TM 5-1202 SCRAPER LeTOURNEAU MDL SUPER C TOURNAPULL WITH MDL LP CARRYALL LeTOURNEAU, 1944

v^
WAR D E P AH M E N T TECHNICAL MANUAL
^SCRAPER, ROAD,
'^MOTORIZED,
CABLE-OPERATED,
12 CU YD, LeTOURNEAU
MODEL SUPER C
TOURNAPULL, WITH
MODEL LP CARRYALL
IAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS AND PARTS CATALOG
WAR DEPARTMENT MARCH, 1944
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SCRAPER, ROAD,
MOTORIZED,
CABLE-OPERATED,
12 CU YD, LeTOURNEAU
MODEL SUPER C
TOURNAPULL, WITH
MODEL LP CARRYALL
WAR DEPT. PURCHASE ORDER NO. C-6/40
WAR DEPT. PURCHASE ORDER NO. C-6545
WAR DEPARTMENT
Washington 25, D. C., (IMar. 44)
TM5-1202, Scraper, Road, Motorized Cable-
Operated, 12-Cu. Yd., LeTourneau, Model Super C
Tournapull, With Model LP Carryall, is published
for the information and guidance of all concerned.
(A.G. 300.7) 1 Mar. 44)
By order of the Secretary of War:
G. C. MARSHALL
Chief of Staff.
OFFICIAL:
J. A. ULIO,
Major General,
The Adjutant General.
. *. *
DISTRIBUTION: , /- ^
X (For explanation of Symbol see FM 21-6)
Annies(lO); Corps(lO); SvC(lO); Def Comd(2);
D(2); B(2); 1C 5(2); Tech Sv(2). 1C 5: T/0 &
E-5-267 , Engr Base Dep Co; 5-377, Base Equip Co;
5-412, Hq & Hq & Sv Co, Avn Regt.
TABLE OF CONTENTS ^N v -^
Description of Machine ^ . Preface
OP6RRTIOR 56CTIOR
SECT. 1
Functions 2 thru 29
Specifications 30 thru 33
Preparation for Initial Operation 34 and 35
Operating Instructions 35 thru 59
Safety Precautions 60 and 61
Operation under Dusty, Muddy, Low Temperature, High
Temperature and Other Abnormal Conditions 62 and 63
Operator's Maintenance 64 thru 115
Lubrication 67 thru 76
Fuels and Care of Fuel System 77 thru 81
Care of Engine and Accessories 82 thru 89
Operator's Adjustments 90 thru 103
Tire Inflation and Tire Care 105 thru 108
Cable Threading 108 thru 113
Preparation for Storage H .......... 116
Preparation for Export Shipment . .... 116
R6PRIR S6CTIOR
SECT. 2
Tournapull Repair Section
(Disassembly, Assembling, Adjustments) 121 thru 174
Engine Repair Section
(Disassembly, Re-assembly, Adjustment) 175 thru 263
Power Control Unit Repair Section
(Disassembly, Re-assembly, Adjustments) 265 thru 292
Scraper Repair Section
(Disassembly, Re-assembly, Adjustments) 293 thru 302
Table of Clearances and Tolerances 304 and 305
Trouble Shooter's Guide 306 thru 323
PRRTS CRTRLOG
SECT. 3
Engine Section 328 thru 370
Electrical Section 371 thru 390
Tournapull Section 391 thru 423
Power Control Unit Section 424 thru 434
Scraper Section 435 thru 456
Hydraulic Brake Section 457 thru 466
Spare Parts and Price List 467 and up
M5745-1
v>
INDEX
NOTE: The following index is in three parts: (1) OPERATION SECTION
INDEX, (2) REPAIR SECTION INDEX, and (3) PARTS CATALOG INDEX.
Generally speaking, the Operation Section Index should be referred to for operating
instructions and maintenance to be performed by the operator (1st and 2nd echelons),
the Repair Section Index for repair and servicing instructions to be performed by
maintenance and repair men (3rd, 4th and 5th echelons), and the Parts Catalog Index
for ordering parts. ^
OPERATION SECTION INDEX
A Page
ADJUSTMENTS
Drive Belts 86
Flywheel Clutch 94
Hydraulic Brakes 96
Idling Governor 89
Injector Plunger 87
Power Control Unit Brakes 98
Power Control Unit Brake Shaft Bearings. 100
Power Control Unit Clutch Adjustment. . 101
Steering Brakes 92
Steering Clutches 90
Valves 89
(For additional adjustments, see Repair
Section Index)
AIR CLEANERS
Care of 82
How Overspeeding affects Air Cleaners... 83
AIR PRESSURES (See Tire Inflation)
AMMETER (See Instruments and Controls
on Dash Panel)
APPLYING BRAKES 44
BATTERIES (See Electrical Equipment)
BELTS (See Drive Belts)
BLADES 114
Changing Blades 114
BLEEDING HYDRAULIC LINES 104
BOOSTING PRODUCTION 58
Eliminating Lost Time 58
Eliminating Turns 59
Using the Rooter 58
BRAKES (See Steering Brakes or Hydraulic
Brakes)
CABLE
Cable Requirements (See Scraper
Specifications)
Cable Threading 110
Care of 108
Replacing Spiral Sbeave-to-Tailgate
Cable 113
Replacing Springpipe Cable 112
Threading Cable onto Power Control
Unit 109
CHARGING CIRCUIT (See Functions of
Electrical Accessories
CHECK VALVES (See Fuel Inlet
Connection Check Valves)
CLEANING FUEL PUMP SCREEN 78
CLUTCH (See Flywheel Clutch, Steering
Clutch, or Power Control Unit Clutch)
COMPRESSION RELEASE LEVER
(Use of) 38
CONTROLLING SCRAPER WITH
POWER CONTROL UNIT 45
COOLING SYSTEM
Care of 84
Functions of 15
Operating Temperatures 39
CRANKING CIRCUIT (See Functions
of Electrical Accessories)
OPERATION SECTION INDEX - Continued
FUNCTIONS (continued) Page
Power Control Unit 29
Steering Clutch and Final Drive
Assemblies 27
Transmission 25
GENERATOR
Functions of
(Also see Repair Section Index)
GOVERNOR (See Fuel Pump)
GREASING (See Lubrication)
GROUND PLATES
Changing of
HANDLING SPECIAL MATERIALS.
HAUL ROADS
Maintenance of
HYDRAULIC BRAKES
Adjustment
HYDRAULIC LINES
Bleeding of
. 17
US
. 54
. 53
. 96
.104
89
IDLING GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENT ...
INJECTOR \
Functions of ........................ 13
INJECTOR PLUNGER ADJUSTMENT . . 87
INSTRUMENTS AND CONTROLS
ON DASH PANEL ................ 36
INTRODUCTION ................. Preface
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS (continued) Page
Operating Cycle 46
Operating Temperatures 39
Operating Under Abnormal Conditions... 62
Preparation for Initial Operation 34
Returning to the Cut 52
Safety Precautions 60
Shifting Gears 40
Starting and Stopping Engine 38
Steering 42
Traveling to the Fill 50
Unloading or Spreading 51
OPERATING TERMS 35
OPERATOR'S MAINTENANCE 64
Don'ts 66
Servicing Interval Chart 64
OVERSPEEDING, Effect on Air Cleaners. . 83
POWER CONTROL UNIT
Brake Adjustment 98
Brake Shaft Bearing Adjustment 100
Clutch Adjustment 101
Functions of 29
Lubrication \ . . 71
Specifications 33
PREPARATION FOR EXPORT
SHIPMENT 116
PREPARATION FOR INITIAL
OPERATION 34
PREPARATION FOR STORAGE 116
PRIMING PUMP AND VALVE (See
Fuel Pump)
OPERATION SECTION INDEX - Continued
STEERING CLUTCH AND FINAL Page
DRIVE ASSEMBLIES
Functions of 27
STEERING CLUTCHES
Adjustment 90
Functions of 27
STOPPING 44
STORAGE
Preparation for 116
TOURNAPULL (continued) Page
Specifications 32
TRANSMISSION
Functions of 27
TRAVELING TO THE FILL 50
UNLOADING OR SPREADING 51
TACHOMETER (See Instruments and
Controls on Dash Panel)
TEMPERATURES, Operating 39
TIMING
Diagram 15
Fuel Pump Timing 87
TIRES
Care and Maintenance of Tiree 106
Tire Inflation 105
TOURNAPULL
Lubrication 73
VALVE ADJUSTMENT 89
VOLTAGE REGULATOR (See Regulator)
WIRING DIAGRAM 85
Charging Circuit 20
Cranking Circuit 21
REPAIR SECTION INDEX
A Page
ADAPTOR NECK (Power Control Unit)
Assembling 280
Disassembling 274
Installing 280
Removing 274
ADJUSTMENTS
Engine Adjustments (Including
Accessories ) 254
Cranking Motor Checks and
Adjustments 260
Drive Belts 256
Fuel Pump Timing 255
Generator Checks and Adjustments. . . .257
Idling Governor Adjustments 256
Injector Plungers 254
Regulator Checks and Adjustments ... 258
Valves 255
(Also see Operation Section Index)
Power Control Unit Adjustments
Cable Drum Bearings 282
Main Gear Bearings 285
Scraper Adjustments
Fairlead Sheave Housing Bearings.... 302
Wheel Bearings 301
Tournapull Adjustments 166
Drawbar 173
Final Drive Axle Bearings 168
Final Drive Pinion Bearings 166
Spiral Bevel Gear and Pinion Lash
Adjustment 170
Spiral Bevel Gear Carrier Bearings. ... 170
REPAIR SECTION INDEX - Continued
Page
CUP WIPER (Engine)
Replacement of 187
CUT-OUT RELAY (See Regulator)
CYLINDER HEADS
Assembling t 190
Disassembling 190
Installing 247
Removing 179
CYLINDER LINERS (Engine)
Cleaning 181
Inspection of 183
Installing 242
Removing 181
Repair of 186
DASH PANEL
Installing 155
Removing 135
DECK PLATE
Installing 163
Removing 125
DISASSEMBLING
Engine and Accessories 176
Scraper 294
Tournapull 124
DISCONNECTING TOURNAPULL
FROM SCRAPER 122
DISTRIBUTOR (See Fuel Pump)
DRAWBAR
Adjustment 173
Installing 156
Removing 126
DRIVE BELTS
Adjustment 256
Inspection of 183
Installing 251
DRIVING CONES (Power Control Unit)
Installing 278
Removing 270
Re-lining 288
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
Checks and Adjustments 257
Cranking Motor 260
Generator 257
Regulator 258
Electrical Equipment Troubles 315
Repair of
Cranking Motor 228
Generator 219
Regulator 224
Series-Parallel Switch 234
ENGINE
Assembling 237
Disassembling 176
Engine Troubles 309
Inspection of Engine Units 183
Installing 154
Removing 135
Repair of Engine Units 185
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
Installing , 249
Removing 176
Servicing 194
FAIRLEAD SHEAVE HOUSINGS
AND BEARINGS
Removing 296
HYDRAULIC BRAKES '(continued) Page
Removing Master Cylinder 137
Servicing Wheel Cylinders 295
IDLING GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENT 256
INJECTOR DRAIN MANIFOLD
Installing 250
Removing 178
INJECTORS
Assembling 199
Assembling Injector Cup 199
Assembling Plunger 200
Inspecting Fuel Spray 200
Inspection for Check Valve Leak 199
Injector Plunger Adjustment 254
Installing 247
Removing 179
Servicing Injector 194
Cleaning Injector Cups 198
Injector Check Valve 195
Injector Cup 194
Injector Plunger 195
Inspection of Injector Cup Spray Holes. 196
Replacing Body Plug and Top Plate. . . 196
INSPECTION OF PARTS FOR
REPLACEMENT OR REPAIR
Engine and Accessories 183
Scraper 299
Tournapull 144
INTAKE MANIFOLD
Installing 249
Removing 176
Servicing 194
LEVERS (See Steering Clutch Levers,
Brake Levers, Power Control Unit
Levers, etc.)
LINERS (See Cylinder Liners)
LUBRICATING OIL LINES
Inspection of 192
Installing 249
Removing Lines 180
Removing Oil Pipe 180
LUBRICATING OIL PUMP
Assembly 189
Disassembly 189
Installing 245
LUBRICATION OF ENGINE DURING
REPAIR AND ASSEMBLY 252
MAIN BEARINGS (Engine)
Inspection and Repair of Bearing Caps. .185
Inspecting Bearing Shells 183
Installing 237
Installing Bearing Caps 238
Removing Bearing Caps 182
Replacement without Pulling Crankshaft. 239
MAIN GEAR AND DRIVING CONE
ASSEMBLIES (Power Control
Unit)
Installing 278
Removing 270
MAIN GEAR BEARING ADJUSTMENT.285
MANIFOLDS. (See Intake, Exhaust,
Water, or Injector Drain Manifolds)
MOTOR (See Engine)
Page
SERIES-PARALLEL SWITCH
Assembling 236
Disassembling 234
Inspection of 235
SERVICING INTERVAL CHART 117
SHEAVE WHEELS, BEARINGS, PINS, etc.
Removing 296
SOLENOID (See Series-Parallel Switch
or Cranking Motor Solenoid)
SPIRAL BEVEL GEAR
Installing 161
Lash Adjustment 170
Removing 129
SPIRAL BEVEL GEAR CARRIER
BEARING ADJUSTMENT 170
SPIRAL BEVEL PINION
Installing 153
Lash Adjustment 170
Removing 138
STAY-BOLTS
Installing 158
Removing 133
STEERING BRAKES
Installing Brakes 161
Installing Brake Levers 164
Re-lining Brake Bands 174
Removing Brakes 127
Removing Brake Levers 126
( Also see Operation Section Index)
STEERING CLUTCH
Assembling 160
Clutch Slippage 306
Disassembling Clutch 130
Improper Steering 307
Installing 161
Installing Clutch Levers 164
Re-lining Driving Cones 174
Removing Clutch 130
Removing Clutch Levers 126
STEERING CLUTCH AND SPIRAL
BEVEL GEAR ASSEMBLY
Assembling 161
Disassembling 128
Installing 162
Removing 127
TABLE OF CLEARANCES AND TOLER-
ANCES OF BEARINGS AND AD-
JUSTABLE PARTS 304
TAILGATE
Removing 298
TAILGATE RETURN SPRINGS
Removing 298
TAILGATE ROLLERS, BEARINGS,
PINS, etc.
Removing 296
TESTING COMPRESSION 256
THERMOSTATS
Replacing 192
TIRES
Installing 165
TIRES (continued) Page
Removing 124
TOOLS SUPPLIED WITH MACHINE 120
TOURNAPULL
Adjustments 166
PARTS CATALOG INDEX - Continued
Page
Cranking Motor Commutator Assembly
Exploded 378
Cranking MotorCross Section 376
Cranking Motor Drive End Frame
AssemblyExploded 381
Cranking Motor Frame fit Field
AssemblyExploded 380
Cranking MotorGeneral Exploded View. .377
Cranking Motor Solenoid SwitchExploded 382
Cranking Motor Solenoid Switch
Terminal Assy.. Exploded 383
Crankshaft. Main Bearing. Etc 336
Cut-Out RelayExploded 390
Cylinder Block 329
Cylinder Block 330
Cylinder Head 328
Cylinder. MasterExploded 457
Cylinder for WheelExploded 466
Cylinder for WheelSectional 465
Daih Group 420
Deck Group 414
Distributor 360
Drawbar Group 418
Drive Pulley, Belts & Fan 369
Exhaust Group 422
Exhaust Manifold 351
Final Drive AxleExploded 409
Final DriveCross Section 407
Final Drive PinionExploded 408
Float Chamber 363
Flywheel & Flywheel Housing 352
Flywheel ClutchCross Section 393
Flywheel ClutchExploded 394
Fuel Pump Assembly Drawing 356
Fuel Pump Main Housing 357
Fuel Pump Main Shaft & Governor 362
Fuel Tubing 364
Gear Case Cover 333
Gear Pump 361
Generator Commutator End Assembly
Exploded 374
GeneratorCross Section 371
Generator Drive 335
Generator Drive End Frame Assembly. . . .375
Generator Frame 8t Field Assembly
Exploded 373
GeneratorGeneral Exploded 372
Hand Hole Cover 332
Handle Group for PCU 433
Head Lamp Group 421
Idler for PCUExploded 429
Injector 366
Injector Inlet & Outlet Conn 365
Lubricating Oil Tubing 343
Lubricating Pump 344
Main Body Assembly 437
.438
.439
.440
.441
.442
Main Body Sub Assembli
THE LeTOURNEAU SUPER C TOURNAPULL
WITH LP CARRYALL SCRAPER
Designed for high speed, long haul earth moving, the LeTourneau
Super C Tournapull and LP Scraper combine the power of a tractor
with the speed of a truck. By giving faster hauling speed the Tournapull
has extended Carryall Scraper efficiency beyond limited tractor dist-
ances. Designed especially for use with the LeTourneau Model LP
Carryall Scraper, which has a heaped capacity of 15.0 cubic yards, the
Tournapull, when not used in this capacity, can also be used with other
tools, such as Tournacranes and Tournatrailers.
The 150 H. P. diesel engine which powers the Super C Tournapull
provides plenty of power for all operations. The large, low pressure
pneumatic tires provide ample flotation and make for ease of handling
and maneuverability in restricted areas. The LeTourneau Model T
Power Control Unit mounted on the rear of the Tournapull supplies
quick, positive, cable control for the Scraper. Like other LeTourneau
equipment the Super C Tournapull is built to stand up under the tough-
est of job conditions.
ENGINE
TOURNAPULL
POWER
CONTROL
UNIT
SCRAPER
PRINCIPAL UNITS
The Super C Tournapull and LP Carryall Scraper are connected
together to form a single, self-propelled, earthmoving machine. It is
neither a Tournapull nor a Scraper alone, but is a Tournapull _and
Scraper combination.
The complete machine is often times incorrectly referred to by
many as the Super C Tournapull. Actually, the Super C Tournapull is
only the tractive or propelling unit, extending forward from the double
universal hitch, while the Scraper is that part of the machine extending
to the rear from the double hitch, which, with the assistance of the
Tournapull, performs the earthmoving operations of loading, hauling
and spreading.
The Scraper is cable controlled by the Power Control Unit
mounted on the rear of the Tournapull. The Power Control Unit re-
ceives, its power from the Tournapull engine, and is operated by the
Tournapull operator. The engine, although a part of the Tournapull, is
a complete unit within itself and is covered separately in the instructions
in various parts of the Manual.
The functions of individual parts and assemblies which make up
these four major unitsTournapull, Scraper, Power Control Unit and
Engine are explained between pages 2 and 29 of the Operation
Section.
TOURNAPUH NAMEPLATE-LO-
CATED ON REAR OF DECK
PLATE
CARRYALL SCRAPER NAME-
PLATE-LOCATED AT REAR OF
SCRAPER
CARRYALL
SERIAL NUMBER
R. G. LETOURNEAU, INC.
POWER CONTROL UNIT
SERIAL NUMBER
R. G. LETOURNEAU, INC.
OfORIA ILL t, STOCKTON. CALIF
-.
POWER CONTROL UNIT NAME-
PLATE-LOCATED ON TOP OF
GEAR CASE
POWER CONTROL UNIT NECK
NAMEPLATE-LOCATED ON LEFT
SIDE OF NECK
LETOURNEAU
\ POWER UNIT NECK (
'SERIAL NUMBER
ENGINE NAMEPLATE-LOCATED
ON RIGHT SIDE OF ENGINE
NAMEPLATES
section
SECT. 1
OPCRflTIOR
DESCRIPTION OF SUPER C TOURNAPULL
WITH LP SCRAPER
The Super C Tournapull with LP Scraper can load, haul, and un-
load dirt or other material more efficiently than other types of earth-
moving machinery on most earthmoving jobs.
The reasons for this are that the Tournapull and Scraper is self-
loading (requiring only the assistance of a pusher tractor), can haul
the material for considerable distances at higher than normal speeds
when loaded, and can unload or spread the material in smooth, even
layers without assistance from other sources. Also, the Scraper's heaped
capacity of 15.0 cubic yards is greater than that of most self-propelled
earthmoving machines.
The Tournapull and Scraper require the assistance of only one
operator. Loading is accomplished by moving forward with the blade
lowered into the ground and with the apron at the front of the Scraper
bowl raised to permit dirt to enter the bowl.
Hauling is done with the blade raised a short distance above the
ground and with the apron lowered to hold the dirt in the bowl. To
unload, the apron is raised and the Scraper tailgate, which serves as
the rear end of the Scraper bowl and which rolls on rollers, is moved
forward.
Complete functions of the machine will be found on the following
pages.
OPERATION SECTION
FUNCTIONS
The Tournapull and Scraper are connected together by a double
universal hitch. The upper hitch is a ball and socket type connection
and the lower hitch is a drawbar type connection having a ball and
socket at either end. The double hitch allows side movement for turn-
ing (see below) and for travel over unlevel ground, and also supports
the front of the Tournapull and Scraper, making the Tournapull and
Scraper serve as a single machine, each part dependent on the other.
The principal mechanical functions are performed as follows:
The Scraper is hinged at the yoke hinge pins (A) for raising and lowering the
Scraper blade in or out of the ground. The actual raising and lowering of the blade
is accomplished by the Power Control Unit which, by spooling or unspooling cable
on or off the right cable drum, either increases or decreases the effective length
of pushbeam (B), thereby either raising or lowering the Scraper at hinge point
(A) and consequently also lowering or raising the blade in or out of the ground.
The Scraper apron (C) can be raised to allow dirt to enter the bowl by spooling
cable onto the Power Control Unit left cable drum, and can be lowered to hold
the dirt in the bowl by releasing the brake for the same cable drum.
Steering is accomplished by means of the Tournapull steering clutches. The
machine is -propelled or driven by the front wheels, known as the drive wheels.
By releasing the steering clutch on either side, the flow of power to the correspond-
ing drive wheel is stopped and that drive wheel ceases to turn, while the opposite
drive wheel continues to move forward under power of the engine. This causes
the Tournapull to turn, with the double hitch serving as the pivot point. By applying
the steering brake, the drive wheel to which the flow of power has been stopped is
locked, making possible shorter turns than might otherwise be obtained. The Scraper
follows in the path of the Tournapull when a change in the direction of travel is
made. By re-engaging the steering clutch and releasing the steering brake, the
flow of power will again be delivered in equal amounts to both drive wheels and
the Tournapull will then straighten itself out of a turn and continue to travel for-
ward in the direction in which the Tournapull is headed.
For ejecting or unloading dirt or other material that has been loaded into
the Scraper bowl, the Scraper is equipped with a tailgate (D) which serves as
the rear end of the bowl and which can be moved either to the front or rear
inside the bowl on rollers. The forward movement of the tailgate is controlled by
the Power Control Unit, while movement to the rear is performed by large coil
springs inside the springpipe above the bowl, known as tailgate return springs. The
Power Control Unit, by spooling the dump cable onto the left cable drum, raises
Scraper apron (C) and pulls tailgate (D) forward to eject the material inside the
bowl. Releasing the Power Control Unit brake allows the tailgate return springs
inside the springpipe to return the tailgate to the rear and the apron to lower after
the material has been ejected.
For further details of the loading and unloading procedures, refer to the
"Operating Cycle" on page 46 of Operation Section.
TURNING
EJECTING LOAD
RAISING AND LOWERING BLADE
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TOURNAPULL FUNCTIONS
PRINCIPLES OF ENGINE FUEL SYSTEM
The proper operation of the engine requires: First, that the engine
be maintained in good mechanical condition to insure proper compression
for ignition, proper lubrication, and cooling; and second, that the fuel be
measured and injected into the compressed air within the cylinder, in
the proper quantity and at the proper time.
The real difference between a gasoline engine and the Cummins
Diesel Engine lies in the fuel system. The fuel system can be compared
with the electrical system in the gasoline engine. In the gasoline engine,
the spark is timed to the spark plug. In the Diesel, the fuel is timed into
the injector and then into the cylinder.
Therefore, the problem is to understand the mechanism involved in
measuring the charge of fuel so that the proper amount for the speed
and power required will be delivered to the engine.
The charge taken in through the intake manifold consists of air only.
This charge of air is compressed to about 525 pounds, which causes it
to become heated to approximately 1000 F. This temperature is more
than sufficient to ignite the partially gasified fuel which is sprayed into
the cylinder at the right moment. The air intake manifold has no throttle
and therefore, regardless of speed or load, the compression is 525 pounds.
The fuel metering pump is mounted on the side of the engine.
The speed of the engine is controlled by varying the stroke of the fuel
metering pump, a very short stroke for idling, and a full stroke for a
full load.
The Cummins Engine used in the Tournapull differs from other
diesels in that the fuel sprayed into the combustion chamber is mainly
gaseous, instead of a finely atomized liquid. In the Cummins Engine,
the single metering plunger in the fuel pump accurately measures and
delivers under low pressure a charge of oil to the proper injector at
the proper time by means of a distributor.
The cam-operated injector builds up the pressure of the gasified
fuel as it is delivered to the cylinder. Because of this difference, the
maximum pressure in the liquid fuel system is only 75 to 150 pounds
instead of the 3,000 to 15,000 pounds commonly employed on other
types of diesels.
Since one plunger measures the fuel for all cylinders, all receive
the same quantity of fuel. The result is an unusual smoothness of
operation and lack of vibration.
Features combined in the Cummins Fuel System include:
1. Metering and delivering of fuel at low pressure.
2. Gasifying fuel before injection.
3. Control of the rate of injection.
4. Means of increasing turbulency in the combustion chamber.
How these four distinctive features are incorporated in the Cummins
System can be understood from a study of the fuel diagram and the
following text.
OPERATION SECTION
CROSS-SECTION
OF FUEL PUMP
THE FUEL PUMP
The fuel pump consists of four distinct units:
1. The GEAR PUMPS are located at the rear of the fuel pump
and consist of two separate pumps. One draws fuel from the fuel
supply tank and the second delivers fuel under low pressure to the
distributing unit.
2. The DISTRIBUTING UNIT which is located on top of the
main housing. The distributing unit has three functions.
A. It receives the fuel from the gear pump and delivers it at the right time to
the metering pump.
B. It houses the metering pump which accurately measures each charge of fuel
before delivery to the injector.
C. It allows delivery of the metered charge of fuel to the proper cylinder at the
proper time.
3. The MAIN HOUSING houses the mechanism that actuates
the metering pump. The float chamber is attached to the lower part
of the main housing and works in conjunction with the gear pumps.
4. The GOVERNING UNIT is located between the drive gear
and the main housing and acts to control the levers and linkage in the
main housing.
The description of the fuel travel and the part that each unit plays
is described in detail on the pages which follow.
10
FUNCTIONS
CROSS-SECTION OF FUEL PUMP
MAIN HOUSING
METERING PUMP: Con-
trol of the engine speed and
the load is obtained by vary-
ing the stroke of the one com-
mon metering plunger.
This is accomplished by
changing the position of the
actuating vertical lever in the
cam rocker lever race. The
plunger lever conveys the mo-
tion of the vertical lever
through a plunger lever link
to the metering plunger.
This motion is the same
as that obtained by resting a
pencil on a vibrating lever
hinged at one end. As the
pencil is moved closer to the
fulcrum, the stroke of the
pencil is shortened. As it is moved further from the fulcrum, the stroke
is lengthened. To repeat: the length of the stroke of the metering
plunger determines the amount of fuel it pumps to the injector.
DISTRIBUTOR: The distributing mechanism at the top of the
pump assembly has two functions. First, it allows the fuel from the
fuel supply line to pass to the metering pump as the plunger is on its
downward stroke.
Second, the distributor provides another passage from the meter-
ing pump to the injector next in firing order. This is accomplished by
means of the rotating distributor disc and the stationary distributor
cover to which the fuel lines to the individual injectors are connected.
The distributor works on exactly the same principle as a rotary
distributor on a multi-cylinder gasoline engine, except that passages are
used instead of wires to provide a path for fuel instead of electricity.
To prevent excessive leakage of fuel between the disc and cover,
they are held tightly together by a spring. When the engine is in opera-
tion, the fuel pressure furnishes lubrication between the disc and cover
and acts similarly to a Kingsbury thrust bearing to prevent scoring.
It must be borne in mind that in the fuel passage, from the
distributor to the metering pump, the fuel travels toward the metering
pump on the down stroke of the metering plunger, but, on the upstroke
of the metering plunger, the fuel travel is reversed and it goes from
the metering pump back to the distributor cover and to the proper
injector.
11
GEAR PUMPS: The fuel is supplied to the distributor by two
gear type pumps located at the extreme rear of the fuel pump assembly.
They are driven by the main pump shaft. The inner, or Number 1
pump, draws fuel from the fuel supply tank and delivers it to the
float chamber. When the float chamber is filled, the pressure against
the needle valve in the float chamber is greater than that required to
open the suction pump by-pass valve and thus another passage, or
by-pass route, is opened.
The check ball drops into its seat, and the fuel is recirculated
until such time as the valve at the float chamber is again opened by
the lowered float.
The outer, or Number 2 pump, draws fuel from the float chamber
past the check valve and supplies pressure through the screen and tube
to the fuel distributor. When sufficient pressure is built up in the lines
above the gear pump, the check valve closes off the supply of fuel from
the float chamber and opens a by-pass route for recirculation of fuel
around the gear pump.
The air pressure chamber helps to keep a constant pressure
against the fuel at all times. This pressure provides a cushioning effect
and prevents excessive wear and chattering of the gears. When enough
fuel is used to decrease the pressure against the regulator, the spring
pushes it upward, thus shutting off the flow of fuel through the by-pass.
The conical screen helps clean the fuel before it goes to the
distributor. The check valve assembly above the conical screen prevents
the return flow of fuel after the engine has been shut down.
The emergency control valve can be used in an emergency to
bring the speed of the engine under control. It should not be used except
in case of engine run-off as there is danger of scoring the distributor
disc or cover when the fuel is removed from the lines.
PRIMING PUMP AND VALVE: The hand priming pump draws
fuel from a connection just below the fuel inlet check valve and
delivers it to a connection on the pressure pump, thus by-passing the
gear pump. From this point, it can be forced to the injector when the
priming valve is opened. The purpose of the priming pump is to
bleed all fuel lines of air, or to provide a solid column of fuel from
the fuel tank to the injector.
The priming valve is located on the side of the distributor housing.
It provides passage for fuel during priming operations without the use
of the metering pump. When the priming valve is open, fuel under
pressure from the priming pump by-passes the metering pump. It is
most important that the priming valve be closed at all times the engine
is running. Otherwise, an excessive charge of fuel will be fed to the
injector and the engine will run at an uncontrolled speed.
12
OPERATION SECTION
GOVERNOR: The Governor has two distinct functions. First, to
keep the engine idling speed within 450 to 500 r.p.m. and second, to
prevent overspeeding of the engine above the maximum allowable
speed. This two speed governing action is accomplished by a flyball
governor acting on three springs;' an increased torque spring, an idling
spring, and a maximum speed spring.
When the engine is started and brought up to idling speed, the
governor weights work against the small idling spring. As the throttle
is opened by the operator and the engine speed exceeds 500 rpm, the
small idling spring becomes inactive and acts the same as a solid
sleeve. From this speed to maximum speed, the engine is controlled
by the hand control, or accelerator, which is connected by links to the
vertical lever. As the maximum speed of the engine is reached the
large governor spring takes control, limiting the revolutions to the
maximum rated speed of the engine.
FUEL INLET CONNECTIONS: After the metering plunger
forces the fuel in the distributor unit to the proper fuel supply line, it
passes through the injector fuel inlet connection before entering the
injector. The fuel inlet connection has a ball check valve and spring to
prevent any return flow of fuel.
All fuel lines from the fuel tank
to the injector remain full of fuel at
all times. Any additions of fuel
through the metering chamber will
push the same amount of fuel through
the injector and into.the injector cup.
INJECTOR
The injector is mechanically oper-
ated, receiving its motion from the
camshaft through rocker levers and
its push rod. It consists of a forged
body with a properly fitted plunger.
The length of the stroke of the injector
plunger remains constant at all speeds.
Mounted on the end of the injector
is the injector cup.
On the intake stroke of the engine,
the fuel metering pump forces a
charge of fuel of the exact amount
for the load and speed of the engine
into the injector cup past the check
valve. The check valve effectively
prevents any back flow of fuel during
the remainder of the cycle.
n.UN& SPUING
nilNGCR SEAL
CHICK VALVf
STOP
13
OPERATION
FUEL INJECTION CYCLE
broken up, or partially gasified.
After the fuel is delivered to the
injector cup, the injector plunger con-
tinues its up stroke. At the same
time, the piston moves upward on the
compression stroke and forces hot air
through the injector cup spray holes.
The fuel lies in the cup during a part
of the compression stroke of the en-
gine. The fuel oil in the tip of the
cup is exposed to the intense heat of
the compressed air in the cylinder
and thus the fuel is preheated and
(Second phase of illustration.)
A few degrees above top center, the plunger is forced downward
by the action of a cam, transmitted through a push tube and rocker
levers, and the preheated fuel charge is driven out through the six small
holes in the injector cup into the cylinder. These holes are only .006"
in diameter and the effect is to completely break up the fuel charge
and distribute it evenly through the compressed air in the top of the
cylinder. The air in the top of the cylinder is heated by compression to
approximately 1000 F. and the highly combustible fuel charge ignites
and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. (Third phase of
illustration.)
The injector plunger continues its down stroke during the first
part of the power stroke and, as more fuel is added, the pressure remains
fairly constant during several degrees of the stroke. The plunger re-
mains in its lowest position during the remainder of the power stroke
and during the exhaust stroke. (Last phase of illustration.)
CUP WIPER
The special air chamber provided on the top of each piston is
called the injector cup wiper. At the completion of the compression
stroke, the injector cup wiper holds from 6 to 7% of the total volume of
compressed air in the firing chamber. After the piston reaches a
certain point on its downward move-
ment of the power stroke, the com-
pression in the firing chamber de-
creases somewhat below that of the
air in the cup wiper. This air escapes
through the small hole in the top of
the cup wiper into the firing chamber.
Thus, additional oxygen is supplied
to the firing chamber around the tip
of the injector cup to create additional
turbulency and to provide for more
complete combustion.
14
TOURNAPULL FU N C T I QNS
SUMMARY
There are two phases of fuel travel. During the first phase, fuel
flows from the fuel tank through the Number 1 gear pump to the
float chamber, through the Number 2 gear pump, through the indexed
holes of the distributor to the metering pump. The metering plunger
is on its down stroke.
During the second, or final phase, the fuel travel is completed
when the distributor holes index to allow the fuel from the metering
plunger (on its up stroke) to pass to the injector. To this point, the
fuel is under low pressure. The injector forces the fuel at high pressure
into the cylinder.
STANDARD H
ENGINE R H
6CYL. FIRING ORDER: I- 5-3-6-2-4
"EXHAUST OPENS
CLOSES" refers to the open-
ing and closing of the ex-
haust valve.
"INTAKE OPENS
CLOSES" refers to the open-
ing and closing of the intake
valves.
"INJECTION BEGINS
ENDS" refers to the
downward travel of the in-
jector plunger. The point at
which actual fuel injection
begins is dependent upon the
amount of the metered
charge in the fuel cup and
other contributing factors.
THE COOLING SYSTEM
Water is circulated by a centrifugal type water pump mounted
on the gear cover end of the engine and driven by belts from a drive
pulley on the fuel pump main shaft.
The water circulates around each of the wet type cylinder liners,
through the cylinder head and around the injector sleeve housing in the
head. Special copper sleeves surround the injectors for fast dissipation
of heat. Discharge connections between the heads are provided by a
water manifold. The water manifold and water by-pass houses three
thermostats to control the operating temperature of the engine. The
engine cooling water, or solution, is cooled by the Tournapull radiator.
The radiator has 6 cores and a relatively high cooling capacity.
15
16
ENGINE ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES
BATTERY CHARGING GENERATOR
The generator is a machine for converting mechanical energy into
electrical energy. The generator is a three brush, four pole, 12 volt, 25
ampere unit, with over-size ball bearings in both the drive end and
commutator end supporting the armature. The generator current out-
put is regulated by means of an adjustable third brush and the voltage
is regulated by an external voltage regulator unit, described below.
The function of the generator is twofold. It restores to the batteries
the current withdrawn during cranking, thus maintaining the batteries
in a charged condition. Second, it carries the connected electrical load
up to the capacity of the generator, when the generator is operating at
speeds at which substantial or maximum generator output can be ob-
tained, thus preventing undue or prolonged draining of the battery.
REGULATOR
GENERAL DESCRIPTIONThe generator regulator is an elec-
tromagnetic device which operates to prevent the line voltage from
exceeding a predetermined value. There are two separate units in the
regulator, the cut-out relay and the voltage regulator. They are mounted
on the same base and under the same cover.
FUNCTION OF REGULATORThe function of the two units
in the regulator is as follows:
(1) Cut-out relay The cut-out relay closes the circuit between
the generator and the batteries when the generator voltage has built
up to a value sufficient to force a charge into the batteries. The cut-out
relay opens the circuit when the generator slows or stops and current be-
gins to flow back from the battery into the generator.
SCHEMATIC WIRING
DIAGRAM OF
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
AND GENERATOR
(2) Voltage regulatorThe voltage regulator prevents the line
voltage from exceeding a predetermined value and thus protects the
battery and other electrical units in the system from high voltage. One
characteristic of batteries is that as either the specific gravity or charging
rate increases, other conditions being the same, the battery terminal
voltage increases. If the terminal voltage is held constant as the battery
comes up to charge (specific gravity increases), the charging rate will
be reduced. The voltage regulator performs this job of holding the
voltage constant and it consequently protects the electrical system from
high voltage and the battery from overcharge.
17
OPERATION SECTION
CRANKING MOTOR
GENERAL DESCRIPTIONThe cranking motor is a twelve
brush 24 volt, six pole, heavy duty unit with the armature supported by
three bushings at the drive end, center, and commutator end. The unit
has a heavy duty cranking motor solenoid switch mounted on it and em-
ploys a Dyer drive to mesh the drive pinion with the flywheel for cranking
the engine and to demesh the drive pinion when the engine begins to
operate. A shift lever in the drive housing is connected by linkage to
the solenoid switch, so that operation of the solenoid switch not only
closes the circuit between the battery and cranking motor, it also shifts
the drive pinion into mesh. Operation of the shift lever first shifts
the drive pinion into mesh and completion of the shift lever movement
closes the cranking motor switch so current can flow from the battery
to the cranking motor so cranking of the engine can take place. As soon
as the engine operates, the engine drives the pinion back out of mesh so
excessive speeds cannot be transmitted back to the cranking motor
armatures.
FUNCTION OF CRANKING MOTORThe cranking motor elec-
trically cranks the engine so that the engine will start and run. Current
from the Tournapull batteries is utilized to operate the cranking motor;
this current being subsequently replaced in the batteries by operation of
the Tournapull's electric generator.
Dyer DriveThe Dyer drive provides positive meshing of the drive
pinion with the engine flywheel before the cranking motor switch is
closed and demeshes the drive pinion as soon as the engine begins
to operate. The complete drive is assembled on the spirally splined
armature shaft and consists of thrust washers, shift sleeve, pinion guide,
pinion spring, pinion stop and cotter pin. The pinion has splines on
its inner diameter which are a loose fit on the armature splines. The
pinion guide has splines on its inner diameter which are a fairly snug
fit on the armature splines. Two lugs on the pinion guide engage into
lateral slots in the pinion. A stud on the shift lever engages in a spiral
slot in the shift sleeve. When the shift lever is operated, the stud, resting
SHIFT SLEEVE
on a flat portion of the shift sleeve slot, forces the shift sleeve, pinion
guide, and pinion, endwise along the armature shaft. If the pinion and
flywheel teeth align, meshing takes place and further movement of the
shift lever closes the cranking motor switch so that cranking is ac-
complished. If the pinion and flywheel teeth do not align and the teeth
butt, the drive pinion is caused to rotate against the flywheel teeth with-
18
out forward movement so that alignment and meshing do take place.
This rotation of the pinion is caused by the fact that the pinion is a
loose fit on the armature splines, while the pinion guide is a fairly
snug fit. As the shift lever movement continues (after the teeth butt)
the pinion guide continues to move endwise along the armature shaft,
compressing the pinion spring. The pinion guide rotates and transmits
this rotational movement through the pinion guide lugs and slots in
the pinion, to the pinion so that it rotates without forward movement.
The pinion rotates only a few degrees until the teeth align and meshing
can take place. Then, further shift lever movement closes the cranking
motor switch and cranking is accomplished. As soon as the armature
begins to rotate, the shift sleeve spins back out of the way and the
driving'torque of the armature through the pinion holds the pinion in
mesh with the flywheel. When the engine begins to operate, it attempts
to drive the cranking motor armature, with the result that the pinion
is driven faster than the armature is turning and the pinion consequently
is spun back out of mesh and returns to the demeshed position. The
pinion guide drops into a milled section on the armature splines so
that it and the pinion are locked in the demeshed position. Before the
pinion can again be shifted into mesh, the shift lever must be released
so the stud on the shift lever can rotate the shift sleeve, come to rest
again on the flat portion of the shift sleeve slot and then move the
entire assembly forward as already decribed.
SOLENOID SERIES PARALLEL SWITCH
a. GENERAL DESCRIPTIONThe solenoid series-parallel start-
ing switch is an electromagnetic device which makes it possible to use a
24-volt cranking motor with a 12-volt electrical system.
b. FUNCTION OF SWITCHFour 6-volt batteries are used in the
electrical system with the series-parallel starting switch. (These batteries
are wired in pairs, each pair serving as one 12-volt battery). For charging
and also for furnishing the necessary electrical power to operate the
lights and other electrical accessories, the batteries are connected in
parallel, furnishing a 12-volt source of supply. When the series-parallel
starting switch is operated, the parallel connections are broken and the
batteries are connected in series to furnish a 24-volt source of supply
for the cranking motor.
The electrical system in which the series-parallel switch is used
incorporates the principle of both one and two wire systems. The 12-
volt equipment which includes the generator, regulator, lighting and
accessory loads, is grounded so that they form a single wire system.
Thus, for this part of the system, the frame of the vehicle completes
the circuit. The two wire principle is involved only upon cranking of
the engine. The cranking motor itself is fully insulated. When the
engine is running and the generator is delivering current, the cut-out
relay in the regulator is closed and allows the current to flow to the
lighting and accessory loads and to the batteries to maintain them in
a charged condition.
19
ARMATURE
CHARGING CIRCUIT
(1) Charging CircuitWhen the series-parallel switch is in the
position for normal operation of the Tournapull and the batteries are
parallel connected, the circuit is as follows: From the generator it leads
through the voltage regulator and ammeter, to the "A" terminal of the
series-parallel switch. From this terminal, half the current flows through
batteries "A" (left hand batteries). The other half flows through the
closed contacts of the series-parallel switch and out at the "B" terminal.
From here it by-passes the cranking motor solenoid and cranking motor
and flows through batteries "B" (right hand batteries). From the positive
( + ) terminal of batteries "B" it enters series-parallel switch through
"+B" terminal and is grounded on the case of the series-parallel switch.
(2) Cranking circuitWhen the starting control switch is oper-
ated, the solenoid winding in the series-parallel switch is energized which
20
OPERATION SECTION
HORNS LIGHTS
n AMMETER
REGULATOR
CRANKING CIRCUIT
moves the contact disc toward the switch terminals. Just before the disc
makes contact, the movement of the plunger actuates a small secondary
plunger inside the switch which breaks the parallel connections. Further
movement of the main switch plunger forces the contact disc against
the main switch contacts, additional plunger movement connects the
cranking motor solenoid to ground through the series-parallel switch
so 24 volts is impressed on the solenoid. The cranking motor solenoid
operates, shifting the cranking motor drive pinion into mesh and
closing the cranking motor switch contacts. The cranking motor now
operates on 24 volts. The series cranking circuit is through batteries "A",
the closed contacts in the series-parallel switch, batteries "B", the crank-
ing motor, and main switch terminals of the cranking motor solenoid
back to batteries "A".
21
PEDAL
SHAFT
Dl ATE
CLUTCH
FLYWHEEL
RING LEVER
RING ADJUSTING
FLYWHEEL CLUTCH
CUT-AWAY VIEW OF
FULCRUM PRESSURE
FUNCTIONS OF FLYWHEEL CLUTCH
The flywheel clutch serves as a connecting link between the
engine and transmission, by means of which the flow of power from the
engine to the transmission can be broken for the purpose of shifting the
transmission gears, starting and stopping.
The flywheel clutch is a heavy duty "push" type, single disc clutch
and is mechanically controlled by the foot pedal. It is mounted to the
engine flywheel and enclosed within the engine flywheel housing and
clutch housing at the front of the transmission case.
The clutch is normally in the engaged position, and the flow of
power passes from the engine, through the clutch, and to the trans-
mission. To break the flow of power to the transmission, the clutch is
disengaged by the operator by depressing the clutch pedal.
When the operator presses down on the clutch pedal with the
foot, the pedal moves forward, thereby turning the clutch release yoke.
The arms extending up from the release yoke bear against the clutch
bearing carrier and when turned, move the carrier forward. The clutch
release bearing, which rides on the bearing carrier, bears against the
floating sleeve and, when moved forward with the carrier, pushes the
floating sleeve forward toward the engine flywheel. When the floating
sleeve moves forward toward the flywheel, the twenty ball bearing hinged
levers in the fulcrum ring, known as pressure levers, also move toward
the flywheel at their inner ends. At the same time the outer ends of
these hinged pressure levers move in the opposite direction, allowing
the retractor springs to pull the pressure plate away from the lined
driven plate.
When the pressure plate backs away from the lined driven plate,
the driven plate is no longer clamped between the flywheel and pressure
plate, and no longer turns with the two. The driven plate is splined with
the clutch shaft extending out of the front of the transmission, and
therefore the shaft stops turning when the driven plate ceases to turn
with the flywheel and pressure plate, and the flow of power from the
engine to the transmission is broken.
To re-engage the clutch and thereby renew the flow of power from
the engine to the transmission, the foot should be released from the
clutch pedal. This permits the pressure spring to return the floating
sleeve and bearing carrier to the rear, thereby causing the pressure
levers to move forward at their outer ends, and thus forcing the pressure
plate forward, tight against the lined driven plate.
The driven plate now turns with the engine flywheel and pressure
plate, and the flow of power is delivered to the transmission through
the clutch shaft as the shaft turns with the driven disc.
23
GEAR SHIFT LEVER
REVERSE LATCH
SHIFTING MAINSHAFT
YOKES I
3RD AND 4TH SPEED \ SPRING
SLIDING CLUTCH
SPIRAL
BEVEL
PINION
CLUTCH
SHAFT
AND
DRIVE
GEAR
1ST SPEED
SLIDING
GEAR
COUNTERSHAFT
REVERSE
CUT-AWAY VIEW OF TRANSMISSION
24
FUNCTIONS OF TRANSMISSION
The Tournapull makes use of a heavy duty transmission having
four forward speeds and one speed in reverse. Its principal purpose is
to make it possible for the operator to select any one of four gear ratios
for forward travel and one for reverse, depending upon the amount of
power that needs to be delivered to the drive wheels during the varying
phases of operation and the direction in which it is desired to travel
front or reverse.
The transmission has the standard four speed forward shift, and is shifted in the
conventional manner.
Shifting gears is accomplished by movement of the gear shift lever by the oper-
ator as is explained below.
The lower end of the gear shift lever extends down into horizontal slots in the
upper ends of the shifting forks. When the shifting forks are in neutral position, the
slots in the forks line up with one another, making it possible to move the gear
shift lever sideways, into the slot in any one of the three forks.
The illustration on the opposite page shows the transmission in 1st speed.
To obtain 1st speed, the upper end of the gear shift lever should first be moved
to the left when in neutral position. This causes the lower end of the gear shift
lever to move to the right, into the slot in the 1st and 2nd speed shifting fork.
Then, with the lower end of the gear shift lever positioned in the slot in the 1st
and 2nd speed fork, move the upper end of the gear shift lever forward, thereby
causing the lower end of the lever to move to the rear. This movement of the
lower end of the shift lever to the rear forces the 1st and 2nd speed shifting fork
also to the rear, moving the 1st speed gear to the rear on the mainshaft, and
thus causing the teeth on the 1st speed gear to move into mesh with the cor-
responding teeth of the rear gear on countershaft. Since the countershaft turns
constantly when the engine is running and flywheel clutch engaged, the 1st speed
gear is turned by the countershaft gear and in turn the 1st speed gear turns the
mainshaft, due to it being splined on the shaft. When the main shaft turns, the
spiral bevel pinion also turns, thereby delivering power to the spiral bevel gear
and steering clutches.
When the shifting fork is moved to the rear to shift into 1st gear, the shifting
bar on which the fork is mounted also moves to the rear. When the shifting bar
reaches its rear position, a small spring pushes a steel ball down into a half round
seat in the bar, locking the shifting bar and shifting fork and preventing them
from moving out of gear of their own accord. The operator overcomes the com-
pression of the spring and causes the ball to raise up out of its seat in the shifting
bar when moving the gear shift lever back to neutral position.
The two larger steel balls lying between the shafts and the small interlock
pin in the center shaft prevent the transmission from being shifted into two gears
at once. The steel balls are forced out of the groove in one shifting bar and into
the groove in another when a shifting bar is moved out of neutral, thereby locking
the other bars.
2nd, 3rd, 4th and reverse speeds are obtained in somewhat the same manner
as 1st speed.
The 2nd, 3rd, and 4th speeds have constant mesh helical gears and are engaged
by sliding clutches which require a relatively short shift. Reverse speed, like 1st
speed, is a sliding spur gear which requires a longer shift to make full engagement
of the mating gears. The reserve latch on the side of the gear shift lever must be
raised to permit the shift lever to be moved into reverse speed position.
The flow of power in each of these speeds can be traced on the cut-away illu-
stration on opposite page. When the transmission is in neutral, the flow of power is
broken at the transmission.
25
.STEERING CLUTCH LEVER
RIGHT
STEERING
CLUTCH
DRIVEN
CONE
EXTERNAL
SPLINED
DRIVING
CONE
INTERNAL
SPLINED
DRIVING
CONE
SLIDING
SPIDER
FINAL DRIVE
PINION
DRIVE
WHEEL
CUT-AWAY VIEW OF STEERING CLUTCH AND FINAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY
26
FUNCTIONS OF STEERING CLUTCH AND
FINAL DRIVE ASSEMBLIES
The power of the engine is delivered back to the spiral bevel pinion and gear
through the flywheel clutch and transmission.
With the flywheel clutch engaged and the transmission in gear, the spiral bevel
pinion is turned by the engine. The spiral bevel pinion turns the spiral bevel gear
and gear carrier, thus delivering the flow of power to the steering clutches, which ride
on the ends of the gear carrier shafts.
When the steering clutches are engaged, the flow of power passes through the
clutches to the final drive pinions and in turn to the final drive gears, axles and wheels,
causing the wheels to turn and the machine to move.
With both steering clutches engaged, the flow of power is delivered to both drive
wheels equally, and both wheels turn at the same rate of speed, causing the Tournapull
to move straight ahead or to the rear, depending upon whether the transmission has
been shifted into a forward speed or into reverse.
For turning, the operator disengages one of the steering clutches while leaving the
other clutch engaged. The flow of power continues to pass through the steering clutch
that remains engaged but is broken at the clutch that is disengaged, resulting in one
drive wheel continuing to move forward while the other ceases to turn.
The releasing of one of the steering clutches to stop the flow of power to a drive
wheel can be supplemented by engaging the corresponding steering brake, thereby
locking the wheel.
A steering clutch is disengaged by the operator pulling back on the clutch control
lever.
The linkage between the control lever and clutch throw yoke is put in motion
when the control lever is pulled back, actuating the clutch throw yoke and causing it
to turn in the bushings in the main case and deck plate, in which it pivots. The arms
on the clutch throw yoke (broken in the cut-away illustration or. opposite page) swing
in an arc away from the clutch cones as the yoke is turned, moving the throw-out
collar and sliding spider away from the clutch cones. The movement of the sliding
spider causes the clutch engaging links and fingers to change their position, with the
ends of the engaging fingers moving away from the thrust collar of the external splined
driving cone. The driving cones free themselves from the driven cone when these
engaging fingers no longer bear against the external splined driving cone, thereby dis-
engaging the clutch and stopping the flow of power from the driving cone to the driven
cone, allowing the driven cone to stop turning.
The steering brake levers are linked with the steering clutch levers in such a way
that the brake levers travel to the rear with the clutch levers. By moving the clutch
lever to the extreme rear position, past the point where the clutch becomes disengaged,
the brake lever is moved back far enough to cause the steering brake to take hold. The
brake band encircles the outer circumference of the clutch driven cone and when the
brake lever is moved to the rear, either with the steering clutch lever or separtaely, the
brake linkage and actuator lever also move to the rear, tightening the brake band on
the cone. This stops the final drive pinion, gear, axle and wheel from turning and
assures shorter turning than might be obtained by disengaging the clutch alone.
When the steering clutch levers and brake levers are moved forward again into
normal position the brake releases and the clutch parts move back into their original
engaged position.
27
28
FUNCTIONS OF
POWER CONTROL UNIT
Power Control Unit pinion (1) is connected
with Tournapull lower transmission shaft by
a splined connector shaft, known as "spline
shaft". When Tournapull engine is running
with flywheel clutch engaged, the engine turns
lower transmission shaft, causing Power Con-
trol Unit pinion (1) to turn. Pinion then turns
reduction gear (2) which turns left main gear
(3) which then turns right main gear (4).
Each main gear and driving cone (assembled
as one unit) ride on bearings on clutch throw-
nuts (7) and (8) and turn constantly when
Tournapull engine is running with flywheel
clutch engaged.
The clutches are engaged by moving control
levers (not illustrated). When moved to the
left, the shorter control lever causes lever rod
(5) to actuate brake cam (6), clamped around
throw-nut (7) thereby engaging left clutch.
Likewise, when moved to the left, the longer
control lever causes a similar lever rod and
brake cam (not shown), clamped around
throw-nut (8), to engage right clutch. (In-
asmuch as both right and left clutch and cable
drum assemblies are alike, only the right as-
sembly, shown in cut-away, is explained.)
When control lever is moved to engage clutch,
throw-nut (8) turns on drum shaft (9), ad-
vancing throw-nut to rear on threads on shaft.
Rotating main gear (4) and driving cone
(10) are carried to rear with throw-nut, and
driving cone (10) is brought into contact with
driven cone (11), thereby engaging clutch.
Driven cone (11) and cable drum (12) now
turn, spooling cable onto drum.
To disengage clutch and thereby stop spool-
ing of cable onto cable drum, the control lever
is returned to its original neutral position. As
the control lever is returned, brake cam and
clutch throw-nut (8) turn with lever, causing
main gear and driving cone to be moved for-
ward away from driven cone, thereby disen-
gaging clutch. Cable drum (12) is held by
self energizing brake which takes hold when
control lever is in neutral.
To release brake to permit unspooling of
cable off cable drum, control lever is moved
to the right out of neutral position. (Inas-
much as both the right and left brake assem-
blies are alike, only left brake assembly will
be explained.) By moving control lever to
release brake, brake cam (6) moves against
brake roller (13), causing roller and lower
end of roller arm (14), to be moved outward.
This movement of roller arm, which is clamped
to end of brake shaft (15), causes brake shaft
to rotate. Rotation of brake shaft (15) causes
linkage (16) connecting end of brake shaft
with brake band (17) to raise band away from
drum, thereby releasing brake.
To re-engage brake, return control lever to
neutral position.
11
29
OPERATION SECTION
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
MODEL: Super C Tournapull with Model LP Carryall Scraper and Model T
Power Control Unit.
OVERALL MEASUREMENTS
Length 32' 2"
Width 10' 2"
Height, Blade on ground 11' 2"
TIRES
Tournapull 2 (21.00 x 24) 20 ply
Scraper 2 (18.00 x 24) 20 ply
WHEEL BASE 22' 0"
CLEARANCE
Under Tournapull Drawbar 25"
At rear of Scraper Bowl 17"
WIDTH REQUIRED FOR NON-STOP TURN 40'
GAUGE (Width center to center of tires)
Tournapull 6' 2"
Scraper 6' 6"
APPROXIMATE SHIPPING WEIGHT 31,000 Ibs.
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
MODEL Cummins HBID-600
TYPE Valve-in-head Diesel
GOVERNED SPEED 1800 R.P.M. Max.
BRAKE HORSEPOWER 150 at 1800 R.P.M.
NO. OF CYLINDERS 6
BORE 4V
STROKE 6"
PISTON DISPLACEMENT 672 cubic inches
COMPRESSION PRESSURE . 500-525 Ibs.
CYLINDER HEADMATERIAL Cast Iron
CYLINDER HEAD NUT TENSION 430-450 ft. Ibs.
MAXIMUM OVERSIZE PERMISSIBLE TO AVOID WEAKENING
CYLINDER WALL 040"
FIRING ORDER R.H. 1-5-3-6-2-4
COMPRESSION RATIO 17:1
OIL PAN CAPACITY 5 gal.
OIL FILTER CAPACITY Approx. 1 gal. ea.
HEAD GASKETMATERIAL Special Metal Asbestos
VALVES
INTAKEAngle of Valve Seat 30
Clearance, hot 014"
EXHAUSTAngle of Valve Seat 30
Clearance, hot 022"
VALVE SPRINGS
INTAKESpring Pressure
Valve Open 129 to 143 Ibs.
Valve Closed 83 to 91 Ibs.
Free Length 3 19/32"
EXHAUSTSpring Pressure
Valve Open 129 to 143 Ibs.
Valve Closed 83 to 91 Ibs.
Free Length 3 19/32"
30
OPERATION SECTION
PISTONS
Available Oversized Pistons 020", .030", .049", and finisned
Clearance, Running:
Cast Iron 004" to .005"
Grinding Used Cam
Fitting None
PISTON PINS
Diameter 1.9988" to 1.9990"
Oversize Available 005" and .010"
Method of Fastening Lock Rings
Fit in PistonThumb Push Fit 0005" to .0007"
PISTON RINGS
Compression Oil
Number 3 2
Width Vs" 3/16"-V4"
Type 1 wedge
Groove Clearance:
2 lap joint 0025" to .0035"
Butt joint 0022" to .003"
Gap Clearance, Wedge:
2 lap joint 015" to .020"
Butt joint 015" to .018"
CONNECTING RODS
Bearing Clearance 004" to .005"
End Clearance -.006" to .008"
Length (center to center) 11.998" to 12.000"
Undersized replacement bearing available:
Size 020", .030", .040", .050", .060"
Rod and Piston Assembly Removed from top of block
Nut Tension 105 to 115 ft. Ibs.
MAIN BEARINGS
Type Precision Type, Steel Backed
Number 7
Undersized Replacement Bearings Available 010", .020", .030", .040"
End Thrust 006" to .008"
Bearing Clearance 0055
Bearing Adjustment for Wear None
Nut Tension 310 to 330 ft. Ibs.
TIMING GEARS
Adjustment None
Valve Timing Right Hand
Intake Opens 5 BTC
Intake Closes 45 ABC
Exhaust Opens 49 BBC
Exhaust Closes 13 ATC
CRANKSHAFT GEARNo. of teeth 36
CAMSHAFT GEARNo. of teeth 72
IDLER GEARNo. of teeth 48
ACCESSORY DRIVE GEARNo. of teeth 23
FUEL PUMP GEARNo. of teeth 36
LUBRICATING OIL PUMP GEARNo. of teeth 30
CAMSHAFT
Type Steel Forging
Journal Diameter 1.997" to 1.998"
Bearing Clearance 0015 to .003
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
Number 7
Diameter Inside . . 2.000" to 1.995"
31
OPERATION SECTION
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)
Length:
No. 1 21/4"
No. 2-4-6 I'/s"
No. 3-5 2%"
No. 7 2 11/16"
Bearing Clearance 0015" to .003"
CRANKSHAFT
Main Journals 4.499" to 4.500"
Connecting Rod Journals 3/124" to 3/125"
CRANKSHAFT BEARINGS
Number 7
Diameter Inside 4V4"
FUEL SYSTEM Cummins
STARTING METHOD Electric Cranking Motor
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Delco-Remy
BATTERIES
Number 4
Volts; '.'.' 6 ea.
Amp. hrs 12
Plates 25 ea.
ENGINE ACCESSORIES
GENERATOR
Rotation Counterclockwise viewing drive end
Brush spring tension
Main brushes 25 oz.
3rd brush 17 oz.
Cold output 24-26 amps, at 13 volts at 1600 R.P.M.
Hot output 18 amps, at 13 volts at 3000 R.P.M.
Field current 1.39-1.47 amps, at 12 volts
REGULATOR
Cut-out Relay
Air gap 057"
Point opening 020"
Closing Voltage 13.5 volts
Voltage Regulator
Point opening 015"
Voltage setting 15.0 volts
CRANKING MOTOR
Rotation Clockwise viewing drive end
Brush spring tension 36-40 oz.
No load 85 amps, at 22.0 volts at 6000 R.P.M.
Lock test 25 Ib. ft. at 500 amperes at 3.0 volts
TOURNAPULL SPECIFICATIONS
MODEL Super C Tournapull
SPEED IN M.P.H.
1st gear 2.6
2nd gear 4.4
3rd gear 8.1
4th gear 14.3
Reverse 2.2
STEERING
Each wheel controlled by heavy duty double cone clutch and contracting
brake, using metallic lining and running in oil.
TRANSMISSION
Model Fuller, Model 4-B1-86
32
OPtKATION SECTION
FLYWHEEL CLUTH
Model Lipe, single disc, Model Z-42-SX
Type disc 15" heavy duty
WHEELS
Axle 6" diameter
Bearings '. Tapered Roller
POWER CONTROL UNIT SPECIFICATIONS
MODEL -. T
CABLE DRUMS
Number and Mounting 2, rear
Diameter 7%"
Length 7%"
Flange Diameter 13"
OPERATION Mechanical from Tournapull Gears
GEAR REDUCTION (Power Control Unit Only) 7.74 to 1
GEAR REDUCTION (Including reduction in Transmission) 13.83 to 1
LINE PULL
Bare Drum 4000 Ibs.
Full Drum up to 2540 Ibs.
LINE SPEED
Bare Drum (ft. per min.) 277'
Full Drum (ft. per min.) 409'
CABLE CAPACITY 186'
SCRAPER SPECIFICATIONS
MODEL LP
CAPACITY
Struck, cubic yards 12.1
Heaped, cubic yards 15
BOWL
Height of sides 4' 43/4"
Dimensions of bottom 4' 11" x 8'6
Type of bottom Double
CUTTING EDGE
Length 8' 6"
Dimensions
Center section Va" x 16" x 56"
Each tip 3/4" x 13" x 23"
Type Reversible, hard surfaced
WHEELS
Axle y/t," diameter, supported both ends
Bearings Tapered Roller
Brakes .... 17" x 4" Bendix brake assembly actuated by Wagner
Electric hydraulic system
CABLE REQUIREMENTS (Type: 6 x 19 Preformed Tournarope)
Dump Cable (Size V2") 126|
(Furnished in Storage reel) 500'
Tailgate Forward Cable (Size 7/s") 51'
Apron Lift Cable (Size '/8") 14'6"
Hoist Cable (Size Vi") 105'
Springpipe Cable (Size 5/8") 17'
Spiral Sheave-to-tailgate Cable (Size 5/8") 13'6"
TYPE OF EJECTION Forward, Positive, Mechanical
LIFT OF APRON 48V4"
MAXIMUM DEPTH OF SPREAD 17"
MAXIMUM DEPTH OF CUT . , 8"
33
OPERATION SECTION
PREPARATION FOR INITIAL OPERATION
If Tournapull and Scraper arrive partially disassembled, it will
first be necessary to assemble the machine. (Refer to assembling in-
structions in Repair Section.)
After the machine has been completely assembled, thread the cable
through the sheave housings as outlined in the cable threading instruc-
tions on page 110 of the Operation Section.
Check cable alignment to determine whether it is fouling at any
point.
Check all points of lubrication to determine if properly lubricated.
(Refer to lubrication instructions on page 67 of Operation Section.)
Check oil level in engine crankcase, Power Control Unit gear case,
Tournapull main case and transmission. Make sure that the cork is
removed from the breather hole in the oil fill plug for the Power
Control Unit gear case.
Check fuel level in the fuel tanks. Make sure the supply is ade-
quate to prevent running out of fuel inasmuch as this might result in
damage to the fuel pump discs.
Check radiator for water or cooling solution.
Check water in batteries.
Check electrical system and wiring to make sure that all terminals
and points of connection are tight, fuses in place, etc. (Refer to in-
structions on page 84 of Operation Section.)
Make sure engine is free, properly adjusted and primed. Release com-
pression and bar engine over several times to see that it is free before
starting. Check fuel pump timing (page 87 of Operation Section).
Check injector plunger adjustment (page 87 of Operation Section).
Check valve adjustments (page 89 of Operation Section). For instruc-
tions for priming the engine refer to page 80 of Operation Section.
If engine is already primed but has not been operated for a long
period, pump the fuel pressure to 80 or 90 pounds on the fuel pressure
gauge with the hand priming pump. This is done to prevent excessive
cranking of the engine and to prevent scoring of the distributor discs.
Make sure Power Control Unit brake bands are not frozen to driven
cones, by moving control levers to lock-out position.
Check steering clutch adjustments. (Refer to page 90 of Operation
Section.)
Check steering brake adjustments. (Refer to page 92 of Operation
Section.)
Check flywheel clutch adjustments. Refer to page 94 of Operation
Section.)
34
OPERATION SECTION
Check Power Control Unit brake adjustments. (Refer to page
98 of Operation Section.)
Check Power Control Unit clutch adjustments. (Refer to page
101 of Operation Section.)
Check hydraulic brake adjustments. (Refer to page 96 of Operation
Section.)
Raise and lower Scraper apron and also pull tailgate forward and
allow it to return to the rear position, checking for free movement.
Check tire pressures, making sure the correct inflation is used for
the particular job conditions under which the Tournapull is to be
worked. (Refer to tire inflation instructions on page 105 of Operation
Section.)
Make sure safety cable is in place and correctly installed.
OPERATING TERMS
THE CUTPlace where Tournapulls and Scrapers are loading.
THE FILLPlace where Tournapulls and Scrapers are unloading.
FINISHINGLeveling or smoothing the surface of a finished cut, fill,
slope, or other plot of ground.
PUSHER LOADINGLoading dirt into Scraper when the power of
the Tournapull is being assisted by another tractor pushing from
the rear.
35
OPERATION SECTION
HORN ENGINE
BUTTON SHUT-OFF
CONTROL
START tR
SWITCH
AMMETER
TACHOMETER
WATER EMERGENCY
TEMPERATURE SHUT-OFF
GAUGE CONTROL
VIEW OF DASH PANEL
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
INSTRUMENTS AND CONTROLS ON DASH PANEL
The new operator should acquaint himself with the controls and
indicators on the Tournapull dash panel.
For this reason, the following description of each control and indi-
cator is given.
The horn button is the first control on the dash panel, when read-
ing from left to right.
The second control is the engine shut-off control, with which the
engine can be stopped. Pull out the engine shut-off control, thereby
stopping the flow of fuel to the injectors and shutting off the engine.
(Tilting the foot throttle back with the foot also performs the same
function.) Turn the engine shut-off control V turn after pulling it
out to leave it in the released position.
36
OPERATION S E C T I O N
The next control from the left is the starter switch. When starting
the engine, press in on the starter switch, thereby cranking the engine.
The instant the engine starts, the starter switch should be released.
Four instruments or indicators are grouped together in an oval in-
strument board which is located in the center of the dash panel. These
instruments are the tachometer, ammeter, water temperature gauge, and
oil pressure gauge.
The water temperature gauge should be watched closely so that
if the water temperature should run too high or too low, it will be
immediately noticed. (See "Operating Temperatures" on page 39.)
The purpose of the tachometer is to indicate the speed or number
of revolutions per minute at which the engine is turning. Also, the tach-
ometer contains a revolution counting odometer which records in
hundreds the number of revolutions turned over by the Tournapull
engine. From this odometer reading the number of hours that the ma-
chine has operated can be obtained by use of the following formula:
ODOMETER READING
~ 840 HOURS OF OPERATION.
The ammeter indicates to what extent the batteries are charging or
being discharged, and the oil pressure gauge indicates, as the name im-
plies, the engine lube oil pressure. The operating pressure should be be-
tween 30 Ibs. and 50 Ibs. If the oil pressure drops to the danger point
(below 30 Ibs. pressure), the engine should be stopped immediately and
the cause investigated and corrected.
The switches for the headlights and Scraper light are located on
the instrument board, as shown in the illustration.
Located to the right of the oval instrument board is the emergency
shut-off control. By pulling out this control, the engine can be stopped
in an emergency in event it should "run-off" and refuse to be stopped
by pulling out the engine shut-off control or by tilting back the foot
throttle, because of mechanical difficulties. (Refer to instructions for
stopping engine on following page.) If the emergency shut-off control
is used to stop the engine, the shut-off valve must be re-opened before
again starting the engine.
Two foot throttles, or accelerators, are also mounted into the dash
panel as illustrated. These foot throttles are within comfortable reach
of the operator and are connected together so that either the left or
right foot may be used in controlling the engine speed.
In addition to the controls and indicators on the dash panel, there
is a fuel pressure gauge on the left side of the engine near the fuel
pump which warrants mention. The fuel pressure in a new engine or
in one in good condition should normally be 75 Ibs. to 150 Ibs. maximum
when running at operating speed. If the fuel pressure should drop very
far below 60 Ib. at idling speed, the engine should be stopped and the
cause investigated and corrected.
37
OPERATION
COMPRESSION 1
RELEASE LEVER
STARTING AND
STOPPING ENGINE
To start the engine, first shift the
gear shift lever into neutral position.
Also push in engine shut-off control.
Press the foot throttle down to the
point where it catches at low idle
speed, thereby opening up the flow
of fuel to the injectors. (For starting
in low temperatures refer to Cold
Weather operating instructions on
page 62 of Operation Section.)
If the engine has been idle for a
long period, pump the fuel pressure to
80 to 90 pounds on the fuel pressure
gauge with the hand priming pump.
This is done in order to prevent exces-
sive cranking of the engine and to
prevent the scoring of the distributor
discs. (If the engine is being started
for the first time, refer to "Preparation
for Initial Operation" on preceding
page.)
For normal starting, push in on the
starter switch, thereby cranking the
engine with the cranking motor and
starting the engine. Release the
starter switch the instant the engine
starts.
A compression release is provided
on the engine to relieve the pressure
in the cylinder when turning the en-
gine over to make valve and injector
adjustments. This compression release
may be used in case of low batteries
or in cold weather when engine oil is
stiff. Release the compression and
start the engine spinning with the
cranking motor. When the engine has
acquired the highest possible momen-
tum, close the compression release and
continue to hold the starter switch
down until the engine fires.
38
SECTION
To stop the engine, either tilt the
foot throttle back with the foot or pull
out the engine shut-off control, there-
by stopping the flow of fuel to the
injectors. As a safety measure, the
engine shut-off control can be turned
one quarter turn after it has been
pulled out, thereby locking it in the
released position.
In event the engine should "run-
off' because of mechanical diffi-
culty and refuse to stop running by
tilting back the foot throttle or pulling
out the engine shut-off control, the en-
gine can be stopped by pulling out the
emergency shut-off control. The en-
gine will continue to run for a minute
or two after operating the emergency
shut-off control, but will then starve
of fuel and stop running. The emer-
gency shut-off must be re-opened be-
fore the eng'ne can again be started.
(IMPORTANTUse emergency shut-off only in case of emergency when engine
cannot be stopped in conventional manner previously described, because of danger
of scoring distributor discs. Do not pull compression release lever when engine is
running faster than idling speed or damage will result to the valves.)
When shutting down for the night or for a period of time, always
cover the exhaust pipe to keep water from entering.
EMERGENCY
SHUT-OFF
CONTROL
OPERATING TEMPERATURES
1. Serious damage may be caused to the engine by operating at
temperatures either too high or too low. The recommended operating
temperature is from 160 to 165 F. for both oil and water.
2. If the oil or water temperatures run over 180, it is a indica-
tion of inefficiency in the cooling system, faulty lubrication or of some
other condition that must be corrected. (Consult Trouble Shooter's
Guide at rear of Repair Section.)
3. Operating the engine at a temperature below 140 F. will result
in loss of power, carbon formation, etc., as listed in Trouble Shooter's
Guide.
4. Consult temperature and pressure gauges frequently.
39
OPERATION SECTION
SHIFTING
GEARS
The Tournapull transmission has four forward speeds and one
speed in reverse. To shift gears, push the flywheel clutch pedal all the
way down with the foot, thereby releasing the clutch, and shift the
gear shift lever into the position that will obtain the desired transmission
speed.
First speed is to the left and forward; second, to the left and rear;
third, to the right and forward; and fourth, to the right and rear. (See
diagrams on opposite page.)
Bring the Tournapull to a full stop to shift into reverse gear. Press
down on the small release latch below the knob on the gear shift lever,
and shift to the extreme right and to the rear.
The shifting from one forward speed to another may be done
while the Tournapull is traveling.
When shifting into higher speeds, increase the speed of the Tourna-
pull by speeding up the engine. Take the foot off the foot throttle and
at the same time release the clutch. Move the shift lever quickly
into the next higher speed position and immediately, but gently, engage
the clutch. Speed the engine up as soon as the clutch is engaged. In
40
OPERATION
order to avoid "clashing" the gears, a slight
pause may be necessary in neutral, or it may
be necessary to "double-clutch" when shifting.
In other words, it may be necessary to depress
the clutch pedal and move the gear shift
lever into neutral and then let up on the
pedal before again depressing the pedal and
moving the control lever into the next higher
speed.
Whenever the engine labors or slows down
due to heavy pulling, shift into a lower speed.
To do this, push the clutch pedal down far
enough to release the clutch and shift quickly
into the next lower gear before the Tourna-
pull loses headway. "Double-clutching" is
normally necessary in this operation to avoid
clashing gears.
Keep the engine speed up when shifting
into a lower speed, as the engine must run
faster when pulling in lower gear.
When coasting down hills, leave the trans-
mission in gear and the clutch engaged. Sud-
den engagement of the clutch under this
condition is undesirable.
Do not ride the clutch pedal. Any pressure
put on the clutch pedal lessens the engage-
ment of the Clutch and tends to create clutch
slippage.
When shifting gears, always make sure
that the gears are in full mesh by moving the
shift lever fully into its position.
The design of the transmission insures posi-
tive engagement with ease in shifting. If the
gears become difficult to shift, an inspection
should be made to determine the cause. (Re-
fer to "Trouble Shooter's Guide" at rear of
Repair Section.)
41
1st SPEED
2nd SPEED
3rd SPEED
4th SPEED
REVERSE
STEERING
The steerinpof the TvAel^'is accomplished by the action of
two steering clutches( one foWacn wheel) and two corresponding steer-
ing brakes.
The steering clutches are controlled by means of the two steering
clutch control levers and the brakes are controlled by the two brake
levers.
The steering clutches are normally in the engaged position. When
the steering clutch control levers are brought into play, the clutches are
disengaged, thereby stopping the flow of power to the drive wheels.
Therefore, when either steering clutch lever is moved back toward the
operator, the corresponding drive wheel ceases to turn with the opposite
wheel, thus providing the steering action. By instantly opening up the
throttle in varying amounts when steering, the experienced operator
can accurately control the shortness of the turn.
In addition to using a steering clutch in turning, it is necessary
at times to also engage the corresponding steering brake for immediate,
positive response and for very short turns.
The brake control levers are linked with the steering clutch controls
in such a way that when a clutch lever is pulled back to disengage a
clutch, the corresponding brake lever is moved to the rear with the
steering clutch lever. By pulling the steering clutch lever back past
the disengaged position and to the extreme rear, the brake takes hold.
(With the brakes and steering clutches correctly adjusted, there should
be a brief interval between the point where the steering clutch becomes
disengaged and the point where the brake takes hold.) The brakes can
be controlled independent of the steering clutches by pulling back the
brake levers alone.
The steering clutches are actuated by over-center linkages and the
operator must therefore re-engage the clutch by pushing the control lever
forward into the normal engaged position to straighten the machine out
after having made the desired turn. The steering clutch levers toggle
over-center with a fair amount of pressure when properly adjusted.
42
For normal steering the left steering clutch control lever should
be pulled back toward the operator to turn to the left, and the right
steering clutch lever should be pulled back to turn to the right. Pull the
control levers to the extreme rear to apply the brakes for short turns
or for immediate response to the movement of the control levers.
When the machine is coasting, applying the hydraulic Scraper
brakes to hold back the Scraper also usually helps in bringing about
the desired response to the movement of the clutch levers.
In traveling down steep hills where the loaded Scraper is tending
to push the Tournapull and is being held back by the compression of
the engine, the operator should be alert for any tendency of the Tourna-
pull to "cross-friction". By "cross-friction" is meant the tendency of the
machine to turn opposite to the direction it normally does when releasing
a steering clutch. The reason for this action is that when the loaded
Scraper is pushing and the speed of travel is being held back by the
compression of the engine, releasing a steering clutch will tend to
speed up the corresponding drive wheel, rather than slow it down,
giving an action opposite that which is obtained under normal condi-
tions when traveling forward under the power of the engine.
Steering under the above conditions can usually be accomplished
by releasing the right steering clutch to turn to the left and releasing
the left steering clutch to turn to the rightexactly opposite the manner
in which steering is normally accomplished. This is known as "cross-
frictioning." Applying the steering brake on the side opposite the steering
clutch that is disengaged often helps to bring about the desired response.
However, because of the confusion and safety hazard that is likely
to result when steering by "cross-frictioning", especially with inexperi-
enced operators, it is a good practice to operate the machine in such a
manner that the necessity for "cross-frictioning" is avoided as much as
possible. In other words, when traveling down hill with a fully loaded
Scraper, shift into lower gear and apply the Scraper brakes in order to
keep the machine under control. Operate the engine with the throttle
only partially opened in order to have sufficient reserve engine speed
to pull the machine around when turning by instantly opening up the
throttle.
By operating the machine in this manner, the tendency for the
machine to "cross-friction" when going downhill can be eliminated, and
the Tournapull can be steered in the conventional manner.
An operator will learn from experience how the Tournapull re-
sponds to the movement of the control levers. Until such time as he is
sure of himself, he should avoid traveling and steering over hazardous
terrain.
A precaution to watch when steering is to avoid turning so short
that the drive tires strike the yoke. This practice not only causes un-
necessary damage to the tires but also subjects the yoke to undue side
strains and places harmful shock loads on the teeth of the final drive
gears and pinions.
43
OPERATION
APPLYING THE
BRAKES
The Tournapull is equipped
with mechanical steering brakes
for the drive wheels and hydrau-
lic brakes on the Scraper wheels,
either or both of which can be
used for slowing down or stop-
ping the machine.
It depends largely upon the operator as to which of these brakes
are used for slowing down and making normal stops. It should be
kept in mind, however, that the main purpose of the steering brakes
is for steering and that the hydraulic brakes can be used only for slowing
down or stopping. Therefore, when it is necessary to apply the brakes
to slow down the machine and also have the steering brakes free for
steering purposes, the hydraulic brakes should, of course, be used.
For sudden, abrupt stopping, the combined use of both the steering
brakes and the hydraulic brakes is sometimes required, especially when
the Scraper is fully loaded. Also, in case of an emergency, a very ef-
fective method of stopping is to supplement the power of the brakes by
dropping the Scraper blade to the ground.
When traveling with a loaded Scraper down long steep inclines
which might cause over-heating of the brakes or when operating over
hazardous terrain, the blade can be lowered to the ground and dragged
down the hill to serve as a brake, providing that the haul road is not
paved or strewn with large rocks, boulders, etc., which would be in-
jurious to the blade and bottom of the Scraper.
Always apply the brakes or lower the blade to the ground to hold
the Tournapull back when going down a steep hill. Otherwise the ma-
chine might roll at faster than normal speeds, causing a safety hazard and
also causing the engine to turn over faster than governed speed, thereby
adding unnecessary abuse to the engine.
To apply the hydraulic brakes to the Scraper wheels, depress the
brake pedal with the foot. Since most operators operate the foot throttle
with the right foot, leaving the left foot free for use on the flywheel clutch
pedal, the operator must remove his right foot from the foot throttle to
depress the brake pedal in applying the brakes. Inasmuch as the operator
should at all times have one foot on the foot throttle in order to have
control over the machine, it is important that the left foot be placed on
the foot throttle before the right one is removed for applying the brakes.
(The dual foot throttles make this action possible)
To apply the steering brakes for slowing down or stopping, pull the
brake control levers to the rear. Movement of the brake levers in this
case should be independent of the steering clutch leversnot with the
clutch levers as is done when steering.
For instructions for lowering the blade to the ground to serve as
a brake, refer to the instructions for controlling the Scraper on the fol-
lowing page.
44
SECTION
CONTROLLING SCRAPER
WITH POWER CONTROL UNIT
The Scraper is controlled by means
of the Power Control Unit on the rear
of the Tournapull.
The longer control lever controls
the raising and lowering of the bowl.
Moving the lever toward the center of
the Tournapull (to the left) engages
the right clutch and raises the Scraper
bowl. Returning the lever to neutral
position applies the brake to the cable
drum and holds the bowl in the raised
position.
Moving the longer control lever
away from the center of the Tourna-
pull (to the right) releases the brake
from the cable drum and allows the
bowl to lower. Returning the lever to
neutral position applies the brake to
the cable drum and holds the bowl at
the level to which it was lowered.
The shorter Power Control Unit
control lever controls the apron and
tailgate. Moving the- lever toward the
center of the Tournapull (to the left)
engages the left clutch and raises
the apron. When the apron is raised
to its full height, the tailgate is then
pulled forward and the tailgate re-
turn springs inside the springpipe are
compressed. Returning the control
lever to neutral position applies the
brake to the cable drum and holds the
apron and tailgate in the position
desired.
Moving the control lever away
from the center of the Tournapull
(to the right) releases the brake from
the cable drum, allowing the tailgate
return springs to return the tailgate
to its original position at the rear of
the Scraper bowl, and also permits
the apron to lower.
45
OPERATION SECTION
THE OPERATING CYCLE
The operating cycle of the Tournapull Scraper includes the opera-
tions of loading, hauling, unloading or spreading, and returning to the
cut, as illustrated below.
The power for each of these operations is supplied by the Tourna-
pull engine.
The Tournapull is usually assisted by a pusher tractor in loading.
However, in hauling, spreading, and returning to the cut, the Tournapull
operates without the aid of a pusher.
The Power Control Unit, in controlling the working parts of the
Scraper, either spools or unspools the cable on or off the cable drums,
depending upon the movement of the control levers by the operator.
The operating cycle is explained below.
"--> I'
[i tT:-;>-, il-*:
^'"] ^\\ -'--"
fCpfe^,/:1:
5^fct^-
1. To load the Scraper enter the cut with the tailgate at the extreme rear of
the bowl and with the apron raised four to eight inches above the blade. Release
the hoist brake and lower the blade into the ground to the desired depth. As the
Scraper is moved forward the blade cuts into the ground and the dirt is forced
up into the Scraper bowl.
2. As the bowl is being filled the material will roll back against the tailgate
and forward against the apron, thereby assisting in closing the apron. When the
bowl is filled release the Power Control Unit dump brake to close the apron and
at the same time engage the hoist clutch and raise the bowl one or two inches above
the surface of the ground.
46
,---'x >^-
JfSaJh, ,,___Jj_
x"1
3. After pulling the Scraper ahead a few feet, spreading the material which
was in front of the blade, raise the bowl to the desired traveling position and pro-
ceed to the fill. The bowl should be carried at a height that will keep the Tourna-
pull motor level or raised slightly at the front.
m-
4. Upon arriving at the fill raise or lower the blade to the desired depth of
spread. Raise the apron to its full height by engaging the dump clutch, allowing
the dirt to fall out. Shake any sticky material from the back of the apron by re-
leasing the brake, dropping the apron about twelve inches, and then immediately
engaging the clutch to raise the apron again. Repeat this procedure in sticky ma-
terial if necessary.
\*zf=jpp&r^-i^
^<*'lNft,_ ,
MT*-e
M-^-TT^^-^f--^! //\ V ,f"\ v
J/J /MI 1\- j L ,-\/ \ 'f )'. i
'~=^/. Lt::=z]Ufc^f^-> N-_A ^^ /
/ "===^fet^ \
5. After the dirt has fallen out with the apron raised, re-engage the Power
Control Unit dump clutch, thereby pulling the tailgate forward to eject the
remainder of the load. Pull the tailgate forward approximately 12" at a time and
then allow it to return a few inches before pulling it forward again. When the
bowl is completely emptied release the Power Control Unit dump brake, allowing
the tailgate return springs inside the springpipe to return the tailgate to its rear
position and also lowering the apron about six or eight inches. The Scraper is now
in traveling position.
47
APRON RAISED
TAILGATE
AT REAR
6 TO 12 INCHES
OPERATING
LOADING
Although the Tournapull
has sufficient power and trac-
tion in most types of soil to
load the Scraper, the use of
a pusher tractor to assist in
loading is recognized by both
the manufacturer and user
alike as one of the necessities
for Tournapull-Scraper opera-
tion.
The reasons that the as-
sistance of a pusher tractor is
required in loading are that it makes possible larger loads, reduces
loading time and, last but not least, it lengthens immeasurably the life
of the traction tires. Pusher loading also lengthens Tournapull life.
The pusher tractor as referred to above is a tractor equipped with
an Angledozer or Bulldozer, which assists the Tournapull in loading by
pushing against the pusher block on the rear of the Scraper. Because of
the size of the Scraper and the horse-power required to fully load it,
it is recommended that nothing smaller than a Caterpillar D7 Tractor
be used in pushing, but a Caterpillar D8 tractor or tractor of similar
size is preferred.
To load the bowl of the Scraper and fully utilize its capacity, enter
the cut with the tgilgate in the extreme rear position and with the apron
raised approximately 6 to 12 inches.
Move forward with the pusher tractor pushing and lower the blade
into the ground, allowing it to penetrate to the desired depth. Keep
the apron low, leaving an opening just large enough for the dirt to
enter, but not so low as to
cause the dirt to bank up in
front of the blade.
Loading is normally done
with both the Tournapull and
pusher tractor operating in
first gear. In this operation,
the Tournapull should not be
operated at wide open
throttle. Let the pusher trac-
tor do the greater amount of
work. This will enable the
Tournapull operator to open
48
NSTRUCTIONS
RAISE BLADE 1" or 2" ABOVE
SURFACE OF GROUND WHEN
LOADED
up the throttle, if needed, to
straighten the machine out of
a turn or "Jack knife", and
will also reduce tire and
mechanical wear. It is highly
important that the Tourna-
pull and tractor move along
together in a straight line.
Avoid spinning the Tourna-
pull drive tires during the
loading process.
As the Tournapull and
tractor move forward, loading
the dirt into the bowl, the
