Kasha Varnishkes

Buckwheat groats, mushrooms, caramelized onions, and pasta come together in this hearty Jewish dish.

Kasha Varnishkes
Photo:

Food & Wine / Photo by Robby Lozano / Food Styling by Emily Nabors Hall / Prop Styling by Josh Hoggle

Active Time:
40 mins
Total Time:
50 mins
Servings:
6

This hearty Ashkenazi Jewish dish spells coziness and comfort: combining kasha, aka buckwheat groats, with varnishkes, aka bow tie egg noodles, alongside caramelized onions, mushrooms, and thyme. Toasting the kasha and then cooking it like rice until tender adds a nutty and earthy taste that is the perfect vehicle for the homey flavors of schmaltz and caramelized onions. Serve with brisket or a roast chicken — or anytime you want to feel warm. 

Frequently Asked Questions

  • What is kasha varnishkes?

    Kasha varnishkes is a traditional Ashkenazi Jewish dish that consists of two main components: kasha (buckwheat groats) and varnishkes (egg noodles shaped like bow ties). Kasha are small, hulled kernels with a nutty flavor. Varnishkes, like other egg-based pastas, are boiled until al dente. In addition to bow-ties, they can also be shaped as squares.

  • Can you eat kasha varnishkes on Passover?

    Kasha varnishkes can be eaten on Passover if prepared with kosher-for-Passover ingredients, such as Passover-approved pasta.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Toasting the buckwheat groats in a dry pan before cooking enhances its nutty flavor and helps to prevent a mushy texture.

Make ahead

The caramelized onions and buckwheat groats can be made a day in advance and refrigerated. Any leftover Kasha Varnishkes can be refrigerated for up to three days.

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Ingredients

  • 1 pound sliced fresh cremini mushrooms

  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

  • 8 thyme sprigs, plus leaves for garnish 

  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste

  • 1/2 teaspoons black pepper, divided, plus more to taste

  • 2/3 cup uncooked buckwheat groats

  • 1 large egg white, beaten

  • 1 1/3 cups tap water, plus more as needed

  • 1/2 cup schmaltz or unsalted butter, divided

  • 2 medium red onions, thinly sliced (4 cups)

  • 12 ounces uncooked farfalle pasta

  • Thinly sliced fresh chives

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss together mushrooms, oil, thyme sprigs, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper on a large rimmed baking sheet. Roast in preheated oven, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven; discard thyme sprigs, and set mushroom mixture aside.

  2. While mushrooms roast, stir together groats and egg white in a small bowl until groats are evenly coated. Heat a medium saucepan over medium-low. Add groat mixture, and cook, stirring constantly, until groats are toasted and dried all the way through, about 3 minutes. Add water and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high; reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, covered and undisturbed, until liquid is absorbed and groats are tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Set aside.

  3. Heat 1/4 cup of the schmaltz (or butter) in a large deep-sided skillet over medium. Add onions and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; cook, stirring often, until mixture is very soft and browned, about 20 minutes, adding more water, 2 tablespoons at a time, as needed to deglaze and prevent browned bits from burning.

  4. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high. Add pasta; cook according to package directions for al dente, about 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 2 cups cooking water.

  5. Add cooked pasta, roasted mushrooms, 1 cup reserved cooking liquid, and remaining 1/4 cup schmaltz to onion mixture in skillet. Cook over medium, stirring constantly, until liquid thickens to a saucy consistency and coats pasta, about 3 minutes, adding up to remaining 1 cup cooking water, as needed, to achieve desired sauce consistency. Remove from heat, and stir in cooked groats. Season with additional salt and black pepper to taste. Divide mixture evenly among 6 bowls. Garnish with chives and additional thyme leaves. Serve.

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