Aukotex

BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF TEXTILES
Course Code: WPE 414

Report on Industrial Attachment
Duration: 15th March 2023 to 18th May 2023
YASIN KNITTEX IND. LTD

Gazipur South Panishail, Zirani Bazar, BKSP
Supervising Teacher
Dr. Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir
Associate Professor,
Department of Wet Process Engineering
Bangladesh University of Textiles.
Submitted by
Name Student ID
Md. Rasel Talukder 2018-1-3-060

Md. Tawhidul Islam 2018-1-3-065
Murshid Alom 2018-1-3-069
Md. Jahidul Islam Rahat 2017-1-3-044
Rahat Mahmud 2015-1-3-028
Date of submission: 22th June 2023
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Bismillahir Rahmanir Raheem. All praise and thanks to Almighty Allah, who gave us
the ability and potential to complete our industrial attachment training. We also express
our thankfulness to Almighty Allah, for making it possible to complete the report on
industrial attachment on time.
Our supervising teacher, Dr. Shekh Md. Mamun Kabir sir deserves special
recognition; without his assistance, we would not have been able to complete the
training successfully.
We have successfully performed the industrial attachment training at AUKO-TEX

GROUP LTD. We are very grateful to Dr. Engr. Md. Zulhash Uddin, Head,
Department of Wet Process Engineering and to Prof. Dr. Ummul khair Fatema, Dean,
Faculty of Textile Chemical Engineering, for giving us the opportunity to accomplish
the attachment.
We would like to thanks AUKO-TEX GROUP LTD. Management, administration

and personnel for their excellent cooperation. We thank our industrial supervisor Md.
Fakrul Ahmed and all the other senior officers and executives for their assistance.
Above all. We would like to express our heartiest gratitude to all of the teachers of
Bangladesh University of Textile, Bangladesh, especially the teachers of the Wet
Process Engineering Department, for providing us their unconditional support and
encouragement.
We also acknowledge Prof. Dr. Shah Alimuzzaman, Vice Chancellor, Bangladesh

University of Textiles for his guidance and leadership.
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EXECUTIVE SUMMERY
Bangladesh is one of the world's leading textile and garment exporters, and dyeing and
finishing are vital parts of the textile production process. The dyeing and finishing
market in Bangladesh hold immense promise and has been experiencing significant
growth in recent years.
We recently had the opportunity to finish two months of industrial training at AUKO-
TEX GROUP LTD. Which is a 100% Export-Oriented Knit Composite Garment, as
part of our academic course. In this internship, we were primarily focused on dyeing
and finishing section. We have got and better overview of the textile industry
throughout the training period including machine, maintenance method, production
planning, marketing, cost management and quality assurance.
In additions, AUKO-TEX GROUP LTD. is renowned in the textile industry for its
manufacturing and exporting expertise. They also offer a comprehensive learning
experience for interns. We had the privilege of working alongside experienced
professionals who will guide and mentor you throughout your internship. Their
expertise and knowledge will enhance our learning and provide valuable insights into
industry best practices.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I
EXECUTIVE SUMMERY II
TABLE OF CONTENTS III
LIST OF FIGURES X
LIST OF TABLES XII
CHAPTER 01: INTRODUCTION 1

1.1 Background of the Internship 1
1.2 Overview of the Organization 2
1.2.1 Company Profile 2
1.2.2 Production Capacity of YASIN KNITTEX Ind. Ltd. 2
1.2.3 Factory Location 3
1.3 Vision & Mission 3
1.3.1 Vision 3
1.3.2 Mission 3
1.3.3 Values 4
1.4 History of Development 4
1.5 Major Buyers of AUKO-TEX Group 5
1.6 Affiliations & Recognitions of AUKO-TEX Group 6
1.7 End Products of AUKO-TEX Group 7
CHAPTER 02: MANPOWER MANAGEMENT 8