material will fall forward against the apron as well as back against the
tailgate.
When the Scraper is fully loaded, lower the apron and raise the
blade an inch or two above the surface of the ground. Travel several
feet before raising the blade to a higher position. This will spread the
loose material in front of the blade and thereby leave the cut smooth
to pull in and out of.
The operator of the pusher tractor should ease the 'Dozer bowl
up to the pusher block on the rear of the Scraper when making contact
to start pushing. The pusher tractor should not stop pushing until the
blade has been raised out of the ground and the Tournapull operator
has shifted into traveling gear.
Extreme care should be used to prevent the 'Dozer blade from con-
tacting the rear tires and possibly cutting them. The operator of the
pusher tractor should try to avoid raising the rear tires off the ground.
A pulling tractor is sometimes used instead of a pushing tractor in
loading.
If possible, arrange the
work so that loading can be
done while traveling down
hill and in the direction of
travel. Extra yardage can
sometimes be obtained by
leaving a ridge about 3 feet
wide between successive cuts
when loading. Straddling this
ridge on the next trip makes
it possible to obtain larger
loads in less time.
LOAD DOWNHILL FOR MAXI-
MUM LOADS
49
ALWAYS ALLOW AT LEAST 10 CLEARANCE
BETWEEN PUSH- BEAM STOPS WHEN
TRAVELING^
OPERATION
TRAVELING TO THE FILL
Traveling to the fill with
a loaded Scraper is done in
the highest gear possible, de-
pending upon the condition of
the haul roads. Inasmuch as
maintenance of haul roads is
one of the important parts of
efficient Tournapull opera-
tion, Tournapull jobs are
usually such that traveling to
the fill can be done in fourth
gear.
Ruts, soft spots, or holes in the haul roads call for reduced speeds
and unnecessary gear shifting. Good haul roads not only make possible
increased speeds but also reduce the wear and tear on the equipment.
When traveling to the fill, the bowl of the Scraper should be carried
fairly close to the ground but high enough to clear any objects on the
haul road without having to continually raise and lower the bowl.
When carried at this height, the Tournapull engine will normally be
in a level position or only slightly raised at the front. With the Tourna-
pull engine lower in front, difficult steering would be experienced.
Carrying the Scraper bowl comparatively close to the ground pre-
vents danger of upsetting the Scraper. It also prevents traveling with
the pushbeam stops together which might cause breakage of the hoist
cable or upsetting the Scraper when making short turns to the left.
Provide several inches of clearance between the pushbeam stops at all
times when traveling.
When turning sharply to the right or left, the operator should be
careful not to damage the drive tires by bringing them into contact with
the Scraper yoke.
SECTION
APRON RAISED TO FULL HEIGHT
TO PERMIT DIRT TO FALL OUT
UNLOADING OR
SPREADING
Spreading is usually done
in the highest gear possible.
This, of course, is dependant
upon material and conditions.
Keep moving when unloading
do not stop.
Upon arriving at the fill
with the loaded Scraper,
either raise or lower the bowl
as required to give the desired
thickness of spread. Then engage the Power Control Unit left clutch,
raising the apron to its full height and allowing the dirt in the apron
to fall out. When the apron reaches its full height, disengage the clutch
and release the brake, allowing the apron to drop about twelve inches.
Then immediately engage the clutch and raise the apron again. If op-
erating in sticky material it may be necessary to repeat this operation
once or twice to dislodge the dirt from the back side of the apron. After
the dirt has fallen out of the apron re-engage the clutch and bring the
tailgate forward about twelve inches at a time, letting it move back a
few inches after each forward movement, until the bowl is empty. If
possible, stop the forward movement of the tailgate just before the
tailgate sliding sheave housing above the springpipe reaches the stop
block at the rear of the channel in which it slides.
It starting a new spread, the blade should be lowered slightly as
the rear wheels come up onto the dirt that is ejected, in order to
maintain an even depth of spread.
The operator should be careful not to force the load out too rapidly,
as this causes unnecessary strain on the tailgate and cable. Also, it might
cause the dirt to stack up in front of the blade, thereby adding additional
draft on the Tournapull. As the tailgate nears its forward position and
the load decreases, it is ad-
visable to use less pressure on
the Power Control Unit con-
trol lever, unless the pressure
is actually required to pull
the tailgate forward. By ex-
erting less pressure as the
tailgate nears its forward po-
sition, the clutch would slip
rather than the cable break-
ing, in event the tailgate
should accidently be brought
TAILGATE PULLED FORWARD TO
EMPTY SCRAPER
51
AT LEAST 10" CLEARANCE BE
TWEEN STOPS
so far forward that the tailgate sliding sheave strikes against the stop
block at the rear of the channel above the springpipe. Remember, how-
ever, that the clutch should not be allowed to slip during operation un-
less this extreme forward position is reached, and in this case it is done
only to prevent cable breakage. The operator should always disengage
the clutch immediately whenever the tailgate sliding sheave strikes the
stop block.
When the Scraper is completely emptied, return the tailgate to its
rear position and lower the apron. Then raise the bowl to the desired
traveling position and return to the cut. The operator should at no
time return to the cut with the apron raised and the tailgate in the
extreme forward position, because cable breakage would occur when
turning or when traveling over unlevel ground.
RETURNING TO THE CUT
Returning to the cut is done in as
high a gear as possible, depending on
the condition of the haul road. Effi-
cient Tournapull operation is depend-
ant upon good haul roads and it is
therefore important that the haul
roads be maintained to permit return-
ing in high gear.
When returning, the bowl should be
carried at a height that will keep
the Tournapull motor level or with
the front slightly raised. Never carry
the bowl so low that it will not clear
rocks or obstructions in the path of
travel. Carrying the bowl reasonably
low to the ground prevents upsetting.
Always allow several inches clear-
ance between the pushbeam stops.
This will prevent cable breakage when
traveling over rough, unlevel ground
and when turning.
It is sometimes advisable to smooth
up the haul road with the empty
Scraper by dragging the blade on the
ground. With the apron raised and
the tailgate within approximately 8"
of the extreme forward position, an
action similar to that of* a 'Dozer or
grader is obtained. The tailgate
should never be in the extreme for-
ward position during this operation or
cable breakage might occur when
traveling over unlevel ground and
when turning.
DRAGGING HAUL ROAD ON
RETURN WIP
52
DRAGGING MAUL ROAD ON
RETURN TRIP
OPERATION
MAINTENANCE OF
HAUL ROADS
One of the requirements for efficient
Tournapull-Scraper operation is smooth,
well maintained haul roads that will permit
travel in high gear.
Maintenance of roads and patrolling to throw off large boulders,
etc. pay big dividends in the way of production, reduction in wear and
tear on the machine, and tire conservation. Maintained haul roads also
add to the riding comfort of the operator.
Night operation increases the need for road maintenance.
It depends partly on the job and available equipment as to the
type of equipment that should be used for maintaining the haul roads.
Motor graders are normally very effective tools for this kind of work.
On some jobs motor graders are used in finishing and on these
jobs the grader can be used intermittently for maintaining the haul roads.
On other jobs where the haul roads are of considerable length or
where soft conditions prevail, the constant use of a grader in maintaining
the roads will pay dividends.
'Dozers and Scrapers are also effective tools for use in connection
with road maintenance.
The Tournapulls and Scrapers themselves can be used in maintain-
ing the haul reads by following the practice of lowering the Scraper
blade to the ground and, with the tailgate pulled forward to within
approximately 8 inches of its extreme forward position, dragging the
haul road on the return trip. With the tailgate in this position, an action
similar to that of a 'Dozer is obtained. This practice does not need to
be followed on each return trip, but only often enough to keep the
haul road in good shape.
Travel at high speeds over rough, bumpy, haul roads subjects the
mechanical parts of the Tournapull to undue abuse, endangering the life
of gears, bearings and other mechanical parts of the machine. Travel over
sharp rocks, stones, etc. is likely to cause injury to the tires.
Inasmuch as dusty haul roads necessitate
reduced hauling speeds for the sake of safe-
ty, the practice of oiling or sprinkling the
haul roads is often resorted to in order to
increase production. In cases of this kind,
the cost of sprinkling or oiling can often be
disregarded in view of the additional yard-
age that will result from the increased haul-
ing speeds.
53
PULL TAILGATE AHEAD AP-
PROX. 12" AT A TIME
OPERATION
DON'T SPREAD TOO THIN
HANDLING SPECIAL MATERIALS
Wet or Sticky Materials
When operating in wet or sticky ma-
terial difficulty may be experienced in un-
loading or spreading unless certain precau-
tions are observed.
When unloading do not stop or try to
make too thin a spread. Keep the bowl
high enough to allow the material to pass
under the Scraper. Material not having
room enough to* pass under the Scraper will roll up inside the bowl into
a solid mass that will be difficult for the tailgate to eject.
Do not try to force the load out too fast as that too will cause the
material to roll up in front and might result in cable breakage.
Sometimes the condition of the material in the fill is so muddy
and sticky that it is necessary to use a tractor to push the Tournapull
during the unloading procedure.
For best results in unloading wet or sticky material, bring the
tailgate forward about twelve inches at a time. After each forward
movement permit the tailgate to return approximately six inches, allow-
ing the material inside the bowl to settle back and loosen up. Repeat
this operation until the bowl is emptied.
Loose Sand
Because of the tendency of loose sand to float ahead in front of
the blade rather than entering the bowl when loading, the following pro-
cedure should be used when loading loose sand.
Start to load with the apron raised 6 to 12 inches and with the
tailgate in the rear position. Move forward with the blade in the ground,
loading in the conventional manner with a pusher tractor assisting in
loading. When the bowl has become approximately half filled, lower
the apron into the pile of sand that will have stacked up in front of the
blade and then raise the bowl approximately 2 or 3 inches. Then, while
moving forward, release the hoist brake, permitting the bowl to drop
about 3 to 4 inches. This will force more sand up into the bowl. By
repeating this operation the Scraper can usually be fully loaded.
The above method of raising and lowering the bowl to obtain a
load is sometimes referred to as "pumping in a load". When lowering
the bowl in this operation, do not leave the hoist brake released long
enough to allow the cable to become slack
on the drum as that would cause unneces-
sary cable wear and possible cable breakage.
In unloading loose sand, make the spread
as thin as possible. This will give better
compaction and will make traveling over
the fill less difficult.
Reduced tire pressures are often neces-
sary for best performance in loose sand.
(Refer to tire inflation instructions.)
RAISE AND LOWER BLADE
PUMP IN LOAD
54
BACK UP WHILE LOWERING
APRON AND RAISING BLADE
SECTION
Gravel
When loading gravel, it may be nec-
essary to follow a procedure similar to
that for loading loose sand in order to
obtain a full load. However, little diffi-
culty should be experienced except occa-
sional failure of the apron to completely
close due to interference by large stones,
resulting in a partial loss of the load.
If encountered, this difficulty may be
overcome by backing up a few inches
and at the same time lowering the apron
and raising the bowl. As the bowl is raised, the apron will usually drop
into the completely closed, carrying position.
To prevent damaging the tires, avoid striking large, sharp rocks or
stones and avoid tire slippage as much as possible. Also keep the tires
inflated to the pressures recommended for operation in this type of
material. (Refer to tire inflation instructions.)
Large Rocks and Stumps
Rocks and stumps that are too large for the Tournapull and the
Scraper to pass over can be loaded into the Scraper easily by proper
handling of the Unit as follows.
With the apron raised and the tailgate in the rear position, move
the machine forward, heading the Tournapull straight toward the rock
or stump. Just before it reaches the object, turn sharply either to the
right or to the left and start to move past the object along either side.
When the drive wheels of the Tournapull have moved up alongside the
object, turn the Tournapull sharply toward the rock or stump and at the
same time lower the blade to the ground. By turning in this manner
the Tournapull drive wheels will pass around the object but the blade
will swing in behind it. At this point turn the Tournapull back into
its original direction of travel and with the rock or stump between the
drive wheels and the blade, pull forward, loading the object into the
bowl of the Scraper.
It is sometimes necessary to load a little dirt into the Scraper
after the object is loaded in order to push the object far enough into
the bowl to allow the apron to close.
To unload the rock or stump use the regular unloading procedure.
If in unloading, a large rock should be
tilted up inside the bowl so that it will
not pass under the apron, it is necessary
to return the tailgate to the rear to allow
the rock to settle back to its flat position
before pulling the tailgate ahead again.
After the object has fallen out through
the apron opening, turn the Tournapull
and back up so that the drive wheels will
not hit the object when pulling away.
ROCK
OPERATING
LOWER BLADE HERE
ROW OF GRADE STAKES
DOING SPECIAL JOBS
Making Side-Hill Cuts
In making side-hill cuts, the cut
is usually first opened up or started
by means of LeTourneau 'Dozers
or similar tools. The Tournapulls
and Scrapers can then continue
with the cut after a level shelf has
been built upon which they can
operate.
Always keep a side-hill cut low
next to the bank and high on the outside. The result will be a neat,
easily controlled slope with a minimum of finishing necessary.
To make the side of the cut slope down at the desired angle, follow
the practice of "stepping" in away from the bank or slope with each suc-
cessive depth of cut, as is outlined in the following instructions for mak-
ing through-hill cuts. Also, if finishing the slope with the Tournapull,
perform the finishing operation as the work progresses as per the in-
structions on the following page.
The operator should be careful when operating on soft shoulders
with a loaded Tournapull because of the danger of running or sliding
off over the edge of the bank or shoulder. It is a good practice to stay
in at least a foot or two from the edge where possible unless you are
sure of good, solid footing.
Making Through-Hill Cuts
In making through-hill cuts, always keep the cut low next to the
slopes or sides of the cut ana high in the center. This will help main-
tain better slopes and also make the loads larger and more uniform.
Plan the work so that the sides of the cut slope down at the desired
angle. This can be done by "stepping" in away from the bank or slope
with each successive depth of cut, just enough to cause the slope to taper
down at the desired angle. The slope can be finished by 'Dozer, Scraper,
or by other accepted methods of
back-sloping. If the slopes are not
too steep, they can also be finished
by Tournapulls and Scrapers. If
finishing with the Tournapull, the
slope should be finished as the work
progresses, or, in other words, the
newly cut part of the slope should
be finished each time that the un-
finished part reaches a width equal
to or nearly equal to the width of
the Scraper blade. (Refer to Fin-
ishing instructions on following
page.)
INSTRUCTIONS
Building A Fill
In building a nil it is highly es-
sential to keep the outside or
shoulders of the fill higher than the
center. This prevents the Tourna-
pull from sliding over the shoulder
while dumping close to the edge
and also helps make the side of the
fill slope at the correct angle as
the fill is built up.
When the shoulders have reached grade level, the center can be
filled quickly just before final leveling and finishing. Also, before closing
down the job for the night or for any period of time, fill in the low center
for better drainage in event it should rain.
Finishing
Tournapull drawn Scr-apers are often used for leveling or finishing
airports, roads, building sites, etc.
LEVEL GROUNDFor preliminary finishing where it is neces-
sary to skim off dirt in some spots and fill in at others, the Tournapull
and Scraper can be operated in somewhat the normal manner, picking
up part of a load at one spot and spreading it at another. For final
finishing, however, the Scraper tailgate should be brought forward to
within approximately 8" of its extreme forward position to give an action
similar to a 'Dozer or grader. Keep the tires inflated to equal air pres-
sures or the blade will cut low on one side.
SLOPESSlopes that are fairly level can be finished with a Tourn-
apull if desired. For best results and greater safety, the slope should be
finished as the work progresses. In other words, each time that the
Scraper has cut the slope down far enough to cause the unfinished part
of the slope to equal the approximate width of the Scraper blade, it
should then be used to finish the unfinished part by running one of
the Tournapull and Scraper wheels up onto the slope with the other
wheels running along the bottom of the slope. Then, with the tailgate
pulled forward to within approximately 8" of its extreme forward
position, the machine can travel
along the side of the slope, skim-
ming off the surplus dirt, thus fin-
ishing the slope as you go.
When finishing, do not attempt
to load the bowl on a slope or the
dirt will fall to the low side of the
bowl, causing that side of the blade
to cut deeper than the other and as
a result dig a ditch in the slope.
57
OPERATION SECTION
BOOSTING PRODUCTION
Eliminating Lost Time
One of the most inexcusable examples of inefficiency on earthmov-
ing jobs is that of Tournapulls and Scrapers having to wait on the pusher
tractor when coming into the cut to start loading.
To eliminate this lost time, it is important that there be a proper
ratio between pusher tractors and Tournapulls on the job. In other
words, the amount of equipment on the job should be such that neither
the Tournapull nor the pusher tractors have to wait on one another,
both keeping busy all the time. If the pusher tractor is equipped with
an Angledozer or Bulldozer, it can of course be used in leveling up the
cut in event there are lulls or moments of free time between Tourna-
pulls and Scrapers coming into the cut to be pushed.
In coming into the cut, the operators of the Tournapulls should
give some thought as to the efficiency of the pusher tractor. This effi-
ciency can often be increased if the operator of the empty Tournapull
drawn Scraper will pull up alongside the pusher tractor as the pusher
tractor finishes loading the one that is already in the cut. By doing
this, the pusher tractor can then pull over behind the empty Tournapull
drawn Scraper and again start pushing. This eliminates the delays that
result when the pusher tractor must back up or travel a considerable
distance to reach the machine that is to be pushed.
By following the above procedure, the pusher tractor can often
assist in loading three or four Tournapull drawn Scrapers before the
end of the cut is reached. It can then turn around and return to the
opposite end of the cut and then repeat the pushing operations as out-
lined above, or, if the job is such that the Tournapulls can load traveling
in either direction, the pusher tractor can turn around when it reaches
the end of the cut and then start pushing Tournapull drawn Scrapers
going back in the opposite direction.
Using The Rooter
The loading efficiency of Tournapull drawn Scrapers in hard ma-
terials can be greatly increased by using a Rooter to break up the
material.
LeTourneau Rooters can tear through such materials as decomposed
shale, decomposed granite, tough clay, boulder strewn ground, black top,
etc., all of which can be easily loaded into a Scraper if properly rooted.
LeTourneau Rooters are equipped with either three or five teeth
as standard.
The fewer the teeth the deeper the penetration can be in tough
ground and the larger the breakage will be; and vice-versa, with more
teeth the shallower the penetration and the more pulverizing the action
will be.
For best Scraper loading the material should not be broken up too
fine. Therefore, it is often advisable to remove one or more shanks
from the Rooter to prevent fine breakage. This is dependent, of course,
upon job conditions, type of material, etc.
58
When rooting in a side-hill or through-hill cut, always root parallel
with and close to the slope and work away from the slope. This allows
the Scrapers to maintain proper slopes as the work progresses. Plan
the work to avoid congestion and interference of the Scrapers with the
Rooter.
Eliminating Turns
Wherever possible, plan the work to eliminate all unnecessary turns.
By so doing, an accumulated saving of turning time in the course of a
day's work will result in several additional yards of material being moved.
Ct!
DIG AND HAUL - BOTH WAYS
PLACE "A" AT -B" (r "Bl"
GRADE
Many jobs can be laid out so that there is a fill on each side of
the cut or a cut on each side of the fill. With a job of this type, either a
job lay-out of the type illustrated above or the figure 8 loading and
hauling cycle can be used to great advantage.
In the first example, load going down
the hill and continue with the load to.
the fill. When unloaded, turn and come
f back to the hill and this time load going
down the opposite side of the hill, con-
tinuing on to the second fill, etc., as
^diagrammed.
The figure 8 lay-out is very effective
where there are two cuts on either side
of the fill.
By using either method, only two turns are required while two
full loads are delivered, whereas normally two turns are required for
each load.
On jobs where there are a series of cuts and fills, a lay-out of the
type illustrated below can be used.
DIG AND HAUL - BOTH WAYS
PLACE "A" AT -B'
-. HAUL - -HAUL HAUL -HAUL
59
DON'T LET THIS
HAPPEN TO YOU
OPERATION
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
As with all heavy equipment, reasonable precautions
must be taken when operating or servicing the Tournapull
or Scraper. By observing the following precautions, diffi-
culties similar to those illustrated by cartoon can be
avoided.
Do not travel at reckless speeds, especially when in
congested traffic. Keep the machine under control at all
times.
Do not kick the Tournapull out of gear when traveling
downhill. When traveling downhill make sure that the
machine is under control and steer carefully (refer to
Steering instructions on page 42). On steep hills, be pre-
pared to drop the blade to supplement the power of the
brakes if needed. Keep the brakes in good working condition.
Have good lights when working at night. Travel slowly
in extreme dusty conditions where vision is obstructed.
Make sure the safety cable connecting bottom of
yoke with bottom of main case is installed when operating.
Make sure the Tournapull wheel bolts are kept tight.
Raise the wheel off the ground and use a long extension on
the wrench when installing to make sure they are drawn
up tight. Check bolts regularly to prevent them from
loosening.
Keep the deck-plate clean of mud, tools, and other
obstructions.
When stopping and crawling off the machine, always
lower the Scraper blade to the ground. This prevents the
chances of anyone becoming injured in event the blade
should be lowered by accident. It also prevents the Tourna-
pull from rolling downhill if parked on an incline. Also
pull out the engine shut-off control and turn it Vi turn
when leaving the machine, to prevent it from being started
by accident.
Stay out from in front or rear of the Tournapull
wheels, even when parked. Someone might start the ma-
chine, either by accident or by not knowing anyone is
in the path of the wheels. Know the whereabouts of your
fellow workers at all times when working on the machine.
60
DON'T LET THIS
HAPPEN TO YOU
Keep the hands free of cable and working parts when
in operation. Also keep hands and clothing away from
water pump belts and all moving parts of the engine.
Do not stand directly in front of a wheel when in-
flating the tire, because of the danger of the locking
ring and sliding ring blowing off if not properly seated.
Do not use weak frayed cable. When handling frayed
cable, always wear gloves.
Do not attempt to make adjustments on the engine
while it is running. Shut off engine when making Power
Control Unit clutch or steering clutch adjustments. Keep
hands free from the steering clutches when turning them
over in making an adjustment.
When changing blades or working underneath the
Scraper, always block up under the bowl to prevent it
from dropping in event someone should accidentally re-
lease the Power Control Unit hoist brake. Likewise, do
not work under the apron when in the raised position with-
out first placing blocks between the apron arms and
Scraper sides to prevent the apron from dropping.
Do not attempt dangerous operations or those requir-
ing the assistance of others without presence of enough
help and tools to handle the job.
Do not work behind the tailgate when it is pulled
forward without first blocking it in the forward position.
When replacing springpipe cable or tailgate return
springs, use care to avoid being injured in any manner by
the springs, which have considerable pressure behind
them.
When barring the engine over by hand, always be
sure the compression release is open. Otherwise the fuel
might be injected, causing the engine to fire.
Never attempt to run the engine while the priming
valve is open. This would cause dangerously high speeds.
The emergency shut-off control located on the dash panel
can be used in an emergency to bring the engine speed
under control.
Always be sure the engine is free before attempting
to start it.
Keep the rocker housing covers on the engine.
61
OPERATION SECTION
OPERATION UNDER DUSTY, MUDDY, LOW TEMPERATURE,
HIGH TEMPERATURE AND OTHER ABNORMAL CONDITIONS
Although the Tournapull and Scraper are designed to meet adverse
job or weather conditions, there are a few special instructions that should
be exercised in other than normal conditions.
DUSTY AND MUDDY CONDITIONS:
1. When operating under extremely dusty conditions, it will be
necessary to shorten the periods for changing engine lubricating oil,
cleaning air filters, cleaning air breathers, etc.
2. The engine should be washed off outside and cleaned regularly
of accumulations of any kind of dirt.
3. Belts should be kept free of dirt and oil.
4. Extreme care must always be exercised when parts are replaced
to the engine or other units under dirty conditions. Dirt of one form
or another is responsible for a high percentage of engine failures and
costly repairs.
5. In extreme dusty conditions it is very important that the Scraper
be lubricated at the specified intervals. Unless this is done fine particles
of dirt and grit will work into the sheave and roller bearings and working
parts of the Scraper. By lubricating regularly, the dust and dirt that
accumulates around the bearings is forced out and away from the
bearings by the new grease.
6. Watering or oiling the haul roads is often resorted to in order
to keep the dust down.
7. In extreme dusty conditions do not apply lubricant to the cable.
The reason for this is that the particles of dust, when mixed with the lubri-
cant on the cable, may become abrasive, acting similar to a cutting com-
pound and damaging the cable.
8. In extreme muddy conditions try to keep the Power Control Unit
clutches, brakes, brake springs, and cable drums free of mud. Remove aH
mud from unit after completing day's work.
9. When working in muddy conditions, it is important that the mud
be kept out of the sheaves. In some muddy conditions, it may be neces-
sary to stop the Scraper once or twice a shift and clean the mud out of
the Scraper bowl, as the mud will gather on the bottom and sides of the
bowl, making it hard for the tailgate to come fully ahead, and in some
cases breaking the cable.
COLD WEATHER CONDITIONS:
1. Use lighter grades of oils and greases when working in cold
weather than those used in warm weather. (Refer to Lubrication in-
structions.) If the engine oil is too stiff for proper lubrication it should
62
OPERATION SECTION
be heated before attempting to operate the engine to avoid a damaged
unit.
2. In freezing weather, make sure that the radiator is protected with
anti-freeze in the proper percentages for the weather. Ethylene Glycol
type coolant, used by the Army, is a suitable anti-freeze.
3. It may be necessary to partly cover the radiator to keep the
lubricating oil temperature in the proper operating range of 140-180 .
4. It may be necessary to protect the batteries by heated coils, etc.
in extreme cold weather. To make it easier to crank the engine pull
back the compression release. Start the engine spinning, and when it
has attained its greatest momentum release the compression lever and
allow the engine to fire.
5. In cold weather always make sure the Power Control Unit brake
band is not frozen to drum before starting operation. Do this by moving
control lever into lock-out position, freeing band from drum.
6. When operating in cold weather the use of a Rooter may be
necessary to break up the frozen top soil ahead of the Tournapull and
Scraper.
7. Be sure there is no dirt left in the Scraper bowl at the end
of the shift in cold weather, as it will be frozen tight by morning and
it would then be necessary to thaw it out before the load could.be ejected.
8. When shutting down for the night, lower the bowl onto planks
rather than onto the ground, to prevent the Scraper bottom from freezing
tight to the ground. Also, as at all other times when shutting down for
the night, place a tin can or some similar object over the exhaust stack
to prevent rain, snow, etc. from entering.
9. When the engine is to be left idle for any period of time all
the cylinder block drain plugs must be opened. Failure to remove any
one of these plugs may cause serious damage in freezing weather. It
will also be necessary to remove the drain plug from the water cooled
manifold.
HOT WEATHER CONDITIONS:
1. The operating temperatures of the water and lubricating oil in
the engine should not exceed 180 F.
2. Keep the radiator air passages clean and unobstructed. Keep
the radiator full of clean, fresh water.
3. See that the water pump belts are not slipping. They may be
tightened by loosening the water pump clamp ring and turning the
water pump (which is on an eccentric)' counterclockwise to give the
belts proper tension. Belts have proper tension when they can be
pushed down approximately 3A" with normal thumb pressure.
4. Keep the outside of the engine wiped off clean. No engine will
operate properly under a blanket -f dirt.
63
OPERATION SECTION
OPERATOR'S MAINTENANCE
DURING OPERATION
Observe oil pressure gauge. Pressure should be 30 to 50 Ibs.
Observe water temperature gauge. Water temperature should be
140 F. to 180 F.
WHENEVER NEEDED (As Evidenced by Operator)
Adjust Power Control Unit clutches.
Adjust steering clutches.
Adjust steering brakes.
Adjust flywheel clutch.
Adjust hydraulic brakes.
EVERY 8 HOURS
Check Power Control Unit brake adjustment.
Check tire pressures.
Check crankcase oil level.
Clean and change oil in crankcase breather.
Check water level in radiator.
Remove and clean pre-cleaner jars on air cleaner. (Oftener if
required.)
Look for leaks of lubricating oil, fuel oil, and water from around
engine connections.
Lubricate sheave bearings.
Lubricate fairlead sheave housing pivot bearings.
Lubricate tailgate roller bearings.
Lubricate spiral sheave wheel bearings.
Lubricate hinge pins.
Check batteries and add water if needed.
Check air cleaners to see if oil in sumps need replenishing.
EVERY 64 HOURS
Clean engine thoroughly on outside.
Clean air passages in radiator.
Drain, flush and refill engine crankcase to proper height with
proper oil.
Change oil in air cleaners. Also clean air passages.
Drain off condensation from fuel supply tank.
Drain two or three tablespoons of fuel oil from the float chamber of
the fuel pump to remove water, especially in cold weather.
Check oil level in Power Control Unit gear case.
Lubricate Tournapull control levers.
Lubricate flywheel clutch release yoke.
Lubricate hydraulic brake pedal.
Clean main case breather.
(continued)
64
Lubricate ball and socket hitch.
Lubricate Power Control Unit brake rollers.
Change lube oil filter bag.
Change cartridge in DeLuxe lube oil filter.
Check oil level in main case.
Check oil level in transmission.
Check and correct tension of water pump drive belts.
EVERY 128 HOURS
Change fuel oil filter bag.
EVERY 256 HOURS
Lubricate generator.
Lubricate flywheel clutch release bearing.
Lubricate drawbar.
Clean fuel pump screen.
Adjust injectors.
Adjust intake and exhaust valves.
Clean air cleaners thoroughly.
EVERY 512 HOURS
Change oil in Tournapull main case.
Change oil in Transmission.
Hand-pack Scraper wheel bearings with grease.
Lubricate Scraper springpipe.
Clean and oil cranking motor bearings and screw shaft of Dyer
drive.
EVERY 1024 HOURS
Lubricate water pump.
Change oil in Power Control Unit gear case.
Lubricate Power Control Unit cable drum bearings (hand-pack).
Check fuel inlet connection check values.
Check, clean and repair all electric connections.
Check Power Control Unit brake shaft bearings.
EVERY 2048 HOURS
Hand-pack brake shaft bearings with grease.
Hand-pack Power Control Unit control lever bearings.
PERIODICALLY, AS REQUIRED
Hand-pack flywheel clutch pilot bearing with correct grease when-
ever clutch is disassembled, for replacing lined disc, etc.
Lubricate Scraper pushbeam and sliding sheave channel.
Lubricate cable.
Keep hydraulic brake master cylinder supply tank at least half
full of hydraulic brake fluid (HB).
65
OPERATION MAINTENANCE
DONT'S
DON'T run the engine too cool. Keep water temperature between 140
F. and 180 F.
DON'T run the engine idle for long periods. Shut it off unless it is
working.
DON'T operate engine on kerosene.
DON'T tamper with governor setting.
DON'T tamper with fuel pump or governor.
DON'T race the engine.
DON'T run engine with loose bearings.
DON'T repeatedly strike drive tires against yoke.
DON'T try to cut too deep when loading.
DON'T try to eject sticky material too quickly.
DON'T leave Power Control Unit clutch engaged after tailgate stops
or pushbeam stops have been brought together.
DON'T spin drive tires unnecessarily when loading. Let the pusher
tractor do the greater amount of work.
DON'T ride flywheel clutch pedal.
DON'T travel at excessive speeds over rough haul roads or in congested
traffic.
DON'T be reckless. Keep the machine under control at all times.
DON'T slip Power Control Unit clutches unnecessarily.
DON'T use weak frayed cable.
DON'T use cable larger than that specified.
DON'T permit a blade to wear back into the blade base before changing.
DON'T permit ground plates to wear back into bolt holes before changing.
DON'T operate Tournapull without safety cable in place.
DON'T install magnetic type drain plugs in sumps below final drive
gears on models having serial numbers below C3T-3114-C1G. Use
only non-magnetic plugs at this point because magnetic plugs will
not clear gear teeth.
DON'T wait till a crack or break becomes serious before repairing.
66
OPERATION SECTION
LUBRICATION
Proper lubrication is one of the most important parts of the prevent-
ive maintenance program. The importance of lubricating with the
correct weights and types of lubricants at the specified intervals can not
be over-emphasized. More engines, for example, have been ruined by
the use of inferior oil than from any other cause. Somewhat the same
thing applies to the other units of the machine.
TEMPERATURE
LUBRICANT
Above +32 F.
+ 32 F. to 0F.
Below 0 F.
CG Grease, general purpose
No. 1
No. 0
No. 0
WB-Grease, general purpose
No. 2
No. 2
No. 2
GO-Lubricant,gear, universal
S.A.E. 90
S.A.E. 80
Grade 75
OE Oil, engine
S.A.E. 30
(For use in Engir
S.A.E. 10
eSee Note B)
S.A.E. 10
See Note (A)
HB Fluid, brake, hydraulic
The working parts of the Cummins Engine used in the Tournapull are lubricated
by force-feed. The force is supplied by a gear type pump located on the fuel pump
side of the engine. Lubricating oil pressure is controlled by a regulator in the gear
cover end of the camshaft. The injector plunger in the injector and the working parts
of the fuel pump are lubricated by fuel oil. The fuel oil used in the lubrication of the
injector plunger is returned to the fuel pump through the drain lines.
The working parts within the transmission case, main case, and power control
unit case run in oil and are lubricated therefrom.
Detailed lubricating instructions will be found on the pages which follow.
The general instructions below apply to each of the lubrication charts found on
the following pages:
PRESSURE LUBRICATINGAlways clean grease fittings before applying gun,
whether fittings are hydraulic or button-head types. Use correct type and weight
lubricant at each point (see following charts).
HAND-PACKINGWash bearings and housing with kerosene to remove old dirt.
Dip bearings in lubricating oil. Hand-pack with grease, forcing grease in around rolls
or balls, and spreading around sides of bearings.
CHANGING OILSWhen checking, draining, flushing, and refilling oil com-
partments, do so with machine on level ground. Drain immediately after operation.
Clean magnetic plugs.
KEY TO LUBRICANTS
NOTES (A) In extreme cold temperatures dilute OE, S.A.E.-10, with diesel fuel (up
to 30% as needed to cause oil to pour at prevailing temperature. Mix just
before shutting down. Re-dilute as needed to replace oil that boils off. Also cut
change period in half. (For Engine manufacturers recommendations see note B.)
(B) Engine manufacturers recommendation -tor engine crankcase"Use S.A.E.
#40 engine oil in extra hot weather with well worn engine, S.A.E. #30 in hot
weather (+80 F. to +100 F.), S.A.E. #20 in average weather ( + 20 to +80
F.) and S.A.E. #10 in cold weather (+20 F. and below). These S.A.E. num-
bers should be adhered to closely. It would not be satisfactory, for instance, to
substitute an S.A.E. #30 light grade, or S.A.E. #20 light grade, for the corres-
ponding straight S.A.E. #30, or S.A.E. #20." Of the four grades of lubricating oil
listed above, only SA.E. #10 and S.A.E. #30 are available for U. S Army use. For
best results with these grades, use OE, SA.E. #30, in temperatures above +32
68
Scraper
LUBRICATION
1. SHEAVE BEARINGS
Every 8 hours operation lubri-
cate with CG, forcing out
small amount of old grease
around sheave hub.
2. FAIRLEAD SHEAVE HOUS-
ING BEARINGS
small amount of old grease.
3. TAILGATE ROLLER BEAR-
INGS
small amount of olu grease.
4. SPIRAL SHEAVE WHEEL 5. HINGE PINS
BEARINGS Every 8 hours operation lubri-
Every 8 hours operation lubricate with CG, forcing out
cote with CG, forcing out small amount of old grease.
6. BALL AND SOCKET HITCH
Every 64 hours operation lub-
ricate with CG, forcing out
7. SPRINGPIPE
Every 512 hours operation re-
move cover plate from spring-
pipe and pour in approximate-
ly 1 quart of GO to lubricate
springs.
8. WHEEL BEARINGS
Every 512 hours operation 'e
mo.ve wheel and hand-pack
bearings with WB. Install oil
seals with leather cupped in-
9. PUSHBEAM AND SLIDING
SHEAVE CHANNEL
Apply CG whenever needed to
sides of pushbeam and sheave
channel above springpipe in
which apron and tailgate
sheaves slide.
10. CABLE LUBRICATION
Coat cable (wire rope) sparingly at infrequent intervals with OE to serve as a rust preventative.
Avoid coating that portion of cable which wraps onto cable drums because of danger of oil
getting on facings and causing clutch and brake slippage.
69
70
LUBRICATION
Power Control Unit
1. BREATHER HOLE
When delivered remove cork
from breather hole in oil fill
plug. Keep hole open at all
times.
2. GEAR CASE
Every 64 hours check oil level
in gear case by removing oil
level plug. Always keep filled
to level plug. Drain, flush, and
refill with GO every 1024
hours operation. (Capacity 15
quarts.)
3. BRAKE ROLLERS
ricate brake rollers with OE,
using oil can.
4. CABLE DRUM BEARINGS
5. BRAKE SHAFT BEARINGS 6. CONTROL LEVER BEAR
Every 1024 hours operation (or Every 2048 hours operation
INGS
when disassembled) remove remove brake shaft bearings Every 2048 hours operation
cable drum, hand-pack bear- and hand-pack with WB. remove Power Control Unit
control lever bearings and
ings and fill drum 2/3 full of
grease, using WB. (See note A)
hand-pack with WB.
NOTES: (A) After hand-packing cable drum bearings, reassemble cable
drum assembly, leaving out two of the capscrews which secure the driven cone to
the cable drum. Then, with the cable drum standing on end, insert recommended
grease through one of capscrew holes, filling the drum only 2/3 full of grease.
In this operation, use a conventional pressure grease gun or any other suitable means
of inserting the grease through the capscrew hole. Also, insert a measuring stick
or wire down through the other capscrew hole to serve as a guide in determining
when cable drum is 2/3 full of grease.
For emergency lubrication, a drilled grease duct is provided in the drum shaft,
extending from rear of shaft to grease chamber inside cable drum. In event an
excessive amount of grease is lost around cable drum oil seals and for some reason
it is impractical to disassemble the unit until after a few more hours of operation
have been completed, the bearings may be temporarily supplied with lubricant by
removing plug from end of drum shaft and inserting a grease fitting in its place.
Then inject enough grease through grease fining to replace that which was lost
around the seals, using a conventional pressure grease gun. As soon as possible
thereafter, disassemble cable drum assembly to replace leaky oil seals and again
hand-pack bearings and fill cable drum 2/3 full of recommended grease.
71
72
Tournapull
LUBRICATION
1. CONTROL LEVERS AND
LINKAGE
ricate control (ever s and link-
age with CG. Reach control
lever fittings through floor
board openings.
2.
RE-
FLYWHEEL CLUTCH
LEASE YOKE
ricate both ends of flywheel
clutch release yoke with CG.
Reach fittings from below,
along both sides of clutch
housing.
3. MAIN CASE BREATHER
move main case breather,
wash elements in SOLVENT,
dry cleaning or oil, fuel, diesel,
oil with OE and re-install.
Reach breather through open-
ing at rear of seat bracket.
FUNNEL
4. FLYWHEEL CLUTCH RE-
LEASE BEARING
ricate flywheel clutch release
bearing with CG. Be careful to
not over-lubricate. Reach fit-
ting thru floor board opening.
5. DRAWBAR
ricate with CG through but-
ton-head fittings at both ends
of drawbar. Avoid blowing
out rubber boots through
over-lubrication.
6. MAIN CASE
by removing oil level plug.
Keep oil up to level plug at
all times. Drain, flush, and re-
fill with OE every 512 hours.
(Capacity approximately 35
gal.) See Note (A).
PLUG
7. TRANSMISSION
by removing combination level
and fill plug. Keep level up to
plug at oil times. Drain, flush
and re-fill with GO every 512
hours. (Capacity 11 quarts.)
FLYWHEEL CLUTCH PILOT
BEARING
Whenever clutch is disassem-
bled for replacing lined disc,
etc., remove flywheel clutch
pilot bearing and hand-pack
with WB. (IMPORTANT-Never
use CG at this point.)
MASTER
CYLINDER
9. HYDRAULIC MASTER CYL-
INDER AND HYDRAULIC
BRAKE PEDAL
Keep hydraulic master cylin-
DRAIN
PLUG
NUGENT FILTER IS LOCATED
ON OPPOSITE SIDE OF
ENGINE (See Opposite Page)
DELUXE FILTER IS LOCATED
ON OPPOSITE SIDE OF
ENGINE (See Opposite Page)
LUBRICATION
74
1. OIL PRESSURE GAUGE
Observe engine oil pressure
frequently as indicated on oil
pressure gauge. Oil pressure
should be within range of 30
to 50 Ibs. Should not vary
much in day's work.
2. CRANKCASE
Every 8 hours operation check
oil level with bayonet gauge.
Every 64 hours drain, flush
and refill with OE (see Note B
on page 67) to high mark on
Bayonet gauge. Capacity 7
gals., including filters. (See
note A.)
3. CRANKCASE BREATHER
Every 8 hours remove wing
nut from top of crankcase
breather and disassemble.
Drain oil from cup and wash
thoroughly. Wash, screen. Re-
fill with OE to oil level bead
around cup, re-assemble and
install.
4. AIR CLEANERS
move oil cup from air cleaner.
Drain, clean, re-fill with OE
to oil level bead and re-install.
in oil cup. (See "Care of Air
Cleaners", page 82, Operation
Section.)
5. NUGENT LUBRICATING
FILTER
Every 64 hours operation
change lubricating oil filter
bag. (See note B.) CAUTION
Add lubricating oil after en-
gine has run for a few minutes
to compensate for oil absorb-
ed by new filter bag.
6. DELUXE LUBRICATING OIL
FILTER
Every 64 hours operation un-
screw cover on DeLuxe oil fil-
ter and discard dirty cartridge.
Drain dirt from sump, insert
new cartridge, replace cover
and tighten by hand only.
Observe some caution as with
Nugent Filter.
7. GENERATOR
Every 256 hours operation fill
oil wells on both commutator
and drive end frames up to
level of oil holes with OE, not
while unit is in operation be-
cause the bearings tend to
carry oil and the unit would
be excessively oiled.
8. CRANKING MOTOR
clean and oil cranking motor
bearings. Also clean and oil
screw shaft of the Dyer drive.
9. WATER PUMP
lubricate water pump with
(A) CHANGING LUBRICATING OIL
Drain oil from oil pan, lubricating oil filters and oil lines. Remove filter bag
and cartridge from lube oil niters and replace with new filter bags and cartridges.
Drain immediately after shutting down.
After the oil has all drained out, re-fill to proper level with the recommended
oil. (See recommendations.)
IMPORTANTEach time new filter bags and cartridges are installed, it is
necessary to put an additional amount of lubricating oil into the crankcase since a
large amount of oil is retained in the filters.
(B) CHANGING LUBRICATING OIL FILTER BAGSTo change Biter
bags from bag type filter, remove cover by taking off nuts holding it. Lift filter
element from the case. With clean cloths (not waste) wipe the case clean. Re-
move filter bag from spool and throw it away. (WARNINGDo not attempt to
wash old filter bags. In trying to wash a filter bag, dirt will accumulate on the
outside of the bag and this, in turn, will go through the oiling system of the engine
before it is returned to the filter. Serious trouble will result.)
Wash all parts thoroughly except the filter bags. Inspect the gasket on the
spool and the filter bag clamp. If they are not in good condition, replace them.
Inspect the spool arms carefully for cracks or breaks. If one or more of these
arms are broken, the filter bag will work out over the discharge hole in the filter
housing, shutting off the oil pressure to the engine.
Spool arms can be broken by careless assembly of the filter element. Inside
cleanliness is most essential to the long and trouble-free operation of the engine.
Bag & Ring ready for as
sembling
Plan ring inside of bag.
Fold top of bag inward
over ring about V>", starting
with the ends and then the
sides.
Before applying bag to
spool turn bag-clamps length-
wise so that they will enter
bag opening.
Hold bag firmly against
spool & give !4 turn to bag-
clamp handles which brings
them into lengthwise position.
Hold handles thus while turn-
ing bag-clamp nuts to a hand
tight lengthwise position.
With inlet end facing you,
place spool with bag on a
clean flat surface, then lay
bag spacer mat on bag mak-
ing sure they are flat & that
the left end of the mat comes
up close to the spool. Then
roll mat with bag around
spool clockwise.
Assembled filtering element
ready to insert into shell.
76
OPERATION SECTION
FUEL, AND CARE OF FUEL SYSTEM
The use of a good grade of clean fuel oil and proper care of fuel
filters, strainers, etc. are important parts of engine care and maintenance.
Failure to keep fuel filters and strainers clean will cause excessive wear
on the fuel pump. (For fuel pump and injector cleaning and repair, see
Engine Repair Section.)
FUEL OIL SPECIFICATIONS
Fuel oil should be a neutral distillate petroleum oil, free from
suspended matter and not a mixture of light oil and heavy residue.
Chemical properties should approximate the following requirements:
Viscosity (Saybolt Universal Viscosimeter at 100 degrees Fahren-
heit) not less than 34 seconds.
Gravity from 26 to 36 A. P. I.
Viscosity is more important than gravity. If gravity is higher than
32, be sure viscosity is at least 34 seconds.
The fuel to be free from waternot over 1% asphaltum content.
Cetane rating preferably not under 50.
Not less than 10% should distill below 460 F.
Not less than 90% should distill below 675 F.
End point not to exceed 725 F., minimum recovery 98%.
FILLING THE FUEL TANKS
The Tournapull has two fuel tanks which are connected together
by a fuel line to serve as a single tank. The combined capacity of the
fuel tanks is approximately 75 gal.
When filling the fuel tanks, caution must be used to prevent
dirt, water or lint from going into the tank. The strainer screen should
always be in place below the fuel tank cap when filling the tanks.
Once every 64 hours of operation drain off condensation from the
fuel tanks.
CARE OF FUEL FILTER
Change the fuel oil filter bag every 128 hours of operation.
The fuel oil filter is a Nugent filter of the same general type as the
Nugent lubricating oil filter.
For instructions for changing the fuel oil filter bags, refer to the
instructions on page 76 of the Operation Section covering the changing
of the corresponding filter bags in the lube oil filter.
It is necessary to drain the sediment and water from the bottom of
the fuel filter frequently. Due to different grades and quality of fuel,
it is impossible to make any definite statement as to when this should
be done. This must be determined by the operator, according to the
fuel used.
When the filtering elements become saturated with water, it will
be necessary to replace the elements. Draining the filter case will
not remove water from the filter bags.
77
CUT-AWAY DRAWING OF
FUEL FILTER
If water or sediment is allowed to stay in the filter, it collects on
the filtering element and will stop the fuel from passing through. In
cold weather the water will freeze, completely shutting off all fuel
going to the engine. If the fuel lines have any low point and the engine
is allowed to remain idle for a short period of time, any water in the
fuel lines will find the low spots and freeze in cold weather. This will
immediately cut off the fuel flow to the fuel pump.
DRAINING FUEL PUMP FLOAT CHAMBER
Once every 64 hours of operation drain two or three tablespoons
of fuel oil from the float chamber of the fuel pump to remove water.
It is especially important that this be done in cold weather.
CLEANING FUEL PUMP SCREEN
The small conical screen in the fuel pump should be cleaned every
256 hours. It should also be cleaned in any instance where the engine
refuses to start or gives indications of not developing full power. Clean-
ing of this screen is performed as -follows:
78
SECTION
FUEL PUMP SCREEN AND CHECK VALVE ASSEMBLY
1. Unscrew the pressure cham-
ber dome from the pressure pump
assembly, taking care not to lose
the copper asbestos gasket on which
it seats.
2. Remove the fuel supply
tube from the distributor top to the
emergency control valve.
3. Unscrew the small hexa-
gonal housing into which the con-
trol valve is assembled, applying
the wrench to the lower of the two
hex areas of the housing. Be care-
ful not to mislay the copper gasket
for this opening.
4. Place the control valve end of the housing in a vise and unscrew
the other half of the housing. The conical screen is located in this part.
5. Wash the screen carefully with cleaning solvent and blow out
with compressed air in the opposite direction of the fuel flow.
NOTE: Do not remove the small valves in the emergency control
valve part of the housing. If they should accidently be removed, they
should be replaced as follows:
1. Clamp the control valve half of the housing in a vise with the
cup upward.
2. With the cup end up, drop the small valve cage into the housing.
3. Drop the small spring into the cup.
4. Insert the valve with the flat face next to the spring. This
should collapse into the cup when pushed down.
5. Reassemble the two parts of the housing and then proceed
with reassembly to the pump.
6. Prime the pump before attempting to start the engine.
INJECTOR FUEL INLET CONNECTION CHECK VALVES
Check the fuel inlet connection check valves every 1024 hours of
operation. Re-seat or replace if worn or not seating properly. If the
check valves leak, trouble may be experienced in the way of a weak
cylinder or engine missing or smoking.
The check valves should break at not less than 35 pounds and not
more than 50 pounds fuel pressure. This can be checked by applying
fuel pressure to the regular fuel line connection from the priming pump
to the pressure pump, and reading from the fuel pump pressure gauge.
The operation of the fuel inlet check valves is very important.
79
PRIMING THE ENGINE
(NOTE: Cylinders are numbered from the gear cover end of the
engine, i.e. Number 1 cylinder is on the gear cover end of the engine and
the direction of rotation is determined from this point.)
When the engine is started for the first time or after it has been
overhauled, the fuel system will be dry and it will be necessary to
prime all supply lines with clean fuel.
1. Check all lines leading to the engine to detect any leaks.
2. Disconnect all the injector fuel supply lines.
NOTE: Be sure the overspeed stop is in the open, or running
position, before attempting to prime the engine.
OPERATION SECTION
3. Open the priming valve approxi-
mately two turns. This valve is solely for
the purpose of priming, as it by-passes the
fuel around the metering pump.
4. With the hand crank or other suit-
able means, turn the engine over until the
intake valve on Number 1 cylinder starts
to open. Continue to turn the engine- over
until the next "PR" mark on the water POSITION FOR PRIMING ENGINE
pump drive pulley indexes with the timing mark on the gear cover.
5. Work the priming pump until solid fuel appears at the loosened
injector fuel inlet connection.
6- Tighten the fuel line on the cylinder just primed and give the
primer one or two (no more) strokes. This pushes the solid fuel to
the injector cup to prevent excessive cranking when ready to start the
engine.
7. Turn the engine over until the- next "PR" mark on the water
pump drive pulley indexes with the timing mark on the gear cover. This
brings the cylinder listed next in the firing order to the correct position
for priming. Prime this cylinder as previously instructed. It is necessary
to prime each cylinder separately. The fuel passages in the distributor
index for only one cylinder at a time.
8. After the injector supply lines are primed and tightened, close
the priming valve. Caution: Close the priming valve by hand only.
If the valve turns with difficulty, loosen the packing nut. Otherwise,
the point of the valve may be broken.
WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RUN THE ENGINE
WITH THE PRIMING VALVE OPEN OR SERIOUS DAMAGE
WILL RESULT.
With the priming valve open, a passage is formed directly from the
fuel pressure pump to the injector. Since the fuel is coming directly
from the pressure pump to the injector, the governor has absolutely
no control over the fuel system. The pressure pump gives the injector an
excessive charge of fuel each time the pass-
ages in the distributor index to supply fuel
to each cylinder. This, in turn, makes the
engine run at an excessive speed.
The only means of shutting the fuel
off when the priming valve is open is by
the emergency shut off.
81
OPERATION SECTION
CARE OF ENGINE AND ACCESSORIES
In addition to observing closely the instructions covering engine
lubrication (page 75 of Operation Section) and the use of the proper
fuel oil and care of the fuel system, (page 77 of Operation Section),
the following points of periodic adjustment and engine care also require
the attention of the operators or those entrusted with periodic main-
tenance.
Neglect of one or more of the following suggestions covering routine
maintenance of the Cummins diesel engines has been found to cause
most service troubles. See to it that these items, in addition to those
covered in the Lubrication and Fuel Sections, are included in your
regular maintenance check-up.
CLEANLINESS
By keeping the Cummins diesel engine cleaninside and out
you can eliminate a high percentage of the causes of poor engine per-
formance and costly repairs. Clean the engine thoroughly on the outside
every 64 hours of operation. Check air passage in radiator every 64
hours and clean if necessary. Use a good grade of clean fuel oil at all
times. (See page 77 of Operation Section.) Failure to keep the fuel
filter and strainers clean will cause excessive wear on the fuel pump.
The fuel pump screen should be cleaned regularly. Ventilating holes
should be kept clean and open to permit proper air intake.
CARE OF AIR CLEANERS
The Tournapull engine is equipped with three air cleaners and
pre-cleaners.
Each pre-cleaner and air cleaner should be serviced as follows:
Pre-Cleaners
The pre-cleaner is an attachment fastened to the top of the air
cleaner for the purpose of collecting excessive dust going into the intake
of the air cleaner. A small jar is screwed on the pre-cleaner for collecting
dust and must be cleaned every 8 hours of operation when working in
extremely dusty conditions. (Oftener if required.)
Remove pre-cleaner and inspect fins every 8 hours. When fins
become dirty or oily, wash entire pre-cleaner in SOLVENT, dry cleaning
or OIL. fuel, diesel.
Air Cleaners
Careful attention to the air cleaners will prolong engine life. Check
the oil in the sumps of the air cleaners every 8 hours of operation and
replenish if necessary.
The air cleaner takes the dust from the air but the operator must
take the dust and dirt from the cleaner. An oil of the same grade as
that in the crankcase should be used in the cleaner; however, in ex-
tremely cold weather a lighter grade may be necessary. (Refer to
lubrication instructions.)
WARNING: NEVER USE CRANKCASE DRAIN INGS.
82
UNFILTERED AIR
CLEAN AIR
Remove the oil cup by loosening the wing nuts or clamp screw
that holds the cup in place on the lower part of the cleaner. Empty the
oil from the cup and wash thoroughly with cleaning solvent.
With clean cloth or brush (not waste) and cleaning solvent wash
the inside surface of the air inlet tube. If this is neglected din will
gradually build up on inside of tube. This will prevent the passage of
a sufficient quantity of air which is necessary for proper combustion and
good engine performance.
Fill the oil cup to the level indicated by the bead on its side with
clean fresh oil and assemble to cleaner.
After every 256 hours of operation, the screens inside the body of
the cleaner must be cleaned. Remove the entire cleaner from the
engine. When it has been disassembled for the regular cleaning job as
described above, flush the inside of the cleaner body with SOLVENT,
dry cleaning or OIL. fuel, diesel.
After thoroughly flushing, blow the screens out well with com-
pressed air. When cleaner is replaced on the engine, be sure all connec-
tions are air tight.
Each time the air cleaners are serviced the crankcase breather
should be cleaned. (Refer to lubrication instructions.)
HOW OVERSPEEDING AFFECTS THE AIR CLEANERS
Air cleaners are designed to handle a certain maximum volume of
air. As engine speed increases or decreases the volume of air traveling
through the cleaner varies proportionately. Overspeeding will pull the
oil from the oil cup into the intake of the engine in a very short time,
thus making the filter useless.
Do not allow the engine to operate at speeds higher than that for
which the governor is adjusted.
83
CARE OF COOLING SYSTEM
Check level of water or cooling solution in radiator every 8 hours
of operation. Keep the radiator full. The capacity of the cooling system,
including radiator is approximately 12 gallons.
Water used in the cooling system should be soft, or as free as
possible from scale forming minerals.
The cooling system should be drained occasionally to remove dirt
and sediment which accumulates. The radiator is drained by opening
the petcock in the bottom of the radiator. To assure complete draining
of the cylinder block it will be necessary to remove the drain plugs in
the engine block and water manifold. Failure to drain any one of these
plugs may cause serious damage in freezing weather.
Clean the air passage in the radiator every 64 hours of operation.
For operating temperatures, refer to page 39 of Operation Section.
Check battery with a good hydrometer every 8 hours operation (be-
fore operation). Battery is sufficiently charged if specific gravity of elec-
trolyte is 1.225 to 1.300 (1.075 to 1.230 in hot or torrid climates). If
specific gravity is below 1.225 or the variations between specific gravity
readings of cells is more than 25 points, remove battery for recharge or
inspection.
If necessary add distilled water to maintain electrolyte level about
%" above the plates. Also inspect battery cables for cleanliness or
tightness. Remove corrosion from and around terminals and then coat
with vaseline or grease.
Make operational maintenance checks regularly.
Operational maintenance checks may be defined as the checks
which may be made during the operation of the equipment. These
checks give the operator some idea as to the condition of the cranking
motor so that if some abnormal condition of operation is noted, correc-
tions may be made before complete failure of the unit takes place,
with a consequent failure to start the engine. During starting, the action
of the cranking motor should be noted. The cranking motor should take
hold promptly and spin the engine at normal cranking speeds. If the
cranking motor cranks the engine slowly or not at all, the equipment
should be checked and the necessary corrections made. (Refer to pages
257 thru 262 of Repair Section.) Failure to crank normally can be due
to a low battery, defective battery cables, poor connections in the
cranking motor to battery circuit (including solenoid switch circuit),
defective cranking motor, low temperatures, or various conditions in
the engine.
. CAUTION: The cranking motor must never be used for more
than 30 seconds at any one time without a pause of several minutes to
wait until the cranking motor cools off. The cranking motor must never
(Continued on page 86)
84
85
- HORN BOTTOM
WIRING DIAGRAM
SCRAPER HEAD * \&* II
JGHT SWITCH LIGHT SWITCH AMMETER STARTER
OPERATION SECTION
(Continued from page 84)
be used to move the vehicle. Failure to observe these rules may result
in complete failure of the cranking motor.
Generator charging rate should be checked regularly. Frequently
the rate of charging is stepped up when all that is needed is an adjust-
ment of the generator and regulator. Over-charging causes excessive
wear on the generator brushes and shortens the life of your battery.
Periodic inspection and good maintenance will prevent service
interruption.
Keep connections clean and tight. Prevent wire and lugs from
touching each other or any metal except screw terminals to which they
are attached. Replace broken or worn out wires and their terminals.
Do not spray washing solutions against generator, cranking motor
and control unit because if forced into the. interiors, certain deposits
may accumulate to cause service interruptions. Keep aluminum or other
metallic paints away from terminals to avoid possible shorts and grounds.
Shield generator and cranking motor from dripping, spilled oil or other
liquids. Keep brush opening band on generator.
NOTE: Care must be taken in installing band to see that venti-
lating louvers are facing down to prevent water running into the
generator.
Lubricate bearings as per lubrication instructions on page 75 of
Operation Section.
Make sure at all times that the proper fuses are in place. (Refer
to wiring diagram on previous page.)
For further instructions pertaining to adjustments and care of the
electrical equipment (points not normally taken care of by operators)
refer to pages 257 thru 262 of Repair Section. Functions of electrical
equipment will be found on page 17.
DRIVE BELTS
Check tension of water pump belts every 256 hours of operation
and correct if needed.
The belts may be tightened by loosening the water pump clamp
ring and turning the water pump (which is on an eccentric) counter-
clockwise to give the belts proper tension. The belts have proper tension
when they can be pushed down approximately 3A" with normal thumb
pressure.
Belts are often neglected because a poorly adjusted belt does not
bring an immediate penalty. A belt which is too tight puts a strain on
gears, shaft and belt grooves. Loose belts slip, overheat and wear out
more quickly.
You can not cool the water in your radiator efficiently if the belts
on the water pump are slipping. In replacing worn belts, use standard
V belts of the right length and shape to fit the grooves properly.
86
FUEL PUMP TIMING
Check the fuel pump timing before initial operation and before
operating the engine following overhaul jobs which might affect the fuel
pump timing .
1. Bar the engine over to Number One top center. The engine is
on Number One top center when the top center mark on the flywheel
lines up with the mark on the flywheel housing through the inspection
plate and if both intake and exhaust valves on Number One cylinder
are closed. If the top center mark shows on the flywheel and Number
One exhaust and intake valves are not closed, the engine is on Number
Six top center and it will be necessary to turn the crankshaft one
complete revolution.
2. Check the fuel pump timing marks on the water pump drive
pulley and the gear housing. This should show one and six top center.
3. Check the distributor collar timing mark through the distributor
housing inspection hole as shown.
These checks on fuel pump timing are only necessary, (1) after
the fuel pump has been removed from the engine, (2) or if the camshaft
timing has been changed, (3) or the fuel pump distributor has been
lifted from the fuel pump. The engine cannot get out of time by itself.
INJECTOR PLUNGER ADJUSTMENT
Never operate the engine when the valves are improperly adjusted.
Check the injector adjustment before initial operation and once
every 256 hours of operation thereafter. Also check injector adjust-
ments after an overhaul or at any time when the operator is not sure
that the engine is ready to be operated.
1. To set the injector, pull the compression release lever as far
back as possible and hold it in this position. This allows the intake
valves to remain open. The engine may then be turned over without
working against compression.
87
OPERATION
2. Rotate the engine in its
operating direction until Num-
ber 1 cylinder comes up on
the compression stroke. (On
the compression stroke both
the intake and exhaust valves
will be closed with the com-
pression release in running
position.) As the piston ap-
proaches top center, the injec-
tor rocker lever (the center
lever) will start moving down-
ward, pushing the injector plun-
ger down with it.
3. When the injector rock-
er lever starts its downward
movement, continue to turn the
engine (approximately I/B
turn) until the notch marked
"1 & 6 VS" on the water pump
drive pulley registers with the
top center mark on the gear
housing. Number 1 cylinder is
now in position to adjust the
injector.
4. Make sure that both in-
take and exhaust valves are in
closed position before adjusting
the injector plunger.
5. With an injector adjusting tool, push the injector plunger firmly
in its seat. Then with a screwdriver, turn the adjusting screw down
until it just bottoms. Now tighten the lock unit. Do not tighten further
or back off the adjusting screw.
Caution: Be careful not to adjust the injectors too tightly, as this
throws an overload on the camshaft and cam rollers, ultimately damaging
these parts.
The injectors for only one cylinder can be adjusted at one setting.
Two complete revolutions of the crankshaft are necessary to adjust the
injectors for all cylinders.
88
VALVE ADJUSTMENT
Check the valve adjustment before initial operation and once every
256 hours of operation thereafter. Also check valve adjustments after an
overhaul or at any time when the operator is not sure that the engine is
ready to be operated.
1. Make sure the compression release is in running position before
setting the intake valves.
2. Always make final valve adjustments when the engine is hot.
3. Set the intake valves at .014" and the exhaust valves at .022".
4. Turn the engine over until the next "VS" notch in the water
pump drive pulley indexes with the top center mark on the gear
housing. This brings the cylinder next in the firing order to the correct
position for injector and valve adjustments.
5. Following this procedure, continue until all injectors and valves
have been set.
CAUTION: The valves for only one cylinder can be adjusted at
one setting. Two complete revolutions of the crankshaft are necessary
to adjust the valves for all cylinders.
ADJUSTMENT OF IDLING GOVERNOR
After the fuel pump is installed on the engine and the engine is
running, the low speed or idling governor stop screw should be adjusted.
This adjustment is made by loosening the locknut and turning the
idling screw until the engine idles at between 450 and 500 RPM.
If more adjustment is required than the screw permits, readjust-
ment of the linkage to the idling control may be made. Make sure this
adjustment is made so that the idling lever holds the screw against the
stop on the pump body when in idling position.
89
MlVCH CCNt
OUTCN lINING
IIMtAi MJNIC
com
STEERING CLUTCH
ADJUSTMENT
CROSS SiCION DRAWING OF SIfEING CLUTCH
There is no set interval for checking the steering clutches for ad-
justment.
Instead, the operation of the machine serves as a constant check
on the adjustment.
Adjust the steering clutches only when troubled with clutch slip-
page.
Do not tinker with the clutches. Normally, the clutches should not
be bothered so long as they are functioning properly and responding
to the movement of the control levers. However, in event the adjustment
has been turned up so tight that the operator has difficulty in moving
the control levers to engage and disengage the clutches, backing off
or loosening the clutch is permissible, providing that this amount of
tightness is not needed in overcoming clutch slippage.
Normally, a good firm pull or push of the control lever is required
to disengage or re-engage a clutch when correctly adjusted, with more
force required for re-engaging than for disengaging. The amount of
force needed in engaging and disengaging clutches when correctly ad-
justed varies somewhat with different machines, however, due to me-
chanical condition of the machines, weight of oil in which the clutches
are running, etc.
As the steering clutch levers are moved to engage or disengage
the clutches, the clutch engaging mechanism "snaps" or "toggles" over-
center, and this action can be both heard and felt by the operator.
With a clutch correctly adjusted, this "snap" becomes very definite, and
to operators or mechanics who are familiar with the machine, this
serves as an indication as to whether the clutches are correctly adjusted.
The clutches should be adjusted only tight enough to prevent slip-
page when under load. Additional tightness is unnecessary and causes
more effort to be required by the operator in engaging and disengaging
the clutches than should be needed.
90
MAINTENANCE
HOW TO MAKE CLUTCH
ADJUSTMENT
To adjust a steering clutch, first stop the
engine and remove the round inspection plate
from the deck plate, on the side nearest the
clutch that is to be adjusted.
Reach through the inspection hole with a
wrench and back off the two lock screws
which lock the adjustment, thereby freeing
the adjusting spider so that it can be turned.
In doing this, first back off the lock nuts
located on the lock screws. It may be neces-
sary to disengage the steering clutch and
turn the clutch over with the starter to be
able to reach both lock screws. Make sure
the lock screws are turned far enough out of
the adjusting spider to compensate for in-
ward movement of the adjusting spider which
takes place in the following operation.
With the clutch disengaged, turn the ad-
justing spider on the threaded hub of the
clutch drive-plate by hand or by prying
lightly against one of the clutch fingers with
a bar if it can not be turned by hand. Turn
the adjusting spider clockwise to tighten the
adjustment and counterclockwise to loosen
the adjustment. (The amount of a turn re-
quired to reach the desired adjustment will
be easily learned after having adjusted the
clutches once or twice. Only a very small
part of a turn is normally requiredsome-
times only V4" to V4" of movement.)
Without starting the engine, test the ad-
justment by feeling the control lever move-
ment. The feel of the clutch engaging mech-
anism as it "snaps" over center will be very
evident to the operator when moving the con-
trol levers to engage and disengage the
clutches if correctly adjusted. If a definite
"snap" is both heard and felt in this opera-
tion, lock the adjustment by turning the lock
screws in tight against the drive plate. Also
turn the lock nuts on the lock screws up tight
against the adjusting spider. Then re-install
the inspection plate and road test the ma-
chine. If slippage still occurs when under
load, another take up in the adjustment will
be necessary.
91
INSPECTION fLATE
OPERATION
STEERING BRAKE
ADJUSTMENT
There is no set interval for checking the steering brakes for adjust-
ment. Instead, the operation of the machine serves as a constant check
on the adjustment.
The steering brakes can be applied by means of either the brake
levers or the steering clutch levers. Adjust the brakes whenever troubled
by them not holding properly when using the brake levers, or when the
proper engaging or releasing of the brakes is not obtained when using
the steering clutch levers.
When actuating the brakes with the steering clutch levers, there
should be a brief interval or distance of travel between the point where
the steering clutch releases and the point where the brake takes hold as
the clutch lever is moved to the rear. Unless this brief interval is obtained,
the brakes are incorrectly adjusted and an adjustment should be made.
HOW TO MAKE ADJUSTMENT
To adjust the steering brakes, first remove the round inspection plate
from the deck plate, on the side near-
est the brake that is to be adjusted.
To tighten a brake, turn hex nut
"B" (see illustration above) counter-
clockwise. Then reach through deck
plate opening and turn nut "A" clock-
wise with the brake adjusting wrench,
far enough to adjust brake to desired
tightness. Then turn nut "B" clock-
wise, tight against the case, to lock the
adjustment. To loosen brake, turn
nut "A" counter-clockwise and then
turn nut "B" clockwise, as needed to
bring brake into correct adjustment.
Turn nuts "A" and "B" only a
small amount at a time until the point
is reached where maximum leverage
is obtained from actuator lever "C"
when engaging the brakes; or, in other
words, to the point where the actuator
lever approaches the over-center posi-
tion (not quite over-center). It can
usually be determined when this point
is reached by the "spongy" feel ob-
tained on the brake lever when en-
gaging the brake.
92
SECTION
Each time that a brake is either
tightened or loosened by turning hex
nuts "A" and "B" as outlined on the
previous page, check the travel of
the clutch lever between the point
where the clutch releases and the
point where the brake takes hold. To
do this, pull back the brake lever to
the point where the brake first en-
gages and pull back the clutch lever
to the point where the clutch releases.
Then measure the clearance between
the lower end of the levers at the
point illustrated. The clearance at
this point should be approximately
Va" to W. If greater or less than
Vs" to %" make the following ad-
justment.
Adjust brake control linkage as re-
quired to bring about the correct dis-
tance of travel of the clutch lever be-
tween the clutch release position and
the brake engaged position. To do
this, turn the clevises at the ends of
the brake links far enough to bring
about the specified VB" to Vi" travel
as outlined above.
After having completed the brake adjustment, road test the machine.
MINOR ADJUSTMENTS
In addition to the points of adjustment covered above, the follow-
ing points which affect the brake action also require infrequent attention.
1. Release spring (D)
lifts rear end of brake band
away from drum (outer
circumference o f driven
cone) when brake is dis-
engaged. A clearance of
1/32" to 1/16" should be
maintained at this point.
(This can only be adjusted
with deck plate removed.)
2. Set screw (E) in rear
of brake actuator housing
on deck plate is intended
to prevent actuator lever
and linkage from dropping
over-center when engaging
brake. Turn the set screw
in to the point where it
stops actuator lever just
before dropping over-
center. It can be deter-
mined when this point is
reached by "feel" of brake
lever. This adjustment is
usually necessary only after
installing deck plate.
3. When removing deck
plate, set screw (E) must
be backed out far enough
to permit actuator lever to
be moved back into brake
actuator housing as illu-
strated after disconnecting
brake linkage. This will
permit deck plate to be
lifted off over actuator
lever.
93
lINED DfivtN rum
OPERATOR'S
KATt
CAFWTIEW
IMIOW-OUT MABING
GtrASC TIMC
SFftJNO
IFAIING CAH1H
FLYWHEEL CLUTCH
ADJUSTMENT
YO!
OtEASE MTTINO
S.'I.INC. Mtt.f
There is no set interval for
checking the flywheel clutch for
adjustment.
Instead, the operation of the
machine serves as a constant
check on the adjustment.
Adjust the flywheel clutch
only when the pedal "lash" is
reduced to J/2 ", or when troubled
with clutch slippage. It is not
always necessary to adjust a
clutch immediately when slight slippage occurs under extreme heavy
loads. In this case, the slippage may be due more to momentary over-
load than to incorrect adjustment, and a take up in the adjustment
may not be necessary for normal operation. If continued slippage should
occur, however, an adjustment should be made (unless the slippage
is caused by oily clutch facing or other sources of clutch slippage as
outlined in Trouble Shooter's guide at rear of Repair Section.)
ADJUHINO run
WN
IFTtACTOfl STtlNC
INSWCTIOH riATI
STUD
'LTWHIIl HINO
CROSS-SECTION DRAWING OF FIYWHEH CLUTCH
To adjust the clutch, first shut off
the engine,. Then remove the inspec-
tion plate from the bottom of the
clutch housing. This can be reached
from below the Tournapull.
Have a helper hold clutch pedal in
the "released" position. This is neces-
sary because otherwise the adjusting
straps and studs might become bent
or the threads on the studs or nuts
might become stripped.
94
MAINTENANCE
Back off the adjusting nuts five full
turns each. There are six adjusting
strap nuts on the clutch. To reach
all six nuts, turn the engine over by
hand (with compression released.)
Re-engage the clutch by removing
the foot from the pedal. This will
permit the adjusting plate to move
out of contact with the adjusting
shims. Remove one shim from under
each of the adjusting straps with a
pair of sharp nosed pliers, or insert
cotter pin puller in small hole of shim.
Be sure no portion of the shim is left
between the adjusting plate and fly-
wheel ring; also that the same num-
ber of shims are removed from under
each strap. Release the clutch by
again holding the pedal in the disen-
gaged position. Then tighten all ad-
justing strap nuts.
Re-install the inspection plate and
road test the machine.
MINOR ADJUSTMENTS
In addition to the above adjustment, the following points also
require infrequent attention.
1. After all shims have
been removed, it is possible
to make one pedal adjust-
ment. However, we would
advise against doing this
and suggest instead that
new facings, or preferably
a new driven disc assembly,
be installed.
AFTER THE LAST SHIM
HAS BEEN REMOVED,
ONE ADJUSTMENT OF
THE CLUTCH PEDAL
LINKAGE MAY BE MADE
BEFORE REPLACING THE
DRIVEN DISC OR REFAC-
ING THIS ADJUSTMENT
y MAY USUALLY BE MADE
\ BY BACKING OFF THE
SET SCREW TO PERMIT
BEARING TO CLEAR
..CLUTCH SLEEVE
2. Occasional checks o n
the distance from machined
surface which supports the
shims to face of clutch
sleeve should be made with
clutch engaged. This can
best be done when trans-
mission is removed from
engine. Use a straight
edge and scale as illu-
strated. Hold the straight
edge in place by pushing
release bearing into contact
with straight edge. Dis-
tance "A" should be 1V4",
minus 7/64" for each shim
that has been removed.
HOLD
STRAIGHT
EDGE FIRMLY
BETWEEN
OPERATION
HYDRAULIC
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
There is no set interval for check-
ing the hydraulic brakes for adjust-
ment. Instead, the operation of the
machine serves as a constant check
on the adjustment.
Adjust the brakes whenever
troubled with brake slippage or with
overheating of the brake drum due
to brake drag. Tighten the brakes
when slipping (unless caused by
greasy facings, loose wheel bearings,
or other causes of brake slippage. Re-
fer to Trouble Shooter's Guide). Back
off adjustment when troubled with
over-heating.
The brakes should be atmospheric
or room temperature when making ad-
justments.
1. First raise rear wheels by placing
blocks under rear of Scraper bowl and
then lowering bowl to the ground. Check
the lining to drum clearances at the ad-
justing screw ends of primary and secondary
shoes, using a feeler gauge through holes
(A) and (B) as illustrated. The clearance
should be approximately .020" at the end of
both shoes.
2. If in making the above check, a clear-
ance of approx. 020" (within .003 ') is not
found at each shoe, uncover the adjusting
hole and turn the notched wheel on the
brake adjusting screw as needed to obtain
this clearance, using a screw driver or
brake adjusting tool. Move handle of screw
driver or adjusting tool upward to decrease
clearancedownward to increase clearance.
If equal clearance is not obtained at both
shoes, adjust centralizer as in step 5 and
then adjust to .020" clearance.
3. Now check clearances at anchor pin
ends of primary and secondary shoes, using
feeler gauge through holes (C) and (D).
The clearance should be approx. .008" at
the anchor pin end of both shoes.
96
SECTION
4. If in checking clearances at anchor
pin ends of shoes a clearance of approx.
.008" (within .003") is not found at each
shoe, loosen the anchor pin nuts about one
turn each and turn anchor pins as needed to
obtain the proper clearances. Turning the
arrow point (on nut end of anchor) away
from center of axles moves anchor end of
shoe lining toward the drum and decreases
lining to drum clearances. Turn anchor pin
in opposite direction to increase clearances.
Tighten anchor nuts after obtaining correct
clearances, using a 16" wrench. Each shoe
is adjusted independent of the other.
5. If anchor pins are turned (step 4),
it is necessary to center the centralizer as-
sembly as follows. Back off shoe centralizer
bolt nuts enough to make them just free of
lockwasher tension so that the centralizer can
float freely. Then turn the brake adjusting
screw until brake shoes are expanded tightly
against drum. Tap backing plate near cen-
tralizer with a light hammer to insure cen-
tralizer taking correct position between shoe
ends. Tighten centralizer mounting bolts.
6. Back off adjusting screw only far
enough to permit wheel and brake drum to
turn freely. Cover adjusting hole in backing
plate and lower wheels.
7. The brake pedal which operates the
hydraulic master cylinder should be ad-
justed as follows.
It is important that rod (E) be ad-
justed for clearance where it seats in piston
(F). There should be V4" to /2" of free
movement of brake pedal pad before the
pressure stroke starts. Make adjustment if
necessary by turning compression rod (E)
with wrench. Reach compression rod from
below machine, along right side of trans-
mission. The above clearance will permit
piston (F) to return all the way, leaving
port (G) open through which brake fluid
can pass to perform compensating action
of master cylinder.
Road test machine after completing ad-
justment.
97
OPERATOR'S
NEUTRAl POSITION SPRING
SET SCBEW
MAKE ROLLER ARM
WAKE SPPING
IUTCH 1HBOW NUT
POWER CONTROL UNIT BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
Occasional adjusting of the Power Control Unit brakes is necessary
because of brake lining wear.
There are two points to consider in checking or making the brake
adjustment.
1. The position of the brake roller against the brake cam when
the control lever is in neutral position.
2. The tension of the brake spring.
Check the position of the brake roller against the brake cam every
8 hours of operation. The operation of the Unit serves as a constant
check on the brake spring tension.
HOW TO CHECK ADJUSTMENT
With the control lever in neutral
position, check the position of the
brake roller against the brake cam.
The accompanying drawing illu-
strates the correct relative position of
the brake roller against the cam when
the control lever is in neutral position
(with slack in cable). If the position
of the roller against the cam is not ap-
proximately as illustrated, an adjust-
ment should be made to bring it into
the correct position.
BRAKE
ROLLER
BRAKE CAM
Also, if brake slippage should occur
when the brake is under load, an ad-
justment should be made to increase
the tension of the brake spring.
98
MAINTENANCE
If the brake roller is incorrectly
positioned against the brake cam,
make the adjustment by first loosen-
ing the clamp bolt at the upper end
of the brake roller arm.
Move the brake roller arm by slip-
ping it on the brake shaft, either to
the left or to the right as is required
to bring the brake roller into the cor-
rect position against the brake cam
(approximately 1" down from the
lockout position ).
When the brake roller is correctly
positioned against the cam, tighten
the clamp bolt at the upper end of
the brake roller arm.
To increase the brake spring ten-
sion in event brake slippage occurs,
turn the set screw on the brake arm
in a clockwise direction. This will
raise the arm, thereby changing the
length of the spring and increasing the
spring tension. To decrease the spring
tension, turn the set screw counter-
clockwise. The brake spring should be
adjusted only tight enough to prevent
the brake from slipping when under
load since added tension causes more
effort to be required in disengaging the
brakes than should be necessary.
IMPORTANT Always adjust clutch
after changing position of brake roller against
brake cam.
99
POWER CONTROL UNIT BRAKE SHAFT
BEARING ADJUSTMENT
Since the brake shafts rotate only a part of a turn during operation,
there is very little wear on the bearings. Therefore, the adjustment does
not require frequent attention.
Check the brake shaft bearings for correct adjustment every 1024
hours of operation or when brake slippage is experienced and cannot
be traced to any other source.
To check for bearing looseness, insert a pry bar or similar tool
between brake roller arm and gear case, and by prying in and out,
detect any end movement of shaft. If end movement is noticeable, the
bearings are loose.
To check for bearing tightness, remove brake spring and disconnect
brake band from brake shaft. Then rotate shaft by hand. If shaft does
not turn freely, the bearings are adjusted too tight.
If bearings are adjusted too tight or if there is noticeable looseness,
an adjustment should be made.
To make adjustment, first remove
brake spring. Then proceed as fol-
lows:
1. Loosen clamp bolt at upper
end of roller arm. Then remove cotter
pin from castellated nut at end of
brake shaft.
2. To tighten the bearings, turn
the castellated nut located at the
upper end of the roller arm clockwise
on the brake shaft. To loosen the
bearings, turn the nut counter-clock-
wise.
The adjustment is correct when
bearings are free rolling and without
end play.
When correct adjustment is
reached, re-install cotter pin and
tighten clamp bolt. Also install brake
spring.
100
OPERATION SECTION
POWER CONTROL UNIT CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT
There is no set interval for checking the clutches for adjustment.
Rather, the operation of the unit by the operator serves as a constant
check on the adjustment.
If operating a Power Control Unit having an incorrectly adjusted
clutch, the operator will have difficulty in making the Power Control
Unit function properly, and there will be symptoms which will indicate
to the operator that the clutch is incorrectly adjusted. These symptoms
are: (1) Travel of control lever from neutral to the fully engaged
position too great for efficient operation, (2) Clutch won't fully engage,
(3) Clutch slippage, (4) Clutch won't release, (5) Clutch dragging, (6)
Brake won't fully release, (7) Overheating as a result of the above.
If troubled by one or more of the above symptoms when operating
the unit, it is an indication that the clutch is probably incorrectly ad-
justed and an adjustment should be made
There are three factors which affect the clutch adjustment and
which cause the symptoms listed above:
1. Incorrect amount of clearance between driving cone and
driven cone when control lever is in neutral. This clearance
regulates the distance the driving cone must travel to
fully engage the driven cone. Since this clearance cannot
be measured accurately without difficulty, it is usually
thought of in terms of the distance the control lever
travels between neutral and the fully engaged position.
If the cones are spaced too far apart, the travel of the
control lever from neutral to the fully engaged position
will be so great that it will be difficult for the operator to
efficiently operate the unit. If spaced too close the driving
cone may drag on the driven cone when the control lever
is in neutral position. The clearance between the driving
and driven cone is correct when the travel at the top of
the control lever from the neutral to the fully engaged
positions is approximately 9".
2. Main gear incorrectly spaced inside gear case. If spaced
too far to the rear the gear will strike reduction gear inside
gear case as control lever is moved to engage clutch, pre-
venting the clutch from fully engaging. If spaced too far
to the front it will strike against front side of gear case as
the control lever moves in the direction that releases the
brake, preventing control level from being moved into
lock-out position, and possibly preventing the brake from
fully releasing.
3. Insufficient clearance between the brake cam and throw
