During installation, coat inner bearing cage and fill space between
inner bearing and inner seal with lubricant. After bearing adjust-
•375•
TM 9-801
200
CROSS SECTION—DEMOUNTABLE TYPE DRUM
HUB COMPONENTS
A DRIVE FLANGE
B OUTER NUT
C LOCK
D INNER NUT
E OUTER CONE AND ROLLERS
f OUTER BEARING CUP
e BRAKE DRUM
H INSPECTION HOLE COVER
I DRUM CAP SCREW
J LOCKING NUT, INNER
K LOCKING NUT, OUTER
L HUB
M ADAPTER
N FRONT WHEEL STUD
O INNER BEARING CUP
P INNER CONE AND ROLLERS
Q SHIELD
R SEAL RETAINER
S SEAL
T KNUCKLE
RA PD 33MW
Figure 197—Front Hub and Bearings—Split Type Axles
•376•
TM 9-801
2OO
CROSS SECTION—CONVENTIONAL TYPE DRUM SHOWN
HUB AND DRUM COMPONENTS—CONVENTIONAL TYPE DRUM
HUB AND DRUM COMPONENTS—DEMOUNTABLE TYPE DRUM
H HUB
I BRAKE DRUM
J INNER BEARING CUP
K INNER CONE AND ROLLERS
L INNER OIL SEAL ASSEMBLY
M OIL DEFLECTOR
N AXLE SHAFT
RA PD 333051
Figure 198—Rear Hub and Bearings—Banjo Type Axles
A OUTER NUT AND SEAL
B LOCK
C INNER NUT
D WASHER
E OUTER CONE AND ROLLERS
F OUTER BEARING CUP
G SNAP RING
•377•
TM 9-801
200
CDIM
ABA
HUB COMPONENTS
A FLANGE GASKET
B OUTER OIL SEAL
C OUTER NUT
D LOCK
E INNER NUT
F WASHER
G OUTER CONE AND ROLLERS
H DRUM SCREW
I OUTER BEARING CUP
J OUTER LOCKING NUT
K INNER LOCKING NUT
L BRAKE DRUM
M HUB
N WHEEL STUD
O INNER BEARING CUP
P INNER CONE AND ROLLERS
O RETAINER
R OIL SEAL
S RETAINER
T SHIELD
U GASKET
RA PD 333002
Figure 199—Rear Hub and Bearings—Spfit Type Axle
•378•
TM 9-801
200-201
ment, fill annular space between hub wall and adjusting nut (out-
side of outer bearing) with lubricant.
201. HUBS AND BEARINGS—BANJO TYPE AXLES.
a. Description.
(1) FRONT (fig. 196). The hub and bearings are retained in
place with inner and outer adjusting nuts, with a star lock between
the two nuts. A spacer washer is used between outer bearing and
inner adjusting nut. An oil seal assembly is pressed into inner end.
of hub.
(2) REAR (fig. 198). The hub and bearings are retained in place
with an inner adjusting nut and an outer nut and seal assembly.
A star lock is installed between inner and outer nuts. A spacer
washer is used between outer bearing and inner adjusting nut. An
oil seal assembly is pressed into inner end of hub.
b. Front Hub and Bearing Removal.
(1) REMOVE WHEEL AND DRIVE FLANGE. Remove wheel. Re-
move drive flange (par. 167b (2) ).
(2) REMOVE ADJUSTING NUTS, LOCK, AND SPACER WASHER.
Bend tangs of lock away from outer nut. Remove outer nut and
lock [(GM-3659724) G85-31-08140], then remove inner nut and
spacer washer.
'
RA PD 332964
Figure 200—Removing Inner Cone and Rollers (Puller 41 -P-2898)
•379•
TM 9-801
201
(3) REMOVE HUB AND BEARINGS. Pull hub and drum straight
off from steering knuckle. Bearings, cups, and inner oil seal are
withdrawn with hub and drum. Remove outer bearing cone and
roller assembly [(GM-144507) G85-31-04520] with fingers.
(4) REMOVE INNER OIL SEAL AND CONE AND ROLLER ASSEM-
BLY. With special puller (41-P-2898), remove inner bearing cone
assembly, [(GM-186574) G85-31-04500] and inner oil seal [(GM-
3665138) G-85-31-12420]. The remover tool is installed in hub by
tilting the plate with the chain attached, so that it may be slipped
through the bearing and engage the outer race of the bearing. The
plate is then held in this position by chain while threading the re-
mover shaft into the tapped hole. The remover body is then located
against the seal housing. The bearing assembly and oil seal are re-
moved by turning the remover handle (fig. 200).
(5) REMOVE CUPS (!F NECESSARY). Use a drift through inner
side of hub. With light hammer, drive on alternate sides to prevent
cocking in hub. [Inner cup—(GM-186573) G85-31-05000; outer
cup—(GM-142224) G85-31-05020].
c. Front Hub and Bearing Installation.
(1) CLEAN AND LUBRICATE HUB AND BEARINGS. Clean and lu-
bricate hub and bearings as directed in paragraph 200.
(2) INSTALL CUPS. Install inner and outer cups in hub with
RA PD 332937
Figure 201 —Methad of Installing Outer Cup—Front Hub
(Driver Head 41 -H-1780 and Handle 41 -H-1074)
•380•
TM 9-801
201
wide side of each cup toward center of hub. Use special driver head
(41-H-1780) with handle (41-H-1074) in manner illustrated in
figure 201 for both cups.
(3) INSTALL INNER CONE AND ROLLER ASSEMBLY AND OIL
SEAL. Install inner cone and roller assembly in hub; then install new
inner oil seal into hub. Use a replacer similar to that illustrated in
figure 202, or a block of wood. Flexible portion of seal must be
toward bearing. Follow lubrication instructions as described in para-
graph 200.
(4) INSTALL HUB AND OUTER BEARING. Install hub, then outer
bearing. Install spacer washer, inner nut, lock, and outer nut. Tighten
temporarily. Do not adjust bearings until wheel is installed.
(5) INSTALL WHEEL AND ADJUST BEARINGS. Install wheel,
then adjust bearings as described in paragraph 199 c (1). Fill
annular space between --hub wall and adjusting nut with lubricant
(par. 200).
(6) INSTALL DRIVE FLANGE. Install drive flange (par. 167 d
(6).
d. Rear Hub Bearing Removal.
(1) REMOVE WHEEL AND AXLE SHAFT. Remove wheel. Re-
move axle shaft (par. 171).
(2) REMOVE ADJUSTING NUTS, LOCK, AND SPACER WASHER.
Bend tangs away from outer nut, then remove outer nut and seal
[(GM-3660091) G85-31-08780], lock [(GM-3660090) G85-31-
08180], inner nut, and spacer washer.
(3) REMOVE HUB AND BEARINGS. Pull hub and drum straight
from axle housing. Bearing cones, cups, and inner seal will be with-
drawn with hub. Remove outer bearing cone [(GM-144526) G501-
01-39901 ] from hub with fingers.
Figure 202— Installing Inner Seal
HUB
BRAKE DRUM
HA PD 331905
•381•
TM 9-801
201
REPLACER
RA PD 332906
Figure 203—Method of Installing Outer Cup—Rear Hub
(Handle 41-H-1511 with Rep/acer 41-R-2396-20)
(4) REMOVE INNER OIL SEAL AND INNER BEARING CONE
ASSEMBLY. Follow instructions described in subparagraph b (4)
above—[inner cone, (GM-144528) G501-01-39902; seal (GM-
599847) G85-31-12560].
(5) REMOVE CUPS (!F NECESSARY). Use a drift through inner
side of hub. When removing outer cup, use drift against cup and
not against snap ring. Do not remove snap ring unless damaged,
[inner cup (GM-127631) G501-01-43548; outer cup (GM-127627)
G501-01-43547].
e. Rear Hub and Bearing Installation.
(1) CLEAN AND LUBRICATE HUB AND BEARINGS. Clean and lubri-
cate hub and bearings as directed in paragraph 200.
(2) INSTALL CUPS. Install inner and outer cups in hub with
wide side of each cup toward center of hub. On inner cup use special
replacer (41-R-2396-22) with handle (41-H-1511). On outer cup
use special replacer (41-R-2396-20) with handle (41-H-1511). Drive
outer cup against snap ring (fig. 203).
(3) INSTALL INNER CONE AND ROLLER ASSEMBLY. Install inner
cone and roller assembly into hub. If new inner oil seal is used, soak
in warm engine oil until leather is pliable. Install seal into hub and
lock in place by prick punching at three equally spaced points. Fol-
low lubrication instructions in paragraph 200.
(4) INSTALL HUB AND OUTER BEARING. Install hub, then outer
bearing. Install spacer washer, inner nut, lock, and outer nut and
seal assembly. Tighten temporarily. Install wheel.
•382•
TM 9-801
201-202
(5) ADJUST BEARINGS. Adjust bearings as described in para-
graph 199 d (1). Fill annular space between hub wall and adjusting
nut with lubricant (par. 200).
(6 ) INSTALL AXLE SHAFT. Install axle shaft (par. 171).
202. HUBS AND BEARINGS—SPLIT TYPE AXLES.
a. Description.
(1) FRONT (fig. 197). The hub and bearings are retained in
place with an inner and outer nut, with a lock between the two nuts.
An oil seal and retainer is pressed on steering knuckle at inner end
of hub»
(2) REAR (fig. 199). The hub and bearings are retained in place
with an inner and outer nut with a lock between the two nuts. The
outer end of hub is equipped with a spring loaded oil seal assembly
installed around outer nut and bolted to hub in conjunction with
axle shaft flange. Inner seal is installed on axle housing tube behind
inner bearing cone and roller assembly. An oil slinger is bolted
directy to hub and drum.
b. Front Hub and Bearing Removal.
(1) REMOVE DRIVE FLANGE. Remove wheel. Remove drive
flange (par. 167 c (2) ).
(2) REMOVE ADJUSTING NUTS AND LOCK. Straighten tangs on
lock. Remove outer nut, then remove lock and inner nut
RA PD 332922
Figure 204—Installing Inner Cup (Driver Head 41-H-1780
with Handle 41-H-1074)
•383•
TM 9-801
202
(3) REMOVE HUB AND BEARINGS. Pull hub and drum assembly
straight off steering knuckle. The outer bearing cone [ (GM-144507)
G85-31-04520] and both cups will be removed with hub.
(4) REMOVE INNER BEARING AND SEAL. Remove inner bearing
cone assembly [(GM-186574) G85-31-04500]. Pry inner oil seal
( (GM-2031377) G57-03-82801] and retainer from steering knuckle.
(5 ) REMOVE BEARING CUPS (!F NECESSARY). Inspect both inner
and outer cups. If worn or pitted, use a drift through inner side of
hub to remove, [inner cup—GM-186573) G85-31-05000; outer
cup—(GM-142224) G85-31-05020].
c. Front Hub and Bearing Installation.
(1) CLEAN AND LUBRICATE HUB AND BEARING. Clean and lubri-
cate as described in paragraph 200.
(2) INSTALL CUPS (fig. 204). Install inner and outer bearing
cups in hub with wide side of cup toward center of hub. Use special
driver head (41-H-1780) and handle (41-H-1074).
(3) INSTALL INNER SEAL AND RETAINER. With block of wood,
install inner seal and retainer on steering knuckle.
(4) INSTALL INNER BEARING (fig. 205). Install inner bearing
and cone assembly on spindle using special replacer (41-R-2391-83).
(5) INSTALL HUB AND DRUM ASSEMBLY. Position hub and drum
over steering knuckle. Insert outer bearing cone and roller assembly
DA PD 332915
Figure 205—Installing Inner Bearing Cone and Rollers
(Replacer 41 -ft-2391 -83)
•384•
TM 9-801
202
in place. Follow hub and bearing lubrication instructions in para-
graph 200. Install inner nut, lock, and outer nut. Install wheel.
graph 199 c (2), then install drive flange (par. 167 g (4) ).
d. Rear Hub and Bearing Removal.
(1) REMOVE AXLE SHAFT. Remove wheel. Remove axle shaft
(par. 172).
(2) REMOVE HUB AND DRUM. Remove outer oil seal [(GM-
2095544) G57-03-82828J, outer nut, lock (GM-057148), and inner
nut and washer. Pull hub and drum straight from axle housing. Outer
bearing cone [(GM-142257) G85-01-00515] and both cups will be
withdrawn with hub.
(3) REMOVE INNER BEARING CONE AND SEAL. Remove inner
bearing cone assembly [(GM-142258) G85-01-00510]. A slight pry
on oil seal [ (GM-675758) G85-01-02465J and retainers will remove
these parts.
(4) REMOVE CUPS (!F NECESSARY). Inspect cups. If worn or
pitted, remove by using a drift through inner side of hub. Drive on
cups on alternate sides. [Inner cup—(GM-142224) G85-31-05020;
outer cup—(GM-142256)].
e. Rear Hub and Bearing Installation.
(1) CLEAN AND LUBRICATE HUB AND BEARINGS. Clean and lubri-
cate hub and bearings as directed in paragraph 200.
(2) INSTALL CUPS (fig. 206). Install inner and outer cups in
hub, using special replacer (41-R-2396-12).
(3) INSTALL INNER OIL SEAL. Install inner seal retainer, seal,
and outer retainer in place with block of wood.
(4) INSTALL INNER BEARING CONE (fig. 205). Install inner
RA PD 332911
Figure 206—Installing Outer Cup (Replacer 41-R-2396-12)
REPLACER
736603 O - 47 - 25
385-
TM 9-801
202-204
bearing cone and roller using special replacer (41-R-2391-83).
(5) INSTALL HUB AND DRUM. Position hub and drum over
axle housing. Insert outer bearing cone and roller assembly in place.
Follow hub and bearing lubrication instructions as described in
paragraph 200. Install inner spacer, inner nut, lock, and outer nut.
Install wheel.
graph 199 d (2).
(7) INSTALL OUTER OIL SEAL. Install outer oil seal and retainer,
using gasket between hub and seal retainer. Install axle shaft (par.
172).
Section XXXVI
STEERING SYSTEM
203. DESCRIPTION.
a. The steering system consists of a conventional steering gear
assembly, mounted on the inner side of the left-hand frame side rail
and interconnected to the front axle steering arm by a pitman arm
and drag link. Turning the steering wheel transmits movement
through the worm, worm hut, pitman shaft gear, and pitman shaft to
the pitman arm. The drag link connecting the pitman arm to the
axle steering arm, transmits the movement to the front wheels
through the steering arm and tie rod.
a. Preliminary Instructions.
(1) The design of the steering gear assembly provides for three
adjustments: worm bearings, sector gear lash, and steering gear
mounting. These adjustments must be made in the sequence given.
(2) Loosen two nuts on steering column to dash mounting
bracket to eliminate any possibility of binding. Make sure steering
gear to frame side rail mounting bolts are tight.
(3) Remove lock nuts and nuts from exhaust pipe flange to
manifold bolts and remove bolts. Loosen exhaust pipe to muffler
clamp bolt and push exhaust pipe down and toward engine.
(4) Disconnect drag link at steering arm (par. 207).
(5) Loosen lash adjuster screw lock nut (fig. 207), and with an
offset screw driver, back lash adjuster screw out a few turns.
b. Worm Bearing Adjustment (fig. 207).

(1) ADJUST WORM BEARING THRUST. Loosen lock nut on worm
bearing adjusting screw and turn adjusting screw counterclockwise
a few turns. Turn steering wheel gently to right or left until it stops,
•386•
TM 9-801
204
STEERING SYSTEM
then turn wheel back one turn. CAUTION: Approach end of gear
travel cautiously to prevent damage to worm nut. Make sure end
cover screws are tight. Tighten worm bearing adjusting screw until
end play is removed, then tighten lock nut.
(2) MEASURE PULL AT STEERING WHEEL RIM. Use spring scale
(41-S-503) to measure pull required to keep wheel in motion. Make
test with scale at rim of wheel, with the scale at right angles to the
wheel spoke (fig. 208). With wheel in motion, scale should read 1 to
IVz pounds. If necessary, loosen lock nut and turn worm bearing
adjusting screw in proper direction to obtain correct reading.
(3) CHECK FOR "LUMPY" ACTION. After adjusting worm bear-
ings, check action by turning steering wheel gently from extreme
right to extreme left. If any lumpy or uneven action is noted, bearings
are damaged. Notify higher authority.
c. Sector Gear Lash Adjustment (fig. 207).
(1) TIGHTEN SIDE COVER SCREWS. Make sure there is backlash
between gear teeth before tightening side cover screws. Backlash
should have been obtained before worm bearings were adjusted
(subpar. a (5) above). Determine backlash by grasping pitman
arm and noting any free movement of pitman shaft in housing. Re-
move lock wire from cap screw heads, tighten cap screws firmly, and
install new lock wire.
(2) LOCATE CENTER OF STEERING WHEEL ROTATION. Turn
steering wheel gently from extreme right to extreme left position and
count the number of revolutions. Turn wheel back exactly halfway
and mark position of wheel with a piece of tape.
(3) ADJUST SECTOR GEAR LASH. Tighten lash adjuster screw
until all backlash is removed. Tighten adjuster screw lock nut.
(4) CHECK ADJUSTMENT. Use spring scale (41-S-503) in same
manner as described in subparagraph li (2) above, and note reading
as wheel is pulled through center position (fig. 208). This reading
ADJUSTING WORM BEARINGS SECTOR GEAR LASH ADJUSTER SCREW
. RA PD 332954
Figure 207—Steering Gear Adjustments
•387•
TM 9-801
204-205
TRUCK,
-TON, 6x6
RA PD 332953
Figure 208—Cheeking Adjustments with Spring Scale
(Spring Scale 41 •S-503)
should be 2 to 2i/2 pounds. If necessary, tighten or loosen lash ad-
juster screw to obtain correct reading.
d. Steering Gear Mounting Adjustment (fig. 209). Adjust cab
mounting and tighten mounting bolts (par. 221). Loosen four steer-
ing gear' mounting bolts at frame side rail just enough to permit
steering gear to aline itself when mounting is tightened at dash.
Tighten nuts on steering column to dash mounting. Tighten steering
gear mounting bolts at frame side rail with torque wrench, tightening
upper front (pivot) bolt last to 160-170'foot-pounds. Install lock
nuts on bolts and tighten firmly. Check wheel pull with spring scale
(subpar. c (4) above). If pull exceeds 2i/2 pounds, binding is indi-
cated and cab mounting must be rechecked (par. 221).
e. Final Operations.
(1) Adjust and connect drag link to steering arm (par. 207).
(2) Connect exhaust pipe to manifold (par. 103), and tighten
exhaust pipe to muffler clamp bolt.
205. PITMAN ARM.
a. Removal (fig. 210). Remove nut and lock washer attaching
pitman arm to pitman shaft. Disconnect drag link from pitman arm
ball stud (par. 207). Install puller (41-P-2952) on pitman arm and
pull arm off pitman shaft.
b. Installation (fig. 210). Set front wheels in straight-ahead
position and locate steering wheel at center of travel (par. 204 c
(2)). Aline serrations in pitman arm with serrations on shaft (fig.
210), and place arm over shaft so that drag link can be installed
on pitman arm ball stud without changing the position of the steering
•388•
TM 9-801
205-207
STEERING SYSTEM
COLUMN MOUNTING
RA PD 332981
Figure 209—Steering Gear Mounting at Frame and Dash
wheel or front wheels. Adjust and install drag link (par. 207). Install
lock washer and nut on pitman shaft and tighten nut with torque
wrench to 150-160 foot-pounds.
206. STEERING WHEEL.
a. Removal (fig. 211). Remove two screws attaching horn but-
ton retainer to steering wheel and remove retainer, horn button, con-
tact, insulator, and spring. Remove steering wheel retaining nut and
horn terminal plate. Assemble puller (41-P-2954) and adapter (41-
A-18-251) on steering wheel in manner shown in figure 211 and pull
steering wheel off worm shaft.
b. Installation. Make sure key is in place in keyseat on worm
shaft. Aline keyway in steering wheel hub with key in shaft and place
steering wheel on shaft. Install horn terminal plate and steering
wheel retaining nut and tighten nut firmly. Install spring, insulator,
contact, button, and retainer in steering wheel and attach with two
screws.
207. DRAG LINK.
a. Description. The drag link assembly is made up of a tubular
shaft fitted with ball socket assemblies at both ends (fig. 212). The
end assemblies contain identical parts, but parts are assembled in
different sequence in the two ends.
•389•
TM 9-801
207
PITMAN ARM
PULLER PITMAN SHAFT
PITMAN ARM
PULLING PITMAN ARM
PITMAN ARM INSTALLATION
RA PD 332917
Figure 210—Pitman Arm Removal and Installation
(Puller 41-P-2952)
b. Adjustment. Be sure drag link ball seats are thoroughly lubri-
cated before making adjustment. Remove cotter pin from drag link
end. Screw end plug in tight with ball in place, then back off one-
quarter to one-half turn and insert new cotter pin. Repeat at other
end.
c. Removal. Remove cotter pin from both ends of drag link.
Back out end plugs as far as possible without removing them. Turn
steering wheel in both directions to loosen ball studs in drag link
ends, then pull drag link off steering arm ball stud and pitman arm
ball stud. NOTE: Drag link can be disconnected at one end only if
so desired for replacing pitman arm or steering arm.
(I. Installation.
(1) CONNECT DRAG LINK TO STEERING ARM. Opening for ball
stud at steering arm end is closer to end than at pitman arm end.
Remove end plug from steering arm end and check order in which
parts are installed (fig. 212). Correct order is: washer, spacer, safety
plug, spring, inner ball seat, outer ball seat, and end plug. Pack
lubricant (Section VIII) into ball seats. With inner ball seat in posi-
tion (notch toward opening), place opening in drag link end over
steering arm ball stud. Install outer ball seat and end plug. Do not
install cotter pin until adjustment is made.
(2) CHECK ALINEMENT OF RELATED PARTS. Before connecting
drag link to pitman arm ball stud, turn steering wheel GENTLY to
extreme left and turn front wheels to left against stop screw. Hold
drag link against pitman arm ball; ball should be at least one-half
•390•
TM 9-801
207
STEERING SYSTEM
RA PD 316812
Figure 21 ?— Pulling Steering Wheel (Puller 41-P-2954
with Adapter 41 -A-18-251)
inch ahead of its position in drag link. Repeat check for extreme right
turn; pitman arm ball should be at least one-half inch behind its
position in drag link. If over travel of pitman arm ball is less than
one-half inch either way or does not reach extreme travel of drag
link socket, steering worm nut will strike steering gear housing or
end cover, causing damage to worm nut and ball guides. This con-
dition will also cause bending of end cover and loosening cover
D SAFETY PLUG
E SPACER
F WASHER
Figure 212—Drag Link Assembly
RA PD 332997
•391•
TM 9-801
207-209
screws with resultant oil leaks. If such a condition is present, check
the following items, replace damaged parts, or report condition to
higher authority.
(a) Bent or twisted pitman arm.
(b) Bent drag link
(c) Bent or twisted front axle steering arm.
(d) Front axle out of position on front springs.
(e) Steering knuckle stop screws out of adjustment, bent, or
missing.
(3) CONNECT DRAG LINK TO PITMAN ARM. Set front wheels in
straight-ahead position and locate steering wheel at center of travel
(par. 204 c (2)). Remove end plug from rear end of drag link and
check order in which parts are installed. Correct order is: washer,
spacer, inner ball seat, outer ball seat, spring, safety plug, and end
plug. With washer, spacer, and inner ball seat in place (notch in seat
toward opening), pack lubricant (Section VIII) into ball opening.
Place opening in side of drag link over pitman arm ball stud and in-
stall outer ball seat, spring, safety plug, and end plug in the order
named. Adjust both ends of drag link (subpar. b above) and lubri-
cate (Section VIII).
Section XXXVII
FRONT AND REAR SPRING SUSPENSION
208. DESCRIPTION.
a. The front springs are semi-elliptic type, shackled at front and
pivoted at rear. The springs are mounted on axle housings with U-
bolts on banjo type axles and with studs and bolts on split type
axles. Rear spring suspension consists of inverted semi-elliptic
springs, mounted on roller bearing spring seats, and retained with
U-bolts. Slipper type spring ends are located in guide brackets on
each rear axle. The ends of the springs are free to slide forward or
backward to permit the springs to lengthen and retract under load
compression and rebound action. Torque rods, three at each axle,
interconnect the forward rear (intermediate) axle and the rearward
rear axle with the trunnion brackets and vehicle frame.
209. FRONT SPRING SUSPENSION.
a. Description. Two types of shackles are used on these vehicles,

depending upon the type of axle used.