2.1 AUKO-TEX Group Organogram 8
2.2 Shift Change System in AUKO-TEX Group 8
2.3 Manpower Administration of AUKO-TEX Group 9
2.4 Job & Responsibilities of a Production Officer 9
CHAPTER 03: MACHINE DESCRIPTION 10
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CHAPTER 04: RAW MATERIALS 11
4.1 Introduction 11
4.2 Raw material for Knitting Section 11
4.2.1 Different Types of Yarn Used in Knitting Section 11
4.2.2 Frequently Used Yarn Types and Their Count 12
4.2.3 Name of The Yarn Suppliers 12
4.2.4 Name of The Yarn Supplier Country 12
4.3 Raw Materials for Dyeing & Finishing Section 13
4.4 Raw Materials for Printing Section 15
4.5 Annual Requirements 15
CHAPTER 05: PRODUCTION PLANNING & SEQUENCES & OPERATIONS

5.1 Knitting section 16
5.1.1 Introduction 16
5.1.2 Layout Plan for Knitting Section 17
5.1.3 Knitting Machine Specification 20
5.1.3.3 Number of Knitting Machine 24
5.1.4 Knitting Parameters 24
5.1.5 Process Flow Chart of Weft Knitting 24
5.1.6 Setup Process of a Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine 26
5.1.7 Important Parts of Circular Knitting Machine 27
5.1.8 Calculation for Knitting Fabrics 29
5.1.9 Production/Shift in Kg at 100% Efficiency 29
5.1.10 Faults of Knitting 30
5.2 Batching section 34

5.2.2 Process Flow Chart of Batch Section 34
5.2.3 Types of Batches 35
5.2.4 Batch Calculation 35
5.2.5 Purpose of Batch Section 36
5.3 Dyeing section 37

5.3.2 Layout Plan for Dyeing Section 38
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5.3.3 Dyeing Machine Specification 38
5.3.4 Type of Dyeing Used in AUKO-TEX 39
5.3.5 Different Parts of Dyeing Machine 40
5.3.5.1 Mechanical Components & Parts 40
5.3.5.2 Electrical Components & Parts 42
5.3.5.3 Sensor and Controller 43
5.3.5.4 Digital Components & Parts 43
5.3.6 Dyeing Chemicals and Function 44
5.3.6.1 Basic Chemicals 44
5.3.6.2 Suitability of Dyes for Different Fibers 45
5.3.7 Dyeing Parameters 46
5.3.7.1 Factors Affecting Dyeing Time 46
5.3.8 Sample Dyeing 47
5.3.8.1 Standard Flowchart for Lab-Dip Process 47
5.3.9 Bulk Dyeing Process 48
5.3.9.1 Both Part Dyeing 48
5.3.9.2 Turquoise Color Dyeing 54
5.3.9.3 Cloud Dancer / RFD 56
5.3.10 Dyeing Faults 58
5.4 Dyeing (lab) section 63

5.4.2 Lab Machine specification (Dyeing) 64
5.4.3 Process Sequence of Lab Dyeing 65
5.5 Finishing section 66

5.5.2 Objective of Finishing 66
5.5.3 Finishing Machine Specification 67
5.5.4 Flow Chart of Finishing for Tube Fabric 68
5.5.5 Flow Chart of Finishing Open Width Fabric 68
5.5.6 Finishing Types 69
5.5.7 Finishing Effect for textiles 69
5.5.8 Finishing machine 70
5.5.8.1 Slitting Machine 70
5.5.8.2 Dryer Machine 72
5.5.8.3 Stenter Machine 74
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5.5.8.4 Compactor Machine 77
5.6 Washing section 79

5.6.2 Objective of Garment Washing 79
5.6.3 Washing Machine Specification 79
5.6.4 Name of Dyeing and Wash Type 80
5.6.5 Washing Production Process Flowchart 82
5.6.6 Washing Faults 82
5.7 Printing section 83

5.7.2 Printing Machine Specification 84
5.7.3 Ingredient 85
5.7.4 Process Flow Chart of Printing Section 86
5.7.5 Flow Chart of Mesh Preparation 87
5.7.6 Flow Chart of Printing Paste Preparation 87
5.7.7 Printing Types 87
5.7.8 Printing Faults 88
5.8 Garment section 91