nut bushing. If there is insufficient clearance at this point,
the brake cam will ride against the throw nut bushing
before the driving cone becomes fully engaged in the driven
cone, thereby preventing the clutch from fully engaging.
With the control lever in the fully engaged position there
should be some clearance at this point.
By making the clutch adjustment as outlined on the following pages,
the three possible sources of trouble listed above will be corrected. If
the same symptoms are present after making the adjustment, the diffi-
culty is caused from some other source, and a different correction must
be made. (Refer to Trouble Shooters Guide in Repair Section.)
101
OPERATOR'S
HOW TO MAKE POWER CON-
TROL UNIT CLUTCH AD-
JUSTMENT
To adjust either clutch, first make
sure that the brake roller is correctly
positioned against brake cam (refer to
brake adjustment instructions on Page
98).
Then proceed as follows:
1. Move control lever into the
lock-out position (extreme brake re-
leased position). Leave lever in this
position and loosen drum shaft clamp
bolts at rear end of drum shaft.
2. With control lever in lock-out
position, turn drum shaft with a
wrench, bringing the driving cone and
driven cone together tight. (If ad-
justing the right clutch turn the right
shaft in a clockwise direction. If ad-
justing the left clutch turn the left
shaft in a counter-clockwise direc-
tion.)
3. Insert a pry bar between rear plate
and cable drum and pry drum as-
sembly toward the Tournapull as far
as it will go.
4. Insert the bar between the driving
cone and gear case cover plate and
pry the assembly in the opposite di-
rection Va" to 3/16". This will cor-
rectly space main gear inside gear
case.
102
MAINTENANCE
5. Place a wrench on end of drum
shaft and move control lever from
lock-out position, back to a point ap-
proximately 7" past neutral position,
allowing the wrench to turn with drum
shaft as control lever is moved. (If
unit is hot, 7" movement should be
increased slightly, due to expanded
condition of driven cone.) The drum
shaft will turn with the control lever
in making this part of the adjustment.
(The above 7" travel of control lever
from neutral to fully engaged position
will give approximately 9" travel of
lever in actual operation after adjust-
ment has been completed. This
amount of travel;will provide proper
clearance between driving cone and
driven cone when in neutral position.)
6. Hold the drum shaft from turning
by holding the wrench stationary, and
return the control lever to neutral
position.
7. Then, without turning the drum
shaft, clamp the drum shaft to the
rear plate by tightening the drum
shaft clamp bolts, turning them down
evenly.
8. Fully engage clutch and check for
clearance between brake cam and
throw nut bushing. There should be
some clearance at this point. If there
is no clearance, release clamp bolt
from brake cam and space cam fur-
ther out on clutch throw nut, without
changing the relative position of the
cam. Then re-tighten the clamp bolt.
Important:
The above steps in making the
clutch adjustment must be made in
the order given and no steps can be
eliminated.
103
BRAKE
CAM
OPERATION SECTION
BLEEDING HYDRAULIC LINES
Whenever a hydraulic brake line has been disconnected at the
master cylinder, it is necessary to "bleed" the hydraulic system at both
rear wheels to expel all air. Whenever a line is disconnected from the
wheel, that wheel cylinder only must be bled.
Fill the master cylinder supply tank with a high quality hydraulic
brake fluid (HB), before beginning this operation, and keep the tank
at least half full of fluid at all times. Remove capscrew from end of
bleeder connection and screw in standard bleeder drain tube. Allow
tube to hang in clean container, such as a pint Mason jar. Unscrew
the bleeder connection three-quarters of a turn and depress foot pedal
slowly by hand, allowing return spring to return pedal slowly to "ofP
position. This produces a pumping action which forces fluid through
tubing and out at wheel cylinder, carrying with it any air that may be
present.
Watch flow of fluid from hose, the end of which should be kept be-
low surface of fluid; when all air bubbles cease to appear and when
fluid stream is a solid mass, close bleeder connection. Remove bleeder
drain tube, and replace capscrew.
Fluid withdrawn in "bleeding" operation should not be used again.
Fluid should be replenished in supply tank after each cylinder is bled.
Should supply tank be drained during bleeding operation, air will enter
the system, and "re-bleeding" will then be necessary. When bleeding
operation is completed, supply tank must be refilled.
To prevent brake drag, it is necessary that the small port in the
master cylinder be open when the brake pedal is in release position.
(See pedal adjustment instructions on page 97.)
TIRE INFLATION
Keep the tires correctly inflated at all times.
Check the tire pressures every eight hours of operation if possible
never when tires are hot.
"Bleeding" tires (reducing pressures to recommended levels when
they are hot) is not recommended. If the hot tire is bled, it is allowed
to deflect more and the increased flexing continues to increase the
heat. This in turn increases pressure. If the pressure is again relieved
by bleeding, the cycle of increased flexing and overheating is repeated.
When the air in the tire has cooled to atmospheric temperature, it
contracts and as a result of bleeding, the tire is far below correct pressure.
Thus bleeding leads to two extremes of harmful operation. Oneex-
cessive uncontrolled heating which causes deterioration and results in
tire separation and blowout. The otherunderinflation with the result-
ant damage as described previously.
The following table gives the recommended pressures for the tires
when operating in different job conditions. Both the performance of the
machine and the life of the tires are dependent upon the maintenance of
the air pressures shown in the chart. Make sure that they are closely
followed.
RECOMMENDED PRESSURES
TIRES
Job Condition
Job Condition
Job Condition
TRACTION TIRES
2 (21.00x24) 20 ply
35 Ib.
30 Ib.
40 Ib.
SCRAPER TIRES
2 (18.00x24) 20 ply
50 Ib.
45 Ib.
55 Ib.
JOB CONDITION "A"Average Scraper Conditions.
JOB CONDITION "B"Loose, sandy soil, or soft underfoot conditions,
with no large boulders, on short hauls under 2500 ft. one way, where
lots of flotation and traction are required. (A variation of job
condition "B" might be loading blasted or scarified rock or rotten
shale, with the effective loads a few yards less than the heaped
capacity.)
JOB CONDITION "C"Long, one way hauls of from 2500 ft. to 10,000
ft. or over, on compacted and maintained haul roads with normal
loading conditions in the pit or cut.
NOTE: Watch drive (traction) tires closely for slippage on the rim
when they are inflated to pressures under 35 Ibs. If slippage occurs, go
to higher pressures. To help prevent slippage on the rim, inflate tires
to 15 or 20 Ibs. above recommended working pressure when mounted
and then reduce to recommended pressure. This will help seat the tire
on the rim base and flanges.
To cause the Scraper blade to cut level, it is important that the
rear tires be inflated to equal pressures.
105
OPERATION SECTION
CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF TIRES
Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the importance of
proper tire care and maintenance. In removing and installing tires,
follow closely the instructions on page 124 and 165. Always keep the
tires correctly inflated, because incorrect inflation may cause damage
to the tires.
INFLATION:
Inflation relates, of course, to the air under pressure in the tire. The
properly inflated tire cushions the bumps and adjusts itself to surface
and load. If the air pressure is kept at the proper amount, the tire will
give long trouble-free service under normal load and road conditions.
Both overinflation and underinflation will in time bring about ir-
reparable damage to the tire body. Air is the primary load carrier and
shock absorber, and the Tournapull tires are built to give maximum
load-carrying capacity, maximum strength and maximum resistance to
shock at the recommended air pressure.
Normal deflection of tires used on earthmoving equipment is wider
than that used on cars and trucks.
Many a careful, but uninformed operator, upon seeing the wide
deflection peculiar to an earth-mover tire, will jump to the conclusion
that it is under-inflated and proceed to add air pressure until the tire
assumes the shape he is accustomed to see on highway tires. This
mistake is directly responsible for hundreds of ruined tires.
Overinflation: A tire that is properly inflated is like a well-
tempered spring. But if the pressure is increased and the tire becomes
over-inflated, instead of a spring at correct tension, it acts as a stiff
spring and the air will not cushion the shocks properly. Some of the
blow will be transmitted to the axle but the major part will be con-
centrated on a relatively few cords of the tire casing already strained by
excess air pressure. It is likely that the cords will give way, and leave
an X-break as illustrated.
Overinflation also causes a too narrow contact with the ground,
resulting in a narrow strip in the center of the tread taking all of the
wear. It is obvious that a given load on a smaller surface wears that area
of tread much faster than if the same load were distributed over a larger
area. Much good rubber remains on the outer edges of the tread.
Continual maintenance of the
proper air pressure will distribute the
wear evenly over the full tread area
and add many hours of service life
to the tire.
Underinflation: The Tournapull
and Scraper tires are designed to
work at low pressures, but they must
be the correct low pressures, those
specified in the preceding instructions.
106
MAINTENANCE
Underinflation is even more harm-
ful than overinflation. The accomp-
anying illustration is an actual photo-
graph of the inside of a comparatively
new tire, showing the damage caused
by too low air pressure. The fabric
breaks run clear around both sides.
Heat is generated by excessive flexing
in the under-inflated tire. Excessive
heat deteriorates the tire, and results in separation within the tire and
blowouts. Keep air pressures at levels recommended.
The tires on the Tournapull and Scraper are built to give good
service at recommended lower pressures within certain speed and load
limits. If run at too low pressure, there isn't enough air to support the
load and the unsupported sidewalls are irreparably damaged.
SPINNING THE DRIVE OR TRACTION WHEELS
This is caused by the driver's attempt to pull too heavy a load
or to start too quickly. It results in excessive tread wear.
SQUIRMING A TIRE:
This means locking one drive wheel to make a short, sharp turn.
The grinding, twisting action which results from this practice damages
the tread and materially reduces the life of the tire.
DRIVING OVER OBSTACLES:
Rolling a tire over an obstacle which can just as easily be avoided
is another common abuse which takes a toll in tires. A sharp rock or
edge concentrates the blow in such a way that it may weaken or break
the fabric, particularly in an overinflated tire. Reasonable care in avoid-
ing obstacles will minimize the hazard and eliminate much premature
tire failure. Maintenance of haul roads also reduces this hazard. Where
a grader is not patrolling regularly, occasionally drop the Scraper
blade and drag the road on the return trip, as the road becomes littered
with sharp stones and spillage from the Scraper.
"NICKING" THE TIRE:
When pusher loading with a Bulldozer or Angledozer, don't allow
'Dozer blade to gouge rear tires.
TIRE BOOTS:
A boot should be used only to get a little additional service from
a tire beyond repair.
TREAD ABRASION:
To prevent destructive abrasion of tread or sidewall the tire must
have clearance for free rotation without rubbing against any part of the
Tournapull or any attachment thereon. Avoid striking the drive tires
against the yoke when turning.
107
DAMAGE TO RIM:
Damage to a rim may cause abnormal strain in the bead region of
the tire. If the flange of the rim becomes bent it should be straightened
at once. Otherwise it provides no support for the tire bead, which will
finally give way under abnormal distortion and strain.
SLOW LEAKS:
Obviously, slow leaks cause underinflation. It is not sufficient to
inflate the tire every day to the proper pressure after slow leak loss.
Whenever a loss of as much as 5 pounds in 24 hours is discovered, the
cause of the leak should be determined and corrected immediately.
Defective valves should be replaced at once. Except in emergency, tires
should be inflated only when they are at atmospheric temperature.
VALVE CAPS
A valve without a cap picks up sand, gravel, dirt and water. This
is easily avoided. Keep valve caps on all valves.
OIL, GREASE AND GASOLINE:
Oil and grease, if allowed to remain on the tire, will ruin it by mak-
ing the rubber soft and spongy. If oil and grease can not be avoided,
they should at least be kept wiped off. Do not use gasoline to clean a
tire, as gasoline likewise softens the rubber.
REPAIRS:
Repair at once any deep injuries which penetrate to the cord body
of the tire, allowing dirt and water to enter. Single small cuts which do
not gap or bulge, but leave only a hair line opening, will cause no damage.
However, when a cut shows any sign of a gap or bulge, it should be
repaired.
CABLE
LeTourneau Tournapulls and Scrapers are designed for use with
Tournarope or other high quality wire rope meeting the following speci-
fications: 6 x 19 wire rope of Warrington construction with strand
center, preformed, Langlay, and made from improved plow steel. It
should be internally lubricated during the manufacturing process. (Dif-
ferent cable of equal construction can be used without harmful results.)
For sizes of cable (diameter and length) refer to the Parts
Catalog. Do not use larger diameter cable than that specified in the
Parts Catalog or damage to the equipment may result. If smaller cable
than specified is used, frequent cable breakage may occur.
CARE OF CABLE
Proper care and treatment of cable is very important and will pay
big dividends in the way of longer cable life. Listed below are a few
helpful suggestions along this line.
(1) Use the recommended sizes of cable, as the design of the
sheave wheels vary somewhat for cables having different diameters.
108
OPERATION SECTION
(2) Check cables every 8 hours of operation for excessive wear,
kinks, etc. , that might result in cable breakage or failure.
The dump cable normally wears faster than the other cables. To
obtain maximum life from this cable, it is necessary to occasionally cut
off the end of the cable that wraps onto the cable drum and to feed
through enough cable from the spare cable reel to replace that which
was cut off. If in checking the cable at the above interval, it is found
that the part that wraps onto the cable drum has become frayed with
possibly one or more of the six main strands broken, it is then necessary
to cut off the bad portion back to the point where the cable is not
damaged.
Due to difference in operators, job conditions, etc., the time intervals
at which this cable must be cut off varies considerably.
(3) When installing new cables on the Power Control Unit cable
drums, make sure the cables reeve evenly onto the drums. Do not permit
the cable to criss-cross or stack up on the drum.
(4) Replace sheave wheels having badly worn cable grooves, es-
pecially those having a rope lay impression worn into them.
(5) Always make sure that the sheave wheels and tailgate rollers
are turning and that none are broken, because if either of these is not
functioning properly, the cable will wear extremely fast.
(6) Do not allow an excessive amount of slack in the cables,
thereby causing the cables to become kinked.
(7) Apply OE-10 or OE-30 to the cable sparingly at infrequent
intervals to serve as a rust preventative.
THREADING CABLE ONTO POWER CONTROL UNIT
As a safety measure, the Tournapull engine should be shut off
before attempting to thread the cable onto the Power Control Unit
cable drums.
To correctly thread the cable onto either the left or right cable
drum, first pull several feet of slack in the cable. Then insert the end
of the cable out through hole (A) in the cable drum flange, pulling
a few feet of cable through the hole. Insert the cable back through
hole (B) and out through hole (C), not drawing cable tight through
holes. Extend the end of the cable through loop (D), allowing approxi-
mately 1" of the cable to protrude from end of loop.
Hold the cable in this position and pull all slack between loop (D)
and hole (C) back through hole (C). Then pull all slack between holes
(C) and (B) out through hole (B)
and all slack between holes (B) and (A)
out through hole (A), drawing the cable
tight. Start the Tournapull engine. Then,
with the engine idling, engage the Power
Control Unit clutch and spool the slack
cable evenly onto the cable drum.
109
OPERATION SECTION
CABLE THREADING
The following cable threading instructions, together with the ac-
companying cable threading diagram, give complete information needed
for threading the cable through the Scraper.
HOIST CABLE
(Cable extending from Power Control Unit right cable drum to hoist sheaves
on pushbeum.)
From right drum of Power Control Unit, cable extends up and over fairlead
sheave in housing A
Then back and under sheave in housing B
Then back through housing C and then up and enters outside sheave in housing . . D
Cable then goes back and enters outside sheave in pushbeam housing E
Then forward to the center sheave in housing D
Then back and over the inside sheave in housing E
Then forward and enter bottom of inside sheave in housing D
Then back and around sheave in housing F
Then forward and enter inside sheave in housing Q
Then back and over inside sheave in housing H
Then forward to the outside sheave in housing G
Then back and over the outside sheave in housing H
Then forward and anchor cable at cable wedge on the side of housing G
APRON LIFT CABLE
(Cable extending from apron sliding sheave, above springpipe. to apron.)
The apron lift cable is first anchored in sliding sheave housing K (located in
channel above springpipe) at cable wedge T
Then cable goes up and over sheave in housing U
Then down and anchor cable at apron cable wedge V
IMPORTANT: Raise apron to make sure that sheave housing K strikes stop block
at front of sheave housing J before apron strikes against top of arched A-frame.
If apron strikes A-frame, let out on cable at wedge T or V enough to prevent
apron from striking A-frame when in extreme raised position.
DUMP CABLE
(Cable extending from Power Control Unit left cable drum to sliding sheave
housings above springpipe.)
From cable spool at rear of Scraper, unspool approximately 126 feet of cable,
leaving extra cable wrapped on reel.
Take end of cable and extend from left to right around top sheave in sliding
sheave housing M
Then back and around top sheave in housing J
Then forward and around center sheave in housing M
Then back and around second sheave from top in housing J
Then forward and around bottom sheave in housing M
Then back through housing J and around sheave in housing L
Then forward and around the top sheave in housing K
Then back and around second sheave from bottom in housing J
Then forward and around lower sheave in housing K
Then back and around bottom sheave in housing J
Then forward and over sheave I at top of A-frame.
Then down and enter bottom of sheave on left side of yoke and then over
fairlead sheaves on left side of yoke and down to left drum of Power Control
Unit. Place two wraps of cable on drum.
With tailgate in rear position and apron lowered, take slack out of cable and
anchor cable at wedge N on rear sheave housing J.
Spool excess cable onto cable spool and tighten the wing bolt to keep cable
spool from turning.
110
LEFT AND RIGHT DETERMINED BY STANDING AT
REAR OF SCRAPER AND LOOKING FORWARD
TAILGATE FORWARD CABLE
(Cable extending from tailgate sliding sheave above springpipe to either side
of tailgate.)
Tailgate forward cable is anchored to cable wedge O
Then forward and around sheave in housing P
Then up and around lower A-frame sheave Q
Then up and enter al top of A-frame sheave R
Then back to sliding sheave housing M (located above springpipe) and around
equalizer sheave S
The cable is then carried down around the sheaves on the opposite side of
Scraper in the manner just described for the right side and then anchored
to the left side of the tailgate at a cable wedge corresponding with wedge . . . O
IMPORTANT: Pull tailgate ahead to make sure that the tailgate moves to
the front of the Scraper and also that sheave housing M strikes against stop
block on front of sheave housing J before tailgate roller arms strike against
structural members at front of Scraper side sheets near A-frame. If tailgate
roller arms strike structural members at front of side sheets, let out on cable
at cable wedge O enough to prevent tailgate from striking when pulled into
extreme forward position. If tailgate does not move to front of Scraper
bowl take up cable at wedge O
111
REPLACING SPRINGPIPE CABLE
If the springpipe cable breaks, it can be replaced by the following procedure:
First pull through several feet of slack on the dump cable above springpipe
and pull the tailgate sliding sheave to the top of sliding sheave channel by hand.
Then pry tailgate to its extreme rear position, using a bar.
Remove the two 1' o pipe plugs located on the sides of the springpipe near
the upper end. Insert a pry bar through one of pipe plug holes and part way
through springpipe to hold tailgate return springs in a slightly compressed condition,
keeping them from coming out end of springpipe when performing the following
step.
Disconnect apron lift cable from apron and place one end of a 4"x4"x72" block
against apron lift sheave at front of springpipe and other end against the A-frame
at top of yoke where pushbeam hinges, and then lower the bowl. By doing this,
the spring pressure is relieved from the capscrews which hold the sheave housing
plate to the springpipe, and the capscrews can then be removed without them
binding and without danger to the workman.
After the capscrews have been removed, raise the Scraper bowl, relieving
spring pressure from the 72" block, and also from the sheave housing plate, permitting
both the block and plate to be removed. Now remove the old springpipe cable
and insert new cable through spring pull plate and down through springpipe, rotating
cable to prevent it from catching on springs.
Fasten upper end of cable to spring pull plate
with cable wedge (A). Then go to rear of
Scraper and extend remaining end of new cable
out through hole at bottom of springpipe.
Then, with the Scraper bowl in the raised
position, place the 72" block against the
spring pull plate and yoke A Frame where the
pushbeam hinges, and gradually lower Scraper
bowl, at the same time removing the bar from
pipe plug hole in the side of springpipe, thereby
compressing springs until the distance between
cable wedge (A) and the end of springpipe
PUSHBEAM
112
OPERATION
SPRINGPl!
BIE ON DRUM
is approximately 23". With the tailgate in the
extreme rear position, take all the slack out
of spiral sheave-to-tailgate cable and wrap the
springpipe cable Vi wrap on the drum on the
left side of the spiral sheave, dead-ending it
at cable wedge (B), with all the slack taken
out of the cable by hand.
Raise the Scraper bowl, releasing the spring
pressure from the 72" block and transferring
it onto the cable. Remove the 72" block. With
the apron lowered and the tailgate in the rear
position, there should be a distance of ap-
proximately 14" to 16 between cable wedge
(A) and end of springpipe. Re-install the
sheave housing plate, apron lift cable and
pipe plugs to complete the cable replacement.
If after a long period of operation the spring tension should decrease enough
to permit the tailgate to move forward before the apron raises or if the spring tension
should not be great enough to return the tailgate all the way to the rear, the above
mentioned 14" to 16 distance between cable wedge (A) and the end of the spring-
pipe should be increased to give additional spring tension.
To do this, compress the tailgate return springs by use of the 72" block as out-
lined above, leaving a slightly greater distance than the above 23 inches between
cable wedge (A) and the end of the springpipe. Then pry the tailgate to the rear,
as outlined above, and increase the spring tension by taking up enough slack
springpipe cable at wedge (B) to give the desired spring tension, and retighten
the wedge.
NOTE: Never attempt to increase the spring tension by taking up on the
spiral sheave-to-tailgate cable as this would change the timing of the spiral sheave.
REPLACING SPIRAL SHEAVE-TO-TAILGATE CABLE
If the spiral sheave-to-tailgate cable breaks, it can be replaced by the following
procedure.
Remove the old cable from the spiral sheave and tailgate. Then rotate spiral
sheave wheel by hand, taking all slack out of springpipe cable. Anchor the new
cable at spiral sheave with wedge (C). Place one wrap of cable around the spiral
sheave wheel. Then, with all the slack taken out of cable, anchor the remaining
end to the tailgate with wedge (D).
Remove the two lV4 pipe plugs located on either side of springpipe near the
upper end. Then pull tailgate forward with Power Control Unit enough to allow
a bar to be inserted ahead of the spring pull plate, through the two pipe plug holes
in the springpipe.
Then, with the bar in place, release Power Control Unit dump brake slowly
until spring pull plate presses against bar. The bar will now hold the springs
in a compressed condition. Then pry the tailgate to its extreme rear position.
Remove cable wedge (D) from the tailgate
and take all slack out of spiral sheave-to-tail-
gate cable, leaving 2" distance between the
end of the groove and cable. (This 2" dimen-
sion will decrease to approximately IV'z" as
illustrated after completing following step
when cable is under tension.) Re-install cable
wedge (D) and pull tailgate forward with
Power Control Unit. Then remove pry bar
from springpipe. Check for 1' i' dimension be-
tween cable and groove on spiral sheave, and
if correct, replace pipe plugs.
EARANCE BETWEEN
ROOVE AND CABLE
113
OPERATION SECTION
BLADES
The Scraper is equipped with a 3 piece offset blade as standard.
Each of the three sections of blade is self sharpening and reversible.
The off-set center section makes possible easier loading. The self
sharpening feature is brought about by the hard-facing metal welded
along the edges of the blades. With the blades correctly installed, the
hard-facing metal along the front edge of the blade is on the top side,
as illustrated. Because the softer heel of the blade wears away more
rapidly than the hard-faced top side, the blade will grow sharper
with use.
HARD-FACING
METAL
3 PIECE OFFSET BLADE
By being hard-faced along both edges, the blades are reversible.
Therefore, when a blade has become worn along one edge, it can be
reversed rather than replaced, and the blades will therefore last ap-
proximately twice as long as blades that are non-reversible.
In addition to the 3 piece off-set blade, a one piece straight blade
is also available for use on jobs where fine finishing is to be done with
the Scraper. This blade also is self-sharpening and reversible. Although
finishing can be done with the three piece off-set blade, it can normally
be done more efficiently with this straight blade.
CHANGING BLADES
The Scraper blades should be
changed before they wear back in-
to the blade base. When worn back
to the point where they should be
changed, the procedure below
should be followed.
Hoist the Scraper bowl to its
full height and place blocks under
the bowl to prevent it from drop-
ping in case some one should acci-
114
dentally release the power control unit hoist brake. The apron should like-
wise be raised to its full height and blocks placed between the apron arms
and side sheets to keep it from dropping in case the brake on the dump
cable is accidentally released. Then, using the blade wrench, remove
the bolts that secure the blades to the blade base. If the blades have
not already been reversed, they can be used again by turning them over
and wearing them along the other edge. If reversing the end blades, it
is necessary not only to turn them over but also to move them from
one side of the Scraper to the other.
After laying the blades in place, the use of a round drift punch will
be very helpful in lining up the holes. Re-install the blade bolts, tighten-
ing them down evenly and making sure they are all tight.
When installing new blades instead of reversing worn ones, the
same procedure as outlined above should be used.
When installing blades, make sure that they are turned with the
beveled edges positioned as illustrated.
CHANGING GROUND PLATES
The Scraper ground plates should be changed before they wear
back into the base to which they are bolted. When they have worn to
the point where it is necessary to change them, the procedure outlined
below should be followed.
First, block the apron arms and bowl in the raised position as when
changing blades.
Remove bolts which secure ground
plates to Scraper side sheets. If the
ground plates have not already been re-
versed, they can be used again by turn-
ing them over and wearing them along
the other edge.
If reversing a ground plate, turn it
over and end for end. After reversing,
insert the bolts and draw them up tight.
Use the same procedure when instal-
ling new ground plates.
115
OPERATION SECTION
PREPARATION FOR STORAGE
For instructions for preparing the machine for storage, refer to
Tentative Technical Manual TM5-9715, "Storage of Engineer Equip-
ment", issued by Engineer Field Maintenance Office, P.O. Box 1679,
Columbus, Ohio, (superseding Tentative Preventative Maintenance
Manual, "Storage of Engineer Equipment", April 28, 1943).
PREPARATION FOR EXPORT SHIPMENT
For instructions covering the preparation of the Tournapull for
export shipment, refer to Technical Bulletin TB5-1202-1, Preparation
for export of "Scraper, Motorized, Cable Operated, Model Super C
Tournapull, with Model LP Carryall," issued by Engineer Field Main-
tenance Office, P. O. Box 1679, Columbus, Ohio.
116
>
sccnon
RCPfllR
SECT. 2
REPAIR SECTION
The instructions in this part of the manual give complete informa-
tion for servicing, overhauling and repairing the machine. It includes
instructions for all servicing procedures other than those performed exclu-
sively by Operators, which are contained in the Operation Section.
The Repair Section is divided into the following four parts: (1)
Tournapull Repair Section, (2) Engine Repair Section, (3) Power Con-
trol Unit Repair Section, and (4) Scraper Repair Section. Included in
each of these four parts are instructions for disassembly, inspection of
parts for replacement or repair, re-assembly, the making of adjustments,
and other necessary servicing procedures.
A "Table of Clearances and Tolerances of Bearings and Adjustable
Parts" and a "Trouble Shooter's Guide" will also be found at the rear of
the Repair Section.
The chart below gives a complete list of hour intervals for servicing
the machine.
DURING OPERATION
Observe oil pressure gauge. Pressure should be 30 to 50 Ibs.
Observe water temperature gauge. Water temperature should be 140D
F. to 180 F.
WHENEVER NEEDED (As evidenced by operator).
Adjust Power Control Unit clutches.
Adjust steering clutches.
Adjust steering brakes.
Adjust flywheel clutch.
Adjust hydraulic brakes.
EVERY 8 HOURS
Check Power Control Unit brake adjustment.
Check tire pressures.
Check crankcase oil level.
Clean and change oil in crankcase breather.
Check water level in radiator.
Remove and clean pre-cleaner jars on air cleaner. (Oftener if re-
quired)
Look for leaks of lubricating oil, fuel oil, and water from around
engine connections.
Lubricate sheave bearings.
Lubricate fairlead sheave housing pivot bearings.
Lubricate tailgate roller bearings.
Lubricate spiral sheave wheel bearings.
Lubricate hinge pins.
Check air cleaners to see if oil in sumps need replenishing.
Check batteries and add water if needed.
117
REPAIR SECTION
EVERY 64 HOURS
Clean engine thoroughly on outside.
Clean air passages in radiator.
Drain, flush and refill engine crankcase to proper height with proper
oil.
Change oil in air cleaners. Clean air passages.
Drain off condensation from fuel supply tank.
Drain two or three tablespoons of fuel oil from the float chamber of
the fuel pump to remove water, especially in cold weather.
Check oil level in Power Control Unit gear case.
Lubricate Tournapull control levers.
Lubricate hydraulic brake pedal.
Lubricate flywheel clutch release yoke.
Clean main case breather.
Lubricate ball and socket hitch.
Lubricate Power Control Unit brake rollers.
Check Scraper wheel bearing adjustment.
Change lube oil filter bag.
Change cartridge in DeLuxe lube oil filter.
Check oil level in main case.
Check oil level in transmission.
Check tension of water pump drive belts.
EVERY 128 HOURS
Change fuel oil filter bag.
EVERY 256 HOURS
Check Scraper fairlead sheave housing bearing adjustment.
Lubricate generator.
Lubricate flywheel clutch release bearing.
Lubricate drawbar.
Clean fuel pump screen.
Adjust injectors.
Adjust intake and exhaust valves.
Check Power Control Unit cable drum bearing adjustments.
Check Power Control Unit main gear bearing adjustments.
Clean air cleaners thoroughly.
EVERY 512 HOURS
Lubricate Scraper springpipe.
Change oil in Tournapull main case.
Change oil in transmission.
Hand-pack Scraper wheel bearings with grease.
Clean and oil cranking motor bearings and screw shaft of Dyer drive.
118
REPAIR SECTION
Service generator and cranking motor.
Check the injectors for clean spray holes.
Check final drive pinion bearing adjustments.
Check final drive axle bearing adjustments.
EVERY 1024 HOURS
Lubricate water pump.
Change oil in Power Control Unit gear case.
Lubricate Power Control Unit cable drum bearings.
Check fuel inlet connection check valves.
Check, clean and repair all electric connections.
Check Power Control Unit brake shaft bearings.
Check the fan assembly.
Check transmission mainshaft bearing adjustment.
Check spiral bevel gear carrier bearing adjustment.
EVERY 2048 HOURS
Hand-pack brake shaft bearings.
Hand-pack Power Control Unit control lever bearings.
Test the compression by barring the engine over. If necessary grind
valves.
If valves are being ground at this period, check the ball and socket
links at the push rods, rocker arms, and injector links. These
parts must always have a good seat; otherwise there will be an
excessive loss of lubricating oil.
EVERY 4096 HOURS
Clean the oil pan. Remove the screen and remove all sludge and
accumulated dirt.
While the oil pan is off, check the connecting rods and main bearings
without removing. If necessary to replace any of the connecting
rod and main bearings, it is best to replace the entire set.
Check the piston pins and bushings.
If the pistons are pulled, replace piston rings with new ones.
Check and record cylinder liner wear.
Check the lubricating oil pump and rebuild if badly worn.
This period is generally chosen as the one for a major overhaul. If
a major overhaul is to be undertaken at this time, all the six
operations described above will, of course, be covered in addi-
tion to repair of all the engine units as described in the Engine
Repair Section.
PERIODICALLY, AS REQUIRED
Hand-pack flywheel clutch pilot bearing with grease wherever
clutch is disassembled.
Fill hydraulic brake master cylinder with hydraulic brake fluid.
Lubricate Scraper pushbeam and sliding sheave channel.
Lubricate cable.
Adjust drawbar.
119
Part One
TOURNAPULL
REPAIR SECTION
TOURNAPULL
DISASSEMBLING
REPAIR SECTION
DISCONNECTING TOURNA-
PULL FROM SCRAPER
To remove the deck plate for disassem-
bling certain parts of the Tournapull, it is
first necessary to disconnect the Tournapull
from the Scraper. This can be done as fol-
lows:
1. Block up the front of the Tournapull,
with the front raised only slightly above level,
as shown. Use only good, solid cribbing, with
the top members turned lengthwise as shown.
The top members should also be spaced in-
side the steps. Both the construction of the
cribbing and the level of the front of the
Tournapull are important.
2. Disconnect the Scraper yoke from the
drawbar by disconnecting the safety cable and
| removing the capscrews which secure the
drawbar clamp blocks to the yoke.
3. Engage the Power Control Unit hoist
clutch, and raise the Scraper bowl to the point
where there remains approximately 3" to 4"
space between the pushbeam stops. Then,
with the Scraper raised in this position, block
up under the Scraper blade as shown. The
use of good, solid cribbing reduces the hazards
of this operation. Also block the rear wheels
to keep the Scraper from rolling or sliding off
the blocks.
4. In hoisting the Scraper, the lower end
of the yoke will move to the rear, away from
the drawbar as shown.
5. Remove the wires from the heads of
the capscrews which secure the retainer plate
to the lower end of the hitch ball, and then
remove the capscrews and retainer plate. Also
disconnect the Scraper light wire and the
hydraulic brake line at the points of connect-
ion near the ball and socket hitch.
122
REPAIR SECTION
6. Place a jack of at least 5 ton capacity
below the yoke as shown, and raise the yoke
a few inches.
7. It is usually necessary to strike the
rear of the deck plate a few blows with a
sledge at the point shown to free the tapered
shank of the hitch ball from the taper in
which it seats.
8. After the hitch ball has been broken
free from its tapered seat, raise the yoke high
enough to permit the lower end of the hitch
ball to clear the deck plate.
9. If available, blocks should be placed
under the yoke as shown. The Tournapull
can now be driven forward on the cribbing,
away from the Scraper yoke. In moving the
Tournapull ahead, shift the transmission into
low gear and then ease out on the flywheel
clutch pedal a little at a time. Be very careful
to avoid knocking over the cribbing.
CONNECTING TOURNAPULL TO SCRAPER
To re-connect a Tournapull to a Scraper, reverse the procedure out-
lined above for disconnecting. After re-connecting the brake lines, the
brakes should be bled as outlined in the "bleeding" instructions on page
104 of the Operation Section.
123
REPAIR SECTION
DISASSEMBLING TOURNAPULL
The instructions on the following pages give complete instructions
for disassembling the Tournapull, except disassembly of the engine,
which is covered in the Engine Repair Section. Engine removal is cov-
ered on the following pages, however, inasmuch as it is necessary to
remove the engine to disassemble certain other parts of the Tournapull.
k/ LOCKING RING
REMOVING WHEELS
To remove the Tournapull drive wheels.
first raise the wheels off the ground. Block
up under the Tournapull and then remove
the wheel capscrews as illustrated, using the
special wrench supplied with the Tournapull.
REMOVING TIRES
To remove the tires, first remove the lock-
ing rings as illustrated.
Then remove the sliding ring from the
wheel rim.
The tire can now be raised off the wheel,
using a hoist. A lifting hook of the type il-
lustrated or a rope sling can be used to good
advantage.in handling these large tires.
124
WH
TOURNAPULL REPAIR
REMOVING DECK PLATE
To remove the Tournapull deck plate, it
is first necessary to disconnect the Tournapull
from the Scraper as per preceding instruc-
tions. Then proceed as follows:
Remove the operator's seat by removing
the capscrews which secure the seat bracket
to the deck plate.
Disconnect and remove the steering clutch
and brake linkage shown in the illustration.
Then remove the Power Control Unit con-
trol lever assembly by removing the capscrews
which secure it to the deck plate.
Also, remove the batteries, battery cables,
and battery boxes from the top of the deck
plate.
Back out the set screws in the rear of the
orake actuator housings as shown, and push
the brake acuator levers back into the actua-
tor housings. Also disconnect the hydraulic
brake line at the connection just below the
floor boards, in front of the deck plate, and
disconnect the Scraper light wire.
125
TOURNAPULL
DISASSEMBLING
DECK
PLATE
TOURNAPULL REPAIR
Remove the capscrews which secure the
deck plate to the main case. Don't overlook
the three capscrews located below the seat
bracket, which can be reached through the
three holes shown in the illustration.
Attach a hoist chain to the deck plate as
shown and raise the deck plate off the case,
raising it straight up until it clears the tops
of the clutch throw yokes.
REMOVING FLOOR BOARDS
To remove the floor boards, first remove
the capscrews which secure the floor boards
in position. Remove the pedal pads from the
flywheel clutch and hydraulic brake pedals
and then raise the floor boards off over the
control levers, pedals, etc.
REMOVING STEERING CLUTCH LEVERS
AND BRAKE LEVERS
To remove the steering clutch and brake
control levers, first remove the floor boards.
Then remove the nut from the end of the
control lever shaft and remove the control
levers off the end of the shaft.
REMOVING DRAWBAR
To remove the drawbar from the Tourna-
pull, remove the wires from the heads of the
clamp block capscrews and then remove the
capscrews and clamp blocks, thereby freeing
the drawbar from the bottom of the Tourna-
pull case.
126
DISASSEMBLING
TOURNAPULL
REPAIR SECTION
REMOVING STEERING CLUTCH AND
SPIRAL BEVEL GEAR ASSEMBLY
To remove the steering clutch and spiral
bevel gear assembly, it is first necessary to
remove the deck plate as previously outlined.
Then proceed as follows:
Remove the capscrews which secure the
steering clutch driven cone to the clutch car-
rier plate. This can best be done by removing
the pipe plug from the side of the main case
and then inserting a wrench through the hole
and through a corresponding hole in the par-
tition wall to reach the capscrews, as illus-
trated. Rotate the steering clutch and spiral
bevel gear assembly to reach all the cap-
screws.
Disconnect and remove the brake adjust-
ing block and linkage at the rear end of each
brake band. Also, disconnect and remove the
brake actuator lever, linkage, etc., from the
front end of each band.
Back off the spiral bevel gear carrier right
bearing adjusting nut by first loosening the
clamp screw and then backing off the adjust-
ing nut, using the special spanner wrench. A
wrench placed on one of the spiral bevel gear
carrier capscrews can be used to hold the
assembly from turning. Move the gear carrier
assembly to the right as far as possible by
loosening the clamp bolt on the left adjusting
nut and turning the adjusting nut clockwise.
Back off the adjustment on both steering
clutches. To do this, first loosen the lock nuts
and lock screws from the clutch adjusting
spiders.
Then turn the adjusting spiders counter-
clockwise on the threaded hubs of the clutch
drive plates, thereby backing off the adjust-
ments. Slide clutches toward center on gear
carrier.
127
TOURNAPUL
DISASSEMBLING
REPAIR SECTION
fERING CLUTCH AND
SPIRAL BEVEL GEAR
ASSEMBLY
EERING CLUTCH AND
"IRAL BEVEL GEAR
ASSEMBLY
Remove five of the capscrews which se-
cure the spiral bevel gear to the gear carrier,
in consecutive order. Then rotate the gear
carrier so that the holes from which the five
capscrews were removed are on bottom. (This
is necessary to provide clearance when raising
the assembly out of the case.)
Remove the gear carrier bearing clamp
blocks from the case. (IMPORTANTDo
not lose or mix bearing clamp blocks or shims,
because they are machined with the case and
must be re-installed in the same position from
which they were removed.)
Attach a chain hoist to the steering clutch
and spiral bevel gear assembly with which to
raise it out of the case. Care should be used
to make sure the assembly is balanced. A
lifting arrangement of the type shown, con-
nected to the ends of both brake bands, is very-
well suited for this use. If other means of
hoisting is used, the steering clutch driven
cones should be wired in some manner to pre-
vent the clutches from sliding off the carrier
shaft while hoisted in the air. Wire the clutch
throw yokes to the clutch cones.
Raise the assembly slowly with the chain
hoist, working the clutch throw yokes to free
them from the bottom of the case. CAUTION
Extreme care should be used when hoist-
ing to prevent the teeth of the spiral bevel
gear and pinion from binding and chipping.
The transmission should be in neutral to per-
mit the pinion to turn, and the gear and pinion
should roll and slide out of mesh. Move the
right side to the rear and left side forward
while hoisting.
After the spiral bevel gear is out of mesh
with the pinion, continue to hoist the assembly
out of the case.
128
TOURNAPULL REPAIR
TOURNAPULL
DISASSEMBLING STEERING CLUTCH
AND SPIRAL BEVEL GEAR ASSEMBLY
To disassemble the steering clutch and
spiral bevel gear carrier assembly, first slide
the clutch throw yokes off the throw-out col-
lars, being careful not to lose the small square
pivot bushings from the throw-out collars as
the yokes are removed.
Remove the brake bands by sliding them
off the clutch cones as illustrated.
The steering clutch assemblies can now be
slipped off the ends of the gear carrier shaft.
Remove the bearings from the gear car-
rier, being careful not to lose the keys located
under the bearings. Also remove the keys. It
may be necessary to use a puller in removing
the bearings from the gear carriers in some
machines. After removing the bearings and
keys, the adjusting nuts can be removed by
loosening the lock screws and turning them
off over the threads on the shaft.
To remove the spiral bevel gear from the
gear carrier, remove the capscrews and lock-
washers which secure the gear to the gear
Carrier.
CLUTCH
THRO'
ADJUSTING
129
TOURNAPULL REPAIR
CLUTCH THtOW YOKE |
BEARING
FEMALE CONE
CAPSCREW
MALE COME WITH LINING
MALE COM W,THUNING
DRIVE PLATE
">" SPIDE, COUA,
DISASSEMBLING STEERING CLUTCH
To disassemble either steering clutch, first
back out the lock screw as illustrated. The
lock nut must be loosened before the lock
screw can be backed off.
Turn the clutch spider assembly off the
threaded hub of the clutch drive plate.
Then lift the spider assembly off the drive
plate.
The external splined driving cone can now
be lifted out of the steering clutch driven cone.
130
REPAIR SECTION
The driven cone can be lifted off the in-
ternal splined driving cone as illustrated.
To remove the internal splined driving
cone from the clutch drive plate, remove the
capscrews and lockwashers that secure the
cone to the drive plate.
Remove the throw-out collar from the
throw-out bearing by removing the capscrews
which hold the two halves of the throw-out
collar together.
Disassemble the spider assembly by re-
moving the cotters and castellated nuts from
the pins connecting the fingers, links, adjust-
ing spider, and sliding spider.
The throw-out bearing can be removed
from the sliding spider by bending back or
cutting the peened edge of the spider and
then pulling the bearing off the spider.
131
SLIDING
SPIDER^.
TOURNAPULL
DISASSEMBLING
REPAIR SECTION
REMOVING AND DISASSEMBLING
FINAL DRIVE PINION ASSEMBLY
To remove a final drive pinion assembly,
it is first necessary to remove the deck plate
and the steering clutch and spiral bevel gear
assembly, as per previous instructions. Then
proceed as follows:
Remove the pinion bearing .inspection cap
from the side of the case.
Then bend back the bent edges of the
lock plate and remove the capscrews which
secure the lock plate and adjusting plate to
the end of the pinion. Remove the lock plate
and adjusting plate from the pinion.
Rotate the pinion to the point where the
flat surface of the clutch carrier plate is on
bottom, to provide necessary clearance when
removing. Then drive against end of pinion
only enough to break bearing cone loose from
pinion. Then pull bearing cone off end of
pinion, and remove pinion assembly through
inner side of case, tilting and raising it out of
mesh with herringbone teeth of final drive
gear while moving it inward.
To disassemble the pinion assembly, bend
back peened edge of lock nut and then turn
lock nut off end of pinion, using special
wrench supplied with Tournapull as shown.
The clutch carrier can then be driven off the
end of the pinion.
To remove the bearing cone from the
clutch carrier, set the carrier face-down on
blocks and then drive the bearing off the
carrier hub, as shown, making use of the two
holes provided for that purpose.
132
DISASSEMBLING
TOURNAPULL
TOURNAPULL REPAIR
REMOVING AXLES AND FINAL DRIVE
GEARS
To remove the Tournapull axles and
final drive gears, it is first necessary to re-
move the wheels, deck plate, steering clutch
and spiral bevel gear assembly, and final
drive pinion. If only the axles are to be re-
moved, the final drive can be supported by
a rope or metal band and the final drive
pinion and the steering clutch and spiral
bevel gear assembly left in position.
Drain oil from main case. Then remove
capscrews which secure oil seal retainer plate
to the case by reaching capscrews through
hole in axle flange. Rotate axle to reach all
the capscrews. Also remove the four stay-bolts
from the case.
Remove axle inner bearing inspection
plate from bottom of main case as shown.
Then reach through inspection plate open-
ing and remove lock plate, adjusting plate and
shims from inner end of axle by bending back
corners of lock plate and then removing the
four capscrews which project through lock
plate and adjusting plate and into end of
axle.
With the final drive gear supported in the
case, preferably by attaching a hoist chain to
either a metal band or heavy rope extended
around the gear, force the axle out of the case,
using a jack as shown. For this operation, the
opposite inner axle bearing inspection plate
has been removed and a block placed against
the end of opposite axle to provide something
solid to jack against. The axle inner bearing
can be removed through the inspection plate
opening.
The final drive gear can now be hoisted
out of the case, and the axle outer bearing
cone, oil seal, and oil seal boss, pulled off the
axle, if desired.
rATE
BLOCK
133
TOURNAPUL
DISASSEMBLING
TOURNAPULL REPAIR
REMOVING HOOD
To remove the hood from the Tburnapull,
first remove the pre-cleaners from the air
cleaner stacks. Then remove the bolts that
secure the hood to the radiator and dash panel
and lift off the hood.
REMOVING BUMPER
To remove the bumper, merely remove the
eight bolts that secure the bumper to the
frame.
BUMPER
REMOVING RADIATOR
To remove the radiator, first remove the
hood. Also disconnect both the upper and
lower hose connections.
Disconnect the head light wires and re-
move the radiator brace and headlight.
Attach a hoist chain to the radiator and
then remove the two bolts that hold the radia-
tor in place by inserting a wrench through the
holes in the bottom of the frame. The radia-
tor can now be removed. (Do not misplace
the fibre and metal shims or spacers on which
the radiator sets as they will be needed when
re-installing.)
134
REPAIR SECTION
TOURNAPULL
REMOVING DASH PANEL
To remove the dash panel, first remove
the hood. Then remove the two bolts that
secure each side of the dash panel to the
frame. Unless a dash panel has been dam-
aged in some manner and needs to be replaced,
it is seldom removed excepting when the en-
gine is to be removed, and in this case the
wires and controls are left connected and the
dash panel removed with the engine.
REMOVING ENGINE
To remove the engine, first remove the
hood and radiator, and disconnect the fuel
line from the fuel tank. Then remove the cap-
screws which secure the front engine hanger
to the frame as shown.
Also remove the capscrews from the rear
engine support lugs. (IMPORTANT Do
not misplace shims at either the front engine
hanger or at the rear support lugs because the
same shims must be re-installed at each point,
unless a different engine is installed.)
If the transmission is not to be removed,
remove the capscrews which secure the trans-
mission clutch housing to the engine flywheel
housing. (If the engine and transmission are
both to be removed, the two can be removed
together and these capscrews then removed,
if desired.)
Use a special lifting arrangement of the
general type shown in lifting the engine. Move
engine forward a short distance before hoist-
ing to permit flywheel clutch to move clear
of the transmission clutch shaft.
REAR ENGINE
HIMS SUPPORT
135
REPAIR SECTION
TOURNAPULL
REMOVING TRANSMISSION
To remove the Tournapull transmission,
first remove the deck plate, floor boards, hood
and radiator. The engine can be removed
either with the transmission, removed sep-
arately before removal of the transmission,
or moved several inches ahead on the frame
to permit removal of the transmission without
actually removing the engine.
Remove the nuts from the four large stud
bolts at either side of the spiral bevel pinion.
Then remove the capscrews from the oil
seal retainer plate and slide the retainer plate
off the end of the transmission countershaft.
(Leave retainer plate loose on shaft, if Power
Control Unit has not been removed. 1
With the transmission supported with a
chain hoist and the engine either removed,
slid ahead on the frame, or loosened from the
frame and supported with a chain hoist to be
removed with the transmission as one unit,
force the transmission ahead far enough to
free the bearing adaptor from the main case,
using a jack as shown. (Do not drive with
sledge against pinion lock screw.) This
operation can be done with steering clutch
and spiral bevel gear assembly in position by
tilting jack or jacking against carrier shaft.
When bearing adaptor and pinion are free
of the main case, lift out the transmission
with a hoist.
REMOVING FLYWHEEL CLUTCH PEDAL
To remove the flywheel clutch pedal from
the transmission, loosen the clamp bolt on
the pedal adjusting arm and then slide the
adjusting arm and pedal off the pedal shaft.
136
DISASSEMBLING
TOURNAPULL
TOURNAPULL REPAIR
HYDRAULIC BRAKE MASTER
CYLINDER
To remove the hydraulic brake master
cylinder from the side of the transmission
case, remove the capscrews which secure the
master cylinder mounting brackets to the case.
The mounting brackets and pedal can then
be removed from the master cylinder.
To disassemble the master cylinder, first remove large clamp ring
fastening boot to cylinder. Remove push rod and boot assembly. Remove
internal parts in this order; first lock ring, then washer. Use care in
removing lock ring as this piece is made of spring steel. The piston,
primary cup, return spring, and check valve may then be removed.
PUSHROD LOCK \ PISTON
RING wASHER PRIMARY
CUP CHECK
VALVE
CROSS-SECTION OF MASTER CYLINDER
After dismantling the cylinder, the following items should be in-
spected:
(a) Port hole must be open. If closed, run a wire through hole.
(b) Primary cup must be smooth around outer edge. If grooved by
passing the port hole the sharp edges of the cylinder wall may be re-
moved by the' use of a burring tool. Discard used cup.
(c) Cylinder bore must be smooth and not pitted or scratched.
(d) If mineral oil is present in the system the rubber parts will be
enlarged and very soft. They cannot be used and it is necessary to re-
place the primary cup, secondary cup, check valve and valve seat.
Cylinder and parts must be washed in clean alcohol and dipped in
hydraulic brake fluid before assembling. Do not wash cylinder or parts
in gasoline, kerosene or oil.
137
TOURNAPULL REPAIR
GEAR SHIFT
LEVER HOUSING
GEAR SHIFT
LEVER
DISASSEMBLING TRANSMISSION
Before attempting to disassemble the
transmission, its exterior should be carsfully
cleaned. It is important that no dirt or foreign
matter be allowed to enter the case. Dirt is
particularly detrimental to bearings, sleeves,
and bushings.
To remove the spiral bevel pinion from
the rear of the mainshaft, first bend back or
cut the peened edge of the head of the pinion
lock screw with a punch or chisel. Then turn
the screw out the end of the shaft and pull
the spiral bevel pinion off the shaft.
To remove the gear shift lever housing
assembly, first shift the transmission into first
speed position. (This must be the first step.)
Then remove the four capscrews by which the
gear shift lever assembly is attached and lift
the assembly from the case.
Disassemble gear shift lever housing as-
sembly by first removing from upper end of
shift lever the hand grip, finger latch rivets
and finger latch. Remove small screw from
shift lever dust cover (bell) directly above
pivot ball and slide cover up and off lever.
Unscrew stop bolt from side of housing. Then
remove lever tension spring, using screw driver
or similar tool as illustrated. The lever and
tension spring washer can now be removed
through bottom of housing.
Dismantle remainder of shift lever as-
sembly by removing bolt from latch as shown.
The latch rod can be removed from bottom
of lever and latch and spring removed by un-
screwing latch.
Remove shifting bar housing by removing
capscrews which secure it to the case and
then lifting housing from the case. In lifting
housing off case, guide edge of reverse shifting
yoke into and up through the yoke slot in
first speed sliding gear. Do not spring yokes
out of alignment by forcing housing off trans-
mission. If transmission was shifted into 1st
speed in Step 2, little difficulty should be ex-
perienced.
138
DISASSEMBLING
TOURNAPULL
REPAIR SECTION
To dismantle shifting bar housing, first
shift it into neutral (slots in yokes line up).
Remove tension spring cover by removing
two capscrews. Springs located under spring
cover can be removed from top side andVz"
steel balls (assembled under springs next to
yoke bars) from bottom side of housing.
Remove yoke bars from top down, as il-
lustrated. To do this, remove retaining screw
from shifting yoke and drive yoke bar out
through thimble end of housing. Thimbles
will not be damaged when carried out of hous-
ing by bars. With springs removed there is
no tension on the bars and it may be necessary
to adjust them to neutral position before up-
per bar will move. Avoid loss of small inter-
lock pin and balls, for transmission may be
shifted into two speeds at once if re-assembled
without them, causing serious damage.
The accompanying exploded view of shift-
ing bar housing assembly shows the parts in
their correct relationship.
TENSION
SPRING
Before removing the gears and shafts from
the case, first loosen the countershaft rear
bearing nut with a punch. To prevent the
shaft from turning as this is done, shift the
transmission into two speeds by engaging
both the high speed sliding clutch and the first
speed sliding gear. The shafts will then be
locked.
Remove the mainshaft rear bearing cover.
This is done by removing the four capscrews
by which it is attached.
139
TOURNAPULL
DISASSEMBLING
RBPA
SECTION
SLEEVE
With the capscrews and nuts which hold
the adaptor to the case removed, the adaptor
can be removed by use of a puller, as illus-
trated. The tapered roller bearings can then
be removed from the adaptor. In event there
are any shims located between the bearing
cones, save them for use at the same point
when re-assembling.
Pull the complete mainshaft assembly to
the rear until the pilot bearing clears its bore
in the clutch shaft and drive gear. The as-
sembly is then tilted and withdrawn through
the top of the case in the manner shown. The
first speed sliding gear is left inside the case
until after the shaft has been removed.
Remove the pilot bearing from end of
mainshaft by pulling sharply against it with
the high speed sliding clutch, and then slide
the sliding clutch off end of shaft. Then re-
move the key by which the mainshaft gears
are retained on the shaft, as illustrated.
Remove mainshaft washer by turning it in
its groove until the lugs on its inside diameter
line up with the grooves in the shaft. The
lugs on the outer diameter will pass through
the internal teeth of the gear.
The upper bushed gear can now be lifted
off the shaft. The sleeve on which it operates
can be removed by pulling sharply against it
with the lower gear if necessary. If it is bound,
bump pilot end of shaft lightly against floor,
causing weight of large bushed gear to start
the sleeve. The small key under the sleeve
can now be removed. The large bushed gear
can then be lifted off the shaft.
140
TOURNAPULL REPAIR
DISASSEMBLING
TOURNAPULL
The accompanying exploded view of the
mainshaft assembly shows the parts in their '5 & * 'i
correct relative positions.
EXPLODED VIEW OF
MAINSHAFT ASSEMBLY
The flywheel clutch release mechanism
can be removed by first removing the grease
pipe assembly as shown, and detaching the
two small springs which control the endwise
movement of the clutch release bearing and
bearing carrier. The carrier and bearing can
then be withdrawn from the extended bear-
ing cover as a single unit and the bearing then
removed from the carrier.
Remove lock wires assembled into screws
in the clutch release yoke and turn screws
partially out of yoke. Then drive out pedal
shafts as illustrated. The long pedal shaft
cannot be removed until the Woodruff key,
which is assembled to the inside end, is re-
moved. Always make sure shafts are free be-
fore attempting to drive them out of yoke to
avoid bending yoke fingers. Next remove ex-
tended bearing cover by removing the four
capscrews and withdrawing over end of shaft.
The clutch shaft and drive gear with bear-
ing and nut still attached is withdrawn in the
manner illustrated. The bearing can then be
removed from the clutch shaft.
To remove the reverse gear shaft, first re-
move the small shaft lock, which is attached
to the rear of the case by a capscrew. Then
remove the reverse gear shaft, using a special
puller. The puller illustrated consists of a
large socket and a capscrew having threads
the same size as those tapped into the idler
shaft.
141
TOURNAPULL REPAIR
TOURNAPULL
SNAP
RING
After the idler shaft has been removec
the two sections of the reverse idler gearii
can be lifted from the case as a single un
The two roller bearings and spacer can easily
be withdrawn from the bore of the idler gear
proper.
The rear bearing nut, which was previous-
ly loosened, can now be turned off the counter-
shaft. Then pull the rear bearing off the
countershaft, using a puller as illustrated.
With the rear bearing removed, the coun-
tershaft assembly can be tilted and removed
through the top of the case
The first step in dismantling the counter-
shaft is removal of the bearing from front end
of shaft and then removal of the gear retain-
ing snap ring. The gears can then be removed
from the countershaft one at a time and the
Woodruff keys removed from the shaft.
Unless absolutely necessary, the clutch
housing should not be removed from the trans-
mission case. To remove the clutch housing,
remove nuts and lockwashers from studs as-
sembled into case. Also drive out the two
dowel pins from inside the case. Punch mark
the clutch housing and transmission case at
three or four points before removing to assure
proper alignment when re-installing.
142
DISASSEMBLING
TOURNAPULL
REPA
SECTION
FLYWHEEL CLUTCH
To remove the flywheel clutch, first re-
move the engine from the transmission as
previously outlined. (Removal of the clutch
release yoke, bearing carrier, bearing, and
pedal are covered with disassembly of trans-
mission.) To remove the clutch assembly
from the flywheel, remove the capscrews
which secure the cover plate assembly to the
flywheel. The assembly can now be lifted out
of the flywheel.
Remove the lined
recess in the flywheel.
driven disc from the
The clutch pilot bearing can now be re-
moved. This bearing is pressed or driven into
its seat in the flywheel and it is therefore
usually necessary to pull the bearing from the
flywheel to effect its removal.
Remove the pressure plate from the as-
sembly by removing the pins which retain the
retractor springs in place. Then place the as-
sembly on an arbor or drill press with the as-
sembly resting on the clutqh sleeve. Place
blocks on the flywheel ring as illustrated so
that they rest over the driving lug slots. Com-
press the assembly and lock the press in posi-
tion. Then remove the snap ring as shown.
Remove the fulcrum rings, levers, and
balls. Then slowly release the assembly,
which will make the spring, sleeve, and re-
maining parts removable.
143
FULCRUM
REPAIR SECTION
INSPECTION OF PARTS FOR REPLACEMENT OR REPAIR
Before re-assembling the Tournapull, the following inspection and
care of parts should be made:
1. Carefully examine oil seals before re-installing. Replace any oil
seals which do not appear to be in good condition.
2. Make new oil seals pliable by soaking in light weight oil and by
running a round object, such as a hammer handle, around the
inner circumference of the seal, thus working the leather.
3. Replace all working parts that are excessively worn.
4. Examine bearings before re-installing. Use none that may have
become Brinelled, pitted, or excessively worn.
5. Replace bearing cups when replacing bearing cones and vice-versa.
6. Examine clutch and brake facings before re-installing driving
cones or brake bands. If driving cones have been newly relined
with metallic facings, the facings should be machined or ground
to a 157 taper to take off any high spots.
7. Flywheel clutch pressure plates dished in excess of .015" or badly
scored should be replaced with new plates.
8. Check the flywheel clutch fulcrum rings for flatness, or excessive
wear. Select two good fulcrum rings before re-installing.
9. If "used" flywheel clutch pressure levers are to be used, be sure
that they are straight and not excessively worn.
10. Check flywheel clutch retractor springs for size. If shorter than
1%" replace with new springs.
11. During inspection and repair of parts use extreme care to keep
all bearings, gears, and all other working parts free of dirt, grit, or
other foreign matter.
TOURNAPUIL REPAIR
ASSEMBLING TOURNAPULL
With the exception of a few specific points, the general instructions
for assembling the Tournapull are simply the reverse of the instructions
for disassembling, covered on Pages 124 to 143 of this section. The
specific points to be given careful attention during the assembling process
are covered on this and the succeeding pages.
The order in which the various units are covered is the reverse of
the order in which they are covered in the Disassembly Instructions.
ASSEMBLING FLYWHEEL CLUTCH
The instructions which follow give full information needed for as-
sembling the flywheel clutch cover plate assembly. The clutch release
yoke, bearing carrier, bearing and pedal are assembled with the trans-
mission and will therefore be found in the Transmission Assembly in-
structions.
-CLUTCH HOUSING
SHIM AND STUD
STUD
-PRESSURE LEVER
- LEVER BALL
BEARING AND CARRIER'
PRESSURE SPRING
ADJUSTING PLATE
SNAP RING
DRIVEN DISC
PRESSURE PLATE
FULCRUM RING
FLYWHEEL RING
ASSEMBLING COVER PLATE ASSEMBLY
Place sleeve on table of drill or arbor press
as illustrated. If face of sleeve is scored, use
a new sleeve.
With large coil of the pressure spring
abutting the small boss in the adjusting plate,
place the flywheel ring, adjusting plate, and
spring above the sleeve. The sleeve must be
a "free-fit" in adjusting plate.
145
TOURNAPULL
ASSEMBLING
TOURNAPULL REPAIR
Arrange two blocks and a bar on the as-
sembly as illustrated. Compress the assembly
carefully and lock the press.
Check the fulcrum rings for flatness or
excessive wear. Select two good fulcrum rings
and place one of them, cupped side up, over
the sleeve. .
Arrange the 20 levers (if used levers, be
sure they are straight and not excessively
worn) on the fulcrum ring so that the end of
the levers nest just inside the retaining rim
of the flywheel ring.
Place one ball in each of the holes in the
small end of the levers.
Assemble the remaining fulcrum ring
firmly and carefully over the sleeve. Be sure
no ball bearings become displaced, nor that
the levers overlap each other.
146
REPAIR SECTION
TOURNAPULL
Place a new snap ring on the sleeve, slip-
ping it down into its groove around the upper
end of the sleeve.
By use of a hammer and punch, chisel, or
similar tool, tap the snap ring back firmly
into its seat. The ends of the snap ring should
not be in line with the keyways in the sleeve.
Best results are obtained if this operation is
started opposite the snap ring ends and from
this point work toward the ends.
Test each of the 20 levers to see that they
are locked in place by a ball bearing. Then
remove blocks and assemble pressure plate
in the four driving slots of the flywheel ring.
(Pressure plates dished in excess of .015" or
badly scored should be replaced with new
plates.) Pressure plate must be free in slots
in flywheel ring. Approximately .004" to .006"
looseness must be provided. If old plate is
used, assemble with "0" marked driving lug
in "0" marked driving slot.
Turn assembly over and compress large
coil spring. Install small retractor springs.
The coils should be open, not closed. Use
new springs if old ones are shorter than !3/a".
Install the special washer over the top of
each spring and insert the small lock pin to
hold the spring in place.
147
TOURNAPULL
REPAIR SECTION
COVER PLAT
ASSEMBL'
SPARE
CLUTCH
SHAFT
INSTALLING FLYWHEEL CLUTCH
(The clutch release yoke, bearing car-
rier, bearing, and pedal are assembled with
the transmission and will therefore be found
in the Transmission Assembly instructions.)
To install the clutch pilot bearing, lined
driven plate and cover plate assembly on the
engine flywheel, first hand-pack the pilot bear-
ing with recommended lubricant. (See lubri-
cation instructions in Operation Section.)
Install pilot bearing in flywheel bore, mak-
ing sure covered side faces outward. It may
be necessary to drive bearing into its seat.
Install lined driven disc in position in
recess in flywheel, with pointed ends of splines
in hub of driven plate facing outward. For
best results, replace old, worn lined driven
plates with new ones rather than trying to
reface, since refaced plates are often bent and
otherwise impaired so that difficult clutch
action results.
Install the cover plate assembly in posi-
tion on the flywheel. If a new lined driven
plate has been installed (or new facing as-
sembled to the old driven plate) the adjust-
ing straps should first be removed from the
cover plate assembly and the required num-
ber of shims (approx. 7) placed under each
adjusting strap. Install an equal number of
shims under each strap.
Secure the cover plate assembly to the fly-
wheel by installing the capscrews and lock-
washers. Before drawing the cover plate as-
sembly down tight, it is important that the
lined driven disc be centered with the pilot
bearing to cause them to line up with th?
clutch shaft in the front of the transmission
when installing the transmission on the en-
gine. The use of a spare splined clutch shaft
or a universal clutch hub aligning tool is
recommended for this "centering" operation,
as illustrated.
148
TOURNAPULL REPAIR
ASSEMBLING TRANSMISSION
Inasmuch as the general instructions for assembling the transmission
are merely a reversal of those for disassembly, the transmission disas-
sembly instructions and illustrations on Pages 138 to 142 of the Repair
Section can be referred to as a guide in re-assembling the transmission.
The parts of the transmission should be assembled in the following
order:
1. If the clutch housing has been removed from the transmission case,
re-install it on the case, making use of the dowel pins by which the hous-
ing is located. Extreme care should be taken to maintain the alignment
between the machined face of the housing and the mainshaft bores of
the case; also the concentricity of the mainshaft bores and the flange
pilot. Tighten the nuts gradually on the studs when installing. The
clutch housing should be marked for alignment with punch marks before
removing and then re-installed in the same position.
SCREW
LEVER BELL
ROD SPRING
LEVER WASHER
LEVER SPRING
CAPSCREW
SPRING COVER
SPRING
BALL
3RD SPEED GEAR
3RD GEAR WASHER
3RD AND 4TH SHIFTING YOKE
SLIDING CLUTCH
BEARING
BEARING AND SNAP RING
BEARING NUT
BEARING COVER
CLUTCH SHAFT
GEAR SHIFT LEVER BALL
:AR SHIFT LEVER
LATCH SPOON
RIVET
REVERSE STOP LATCH
GEAR SHIFT LEVER HOUSING
LOCKING SCREW
GEAR BUSHING
3RD SPEED GEAR SLEEVE
2ND SPEED GEAR
GEAR BUSHING
2ND GEAR WASHER
1ST AND 2ND SHIFTING YOKE
1ST SPEED GEAR
GASKET
BEARING CUP
BEARING CONE
SPLINED MAINSHAFT
SHIM
BEARING ADAPTOR
OIL SEAL
NUT
CAPSCREW
PLUG
SNAP RING
BEARING
SNAP RING
DRIVE GEAR
GEAR SPACER
3RD SPEED GEAR
2ND SPEED GEAR
ADJUSTING SHIMS
HOUSING COVER
SEAL RETAINER
OIL SEAL
BEARING NUT
REPA
SECTION
2. Install the gears, etc., on the large end of the countershaft as fol-
lows: small gear, medium gear, spacer, large gear, snap ring, and bearing,
in the order listed. Don't overlook the Woodruff key in the hub of each
gear. The gears should be installed on the shaft with the teeth on. the
gears pointing in the direction shown in the illustration.
BEARING NUT
BEARING AND SNAP RING
COUNTERSHAFT
SEAL RETAINER
OIL SEAL
a. if- j 3.
L^^""~^S^^'
SNAP RING
2ND SPEED GEAR
3RD SPEED GEAR
GEAK SPACER
COUNTERSHAFT DRIVE GEAR
SNAP RING
3. Lower the countershaft assembly into position in the case, insert-
ing the splined end of the shaft out through the lower bearing bore in
the rear of the case.
4. Press (or drive) the rear bearing (with snap ring) into position
on the countershaft and then install the rear bearing nut on the shaft
The nut can be turned up tight against the bearing after the mainshaft
is installed in the case.
5. Install the plug and snap ring at front end of countershaft if re-
moved.
6. Assemble the reverse idler assembly by installing sliding gear on
extended hub of idler gear. Also install the two roller bearings in the hub
of the idler gear, placing the spacer between the two.
REVERSE IDLER GEAR
BEARING
BEARING SPACER
SHAFT LOCK
BEARING
REVERSE GEAR AND BUSHING
IDLER SHAFT
7. Lower the reverse idler assembly into the case, with sliding gear to
the rear, and insert the reverse idler shaft through its hole in the rear of
the case and through the bearings in the hub of the idler gear. Lock the
reverse idler shaft in position by installing the small lock plate and cap-
screw at the rear end of the shaft.
8. Install the bearing and bearing nut on the clutch shaft and drive
gear and install it in position in the case, positioning the bearing in the
upper bore at the front of the case. Then slide the extended bearing
cover and gasket back over the shaft and install the capscrews and lock-
washers which secure it to the case.
150
9. The flywheel clutch release mechanism can be installed at the
front of the case either now or later. This group consists of release bear-
ing, bearing carrier, grease tube, springs, release yoke, and yoke shafts.
The bearing carrier should be installed over the extended bearing cover
with the bearing facing front. Do not forget Woodruff key on left yoke
shaft. Wire heads of yoke set screws after tightening.
10. Install the rear bearings and bearing adaptor on the rear end of
the mainshaft before installing the shaft. This can best be done in an
arbor press, if available. Install between the bearing cones any shims
that were removed at this point during disassembly. Also install the oil
seal in the rear bearing cover and install the rear bearing cover on the
adaptor, inserting between the two enough shims to correctly adjust
the bearings. Bearings are correctly adjusted when the mainshaft will
turn in the adaptor, without end play and without heavy drag). The
bearing cover and shims should be installed with the oil return holes on
bottom. The spiral bevel pinion can be installed on the end of the shaft
either now or later, as desired. If installed now, the pinion retainer
screw in the end of the shaft should be left only partially tightened, and
the final tightening done after the transmission is installed in the Tourna-
pull.
SLIDING CLUTCH
BEARING
3RD SPEED GEAR
GEAR BUSHING
EAR AND BUSHING
CAPSCREW-
HOUSING COVER
OIL SEAL
2ND GEAR WASHER MAINSHAFT
1ST SPEED GEAR'
BEARING ADAPTOR
SHIMS
11. Place the gasket on the studs at the rear of the case and then
insert the mainshaft through the upper bore in the rear of the case. As
the front of the shaft enters the case, assemble the gears, etc., on the shaft
in the following order: 1st speed sliding gear, round washer, 2nd speed
gear, small Woodruff key, bushing, 3rd speed gear, slotted washer, large
key, sliding clutch, and pilot bearing. The 1st speed gear should be in-
stalled with clutch teeth forward, 2nd speed gear with clutch teeth to the
rear, and 3rd speed gear with clutch teeth forward. Also, the recessed
end of the sliding clutch should face the rear. Extreme care should be
taken to line up keyway in 2nd gear bushing with small key in shaft
before installing bushing on shaft.
The end play of the mainshaft bushed gears on the shaft should be
checked after installation. The end play in both gears should be held to
a minimum of .006". If excessive end play is found, new washers should
be installed to help maintain the original fit. Excessive radial clearance
of the gears on the shaft can be eliminated by replacing worn bushings
with new ones. Excessive radial clearance can be established by a com-
151
parison with the total clearance of .002"-.003" provided in new transmis-
sions. When assembling new or re-bushed gears on shaft, make sure that
they move freely after being assembled in their proper places. Coat
shaft with oil before installing bushed gears on shaft.
12. Press or drive the bearing adaptor into its bore in the rear of the
case, thereby moving the mainshaft forward, into its final position. Guide
the front of the shaft and bearing into the recess at the rear of the clutch
shaft and gear.
13. Now shift the transmission into two speeds by engaging both the
high speed sliding clutch and the first speed sliding gear, thereby locking
the shafts and preventing them from turning. Now turn the rear bearing
nut up tight on the countershaft and lock the nut by peening an edge
down against the shaft.
14. Install shifting bars and shifting yokes in shifting bar housing.
The relative positions of the parts are as illustrated. Do not torget to
install the two larger steel balls between the shifting bars and also the
small interlock pin in the pin hole in the middle shifting bar. These parts
are important and must not be overlooked or else serious damage may
result by shifting into two gears at once. Locate the shifting yokes on
the shifting bars and tighten and lock the shifting yoke set screws in the
notches in the shifting bars. Install the three small steel balls and tension
springs in the three vertical holes above the shifting bars and install
tension spring cover. Also install the thimbles and Whelch plugs in
position in the shifting bar housing.
15. Install shifting bar housing and gasket in position on top of case,
positioning lower ends of shifting yokes into the yoke slots in the first
speed sliding gear, reverse speed sliding gear, and the third and fourth
speed sliding clutch.
SHIFTING BAR HOUSING
REVERSE YOKE
EXPLODED VIEW OF SHIFTING BAR HOUSING
152
REPAIR SECTION
16. Assemble the gear shift lever assembly by first installing the
reverse latch, spring, and rod on the side of the gear shift lever. Then
insert the shift lever into the housing from the lower side and install the
washer and spring in the housing, also from bottom side. Then install
the bell (dust cover), spoon, rod end, and gear shift ball on upper end
of gear shift lever. Also install small pivot pin in upper end of housing.
17. Install gear shift lever assembly and gasket on top of shifting bar
housing. Locate lower end of gear shift lever in slots in top of shifting
yokes.
18. Turn reverse latch set screw into tapped hole in side of gear
shift lever housing, only far enough to prevent shift from moving into
reverse position without operating the reverse latch.
If the spiral bevel pinion has not yet been installed on the rear of the
mainshaft, this can now be done, but the pinion retainer screw should not
be given its final tightening until after the transmission is installed in the
Tournapull.
INSTALLING TRANSMISSION
To install the transmission in the Tournapull, reverse the procedure
for its removal.
1. If the steering clutch and spiral bevel gear assembly is in place in
the case, the^spiral bevel gear should be backed off as far to the right as
possible. Also, with the assembly in place, it is necessary that the spiral
bevel pinion be installed on the transmission mainshaft before the trans-
mission is installed. Because it is difficult to sufficiently tighten the pinion
retainer screw in the end of the mainshaft without the transmission being
held solidly in position in the Tournapull, the retainer screw should not
be given its final tightening until after the transmission has been installed.
For convenience, the flywheel clutch pedal and the hydraulic brake
master cylinder and pedal should be installed in place on the transmis-
sion before the transmission is installed in the Tournapull.
2. Place the transmission to main case gasket on the rear of the
transmission case and then hoist the transmission into position, using a
chain hoist, lining up the stud bolts on the rear of the transmission with
the corresponding holes in the main case. (IMPORTANT: Machines
having serial number C3T-2922 GIF and up use a .010" thick gasket;
machines below that serial number use a .032" gasket.)
3. If the Power Control Unit has not been removed from the Tourna-
pull it will be necessary to slide the oil seal retainer plate (with oil seal
and gasket) over the end of the transmission countershaft as it moves
back into the case. Also, the Power Control Unit spline shaft must be in
position, so that the countershaft will slip back into the internal splines at
the front end of the spline shaft.
4. Draw the transmission up tight against the main case, using the
hex nuts on the end of the transmission stud bolts which project into the
main case. (A copper washer and two nuts must be installed on the end
of each stud bolt.)
153
REPAIR SeCTION
5. If the oil seal retainer plate has not already been slipped over the
countershaft, install the retainer plate (with gasket and oil seal), being
careful to avoid damaging oil seal. Install and tighten the four capscrews
and lockwashers in the retainer plate.
6. The spiral bevel pinion should now be installed on the end of the
mainshaft (if not already installed).
Give pinion lock screw its final tightening by placing the trans-
mission in low gear and using a wrench with a long extension, such as a
pipe, on the head of the screw, while holding the countershaft from turn-
ing. (If no suitable wrench is available for holding the countershaft
without damaging the splines, the tightening of the retainer screw can be
left until after the engine has been installed, and then tightened against
the compression of the engine.) Tighten the retainer screw as tight as
possible. Then lock the screw by peening back the edge of the screw
head into the slot in the end of the pinion. It is usually necessary to heat
the edge of the screw head before it can be bent or peened back into the
slot in the pinion.
7. If the steering clutch and spiral bevel gear assembly is in place
and the engine is installed, adjust the gear carrier bearings and spiral
bevel gear and pinion lash, as outlined in the Tournapull adjustment
instructions. Also, as a precautionary measure,, paint the teeth of the
spiral bevel gear and pinion with red lead and rotate the gear to determine
the point of contact between the two. If the gear and pinion are in
correct alignment, the print of the teeth will be located approximately
1/3 of the way up from the small end of the teeth. If not as specified,
possibly the incorrect thickness of gasket is used between the trans-
mission bearing adaptor and the main case or an incorrect number of
shims are used at the front engine hanger.
INSTALLING ENGINE
Before installing the engine in the Tournapull, the flywheel clutch
lined driven disc and cover plate assembly should be installed on the
engine flywheel and the clutch release mechanism installed in the clutch
housing of the transmission. ('See instructions for "Installing Flywheel
Clutch" and "Assembling Transmission.") Also, the transmission must
first be installed as outlined in preceding instructions. Then proceed as
follows:
1. Raise engine into position, using a chain hoist and lifting hooks
of the type illustrated in engine removal instructions. Line flywheel
clutch at rear of engine flywheel up with clutch shaft on front of trans-
mission, rotating either shaft or flywheel, if necessary, to cause alignment
of splines on shaft and in hub of clutch driven plate. Then move engine
to the rear, until clutch shaft is inserted in clutch pilot bearing in fly-
wheel and engine flywheel housing is positioned against clutch housing.
154
2. If the same engine is being re-installed, place the same shims
under the front engine hanger and at the rear engine support lugs as
were removed. This is important in order to assure proper alignment
of spiral bevel pinion with spiral bevel gear.
If a replacement engine is being installed, it will be necessary to first
install the amount of shims under the front engine hanger that is needed
to cause the face of the flywheel housing to align perfectly with the bolt
circle of the clutch housing. This can best be determined by carefully
supporting the engine with the chain hoist while installing, so that none
of the weight of the engine is thrown on the clutch shaft or transmission.
When the engine flywheel housing is brought within approximately 1A"
of the clutch housing, check the space between the housings to see if it
is equal at both the top and bottom sides. Insert enough shims under
the front engine hanger to cause the space between the clutch and fly-
wheel housings to be equal at both the top and bottom sides of the hous-
ings. Also insert enough shims at the rear engine support lugs to fill the
space between the lugs and brackets.
3. With the engine moved back into position so that the clutch and
flywheel housings are brought together, install the capscrews and lock-
washers which secure the engine to the transmission.
4. Install the engine mounting bolts at both the front engine hanger
and the rear engine support lugs.
5. The fuel line can now be connected with the fuel pipe between
the fuel tanks, and the lube oil lines connected with the lube oil filter.
INSTALLING DASH PANEL
Unless the dash panel has become damaged through accident and
requires replacing, it is normally removed with the engine in order to
eliminate the necessity for re-connecting the controls. Thus, after re-
installing an engine, all that is required in installing the dash panel is
correctly positioning it on the frame and then re-installing the bolts and
lockwashers which secure it to the frame.
If the dash panel was separated from the engine, it will be necessary
to re-install the controls, wires, etc.
INSTALLING RADIATOR
To re-install a radiator, raise it into position at the front of the frame
with a chain hoist. Place below the radiator the same metal and fibre
shims or spacers that were removed,, or enough new metal and fibre
spacers to equal the same thickness. Install the two radiator mounting
bolts up through holes in the bottom of the frame. Then connect the
radiator with the engine by installing the upper and lower hose connec-
tions. Also re-install the radiator braces and head lights.
INSTALLING BUMPER
To install the bumper at the front of the Tournapull, merely raise it
into position and re-install the bolts which secure it to the frame.
155
INSTALLING HOOD
To install the hood, lower it into position (with pre-cleaners removed
from air cleaners) and then install the bolts which connect it with the
radiator and dash panel.
INSTALLING DRAWBAR
To install the drawbar on the Tournapull, raise it into position below
the main case and install the two clamp blocks which secure the upper
and lower extended ends of the drawbar ball structure to the hitch
bracket on the case. In installing these clamp blocks, use shims or
spacers between the clamp blocks and U shaped hitch bracket, of suffi-
cient thickness to eliminate any space between the two when the clamp
block is drawn up tight against the drawbar hitch ball. Wire the heads
of the clamp block capscrews after tightening.
INSTALLING FINAL DRIVE GEARS AND AXLES
1. To install the final drive gears and axles, first install the inner oil
seal boss on the axle, if removed. Also install the oil seal in the oil seal
retainer, with the heavy leather cupped toward the inner side of the
retainer, and slip the retainer and oil seal over the axle and onto the
oil seal ring.
2. Heat the axle outer bearing cone in hot oil and then press or drive
it on the axle, up against the shoulder.
3. Install the bearing cups in the bores in the case, if removed.
4. Lower the final drive gear into the gear and pinion compartment
of the case, using a metal band or heavy rope sling, as illustrated in the
gear removal instructions. The teeth on the gear should point forward
when looking down at the top of the gear.
5. Place a gasket in position against the outer oil seal retainer, ce-
menting it to the retainer with a gasket sealer of some kind. Then, with
the final drive gear supported in place, insert the outer end of the axle
through the axle bore in the side of the case, through the hub of the gear,
and on through the axle inner bearing bore. In installing the axle through
the gear hub, it may be necessary to rotate the axle to bring the axle
splines into alignment with the corresponding splines in the hub of the
gear.
6. Install the axle inner bearing cone on the end of the axle through
the axle inner bearing inspection hole, lining up the slot in the cone with
the keyway in the end of the axle, and install the key in the keyway.
7. Install the adjusting plate and capscrews on the end of the axle,
and tighten the capscrews a little at a time until the point is reached
where all axle end play is eliminated without placing a heavy drag on
the bearings. Then remove the adjusting plate, lock plate and capscrews
and insert enough shims between the end of the axle and the adjusting
plate to just fill the space between the end of the axle and the plate, when
compressed. Then install the adjusting plate, lock plate and capscrews,
156
REPAIR SECTION
CAPSCREW
BEARING CONE
ADJUSTING PLATE
LOCK PLATE
CAPSCREW
SHIM
turning the capscrews up tight. Again check the bearings for end play or
drag, and make any necessary corrections in the adjustment by remov-
ing or adding shims, as required. Make final check by use of a small
piece of .002" shim stock as outlined in Axle Bearing Adjustment in-
structions. Lock the cepscrews by bending the corners of the lock plate
back against the heads of the capscrews.
8. Install the capscrews which secure the oil seal retainer to the case,
using a wrench through the hole in the axle flange. Rotate the axle to
reach all the capscrew holes.
BEARING CUP
GASKET
BEARING CONE
KEY
SHIM
CAPSCRFW
ADJUSTING PLATE
GASKET
RETAINER
OIL SEAL
BOSS
AXLE
BEARING CONE
CAPSCREW
BEARING CUP
GEAR
BEARING CUP
RING CONE
PINION GEAR
PINION NUT
CLUTCH CARRIER
BEARING CUP
BEARING CONE
IM
LOCK PLATE
KEY
CAPSCREW
.AXLE BEARING
ADJUSTING PLATE
157
REPAIR SECTION
INSTALLING STAY-BOLTS
The stay-bolts must be removed from the case before removal of the
final drive gear and should be re-installed after installing a final drive
gear.
1. To install the stay-bolts, first measure accurately the distance be-
tween the outer and inner partition walls at each of the stay-bolt holes.