(1) Y-TYPE SHACKLES—BANJO TYPE AXLES (figs. 213 and
214). This type shackle is attached to the bracket and spring by
means of pins. The outside ends of the pins are grooved to permit in-
stallation of clamping bolts. Use of spacer is shown in figure 214.
•392*
TM 9-801
209
RIGHT SIDE
A BUMPER BLOCK
B U-BOLT NUT
C U-BOLT
D SHOCK ABSORBER LINK
E SHOCK ABSORBER LINK BRACKET
F FRONT SPRING
RA PD 333027
Figure 213—Frant Springs Installed—Banjo Type Axle
(2 ) U-TYPE SHACKLES—SPLIT TYPE AXLES (figs. 215 and 216).
This type shackle is attached to the frame bracket and spring by
means of shackle bolts. All upper shackle bolts are retained by nuts
and cotter pins, while the lower shackle bolts may be retained by
nuts and cotter pins, or the bolts may be threaded into the shackles
and retained by a lock plate. These differences are shown in figure
215 and are noted, as necessary, in the text when removal or in-
stallation procedures are affected.
•393•
TM 9-801
209
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
BANJO TYPE AXLE WITHOUT
WINCH-RIGHT-HAND
BANJO TYPE AXLE WITHOUT
WINCH-1EFT-HAND
BANJO TYPE AXLE WITH
WINCH—RIGHT-HAND
BANJO TYPE AXLE WITH
WINCH-LEFT-HAND
SA PD 333052
Figure 214—Front Spring Shackles—Banjo Type Axle
b. Spring and Shackle Removal (Banjo Type Axles) (figs.
213 and 214). The following procedures are in logical sequence for
removing and installing all front springs, spring shackles, and shackle
bolts; however, individual parts may be removed and installed sep-
arately as necessary.
(1) RAISE FRONT END OF VEHICLE. Jack up front end of vehicle
until spring tension is relieved. Block rear wheels to prevent vehicle
from rolling.
(2) REMOVE U-BOLTS. Remove all U-bolt nuts, remove U-bolts,
shock absorber bracket, and bumper block.
(3) REMOVE SHACKLE AND PINS. Remove shackle pin clamp
bolts, and drive out shackle pins. Frame is provided with a hole to
facilitate driving out upper pin.
•394•
TM 9-801
209
.. -3
LEFT SIDE
A BUMPER BLOCK
B SHOCK ABSORBER LINK
C SHOCK ABSORBER LINK BRACKET
RIGHT SIDE
D STUD NUT
E STUD
F FRONT SPRING
RA PD 333053
Figure 215—Front Springs Installed—Split Type Axle
(4) REMOVE REAR BRACKET BOLT. Remove cotter pin and nut
from rear bracket bolt. Drive out bolt and remove spring [with
winch (GM-2140052) G508-03-89810; less winch (GM-2140053)
G508-03-89792 1 assembly.
c. Spring and Shackle Installation (Banjo Type Axles) (figs.
213 and 214).
(1) POSITION SPRING. Place spring in position and install rear
bracket bolt and nut, draw nut up tight, and install new cotter pin.
(2) INSTALL FRONT SHACKLE. Line up shackle and spacer in
front bracket with spacer positioned as necessary (fig. 214), then
drive in upper pin. The spacer is used on outer side of right front
spring with winch and on inner side of right front spring without
winch. Aline hole in spring eye with lower holes in shackle and drive
in lower pin. Make sure grooves in pins line up with holes in shackle.
Install and tighten clamp bolts, lock washers and nuts.
(3) INSTALL U-BoLTS. Install U-bolts, bumper block, and shock
absorber bracket on front springs and axle housing, then install U-
bolt nuts. Tighten nuts with torque wrench to 170-185 foot-pounds
and remove jack.
d. Spring and Shackle Removal (Split Type Axles) (figs. 215
and 216).
(1) RAISE FRONT END. Jack up front end of vehicle until ten-
sion on spring is relieved. Block rear wheels.
(2) REMOVE STUD OR BOLT NUTS. Four studs are used to re-
tain right-hand spring and four bolts are used to retain left-hand
•395•
TM 9-801
209
EARLY MODELS WITH
WINCH-RIGHT-HAND
EARLY MODELS WITHOUT
WINCH—LEFT-HAND
EARLY MODELS WITH
WINCH—LEFT-HAND
EARLY MODELS WITHOUT
WINCH—RIGHT-HAND
LATE MODELS WITH
WINCH—RIGHT-HAND
LATE MODELS WITH
WINCH—LEFT-HAND
LATE MODELS WITHOUT
WINCH—RIGHT-HAND
LATE MODELS WITHOUT
WINCH—LEFT-HAND
RA PD 333054
Figure 216—Frant Spring Shackles—Split Type Axle
•396•
TM 9-801
209
spring. Loosen and remove nuts from either studs or bolts, then re-
move bumper block and shock absorber bracket.
(3) REMOVE SHACKLE BOLTS. Remove the cotter pins and nuts
from shackle bolts, then use a lead hammer and a punch to drive
out bolts. On the left front spring on early vehicles with winch, and
on both front springs on late vehicles with or without winch, the
lower bolt must be unscrewed, not driven out. Bend tangs of lock
away from hex end of bolt and unscrew bolt.
(4) REMOVE REAR BRACKET BOLT. Remove cotter pin and nut
from rear bracket bolt, then use a lead hammer and a punch and
drive out bolt. Spring assembly [with winch (GM-2140052) G508-
03-89810; less winch (GM-2140053) G508-03-89792] may then be
withdrawn.
e. Spring and Shackle Installation (Split Type Axles) (figs.
215 and 216).
(1) POSITION SPRING. Place spring in position. Install rear
bracket bolt and nut, draw nut up tight, then install new cotter pin.
(2) POSITION SHACKLE. Line up holes in shackle and front
bracket, install top bolt, nut, and cotter pin. Line up holes in shackle
and front spring and install bottom bolt and spacer. On vehicles
equipped with winch, the spacer is installed on inner side of shackle
on right-hand spring, while on left-hand spring, the spacer is installed
on outer side of shackle. On vehicles without winch, spacers are
installed on the inner side on both front springs. Install nut on bolt
or thread bolt into shackle, as the case may be (fig. 216), and draw
up tight, then back off one-half turn and install cotter pin or bend
lock plate against hex end of bolt.
(3) INSTALL SPRING SEAT BOLTS AND BUMPER BLOCKS. Install
spring seat bolts (left front spring only). Studs are used at right
front spring. Make sure that guard is installed on bottom of the
two left-hand front bolts. Install bumper blocks, shock absorber
A REAR SPRING ASSEMBLY
B U BOLTS
C U-BOLT NUTS
D U-BOLT SPACER
E SPRING SEAT
F SPRING SEAT CLAMP BOLT

G SPRING SEAT CAP
H LOWER TORQUE ROD
Figure 217—Rear Spring Installed
RA PD 333008
•397•
TM 9-801
209-211
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
brackets, and nuts. Tighten nuts with torque wrench to 170-185
foot-pounds and remove jack.
210. REAR SPRINGS.
a. Description. The rear springs are inverted semi-elliptic type
(fig. 217) with the center of spring held to the spring seat by two
U-bolts. The ends of the spring ride in the spring guide brackets on
the axle housings.
(1) HOIST REAR END OF VEHICLE. Position jack under cross
shaft to frame bracket and jack up vehicle enough to relieve spring
tension on side to be serviced. Block wheels to keep vehicle from
rolling. Loosen and remove outer wheel nuts (hex), and remove the
two outer wheels on side to be serviced.
(2) REMOVE U-BoLTS. Loosen and remove U-bolt nuts and
spacer. Loosen spring seat clamp bolts.
(3) REMOVE SPRING FROM VEHICLE. Force spring off seat, then
slide back until front end of spring can be lifted out of bracket on
forward rear axle. Raise up front end of spring and pull forward
until rear end of spring clears bracket on rearward axle and remove
from under vehicle.
( 1) POSITION SPRING. Place end of spring in bracket on forward
rear axle and slide spring forward in bracket until rear of spring
will enter bracket on rearward axle and then slide spring toward
rear until center bolt drops into recess in spring seat. Make sure
spring center bolt is tight. Place U-bolt spacer in position on top of
spring.
(2) INSTALL U-BOLTS. Insert U-bolts in place with top of U-
bolts seated in groove in spacer. Thread nuts on U-bolts and tighten
with torque wrench to 200-220 foot-pounds, then tighten spring seat
clamp bolts.
(3) INSTALL WHEELS. Install wheels and make certain that in-
ner and outer wheel nuts are tight. Lower vehicle to ground and re-
move jack. Check tightness of spring U-bolts with spring under load.
211. REAR SPRING SEATS.
a. Description The rear spring seats are supported on the trun-

nion cross shaft by tapered roller bearings (fig. 218), which must be
lubricated at intervals specified in Section VIII, and inspected and
disassembled at intervals indicated in Section XI, if satisfactory
spring operation is to be obtained. The bearings must be carefully
adjusted upon reassembly.
b. Check Bearing Adjustment. Position jack under cross shaft
and raise to relieve weight on spring. Remove outer wheels. Then
take out U-bolts. Remove spring from spring seat and lower jack
under cross shaft. Oscillate spring seat either way while pulling and
pushing on seat. If seat oscillates smoothly without perceptible end
play or side shake, no further inspection is required and spring can
•398•
TM 9-801
211
be reinstalled. If end play or side shake is noticed or if oscillation
is jerky, spring seat and bearings have to be removed for further
inspection.
c. Remove Spring Seat (fig. 218). Remove bearing cap and
gasket by removing the four cap screws holding cap to seat assem-
bly. Straighten bent-over portion of nut lock, then remove lock nut,
lock adjusting nut, and washer. Remove spring seat together with
outer bearing cone and roller assembly, outer and inner bearing
cups and seal flange. Lift outer bearing assembly out of spring seat.
(I. Clean and Inspect Bearings and Cups. Wash bearing cone
and roller assemblies and cups thoroughly with dry-cleaning solvent,
wipe bearings and cups dry and inspect them carefully. If surfaces
of cups or bearing rollers are pitted, they should be replaced. A pitted
Figure 218—Rear Spring Seat Cross Section
FELT TYPE SEAL
A SPRING SEAT CAP
B SPRING SEAT
C SPRING
D OIL SEAL
E BEARING SPACER
t CROSS SHAFT
G CROSS SHAFT BRACKET
H SUPPORT BRACKET
I TORQUE ROD
J OIL SEAL FLANGE
RA PD 333014
.399.
TM 9-801
211
surface is one in which small particles have broken out, leaving
jagged depressions. Bearings used in spring seats roll back and forth
as vehicle passes over uneven terrain, but bearing rollers always
return to same relative position in cups. In fact, bearing rollers rest
in this one position most of the time. Polished lines appear on bear-
ing cups, showing "resting" position of rollers and should not be con-
fused with pitting. These lines are spaced according to distance be-
tween line of contact and each roller. These lines are not harmful
and bearings should not be replaced unless rough or jerky condition
can be felt by rotating bearing roller assembly in race, or if surfaces
of cups are actually pitted or broken. If bearing cups or cones are
damaged, replace with new parts. Wash seal and seal flange thor-
oughly. Wipe dry and inspect flange for pitted or worn condition.
Check tightness of flange in spring seat . Replace if necessary.
e. Remove Bearing Cups, Inner Bearing, and Seal (If Neces-
sary).
(1) REMOVE CUPS. Drive bearing cups out of spring seat, using
a punch and hammer. Be careful not to cock cups during removal
to prevent damaging the seat . If seat is fitted with a seal flange (used
with new lip type seal), this flange must be removed before inner
cup can be removed. Remove flange by driving a chisel between
flange and seat and prying out
(2) REMOVE INNER BEARING AND SEAL. Remove inner bearing
from end of cross shaft . Pry oil seal off shoulder on cross shaft
bracket.
f. Install Bearing Cups. Install bearing cups in spring seat with
wide edge of cup toward center of seat. Use replacer (41-R-2385-
276) to drive outer cup (Timken-2720) firmly against shoulder in
seat. Use replacer (41-R-2385-275) to drive inner cup (Timken-
3720) against shoulder in seat
g. Lubricate Bearings. Lubricate bearings as directed in Section
VIII.
h. Install Spring Seat, Bearings, and Oil Seal (fig. 218).
NOTE: Two types of oil seals have been used on these vehicles.
Early type seal consists of a felt, retainer, and washer. Late type is a
lip type seal used with a seal flange. Whenever the spring seat is re-
moved, replace the felt type seal with a new lip type seal, if available.
Instructions are also given for installing felt type seal in the event
the lip type seal is not available.
(1) INSTALL SEAL AND BEARING.
(a) Lip Type Seal. Apply a small amount of gasket cement (No.
1) to seal shoulder of cross shaft frame bracket and drive seal
against end of shoulder with special replacer (41-R-2397-425). Be
sure that cupped side of rubber seal is toward frame. Install bearing
spacer on cross shaft. Install bearing cone and roller assembly, using
replacer (41-R-2391-30). If seal flange was removed, coat outside
of flange sparingly with gasket cement (No. 1) and press into spring
seat.
•400*
TM 9-801
211
(b) Felt Type Seal. Install seal washer, felt, and retainer on
cross shaft bracket. Make sure that retainer flange is under felt and
away from bearing. Install inner bearing cone and roller assembly,
using replacer (41-R-2391-30).
(2) INSTALL SPRING SEAT. Fill cavity between inner seal and
bearing with lubricant and apply a small amount of lubricant on
seal contacting surfaces. Position spring seat on cross shaft end and
install outer bearing.
(3) INSTALL ADJUSTING NUT AND WASHER. Place adjusting nut
washer and adjusting nut (inner) over end of cross shaft. Draw ad-
justing nut up to approximate adjustment. Spring seat should be
oscillated while tightening to prevent grease from being squeezed
out from under bearing rollers.
(4) ADJUST BEARINGS. Tighten adjusting nut until slight in-
crease in bearing drag over original drag of bearing seal is noticed
when seat is oscillated. Lubricate bearings with pressure gun (Sec-
tion VIII).
(5) INSTALL BEARING CAP. When adjusting nut is tightened
properly, replace adjusting nut lock and locking nut (outer). Tighten
locking nut securely. Test adjustment once more to see that it has
SPLIT TYPE AXLE
Figure 219—Upper Torque Rads Installed
736603 0-47-26 *401"
RA PD 332986
TM 9-801
211-212
TRUCK, 2 V2 -TON, 6x6
not been changed and correct if necessary. Bend portion of nut lock
over flats of adjusting nut and lock nut. Install the bearing cap and
new gasket. Install and tighten the four cap screws and lock washers.
Install spring (par. 210 c) and install outer wheels.
212. TORQUE RODS.
a. Description. Torque rods, three on each side, interconnect
the forward rear (intermediate) axle and the rearward rear axle with
the trunnion brackets and frame crossmember (figs. 217 and 219).
The ball pin studs at each end of all six torque rods are mounted in
special bearings. The torque rods used with split type axles are 1 l/z
inches longer than those used with banjo type axles.
b. Removal.
(1) JACK UP VEHICLE. Place jack under spring seat and raise
until tension is off springs. Remove nuts and lock washers from
torque rod pins.
(2) REMOVE PINS AT EACH END OF TORQUE RODS (fig. 220).
Force torque rod pins out of brackets. To start pins, insert a claw
bar between bracket and hub of torque arm. Strike bottom of brack-
et sharply with heavy hammer while prying with claw bar. Bushing
in torque rod will be damaged if excessive force is used with bar.
(3) REMOVE UPPER TORQUE ROD BRACKETS AT FRAME CROSS-
MEMBER. Remove upper torque rod brackets on front and rear of
crossmember by removing the six nuts, lock washers, and bolts from
each bracket.
Figure 220—Disconnecting Torque Rod
RA PD 64501
•402•
TM 9-801
212-213
c. Installation.
(1) INSTALL UPPER TORQUE ROD BRACKETS AT FRAME CROSS-
MEMBER (SPLIT TYPE AXLES). Brackets at frame crossmember for
upper torque rods for split type axles are identical and either can be
used at front .or rear of crossmember. Position brackets on frame
crossmember and insert the six attaching bolts, then install and
tighten lock washers and nuts.
(2) INSTALL UPPER TORQUE ROD BRACKETS AT FRAME CROSS-
MEMBER (BANJO TYPE AXLES). Brackets for upper torque rods for
banjo type axles are not interchangeable. Bracket attached to front
of crossmember must be installed with large end of taper toward left
side of frame. Bracket at rear of crossmember must also be installed
with large end of taper toward left side of frame. Position brackets
on frame crossmember and insert the six attaching bolts, then install
lock washers and nuts. Tighten nuts securely.
(3) INSTALL TORQUE RODS. Clean all grease and dirt from
torque rod pins, and see that bushings are clean and free from dirt.
The two lower torque rods on each axle should be installed before
top torque rods are installed. Force torque rod pin firmly into brack-
ets, using a block of wood and hammer, and then install lock washers
and nuts. Tighten securely. Lower and remove jacks.
213. SHOCK ABSORBERS.
a. Description. The shock absorbers, mounted on the outer side
of the frame over the front axle, are used at the front end only (figs.
213 and 215).
b. Removal. Remove nut and lock washer from eye bolt and lift
eye bolt out of bracket at spring. From inside frame, remove two
nuts, lock washers, and flat washers from shock absorber to frame
bolts and remove shock absorber, link, and eye assembly. Remove
nut from tapered stud at each end of link, remove eye bolt from link,
and remove link from shock absorber arm.
c. Installation. Install eye bolt on tapered stud in end of link
and install nut. Insert tapered stud in other end of link through
shock absorber arm and install nut. Tighten nuts firmly. Install two
bolts through shock absorber and frame, install two flat washers,
lock washers, and nuts on bolts and tighten firmly. Insert eye bolt
through bracket at spring, install nut and lock washer and tighten.
d. Check and Replenish Fluid. Clean shock absorber thorough-
ly, then remove filler plug and check level of fluid. If fluid is below
level of filler plug hole, additional fluid must be added. Remove nut
and lock washer attaching lower end of link to eye bolt and pull
tapered stud out of eye bolt. Fill shock absorber with fluid (Section
VIII) and replace filler plug. Move shock absorber arm up and
down several times to work fluid into piston cylinder. Remove filler
plug and add more fluid. To provide necessary air space in shock
absorber, allow fluid to drain down to the level of filler plug hole,
then install filler plug with new gasket.
•403•
TM 9-801
214
TRUCK, 2V,-TON, 6x6
Section XXXVIII
FRAME
214.
DESCRIPTION.
a. General. The frame is composed of steel channel section side
rails to which steel gussets, brackets, and crossmembers are riveted.
Other attachments such as fuel tank brackets, battery box, step
hangers, bumpers, and tire carrier are bolted in place.
b. Frame Alinemenl. Since the frame constitutes the "founda-
tion" of the entire vehicle, proper functioning of the vehicle and its
components is greatly dependent upon correct frame alinement. If
vehicle has been in a collision, or if there is any reason to suspect a
sprung, swayed, or otherwise misalined frame, report condition
immediately to proper authority.
c. Checking Procedure (fig. 221). The most convenient way to
check frame alinement, particularly on trucks equipped with a body,
is by marking on the floor all points from which measurements are
to be taken. This can be done by tacking or cementing pieces of
paper securely to the floor under each point of measurement. Start-
ing at "M," indicated on figure 221, drop a "plumb bob" from each
point. Satisfactory checking is dependent upon accuracy of marks
with relation to the frame. After each point shown has been marked
carefully and the vehicle moved away from the layout on the floor,
proceed as directed in the following steps.
(1) Check frame width at front and rear ends, using corre-
sponding marks on floor. If widths correspond to specifications
given, draw center line full length of vehicle halfway between marks
indicating front and rear widths. If frame width is not correct, lay
out center line as directed in step (4) below.
(2) With center line properly laid out, measure distance from it
to opposite points marked over entire length of chassis. If frame is in
proper alinement, measurements should not vary more than Va inch
at any point.
(3) To locate point at which frame is sprung, measure diagonals
marked A, B, and C. If diagonals in each pair are within l/a inch, that
part of frame included between points of measurements may be con-

sidered in alinement, and these diagonals should intersect within Va

Figure 221 —Frame Alinement Check Points
RA PD 64584
•404•
TM 9-801
214
FRAME
RADIATOR BRUSH GUARD, BUMPER, AND TOW HOOKS
SECTIONS OF TOOTHED LOCK WASHER MOUNTINGS
FRONT BUMPER (WITHOUT WINCH)
GUARD TO HOOD SIDE PANEL
GUARD TO RADIATOR SUPPORT
GUARD TO HOOD SIDE PANEL
GUARD TO RADIATOR SUPPORT
GUARD TO FENDER SKIRT
GUARD TO FENDER
G GUARD TO FENDER
Figure 222—Front Bumper,
FRONT BUMPER (WITH WINCH)
H FRONT TOW HOOK
I SPACER ('Via INCH)
J FRONT BUMPER (WITHOUT WINCH)
K FRONT BUMPER (WITH WINCH)
L SPACER ('5/16 INCH)
M SPACER C/4 INCH)
RA PD 332948
Tow Hooks, and Brush Guard
•405-
TM 9-801
214-215
inch of center line. Variations of more than l/a inch indicate misaline-
ment.
(4) If center line cannot be laid out from points at ends of frame,
it can be drawn through intersection of any one pair of diagonal
lines of equal length and center point of either end of frame. Center
line can also be laid out through points of intersection of any two
pairs of equal diagonals. If extreme front end or horn of frame is
damaged, center of front end of frame can be located from point
exactly midway between radiator support bolts.
(5) After it has been determined that frame is properly alined,
front axle alinement with frame can be checked as directed below
(fig. 221).
(a) Front axle is square with frame if ER equals EL, and DR
equals DL.
(b) Front axle has shifted sideways if ER is less than EL, and
DR less than DL, or vice versa.
(c) Front axle is bent, twisted, 'or shifted if ER is less than EL
and DR is greater than DL, or vice versa.
215. BUMPERS.
a. Rear Bumpers (fig. 224). Two rear bumpers (bumperettes)
are formed from steel plate and are attached to each frame rear
corner.
(1) REAR BUMPER REMOVAL. Remove eye bolt and hex-head
bolt attaching bumper to rear crossmember. Remove four bumper
to side rail bolts then remove bumper. Removal operations are same
for either right- or left-hand side.
(2) REAR BUMPER INSTALLATION. Position bumper on frame,
using drifts to aline holes. Install bolts, nuts, and washers, locating
eye-bolt as in figure 224, then tighten all nuts firmly. Installation is
same for either bumper.
b. Front Bumpers (fig. 222)> Front bumper, used on models
without winch, is a pressed steel channel, bolted to front ends of
frame side rails. For models with winch", a similar, but wider bumper
with a cutout in lower center section is attached to frame extension
with bolts and brackets.
(1) MODELS WITHOUT WINCH.