5.8.2 Sample Section 91
5.8.3 Flowchart of Sample Preparation Process 91
5.9 Cutting section 92

5.9.2 Cutting Machine Specification 92
5.9.3 Flowchart of Cutting Process 93
5.9.4 Cutting Defects in Garments 93
5.10 Sewing section 94

5.10.2 Sewing Machine Specification 94
5.10.3 Flowchart of Sewing Process 95
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5.10.4 Process Sequence of a Basic T-shirt in a Sewing Line 96
5.10.5 Machine Used in a T-Shirt Production 96
5.10.6 Needle Used in Sewing Section 97
5.10.7 Sewing Defects 98
5.11 Embroidery Section 99

5.11.2 Embroidery Machine Specification 99
5.11.3 Flowchart of Embroidery Section 100
5.11.4 Type of Style 100
5.12 Finishing (Garments) section 101

5.12.2 Flowchart of Finishing (Garments) Section 101
5.12.3 List of Trims and Accessories Used in Finishing Section 102
5.12.4 Defects in Trims and Accessories 102
5.13. Research and Development (R&D) Section 103

5.13.2 Objectives of R&D Section 103
5.13.3 Different Sections 103
5.13.4 Flowchart of Knitting R&D 104
5.14 ETP 105

5.14.2 Objectives of ETP 105
5.14.3 Requirement of Discharge Effluent 105
5.14.4 Flowchart of Effluent Treatment Plant Process 106
5.14.5 Chemicals & Their Functions used in ETP 106
5.14.5 Parts of ETP 107
5.15 WTP 110

5.15.2 Standard Water Quality of Dyeing House 110
5.15.3 Different Parts of WTP 110
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5.15.4 Flowchart of Water Treatment Plant Process 111
CHAPTER 06: QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM 112

6.1 Quality Assurance System 112
6.1.2 Objectives of Quality Assurance 112
6.1.3 Stages of Quality Assurance 112
6.2 Machine used for Quality Test Lab 113
6.3 Quality Standards Used at AUKO-TEX 113
6.4 The 4-Point System 114
6.5 General Inspection Procedures 115
CHAPTER 07: MAINTENANCE 116

7.1 Maintenance 116
7.1.2 Objectives of Maintenance 116
7.2 Different Types of Maintenance Used at AUKO-TEX 116
7.3 Maintenance Guideline 117
CHAPTER 08 STORE AND INVENTORY CONTROL 118

8.1 Inventory control 118
8.1.2 Objective 118
8.2 Inventory system 118
8.3 Job & Responsibilities at Store and inventory control 119
CHAPTER 09: COST ANALYSIS 120

9.1 Costing 120
9.2 Factors that influence the final pricing of the product 120
9.3 Costing of a Product includes 120
9.4 Costing of Yarn 121
9.5 Knitting cost 121
9.6 Dyeing Cost 122
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CHAPTER 10: MARKETING ACTIVITIES 123
10.1 Marketing of AUKO-TEX Group 123
10.2 Products Gallery 123
10.3 Marketing Strategy 124
10.4 Duties & Responsibilities of Marketing Officers 124
10.5 Merchandising 125
10.6 Job & Responsibilities of a Merchandiser 126
CHAPTER 11: CONCLUSION 127

References 128
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LIST OF FIGURES
Figure - 1.1: Factory Location of AUKO-TEX Group ........................................................................ 3