This is done in order that a similar check after the stay-bolts have been
installed will show whether the case has been spread in installing the
stay-lx>lts.
2. Insert the stay-bolts through the holes in the side of the case. As
the stay-bolt enters the case, slip one of the large hex nuts over the stay-
bolt. Also turn the small hex nut all the way onto the threads at the inner
end of the stay-bolts and then turn the end of the stay-bolt into the tapped
hole in the inner partition. Then turn the larger nut (that was slipped
over the stay-bolt) up onto the threads at the outer end of the bolt.
Tighten the nut up tight against the case, but not tight enough to spread
the case.
3. Install and tighten the hex nut and washer on the outer end of the
stay-bolts.
4. Measure the distance between the side of the outer and inner par-
titions at each stay-bolt as before, to make sure that the case has not been
spread or distorted. Re-adjust the nuts on the stay-bolts, if necessary, in
order to maintain the original measurement. Distortion of the case would
cause final drive axle and pinion bearing misalignment.
5. Check the axle bearing adjustment, and, if affected by the installa-
tion of the stay-bolts, correct as needed. Do likewise with the pinion
bearings if pinion has been installed.
ASSEMBLING AND INSTALLING FINAL DRIVE
PINION ASSEMBLIES
To install a final drive pinion assembly in the Tournapull, it is first
necessary to assemble the clutch carrier on the pinion as follows:
1. Install the bearing cone on the hub of the clutch carrier. This can
best be done by first heating the bearing cone in hot oil.
2. Heat the clutch carrier plate (with bearing installed) in hot oil.
Then, while hot, press or drive the splined end of the pinion tight into
the hub of the clutch carrier, and turn the tapered nut onto the threaded
end of the pinion, using the special wrench supplied with Tournapull.
Turn the nut as tight as possible, using a small sledge on the end of the
wrench.
3. When the pinion nut has been tightened as tight as possible, lock
the nut by peening an edge of the nut back into the slot in the clutch
carrier.
4. If the bearing cups have been removed, press new ones into the
bearing seats in the case.
158
ASSEMBLING TOURNAPULl
CLUTCH CARRIER
PINION NUT
BEARING CONE
BEARING CUP
PINION
BEARING CUP
BEARING CONE
ADJUSTING PLATE
LOCKPLATE
5. Lift the pinion into the center compartment of the main case, and
with the flat side of the clutch carrier at the bottom, insert the pinion
through the inner bearing cup, and on through the outer bearing cup,
keeping the pinion raised high enough to clear the herringbone teeth of
the final drive gear. Lower the pinion into mesh with the final drive gear
as it passes through the outer bearing cup.
6. Install the outer bearing cone on the end of the pinion, lining up
the slot in the bearing with the keyway in the pinion, and install the key
in the keyway.
7. Install the adjusting plate and capscrews on the end of the pinion
and turn the capscrews, a little at a time, until the bearing has been drawn
up tight enough to eliminate pinion end play without placing a heavy
drag on the bearings. Then remove the adjusting plate and install enough
shims at the end of the pinion to just fill the space between the pinion
and adjusting plate when compressed.
Then install the adjusting plate, lock plate and capscrews at the end
of the pinion and turn the capscrews up tight.
Again check the pinion bearings by seeing if all end play of the pinion
is eliminated without the bearings being drawn up so tight that the pinion
cannot be turned by hand. Remove or add shims if needed.
Make final bearing check by use of a small piece of .002" shim stock
as outlined in Final Drive Pinion Bearing Adjustment Instructions.
With the bearings correctly adjusted, lock the capscrews by bending
the edges of the lock plate back against the heads of the capscrews.
Then install the pinion bearing inspection plate and gasket at the end
of the pinion.
159
CLUTCH THROW YOKE j)
BEARING
FEMALE CONE , ,,..
CAPSCREW^ * LINK
SET SCREW
MALE CONE WITH LINING ^* / l
MALF CONF WITH IININP "^ f^ SLIDING SPIDER COLLAR
MAlE CONE WITH LINING ADJUSTING SPIDER (-UllAK
DRIVE PLATE
ASSEMBLING STEERING CLUTCHES
The procedure for assembling a steering clutch is the reverse of that
for disassembly, and the illustrations in the disassembly instructions
may therefore be used for reference when re-assembling the clutches.
To assembly a steering clutch, assemble the parts in the following
order:
1. Install the clutch throw out bearing on the sliding spider, if re-
moved. After pressing or driving the bearing onto the spider, peen the
edge of the spider back against the bearing to hold it on the spider.
2. After installing the bearing, install the throw out collar by placing
the two halves of the collar around the bearing and then installing the
capscrews and lockwashers. The throw out collar should be installed
with the off-center pivot points located away from the clutch.
3. Turn the lock screws and lock nuts a short distance into the ad-
justing spider.
4. Install the fingers and links which connect the adjusting spider
with the sliding spider.
5. Install the internal splined driving cone on the clutch drive plate,
if removed, by installing the capscrews through the cone and into the
tapped holes in the clutch drive plate.
6. Lay the drive plate and internal splined driving cone on a bench,
with the cone facing upward.
7. Lower the driven cone down on the driving cone, with the bolt
circle on the driven cone facing downward.
8. Position the external splined driving cone inside the driven cone,
lining up the splines with the corresponding splines on the internal
splined driving cone.
9. Install the clutch spider assembly in position, turning the adjust-
ing spider a short distance onto the threaded hub of the clutch drive plate.
10. The clutch throw yoke is usually installed just before installing
the steering clutch and spiral bevel gear assembly in the case.
160
REPAIR SECTION
BEARING CUP
BEARING CONE
ADJUSTING NUT
GEAR CARRIER
BEARING CONE
PINION AND GEAR
PINION LOCKING SCREW-
ADJUSTING NUT'
BEARING CUP
ASSEMBLING STEERING CLUTCH AND SPIRAL
BEVEL GEAR ASSEMBLY
To assemble the steering clutch and spiral bevel gear assembly, in-
stall the parts in the following order:
1. Install the spiral bevel gear on the gear carrier (if removed)
leaving out five consecutive capscrews and lockwashers until after the
assembly has been installed in the case. (NOTE:The spiral bevel
gears and pinions come in matched sets and it should therefore be made
certain that the gear that is installed is a mate to the pinion.)
2. Turn the bearing adjusting nuts onto the threads on the gear car-
rier. Install the Allenhead capscrews in the adjusting nuts, but do not
tighten.
3. Install the keys in the keyways in the gear carrier and then in-
stall the bearing cones over the ends of the gear carrier shaft, lining up
the slots in the bearing cones with the keys in the gear carrier.
4. Slide the bearing cups over the ends of the gear carrier and onto
the bearing cones.
5. Then slide the steering clutches onto the ends of the gear carrier,
lining up the splines on the gear carrier with the corresponding splines
in the hub of the clutch drive plate.
6. Install the brake bands over the steering clutch driven cones.
The rear end of the brake band is the end that has the small spring clip
welded to the lug at the end of the band.
7. Place the small pivot bushings on the pivot arms extending ver-
tically from the throw-out collar, and slide the ends of the clutch throw
yoke onto these bushings. Be very careful not to lose the bushings in this
operation. Extend a wire from the top of the clutch throw yoke to one
of the upper capscrew holes in the flange of the clutch driven cone, to
wire the yoke to the cone and thereby prevent the yoke from sliding off
the throwout collar when installing.
The steering clutch and spiral bevel gear assembly is now ready to
be installed in the case.
161
REPAIR SECTION
INSTALLING THE STEERING CLUTCH AND SPIRAL
BEVEL GEAR ASSEMBLY
To install the steering clutch and spiral bevel gear assembly, the final
drive pinions, gears, and axles should first be installed in the case.
Then, with the steering clutch and spiral bevel gear assembly com-
pletely assembled as outlined in the preceding instructions, proceed as
follows:
1. Install the clutch throw yoke bushings in the bottom of the case,
if removed.
2. Connect a chain hoist to the assembly with which to raise it into
position in the case. In raising the assembly, care must be exercised to
keep it balanced and to keep the steering clutches from sliding off the
ends of the clutch carrier. Therefore, a special lifting device of the type
illustrated in the disassembly instructions should be used, if available. If
not available, the hoist chain should be wrapped around the gear carrier,
up against the left side of the spiral bevel gear, and the assembly balanced
by hand when being raised into the case. Also, the two clutch driven
cones should be wired together to keep them from sliding off the gear
carrier.
3. With the gear carrier turned so that the five capscrew holes from
which the capscrews were omitted are located on the bottom, raise the
assembly into the case. While lowering it into position in the case, guide
the gear carrier bearing cups into their seats in the case, and also guide
the lower ends of the clutch throw yokes into the bushings in the bottom
of the case. If the transmission is installed in the Tournapull, extreme
care must be taken when lowering the assembly into position in the case,
to prevent the teeth on the spiral bevel gear from binding and chipping
the teeth on the spiral bevel pinion. In lowering the assembly, the left
side should be slightly forward and the right side slightly to the rear, to
permit the gear and pinion to roll into mesh without binding the teeth.
The transmission should be shifted into neutral for this operation.
4. Remove the hoist chain and also the wires connecting the driven
cones and clutch throw yokes. Then install the bearing clamp blocks
(and shims) over the gear carrier bearing cups. (NOTE:These bear-
ing clamp blocks and shims are machined with the case and are not inter-
changeable from one side to the other or from one Tournapull to another.
They are stamped "L" and "R" to
indicate whether they are to be in-
stalled on the left or right sides.)
If the dowel pins came out during
removal, they must be re-installed.
5. Rotate the spiral bevel gear one
half turn and install the remaining
five capscrews and lockwashers which
were omitted from the gear carrier.
162
6. Turn the bearing adjusting nuts as required to obtain the correct
lash between the spiral bevel gear and pinion, and also the correct ad-
justment on the gear carrier bearings. (Refer to "Spiral Bevel Gear
Carrier Bearing Adjustment and Gear and Pinion Lash Adjustment,"
for instructions.
7. Install the capscrews and lockwashers which secure the clutch
driven cones to the clutch carriers. The capscrews can be reached with
a wrench by inserting the wrench through the pipe plug hole in the side
of the case. Rotate the steering clutch to reach all the capscrews.
8. Install the brake adjusting blocks at the rear of the brake bands
and the brake actuator lever assemblies, including actuator stops, at the
front of the brake bands. The nuts on the brake adjusting blocks can
be turned into an adjustment that is approximately correct, but the
final adjusting can be done only after the deck plate is installed and
the clutch and brake levers and linkage,, connected with the clutches
and brakes. Adjust the small release spring as in step 1, page 93, before
installing deck plate.
INSTALLING DECK PLATE
1. To install the deck plate, first place the gasket in position on top
of the case. In order to hold the gasket in position on the case, stud bolts
can be inserted in some of the bolt holes. These stud bolts also help in
correctly positioning the deck plate on the case. The stud bolts can be
removed after the deck plate has been positioned on the top of the case.
Another effective method of holding the gasket on the case is to tie
the gasket to the case by means of strings extended through the capscrew
holes in the top of the case.
2. For convenience, remove the clutch throw yoke bushings and oil
seals from the deck plate before installation. Also move the brake
actuator back over-center as outlined in step 3, page 93.
3. Using a chain hoist, raise the deck plate in position over the case,
lining up the holes in the deck plate with the upper ends of the clutch
throw yokes, and lower the deck plate in position on the case.
4. Install the taper head capscrews in the deck plate first. Then install
the remaining capscrews, not overlooking the three capscrews at the rear
of the deck plate which can be reached with a wrench through the three
holes in the pyramid section of the deck plate.
5. Install the bushings and oil seals over the top of the clutch throw
yokes, into the holes in the deck plate.
5. Install the bushings and oil seals over the top of the clutch throw
yokes, into the holes in the deck plate.
6. The battery boxes, batteries, operator's seat, and Power Control
Unit control levers can now be installed on the deck plate.
7. The Scraper light wire and hydraulic brake line should now be
installed on the deck plate, if removed.
8. If the steering clutch, brake levers and floor boards are in
place, the clutch and brake linkage can now be installed, connecting the
clutch and brake levers with the clutch throw yoke and brake actuator
levers. Also, the steering clutch and steering brake adjustment instruc-
163
tions in the Operation Section. Do not overlook the correct positioning
of the set screws in the rear of the brake actuator housings, as outlined in
the steering brake adjustment instructions in the Operation Section.
9. The main case, transmission and engine should be filled to the oil
level plug with the recommended oil before starting the engine and turn-
ing over the transmission and final drive gears.
INSTALLING STEERING CLUTCH LEVERS AND BRAKE LEVERS
To install the steering clutch and brake levers, first slide the brake
levers onto the ends of the lever shafts which extend out the side of the
transmission case, and then slide the clutch levers on over the lower ends
of the brake levers. Turn the castellated nuts over the ends of the lever
shafts and install the cotter pins.
INSTALLING FLOOR BOARDS
1. To install the floor boards, the steering clutch levers, brake levers,
flywheel clutch pedal and hydraulic brake pedal should first be installed
in place. The pedal pads must be removed from the pedals to permit
the center section of the floor board to be lowered into position. Also,
both the flywheel clutch pedal and the hydraulic brake pedal should be
adjusted as follows before installing the center floor board:
(a) The flywheel clutch pedal arm and set screw should be posi-
tioned so that the clutch pedal first starts to work against the clutch
at a point 8 Vi" back of the dash panel, when measured from the dash
panel to the rear of the clutch pedal, along the top of the front battery
box.
(b) The hydraulic brake pedal should be adjusted so that it first
starts to move the piston in the master cylinder at a point 8 l/i" back
of the dash panel, when measured from the dash panel to the rear of
the pedal, along the top edge of the front battery box. The pedal
position can be adjusted by turning the hex head on the end of the
push rod which extends out in front of the boot.
2. Before lowering the floor boards in position, make sure the hy-
draulic brake line is connected at the connection in front of the deck
plate (if the deck plate is in position on the case).
3. Lower the floor boards in position and install the capscrews and
lockwashers which hold them in place.
4. The pedal pads can now be installed, and the pedals checked to
make sure that the necessary pedal lash is present. Pedal lash can be
defined as the first free movement of the pedals before the pedals start to
act against the clutch or against the piston in the brake master cylinder.
The brake pedal lash should be Vi" when measured at the slot in the
floor board, while the clutch pedal lash should be approximately 1/2"
to 3A" when measured at the same point.
If there is insufficient pedal lash at either pedal, the necessary correc-
tions must be made at the points mentioned above.
164
ASSEMBLING
TOURNAPULL
REPAIR SECTION
INSTALLING TIRES
The procedure for mounting a tire on a
wheel is simply the reverse of that for remov-
ing a tire, as outlined in the Disassembly In-
structions.
Clean the rim before installing the tire,
and paint it if rusty. Place the inner tube and
flap in the tire and inflate the inner tube only
enough to hold it in place. Then place a round
valve cap on the valve stem and lower the
tire onto the wheel rim, lining up the valve
stem with the valve stem hole in the rim. Then
install the sliding ring and locking ring on the
wheel, making sure that the locking ring is
well seated in its groove. The tire can now be
inflated to the correct pressures. In order to
properly seat the locking ring and sliding ring,
it is usually advisable to overinflate the tire
at first and then deflate it to the recommended
pressures.
NOTE: The tires should be installed so that when
placed on the machine, they will rotate in the direc-
tion indicated by the arrow on the sidewall of the tire,
when traveling forward. This is necessary ii maximum
traction is to be obtained.
INSTALLING WHEELS
A simple, easy method of installing the
wheels on the Tournapull is to roll the wheel
up against the axle, lining up one of the cap-
screw holes in the wheel with a capscrew hole
in the axle.
Then turn the axle with the starter until
the capscrew hole in the wheel is located the
same number of holes from the half-round
notch in the inner circumference of the wheel
as the corresponding hole in the axle is from
the round hole in the axle through which the
oil seal retainer capscrews are tightened. Then
install one of the wheel capscrews through the
capscrew hole in the wheel and into the cor-
responding tapped hole in the axle, first plac-
ing white lead on the capscrew threads.
Now turn the axle so that the capscrew
that was just installed is on top, thereby rais-
ing the wheel off the ground. The wheel will
now be concentric with the axle, permitting
installation of the remainder of the taper head
capscrews. Use white lead on each capscrew.
Use the special wrench supplied with the
Tournapull and a sledge as illustrated in turn-
ing the capscrews up tight.
SLIDING
RING
165
TOURNAPULL ADJUSTMENTS AND MAINTENANCE
KAIING CUP
ARINU CONE
BEARING C1IP.
BEARING CONt
KEY
SHIM
ADJUSTING PLATE ,,
ClUTCH CAM1CR
ADJUSTMENTS
Inasmuch as the steering clutch,
steering brake, flywheel clutch, and
hydraulic brake adjustments can be
taken care of by operators, these ad-
justments are covered in the Opera-
tion Section of the manual.
All other Tournapull adjustments
are covered on this and the following
pages.
FINAL DRIVE PINION BEARING ADJUSTMENT
Occasional adjusting of the final drive pinion bearings is necessary
because of bearing wear. It is important that the bearings be kept in the
correct adjustment at all times, not only because of the harm that might
result to the bearings, pinions, and final drive gears, but also because the
alignment of the steering clutch driven cone might be affected if the
bearings were loose, thereby possibly affecting the clutch action.
Check the final drive pinion bearings for looseness every 512 hours
of operation.
To check the bearings for looseness, first
raise the corresponding drive wheel off the
ground. This can easily be done by first
blocking the rear wheels to keep the Tour-
napull from rolling, and then blocking up
under the fuel tanks near the front, with the
Scraper blade resting on the ground. Then
engage the Power Control Unit hoist clutch,
thereby raising the front wheels off the
ground. Also disengage the corresponding
steering clutch. In this operation, keep the
Tournapull straight with the Scraper and
block up under the Scraper blade when
raised.
Remove the round pinion bearing inspec-
tion plate from the side of the main case.
166
REPAIR SECTION
Then, using a small piece of .002" shim
stock (brass preferred) approximately "4"
in width and 2'i" or 3" long, check bearings
for looseness as follows:
Insert the piece of shim stock between the
bearing cone and cup, placing it between
the rolls. In doing this, hold the piece of
shim stock between the thumb and fore-
finger of one hand, and insert the shim stock
between the rolls, to a depth equal to the
length of the rolls. Make sure the piece of
shim stock is parallel with the rolls. Rotate
the pinion a part of a turn, enough to cause
one of the bearing rolls to roll over the
piece of shim stock.
Remove and examine the piece of shim
stock, being very careful not to tear off and
leave in the bearing any particle of the shim
stock, because of the damage that might
result to the bearings. If the bearing rolls
leave an impression or imprint in the shim
stock, the bearings have not reached a
looseness great enough to make a take-up in
the adjustment necessary, and no adjust-
ment needs to be made. However, if no im-
print is left, it is an indication that the bear-
ings are loose and an adjustment should be
made.
To prevent obtaining a false check from
radial loads applied upon the bearings, make
the above check at four pointstop, bot-
tom, and two sides. Failure of the bearing
to make an imprint in the shim stock at
any one of these four points is an indication
that an adjustment should be made.
Make the adjustment by bending back
the corners of the lock plate and then re-
moving the four capscrews from the ad-
justing plate as shown.
Then remove shims totaling approx. .012"
in thickness from between the adjusting
plate and end of pinion and re-install ad-
justing plate, lock plate, and capscrews,
turning capscrews up tight and thereby
tightening the bearings. (Shims are of three
thickness .004", .0085", and .007".) Be-
fore bending back the corners of the lock
plate and re-installing the inspection plate,
re-check the bearings by again running a
piece of .002" shim stock through the bear-
ing and examining it for imprint as before.
Remove another shim if no imprint is made.
When making the original adjustment
after the Tournapull has been torn down
for an overhaul, remove shims one at a
time until a good imprint is made in a piece
of .002" shim stock.
167
TOUKNAPULL ADJUSTMENTS AND MAINTENANCE
GASKET
RETAINER
OIL SEAL
BOSS
AXLE
BEARING CONE
CAPSCREW
BEARING CU
GEAR
CLUTCH CARRIER
BEARING CUP
BEARING CONE
SHIM
LOCK PLATE
KEY
CAPSCREW
AXLE BEARING
'JUSTING PLATE
FINAL DRIVE AXLE BEARING ADJUSTMENT
Occasional adjusting of the final drive axle bearings is necessary be-
cause of bearing wear.
Check the axle bearings for looseness every 512 hours of operation.
To check the bearings for looseness, first
raise the corresponding drive wheel off the
ground. This can easily be done by first
blocking the rear wheels to keep the Tourna-
pull from rolling and then blocking up under
the fuel tanks near the front, with the
Scraper blade resting on the ground. Then
engage the Power Control Unit hoist clutch,
thereby raising the front wheels off the
ground. Also drain the oil from the main
case. In this operation, keep the Tournapull
straight with the Scraper and block up under
the Scraper blade.
Remove the axle bearing inspection plate
from below the main case as illustrated.
168
REPAIR SECTION
Then, using a small piece of .002" shim
stock (brass preferred) approximately Vi"
in width and 21/2" or 3" long, check bearings
for looseness as follows:
Insert the piece of shim stock between
the bearing cone and cup, placing it be-
tween the rolls. In doing this, hold the
piece of shim stock between the thumb and
fore-finger of one hand, and insert the shim
stock between the rolls to a depth equal to
the length of the rolls. Make sure the piece
of shim stock is parallel with the rolls and
rotate the axle a part of a turn, enough to
cause one of the bearing rolls to roll over
the shim stock.
stock, being very careful not to tear off and
leave in the bearing any particle of the shim
stock, because of the damage which might
stock, the bearings have not reached a loose-
ness great enough to make a take-up in the
adjustment necessary and no adjustment
needs to be made. However, if no imprint
is left, it is an indication that the bearings
are loose and an adjustment should be made.
To prevent obtaining a false check from
radial loads applied upon the bearings, make
the above cneck at four pointstop, bottom,
and two sides. Failure of the bearing to
make an imprint in the shim stock at any
one of these four points is an indication that
an adjustment should be made.
Make the adjustment by bending back
the corners of the lock plate and then re-
moving the four capscrews from the adjust-
ing plate as shown.
Then remove shims totaling approx. .012"
in thickness from between the adjusting
plate and end of axle and re-install adjusting
plate, lock plate, and capscrews, turning
capscrews up tight and thereby tightening
the bearings. (Shims are of three thick-
nesses.004", .0625", and .008.") Before
bending back the corners of the lock plate
and re-installing the inspection plate, re-
check the bearings by again running a piece
of .002" shim stock through the bearing and
examining it for imprint as before. Remove
another shim if no imprint is made.
When making the original adjustment
after the Tournapull has been torn down
for an overhaul, make the adjustment by
removing shims one at a time until a good
imprint is made in a piece of .002" shim
stock.
BEARING
IMPRINT
169
TOURNAPULL ADJUSTMENTS AND M AINTENANCE
PINION LOCKING SCREW
GEAR CARRIER
ADJUSTING NUT
CAPSCREW
BLARING CUP
BEARING CONE
KE1
ADJUSTING NUT
BEARING CUP
IREW
BEARING CONE
SPIRAL BEVEL GEAR CARRIER BEARING ADJUSTMENT
AND GEAR AND PINION LASH ADJUSTMENT
Occasional adjusting of the spiral bevel gear carrier bearings is nec-
essary because of bearing wear. The lash between the spiral bevel gear
and pinion also requires adjusting each time the gear carrier bearings are
adjusted.
Check the spiral bevel gear carrier bearings for looseness approxi-
mately every 1024 hours, at some interval when the deck plate is re-
moved. Also, if a change is made in the bearing adjustment, the lash
tween the gear and pinion must also be checked and an adjustment
made, if needed.
To check the bearings for looseness, insert
a small piece of .002" shim stock (brass
preferred) approximately l/t" in width and
2Vj" or 3" long, between the bearing cone
and cup, placing it between the rolls. In
doing this, hold the piece of shim stock be-
tween the thumb and fore-finger of one
hand, and insert the shim stock between the
rolls, to a depth equal to the length of the
rolls. Make sure the piece of shim stock is
parallel with the rolls. Rotate the gear
carrier a part of a turn, enough to cause
one of the bearing rolls to roll over the piece
of shim stock.
stock, being careful not to tear off and leave
in the bearing any particle of the shim
stock, because of the damage that might
stock, the bearings have not reached a loose-
ness great enough to make a take-up in the
adjustment necessary, and no adjustment
needs to be made. However, if no imprint
is left, it is an indication that the bearings
are loose and an adjustment should be made.
Make the above check at top, bottom, and
two sides of each bearing, as with final drive
pinion and axle bearings.
BEARING IMPRINT
170
REPAIR SECTION
To adjust the bearings, first loosen the
lock screw in the right bearing adjusting nut.
Also block the spiral bevel gear to keep it
from turning. This will prevent the spiral
bevel gear carrier from turning while the
adjustment is being made.
Using the special spanner wrench, turn
the right adjusting nut to the rear only a
very small part of a turn at a time, until
the point is reached where the bearing rolls
just begin to leave a good imprint in the
shim stock when checking as outlined on
opposite page. Then tighten the adjusting
nut lock screw.
In adjusting the bearings, the lash between
the spiral bevel gear and pinion is usually
affected. Therefore, each time a change is
made in the bearing adjustment, the lash
between the gear and pinion should be
checked with a dial indicator as illustrated.
By moving the pinion back and forth to
check the lash between the gear and pinion,
the amount of lash will be recorded on the
dial indicator.
The correct amount of lash is stamped on
the outer circumference of the spiral bevel
gear. If the lash is not as specified (within
.002"), adjust the lash by loosening the lock
screws in both the left and right adjusting
nuts and then turning both adjusting nuts
an equal amount either to the front or to the
rear, thereby either increasing or decreasing
the lash as required. Make final check for
lash after locking both adjusting nuts. Also,
make a final bearing check by seeing if an
imprint is still made in a piece of .002"
shim stock.
171
TRANSMISSION MAINSHAFT BEARING ADJUSTMENT
Occasional adjusting of the transmission mainshaft bearings is neces-
sary because of bearing wear.
Check the bearings for looseness approximately every 1024 hours of
operatipn, at intervals when the deck plate is removed.
To check the bearings for looseness, insert a pry bar between the
spiral bevel pinion and the housing cover and, by prying back and forth
with the bar, detect any end movement of the pinion. If available, a dial
indicator can be used to good advantage in measuring the end play of the
shaft.
If noticeable end play is found, make adjustment by first backing off
gear carrier right adjusting nut and then shifting spiral bevel gear and
carrier to the right as far as possible. Bend back peened edge of pinion
lock screw and turn lock screw out of end of shaft. Slide pinion to rear
on transmission mainshaft and then loosen four capscrews securing hous-
ing cover to transmission case.
Remove one or more of the shims from behind the housing cover, as
needed to bring bearings into correct adjustment. (Shims are of two
thicknesses, .005" and .0079" to make possible a fine variation in adjust-
ment.) Make sure no small pieces of shims are left under housing cover.
Re-tighten the four capscrews in the housing cover, turning them up tight.
Slide the pinion forward and tighten and lock the pinion lock screw.
The adjustment is correct when all
mainshaft end play is eliminated, with-
out a heavy drag on the bearings. After
completing the adjustment, re-adjust
spiral bevel gear carrier bearings and
correctly set the lash between the
spiral bevel gear and pinion. (See pre-
ceding page.)
172
REPAIR SECTION
DRAWBAR ADJUSTMENT
Occasional adjusting of the Tournapull drawbar is necessary because
of the wear that takes place in the drawbar ball and sockets.
When the drawbar has become worn to the point that there is notice-
able end play in the ball and sockets, an adjustment should be made.
To make the adjustment, turn the Tournapull into the extreme
cramped position, thus turning the drawbar to one side and exposing
the rear end of the drawbar as illustrated, making ample room to reach
the point of adjustment.
Remove the four capscrews (A) and end plug keeper (B) which
lock end plug (C) (See drawing above). To tighten universal ball (D)
turn end plug (C) clockwise until there is a noticeable amount of drag
on the universal ball (D).
When the correct adjustment is reached, replace end plug keeper
(B) and four capscrews (A), drawing capscrews up tight, thus complet-
ing the adjustment.
The same procedure should be used in adjusting the front ball and
socket. However, a different procedure must be used in reaching the
point of adjustment, as is explained below.
First lower the Scraper blade to the ground and block both rear
wheels. Remove the four capscrews (E), two hitch clamps (F) and
shims (G), thus unhooking the drawbar from the Tournapull. Raise the
front of the Tournapull by means of a hoist or jack, high enough to per-
mit the drawbar to drop down out of hitch (H), which is a structural
part of the Tournapull main rase. The point of adjustment for the front
ball and socket can now be reached
from beneath the Tournapull. After the
adjustment has been made, raise the
front end of the drawbar back into
position and lower the front of the
Tournapull. Then re-install shims (G),
hitch clamps (F), and capscrews (E),
completing the adjustment.
173
LUBRICATION
Complete instructions for lubricating the Tournapull are covered in
the Operation Section. (Refer to pages 72 and 73 of the Operation
Section.)
RELINING DRIVING CONES
With the steering clutches completely disassembled, cut the worn
bi-metallic lining loose from the driven cone with a grinder or chisel,
thus removing the old lining.
To re-line the clutch, clamp the lining segments in place on the ,cone,
allowing the lining to extend beyond the surface of the cone about V4"
on both sides. Weld the lining by making a fillet weld on each side of
the cone, between the back side of the base metal of the lining and the
edges of the cone.
Use coated electrodes of Va" size or smaller in doing this welding, and
keep the welding heat as low as possible.
The lining comes in segments, each about 10" in length. Leave about
1/16" space between the ends of the segments when welding the lining to
the cone. Do not weld across the ends.
Before installing the re-lined cone in the steering clutch, the cone
must be chucked in a lathe, and the lining machined down until the sur-
face is perfectly smooth. Machine off only enough of the lining to re-
move any high spots caused by thick and thin lining segments. This lining
must be machined to a 15 degree taper.
The bi-metallic lining on these clutches run in oil, and withstand
wear exceptionally well. However, like all clutch facings, eventual re-
placement is necessary.
RELINING BRAKE BANDS
The bi-metallic brake lining on the Tournapull brakes does not wear
rapidly. However, all brake facings will wear, and occasional replace-
ment of the brake' lining on this machine is necessary.
To reline the brakes, it is necessary to first remove the brake bands
from the Tournapull.
The worn lining must then be cut loose from the brake band by cut-
ting with a grinder or chisel through the weld metal along the edges of
the lining.
Install the new brake lining by clamping the segments to the brake
band, and welding them in place.
Leave a small amount of space between the brake lining segments
when welding them to the brake band. Make a fillet wejd between the
base metal of the lining and the brake band, along the two edges of the
segments, and not across the ends. The welding should be done with
nothing larger than Vi inch coated electrodes, and the welding heat
should be kept as low as possible. One bead or pass along each side of
the lining is sufficient to secure the lining to the brake band.
174
ENGINE
Part Two
REPAIR SECTION
REPAIR SECTION
DISASSEMBLY OF ENGINE
It depends largely upon how completely the engine is to be dis-
assembled as to whether it is necessary to remove the engine from the
Tournapull. Many parts can be removed from the engine without
difficulty with the engine in position in the Tournapull, while other
parts can be removed more easily with the engine removed. Normally,
for major overhauls it is advisable to first remove the engine from
the Tournapull. For minor disassembly operations, however, the amount
of time and work required in removing the engine might make its
removal impractical.
The instructions which follow outline the correct procedures for
disassembling the engine. (For instructions for removing the engine
from the Tournapull, refer to disassembling instructions in Tournapull
Repair Section.)
Keep Engine and Parts Clean
Before disassembling the Cummins Diesel engine, clean the exterior
thoroughly with a good cleaning solvent or steam jet. A high percentage
of poor engine performance and costly repairs can be traced to lack of
cleanliness.
ROCKER
HOUSING
COVER
ROCKER HOUSING COVERS
Remove the rocker arm housing covers by
taking out the three cap screws holding each
cover to the housing.
AIR CLEANERS
Next, remove the air filter cups from the
air cleaners and drain the oil. By removing
the mounting cap screws holding the air
cleaners to the intake manifold the cleaners
can be lifted from the engine. Remove the
spacing adapters from the intake manifold. -
INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
Loosen the manifold stud nuts just enough
to allow the intake manifold to be lifted from
the engine. Turn the clamps and the exhaust
manifold can be removed.
176
REPAIR SECTION
DISASSEMBLING
WATER MANIFOLD
Remove the two cap screws from the water
by-pass connection at the cylinder block. Then
remove the two cap screws from each foot on
the water manifold, and lift the manifold
assembly from the engine.
GENERATOR
Remove the four cap screws from the gen-
erator bracket and lift the generator from the
drive coupling.
GENERATOR DRIVE
Remove the cap screws holding the gen-
erator drive unit to the cylinder block and re-
move the unit.
It is sometimes necessary to tap the unit
lightly with a soft hammer or pry with a
screwdriver, to loosen.
.-
CRANKING MOTOR
The cranking motor is mounted on the fly-
wheel housing with three capscrews. By re-
moving these three capscrews, the motor with
its mounting spacer may be pulled from the
housing.
WATER PUMP
Loosen the capscrews in the water pump
clamp ring. With a screwdriver inserted into
the hole in the pump body, rotate the pump
to the bottom point of its eccentric to loosen
the water pump drive belts.
Remove the cap screws and pull the water
pump assembly from the gear housing.
177
REPAIR SECTION
WATER PUMP DRIVE PULLEY
Remove the nut and lock plate holding the
water pump drive pulley to the keyed fuel
pump shaft. This pulley fits very tightly on
the shaft, and it will be necessary to use a
puller to remove it.
FUEL SUPPLY LINES
Disconnect and remove all fuel lines lead-
ing from the fuel pump to the injector fuel
inlet connections.
FUEL DRAIN LINE
The fuel drain line leading from the drain
manifold to the fuel pump should next be
taken off.
FUEL PUMP
In removing the fuel pump, the three cap
screws holding the fuel pump to the gear case
should be taken out first, and the two bottom
screws holding the pump to the block next.
Hold the pump while removing the two top
capscrews, and with a slightly backward mo-
tion to disengage the drive gear, lift the pump
from the engine.
Disconnect the fuel drain lines from the
fuel drain connections. With a screwdriver
remove the clamp screws and lift the injector
drain manifold from the engine.
DISASSEMBLING
^^^^^^^^^^m
,-v ... f
Wottr Pump Drive Pulley
loosening lujtctsr idjuiliig Scrtwi
LOOSENING INJECTOR ADJUSTING SCREWS
Loosen all injector adjusting lock nuts and
with a screwdriver, back out adjusting screws
three turns.
178
REPAIR SECTION
DISASSEMBLING
ROCKER ARM HOUSING
Remove the lubricating oil pipe cap and
gasket. Remove the seven stud nuts from
each rocker housing assembly and lift the
assembly from the engine by grasping the
end of each injector rocker.
PUSH RODS
Remove the push rods, starting at the front
end of the engine. Tag them from 1 to 18
respectively so that they may be re-installed
in exactly the same position.
FUEL INLET AND DRAIN CONNECTIONS
Unscrew and remove the fuel inlet and fuel
drain connections from the cylinder heads.
INJECTORS
After removing the injector hold down
nuts lift the injector from the cylinder head.
Be extremely careful not to bruise the tip.
COMPRESSION RELEASE SPRING
The compression release spring can be re-
moved from the front cylinder head by taking
out the cap screw securing it to the block.
CYLINDER HEAD
Remove the cylinder head stud nuts with
a heavy duty socket wrench and lift the
cylinder head assembly from the studs.
This can best be done by two men since it
is necessary to lift the head straight up to
clear the studs. The manifold studs and two
screwdrivers inserted in the fuel connection
holes can be used as lifting handles.
Fuel Inlet and Drain Connections'
179
REPAIR SECTION
DISASSEMBLING
Oil Regulator 4 Thrust Plate
v.
COMPRESSION RELEASE SHAFT
To remove the compression release shaft,
first remove the lock screw at the rear end of
the cylinder block and pull the shaft from the
block at the lever end. Remove the packing
gland and old packing.
Remove the cap screws from the com-
pression release bearings, and pull the bear-
ings from the block.
OIL FILLER AND GAUGE BRACKET
Remove the four mounting cap screws
from the oil filler and gauge bracket and lift
the bracket from the engine.
OIL REGULATOR AND THRUST PLATE
Remove the two capscrews from the thrust
plate on the face of the gear cover, and
remove the oil pressure regulator plate, sleeves
and spring.
LUBRICATING OIL LINES AND OIL PAN
Lay the engine on the manifold side. It should be blocked up
slightly on the top edge of the cylinder block.
Remove the oil suction line and the oil pressure line from the
lubricating oil pump to the block. The pressure line is in two sections;
one from the pump to the oil filter and one from the oil filter to the
cylinder block.
Remove all mounting bolts and cap screws from the oil pan and
lift it from the engine.
FILTER CASES
Remove the cap screws from the mounting brackets of the filter
cases and lift them from the engine.
LUBRICATING OIL PIPE
Unscrew the lubricating oil pipe by inserting a pin punch in the
hole drilled through the pipe. Remove the pipe, pipe packing and
cylinder head gasket.
There are four nuts and lock washers hold-
ing the lubricating oil pump to the block. It
is necessary to unscrew the lower inside nut
as the lubricating oil pump is being pulled
from the studs holding it to the gear housing.
180
REPAIR SECTION
DISASSEMBLING
GEAR CASE COVER
Remove all capscrews from the face of the
gear case cover and with a large screwdriver
pry the gear case cover from the dowel pins.
CAM ROCKER LEVER BOX
Remove the cam rocker housing capscrews
and with a small screwdriver pry the cam
rocker housing from the dowel pins. Lift
the assembly from the engine and mark to
insure replacement in the same position.
IDLER GEAR
After removing the lock screw and plate,
slip the idler gear off its shaft.
CAMSHAFT AND GEAR
Rotate the camshaft gear slightly while
pulling the camshaft from the engine. Do not
remove the gear from the camshaft.
CLEANING CYLINDER LINERS
Scrape all carbon from the top of the
cylinder liners. Pistons on the Cummins
Diesel are closely fitted to the liners and
failure to clean the liners thoroughly may
cause the pistons to stick. .
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
Remove the connecting rod bolt nuts and
tap the bolts from the cap and the rod. Fail-
ure to remove the bolts may cause the head of
the bolt to catch on the bottom side of the
cylinder liner before all the rings clear the
liner and thus lock the piston.
With a small wooden stick push the piston
and connecting rod from the cylinder liner.
Hold the piston as it is being pushed from
the liner so that it will not be dropped and
damaged.
Re-assemble connecting rod bolts, cap,
bearings and nuts as they are taken out since
bearing caps are not interchangeable.
PULLING CYLINDER LINERS
A puller should be used to remove
cylinder liners to prevent damage to
liners and block.
the
the
181
REPAIR SECTION
Ji*
FLYWHEEL
Remove the lock wires and take out the
flywheel cap screws. Insert two manifold
studs through two opposite cap screw holes
in the flywheel and screw them into the crank-
shaft flange. These will 'provide a support
for the flywheel during its removal.
- In the two holes provided, place Va" cap
screws 2l/i" long, threaded their entire
length. By alternately turning in these cap
screws, the flywheel will be pulled from the
crankshaft.
FLYWHEEL HOUSING
Remove the cap screws from the flywheel
housing and with a block of wood or a soft
hammer, tap the housing on each side to re-
move from the dowel pins.
REAR COVER PLATE
Remove the nuts from the two dowel bolts
holding the rear cover plates together, and
tap out the bolts. The mounting cap screws
on the cover plates may then be removed
and the plates pried from the dowel pins with
a screwdriver.
REMOVING MAIN BEARING CAPS
Before attempting to remove the main
bearing caps it is best to turn the engine up-
side down on the skid.
Remove the main bearing stud nuts and
with a small pry bar loosen each main bear-
ing cap from the dowel grooves and lift from
the main bearing studs.
CRANKSHAFT
With a 3A" rope lift the crankshaft from
the cylinder block. Be very careful to remove
the lower main bearings from the crank before
lifting.
Remove all upper main bearings and dowel
rings from the cylinder block.
182
Lilting Croikfhoft
REPAIR SECTION
INSPECTION AND REPAIR OF ENGINE UNITS
INSPECTION OF UNITS
DRIVE BELTS: Drive belts are often neglected because defective
belts may not lead to an immediate penalty. However, the temperature
of the engine is largely dependent upon proper operation of the fan and
the water pump. Drive belts should be kept tightened to the proper
tension at all times and replaced whenever edges are worn or frayed.
ELECTRIC WIRING: It is essential that electric connections be
properly made and that conductors be of the right size and well insulated.
Do not neglect inspection and proper replacement of defective wiring.
GASKETS: Leaking gaskets will immediately manifest themselves
by loss of lubricating oil, fuel oil, water, or air. New gaskets of the
proper design and supplied by the manufacturer should be used when
parts are removed or after a general overhaul of the engine. This applies
to all kinds of gaskets, whether copper, asbestos, steel, or composition.
MAIN AND CONNECTING ROD BEARING SHELLS: The
type of work the engine performs, its loads and operating speeds will
determine to a large extent how long bearing shells may safely be used.
For instance, main bearings worn .005" oversize might not be con-
sidered useable in an engine operating at high speeds and pulling heavy
loads, whereas the same bearings in an engine operating at lower speeds
and pulling lighter loads might give several thousand hours additional
service. In general, main bearings and connecting rod bearings may be
re-installed as long as the bearing shells show good bearing surfaces.
Bearing wear can be measured on the old bearing by comparing the
thickness of the shell with that of a new one. In general, when one or
two sets of main or connecting rod bearings are so badly worn that they
need replacement during an overhaul, the entire set should be replaced.
CYLINDER LINERS: The wear on cylinder liners and out of
round conditions should be checked and recorded at the first overhaul
period. The working conditions will determine the rate of wear on
liners as well as bearings. One large equipment owner has made it a
practice to rebore cylinder liners after 8000 hours operation.
PISTONS: These pistons are cam ground, consequently are not
round at the skirt. The piston ring wear and cylinder liner wear all
contribute to eventual blow-by. Measurement of both piston and
cylinder liners should help determine whether oversize liners and
pistons should be used.
PISTON RINGS: Piston rings should be replaced whenever the
piston is pulled.
INSPECTION OF OTHER ENGINE BEARINGS, BUSHINGS,
ETC: The speed and load on any bearing or bushing or moving part
determine the rate of wear. It is well to keep a record of the wear of
various moving parts between the overhaul periods and replace all
183
REPAIR SECTION
those parts that might conceivably fail before the next overhaul period.
Lubricating oil pressure must be maintained at 30 to 50 pounds (engine
at full speed). Most bearings in the Cummins engine are lubricated from
the bottom which tends to provide for maintenance of oil pressures and
proper lubrication throughout longer than the usual periods.
CAMSHAFT: Camshaft lobes should not show any bad scored
marks. These would result (in the case of the injector cam lobes) in
poor fuel delivery.
GEARS: As long as gears do not show visible wear and broken
teeth, etc. they may be safely reinstalled.
OIL SEALS: At any time that oil seals allow an appreciable leak
of lubricating oil, they should be replaced. This applies to all kinds of
oil seals: injector links, push rods, etc.
WATER SEALS: Whenever water seals are scratched or broken
or worn unevenly, they must be replaced.
FUEL PUMP: Before removing the fuel pump from the engine,
determine the cause of failure. This can be done by inspection as
follows:
1. Remove the inspection plug on the side of the distributor housing. If fuel
runs out, the distributor cover and disc may be scored and, if scored, they should
be replaced.
i. If tuel spurts or foms out. (with engine running) the thrust bearing may
he worn and not sealing properly.
3. If the pump is overflowing at the drain hole, check the following:
a. The distributor disc may be scored or the thrust bearing worn.
b. Remove the by-pass valve and check to see that it is not sticking, and
that it is seating properly.
c. Remove the float chamber and wash thoroughly. Replace the float valve
if it sticks.
Note: Never plug the drain hole. Find the cause of leakage and correct.
Otherwise, dilution of the lubrication oil will result.
4. Check the gear pump pressure to see that it is not below 60 pounds at idling
speed. This can be caused by:
a. Worn gear pump.
b. Pressure regulator worn or stuck.
5. Defective seal on the drive shaft in the No. 1 body.
When rebuilding the fuel pump many of the fits are so close that only by
careful observance of the step by step procedure in the service section can a satis-
factory job be attained. Many parts of the fuel system are supplied by the factory
only in pairs (as outlined in the service section) and are not interchangeable with
other parts. No inspection can be made of the fuel pump parts except as it is torn
down piece by piece.
Caution: Never remove the fuel pump until it has been checked on^the engine
as outlined in the preceding instructions.
CYLINDER HEADS: Inspect the cylinder heads for cracks, warps,
broken or weak valve springs, badly worn valve guides and valves.
THERMOSTATS: Thermostats should be inspected by testing
water. They should start to open at 140 F. and should open fully at
160" F. As the water is cooled to 140 F. they should close.
SCREENS AND FILTERS: Screens and filters should be cleaned
as a natural procedure at all overhaul periods. They should be replaced
whenever defective.
184
REPAIR SECTION
REPAIR OF ENGINE UNITS
All disassembled units and parts must be thoroughly washed with
good, non-explosive cleaning solvent and dried with clean, compressed
air. A large percentage of engine failures are directly traceable to a
lack of cleanliness. Cleanliness and care in handling the parts as re-
moved, repaired and reassembled will pay dividends in satisfactory
service.
As the units are inspected, cleaned and repaired, they should be
laid out in an orderly arrangement on clean paper or on a clean bench,
so the machined surfaces will be protected from contact with other parts.
CRANKSHAFT
1. Clean out the drilled oil holes in the crankshaft with a rod and
cleaning solvent and dry with compressed air.
2. Inspect the bearing journals for scored marks, excessive wear
or an out of round condition.
3. Consult the engine specifications for bearing clearances and
undersize bearings available for reground crankshafts.
MAIN BEARING CAPS
1. The main bearing caps are finish machined in the block, with
the caps in position, and tightened in place with the prescribed foot
pounds torque tension.
2. The main bearing caps must never be filed, interchanged or
turned end for end. No shims are provided.
3. Inspect the bearing caps closely and remove all burrs and em-
bedded dirt.
GENERAL BEARING INSTRUCTIONS
The main and connecting rod bearing shells are steel backed and
lined with suitable bearing metal. Adjustments are unnecessary.
Main and connecting rod bearings, either standard or under size,
are precision type and are provided with the recommended clearance
for the oil film on the shaft.
Warning: Under no circumstances should any attempt be made
to ream these bearings.
The method of measuring a bear-
ing shell as shown is to use a micro-
meter in conjunction with a steel ball.
The latter will rest on the inside of
the bearing shell. Bearing wear can
be determined by checking the di-
mensions of a new bearing shell
against that of the old one. As bear-
ing shells are in halves, it will be
necessary to take the worn dimen-
sion of the bottom half of the bearing
shell.
185
REPAIR SECTION
A properly fitted bearing, after a reasonable period of service, will
show a dull gray or copper color, depending upon the type shell used.
Bright spots indicate metal contact and black spots, excessive clearance.
ing.
FLYWHEEL AND FLYWHEEL HOUSING
1. Inspect the joining surfaces of the flywheel and flywheel hous-
Clean and remove all burrs, etc.
2. Inspect the teeth on the ring gear.
CYLINDER LINERS
1. Clean the outside of the cylinder liners with a wire brush and
cleaning solvent to remove all scale and lime or rust deposits, being
very careful to clean the packing ring grooves thoroughly.
2. Clean the shoulders of the flange. Remove all carbon and gum
from inside the cylinder liners.
3. Check the wear of the cylinder liner with inside micrometers
or cylinder guage.
PISTON RINGS
1. Remove the piston rings with expanding type pliers. Clean the
piston ring grooves thoroughly of all carbon deposits. Open the oil
drains. Remove all carbon from the head of the pistons.
2. The W oil ring fits in the lower
groove of the piston, next to the piston pia
The 3/16" oil ring is next. Gap clearances
of these rings should be .015" to .018"
when new.
3. The next two rings are lap joint
compression rings and should be installed
with the word "TOP" facing up. No at-
tempt should be made to file or fit lap
joint rings.
4. The top ring is a wedge type com-
pression ring and must be fitted with a
gap clearance of .015" to .025".
5. To check the piston ring gap clear-
ance, place the rings in the cylinder liners
and push down evenly about 4" with the
head of a bare piston. Check the gap
clearance with a feeler gauge.
6. To assure better performance from
the piston rings, stagger the ring gaps so
they are not in line with each other or
with the piston pin.
CHECKING PISTON RING GAP CLEARANCE
ASSEMBLING PISTON RINGS
186
INJECTOR CUP WIPER
The injector cup wiper is screwed into the head of the piston at
the factory with a special tool and is not subject to replacement or
service.
FITTING PISTONS
It should not be necessary to replace the pistons and to regrind or
replace the cylinder liners as long as the engine starts easily, and blowby
is not excessive.
Replacement pistons should not only fit the new or reground
cylinder liners with .004" to .005" clearance for cast-iron pistons, and
.005" to .006" clearance for aluminum pistons, but they should also be
the same weight as the replaced pistons. The piston oversize number,
stamped on the head of the piston, must correspond to the size stamped
on the top edge of the cylinder liner.
NOTE: The piston diameter must be checked at right angles to
the piston pin hole on the skirt of the piston for the largest diameter, due
to the piston being cam ground.
The piston pin in the standard piston is fitted to the piston with
.0005" clearance, or so that it can just be pushed in with the hand. Re-
install the snap ring at each end of the pin and test for fit. The pins
should be just free enough to turn in the piston.
REPLACING CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
1. When replacing the piston pin bushings, ream the piston pin
hole to 2.001" to 2.0015". The length between the centers of the pin
hole and crank bearing hole must be held to 12.000"
2. The hole in the large end of the rod is finished by grinding to
provide a smooth backing support for the bearing shells and accurate
alignment with the piston pin holes.
3. The rod cap is assembled with no adjustment provided.
4. The connecting rod bearing shells are fitted for a shaft clearance
of .004" to .005".
5. For rod side clearance, the sides are accurately machined to
provide .006" to .008" clearance.
6. Connecting rod caps must not be filed, interchanged or turned
end for end. The connecting rod bolts
likewise must not be interchanged.
7. Before fitting new bearings, clean
the crank pin carefully. The back of
the bearings and the bearing seats must
be smooth and clean or the bearings will
not fit the shaft properly. Make sure the
oil feed holes are open and clean.
8. Check the condition of the crank
pin surfaces for out of round, wear and
MAIING OOWtt
187
taper. When replacing one or more rod bearings in service, all other rod
bearings should be examined and replaced if necessary.
CAMSHAFT AND GEAR
1. Inspect the camshaft bushings in the cylinder block and the
camshaft bearing surfaces. If the camshaft bushings must be replaced,
drive them out with a suitable drift and hammer and install new cam-
shaft bushings, being very careful to line up the oil holes correctly.
2. Refer to Engine Specifications (Page 30 of Operation Section)
for position of various length bushings.
3. It is not often necessary to remove the cam gear, but if it is
removed, replace and time with the camshaft, indexing the two timing
marks.
CAM ROCKER LEVERS
DISASSEMBLY: 1. Remove the
set screws holding the shaft in the
housing.
2. Use a punch to drive through
the expansion plug and remove the
plug.
3. Drive the shaft from the
housing.
4. To remove the rollers and roller
pins, first tap out the pin rivet, then
tap the pin from the lever.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Inspect the bush-
ings and if necessary to replace, drive
the bushings from the rockers with
a suitable drift. Install new bushings,
making sure the oil holes in the new
bushings are lined up properly. Ream
to .750".
2. Assemble new pins to the rollers
in position.
3. Tap the pin through the roller
and lever, and rivet in place.
4. Assemble the levers and shaft
in position, with the injector lever in
the center of each assembly.
5. Assemble the shaft lock screws.
6. Install new expansion plugs in
each end of the shaft housing, seating
into the bore of the housing.
188
REPAIR SECTION
DISASSEMBLY: 1. Remove the
eight capscrews and lock washers that
hold the pump body to the bracket.
2. Press the idler gear stud from
the pump body.
3. To remove the pump drive gear, use a puller with puller studs
screwed into the two threaded holes in the gear.
4. Remove the Woodruff key from the shaft.
. 5. To remove the bracket, tap the edge with a soft hammer.
6. Remove the cotter pin from the hex nuts on the end of the
drive shaft, and remove the nut and retaining washers from the shaft.
7. Press the pump drive gear and shaft from the ball bearing.
8. Press the drive gear from the shaft and remove the Woodruff
key.
9. Remove the snap ring from the bearing cage and tap the
bearing from the cage.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Install the Woodruff key in the drive end of the
drive shaft and press the driving gear on the shaft until it is snug
against the shoulder.
2. Press the ball bearing into the bearing cage and lock in place
with the snap ring.
3. Insert the end of the shaft in the cage and install the retaining
washer, nut and cotter pin on the end of the shaft.
4. Press a new bushing in place in the pump bracket and ream
to .875".
5. Using a new gasket, insert the pump bracket over the bearing
cage. Install the Woodruff key in the shaft and press the pump gear on
until the shaft gear has a clearance of .0015" between the gear and the
bracket.
6. Press the idler gear shaft into the pump body until the shaft is
just below the face of the gear body.
7. Attach the pump body to the
pump bracket with eight cap screws
and lock washers, using a new gasket
to avoid leakage. Turn the drive gears
to see that the pump gears are free.
189
ENGINE UNITS
t'WI tIAIINO MOTCM
REPAIR SECTION
CYLINDER HEADS
DISASSEMBLY: 1. Place the cylinder
head on a bench and compress the valve
spring with a suitable tool. Take out the
valve spring locks, retainers, springs and
valves.
2. If valve guide bushings require replace-
ment, drive them out from the under side
of the head.
3. The valve guide bushings are installed
by driving them in from above. Use a hard-
wood block to prevent distortion. Ream to
.500".
ASSEMBLY: 1. The valves should be re-
faced only when warped or leaking. If they
are only slightly pitted, but still show a good
seat, they should not be ground.
2. To secure the best results, the valves
must be refaced by removing them from the
head and refacing them individually with pre-
cision refacing equipment. The seats in the
heads should be refaced with a precision stone
grinder.
3. Reface all valves to a 30 true seat.
4. Reface all valve seats to a 30C
seat.
true
5. Use an indicator to check the alignment
of the valve guides with the valve seats.
6. Place light pencil marks on the valve
face and seat as shown and rotate the valve
approximately 10. A true seat will be in-
dicated if all the pencil marks are broken by
the turning of the valve.
7. Reinstall the valves, springs, retainers
and locks, using a valve spring compression
tool.
NOTE: Always make sure you use Cum-
mins Engine Company valves, marked CECO.
Use valves marked "EX" in the exhaust.
8. Inspect the gasket face on the head
and the copper injector seat for scratches.
190
INJECTOR FUEL INLET CONNECTIONS
1. There are two check valves in the fuel line between the fuel
pump and the injector cup. One is in the injector fuel inlet connection.
2. The check valves are opened by fuel pressure from the metering
pump and are closed when pump delivery is finished. The operation
of the injector fuel inlet connection valve is very important and it
should be checked occasionally for leaks and breaking point.
3. The check valve should break at not less than 35 pounds and
not more than 50 pounds fuel pressure. This can be checked by apply-
ing fuel pressure to the regular fuel line connection from the priming
pump to the pressure pump, and reading from the fuel pump pressure
gauge.
comi OASXIT
INJECTOR FUEL INLET CONNECTION
IMAU XIIW ftUO
SERVICE: 1. To service the check valve, ball and spring, remove
the small screw plug.
2. The strainer screen should be cleaned occasionally. When
the screen is cleaned, replace the cage gasket.
3. The copper gasket on the check valve must be replaced if found
to be damaged.
'UPPER ROCKER HOUSINGS
DISASSEMBLY: 1. Take out the set screw that holds the rocker
arm shaft in the housing.
2. Remove the expansion plugs at each end of the housing. Using
a sharp pointed punch, drive through the expansion plug on one end
and drive the shaft far enough to remove the plug from the opposite end.
3. Drive the shaft out of the housing from either end and remove
the rocker arms and bushings.
4. Drive the bushings out of the levers with a suitable drift.
5. To remove the rocker arm roller, tap out the rivet and remove
the pin and roller.
6. To remove the injector rocker
socket, press it out from the top side
of the lever.
NOTE: If the injector rocker socket
is cracked, lubricating oil will leak down
the injector and drain to the fuel pump
where it will be recirculated and burn
as fuel.
191
REPAIR SECTION
ASSEMBLY: Inspect the disassem-
bled parts and replace worn or damaged
parts with new ones and proceed as
follows:
1. Assemble the jam nuts and adjust-
ing screws to the rocker arm levers, if
removed.
2. Install rollers and roller pins and
rivets in place with the new rivets.
NOTE: Only the exhaust rocker levers
are drilled for lubrication to the valve
rollers.
3. Press new bushings into the rocker
levers and ream to 1.125". Observe that
the bushings used for the levers must be
installed so that the holes for the lubrica-
tion are correctly indexed.
4. Assemble the injector rocker lever
sockets.
5. Assemble the levers in the housing,
and push the rocker shaft in place.
6. Install the lock screw to hold the shaft and tighten securely.
7. Install new expansion plugs in each end of the housing and
tighten.
8. Install circlips between the rocker levers.
FUEL AND OIL LINES
1. Inspect the flared ends of all fuel and oil lines for breaks and
repair by reflaring, or replace if needed.
2. Inspect the connections for cross threads and faulty seats, and
replace if necessary.
CAUTION: Care must be used not to bend the lines unnecessarily,
nor to disassemble further than necessary for repair.
WATER MANIFOLD AND THERMOSTATS
1. Remove the by-pass connection from the water manifold and
take out the thermostats.
2. Remove the cap screws from the thermostat housing cover and
remove the cover.
3. Inspect the themostats to see that they are in good working con-
dition by immersing them in a pail of water heated to 140 F. At this
temperature they should start to open. When the water is further heated
to 160 F. , they should fully open. As the water is cooled to 140 F.,
they should close.
4. Replace the thermostats in the housing and in the by-pass
connection.
5. Use new gaskets and assemble the thermostat housing cover and
the by-pass connection to the water manifold.
6. Replace the hose connection.
192
GEAR CASE COVER
1. If the old oil seal around the water pump drive pulley has not
been removed from the gear case cover, tap it out from the inside with
a small punch.
2. Install a new oil seal against the shoulder provided, with the
small spring to the inside of the gear cover. A mandrel must be used to
prevent damage to the seal.
3. Replace the crankshaft oil seal in the gear case cover. This seal
must always be in good condition. It is replaced by driving in with a
mandrel. Use a pilot to keep the seal from turning the wrong way.
4. Inspect the camshaft ball bearing
in the gear case cover. Replace if worn
and lock with snap rings.
WATER PUMP
DISASSEMBLY: 1. Using a suitable
puller, pull the impeller from the shaft.
2. To remove the seal assembly, re-
move the small lock ring.
3. Remove the cotter pin, nut and
washer and pull the drive pulley with a
suitable puller.
4. Remove the lock ring from the pump
housing and screw out the retainer.
5. Press the shaft and bearing assem-
bly from the impeller side of the housing.
ASSEMBLY: 1. Assemble the bear-
ings to the shaft with the lock ring and
retainer.
2. With the gasket and washers insert-
ed, screw the retaining nut down flush with
the face of the housing, lining up the lock
ring hole and inserting the lock ring in
place.
3. Assemble the Woodruff key to the
shaft. Press the driving pulley on the
shaft and lock in place with the nut and
cotter pin.
NOTE: Inspect the face of the carbon
seal and the face of the impeller on which
the carbon seal rides for any nicks or
193
SniNID WIINCH
scratches. If any scratches or marks are present, it will be necessary to
face the impeller to a smooth flat surface to prevent water leaks from
the carbon seal.
4. Assemble the carbon seal assembly to the impeller and secure
in place with the lock ring.
5. Check the seal over the shaft to see that it fits freely on the
shaft before assembling. This is very important to insure proper
operation of the seal.
6. Press the impeller in place until it is down against the shoulder
of the shaft.
LUBRICATION: The water pump bearings should be lubricated
after assembly and periodically thereafter. For this purpose, lubricating
holes are provided as shown.
OIL PAN
Remove the oil pan screen and with cleaning solvent and a brush,
wash the oil pan and the screen thoroughly. Replace the screen to the
oil pan.
EXHAUST AND INTAKE MANIFOLDS
1. Clean both manifolds of all rust, scale, or other foreign matter,
inside and out
2. Clean all carbon from the exhaust piping.
THE INJECTOR
In servicing the injector, close adherence to the following recom-
mendations is essential to the engine's functioning at maximum efficiency.
First, have separate clean containers
in which to wash the injector and its
working parts. Use clean, suitable, clean-
ing solvent and wash the outside of the
injector thoroughly. Dry the injector
with clean compressed air.
When servicing the injector, never
clamp the injector body in a vise. Clamp-
ing in a vise usually causes distortion of
the body and ultimately a sticking plung-
er. It is recommended that a simple fix-
ture, as shown, be used.
INJECTOR CUP: 1. Inspect the in-
jector cup spray holes as described on
page 196 of Repair Section. If any of the
spray holes are stopped up, or other injec-
tor trouble is apparent, disassemble as fur-
ther explained.
2. Place the injector in the holding
fixture with the cup end up. With the
spline wrench, remove the cup from the
body.
194
REPAIR SECTION
INJECTOR PLUNGER: 1. Place the in-
jector in the holding fixture with the plunger
spring up.
2. With a screwdriver pry the injector
plunger retaining bail from the body.
3. Pull the plunger seal and spring from
the body.
4. Remove the cover gasket.
INJECTOR CHECK VALVE: 1. With a
screw driver, remove the two fillister head
screws from the top plate or housing and
gasket.
2. With a large screwdriver, remove the
body plug.
3. With an Allen wrench, remove the in-
jector check valve and seat.
4. Turn the injector body over and tap in
the palm of the hand to remove the check
valve spring and stop.
5. If the check valve is stuck in the valve
seat, it indicates that the valve has worn
through the hardness of the seat and must be
replaced. Attempting to reseat this valve
would mean only short life for the injector.
Caution: Check valve and seat are sup-
plied only in pairs and must be installed that
way.
6. The check valve gasket must be replac-
ed each time the check valve is removed. The
gasket can be removed with a tool made from
an old check valve seat.
7. It may be necessary to tap and tool a
few times with a bronze punch and hammer
to loosen the gasket.
Warning: Do not use a chisel to remove
gasket or damage will result to the injector
body.
8. Wash the injector body thoroughly in
cleaning solvent and dry with clean com-
pressed air.
195
REMOVING CHECK VALVE
REMOVING INJECTOR VALVE
SPRING AND STOP
AMOVING INJECTOR CHECK|
VALVE SEAT GASKET
9. The check valve spring should be .289"
than 17/64", it must be replaced.
long. If it is shorter
10. With the check valve spring and stop in position, hold the
injector upside down and then insert the check valve spring and stop
to its working position. Use a small inserting tool as shown.
11. Reverse the position of the injector and remove the tool. Be
sure the tool and parts are free from oil or the
stop and spring may pull out of place when
the tool is removed.
12. Place a new gasket on the check valve
seat. With a little clean cup grease or vaseline
on the check valve, assemble it very carefully
to the body. Tighten securely in place with
an Allen wrench.
CHECK VALVE TRAVEL: 1. The check
valve travel should be checked carefully to
determine the check valve opening. Limits
are from .015." to .025". Too much travel
will cause early failure of the check valve
spring and too little will deprive the cylinder
of fuel.
2. If the travel is less than .015", it may
be that the check valve seat gasket is too
thin, and it will be necessary to replace it with
a new gasket. If there is too much travel, the
seat should be tightened further.
Replacing Body Plug and Top Plate
1. With a new gasket, assemble body plug.
If this plug leaks, dilution will occur in the
lubricating oil.
2. Using a new gasket, assemble the top
plate or housing to the injector body with the
fillister head screws.
INSPECTION OF INJECTOR CUP
SPRAY HOLES: The accompanying illus-
trations show what to look for when inspect-
ing the injector cup. It is recommended that
a magnifying glass be used to give the cup
the inspection it should have, and to deter-
mine whether or not any of the conditions
illustrated on the opposite page.
196
INSERTING CHECK VALVE
SPRING AND STOP
CHECKING
INJECTOR
CHECK
VALVE
TRAVEL
ENGINE UNITS
REPAIR SECTION
Fine abrasives in fuel, such as dust, dirt,
etc., have a sand blasting effect and usually
cause the type of cup failure illustrated. This
can also be caused by the improper use of a
cup cleaning drill of the wrong size for the
spray hole. Such a condition is frequently
caused by breaking the drill off in the spray
hole and failing to remove it before putting
the injector back in the engine. The extreme
pressures that are created in the injector cup
have a tendency to start cutting out some
place around the drill, wearing the metal
away.
The center illustration shows the effect of
high acid or sulphur content in the fuel, as
well as the effect of excessive heat which
could be caused by an overload condition.
On the bottom of this cup at "A" the metal
has been eaten away.
The spray holes of the injector cup must
be kept free and open at all times. To con-
tinue to operate with the holes obstructed
would cause damage to the engine and loss
of power.
The cup is so designed that the preheated
charge of fuel is injected into the cylinder in
a fan shaped spray in order to bring the fuel
into contact with all available air.
The two lower illustrations show that in
case one injector cup spray hole is plugged
with dirt or metal, part of the available air
in the cylinder chamber is not in contact
with fuel and an over-rich mixture is present
in the other part of the cylinder. This causes
a falling off in power because of the slow
burning of the fuel. The additional burden is
then put on the remaining cylinders. To make
up for this loss of power in one cylinder, more
fuel is fed to the other cylinders than can be
burned with the available air. This excess fuel
runs down the cylinder walls, causing piston
rings to become gummy and to stick. This in
turn causes dilution of the lubricating oil in
the crankcase.
Warning: Never alter the size of the injec-
tor cup spray holes.
NEW INJECTOR CUP TIP
DEFECTIVE INJECTOR CUP TIP
DEFECTIVE INJECTOR CUP TIP
INJECTOR SPRAY DIAGRAM
SWTNIZW
INJECTOR SPRAY DIAGRAM
MlECW-IWMtl
nucui
CUMHIMf
197
REPAIR SECTION
CLEANING INJECTOR CUP
CLEANING INJECTOR CUP: Place the injector in the holding
fixture with the cup end up. Place the splined wrench (furnished with
each engine) on the injector cup, and, with a sharp rap of the hand
counter-clockwiseloosen the cup.
When starting these operations, it is very important to have a
separate clean container with cleaning solvent to wash all parts as they
are removed from the injector.
If the fine fuel spray holes of the injector cup become clogged, it
is usually caused by improper setting of the injector plunger, dirt in the
fuel, operating the engine at overload, or an overheated engine. A cup
cleaning kit is furnished, consisting of the file card brush "A", with two
openings in the brush end in which will be found a small drill, several
very small wire drills, and a pin vise to hold the small wire drills.
As indicated by "B", hold the injector cup upside down when using
the large drill so that any foreign matter will fall out of the cup.
Warning: Never use a drill other than the one furnished by the
Cummins Engine Company. This drill is ground to the proper taper to
fit the cup.
Before using the small wire drills that are furnished for cleaning
the spray holes, place the wire in the pin vise, letting it project about
1/16" from the end of the vise. With a very fine hone, "C", sharpen the
end of the drill to a wedge. This must be done every time a new drill
is used or the old one is broken. When a wire drill is cut off or broken,
198
burrs are always present to scratch the inside of the spray holes in the
cup. This will cause deflection of the spray and poor combustion.
Hold the cup in the fingers as shown by "D". Be sure to hold the
drill to the proper angle as indicated by "E". This will be at right angles
to the tip so that the drill will follow the hole as it was originally drilled.
Placing the injector cup in a good penetrating compound helps to
loosen the carbon in the holes and saves time in cleaning.
Do not use the cup cleaning drill except when the spray holes
become clogged. A .001" or .002" variation in the size of the spray holes
will cause considerable trouble.
ASSEMBLING INJECTOR CUP: Never assemble an injector
cup to the body unless a new cup gasket is used. A tool similar to the
one shown will make it possible to remove the gasket without damage
to the cup.
Place a new gasket in the cup, coating it with clean cup grease so
that it will stay in place while assembling to the injector body.
Caution: Use only gaskets furnished by the Cummins Engine Com-
pany. Old or improper type gaskets will result in leakage around the
cup and cause dilution of lubricating oil.
Remove the spring from the injector plunger. Lubricate the plunger
with clean oil and assemble it in place in the body. With the injector
body on the fixture and with the cup end
up, hold the plunger against the body and
screw the cup in place. The injector
plunger must seat squarely in the taper
of the injector cup to prevent the plunger
from sticking.
Inspection for Check Valve Leak
1. Remove the plunger, seal and spring
from the injector.
2. Inspect the plunger for carbon or
varnish caused from poor fuel and incor-
rect adjustment. Clean the plunger with
cleaning solvent and clean cloths.
3. Fill the injector plunger hole two-
thirds full of clean fuel oil.
4. Hold the injector spray tip against a
piece of clean rubber.
5. Insert the plunger in the body and
exert as much hand pressure on the plun-
ger as possible. If the check valve leaks,
it will show in the fuel inlet of the injector.
REMOVING INJECTOR
CUP GASKET
199
REPAIR
Inspecting Injector Fuel Spray
Partly fill the injector plunger hole with
clean fuel oil. Hold the injector in the
hand and push the fuel out with the in-
jector plunger while checking the fuel
spray at the injector tip. If six clean even
sprays can be seen, the injector cup is
properly cleaned.
NOTE: This check should be made
*' before the injector cup is removed. If
six clean even sprays can be seen, it is
needless to remove the cup unless the
injector has been removed due to dilution.
Assembling the Injector Plunger
1. Assemble the cover to the body with
the fillister head screws.
2. Assemble the plunger spring over
the plunger.
3. Inspect the plunger seal to see that
it is not damaged and assemble to the
plunger as shown.
4. Assemble the plunger retaining bail
over the plunger.
5. Never interchange injector plungers
and bodies. Injector plungers are not sold
separately as the fit required is so close
that it is impractical to make them
interchangeable.
200
REPA
OF ENGINE UNITS
THE FUEL PUMP
A suitable holding fixture should be provided to receive the fuel
pump. The fixture should revolve on a pivoted joint and the pump
should be bolted to it at the bracket holes on the main housing. The
separate pump units can then be removed or repaired from the main
housing.
Many of the working parts of the fuel pump are machined to
extremely close tolerances. Cleanliness is particularly important when
working on any part of the fuel pump. Most fuel pump trouble is caused
by dirt being carried into the working parts of the pump by dirty fuel
or by some other means.
Before attempting any work on the fuel pump, wash it on the
outside with a good solvent and, as the parts are removed, wash and dry
each one carefully. Then place them on a clean bench so they will not
be nicked or marred from contact with other parts.
Distributor
1. Disconnect and remove all the fuel lines from the pump. Drain
the float chamber.
2. Disconnect and remove the tachometer shaft cable, if used.
3. Six capscrews hold the distributor cover to the housing. Remove
every other one, and then remove the last three by loosening them one-
half turn at a time to maintain an even spring pressure and prevent the
distributor disc from catching in the distributor housing and scoring the
bearing surfaces.
201
4. Lift the disc cover up far enough to insert the hand under the
disc and remove the disc and cover together. The film of oil will hold
the disc to the cover until the hand can be inserted.
Caution: Never lay the face of the disc or cover on anything but
clean cloth or clean paper. Even a small invisible scratch would probably
cause future trouble. Be careful to prevent the metering plunger from
falling as the cover and disc is removed.
5. Wash each part in solvent as remov-
ed and dry with compressed air.
6. Remove the distributor spring from
the housing.
7. After removing the cap screws and
the Allen screw that hold the distributor
housing to the main housing, lift the dis-
tributor housing, shaft and gear from the
main housing.
8. The metering plunger barrel can be
removed from the distributor housing by
unscrewing the retaining nut. Also remove
the copper gasket. In repairing this and all
other units of the pump, it is well to lay
out the parts in an orderly fashion as they
are removed to insure their proper re-
placement during assembly operations.
9. Pull or press the gear from the dis-
tributor shaft, being careful to support the
gear close to the shaft to prevent warping
the gear. Remove the Woodruff key from
the shaft.
10. Tap the lower end of the distribu-
tor shaft on a block of wood and remove
the shaft and collar from the housing.
11. Remove the double ball bearing
from the lower end of the housing.
12. Remove the priming valve from
the inside of the housing and check the
point to see that it has not been broken
from overtightening. If it has been broken,
remove all the particles from the housing.
If the valve seat has been damaged, the
distributor housing must be replaced.
202
REPAIR SECTION
13. Replace the priming valve and
tighten the packing nut so the valve turns
normally by finger pressure.
14. Remove the distributor check
valve screw, spring and ball. Clean and
replace them in the housing.
15- Inspect the distributor drive collar
and shaft. If they are worn in the thrust
bearing fuel will leak by the shaft to fill
the main housing and run out the overflow. If the shaft is badly worn,
it can be detected by "shake" or excessive play in the thrust bearing.
In that case the shaft must be replaced.
16. Now follows one of the most particular operations in the re-
building or repairing of the fuel pump, that of replacing the thrust
bearing. It must never be pressed from the housing unless inspection
shows that it is worn or scored. If it is excessively worn in the shaft
hole, it will be necessary to press it from the housing, from the bottom
side, and replace it with a new one.
17. Clean the housing thoroughly and check to see that there are
no burrs on the shoulders of the bearing. Be very careful to press the
new bearing in straight to avoid cutting. Protect the face of the bearing
with a piece of leather between the bearing and the tool.
18. It will be necessary to ream the new thrust bearing with a
line reamer to .8125" while supporting the bearing with proper guides
to insure a straight hole.
19. The face of the thrust bearing must be refaced, after it is pressed
into the housing, square with the shaft hole and absolutely smooth. Never
cut away more than the .001" to .002" needed to cut off the high spots
or "clean up".
20. The inner diameter of the thrust face should be .0002" lower
than the outer diameter, or a difference of one-half degree. Check with
Prussian blue between the thrust bearing and the collar. If the bearing
has been properly faced, it will be indi-
cated by an even wiping of the Prussian
blue around the outer two-thirds diameter
of the thrust bearing.
21. Clean all shavings from the hous-
ing with compressed air.
22. Inspect the ball bearing from the
lower end of the shaft and replace it if
worn.
REAMER
203
ENGINE REPAIR
23. Assemble the distributor, drive shaft
and collar assembly to the housing and press
the gear in place over the key. Use a IVi"
12 point socket over the drive pins in the
collar while pressing the gear in place.
24. Inspect the metering plunger and bar-
rel for wear or scratches. If either part is worn,
it will result in a loss of pressure and inaccu-
rate metering to the injectors. Replace them
if worn. Always use a new copper gasket on
the end of the barrel when replacing.
25. Place the distributor housing tempo-
rarily in place on top the main housing. Turn
the drive shaft to see that the tachometer drive
shaft is running true.
26. If the distributor disc bushing or bear-
ing ring is distorted, it will be necessary to
replace it. Press a new bushing into the
housing. To check the clearance between the
disc and bushing, place the distributor disc on
the drive pin without the thrust spring. If
the disc does not rotate freely in the bushing,
it will be necessary to use a bearing scraper
to relieve the bushing. A smooth bearing
must be maintained and clearance held to
.003". Check with a feeler gauge.
27. If the disc or cover show scored marks,
or if they are badly worn, it will be neces-
sary to replace them with a new or reground,
disc and cover set. Regrinding and lapping
is strictly a factory operation because the
tolerance required is so close that it is impos-
sible to maintain except with very special
equipment.
28. New discs and covers are supplied only
in pairs. If the old disc and cover are to be
replaced, the new ones should be carefully
and thoroughly washed in solvent and all
passages blown out with compressed air.
29. Place the disc thrust spring on the
collar and locate the rotary disc in posi-
204
ENGINE REPAIR
tion on the driving pins. (This cannot be
put on wrong due to one pin being offset.)
Fill the holes in the distributor disc with
a medium light grade of clean lubricating
oil. Also oil the face of the distributor
cover. A new gasket of proper design and
thickness must be used each time between
the distributor top and the housing. Be
sure to properly index the holes in the gasket and the housing.
30. It will be necessary to compress the distributor spring by push-
ing on the distributor tachometer guide to start the cap screws that hold
the distributor top in place.
31. When all the capscrews are started by hand, tighten each one
alternately, one-half turn at a time, until the cover is down against the
gasket and distributor housing. If the distributor cover is not tightened
down evenly, it will catch the distributor disc bushing and push it down
on one side. This would break the seal between the distributor top and
disc, and after starting the engine, the flow of fuel to the metering pump
would be disrupted.
32. Remove the distributor assembly from the main housing and
lay it aside until the other units are repaired.
Gear Pumps
REMOVAL: 1. Remove the cam rocker lever spring retainer and
spring from the side of the fuel pump housing. This is the larger of the
two hexagon head screws on the outer side of the housing.
2. Remove the four capscrews holding the gear pump bodies to
the main housing. (Do not remove the three nuts from bolts at this
time.)
3. Pry the gear pump assembly from the dowel pins and, while
holding to the pressure chamber and the idling control lever, pull the
gear pump assembly from the main housing.
DISASSEMBLY: Do not disturb the gear pumps unless the pump
pressure is below 60 pounds of pressure on the gauge at idling speed.
For purposes of identification, the gear pump supplying fuel from the
fuel tank to the float chamber will be designated as the No. 1 pump.
The gear pump supplying fuel from the float chamber to the distributor
and metering pump will be designated as the No. 2 pump.
1. If necessary to disassemble, remove the three bolts holding the
two pump bodies together.
2. Tap the bolts from the bodies with a bronze punch. The No. 2
body should slip off, leaving the gears on the shafts with the spacer plate.
3. Remove the fillister head screw from the front of the No. 1 body
205
REPAIR SECTION
and slip the body from the shaft, leaving
the gears on the shaft with the spacer
plate.
4. Pull or drive the idler shaft from
the gears, being very careful not to lose
the oil seal and washer between the spacer
plate and the No. 2 pump gear.
5. Place the No. 1 pump drive gear in
a vise fitted with copper jaws, gripping
the gear by the teeth and tightening the vise only enough to hold.
6. Tap lightly on the slotted end of the shaft to drive it out of the
gear. Pull the Woodruff key from the shaft.
Caution: Any other method of removing this gear will cause the
small Woodruff key to be driven through the spacer plate, making the
spacer plate unfit for further use.
7. Slide the gear and shaft out of the spacer plate, being careful
not to damage the oil seal and washer between the gear and spacer plate.
8. Press the gear away from the lock ring to remove it from the
pump shaft. Remove the Woodruff key and lock ring from the shaft.
9. Remove the idling control lever after taking out the cotter pin
and washer on the end of the shaft. Check the idler lever shaft to see
that it is tight.
10. Unscrew the pressure chamber and remove the chamber and
gasket.
11. Remove the pressure regulator valve and take out the spring
and check ball.
12. Remove the fuel supply check valve housing by screwing out
the check valve seat.
13. Place the emergency control valve end of the housing in a vise
and unscrew the check valve seat. Remove the housing from the vise
and take out the check valve, spring and guide.
ASSEMBLY: In repairing and rebuilding the gear pumps, the
working dimensions given must be adhered to closely to assure satis-
factory results.
1. Wash all the disassembled parts thoroughly in cleaning solvent
and dry with clean compressed air.
2. Check all the gears for burrs on the
teeth and, if present, remove them with a
small hone.
3. Place the No. 1 gears in their pock-
ets and check the clearance between the
gears and pockets. If the clearance is as
much as .004", it will be necessary to use
new gears. Recheck with new gears and
206
ENGINE REPAIR
ASSEMBLING GEAR SEALS
if the clearance is still as much as .004",
it will be necessary to replace both the
gears and the body. Follow the same pro-
cedure for the No. 2 gears and pockets.
4. Place the No. 1 gears in their
pockets again to check the depth of the
pockets. Place a straight edge across the
gears and body. The straight edge should
touch both gears and body. If the gears are more than .001" low
in their pockets, it will be necessary to remove the gears and accurately
lap the face of the body on a good lapping plate until the gears fit flush
with the body.
Warning: Wash the body thoroughly of all lapping compound and
dry with air before fitting the gears to the body.
5. Follow the same procedure for the No. 2 gears and pockets.
6. Assemble the No. 2 pump gear, Woodruff key and snap wire.
Press the gear over the snap wire into the recess on the gear.
NOTE: Inspect the milled end of the drive shaft where it engages
the fuel pump main shaft, and if it shows any wear, replace it with a
new one.
Caution must be used when assembling new gears to the spacer
plate and shaft that the shaft seals are assembled properly. These seals
are assembled on the No. 2 side of the spacer and with the seal washers
working against the No. 2 pump. The No. 2 pump is the one with the
one-half inch gears.
8. Assemble the gears to the spacer plate.
9. Inspect the drive shaft oil retainer in the No. 1 body to see
that it is in good condition. When assembling the No. 1 body on the
shaft, care must be used to see that this retainer is not damaged.
10. When assembling the No. 1 gear body, use only a .0015"
body gasket. Brush a thin coat of shellac on the spacer plate gasket
surface only. Assemble the gasket in the proper position, always being
careful not to get the shellac in the gear pockets and fuel passages. Put
a thin coat of shellac on the gasket.
