Bittersweet Amaro Is the Secret to a Black Manhattan — Here Are 12 Bartender Favorites

The modern classic cocktail calls for Averna amaro, but there are countless bitter Italian liqueurs you can swap in.

Brucato Chaparral Amaro, Foro Amaro, Amaro Nonino, a Black Manhattan
Photo:

Food & Wine / Brucato Amaro / Chatham Imports Inc / NONINO DISTILLATORI / Tim Nusog

Looking to update a classic Manhattan? Embrace an even richer and more robust variation, the Black Manhattan, by swapping out vermouth for something a little moodier. 

“The traditional Black Manhattan consists of rye whiskey, Averna amaro, and a blend of Angostura bitters and orange bitters,” says Toby Tseung, a bartender at The Bar at Fairmont Century Plaza in Los Angeles. 

According to Tseung, the drink’s allure is the bittersweet element of amaro that replaces the sweet vermouth. “[The] addition of orange bitters provides a slightly lighter element to enhance the cocktail,” he says.

“A Black Manhattan is a great gateway cocktail for folks who are new to bitter cocktails, since Averna is less bitter than other amari,” says Sammi Katz, the co-author of Spirited Women.

The original recipe, created in 2005 by Todd Smith of San Francisco’s Bourbon & Branch, calls for Averna amaro. However, you can use a range of amari to create endless variations. (Alternatively, you can break further from tradition and trade rye for rum.

For years, the bitter Italian liqueur section of liquor stores seemed nearly nonexistent. These days, there’s more amari than ever at our disposal. Some excellent brands are even made stateside. A range of bartenders have offered to guide us through a few of their favorite amaro to mix into a Black Manhattan. Here are their favorites.

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Averna

Amaro Averna Siciliano

Food & Wine / Amaro Averna Siciliano

“Averna is a bittersweet liquor with a variety of flavors to give its distinct body and profile,” says Dustin Asalone, the bartender and supervisor at Shaker Mill, a cocktail bar in Santa Barbara, California. “On its own, the amaro offers hints of orange, rosemary, and sage, with a lingering bitterness and underlying sweet notes of caramel.”

Averna is the amaro called for in the original Black Manhattan recipe, and some bartenders suggest sticking with this modern classic variation.

Sammi Katz, the co-author of "Spirited Women"

“I always use the tried-and-true Amaro Averna. This Sicilian amaro has a depth of flavor that adds richness to a Manhattan, making the cocktail super smooth and full-bodied.”

— Sammi Katz, the co-author of "Spirited Women"

“Adding [Averna] to a Manhattan in place of sweet vermouth adds a distinctive body to the cocktail and a heavier, bitter mouthfeel that invites more spice notes than the classic,” says Asalone.

Katz agrees. “I always use the tried-and-true Amaro Averna,” she says. “This Sicilian amaro has a depth of flavor that adds richness to a Manhattan, making the cocktail super smooth and full-bodied.”

“Like a Negroni calls for Campari, Averna is what the recipe calls for,” says Anthony Schmidt, partner and beverage director at CH Projects (with concepts like Raised By Wolves, False Idol, Polite Provisions) and The Lafayette Hotel in San Diego. “Averna adds depth, complexity, and a touch of sweetness. I occasionally include a small measure of Braulio to add herbaceousness and dry the cocktail a bit.”

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Amaro Meletti

Amaro Meletti

Food & Wine / Ditta Silvio Meletti s.r.l.

“While the traditional amaro for a Black Manhattan is Averna, I really love turning to something like Lucano or Ramazotti, which have a bit more orange notes to them,” says James Grant, director of beverage at Fairmont Royal York in Toronto.

“If I have to pick a favorite, though, it’s Amaro Meletti,” he says. “I think Meletti brings this gorgeous burnt sugar [and] bitter citrus, spice, and vanilla notes. Paired with a drier rye whiskey, it makes a great Black Manhattan.”

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Foro Amaro

Foro Amaro

Food & Wine / Chatham Imports Inc

Marshall Minaya, who oversees the bar program at the glitzy, subterranean Madame George in New York City, enjoys this intensely herbal amaro. Foro Amaro is made in Piedmont, the birthplace of Barolo and Barbaresco wines, and where grapes like Dolcetto and Barbera thrive. 

“It doesn't quite have the same sarsaparilla or root beer notes that Averna has,” says Minaya. “But it does have this brighter, orange aroma that I think pairs well with the cocktail.” 

Instead of the standard cherry garnish, Minaya prefers a bit of orange zest.

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Ramazzotti

Ramazzotti

Food & Wine / Pernod Ricard Italia S.P.A. 

Emre Dasdemir, bar manager at La Collina, an Italian restaurant in Washington D.C., prefers Ramazzotti. The Milan-produced amaro is made with rhubarb, gentian, oranges, and cinchona bark.

“Ramazzotti has a wonderfully mellow character that sets it apart from other amari,” says Dasdemir. “While Averna leans toward a more medicinal bitterness, Ramazzotti greets you with inviting aromas of root beer and citrus. This makes for a smoother, more approachable cocktail that doesn’t hit you over the head with booze.”

In a Black Manhattan, he finds that Ramazzotti brings delightful notes of cola and root beer with a touch of fruity sweetness. 