(a) Removal. Remove two bolts, nuts, and washers at front end
of each tow hook then remove short spacers from between bumper
gusset and side rail. Loosen each rear tow hook bolt nut and swing
tow hooks to rear. Remove two bolts, nuts, and washers from top
flange of bumper, remove two bolts, nuts, and washers from lower
flange of bumper, then lift bumper off side rails.
(b) Installation. Position bumper on side rails with the short
(n/i6 in.) spacers between side rails and bumper gussets, then swing
tow hooks into position. Install two bolts in each tow hook, then
install washers and nuts loosely. Install two bolts attaching bumper
upper flange to gusset, then install washers and nuts loosely. Install
two bumper lower flange to side rail bolts, and install washers and
nuts loosely. Tighten all nuts, including tow hook rear nuts, firmly.
•406•
TM 9-801
215-217
FRAME
(2) MODELS WITH WINCH.
(a) Removal. Unhook winch chain from tow hooks, then remove
two bolts, nuts, and washers at front of each tow hook. Loosen nut
on each rear tow hook bolt and swing tow hooks to rear. Remove
two bolts, nuts, and washers attaching bumper lower flange to bump-
er brackets, then remove four bumper upper flange to winch angle
bolts and washers. Lift bumper off frame extensions.
(b) Installation. Position bumper on frame extensions, swing
tow hooks forward, and aline holes with drifts. Loosely install four
bolts with washers through bumper upper flange into winch angle.
Install two bolts, nuts, and washers attaching bumper lower flange
to each bumper bracket, then tighten all bolts and nuts firmly, includ-
ing tow hook rear bolt nuts. Hook chain on tow hooks and engage
winch to pull chain taut
216. TOW HOOKS.
a. Front Tow Hooks (fig. 222). A right-hand and a left-hand
tow hook is bolted to front end of frame side rails on models without
winch, and to ends of frame extension on vehicles equipped with
winch.
(1) MODELS WITHOUT WINCH.
(a) Removal. Remove three bolts, nuts, and washers, and two
spacer attaching tow hook, then remove tow hook. Removal opera-
tion is same for either side.
(b) Installation. Position n/16-inch long spacer between side rail
and bumper gusset then position tow hook with !y16-inch long
spacer under hook rear bolt hole. Install three bolts, nuts, and wash-
ers and tighten nuts firmly. Installation is same for either side.
(2 ) MODELS WITH WINCH.
(a) Removal. Remove three bolts, nuts, and washers, and one
spacer attaching tow hook, then remove tow hook. Removal opera-
tion is applicable to either side.
(b) Installation. Position tow hook with J/4-inch long spacer
under hook rear bolt hole, then install three bolts, nuts, and wash-
ers, tightening nuts firmly. Operation is same for either side.
b. Rear Tow Hooks. Rear tow hooks are used only on vehicles
equipped with water tank or gasoline tank bodies. One tow hook is
bolted to side of each frame side rail near rear crossmember.
(1) REMOVAL. Remove three bolts, nuts, and washers, and one
spacer, then remove rear tow hook. Removal is same.for either side.
(2) INSTALLATION. Position tow hook on frame side rail with
spacer undef hook front bolt hole, install three bolts, nuts, and wash-
ers, and tighten nuts firmly. Installation operation is same for either
side.
217. BRUSH GUARD.
a. Brush guard, made of steel rods and bars integrally welded to
a rigid frame, protects radiator core, headlights, and blackout lights
from damage. Guard also serves to reinforce front end sheet metal
•407•
TM 9-801
217-218
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
by tiemg together fenders, radiator support, and hood side front
panels.
b. On vehicles equipped with radio suppression it is important
that attaching bolts be kept tightened to suppress radio interference
noise.
c. Brush Guard Removal. Remove three bolts, nuts, and wash-
ers attaching each fender to guard (F and G, fig. 222). Remove five
bolts, nuts, and washers attaching sheet metal to each side of brush
guard (A, C, and E, fig. 222). Remove four bolts, nuts, and washers
attaching radiator supports to each side of brush guard (B and D,
fig. 222), then pull brush guard forward and remove from vehicle.
d. Radio Noise Suppression. Figure 222 shows location of all
brush guard attaching bolts together with sectional views of bolts
installed. The internal-external toothed lock washers must be used
on each bolt, one under bolt head, the other under the nut, to pre-
vent electrical radiation.
e. Brush Guard Installation. Position brush guard on vehicle,
and aline bolt holes with drift. Install four bolts and nuts, and eight
internal-external toothed lock washers attaching each side of brush
guard to radiator supports (B and D, fig. 222). Install the 10 internal-
external toothed lock washers, and five bolts and nuts attaching
sheet metal to each side of brush guard (A, C, and E, fig. 222). In-
stall six internal-external toothed lock washers, and three nuts and
bolts attaching each fender to brush guard (F and G, fig. 222).
Tighten all mounting nuts firmly.
218. SPARE WHEEL CARRIERS.
a. Three types of wheel carriers are used; the type used being
dependent on wheelbase and body. The 164-inch wheelbase (model
CCKW-353) with cargo or dump body has single wheel carrier
mounted on left side rail back of cab and under cargo body (fig.
223). The 145-inch wheelbase (model CCKW-352) with cargo body
mounts two wheels and tires vertically between cab and body. Fuel
tank and tank support forms the base for this carrier (fig. 223). The
164-inch wheelbase (model CCKW-353) with tank bodies carries
a single wheel and tire in vertical position between cab and tank
(fig. 223).
b. Long-wheelbase—Cargo Body.
(1) SPARE WHEEL CARRIER REMOVAL (fig. 223). Remove lock,
then remove nut from carrier to frame stud. Lift latch handle and
swing wheel down, remove two spare wheel hub nuts, then remove
wheel. Remove the six bolts, nuts, and washers attaching carrier
brackets to frame, then remove carrier from frame.
(2) SPARE WHEEL CARRIER INSTALLATION (fig. 223). Position
carrier assembly on frame and aline bolt holes with drifts. Install six
mounting bolts, nuts, and washers, then tighten nuts firmly. Position
spare wheel over two studs, install two hub nuts, and tighten nuts
firmly. Lift wheel to horizontal position and engage latch. Install stud
nut and tighten firmly, then install lock.
•408•
TM 9-801
218
FRAME
TIRE CARRIER (164-INCH WHEEL BASE WITH CARGO OR DUMP BODIES)
TIRE CARRIER (164.INCH WHEELBASE WITH TANK BODIES)
Figure 223—Spare Wheel Carriers
RA PD 332994
•409•
TM 9-801
218-219
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
c. Short-wheelbase—Cargo Body.
(1) SPARE WHEEL CARRIER REMOVAL (fig. 223). NOTE: Spare
wheel carrier support encloses the fuel tank which may be removed
from carrier support either before or after removalôf carrier from
vehicle. If necessary to remove fuel tank, refer to paragraph 100 for
removal. Remove cargo racks from body, remove locks from car-
rier, then remove clamp nuts from clamp bolts. Swing clamps down,
remove nuts from wheel hubs, then lift wheels from carrier. Remove
both drain plugs from tank and drain tank completely. Remove 11
bolts, nuts, and washers attaching carrier to frame side rails. Dis-
connect fuel gage wire at tank, then unscrew fuel line nut at tank
and disconnect fuel line. Withdraw gage,wire and fuel line from
tire carrier support, shifting tank and carrier forward on side rails,
if necessary for clearance. Lift carrier and tank unit straight up to
remove from vehicle.
carrier on frame side rails and connect fuel gage wire and fuel line,
shifting carrier forward or back as necessary to make connections.
Aline mounting bolt holes, install 11 carrier to frame bolts, nuts, and
washers, and then tighten nuts firmly. Position wheels in carrier and
install one nut at hub of each wheel. Swing clamp up against tires,
install and tighten clamp nuts on clamp bolts, then install locks. In-
stall drain plugs, then install cargo racks on body.
d. Long-wheelbase—Tank Bodies.
(1) SPARE WHEEL CARRIER REMOVAL (fig. 223). Remove spare
wheel lock, remove clamp nut and swing clamp down, then remove
spare wheel. Remove eight bolts, nuts, and washers attaching carrier
to frame side rails and lift carrier off chassis.
carrier on vehicle and aline mounting bolt holes with drifts. Install
eight carrier to frame bolts, nuts, and washers, and tighten nuts
firmly. Position wheel and tire in carrier and swing clamp up against
tire. Install and tighten clamp nut, then install lock.
219. PINTLE HOOK.
a. Pintle hook is mounted at center of rear crossmember with
front end of pintle supported by a steel channel. A heavy coil spring

in the assembly serves to absorb shocks in starting and towing.

Keep pintle shaft nut tight enough to eliminate rattles and lubricate
moving parts periodically with seasonal grade engine oil. Pintle
hooks are not used on vehicles equipped with water or gasoline tank
bodies.
b. Pintle Hook Removal (fig. 224). Remove six bolts, nuts, and
washers attaching pintle hook front support to braces. Remove cotter
pin and remove nut from pintle shaft. Slide support, spring, and
sleeves from pintle shaft and pull shaft out through rear cross-
member.
c. Pintle Hook Installation (fig. 224). Insert pintle shaft
through rear crossmember and assemble spring and sleeves on shaft
•410•
TM 9-801
FRAME
219
REAR BUMPER AND PINTLE HOOK
ADJUSTING PINTLE HOOK SPRING TENSION
AB
EXPLODED VIEW OF PINTLE HOOK
A NUT
B WASHER
C BOLT
D FRONT SUPPORT
E BRACE
F SLEEVE
6 SPRING
H HOOK
I REAR CROSSMEMBER
J LOCK
K LATCH
L SCREW
M PIN
N CHAIN
O SUPPORT
P BUMPER TO SIDE RAIL BOLT
Q BUMPER TO CROSSMEMBER BOLT
R EYE BOLT
S SUPPORT TO BRACE BOLT
T BUMPER
Figure 224—Pintle Haok and Rear Bumper
RA PD 332947
•411•
TM 9-801
219-221
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
with sleeves positioned as in figure 224. Reversing either sleeve will
make assembly too long or too short to properly install on vehicle;
reversing both sleeves will result in extending hook 1% inches back
from rear crossmember. Place pintle support over shaft against
sleeve shoulder, install washer, and start pintle shaft nut. Insert
suitable bar through pintle hook eye to prevent hook turning while
tightening nut. Tighten shaft nut until support fits up against frame
brace, then attach support to brace with six bolts, nuts, and wash-
ers. Adjust nut to provide just enough spring tension to prevent
rattle, then secure nut with new cotter pin.
Section XXXIX
CAB AND ASSOCIATED PARTS
220. GENERAL.
a. Cab consists of an open top structure enclosing driver's com-
partment. The cab, of all steel construction, consists of cowl and
dash panel, side panels, rear panel, seat risers, and floor pan bolted
together into a unit assembly. Weather protection is provided by
windshield, top deck, rear curtain, and hinged side curtains. Cab is
equipped with an inside and an outside rear view mirror (head—
GM-2165013), two windshield wipers, two rifle holders, and includes
provision for gun mount ring.
221. CAB MOUNTINGS.
a. Description. Three-point type mounting, shown in figure
225, is used to attach the cab to the chassis frame. Both front corners
of the cab are flexibly mounted by means of a mounting cushion
between the cab and frame mounting bracket. Rear mounting con-
sists of a single through bolt and cushions at rear center of the cab
which fastens the cab to the frame cross channel. A heavy cushion
spring is mounted between cab and frame cross channel at each side
of the rear center mounting bolt to prevent excessive rocking move-
ment of the cab.
b. Mounting Adjustment. Any change in the position of the
cab in relation to the chassis frame may cause steering gear to bind
(par. 204) and may change the clearance between radiator and fan
(par. 109). Steering gear and cab mounting tightening procedures
must be performed together and procedure must be followed in

sequence given if correct mounting is to be obtained.

(1) LOOSEN STEERING COLUMN BRACKET. Loosen two nuts at-
taching steering column bracket at lower edge of dash panel.
•412•
TM 9-801
221
(2) LOOSEN STEERING GEAR FRAME MOUNTING BOLTS. Loosen,
but do not remove, four bolt nuts attaching steering gear housing
flange to frame left side rail.
(3) ADJUST CAB MOUNTINGS. Loosen all three cab mounting
bolts (fig. 225). Inspect mountings and replace any damaged parts
as described in subparagraphs c and tl below. Move cab into correct
position to locate squarely at all three mounting points on chassis.
Tighten adjusting nut and lock nut on each of three mounting bolts,
being sure not to change position of cab. Do not use lubricant on
bolts and nuts.
(4) CHECK AND ADJUST RADIATOR MOUNTINGS AND CLEARANCE.
Check radiator to fan clearance and adjust radiator mountings if
necessary, as described in paragraph 109.
AB CDE FGHI
JKCLMG
CENTER REAR MOUNTING
RIGHT FRONT MOUNTING
A STEEL SPACER
B LEFT FRONT MOUNTING BOLT
C LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT
MOUNTING CUSHION
D LEFT FRONT CORNER OF CAB
E FRAME LEFT SIDE RAIL
F CAB REAR FLOOR
G CENTER REAR AND RIGHT FRONT
MOUNTING CUSHION
H STEEL WASHER
I CENTER REAR MOUNTING BOLT
J FRAME RIGHT SIDE RAIL
K RIGHT FRONT CORNER OF CAB
L RIGHT FRONT MOUNTING BOLT
M STEEL WASHER
N ADJUSTING NUT
O LOCK NUT
P RIGHT FRONT FRAME BRACKET
Q FRAME CROSS CHANNEL

R CENTER REAR MOUNTING

CUSHION
S CENTER REAR STEEL SPACER
T LEFT FRONT FRAME BRACKET
U REAR MOUNTING SPRING BOLTS
V REAR MOUNTING SPRING
Figure 225—Cab Three-Point Mounting
RA PD 64723
•413•
TM 9-801
221
(5) ADJUST STEERING GEAR AND TIGHTEN MOUNTINGS. Check
steering gear adjustments and tighten steering gear mountings, as
described in paragraph 204. Tighten two U-bolt nuts attaching
steering column to lower edge of dash panel. Tighten four steering
gear housing flange to frame side rail bolts, tightening upper front or
pivot bolt last. Turn steering wheel to extreme right and left posi-
tions, and if any binding is evident, repeat above operations so that
steering gear and cab mountings can be tightened without causing
binding.
c. Mounting Removal. Removal operations cover only removal
of the three cab mounting bolts, cushions, and spacers.
(1) REMOVE CAB LEFT FRONT MOUNTING BOLT. Pry up access
hole button plug from left side of cab floor. Remove lock nut, adjust-
ing nut, and steel spacer from end of bolt accessible under cab skirt
above left-hand running board. From inside cab, remove mounting
bolt and steel spacer at access hole in cab floor. Raise corner of cab
to relieve pressure on mounting cushion and withdraw cushion from
between cab and frame bracket.
(2) REMOVE CAB RIGHT FRONT MOUNTING BOLT. Pry up access
hole button plug from right side of cab floor. Remove lock nut, ad-
justing nut, washer, and mounting cushion from end of bolt accessible
under cab skirt above right-hand running board. From inside cab,
remove bolt, washer, and mounting cushion at access hole in cab
floor. Raise corner of cab to relieve pressure on mounting cushion
and withdraw cushion from between cab and frame bracket.
(3) REMOVE CAB REAR CENTER MOUNTING BOLT. From under-
neath vehicle at frame cross channel, remove lock nut, adjusting nut,
washer, and mounting cushion from end of bolt. Remove two nuts,
washers, and bolts attaching one mounting spring to frame cross
channel. From inside cab, remove rear center mounting bolt, washer,
and mounting cushion. Raise the rear corner of cab at which spring
bolts were removed and withdraw mounting cushion and steel spacer.
il. Mounting Installation.
(1) INSTALL CAB REAR CENTER MOUNTING BOLT. Raise the
rear corner of cab at which spring bolts were removed and position
mounting cushion and steel spacer (fig. 225) and aline holes. Lower
cab corner so cab rests on spacer above cushion. Install washer and
mounting cushion on bolt, then insert bolt through cab floor, steel
spacer, mounting cushion, and frame cross channel. Install two bolts,
nuts, and washers through mounting spring and frame cross channel.
Install mounting cushion, washer, and adjusting nut on end of rear
mounting bolt, tightening nut firmly, then install and tighten lock nut.
(2) INSTALL CAB RIGHT FRONT MOUNTING BOLT. Raise right
front corner of cab and insert mounting cushion between cab and
frame mounting bracket, aline holes in cab, cushion, and bracket,
then lower corner of cab. Install flat washer and cushion on mounting
bolt and insert bolt through cab, mounting cushion, and frame
bracket from inside cab. Install mounting cushion, flat washer, and
adjusting nut on mounting bolt from under cab skirt above right
•414•
TM 9-801
221-222
running board. Tighten nut firmly, install lock nut and tighten. Install
button plug in cab floor.
(3) INSTALL CAB LEFT FRONT MOUNTING BOLT. Raise left
front corner of cab, insert mounting cushion between cab and fsame
bracket, aline holes, then lower cab. Install steel spacer on bolt and
insert bolt through cab, cushion, and frame bracket from inside of
cab. Install steel spacer and adjusting nut from under cab skirt
above left-hand running board. Tighten nut firmly and install and
tighten lock nut. Install button plug in cab floor.
222. WINDSHIELD.
a. Description. Windshield consists of the windshield frame and
glass assembly hinged to windshield tubular support frame at the
top edge by interlocking metal strips. Tubular support frame pivots
at the lower corners on pins in brackets, bolted to the cab cowl at
the front corners of the driver's compartment.
b. Windshield Removal (fig. 226). Windshield frame assembly
can be removed without loosening or removing tubular support
frame.
(1) DISCONNECT ADJUSTING ARMS AT BRACKETS. Loosen ad-
justing arm (upper) knobs, open windshield, then tighten knobs to
hold windshield tilted open. Remove two adjusting arm to bracket
screws and disengage arms from brackets.
(2) REMOVE WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTORS. Remove wiper
motors as described in paragraph 223.
(3) REMOVE WINDSHIELD FRAME AND GLASS ASSEMBLY. Bend
open one end of tubular frame hinge strip with screw driver (fig.
226). Open windshield wide and slide frame and glass assembly end-
wise sufficiently to completely disengage interlocking hinge strips.
RA PD 64733
Figure 226—Windshield Frame and Glass Removal
•415•
TM 9-801
222-223
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
c. Windshield Installation.
(1) HINGE WINDSHIELD TO FRAME. Hold windshield frame and
glass in horizontal position and engage end of strip with opened end
of hinge strip on tubular support frame. Slide frame and glass to
proper position and close windshield. Bend opened end of tubular
frame hinge strip to lock windshield in place laterally.
(2) CONNECT ADJUSTING ARMS. Open windshield sufficiently
to position adjusting arms on windshield brackets. Install screw and
tighten to connect each arm to bracket.
(3) INSTALL WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTORS. Install both wiper
motors as described in paragraph 223.
223. WINDSHIELD WIPERS.
a. Description. Two identical vacuum operated windshield wip-
ers are mounted at top of the left and right sections of the wind-
shield. Wipers are connected to engine manifold by means of tubing
and hose. Each wiper consists of a wiper motor, arm, and blade.
b. Windshield Wiper Removal (fig. 227). Procedure is same
for either motor.
(1) DISCONNECT HOSE. Pull vacuum line hose loose from wiper
motor.
(2) REMOVE BLADE AND ARM. Remove nut [(GM-3661579)
G501-03-14861] from end of wiper motor shaft and pull wiper arm
(GM-2198557) and blade (GM-2198558) as an assembly from
motor shaft.
(3) REMOVE WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR. At front side of wind-
shield, remove the two screws attaching motor [(GM-2180781)
WINDSHIELD WIPER MOUNTED
A WINDSHIELD CROSSPIECE
B WIPER MOTOR
C WIPER ARM
D WIPER BLADE
E MOUNTING SCREWS
RA PD 332942
figure 227—Windshield Wiper Mounted and Support Clearance
WIPER AND TUBULAR FRAME CLEARANCE
F ARM NUT
G VACUUM HOSE
H CLEARANCE
I TUBULAR FRAME
•416•
TM 9-801
223-224
G501-02-95848] to windshield frame. Pull motor loose from rear
of windshield.
c. Windshield Wiper Installation (fig. 227). Procedure is the
same for either motor.
(1) INSTALL WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR. Insert motor shaft
through hole in windshield frame from rear side of windshield. In-
stall two screws from front side of windshield to attach motor to
windshield frame.
(2) CHECK MOTOR CLEARANCE. With windshield fully closed
there should be some clearance between windshield wiper motor and
the windshield tubular frame as shown in figure 227. If this clear-
ance is not present, correct as follows:
(a) Remove wiper motor as directed in subparagraph b (3)
above.
(b) Redrill wiper shaft hole in windshield frame, using a %$-
inch diameter drill or file or ream out original hole. Hole must be
straight through windshield to permit installation of motor without
distortion of shaft and sleeve.
(c) Reinstall motor as described in step (1) above, and recheck
for clearance.
(3) INSTALL WIPER ARM AND BLADE. Install wiper arm and
blade as an assembly on end of motor shaft, then install and tighten
shaft to arm nut. Connect vacuum line hose to wiper motor.
d. Wiper Blade Replacement. Procedure is the same for either
blade.
(1) REMOVE BLADE. Hold lower end of wiper arm away from
windshield with one hand; with the other, pull lower end of blade
outward and upward until blade is in contact with front of arm. Pull
end of blade farthest from motor shaft away from motor shaft to
remove blade from arm.
(2) INSTALL BLADE. With hook on blade pointing to motor
shaft, and with metal part of blade in contact with forward side of
arm, push blade toward shaft. Pull lower end of arm away from
•windshield with one hand; with the other hand, pull end closest to
motor shaft outward and downward to engage blade hook in slot in
arm.
224. SEATS (fig. 228).

a. Description. Cab seats consist of individual seats for the
driver and the assistant driver. The seats are similar and are mount-
ed on a seat riser which is bolted to the cab floor. Seat backs are
hinged to lay forward on seats, while seats can also be tilted up
against seat backs. A sector arm, attached to right-hand seat only,
permits locking seat in upright position. Raising bottom of driver's
seat affords access to stowage compartment under seat.
b. Seat Removal.
(1) REMOVE SEAT CUSHIONS. Pull bottom of seat back cushion
forward, then tilt seat back down. Slide cushion to side to disengage
736603 O - 47 - 27 '417*
TM 9-801
224
SEAT BACK CUSHION]
•SEAT CUSHIOKT
SEATS MOUNTED IN CAB
SEAT FRAME
RA PD 332973
Figure 228—Seats Installed and Seat Frame Remaved
bead in back cushion from metal channel in seat back. Tilt seat
bottom up against seat back, then turn seat spring latch to side by
tapping with hammer. Procedure is same for either seat.
(2) DISCONNECT SECTOR ARM (RIGHT-HAND SEAT ONLY). Tilt
seat bottom up, then remove bo'lt, nut, and washers attaching sector
arm to seat bottom.
(3) REMOVE SEAT FRAME. With seat bottom raised, remove
three nuts and washers attaching mounting bracket on each side of
seat to seat risers. Lift seat frame assembly from cab. Procedure is
same for either seat.
c. Seat Installation.
(1) INSTALL SEAT FRAME. NOTE: Seat having sector arm
mounting lug on underside of seat bottom is the right-hand seat. Po-
sition seat frame on seat riser with mounting bracket studs through
holes in seat riser. Install three washers and nuts on mounting studs
at each end of seat, and tighten nuts firmly. Procedure is same for
either seat.
(2) CONNECT SECTOR ARM (RIGHT-HAND SEAT ONLY). Tilt
seat bottom up, then attach sector arm to lug on seat bottom with
bolt, nut, and washers.
(3) INSTALL SEAT CUSHIONS. Position seat cushion on seat bot-
tom frame, then raise seat bottom. Engage seat spring clips with seat
bottom frame by tapping into position with hammer. Tilt seat back
forward and engage end of bead on seat back cushion with end of
metal channel on top of seat back. Slide cushion into place to com-
pletely engage bead.
•418•
TM 9-801
225-226
Section XL
SHEET METAL
223. ENGINE HOOD.
a. Engine hood consists of a formed and reinforced metal panel
over top of engine. Hood is attached to cowl with two hinges and
fastened in closed position at front end by two spring type catches.
b. Hood Removal.
(1) RELEASE CATCHES AND DISCONNECT HOOD SUPPORT. Lift
up spring type catch at each front corner of hood and disengage
from hood clip. Raise engine hood and remove the two bolts, nuts,
and washers attaching support bracket to hood.
(2) DISCONNECT RADIO SUPPRESSION BOND STRAPS. Remove
bolt and washers attaching two bond straps to underside of hood.
(3) REMOVE HINGE BOLTS AND HOOD. Close hood, unscrew two
hinge bolts from hinges, then lift off hood.
c. Hood Installation.
(1) POSITION HOOD AND INSTALL HINGE BOLTS. Position hood
over engine, aline hinges, and install two hinge bolts.
(2) CONNECT HOOD SUPPORT. Raise engine hood, position hood
support bracket to underside of hood, then install two bolts, washers,
and nuts, tightening nuts firmly.
(3) CONNECT RADIO SUPPRESSION BOND STRAPS. Connect two
bond straps to underside of hood, using bolt and two internal-external
toothed lock washers on each strap. Use one washer under head of
bolt and the other between strap and hood. Close hood and pull up
on spring type catch at each front corner of hood, engaging catch in
clip attached to hood.
226. HOOD SIDE PANELS.
a. Hood side panel assembly consists of a front and rear panel at
each side of engine above fender, bolted together through a rein-
forcing channel spot welded to front panel.
b. Hood Side Panel Removal (fig. 229).
(1) REMOVE HOOD REAR SIDE PANEL. Remove three bolts at-
taching rear side panel to front side panel. Remove bolt, nut, and
washers attaching radio suppression bond strap to upper rear corner
of panel. Pry open clip at upper rear corner of panel. Lift panel
straight up to remove from vehicle. Procedure is same for either side.