11. With the No. 1 body on the shaft against the gasket, insert the
fillister head screw.
12. Shellac a gasket to the No. 2 side of the spacer and place the
body over the gears in position.
13. Insert the mounting capscrews
through both pump bodies and attach the
3/8" nuts to the protruding ends. Draw
these nuts up to pull the pump bodies to-
gether, at the same time turning the drive
shaft to see that the pump gears continue
to turn freely. If necessary, tap the edges
of the bodies to free the gears.
TUBE
207
REPAIR SECTION
14. If a new body or spacer has been
used, it will be necessary to ream the two
dowel holes to .375". Insert the two
threaded dowel bolts and attach the nuts.
15. Reinstall the idling lever, washer
and cotter pin. Drop the check ball into
the housing and seat into place with a
small copper punch.
16. If the pressure regulator shows wear on the lower part around
the by-pass holes, it will be necessary to replace with a new regulator
or low pressure will result at slow speeds.
NOTE: It is sometimes necessary to add 1/64" washers below
the pressure regulator spring to increase the spring pressure. One
washer adds approximately 10 pounds fuel pressure.
17. Place the pressure regulator spring in the housing.
18. Slide the pressure regulator into place with the point down
toward the check ball. Check to be sure the regulator works freely.
NOTE: If the pressure regulator sticks and remains open, it
will cause a drop in the fuel pressure. If it sticks and remains closed,
it will cause excessive fuel pressure.
19. Screw the pressure chamber into the body, making sure that
the gasket is in good condition
Float Chamber
DISASSEMBLY: 1. Remove the two cap screws holding the
float chamber to the fuel pump housing. Remove the float'chamber
from the housing.
2. Remove the two cap screws holding
the top plate to the float chamber and
remove the plate and float assembly
from the float chamber.
ntssuii CHAW
3. Remove the nut and washer from
the float bearing pin and remove the pin.
This allows the float, float stop and float
valve to come free.
4. With a small wrench, remove the
float valve seat from the top plate. Be
careful not to lose the gasket under the
seat.
5. If necessary, remove the check
valve seat at the main fuel inlet, being
careful not to lose the ball check.
208
CROSS SECTION OF FUEL PUMP
ASSEMBLY: 1. Install the check valve and seat at the main
fuel inlet, if removed.
2. Place the small dowel pin in the float chamber top plate, mak-
ing sure that it is tight enough not to drop out.
3. Place the gasket in position on the top plate.
4. Place the float bearing bracket in position on the dowel pin.
5. Install the float valve seat with a new gasket and tighten
securely.
6. Make sure the float valve is free of burrs and in good condition.
Drop it into place and seat with a copper punch.
7. Place the float in position and insert the bearing pin. Place
the float stop in position and assemble lock washer and nut to the
bearing pin.
8. Make sure the float and valve are absolutely free and that the
float contacts the head of the valve, holding it firmly on the seat in
closed position. Otherwise the fuel will overflow at the bottom of the
pump.
9. Assemble the float chamber to the top plate, making sure
that the float has adequate clearance in the chamber.
209
FUEL PUMP FLOAT
CHAMBER AND BY-PASS
REPAIR SECTION
10. Assemble the float chamber with
a new gasket to the fuel pump housing
and bolt securely in place.
11. Install and tighten the drain plug.
12. The by-pass valve spring must
exert enough pressure to insure a supply
of fuel to the float chamber, but if it is
too strong, the fuel will overflow at the
main housing. Assemble the by-pass valve,
spring and retainer.
Governor Unit
DISASSEMBLY: 1. Remove the hex nut and lockwasher from
the drive gear end of the main shaft, and remove the drive gear with a
suitable puller.
2. Remove the three cap screws and lockwashers that hold the
governor housing to the main housing, and take off the governor housing.
3. Using an end wrench, disconnect the small ball joint screw
from the governor control rod.
4. Remove the governor weights by first tapping the weight pins
far enough to one side to permit grinding or filing off the riveted heads.
Drive the pins out, taking care not to damage the small ball bearings
in the weights.
5. Pull the governor yoke from the main shaft.
6. Remove the. governor collar and rod assembly, the spring
assembly and the ball bearing shield from the main shaft.
7. Remove the four capscrews from the governor ball bearing
shield. Tap the governor and main shaft out of the main housing.
8. Inspect the governor yoke bushing in the governor housing.
The inside diameter should be 1.626" to 1.627". If it is worn oversize,
or scored, the bushing must be replaced and the new one reamed to
1.626".
9. Clean the oil hole in the governor housing that leads to the
yoke bushing.
10. Remove the snap ring that holds the governor sleeve collar
and the thrust washer, and remove the sleeve collar and thrust washer
from the spring assembly.
11. The governor spring can be removed by compressing the
spring and taking out the split lock ring in the governor sleeve.
FHB| 12. Hold the main shaft in a vise with
1 copper jaws so the keyways of the shaft
I are to the top and remove the keys with
'side cutters or with a chisel.
M| 13. Remove the snap ring from the
e ,! /^ I main shaft.
14. Pull the governor sleeve tube
from the shaft.
210
15. Remove the lock ring and press the cam ball bearing from
the shaft.
16. Inspect the fuel pump cam. If it is worn or rippled it will be
necessary to replace the cam. Place the main shaft in an arbor press
with the distributor drive gear teeth resting on copper parallels or on
a piece of hard wood. Press the cam from the main shaft.
Main Housing
DISASSEMBLY AND SERVICE: 1. Use a small wrench to
disconnect the ball joint on thq short vertical lever link from the
vertical lever.
2. Insert a socket wrench through the hole in the top of the housing
to loosen the capscrew which holds the plunger lever shaft and plunger
lever pin in place.
3. Using a small punch, indent one expansion plug and then drive
through the expansion plug on the opposite end of the plunger lever
shaft until the first expansion plug falls out. Drive the shaft from the
opposite end, being careful not to damage the bushings.
4. Lift the vertical lever assembly from the housing.
5. Remove the vertical lever spring and the capscrew in the
plunger lever.
Warning: Place the parts on clean paper or cloth only.
6. Push the pin from the plunger lever, making sure not to lose any
of the 56 needle bearings in which it is mounted. If the plunger lever is
placed on a 1VV socket during this operation, the socket will catch the
needle bearings.
7. Use a small punch and a socket to drive the pin from the
vertical lever, roller, making sure not to lose any of the 22 needle
bearings.
Warning: Keep these long needle bearings separate from the 56
removed from the plunger lever pin.
8. Inspect the vertical lever, pin, roller and roller pin. If they
are worn, replace them. If parts are worn or pitted, poor governor action
will result.
9. It is always best to replace the needle bearings if the pins
and lever are found to be corrugated or pitted.
10. Spread a clean cloth on the work bench and on it place the
parts of the vertical lever to be assembled.
Place the roller on the index finger and
put a piece of 3/8" rod, 7/16" long, in
the hole. Fill the hole with 22 long
needle bearings.
11. Place the roller pin through one
pin hole in the vertical lever until it is
flush on the inside. Insert the roller with
21I
REPAIR SECTION
the plug and needle bearings in position
and push the roller pin through the roller.
This will cause the small plug to fall
out on the opposite side.
12. Lock the pin in position by rivet-
ing the copper rivet into the grooves on
both sides of the vertical lever, and file
flush with the sides of the vertical lever.
13. When assembling the plunger lever pin, use a piece of 5/a"
inside diameter copper tubing with a slot to receive the needle bearings.
Place the plunger lever between the arms of the vertical lever in position.
Caution: The vertical lever must be assembled to the plunger
lever so the flat side will be next to the ball joint link to insure the
roller of the vertical lever link engaging properly in the cam rocker
radius.
14. Tap the plunger lever pin through the vertical lever and
plunger lever, leaving the needle bearing race open on one side. Place
the slotted tubing over the pin and insert 28 short needle bearings.
Tap the plunger lever shaft through far enough to allow the opposite
bearing race to be filled with the same number of needle bearings.
Tap the plunger into position and turn the groove in the pin to match
the cap screw hole 'in the plunger lever. Run the cap screw down
loosely to hold the pin in place.
15. Inspect the plunger lever shaft
bushing in the main housing for wear. If
worn, replace in proper position to index
with the oil holes in the housing. Ream
to .750".
16. Lay the vertical lever aside until
ready to install in the main housing
later.
17. Remove the cam rocker lever from
the housing.
18. Mount the lever firmly in a vise
between copper jaws.
19. Remove the rivet pin with a small
punch.
20. Using a small brass rod as a driver,
remove the roller pin.
Caution: It will not be necessary to
remove the stop pins as they never en-
counter wear. Removal of these pins will
result in serious damage to the pump
and the engine.
212
ENGINE REPAIR
21. Inspect the cam rocker lever for
wear on the ground radius where the
roller operates. If the lever is rough, it
will cause bad governor action and there-
fore must be replaced.
22. Inspect the roller pin for wear
and replace if worn.
23. Inspect the roller and replace it,
if worn.
24. Start the roller pin into the lever, making sure the oil hole in
the pin is open.
25. Assemble the roller in place and tap the pin through the
roller, indexing the lubricating hole in the pin with the hole in the
lever.
26. Peen the roller pin rivet in place.
27. Make sure the roller is free and has .006"-.008" end thrust
to allow it to turn freely under tension. If the roller should stick, it
would cause excessive wear and faulty governor action.
28. Inspect the cam rocker lever bushings in the main housing
and in the No. 1 gear pump body. Replace if worn. When replacing
the main housing bushings, be sure the oil hole is lined up properly
for lubrication. Ream to .8125" with a bottom reamer. Ream the
bushings in the No. 1 gear pump body to .625" with a bottom reamer.
29. Drive out the rivet from the fuel control lever that locates it
in place on the serrated shaft.
30. Loosen the capscrew and tap the fuel control lever from the
eccentric shaft.
31. Remove the cotter pin from the collar with a pair of diagonal
cutters and remove the collar while working from inside the main
housing.
32. Turn the eccentric shaft until the governor lever can be lifted
from the eccentric shaft.
33. Lift the eccentric shaft from the housing.
34. Inspect the eccentric shaft bushing in the main housing. Re-
place if worn and ream to .5625". Remove the burrs around the top
and bottom .edges with a scraper.
35. Inspect the governor lever bushing for wear. If worn, replace
it and ream to .500".
36. Inspect the ball joints in the vertical lever link and in the
governor lever link for wear. Replace them if they are worn or pitted
to prevent bad governor action.
37. Inspect the eccentric shaft for wear. If worn out of round
replace with a new shaft.
ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTMENTS: 1. Install the eccentric
shaft.
213
REPA
SECTION
2. Install the governor lever as-
sembled with the vertical lever link and
the governor lever linkto the eccentric
shaft.
3. Assemble the collar over the gov-
ernor lever and insert a new cotter pin.
Make sure that there is no more than
'.002" thrust on the governor lever when
the assembly is completed, and that the
governor lever works freely on the ec-
centric shaft.
4. Install the cam rocker lever as-
sembly in the housing.
5. Assemble .the gear pressure pump
assembly to the main housing to make
the test for the cam rocker lever assembly.
Be sure to use the proper gasket between
the main housing and the gear pump
housing. Bolt the gear pump in position
to the body.
6. Check the cam rocker lever to see
that it rocks freely and that it has at
least .006" end thrust. If the lever does
not rock freely, it will affect the fuel
pump delivery. Scrape the bushings
slightly, if necessary.
7. Remove the gear pump assembly.
8. Place the vertical lever in position in the housing. Insert the
plunger lever shaft.
9: Be careful to properly index the oil holes on the plunger lever
shaft and bushings.
10. It is necessary that the vertical lever and roller be spaced
in the center of the cam rocker lever race for the proper working
position. To space the vertical lever it may be necessary to shift the
plunger lever shaft bushings.
Caution: Be sure the needle bearings have not been shitted.
11. Tighten the lock screw with a
socket wrench. Test the action of the
plunger lever. It should have a side thrust
of .001".
12. Insert new expansion plugs on each
end of the plunger lever shaft. Use a
large, flat end punch to wedge the plugs
in place. A good sealing compound should
be used on the edges of the expansion
plugs.
CROSS-SECTION OF FUEL
PUMP MAIN HOUSING
214
ENGINE REPAIR
13. Check the position of the vertical
lever and the roller in the cam rocker lever
race to see that it has not shifted while in-
serting the expansion plugs. Check to see that
the plunger lever and vertical lever work
freely.
14. Place the vertical lever spring in
position.
15. Assemble the vertical lever link with
a new lock washer to the vertical lever.
Governor Unit
ASSEMBLY: 1. Inspect the ball bear-
ing on the gear pump end of the main shaft
for wear or "shake" and replace if it is worn.
2. Inspect the gear pump drive pin. If it is worn at all, re-
place by driving the old pin out and, while inserting the new one,
line it up in place and test with a gear pump drive shaft before
peening the ends of the pin to tighten. Clean the shaft of any burrs
or scored marks.
Caution: This pin must fit freely in the gear pump drive shaft
slot to insure proper alignment and prevent scoring 'in the gear pump.
3. Lubricate the shaft with heavy oil
where the cam fits the shaft. Be sure the
key is in place for the cam. Start the cam,
with the distributor drive gear toward the
gear pump end of the shaft, over the drive
gear end of the shaft.
4. Line up the keyway and key and press
the shaft into the cam and gear all the way
to the stop.
5. Inspect the large ball bearing for wear
and, if worn, replace with a new one. Press
the bearing into place with the sealed side
next to the cam. Lock in place with the lock
ring.
6. Assemble the governor sleeve tube to
the main shaft. Assemble the lock ring to the
shaft. Insert a new key in the slot of the main
shaft.
215
REPAIR SECTION
7. Before assembling the maximum speed
spring to the governor sleeve, it is very impor-
tant to have the proper matched -weight and
spring combinations. Always keep the
spring and weight combinations together, also
the spacer gaskets, when used.
8. Assemble the maximum speed spring
to the yoke sleeve. Assemble the spring sleeve
to the yoke sleeve making sure it will work
freely on the shaft. Compress the maximum
speed spring in an arbor press and assemble
the lock rings.
9. Assemble the control rod and sleeve
collar to the yoke sleeve and place the thrust
washer in position. Secure the assembly with
the lock ring.
10. Check the governor control rod bushing for wear by inserting
the governor control rod in the bushing. If any "shake" is apparent
it must be replaced and line reamed to .5625".
11. Assemble the governor shaft to the main housing.
12. Lubricate all parts with clean oil and assemble the governor
sleeve unit over the tube on the main shaft. The governor sleeve and
control rod must work freely on the shaft and in the housing or
poor governor action will result.
Caution: Always have the gear pump
assembled to the main housing when making
this check.
13. Inspect the governor weight bushings
in the governor yoke. Wear in these bushings
can be checked with a new weight pin. If
worn, replace and ream to .256".
14. Place the tofque spring in the gov-
ernor yoke with the prongs of the spring
toward the open end of the governor yoke and
the idling spring in place over the torque
spring.
15. Remove the main shaft and governor
assembly from the main housing.
216
16. Assemble the governor yoke over the key on the main shaft
and press the yoke over the shaft in place.
17. Inspect the working radius on the governor weights for wear.
If flattened or worn, replace with new weights having the same number
as stamped on the old weights. This assures the same governed speed.
Inspect the ball bearings in the weights. If they are pitted or worn install
new bearings with the shielded side out.
18. Attach the weight assemblies to the governor yoke with new
weight pins. When the weights are properly assembled the working
radius must not ride on the governor sleeve, and the turning fins must
be free in the slot in the governor sleeve. Peen each end of the governor
weight pins.
Final Assembly and Adjustments
1. Using a new .003" gasket, install the main shaft with the gov-
ernor assembly in place on the main housing and secure the ball
bearing shield with cap screws and lockwashers.
2. Assemble the link to the governor
control rod.
3. While pushing down on the top of the
eccentric shaft with a screw driver from inside
the main housing, assemble the control lever
to the eccentric shaft in stop position.
4. Turn the stop screw in, to the stop
on the housing, and lock it in place with the
jam nut.
5. If a new control lever or eccentric
is being used it will be necessary to drill a new
pin hole in the lever and shaft.
6. To set the maximum fuel setting stop
and avoid any stress on the governor and fuel
control mechanism, proceed as follows:
a. Use a small wooden wedge under
the governor weights and compress the
idling spring.
b. Open the hand control to the max-
imum fuel delivery position and turn the
adjusting screw in to the stop on the
housing.
c. Give the screw one and one-half
more complete turns from this point and
lock in place with the jam nut.
217
REPAIR SECTION
7. Assemble the governor housing to the
main housing, using a new gasket in proper
position, and secure with lockwashers and cap
screws.
8. Guide the drive gear over the key on
the main shaft, and press against the end of
the main shaft while resting the drive gear
on the arbor press plate.
9. Assemble the gear pressure pump to
the main housing, making sure that the right
gasket is used.
10. Assemble the cam rocker lever spring,
gasket and spring retainer.
11. Set the timing mark on the drive gear
to match the timing mark on the governor
housing.
12. Set the timing mark in the distributor
housing to line up with the inspection hole.
13. Install the metering plunger link,
spring and metering plunger in place on the
plunger lever.
14. Place a gasket of the proper thickness
on top of the fuel pump main housing. Assem-
ble the distributor housing to the main hous-
ing while carefully guiding the metering plun-
ger into position in the plunger barrel. Mesh
the gears by turning the drive shaft.
15. The thickness of the gasket between
the distributor housing and the main housing
determines the gear lash of the distributor
drive gear. The distributor drive gear lash
should be .004". This can be checked by rock-
ing the main shaft gear by hand. Turn the
distributor gear one complete rotation, check-
ing at various positions.
16. Connect the fuel line from the distribu-
tor to the emergency control valve.
17. Install the fuel lines from the gear
pump and the main fuel inlet to the priming
pump.
218
REPAIR OF ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
GENERATOR
The generator can be disassembled, serviced and reassembled as
outlined in the following instructions.
COIL ASSEMBLY
MAIN BRUSH PLATE
ASSEMBLY
CAPSCREW-^1
THUD BRUSH PLATE
ASSEMBLY
CROSS-SECTION DRAWING
OF GENERATOR
POLE SHOE SCREW
Disassembling Generator
DISASSEMBLY INTO MAIN SUB-ASSEMBLIES: Loosen cover band screw
and remove cover band. Note relationship of leads and brushes.
Disconnect leads to the insulated and third brush holders by removing one
each screw and lockwasher. This disconnects lead from "A" terminal stud and lead
from field winding.
Remove commutator end frame by removing six attaching screws and lock-
washers and detaching commutator end frame from field frame. It may be necessary
to loosen the end frame with a soft hammer. The collar is pressed on the
armature shaft and need not be removed unless to replace.
Detach field frame from drive end frame by removing six attaching screws
and lockwashers. Use soft hammer to loosen.
Remove pulley nut and lockwasher by placing armature in soft jaws of vise.
With the armature still in soft jaws of vise, use puller to remove pulley
from splined armature shaft.
Remove drive end frame from armature. While it normally slips off fairly
easy, it may have to be pressed off in an arbor press. Remove two collars,
one from each side of drive and frame. (These collars are different and should
be marked in some way for correct reassembly.)
DISASSEMBLY OF DRIVE END FRAME: Detach bearing retainer plate
and gasket by removing five screws and lockwashers. The felt washer and felt
washer retainer are staked in place on the bearing retainer.
Remove ball bearing from end frame. While this may normally be done with
a few light taps, it may have to be pressed out in an arbor press. A felt washer
and felt washer retainer are staked in place in the drive end frame on the pulley
side of the bearing which serves with the other felt washer to seal the bearing and
oil passage.
Remove oiler and pipe plug from opposite ends of oil passage. Wash out
passage and oiler and dry with compressed air.
219
REPAIR SECTION
DISASSEMBLY OF COMMUTATOR END FRAME: Remove two round
head screws, lockwashers, and plain washers holding the main brush plate to the
commutator end frame. The two hold down screws, lockwashers and plain washer
should be' detached. This entirely frees the third brush plate and main brush
plate from the commutator end frame.
Remove the five screws and lockwashers which hold the ball bearing retainer
plate and gasket in place. The felt washer and felt washer retainer are staked in
place in the ball bearing retainer plate.
Remove ball bearing from end frame. It may be necessary to use a bearing
puller.
Disassemble the brush assemblies as follows: Remove one each pigtail lead
holding screw and lockwasher from each brush holder and lift out brushes. Detach
from each brush holder assembly one each round head screw and lockwasher,
brush holder stud, nut, and lockwasher. This completely dismantles the brush
rigging. The brush holder side of plate should be identified for correct reassembly.
Remove oiler and pipe plug from opposite ends of oil passage. Wash out
passage and oiler and dry with compressed air.
DISASSEMBLY OF FIELD FRAME: Detach terminal studs by removing
from each terminal stud two each nuts and one each lockwasher, plain washer, and
insulation washer. The "A" terminal stud may be removed from frame, together
with insulating bushing and washer, and main brush lead. The "F" terminal Mud
is soldered to the field winding lead.
Remove field windings by removing eight pole shoe screws (pole shoe screw-
driver), pole shoes, and windings. Stud and clip on field winding leads may be
unsoldered and replaced, if required. Be careful in handling field windings to
avoid damaging leads or insulation.
Generator Inspection
GENERAL: After disassembly, all parts should be cleaned, examined, and
defective parts replaced. The procedure of cleaning and inspecting parts is given
in following paragraphs.
ARMATURE: Do not clean the armature by a degreasing method, since
this would damage the insulation and might ruin the armature. Wipe with a clean
cloth slightly dampened with carbon tetrachloride or similar solvent. If commu-
tator is rough, out of round, worn, has high mica, filled sjots, or is burned, it
must be turned down in a lathe and the mica undercut. Make cut no deeper
than necessary. Minimum diameter of commutator should be 2.80 inch. If it is
necessary to turn the commutator below this diameter, discard the armature.
Undercut mica 1/32 inch. Armature may be checked for open, grounded, or short
circuits as follows:
1. GroundCheck with test lamp and test points from the commutator to
the armature shaft or lamination. If the lamp lights, indicating a ground, and
if the ground is not readily apparent and repairable, the armature must be replaced.
2. OpenSome bars badly burned, with other bars fairly clean, indicates an
open circuited armature. The open will usually be found at the commutator
riser bars and is often a result of generator overloadthe consequence of in
excessively high generator output resulting from a too advanced third brush
adjustment. If the bars are not too badly burned, the armature may sometimes
be saved by resoldering the leads in the riser bars with rosin flux, turning the
commutator down and undercutting the mica. Make sure the third brush ii
adjusted according to specifications.
220
3. ShortA shorted armature may be detected on a growler. The growler
is a strong electromagnet connected to a source of alternating current. When
shorted armature is placed on the growler, and a hacksaw blade held above the
shorted coils in the armature, the blade will be alternately attracted to and repelled
from the armature, causing the blade to buzz against the armature. Before dis-
carding an armature testing shorted, inspect the commutator slots carefully, since
copper or brush dust sometimes collects in the slots and shorts adjacent bars.
FIELDS: The fields should not be cleansed by any degreasing method, since
this would damage the insulation and might ruin the windings. Clean by wiping
with a clean, dry cloth. Be careful in handling the winding assembly to avoid
breaking or weakening the connecting lead between the windings. Test the field
current draw by connecting a 12-volt battery and an ammeter in series with
the four fields. The current draw should be 1.39-1.47 amperes at 12 volts. Replace
windings if they do not meet specifications. The field insulation should be in
good condition. If it is charred or worn away so that the wire is exposed, it is
sometimes possible to rewrap the windings with insulating tape and paint them
with insulating compound. All soldered connections should be made with rosin
flux solder. If the terminal stud or clip is damaged, replace.
BRUSHES: If the main brushes are worn down to % inch and third brush
is 3/fc inch (original length 1 3/32, third brush 1 inch), replace. Make sure that
the pigtail leads are firmly in place in the brushes and that the clip is properly
soldered to the lead. New brushes may be seated with a brush seating stone. The
brush seating stone is an abrasive material which, held against a revolving com-
mutator, disintegrates, carries under the brushes, and seats them in a second or two.
BRUSH SPRINGS: The brush springs should have sufficient tension to
provide the proper pressure between the brushes and commutator after the unit is
assembled. This may be checked by assembling the brushes, brush springs, and
arms to the commutator end frame, placing the commutator in position in the end
frame and then checking with a spring gauge the amount of pull required to raise
the brush arms from the brushes. Replace springs if tension is not correct.
BEARINGS: If the bearings appear to roll roughly, or sloppily, replace them.
BRUSH RINGS: If the brush rings, brush arm studs, brush holders, are
damaged (bent, warped, cracked, insulation burned, etc.) replace.
Assembling Generotor
ASSEMBLY OF FIELD FRAME ASSEMBLY: Place field winding assembly
with pole shoes in field frame. Insert pole shoe spreader and tighten shoes against
frame. Install and tighten eight pole shoe screws with pole shoe screwdriver. Wind-
ing with stud soldered to lead must be so placed that stud can be inserted through
hole in frame.
Insert stud on winding lead, with insulating washer and bushing, through
"F" terminal hole in frame and secure with insulating washer, plain washer, lock
washer and two nuts. Place stud with lead attached and insulating washer and
bushing, through "A" terminal hole in frame and secure with insulating washer,
plain washer, lock washer, and two nuts.
ASSEMBLY OF COMMUTATOR END FRAME: Reinstall oiler and pipe
plug in opposite ends of oil passage.
221
BRUSH
^COMMUTATOR
END FRAME
EXPLODED DRAWING OF GENERATOR
CHAIN
COUPLING
Assemble the insulated main brush assembly to main brush plate and insulated
third brush assembly to third brush plate as follows:
a. Slide spring on brush arm sleeve and hook in notch on arm.
b. Push stud through side of brush holder into space sleeve, through
brush arm, and into bushing in other side of holder.
c. Place brush terminal bracket, space washer, and insulating washer on
threaded end of stud. (The third brush assembly does not use the space
washer.)
d. Insert stud through proper hole in plate end place on stud, one small
insulating bushing washer, followed by one insulating washer (2 holelarge),
one space washer (2 holelarge), lock washer, and nut. Draw nut finger tight.
e. Place small insulating bushing washer in the other brush mounting
screw hole of the plate and swing brush terminal bracket, space washers and
insulating washers into position.
f. Line up holes in holder, plate, and washers. Insert and fasten screw with
lockwasher.
Assemble the grounded brush assembly to the main brush plate as follows:
a. Slide spring on brush arm sleeve and hook in notch on arm.
b. Push stud through side of brush holder into space sleeve, and brush
arm into bushing in other side of holder.
c. Place brush terminal bracket and two space washers on threaded end
of stud.
d. Insert stud through small hole, of a group of two holes, in brush plate.
e. Place space washer, lock washer and nut on stud and draw finger tight.
f. Swing brush terminal bracket into place so that holes align in
bracket, washers, and brush plate.
g. Secure with screw and lockwasher.
Install ball bearing in end frame.
Install the ball bearing retainer plate, including felt washer and its cup
retainer, and gasket to the end frame with the five attaching screws and lock
washers.
Attach the main brush plate assembly to the end frame with two screws, lock
washers, and plain washers. Attach the third brush plate to the main brush plate
and end frame with the two hold down screws, lock washers and plain washers
(The upper hold down screw uses a spring washer instead of lock washer).
Install brushes and attach pigtail leads to brush holders with one each screw
and lock washer.
222
REPAIR SECTION
ASSEMBLY OF DRIVE END FRAME: 1. Install oiler and pipe plug in
opposite ends of oil passage.
2. Install ball bearing in drive end frame. It may be necessary to use an
arbor press.
3. Attach ball bearing retainer (which includes felt washer and felt washer
cup retainer) and gasket to end frame with the five attaching screws and lock-
washers.
ASSEMBLY OF GENERATOR: 1. Place the correct collar on the armature
shaft and slip drive end frame on shaft. It may be necessary to use an arbor press.
2. Place the collar and pulley on the splined shaft, and with the armature in
the soft jaws of a vise, secure in place with pulley nut and lockwasher.
3. Attach field frame assembly to drive end frame with six attaching screws
and lockwashers.
4. Attach commutator end frame to field frame with six attaching screws and
lockwashers.
5. Connect leads to the insulated and third brush holders with one each screw
and lockwasher. This connects the "A" terminal to the insulated main brush and
the "F" terminal, through the field windings to the insulated third brush.
JUMPER LEAD BRIDGING VOLTAGE
REGULATOR CONTACT POINTS
o H AMMETER'VOLTMETER GENERATOR
TESTING AND ADJUSTING OF GENERATOR: Mount generator on test
stand, connect to test stand ammeter and voltmeter in accordance with the diagram.
Connect the ammeter in the charging circuit at the regulator "AMM" terminal.
Connect the voltmeter leads from the generator "A1' terminal to ground, and
bridge the voltage regulator contact points with a jumper lead. Operate generator
at speed at which maximum output is obtained. If output exceeds 24-26 amperes
with generator cold, immediately remove cover band, loosen third brush hold down
screw in commutator end frame with off-set screwdriver and move third brush
away from main brush to obtain 24-26 amperes. Generator at specified voltage
must be checked, since the output varies with the voltage. If specified voltage
cannot be attained '4 ohm variable resistance of sufficient current carrying
capacity should be inserted into the charging circuit and resistance cut in until
the specified voltage is attained. Operate until generator reaches operating
temperature (about 30 minutes). At operating temperature, the generator should
produce 18 amperes at 13 volts, at 3000 r.p.m. (read speed if an indicator is
available). Adjust by moving the third brush toward the main brush to increase
output, or move third brush away from main brush to lower output. After adjust-
ment is complete, tighten the hold down screw and replace cover band. Avoid twisting
off hold down screw through excessive tightening.
223
REPAIR SECTION
GENERATOR REGULATOR
The generator regulator can be disassembled, serviced, and re-
assembled as outlined in the following instructions.
UPPER CONTACT SCREW
LOCK NUT
CONTACT POINTS
ARMATURE
SCREWS (A)
ARMATURE
SPRING
LOCK SCREW
ECCENTRIC
SCREW
VOITAGE iicULATOR
FIBRE INSULATOR
ARMATURE
ARMATURE STOP
CONTACT POINT
OPENING
AIR GAP
LOWER CONTACT
BRACKET
SCREWS (A)
DRAWING
OF REGULATOR
LOCK SCREW
CUT-OUT RELAY
ECCENTRIC SCREW
ARMATURE SPRING
Disassembling Generator Regulator
DISASSEMBLY INTO MAIN SUB-ASSEMBLIES: 1. Remove cover by
unscrewing the two cover locking nuts.
2. Remove the screw and lockwasher holding the resistance unit and voltage
regulator series winding lead (enclosed in yellow insulation) to base.
3. Remove the screw and lockwasher holding the cut-out relay shunt winding
lead (enclosed in yellow insulation) and voltage regulator main winding lead
(enclosed in red insulation) to the grounded terminal on the base.
4. Disconnect heavy relay and regulator leads by removing in order named,
lead clamping screw, lockwasher and flat washer and then unsoldering the two
leads.
5. Remove voltage regulator from fibre mounting plate by removing nut and
lockwasher from stud on under side of plate.
6. Remove cut-out relay from fibre mounting plate by removing nut and lock-
washer from stud on under side of plate.
7. Disconnect lead from resistance assembly by removing nut and lockwasher.
DISASSEMBLY OF VOLTAGE REGULATOR: 1. Remove voltage regulator
spiral armature spring by holding it with pliers and unsoldering from armature.
Avoid crushing spring with pliers.
2. Disconnect lead from contact bracket assembly by removing nut and lock-
washer.
3. Remove contact bracket assembly by removing four screws, four lock
washers and four flat washers.
4. Disassemble contact bracket assembly by first removing contact screw,
locking nut and lockwasher. This operation may be performed at any time that
the contact screw requires cleaning or replacement. Extreme care must be used
224
during this operation to avoid bending the contact screw supporting spring. This
flat spring raises up off the fibre bracket when the contact points come together
to provide a wiping action between the points. Distorting the spring may cause
severe damage to the regulator and generator as well as other electrical equipment.
The correct procedure for removing the contact screw is as follows: Place wrench
on locking nut. Place screwdriver in contact screw slot. Hold contact screw station-
ary with screwdriver. Loosen locking nut with wrench. The contact screw, locking
nut and lockwasher may now be removed with the fingers. Remove contact terminal
screw, nut and two lockwashers.
5. Remove armature by removing two screws (one serving as an insulated
bumper to protect the unit when removing or installing the cover), lockwashers,
and flat washers.
6. Remove contact bracket support by removing the remaining two screws
and lockwashers. These two screws and lockwashers, together with the two original
armature mounting screws, lockwashers, and flat washers on the opposite side of
the frame, hold the contact bracket support in place.
7. Remove winding assembly from frame by removing nut.
8. The three-fourths turn of heavy wire which is the series coil may be bent
back slightly to permit removal of the winding assembly from the frame. It need
not be unsoldered from the frame.
9. If it should ever become necessary, the adjustment locking screw, lock-
washer, and flat washer may be removed from the frame.
DISASSEMBLE CUT-OUT RELAY: 1. Remove cut-out relay armature
spiral spring by holding with pliers and unsoldering from armature. Avoid crushing
spring with pliers.
2. Remove contact bracket by removing two screws (one of the insulated
bumper type), lockwashers, and flat washers. Unsolder end of series winding from
bracket.
3. Remove armature by removing two screws and lockwashers.
4. The armature stop bracket may now be lifted out.
5. Remove winding assembly from frame by removing nut.
6. The winding assembly may be further disassembled by removing the fibre
insulator from the serrations on the winding core, and then removing the heavy
series winding.
7. If it should ever become necessary, the adjustment locking screw, lockwasher,
and flat washer may be removed from the frame.
Generator Regulator Inspection
GENERAL: After disassembly, all parts should be examined, cleaned as
necessary, and defective parts repaired or replaced. Particular attention should be
given insulators; any found cracked, burned, or otherwise damaged should be re-
placed. Details of inspection of the parts are given below.
WINDING ASSEMBLIES: Winding assemblies should be handled with care,
since they contain very fine wire which could be broken by rough treatment. The
leads must not be twisted or pulled for the same reason. Make sure that the lead
clips are well soldered to the leads and that the insulating tape on the outside
of the windings is in place.
ARMATURES: The cut-out relay armature and voltage regulator armature
have contact points which should be examined for roughness and pits. Contact
225
points which are pitted, excessively rough, burned, or dirty, may be cleaned with
a clean, fine-cut contact file or on a fine emery wheel or stone. Do not remove
more contact material than is absolutely necessary. Make sure all traces of emery
or filings are removed from the point surfaces. Do not use emery cloth or sand-
paper, since particles of emery or sand may embed and cause point burning. Do
not touch point surfaces or get any grease or oil on them after cleaning, since traces
of oil or grease will cause the points to burn in operation. Care must be taken in
handling the armatures, since they have a flat armature spring which must not be
bent or distorted. Damaging the flat spring will cause defective operation of the
unit after assembly.
Contact Screw: The contact screw of the voltage regulator has a contact point
which should be examined for roughness or pits. It should be cleaned as outlined
under Armatures in the preceding paragraph.
CONTACT SUPPORT BRACKET: The flat spring on the contact bracket
of the voltage regulator must not be distorted and must have sufficient tension
to rest firmly against fibre at free end. This provides a wiping action between
the points in operation. Replace if defective.
Assembling Generator Regulator
ASSEMBLY OF CUT-OUT RELAY: 1. Place relay series winding over
winding assembly and secure by pressing on fibre insulator. The straight lead on
the series winding should be next to the fibre insulator and almost in line with two
leads passing through fibre washer at opposite end of winding.
2. Install winding assembly into frame and secure with nut. With frame held
upright so short side is toward operator, all leads should be to right of operator.
3. Install adjustment locking screw, lockwasher and flatwasher into frame and
tighten only loosely.
4. Place the armature stop bracket in place.
5. Install contact bracket with two screws, lockwashers and flat washers. Screws
go through frame and fasten armature stop bracket in place. Solder heavy series
lead and red insulation covered lead from the winding assembly to the contact bracket
arm.
6. Fasten armature with two screws and lockwashers to frame. Clips from
leads which are riveted to armature contact points should fasten under lockwashers
and screws to frame. Screws go through frame into armature stop bracket. Armature
must be pushed down tight against frame so there is no air gap between frame
and armature. Use care to avoid damaging armature flat spring.
7. Put spiral spring in place, with pliers, hooking ends to armature and lower
spring support.
ASSEMBLY OF VOLTAGE REGULATOR: 1. Place winding assembly into
frame and secure with nut. With frame held upright so short side is toward
operator, the two leads attached to a single clip should be to right of operator.
2. Install adjustment locking screw, lockwasher, and flat washer into frame and
tighten only lightly.
3. Put contact bracket support into place.
4. Fasten armature to frame with two screws, lockwashers, and flat washers.
Armature must be pushed down tight against frame so there is no air gap between
frame and armature. Use care to avoid damaging flat armature spring. Screws
go through frame and fasten into contact bracket support.
226
REPAIR SECTION
EXPLODED DRAWING OF REGULATOR
5. Install other two screws and lockwashers to hold contact bracket support
in place. Clip on lead to resistance unit goes under screw and lockwasher on
left-hand side.
6. Assemble contact bracket assembly as follows: Assemble lead attaching
screw with lockwasher through contact bracket assembly and secure with lockwasher
and nut. Place contact screw locking nut on contact screw. Place lockwasher under
nut and run screw down lightly into place in collar on flat contact spring on contact
bracket assembly.
7. Fasten contact bracket assembly to regulator with four screws, lockwashers
and washers.
8. Fasten lead clip (with two leads) to contact bracket terminal screw with
nut and lockwasher.
9. Put spiral spring in place with pliers, hooking ends to armature and lower
spring support.
ASSEMBLY OF REGULATOR: 1. Fasten cut-out relay to fibre mounting
plate with nut and lockwasher on stud.
2. Fasten voltage regulator unit to fibre mounting plate with nut and lock-
washer on stud.
3. Connect heavy relay and regulator leads as follows: Place heavy leads in
place in lead clamp in fibre mounting plate between the relay and regulator unit.
Solder the connections securely with rosin, not acid, flux and secure with large
washer, lockwasher and screw.
4. Install screw and lockwasher holding the cut-out relay shunt winding lead
(yellow insulation covering) and voltage regulator main winding lead (red insula-
tion covering) to the grounded terminal on the fibre mounting plate.
5. Connect resistance unit to clip of lead from the voltage regulator contact
bracket support mounting screw with lockwasher and nut.
6. Install the lockwasher and screw holding the resistance unit and voltage
regulator series winding lead (with yellow insulation) to base.
7. Solder spiral springs to armatures of cut-out relay and voltage regulator.
This holds springs on armatures and prevents possibility of their coming off in
service.
227
REPAIR SECTION
CRANKING MOTOR
The Cranking Motor can be disassembled, serviced, and re-as-
sembled as outlined in the following instructions.
OILER
SOLENOID
STUD
LINKAGE
SHIFT LEVER
COMMUTATOR
END FRAME
BRUSH
BRUSH SPRING
COVER BAND
ARMATURE
CENTER
BEARING
DRIVE HOUSING
Disassembling Cranking Motor
DISASSEMBLY INTO MAIN SUB-ASSEMBLIES: 1. Detach cranking
motor solenoid switch by removing nut and lock washer attaching heavy lead to
switch terminal and nut and lockwasher attaching smaller lead to side of solenoid
switch. With pliers, remove cotter pin and pin attaching link assembly to shift
lever and unscrew link stud from solenoid plunger. Remove four screws and lock
washers attaching solenoid to field frame and lift off solenoid switch.
2. Detach drive housing assembly by bending up tangs on five locking washers
and removing five screws, washers and locking washers. Tap housing, with armature
away from field frame (soft hammer). Discard locking washers as they must not
be used a second time.
3. Lift armature, with center bearing and Dyer drive assembly, out of drive end
frame after cutting safety wire and removing four screws and lock washers.
4. To detach commutator and frame assembly: Remove cover band by un-
snapping catch. Note relationship of brush leads and brushes. Disconnect three
leads from field coil conductors by removing three screws and lock washers. Bend
up tangs on locking washers and remove six screws, washers, and locking washers.
Tap commutator and frame assembly free (soft hammer). Discard locking washers.
DISASSEMBLY OF COMMUTATOR END FRAME ASSEMBLY: 1. Re-
move brush plate assembly as follows: From terminal, remove nut, lockwasher, two
lead clips, nut, lockwasher and flat washer and two insulating washers. Remove
three screws, lockwashers and flat washers and lift brush plate assembly from
commutator end frame assembly. Remove from terminal 8 insulating washers
(small) and 2 insulating washen (large).
2. Disassemble brush plate assembly as follows: Remove 9 brush lead attaching
screws end lockwashers, lift up on brush springs and remove 12 brushes. (NOTE:
Further disassembly will not be required normally unless insulators, brush holders,
springs, or plates require replacement.) Remove three insulated brush holders to
228
which were attached field coil leadi by unscrewing brush spring pin and brush
holder screw. Two springs will come off with each brush spring pin. There are
one each lockwashers under the pin and screw. Parts will come off in this order:
brush holder, thin space plate, brush holder insulating plate, four insulating
washers, and (from opposite side for all three insulated holders are detached)
brass brush holder support plate and brush plate insulating plate. Remove other
three brush holders from brush plate and stud assembly by unscrewing brush spring
pin and brush holder screw. Under each will be a lockwasher. Brush holders and
thick spacer plate will come off. Two' brush springs will come off on pin.
3. If the bushing is worn, it may be pressed out and a new one installed (arbor
press). The plug must first be removed. Install new oil wick and oiler as required.
4. Remove old brake washer and install new one (shellac in place), if necessary.
DISASSEMBLY OF FIELD FRAME ASSEMBLY: 1. Disconnect field coils
from field terminal by unsoldering three leads. Terminal stud may be removed by
removing nut, lockwasher, nut, lockwasher, flat washer, two insulating washers
(large), and four insulating washers, two insulating strips, washer, and stud.
2. Remove field coils from field frame by removing 12 pole shoe screws (pole
shoe screwdriver) 6 pole shoes and coils. Be careful with coils to avoid bending
lead connections or damaging insulation. Note how the long insulating strips are
placed to avoid grounding of the field coil leads against frame.
DISASSEMBLY OF DRIVE HOUSING ASSEMBLY: 1. Remove shift lever
assembly by unscrewing four screws and removing four lockwashers, cover, shift
lever assembly and shift lever return spring.
2. If the bushing is defective, it may be pressed out and a new one installed
(arbor press). Install new wick and oiler as required.
DISASSEMBLY DYER DRIVE ASSEMBLY: 1. Remove Dyer drive parts
from armature shaft. Remove cotter pin, pinion stop, pinion, pinion spring, shift
sleeve, two thrust washers and center bearing assembly from armature shaft, in
order named. After cotter pin has been removed, pinion stop must be rotated until
notches register with shaft splines before it can be removed. Rest of assembly slides
off easily (press against shift sleeve.)
2. Replace bushing in center bearing, if necessary. (Arbor press). Replace
wick and oiler, as required.
DISASSEMBLY OF CRANKING MOTOR SOLENOID SWITCH: 1. Un-
solder lead from clip under "motor" terminal and remove four screws and lock
washers. Lift off terminal plate assembly and gasket.
2. Remove cotter pin (pliers) unscrew castellated nut and lift off, in the
order named, contact disc, cupped washer, spring, flat washer and cupped washer.
Remove plunger and rod from opposite end of housing.
3. Disassemble terminal plate assembly further, if necessary, by removing from
each terminal stud, nut, lockwasher, nut, lockwasher and flat washer. From MOTOR
terminal, remove clip, flat washer, insulating washers (large and small). From BAT
terminal, remove large insulating washer, shield with several small insulating wash-
ers, and small insulating washer. Studs, insulation plate, and terminal plate may
now be separated.
4. If required, the two terminal studs in the sides of the contact housing may
be removed by removing from back, nut, lockwasher, nut, lockwasher, flat washer,
insulating washer, small insulating washers, insulating strip, and stud. Clip may be
unsoldered from lead, if necessary.
229
REPAIR Of ENGINE UNITS
Cranking Motor Inspection
GENERAL: After disassembly, all parts should be cleaned, examined, and
defective parts replaced. The procedure of cleaning and inspecting parts is given in
the following paragraphs.
ARMATURE: Do not clean the armature by any degreasing method, since
this would damage the insulation and might ruin the armature. Wipe with a dean
cloth slightly dampened with carbon tetrachloride or similar solvent. If commutator
is rough, out of round, has high mica, filled slots, or is burned, it must be turned down
in a lathe and the mica undercut. The shaft splines should not be worn excessively
and the undercut into which the pinion stop fits must provide a snug fit for the pinion
stop. Armature may be checked for ground, open, or short circuit as follows:
a. GroundCheck with test lamp and test points from the commutator to the
armature shaft or lamination. If the lamp lights, indicating ground, and if the ground
is not readily apparent and repairable, the armature must be replaced.
b. OpenAn open circuited armature is often easy to detect, since this con-
dition produces badly burned commutator bars. The bars connected to the open
armature windings soon burn in operation since every time they pass under the brushes
they interrupt a flow of current so that heavy arcing occurs. If the bars are not too
badly burned, the armature may often be saved.
c. ShortA shorted armature may be detected on a growler. The growler is a
strong electromagnet connected to a source of alternating current. When a shorted
armature is placed on the growler, and a hacksaw blade held above the shorted coils
in the armature, the blade will be alternately attracted to and repelled from the
armature, causing the blade to buzz against the armature. Before discarding an
armature testing shorted, inspect the commutator slots carefully, since copper or brush
dust sometimes collects in the slots and shorts adjacent bars.
FIELDS: The fields should not be cleaned by any degreasing method, since
this would damage the insulation and might ruin the windings. Clean by wiping with
a clean, dry cloth. Be careful in handling the windings to avoid breaking or weak-
ening the connecting straps between windings. If the field insulation is charged or
chaffed so that the windings are exposed, it is sometimes possible to rewrap them
with insulating tape and paint them with insulating compound. It must be remem-
bered that if the wrapping is done carelessly so the insulation bulks up too large, it
will be impossible to reassemble the coils under the pole shoes. All soldered connec-
tions should be made with rosin flux solder.
BRUSHES: If the brushes are worn down to 5/16 inch (original length Vi inch),
replace. Make sure that the pigtail leads are tight in the brushes and that the clips
are fastened well to the leads.
BRUSH SPRINGS: The brush springs should have sufficient tension to provide
the proper pressure between the brushes and commutator after the unit is assembled.
This may be checked by placing the armature and commutator end frame together in
their normal operating position and then placing the brushes in their holders with
the springs in place so that the tension of the springs against the brushes can be
measured with a spring gauge. Replace springs if the tension is not correct.
BUSHINGS: If the bushings are worn, they should be replaced. Wear will not
be even, but on the side which sustains the greatest thrust during cranking.
BRUSH HOLDERS: If the brush holders, spacer plates, insulators, etc., are
bent, warped, cracked, burned, or otherwise damaged, replace.
230
REPAIR SECTION
CRANKING MOTOR SWITCH: The switch contacts should be clean, and the
springs sufficiently strong to provide normal pressure between the contact disc and
terminals.
DYER DRIVE PARTS: Pinion stop must not be worn and on assembly must
fit in shaft under cut snugly. Pinion teeth must not be worn, burred, or chipped
excessively. Shift sleeve assembly must be in good condition, with parts tightly fast-
ened together.
MISCELLANEOUS: Any defective insulator, screw, washer, lead, stud, plate,
etc., should be replaced. Cracked, bent, worn, burned insulators or washers are defec-
tive. Studs or screws which are bent, battered, broken, or which have crossed or
damaged threads, are defective. Leads which have broken strands, frayed insulation,
are defective.
ARMATURE: Conditions in the armature requiring repair are:
a. Commutator worn, dirty, etc.If the commutator is worn, dirty, rough, out
of round, has high mica, filled slots, burned spots, place the armature in a lathe and
turn down the commutator. Make cut no deeper than necessary. Minimum diameter
of commutator should be 2 inch (original 2Vg inch). If it is necessary to turn commu-
tator down below this diameter, discard armature. Undercut mica 1/32 inch.
b. Armature banding wire looseIf the banding wire has loosened, it may some-
times be repaired by re-wrapping tightly and resoldering (silver solder).
c. Armature openSome bars badly burned, with other bars fairly clean, indi-
cate an open circuited armature. The open will usually be found at the commu-
tator riser bars and is often a result of excessively long cranking periods which over-
heat the unit and cause the connections to become bad. Since the armature is of a
welded construction, such a condition will be rare.
FIELDS: Conditions in the field windings requiring repair are:
a. Defective insulationIf the insulation is charred, or worn away, so the field
coils are, or could become, grounded, repair may sometimes be made by rewrapping
the coils with insulating tape and painting them with insulating paint. This opera-
tion must be executed with care and neatness, since excessive bulkiness of the tape
will prevent reassembling the windings under the pole shoes in the proper manner.
Make soldered connections with rosin flux.
BUSHINGS: After a bushing is pressed in and reamed to size, the oil wick
hole must be drilled out. This throws up a burr, which must be removed with a
burnishing tool of the same size as the reamer. Bushings must be reamed concentric
with machined registers on castings.
Assembling Cranking Motor
ASSEMBLY OF CRANKING MOTOR SOLENOID SWITCH: 1. On terminal
studs, place in the order named, terminal insulation plate, terminal plate and small
insulating washer. Contacts on stud leads should be turned so that maximum area
will contact the contact disc. Place on "bat" terminal stud, several small washers,
large insulating washer. Place on "motor" terminal stud, insulating washer, flat
washer, clip. Then place a lock washer, nut.
2. Attach two small terminal studs as follows. Solder clip to two solenoid leads,
attach terminal stud with clip, insulating strip, small insulating washers, insulating
washer, flat washer, lock washer, nut, lock washer, and nut.
231
REPAIR SECTION
3. Put plunger and rod in housing. On threaded end of rod, place cupped washer,
flat washer, spring, cupped washer, contact disc, nut and cotter pin. Cups in washers
must face spring. Run nut down until castellations clear cotter pin hole in push rod.
4. Attach terminal plate assembly with 4 screws and lock washers after thread-
ing lead through bushing in plate. Solder lead to clip under "motor" terminal and pull
sleeve over connection. Place Permatex in bushing to seal it.
ASSEMBLING DYER DRIVE. Place center bearing plate, plain thrust washer,
cupped thrust washer, and shift sleeve on armature shaft. The cupped out section of
the cupped thrust washer should face the shift sleeve. The pinion guide, spring, and
pinion may be assembled on the armature shaft but all three parts must be in position
before they may be correctly assembled. Place the pinion guide on the armature shaft
being careful to note that the lugs on the pinion guide are toward the pinion, but do
not twist the pinion guide on the splined armature shaft farther than the groove which
is about 1 Jj inches from the end of the armature shaft. Place the spring on the
1UGS APftOKIMAlfLT
HALF WAT IN SLOTS
- PINION STOP
armature shaft immediately behind the pinion guide. Then put the pinion on the shaft
over the spring with the spring compressed in the pinion skirt. Align the lugs on the
pinion guide with the slots which are cut in the skirt of the pinion. With the thumb
and forefinger hold the pinion guide stationary on the shaft and push the pinion onto
the shaft with the spring between the two. When the lugs on the pinion guide are
about half way into the slots on the pinion skirt, rotate the pinion and pinion guide
with respect to the shaft until the pinion splines and shaft splines align. The thumb
and forefinger may then be removed from the pinion guide lugs and the assembly,
consisting of the pinion guide, spring, and pinion may be twisted on the spline grooves
of the armature shaft into the shift sleeve. Twist on the spline grooves until a click is
heard. This click results from the pinion guide dropping into the undercut section of
the shaft splines, which locks the entire assembly consisting of the shift sleeve, pinion
guide, spring, and pinion into place on the armature shaft, immediately next to the
center bearing assembly plate. The only way that this lock is released is by pushing
the shift sleeve toward the end of the shaft.
The pinion stop has two holes through which the cotter pin slips to fasten the
pinion stop to the armature shaft. Align the pinion stop with the spline grooves and
twist onto the armature shaft (place the end of the pinion stop which is the farther
from the two holes on first). When the stop hits the groove, which is about 1% inches
from the end of the armature shaft, the pinion stop is free to rotate on the shaft.
Rotate the stop until the holes in the armature shaft are in line with those in the pinion
stop. Insert the cotter pin and bend ends down close around the stop or interference
may be encountered between pinion and stop.
ASSEMBLE DRIVE HOUSING ASSEMBLY. 1. Place cover on shift lever
and assemble to drive end frame with four screws and lockwashers. Place spring on
shift lever shaft with long tang on drive end frame boss. Catch other end of spring,
twist it in a clockwise direction and drop end into slot in end of shaft.
232
HOUSING-
BAND-
CENTER^ ^/COMMUTATOR
BEARING ARMATURE
-DRIVE
HOUSING
EXPLODED DRAWING OF CRANKING MOTOR
ASSEMBLE FIELD FRAME ASSEMBLY. I. Put insulating washer and long
and short insulation strips on terminal stud, put stud in position in frame and secure
with small insulating washers, large insulating washers, flat washer, lock washer, nut,
lock washer, nut. Slot in stud lead must be aligned with frame, and insulating strips
so placed as to protect the coil leads from grounding to the frame.
2. Place field coils in position in frame with pole shoes, insert pole shoe spreader,
tighten, and with pole shoe screwdriver, tighten pole shoe screws (two per pole shoe).
Solder three field coil leads into slot in stud. Long insulating strip and two short
insulators should be placed so as to protect coil leads from grounding to field frame.
ASSEMBLE COMMUTATOR END FRAME ASSEMBLY. 1. Fasten three
brush holders to brush plate and stud assembly with brush spring pins and brush
holder screws. One brush holder is assembled directly above stud, while other two are
assembled 120 from it. Use pins and screws with short threaded sections. Thick
spacers go under holders and lock washers go under screws and pins. Springs should
go on pins with hooked ends toward brush plate and down in holders. Put insulating
plate in position on opposite side of brush plate and stud assembly, and place brass
brush holder support plate next to it. Secure by fastening other three brush holders
with pins and screws. Two insulating washers go in each screw hole to insulate pins
and screws from plate and stud assembly. Above these go the insulating plate, thin
spacer washer, brush holder, lock washers, pin and screw. Springs should go on pins
with hooked ends toward brush plate and down in holders. Place twelve brushes in
holders and secure nine of the brush lead clips to brush holders with screws and lock
washers. Do not install the three screws which also fasten field leads to holders.
(These are the insulated holders 60 and 180 from stud.)
2. Attach brush plate assembly as follows. Place 2 insulating washers (large)
and-eight insulating washers (small) on terminal stud. Put brush plate assembly in
position to commutator end frame and secure with three screws, flat washers and lock-
washers. Place on terminal stud two insulating washers, flat washer, lock washer, nut,
lead, lead clip, lock washer, and nut.
ASSEMBLE CRANKING MOTOR. 1. Place commutator end frame and field
frame together in correct relationship so that terminal or commutator end is 30 to
left of center as viewed from commutator end. Fasten with six screws and washers
and locking washers. Use new locking washers. Bend one tang up against screw
head. Bend other tang down against frame. Connect three field coil leads to brush
holders with screw and lock washer. This also fastens brush lead clips to brush holders.
Replace cover band.
2. Armature, with center bearing and Dyer drive, may be placed in position in
the drive end housing. Bring in housing at an angle so the stud on the shift lever can
engage the slot in the shift sleeve. Establish correct relationship of center bearing
and drive housing as determined by oiler on field frame. Secure with four screws and
locking washers. Thread .032" safety wire through holes in screw heads and twist
together.
233
3. Bring field frame with commutator end and the drive housing with armature
together. Lift brushes and lock them in their holders so they will clear commutator.
Secure with five screws, washers, and locking washers. Use new locking washers.
Bend one tang up against screw head and other down against frame.
4. Attach solenoid switch to field frame with four screws and lockwashers. Attach
small lead to cranking motor and solenoid terminal studs with lockwasher and nut,
also large lead from solenoid BATTERY terminal to field terminal of motor. Screw
stud partly into plunger, fasten links to shift lever temporarily with pin and cotter pin
and adjust.
SOLENOID SERIES PARALLEL SWITCH
The series parallel switch can be disassembled, serviced, and re-
assembled as outlined in the following instructions.
INSULATOR PLATE
CONTACT AMEMUlr
COIL A CASE
GASKET
PLUNGER
SPRING
RETAINER
COVER
PIN
CROSS-SECTION DRAWING OF
SERIES PARALLEL SWITCH
CONTACT AND
SUPPORT
GROUND STRAP
TERMINAL ASSEMBLf
Disassembling Series Parallel Switch
DISASSEMBLY INTO MAIN SUB-ASSEMBLIES. 1. Remove from each of
the two large terminals ( + "B" fit "A") in the order named, the following parts: nut,
lockwasher, large terminal lead clip (also small clip on the "A" terminal), nut,
lockwasher, plain washer and insulation washer.
2. From the "SW" terminal, remove nut, lockwasher, plain washer, lead clip,
nut, lockwasher, plain washer, and insulating bushing.
3. Disassemble the large terminal on the side which is marked "FUSE" and the
"B" terminal which is also marked "FUSE" by removing from each the following:
large nut, lockwasher, plain washer, terminal lead clip, fuse terminal assembly, lock-
washer and fuse (or connector). In addition, remove from the side terminals plain
washer.
4. Remove ground screw and lockwasher holding the ground strap.
5. Lift off terminal cover, large insulating plate, and two terminal insulating
bushings.
6. Remove four screws, lockwashers, and plain washers and lift off terminal
plate and contact assembly and two gaskets.
DISASSEMBLY OF TERMINAL PLATE AND CONTACT ASSEMBLY.
1. Remove the large nut and lockwasher from one of the large studs (the stud with-
out the lead clip on it). Contact assembly will then slip out. From the other, remove
in order named, large nut, lockwasher, and plain washer.
234
REPAIR SECTION
2. Remove two large terminal studs, insulating plate, metal plate and two insulat-
ing bushings.
3. Unsolder lead from fuse socket.
4. To remove contact plunger and contact point arrangement, press down at the
hinged end, and move it slightly toward the contacts.
DISASSEMBLY OF COIL AND PLUNGER ASSEMBLY. 1. Unscrew plunger
cover and remove gasket.
2. Remove cotter pin from end of plunger rod and slip off retainer washer and
spring.
3. Remove cotter pin and nut from other end of plunger rod and remove contact
disc, cup washer, spring, plain washer, cupped slot washer and plain washer. Plunger
may now be removed.
4. Remove from each of the two side terminals in order named, nut, lockwasher,
lead clip, nut, lockwasher, plain washer, insulation washer, three small insulating
bushing washers. Remove the terminal screws and slip off insulating washer and lead
attaching clip.
5. Remove terminal housing by removing two screws.
Inspection of Series Parallel Switch
INSULATION: Due to the high voltage of the cranking circuit and the great
amount of power available from the two batteries, it is imperative that every precau-
tion be observed in guarding against the possibility of a short circuit or a ground. Use
stranded wire and cable throughout the installation to guard against breakage due to
vibration. Keep all joints clean and tight and solder all terminal clips and other elec-
trical connections. Use only a rosin flux in soldering electrical connections; an acid flux
induces corrosion and may cause a high resistance.
Extra heavy insulation must be used on all wires and the wires must be supported
at enough points to keep them from moving about and chafing through their insulation.
CONTACTS: The contacts should be inspected to determine if any are exces-
sively burned or damaged. Clean, if necessary, by filing or by use of a wire brush.
Remove no more material than is necessary. The secondary plunger which actuates
the contacts should be free to move without interference.
MISCELLANEOUS INSPECTION: Any defective insulator, screw, washer,
lead, stud, plate, etc., should be replaced. Cracked, bent, battered, worn, burned, insula-
tors and washers are defective. Screws or studs which are bent, battered, broken or
which have crossed or damaged threads, are defective. Leads which have broken
strands, badly frayed insulation, are defective.
235
REPAIR Of ENG I N E UNITS
/ CCVEfS
INSULATOR SPRING
EXPLODED DRAWING OF SERIES PARALLEL SWITCH
Assembling Series Parallel Switch
ASSEMBLY OF COIL AND PLUNGER ASSEMBLY. 1. Attach terminal
housing to winding assembly with two screws.
2. Place proper winding lead clips on switch control terminal screws and also
insulation washer and three insulation bushings. Insert terminals in terminal housing
and place on each insulation washer, plain washer, lockwasher, nut, lead clip, lock-
washer, and nut.
3. Insert plunger and place on terminal end the following parts: plain washer,
cupped slot washer (in groove), plain washer, spring, cup washer (cupped side facing
spring), contact disc, and nut. Secure with cotter pin.
4. Install return spring and cup washer retainer and secure with cotter pin.
5. Replace gasket and screw on plunger cover.
ASSEMBLY OF TERMINAL PLATE AND CONTACT ASSEMBLY. 1. In-
stall contact plunger and contact point arrangement.
2. Resolder lead to fuse socket.
3. Insert the two large terminal studs through insulating plate, metal plate sup-
port and insulating bushings.
4. Insert the large terminal studs through the terminal plate and place on one
(the one without the lead clip on it) the following: Contact assembly, lockwasher
and nut. On the other, place the following: plain washer (this goes on top of the lead
clip which the stud was placed through), lockwasher, and nut.
ASSEMBLY OF SOLENOID SWITCH. 1. Install two gaskets and contact
plate assembly and secure with four plain washers, lockwashers, and screws.
2. Install large insulating plate, two insulating bushings and terminal cover.
3. Secure the ground strap in place with screw and lockwasher.
4. Insert the two fuses in their sockets. Place on the fused terminal (side) a plain
washer and then install at each fused terminal the following parts: lockwasher, fuse
terminal assembly, (inspect the socket end that the fuse fits in, it should offer good
contact) terminal lead clip, plain washer, lockwasher, and nut.
5. Install on the "SW" terminal insulating bushing, plain washer, lockwasher,
nut, lead clip, plain washer, lockwasher, and nut.
6. Place on each of the two large terminal studs the following: insulating washer,
plain washer, lockwasher, nut (also place a small lead clip on the "A" terminal),
large terminal lead clip, lockwasher, and nut.
236
REPAIR SECTION
ASSEMBLY OF THE ENGINE
"Keep it clean" ... is the first rule when working on any part of
the Cummins Diesel engine. After cleaning the cylinder block with clean
solvent and compressed air, place it bottom up on a skid or frame of
heavy timbers. Use only clean, washed cloths to prevent lint from
entering the engine. Never use cotton waste.
CYLINDER BLOCK
CYLINDER BORES: Clean the bores in the cylinder block at the
point where the rubber pack rings of the cylinder liners seat and the
counter bores that receive the flanges of the cylinder liners. These points
must be thoroughly clean before attempt-
ing to install a cylinder liner. Scrape away
scale and finish with fine emery cloth.
Wash thoroughly.
DRILLED OIL HOLES TO MAIN
BEARINGS: 1. With a small rod, clean
out the oil holes leading from the oil
header to the main bearings.
2. One oil hole, to the front or Num-
ber 1 main bearing, leads on to the idler
gear.
3. All the main bearing studs on the camshaft side of the engine
are slotted or drilled for lubrication to the main bearing caps. These
slots must be thoroughly cleaned.
OIL HEADER: An oil header, or drilled hole for distributing the
lubricating oil, runs the full length of the cylinder block. It can be
inspected and cleaned by removing the small plugs on each end of
the cylinder block. Swab it out in the same manner you would clean a
rifle barrel. Never use waste.
MAIN BEARING DOWEL RING GROOVES: When assem-
bling new main bearings, be sure the dowel ring groove, or lock groove,
on one end of the bearing, is assembled to the manifold side of the
engine.
UPPER MAIN BEARINGS: 1. Main bearings, Numbers 1, 3
and 5 are alike. Numbers 2 and 6 are also alike, with no oil holes or
grooves provided. Main bearing Number 4 has one oil hole and this
hole must be assembled to register with the oil hole in the cylinder
block. This is necessary because the crankshaft is not drilled for lubri-
cation to the Number 4 main bearing as it is to the other bearings.
2. Main bearing Number 7 is designed with a thrust flange to
take the end thrust of the crankshaft and no oil holes are provided.
237
REPAIR SECTION
3. Before inserting the shells in the
block, any burrs must be removed. Any
particles of dirt or metal under the shell
will cause distortion and, ultimately, bear-
ing failure. Shells should be firmly seated
in the block.
MAIN BEARING DOWEL RINGS:
Main bearing shells are locked in place
with dowel or lock rings. When assembling these main bearing lock
rings to the main bearing studs (on the manifold side of the engine),
make sure that the dowel rings fit down into the cylinder block freely
and that each groove in the main bearing is fitted around the dowel ring.
If the ring does not fit into the bearing groove properly, the main bearing
will be distorted and ultimately fail.
CRANKSHAFT
1. Make sure that all oil holes and bearing journals on the crank-
shaft are absolutely clean. Don't use waste.
2. Lubricate each main bearing with good, clean lubricating oil
before attempting to lift the crankshaft into place.
3. For lifting the crankshaft, use a clean piece of rope, connected
between two crank throws. It is very important that the crankshaft be
lowered squarely into place. Make sure that the flange on the crankshaft
does not bind on the thrust faces of the rear, or Number 7, main bearing.
4. All journals on the crankshaft are drilled for lubrication except
the center main bearing.
LOWER MAIN BEARINGS: 1. Number 1, 3 and 5 lower main
bearings are alike, and Number 2, 4 and 6 are alike. Oil holes and grooves
are provided in all lower main bearings.
2. Before assembling the lower main bearings to the crankshaft,
make sure each shell is thoroughly lubricated with clean oil, and all
burrs removed.
3. The back of the bearing shell and the bearing seat must be
carefully cleaned of even the smallest particles of dirt or metal. Be
sure that the small groove on one side of the bearing is placed toward
the manifold side of the engine.
MAIN BEARING CAPS: 1. Each
main bearing cap is numbered to corres-
pond with an upper main bearing.
2. Place each cap over the stud with
the number to the camshaft side of the
engine. Main bearing caps are not inter-
changeable.
238
REPAIR SECTION
3. The cylinder block is precision
machined for the cap to fit into its cor-
rect position. After each main bearing
shell has been put in position by hand,
use a small hammer to tap the caps down
securely into place.
4. Never file the caps to reduce the
clearance.
LOCK PLATES AND STUD NUTS: 1. Lubricate the threads
on each main bearing stud. Place new lock plates in position before
installing the stud nuts.
2. Tighten the bearing stud nuts alternately, a little at a time,
using a heavy duty socket wrench with a 36" handle. Pull all the nuts
evenly and securely in place. If a torque wrench is available, the main
bearing stud nuts should be pulled to 310 to 330 foot pounds.
CRANKSHAFT END CLEARANCE: 1. Check the end thrust
clearance on the Number 7 main bearing between the thrust face of the
bearing and the thrust flange on the crankshaft.
2. Use a small bar to pry the crankshaft toward the rear end of the
engine and check with a feeler gauge around the entire thrust face of the
bearing. Clearance should be .006" to .008".
3. If the clearance is less than .006", it will be necessary to remove
the bearing shells and, using a mill file, carefully relieve each thrust face
of the main bearing until proper clearances are obtained.
MAIN BEARING LOCK PLATES: Using a small bar, bend up
one corner of the lock plate. Then with a flat end punch, lock securely
in place against the flat side of the main bearing nuts.
MAIN BEARING REPLACEMENT WITHOUT PULLING THE
CRANKSHAFT: Main bearing shells are positioned in the block and
caps by a dowel ring on each stud opposite the camshaft side of the
engine. This permits the replacement of the upper shells without disman-
tling the engine. Check the registry of the oil holes in the shells with
corresponding holes in the bearing caps.
NOTE: Main bearing caps are assem-
bled so the marks are on the camshaft side
of the engine. Should a bearing burn out,
the metal should be carefully removed
from all oil passages in the crankshaft and
the cylinder block. Improper cleaning of
these passages will result in another bear-
ing failure. If the remaining bearings have
239
ASSEMBLING ENGINE
had considerable service, it is recommend-
ed that all be replaced. Replacing one
bearing when the others are badly worn
means that the new bearing will take the
load until it has attained the same diam-
eter as the old ones. Another bearing
failure usually results before this occurs.
To change the main bearing shells, first
remove the bearing cap, bearing and
dowel ring. Turn the crankshaft slightly
and the upper bearing shell should roll
out with the crank as it turns. Should
the bearing be stuck in the block, a flat
head pin may be used in the oil hole in
the crankshaft. Be sure that the pin head
does not project from the crankshaft more
than 3/32" or damage will result to the
block.
Roll the pin against the bearing shell.
It will turn out when the crank is revolved.
OIL SEAL AND COVER PLATE: 1. Shellac a new gasket over
the dowel pins on the rear of the cylinder block. Assemble the upper
cover plate over the dowel pins and tighten down the four cap screws
and lock washers. With the crankshaft pried toward the cover plate,
check the clearance between the crankshaft flange and the opposing
face of the cover plate. Clearance should be .004" to .006".
2. The .004" to .006" clearance between the crankshaft flange and
the opposing face of the cover plate can be obtained by the use of .005"
and .010" gaskets to move the cover plates to or from the cylinder block.
3. Also check the clearance between the crankshaft and the bore
of the cover plate. This should be .006". When installing new cover
plates this clearance must be correct before the dowel pin holes are
reamed to oversize.
4. Remove the cover plate and install
new asbestos seals into the recess of both
upper and lower cover plates. New asbes-
tos seals must be beveled on three sides
of each end, 1/32" by 45, leaving the
inside edge square. The ends of the seal
should not extend more than 1/32" above
joining surfaces of cover plates. The seals
IMC WW Of WAl1
240
REPAIR SECTION
must be thoroughly oiled, as an oil leak
will develop if dry seals are run on a dry
shaft. Make sure that asbestos seals are
well seated in grooves.
5. Shellac new connecting gaskets to
the lower cover plate. Assemble the lower
plate to upper plate and bolt together
tightly with dowel fit bolts, lock washers
and nuts. Install cap screws and lock washers to the cover plates, and
pull up evenly to the cylinder block over the dowel pins.
FLYWHEEL HOUSING
1. The gasket on the flywheel housing is a seal for the camshaft
bore. This gasket should be put on the housing. Use gasket cement and
allow it to dry so it will not slip. Any slipping of the gasket will allow
oil to leak out of the back end of the cam bearing.
2. After the housing is bolted in place, the bore of the housing
should be checked with an indicator. Maximum total runout must be
held within .008". If a greater variation shows, pilot bearing and coup-
ling wear will be excessive.
3. The face of the flywheel housing should be checked in the
same manner as the bore. The maximum total run-out on the face must
also be held to within .008".
THE FLYWHEEL: 1. Clean and ,
remove all burrs from the flange of the
crankshaft and the face of the flywheel.
2. Place a new gasket over the
dowel pins on the flange of the crank-
shaft.
3. Installation of the flywheel can be
simplified by using two manifold studs
screwed into the flange of the crankshaft
as guides.
4. Assemble the flywheel over the
dowels to the crankshaft and secure in
place with lock washers and cap screws.
5. Indicate the clutch or coupling
face and bore of the flywheel. Maximum
run out should not exceed .004".
6. Lock the cap screws in the fly-
wheel in pairs to assure full benefit from
the lock wires.
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REPAIR SECTION
CYLINDER LINERS
1. Before installing the rubber pack rings,
make sure that the cylinder liner fits freely
in the cylinder block. This can be done by
checking as follows:
Place the cylinder liner in the block. Pass
a .0015" feeler gauge around the entire cir-
cumference of the cylinder liner flange at
the top. If this necessary clearance is not
present, remove the cylinder liner and scrape
the counterbore in the top of the cylinder
block at the points of binding until the .0015"
clearance is obtained.
2. The liner must also fit freely in the
cylinder block at the point where the pack
rings seal the liner in place. Check at this
point by the method described above, using
a .003" feeler gauge. If .003" clearance is
not present around the entire circumference,
scrape the block at the binding points as
outlined previously.
NOTE: If the cylinder liner does not fit
freely at both points mentioned, it will be
distorted when the cylinder head is assem-
bled and tightened in place. This would
result in a scored cylinder.
3. Rubber rings are used to seal the base
of the water jacket around the bottom of the
cylinder liners. Remove the cylinder liners
from the block and roll the seal rings into the
three grooves at the bottom of the liners,
being careful not to stretch the rings.
4. Rub a thin coat of liquid soap on the
surface of the block on which the rings will
seat. This lubricant should be put on the
block only, and not on the cylinder liners or
rings. An excessive amount of lubricant may
force the rubber rings out of the grooves and
ruin them when the liner is installed.
242
ASSEMBLING ENGINE
5. Insert the cylinder liner in place
so the marks on the liner and the block
will coincide. If this is not done, the valve
will strike the liner.
Warning: The liner must enter the
block with hand pressure only. Do not
force the liner into the block, as forcing
will cause distortion.
6. Using a gauge, check the inside
diameter of the liner for out of round, as
soon as it is placed in the cylinder block.
If it is more than .001" out of round, or
tapered from the top to the bottom, pull
the liner from the block and check the
bore in the cylinder block for dirt or scale. Clean and reinstall the liner
and check with the gauge at all the points shown. The inside diameters
of a standard cylinder liner are 4.875" to 4.876".
7. In measuring oversize liners, add the oversize to the standard
dimensions. Four gauges are availablestandard and one for each of
the following sizes.020", .030", .040".
CYLINDER LINER GAUGE MARKS
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
INSTALLING THE PISTON ASSEMBLY: A simple ring com-
pressor can be made from the upper half of an old cylinder liner by
taper-grinding the top inside 10 to accommodate the uncompressed
rings, or use the standard compressor as shown.
1. Assemble the bolts to the connecting rod with the heads in
locked position. The connecting rod bolts must not be interchanged.
Clean the bearing seat in the connecting rod. Oil thoroughly and insert
the piston rod assembly, rod first, through
the top of the ring compressor. Be very
careful to align all rings with the taper
in the ring compressor or broken rings
will result.
2. Place the connecting rod and piston
assembly in the cylinder liner with the
numbered side of the rod toward the
243
ASSEMBLING ENGINE
TORQUE WRENCH ON
CONNECTING ROD NUT
camshaft. Connecting rods are numbered
to correspond with their respective cylin-
ders and it is most important that they
be assembled accordingly.
3. From the bottom, pull the connect-
ing rod and the piston toward the crank-
shaft.
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS: 1. Before fitting new con-
necting rod bearings, clean the crankshaft carefully. The back of the
bearing and its seat in the connecting rod must be smooth and clean or
the bearing will not fit the shaft properly. Oil the bearing in the shaft
thoroughly.
2. The small lip projecting from the back of the bearing shell fits
into the groove in the connecting rod to dowel it in place. It must be
lined up correctly.
3. Insert the bearing shell and roll it into position in the connecting
rod.
Warning: Connecting rod caps must not be interchanged, filed
or turned end for end.
4. Oil the bearing thoroughly. The matched numbers stamped on
the connecting rods and on the caps must face the camshaft side of the
engine.
5. A small lip projecting from the back of the bearing shell fits
into the groove in the rod cap. This holds the bearing shell in place and
keeps it from turning.
6. Install the lock plates and nuts and pull up tightly with a 14"
box wrench, or to 105-115 foot pounds if a torque wrench is available.
7. Lock the projecting lip of the lock plate against the flat side of
the connecting rod bolt nut. The rods are machined to provide a side
clearance of .006" to .008". Check the clearance around the full circum-
ference of the crankshaft with a feeler gauge.
CAMSHAFT
1. A thrust washer is provided to take the end thrust of the cam-
shaft. There are three small oil grooves
in the thrust washer, and these small
grooves must face the camshaft gear.
2. Before installing the camshaft, see
that all cam bushings are clean and prop-
erly lubricated.
3. The camshaft has three cams for
each cylinder. These operate the three
244
REPAIR SECTION
push rods which lead to the exhaust valve,
the fuel injector and the intake valve.
4. The camshaft is drilled its full
length for lubrication and this oil passage
should be carefully cleaned. Rotate the
camshaft slightly while installing it in the
block. This permits the lobes of the cam
to pass through the camshaft bearings
and allows the camshaft to enter easily.
5. Index the zero on the camshaft gear with the zero on the
crankshaft gear. (Timing will be correct if the number on the camshaft
gear is indexed with the number on the camshaft, and if the zeros 01.
the crankshaft gear and camshaft gear are indexed.)
IDLER GEAR
1. Place the idler gear on its shaft, being careful to mesh the
gears properly, and check to see that the gear teeth of the idler gear
are flush with the camshaft gear teeth. It is possible to install the idler
gear backwards, but this would be noticeable because the gear teeth
would not be flush with the camshaft gear teeth.
2. The idler gear does not need to be timed with the camshaft
gear.
GEAR COVER
1. Shellac a new gasket to the gear cover .and assemble the cover
to the cylinder block over the dowel pins.
2. Assemble the oil pressure regulator and install it in the end
of the camshaft. Two lock washers and cap screws hold the oil pressure
regulator thrust plate to the gear case cover.
1. Using a new gasket, install the lubricating oil pump to the rear
of the flange on the cylinder block. Match the drive gear to the cam-
shaft gear carefully.
2. It will be necessary to start the lower inside nut before
assembling the oil pump securely.
3. Secure the pump in place with
lock washers and cap screws.
OIL PAN
1. Remove the screen in the oil pan
and clean it thoroughly before replacing.
2. Clean the gasket face on both the
cylinder block and the oil pan. Shellac
245
ASSEMBLING ENGINE
a new gasket to the oil pan and assemble the pan to the cylinder
block with capscrews and bolts
Caution: Three sizes and types of capscrews and bolts are used
in this installation.
3. After the engine has been brought up to operating temperature,
always retighten all oil pan nuts and capscrews to prevent oil leaks.
CAM ROCKER LEVER ASSEMBLIES
1. The cam rocker assemblies work directly on the camshaft and
actuate the valve and injector push rods.
2. Using a new gasket exactly .015" thick, install the cam rocker
assemblies to the cylinder block in exactly the same order as removed.
Caution: A gasket of any other thickness would change the timing
of the engine.
LUBRICATING OIL PIPES
1. The lubricating oil pipe carries oil from the camshaft to the
upper rocker housing. There is one oil pipe for each pair of cylinders.
2. With the small hole drilled through the pipe at the top, install
the pipe between each pair of cylinders.
3. Tighten the pipe by inserting a small pin punch through the
hole.
COMPRESSION RELEASE SHAFT
1. With new gaskets, assemble the compression release shaft
bearing to the side of the block and secure with lock washers and cap
screws.
2. The compression release shaft runs the full length of the
engine on the camshaft side. It contains a lifting notch for each intake
valve push rod. Insert the shaft into the cylinder block and install
the packing and packing glands.
3. Tighten in place with lock washers and cap screws.
4. Lock the compression release shaft in place with the small
lock screws in the flywheel end of the engine.
5. Place the intake push rod in position in the lower lever socket.
With the engine on Number 1 top center (on the firing stroke), turn
the compression release shaft until the lifting notch on the shaft is
within 1/32" of the collar of the intake valve push rod.
6. Assemble the compression release lever to the shaft so that
it is against the stop nearest the water pump and lock in place.
7. Install the expansion plug and tighten.
246
REPAIR SECTION
CYLINDER HEADS
1. Place a new cylinder head gasket on
the cylinder block and liner.
2. Install two new leather packing rings
on each lubricating oil pipe and pull them
down against the cylinder head gasket.
3. Thoroughly clean the faces of the
cylinder heads and install the heads over the
studs and dowels on the block.
4. Tighten each nut slightly in the cor-
rect order, using a 11/" socket with a handle
46" long.
Continue tightening in rotation until all
nuts have been secured. If a torque wrench
is available, tighten the cylinder head nuts
to 430-450 foot pounds.
INJECTORS
1. Before installing the injectors, wrap
a clean cloth around a wooden stick. Clean
out the injector sleeve in the cylinder head
and carefully wipe the injector cup seats.
Warning: Never use a metal rod or waste in this cleaning opera-
tion. Never attempt to scrape or ream the Cummins Diesel Injector Seat
because the copper sleeves and seats are easily scratched or marred.
2. Place the injector in its proper position in the cylinder head,
being very careful not to hit or bruise the injector tip.
3. Place new gaskets on the fuel inlet and drain connections and
screw the connections into the injector three
turns.
4. The right-hand hole is for the inlet
fuel connection and the left-hand hole is for
the drain connection.
5. Oil the injector hold down studs. In-
stall the nuts and tighten to 10-15 foot
pounds with a torque wrench, or, tighten by
247
REPAIR SECTION
holding a T-wrench so that no leverage
can be applied as shown.
Warning: Tightening these nuts to
excess will distort the valve seats and
crack the cylinder heads.
6. Tighten the fuel inlet and drain
connections, being careful not to apply
so much pressure that the copper gaskets
may be ruined.
PUSH RODS
1. Insert the injector, intake and ex-
haust push rods into their sockets.
Caution: The push rods must be re-
placed in the exact order in which they
were removed and numbered.
2. The injector push rods are the
largest. The intake rods have collars for
the compression release. Exhaust push
rods are plain.
ROCKER ARM HOUSINGS
1. Loosen the lock nuts on the injector
adjusting screws and back out the screws.
2. Rocker arm housings are numbered
on the cover face and must be installed
in numerical order, starting with Number
1 to the front of the engine.
3. Install new rocker arm housing gaskets over the studs to the
cylinder heads.
4. As the rocker housings are assembled over the studs, align the