“For me, it brings back fond memories of my early-adult days, when I’d savor a Jack [Daniels] and Coke, not just for the taste, but because it was the quickest way to enjoy a night out on a budget,” he says. “But what I really love most about Ramazzotti are its underlying spices, like chicory, cinnamon, and gentian, which beautifully enhance the natural flavors of rye. Paired with Angostura and orange bitters, this classic cocktail transforms into something lively and fun. A true celebration in a glass.”

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Amaro Nonino

Amaro Nonino

Food & Wine / NONINO DISTILLATORI

Conrad Gass, director of food and beverage at Shore Hotel in Santa Monica, California, plays around with different amari in a Black Manhattan. But his preference is Amaro Nonino. 

“It brings a touch of caramel sweetness, herbal botanicals, and orange citrus to the drink,” he says. “And its grappa base tends to make it a bit lighter than most amari. I like how it blends with a rye whiskey. It makes a refreshing, tasty cocktail.”

Gass uses 2 ounces of Pendleton whiskey, 1 ounce of Amaro Nonino, and 2 dashes each of Angostura bitters and Regan’s orange bitters. “Garnish with an orange zest,” says Gass.

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Cioco Artichoke Amaro

Cioco Artichoke Amaro

Food & Wine / Fratelli Vergnano

Engracio Clemena, beverage manager of San Francisco’s La Société, uses Cioco Artichoke Amaro in his Black Manhattans when he seeks a richer profile. 

“This is an artichoke aperitivo that tastes richer than Cynar [a popular artichoke amaro], and is a bit more balanced,” he says. 

Also made in Italy’s Piedmont region, this amaro is made following an almost 200-year-old recipe.

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Bigallet China China

Bigallet China China

Food & Wine / Bigallet distillery

Produced since 1875, this French-made aromatic liqueur uses both sweet and bitter orange peels that are macerated in a beet-based alcohol and redistilled with gentian, alongside other local plants, seeds, and spices.

“For Black Manhattans, I like to use Bigallet China China,” says Miranda Densford, beverage director for Barn8 Restaurant & Bourbon Bar in Louisville, Kentucky, and author of Seed to Sip: Foraged Cocktails — A Sustainable Approach. “This amaro brings complexity to the drink, alongside notes of molasses, ginger, black pepper and cardamom.”

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Brucato Chaparral Amaro

Brucato Chaparral Amaro

Food & Wine / Brucato Amaro

Clemena describes this California-made bottling as “very herbaceous. It’s giving sagebrush, cardamom, and spearmint Chartreuse vibes,” he says. 

Brucato Chaparral Amaro is inspired by the shrubs that creep up and down the state’s Pacific coastline. Brucato combines Golden State herbs like yerba santa, bay, and spearmint to make a bright, herbal amaro.

In a Black Manhattan, Clemena prefers this amaro with Widow Jane Applewood Rye, served up. “I love Chartreuse, and combining an amaro that gives those nuances with a delicious whiskey would make for a great Black Manhattan,” he says. 

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Amaro Dell’ Etna

Amaro Dell’ Etna

Food & Wine / Amaro dell'Etna

Ektoras Binikos, co-founder and partner of Sugar Monk in New York City’s Harlem neighborhood and Bitter Monk in Brooklyn, loves this Sicilian amaro in warmer months. 

“It’s less sweet than most amari and much lighter, with great complexity and hints of bitter orange, tart rhubarb, cassia and blood orange,” he says. “With bright acidity and a subtle smoky and mineral finish, it works wonders with a nice classic rye whiskey. It doesn't overpower the overall flavor of the cocktail, and the texture is nice and crisp on the palate.”

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Zucca Rabarbaro Amaro

Zucca Rabarbaro Amaro

Food & Wine / Ettore Zucca

In cooler months, Binikos turns to this Lombardy-made amaro. 

“It makes a super complex and layered Black Manhattan,” he says. “But it's a different animal altogether, with intense notes of smoky rhubarb, chocolate, saffron, white pepper, hints of bitter wormwood, and black cardamom.” 

Binikos recommends using this amaro with a classic rye whiskey. “The resulting cocktail is deep, spicy, robust, and complex,” he says. “It has a heavier texture on the palate, but [it’s] also warming, making it wonderful to sip slowly on a cold night.”

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Sfumato Rabarbaro

Sfumato Rabarbaro

Food & Wine / Antica Erborista Cappelletti

Ben Bozeman, head bartender of Lucky Cheetah in Portland, Maine, says this Italian amaro is his go-to when he orders a Black Manhattan. 

“Sfumato itself has an awesome balance of bright and earthy flavors. The name itself derives from the Italian word for ‘smoke.’ so you definitely get some rich smokiness and almost a woodsy-ness in the flavor profile,” he says. “It's delicate, however, very nuanced and complex. It's not going to overpower your cocktails, or overwhelm your palate [or] make you feel like you're drinking an ashtray.”

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Cynar

Cynar

Food & Wine / Campari Group

Carla Irene, spirits director of Armour House in Birmingham, Alabama, loves this stalwart artichoke amaro. “It adds an extra layer of vegetal flavor in addition to the bitterness of the botanicals,” she says. “I also enjoy that it has a balance between sugar content and bitterness.” 

In a cocktail, Irene finds the amaro adds body and complexity. “It imparts a more velvety texture compared to using a sweet vermouth,” she says.

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