(2) REMOVE HOOD FRONT SIDE PANEL. Remove three bolts,

nuts, and washers attaching panel to brush guard and remove bolt,
nut, and washers attaching panel reinforcement to fender skirt. Re-
move bolt, nut, and washers attaching panel to radiator brace. Slide
panel to rear, then lift straight up to remove from vehicle. Procedure
is same for either side.
c. Hood Side Panel Installation (fig. 229).
(1) INSTALL HOOD FRONT SIDE PANEL. Position panel on ve-
hicle with lower edge engaged in clip on fender skirt. Aline bolt
•419•
TM 9-801
226
ABC
LEFT FRONT FENDER AND ENGINE CLOSURE PANELS
IKLMGD
RIGHT FRONT FENDER AND SKIRT
A HOOD REAR SIDE PANEL
B REINFORCEMENT CHANNEL
C HOOD FRONT SIDE PANEL
D HEAD LIGHT
E BLACKOUT MARKER LIGHT
F BLACKOUT DRIVING LIGHT
G FRONT FENDER
Figure 229—Fender, Skirt, and Hood Panels
0EF
H WIRING JUNCTION BLOCK
I FRONT FENDER SKIRT
J BRUSH GUARD
K BRAKE HOSE SPRING
L BOND STRAP
M FENDER REINFORCEMENT
RA PD 332897
•420•
TM 9-801
226-227
SHEET METAL
holes and install three bolts and nuts and six internal-external
toothed lock washers attaching panel to brush guard. Use one
washer under head of bolt and another under nut. Install one bolt
and nut and two internal-external toothed lock Washers attaching
panel reinforcement to skirt, using one washer under bolt head and
the other under the nut. Install one bolt and nut, and two internal-
external toothed lock washers attaching panel to radiator brace, using
one washer under bolt head and the other washer under the nut.
(2) INSTALL HOOD REAR SIDE PANEL. Position panel with lower
edge engaged in fender skirt clips and aline bolt holes. Install three
bolts and internal-external toothed lock washers attaching panel to
front panel reinforcement, with washers under bolt heads Connect
radio suppression bond strap to upper rear corner of panel with one
bolt and nut and three internal-external toothed lock washers. Use
one washer under bolt head, one washer between strap and panel,
and the other washer between strap and nut. Bend clip together
with hammer. Procedure is same for either side.
227. FENDERS AND SKIRTS.
a. Front fender and skirt, consisting of fender and louvred metal
panel at side of engine, are bolted together. Headlights and blackout
lights are mounted on the front end of fenders. While either fender
or skirt can be removed and replaced without removal of the other
part, replacement is facilitated by removal of fender and skirt as an
assembly.
b. Fender and Skirt Removal (fig. 229). Operations are same
for either fender except as otherwise noted in text.
(1) DISCONNECT WIRING. Raise engine hood. Disconnect wiring
harness at inside of fender skirt by loosening screws attaching har-
ness to junction block and disconnecting blackout marker light wire
at connector. Disengage wiring harness from all clips mounted on
fender skirt.
(2) UNHOOK BRAKE HOSE SPRING AND DISCONNECT BOND
STRAP. Unhook brake hose spring from fender skirt. Remove nut,
washers, and bolt attaching radio suppression bond strap to lower
edge of fender skirt.
(3) REMOVE CAP SCREWS AND BOLTS. Remove two cap screws
and washers attaching fender to cowl at underside of fender. Remove

bolt, nut, and washers attaching fender to cowl bracket, then remove
anti-squeak from between fender and cowl. Remove bolt and washer
attaching lower rear corner of fender skirt to cowl.
(4) REMOVE FENDER TO RUNNING BOARD BOLTS. Remove five
bolts, nuts, and washers attaching fender to running board, then
remove anti-squeak from between running board and fender.
(5) REMOVE FENDER TO BRUSH GUARD BOLTS. Remove three
bolts, nuts, and washers attaching fender to brush guard.
(6) DISCONNECT WIRING AND DISASSEMBLE (fig. 230). Remove
fender and skirt assembly from vehicle. Disconnect light wires from
junction block at inner side of fender skirt. Loosen wire grommets
•421•
TM 9-801
227
at holes in fender skirt and pull wires through skirt. Remove the six
bolts, washers, and nuts attaching fender skirt to fenders. If lights are
to be removed, refer to paragraphs 121, 122, and 123.
c. Fender and Skirl Installation (figs. 229 and 230). Installa-
tion operations are same for either fender except as noted in text.
Install lights as directed in paragraphs 121, 122, and 123.
(1) ASSEMBLE FENDER AND SKIRT. Assemble fender skirt to
fender with six bolts and nuts and 12 internal-external toothed lock
washers, omitting bolt in third hole from front. On left front fender
only, install a wiring harness clip on fourth and sixth bolt from front,
using an additional internal-external toothed lock washer between
clip and skirt. Thread light wiring through holes in skirt and fit grom-
mets in place.
(2) POSITION FENDER AND SKIRT AND INSTALL BOLTS. Position
fender and skirt assembly on vehicle, with lower edge of hood side
panels engaged in fender skirt clips. Install anti-squeak between
fender and cowl, then install two cap screws and washers attaching
fender to cowl. Install bolt with washer and nut through fender and
cowl bracket. Install cap screw with internal-external toothed lock
washer under head attaching lower rear corner of fender skirt to
cowl.
LEFT SIDE CONNECTIONS
A GENERATOR ARMATURE
B GENERATOR GROUND
C GENERATOR FIELD
D BLACKOUT DRIVE LIGHT
E BLACKOUT MARKER
RIGHT SIDE CONNECTIONS
F CONDENSER
G HEADLIGHT LOW BEAM
H HEADLIGHT HIGH BEAM
I HEADLIGHT GROUND
J HORN
RA PD 332932
Figure 230—Fender Skirt Wiring Junction Blocks
•422•
TM 9-801
227-228
SHEET METAL
(3) BOLT FENDER TO BRUSH GUARD. Install three bolts and nuts
and six internal-external toothed lock washers attaching fender to
brush guard. Use washers under bolt heads and under nuts.
(4) ATTACH FENDER TO RUNNING BOARD. Position anti-squeak
between fender and running board and install 5 bolts, nuts and
lock washers, and 10 flat washers attaching fender to running board.
(5) CONNECT BRAKE HOSE SPRING AND BOND STRAP. Hook
brake hose spring in fender skirt. Connect radio suppression bond
strap to lower edge of fender skirt with bolt, nut, and three internal-
external toothed lock washers. Position washers under bolt head,
under nut, and between bond strap and skirt.
(6) CONNECT WIRING (fig. 230). Connect wiring harness at
junction block at inner side of fender skirt. Refer to figure 113 or
114 for wire identification and proper connections. Connect blackout
marker light wire at connector. Attach wiring harness to fender skirt
clips and close engine hood.
228. RUNNING BOARDS AND STEP HANGERS.
a. Running Board and Hanger Removal.
(1) REMOVE RUNNING BOARD. Remove five bolts, nuts, and
washers attaching fender to running board, and remove fender to
running board anti-squeak. Remove four running board to step
hanger bolts, nuts, and washers. Lift running board off step hangers
and remove wood spacer from front step hanger. Procedure is same
for either side.
(2) REMOVE REAR STEP HANGER (fig. 231). Remove nut and
washers attaching suppression bond strap to upper step hanger bolt
and remove strap. Remove three bolts, nuts, and washers attaching
hanger to frame and remove hanger. Procedure is same for either
rear hanger.
(3) REMOVE RIGHT FRONT STEP HANGER. Remove three bolts,
nuts, and washers, then remove hanger and frame spacer.
(4) REMOVE LEFT FRONT STEP HANGER (fig. 231). Hanger
mounting cap screws are threaded into a tapping plate not otherwise
attached to frame side rail. Following procedure must be observed
to prevent dislodging plate.
(a) Remove both lower cap screws and washers, then loosen
upper cap screw sufficiently to swing hanger to the rear.

(b) Install cap screw in one of the lower holes and tighten
firmly.
(c) Remove upper cap screw, hanger, and frame spacer. Cap
screw in lower hole holds tapping plate in place.
b. Running Board and Hanger Installation.
(1) INSTALL LEFT FRONT STEP HANGER (fig. 231). Position
spacer and hanger to side rail and install upper bolt and washer
finger-tight (fig. 231). Remove lower bolt holding tapping plate and
swing spacer and hanger into position. Install two lower bolts and
washers, making sure hole in spacer is alined with front lower hole
in hanger. Tighten all bolts firmly.
(2) INSTALL RIGHT FRONT STEP HANGER. Position hanger and
•423•
TM 9-801
228-229
LEFT-HAND FRONT STEP HANGER
A STEP HANGER
B CAP SCREW
C SPACER
D FRAME SIDE RAIL
E BOND STRAP
REAR STEP HANGER
F CAB
O BOLT
H NUT
I TOOTHED LOCK WASHER
J FLAT WASHER
Figure 231—Step Hanger Installation
RA PD 333004
spacer on frame side rail with holes in spacer alined with upper and
front lower holes in hanger. Install three bolts, nuts, and washers,
tightening nuts firmly.
(3) INSTALL REAR STEP HANGER (fig. 231). Install an internal-
external toothed lock washer on a long bolt, position hanger to frame,
then install bolt from inside frame through upper hole of hanger.
Install internal-external toothed lock washer and nut . Install two
short bolts, nuts, and washers in lower holes in right rear hanger.
(In left rear hanger, install a short bolt in rear lower hole and a long
bolt in front lower hole.) Install internal-external toothed lock wash-
er on upper bolt, then install bond strap, internal-external toothed
washer, flat washer, and nut.
(4) INSTALL RUNNING BOARD. Position wood spacer on front
step hanger, then position running board on hangers. Install two
bolts, nuts, and washers to attach running board to each hanger,
using longer bolts through front hangers. Position anti-squeak be-
tween running board and fender, and install five bolts, nuts, and
lock washers, and 10 flat washers to attach rear end of fender to
running board.
Section XLI
CARGO AND DUMP BODIES
229. GENERAL.
a. Cargo body and cargo dump body, while of similar size and
appearance, differ in construction. Cargo body is of metal-reinforced
•424•
TM 9-801
229-230
wooden construction, whereas dump body is of all-steel construction.
b. Body mountings, in general, include hold down bolts and clips
attaching body longitudinal sills to chassis frame side rails, a locat-
ing bolt through rear end of each body longitudinal sill and frame
side rail, and flexible mountings at front end of body (144-inch cargo
body only).
230. CARGO BODY.
a. General. Two lengths of cargo bodies are used—the 108-inch
body on the 145-inch wheelbase model (CCKW-352), and the 144-
inch body on the 164-inch wheelbase model (CCKW-353). The 108-
inch and the 144-inch bodies are similar, and comprise wooden strips,
slats, and panels bolted together and reinforced by steel strips,
angles, and brackets. Cargo bodies are equipped with end curtains
and tarpaulin, removable tarpaulin bows, and cargo racks.
b. Wood Cargo Body Mountings. The 108-inch body (CCKW-
352—145-inch wheelbase) uses two locating bolts and six mountings
of any of the three types shown in figure 232. The 144-inch body
BOLT AND NUT
TYPE MOUNTING
UUJ
TAPPED PLATE
TYPE MOUNTING
A MOUNTING BOLT NUT AND LOCK WASHER
B UPPER CLIP PLATE (NOT TAPPED)
C UPPER CLIP PLATE (TAPPED)
D BODY LONGITUDINAL SILL
E MOUNTING BOLT
F WOOD FILLER BLOCK
G FRAME SIDE RAIL
H LOWER CLIP PLATE
I BRACKET TO SILL BOLT
J BODY LOCATING BRACKET
K BODY LOCATING BOLT
L U-BOLT
M U-BOLT PLATE
RA PD 332763
Figure 232—Sectional Views of Wood Cargo Body Mountings

•425*
TM 9-801
230
(CCKW-353—164-inch wheelbase) uses two locating bolts, four
mountings of any of the types shown in figure 232, and two flexible
mountings (fig. 233).
(1) BOLT AND NUT TYPE MOUNTING REMOVAL (fig. 232). Re-
move two nuts, lock washers, and clip plate from upper end of two
mounting bolts. Remove lower clip plate and bolts, then remove
wood filler block from frame side rail.
(2) BOLT AND NUT TYPE MOUNTING INSTALLATION (fig. 232).
Fit wood filler block in frame side rail. Assemble two clips and one
lock washer on one bolt, and start nut on threads. Position assembly
of bolt and clips on sill and frame, with bolt in groove in filler block
and nut at top. Install second mounting bolt through clips, then
install lock washer and nut. Tighten nuts firmly and with equal
tension.
A BODY FLOOR
B BODY FRONT CROSS SILL
C BODY GUIDE ANGLE
D MOUNTING BOLT COTTER PIN
E MOUNTING BOLT NUT
F MOUNTING BOLT WASHER
G MOUNTING BOLT TENSION
SPRING
H MOUNTING SUPPORT PLATE
I SPACER BLOCK REINFORCEMENT
J WOOD SPACER BLOCK
K MOUNTING BOLT
L FRAME SIDE RAIL BRACKET
M FRAME LEFT SIDE RAIL
N SILL BRACKET
RA PD 316828
Figure 233—Sectional View of Body Front Corner Flexible
Mounting (CCKW-353 Only)
•426•
TM 9-801
230
(3) TAPPED PLATE TYPE MOUNTING REMOVAL (fig. 232). Un-
screw two bolts from tapped upper clip plate, remove bolts, lock
washers, and lower clip plate, then remove tapped plate. Remove
(4) TAPPED PLATE TYPE MOUNTING INSTALLATION (fig. 232).
Position wood filler block in frame side rail. Install two mounting
bolts with lock washers through holes in lower clip plate, and posi-
tion around frame side rail and body sill. Place tapped plate on body
sill, threading bolts into tapped holes in plate. Tighten bolts firmly
and with equal tension.
(5) U-BOLT TYPE MOUNTING REMOVAL (fig. 232). Remove two
nuts and lock washers, and lower clip plate from U-bolt. Remove U-
bolt and U-bolt plate from body sill, then remove wood filler block
from frame side rail.
(6) U-BOLT TYPE MOUNTING INSTALLATION (fig. 232). Posi-
tion wood filler block in frame side rail, then position U-bolt and
U-bolt plate over body longitudinal sill with inner leg of U-bolt in
groove in filler block. Position clip plate on U-bolt, then install two
nuts and lock washers, tightening nuts firmly and with equal tension.
(7) BODY LOCATING BOLT REMOVAL (fig. 232). At rear end of
body longitudinal sill, unscrew bolt from underside of frame while
holding nut with wrench. Remove bolt, nut, and lock washer, but do
not remove bolts attaching locating bracket to body sill.
(8) BODY LOCATING BOLT INSTALLATION (fig. 232). Aline hole
in body locating bracket with hole in upper flange of frame side
rail, using drift. Install bolt from underside of side rail flange, install
lock washer and nut, then tighten bolt into nut while holding nut
with wrench.
(9) FLEXIBLE FRONT MOUNTING BOLT REMOVAL (fig. 233).
Remove cotter pin, nut, and flat washer from upper end of mounting
bolt above tension spring. Remove mounting bolt and tension spring.
(10) FLEXIBLE FRONT MOUNTING BOLT INSTALLATION (fig.
233). Install long mounting bolt through frame bracket, wood spacer
block, reinforcement, and support plate. Position tension spring over
end of mounting bolt, and install flat washer and nut. Tighten nut
sufficiently to compress spring slightly and secure nut with cotter pin.
c. Cargo Body Tailgate.

(1) TAILGATE REMOVAL (fig. 234). Unhook tailgate chains and
TAILGATE CHAIN TAILGATE HINGE ROD
RA PD 332903
Figure 234—Cargo Body Tailgate
•427•
TM 9-801
230-231
swing tailgate down. Remove cotter pin and flat washer from one
end of hinge rod. Withdraw hinge rod from hinges while supporting
tailgate.
(2) TAILGATE INSTALLATION (fig. 234). Position tailgate on
body and aline hinges. Insert hinge rod through hinges, then install
flat washer and cotter pin on end of hinge rod.
231. CARGO DUMP BODY.
a. General. All steel dump body is hinged at rear to hoist sub-
frame which is mounted on frame side rails. Subframe is attached
to chassis with four U-bolts and two locating bolts of type shown
in figure 235. Cargo dump bodies are equipped with end curtains,
tarpaulin, removable tarpaulin bows, and side cargo racks.
b. Cargo Dump Body Mountings.
(1) SUBFRAME TO FRAME SIDE RAIL MOUNTING REMOVAL (fig.
235). Remove two nuts, lock washers, and clip plate from lower end
of mounting U-bolt. Remove U-bolt from around subframe channel
and frame side rail. Remove wood filler block from frame side rail.
U-BOLT MOUNTING
A SUBFRAME WOOD RAIL
B SUBFRAME SIDE CHANNEL
C CHASSIS FRAME L. H. SIDE RAIL
D WOOD FILLER BLOCK
E MOUNTING U-BOLT
F CLIP PLATE
SUBFRAME LOCATING BOLT
G LOCK WASHER
H BOLT NUT
I BODY HINGE BRACKET
J BODY HINGE PIN
K SUBFRAME LOCATING BRACKET
L SUBFRAME LOCATING BOLT
RA PD 6474O
Figure 235—Sectional Views of Cargo Dump Body Mountings
•428•
TM 9-801
231
(2) SUBFRAME TO FRAME SlDE RAIL MOUNTING INSTALLATION
(fig. 235). Position wood filler block in frame side rail. Position
U-bolt on subframe channel with inner leg of U-bolt in groove in
wood filler block. Install clip plate, lock washers, and nuts on U-bolt,
tightening nuts firmly and with equal tension.
TAILGATE RELEASE LEVER
TAILGATE, PINS, AND CHAINS
RELEASE LEVER AND LINKAGE—LEFT SIDE
A RELEASE LEVER
B TAILGATE
C UPPER HINGE PIN
D DROP CHAIN
E RELEASE ROD CLEVIS PIN
F LOCKING CLAMP
RELEASE CROSS SHAFT AND LINKAGE-
-RIGHT SIDE
G SUPPORT BRACKET
H CROSS SHAFT
I ARM
J CLEVIS
K ROD
L KEY
RA PD 332963
Figure 236—Cargo Dump Bady Tailgate and Release Linkage
.429.
TM 9-801
231-232
(3) SUBFRAME LOCATING BOLT REMOVAL (fig. 235). Aline
hole in subframe locating bracket with hole in upper flange of frame
side rail, using drift. Install bolt through locating bracket and frame
side rail, install lock washer and nut, then tighten nut firmly.
(4) SUBFRAME LOCATING BOLT INSTALLATION (fig. 235). Aline
hole in subframe locating bracket with hole in upper flange of frame
side rail, using drift. Install bolt through locating bracket and frame
side rail, install lock washer and nut, then tighten nut firmly.
c. Cargo Dump Body Tailgate.
(1) TAILGATE REMOVAL (fig. 236). At left front of body pull
tailgate release lever downward to release tailgate lower hinge pins.
Detach drop chains from body. Remove pins from upper brackets,
then lift off tailgate.
(2) TAILGATE INSTALLATION (fig. 236). Position tailgate on
body with upper hinge pins in brackets and insert bracket pins in
brackets. At left front of body, move tailgate release lever up against
body to lock bottom of tailgate to body.
d. Tailgate Release Linkage.
(1) RELEASE LINKAGE REMOVAL (fig. 236). Remove the three
bolts, nuts, and washers attaching release lever to arm and clevis,
then remove lever. Remove bolt, nut, and washer attaching clevis
to right side cross shaft arm. Remove screws and washers clamping
arms to cross shaft, then remove arms and keys from cross shaft, and
remove cross shaft from support brackets. Remove clevis and two
nuts and washers from front end of side control rod. At rear end of
body, remove cotter pin attaching control rod to locking clamp, then
swing clamp down. Pull rod out of guides and lower hinge bracket.
Removal procedure is same for either rod.
(2) RELEASE LINKAGE INSTALLATION (fig. 236). Position cross
shaft in support brackets, install arms and Woodruff keys on shaft,
then tighten clamp screws firmly. Position side control rods in
guides, then attach rear end of rods to locking clamps and secure
with cotter pins. Install nut, washer, clevis, washer, and nut loosely
on each control rod, then attach right-hand clevis to arm with bolt,
washer and nut. Attach release lever to left-hand arm with two bolts,
nuts, and washers, then attach clevis to lever and arm with a bolt,
nut, and washer. Adjust control rod length by means of the two nuts
on each rod, then tighten nuts firmly.
232. TROOP SEATS AND CARGO RACKS.
a. Description. Cargo racks and troop seats are supplied with
wood cargo bodies and dump cargo bodies. Cargo racks consist of
right and left side racks incorporating full length troop seats and a
front rack. Side racks for cargo and dump bodies are similar, but
front rack for dump bodies includes a hinged cab protector. Rack
stakes fit into pockets at sides and front of body to support racks.
A latch at each end of seat section holds seat in folded position as
part of rack. When lock plates are released, seats fold down and are
supported on hinged legs.
•430•
TM 9-801
232-233
b. Cargo Rack Removal.
(1) REMOVE TROOP SEATS ONLY. Remove cotter pins and hinge
pins from all five hinges attaching each seat to rack stakes. Release
lock plates, disengage hinges, and lift troop seat out of body.
(2) REMOVE FRONT CARGO RACK (CARGO BODY ONLY). Tar-
paulins and bows must be removed before attempting to remove any
of the cargo racks. Lift straight up on front rack while standing
inside body. When rack stakes are clear of front stake pockets, re-
move rack from body.
(3) REMOVE SIDE CARGO RACKS. Lift each rack straight up to
free ends of stakes from pockets at sides of body. Remove racks from
vehicle.
(4) REMOVE FRONT RACK (CARGO DUMP BODY ONLY). Side
cargo racks must first be removed. Remove the four bolts, nuts, and
washers attaching each front rack brace to body and rack and re-
move braces. Lift rack straight up to remove from body.
c. Cargo Rack Installation.
(1) INSTALL FRONT RACK (CARGO DUMP BODY ONLY). Lift
rack onto body and position stakes in front pockets. Push down on
rack to fully engage stakes in stake pockets.
(2) INSTALL SIDE CARGO RACKS ONLY. Position each rack on
body with longitudinal slots on inner side of stakes. Engage stakes
in pockets and push down on rack until hinge brackets fit down
against body side. On dump body, make sure that eye on each side
rack engages hook in front rack.
(3) INSTALL FRONT CARGO RACK (CARGO BODY ONLY). Posi-
tion front rack on body and fit rack stakes into front stake pockets.
Push down on rack, at the same time engaging lock pin at each end
of rack in eye in side rack.
(4) INSTALL TROOP SEATS ONLY. Position troop seats on side
rack hinge brackets and aline hinge holes with drifts. Install hinge
pin and cotter pin in each of five hinges for each troop seat. Fold
seat up against side rack and fasten in place with seat latch at each
end.
Section XLII
GASOLINE AND WATER TANK BODIES