Figure - 1.2: Historical Development Of AUKO-TEX Group ............................................................ 4
Figure - 1.3: Affiliations & Recognitions of AUKO-TEX Group ....................................................... 6
Figure - 1.4: Major End Products Produced by AUKO-TEX Group ................................................ 7
Figure - 2.1: Organogram of AUKO-TEX Group ............................................................................... 8
Figure - 5.1: Knitting Production Floor ............................................................................................. 16
Figure - 5.2: Layout Plan for Knitting Section .................................................................................. 19
Figure - 5.3: Creel ................................................................................................................................. 27
Figure - 5.4: Feeder .............................................................................................................................. 27
Figure - 5.5: VDQ Pulley ..................................................................................................................... 27
Figure - 5.6: Needle .............................................................................................................................. 27
Figure - 5.7: Sinker ............................................................................................................................... 27
Figure - 5.8: Yarn Guide ...................................................................................................................... 27
Figure - 5.9: Cam.................................................................................................................................. 28
Figure - 5.10: Lycra Attachment Device ............................................................................................ 28
Figure - 5.11: MRF Wheel ................................................................................................................... 28
Figure - 5.12: Lycra Stop Motion ........................................................................................................ 28
Figure - 5.13: MRF ............................................................................................................................... 28
Figure - 5.14: Feeder Ring ................................................................................................................... 28
Figure - 5.15: Hole/Crack .................................................................................................................... 30
Figure - 5.16: Needle mark .................................................................................................................. 30
Figure - 5.17: Sinker Mark .................................................................................................................. 31
Figure - 5.18: Oil Stain ......................................................................................................................... 32
Figure - 5.19: Pin Hole ......................................................................................................................... 32
Figure - 5.20: Horizontal Stripes ......................................................................................................... 33
Figure - 5.21: Dyeing Machines in AUKO-TEX ................................................................................ 37
Figure - 5.22: Layout of Dyeing Section ............................................................................................. 38
Figure - 5.23: Reel/Winch .................................................................................................................... 40
Figure - 5.24: Heat Exchanger ............................................................................................................ 40
Figure - 5.25: Mixing Tank .................................................................................................................. 41
Figure - 5.26: Mixer.............................................................................................................................. 41
Figure - 5.27: Unload Roller ................................................................................................................ 42
Figure - 5.28: PLC of a Dyeing Machine ............................................................................................ 44
Figure - 5.29: Sample of Both Part Dyeing ........................................................................................ 53
Figure - 5.30: Process Curve for Both Part Dyeing ........................................................................... 53
Figure - 5.31: Sample of Turquoise Color Dyeing ............................................................................. 55
Figure - 5.32: Process Curve for Turquoise Color Dyeing ............................................................... 55
Figure - 5.33: Sample of Cloud Dancer Dyeing ................................................................................. 57
Figure - 5.34: Process Curve of Cloud Dancer Dyeing ...................................................................... 57
Figure - 5.35: Uneven Dyeing .............................................................................................................. 58
Figure - 5.36: Dark Color Spot ............................................................................................................ 59
Figure - 5.37: Patchy dyeing ................................................................................................................ 60
Figure - 5.38: Crease Mark ................................................................................................................. 60
Figure - 5.39: Softener Mark ............................................................................................................... 61
Figure - 5.40: Dye Spot......................................................................................................................... 62
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Figure - 5.41: Machines at Lab Dyeing section .................................................................................. 63
Figure - 5.42: Layout plan of finishing section................................................................................... 66
Figure - 5.43: Slitting Machine ............................................................................................................ 70
Figure - 5.44: Schematic Diagram of Slitting Machine ..................................................................... 71
Figure - 5.45: Schematic Diagram of Dryer Machine ....................................................................... 72
Figure - 5.46: Stenter Machine ............................................................................................................ 74
Figure - 5.47: Schematic Diagram of Stenter Machine ..................................................................... 76
Figure - 5.48: Compactor Machine ..................................................................................................... 77
Figure - 5.49: Schematic Diagram of Compactor Machine (with Chain) ........................................ 78
Figure - 5.50: Printing Section of AUKO-TEX .................................................................................. 83
Figure - 5.51: Blebbiness ...................................................................................................................... 88
Figure - 5.52: Drops ............................................................................................................................. 88
Figure - 5.53: Bleeding ......................................................................................................................... 88
Figure - 5.54: Stain during Steaming .................................................................................................. 89
Figure - 5.55: Stain due to Friction ..................................................................................................... 89
Figure - 5.56: Color Paste Splash ........................................................................................................ 89
Figure - 5.57: Uneven Printing Due to Crease ................................................................................... 90
Figure - 5.58: Double Printing ............................................................................................................. 90
Figure - 5.59: Stain due to Extra Hanging Yarn................................................................................ 90
Figure - 5.60: Cutting Section at AUKO-TEX ................................................................................... 92
Figure – 5.61: Sewing Section at AUKO-TEX ................................................................................... 94
Figure - 5.62: Print Head of Embroidery Machine at AUKO-TEX................................................. 99
Figure - 5.63: ETP Water Discharge Point ...................................................................................... 105
Figure - 5.64: Screen Chamber ......................................................................................................... 107
Figure - 5.65: Homogenization Tank ................................................................................................ 107
Figure - 5.66: Equalization Tank ...................................................................................................... 108
Figure - 5.67: Neutralization Tank ................................................................................................... 108
Figure - 5.68: Biological Tank ........................................................................................................... 109
Figure - 10.1: Product Gallery at AUKO-TEX ................................................................................ 124
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LIST OF TABLES
Table - 1.1: Major Buyers of AUKO-TEX Group.................................................. 5