push rods with the rocker lever adjusting screws.
5. Tighten down the housing nuts evenly.
6. Check the push rods with a light to be sure they are correctly
installed in their respective sockets.
7. Put new gaskets on the lubricating oil pipes and install and
tighten down the pipe caps.
248
ASSEMBLING ENGINE
LUBRICATING OIL LINES
1. With new gaskets, assemble the oil suction and oil pressure
lines from the lubricating oil pump to the cylinder block.
Caution: Immerse the sleeve in lubricating oil before making the
joint. If the tube and rubber packing rings or washers are not lubricated,
the nut is liable to roll the rubber and ruin the seal.
2. The fittings have a definite stop at the end of the thread, and
it is only necessary to tighten the nut until this stop is reached to make
a perfect joint.
WATER MANIFOLD
1. Shellac a new gasket to each of the water manifold feet and
secure the manifold to the cylinder heads.
2. There are three thermostats that control the temperature of the
cooling solution in the engine. Place the two manifold thermostats in
the water manifold and assemble the thermostat cover with a new gasket.
3. Install the water by-pass, or third thermostat, in the by-pass
connection.
4. Using a new gasket, secure the by-pass connection to the water
manifold.
The water by-pass thermostat is normally open until the operating
temperature is reached. At this point, the manifold thermostats open,
and the by-pass thermostat closes.
INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
1. Assemble new gaskets over the manifold studs and dowel pins.
2. Place the clamps on the studs and start the lock washers and
nuts to hold them in place.
3. Fit the exhaust manifold over the dowel pins in the cylinder
head and turn the stud nuts down just enough to hold the manifold on
the dowels.
4. Turn down the two clamps on the Number 1 cylinder head so
that the intake manifold may be slipped into position.
5. Line up all the clamps and tighten the nuts evenly, securing
both manifolds in place.
COMPRESSION RELEASE SPRING
Hook the compression release lever spring into the lever and, with
a small cap screw, install the other end to the front cylinder head. This
spring holds the compression release continuously in running position,
unless the lever is pulled open by hand.
249
REPAIR SECTION
1. The injector drain manifold is
provided to drain the fuel which has by-
passed the injector plunger and carry it
back to the fuel pump. This fuel is al-
lowed to by-pass to lubricate the injector
plunger.
2. Assemble the injector drain mani-
fold to the cylinder block and secure it
in place with small clamps and screws.
3. Assemble and tighten each drain line
to its injector drain connection.
FUEL PUMP
1. Check the fuel pump drive gear to see that the timing mark
on the gear lines up with the mark on the governor housing, and
that the timing mark appears in the middle of the inspection hole in
the side of the distributor housing.
Warning: Unless these two sets of timing marks appear, it will
be impossible to time the pump to the engine.
2. Turn the crankshaft to Number 1 top center. The two center
punch marks on the back side of the camshaft gear will appear through
the fuel pump mounting flange.
3. Put chalk on the top of each center punched tooth on the
cam gear and on the marked tooth on the fuel pump gear.
4. Install the fuel pump and gasket to the cylinder block. Index
the one center punched tooth on the fuel pump drive gear between
the two center punched teeth on the cam gear.
5. Check through the inspection hole of the gear case cover to
see that the fuel pump gear is properly indexed to the camshaft gear.
6. Install and tighten the cap screws to the governor flange.
7. Install and tighten the two capscrews in the lower mounting
flange on the fuel pump housing and the two cap screws on the upper
mounting flange of the pump housing.
FUEL DRAIN LINE
Assemble the fuel drain line leading
from the drain manifold to the fuel pump
and clamp to the cylinder block.
FUEL SUPPLY LINE
All fuel supply fittings are numbered
on the fuel pump distributor. Assemble
the lines from the distributor to the
proper injector fuel inlet connection and
clamp in place.
250
ASSEMBLING ENGINE
WATER PUMP DRIVE PULLEY
Assemble the water pump drive pulley to the keyed fuel pump
shaft from the front of the gear housing. Assemble the nut and lock
plate to the shaft and tighten securely. Bend the lock plate over on
the flat side of the nut to lock it in place.
WATER PUMP AND DRIVE BELTS
1. Turn the water pump so that the low point of its eccentric is
toward the drive pulley. Assemble the belts over the pulleys.
2. Using a new ring gasket, assemble the pump to the cylinder
block. Hold the pump in place with the clamp ring, capscrews and lock
washers finger tight only.
3. Tighten the water pump drive
belts by inserting a screwdriver in the hole
in the side of the pump body. Rotate the
pump body counter-clockwise until the
belts have proper tension. Belts have
proper tension when the outer belt can be
pushed down approximately %" with
normal thumb pressure.
4. All capscrews in the clamp ring
may now be tightened.
CRANKING MOTOR
Assemble the cranking motor to the flywheel housing with its
mounting spacer and three lock washers and cap screws.
GENERATOR DRIVE UNIT
Use a new gasket. Install the generator drive assembly into
the rear of the flange on the cylinder block and secure with cap screws
and lock washers.
GENERATOR
1. Place the generator drive chain over the generator drive
sprocket.
2. Insert the generator coupling in the drive chain and secure
the generator in place.
After the generator is installed on the engine and reconnected,
disconnect the Field lead from the "F" terminal on the regulator and
then momentarily touch the field lead to the "AMM" terminal on the
regulator. Then reconnect the Field lead to the "F" terminal. This
correctly polarizes the generator and should be done before starting
251
REPAIR SECTION
the engine. This should be done after
any check, adjustment, repair, or install-
ation of the generator or regulator.
OIL FILLER AND GAUGE BRACKET
1. A bracket for the oil filler and oil
level gauge, which also acts as an inspec-
tion plate, is provided in the manifold
side of the block.
2. Install the bracket to the cylinder
block with a new gasket and insert the
bayonet oil level gauge in the oil gauge
tube.
AIR CLEANERS
1. With new gaskets and adapters as-
semble the air cleaners to their stud.
2. Secure in place with nuts and lock
washers.
LUBRICATION DURING REPAIR AND ASSEMBLY
CRANKSHAFT: 1. As the crankshaft is being laid, lubricate all
bearing surfaces on the crankshaft with clean fresh lubricating oil
(OE-30).
2. Lubricate all lockplates, bolts and stud nut threads for main
bearings with OE-30 oil before tightening the bearing caps in place.
It is impossible to get accurate readings on the torque wrench unless
all threads are properly oiled.
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL: 1. Thoroughly lubricate the asbestos
oil seal before assembling to place over the crankshaft flange.
CYLINDER LINERS: 1. After the cylinder block has been
thoroughly cleaned to receive the cylinder liners lubricate the block
with liquid soap or automobile soap at the points where the rubber
pack rings seal the liners in place. Do not use any other lubricant on
the rubber pack rings.
PISTON AND CONNECTING RODS: 1. Oil the cylinder liners
with OE-30 lubricating oil before inserting the piston assemblies.
2. Oil the piston pins at the points of clearance between the
connecting rod and the pistons with OE-30 oil.
3. Oil the connecting rod bearing shells and the connecting rod
bolt threads as the connecting rods are being installed to the crankshaft,
using OE-30 oil.
252
LUBRICATION DURING ASSEMBLY
LUBRICATING OIL PUMP: 1. If the lubricating oil pump has
been disassembled, oil the gears liberally with OE-30 as it is being re-
assembled. This insures fast priming of the pump.
CAM ROCKER LEVER ASSEMBLIES: 1. Oil the cam rockers
and shafts with lubricating oil.
ROCKER ARM HOUSING: 1. Oil the rocker levers and shafts
with lubricating oil as they are being assembled to the engine.
FUEL PUMP: 1. Before replacing the distributor cover to the
disc fill all fuel passages with a light grade (OE-10) lubricating oil.
2. Lubricate the metering plunger in the barrel with a light grade
(OE-10) lubricating oil.
3. Before replacing the governor housing to the governor unit of
the fuel pump lubricate the ball bearing shafts and all working parts
of the governor liberally with OE-30 lubricating oil.
4. Before starting the fuel pump after an overhaul of the gear
pump it is well to remove the pressure chamber and fill the Number 1
fuel pockets with clean fuel oil of the proper viscosity. Both Uie
Number 1 and Number 2 gears should be oiled in their pockets during
assembly to the fuel pump.
CRANKING MOTOR AND GENERATOR: 1. Put a few drops
of light lubricating oil at the oil holes of the cranking motor and battery
charging generator.
WATER PUMP: 1. Remove both oil plugs in the water pump
and fill with (WP) water pump grease, or (WB-2) general purpose
grease through one plug hole until the lubricant starts out at the other
open plug hole.
AIR CLEANERS: 1. Fill the oil sump of the air cleaners with
lubricating oil of the same grade as is used in the engine, dependent
upon weather conditions.
2. Dip the wire mesh screen of the air cleaners in a light grade
of lubricating oil.
AIR BREATHER: 1. Lubricate and treat the air breather the
same as the air cleaners.
253
REPAIR SECTION
ADJUSTMENTS
The adjustments and servicing instruc-
tions that follow are points which should
be taken care of by Maintenance and
Repair men following assembly and at
the intervals specified. Adjustments and
points of engine care that can be taken
care of by the operators will be found in
the Operation Section.
INJECTOR PLUNGER ADJUSTMENT
Check the injector adjustment before initial operation and once
every 256 hours of operation thereafter. Also check injector adjust-
ments after an overhaul or at any time when the operator is not sure
that the engine is ready to be operated.
1. To set the injector, pull the compression release lever as far
back as possible and hold it in this position. This allows the intake
valves to remain open. The engine may then be turned over without
working against compression.
2. Rotate the engine in its operating direction until Number 1
cylinder comes up on the compression stroke. (On the compression
stroke both the intake and exhaust valves will be closed with the com-
pression release in running position.) As the piston approaches top
center, the injector rocker lever (the center lever) will start moving
downward, pushing the injector plunger down with it.
3. When this injector rocker lever starts its downward movement,
continue to turn the engine (approximately Va turn) until the notch
marked "1 & 6 VS" on the water pump drive pulley registers with the
top center mark on the gear housing.
Number 1 cylinder is now in position to
adjust the injector.
4. Make sure that both intake and
exhaust valves are in closed position be-
fore adjusting the injector plunger.
5. With an injector adjusting tool,
push the injector plunger firmly in its
seat. Then with a screwdriver, turn the
adjusting screw down until it just bot-
toms. Now tighten the lock unit. Do
not tighten further or back off the ad-
justing screw.
254
ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS
Caution: Be careful not to adjust the
injectors too tightly, as this throws an
overload on the camshaft and cam rollers,
ultimately damaging these parts.
The injectors for only one cylinder can
be adjusted at one setting. Two complete
revolutions of the crankshaft are neces-
sary to adjust the injectors for all
cylinders.
VALVE ADJUSTMENTS
Check the valve adjustment before initial operation and once
every 256 hours of operation thereafter. Also check valve adjustments
after an overhaul or at any time when the operator is not sure that the
engine is ready to be operated.
1. The same engine position used in setting the injector is used
for setting the intake and exhaust valves.
2. Make sure the compression release is in running position be-
fore setting the intake valves.
3. Always make final valve adjustments when the engine is hot.
4. Set the intake valves at .014" and the exhaust valves at .022".
5. Turn the engine over until the next "VS" notch in the water
pump drive pulley indexes with the top center mark on the gear hous-
ing. This brings the cylinder next in the firing order to the correct
position for injector and valve adjustments.
6. Following this procedure, continue until all injectors and
valves have been set.
The valves, for only one cylinder can be adjusted at one setting.
Two complete revolutions of the crankshaft are necessary to adjust
the valves for all cylinders.
FUEL PUMP TIMING
Check the fuel pump timing before initial operation and before
operating the engine following overhaul jobs which might affect the fuel
pump timing.
1. Bar the engine over to Number One top center. The engine is
on Number One top center when the top center mark on the flywheel
lines up with the mark on the flywheel housing through the inspection
plate and if both intake and exhaust valves on Number One cylinder
are closed. If the top center mark shows on the flywheel Number One
exhaust and intake valves are not closed the engine is on Number Six
top center and it will be necessary to turn the crankshaft one complete
revolution.
2. Check the fuel pump timing marks on the water pump drive
pulley and the gear housing. This should show one and six top center.
255
REPAIR
SECTION
3. Check the distributor collar tim-
ing mark through the distributor housing
inspection hole.
These checks on fuel pump timing
are only necessary, (1) after the fuel
pump has been removed from the engine,
(2) or if the camshaft timing has been
changed, (3) or the fuel pump distributor
has been lifted from the fuel pump. The engine cannot get out of time
by itself.
DRIVE BELTS
Check tension of water pump belt every 64 hours of operation
and correct if needed.
The belts may be tightened by loosening the water pump clamp ring
and turning the water pump (which is on an eccentric) counterclockwise
to give the belts proper tension. The belts have proper tension when
they can be pushed approximately 3/4" with normal thumb pressure.
Belts are often neglected because a poorly adjusted belt does not
bring an immediate penalty. A belt which is too tight puts a strain on
gears, shaft and belt grooves. Loose belts slip, overheat and wear out
more quickly.
PRIMING THE ENGINE
When the engine is started for the first time or after it has been over-
hauled, the fuel system will be dry and it will be necessary to prime all
supply lines with clean fuel. For priming instructions, refer to page 80
of the Operation Section.
ADJUSTMENT OF IDLING GOVERNOR
After the fuel pump is installed on the engine and the engine is
running, the low speed or idling governor stop screw should be adjusted.
This adjustment is made by loosening the locknut and turning the
idling screw until the engine idles at between 450 and 500 RPM.
If more adjustment is required than the screw permits, readjust-
ment of the linkage to the idling control may be made. Make sure this
adjustment is made so that the idling lever holds the screw against the
stop on the pump body when in idling position.
CLEANING INJECTORS
The injectors should be checked for
clean spray holes every 512 hours of
operation. Refer to page 198 of Repair
Section for instructions.
TESTING COMPRESSION
Test the compression by barring the
engine over every 2048 hours of oper-
ation, and if necessary grind the valves.
256
ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS AND MAINTENANCE
GENERATOR CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
MAIN BRUSH PLATE
ASSEMBLY
CAPSCREW
BEAKING
HOUSING
COIL ASSEMBLY
THIRD BRUSH PLATE
ASSEMBLY
STUD 1 LEAD
OF GENERATOR
SPACER
BEARING
SPACER
ARMATURE
POLE SHOE SCREW
GENERATOR BRUSHES: The two main brushes should not be
shorter than 3A inch, third brush s/g inch (original length 1 3/32 inch,
third brush 1 inch). If worn down to, or almost to, this length, they
must be replaced. Brush spring tension must be sufficient to give good
clean contact of the brushes on the commutator, and the brushes must
be free to slide in their brush holders. The pigtail leads in the brushes
must be tight and the lead clips fastened well to the brush holders. The
generator has an adjustable third brush and can be adjusted as outlined
on page 223.
COMMUTATOR: The commutator must be smooth, round, with-
out excessive roughness, dirt, gum or burned areas. The slots between
the segments must be open and not filled with brush or copper dust.
The armature leads must be properly soldered to the commutator seg-
ments. If the commutator does not meet with the above, the generator
must be removed, disassembled, and the commutator serviced.
CONNECTIONS: The connections at the terminals should be
checked to make sure they are all tight and in good condition.
Periodic Disassembly: Every 512 hours the generator should be
removed from the engine, disassembled, and all parts cleaned and
inspected as outlined on page 220 of Repair Section. Generally
speaking, disassembly should be carried only so far as is necessary
to adequately inspect and clean the parts. For example, it will not be
necessary to disassemble the commutator end assembly except as re-
quired to replace defective parts. Likewise, the field windings and
terminal studs need not be removed from the field frame except for
replacement. Indiscriminate disassembly and assembly of such parts
may actually damage them, since it tends to weaken leads and con-
nections by stressing and bending them and may damage insulation
so that a short or ground will develop.
INSTALLATION CAUTION: After the generator is reinstalled
on the engine, or after any adjustments or bench tests of either the gen-
erator or regulator, the generator must be re-polarized to make sure that
it has the correct polarity with respect to the system. This must be
done before the engine is started.
To polarize the generator, disconnect the Field lead from the "F"
terminal on the regulator and then momentarily touch the field lead to
the "AMM" terminal at the regulator. Then reconnect the Field lead
to the "F" terminal.
REGULATOR CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
INSPECTION CHECKS: Inspection checks would normally in-
clude checking the electrical settings of the cut-out relay and voltage
regulator. But without the proper instruments, which include a volt-
meter and an ammeter, these checks cannot be made. Tampering with
the regulator by unauthorized or unequipped personnel can lead only
to damage to the electrical units. Increasing regulator settings beyond
their rated values may cause destruction of the generator or regulator,
overcharged and damaged batteries, and early failure of other electrical
equipment on the vehicle. Reducing regulator settings below the rated
values will result in undercharged batteries and inefficient operation
of the electrical equipment. The regulator settings are checked and
adjusted as outlined in the instructions which follow.
PERIODIC REGULATOR REPLACEMENT: At periodic inter-
vals, the regulator should be removed from the vehicle so that the con-
dition of the contact points, insulators, leads, etc., may be noted and
repairs made as necessary. In addition, the mechanical settings (air
gaps and point openings) may be readjusted, and the electrical settings
(cut-out relay closing voltage and voltage regulator setting) checked
and adjusted as necessary.
UPPER CONTACT SCREW
LOCK NUT
CONTACT POINTS
ARMATURE
FIBRE INSULATOR
ARMATURE
ARMATURE STOP
CONTACT POINT
OPENING
AIR GAP
LOWER CONTACT
BRACKET
SCREWS (A)
OF REGULATOR
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
LOCK SCREW
CUT-OUT RELAY
ECCENTRIC SCREW
ARMATURE SPRING
258
REPAIR SECTION
Mechanical Adjustments
a. CUT-OUT RELAY AIR GAP: The cut-out relay air gap
should be .057 inch and is measured between the armature and the core
with the points just touching. It is adjusted by loosening the two con-
tact bracket mounting screws and raising'or lowering the bracket as
required. Be sure points are lined up and tighten screws after adjust-
ment.
b. CUT-OUT RELAY POINT OPENING: The cut-out relay point
opening should be .020 inch and is adjusted by bending the upper
armature stop. If the points do not close at the same instant, the
contact bracket should be slightly realigned (and air gap reset) and
the spring fingers bent (only slightly) until they close simultaneously.
c. VOLTAGE REGULATOR POINT OPENING: The voltage
regulator point opening should be .015 inch and is checked with the
armature held down against the winding core. It is adjusted by loosen-
ing the lock nut and turning the contact screw. Care must be taken to
avoid distorting the contact spring. The correct procedure is to place
the screw-driver into the screw slot and hold the screw stationary while
the lock nut is loosened. The spring should rise slightly above the fibre
insulator when the points come together. This provides a wiping action
between the points which maintains better contact. After the correct
adjustment is made, tighten the lock nut by holding the screw stationary
with the screw-driver and tightening lock nut with wrench.
JUMPER LEAD BRIDGING VOLTAGE
'REGULATOR CONTACT POINTS
GENERATOR
Electrical Adjustments
a. CUT-OUT RELAY CLOSING VOLTAGE: The cut-out relay
closing voltage should be 13.5 volts and is checked by connecting the
regulator in the normal manner to the generator and a 12-volt battery,
with a voltmeter connected from the regulator armature terminal to the
regulator base. Slowly increase generator speed and note the voltage at
which the cut-out relay points close. Adjust by loosening the locking
screw and turning the eccentric. Increasing spring tension increases
closing voltage. After each adjustment, slow generator and bring back
to speed to check adjustment. Do not set closing voltage above the volt-
age required to operate the voltage regulator unit. If this occurs, the
259
REPAIR SECTION
voltage regulator will operate to prevent the voltage reaching the value
needed to close the relay contact points. NOTE: The relay must be
at operating temperature and in operating position (vertical) when
the closing voltage setting is made.
DISCONNECT
AMM" LEAD
GENERATOR
VOLTMETER
b. VOLTAGE REGULATOR SETTING: The voltage regulator
setting should be 15 volts and is checked by connecting the unit to the
generator in the normal manner excepting that the regulator "AMM"
terminal should be left disconnected. With this lead disconnected the
unit will be operating on open circuit. Connect a volt-meter from the
regulator 'ARM" terminal or the generator "A" terminal to the regu-
lator base. Operate generator at medium speed (1500 engine r.p.m.)
and note voltage at which regulator operates. The regulator must be
hotat operating temperature (145F.). Either heat regulator in an
oven to this temperature (avoid excessive baking or heat) or operate
the regulator for about 30 minutes with the cover in place, to obtain
this temperature. Adjust by loosening lock screw and turning eccentric.
Increasing spring tension increases voltage setting, while reducing tension
lowers setting. Tighten lock screw securely after completing adjust-
ments.
CRANKING MOTOR CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS
INSPECTION CHECKS: Inspection checks include a periodic
investigation of the condition of the battery, battery cables and connec-
tions, cranking motor solenoid switch, commutator, brushes, lead con-
nections and mounting.
a. BatteryThe condition of charge of the battery should be
noted as outlined on page 84 of the Operation Section.
b. Cranking Motor SwitchThe cranking motor solenoid switch
should operate without binding, shifting the drive into mesh promptly,
and when its circuit is opened, should release the contact disc with a
snap, releasing the shift lever quickly. The contact disc should be
making good clean contact with the terminals when in operation. (This
to be checked at the periodic teardown period).
260
1 COVER IAND
- BRUSH SPRING
' COMM. END FRJlME
IRONZE BEARING
DRIVE
DRIVE HOUSING
c. CommutatorThe armature commutator may be observed by
removing the cranking motor cover band. It should be clean, not out
of round or excessively worn, without high mica or burned bars. Arma-
ture leads must be properly connected to the commutator riser bars,
and the banding wire should be in place. Failure to meet these specifi-
cations requires that the armature be removed and the commutator
serviced as outlined on page 231.
d. BrushesThe brushes must be making good contact with the
commutator and should not be worn any shorter than 5/16 inch (from
an original length of Va inch). If worn down to, or almost to, this
length, replace.
e. Lead ConnectionsLead connections must be tight and in
good condition.
f. MountingMounting bolts must be tight.
g. Drive AssemblyThe drive assembly cannot be observed with
the cranking motor mounted on the engine, but its action can be noted
by observing the operation of the cranking motor.
PERIODIC DISASSEMBLY: At periodic intervals of 512 hours
of operation, the cranking motor should be removed from the engine,
disassembled and all parts cleaned and inspected as outlined on page
230 of Repair Section. This guards against failure of the equipment at
some critical instant, and must be considered an important part of the
preventive maintenance routine.
Cranking Motor Checks
DYER DRIVE ADJUSTMENTWhen the shift lever has moved
back against the cranking motor switch and completed its travel so that
the pinion is in the engaging position, it should be possible to move the
pinion back Vi" to 3/16" against the pinion spring. This travel can be
adjusted by removing the pin and cotter pin and turning the stud in or
out of the plunger as required. Adjustment must be accurate, since
261
improper adjustment might put sufficient thrust against the pinion guide
lugs to break them off.
NO LOAD TESTConnect the cranking motor in series with a
battery of the specified voltage and an ammeter capable of reading
several hundred amperes. If the r.p.m. indicator is available, read the
armature r.p.m. as well as the current draw with the unit running free
speed or no load. The armature should develop a speed of 6000 r.p.m.
at 85 amperes at 22 volts.
TORQUE TESTTorque testing equipment is required for con-
ducting a stall torque test of the cranking motor. The torque developed,
current draw, and voltage are checked together. The cranking motor
should develop 25 foot Ibs. lock torque at 500 amperes at three volts.
INTERPRETATION OF NO LOAD AND TORQUE TEST.
(a) Rated torque, current draw, and no load speed indicates
normal condition of the cranking motor.
(b) Low free speed and high current draw with low developed
torque may result from:
(1.) Tight, dirty, worn bearings, loose field poles which
allow armature to drag.
(2.) Grounded armature or field. Check by raising
brushes from armature commutator and testing with test
lamp and points from cranking motor terminal to frame and
from commutator to frame. If the lamp lights, a ground exists.
(3.) Shorted armature. Check armature on growler.
(c) Failure to operate with high current draw:
(1.) Direct ground in switch, at terminal or brushes.
(2.) Frozen shaft bearings which prevent armature from
turning.
(d) Failure to operate with no current/draw:
(1.) Open field circuit. Trace with test lamp and points.
(2.) Open armature coils.
(3.) Broken or weakened brush springs, worn brushes,
high commutator mica, or other conditions which would pre-
vent good contact between brushes and commutator.
(e) Low no-load speed with low torque and low current
draw indicates:
(1.) Open field. Trace circuit with test lamp and points.
(2.) High internal resistance due to worn brushes, dirty
commutator, weak or worn springs, and other causes of poor
contact between commutators and brushes.
(3.) Defective leads, connections.
(f) High free speed with low developed torque and high
current draw indicates shorted fields. It is difficult to detect shorted
fields with ordinary testing instruments, since the field resistance
is originally low. If shorted fields are suspected, install new fields
and check for improvement in performance.
262
263
WIRING DIAGRAM
SCRAPER HEAD -St
IGHT SWITCH LIGHT SWTCH AMMETER STARTER'
UNIT
Part Three
REPAIR SECTION
POWER CONTROL
MAIN GEARS
DRIVING
CONE
BRAKE
SHAFT
PINION REDUCTION
GEAR
CABLE
DRUM
BRAKE
BAND
DRIVEN
CONE
CROSS-SECTION VIEW OF POWER CONTROL UNIT
DISASSEMBLING POWER CONTROL UNIT
When disassembling a Power Control Unit to replace a worn part,
install new clutch or brake facings, remove bearing adjusting shims,
etc., the length of time that is consumed is quite often an important
matter, especially if the disassembly results in other equipment being
shut down during that period. Therefore, the instructions which follow
explain the quickest and easiest method of correctly removing and
disassembling each assembly or group of related parts.
266
REPAIR SECTION
REMOVING CABLE DRUM ASSEMBLIES
The cable drum assemblies can be removed without removing the
Power Control Unit from the Tournapull. To remove either the left or
right cable drum assembly first remove cable from cable drum. Then
proceed as follows:
1. Loosen clamp blocks which clamp rear
end of drum shafts to Power Control Unit rear
plate by loosening clamp bolts.
2. Then remove capscrews which secure
rear plate to Power Control Unit.
3. Remove rear plate and cable guards as
one unit by sliding them to the rear, off the
ends of the drum shaft, as illustrated. Also
remove brake band from drum that is to be
removed. (Refer to instructions for removal
of brake band on page 272 of the Repair
Section).
4. Remove either the right or left cable
drum assembly by turning drum shaft out of
clutch throw nut, using a wrench as illustrated.
Turn the left drum shaft clockwise and the
right drum shaft counter-clockwise. In this
operation it is necessary to support the cable
drum as illustrated in order to prevent dam-
aging the oil seal in the hub of the driving
cone as the drum shaft passes through the seal.
267
REPAIR SECTION
CABLE GUAR
DRIVEN CONE
CAPSCREW
DRUM SHAFT
SPRING-^
BOLT
SHIMS
BEARING CUP
BEARING CONE
OIL SEAL
BOLT
CAP
SHIM
REAR PLATE
APSCREW
CABLE DRUM
DISASSEMBLING CABLE DRUM
ASSEMBLIES
1. If spring at end of drum shaft is to be
removed, pull it out of end of shaft.
2. With hammer and punch, mark cable
drum and driven cone at the points shown.
This is done in order to insure proper align-
ment when reassembled.
3. Remove capscrews which secure driven
cone to cable drum. Then slide driven cone
off over end of drum shaft, being careful not
to damage hub oil seal.
268
POWER CONTROL UNIT REPAIR
DRIVEN CONE SPRING
X- OIL SEAL
SHIM / BEARING CUP
'BEARING CONE
DRUM SHAF
BEARING CONE'
BEARING CUP'
OIL SEAL'
CABLE DRUM
4. Remove bearing adjusting shims from
between cable drum and driven cone. To
avoid loss of shims wire them together.
SHIMS
5. Remove drum shaft from cable drum
by driving against short end of shaft, using a
wood block and sledge. The bearing cup at
opposite end of cable drum will be removed
during this operation.
6. If bearing cones are to be replaced,
drive or pull them off drum shaft. Also, the
cable drum oil seal and the remaining bearing
cup can be removed from the cable drum.
269
BEARINGS
DRUM SHAFT
R t P A I R SECTION
CONTROL UNIT
REMOVING MAIN GEAR AND DRIVING
CONE ASSEMBLIES
All parts of the main gear and driving cone
assemblies except the main gears can be re-
moved from the Power Control Unit without
removing the Power Control Unit from the
Tournapull. (To remove the main gears, the
Power Control Unit must first be removed
from the Tournapull and the adaptor neck
removed from the Power Control Unit.) To
remove and disassemble the left and right
main gear and driving cone assemblies, follow
the instructions below:
1. Remove cable drum assembly as out-
lined in preceding instructions. Then remove
driving cone by removing capscrews which
secure it to hub of main gear. Remove bearing
adjusting shims from back side of driving
cone. (To avoid loss of shims, wire them
together.) If driving cone oil seal is to be
replaced, remove it from hub of driving cone.
2. To remove clutch throw nut and main
gear bearings, loosen clamp bolt from brake
cam, and remove brake cam from clutch throw
nut. Then place a wood block against front
end of throw nut and drive it out of gear hub,
using a sledge, (if Power Control Unit has
been removed from Tournapull.)
3. If Power Control Unit has not been
removed from Tournapull, clutch throw nut
can be removed by moving main gear as far
to the rear in gear case as possible and then
inserting wood block between front end of
clutch throw nut and rear of Tournapull case
as illustrated. Then drive against gear hub
from rear, using wood block and sledge there-
by driving bearing cup out of the rear side of
gear hub. Avoid marring gear hub.
4. Lift clutch throw nut and main gear
bearings out of gear hub as one unit. If bear-
ings are to be replaced, either drive or pull
them off the throw nut.
5. The cover plate can be removed to
reach the main gears by first removing the
capscrews which secure the cover plate to
the case.
270
DRIVING CONE
BEARING CUP
BEARING CONE
CAPSCREW
OIL SEAL
CLUTCH THROW NUT
BEARING CONE
BEARING \ \ SEARING CUP
BUSHING MAIN GEAR
6. Strike cover plate a blow near center
with a hammer, thereby breaking cover plate
loose from gear case. Then pry cover plate
away from gear case as illustrated, using a
screw driver or similar tool. Care should be
used to pry cover plate off evenly in order to
avoid damaging oil seal and dowel pins.
Remove oil seal from cover plate if it is to be
replaced.
7. To remove the main gears, the Power
Control Unit should first be removed from the
Tournapull and the adaptor neck removed
from the Power Control Unit as outlined in
the instructions on page 274. (Both the right
and left throw-nuts must be removed before
either gear can be removed.)
8. The clutch throw nut bearing, oil seal,
and bushing can be driven out of the case if
they are to be replaced.
271
DISASSEMBLING POWER
CONTROL UNIT
REPAIR SECTION
REMOVING BRAKE ASSEMBLIES
All parts of the brake assemblies can be
removed without removing the Power Control
Unit from the Tournapull.
1. Before removing any part of either the
left or right brake assembly it is usually ad-
visable to first remove the brake spring.
2. To remove a brake band first remove
the rear plate and cable guards by removing
the capscrews that secure the rear plate to
the Power Control Unit. Then slide the rear
plate and cable guard to the rear, off the ends
of the drum shafts.
3. Then remove link pins which connect
brake links with brake shaft and gear case,
leaving brake links connected to brake band.
4. Slide brake band off over cable drum.
5. To remove a brake roller arm or brake
shaft it is not necessary that the brake band
and cable guard first be removed. The first
step in removing the roller arm is to release
the clamp bolt at the upper end of the roller
arm.
272
CASTELLATED NUT
BEARING CONE
BEARING CUP
-BRAKE SHAFT
LINK PIN
BRAKE LINK
. . BEARING CUP
OIL SEAL^-BEARING CONE
BRAKE ROLLER ARM
BRAKE BAND
BRAKE ROLLER
6. Remove the cotter pin and then turn
castellated nut- off the end of the brake shaft.
The roller arm can now be slipped off the
front end of the brake shaft.
7. If the brake shaft is to be removed,
drive it out of the gear case, using a wooden
block and hammer or pry bar. The rear
bearing cone and oil seal can then be removed
from shaft and the front bearing cone and
oil seal from housing. If bearing cups are to
be removed, pull them out of housing.
8. The spring arm can be removed from
the brake shaft by removing link pin.
273
DISASSEMBLING POWER
CONTROL UNIT
REPAIR SECTION
REMOVING ADAPTOR NECK FROM
POWER CONTROL UNIT GEAR CASE
To remove the adaptor neck from the
Power Control Unit gear case, first remove
the Power Control Unit from the Tournapull.
(Refer to instructions for removing Power
Control Unit from Tournapull.) Then pro-
ceed as follows:
1. Remove capscrews which secure the
neck to the gear case. (If the cable drum as-
semblies have not been removed from the
Power Control Unit, loosen the clamp bolts
at the rear of the drum shafts, insert a bar
between the cable drums and rear plate, and
pry the drum assemblies forward as far as
possible, to permit the neck assembly to clear
the main gears.)
2. Lower the neck enough to allow the
bearing plate at the rear end of the pinion
and reduction gear to pass under the main
gears, and then remove the neck from the
gear case.
DISASSEMBLING POWER CONTROL
UNIT ADAPTOR NECK
1. Remove the four capscrews which se-
cure the bearing plate to the neck and remove
the plate.
2. Slide pinion and reduction gear to the
rear far enough to allow the reduction gear
to be removed.
3. Drive against rear end of pinion with
wood block and hammer or sledge, forcing
pinion, bushing, bearing and oil seal out
through the hole in the face plate. Then drive
or pull bearing, oil seal and bushing off pinion
and remove bearings and bearing races from
neck.
274
PINION
275
GASKET
BEARING
BEARING
BEARING
BEARING
BUSHING
CAPSCREW
BEARING RACE
BEARING RACE
RETAINER PLATE
REDUCTION GEAR
REPAIR SECTION
INSPECTION OF PARTS FOR
REPLACEMENT OR REPAIR
Before re-assembling the Power Control Unit the following inspection
and care of parts should be made.
1. Carefully examine oil seals before re-installing. Replace any
oil seals which do not appear to be ;n good condition.
2. Make new oil seals pliable by soaking in light weight oil and
by running a round object, such as the shank of a screw driver or
hammer handle, around the inner circumference of the seal, thus work-
ing the leather.
3. Replace all working parts that are worn excessively.
4. Examine bearings before re-installing. Use none that may have
become Brinelled, pitted, or excessively worn.
5. Replace bearing cups when replacing bearing cones, and vice-
versa.
6. Examine clutch and brake facings before re-installing driving
cones or brake bands. Wash oil soaked woven facings with a suitable
solvent. Roughen with a rasp, woven facings that have become glazed.
Make sure facings are tight on driving cone or brake band before re-
installing. If driving cone has been newly relined with metallic facing,
the facing should be machined to 15 taper to take off any high spots.
7. Replace brake springs if they have become stretched and lost
their tension.
8. Keep all parts clean and free from foreign particles during
assembly.
276
ASSEMBLING POWER CONTROL UNIT
The procedure for assembling the Power Control Unit is the reverse
of that for disassembling the Unit. (Refer to disassembling instructions.)
The parts can be assembled in the following order:
BRAKE ASSEMBLIES
Install bearing cone (35) and felt seal (33) onto rear end of left
brake shaft (36), if removed. Also press bearing cups (41 and 34)
into front and rear ends of housing. Then insert brake shaft (36)
through housing from the rear and install remaining bearing cone (39)
and felt seal (40) over front end of shaft, up against the bearing cup.
(Note: During assembly, the brake shaft bearings should be handpacked
with lubricant, as outlined in Lubrication Instructions in the Operation
Section.) Install clamp bolt and lockwasher (37) at upper end of
brake roller arm (42) and install roller arm on end of brake shaft (36).
Install castellated nut (38) onto threads on end of shaft and tighten
nut to point where all end play of shaft is eliminated, but without drag
on the brake shaft bearings. Then install cotter, pin in end of shaft,
thereby locking nut (38), and tighten clamp bolt (37) in upper end
of roller arm (42).
277
Install the right brake shaft in a like manner.
The right brake band (2) and similar left brake band are installed
later during cable drum installation. Also, the right brake spring (28)
and similar left brake spring (not shown in the illustration) are usually
installed later, when the unit has been completely assembled.
CLUTCH THROW-NUT BUSHINGS, BEARINGS AND OIL SEALS
If left throw-nut bushing (50) has been removed from gear case,
press or drive replacement bushing into case. Insert bearing (49) inside
bushing. Do not install oil seal (47) in bushing (50) until after main
gear and driving cone assembly has been installed and the main gear
bearing adjustment made.
Install the right throw-nut bushing, bearing and oil seal in a like
manner.
MAIN GEAR AND DRIVING CONE ASSEMBLIES
Press or drive bearing cones (7) onto clutch throw-nut (27), if remov-
ed. Also press bearing cup (24) into hub of main gear (29). Raise main
gear into position in gear case. Insert throw-nut (27) into gear hub from
rear, with end of throw-nut extending out through throw-nut bushing.
Install remaining bearing cup (23) in gear hub from rear, not drawing
cup up tight against bearing cone until later. Press oil seal (20) into
cover plate (25) with heavy leather cupped toward inner side of plate.
Then install gasket and cover plate (25) in position, lining up dowel
pin holes with dowel pins, and install capscrews and lockwashers which
secure cover plate to gear case (30).
(Be careful not to damage or reverse leather in oil seal (20) when
installing cover plate.) Press oil seal (9) into hub of driving cone (21)
with leather cupped toward front side of cone. Raise driving cone (21)
into position against hub of main gear (29), inserting between the two
the number of shims required to correctly adjust the main gear bearings
(refer to main gear bearing adjustment instructions in the Repair
Section) and install capscrews and lockwashers (8), turning them up
tight. (When installing driving cone on gear hub, it is advisable to
insert two Vi" stud bolts in opposite capscrew holes in gear hub to
serve similar to dowel pins, in order to assure proper alignment of the
cone on the gear. The studs should be removed after the cone has been
secured to the gear and capscrews installed in their place. Use care
when installing the driving cone on the gear hub, to avoid peeling off a
burr which might become deposited between the gear hub and cone and
thereby cause misalignment ) After the main gear bearing adjustment
has been made, install oil*seal (same as 47), being careful not to damage
or reverse leather in oil seal. The brake cam (same as 44) can now be
installed on the front end of throw-nut (27).
Install the left main gear and driving cone assembly in the same
manner.
278
REPAIR SECTION
ASSEMBLING CABLE DRUM ASSEMBLIES
Press bearing cones (10 and 16) onto drum shaft (12), if removed.
Also press bearing cup (15) into rear end of cable drum (4). Insert
drum shaft into cable drum from front end and install remaining
bearing cup (18) in cable drum from front end, not installing it tight
against bearing cone until later. Place clutch driven cone (22) in position
against cable drum (4), inserting between the two the number of shims
required to correctly adjust the cable drum bearings (refer to cable
drum bearing adjustment instructions), and install capscrews and
lockwashers (19), drawing them up tight. After cable drum bearing
adjustment has been made, install oil seal (17) in front end of cable
drum, and oil seal (11) in rear end of cable drum, with leathers cupped
inward, being careful not to damage or reverse leather in oil seals.
(NOTE: During assembly, the cable drum bearings should be packed
with lubricant, as outlined in Lubrication Instructions in the Operation
Section.) Insert spring (26) in end of drum shaft (12).
The left cable drum assembly can be assembled in the same manner.
INSTALLING CABLE DRUM ASSEMBLIES
Raise drum assembly up to rear end of gear case and turn drum
shaft (12) into clutch throw-nut (27) using a wrench on rear end of
shaft. (Be very careful in this operation not to damage leather in oil
279
seal (9) as threads on end of shaft pass through seal.) Slide brake band
(2) over cable drum and onto driven cone (22). Connect outer end
of band with rear end of brake shaft (36), and inner end of band with
lug on gear case by means of brake links and pins (same as 1).
Install left cable drum assembly in a like manner.
If the cable guards (3) have been removed from rear plate (6),
reinstall by inserting between the two any shims that were removed
and installing the capscrews and lockwashers which secure the cable
guard to the rear plate. Install cable guards and rear plate as one unit
by sliding over cable drums and fasten rear plate to gear case by
inserting capscrews and lockwashers (5) in top and bottom of rear
plate. Then install cap (13) on drum shaft (12) by turning capscrews
(14) into tapped holes in rear plate.
ASSEMBLING NECK ASSEMBLY
Insert pinion (60) into neck from the front end. Slide bearing (59)
over front end of pinion, back against pinion gear. Press or drive bushing
(58) into place in neck. Press bearing race (53) into position. Also
install bearing (54) on end of reduction gear (52). Then, with pinion
moved as far to the rear as possible, place reduction gear (52) in mesh
with the pinion and slide reduction gear and pinion forward, into their
correct positions. Press oil seal (61) into place in neck. Then install
bearing race (57) and bearing (63) in position in lower end of bearing
plate (56), and also install bearing (55) in position in upper end of
bearing plate. Then place bearing plate (56) in position against neck
and install capscrews (31), turning capscrews up tight. The, neck can
now be installed in position on the Power Control Unit gear case.
INSTALLING NECK ASSEMBLY
When attaching the Model T Power Control Unit neck assembly to
the gear case, provision must be made to prevent the rear pinion bearing
from slipping off the end of the pinion. The following method may be
used in holding this bearing in place while the assemblies are put together.
A wooden wedge is driven into the neck from the front, between the
pinion and the bore. This wedge places a load on the bearing and holds
it in place. After the neck is assembled, the bearing is held in place by the
case, and the wedge can be removed.
Move the Power Control Unit main gears toward the front of the
gear case to install the neck assembly. Raise the neck to bring the reduc-
tion gear into mesh with the main gear after the neck has been positioned
against the case. Then install the capscrews and lockwashers which
secure the neck in position against the case.
Adjust the Power Control Unit clutches and brakes after the unit has
been installed on the Tournapull.
280
REPAIR SECTION
REMOVING POWER CON- I
TROL UNIT
To remove the Power Control Unit from
the Tournapull, follow the procedure below.
1. Lower the oil level in the Tournapull
main case below the Power Control Unit face
plate opening. Disconnect the Power Con-
trol Unit control rods and secure a hoist chain
to the Power Control Unit.
2. Remove the bolts which secure the
Power Control Unit to the deck plate. Also
remove the capscrews which secure the Power
Control Unit face plate to the rear of the
Tournapull case.
3. The Power Control Unit can now be
removed from the Tournapull by moving it
a short distance to the rear, far enough for
the spline shaft to clear the Power Control
Unit pinion, and then lifting it away from the
rear of the Tournapull.
4. The Power Control Unit spline shaft
can now be removed by pulling it off the rear
of the transmission countershaft.
INSTALLING POWER CONTROL UNIT
To install a Power Control Unit on the Tournapull, simply reverse
the above instructions for its removal.
In installing the Power Control Unit it may be necessary to place
the transmission in gear and then rotate the countershaft and spline
shaft by touching the starter button in order to cause alignment of the
splines on the pinion and spline shaft.
281
POWER CONTROL UNIT ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENTS
CABLE DRUM BEARING ADJUSTMENT
Occasional adjusting of the Power Control Unit cable drum bearings
is necessary because of bearing wear.
Check the cable drum bearing adjustment every 256 hours of oper-
ation.
To check the adjustment
insert a pry bar between the
rear plate and cable drum,
and firmly engage and dis-
engage the clutch while pry-
ing against cable drum with
the bar. If the drum bearings
are loose the cable drum will
move back and forth on the
drum shaft, and the end of
the bar will also move. The
"feel of this movement will be
very noticeable to the one
holding the end of the bar.
If movement is noticeable,
the bearings are loose and an
adjustment should be made.
For a more accurate check, clamp a dial indicator against cable drum,
and repeat above operation, noticing end movement as recorded on
indicator.
IF BEARINGS ARE LOOSE
If the Unit should be operated with the bearings in either cable
drum in a loose adjustment, the cable drum and clutch driven cone
would assume an off-center position on the drum shaft and would be
in misalignment with the clutch driving cone, as shown in the drawing,
thus causing spongy, erratic clutch action. With loose bearings, the
driven cone might move to the front or rear with the driving cone as the
control lever is moved, thereby preventing proper releasing of the clutch,
and causing the throw of the control lever to be increased, possibly re-
sulting in the throw of the control lever being too
great for efficient operation. It might also cause
the driven cone to drag on the driving cone when
the control lever is in neutral position, resulting
in over-heating of the clutch, which in turn might
cause oil seal leakage due to hardening of the
leather in the seals. Also, loose cable drum bear-
ings might result in cable breakage, due to a de-
lay in quick clutch disengagement.
282
REPAIR SECTION
To make cable drum bearing ad-
justment first remove cable drum
assembly from Unit. (Refer to dis-
assembly instructions on Page 267 of
the Repair Section). Then proceed
as follows:
:. MAKING CUI'
. J--MAR1NG CO
W'NO-V ,. , . >
:APSCREW
CABlt OIUM
PUNCH MARK
1. With hammer and center punch
mark cable drum and driven cone at
points illustrated in order to assure
proper alignment when reassembled.
2. Remove capscrews which se-
cure driven cone to cable drum. Then
slide driven cone off drum shaft, be-
ing careful not to damage oil seal.
3. Remove bearing adjusting shim
(or shims) from between driven cone
and cable drum to take up adjust-
ment. (Shims are of two thicknesses,
.004" and .007", in order to make pos-
sible a fine variation in adjustment.)
Remove shims one at a time in mak-
ing adjustment.
283
REPAIR SECTIO'N
4. Reinstall driven cone on cable
drum, lining up center punch marks
on cone and drum. (This operation
is done only to determine bearing
tightness. Therefore, it is only nec-
essary to install capscrews in every
third capscrew hole. Do not use lock-
washers in this operation due to dam-
age to washers.) Turn capscrews up
tight. If new oil seals are to be in-
stalled leave them out until after
the following test has been made.
5. Test adjustment by turning
drum shaft in cable drum, using both
hands. If adjustment is correct there
will be a definite drag on the drum
shaft during this operation. Unless
there is a noticeable drag on the drum
shaft the bearings are still loose and
another shim must be removed. Re-
peat the above operation until the
correct adjustment is reached.
6. In event the bearings are
drawn up so tight in the above oper-
ation that the drum shaft cannot be
turned by hand, it will be necessary
to again remove the driven cone and
then drive against the short end of
the drum shaft, using a wooden block
and sledge, thereby freeing the bear-
ings. Then add one .004" shim and
repeat operations 4 and 5.
7. When correct adjustment is
reached, install capscrews and lock-
washers in driven cone, drawing them
up tight. If oil seals have been omit-
ted or if release spring has been re-
moved from end of drum shaft, in-
stall them in place. Then reinstall
drum assembly in Unit.
Note: The cable drum bearings
should be hand-packed with lubricant
whenever the drum assembly is dis-
assembled. This should therefore be
done when making the above adjust-
ment. (Refer to Power Control
Unit Lubrication instructions in Op-
eration Section.
284
POWER CONT ROL UNIT ADJUSTMENTS
MAIN GEAR BEARING ADJUSTMENT
Occasional adjusting of the main gear bearings is necessary because
of bearing wear.
Check the main gear bearings for looseness every 256 hours of oper-
ation.
1. Fully engage clutch, using considerable force on con-
trol lever. With clutch engaged, wedge driving cone
tightly into driven cone by driving two chisels or wedges
between driving cone and cover plate on opposite sides
of cone. Also disconnect neutral position spring.
2. If dial indicator is available, clamp indicator to unit
with the contact point bearing against end of clutch throw
nut at center. Move control lever or brake cam slowly
out of fully engaged position, back toward neutral, using
little force. In other words, take up only the free travel
of the control lever. (Check to make sure driving cone is
not moving in and out by placing finger between driving
cone and cover plate with which to feel any movement.)
While moving lever or brake cam back and forth, check
reading on indicator. If bearings are loose, throw nut will
move in and out and indicator will show within approxi-
mately .002" amount bearings are loose. (As much as
.002" of movement may not be due to loose bearings.)
3. If indicator is not available, fully engage clutch and
drive wedges behind cone as in Step 1. Scribe a mark
part way around clutch throw nut with a sharp tool such
as a knife. (Mark should be right up against throw nut
oil seal. Then move control lever or brake cam as in
Step 2, while closely watching mark on throw nut. If
bearings are loose, throw nut will move in and out and
this movement will be visible to the eye when watching
mark. The amount of movement determines extent to
which bearings are loose.
If dial indicator shows an end movement of as much
as .005" (Step 2), or if there is visible end movement of
mark (Step 3), an adjustment should be made.
IF BEARINGS ARE LOOSE
If the Power Control Unit should be operated with the gear bearings
in a loose adjustment, the driving cones may become misaligned with
driven cones, thus causing spongy, erratic, clutch action. Also, the driving
cones may "hang-up" in the driven cones when disengaging the clutches,
resulting in cable breakage. In addition, the clutch cones may drag when
in neutral position, resulting in over-heating of the unit. This in turn
may cause oil seal failure.
285
REPAIR
HOW TO MAKE MAIN GEAR
BEARING ADJUSTMENT
To make main gear bearing ad-
justment first remove cable drum as-
sembly from unit. (Refer to disas-
sembly instructions on page 268 of
Repair Section). Also remove neutral
position spring from lower end of
brake cam. Then proceed as follows:
1. Remove brake cam from clutch
throw nut.
2. Turn clutch throw nut by hand
in order to feel amount of drag on
throw nut caused by oil seals. (If
bearings are loose, the only drag on
throw nut will be from oil seals and
this will be very little.)
3. Remove capscrews which se-
cure driving cone to hub of main gear.
Then remove driving cone.
4. Remove bearing adjusting shim
(or shims) from between driving
cone and gear hub in order to take up
adjustment. (Shims are of two thick-
nesses, .004" and .007", in order to
make possible a fine variation in ad-
justment.) Remove shims one at a
time in making adjustment.
286
SECTION
5. Re-install driving cone on gear
hub. (This operation is done only to
determine bearing tightness. There-
fore, it is only necessary to install
capscrews in every third capscrew
hole. Do not use lockwashers in this
operation due to damage to washers.)
Turn capscrews up tight.
6. Check bearing tightness by feel-
ing the drag on the throw nut as in
Step 2. The bearings are correctly
adjusted when all end play of the
throw nut in the gear hub has been
eliminated, without the bearings caus-
ing a heavy drag on the throw nut.
(The drag may be slightly more than
that caused by oil seals alone, as felt
in Step 2, but should not be great
enough to prevent the throw nut from
being turned with one hand.) In
event the bearings are drawn up so
tight in the above operation that there
is a heavy drag on the throw nut, it
will again be necessary to remove the
driving cone and then free the bear-
ing as follows:
7. If unit is removed from Tourn-
apull, free the bearings by driving
against front end of throw-nut, using
wood block and sledge. If unit is
installed on Tournapull, move throw-
nut to the rear in the gear case as far
as possible, and then insert a wood
block between front end of throw-nut
and rear of Tournapull. Then drive
against gear hub from the rear to free
the bearing, using a wood block and
sledge to avoid marring face of gear
hub. Readjust bearings by adding
one .004" shim and repeating opera-
tions 5 and 6.
8. When correct adjustment is
reached, install capscrews and lock-
washers in driving cone, drawing them
up tight. Examine oil seal in hub of
driving cone and replace if necessary.
Then re-install drum assembly, cable
guards, and rear plate.
287
BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
The Power Control Unit brake adjustments are of a type which can
be taken care of by operators. For instructions refer to Operation Section.
CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT
The Power Control Unit clutch adjustments are of a type which can
be taken care of by operators. For instructions refer to Operation Section.
BRAKE SHAFT BEARING ADJUSTMENT
The Power Control Unit brake shaft bearing adjustments can be
taken care of by the operators. For instructions refer to Operation
Section.
LUBRICATION
Refer to the Operation Section for complete lubrication instructions.
CLUTCH AND BRAKE FACINGS
TYPES OF FACINGS
LeTourneau Power Control Units may be equipped with eithei
woven or metallic clutch and brake facings. Both types of facings used
are of the highest grade, and both have a comparatively high co-efficient
of friction. The metallic lining is especially resistant to wear, and ordi-
narily lasts somewhat longer than the woven lining.
CARE OF FACINGS
The clutch and brake facings usually require very little attention
after having been properly installed. There are, however, a few things
that can be done to the facings under certain conditions which help the
operation of the Power Control Unit. There are also other practices which
are sometimes resorted to which do not help the operation and which
should be avoided, as discussed below.
(a) WOVEN. FACINGS:
Woven facings must be kept free of oil if proper operation is to be
expected. If oil or grease should leak onto the facings, the cause of this
288
REPAIR
oil leakage should be determin-
ed, and the necessary corrections
should be made. Unless the
clutch and the brake facings are
too badly oil soaked, the oil can
usually be removed from the
facing by washing the facing in
a suitable solvent.
Facings sometimes become
glazed after they have become
worn, and in a case of this kind,
the surface of the facings may
be roughened with a rasp to
improve operation, and to pre-
vent having to replace the lining
before it has received its maxi-
mum amount of wear.
If the clutch or brake fac-
ings overheat during operation
do not pour water on them to cool them off. Instead, check the Unit and
the operation to determine the cause of the overheating, and allow the
lining to cool slowly by its contact with the air. Pouring cold water on a
hot clutch will often cause the clutch cones to warp.
The most common causes of overheating of either the clutches or
brakes are improper adjustment and slow engaging and disengaging of
the clutch and brake by the operator.
(b) METALLIC FACINGS:
To obtain the maximum usefulness from metallic clutch and brake
facings, a small amount of light weight oil, such as fuel oil, may be
poured on them each day. This helps to keep the facings free from dust
and other foreign particles, and makes for longer facing life.
(NOTE: It is recommended that if the clutch facings are metallic,
the brake facings should also be metallic, and vice-versa. This is due to
the fact that oil may be applied to one type facing but must not be applied
to the other, and it is practically impossible to apply oil to either the
clutch or brake facing without the oil also leaking onto the other.)
If either the clutch or brake should overheat during operation, do not
pour cold water onto the facings to cool them off. Cold water applied to
a hot clutch sometimes causes the clutch cones to warp. If overheating
does occur, determine the cause, and make the necessary corrections.
The most common causes of overheating of either the clutches or brakes
are improper adjustment and slow engaging and disengaging of the
clutch by the operator.
289
REPAIR SECTION
RE-LINING CLUTCH DRIVING CONES
(a) WOVEN CLUTCH FACINGS:
To install a new facing on a driving cone, remove the cone from the
Power Control Unit. (Refer to disassembly instructions.) Remove the
worn facings and rivets from the
cone. Proceed with the installa-
tion by heating the new facing
either in hot water or in an oven,
causing it to expand. Then place
the facing on a bench with the
smaller diameter on the bottom,
or in an up-turned driven cone.
Lower the unlined driving cone
into the heated facing, making
certain that the cone and facing
are in perfect alignment with
each other. Also, in doing this,
line up the seam in the lining
with the proper rivet holes in
the cone, as illustrated.
Place the cone and facing
under a press and force the cone
tight into the facing. (If a press
is not available, other means of exerting heavy pressure on the cone may
be used.) Make certain that the cone is not obstructed from being
pressed extremely tight in the facing because of coming in contact with
the bench during this operation. (Other methods of installing the facings
are also sometimes used with fairly satisfactory results, such as hammer-
ing the facing tight onto the cone, etc.) Check to determine whether the
facing is tight on the cone by striking around the surface of the facing
with a hammer. If the facing is tight, a clear "ring" will be heard. Any
points where the facing is not tight will show up by giving off a dull noise
with no "ring". Drill or punch rivet holes into the facing, making them
line up with the rivet holes in the cone. Counterbore each rivet hole to a
depth not less than half the thickness of the facing, and not more than
2/3 the thickness of the facing, using a 3/8" counterbore. Then insert
the rivets and rivet the facing to the cone.
Unless the facing is installed exceptionally tight on the cone, spongy
clutch action may result. If the facing should be installed eccentric and
out of alignment with the cone, clutch drag will occur and the clutch will
overheat.
290
(b) METALLIC CLUTCH FACINGS:
Metallic clutch facings come in segments, shaped to fit the outer
circumference of the driving cone, and with the rivet holes already drilled
in them. To install the segments on the cone, merely line the holes in the
segments up with the holes in the outer circumference of the cone, and
rivet the facing to the cone. The rivets should be drawn down very tight
in order to prevent the segments from breaking loose when the cone is
placed in operation. Only steel rivets should be used.
If possible, the newly lined cones should be placed in a lathe and
any high spots or irregularities in the thickness of the different segments
machined off. (The facings should be machined to a 15 taper.)
If the clutch surface of the driven cone has worn rough or grooved,
it may be advisable to either replace the cone or to machine a very thin
cut off the surface of the cone. This machining should also be done on a
15 taper.
RE-LINING BRAKE BANDS
(a) WOVEN LINING:
To re-line a brake band with woven lining, first remove the brake
band from the Power Control Unit. (Refer to disassembly instructions.)
Extend the brake lining around the inner circumference of the brake
band, and rivet one end of the
lining to the band. Push the
lining snug against the band with
the hand, around the entire cir-
cumference of the band. Then
move the lining back about 1/4"
at the unriveted end, and install
the rivets at this end of the band.
A small hump will be formed by
the lining at the center of the
band with this procedure, which
should be forced down, causing
the lining to be pressed very
tight against the brake band.
Then install the remaining rivets.
To install the rivets, drill or
punch the rivet holes in the lin-
ing, and counterbore these holes
to a depth of not less than 1/2
and not more than 2/3 the thickness of the lining to provide for the heads
of the rivets. Use a 3/8" counterbore. Then install the rivets, clinching
them down very tight.
291
REPAIR SECTION
(b) METALLIC LINING:
To reline a brake band with metallic lining, first remove the brake
band from the Power Control Unit. (Refer to Disassembly Instructions.)
Remove the worn segments and rivets from the brake band.
To install the new segments, place them in position on the inner
circumference of the brake band, line the rivet holes in each segment up
with the corresponding rivet holes in the brake band, and rivet the seg-
ments to the band, using steel rivets. Draw the rivets up very tight in
order to prevent the segments from breaking loose when the brake band
is placed in operation.
BRAKE BAND WITH
WOVEN FACING
DRIVING CONE
WITH WOVEN
FACING
BRAKE BAND WITH
METALLIC FACING
DRIVING CONE
WITH METALLIC
FACING
292
Part Four
SCRAPER
REPAIR SECTION
REPAIR SECTION
DISASSEMBLING SCRAPER
The instructions on the pages which follow give complete informa-
tion needed for disassembling the Carryall Scraper. Instructions for
disconnecting the Scraper from the Tournapull will be found in the
Tournapull Repair Section.
REMOVING AND DISASSEMBLING REAR WHEELS
To remove the rear wheels from the
Scraper, first raise the wheels off the ground.
To do this, raise the blade and place blocks
under the bowl just back of the balance point.
Then lower the Scraper bowl. This will tip
the front of the Scraper forward, raising the
rear wheels.
Remove the wheel and axle assembly by
removing the clamp blocks from the ends of
the axles. Also remove the bolts connecting
the brake anchor plate with the Scraper
body, and disconnect the hydraulic brake
tubing. Then hoist the Scraper bowl enough
to lower the Scraper wheels to the ground
and then enough more to permit the wheels
to be rolled away from the Scraper.
To remove a wheel from an axle, first re-
move the hub cap from the inner side of the
wheel and then loosen the adjusting nut
clamp bolt and back off the adjusting nut.
The brake backing-plate assembly can be
slipped off over the outer end of the axle.
Proceed by removing the capcrews which
secure the oil seal retainer plate to the outer
end of the wheel hub. Then drive against the
axle from the inner end, forcing the inner
bearing cone off the axle. Remove the axle
from the wheel hub. The remaining bearing
cone can be removed from the axle and the
bearing cups removed from the wheel hub if
desired. If the brake drum is to be removed
from the wheel, place corresponding marks on
the drum and wheel to assure installation in
the same position when re-installing.
NOTE: The procedure for removing and install-
ing the rear tires is the same as that for removing
or installing the front tires, as outlined in the
Tournapull Repair Section.
294
SCRAPER REPAIR
DISASSEMBLING AND SERVICING WHEEL BRAKES
To disassemble a brake backing
plate assembly, first remove the back-
ing plate assembly from the axle as
previously outlined, and then simply
remove the bolts and pins connecting
the various parts to the backing plate.
CAUTION: Prevent brake fluid
from coming in contact with brake
linings either by dripping or from
soiled hands. Do not attempt to re-
line brakesuse only genuine Bendix
replacement shoes.
SERVICING WHEEL CYLINDERS
The wheel cylinders have two opposed pistons. Each piston transfers
hydraulic pressure into equal mechanical force, expanding the brake shoe
to which it is connected into contact with the brake drum.
WHEEL
CYLINDER
The cylinder has two boots to protect the internals from foreign
matter, two pistons which are connected to the brake shoes, two cups
which seal the cylinder, one spring, one inlet fitting which is the means
of connecting the cylinder to the system, and one bleeder screw used
in expelling air from the system.
After dismantling a wheel cylinder, inspect the following:
(a) If mineral oil is present in the system, the rubber cups will be
enlarged and very soft. They cannot be used and it is necessary to
discard.
(b) Cylinder walls must be smooth and not pitted nor scratched.
(c) Pistons must be free from burrs.
(d) Occasionally grease retainers become worn allowing grease from
the wheel bearings to leak through into the brake drum. When grease
comes into contact with the rubber boots they become soft and enlarged,
preventing them from protecting the cylinder from foreign matter. If
this occurs, replace boots and grease retainer.
Cylinder and parts must be washed in clean alcohol and dipped in
hydraulic brake fluid (HB) before assembling. Do not wash cylinder or
parts in gasoline, kerosene, or oil.
295
SCRAPER REPAIR
DISASSEMBLING
WHrEL
OLIER PIN
ADJUSTING NUT
PUShfflSAM
REMOVING SHEAVE WHEELS, BEARINGS,
PINS, ETC.
To remove the sheave wheels, bearings,
pins, etc., first remove cotter pin from end of
the sheave pin, pull sheave pin out the side
of the sheave housing and then remove sheave
wheel from sheave housing. Then remove
dust seals from hub of sheave wheel and
slide sheave bearing out of hub.
REMOVING TAILGATE ROLLERS,
BEARINGS, PINS, ETC.
To remove the tailgate rollers, bearings,
pins, etc., first remove cotter pin or lock pin
from end of roller pin. Pull roller pin out the
side of the roller housing and remove roller,
raising tailgate arm if necessary and then
remove dust seals and bearing from roller.
Before removing the large rollers at the
rear of the tailgate, it is first necessary to pull
the tailgate ahead to the point where the
rollers line up with the round holes in the
sides of the Scraper bowl provided for the
purpose of removing these rollers.
REMOVING FAIRLEAD SHEAVE HOUSINGS
AND BEARINGS
To remove either of the fairlead sheave
housings, first release the clamp bolt and re-
move the adjusting nut from the bracket in
which the sheave housing pivots. Then re-
move the housing from the bracket and
remove the bearing cones and cups.
REMOVING REAR HITCH
To remove the rear hitch, simply remove
the bolts which secure the hitch to the rear of
the main body structure.
REMOVING PUSHBEAM
To remove the pushbeam, first lower the
Scraper onto blocks. Remove hoist cable from
pushbeam and then remove pushbeam hinge
pin by first removing cotter and then driving
pin out of pushbeam. The pushbeam is now
free to be removed from the Scraper by slid-
ing it to the rear through the upper sheave
housing at the top of the arched "A" frame.
296
REPAIR SECTION
DISASSEMBLING
REMOVING YOKE
To remove the yoke, first disconnect the
Tournapull from the Scraper as per instruc-
tions in Tournapull Repair Section. Also
raise apron enough to clear head of yoke hinge
pin and block apron in this position. Con-
nect a hoist chain around top of yoke and
raise yoke only enough to remove weight
from yoke hinge pins. Remove cotter pins
and castellated nuts from end of hinge pins
and then remove pins. Then remove yoke
from main body structure with a hoist.
REMOVING HITCH BALL FROM YOKE
To remove the hitch ball from the yoke,
first disconnect the Tournapull from the
Scraper as per instructions in Tournapull Re-
pair Section. Then remove the capscrews
which secure the hitch ball keeper block to
the yoke, thereby freeing the hitch ball from
the yoke. Avoid loss of shims.
REMOVING BLADES
Raise Scraper bowl and place blocks un-
der bowl to keep it from dropping. Also
raise apron and place blocks between apron
arms and side sheets to keep it from dropping.
Then, using a blade wrench, remove the bolts
that secure the blades to the blade base. (See
"Changing Blades" in Operation Section for
further details.)
REMOVING GROUND PLATES
To remove the ground plates, first block
the apron arms and bowl in the raised position
as when removing blades. Then remove the
bolts which secure the ground plates to the
Scraper side sheets. (See "Changing Ground
Plates" in Operation Section for further de-
tails.)
REMOVING APRON
To remove the apron, first remove the
apron cable, and wrap a hoist chain around
the front of each apron arm. Then remove
the apron hinge pins by first removing the
lock screws from the head of each pin and
then driving out the hinge pins. The apron
is now free to be hoisted out of the Scraper.
HITCH
BALL
297
SCRAPER REPAIR
REMOVING TAILGATE RETURN SPRINGS FROM SPRINGPIPE
When removing the tailgate return springs from inside the springpipe,
it is first necessary to compress the springs by placing a 4" x 4" x 72"
block against the spring pull plate and the "A" frame at the top of the
yoke, as was done in replacing the springpipe cable (see page 112 of the
Operation Section). Remove from the spiral sheave the cable wedge
that secures the springpipe cable to the spiral sheave. Then, with the
Scraper bowl lowered, the 72" block in place, and the dead end cable
wedge removed from the spiral sheave wheel, gradually raise the scraper
bowl, thereby permitting all of the spring tension to be released. The
springs can then be removed from the upper end of the springpipe.
REMOVING TAILGATE
Tailgates in Carryall Scrapers are very seldom removed. However,
this can be done, as is outlined below.
To remove the tailgate, first disconnect the spiral sheave-to-tailgate
cable at the cable wedge on the rear of the tailgate. In doing this, it is
necessary to relieve the cable of tension by pulling tailgate forward a
short distance and then inserting a bar through the pipe plug holes in
the sides of the springpipe. Then release the Power Control Unit brake
for the dump cable, moving the control lever into lock-out position. Due
to the bar being inserted through the upper end of the springpipe, the
springs cannot return the tailgate to the rear, so it is necessary to pry it
a short distance to the rear, using a bar. The spiral sheave-to-tailgate
cable can then be disconnected from the back side of the tailgate by re-
moving the cable wedge.
Pull the tailgate forward to the position where the large rollers at the
rear of the tailgate are in line with the corresponding holes in the sides
of the Scraper. Then remove these large tailgate rollers and pins. Pull
the tailgate to the front of the bowl and then remove the cable wedges
which secure the cable to both sides of the tailgate. Tie hoist chains
to both sides of the tailgate, straddling the springpipe. Then hoist the
tailgate up under the springpipe as high as possible, and while hoisted,
move the left side of the tailgate to the rear and the right side forward.
Block up tailgate in this position and untie hoist chain from right side of
tailgate. Now pass hoist chain under springpipe and again hook chain to
right side of tailgate, leaving some slack in chain so that when tailgate
is hoisted, the left side is hoisted first. Now hoist tailgate out of body,
continuing to turn tailgate sideways while hoisting.
298
REPAIR SECTION
INSPECTION OF PARTS FOR REPLACE-
MENT OR REPAIR
Other than inspection and replacement of worn sheaves, rollers,
bearings, oil seals, pins and other parts, practically the only type of re-
pairs ever required on LeTourneau Carryall Scrapers are welding re-
pairs.
If any welded member of a Carryall Scraper should crack or start
to break through severe abuse, the Scraper should be stopped immediate-
ly and the crack welded up and reinforced before the damage becomes
serious.
Only alloy steel should be used in reinforcing LeTourneau Scrapers
and coated arc electrodes used in welding.
T, , , , , , STEEL REINFORCING BARS
To correctly repair a break m a weld or
a crack appearing on a boxbeam, first "V" out
the old weld or crack and re-weld, filling the
V'd out section with weld metal, flush with the
surface of the boxbeam. Then reinforce the
point of failure by placing steel bars across
the break or crack as illustrated, welding
them along both sides but leaving both ends
unwelded.
BREAK OR CRACK
If, after a long period of operation, the blade base should become
worn back through the bolt holes as a result of neglect to change the
blades, a new blade base can be installed without difficulty if the pro-
cedure below is followed:
First, cut the worn blade base from one end to the other along the
top edges of the bolt holes, as illustrated.
After having trimmed the old blade base, the new blade base may
be laid on top of the old one, with the top edge flush with the scraper
bottom. Clamp it in position with "C" clamps. Then weld it to the old
blade base along both the top and the bottom edges as illustrated.
O10 WO* KAM IAH
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Install new blade base reinforcing ribs between the old ones, letting
them extend down onto the new blade base. It will be necessary to heat
and bend the new reinforcing ribs to make them fit around the old blade
base and up against the new one.
299
SCRAPER REPAIR
BRAKE OHUM
RE-ASSEMBLING
The instructions for re-assembling a Carryall Scraper are the reverse
of those for disassembling.
When re-assembling, keep all bearings and working parts free of
dirt, grit, or other foreign matter. Do not replace bearing cups without
also replacing bearing cones, and vice-versa.
Soak in oil any oil seals in which the leather has become dry and
hard, before installing. Also, rub oil seal leathers with some smooth
round object such as a hammer handle.
The wheel hub oil seals should be installed with leather cupped in-
ward toward the grease chamber.
When installing the hitch ball in its socket in the yoke, use only
enough shims between the keeper block and the yoke to eliminate up
and down movement of the hitch ball in its socket. The hitch ball should
be free to turn when the capscrews are drawn up tight.
For instructions for installing blades or ground plates, see "Changing
Blades" or "Changing Ground Plates" in the Operation Section.
If installing replacement brake
drums on the rear wheels, it is
necessary that they be machined
to run true with the wheel. First
install wheel on axle and adjust
wheel bearings. Then install brake
drum in position on wheel. (Make
sure there are no foreign particles
between brake drum and wheel.
Place wheel assembly in a lathe
and machine drum to dimensions
shown on accompanying drawing.
Lubricate all points of lubri-
cation before placing the Scraper
in operation. (Refer to lubrication
instructions in Operation Section.)
During assembly, make all ad-
justments as outlined in the follow-
ing adjustment instructions.
CLEAN TW1S SU**ACE
OF IftftKULANmCS
MACHINE SURFACES
IN HEAVY OUTLINE TO
DIMENSIONS SHOWN,
AFTCH DWUM IS MLTCD
TO WHEEL
ADJUSTMENTS
There are three points of adjustment on the Scraper requiring at-
tention at periodic intervals. These points of adjustment are the hy-
draulic brakes, wheel bearings, and fairlead sheave housing bearings. The
hydraulic brake instructions are in the Operation Section, and the other
adjustments follow.
300
REPAIR SECTION
WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT
Check the Scraper wheel bearings
for looseness every 64 hours of oper-
ation.
To check the wheel bearings, first
raise the rear wheels off the ground.
To raise the wheels, raise the bowl and
place blocks under the bowl just back
of the balance point. Then lower the
Scraper bowl. This will tip the front
of the Scraper forward, raising the
rear wheel.
Insert a pry bar between the
wheel and body structure (hydraulic
brakes disengaged). Pry back and
forth with the bar, noticing any move-
ment of the wheel on the axle. If
there is noticeable movement, the
bearings are loose and an adjustment
should be made.
To make the adjustment, first re-
move the capscrews which secure the
hub cap to the inner side of the
wheel and then slide the hub cap
back on the axle, away from the
wheel.
Start the wheel rotating slowly.
While rotating, turn adjusting nut in
a clockwise direction until wheel
binds heavily. Then relieve binding
by backing off adjusting nut Va turn.
Lock adjustment by tightening ad-
justing nut clamp bolt. Check ad-
justment by rotating wheel, making
sure it is free rolling without notice-
able end play. If adjustment is cor-
rect, re-install hub cap, being careful
not to reverse grease seal when sliding
it back over the axle.
301
REPAIR SECTION
FAIRLEAD SHEAVE HOUSING
BEARING ADJUSTMENT
Check the fairlead sheave housing
bearings for looseness every 128 hours
of pperation.
To check the adjustment, insert
a pry bar between the end of the
sheave housing and the bracket in
which it is held. Then, by prying back
and forth with the bar, detect any end
movement of the housing in the
bracket. If end movement is notice-
able, an adjustment should be made.
To make the adjustment, first
loosen the clamp bolt from the sheave
bracket.
Turn the adjusting nut at the end
of the housing in a clockwise direction
until all end movement of the sheave
housing in the bracket is eliminated
and until a slight drag is felt when
turning the sheave housing to either
side by hand. Lock the adjustment by
tightening the clamp bolt.
302
0+td
GUIDE
Part Five
BEARINGS AND
REPAIR SECTION
ADJUSTABLE PARTS
TROUBLE SHOOTERS
AND TOLERANCES OF
TABLE OF CLEARANCES
TABLE OF CLEARANCES AND TOLERANCES
ENGINE
Intake and Exhaust Valve Clearances:
Cold engine Intake .015"
Exhaust .025"
Warm engine (just shut off).. .Intake .012"-.014" with injector set
Exhaust .022"-0.24" with injector set
(If injector is free, subtract .002" from these clearances)
Water Pump Shaft Ball bearing mounted
All Timing Gears are Keyed to Shafts or
Ball Bearing Mounted Except Idler Gear
Idler gear clearance 002" - .0035"
Lube Oil Pump Clearances:
Between shaft and bushing 005" - .0017"
Between shaft and pump housing 001" - .0025"
Between lubricating pump idler gear
and idler gear shaft 005" - .002"
Side clearance between lubricating pump housing
and lubricating pump gears 001" - .003"
Clearance between lubricating pump housing and
outside diameter of gear 001" - .003"
Camshaft and Bushing Oil Clearance 0015" - .004"
Piston Rings:
Top to Bottom Groove Clearance Gap Opening
Top 004"-.005" .010"-.020"
2 003" - .0045" .010" - .025"
3 002" - .0035" .010" - .025"
4 0015" - .003" .010" - .018"
5 002" - .0035" .010" - .018"
Clearance between Cylinder Head and Piston 0558" - .077"
Clearance between Connecting Rod Bushing
and Piston Pin 002" - .0027"
Piston Pin and Piston Select fit
Clearance between Connecting Rod and Crankshaft .006" - .010" (side)
Clearance between Connecting Rod and Crankshaft
Oil Clearance 003" - .005"
Crankshaft Thrust Bearing Clearance 0035" - .0085"
Main Bearing Oil Clearance 003" - .006"
Shell Thickness 1225" - .123"
Clearance 003" - .006"
Clearance (feeler test after tightening nuts) 0045"-.005"
Clearance between Cam Rocker Arm Shaft and Bushing .0005" - .0025"
Clearance between Rocker Arm Shaft and Rocker Arm
Bushing 001" - .0025"
304
OF BEARINGS AND ADJUSTABLE PARTS
TOURNAPULL
CORRECT
ALLOWABLE
POINT OF ADJUSTMENT
ADJUSTMENT
TOLERANCE
Axle Bearings
.002" tight
.008" loose to
.004" tight
Final Drive Pinion Bearings
.002" tight
.008" loose to
.004" tight
Spiral Bevel Gear Carrier Bearings
.000"
.008" loose to
.004" tight
Transmission Mainshaft Bearings
.000"
.002" loose to
Other Transmission Bearings
non-adjustable
.002" tight
Flywheel Clutch Pilot Bearing and
Release Bearing
non-adjustable
Steering Clutch Throw Out Bearing
non-adjustable
Drawbar.
Free working
without end play
POWER CONTROL UNIT
POINT OF ADJUSTMENT
Main Gear Bearings
Cable Drum Bearings
Brake Shaft Bearings
Pinion Bearings
Clutch Throw Nut Bearings
CORRECT
ADJUSTMENT
.002" tight
.005" tight
.000"
non-adjustable
non-adjustable
ALLOWABLE
TOLERANCE
.000" to .003" tight
.003" tight
to .006" tight
.002" loose to
.001" tight
SCRAPER
POINT OF ADJUSTMENT
Wheel Bearings
Fairlead Sheave Housing
Pivot Bearings
Sheave Bearings
Tailgate Roller Bearings
CORRECT
ADJUSTMENT
.000"
.001" tight
non-adjustable
non-adjustable
ALLOWABLE
TOLERANCE
.008" loose to
TROUBLE SHOOTER'S GUIDE
FLYWHEEL CLUTCH SLIPPAGE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Flywheel clutch may be incorrectly ad-
justed, with clutch pedal possibly strik-
ing floor boards before clutch becomes
fully engaged.
Correctly adjust clutch as outlined in
flywheel clutch adjustment instructions.
Flywheel clutch facing excessively worn.
Install a new lined driven disc.
Flywheel clutch facing oily or greasy,
possibly as a result of over-greasing
clutch release bearing.
As soon as convenient remove and re-
place lined disc. Also correct cause foi
facing becoming oily or greasy.
Clutch disc warped.
Clutch pressure spring weak, possibly
due to overheating or a long period of
usage.
Replace pressure spring.
FLYWHEEL CLUTCH DRAGGING
CAUSE
REMEDY
Flywheel clutch incorrectly adjusted.
Correctly adjust flywheel clutch.
Flywheel clutch may be gummed with oil
or grease.
Disassemble and clean clutch and in-
stall new lined driven disc. Also correct
cause of clutch facing becoming gummed
with oil or grease.
Clutch lined driven disc may be warped.
Flywheel clutch release bearing dry or
Lubricate or replace bearing, as needed.
damaged.
Flywheel clutch pilot bearing dry or
damaged.
Lubricate or replace bearing, as needed.
STEERING CLUTCH SLIPPAGE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Steering clutches not in the correct ad-
justment.
Correctly adjust steering clutches.
Final drive pinion bearings in a loose
adjustment, causing driven cone to be
mis-aligned with driving cones.
Correctly adjust final drive pinion bear-
ings.
Worn out steering clutch facing*.
Install new facing and machine or
grind surface of new facing true with
cone.
Clutch fingers, links, or pins worn un-
evenly.
Install complete new set of fingers, links,
and pins.
Splines on steering clutch driving cones
binding.
Remove cones and correct cause for bind-
ing, such as removing burrs, etc.
306
IMPROPER STEERING
CAUSE
REMEDY
Steering clutches incorrectly adjusted.
Correctly adjust clutches.
Steering brakes incorrectly adjusted.
Correctly adjust steering brakes.
Steering brake facing worn.
Install new brake facing.
Drive tires have unequal diameters, due
to unequal air pressures or because of
using a new tire on one side and a worn
tire on the other, thus causing Tourna-
pull to tend to pull to one side.
Use only matched tires on drive wheels,
and inflate to equal pressures.
DIFFICULT GEAR SHIFTING
CAUSE
REMEDY
Power Control Unit clutches dragging.
Correct cause of clutch dragging. Most
probable causes are clutch incorrectly
adjusted, main gear bearings loose, or
cable drum bearings loose.
Flywheel clutch dragging.
Correctlv adjust flywheel clutch.
Transmission oil heavier than that which
is recommended.
Drain and flush transmission and fill
to level plug with recommended weight
and type of lubricant. (See Lubrication
Instructions.)
Transmission center control pivot pin
(located at upper end ol gear shift lever
housing) worn or loose.
Tighten or repla.ce pivot pin.
Shifting yoke slots worn.
Replace shifting yokes.
Gear shift lever worn.
Replace gear shift lever.
TRANSMISSION GEAR INTERFERENCE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Shifting yokes may be sprung.
Replace shifting yokes.
Transmission shafts have excessive end
play.
If end play is in mainshaft, adjust main-
shaft bearings. If end play is in counter-
shaft, correct end play by tightening
bearing lock-nut, replacing bearings,
etc., depending upon what is causing the
end play.
Small interlock pin or balls in shifting
bar housing worn, broken, or omitted
when transmission was last assembled.
Assemble new interlock pin or balls in
shifting bar housing.
307
TRANSMISSION WON'T STAY IN GEAR
CAUSE
REMEDY
Small steel balls and springs omitted
from above shitting bars in shitting bar
housing when last assembled.
Install balls and springs in position in
shifting bar housing.
Operator not moving gear shift lever
fully into gear.
Move gear shift lever all the way for-
ward or to the rear when shifting gears.
HYDRAULIC BRAKE SLIPPAGE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Brake shoe to drum clearances ad-
justed too loose.
Adjust hydraulic brakes, correctly setting
brake shoe to drum clearances.
Oil or grease getting on brake shoes or
drums.
Clean the oil or grease from the brake
shoes or drums, replace wheel oil seals
if leaking, and be careful when lubricat-
ing to avoid getting grease on shoes or
drums.
Air in hydraulic lines.
Bleed hydraulic lines as outlined in
bleeding instructions in Operation Sec-
tion.
Insufficient amount of hydraulic fluid in
hydraulic lines, possibly due to leakage
at some point in the lines.
Repair any points of leakage, and re-
fill brake master cylinder at least *a full
of hydraulic brake fluid.
Excessive hydraulic brake pedal lash,
resulting in pedal striking dash panel
before brakes fully engage.
Make needed adjustment at brake mas-
ter cylinder. (See hydraulic brake ad-
justment instructions.
Brake shoes excessively worn.
Replace brake shoes.
HYDRAULIC BRAKES DRAGGING AND OVERHEATING
CAUSE
REMEDY
Brake shoe to drum clearances adjusted
too close.
Adjust hydraulic brakes, correctly set-
ting brake shoe to drum clearances.
Brake master cylinder compression rod
or "push rod" incorrectly adjusted, pre-
venting piston in master cylinder from
returning all the way when the brakes
are disengaged, resulting in primary cup
closing small compensating port in mas-
ter cylinder.
Make needed adjustment at brake mas-
ter cylinder. (See hydraulic brake ad-
justment instructions.)
Scraper wheel bearings in a loose ad-
justment.
Correctly adjust wheel bearings.
Brake drum not installed concentric on
wheel. (Brake drums are machined af-
ter being installed on wheel and, if re-
moved, should be re-installed in the
same position.)
POOR TRACTION OR FLOTATION
CAUSE
REMEDY
Tires not correctly inflated to fit job
conditions.
Correctly adjust tire pressures, using tire
inflation chart in Operation Section as
guide.
Drive tires installed with lugs pointing
in wrong direction, preventing space be-
tween lugs from cleaning itself of mud
as tire rotates.
Remove tire and install so that when
traveling forward, tire will rotate in the
direction indicated by arrow on sidewall
of tire.
FAILURE OF ENGINE TO START
CAUSE
REMEDY
Fuel level too low.
Check the fuel in the tank.
Low fuel pressure.
Check the fuel pressure. Fuel line may
be broken or leaking at fittings.
Fuel line shut off.
Check the emergency control valve on
the fuel pump to see if it is closed.
Fuel pump screen stopped up.
Inspect the fuel pump screen and clean
according to instructions, page 78 of
Operation Section.
Air in luel lines.
Bleed the fuel lines of air.
Weak batteries.
Charge or replace batteries.
Fuel lines frozen.
Check fuel lines for ice or sludge stop-
page. Thaw and drain fuel lines.
Out of fuel.
When the engine runs out of fuel, and
the fuel supply has been replenished,
proceed as follows:
Disconnect the fuel line on the pressure
side of the priming pump. Work the
priming pump to remove all air from
the lines to this point. Connect the fuel
line and build up 80 pounds pressure on
the fuel gauge with the priming pump.
Crank the engine with the starter and
continue to work the priming pump until
the pressure pump starts to build up
pressure. To determine when the pres-
sure pump is working, stop the priming
pump and watch the fuel pressure gauge
to see that it does not drop off in pres-