233. GASOLINE TANK BODY.

a. General. Gasoline tank body consists of two elliptical shaped
tanks of 375-gallon capacity each, mounted on a welded steel cradle.
Gravity discharge through emergency valves into pipes manifolding
into a rear discharge faucet is controlled by levers in the right rear
compartment. Valves can be opened or closed by means of these
•431•
TM 9-801
233
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
levers; valves can also be closed by a trip release at left front corner
of body.
b. Mountings. Gasoline tank body is attached to chassis frame
side rails with eight side mountings and two locating bolts as shown
in figure 237.
c. Mounting Removal.
(1) REMOVE BODY TO FRAME SIDE RAIL MOUNTING (fig. 237).
Remove two nuts, lock washers, and tee plate from lower end of
mounting U-bolt. Remove U-bolt from around body sill and sill
channel, then remove wood filler block from frame side rail.
(2) REMOVE LOCATING BOLT (fig. 237). At rear of vehicle re-
move nut, lock washer, and bolt attaching body sill and sill channel
to chassis frame side rail.
d. Mounting Installation.
(1) INSTALL LOCATING BOLT (fig. 237). Aline holes in body
sill, channel, and frame side rail with drift, then install bolt through
sill channel, sill, and upper Mange of frame side rail. Install lock
washer and nut, and tighten firmly.
(2) INSTALL BODY TO FRAME SIDE RAIL MOUNTING (fig. 237).
Fit wood filler block in frame side rail, then position U-bolt around
body sill and frame side rail with inner leg of U-bolt in groove in
filler block. Install tee plate, two lock washers, and nuts on U-bolt,
tightening nuts firmly.
LOCATING BOLT
U-BOLT'
RA PD 332S13
Figure 237—Sectianal Views of Gasaline Tank Body Mountings
•432•
TM 9-801
233
e. Controls and Linkage.
(1) REMOVE SELECTIVE VALVE OPERATOR (fig. 238). Discon-
nect trip cable from front end release lever clevis by unscrewing
compression nut. Remove two cable connector nuts, then remove
connectors to disconnect both valve cables. Remove the six nuts and
washers, and the four bolts attaching operator assembly to cabinet,
then remove operator from cabinet.
(2) INSTALL SELECTIVE VALVE OPERATOR (fig. 238). Position
operator assembly in cabinet, threading cables and pipes through
bearing bracket spacer. Attach operator to cabinet with four bolts,
and six nuts and washers. Attach two valve cables to levers with
cable connectors and nuts, making sure cables have a slight amount
of slack with valves fully closed, and with valve levers in closed
position. Tighten cable connector nuts firmly. Attach trip cable to
release lever clevis with compression nut and sleeve, making sure
cable is of correct length to insure proper trip release.
(3) REMOVE CABLE (fig. 238). Cables can be removed and re-
placed without removal of either selective valve operator or emer-
gency valves. Disconnect cable at valve operator and at either valve
or front end trip release as the case may be, by removing compres-
sion nuts or cable connectors. Withdraw cable from pipe.
(4) INSTALL CABLE. Squeeze or solder end of cable to prevent
spreading, then apply a light coating of general purpose grease No.
EMERGENCY VALVE
A SUMP
B VALVE
C VALVE ARM
D CLEVIS PIN
E CLEVIS
F OPERATOR CABLE
G CABLE PIPE
EMERGENCY VALVE OPERATOR
H DISCHARGE PIPE
I BOLT
J CAP SCREW
K CABLE NUT
L MOUNTING BOLT
M MOUNTING NUT
Figure 238—Emergency Valve and Controls
736603 O - 47 - 28 • 433 •
RA PD 332956
TM 9-801
233
TRUCK, 2 1/2-TON, 6x6
0 to the cable. Feed cable into the pipe from the rear compartment,
until cable emerges from other end of cable pipe. Connect cable to
emergency valve or to front end trip release with cable connector or
compression nut. Cut cable to proper length at operator, then connect
to lever with connector or compression nut. Valve cables must have
slight slack with valves fully closed.
f. Valves. Three valves are used on the gasoline tank body—
one emergency valve in the bottom of each tank and a single dis-
charge faucet at the rear end. Faucet may be removed and replaced
without necessity of dumping load providing emergency valves are
closed and are in good condition. CAUTION: Open flame must not
be brought into vicinity while valves are being replaced, or while
valves are removed. Fumes in tank and lines may constitute a highly
explosive mixture.
(1) REMOVE DISCHARGE FAUCET. Close both emergency valves,
then open discharge faucet with faucet wrench to drain pipes. Hold
rear pipe with pipe wrench; with another wrench applied to hexagon
part of faucet, unscrew faucet.
(2) INSTALL DISCHARGE FAUCET. Coat pipe threads with avia-
tion type cement. Hold rear discharge pipe with pipe wrench; with
another wrench applied to hexagon part of faucet, screw faucet to
pipe.
(3) REMOVE EMERGENCY VALVE (fig. 238). Empty tank from
which valve is to be removed, then close both emergency valves.
Disconnect operator cable from valve arm by removing cotter pin
and clevis pin. Remove the six bolts, nuts, and washers attaching
pipe flange to valve flange. Remove the six cap screws attaching
valve to sump, then remove valve and screen as an assembly. Slide
screen off valve; clean screen by immersing in dry-cleaning solvent
and brushing. Removal procedure is same for either valve.
(4) INSTALL EMERGENCY VALVE (fig. 238). Clean sump flange,
pipe flange, and both valve flanges to remove all traces of cement
and other foreign matter. Coat all flanges with aviation type cement,
install screen on valve, then position valve on sump. Attach valve to
sump with six cap screws and washers, tightening screws firmly.
Loosen nuts on pipe hangers to permit alinement of pipe flange to

valve, then attach pipe flange to valve with six bolts, nuts, and wash-
ers. Tighten pipe hanger nuts. Attach operator cable clevis to valve
arm with clevis pin and secure pin with cotter pin. Installation pro-
cedure is same for either valve.
g. Cabinets. A wood-lined, steel cabinet is mounted on each run
board for stowage of hoses and other equipment. Right-side cabinet
also houses controls for emergency valves.
(1) REMOVE CABINET. In right-side cabinet only, remove the
selective valve operator as described in subparagraph e (1) above.
For either cabinet, remove the four bolts, nuts, and washers attach-
ing cabinet to run boards. If vehicle is equipped for camouflage, four
bolts, nuts, and washers attaching rear board assembly to each cabi-
net must be removed. Lift cabinet off run board.
.434.
TM 9-801
233-234
(2) INSTALL CABINET. Position cabinet on run board. In right-
side cabinet only, thread cables and pipes through holes in cabinet
as cabinet is slid into position on run board. Aline holes with drifts,
then attach cabinet to run board with four bolts, nuts, and washers.
In right-side cabinet only, install selective valve operator as de-
scribed in subparagraph e (2) above. If vehicle is equipped for
camouflage, attach rear board assembly to cabinet with four bolts,
nuts, and washers.
234. WATER TANK BODY.
a. General. Water tank body consists of an insulated tank of
750-gallon capacity supported by two steel longitudinal box sills
welded to tank bottom. Tank is equipped with an equipment com-
partment at the rear, and a pumping unit cabinet at front left side.
Pumping unit cabinet contains pumping unit, gate valve, and con-
trol for emergency valve which is located on tank bottom. Tank is
used to transport potable (drinking) water, therefore, when mak-
ing replacements described in following paragraphs, use every pre-
caution to avoid contaminating tank or contents.
b. Mountings. Water tank body is attached to chassis frame side
rails with eight mountings and two locating studs as shown in figure
239.
c. Mounting Removal.
(1) REMOVE BODY TO FRAME SIDE RAIL MOUNTING (fig. 239).
Remove two nuts, lock washers, and clip plate from mounting. Install
nut on lower end of stud, then install a second nut tight against first
nut. Use wrench on upper nut to unscrew stud from tapped plate
welded to longitudinal sill at top of wood spacer rail. Remove nuts
from stud. Remove second mounting stud in same manner. Remove
(2) REMOVE BODY LOCATING STUD (fig. 239). At rear end of
wood spacer rail, remove nut and lock washer from locating stud at
under side of frame side rail upper flange. Install nut on end of stud
and install second nut tight against first nut. First nut must not be
tight against frame side rail. Use wrench on upper nut to unscrew
stud from tapped plate welded to longitudinal sill at top of wood
spacer rail. If broken stud is to be removed, all body mountings must

be removed or loosened, rear end of body raised to expose fractured

end of stud, and stud unscrewed with suitable tool.
(I. Mounting Installation.
(1) INSTALL BODY LOCATING STUD (fig. 239). At rear end of
wood spacer rail, aline hole in frame with holes in wood spacer rail
and tapped plate, using a drift. Install locating stud and screw into
tapped plate welded to longitudinal sill with wrench applied to lower
nut. Remove nuts from stud, install lock washer and nut on stud,
then tighten nut firmly.
(2) INSTALL BODY TO FRAME SIDE RAIL MOUNTING (fig. 239).
Position wood filler block in frame side rail. Screw two mounting
studs into tapped plate, with inner stud in groove in wood filler block.
•435•
TM 9-801
234
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
STUD MOUNTING
A WATER TANK BODY
B MOUNTING STUD TAPPED PLATE
C WOOD LONGITUDINAL SPACER
RAIL
D MOUNTING STUD
E LOCATING STUD
LOCATING STUD
F WOOD FILLER BLOCK
G LOCK WASHER
H STUD NUT
I FRAME LEFT SIDE RAIL
J LOWER CLIP PLATE
HA PD 64763
Figure 239—Sectional Views of Water Tank Body Mountings
Use two nuts on stud, applying wrench to lower nut, then remove
nuts. Install clip plate, lock washers, and nuts, tightening nuts firmly.
e. Valves. Two valves are used on water tank body; a gate valve
in the pumping unit cabinet and an emergency valve in bottom of
tank near front. Emergency valve is similar to that used on gasoline
tank body (fig. 238) and is similarly attached to tank and pipe.
(1) REMOVE GATE VALVE (fig. 240). Make sure emergency
valve is closed, then remove bolts from pump flange at suction port.
Remove six pipe flange bolts, nuts, and washers, then remove assem-
bly of valve and pipes from pumping unit cabinet. Remove hose
connection nipple from valve by unscrewing with pipe wrench, then
unscrew valve from pipe, using pipe wrenches.
(2) INSTALL GATE VALVE (fig. 240). Apply coating of aviation
type cement to pipe threads, then screw valve on pipe and hose con-
•436•
TM 9-801
234
A VALVE
B PIPE FLANGE
C FLANGE BOLT
D PUMP
E SUCTION INLET
F CAP SCREW
Figure 240—Gate Valve Installed
RA PD 332976
nection nipple into valve, using pipe wrenches. Thoroughly clean
pipe and pump flanges to remove all traces of cement, gasket, and
foreign matter. Coat both sides of a new pipe flange gasket with avia-
tion type cement, position gasket between flanges and attach flanges
together with six bolts, nuts, and washers. Examine pump flange gas-
ket and replace unless in good condition. Coat gasket with aviation
type cement, then attach suction flange to pump with bolts and
washers.
(3) REMOVE EMERGENCY VALVE. Tank must be drained before
removal of valve. Remove the heating chamber bottom pan by re-
moving 18 attaching bolts, nuts, and washers. Disconnect cable from
valve arm. Remove six bolts, nuts, and washers attaching pipe flange
to valve flange. Remove six cap screws and lock washers attaching
valve to sump flange and remove valve. Slide screen off valve,
immerse screen in dry-cleaning solvent and brush thoroughly. Wash
screen in water, preferably hot water.
(4) INSTALL EMERGENCY VALVE. Thoroughly clean pipe and
valve flanges to remove all traces of cement, bits of gasket, and
foreign matter. Install screen on pump. Coat both sides of a new
•437•
TM 9-801
234
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
valve to sump gasket with aviation type cement, position gasket and
valve to sump, then attach valve with six cap screws and lock wash-
ers. Coat both sides of a new pipe flange gasket with aviation type
cement, .position gasket between pipe flange and valve, then install
six bolts, nuts, and washers attaching flanges together. Connect oper-
ator cable to valve arm. Position heating chamber bottom pan, and
install with 18 bolts, nuts, and washers.
f. Pumping Unit.
(1) REMOVE PUMPING UNIT. Remove bolts from pump flange
at suction port. Remove six bolts, nuts, and washers attaching pipe
flanges together, then remove valve and pipes as an assembly from
pumping unit cabinet. Remove the six bolts, nuts, and washers at-
taching pump and engine to cabinet channels. Lift unit straight up
so that oil drain will clear channels, then lift unit from cabinet . Pump
can be removed from engine as per maintenance instructions fur-
nished with vehicle.
(2) INSTALL PUMPING UNIT. Lift pumping unit high enough to
permit oil drain to clear cabinet channels while positioning unit in
cabinet. Attach unit to cabinet rails with six bolts, nuts, and wash-
ers, and tighten nuts firmly. Thoroughly clean pipe and pump
flanges to remove all traces of cement, gasket, or foreign matter.'
Position assembly of valve and pipes in cabinet. Coat both sides of a
new pipe flange gasket with aviation type cement, position gasket
between flanges and attach flanges together with six bolts, nuts, and
SCREW
LEVER
WASHER
ROD
HINGE PIN
GASKET
SET SCREW
SCREEN
STEM
WASHER
BODY
RA PD 33280*
Figure 241 —Filler Hatch Assembly f Prot eetoseal CapJ

•438•
TM 9-801
234
washers. Coat pump flange gasket with aviation type cement, posi-
tion between suction flange and pump, then attach flange with bolts
and washers.
g. Strainers. Three strainers are used on each water tank body—
emergency valve strainer, filler hatch strainer, and vent strainer.
Removal, cleaning, and installation of emergency valve strainer is
described in subparagraph e (3) and (4) above. However, emer-
gency valve strainer can also be replaced, without removal of emer-
gency valve, by entering tank through manhole.
(1) REMOVE FILLER HATCH STRAINER (fig. 241). Using large
pipe wrench, unscrew cap from four-inch diameter pipe projecting
through walkway on top of tank. Lift assembly of cap and screen
straight up to remove from body. Remove set screw from cap, then
unscrew strainer screen from cap. Invert strainer and plunge rapidly
up and down in a container of clean water. With strainer inverted,
direct a stream of water against outside of strainer until all par-
ticles of foreign matter are dislodged and washed out. Blow strainer
dry with compressed air, if available.
(2) INSTALL FILLER HATCH STRAINER (fig. 241). Screw strain-
er into cap, install set screw, and tighten firmly. Coat threads with
aviation type cement, then screw filler hatch in place on pipe with
large pipe wrench.
CAP
SPACER
UPPER VENT
WALKWAY
TANK SHELL
INSULATION
Figure 242—Water Tank Vent Assembly
RA PD 332805
•439•
TM 9-801
234-235
(3) REMOVE LOWER VENT (fig. 242). Open manhole cover and
remove manhole plug. From inside tank unscrew lower vent from
pipe coupling welded to tank with adjustable wrench. Slush vent in
clean water, or use stream of water to remove dirt from screen, then
blow with compressed air, if available.
(4) INSTALL LOWER VENT (fig. 242). Screw lower vent into
coupling inside tank with adjustable wrench. Install manhole plug
and close manhole cover.
h. Cabinet Doors.
(1) REMOVE PUMPING UNIT CABINET SIDE DOORS. Remove
staking at each of three hinge pins with a file, then drive out pins,
using drift and hammer. Removal is same for either side door.
(2) INSTALL PUMPING UNIT CABINET SIDE DOORS. Position
door to cabinet, position three hinge pins in hinges and tap into
place with hammer. Stake pins in place with hammer or punch.
Installation procedure is same for either side.
(3) REMOVE PUMPING UNIT CABINET TOP DOOR. Remove stak-
ing from both hinge pins with a file, then drive out pins using drift
and hammer. Disengage catch and lift door straight up to remove
from cabinet.
(4) INSTALL PUMPING UNIT CABINET TOP DOOR. Position door
on cabinet and tap hinge pins into hinges with hammer. Stake hinge
pins in place using hammer or punch.
(5) REMOVE EQUIPMENT COMPARTMENT DOORS. Remove stak-
ing from hinge rod with a file. With hammer and drift, drive rod out
slightly. Pull projecting end of rod with pliers to withdraw rod, or
tap pliers with hammer. Removal procedure is same for either door.
(6) INSTALL EQUIPMENT COMPARTMENT DOORS. Position door
to body and mate hinge halves. Insert rod in hinge and tap gently
into place with hammer. Stake end of hinge rod with hammer or
punch. Installation procedure is same for either door.
Section XLIII
WINCH AND CONTROLS
235. DESCRIPTION.
a. General (fig. 243). The winch is a worm driven horizontal
drum type, mounted at the front end of the vehicle on frame side
rail extensions. Power for operating the winch is supplied by the

vehicle engine through a power take-off and winch drive shaft. The
winch controls consist of a winch power take-off control lever in the
cab and a sliding clutch shift yoke at the winch. The winch is
equipped with a drag brake which works in conjunction with the
sliding clutch to prevent the drum from overrunning the cable when
cable is pulled from drum. The winch automatic brake assembly
acts on the winch worm shaft to hold the load when the power
supply as been cut off.
•440*
TM 9-801
235-236
WINCH AND CONTROLS
A FRAME EXTENSION
B REAR BASE ANGLE
C FRONT BASE ANGLE
D FRONT BUMPER
E WINCH END FRAME
F SHIFT YOKE POPPET KNOB
G SLIDING CLUTCH
H CABLE
I GEAR CASE
J UNIVERSAL JOINT
K SHEAR PIN LOCATION
L DRIVE SHAFT
M STOP COLLAR
N POWER TAKE-OFF ASSEMBLY
O WINCH SHIFT LEVER
P TRANSMISSION
Figure 243—Winch System
RA PD 316886
b.
Data.
Type
Drive
Capacity
Make
Vendor number
Model
Worm driven—horizontal drum
From power take-off
10,000 Ib
Heil Gar Wood
A157-E3 GW 225-6225B
125G and 125G1 2 US 12
Winch cable dia. x/2 in.
a. General. Adjustments can be made to compensate for normal

wearing of brake lining, and should be made whenever tests show

that adjustment is necessary. A modification of gear case cover used
on some Gar Wood winch assemblies is also described in this para-
graph, and should be applied to prevent entrance of water into
gear case.
b. Adjustment Tests.
(1) TEST DRAG BRAKE OPERATION. Disengage sliding jaw
clutch. Take hold of cable and begin to pull cable off drum. Drum
should cease to revolve as soon as pull is stopped. If drum overruns
cable, the drag brake requires adjustment
(2) TEST AUTOMATIC BRAKE OPERATION. Place a winch
equipped vehicle at top of a steep grade. Fasten winch cable to
•441 •
TM 9-801
236
TRUCK, 2 y2 -TON, 6x6
another vehicle at bottom of grade. Pull vehicle up grade, using
winch only. When vehicle has been pulled part way up incline,
depress engine clutch pedal, and shift power take-off into neutral.
Vehicle being pulled should not roll backward; if it does, the need
for automatic brake adjustment is indicated. CAUTION: Brake
may become warm even though it is properly adjusted; however,
if hand cannot be held on brake cover on account of heat, this indi-
cates that brake is too tight and should be loosened. Brake is de-
signed to hold load, and if properly adjusted, will not become over-
heated. Excessive heat indicates that brake band should be relined
or the brake band assembly replaced.
c. Drag Brake Adjustment (fig. 244).
(1) DISENGAGE SLIDING JAW CLUTCH. Lift poppet knob and
move shift yoke to disengage sliding clutch.
(2) ADJUST*DRAG BRAKE SPRING. Insert screw driver or wedge
between end of tension bolt and drag brake shoe. Force tension bolt
away from shift yoke to permit use of wrenches on adjusting nut
and lock nut. Loosen lock nut and back off adjusting nut one full
turn, then remove wedge and check adjustment (subpar. b (1)
above). Repeat above process, if necessary to obtain satisfactory
brake operation. When correct adjustment is obtained, turn lock
nut up tight against adjusting nut. In the event a satisfactory adjust-
ment cannot be obtained, it will be necessary to reline brake or
replace drag brake shoe assembly.
d. Automatic Brake Adjustment (fig. 244).
(1) ADJUST BRAKE BAND SPRING TENSION. Back off lock nut,
DRAG BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
WINCH AUTOMATIC BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
RA PD 332991
Figure 244—Winch Adjustments on Vehicle
•442•
TM 9-801
236-237
WINCH AND CONTROLS
then tighten adjusting nut one-half turn and reset lock nut against
adjusting nut.
(2) TEST ADJUSTMENT. Accomplish procedure for automatic
brake test (subpar. b (2) above). Repeat step (1) above if neces-
sary to obtain correct adjustment. NOTE: // brake will not hold
load after adjustment or if it overheats when properly adjusted as
indicated by test, it will be necessary to replace the brake band
e. Gear Case Cover Modification (Applicable to early Gar
Wood winches only). On some vehicles equipped with Gar Wood
winches a vent hole was drilled through gear case cover under the
Gar Wood name plate. It has been established that in some instances
water has entered the gear case through vent hole. If evidence of
water is indicated when checking or draining lubricant from gear
case of above mentioned winches, the following operations should
be performed to prevent recurrence of this condition:
( 1 ) DRAIN GEAR CASE AND REMOVE COVER. Remove drain plug
and drain out contents of gear case. Remove six cap screws which
attach worm gear case cover, then lift off cover.
(2) CLEAN GEAR CASE AND PLUG VENT HOLE. Wipe inside of
gear case and gears to remove all traces of water. Coat a No. 6
(0.138 in.)-32NC-2x3/8-inch self tapping screw, or a No. 6 (0.138
in.)-32NC-2xVi-inch sheet metal screw with shellac or permatex
and drive screw, from inside of cover, into small vent hole in top
of cover near the filler plug. Be certain that screw is tight in hole at
finish of operation.
(3) INSTALL COVER. Install cover with gasket. Tighten cover
screws evenly and firmly to assure correct fit over gear case bushings.
(4) PREPARE WINCH FOR SERVICE. Replace drain plug. Remove
filler plug and oil level plug and fill gear case with gear oil (Section
VIII ) until the oil appears at level plug hole. Install filler plug after
lubricant ceases to flow from level plug hole, and install level plug.
237. AUTOMATIC BRAKE BAND ASSEMBLY.
a. General. When for any reason it becomes necessary to re-
place the winch automatic brake band, the replacement may be
accomplished without removing the winch assembly from the ve-