Table - 2.1: Shift Change System in AUKO-TEX Group ...................................... 8
Table - 2.2: Manpower Management of AUKO-TEX Group ................................ 9
Table - 3.1: No. of machines in different sections ................................................. 10
Table - 4.1: Frequently Used Yarn Types & Counts ............................................ 12
Table - 4.2: Chemicals & Auxiliaries Used in Dyeing Section ............................. 14
Table - 5.1: Specification of Circular Knitting Machines .................................... 22
Table - 5.2: Specification of Flatbed Knitting Machines ...................................... 23
Table - 5.3: Number of Knitting Machine ............................................................ 24
Table - 5.4: Specification of Dyeing Machines ...................................................... 39
Table - 5.5: Specification of other types of Lab Equipment (Dyeing) Machines . 65
Table - 5.6: Specification of Washing Machines ................................................... 80
Table - 5.7: Specification of Octopus Printing Machine ...................................... 84
Table - 5.8: Specification of Sublimation Printing Machine ................................ 84
Table - 5.9: Specification of other types of Printing Machines ............................ 85
Table - 5.10: Specification of other types of Lab Equipment (Printing) Machines
........................................................................................................................ 85
Table - 5.11: Specification of Cutting Machines ................................................... 92
Table - 5.12: Specification of Sewing Machines.................................................... 95
Table - 5.13: Machine Used in a T-Shirt Production ........................................... 97
Table - 5.14: Needle Used in Sewing Section ........................................................ 97
Table - 5.15: Specification of Embroidery Machines ......................................... 100
Table - 5.16: List of Trims and Accessories ........................................................ 102
Table - 5.17: Requirement of Discharge Effluent ............................................... 105
Table - 5.18: Standard Water Quality of Dyeing House .................................... 110
Table - 6.1: Specification of Lab Equipment (Quality Test) Machines ............. 113
Table - 6.2: Grading of Four Point System ......................................................... 114
Table - 9.1: Cost of Yarn ..................................................................................... 121
Table - 9.2: Charge of Knitting ........................................................................... 122
Table - 9.3: Charge of Dyeing ............................................................................. 122
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CHAPTER 01: INTRODUCTION
1.1 Background of the Internship