sure immediately. When the engine
starts after the fuel lines have been
emptied, it will knock and miss con-
siderably for a short period of time until
all the air in the lines has been expelled
and solid fuel is going into the injectors.
If the engine does not start after turning
it over for a short period of time, do not
continue to crank. Refer to FAILURE
TO START, as further cranking would
be an excessive and useless drain on the
battery.
309
ENGINE FALLING OFF IN POWER
CAUSE
REMEDY
Dirty fuel pump screen.
Clean the fuel pump screen.
Spray holes in the injector stopped up.
Clean the injector cup spray holes.
Incorrect valve or injector adjustment.
Adjust valves and injectors.
Leaking intake or exhaust valves.
Grind the valves.
Air filter stopped up.
Clean the air filters.
Insufficient lubrication.
Correct cause for low lubricating oil
pressure. Check for dilution of oil and
oil viscosity. Keep oil level to high
mark on gauge. Use only a good grade
of oil. Change lubricating oil every 64
hours. Keep oil passages open.
Overheated engine.
Do not overload. Keep plenty of cool-
ing water in the radiator. Keep the fan
belts adjusted. Check the water pump.
Clean out the radiator.
Fuel lines obstructed.
Clean fuel lines. Use only an acceptable
grade of fuel.
Back pressure.
Avoid sharp bends in the exhaust pipe.
Use exhaust pipe and muffler of suf-
ficient size.
Stuck pistons, rings, or excess cylinder
Install new rings. Install oversize liners
and pistons.
wear.
Fuel pump distributor disc scored.
Install new disc and cover.
Improper grade of fuel.
Refer to Fuel Oil Specifications.
Injector cup gasket leaking.
Install new cup gasket.
ENGINE STOPS
CAUSE
REMEDY
Engine locked.
Roll the engine over by hand to see if
it is free.
Fuel level too low.
Check the fuel level in the tank.
Fuel line stopped.
Check fuel lines for sludge, ice or other
obstructions that may be cutting off the
flow of fuel.
Engine out of lubricating oil.
Check the oil level in the crankcase
310
ENGINE MISSING
CAUSE
REMEDY
Leaky check valve in the injector or
fuel inlet connection.
Install new check valves.
Dirty injector cup spray holes.
Clean injectors.
Spray tip off the injector cup.
Install new injector cup.
Injector plunger sticking.
Clean injector.
Valves sticking.
Check valve springs and guides.
Valve clearance too close.
Reset the valves.
Valves leaking.
Grind valves.
Air in fuel lines.
Prime the engine.
Water in fuel.
Check the filter and fuel supply tank.
ENGINE SMOKING
CAUSE
REMEDY
Dirty injector cup spray holes.
Clean injector cup spray holes.
Valves leaking or clearances too close.
Check and reset valves.
Valve clearances too wide.
Check valve setting.
Injector adjustment set improperly.
Adjust injectors.
Fuel lines may not be attached to their
proper connections.
Refer to firing order chart on page 15
of Operation Section.
Engine overloaded possibly due to fuel
setting having been altered.
If more fuel is injected than the amount
of air in the cylinder will support in
combustion, the engine is being over-
loaded and the surplus fuel will not
burn.
Engine running too cool. Operating tem-
perature should be 160 F.
Check thermostats. .
Suction lines on the fuel pump ad-
mitting air.
Check fuel line connections.
Scored distributor disc.
Install new distributor disc and cover.
Injector plunger sticking.
Refer to "Sticking Injector Plunger"
causes.
Check valves may be leaking in fuel
inlet connection or in the injector.
Install new check-valves.
Injector cup spray tip cracked.
Air cleaner stopped up. .'
Clean air cleaner.
311
ENGINE OVERHEATING
CAUSE
REMEDY
Insufficient amount of cooling water.
Refill radiator.
Stoppage ol cooling system.
Clean radiator.
Insufficient amount or poor quality ol
lubricating oil.
Change or add oil.
Loose water pump belts.
Tighten belts.
Valve clearance improper.
Check valve clearances.
Overloading. Fuel pump seal has been
broken.
If seal is broken, reset as per instructions.
(Page 107 of Repair Section.)
Sludge or lime formation in the water
jacket.
Disassemble and clean.
DROP IN FUEL PRESSURE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Improper quality of fuel oil.
Air leak in the suction line.
Tighten connections or replace.
Fuel filter stopped up.
Clean and drain regularly.
Congealed fuel in the fuel lines.
Water in fuel freezing in cold weather.
Thaw lines. Drain water from fuel sup-
ply tank.
Excessive wear in the fuel gear pump.
Replace fuel gear pump.
LOW ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL PRESSURE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Lubricating oil diluted.
Correct cause of dilution and refill with
good oil.
Insufficient lubricating oil.
Add oil to high level mark on gauge.
Loose suction line or defective gasket.
Tighten or replace gasket.
Gauge line stopped up.
Remove and clean out.
Excessive wear in the lubricating pump.
Rebuild lubricating pump.
Loose bearings.
Replace bearings.
Insufficient amount or improper quality
ol lubricating oil.
Add oil of proper quality.
Excessive oil leaks around the valve rol-
lers and rocker levers.
Check bushings and ball and socket
seats.
Dent in the oil pan closing off the suc-
tion line.
Straighten.
312
EXCESSIVE USE OF ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL
CAUSE
REMEDY
Oil leaks.
Check the engine for external leaks.
Irnproper quality of lubricating oil.
Change oil. (See lubrication instructions
in Operation Section.)
Stuck piston rings.
Clean ring grooves and install new rings.
Oil drain holes in the piston stopped up.
Use -drill to open holes.
Excessive wear on the cylinder walls.
Install new cylinder liners.
Scored piston or sleeve.
Install new piston or liner, or both.
Injector shield left off, thus allowing the
oil to enter the injector drain.
Replace shields.
Overload.
Lessen load.
Injector rocker lever socket worn or
cracked.
Install new rocker lever socket.
Injector plunger link worn.
Install new injector link or new in-
jector.
ENGINE HAS WEAK CYLINDER
CAUSE
REMEDY
Check-valve leaking in fuel inlet con-
nection or injector.
Reseat or replace.
Leaking or sticking valves.
Clean and grind valves.
Sticking injector plunger.
See "Sticking Injector Plunger" cor
rections.
Injector spray holes stopped up.
Clean injector spray holes.
Fuel inlet connection gasket leaking at
the injector body.
Replace the gasket.
Low compression, caused by stuck rings.
Install new rings.
Improper injector plunger adjustment.
Adjust injector. To locate a weak
cylinder: Loosen the fuel supply line
at the fuel inlet connections. This will
cause the cylinder to miss. Set the
throttle to turn the engine about 500
to 600 r. p. m. Loosen each line separ-
ately and listen to the exhaust to see
if any change occurs. Before proceed-
ing to the next cylinder, tighten the
fuel line again. Check all cylinders in
this manner.
Injector cup gasket leaking.
Scored distributor disc.
New distributor disc and cover.
313
ENGINE KNOCKING
CAUSE
REMEDY
Overload.
Lessen the load.
Dirty injector cup spray holes. .
Clean injector cups.
Air in fuel lines.
Tighten connections and prime engine.
Injector push rod bent because of im-
proper injector adjustment, causing it
to strike the cylinder block.
Install new push rod.
Loose bearings.
Install new bearing inserts.
Loose piston pins.
Install new shims or bushings.
Piston slap, due to worn pistons and
cylinder walls.
Install new cylinder liners or pistons.
Loose flywheel.
Tighten and check run-out.
New injector cup.
Priming valve open.
Close priming valve.
DILUTION AND SLUDGE FORMATION IN ENGINE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Idling for long periods.
Shut oft the engine when it is not work-
ing.
The use of dirty or worn out lubricating
oil.
Change oil every sixty-four hours.
An inferior grade of lubricating oil.
Use better grade of oil. (See lubrica-
tion instructions.)
Failure to flush the engine properly.
Flush engine as outlined in Lubrication
Instructions.
Use of an inferior grade of fuel oil.
Injector cup spray holes stopped up.
Clean injector cup spray holes.
Use of the wrong size drill for cleaning
the injector cup spray holes.
Use only drills furnished by Cummins
Engine Company.
Leaking injector cup gaskets.
Tighten or replace.
Improper adjustment of the injector.
Adjust the injector.
Leaking gaskets at the injector fuel in-
let and drain connections.
Tighten or replace.
Stuck piston rings.
Install new piston rings.
Dirty oil niters.
Change filter bags as recommended.
Operating at overload.
Do not exceed rated engine capacity. -
Fuel pump setting too high.
Have fuel pump reset.
Engine water temperature too low. Op-
erating temperature should be 160 F.
Check thermostats.
314
DILUTION OF ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL
CAUSE
REMEDY
Stuck piston rings.
Install new rings.
Overload. Fuel pump seal has been
broken and more fuel is injected than
will burn in the available air.
If seal is broken, reset as per instruc-
tions. (Page 107 of Repair Section.)
Injector cup gasket leaking. Cup leak
can be detected by build-up of fuel
around the body, while it is in the
cylinder head and the engine is running.
Fuel inlet or drain connections leaking.
Tighten fuel inlet and drain connections.
Injector drain lines and manifold not
draining properly to fuel pump.
Remove and clean with compressed air.
Worn injector plungers permitting ex-
cess by-pass of fuel.
Install new injectors.
Vacuum in crankcase caused by air-
tight or dirty breather cap.
Clean crankcase breather.
STICKING INJECTOR PLUNGER
CAUSE
REMEDY
Dirty or gummy fuel.
Clean niters. Use proper grade of fuel
oil.
Fuel oil not having a viscosity recom-
mended under Fuel Oil Specifications, or
one that possesses no lubricating quali-
ties.
Should it be necessary to use such a
fuel oil until the proper grade is ob-
tained, add one quart of lubricating oil
to every five gallons of fuel oil.
Uneven tension on the injector hold-
down nuts causing distortion in the in-
jector body.
Loosen the nuts and retighten evenly, as
previously instructed. If this is causing
the trouble, the plunger will return to
its correct position immediately. If the
above methods do not correct the trou-
ble, replace the injector.
LOW GENERATOR OUTPUT
CAUSE
REMEDY
Poor contacts between brushes and com-
mutator.
Clean commutator with 00 sandpaper.
Excessive resistance in charging circuit.
Clean and tighten all connections in
charging circuit.
Voltage regulator set too low.
Readjust voltage regulator.
Battery fully charged.
Normal condition.
Third brush setting incorrect.
Reset third brush.
315
NO GENERATOR OUTPUT
CAUSE
REMEDY
Sticking brushes.
Clean brush holders and brush arms.
Replace brushes and brush springs.
Gummed or burned commutator.
Clean commutator. Turn down and un-
dercut mica if needed.
Short circuits, ground, or open circuits.
Isolate cause of trouble as explained on
page 104 of Operation Section.
Burned or oxidized voltage regulator
points.
Clean points with fine cut file. Never
use emery or sandpaper.
Cutout relay will not close.
Replace shunt winding on cutout relay.
EXCESSIVE GENERATOR OUTPUT
CAUSE
REMEDY
Voltage regulator setting too high.
Readjust voltage regulator.
Excessively advanced third brush set-
ting.
Retard third brush setting.
BATTERIES BECOMING DISCHARGED
CAUSE
REMEDY
No generator output.
Correct cause for no generator output.
(See "No Generator Output" listed
above.)
Low generator output.
Correct cause for low generator output.
(See "Low Generator Output" listed
on previous page.)
Poor connections in charging circuit.
Clean and tighten all connections.
Voltage regulator set too low.
Increase voltage regulator setting.
Cutout relay will not close.
Replace shunt winding on cutout relay.
If right hand batteries become discharged
and left hand batteries remain in a
charged condition, fuse may be burned
out in series-parallel switch.
Replace fuse.
// right hand batteries become partially
run down and left hand batteries remain
in a charged condition, there may be
excessive resistance in series-parallel
switch charging circuit, possibly due to
dirty or oxidized contact points in switch.
Check and correct cause of excessive re-
sistance in charging circuit.
316
NOISY GENERATOR
CAUSE
REMEDY
Loose mounting.
Tighten mounting.
Worn or dirty bearings.
Replace bearings.
Improperly seated brushes.
Seat brushes and replace brush
holders.
VOLTAGE REGULATOR TROUBLES
CAUSE
REMEDY
Loose wiring and connections may cause
a low charging rate even when the bat-
tery needs charging.
Tighten connections.
A low charging rate may be due to in-
sufficient generator capacity.
Short around the regulator to see if a
higher charging rate is obtained. If no
increase in generator output is noticed,
generator is probably at fault.
If battery charging rate remains high
with a well charging battery, voltage reg-
ulator needs adjustment.
Decrease voltage regulator setting.
FAILURE OF CRANKING MOTOR TO OPERATE PROPERLY
CAUSE
REMEDY
Defective connections in the circuit be-
tween the cranking motor and battery.
Clean and tighten connections and re-
place defective cables.
Weak battery.
Charge, or install new battery
strength.
of proper
Insufficient cranking speeds to turn en-
gine over in cold weather.
Use lighter oil, heat the oil, or pull back
the compression release lever while spin-
ning the motor until the engine acquires
its highest possible momentum, then re-
lease the compression lever to allow the
engine to fire.
Open circuit between the solenoid switch
and battery as evidenced by no dimming
of the lights by refusal of cranking motor
to operate.
Operate the shift and lever by hand or
determine if the cranking motor can
operate. Correct solenoid switch circuits.
Make sure that proper connections are
being made between the brushes and
commutator.
Defective cranking motor windings.
Check with test lamp and points.
317
POWER CONTROL UNIT CLUTCH SLIPPAGE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Brake cam installed too far to the rear
on clutch throw-nut and therefore rid-
ing against throw-nut bushing as control
level is moved, preventing driving cone
from fully engaging driven cone.
Space brake cam farther to the front on
clutch throw-nut. (Refer to Step 8 of
Power Control Unit clutch adjustment).
Main gear incorrectly spaced inside
Power Control Unit gear case, thereby
riding against back side of gear case
when control lever is moved to engage
clutch, preventing driving cone from
fully engaging driven cone.
Make Power Control Unit clutch adjust-
ment, correctly spacing main gear inside
gear case.
Power Control Unit clutch facing oily or
greasy (woven lacing only).
Remove driving cone and either re-
place facing or wash facing with naptha
or gasoline. Also prevent further oil or
grease from reaching clutch surfaces as
follows: Correct oil seal leakage, if pres-
ent (refer to "Oil Seal Leakage" correc-
tions). Do not lubricate that portion of
cable which wraps onto cable drum.
Never apply oil to woven facings.
Power Control Unit clutch facing in-
stalled eccentric on driving cone (woven
facing), or high spots on lacing not hav-
ing been machined off (metallic facing),
causing only a part of clutch facing to
bear against driven cone when clutch is
fully engaged.
If woven facing, either remove facing
and install it concentric on cone or ma-
chine surface or facing true with cone,
using a grinder. If metallic facing, ma-
chine off high spots.
Worn out Power Control Unit clutch
facing.
Either install new facing on driving cone
or install a replacement lined driving
cone.
Smooth, glazed Power Control Unit
clutch facing.
Remove driving cone and roughen clutch
facing with a rasp (woven facing only).
POWER CONTROL UNIT CLUTCH WON'T ENGAGE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Brake cam installed too far to the rear on
clutch throw-nut, therefore riding against
throw-nut bushing as control lever is
moved, preventing driving cone from
Space brake cam farther to the front on
clutch throw-nut. (Refer to Step 8 of
Power Control Unit clutch adjustment).
Main gear incorrectly spaced inside
Power Control Unit gear case, thereby
riding against back side of gear case
when control lever is moved to engage
the clutch, preventing driving cone from
POWER CONTROL UNIT CLUTCH WON'T RELEASE-
CLUTCH DRAGGING
CAUSE
REMEDY
Clutch adjustment incorrect, with travel
of control lever from neutral to fully en-
gaged position set at less than the recom-
mended distance, thereby providing in-
sufficient clearance between driving and
driven cones when in neutral.
Make Power Control Unit clutch ad-
justment, correctly setting travel of con-
trol lever from neutral to fully engaged
position.
Power Control Unit main gear bearings
in a loose adjustment, causing driving
cone to drag on driven cone when con-
trol lever is in neutral position.
Correctly adjust main gear bearings.
Cable drum bearings in a loose adjust-
ment, causing driven cone to drag on
driving cone when control lever is in
neutral position.
Correctly adjust cable drum bearings.
Power Control Unit clutch facing loose
on driving cone, resulting in facing drag-
ging on driven cone when control lever
is in neutral.
Remove driving cone and either rein-
stall facing on driving cone or install
new lined cone.
Threads excessively worn on drum shaft
or clutch throw-nut, resulting in full
travel of control lever being required to
take up play in threads instead of mov-
ing driving cone away from driven cone.
Replace worn drum shaft or throw-out.
SPONGY POWER CONTROL UNIT CLUTCH
CAUSE
REMEDY
in a loose adjustment, allowing end play
of driving cone on clutch throw-nut, and
mis-alignment of driving cone with driven
cone.
Cable drum bearings in a loose adjust-
ment, allowing end play of cable drum
and driven cone on drum shaft and mis-
alignment of driven cone with driving
cone.
Power Control Unit clutch facing not
tight on driving cone, thereby tending to
"give" and become "spongy" when en-
gaging and disengaging clutch.
Remove driving cone and re-line or in-
stall a replacement lined cone.
Power Control Unit clutch facing in-
stalled eccentric on driving cone, caus-
ing only a portion of facing to contact
driven cone when engaging clutch, result-
ing in slippage until heavy force is ap-
plied on control lever, giving "spongy"
action.
Remove driving cone and machine or
grind surface of facing true with cone.
319
POWER CONTROL UNIT CLUTCH WON'T HOLD ADJUSTMENT
CAUSE
REMEDY
Clamp block at rear end of drum shaft
insufficiently tightened, allowing drum
shaft to turn.
Readjust Power Control Unit clutch and
tighten clamp block on drum shaft by
turning capscrews down tight, using
force.
Brake cam not clamped tight on clutch
throw-nut, allowing lever to slip on
throw-nut.
Clamp brake cam tight on clutch throw-
nut by turning clamp bolt up tight, using
force. Then readjust clutch.
Brake roller arm not clamped tight on
brake shaft, allowing roller arm to slip
on shaft.
Readjust brake and tighten clamp bolt at
upper end of roller arm, using force.
POWER CONTROL UNIT BRAKE SLIPPAGE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Brake spring not adjusted tight enough.
Make brake adjustment, tightening set
screws on brake spring arm.
Tension of Power Control Unit brake
spring decreased, due to old age or long
period ol operation.
Replace brake spring.
Power Control Unit brake shaft bearings
adjusted too tight, preventing free rota-
tion of brake shaft and causing shaft to
bind, sometimes holding brake band away
from drum.
Correctly adjust brake shaft bearings.
Oily or greasy brake lining (woven lin-
ing only.)
Remove Power Control Unit brake band
and either replace band or wash lining
with naptha or gasoline. Also prevent
further oil or grease from reaching brake
lining as follows: If oil seals are leak-
ing, correct leakage (refer to "Oil Seal
Leakage" corrections.) Do not lubri-
cate that portion of cable which wraps
onto cable drum. Never apply oil to
woven lining.
Mud, rocks or cither obstacles lodged in
brake spring or behind brake roller arms
or linkage.
Remove mud, rocks, or other obstruc-
tions.
Power Control Unit brake lining worn
out.
Replace brake lining.
Brake hand improperly formed to fit
drum, possibly through accident.
Replace or re-shape brake band.
320
POWER CONTROL UNIT BRAKE WON'T RELEASE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Brake roller positioned too high against
brake cam, preventing cam from moving
roller arm outward far enough to cause
brake to release when control lever is
moved.
Make Power Control Unit brake adjust-
ment, correctly positioning brake roller
against brake cam. (Refer to brake ad-
justment instructions.)
Brake roller arm not clamped tight on
brake shall, allowing roller arm to slip
on shaft.
Correctly adjust Power Control Unit
brake and tighten clamp bolt at upper
end of roller arm, using force.
Main gear incorrectly spaced inside gear
case, thereby riding against the reduction
gear inside gear case as control lever is
moved to release brake, limiting travel
of control lever and preventing brake
from fully releasing.
Make Power Control Unit clutch adjust-
ment, correctly spacing gear inside gear
case.
Brake band frozen to drum.
Move control lever into lock-out posi-
tion, freeing band from drum.
OVERHEATING OF POWER CONTROL UNIT
CAUSE
REMEDY
Operator not engaging and disengaging
Power Control Unit clutches fully and
Quickly, causing short intervals of clutch
slippage and overheating.
Engage and disengage clutches with a
quick, full movement of control levers.
Power
Control Unit brakes slipping.
Correct the cause for brake slippage.
(Refer to "Power Control Unit Brake
Slippage" corrections.)
fower
Control Unit clutches slipping.
Correct the cause for clutch slippage.
(Refer to "Power Control Unit Clutch
Slippage" corrections.)
Power
Control Unit clutches dragging.
Correct the cause for clutch dragging.
(Refer to "Power Control Unit Clutch
Dragging" corrections.)
SCRAPER CUTTING LOWER ON ONE SIDE THAN ON OTHER
CAUSE
REMEDY
Unequal air pressures in rear tires.
Check air pressures and inflate to equal
pressures.
The use of tires of unequal diameters on
rear of Scraper, such as a new tire on one
side and worn tire on other, or a larger
size tire on one side than on other.
Install tires having equal diameters.
321
OIL SEAL LEAKAGE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Lubricants may not be those which are
recommended. Oils lighter than recom-
mended may seep out under seals and
incorrect type grease may break down
and become fluid from heat of operation.
Remove incorrect lubricants and replace
with lubricants which are recommended.
Oil seals incorrectly installed during as-
sembly, with leathers cupped outward,
away from oil or grease chamber.
Remove oil seals and install with leathers
cupped inward, toward oil or grease
chamber. Double leather oil seals should
be installed with heavy leather facing
inward.
Gear case filled with oil above the oil
level plug.
Lower oil level to oil level plug.
Oil seals becoming burned and hardened
as a result of overheating.
Correct cause for overheating. Also re-
place leaky oil seals.
Tournapull axle bearings in a loose ad-
justment, thereby whipping out leather
in oil seals.
Correctly adjust axle bearings. Also re-
place leaky seals.
Breather hole in Power Control Unit oil
fill plug not open, causing a pressure to
be built up inside the gear case, forcing
oil out around the seals.
Remove cork (or dirt) from breather
hole in fill plug. Also replace leaky oil
seals.
Power Control Unit cable drums filled
more than 2/3 lull of grease (possibly by
inserting grease through rear end of drum
shaft with grease gun), causing grease
to be forced out around seals as pressure
is built up inside drum through heat of
operation.
Remove cable drum and pack only 2/3
full of recommended lubricant. Also re-
place leaky oil seals. Lubricate through
holes in drum shaft only in case of
emergency.
in a loose adjustment causing gear and
driving cone to wobble, thereby whip-
ping out leather in oil seals.
Also replace leaky oil seals.
Power Control Unit cable drum bearings
in a loose adjustment, allowing cable
drum to raise and lower on drum shaft
each time load is raised and lowered,
thereby working cable drum oil seals up
and down on shaft, permitting grease to
escape.
Also replace leaky oil seals.
BEARING FAILURES
CAUSE
REMEDY
Bearings improperly lubricated.
Lubricate at specified intervals and with
EXCESSIVE CABLE BREAKAGE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Tailgate forward cable too short causing
tailgate arms to strike vertical braces on
top ol side-sheets before tailgate sliding
sheave strikes stop block, possibly result-
ing in bottom of tailgate kicking up.
Correctly adjust or replace cable. (Refer
to cable threading instructions.)
Tailgate forward cable too long, prevent-
ing tailgate from coming forward far
enough to eject all the load.
Correctly adjust or replace cable. (Refer
to cable threading instructions.)
Apron lift cable too short, causing apron
to strike arched A-Frame when in raised
position.
Correctly adjust or replace apron lift
cable. (Refer to cable threading instruc-
tions.)
Failure of operator to release Power Con-
trol Unit clutch when pushbeam stops
or tailgate sliding sheave stops are
brought together.
Promptly release Power Control Unit
clutch when pushbeam stops or tailgate
stops have been pulled together.
Traveling over unlevel ground or turn-
ing with either the pushbeam stops or
tailgate sliding sheave stops together.
Allow clearance at these points when
traveling. (Refer to operating instruc-
tions.)
323
PARTS
CflTflLOG
WARNING
SPARE PARTS can be supplied
promptly and accurately only if posi-
tively identified by correct part num-
ber and correct part name.
FURNISH THIS INFORMA-
TION ON ALL REQUISITIONS.
WITHOUT FAIL, on all requisi-
tions, give name of machine, name of
manufacturer, model or size, manufac-
turer's serial number of each machine
and subassemblies attached to machine,
and components and accessories for
which spare parts are required.
List spare parts for only one make or
kind of machine on each requisition.
Requisitions must be double spaced to
provide room for office notations when
necessary.
FOR
MOTOR/ZED,
SCRAPER, ROAD
MODEL SUPER C
PARTS CATALOG
CABLE-OPERATED,
TOURNAPULL, WITH
MODEL LP CARRYALL
12 CU. ra, LETOURNEAU
Engineer Supply Catalog (superseding Part III, Corps of
Engineers Supply Catalog). The total number on hand
for each item is listed under "On Hand". In column
headed "Due In" enter the total quantity previously
requisitioned but not delivered. Column headed
"Required" is to be changed to read "Quantity
Desired" and column headed "Approved" is to resa
"Remarks." For "Initial" and "Replenishment" requisi-
tions, the sum of "Quantity Desired", "Due In", and "On
Hand" should equd "Maximum or Authorized Level."
(Additional details on this subject are covered in
ENG I of the ASF Engineer Supply Catalog which
incorporates information formerly contained in Section
AA-I, Part III, Engineer Supply Catalog.)
Type "SPARE PARTS"
in upper right hand cor-
ner of requisition.
Address requisitions to Engi-
wj. ,., - T W
neer Field Maintenance
.S.T.J? r?TVM5> spAi PATO
Office, P. O. Box 1679, Colum-
REQUISITION \
bus, Ohio (except for spare
^t5sOjuir-l3itU.!litiMim..irilM._ - K^- i\. *.,.. -i_
parts for searchlights and bar-
rage balloons which are ad-
jfwMt,. .l-.yg-kM.... .... (P. JHMIUT.-UM M* SesioiJJUMil
dressed to Schenectady, N. y. /
or Ogden, Utah ASF depots).'
s sxmo . . I^tiMO-fssaxa. 8ta.cir.J8Fl
tflfl? ' FASUHTtDH
1 ^ HARKED FOP: Sjpply Offlrwr. 1-Ofi Ptier. P
egl.^nt. IDRT LFVIS. VAauiiOTQS
Give complete shipping^
R^jr.MTK!, Bt .' . H^,,*.. Rw,k. fWvu^MUM. Dlliiltn. U T- liamll 7or ta, CcMrodiBJ
instructions. Special instruc-
ffWtf~im -. r\e*-^ tfr\A^_C. )(&_
tions for packing, marking,
j9r/C. B. coi-( c. E.
routing, etc., should be given
Ftadln^^r Property Offlc- TscutlT Offle.r
at bottom of requisition.
STOCK HO.
~~*~- *"
- f <W --
State proper nomenclature
**
. DEIBQ
f mm K'nj M\ L II
Vs
FOP SCRAPFR, PÂD. MOTOOI7TO. C
1BU o(ffATTO. li CD. TO. il TOOIVEII
machine serial number and
inon. gopTT" c TOTRNATOU. VITH n
DO, LP CAPRTALL
U. S. A. registration number.
/\
jIS: to replMitalj iscond ct.jlo*
'
Prepare a separate requisition'
for each different machine.
'
itlVF^Y: tra 5 P*brurr 144
State basis or authority ancr
^*
CUMMINS FMCIN
E WGINF SICTTON
PREPARATION OF REQUISITIONS
A Sample requisition in the correct form for submission by the
Engineer Property Officer is shown on the opposite page.
THIS SHALL BE FOLLOWED IN MAKING OUT
REQUISITIONS.
In order to eliminate duplication of work, Property Officers may
authorize organizations to prepare requisitions in final form, leaving
requisition number space blank for completion by Property Officer.
THE FOLLOWING RULES WILL BE OBSERVED CAREFULLY
IN PREPARING REQUISITIONS FOR
SPARE PARTS:
a. Prepare a separate requisition for each different machine.
b. Type "SPARE PARTS" in upper right hand corner of requisition
form.
c. State PERIOD designation by use of one of the following terms:
(1) "INITIAL"first requisition of authorized allowances.
(2) "REPLENISHMENT"subsequent requisitions to maintain
authorized allowances.
(3) "SPECIAL"requisitions for necessary repairs not covered by
allowances.
d. Give complete shipping instructions.
e. State proper nomenclature of machine, and make, model, serial
number and registration number.
f. State basis or authority, and date delivery is required, immediately
below description of machine.
g. Group parts required under group headings as shown in manufac-
turers' parts catalogs.
h. State manufacturers' parts numbers and nomenclature descriptions
accurately and completely. Do not use abbreviations.
i. Double space between items.
j. Emergency requisitions sent by telephone, telegraph, or radio must
always be confirmed immediately with requisition marked: "Confirm-
ing (state identifying data)".
k. Nonexpendable items must be accounted for.
327
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HBID 600 CUMMINS ENGINE FOR SUPER C 329
CYLINDER BLOCK
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703
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COMPRESSION RELEASE
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OIL PAN
719
LUBRICATING OIL TUBING
(MOO CO
LUBRICATING PUMP
717
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720
DONALDSON AIR CLEANER
ALWAYS GIVE MACHINE NUMBER WHEN ORDERING RARTS.
HBID600 CUMMINS ENGINE FOR SUPER .C 349
???
f* rt
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CM CM
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1'
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DONALDSON AIR CLEANER
AIR INTAKE MANIFOLD
<
723
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
FLYWHEEL & FLYWHEEL HOUSING
ii
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et
18
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11
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PRIMING PUMP & BRACKET
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88
354
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83^88
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NUGENT FUEL FILTER
355
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rvi rvj
11
if' i i
11
Mi I
11
1 i 'i
11
iil '8
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727
NUGENT FUEL FILTER
FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY DRAWING
J56 HBID600 CUMMINS ENGINE FOR SUPER C
FUEL PUMP MAIN HOUSING
CAM ROCKER LEVER
731
VERTICAL LEVER
tr
L.
L.
fc
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10
DISTRIBUTOR
i60 HBID600 CUMMINS ENGINE FOR SUPER C
361
11I
11
1'
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II
II
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FLYWHEEL A FLYWHEEL HOUSING
II
II
726
354
II|II
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NUGENT FUEL FILTER
35!
727
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NUGENT FUEL FILTER
FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY DRAWING
Al UJAVC r:t\/r uArtJiuc' MI ILJOCTO VAJUCM rDr\coiMr-_ DAOTC
CAM ROCKER LEVER
731
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DISTRIBUTOR
GEAR PUMP
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FUEL PUMP MAIN SHAFT & GOVERNOR
735
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FLOAT CHAMBER
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INJECTOR INLET & OUTLET CONNECTION
38 HBID 600 CUMMINS ENGINE FOR SUPER C 365
ir
INJECTOR
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CM{M<O (M C\J
WATER MANIFOLD
CD
368
WATER PUMP
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DRIVE PULLEY, BELTS & FAN
ffR-ff^g-
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371
GENERATOR-CROSS SECTION
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT FOR SUPER C
'I'
*5
s ii
ft 1
372
GENERATOR- EXPLODED
373
GENERATOR FRAME & FIELD ASSEM. EXPLODED
374
GENERATOR COMMUTATOR END - EXPLODED
375
GENERATOR DRIVE END FRAME-EXPLODED
376
CRANKING MOTOR-CROSS SECTION
LJ
ui
j!i
00
1/1
377
SM S i
-5 S
CRANKING MOTOR-EXPLODED VIEW
CUMMUTATOR END-EXPLODED
378 ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT FOR SUPER C
IT T
37fl
CRANKING MOTOR BRUSH PLATE-EXPLODED
ID
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COMMUTATOR END-EXPLODED
mrncvjro
EQUIPMENT FDR SUPER C
oo
380
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FRAME & FIELD ASSEMBLY-EXPLODED
DYER DRIVE HOUSING-EXPLODED
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT FOR SUPER C 31
ii
yr
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iii
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380
^v
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380
SOLENOID SWITCH-EXPLODED
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SOLENOID TERMINAL-EXPLODED
384
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385
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SERIES PARALLEL-EXPLODED
376
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Si
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377
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37$
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380
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382
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384
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT FDR SUPER C
385
376
iii
377
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CUMMUTATOR END-EXPLODED
379
380
!ii
382
Ill
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385
386
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387
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SERIES PARALLEL CONTACT ASSY.-EXPLODED
fe
rvj rvj
VOLTAGE REGULATOR-GENERAL EXPLODED VIEW
Ii
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CUT-OUT RELAY-EXPLODED
/^
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NUOH 3 NUOH
WIRING DIAGRAM
MODEL SUPER C TOURNAPULL 391
392 MODEL SUPER C TOURNAPULL
?T?
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S?$ ?2?SS2S5S?SS
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CONTROL GROUP
AIWAYS r,IVF MArHINf NIIMHFB WHFKJ ODOFBIKin PADTS.
li
ZOQ-ON
FLYWHEEL CLUTCH-CROSS SECTION
AlWAYS GIVE MACHINE NUMBER WHEN ORDERING PARTS
394
MODEL SUPER C TOURNAPULL
FLYWHEEL CLUTCH-EXPLODED
39!
oo
TRANSMISSION-REAR VIEW
i96
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TRANSMISSION-CROSS SECTION
AIWAV* r.lVF M4THINE NUMBER WHEN ORDERING PARTS
Sx
0>
397
TRANSMISSION SHIFT LEVER-EXPLODED
398
UPPER TRANSMISSION SHAFT-EXPLODED
LOWER TRANSMISSION SHAFT-EXPLODED
400
REVERSE IDLER GEAR ASSEM.
401
CD otn
REVERSE IDLER-EXPLODED
ALWAYS GIVE MACHINE NUMBER WHEN ORDERING PARTS.
kl
402
RING GEAR I PINION-CROSS SECTION
403
RING GEAR & PIN ION-EXPLODED
404
ry ry
STEERING CLUTCH-CROSS SECTION
ALWAYS GIVE MACHINE NUMBER WHEN ORDERING PARTS
405
-<O(D
STEERING CLUTCH-EXPLODED
406
BRAKE GROUP
FINAL DRIVE ASSEMBLY
408
FINAL DRIVE PINION-EXPLODED
ALWAYS GIVE MACHINE NUMBER WHEN ORDERING RARTS.
*"a
409
lgS3
FINAL DRIVE AXLE-EXPLODED
10
WHEEL GROUP
r.i\if uArMiMF MUMRFB WHEN ORDERING PARTS
~T X
RADIATOR GROUP
CO 00 00 <T ^ 00 CO
AIU/AVC r.lvf UArHIKIF KIIIMRFB WHFM nBnFBIMT, PABTS
412
IIIIIIII
i K I I fijfi I
CASE & TANK
T C\JC\JC\J f\J
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is
CASE & TANK-SQUARE CASE
414
oo- -
DECK GROUP
415
SEAT GROUP
aio
416
(\jrvj
SAFETY CABLE
417
SAFETY CABLE
418
DRAWBAR GROUP
i!
419
mm
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420
in
222
DASH GROUP
10
zru
421
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HEAD LAMP GROUP
422
EXHAUST GROUP
423
TOOL GROUP
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PCU CASE CROSS SECTION
425
MODEL T PCU FOR SUPER C
MAIN GEAR & DRIVING CONE
ji
tt
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l-l-
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426
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BRAKE GROUP-EXPLODED
427
NECK-CROSS SECTION
PINION ASSEMBLY-EXPLODED
428 MODEL T PCU FOR SUPER C
429
IDLER ASSEMBLY-EXPLODED
CABLE DRUM-CROSS SECTION
CABLE DRUM-EXPLODED
MODEL T PCU FOR SUPER C TOURNAPULL 43
432
CCU(D
NECK GROUP
CM (\J (\J C\J
43'
PCU HANDLE ASSEMBLY
si
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CO
CABLE CUTTER
434 MODEL T PCU FOR SUPER C
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CABLE LENGTHS
MODEL LP CARRYALL FOR SUPER C 43f
CABLE THREADING DIAGRAM
MODEL LP CARRYALL FOR SUPER C
MODEL LP CARRYALL FOR SUPER C 43
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MAIN BODY ASSEMBLY
438 MODEL LP CARRYALL FOR SUPER C
0ioO
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MAIN BODY SUB ASSEMBLIES
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C.I I C.
I HOUSING
I SHEAVE--
I BEARING
I COTTER--
I PIN--
I ZERK-
3CAPSCREW-
--H-27I
-F-7269
- C-177
--C-I05I
--C-I38
C-315
H-llll
3 LOCKWASHER C-1544
6 SHEAVE-
6 BEARING
6 COTTER-
4 PIN
6 ZERK
F-7269
---C-177
-C-I05I
---C-I38
-- C-315
2 PIN F-5027
FOR SIDE SHEET HOUSING
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AXLE SUPPORT BEAM
L42 MODEL LP CARRYALL FOR SUPER C
AIU/AVC r-.iwr UAruiKIC klllUBFB U/UCK1 nonFDIKjr. PAT<;
CO
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1 h .1 LJ ^55
YOKE ASSEMBLY
ALWAYS GIVE MACHINE NUMBER WHEN ORDERING FARTS
2 SHEAVE
2 BEARING
C-172
--C-I75
2 PIN
4 ZERK
2 COTTER
2 BOLT
NUT
NUT
SHEAVE
BEARING-
SEAL
C-174
C-315
--CH05I
-H-6906
- C-5783
C-498
C-137
G-175
L-323
2 PIN
6 ZERK
2 GOTTER
G-138
C-315
C-I05I
4 CONE-
4 CUP-
-C-I6
- C-l
SHEAVE C-172
BEARING
COTTER
ZERK
PIN
C-175
-C-I05I
C-315
C-174
YOKE SUB ASSEMBLY
II
i,
i-
Si
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PUSHBE. STS-I
PUSHBEAM GROUP
(0 I
PUSHBEAM SUB ASSEMBLY
AlWAYS GIVE MACHINE NUMBER WHEN ORDERING PARTS
APRON GROUP
KJMMKFB ufucij ncriFBiKir, PABT";
TAILGATE GROUP
/ A VC SMWC 11 A/-UlkJC kJI I11OCD U/LJ CkJ /-\Or> C Ol k.1/-l DA OTC
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5 UJ D O O UJ
3 < </> H J DC
C\J (M T (M (\| (M
TAILGATE SUB ASSEMBLIES
MODEL LP CARRYALL FOR SUPER C44<
REAR HITCH GROUP
SPIRAL SHEAVE ASSEMBLY
UATHIMF NUMBER WHEN ORDERING PARTS
SPIRAL SHEAVE-EXPLODED
18 X 24 SGL. REAR WHEEL
AIU/AVC r,l\lf MATHIMF KJIIURFB WHFN OBHF IMa PABTS
i!'
TT
SJ,
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154
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!555lîiS83
^ CLCLCO <i-,-uza. a
16X24 SGL. WHEEL-EXPLODED
- o o
<O (O (O
BRAKE DRUM & ANCHOR-SECTIONAL
456
HYDRAULIC BRAKES FOR SUPER C
AI Ul/AVC i--r\/c uAr-uiKir MI IUIUTD
BRAKE DRUM & ANCHOR-EXPLODED
***
457
MASTER CYLINDER - SECTIONAL
MASTER CYLINDER-EXPLODED
458 HYDRAULIC BRAKES FOR SUPER C
(O <O
BRAKE PEDAL & BRACKET
460
TUBING ASSEMBLY
833
(M<M
RIGHT BRAKE ASSEMBLY
HYDRAULIC BRAKES FOR SUPER C 46
(M GO
RIGHT BRAKE-EXPLODED
HYDRAULIC BRAKES FOR SUPER C 4!
I*
00
tS
gg
ii
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S N S <^Jfy ojf>J^ 5 <2 ^
Q Q S 9 000 O C^ ^
co flj tp co op cO oo co cOtG *0
LEFT BRAKE ASSEMBLY
LEFT BRAKE-EXPLODED
r.iuf uiruiMP KIIIUKCD u/ucu
WHEEL CYLINDER-SECTIONAL
466
UJ
Q. Z
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111 iii
IIIIII
836
WHEEL CYLINDER-EXPLODED
HBID600 CUMMINS ENGINE FOR SUPER C4
LIST OF ASSEMBLIES FOR HBID-600 MOTOR
(PARTS INDENTED ARE INCLUDED IN THE PART UNDER
WHICH THEY ARE INDENTED.)
PART
NUMBER
DESCRIPTION
PRICE
QTY. EACH
CYLINDER HEAD
BM-1078 CYLINDER HEAD, VALVES, * STUDS ASSEMBLY 3 $71.80
(Includes Following):
H-60011-1 COLLETT, VALVE HALF 24
H-60010 GUIDE, VALVE SPRING 18
H-9216-1 SPRING, VALVE 12
H-9167-X VALVE, EXHAUST *
H-9167-X-1 VALVE, INTAKE 6
BM-2195 HEAD, STUDDED (Include. Following): 3 58.45
H-9210-1 GUIDE, VALVE STEM 12
S-715 PLUG, 1" EXPANSION 1J
S-911-B PLUG, Vt" PIPE
S-935-B PLUG, %" PIPE
S-922-E PLUG, %" PIPE
H-64967 SEAT, EXHAUST VALVE
H-9250-1 STUD, EXHAUST MANIFOLD
H-7398-1 STUD, INJECTOR 12
H-9270 STUD, ROCKER ARM HOUSING 21
CYLINDER BLOCK
BM-2401 CYLINDER BLOCK STUDDED 1 408.50
H-9229-2 BUSHING, CAMSHAFT (FRONT) 1
H-9230-2 BUSHING, CAMSHAFT 3 & 5 2
H-9231-2 BUSHING, CAMSHAFT 2-4-6 3
H-9233-2 BUSHING, CAMSHAFT (REAR) 1
S-112 CAPSCREW, ya"-24 x 1", WATER BLIND FLANGE 2
H-9228 DOWEL, CAMROCKER HOUSING 6
H-9227 DOWEL, CYLINDER HEAD i
H-9225 DOWEL, FLYWHEEL HOUSING 2
H-9227 DOWEL, FUEL PUMP 2
H-9225 DOWEL, GEAR CASE COVER 2
H-64790 DOWEL, REAR COVER PLATE 4
H-63683 FLANGE, WATER BLIND (SIDE) 1
K-8441 GASKET, WATER DRAIN PLUG 1
H-9540 GASKET, WATER BLfND FLANGE 1
H-9427 LOCK, MAIN BEARING STUD NUT 14
S-604 LOCKWASHER, WATER BLIND FLANGE 2
H-9197-1 NUT, MAIN BEARING STUD 14
H-9222 PIN, IDLER GEAR 1
S-715 PLUG, 1" EXPANSION, COMPRESSION RELIEF SHAFT
HOLE 1
S-703 PLUG, %* EXPANSION, LUBRICATING OIL DRAIN 1
S-702 PLUG, 1V4" EXPANSION, WATER HEADER 1
S-706 PLUG, I'/," EXPANSION, WATER HEADER 4
S-901 PLUG, '/4" PIPE, LUBRICATING OIL DRAIN 1
S-911-B PLUG, ft" PIPE, LUBRICATING OIL HEADER 7
S-935-B PLUG, ft" PIPE, LUBRICATING OIL HEADER 2
S-935-B PLUG, %" PIPE, WATER DRAIN 1
S-924 PLUG, i/2" PIPE, WATER DRAIN 1
H-65476 PLUG, WATER DRAIN 1
H-9215-1 STUD, CYLINDER HEAD 18
H-9232 STUD, LUBRICATING PUMP 4
H-60574 STUD, MAIN BEARING 7
H-64773 STUD, MAIN BEARING SLOTTED 7
BM 1055 GEAR, IDLER (Indudes Following): 1 23.75
H-9224 BUSHING, IDLER GEAR 1 -
~~ LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
>8 HBID600 CUMMINS ENGINE FOR SUPER C
REAR COVER
BM-1059 REAR COVER ASSEMBLY 1 9.70
(Includes Following ):
H-65436 CAPSCREW, REAR COVER JOINING J
H-65002-1 GASKET, REAR COVER JOINING S
S-652 LOCKWASHER, 5/16" EVERLOCK, REAR COVER JOINING 2
S-209 NUTS, 5/16"-24 REAR COVER PLATE JOINING
HAND HOLE COVER
BM-2461 HAND HOLE COVER & FILLER SPOUT COVER ASSEMBLY 1 7.90
H-3796 COVER
S-2902 NECK, FILLER
H-63077 TUBE, OIL LEVEL GAUGE
GENERATOR DRIVE
BM-422 GENERATOR DRIVE UNIT ASSEMBLY 44.40
S-16005 BEARING, CAGE BALL
S-16002 BEARING, CAGE COVER BALL
. H-4788-1 CAGE, GENERATOR DRIVE BEARING
H-9184-1 COVER, GENERATOR DRIVE BEARING CAGE
H-9277 GASKET, GENERATOR DRIVE BEARING CAGE
H-9278 GASKET, GENERATOR DRIVE BEARING CAGE COVER
H-9171-1 GEAR, GENERATOR DRIVE
S-313 KEY, WOODRUFF FOR DRIVE GEAR
S-316 KEY, WOODRUFF FOR SPROCKET
S-625 LOCKWASHER, %" POS. LOCK COUPLING SPIDER
S-249 NUT, y4"-16, COUPLING SPIDER
H-9275 NUT, BEARING RETAINER
S-509 PIN, COTTER
H-9096 RING, BEARING RETAINER SNAP
S-1796 SEAL, OIL
H-9183-1 SHAFT, GENERATOR DRIVE
H-9634 SPIDER, GENERATOR COUPLING
H-9274 WASHER, BEARING RETAINER
CRANKSHAFT & MAIN BEARING
BM-135 CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY 378.00
H-1282 CRANKSHAFT
H-9168-2 GEAR PINION (CRANKSHAFT)
H-9300 KEY, CRANKSHAFT PINION
H-9304 LOCK, CRANKSHAFT NUT
H-9305 NUT, CRANKSHAFT
H-9301-1 PIN, HAND CRANKING
H-9306 SLINGER, OIL
PISTON
BM-2175 PISTON ASSEMBLY 6 15.75
H-65327 RING, COMPRESSION 12
H-65354 RING, KEYSTONE 6
H-45326 RING, OIL REGULATOR NARROW 6
H-65325 RING, OIL REGULATOR WIDE 6
BM-2174 PISTON PINS ASSEMBLY 6 14.40
H-60026 LOCK, INJECTOR CUP WIPER 6
H-9208-3 PIN, PISTON 6
H-2770-2 PISTON, BARE 6
H-61908 RING, PISTON PIN SNAP . II
H-60025 WIPER, INJECTION CUP 6
L(ST OF ASSEMBLIES
......,..,...._ ..,......._...
CONNECT|NG ROD
BM-103 CONNECTING ROD LESS SHELL ASSEMBLY 6 15.30
H-9195-3 BOLT, CONNECTING ROD 12
H-9247-S BUSHING, PISTON PIN 6
S-tt7-1 NUT, CONNECTING ROD BOLT 1J
H-62727 PLATE, CONNECTING ROD LOCK 12
CAM ROCKER HOUSING AND PUSH RODS
BM-125 CAM ROCKER HOUSING ASSEMBLY 3 25.55
H-4790-3 HOUSING, CAM ROCKER 3
S-705 PLUG, %" EXPANSION 6
H-9239 SCREW, SHAFT LOCK
H-4796-2 SHAFT, CAM ROCKER
BM-121 INJECTOR CAM ROCKER ASSEMBLY 4.20
BM-119 LEVER ft BUSHING, INJECTOR CAM 2.70
H-9241-S BUSHING, INJECTOR CAM LEVER
H-9257 PIN, INJECTOR CAM ROLLER
H-7350 RIVET, INJECTOR CAM ROLLER PIN
H-7348-1 ROLLER, INJECTOR CAM
BM-124 VALVE CAM ROCKER LEVER ASSEMBLY 12 4.25
BM-122 LEVER & BUSHING, VALVE CAM 12 3.15
H-9240-S BUSHING, VALVE CAM LEVER 12
H-9258 PIN, VALVE CAM ROLLER 12
H-7350 RIVET, CAM ROLLER PIN 12
H-9260 ROLLER, VALVE CAM 12
BM-145 ROD, EXHAUST PUSH 6 2.55
BM-144 ROD, INJECTOR PUSH 6 3.00
BM-146 ROD, INTAKE PUSH 6 3.15
ROCKER LEVER HOUSING
BM-106 ROCKER LEVER HOUSING ASSEMBLY 3 46.35
H-60845 CIRCLIP, ROCKER LEVER 12
H-2362-1 HOUSING, ROCKER LEVER 3
S-707 PLUG, I'/V EXPANSION, ROCKER LEVER HOUSING . 6
S-911-B PLUG, 1/7" PIPE, ROCKER HOUSING 3
H-6J229 PLUG, ROCKER HOUSING VENT 3
H-9269 SCREW, ROCKER SHAFT LOCK 3
H-4792-3 SHAFT, ROCKER LEVER 3
BM-117 EXHAUST ROCKER LEVER ASSEMBLY.. 6 580
BM-114 LEVER & BUSHING, EXHAUST .6 3.25
H-9242 BUSHING, VALVE ROCKER LEVER.. 6
S-232 NUT, %"-18, ROCKER LEVER ADJUSTING SCREW 6
H-9264-X PIN, EXHAUST ROCKER LEVER ROLLER 6
H-9265 RIVET, EXHAUST ROCKER LEVER ROLLER PIN.. . 6
H-9261 ROLLER, ROCKER LEVER 6
H-7199-3 SCREW, ROCKER LEVER ADJUSTING ... 6
BM-99 INJECTOR ROCKER LEVER ASSEMBLY 6 4.85
BM-97 LEVER BUSHING, INJECTOR 6 260
H-9243-2 BUSHING, INJECTOR ROCKER LEVER 6
S-232 NUT, y,"-12 ROCKER LEVER ADJUSTING SCREW.. 6
H-7199-3 SCREW, ROCKER LEVER ADJUSTING 6
H-60508 SOCKET, INJECTOR ROCKER LEVER 6
BM-113 INTAKE ROCKER LEVER ASSEMBLY 6 5.60
BM-110 LEVER & BUSHING, INTAKE . 310
H-9242 BUSHING, VALVE ROCKER LEVER .
S-232 NUT, %"-18, ROCKER LEVER ADJUSTING SCREW
H-9264-2 PIN, INTAKE ROCKER LEVER ROLLER .
H-9265 RIVET, ROCKER LEVER ROLLER PIN
H-9261 ROLLER, ROCKER LEVER
H-7199-3 SCREW, ROCKER LEVER ADJUSTING 6
~~ LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
ROCKER LEVER HOUSING COVER
BM-192 ROCKER HOUSING COVER ASSEMBLY 1 3.40
H-42588 ANCHOR, BREATHER 1
H-3868 COVER, BREATHER HOUSING 1
S-2902 NECK, CINCH FILLER 1
CAMSHAFT
BM-89 CAMSHAFT ASSEMBLY 1 108.00
H-9280 BOLT, CAMSHAFT GEAR 6
H-1194-6 CAMSHAFT 1
H-4765-1 GEAR, CAMSHAFT 1
H-66212 LOCKPLATE, CAMSHAFT BOLT NUT 1
S-205 NUT, y8"-24 CAMSHAFT GEAR BOLT 4
S-935-B PLUG, %" PIPE I
H-9235-1 RING, CAMSHAFT THRUST 1
LUBRICATING OIL PIPING
BM-1281 TUBE, ENGINE TO GOVERNOR LUBRICATING 1 1.10
S-1022-A NUT, TUBE I
BM-2392 TUBE, FILTER TO ENGINE 1 4.85
H-65540-A FLANGE, LUBRICATING OIL CONNECTION 1
S-1037 NUT, TUBE 1
S-1072 NUT, SLEEVE PACKING 1
S-1091-1 SLEEVE, PACKING 1
BM-2393 TUBE, LUBRICATING OIL PUMP TO FILTER 1 4.35
S-1037 NUT, TUBE 2
BM-1182 TUBE, LUBRICATING OIL SUCTION 1 7.85
H-64855 FLANGE, LUBRICATING OIL SUCTION 1
S-1076 NUT, TUBE PACKING t
S-1077 SLEEVE, TUBE PACKING 2
LUBRICATING PUMP
BM-419 LUBRICATING PUMP ASSEMBLY 1 60.65
BM-196 BRACKET & BUSHING 1 6.70
H-9186-1S BUSHING, LUBRICATING PUMP BRACKET 1
S-16002 BEARING, BALL 1
H-40457 BODY LUBRICATING PUMP 1
H-4783 CACE, LUBRICATING PUMP BEARING 1
S-103 CAPSCREW, 5/16"-18 2'/4" BODY TO BRACKET 8
H-7183 DOWEL, LUBRICATING PUMP BRACKET 2
H-928S GASKET, BRACKET TO BODY 1
H-9283-1 GASKET, BRACKET TO CAGE 1
H-9169-2 GEAR, LUBRICATING PUMP DRIVE 1
H-64777 GEAR, LUBRICATING PUMP DRIVE 1
H-64778 GEAR, LUBRICATING PUMP IDLER 1
S-316 KEY, LUBRICATING PUMP DRIVE GEAR 2
S-605 LOCKWASHER, 5/16" POS. LOCK 8
H-9275 NUT, RETAINER 1
S-509 PIN, COTTER FOR RETAINER NUT 1
H-9096 RING, BEARING RETAINER SNAP 1
H-64780 SHAFT, LUBRICATING PUMP DRIVE 1
H-64779 SHAFT, LUBRICATING PUMP IDLER 1
H-9274 WASHER, RETAINER 1
S44
LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
HBID600 CUMMINS ENGINE FOR SUPER C4
DELUXE FILTER
BM-2390 TUBE, FILTER DRAIN 1 1.65
(Include* Following):
S-1070 SLEEVES, RUBBER 2
S-1068 NUT, PACKING 2
BM-2420 TUBE DELUXE FILTER INLET 1 1.50
S-1069 NUT, TUBE PACKING I
S-1071 SLEEVES, RUBBER 2
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
BM-1340 EXHAUST MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY 1 25.25
(Includes Following ):
H-40855 SECTION, MANIFOLD CENTER
H-41041 SECTION, MANIFOLD FRONT
H-41042 SECTION, MANIFOLD REAR
BM-2373 TUBE, PRIMING PUMP DISCHARGE .95
BM-2374 TUBE, PRIMING PUMP INTAKE .70
S-1022-A NUT, TUBE PUMP INTAKE & DISCHARGE TUBE 4
FUEL OIL FILTER (NUGENT)
BM-2971 TUBE, CUNO TO NUGENT FILTER 1 1.15
S-1068 NUT, TUBE PACKING 2
S-1070 SLEEVE, TUBE 2
BM-2970 TUBE, NUGENT FILTER TO FUEL PUMP 2 1.35
S-1068 NUT, TUBE PACKING 4
S-1070 SLEEVE, TUBE PACKING ., 4
FUEL PUMP
BM-1310 FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY 1 S96.55
BM-2265 FUEL PUMP HOUSING ASSEMBLY 1 33.30
H-9124-2 BUSHING, CAM ROCKER LEVER
H-60466 BUSHING, GOVERNOR CONTROL ROD
H-9959 BUSHING, HAND CONTROL ECCENTRIC
H-9125-S BUSHING, PLUNGER LEVER SHAFT (SHORT)
H-9144-S BUSHING, PLUNGER LEVER SHAFT (LONG)
H-9423 DOWEL, GEAR PUMP HOUSING
S-1546 PLUG, OIL LINE
S-910-B PLUG, i/4" PIPE FOR DRAIN
S-911-B PLUG, '/," PIPE FOR HOUSING
H-65827 TUBE, FLOAT CHAMBER VENT
BM-954 VALVE BY PASS .40
BM-6 GOVERNOR LEVER & BUSHING ASSEMBLY 2.20
H-60244 BUSHING, GOVERNOR LEVER
H-9131-2 LEVER, GOVERNOR
BM-7 ECCENTRIC, HAND CONTROL 5.6S
CAM ROCKER LEVER
BM-31 CAM ROCKER LEVER ASSEMBLY ........ 1 11.20
H-4747-3 LEVER, CAM. ROCKER 1
H-9121-1 PIN, CAM ROCKER LEVER ROLLER 1
H-9126 RIVET, CAM ROCKER, LEVER ROLLER PIN 1
H-8396-1 ROLLER, CAM ROCKER LEVER 1
H-91S8 STOP, VERTICAL LEVER. 2
LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
VERTICAL LEVER
BM-41 VERTICAL LEVER ASSEMBLY 1 15.20
H-9368 BEARING, PLUNGER LEVER PIN 56
H-9370 BEARING, VERTICAL LEVER ROLLER JJ
S-165 CAPSCREW, %"-24x1'/2", PLUNGER LEVER
H-8388 LEVER, PLUNGER
H-9119-4 LEVER, VERTICAL
S-604 LOCKWASHER, %" POS. LOCK, PLUNGER LEVER
CAPSCREW
H-9366-2 PIN, PLUNGER LEVER
H-9371-1 PIN, VERTICAL LEVER ROLLER
S-1546 PLUG, PLUNGER LEVER SHAFT
H-60227-A RIVET, VERTICAL LEVER ROLLER PIN
H-9369-t ROLLER, VERTICAL LEVER
H-9118 SHAFT, PLUNGER LEVER
DISTRIBUTOR
BM-4t DISTRIBUTOR ASSEMBLY 91.65
BM-59J DISC & COVER ASSEMBLY 43.25
H-9058 CAP, DUST
S-1004 ELBOW, TUBE
H-9056 GASKET, TACHOMETER SHAFT GUIDE
H-9053 GUIDE, TACHOMETER SHAFT
H-9054 NUT, TACHOMETER SHAFT GUIDE
S-2297 PACKING, TACHOMETER SHAFT GUIDE
BM-67 DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT ASSEMBLY 8.45
H-8456 PIN, DISTRIBUTOR DISC DRIVE
H-61115 RIVET, DRIVE COLLAR
H-9462 RIVET, TACHOMETER SHAFT
H-915t SHAFT, DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE
H-9051-1 SHAFT, TACHOMETER DRIVE
BM-5 HOUSING & BUSHING ASSEMBLY 16.10
H-9676 BUSHING, DISTRIBUTOR DISC
H-9050-5 BUSHING, DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT
BM-2 PRIMING VALVE ASSEMBLY I.JO
H-847J PIN, PRIMING VALVE
H-9139 VALVE, PRIMING
S-1622 BALL, CHECK
S-16003 BEARING, DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT BALL
S-165 CAPSCREW %"-24 1I'/,", DISTRIBUTOR COVER 6
S-684 GASKET, DISTRIBUTOR CHECK VALVE
H-9176 GASKET, DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING COVER
H-9179 GASKET, METERING PUMP
H-9146-1 GEAR, DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE
S-308 KEY, WOODRUFF
H-8386 NUT, PLUNGER BARREL CLAMP
H-7726 NUT, PRIMING VALVE PACKING
H-8142 PACKING, PRIMING VALVE
S-911-B PLUG, %" PIPE, TIMING HOLE
H-65505 PLUG, DISTRIBUTOR CHECK VALVE
BM-1 PUMP, METERING 3.00
A-65506 SPRING, DISTRIBUTOR CHECK VALVE
K-8433 SPRING, DISTRIBUTOR DISC
BM-20 TUBE, GEAR PUMP TO DISTRIBUTOR .70
S-1873-A NUT, TUBE
S-1022-A NUT, TUBE
LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
ALWAYS GIVE MACHINE NUMBER WHEN OIDERING PARTS
GEAR PUMP
BM-12 GEAR PUMP ASSEMBLY 1 53.30
BM-19 CHECK VALVE SEAT & SCREEN ASSEMBLY 1.70
H-9597 SCREEN, CHECK VALVE SEAT
S-1698 BALL, CHECK
H-2425-5 BODY, #1 GEAR PUMP
H-2427-3 BODY, #2 GEAR PUMP
H-9760 BOLT, GEAR PUMP BODY (LONG)
H-9761 BOLT, GEAR PUMP BODY (SHORT)
H-914M BUSHING, CAM ROCKER LEVER
H-64889 CHAMBER, PRESSURE
S-1873 COCK, SHUT OFF
S-1004 ELBOW, TUBE
S-1793 GASKET, CHECK VALVE HOUSING
H-9459 GASKET, FUEL SUPPLY CHECK VALVE
H-9767-1 GASKET, #1 GEAR PUMP SPACER
H-9766-t GASKET, #2 GEAR PUMP SPACER
H-6753 GASKET, IDLING LEVER SHAFT
S-1822 GASKET, PRESSURE CHAMBER
H-9132-1 GEAR, #1 DRIVE
H-9507 GEAR, #2 DRIVE
H-9509 GEAR, #1 IDLER
H-9508 GEAR, #2 IDLER'
H-9456 GUIDE FUEL SUPPLY CHECK VALVE
H-9458-1 HOUSING FUEL SUPPLY CHECK VALVE
H-9919 KEY, #1 DRIVE GEAR
S-314 KEY, #2 DRIVE GEAR
S-604 LOCKWASHER, %" POSITIVE LOCK
S-205 NUT, %"-24", BODY BOLT
S-911-B PLUG, '/" PIPE, #1 BODY
S-1848 RING, SNAP
S-1213 SCREW, SPACER PLATE
H-60099 SEAL SPACER
S-1918 SEAL, SHAFT
H-9758-1 SHAFT, GEAR PUMP DRIVE
H-9759 SHAFT, GEAR PUMP IDLER
H-9765 SHAFT, IDLING LEVER
H-9134-1 SLEEVE, PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE
H-4893-2 SPACER, GEAR PUMP .'
H-9440 SPRING, FUEL SUPPLY CHECK VALVE
H-9495-1 SPRING, PRESSURE REGULATING VALVE
H-8462-1 VALVE, FUEL PUMP CHECK
H-945S VALVE, FUEL SUPPLY CHECK
H-9135-3 VALVE, PRESSURE REGULATING
H-60098 WASHER FOR OIL SEALS J
H-9910 WASHER, PRESSURE REGULATING
FUEL PUMP MAIN SHAFT
BM-2831 FUEL PUMP MAIN SHAFT ASSEMBLY 1 29.60
(Includes Following]:
H-4771-1 CAM, FUEL PUMP
H-9143 KEY, FUEL PUMP CAM
H-9178-1 PIN, GEAR PUMP DRIVE
S-911-B PLUG, '/," PIPE, MAIN SHAFT
H-4789-13 SHAFT, FUEL PUMP MAIN
LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
GOVERNOR
BM-31 GOVERNOR CONTROL ROD ASSEMBLY 1 6.00
H-9110 COLLAR, GOVERNOR CONTROL SLEEVE
H-9175 PIN, GOVERNOR THRUST WASHER
S-2871 RIVET, CONTROL ROD COLLAR
H-9160-1 ROD, GOVERNOR CONTROL
BM-1118 GOVERNOR HOUSING ASSEMBLY 8.50
H-9114-2 BUSHING, GOVERNOR HOUSING
BM-1173 GOVERNOR WEIGHT & SPRING ASSEMBLY 8.65
H-60100-A SPACER, 1/64", MAXIM SPEED
H-60100-B SPACER, 1/16", MAXIM SPEED
H-60100-C SPACER, .0086", MAXIM SPEED
H-9108-2 SPRING, GOVERNOR MAXIMUM SPEED 1
H-63526 SPRING, GOVERNOR IDLING SPEED '. . 1
-BM-30 WEIGHT, GOVERNOR I e*. 3.S5
BM-28 GOVERNOR YOKE ASSEMBLY 1 13.65
H-9808 BUSHING, GOVERNOR WEIGHT PIN 4
H-9728-3 BUSHING, GOVERNOR YOKE 1
H-9748 PIN, GOVERNOR YOKE BUSHING 1
FLOAT CHAMBER
BM-24 FLOAT CHAMBER ASSEMBLY 1 6.00
H-9730 BRACKET, FLOAT BEARING 1
S-133-A CAPSCREW, '/4"-28 < '/,", FLOAT CHAMBER 2
H-4890 CHAMBER, FLOAT 1
H-9726-1 FLOAT & LEVER 1
H-9762-1 GASKET, FLOAT CHAMBER 1
H-9729 GASKET, VALVE SEAT 1
S-600 LOCKWASHER, '/" POS. LOCK FLOAT CHAMBER 2
H-9735 LOCKWASHER, FLOAT LEVER BEARING PIN 1
H-9734 NUT, FLOAT LEVER BEARING PIN 1
H-9725 PIN, FLOAT LEVER BEARING 1
H-9732 PIN, FLOAT LEVER LOCATING 1
H-9749-1 PLATE, FLOAT CHAMBER TOP 1
S-911-B PLUG, ft" PIPE 1
H-9724 SEAT, FLOAT VALVE .....' 1
H-9733 STOP, FLOAT 1
H-9723 VALVE, FLOAT 1
FUEL TUBING
BM-1284 INJECTOR DRAIN MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY 1 255
S-1035 CROSS, TUBE I
S-1031 ELBOW, TUBE
H-9572 NIPPLE, '/,"i6i/,", INJECTOR DRAIN
H-9573 NIPPLE, W'W. INJECTOR DRAIN
H-9574 NIPPLE, f/."i6%", INJECTOR DRAIN
S-1033 TEE, TUBE
BM-1189 TUBE, INJECTOR DRAIN 50
BM-1478 TUBE, INJECTOR DRAIN MANIFOLD TO PUMP .80
S-1023-A NUT, TUBE
BM-1274 TUBE, INJECTOR SUPPLY TUBE No. 1 85
BM-1275 TUBE, INJECTOR SUPPLY TUBE No. 2.. 85
BM-1278 TUBE, INJECTOR SUPPLY TUBE No. 5 . 85
S-1022-A NUT, TUBE (FOR ALL INJECTOR TUBING) 24
LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
INJECTOR FUEL INLET CONNECTION
BM-499 FUEL INLET CONNECTION ASSEMBLY 6 3.45
S-1656 BALL, FUEL CONNECTION CHECK
BM-150 CAGE & SCREW .20
H-9298-1 CAP, FUEL CONNECTION
H-9286-2 CONNECTION, FUEL INLET
H-60598 GASKET, FUEL CAP
H-9426-2 GASKET, FUEL CONNECTION (COPPER)
H-8950-1 GASKET, FUEL CONNECTION (LEATHER)
H-9287 GUIDE, FUEL CONNECTION SPRING
H-9353-2 PLUG, INLET CONNECTION
H-9315 SPRING, FUEL CONNECTION
H-8521 SPRING, FUEL CHECK VALVE
INJECTOR FUEL DRAIN CONNECTION
BM-495 INJECTOR FUEL DRAIN ASSEMBLY 6 1.50
H-9303-2 CONNECTION, INJECTOR FUEL DRAIN 6
H-9426-2 GASKET, INJECTOR DRAIN CONNECTION (COPPER) 6
H-8950-1 GASKET, INJECTOR DRAIN CONNECTION (LEATHER) .. 6
H-9287 GUIDE, FUEL CONNECTION SPRING 6
H-9299 GUIDE, FUEL CONNECTION SPRING 6
H-9315 SPRING, FUEL CONNECTION 6
INJECTOR
BM-142 TRACTOR INJECTOR ASSEMBLY 6 26.50
BM-2469 BODY & PLUNGER ASSEMBLY 6 13.65
H-7194-t LINK, INJECTOR PLUNGER
H-9355 PIN, INJECTOR PLUNGER LINK
BM-136 CHECK VALVE SEAT ASSEMBLY 1.50
BM-1640 INJECTOR CUP & GASKET ASSEMBLY 3.30
H-62409 GASKET, INJECTOR CUP
H-6J1J6 BAIL, INJECTOR PLUNGER RETAINING
H-62128 COVER, INJECTOR
H-9432 GASKET, CHECK VALVE PLUG
H-9434 GASKET, CHECK VALVE SEAT
H-62127 GASKET, INJECTOR COVER
H-62129 GASKET, INJECTOR PLUNGER OIL SEAL
H-9433 PLUG, INJECTOR CHECK VALVE
S-1207 SCREW COVER 1
S-2345-1 SEAL, INJECTOR PLUNGER
H-62411 SPRING, INJECTOR CHECK VALVE
H-62123 SPRING, INJECTOR PLUNGER
H-62406 STOP, INJECTOR CHECK VALVE
WATER PUMP
BM-95 PUMP, WATER 1 32.00
S-1713 BEARING, INNER 1
S-16033 BEARING, OUTER 1
H-20145-5 BODY 1
H-20145-1 GASKET, OIL 1
H-20145-13 GUIDE, SPRING 1
H-20145-8 IMPELLER 1
S-308 KEY, IMPELLER 1
S-305 KEY, PULLEY 1
H-20145-23 LOCKWIRE 1
THROTTLE CONTROL
BM-2391 LINK, THROTTLE CONTROL 1 2.20
LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
AIU/AVS r.ivF MACHINE NUMHR WHEN ORDERING PARTS
PART PRICE
NUMBER DESCRIPTION PAGE QTY. EACH
A-63495 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS 367 $ .09
A-65506 SPRING, DISTRIBUTOR CHECK VALVE 360 .04
H-1194-6 CAMSHAFT 341 76.40
H-1282 CRANKSHAFT 336 356.50
H-1736 HOUSING, FLYWHEEL 352 3824
H-2352-3 GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD 328 1.33
H-2362-1 HOUSING, ROCKER LEVER 339 8.73
H-2425-5 BODY, #1 GEAR PUMP 361 8.05
H-2427-3 BODY, #2 GEAR PUMP 361 9.77
H-2770-2 PISTON, BARE 337 9.90
H-2840 HOUSING, LUBRICATING OIL FILTER 347 M.JO
H-2983 FLYWHEEL 352 64.19
H-3763-1 COVER, ROCKER HOUSING 340 2.40
H-3796 COVER 332 6.23
H-3941 HOUSING, THERMOSTAT 367 5.20
H-3953 MANIFOLD, WATER 367 10.82
H-3999 MANIFOLD, AIR INTAKE 349 11.32
H-4765-1 GEAR, CAMSHAFT 341 30.43
H-4767-3 LEVER, CAM ROCKER 358 9.73
H-4771-1 CAM, FUEL PUMP 362 16.67
H-4783 CAGE, LUBRICATING PUMP BEARING 344 5.15
H-4788-1 CAGE, GENERATOR DRIVE BEARING 335 5.40
H-4789-13 SHAFT, FUEL PUMP MAIN 362 12.40
H-4790-3 HOUSING, CAM ROCKER 338 3 5.06
H-4791 SHAFT, COMPRESSION RELEASE 331 1 4.50
H-4792-3 SHAFT, ROCKER LEVER 339 3 4.20
H-4793 GASKET, GEAR CASE COVER 333 1 .36
H-4795-7 LINER, CYLINDER 329 6 14.85
H-4796-2 SHAFT, CAM ROCKER 338 6 1.60
H-4798 GASKET, ROCKER HOUSING TO CYLINDER HEAD 339 3 .07
H-4829-4 LINK, GOVERNOR 357 1 3.66
H-4890 CHAMBER FLOAT 363 1 1.88
H-4893-2 SPACER, GEAR PUMP 361 1 4.03
H-4930-1 PULLEY, WATER PUMP DRIVE 369 1 9.24
H-4944 BRACKET, GENERATOR 4.34
H-5083 GASKET, PAN TO BLOCK 342 1 .54
H-5143 COVER 332 2 3.69
H-5412 BRACKET, AIR FILTER 349 2 5.73
H-5416 GASKET, HAND HOLE COVER 332 3 .33
H-5528 COVER, OIL FILTER 347 1 t.40
H-5711 GEAR, FLYWHEEL RING 352 1 6.39
H-5943 CONNECTING RODBEARING 337 12 4.47
H-6753 GASKET, IDLING LEVER SHAFT 361 1 .08
H-7183 DOWEL, LUBRICATING PUMP BRACKET 344 2 .08
H-7194-2 LINK PLUNGER 366 6 41
H-7199-3 SCREW, ROCKER LEVER ADJUSTING 339 18 1.70
H-7239-3 PIN, GOVERNOR WEIGHT 362 .38
H-7348-1 ROLLER, INJECTOR CAM 338 .97
H-7350 RIVET, INJECTOR CAM ROLLER PIN 338 1 .01
H-7398-1 STUD, INJECTOR 328 .17
H-7463-1 WASHER, IDLER GEAR PIN 329 .45
H-7464 PIN, WASHER LOCK 329 .03
H-7614 CLIP, DRAIN MANIFOLD 364 .15
H-7726 NUT, PRIMING VALVE PACKING 360 .36
H-8142 PACKING, PRIMING VALVE 360 .05
H-8386 NUT, PLUNGER BARREL CLAMP 360 -26
H-8388 LEVER, PLUNGER 359 3.13
H-8390 LINK, METERING PUMP 360 1.13
H-8396-1 ROLLER, CAM ROCKER LEVER 358 .82
H-8456 PIN, DISTRIBUTOR DISC DRIVE 360 .15
H-8462-1 VALVE, FUEL PUMP CHECK 361 1.17
H-8472 PIN, PRIMING VALVE 360 .07
H-8521 SPRING, FUEL CHECK VALVE. 365 6 .07
SPARE PARTS & PRICE LIST
HBID600 CUMMINS ENGINE FOR SUPER C A'
H-8950-1
H-90SO-5
GASKET, FUEL CONNECTION (LEATHER)
BUSHING, DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT
365 IS
360
t .12
1.28
H-90S1-1
SHAFT, TACHOMETER DRIVE
360
1.30
H-9052
CAP DUST
360
.11
H-9053
GUIDE, TACHOMETER SHAFT
360
1.55
H-9054
NUT, TACHOMETER SHAFT GUIDE
360
.54
H-9056
GASKET, TACHOMETER SHAFT GUIDE
360
.08
H-9096
RING, BEARING RETAINER SNAP
335,344
.15
H-9097
GASKET, WATER PUMP TO BLOCK
368
.20
H-9103-6
SPRING, GOVERNOR 1. T
362
9.52
H -91 04-5
TUBE, GOVERNOR XOKE
362
5.40
H-910S-1
RING, GOVERNOR SPLIT LOCK
362
Pr. .20
H-91 06
SLEEVE, GOVERNOR SPRING
362
2.65
H-91 08-2
SPRING, GOVERNOR MAXIMUM SPEED
362
1.20
H-91 10
COLLAR, GOVERNOR CONTROL SLEEVE
362
2.73
H-91 11
RING, GOVERNOR THRUST
362
.47
H-91 13
SPRING, THRUST RING RETAINER
362
.35
H-91 14-2
H-9210-1
GUIDE, VALVE STEM
328
12
.47
H-9212
BEARING, COMPRESSION RELEASE SHAFT
331
1.13
H-9213
TUBE, LUBRICATING
329
1.40
H-9215-1
STUD, CYLINDER HEAD
329
IS
48
H-9216-1
SPRING, VALVE
328
12
50
H-9217-1
LEVER, COMPRESSION RELEASE
. 331
.98
H-9219C. 1.
GLAND, COMPRESSION RELEASE PACKING
331
2.Z3
H-9220-1
CONNECTION, ENGINE WATER (LOWER)
.78
H-9221
GASKET, ENGINE WATER CONNECTION
.03
H-9222
PIN, IDLER GEAR
329
2.67
H-9223
SPRING. COMPRESSION RELEASE LEVER
. 331
.37
H-9224
BUSHING, IDLER GEAR
329
80
H-9225
DOWEL, GEAR CASE COVER
333
.12
H-9226
DOWEL, FLYWHEEL HOUSING
330
.14
H-9227
DOWEL
329,350
HBID600 CUMMINS ENGINE FOR SUPER C A'
H-9286-2
CONNECTION, FUEL INLET
365
1.53
H-9287
GUIDE, FUEL CONNECTION SPRING
. 365
17
.15
H-9298-1
CAP, FUEL CONNECTION
365
36
H-9299
GUIDE, FUEL CONNECTION SPRING
365
16
H-9300
KEY, CRANKSHAFT PINION
336
OS
H-9301-1
PIN, HAND CRANKING
336
.11
H-9303 2
CONNECTION, INJECTOR FUEL DRAIN
365
93
H-9304
LOCK, CRANKSHAFT NUT
336
20
H-9305
NUT, CRANKSHAFT
336
1.62
H-9306
SLINGER, OIL
336
47
H-9315
SPRING, FUEL CONNECTION .
365
12
12
H-9333-1
GASKET, FLYWHEEL HOUSING
352
4.78
H-9353-2
PLUG, INLET CONNECTION
365
.08
H-9355
PIN, INJECTOR PLUNGER LINK
366
H-9745
H-9748
H-9749-1
H-9750
H-9755-3
H-9757-2
H-9758-1
H-9759
H-9760
H-9761
H-9762,1
H-9763-1'
H-9764-1
H-9765
H-9766-2
H-9767-1
H-9808
H-9876
H-9910
H-9919
H-9958
H-9959
H-10189
H-1 0368-3
H-10368-4
H-1 0368-1 7
H-1 0368-1 8
H-1 0368-22
H-1 0368-26
H-10368-27
H-1 0375-3
H-1 0375-5
H-1 0375-6
H-1 0375-7
H-1 0375-8
H-1 0375-9
H-1 0375-1 6
H-1 0375-1 8
H-10375-19
H-1 0375-20
H-1 0375-22
H-103 75-24
H-1 0375-25
H-10375-26
H-1 0376-24
H-1 0376-28
H-10376-30
H-10380-1
H-1 0380-3
H-1 0380-6
H-10380-8
H-1 0380-9
H-10380-10
H-10380-1 8
H-1 0380-1 9
H-1 0380-20
H-1 0380-22
H-1 0380-25
H-20145-1
H-20145-2
H-20145-3
H-20145-4
H -201 45-5
H-20145-7
SEPARATOR, LUBRICATING
PIN, GOVERNOR YOKE BUS
PLATE, FLOAT CHAMBER (
LEVER, IDLING
HOUSING, BY PASS VALVE
h-20145-8
IMPELLER
368
6.30
H-201 45-11
RING, SEAL CLAMP
368
.09
H-201 45-1 2
SEAL, FLEXIBLE
. 368
.27
H-201 45-1 3
GUIDE, SPRING
.. 368
.06
H-20145-14
SNAP WIRE
... 368
.06
H-20145-1 6
RETAINER, SPLIT RING
. 368
.72
H-20145-1 7
RING, SPLIT
. 368
.45
H-201 45-20
SPACER, BEARING
. 368
.60
H-201 45-22
WASHER, CORK RETAINER
368
.24
H-201 45-23
LOCKWIRE
... 368
.09
H-201 45-24
RETAINER, CORK
. . . 368
.72
H-201 45-26
WASHER, CLAMP
. 368
.30
H-201 53
PLATE, OIL PAN DECK
. 342
15.48
H-40423
BEARING, MAIN BEARING LOWER REAR
336
H-62411
SPRING. INJECTOR CHECK VALVE
366
10
H-62727
PLATE, CONNECTING ROD LOCK
337
12
.01
H-62971
BRACKET, PRIMING PUMP
353
1.06
H 63077
TUBE, OIL LEVER GAUGE
332
1.59
H-63171
BOLT, DELUXE FILTER U
345
1.M
H *:185
BRACKET, FUEL FILTER
281
u 63m
SPACER, FUEL FILTER BRACKET
.30
H-63188
SPAUR, FUEL FILTER BRACKET
23
H-63331-K
CRANK, HAND
336
256
H-63432
LOCKWASHER, WATER PUMP DRIVE PULLEY
369
.04
H- 63526
SPRING, GOVERNOR IDLING SPEED
362
.90
H 63683
FLANGE, WATER BLIND (SIDE)
330
.82
H-63763
SCREW, CONTROL LEVER ADJUSTING
357
.13
H-64307
FLANGE, DRAIN TUBE .
345
2.00
H-64376
GASKET, FLYWHEEL TO CRANKSHAFT .
35!
.03
HBID600 CUMMINS ENGINE FOR SUPER C 48-
S-104-A
CAPSCREW, y8"-18x1'/2"
j52 9
.07
S-105-A
CAPSCREW, 7/1 6"-20x 11/4"
.... 335 4
.05
S-108
CAPSCREW, 5/16"-24xy," . . .
. 331 1
.03
S-109-A
CAPSCREW, 9/16"-18x1'/3" .. .
.10
S-110-A
CAPSCREW, y,".24xy4"
333,345 4
.03
S-112
CAPSCREW, %"-24x1"
330,332, 58
.03
349350,361,
367,370
S-122
CAPSCREW, 7/16"-Mx1'/4" .
360 1
.07
S-129
CAPSCREW, y8"-24xl"
.. .. 331,338 18
.03
S-133-A
CAPSCREW, i/4"-28x%"
363 2
.02
S-134
CAPSCREW, 5/16"-18x2"
369 6
.03
S-134-A
CAPSCREW, *10-24y4"
343 4
.02
S-138-A
CAPSCREW, 5/16"-24x%" . .
. 342,367 16
.03
S-140
CAPSCREW, 7/16"-14xl%"
361 3
.05
S-141
CAPSCREW, %"-16x2%"
361 2
.06
S-142
CAPSCREW, 5/16"-24x1'/4"
357 1
.02
S-146-B
CAPSCREW, y8"-24x3"
. . 355 2
.03
S-150-C
SCREW, i/4"-28x1"
360 1
.12
S-605 LOCKWASHER, 5/16" 344,345, 40
362,363,367,
369,370
S-607 LOCKWASHER, #10 POS. LOCK 343 4
S-609 LOCKWASHER, 9/16" 347 J
S-610 LOCKWASHER, 7/16" 333,335,344,37
347,360,362
S-625 LOCKWASHER, V4" 335 1
S-631 WASHER, i/4" 370 1
S-636 LOCKWASHER, 9/64" 354,355 4
S-652 LOCKWASHER, 5/16" EVERLOCK 334,342 6
S-666 LOCKWASHER, 7/16" 342 33
S-678 LOCKWASHER, 7/16" 333 1
S-684 GASKET, DISTRIBUTOR CHECK VALVE PLUG .360 1
S-701 PLUG, Ii/,", EXPANSION 357 2
S-702 PLUG, 1%", EXPANSION ?._. 330 1
S-703 PLUG, y4", EXPANSION 329 1
S-705 PLUG, %", EXPANSION 338 6
S-706 PLUG, I'/j", EXPANSION 330,357 5
S-707 PLUG, 1'/", EXPANSION 339 6
S-715 PLUG, 1" EXPANSION 328,330 13
S-901 PLUG, '/," PIPE LUBRICATING OIL DRAIN
S-903 PLUG, '/," PIPE, OIL 368 1
S-905 TEE, '/i" PIPE 353 2
S-910-B PLUG, Vi" 357 1
S-911-B PLUG, i/," PIPE 328,329, 21
339,357,360,
361,363
S-922-E PLUG, y4" PIPE 328 6
S-924 PLUG, i/j" PIPE 330,332,347 3
S-927 ELBOW, i/8" STREET 353 1
S-929 NIPPLE 357 1
S-935-B PLUG, %" PIPE 328,329,341 7
S-945 NIPPLE, i/i" PIPE CLOSE 353 3
S-967 BUSHING, '/," i/4", PIPE ... 345 1
S-99S PLUG, y4" PIPE 367 2
S-1003 CONNECTION, TUBE 353 1
S-1004 ELBOW, TUBE 360,362 8
S-1004-1 ELBOW, LUBRICATING OIL TUBE 361 1
S-1006-A CONNECTION 345 2
S-1007-A ELBOWS, FILTER INLET & OUTLET TUBE
S-1008-A CONNECTION, FILTER TUBE 345 1
S-1010-A ELBOW, FILTER TUBE 345 1
S-1022-A NUT, TUBE 353 4
S-1023-A NUT, TUBE
S-1030 ELBOW, TUBE 347 I
S-1031 ELBOW, TUBE 364 2
S-1033 TEE, TUBE 364 3
S-1035 CROSS, TUBE 364 1
S-1037 NUT, TUBE
S-1050 COUPLING, PIPE, INJECTOR DRAIN 357 1
S-1068 NUT, PACKING
S-1069 NUT, TUBE PACKING
S-1070 SLEEVES, RUBBER
S-1071 SLEEVES, RUBBER
S-1072 NUT, SLEEVE PACKING
S-1074 CONNECTION, STRAIGHT TUBE
S-1076 NUT, TUBE PACKING
S-1077 SLEEVE, TUBE PACKING
S-1200 SCREW, WASHER 329 1
S-1207 SCREW, COVER 366 12
S-1213 SCREW, SPACER PLATE ... 361 1
S-1307 SCREW, FUEL LINE CLIP 364 14
S-1310 SCREW, INDEX HOLE COVER 352 1
.01
.01
.01
.01
.12
S-1313
SCREW, OIL PAN DECK PLATE
342 1'
> .01
S-1 327
SCREW, FUEL FILTER BRACKET
.03
S-1546
PLUG
359 1
.09
S-1622
BALL, CHECK ... . .
360 1
.03
S-1656
BALL, FUEL CONNECTION CHECK
365 4
k .02
S-1 698
BALL, FUEL CHECK
357,361!
t .03
S-1713
BEARING, INNER
368
3.10
SI 788
GASKET, BY PASS VALVE
357
.03
S-1 792
BELTS, WATER PUMP DRIVE
369
1.26
S-1793
GASKET, DRAIN PLUG . .
342,361
.05
S-1 795
S-1 796
GASKET, CAM ROCKER LEVER SPRING RETAINER
SEAL, OIL
357
335
.03
.75
S-1 800
SEAL FAN PULLEY OIL
333
.95
S-1 804
CAP
340
1.00
S-1 811
PUMP, HAND PRIMING
353
7.17
S-1 822
GASKET, PRESSURE CHAMBER
361
.05
S-1 824
JOINT, SOLID SWIVEL
370
.20
S-1 825-1
CONTROL, EMERGENCY STOP PULL
B6 HBID600 CUMMINS ENGINE FOR SUPER C
BM-7
ECCENTRIC, HAND CONTROL
357
5.65
BM-1?
GEAR PUMP ASSEMBLY
361
53.30
BM-19
CHECK VALVE SEAT & SCREEN ASSEMBLY . . .
361
1.70
BM-20
TUBE, GEAR PUMP TO DISTRIBUTOR . . .
356
.70
BM-24
FLOAT CHAMBER ASSEMBLY
6.00
BM-28
GOVERNOR YOKE ASSEMBLY .
362
13.65
BM 30
WEIGHT, GOVERNOR
362
e*. 3.25
BM-31
GOVERNOR CONTROL ROD ASSEMBLY
362
6.00
BM 32
CAM ROCKER LEVER ASSEMBLY
11 20
BM-41
VERTICAL LEVER ASSEMBLY
15.20
BM 49
DISTRIBUTOR ASSEMBLY
91.65
BM-67
DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT ASSEMBLY
360
8.45
BM-89
CAMSHAFT ASSEMBLY
108.00
BM-95
PUMP, WATER
368
32.00
BM-97
LEVER AND BUSHING, INJECTOR
339
2.60
BM-99
INJECTOR ROCKER LEVER ASSEMBLY
4.85
BM-103
BM-2195
BM-2265
BM-2373
HEAD, STUDDED 328 3
FUEL PUMP HOUSING ASSEMBLY 357 1
TUBE, PRIMING PUMP DISCHARGE 353 1
5845
33.30
.95
BM-2374
TUBE, PRIMING PUMP INTAKE 353 1
TUBE, FILTER DRAIN .345 -1
LINK, THROTTLE CONTROL 370 1
TUBE, FILTER TO ENGINE .343 1
TUBE, LUBRICATING OIL PUMP TO FILTER ..343 1
CYLINDER BLOCK STUDDED 4
TUBE, DELUXE FILTER INLET .345 1
HAND HOLE COVER & FILLER SPOUT ASSEMBLY
BODY & PLUNGER ASSEMBLY 366 6
.70
1.65
2.20
4.85
4.35
08.50
1.50
790
13.65
2960
1.35
1.15
BM-2390
BM-2391
BM-2392
BM-2393
BM-2401
BM-2420
BM-2461
BM-2469
BM-2831
BM-2970
BM-2971
FUEL PUMP MAIN SHAFT ASSEMBLY
TUBE, NUGENT FILTER TO FUEL PUMP
TUBE, CUNO TO NUGENT FILTER
HBI
D-600 CUMMINS ENGINE PARTS NOT SHOWN
PART
NUMBER
H-4944
H-9220-1
H-9221
H-9245C. 1.
H-9876
H-63185
H-63186
H-63188
H-65825
H-66231
H-66232
S-103-A
S-109-A
S-223
S-901
S-1068
S-1069
S-1070
S-1071
S-1074
JB ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT FOR SUPER C
PART
WEIGHT
PRICE
No.
DESCRIPTION
PAGE
QTY.
Lb. Oi.
EACH
16574
STUD & LEAD ASSEMBLY
371,373
.093
$ .50
18137
FIELD COIL ASSEMBLY (4 COILS)
371,373
5 .875
12.00
18194
ARMATURE
390
.046
.70
18198
BRACKET, STOP
389
.093
.45
18201
WINDING
.390
. .500
6.00
18203
WINDING
389
. .578
3.75
18204
WINDING, SHUNT
.389
.1875
3.00
20173
SCREW
.389
.01
20915
WASHER, PLAIN (37/64x1/32x5/16")
371,373
. . .01
.05
20987
SCREW (#8-36 %")
.389,390
. .01
.01
22820
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT FOR SUPER C4
141601
SCREW (#10-3213/10")
371,382
.01
.01
141612
LOCKWASHER
371,372
. .014
.02
142210
SCREW
388
. .01
.01
142236
LOCKWASHER
388
.05
187944
FUSE
384,385
.01
.10
602691
OIL WICK (D.E.)
381
. . .01
.05
802696
OIL WICK (C.E.)
378
. . .01
.10
802729
LOCKWASHER (23/6413/64x 11/64")
378
.. .01
.01
802731
LOCKWASHER
384,385,388
14
. .01
.01
802760
LOCKWASHER
374,377,384,
.01
.01
386,388
804076
OIL WICK IN CENTER BEARING
377
. . .01
.05
804218
WASHER, PLAIN
384,385
1845630
COVER
388
625
1 00
1845744
BASE ASSEMBLY
388
.625
200
1845747
VOLTAGE REGULATOR ASSEMBLY
388
.125
1050
1845749
RESISTANCE UNIT
388
03!
50
1847218
CLIP. TERMINAL
383
.05
1847238
WASHER
382
05
1847239
WASHER, SPRING RETAINER (CUPPED)
382,384,386
.01
.05
1848183
STRIP, INSULATING
.01
05
1849235
WASHER (33/64 1 1/64 i 'A" )
382,384,386
.01
.05
1850695
SCREW & COVER BUMPER
389,390
.01
.10
1850699
CUT-OUT RELAY ASSEMBLY
388
1 110
900
1855481
DISC ON PUSH ROD
382,384,386
.156
1 25
18S5488
PLATE INSIDE
383,384.389
.016
SO
1855489
1868811
STRIP, INSULATION 3" UNDER STUD
380
.01
.05
1869007
TERMINAL PLATE & CONTACT
ASSEMBLY
384
11
10.00
1869008
CONTACT PLATE ASSEMBLY W/BLADES
384,387
.25
4.50
1869009
CONTACT PLATE ASSEMBLY LESS
BLADES W/STATIONARY POINTS
387
.203
2.00
1869022
CONTACT BLADE L.H. WITH
3 POINTS
384,387
.016
.80
1869025
CONTACT BLADE R.H. WITH
2 POINTS
384,387
.016
.80
1869028
PIN HINGE
384,387
.01
.05
1869029
SPRING, TENSION . ...
384,387
.01
.05
1869030
STUD & CONTACT
387
.188
2.75
1869332
NUT, STUD i/2x13x11/16"
387
.063
.20
1869033
PLUNGER BLACK INS. MATERIAL . .
384,387
. . .01
1902493 NUT 382 .05
1902494 LOCKWASHER 378,380,383, 4 .. .01 .03
384,385,387
1902495 WASHER, NUT PLAIN 383,384,385 2 .01 .05
1902651 LOCKWASHER 382 4 .01
1902652 SCREW 382 4 .01
1902653 LOCKWASHER, SCREW 379,382,384, 5 .. .01 .01
385
1903161 SCREW, TERMINAL 382,384,386 4 .10
1904233 SCREW 378 12 01
1904238 SCREW 379 6 .01
1904239 SCREW 379 6 .02
1904287 PLATE, TERMINAL .. 383 1 .25
5012568 WASHER, SCREW (C.E.)
25/64x1/32x17/64" 377 11 .. .01 .05
5024654 NUT#10-32x5/32" 3 .. .01 .03
866
ELECTRlCAt EQUIPMENT FOR SUPER C 4S
PART PRICE
No. DESCRIPTION . QTY. EACH
1850699 VOLTAGE REGULATOR ASSEMBLY 1
(Includes following shown on Page 389):
1850695 SCREW & COVER BUMPER 2 $ .10
106496 LOCKWASHER 4 .01
810794 PLAIN WASHER .05
22820 SCREW .05
1839044 BRACKET (AND POINTS) .75
18203 WINDING 3.75
1839042 ARMATURE 1.25
18198 STOP BRACKET .45
20987 SCREW .01
18204 SHUNT WINDING 3.00
37330 SUPPORT FOR SERIES WINDING
37339 ARMATURE SPRING . .. .15
1901832 LOCKWASHER .01
20173 SCREW '. .01
29991 MOUNTING NUT .. .05
FRAME (NOT A SERVICE PART)
SERIES WINDING (NOT A SERVICE PART)
1845747 CUT-OUT RELAY ASSEMBLY
1850695 SCREW & COVER BUMPER 2 .10
106496 LOCKWASHER 9 01
20987 SCREW 5 05
18201 WINDING 600
29991 MOUNTING NUT .05
22820 SCREW .05
30986 NUT . . . 05
1839109 SCREW (SILVER) .35
1839110 LOCKNUT .05
1873776 CONTACT BRACKET (LESS POINT) .55
810794 PLAIN WASHER .01
18194 ARMATURE .70
1843160 BRACKET SUPPORT 55
1841953 SPRING .10
SERIES COIL (NOT A SERVICE PART)
FRAME (NOT A SERVICE PART) ...
187174 BRUSH PLATE ASSEMBLY
1861790 SUPPORT PLATE (BRASS)
1861779 INSULATION PLATE
1861782 BRUSH PLATE & STUD
1861788 SCREW INSULATION
1861783 INSULATION PLATE (2 HOLE)
1865925 SPACE PLATE (INSULATED BRUSH)
1861784 BRUSH HOLDER
1861786 SCREW, LONGINS. BRUSH
1861785 SPRING
1904239 SCREW
1902653 LOCKWASHER
1861787 SCREW, LONGGROUNDED BRUSH
1861781 PLATE (GROUND BRUSH)
1904238 SCREW
12
12
It
184 ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT F&R SUPER C
1 869457
DRIVE HOUSING ASSEMBLY
1 1 5466
SCREW '/4-20 , y,
.03
113114
LOCKWASHER ,
.01
114998
OIL CUP
.05
1856826
BUSHING -.
.50
802691
OIL WICK
.05
COVER (NOT A SERVICE PART)
1857789
TERMINAL ASSEMBLY FOR SOLENOID
1855484
TERMINAL SCREW
2.50
1855488
PLATE (INSIDE)
.20
1904287
TERMINAL PLATE
.25
1858681
BUSHING
.01
1855490
BUSHING WASHER
.05
1885491
WASHER
.05
1873333
NUT
.05
1873334
NUT
.05
1902494
LOCKWASHER
.03
1847218
TERMINAL CLIP
.05
1902495
827913 THIRD BRUSH PLATE ASSEMBLY (LESS BRUSH):
826094 THIRD BRUSH PLATE ONLY
825183 BRUSH HOLDER (THIRD)
34501 PIN, ADJUSTING FOR 3RD BRUSH PLATE
1878260 BRUSH ARM
35777 BRUSH SPRING
1878261 SPACE SLEEVE
825184 BRUSH HOLDER STUD
825185 BUSHING (STEEL IN BRUSH HOLDER)
825190 BUSHING (IN BRUSH PLATE)
802731 LOCKWASHER
5024654 NUT#10-32x5/32" m
132911 SCREWS10-32iy8"
802731 LOCKWASHER
825187 WASHER2 HOLES
825H9 WASHER2 HOLES
825186 BRACKET
.25
.35
.30
.10
.10
.10
.10
.10
.01
.03
.01
.01
.05
.06
.20
S69
LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
496
PART
WEIGHT
PRICE
No.
DESCRIPTION
PAGE
QTY.
Lb.
Oi
EACH
C-1
CUP,' BEARING
444
12
$ 1.20
C-7
CONE, BEARING
424,425,430,
10
3.95
431
C-8
CUP, BEARING
424,425,430,
to
2.5S
431
C-9
CAP, REAR PLATE
430
1.30
C-11
CONE, BEARING
453,454
8.19
C-1 2
BEARING, STRAIGHT
438,449,451,
14
1.31
452
C-16
CONE, BEARING
444
14
1.90
C-40
LINING, CLUTCH
424,425
5.56
C-49
LINK, BRAKE
.406
MODEL SUPER C TOURNAPULL 49*3
C-1 523
NUT, NC HEX i/2"
393,395,412,
.03
413
C-1524
NUT, NF HEX i/2"
393,421,430,
28 . .
.03
432,455,456,
459,461,462,
463,464
C 1525
NUT, NC HEX y8" .
412,413,424,
18
.04
426,430
C-1526
NUT, NF HEX %"
392,395,421
8 ...
.04
C-1 527
NUT, NC HEX y4"
392,414,415,
16 . . . .
.05
430,442
C-1529
NUT, NC HEX %". .
448
8 .. ..
.08
C-1530
NUT, NF HEX %"
407,453,454
6..
.08
C-1531
NUT, NC HEX 1"
437,445,449,
19 . ..
.11
450,455
C-1 532
NUT, NF HEX 1" .
406
.11
C-1536
NUT, NC HEX CASTELLATED, 1 i/4"
465
4 12
.33
C-1538
LOCKWASHER, 5/16"
. 395,397,407,
70 . .
.01
411,417,421,
461,462,463,
464
C 1540
LOCKWASHER, '/2"
. 312,393,404,
150 . ..
C-16M
CAPSCREW, '/2xl'/2" NC
407,412,413,
60
.06
430,431
C-161S
CAPSCREW, i/2x1y4" NC
412,413,422,
430-
.06
C-1616
CAPSCREW, i/2x2" NC
422
.07
C 1621
CAPSCREW, i/2x3i/4" NC..
453,454,455
.11
C-1629
CAPSCREW, % x1y4" NC...
412,413,432
21
.11
C-1634
CAPSCREW, %x3" NC
412,413,424,
426,430
.15
C-1644
CAPSCREW, y4x2" NC
455,456
20
.17
'1645
CAPSCREW, y412'/i" NC
414
.. 6
.18
C-1648
CAPSCREW, y4x3" NC../
430,442
.20
C-1668
CAPSCREW, 1x3" NC
445
1..
.47
C-1673
CAPSCREW, %xiy4" NF
393
.03
C-1678
CAPSCREW, ft i '/V NF
415
D-1958
WRENCH, SOCKET
437
3.83
D-2378
BEARING, STRAIGHT
427,429
it
2.63
D-2562
CUP, TAPERED
407,409
19.32
D-2613
LINING, BRAKE (VELVETOUCH)
424
8.19
D-2614
LINING, CLUTCH (VELVETOUCH)
.424
>
16.52
D-2778
WASHER, i/2" SHAKEPROOF
.402,403
.01
D-2779
LOCKWASHER, %" SHAKEPROOF
404,405,412,
26
.02
413,432
D-2889
LOCKWASHER, i/2" SHAKEPROOF
407,412,413,
87
.01
424,425,430,
431,447
D-3184
CONE, TAPERED
407,409
15
14
2268
D-3528
BEARING, STRAIGHT ROLLER
427,428
12
1.75
D-3677
WRENCH, SOCKETHEAD
423
F-267
ROLLER, T BRAKE
424,426
.73
F-268
PIN, T BRAKE ROLLER
424,426
.31
F-416
SHAFT, L. DRUM
430,431
27
24.18
F-417
SHAFT, R. DRUM'
430,431
27
24.18
F-883
LOCKWASHER, SHAKEPROOF %"
402,403
12
ij
.03
F-1230
PIN, APRON HINGE
447
7.80
F-3121
BLADE BASE
437
425
100.00
F-3232
DRUM, BRAKE
455,466
84
40.60
F-3551
BOLT, 2x13i/"
.450
12
6.56
F-4022
SCREW, 12xi/2" DRIVE
.460
26
.01
F-5027
PIN, ROLLER
.439,449
4.18
F 5342
501
H-467
SWITCH
.420
.75
H-582
CONE, TAPERED
407,408
It
10.11
H-583
CUP, TAPERED
407.408
5.59
H-712
LINK, BRAKE
... .406
.37
H-722
BAND, C BRAKE LINED
... .406
25
53.88
H-727
PLATE LOCK
407,409
.40
H-738
WASHER, i/2" COPPER
407,409,414,
457
16
.03
H-745
PIN, 3/3Jx%" COTTER
. . .370,393,394,
396,397,404,
23
..
.01
H-748
CAPSCREW, 5/1 6 x %" NF. ..
407,421
405,420
16
.02
H-838
SHIM, SUPPORT
412,413
.05
H 839
SHIM, SUPPORT
412,413
.05
H-980
KEY, i/4 x I'/," WOODRUFF
392,404,405
>02
H-2644
NUT, 3/16" BRASS HEX
420
.05
H-2655
SOCKET, 1/16" BALL
.443
.40
H 2656
SOCKET, i/8" SHIM BALL
.443
.40
H-2673
SCREEN, FUEL FILTER
412,413
2.98
H-2676
CLAMP, 2" HOSE
411
.20
H-2682
GUIDE LAMP ASSEMBLY
421
68
11.50
H-2692
12 VOLT HORN ASSEMBLY
420
7.83
H-2738
CONE, MALE, W/LINING (DRILLED)
. 404,405
44
48.10
H-2739
CONE, MALE, W/LINING
404,405
53
54.33
H-2770
CLEVIS
.432
.82
H-2812
GASKET
453,454
.20
H-2817
GASKET
453,454
.20
H-2824
GASKET ..:
.427
H-2920
HOUSING, GEAR SHIFT LEVER .
. .395,396,397
5.31
H-2921
SHAFT, CLUTCH
396,398
It
32.68
H-2922
GEAR, COUNTERSHAFT DRIVE
..396,399
12
17.21
H-2923
COVER, BEARING
..396
7.63
H-2924
GASKET
.396
.10
H-2925
YOKE, 3RD & 4TH SHIFTING
. 396,398
5.06
H-2926
YOKE, 1ST & 2ND SHIFTING
..396,398
5.23
H-2927
YOKE, REVERSE SPEED SHIFTING
.400,401
7.51
H-2928
BAR, 3RD & 4TH YOKE
. 395
3.04
H-2929
BAR, 1ST & 2ND YOKE
. .395
10
3.04
H-2930
BAR, REVERSE YOKE
395,400,401
H-3175 DRIVEN DISC & FACING ASSEMBLY 393,394 1 11 10
H-3176 FACING, CLUTCH 393 2 2
H-3179 PRESSURE & STUD ASSEMBLY 393,394 1 26
H-3180 FLYWHEEL RING & STUD ASSEMBLY 393,394 1 20
H-3182 SLEEVE ASSEMBLY 393,394 1 I ..
H-3184 RETRACTOR SPRING 393,394 4 .. .
H-3185 LEVER, PRESSURE 393,394 20 .. t
H-3186 STRAP, ADJUSTING 393,394 6 _. '..
H-3187 RING, SNAP 393,394 1 .. ..
H-3188 RING, FULCRUM 393,394 2 . 6
H-3189 SHIM, ADJUSTING 393,394 36 .. ..
H-3194 BALL, LEVER 393,394 20 .. ..
H-3195 STUD 393,394 4 .. ..
H-3196 STUD '393,394 6 .. ..
H-3197 SPRING STOP PIN 393 1 .. .
H-3208 CLIP, SMALL U 391,419,420 11 .2
H-3252 BOOT 406 2 .. I
H-3278 HOUSING, CABLE CUTTER 434 1 5
H-3279 SHAFT, CABLE CUTTER 434 1 2 12
H-3280 BLADE, CABLE CUTTER TOP 434 1 .. 2
H-3281 DIE, CABLE CUTTER BOTTOM 434 2 .. t
H-3349 ROLLER ARM ASSEMBLY 424,426 2 5
H-3464 CONE, TAPERED 396,398 224
H-3465 CUP, TAPERED 396,398 2 1
H-3500 ARM, BRAKE SPRING ARM PIVOT 424 2 1 4
H-3511 MAIN CASE STRUCTURE FOR PCU 424 1 193 .
H-3543 NUT, BRASS UNION 419 1 ..
H-3590 SHIM 403 4 .. ..
H-3594 CAM, RIGHT BRAKE 432 1 S 4
H-3596 CAM, LEFT BRAKE 432 1 5 4
H-3730 CLIP, SPRING 432 2 .. 9
H-4241 CLAMP, 7/8" CABLE 416,417 2 1
H-4270 GAUGE, OIL PRESSURE 420 1 .. S
H-4433 WRENCH, ALLEN 423 1 12
H-4434 AMMETER 420 1 .. 4
H-4629 CAPSCREW, % y4" NC 414 4 .. ..
H-4634 COVER, BATTERY 414 2 1 8
H-4638 PEDAL, CLUTCH 393 1 2
H-4669 CLIP, CABLE 391 1 ..2
H-5118 HOUSING, SLIDING SHEAVE 440 1 76
H-5119 SPACER 440 298
H-5288 PLATE, BUMPER 441 1 9
H-5304 LOCKWASHER, %" SHAKEPROOF 393,394,421 10 .. ..
H-5322 CLIP 460 6 .. 1
H-5334 HEAT GAUGE 420 1 1
H-5335 CLIP 420 4 .. ..
H-5336 LIGHT, DASH 420 2 .. J
H-5337 PANEL, INSTRUMENT 420 1 2
H-5409 CONE, TAPERED 453,454 292
H-5455 HEADLIGHT BODY ASSEMBLY 421 2 5
H-5456 DOOR, HEADLIGHT 421 2 1
H-5457 CLIP, LENS 421
H-5458 SCREW 421
H-5459 LOCKWASHER 421
H-5460 SPRING 421
H-5461 LENS ASSEMBLY 421 .. 6
H-5465 TERMINAL, PLATE 421
H-5466 SCREW, TERMINAL 421
H-5468 SCREW, TERMINAL 421 .. 4
H-5469 NUT 421
H-5470 LOCKWASHER 421
H-5471 CUP, WASHER 421
H-5472 WASHER, INSULATING 421
H-5473 BULB SOCKET & WIRE ASSEMBLY 421
25.29
4.51
25.65
21.45
8.55
H-5476
REFLECTOR ASSEMBLY
421
1.00
H-5477
GASKET
421
.10
H-5478
GASKET
.421
.05
H-5603
NUT, i/8"
457,460
.10
H-5604
HOSE, BRAKE 24"
460
3.00
H-5605
FITTING, BRASS TIE
460
.35
H-5668
BUMPER
412,413
62
12.80
H-5689
SHIM, BOLT PLATE
459
.20
H-5692
BRACKET, INSIDE
.459
20
9.50
H-5694
BRACKET, OUTSIDE
459
15
7.40
H-5699
PEDAL, BRAKE
459
1.05
H-5765
NUT, ya" NF CASTELLATED
393,394,396,
.06
397
H-6333
PIN, TRIPLE SHEAVE
438
4.05
H-6335
PIN, PUSHBEAM ROLLER
438
3.03
H-6420
PIN, DOUBLE SHEAVE
438,446
3.05
H-6423
HEAD STRUCTURE, SHEAVE HOUSING
446
133
42.3S
H-6424
HOUSING, A-FRAME SHEAVE
438
133
42.35
H-64J7
PIN, GANG SHEAVE
441
It
6.13
H-6430
L P PUSHBEAM STRUCTURE
445
270
86.75
H-6791
STAYBOLT
407
1.J5
H-6849
CAPSCREW, y8*%" NC
412,413
.39
H-6864
SHIM, MASTER CYLINDER BRACKET
459
.4!
H-6879
CAPSCREW, % 1 5y4" NC
412,413
50
H-8021
SPRING, CENTRALIZER
461,462,463,
.4
.20
464
H-8022
RETAINER, OUTER
461,462,463
.. 2
.25
464
H-8023
NUT, ADJUSTING
. 461 ,462,463
.3
JO
464
H-8024
LOCK, RETAINER
461,462,463,
.05
464
H-8025
SCREW, LEFT ADJUSTING
461, 463,
.6
1.40
464
H-8026
SCREW, RIGHT ADJUSTING
461,462,463,
1.40
464
H-8027
PIN, ANCHOR
461,462,463,
19
4.95
464
H-8028
NUT, LOCK
461,462,463,
55
464
H-8029
LOCKWASHER
.461,462,463,
.. 1
.25
464
H-8031
PLATE, REINFORCEMENT
461,462,463,
1 14
2.50
H-8449
VALVE, BLEEDER .
465,466
.10
H-8500
SCREW, #10-32 x '/" MACHINE
465,466
.01
H-8524
CAPSCREW. % %" NC . . .
395,396,400,
17
401,424
H-8525
SPRING, PRESSURE
393,394
10
4.58
H-8549
ELBOW, FLEXIBLE
419
.80
H-8600
CAP, BENDIX MASTER CYL. CAP
457,458
.28
H-8601
GASKET, BENDIX MASTER CYL
.457,458
.06
H 8602
CASE, BENDIX MASTER CYL
457,458
10.00
H 8603
VALVE, BENDIX MASTER CYL. CHECK
457,458
.60
H-8604
CUP, BENDIX MASTER CYL. PRIMARY
457,458
.28
H-8605
SPRING, BENDIX MASTER CYL
457,458
.28
H-8613
TUBING ASSEMBLY
.460
4.35
H 8615
TUBING ASSEMBLY
.460
3.90
H 8617
TUBING ASSEMBLY
.460
L-3725 SEAL, OIL 424,425 2 ..'3
L-5754 SEAL, OIL 453,454 2 10
L-37050 SEAL, OIL 424 2 2
R-25 SHIM, DRAWBAR CLAMP .. 443
R-28 CAPSCREW, i/zxl y4" NF 418 8 ....
R-76 WRENCH, SOCKET 423 1 .. 8
R-77 SETSCREW, '/, x 3'/j" NC 404,405 4 . . 2
R-86 BUSHING, 'A x %" REDUCING 419 1 ..2
R-162 PLUG, MAGNETIC PIPE 416,417 2 .. 8
R-194 KEY, 5/32x1 i/j" COTTER 392 2 .. ..
R-209 WIRE, FRONT LIGHT 391 1 ..8
R-211 WIRE, CRANKING MOTOR TO GROUND 391 1 ..8
R-212 WIRE, SOLENOID ON STARTER TO
SERIES PARALLEL 391 1 .. 1
R-213 WIRE, CRANKING MOTOR SOLENOID
TO SERIES PARALLEL SWITCH 391 1 ..1
R-214 WIRE, SOLENOID TO SERIES PARALLEL 391 1 ..1
R-215 WIRE, STARTING MOTOR TO SOLENOID 391 1 .. 7
R-216 WIRE, R. BATTERY TO SERIES PARALLEL 391 1 4
R-217 WIRE, R. BATTERY TO STARTING MOTOR.391 1 2 12
R-218 WIRE, L. BATTERY TO SERIES PARALLEL
SWITCH 391 1 2
R-219 WIRE, SCRAPER LIGHT 391' 1 .. 6
R-221 WIRE, SOLENOID TO STARTER 391 1 .. 1
R-453 BAR, 30" PRY 423 1 10 ..
R-496 KEY, 5/16x4" COTTER 440 3 ....
R-779 CAPSCREW, '/,x2%" NF (DRILLED) 414 2 .. .
R-787 CAPSCREW, % x 2'/2" NF SOCKETHEAD . 404,405 4 .. 4
R-854 BOSS, RETAINER 407,409 2 8 12
R-855 RETAINER 407,409 2 10 12
R-874 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE. 404,405 2 32 ..
R-948 CONE, FEMALE 404,405 2 60
R-968 GUARD, "C" OIL TANK 412,413 1 79 .
R-982 NUT, i/8" NF SPECIAL HEX 392 2 .. 8
R-983 SHAFT, CLUTCH & BRAKE LEVER 392 2 2 ..
R-986 LEVER, L. BRAKE 392 1 7 ..
R-987 LEVER, R. CLUTCH 392 1 7 .
R-988 LEVER, L. CLUTCH 392 1 7 ..
R-990 ARM, BRAKE LEVER 459 1 7 . .
R-1004 NECK STRUCTURE 452 1 82
R-1018 BUTTON, HORN 420 1 ..6
R-1019 WIRE, HORN BUTTON TO RELAY 391 1 .. ..
R-1020 WIRE, HORN SWITCH GROUND 391 1 ....
R-1021 WRENCH, WHEEL BOLT 423 1 49
R-1203 BAR, PUSHER 450 1 150 .
R-1306 PIN, TAILGATE ROLLER 449 2 12 ..
R-1605 WIRE, STARTER BUTTON GROUND 391 1 .. 1
R-1606 HARNESS, MAIN WIRING 391 1 2
R-1609 PLATE, LOCKING 407,408 2 .. ..
R-1664 SWITCH, "C" STARTING 420 1 ..8
R-1682 WEDGE CABLE 416,417 244
R-1702 WHEEL STRUCTURE, 18.00x24 452,454 2 360
R-1724 WRENCH, TOURNAPULL 423 1 2 8
R-1733 BOOT, NEOPRENE ... 418 4 . 2
R-1765 LEG, LP AXLE SUPPORT 442 2 31 .
R-1903 AXLE, 18x24 SGL. REAR 453,454 2 96
R-1963 CAPSCREW, i/2xlH" NF TAPER HEAD .. 414 13 .. I
R-1964 PLATE, DECK 414 1 452 ..
R-1993 WIRE, BATTERY TO ENGINE GROUND . 391 128
R-2025 PIN, BRAKE LINK 406 10 .. 1
R-2027 NUT, i/2" NC JAM 404,405 4 .. .
R-2085 SHIM, "C" MOTOR SUPPORT 412,413 .. ..12
R-2086 SHIM, "C" MOTOR SUPPORT 412,413 .. .. 6
.60
2.11
7.35
.06
.09
1.00
R 5197
LUG, "C" BRAKE SPRING
.406
.20
P. 2180
CASE & TANK STRUCTURE
412
1 2300
95500
R-2182
ADAPTER, BRAKE
455,456
2 35
14.38
R-2197
BULLGEAR, C TOURNAPULL
407,409
2 170
129.50
R-2260
RIVET, #7 9/1 6" STEEL
424
48
O.80
R-23S2
INSTRUMENT PANEL ASSEMBLY
420
16
33 55
R-2379
SOCKET, %" CABLE
416417
22
1 45
R 3106
SHIM, 18 GA. BALL SOCKET
.443
.40
R-3114
LEVER, R. BRAKE
393
4.12
R-3121
PLATE, C1 CENTER FLOOR
414
33
12.80
R-3122
PLATE, C1 L. FLOOR
414
14
4.85
R 3123
PLATE, C1 R. FLOOR .
414
14
4.85
R 3138
SPRING, C THROTTLE
370
.41
R-3148
YOKE STRUCTURE
443
R-7013
WASHER, NEOPRENE
419
.12
R-7065
GASKET . .
417
.16
R-7066
INSULATOR
. 370
.04
R-7109
PLATE COVER
417
28
.95
R-7119
CASE MAIN
413
2350
958.00
R-7132
COVER
437
11 . .
1.69
R-7133
CONTAINER ASSEMBLY . .
437
37 .
10.00
R-8132
LINE, PRESSURE
419
1.05
R-8339
NUT ASSEMBLY
402
2 12
2.82
R-8862
LOOM. FIBRE
..419
.12
512
PART
NUMBER
DESCRIPTION
WEIGHT PRICE
QTY. Lb. Oz. EACH
S-1116 STEERING CLUTCH ASSEMBLY 1 225
(Includes following parts shown on Pages 404 & 405):
F-8236 CLUTCH THROWOUT COLLAR STRUCTURE 1
H-8340 BEARING, BALL 1
F-8235 BUSHING, THROWOUT COLLAR J
R-787 CAPSCREW, % 1 2i/2" NF I
D-2779 WASHER, %" SHAKEPROOF J
F-8160 SPIDER, SLIDING 1
F-8161 FINGERS, CLUTCH 4
F-8162 LINKS, CLUTCH FINGER 8
F-8234 PIN, CLUTCH FINGER LINK 12
F-8248 NUT, LINK PIN II
H-745 PIN, 3/32 y4" COTTER II
H-9977 ADJUSTING SPIDER STRUCTURE 1
R-77 SETSCREW, i/2î/j" NC I
R-2027 NUT, '/2" NC LOCK I
R-948 CONE, FEMALE 1
HJ738 CONE STRUCTURE, SPLINED DRIVING 1
R-874 PLATE STRUCTURE, CLUTCH DRIVE 1
C-1679 PLATE, BOLTING CLUTCH DRIVE I
C-1540 LOCKWASHERS, '/j" 8
H-2739 CONE STRUCTURE, DRIVING 1
H-8088 MASTER CLUTCH ASSEMBLY 1 80
H-3176 FACING, CLUTCH I
H-3175 DRIVEN DISK & FACING ASSEMBLY 1
D-3679 RIVET, BRAKE LINING ... 30
H-3185 LEVER, PRESSURE JO
H-3194 BALL, LEVER 10
H-3188 RING, FULCRUM I
H-3187 RING, SNAP 1
H-3179 PRESSURE & STUD ASSEMBLY 1
H-2877 HOUSING, CLUTCH 1
H-3189 SHIM, ADJUSTING 3*
H-3186 STRAP, ADJUSTING o
H-3196 STUD 6
C-1522 NUT 6
H-5304 LOCKWASHER 6
H-3182 SLEEVE ASSEMBLY 1
H-3197 PIN 1
H-8525 SPRING 1
H-9663 PLATE 1
H-5765 NUT 4
H-745 COTTER PIN 4
H-3184 SPRING 4
H-3195 STUD 4
H-3180 RING & STUD ASSEMBLY 1
R-3279 RADIATOR ASSEMBLY 1 400
(Includes following parts shown on Page 411):
C-1603 BOLT 8
C-1521 NUT 8
C-312 LOCKWASHER 13
C-1602 CAPSCREW 18
H-6918 RADIATOR, RIGHT SIDE 1
H-6917 RADIATOR, LEFT SIDE 1
H-7997 SCREW 6
C-1546 LOCKWASHER *
H-9920 SHROUD, FAN 1
C-1598 BOLT .34
$259.00
8200
159.50
886
PART
NUMBER
DESCRIPTION
WEIGHT PRICE
QTY. Lb. Oi. EACH
C-1520 NUT 16
C-1538 LOCKWASHER 40
H-8092 SCREW 4
R-3487 TUBING, OVERFLOW 1
C-7642 CAPSCREW 2
C-1543 LOCKWASHER 1
R-3365 SHIM
R-3366 SHIM
H-6915 TOP TANK 1
H-6921 CAP ASSEMBLY 1
H-6923 GASKET 1
H-6924 GASKET 2
H-7999 STRIP 4
C-1520 NUT 18
R-3486 CORE 1
H-6919 BAR, CENTER 1
H-7990 SCREW, PHILLIPS 6
H-6913 GRILL 1
H-7971 SCREW 3
H-7998 CUP WASHER 3
H-7257 COVER 1
H-7255 GASKET 1
R-3484 TANK, BOTTOM 1
R-5052 DRAWBAR ASSEMBLY 1 175 .. 119.20
C-1681 CAPSCREW 8
H-8943 BALL STRUCTURE 2
H-8944 DRAWBAR STRUCTURE 1
H-8949 PLUG 2
R-28 CAPSCREW 8
H-8945 KEEPER 2
H-8947 BLOCK 2
H-9362 BUTTONHEAD 2
R-1733 BOOT 4
H-8948 KEEPER 2
H-2782 HEAD LAMP ASSEMBLY 2 68 11.50
H-5456 DOOR 1
H-748 CAPSCREW 4
C-1538 LOCKWASHER 4
H-5478 GASKET 1
H-5460 SPRING 4
H-5477 GASKET 1
H-5461 LENS ASSEMBLY 1
H-6024 BULB
H-2682 GUIDE LAMP ASSEMBLY
H-5457 CLIP
H-5458 SCREW
H-5459 LOCKWASHER
H-5455 BODY ASSEMBLY
H-5476 REFLECTOR ASSEMBLY
H-5473 BULB SOCKET & WIRE ASSEMBLY
H-5468 SCREW
H-2643 LOCKWASHER
H-5469 NUT
H-5470 LOCKWASHER
H-5471 CUP
H-5472 WASHER
H-5465 TERMINAL
H-9667 TERMINAL ASSEMBLY
88]
LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
514
H-5466 SCREW 1
H-2643 LOCKWASHER 1
C-1550 FLATWASHER 1
C-1541 LOCKWASHER 1
C-1526 NUT 1
H-8071 PUSHBEAM ASSEMBLY 1 330 .. 143.00
(Includes following parti shown on Pages 445 & 446):
F-8620 HINGE PIN 1
C-1558 COTTER KEY 1
H-6430 PUSHBEAM STRUCTURE 1
C-1668 BOLT 1
C-1531 NUT 1
H-6423 HEAD STRUCTURE, SHEAVE HOUSING 1
F-9991 SHEAVE PIN 1
F-9989 PIN NUT 1
C-315 ZERK FITTING 1
H-171 SHEAVE 5
H-225 BEARING 5
F-9988 BUSHING 5
H-6420 PIN t
D-9894 CABLE DRUM ASSEMBLY (LEFT) 1 110 . 114.58
E-8635 CONE (DRIVEN) 1
C-1614 CAPSCREW 12
D-2889 LOCKWASHER 1J
F-416 DRUM SHAFT 1
C-196 SPRING 1
C-83 DRUM STRUCTURE 1
L-1624 OIL SEAL I
C-7 BEARING CUP 2
C-8 CONE (BEARING) J
E-8619 SHIM
F-5342 SHIM
E-5251 PLUG 1
D-9895 CABLE DRUM ASSEMBLY (RIGHT) 1 110 114.58
F-417 DRUM SHAFT 1
E-8635 DRIVEN CONE 1
C-83 DRUM STRUCTURE 1
C-7 BEARING CUP J
C-8 BEARING CONE J
L-1624 OIL SEAL I
E-8618 SHIM
F-5342 SHIM
C-1614 CAPSCREW 24
D-2889 LOCKWASHER 24
E-5251 PLUG 1
H-3150 CABLE CUTTER ASSEMBLY 1 8 10.70
H-6025 PIN 1
H-3280 BLADE 1
H-3281 BLADE t
H-3279 SHAFT 1
H-3278 HOUSING . 1
88*
LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
F-6810 APRON ASSEMBLY 1 1550
H-290 APRON STRUCTURE
D-2889 LOCKWASHER
C-1612 CAPSCREW
F-1230 PIN
C-315 ZERK
F-7255 WEDGE
F-7860 HINGE
C-2508 COTTER
F-8448 PIN
R-6218 TAILGATE ASSEMBLY 1750
(Includes following shown on Pages 448 & 449):
R-6217 TAILGATE STRUCTURE
F-7255 CABLE WEDGE
C-503 CABLE SOCKET
C-502 CABLE WEDGE
E-7888 SETSCREW
C-1529 NUT
C-1552 LOCKWASHER
H-2465 HOUSING, ROLLER
C-133 ROLLER
C-12 BEARING
L-135 DUST SEAL
C-1558 COTTER KEY 4
C-134 PIN 4
C-1596 ZERK 4
C-131 MAIN ROLLER 4
C-177 BEARING 4
L-323 DUST SEAL
C-1051 COTTER
F-5027 ROLLER PIN
C-315 ZERK FITTING
R-1306 ROLLER PIN
C-1577 BOLT
C-1531 NUT ..'
C-1544 LOCKWASHER 2
H-1106 SPIRAL SHEAVE ASSEMBLY 1 80
C-7376 SPIRAL SHEAVE STRUCTURE 1
C-3787 CABLE WEDGE 1
C-445 CABLE WEDGE 1
C-12 BEARING 4
C-8093 BEARING SPACER 1 -
C-336 BEARING RACE .... J
C-337 BEARING RACE . 2
L-135 DUST SEAL t
C-1558 COTTER KEY 2
H-1221-1 SHEAVE PIN 1
R-5226 18x24 SGL. REAR BRAKE WHEEL ASSEMBLY 2 500
(Includes following shown on Pages 453 & 454:)
R-1702 WHEEL STRUCTURE
R-1903 AXLE STRUCTURE
H-2420 SLIDING RING
C-1277 LOCKING RING
R-3410 NUT ASSEMBLY
L-85 OIL SEAL
C-1621 CAPSCREW 4
D-1255 HUB CAP STRUCTURE
C-11 BEARING CONE
503.18
616.00
50.75
203.75
OOy
LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
516
C-320 BEARING CUP ... .
H-2812 GASKET
C-321 BEARING CUP ..
H-5409 BEARING CONE
L-5754 OIL SEAL
C-620 RETAINER
C-161S CAPSCREW . 4
H-2817 GASKET
H 4574 BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY 9 13.25
H-8091 RING
H-8090 BOOT
H-8089 RING
H-8098 ROD
H-8096 RING
H-8097 WASHER
H-8099 PISTON
H-8600 CAP
H-8601 GASKET
H-8602 CASE
H-8603 VALVE
C-5768 PLUG
H-8605 SPRING
H-8604 CUP
H-4575 BENDIX BRAKE ASSEMBLY (RIGHT) 1 60 . 74.85
H-8001 BACKING PLATE ASSEMBLY 1
H-9581 BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY 1
H-8015 CENTRALIZER ASSEMBLY 1
H-8027 ANCHOR PIN 2
H-8028 ANCHOR PIN NUT J
H-8029 ANCHOR PIN LOCKWASHER J
H-8030 COTTER PIN t
H-8031 ANCHOR PIN REINF. PLATE I
H-8032 SHOE SPACER 4
H-8033 SHOE HOLD-DOWN PIN 4
H-8034 SHOE HOLD-DOWN SPRING CUP 8
H-8035 COTTER PIN 4
H-8036 SHOE HOLD-DOWN SPRING 4
H-8037 ANCHOR TO PRIM. SHOE SPRING 1
H-8038 ANCHOR TO SEC. SHOE SPRING 1
H-8039 ADJUSTING SCREW SPRING 1
H-8040 BRAKE SHOE PIVOT PIN
H-8041 PIVOT PIN COTTER PIN
H-8042 CENTRALIZER PLATE
H-8043 NUT
H-8044 LOCKWASHER
H-8045 CONDUIT HOLE COVER PLATE
H-8046 BOLT
H-8047 LOCKWASHER
H-8048 PRIM. TO SEC. SHOE SPRING
H-8049 CONNECTING LINK
H-8050 SCREW
H-8051 LOCKWASHER
H-5602 CYLINDER ASSEMBLY 1
H-4576 BENDIX BRAKE ASSEMBLY (LEFT) 1 60 .. 74.85
(Includes Following shown on Pages 463 & 464):
H-8000 BACKING PLATE ASSEMBLY 1
H-9580 BRAKE SHOE ASSEMBLY 1
H-8015 CENTRALIZER ASSEMBLY 1
H-8027 ANCHOR PIN 2
890
LIST OF ASSEMBLIES
H-8028
ANCHOR PIN NUT
H-8029
ANCHOR PIN LOCKWASHER
..2
H-8030
COTTER PIN
H-8031
ANCHOR PIN REINF. PLATE
.1
H-8032
SHOE SPACER
H-8033
SHOE HOLD-DOWN PIN
.4
H-8034
SHOE HOLD-DOWN SPRING CUP
H-8035
COTTER PIN
H-8036
SHOE HOLD-DOWN SPRING
H-8037
ANCHOR TO PRIM. SHOE SPRING . . .
H-8038
ANCHOR TO SEC. SHOE SPRING
H-8039
ADJUSTING SCREW PIN
H-8040
BRAKE SHOE PIVOT SPRING
H-8041
PIVOT PIN COTTER PIN
H-8042
CENTRALIZER PLATE
H-8043
NUT
H-8044
LOCKWASHER
H-8045
CONDUIT HOLE COVER PLATE
H-8046
BOLT
H-8047
LOCKWASHER
H 8048
PRIM. TO SEC. SHOE SPRING
H-8049
CONNECTING LINK
H-80S0
SCREW