hicle.
b. Automatic Brake Band Removal.
(1) REMOVE FRONT BUMPER. Remove front bumper (par. 215
(2) SUPPORT WINCH ASSEMBLY. Place a jack or other suitable
support under winch assembly to hold weight of winch. This is
necessary because front base angle must be disconnected from frame
side rail extensions.
(3) RAISE WINCH FRONT BASE ANGLE. Remove six front base
angle to side rail extension bolts. Remove two front base angle to
gear case cap screws and two base angle to brake case cap screws
(fig. 245); then, with pry bar, force left-hand end of front base
•443•
TM 9-801
237
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
BRAKE LINING
BRAKE BAND
BASE ANGLE TO GEAR CASE CAP SCREW
FRONT
BASE
ANGLE
ANGLE TO BRAKE
CASE SCREW
ANCHOR NUTS
SPRING ALINING WASHER
BRAKE CASE-
BRAKE DRUM
SPRING
ADJUSTING NUTS
BRAKE CASE TO
GEAR CASE SCREW
BRAKE BAND
RA PD 333055
Figure 245—Sectional Views of Winch Automatic
Brake Assembly
angle upward to provide clearance for brake case removal.
(4) REMOVE BRAKE CASE (fig. 245). Relieve spring tension on
brake band by removing lock nut, adjusting nut, alining washer, and
spring from brake band rod end. Remove two brake case to gear
case cap screws then pull brake case and brake band assembly for-
ward and remove from winch.
(5) REMOVE BRAKE BAND FROM CASE. Remove anchor nut
from brake band rod end on outside of case. Lift band assembly
from case and remove anchor nut which remains on threaded rod
end (fig. 245).
c. Automatic Brake Band Installation (fig. 245).
(1) MOUNT BRAKE BAND ASSEMBLY IN CASE. With one anchor
nut installed on end of brake band, position brake band assembly
in case. Screw anchor nut on larger rod, at outside of case, until ap-
proximately two threads protrude through nut; then screw inside
anchor nut down against case finger-tight.

(2) INSTALL BRAKE CASE AND BAND ASSEMBLY ON WINCH.

Move brake case and band assembly over the brake drum and into
position at winch assembly. Install two brake case to gear case cap
screws, using lock washers. Force front base angle assembly down
.to position at brake case and install two base angle to brake case
cap screws with lock washers. Coat base angle to gear case cap
screws with aviation type cement and install cap screws with lock
washers. Tighten cap screws firmly, and tighten base angle to end
frame bolt. Assemble spring locating washer and nuts on adjusting
end of brake band and tighten anchor nut.
(3) INSTALL WINCH MOUNTING BOLTS AND FRONT-BUMPER.
Install front base angle to side rail extension bolts, then install front
bumper (par. 215 b (4) ).
.444.
TM 9-801
237-239
WINCH AND CONTROLS
A END FRAME ,,
B SHIFT YOKE PIVOT PIN
C SHIFT YOKE AND DRAG BRAKE SUPPORT
(INTEGRAL WITH END FRAME) C
D DRAG BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY
E DRAG BRAKE ADJUSTING BOLT NUTS D
t SPRING
G DRAG BRAKE ADJUSTING BOLT
H CABLE DRUM
RA PD 332960
Figure 246—Winch Drag Brake Shoe Assembly
(4) ADJUST AUTOMATIC BRAKE. Adjust automatic brake (par.
236 d).
238. DRAG BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY.
a. Drag Brake Shoe Assembly Removal (fig. 246). Remove
cotter pin from upper end of shift yoke pivot pin, then with hammer
and punch, drive pin out of drag brake shoe, shift yoke, and pin sup-
ports. Lift poppet knob and move shift yoke toward end frame as far
as possible, turning drum if necessary to obtain sufficient clearance,
then turn drag brake shoe and remove it from winch assembly.
b. Drag Brake Shoe Assembly Installation. With clutch shift
yoke held as close as possible to end frame, and drum turned to
position which will provide clearance, guide drag brake shoe down
between clutch shift yoke and end of drum. Move clutch shift yoke
and drag brake as necessary to aline holes through same with holes
through supports on end frame. Drive shift yoke pivot pin down
through brake shoe, shift yoke, and supports, then secure by install-
ing a cotter pin through each end of pin.
239. CABLE.
a. General. Winch cable is wire rope type with hemp core. One
end of cable has a 4-foot length of chain attached by means of a
safety clamp.
b. Winch Cable Removal.
(1) UNWIND CABLE FROM DRUM. Disengage sliding jaw clutch,
unhook chain from tow hooks, then pull cable straight out from
winch by hand.
(2) DETACH CABLE FROM DRUM FLANGE. Loosen two cable

clamp nuts at outer side of right-hand drum flange, then pull cable
out of clamp.
c. Winch Cable Installation.
(1) ATTACH CABLE TO DRUM. Insert end of cable through clamp
at inner side of right-hand drum flange, then tighten clamp nuts at
outer side of right-hand drum flange.
(2) WIND CABLE ON DRUM. Wind cable on drum (par. 24).
.445.
TM 9-801
240
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
240. DRIVE SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS.
a. Description. The winch drive shaft, which transfers power
from power take-off to the winch assembly, is a solid type with a
U-joint at each end. Forward U-joint is keyed to drive shaft and
attached to winch worm shaft by a shear pin (fig. 243). Rear U-joint
is keyed on power take-off shaft. Splines in rear U-joint forward yoke
engage the splines at rear end of drive shaft to form a slip joint. A
stop collar is installed on drive shaft ahead of slip joint to prevent
drive shaft from sliding back into slip joint, thereby preventing front
end of drive shaft from dropping off winch worm shaft in the event
of shear pin failure.
b. Drive Shaft and U-joint Removal.
(1) REMOVE DRIVE SHAFT FROM VEHICLE. Pull cotter pin and
remove shear pin. Loosen safety collar set screw and move collar
forward. Slide drive shaft into slip joint until front universal joint
yoke is free from winch worm shaft, then pull shaft out of slip joint
and remove from vehicle.
(2) REMOVE UNIVERSAL JOINT FROM POWER TAKE-OFF. Loosen
set screw in universal joint yoke at power take-off and pull universal
joint from power take-off shaft. Remove key.
c. Drive Shaft and U-joint Installation.
(1) INSTALL U-JOINT AT POWER TAKE-OFF. Place key in slot
in power take-off shaft. With set screw loosened, install joint yoke
on power take-off, then tighten set screw firmly.
A TOW HOOK
B SUPPORTING CHAIN
C FRONT BASE ANGLE
D BUMPER BRACKET
E SIDE RAIL EXTENSION
F REAR BASE ANGLE
RA PD 332962
Figure 247—Method of Supporting Winch Assembly Prior
to Removal
•446•
TM 9-801
240-241
WINCH AND CONTROLS
(2) INSTALL DRIVE SHAFT. Loosen stop collar set screw so col-
lar will move freely on drive shaft. Slide collar on splined end of
shaft with set screw point between two of the splines. Coat drive
shaft splines and inside of front U-joint with chassis grease. Insert
splined end of drive shaft into rear U-joint yoke; then push forward
U-joint yoke onto winch worm shaft.
(3) INSTALL SHEAR PIN AND POSITION STOP COLLAR. Dip a
regulation shear pin in engine oil and install through U-joint yoke
and hole through winch worm shaft and secure with cotter pin.
CAUTION: Regulation shear pins are designed to shear whenever
overload occurs; as a safety measure, never use a substitute. Locate
stop collar on drive shaft so that a space of one-half inch exists be-
tween collar and nearest point on U-joint yoke (fig. 35).
241. WINCH ASSEMBLY REMOVAL.
a. Remove Front Bumper and Brush Guard. Remove front
bumper (par. 215 h (3)), and remove brush guard (par. 217 c
and d).
b. Attach Hoist (fig. 247). Attach chain-fall or other hoisting
equipment to winch to support the assembly while attaching parts
are being removed. Chain sling, may be used as in figure 247.
KJ
A WINCH DRIVE SHAFT
B DRIVE SHAFT KEY
C WINCH BASE ANGLE-REAR
D WINCH END FRAME
E WINCH BASE ANGLE-FRONT
F SLIDING JAW CLUTCH
G WINCH DRUM
H ROPE GUARD
I WINCH ROLLER
J WORM SHAFT HOUSING
K DRAIN PLUG
L SHEAR PIN
RA PD 64574
Figure 248—Winch Assembly Installed (Bottom View)
.447.
TM 9-801
241-243
c. Disconnect Winch Drive Shaft. Remove cotter pin and re-
move shear pin from U-joint yoke. Loosen stop collar screw and
pull drive shaft toward power take-off, thereby removing U-joint
from winch worm shaft. Support drive shaft by suspending by wire
attached to chassis.
d. Remove Winch Assembly from Vehicle. Remove front base
angle to side rail extension bolts. Remove rear base angle to frame
side rail bolts and washers. Move winch assembly forward and away
from vehicle.
242. WINCH ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION.
a. Position Assembly at Vehicle. Swing assembly to position,
using chain-fall or other suitable hoist. Winch rear base angle must
rest on forward end of frame side rails with bolt holes alined.
b. Install Mounting Bolts (fig. 248). Install four rear base
angle to frame side rail bolts, and six front base angle to side rail
extension bolts. Use lock washers under all bolt nuts and tighten
firmly.
.c. Install Radiator Brush Guard and Front Bumper. Install
brush guard (par. 217 d and e) and install front bumper (par. 215
d. Connect Drive Shaft. Coat inside of forward universal joint
and shear pin with chassis grease. Remove wire used to suspend
drive shaft and slide U-joint yoke onto winch worm shaft. Rotate
drive shaft as necessary to aline shear pin holes in yoke and worm
shaft; then insert shear pin and secure with cotter pin. Move drive
shaft stop collar toward power take-off until one-half inch clearance
exists between collar and forward edge of U-joint yoke; then tighten
stop collar screw.
Section XLIV
POWER HOIST AND CONTROLS
243. GENERAL.
a. The power hoist mechanism consists primarily of a hydraulic
cylinder and pump assembly (fig. 249), mounted beneath the dump
body for the purpose of raising the front end of the body for dump-
ing the load out rear of body. The hoist mechanism is connected by
propeller shafts and U-joints to power take-off auxiliary drive shaft.
Levers for controlling hoist mechanism are located in cab and are
connected through linkage with power take-off and hoist pump.

Raising of dump body is accomplished through hydraulic pressure
and leverage in lifting linkage. Hoist assemblies used on these ve-
hicles are furnished by Gar Wood Industries and The Heil Company.
•448•
TM 9-801
SUBFRAME CHANNEL PUMP AND VALVE ASSEMBLY LIFTING LINK
244
BODY HINGE
HOIST CYLINDER ASSEMBLY SUBFRAME ASSEMBLY
HEIL HOIST AND SUBFRAME ASSEMBLY
TRUNNION BRACKETS (TO BODY)
LIFT ARM ASSEMBLY
CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
SUBFRAME ASSEMBLY
CYLINDER TRUNNION MOUNTING BRACKETS
SUBFRAME TO CHASSIS U-BOLTS
GAR WOOD HOIST AND SUBFRAME ASSEMBLY
RA PD 332969
Figure 249—Power Hoist Assembly Views
244. CONTROLS AND LINKAGE.
a. General. The power hoist—regardless of make—is controlled
from the cab by two levers. One lever shifts the power take-off
auxiliary drive in and out of engagement and the other lever, which
is connected through rods and linkage with the control valve at
hoist pump assembly, is used to control the raising and lowering of
dump body. Levers and linkage used on early and late vehicles
differ considerably, but both types serve the same purpose. Replace-
ment of hoist power take-off lever and linkage, both early and late
type, and hoist pump control lever used on early vehicles, is covered
in Section XXVIII.
b. Hoist Pump Control Lever and Linkage Removal.
(1) REMOVE HOIST PUMP CONTROL LEVER (EARLY VEHICLES).
Remove hoist pump control lever (par. 158 d (4) and (5)).
(2) REMOVE HOIST PUMP CONTROL LEVER (LATE VEHICLES).
Remove clevis pin at lower end of lever which attaches rod to lever.
736603 O - 47 - 29
.449.
TM 9-801
244
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
Remove three bolts which attach lever bracket to brake master cyl-
inder bracket; to remove, pull lever and bracket assembly down and
remove from under vehicle. Remove bracket from lever.
(3) REMOVE LEVER TO HOIST PUMP RODS AND LINKAGE (fig.
250). Remove clevis pins from each end of control lever to pickup
lever rod; then pull rod toward rear and remove from vehicle. Re-
move clevis pins which attach pickup lever to pump rod and remove
rod. Forward end of rod is threaded and equipped with an adjustable
rod end clevis and lock nut which may be removed if necessary.
Remove pin (or bolt) which attaches pickup lever to frame bracket
and remove lever.
c. Hoist Pump Control Lever and Linkage Installation.
(1) INSTALL HOIST PUMP CONTROL LEVER (EARLY VEHICLES;.
Install hoist pump control lever (par. 158 f (1), (2), and (4)).
(2) INSTALL HOIST PUMP CONTROL LEVER (LATE VEHICLES)
(fig. 250). Assemble lever to bracket; then from below vehicle, place
upper end of lever through floor pan opening and raise lever and
A FRAME LEFT-HAND SIDE RAIL
B BRAKE CYLINDER BRACKET
C HOIST PUMP CONTROL LEVER
D PUMP CONTROL LEVER BRACKET
E CLEVIS PIN
F CONTROL LEVER TO PICKUP LEVER ROD
G PICKUP LEVER
H PICKUP LEVER TO PUMP ROD
I LOCK NUT
J PICKUP LEVER BRACKET
K LEVER EXTENSION
L BELL CRANK
M HOIST PUMP ASSEMBLY
RA PD 333056
Figure 250—Hoist Pump Control Linkage (Late Vehicles)
•450•
TM 9-801
244-245
bracket up to position at brake master cylinder bracket. Install three
lever bracket to master cylinder bracket bolts and tighten firmly.
(3) INSTALL PICKUP LEVER. Position pickup lever at frame
bracket and install pickup lever to frame bracket pin (or bolt). Se-
cure pin with new cotter pin.
(4) INSTALL CONTROL LEVER TO PICKUP LEVER ROD. Insert
forward end of control lever to pickup lever rod through hole in
muffler support bracket and propeller shaft bearing support bracket.
Connect forward end of rod to lower end of hoist pump control lever
and rear end of rod to pickup lever, using clevis pins.
(5) INSTALL ROD BETWEEN PICKUP LEVER AND HOIST PUMP
ASSEMBLY. With adjustable rod end clevis and lock nut installed on
forward end of rod, attach rod to pickup lever and hoist pump bell
crank. NOTE: Gar Wood hoist linkage incorporates a lever exten-
sion (fig. 250) which attaches to rod with a clevis pin and is at-
tached to hoist pump bell crank. Attach rear end of rod to extension
if vehicle is equipped with Gar Wood hoist or directly to bell crank
if Heil hoist is used.
d. Hoist Pump Valve Control Linkage Adjustment. Spring
loaded plunger is mounted in bell crank arm to locate valve in any
one of three positions selected by operator, and link rod nearest hoist
assembly has one adjustable rod and clevis. Make adjustment as
follows:
(1) ADJUST PUMP VALVE LINKAGE. Remove clevis pin from
adjustable clevis and move clevis away from idler lever. Consult
"Shifting Arrangement Plate" and place hoist valve control lever in
"RAISE" position. Move bell crank until plunger drops into depres-
sion at "RAISE" valve position, then adjust clevis on threaded end
of rod so it can be reconnected to pickup lever without changing
control lever or control valve positions. Position adjustable yoke at
pickup lever and install clevis pin. Secure clevis pin with new cotter
pin.
245. PROPELLER SHAFTS AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS.
a. General (fig. 251). Drive line from power take-off to hoist
pump comprises three solid drive shafts connected by universal
joints and supported by two steady bearings, which are attached to

frame brackets. All U-joints are similar in construction except rear

joint which, together with a special key in rear drive shaft, forms a
slip joint. U-joint yokes are attached to drive shafts by set screws
and Woodruff keys.
b. Removal. Removal of any individual shaft, U-joint, or steady
bearing will be facilitated if complete drive line assembly is removed
from vehicle.
(1) REMOVE STEADY BEARINGS. Remove nuts and lock washers
from front and rear steady bearing studs.
(2) REMOVE DRIVE LINE ASSEMBLY. Loosen set screw attach-
ing front U-joint to power take-off auxiliary drive shaft. Remove
drive line assembly by pulling steady bearing studs from brackets;
•451•
TM 9-801
245
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6
A POWER TAKE-OFF
1 UNIVERSAL JOINT
C SET SCREW
D WOODRUFF KEY
I FRONT SHAFT
F STEADY BEARING—FRONT
G STEADY BEARING BRACKET
H BOLT AND NUT
I FRAME BRACKET
J CENTER SHAFT
K STEADY BEARING—REAR
L STEADY BEARING BRACKET
M REAR SHAFT
N UNIVERSAL AND SLIP JOINT
O SPECIAL KEY
P PUMP SHAFT
Q FRONT CONTROL ROD
R REAR CONTROL ROD
S IDLER LEVER
T IDLER LEVER SUPPORT
U ADJUSTING BOLT
RA PD 332837
Figure 251 —Hoist Propeller Shaft and Steady Bearing
Installation
then moving assembly first rearward, then forward to remove front
U-joint from power take-off and rear propeller shaft from slip joint.
Do not lose special key out of rear shaft.
(3) REMOVE REAR U-JOINT. Loosen set screw which holds rear
U-joint on hoist pump shaft, then remove joint from shaft.
(4) REMOVE U-JOINTS AND STEADY BEARINGS FROM PROPELLER
SHAFTS. Remove five set screws which attach U-joints to shafts.
Remove U-joints and Woodruff keys from shafts and slide the two
steady bearings off center shaft.
(5) REMOVE STEADY BEARING SUPPORT BRACKETS FROM FRAME
(fig. 251). Remove bolt attaching front steady bearing bracket to
frame bracket, then remove bracket. Remove two bolts which attach
rear steady bearing bracket to frame crossmember and' remove

bearing bracket from frame.
•452•
TM 9-801
245
c. Installation. Drive line components should be assembled on
bench and the assembly then installed on vehicle to facilitate the
operation.
(1) ATTACH STEADY BEARING BRACKETS TO FRAME. Attach
front steady bearing bracket to frame bracket, using bolt and lock
washer as in figure 251. Attach rear steady bearing bracket to frame
crossmember, using two bolts, with bracket in position as in figure
251.
(2) INSTALL UNIVERSAL JOINTS TO FRONT SHAFT. Install a
Woodruff key at each end of shaft (28s/s in. long) and slide univer-
sal joint over shaft. Aline hole in yoke with hole in shaft. Install set
screws and tighten. Prick punch each screw to prevent loosening.
(3) INSTALL UNIVERSAL JOINT TO REAR SHAFT. Install a
Woodruff key at front end of shaft (14Vi in. long) and slide uni-
versal joint over shaft. Aline hole in yoke with hole in shaft. Install
set screw and tighten. Prick punch screw to prevent loosening.
(4) ASSEMBLE CENTER SHAFT. Slide two steady bearings over
center shaft (47 Va in. long). Install a Woodruff key at each end of
shaft. Connect front and rear shafts to center shaft by sliding uni-
versal joints over ends. Aline hole in yoke with hole in shaft. Install
set screw and tighten. Prick punch screw to prevent loosening.
(5 ) INSTALL U-JOINT AT PUMP. Install a Woodruff key in pump
shaft and slide universal joint over shaft. Aline hole in yoke with
hole in shaft. Install set screw and tighten. Prick punch screw to
prevent loosening.
(6) INSTALL UNIVERSAL JOINT AT POWER TAKE-OFF. Install a
Woodruff key in power take-off shaft. Loosen set screw in universal
joint on end of front shaft. Aline slot in universal joint yoke with
Woodruff key in power take-off shaft, then slide joint over shaft.
Aline set screw with flat spot on shaft and tighten set screw. Prick
punch head of screw to prevent loosening.
(7) ATTACH REAR STEADY BEARING. Install special Hi-Pro key
at end of rear shaft. Raise propeller shaft sufficiently to insert end
of shaft into universal joint slip yoke at pump. Insert rear steady
bearing stud into support bracket on frame crossmember. Install
lock washer and nut on stud.