The process of increasing a student’s understanding, abilities and attitude in order to
boost productivity and service is known as industrial attachment. Although university
education provides us a broad theoretical foundation. Our industrial attachment at
AUKO-TEX Group bridges the gap between theory and practice, equipping us with the
skills and knowledge to excel in the textile industry. We observed and participated in
the entire dyeing workflow, from fabric preparation to final inspection. This exposure
will help us understand the importance of quality control measures, industry standards,
and effective resource utilization. We are also equipped with a comprehensive
understanding of production management, work studies, efficiency, industrial
management, utility, maintenance, store & inventory control and their respective
operating approaches. We also had the chance to explore different printing techniques
used in the textile industry, such as screen printing, digital printing, and sublimation
printing.
AUKO-TEX Group has made significant contributions to both the textile industry and
the country as a 100% Export-Oriented Knit Composite Conglomerate, they have
played a vital role in the growth and development of the textile sector in their country.
The company operates based on the three pillars of sustainability: economic,
environmental, and social sustainability. In terms of economic sustainability, AUKO-
TEX Group has made substantial contributions to the country's export revenue. Since
its commercial production in 2003, the company has exported over US$ 559.78 million,
with US$ 57.4 million exported in 2022 alone and export projected to hit US$ 100.00
million in 2027. AUKO-TEX Group's commitment to environmental sustainability is
reflected in their efforts to minimize the environmental impact of their operations. They
have implemented sustainable practices and technologies, such as advanced Effluent
Treatment Plants (ETP) and Water Treatment Plants (WTP), to ensure responsible
wastewater management and reduce pollution. AUKO-TEX Group's focus on social
sustainability is evident in their dedication to their workforce.
©Bangladesh University of Textiles 1|Page

With 5,120 employees, they provide job opportunities and contribute to the livelihoods
of numerous individuals and their families.
1.2 Overview of the Organization

1.2.1 Company Profile
Organization name : AUKO-TEX LTD.
Year of Establishment : 22 August 2002
Managing Director : Abdus Sobhan (CIP)
Type : 100% Export-Oriented Knit Composite Garment
Corporate Office : House-103, 1st Floor, Northern Road, DOHS Baridhara,

Dhaka-1206, Bangladesh
Factory Address : YASIN KNITTEX Ind. Ltd.
South Panishail, Zirani Bazar BKSP, Gazipur,
Bangladesh
UK Office : EQUI-TEX Sourcing (UK) Ltd.
102, Mile End, Stepney Green, London.
Phone : +88028413580/599/600
Mail : [email protected]
Website : https://www.auko-texgroup.com/
1.2.2 Production Capacity of YASIN KNITTEX Ind. Ltd.

Department Capacity
Knitting 16 tons/day
Dyeing 16 tons/day
Finishing 9 tons/day
Garments 72000 Garments/day
Washing 60,000 pcs/day
Printing 85,000 pcs/day
Embroidery 4200 Units/day

1.2.3 Factory Location
Figure - 1.1: Factory Location of AUKO-TEX Group
1.3 Vision & Mission

1.3.1 Vision
Become the most preferred knit textile and garment manufacturer for global clothing
companies with the philosophy of corporate sustainability.
1.3.2 Mission
To stay ahead of fast paced fashion industry by:
❖ Offering trend-setting knit garments to the global market.

❖ Being innovative, cost-effective and globally competitive.
❖ Ensuring in time delivery with the right quality.
❖ Providing opportunities for growth for all stakeholders and improving people’s
lives.

1.3.3 Values
Fostering Innovation: Research & development is the heart of everything we do.
Innovation is what we always strive for. Trend-setting fashion and cost-effective
products are its outcomes.
Keeping Promises: Everything we produce meets the required quality and agreed lead
time.
Committing Ethical Business: Integrity & honesty are our principles to ensure ethical
business. Being fair to customers, suppliers, employees and also reduce environmental
degradation.
Customer Satisfaction: Innovative and quality products; at a fair price and on-time
delivery through dedicated team efforts; are key to satisfy our customers.
1.4 History of Development
Figure - 1.2: Historical Development Of AUKO-TEX Group

1.5 Major Buyers of AUKO-TEX Group
Brand Origin Brand Origin Brand Origin
Denmark France UK
Italy USA Denmark
Denmark Denmark Denmark
Spain USA Germany
Canada Japan USA
UK Germany Germany
Germany Germany Germany
Germany Denmark USA
Table - 1.1: Major Buyers of AUKO-TEX Group