TM 5-1202 SCRAPER LeTOURNEAU MDL SUPER C TOURNAPULL WITH MDL LP CARRYALL LeTOURNEAU, 1944

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v^

WAR D E P AH M E N T TECHNICAL MANUAL

IAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS AND PARTS CATALOG

WAR DEPARTMENT MARCH, 1944

Generated on 2013-12-22 11:21 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3241301 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google

WAR DEPT. PURCHASE ORDER NO. C-6/40

WAR DEPT. PURCHASE ORDER NO. C-6545

WAR DEPT. PURCHASE ORDER NO. C-6562

WAR DEPT. PURCHASE ORDER NO. C-7001

Generated on 2013-12-22 11:21 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3241301 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google

Washington 25, D. C., (IMar. 44)

TM5-1202, Scraper, Road, Motorized Cable-

Operated, 12-Cu. Yd., LeTourneau, Model Super C

Tournapull, With Model LP Carryall, is published

for the information and guidance of all concerned.

(A.G. 300.7) 1 Mar. 44)

By order of the Secretary of War:

The Adjutant General.

X (For explanation of Symbol see FM 21-6)

Annies(lO); Corps(lO); SvC(lO); Def Comd(2);

D(2); B(2); 1C 5(2); Tech Sv(2). 1C 5: T/0 &

E-5-267 , Engr Base Dep Co; 5-377, Base Equip Co;

5-412, Hq & Hq & Sv Co, Avn Regt.

Generated on 2013-12-22 11:21 GMT / http://hdl.handle.net/2027/uc1.b3241301 Public Domain, Google-digitized / http://www.hathitrust.org/access_use#pd-google

Description of Machine ^ . Preface

Preparation for Initial Operation 34 and 35

Operating Instructions 35 thru 59

Safety Precautions 60 and 61

Operation under Dusty, Muddy, Low Temperature, High

Temperature and Other Abnormal Conditions 62 and 63

Operator's Maintenance 64 thru 115

Fuels and Care of Fuel System 77 thru 81

Care of Engine and Accessories 82 thru 89

Operator's Adjustments 90 thru 103

Tire Inflation and Tire Care 105 thru 108

Cable Threading 108 thru 113

Preparation for Storage H .......... 116

Preparation for Export Shipment . .... 116

Tournapull Repair Section

(Disassembly, Assembling, Adjustments) 121 thru 174

Engine Repair Section

(Disassembly, Re-assembly, Adjustment) 175 thru 263

Power Control Unit Repair Section

(Disassembly, Re-assembly, Adjustments) 265 thru 292

Scraper Repair Section

(Disassembly, Re-assembly, Adjustments) 293 thru 302

Table of Clearances and Tolerances 304 and 305

Trouble Shooter's Guide 306 thru 323

Engine Section 328 thru 370

Electrical Section 371 thru 390

Tournapull Section 391 thru 423

Power Control Unit Section 424 thru 434

Scraper Section 435 thru 456

Hydraulic Brake Section 457 thru 466

Spare Parts and Price List 467 and up