(8) ATTACH FRONT STEADY BEARING. Raise propeller shafts as

necessary to insert front steady bearing stud into support bracket,
attached to frame bracket. Install lock washer and nut on stud.
(9) ADJUST DRIVE LINE CLEARANCE. Carefully inspect propeller
shafts and universal joints to be sure they do not rub against muf-
fler, brackets, or crossmembers. When necessary, use flat washers
between steady bearing and bracket at rear, also between steady
bearing bracket and frame bracket at front. Rear support bracket
at crossmember can also be adjusted slightly to provide greater
drive line clearance by loosening bolts attaching bracket to cross-
member. Be sure bolts are again tightened when clearance has been
obtained.
•453•
TM 9-801
245
TRUCK, aVa-TON, 6x6
GROOVE PIN REMOVAL AT WRIST PIN
GROOVE PIN REMOVAL AT TRUNNION PIVOT SHAFT
CHANNEL REMOVAL AT CROSSMEMBER
figure 252—Hell Hoist Cylinder Removal
RA PD 332MI
.454.
TM 9-801
246
246. CYLINDER ASSEMBLY (HEIL HOIST).
a. General. The cylinder assembly used on Heil hoists is at-
tached to the lifting mechanism by a tie bar which connects the
piston rod to a wrist pin (fig. 252). Forward end of cylinder to
which the pump assembly is attached is supported on a trunnion
pivot shaft.
b. Cylinder Removal (fig. 252).
(1) RAISE BODY AND DISCONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT. Raise
body and block securely to prevent dropping, then place pump con-
trol lever in "LOWER" position. Loosen set screw in U-joint yoke
at pump shaft, remove nut and lock washer from rear steady bear-
ing stud, then remove stud from bracket. Pull down on rear pro-
peller shaft and at the same time remove joint yoke from pump
shaft. Remove cotter pin and clevis pin which attach control rod to
pump lever.
(2) REMOVE HOIST WRIST PIN. Use hammer and punch to
drive groove pin from wrist pin and bracket (fig. 252). Use a heavy
drift and sledge hammer and drive wrist pin from lever assembly
and piston rod tie bar.
(3) REMOVE CYLINDER AND PUMP ASSEMBLY. Drive groove
pin out of trunnion pivot shaft. Remove four nuts, lock washers, and
bolts attaching two channels to subframe' crossmember. Spread
channels (fig. 252) and lift cylinder and pump assembly from ve-
hicle. Remove pivot shaft and spacers from cylinder.
(4) REMOVE PUMP ASSEMBLY FROM CYLINDER. Support cyl-
inder assembly so that fluid can be drained from pump. Remove
drain plug from pump body and drain fluid into suitable receptacle
—rotate pump shaft to force out all fluid. Remove four nuts and
lock washers from studs attaching pump to cylinder manifold. Re-
move pump assembly and discard the gasket.
PUMP AND VALVE ASSEMBLY CYLINDER ASSEMBLY
RA PD 332836
Figure 253— HeH Hoist Pump Installation At Cylinder
•455•
TM 9-801
246-247
c. Cylinder Installation.
(1) ATTACH PUMP ASSEMBLY (fig. 253). Place a new pump
to cylinder gasket over studs and against cylinder manifold. Posi-
tion pump assembly on studs with drain plug at bottom, and install
four stud nuts and lock washers.
(2) POSITION CYLINDER AT SUBFRAME. Position cylinder assem-
bly inside subframe members with oil filler hole on top and piston
rod toward rear.
(3) INSTALL TRUNNION PIVOT SHAFT. Install pivot shaft through
trunnion at rear of cylinder and position spacer on each end of shaft.
Move two channels together so that ends of pivot shaft will enter
holes in channels. Install groove pin through pivot shaft and into
angle bracket. Drive groove pin tightly into shaft. Attach channels
to subframe crossmember, using four bolts with nuts and lock
washers.
(4) INSTALL HOIST WRIST PIN. Insert wrist pin through lifting
lever and piston rod tie bar. Insert groove pin through angle bracket
and into hole in wrist pin. Drive groove pin in tightly.
(5) CONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT AND CONTROL ROD. Raise rear
propeller shaft upward, and at the same time guide the rear U-joint
rear yoke onto pump shaft. Be sure key is in slot in pump shaft. Insert
rear steady bearing stud through hole in support bracket and install
stud nut and lock washer. Tighten set screw in rear U-joint yoke.
Attach control rod to pump lever, using clevis pin and cotter pin.
NOTE: After installation is completed, inspect and adjust drive line
as directed in paragraph 245 c (9).
(6) FILL HYDRAULIC CYLINDER. Whenever pump assembly has
been removed or cylinder disassembled, it is necessary that system
be refilled with recommended hydraulic fluid (Section VIII).
(a) Remove the special vent plug in top of cylinder. Start en-
gine and engage power take-off. Place hoist pump control lever,
located in cab, in "RAISE" position. Pour fluid through opening with
the pump running slowly until the body raises to its full height
When body has reached its full height, add about one-half pint more
fluid.
(b) With power take-off still engaged and pump running, move
control lever into "LOWER" position. Lower the body slowly until
all the way down. Do not replace special vent plug at this time.
(c) Move control lever to "RAISE" position and again raise
body slowly. Repeat raising and lowering operations several times
to allow any surplus fluid to drain out. Install vent plug when body
is in fully raised position.
247. CYLINDER ASSEMBLY (GAR WOOD HOIST).
a. General (fig. 249). The cylinder assembly, mounted between
subframe members, consists of a cylinder with trunnion, cylinder
head, and piston and rod assembly. The cylinder trunnion is sup-
ported at each subframe member by a trunnion mounting bracket
Piston rod is connected to lift arm cross head by a bolt.
•456*
TM 9-801
247
GAR WOOD HOIST SAFETY CHAIN
-•TRUNNION BRACKETS!
ATTACHMENT OF GAR WOOD HOIST TO BODY
RA PD 332961
Figure 254—Trunnion Bracket and Safety Chain Installations
at Dump Body (Gar Wood Hoist)
b. Cylinder Removal (fig. 249). Removal of cylinder can be
accomplished with body mounted on vehicle. Cylinder, pump, and
lifting linkage should be removed as an assembly, then disassembled
on bench.
(1) RAISE BODY AND DISCONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT. Accom-
plish procedure given in paragraph 246 b (1).
(2) DISCONNECT LIFTING LINKAGE FROM BODY (fig. 254). Lay
suitable blocking across hoist subframe to support fear end of assem-
bly while removing trunnion brackets and safety chain U-bolt. Re-
move six trunnion brackets to body bolts and remove nuts from U-
bolt which attaches safety chain to body understructure.
(3) REMOVE WOOD SILLS FROM SUBFRAME (fig. 249). Remove
wood sill center section, bolted to each side of subframe, to permit
access to trunnion bracket bolt heads.
•457•
TM 9-801
247
(4) REMOVE TRUNNION BRACKET TO SUBFRAME BOLTS. Re-
move four trunnion bracket to subframe bolts at each side of sub-
frame.
(5) LIFT ASSEMBLY FROM VEHICLE. If personnel are available,
three or four men can easily lift the cylinder and lifting linkage
from vehicle; otherwise, attach suitable tackle and lift the assembly
from vehicle.
(6) REMOVE LIFTING LINKAGE FROM CYLINDER (fig. 255). Re-
move hoist cylinder trunnion brackets. Remove piston rod to cross
head bolt, then force cross head off piston rod. Remove bolts attach-
ing link retaining collars to lifting arm trunnion shaft, then remove
collars and links from the assembly. Set lifting linkage aside until
ready to install cylinder.
(7) REMOVE PUMP FROM CYLINDER (fig. 257). Place hoist
valve lever in "LOWER" position. Remove plate from bottom of
pump and drain all fluid from assembly. Unscrew packing nut, at-
taching pump manifold to cylinder manifold, then move packing
and nut away from cylinder. Remove five cap screws and washers
attaching pump to cylinder manifold. Remove pump assembly and
discard gaskets used between pump and cylinder. Replace plate
which was removed for draining.
c. Cylinder Installation.
(1) INSTALL PUMP ASSEMBLY ON CYLINDER. Coat both sides
of pump to cylinder body gaskets with aviation type cement. With
new packing and packing nut in position on pump manifold (fig.
257), and pump to cylinder gaskets positioned on pump, attach
pump to cylinder, using five cap screws and flat washers, with avia-
A PISTON ROD TO CROSS HEAD BOLT
B LIFT ARM
C COLLAR
D COLLAR RETAINING BOLT
E HOIST CYLINDER
f LINK
RA PD 333019
Figure 255—Lifting Linkage to Cylinder Assembly Connections
•458•
TM 9-801
247
tion type cement under cap screw heads and on washers. Tighten
cap screws evenly and alternately, then tighten packing nut on cyl-
inder manifold threads.
(2) INSTALL LIFTING LINKAGE ON CYLINDER AND PUMP AS-
SEMBLY. Place cylinder and pump assembly on bench in operating
position (with pump assembly below cylinder trunnion). Lay lifting
arm linkage assembly on bench with trunnion bracket shaft resting
on top of cylinder, then assemble cross head to piston rod and install
bolt and nut. Slide links into position on cylinder trunnion and lift
arm trunnion shaft, then install trunnion shaft collars and secure
with bolts, nuts, and lock washers (fig. 255).
(3 ) INSTALL CYLINDER, PUMP, AND LIFTING LINKAGE ASSEMBLY
IN VEHICLE. Place blocking as in subparagraph b (2) above, to
support rear end of cylinder assembly. If personnel are available,
three or four men can lift the assembly into position in hoist sub-
frame; otherwise attach suitable tackle and swing the assembly into
place in vehicle. As the cylinder is lowered into the subframe, place
one cylinder trunnion mounting bracket on each cylinder trunnion.
Attach trunnion mounting brackets to subframe, using four bolts
with nuts and lock washers, placing bolt heads at outer side of sub-
frame. Install wood sill center section at each side of subframe.
(4) CONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT AND CONTROL ROD. Accom-
plish procedure as given in paragraph 246 c (5).
(5) FILL HYDRAULIC CYLINDER AND ATTACH LIFTING LINKAGE
TO BODY. Whenever pump assembly has been removed from cylin-
der, or hydraulic fluid drai.ied from hoist for any reason, it is neces-
sary to refill the hoist hydraulic system with recommended fluid
(Section VIII).
(a) Remove filler plug at side of hoist cylinder. Place control
valve lever (in cab) in "LOWER" position.
(b) With piston rod forced into cylinder as far as possible, add
hydraulic fluid slowly to filler plug level; then install filler plug.
(c) Start engine, shift hoist power take-off lever to "IN" posi-
tion and slowly operate hoist pump with the hoist pump valve lever
in "RAISE" position. When piston rod has moved lifting linkage
sufficiently to allow the attaching of trunnion brackets to body lift-

ing member, place valve control lever in "HOLD" position.

(d) Attach trunnion brackets (fig. 254) to body lifting mem-
bers, using three bolts with lock washers and nuts at each bracket;
then with hoist, raise body sufficiently to relieve weight from block-
ing used to support body.
(e) With hoist fully raised, again remove filler plug from cyl-
inder, fill cylinder to plug level, and reinstall plug.
(f) Repeat lowering, raising, and filling procedure until oil re-
mains at filler plug hole level when body is in fully raised position.
Raise and lower body slowly to prevent foaming of oil which cre-
ates air pockets.
(6) ADJUST PUMP VALVE LEVER STOP SCREW. Stop screw is
provided in pump manifold to control pump valve opening at the
lowering position.
.459.
TM 9-801
247-248
(a) With hoist power take-off lever in the "IN" position and
valve control lever in "LOWER" position, quickly accelerate engine.
Note if body has a tendency to rise, in which case the stop screw
must be turned down further until body does not move.
248. PUMP ASSEMBLY (HEIL HOIST).
a. General. Hoist pump and valve assembly is attached directly
to forward end of hoist cylinder. Valve operating linkage, comprising
a bell crank, support bracket, valve operating lever, and link, are
included in the pump assembly. Adjustable packing glands are pro-
vided at pump drive shaft and valve operating shaft.
b. Pump Packing Glands. Two packing glands are utilized to
prevent fluid leakage at pump assembly. Both glands are adjustable
for normal packing wear, and are accessible with the pump installed
on vehicle. Whenever adjustment fails to stop leakage, the glands
must be repacked.
(1) PACKING GLAND ADJUSTMENT (fig. 256).
(a) Tighten the packing nut as necessary to stop leak around
valve shaft; however, if valve linkage does not operate freely after
adjustment, the necessity for packing replacement is indicated.
(b) To stop leakage at pump drive gear shaft, tighten stud nuts
at packing gland alternately one-half turn at a time, until the leak is
stopped or gland contacts pump body. Repack gland if leak con-
tinues after tightening nuts at gland.
( 2 ) GLAND PACKING REPLACEMENT.
(a) Replace Packing at Pump Valve Shaft. Loosen lock nut and
set screw at valve control lever and remove lever and key from
VALVE SHAFT PACKING GLAND
SET SCREW
PACKING NUT
CONTROL VALVE LEVER
CONTROL LINK
PUMP SHAFT PACKING GLAND'
STUD NUT
RA PD 333057
Figure 256— Hell Hoist Pump Assembly
•460•
TM 9-801
248-249
shaft . Remove packing gland nut and remove all old packing from
gland. Slide new packing onto shaft and into gland. Thread packing
nut into gland to force packing into place, then with key in shaft,
install valve control lever on shaft.
(b) Replace Packing in Drive Gear Shaft Gland. Place dump
valve control lever in "HOLD" position, remove plug, and drain
fluid from pump. Disconnect propeller shaft from pump (par. 246
b (1) ). Remove stud nuts at packing gland, then remove gland from
shaft and remove all old packing from gland. Do not lose packing
retaining ring. Place new packing around shaft and against pump
housing cover. Push packing retaining ring onto shaft, then install
gland and stud nuts. Tighten nuts evenly as in step b (1) (b) above
to firmly compress packing around shaft. Reconnect propeller shaft
and install hydraulic fluid (par. 246 c (6) ).
c. Pump Removal. Pump may be removed from vehicle without
removing cylinder, body, or subframe.
(1) DISCONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT. Disconnect propeller shaft
as directed in paragraph 246 b (1).
(2) REMOVE PUMP ASSEMBLY. Remove drain plug from pump
body and allow all fluid to drain from pump—rotate pump shaft to
expel all fluid. Remove four nuts from studs which attach pump to
cylinder. Remove pump assembly and discard gasket.
d. Pump Installation (fig. 256).
(1) ATTACH PUMP ASSEMBLY. Coat a new pump to cylinder
gasket with aviation type cement, then place gasket over studs and
against cylinder. Position pump assembly on studs and install nuts
and lock washers.
(2) CONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT AND CONTROL ROD. Connect
propeller shaft and control rod as directed in paragraph 246 c (5).
(3) INSTALL HYDRAULIC FLUID. Fill hydraulic cylinder as di-
rected in paragraph 246 c (6).
249. PUMP ASSEMBLY (GAR WOOD HOIST).
a. General. Hoist pump assembly is attached by cap screws to
the cylinder trunnion, and pump manifold is connected to cylinder
through the use of packing, held in place by a packing nut (fig. 257).
Propeller shaft from power take-off is connected to drive shaft (H,

fig. 257), and hoist pump valve is operated by linkage which is con-
nected to lever in vehicle cab. Pump is accessible for servicing and
replacement with hoist assembly and body installed on the vehicle.
b. Pump Packing Glands (fig. 257). Packing glands are utilized
to prevent fluid leakage at following four points: at pump assembly
pump manifold (N), pump valve shaft (K), drive gear shaft (H),
and idler gear shaft (J). Lock nuts (G) are used at gear shafts to
prevent loosening of packing nuts.
(1) PACKING NUT ADJUSTMENT. In the event of leaks at any
of the packing nuts, make adjustment as follows: If packing nut is
locked by lock nut, back off lock nut first. Tighten packing nuts by
turning clockwise as necessary to stop fluid leakage. Lock adjust-
•461*
TM 9-801
249
TRUCK, 2'A-TON, 6x6
A CYLINDER
B LOW PRESSURE PIPE
C PUMP ASSEMBLY
D CONTROL BRACKET
E CONTROL LINK
F CONTROL BELL CRANK
G LOCK NUTS
H DRIVE SHAFT
I PACKING NUTS
J IDLER SHAFT
K VALVE PACKING NUT
L VALVE LEVER
M PUMP MANIFOLD
N MANIFOLD TO TRUNNION PACKING NUT
O CYLINDER TRUNNION
RA PD 332792
Figure 257—Gar Wood Hoist Pump Installed on Cylinder
ment by screwing lock nut up tightly against packing nut. If leak
continues after adjustment, it will be necessary to replace packing.
(2) GLAND PACKING REPLACEMENT (fig. 257). Packing at
pump manifold to cylinder connection does not require replacement
except when pump or cylinder assembly is being replaced. If leak
develops at that point, tighten packing nut
(a) Preliminary Instructions. Before attempting any of the suc-
ceeding operations, raise dump body to full height and block secure-
ly. Place hoist valve control lever in "HOLD" position, remove plate
at bottom of pump body, and drain fluid from pump into convenient
receptacle.
(b) Replace Packing at Pump Valve Shaft. Loosen valve lever
to pump shaft set screw, then remove lever and key from shaft . Do
not lose spring and plunger from lever. Remove packing nut . Re-
move all old packing from nut. Place new packing around shaft,
reinstall packing nut, and tighten sufficiently to prevent leak.
Place key in shaft, then with spring and plunger in place in lever,
and lever control link attached, install valve lever on shaft. Fill hy-
•462•
TM 9-801
249-250
draulic cylinder as directed in paragraph 247 c (5).
(c) Replace Packing at Pump Gear Shaft. Procedure is same
for replacing packing at the pump drive gear shaft and idler gear
shaft.
1. Disconnect propeller shaft from pump (par. 246 b (1)).
Loosen lock nut, then remove packing nut from shaft. Remove all
old packing remaining in nut
2. Place new packing around shaft, then install packing nut and
adjust as directed in step (1) above. Connect propeller shaft as
directed in paragraph 246 c (5).
3. Fill hydraulic cylinder as directed in paragraph 247 c (5).
c. Pump Removal (fig. 257). Hoist pump may be removed
from vehicle without removing cylinder, body, or subframe.
( 1 ) RAISE AND BLOCK BODY. Raise body as necessary to permit
access to cap screws at upper side of cylinder trunnion, then securely
block body in raised position.
(2) DRAIN HYDRAULIC FLUID. Place pump valve control lever
in "LOWER" position, remove plate from lower side of pump assem-
bly, and allow fluid to drain. NOTE: To make certain that all hy-
draulic fluid has drained out, start engine and run hoist pump slowly
with the hoist valve control lever in the "RAISE" position. Replace
plate on pump after draining.
(3) DISCONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT AND CONTROL ROD. Dis-
connect propeller shaft and control rod as directed in paragraph 246
(4) REMOVE PUMP ASSEMBLY. Remove pump assembly as di-
rected in paragraph 247 b (7).
d. Pump Installation.
(1) INSTALL PUMP ASSEMBLY ON CYLINDER. Install pump as-
sembly on cylinder as directed in paragraph 247 c (1).
(2) CONNECT PROPELLER SHAFT AND CONTROL ROD. Connect
propeller shaft and control rod at pump as directed in paragraph
246 c (5).
(3) FILL HYDRAULIC CYLINDER. Fill hydraulic cylinder as di-
rected in paragraph 247 c (5).
APPENDIX
Section XLV
SHIPMENT AND TEMPORARY STORAGE
250. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.
a. Preparation for domestic shipment of the vehicle is the same
as preparation for temporary storage or bivouac. Preparation for
shipment by rail includes instructions for loading and unloading the
•463•
TM 9-801
250-251
TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6
vehicle, blocking necessary to secure the vehicle on freight cars,
number of vehicles per freight car, clearance, weight, and other in-
formation necessary to properly prepare the vehicle for rail ship-
ment. For more detailed information and for preparation for in-
definite storage, refer to AR 850-18.
251. PREPARATION FOR TEMPORARY STORAGE OR
DOMESTIC SHIPMENT.
a. Vehicles to be prepared for temporary storage or domestic
shipment are those ready for immediate service but not used for less
than thirty days. If vehicles are to be indefinitely stored after ship-
ment by rail, they will be prepared for such storage at their destina-
tion.
b. If the vehicles are to be temporarily stored or bivouacked,
take the following precautions.
(1) LUBRICATION. Lubricate the vehicle completely (par. 37).
(2) COOLING SYSTEM. If freezing temperature may normally be
expected during the limited storage or shipment period, test the
coolant with a hydrometer and add the proper quantity of antifreeze
to afford protection from freezing at the lowest temperature antici-
pated during the storage or shipping period. Completely inspect the
cooling system for leaks.
(3) BATTERY. Check battery and terminals for corrosion and
if necessary, clean and thoroughly service battery (par. 119).
(4) TIRES. Clean, inspect, and properly inflate all tires. Replace
with serviceable tires, tires requiring retreading or repairing. Do not
store vehicles on floors, cinders, or other surfaces which are soaked
with oil or grease. Wash off immediately any oil, grease, gasoline, or
kerosene which comes in contact with the tires under any circum-
stances.
(5) ROAD TEST. The preparation for limited storage will include
a road test of at least 5 miles, after the battery, cooling system,
lubrication, and tire service, to check on general condition of the
vehicle. Correct any defects noted in the vehicle operation before
the vehicle is stored, or note on a tag attached to the steering wheel,
stating the repairs needed or describing the condition present. A
written report of these items will then be made to the officer in

charge.
(6) FUEL IN TANKS. It is not necessary to remove the fuel from
the tanks for shipment within the United States, nor to label the
tanks under Interstate Commerce Commission Regulations. Leave
fuel in the tanks except when storing in locations where Fire Or-
dinances or other local regulations require removal of all gasoline
before storage.
(7) EXTERIOR OF VEHICLE. Remove rust appearing on any part
of the vehicle with sandpaper. Repaint painted surfaces whenever
necessary to protect wood or metal. Coat exposed polished metal
surfaces susceptible to rust, such as winch cables, chains, and in the
case of track-laying vehicles, metal tracks, with medium grade
•464•
TM 9-801
251-252
preventive lubricating oil. Close firmly all cab doors, windows, and
windshields. Vehicles equipped with open type cabs with collapsible
tops will have the tops raised, all curtains in place, and the windshield
closed. Make sure tarpaulins and window curtains are in place and
firmly secured. Leave rubber mats, such as floor mats, where pro-
vided, in an unrolled position on the floor, and not rolled or curled
up. Equipment such as pioneer and truck tools, tire chains, and fire
extinguishers will remain in place in the vehicle.
(8) INSPECTION. Make a systematic inspection just before ship-
ment or temporary storage to insure all above steps have been cov-
ered and that the vehicle is ready for operation on call. Make a list
of all missing or damaged items and attach it to the steering wheel.
Refer to "Before Operation Service" (par. 42).
(9) ENGINE. To prepare the engine for storage, remove the air
cleaner from the carbureter. Start the engine and set the throttle to
run the engine at a fast idle, pour 1 pint of medium grade preserva-
tive lubricating oil, Ordnance Department Specification AXS-674,
of the latest issue in effect, into the carbureter throat, being careful
not to choke the engine. Turn off the ignition switch as quickly as
possible after the oil has been poured into the carbureter. With the
engine switch off, open the throttle wide and turn the engine five
complete revolutions by means of the cranking motor. If the engine
cannot be turned by the cranking motor with the switch off, turn it
by hand or disconnect the high-tension lead and ground it before
turning the engine by means of the cranking motor. Then reinstall
the air cleaner.
(10) BRAKES. Release brakes and chock the wheels or tracks.
c. Inspections in Limited Storage.
(1) Vehicles in limited storage will be inspected weekly for
conditions of tires and battery. If water is added when freezing
weather is anticipated, recharge the battery with a portable charger
or remove the battery for charging. Do not attempt to charge the
battery by running the engine.
252. LOADING AND BLOCKING FOR RAIL SHIPMENT.
a. Preparation. In addition to the preparation described in
paragraph 251, when Ordnance vehicles are prepared for domestic

shipment, the following preparation and precautions will be taken.

(1) EXTERIOR. Cover the body of the vehicle with a canvas
cover supplied as an accessory.
(2) TIRES. Inflate pneumatic tires from 5 to 10 pounds above
normal pressure.
(3) BATTERY. Disconnect the battery to prevent its discharge
by vandalism or accident. This may be accomplished by disconnect-
ing the positive lead, taping the end of the lead, and tying it back
away from the battery.
(4) BRAKES. The brakes must be applied and the transmission
placed in low gear after the vehicle has been placed in position with
a brake wheel clearance of at least 6 inches (fig. 258). The vehicles
736603 O - 47 - 30 "465"
TM 9-801
252
will be located on the car in such a manner as to prevent the car
from carrying an unbalanced load.
(5) All cars containing Ordnance vehicles must be placarded
"DO NOT HUMP."
(6) Ordnance vehicles may be shipped on flat cars, end door
box cars, side door box cars, or drop end gondola cars, whichever
type car is the most convenient.
b. Facilities for Loading. Whenever possible, load and unload
vehicles from open cars under their own power, using permanent end
ramps and spanning platforms. Movement from one flat car to
another along the length of the train is made possible by cross-over
plates or spanning platforms. If no permanent end ramp is available,
an improvised ramp can be made from railroad ties. Vehicles may
be loaded in gondola cars without drop ends by using a crane. In
case of shipment in side-door cars, use a dolly type jack to move
the vehicles into position within the car.
c. Securing Vehicles. In securing or blocking a vehicle, three
motions, lengthwise, sidewise, and bouncing, must be prevented.
There are two approved methods of blocking the vehicles on freight
cars, as described below. When blocking dual wheels, all blocking
will be located against the outside wheel of the dual.
(1) METHOD 1 (fig. 258). Place two blocks (F, fig. 258), one
across the front and one across the rear of the front wheels. Place
one block "F" to the front of the forward rear wheels and one block
"F" to the rear of the rearward rear wheels. These blocks must be
at least eight inches wider than the over-all width of the vehicle at
the car floor. Place sixteen cleats "E" against blocks "F" as shown in
figure 258. Place one cleat "B" against the outside of each front
wheel on the top of blocks "F." Place two cleats "C" against the out-
side of the rear wheels on the top of block "F" as shown in figure
258. Nail the cleats to each block "F" with two 40-penny nails. Pass
six strands, two wrappings, of No. 8 gage, black annealed wire (D,
fig. 258) through the spokes of the wheels and the stake pockets.
Tighten the wires enough to remove slack. If a box car is used,
apply this strapping in similar fashion and attach it to the floor by
the use of blocking or anchor plates. This strapping is not required

when gondola cars are used.

(2) METHOD 2 (fig. 259). Place eight blocks "A" to the front
and to the rear of each front wheel and to the front of each forward
rear wheel, and to the back of each rearward rear wheel (fig. 259).
Nail heel of the block to the car floor with five 40-penny nails, and
toenail that portion of the block under the tire to the car floor with
two 40-penny nails. Place two cleats "B" against the outside face of
each front wheel. Place two cleats "C" against the outside face of
the rear wheels. Nail the lower cleats to the car floor with three 40-
penny nails and the top cleat to the cleats below with three
40-penny nails. Pass six strands, two wrappings, of No. 8 gage,
black annealed wire (D, fig. 259) through the spokes of the wheels
and the stake pockets. Tighten the wires enough to remove slack. If
•466•
i
I
I
I
to
77T
252
•467*
TM 9-801

i
I
e
Js
.*
V)
252
•468*
TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2Va-TON, 6x6

TM 9-801
252-253
a box car is used, apply this strapping in similar fashion and attach
it to the floor by the use of blocking or anchor plates. This strapping
is not required when gondola cars are used.
<l. Shipping Data.
Length, overall CCKW-352 Cargo Body
without winch 231 in.
with winch 2447/s in.
Length, overall CCKW-353 Cargo Body
without winch 256% in.
with winch 270 Va in.
Length, overall CCKW-353 Cargo Dump Body. 2723A in.
Length, overall CCKW-353 Dl Gasoline
Tank Body 253 Vz in.
Length, overall CCKW-353 G2 Water
Tank Body 253% in.
Width, overall (all bodies) Maximum 91 in.
Height, overall (all bodies) Maximum 119 in.
Shipping Weight CCKW-352 and 353 Cargo Body
without winch 15,700 Ib
with winch 16,400 Ib
Shipping Weight CCKW-353 Cargo Dump Body 11,950 Ib
Shipping Weight CCKW-353 Cargo Dump Body 10,750 Ib
Shipping Weight CCKW-353 G2 Water
Tank Body 12,025 Ib
Approximate floor area occupied per vehicle:
$ Cargo Body wo/winch 146 sq ft
|Cargo Body w/winch ISSsqft
JCargo Body wo/winch 162 sq ft
I Cargo Body w/winch 171sqft
Cargo Dump Body 173 sq ft
Gasoline Tank Body and Water
Tank Body 161 sq ft
Approximate volume occupied per vehicle:
i C^g0 Body wo/winch 1,448 cu ft
jcargo Body w/winch 1,536 cu ft
iCargo Body wo/winch 1,606 cu ft

} cargo Body w/winch 1,693 cu ft

Cargo Dump Body 1,710 cu ft
Gasoline Tank Body and Water
Tank Body 1,589 cu ft
Section XLVI
REFERENCES
253. PUBLICATIONS INDEXES.
a. The following publications indexes should be consulted fre-
quently for latest changes to or revisions of the publications given
•469•
TM 9-801
253-255
in this list of references and for new publications relating to materiel
covered in this manual:
Introduction to Ordnance Catalog (explains ASF Cat. ORD-1
SNL system) IOC
Ordnance publications for supply index ASF Cat. ORD-2
(index to SNL's) OPSI
Index to ordnance publications (lists FM's,
TM's, TC's and TB's of interest to Ord-
nance personnel, MWO's, OPSR's, BSD, S
of SR's, OSSC's and OFSB's. Includes al-
phabetical listing of Ordnance major items
with publications pertaining thereto) .... OFSB 1-1
List of publications for training (lists MR's,
MTP's, T/BA's, T/A's, and FM's, TM's,
and TR's concerning training) FM 21-6
List of training films, film strips, and film
bulletins (lists TF's, FS's, and FB's by
serial number and subject) FM 21-7
Military training aids (lists graphic training
aids, models, devices, and displays) FM 21-8
254. STANDARD NOMENCLATURE LISTS.
Trurk, 2V2-ton, 6x6 (GMC) CCKW-352 and
353 SNL G-508
Cleaning, preserving and lubrication mate-
rials, recoil fluids, special oils, and mis-
cellaneous related items SNL K-l
Soldering, brazing and welding materials,
gases and related items SNL K-2
Tool sets—Motor transport SNL N-19
255. EXPLANATORY PUBLICATIONS.
a. Fundamental Principles.
Automotive electricity TM 10-580
Lubrication of Ordnance materiel TM 9-2835
Basic maintenance manual TM 38-250
Driver's manual TM 10-460
Electrical fundamentals TM 1-455

Military motor vehicles AR 850-15

Motor vehicle inspections and preventive
maintenance service TM 9-2810
Precautions in handling gasoline AR 850-20
Standard military motor vehicles TM 9-2800
The internal combustion engine TM 10-570
b. Maintenance and Repair.
Cleaning, preserving, lubricating and welding
materials, and similar items issued by the
Ordnance Department TM 9-850
•470•
TM 9-801
255
REFERENCES
Cold weather lubrication, and service of com-
bat vehicles and automotive materiel.... OFSB 6-11
Maintenance and care of pneumatic tires and
rubber treads TM 31-200
Ordnance maintenance: Body and power
train for 2V2-ton, 6x6, truck (GMC,
CCKW-353 and 352) TM 9-1801
Ordnance maintenance: Power plant for
2V2-ton, 6x6, amphibian truck (DUKW-
353) and 2V2-ton, 6x6, truck (GMC,
CCKW-353 and 352) TM 9-1802A
Ordnance maintenance: Carbureters
(Zenith) TM 9-1826C
Ordnance maintenance: Electrical equipment
(Delco Remy) TM 9-1825A
Ordnance maintenance: Vacuum brake
systems (Bendix BK) TM 9-1827B
Ordnance maintenance: Hydraulic brakes
(Wagner) TM 9-1827C
Ordnance maintenance: Fuel pumps TM 9-1828A
Ordnance maintenance: Speedometers,
tachometers and recorders TM 9-182 9A
c. Protection of Materiel.
Camouflage FM 5-20
Chemical decontamination, materials and
equipment TM 3-220
Decontamination of armored force vehicles. . FM 17-59
Defense against chemical attack FM 2140
Explosives and demolitions FM 5-25
d. Storage and Shipment.
Ordnance storage and shipment chart, group
G—Major items OSSC-G
Registration of motor vehicles AR 850-10
Rules governing the loading of mechanized
and motorized army equipment also major
caliber guns, for the United States Army

and Navy, on open top equipment pub-

lished by Operations and Maintenance
Department of Association of American
Railroads.
Storage of motor vehicle equipment AR 850-18
•471
TM 9-801
TRUCK, 21A-TON, 6x6
INDEX
A Page Na.
Accelerator—see carbureter controls
Air cleaner, carbureter
cleaning 211
description 210
installation 211
removal 210
Air cleaner, hydrovac 353
Alinement, frame 404
Alinement, front wheel 309
Ammeter operation 30 and 278
Axle, front
alinement 309
axle shafts and universal joints.315
data 309
description 309
installation 320
removal 319
shifting 38
tie rod 314
toe-in adjustment 311
trouble shooting 154
Axles, rear
axle shaft—banjo type 321
axle shaft—split type 322
data 321
description 321
installation 324
removal 323
Axle shafts and universal joints,
front axle 315
Axle shaft, rear—banjo type.... 321
Axle shaft, rear—split type 322
Battery and cables
battery charging 238

battery installation 239

battery removal 238
battery tests 238
cables 239
description 238
Poge No.
Battery and lighting system
battery and cables 238
blackout driving light 245
blackout marker lights 246
headlights 240
line voltage tests 240
radio noise suppression 270
stop and taillights 247
trailer connector 249
Bearings, wheel—see hubs and
bearings
Blackout driving light
description 245
installation 246
lamp-unit installation 245
lamp-unit removal 245
removal 246
switch 32 and 281
Blackout marker lights
description 246
installation 247
lamp installation 246
lamp removal 246
removal 247
Bleeding brakes 334

TM 9-801
INDEX
Page No.
installation—banjo type 339
installation—split type 341
removal—banjo type 337
removal—split type 341
Brake shoes, rear
adjustment 337
description 345
installation 345
removal 345
Brush guard 407
Bumpers 406
Cab
Page No.
Body, water tank
auxiliary engine and pumping
unit .' 65
cabinet doors 440
camouflage 69
heating equipment 66
mountings 435
operation 63
pumping unit 438
strainers 439
valves 436
Bonding, body and chassis 261
Bond straps 266
Brake drum, hand 362
Brake drums, service 346
Brake, hand
adjustment 362
band installation 365
band removal 365
description 361
drum installation 364
drum removal 362
linkage installation 366

linkage removal 365

Brake pedal and linkage 348
Brakes, service
adjustments 335
bleeding system 334
brake drums 346
description 329
front brake shoes—banjo, type.337
front brake shoes—split type. .341
hydraulic and vacuum lines. . .358
hydrovac 353
master cylinder 351
operation 329
pedal and linkage 348
rear brake shoes 345
stop light switch 32
system tests 331
vacuum check valve 357
wheel cylinders 356
Brake shoes, front
adjustment 335
description—banjo type 337
description—split type 341
back curtain 48
general 412
mountings 412
seats 46 and 417
side curtains 46
top deck 47
windshield 415
TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2 Vi-TON, 6x6
Page Na.
Check valve, vacuum 357
Circuits, electrical 249
Clutch
description 284
installation 287
pedal and linkage 285
pedal free-travel adjustment. . .284
removal 285
Clutch pedal free-travel 284
Cold weather lubrication 71
Cold weather operation 69
Cooling system
description 220
cold weather protection 73
draining 42
fan and belt 223
filling 41
hose and fittings 229
radiator 224
service 220
thermostat 227
water pump 228
Controls
lever 33
miscellaneous 34
pedal 33
Crankcase ventilation system
Cleaning 177
description 176
ventilator tube and valve
replacement 177
Cranking, hand 43
Cranking motor
cable 239
cleaning commutator 231

controls 232
replacement 232
switch 32
switch replacement 232
Curtains, cab side 46
D Page No.
Description, vehicle . .' 6
Distributor
condenser replacement 193
installation 193
point adjustment 190
point installation 192
point removal 192
removal 193
Drag link, steering 389
Drive shaft and universal joints,
winch 446
Driving the vehicle 44
Electrical circuits 249
Engine
cooling system 41
crankcase oil 41
crankcase ventilation system. . .176
cylinder head gasket
replacement 168
description 161
fuel supply 40
hood 419
installation 181
manifolds 165
TM 9-801
INDEX
Page No.
tank installation (145-inch
wheelbase) 212
tank installation (164-inch
wheelbase) 213
tank removal (145-inch
wheelbase) 212
tank removal (164-inch
wheelbase) 213
F Page No.
Fan belt
adjustment 224
installation 224
removal 224
Fenders and skirts 421
First echelon preventive main-
tenance service
.103
Frame
alinement 404
brush guard 407
bumpers 406
description 404
pintle hook 410
spare wheel carriers 408
tow hooks 407
Front axle—see axle, front
Fuel and air intake system
air cleaner 210
carbureter 199
data 197
description 196
fuel filter 209
fuel gage test 214
fuel pump 207
fuel tank and lines 211

governor 205
idling mixture adjustment .... 200
idling speed adjustment 200
manifold heat control 198
operation 196
Fuel filter
cleaning 209
description 209
installation 210
removal 210
Fuel gage test 214
Fuel pump
cleaning 207
description 207
installation 208
removal 208
tests 207
Fuel tank and lines
fuel lines 214
tank description 211
Gage
fuel 28 and 277
oil pressure 30 and 276
temperature 28 and 276
Gasket, cylinder head
installation 168
removal 168
Gasoline tank body—see body,
gasoline tank
Generating system
TM 9-801
Page No.
Headlights (Cont.)
lamp-unit removal 243
removal 243
switch 278
Hoist, power
controls and linkage 449
cylinder (Gar Wood) 456
cylinder (Heil) 455
operation 58
propeller shafts and universal
joints 451
pump (Gar Wood) 461
pump (Heil) 460
Hood, engine 419
Horn and button 282
Hot weather operation 76
Hubs and bearings-—banjo type
description 379
installation—front 380
installation—rear 382
removal—front 379
removal—rear 381
Hubs and bearings—split type
description 383
installation—front 384
installation—rear 385
removal—front 383
removal—rear 385
Hydraulic and vacuum lines 358
Hydrovac
air cleaner 353
description 353
installation 355
removal . . 355
I
Page No.
description 186
distributor, points, and
condenser 190
radio noise suppression 267
spark plugs 195
timing 188
Initial timing adjustment 188
Instrument panel
installation 273
removal 272
Instruments, gages, and switches
ammeter 30 and 278
blackout driving light
switch 32 and 281
dimmer switch 32 and 283
fuel gage 28 and 277
general 272
horn and button 282
ignition switch 28 and 278
instrument panel 272
main light switch 31 and 278
oil pressure gage 30 and 276
panel lights and
switches 32 and 281
speedometer 28 and 273
stop light switch 32 and 283
thermo gage 28 and 276
Introduction 5
Light, blackout driving — see

TM 9-801
INDEX
M Page No.
Manifold heat control
adjustment 198
description 198
Manifolds, engine
description 165
heat control 198
installation 165
removal 165
Manual advance adjustment 190
Master cylinder
description 351
installation 351
push rod stop screw
adjustment 352
removal 351
New vehicle run-in test 99
Oil filter
description 175
element replacement 175
replacement 176
Oil pan, engine
description 172
draining 172
gasket replacement 172
installation 173
removal 173
Oil pressure gage 30 and 276
Operating instructions 28
Operation, vehicle
auxiliary equipment 54
cold weather 69
hot weather 76
on sand or soft terrain 78
on steep grades 78
prevention of damage by
submersion 79
under unusual conditions 69
under usual conditions 35
Operation of auxiliary equipment. 54
Page Na.
Operation on steep grades 78
Operation under unusual
conditions 69
Operation under usual conditions. 35
Panel lights and switch 281
Pillow block
adjustment check 327
description 325
installation 328
removal 327
Pitman arm, steering 388
Polarizing generator 235
Power hoist—see hoist, power
Power take-off
data 293
description 292
dual drive 296
single drive 293
Power take-off, dual drive
controls installation 300
controls removal 299
installation 297
removal 297
Power take-off, single drive

TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2'A-TON, 6x6
Page No.
Propeller shafts
description 325
installation 327
removal 326
Propeller shafts and universal
joints, power hoist 451
Pump, water tank 438
Radiator
adjustment 227
brush guard 407
description 224
installation 226
removal 225
Radio noise suppression system
battery circuit 270
body and chassis bonding 261
data 261
description 260
generating circuit 269
ignition circuit 267
lighting circuit 271
Rear axles—see axles, rear
Rear spring seat 398
Records 5
References 469
Regulator, generator
cover 237
description 237
installation 237
removal 237
Running boards and step hangers. 423
Seats, cab
description 46 and 417
installation 418
removal 417
Seats, troop 430
Service brake system—see brakes,
service
fag* No.
Sheet metal
engine hood 419
fenders and skirts 421
hood side panels 419
running boards and step
hangers 423
Shifting—transmission, transfer
case, and front axle 35
Shipment and temporary storage.463
Shipping data 469
Shock absorbers 403
Spare parts, vehicle 25
Spare wheel carrier 408
Spark plugs
cleaning and adjusting 195
installation 196
removal 195
Speedometer
cable installation 276
cable removal 275
head installation 273
head removal 273
operation 28
Spring suspension
description 392
front 392
TM 9-801
INDEX
Page No.
Stop and taillights
description 247
installation . .. 248'
lamp-unit installation 248
lamp-unit removal . 247
removal 248
Stop light—see stop and taillights
Stop light switch 32 and 283
Strut rod adjustment,
transmission 291
Switch
blackout driving light. .32 and 281
cranking motor 32 and 232
dimmer 32 and 283
ignition 28 and 278
main light 31 and 278
panel light 32 and 281
stop light 32 and 283
Tabulated data, vehicle 16
Taillights—see stop and taillights
Tank body, gasoline—see body, gaso-
line tank
Tank body, water
tank
-see body, water
Tarpaulin, cargo body 49
Temperature gage 28 and 276
Thermostat
description 227
installation 228
removal 227
Throttle, hand—see carbureter
controls
Tie rod, front axle 314
Tires
inflation 370
replacement 370
Toe-in adjustment 311
Tools
pioneer 20
special 27
vehicle 20
• Page No.
Top deck, cab 47
Torque rods 402
Tow hooks 407
Towing the vehicle 52
Trailer connector 249
Transfer case
control adjustments 302
control cross shaft and bracket
installation 306
control cross shaft and bracket
removal 303
control levers installation 305
control levers removal 304
control rods installation 306
control rods removal 302
description 301
installation 307
removal 306
shifting 35
Transmission
description 288
installation 290
power take-off and controls. . . .292

TM 9-801
TRUCK, 2Vi-TON, 6x6
* Page Na.
Trouble shooting (Cont.)
steering system 158
transfer case 154
transmission 153
wheels, hubs, and tires 157
winch 160
Tune-up, engine 163
Universal joints, front axle shaft. .315
Universal joints, propeller shaft. .325
Vacuum check valve .357
Valve clearance adjustment 164
Vehicle
cold weather protection 73
description 6
driving 44
equipment 22
identification 14
operation 35
run-in test 99
spare parts 25
special tools 27
tabulated data 16
tools 20
towing 52
Water pump
description 228
installation 229
removal 229
Water tank body—see body, water
tank
Wheel alinement 309
Page No.
Wheel cylinders
description 356
installation 357
removal 356
Wheel, steering 389
Wheels
bearing adjustment 373
cleaning and lubricating
bearings 375
description 366
hubs and bearings—banjo type.379
hubs and bearings—split type. . 383
replacement 369
spare wheel carriers 408
tightening 367
Winch
adjustments 441
automatic brake 443
cable 445
controls 54
data 441
description 440
drag brake 445
drive shaft and universal joint. . 446
installation 448
operation 54
removal 447
shear pin replacement 58
Windshield
installation 416
operation 49

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1 ••*

WAR D E P A R T M E ff^T E C H N I C A L MANUAL

CMC CCKW-352 & 353

This is a reprint of TM 9-801 for Hock

only and tail! not be issued to individuals

possessing the original publication

TRUCK, 2V2-TON, 6x6

(CMC CCKW-352 and 353)

* This manual, together with TM 9-1801 and TM 9-1802A, supersedes the

TM 10-1105, 18 Jul 1941 TM 10-1269, 19 Jan 1942

TM 10-1147, 26 Aug 1941 TM 10-1501, 12 Jul 1941

TM 10-1253, 8 Oct 1941 TM 10-1563, 1 Jul 1942

In addition, this manual supersedes the following:

TM 9-801, 12 Apr 1943 OFSTB 10-1501-1, 6 Apr 1943

OFSTB 801-1, 6 Apr 1943 OFSTB 801-4, 24 Jan 1943

OFSTB 10-1147-1, 6 Apr 1943

It also supersedes applicable portions of the following:

OFSTB 800-15, 14 Jul 1943 TB ORD 26, 9 Feb 1944

TB ORD 13, 12 Jan 1944 TB ORD 32, 18 Feb 1944

TB ORD 20, 24 Jan 1944

Washington 25, D.C., 24 April 1944

TM 9-801, 2V2-ton 6x6 Truck (CMC CCKW-352 and 353) is pub-

lished for the information and guidance of all concerned.

[A.G. 300.7 (20 Nov 43) ]

BY ORDER OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR:

The Adjutant General.

DISTRIBUTION: D 7 (5); B 18 (2); R 9 (4); Bn 2,4,5,6,7,8,9,17,

18, 44 (2); C 9 (8); 1C 2,4,6,7,8,10,17,18,44 (2).

(For explanation of symbols, see FM 21-6.)

(CMC CCKW-352 & 353)

PART ONE— GENERAL

SECTION I. Introduction .................. 1-2 5-6

II. Description and tabulated data .. 3-5 6-19

III. Tools, parts, and accessories ..... 6-10 20-27

PART TWO-OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

IV. Controls and instruments ....... 11-15 28-35

V. Operation under usual conditions 16-23 35-54

VI. Operation of auxiliary equipment 24-28 54-69

VII. Operation under unusual condi-

tions ....................... 29-35 69-79

PART THREE— MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS

VIII. Lubrication ................... 36-37 80-98

IX. New vehicle run-in test ......... 38-40 99-103

X. First echelon preventive mainte-

nance service ............... 41-45 103-114

XI. Second echelon preventive

maintenance ................ 46 114-137

XII. Power plant trouble shooting and

diagnosis ................... 47-59 137-150

XIII. Power train and miscellaneous

trouble shooting and diagnosis . 60-74 150-161

XIV. Engine description, data, mainte-

nance, and adjustment on

vehicle ..................... 75-82 161-177

XV. Engine removal and installation . 83-85 178-186

XVI. Ignition system ............... 86-90 186-196