1.6 Affiliations & Recognitions of AUKO-TEX Group
Figure - 1.3: Affiliations & Recognitions of AUKO-TEX Group

1.7 End Products of AUKO-TEX Group
Figure - 1.4: Major End Products Produced by AUKO-TEX Group

CHAPTER 02: MANPOWER
MANAGEMENT
2.1 AUKO-TEX Group Organogram
Figure - 2.1: Organogram of AUKO-TEX Group
2.2 Shift Change System in AUKO-TEX Group

Shift Duration
General Shift 9.00 am to 6.00 pm
Shift A 6.00 am to 2.00 pm
Shift B 2.00 pm to 10.00 pm
Shift C 10.00 pm to 6.00 am
Table - 2.1: Shift Change System in AUKO-TEX Group

2.3 Manpower Administration of AUKO-TEX Group
Department Manpower
Knitting 175
Dyeing 142
Printing 800
Finishing 1121
Garments 2433
Maintenance 55
Administration 229
Utility 65
Security 100
Table - 2.2: Manpower Management of AUKO-TEX Group
2.4 Job & Responsibilities of a Production Officer

➢ Take early attendance.
➢ Distribute workers and assign tasks accordingly.
➢ Monitor work progress.
➢ Implement production plans effectively.
➢ Ensure safety, hygiene, and cleanliness standards.
➢ Maintain product quality.
➢ Verify workers' capacity and capabilities.
➢ Inspect machinery.
➢ Manage work sheets, approved samples, and swatch cards.
➢ Plan for the next day's attendance.
➢ Check productivity and quality levels.
➢ Ensure a continuous supply of inputs.

CHAPTER 03: MACHINE DESCRIPTION
No. of machines in each section

AUKOTEX Group have different types of machines in different sections. Here, a list
of them is given in Table 3.1
Section Number
Circular Knitting Machine 72
Flat Bed Knitting Machine 12
Dyeing Machines 16
Finishing Machine 10
Washing machine 20
Cutting machine 35
Sewing machine 1279
Printing machine 20
Lab Equipment 23
Dyeing sampling machines 7
Table - 3.1: No. of machines in different sections
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CHAPTER 04: RAW MATERIALS
4.1 Introduction
Different department of AUKO-TEX uses distinct types of raw materials. For example,
the knitting section uses yarn as raw material. Dyeing & printing section uses dyes &
chemicals as raw materials. The garments section utilizes raw materials such as buttons,
labels, and sewing threads in their production processes. The selection of specific raw
materials at AUKO-TEX fulfills the desired needs and requirements of each
department, ensuring optimal functionality and alignment.
4.2 Raw material for Knitting Section

The raw material for knitting is yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range of
different count are used. Both carded and combed yarn is used for knitting.
4.2.1 Different Types of Yarn Used in Knitting Section

 Combed Yarn
 Carded Yarn
 PC Yarn
 CVC Yarn
 Grey Mélange Yarn
 Polyester Yarn
 Viscose Yarn
 Modal Yarn
 Slub Yarn
 Lycra
 Modal Slub Yarn
 Organic Cotton Yarn

4.2.2 Frequently Used Yarn Types and Their Count
Yarn Type Available count
14’s, 20’s, 22’s, 24’s, 26’s, 28’s, 30’s,
Combed Yarn
32’s, 34’s, 36’s, 40’s, 42’s, 44’s
Carded Yarn 12’s, 14’s, 24’s, 26’s, 28’s, 32s, 34’s, 40’
Grey Melange 18’s,20’s,24’s,26’s,30’s,34’s,40’s
PC Yarn 24’s, 26’s, 28’s, 30’s
CVC Yarn 24’s, 26’s, 28’s, 30’s
Lycra Yarn 20 D,30 D,40 D
Modal & Viscose 40’s
Slub Yarn 24’s, 26’s,30’s,36’s
Table - 4.1: Frequently Used Yarn Types & Counts
4.2.3 Name of The Yarn Suppliers

 Divine Group  Mosharaf Group
 Square Group  Sagar Group
 Reedisha Group  Badsha Group
 Mehmud Group  V-TEX
 N. R. Group  Interstoff
 HUAFU  Kamal Group
 Purbani Group
 Thermax Goup
4.2.4 Name of The Yarn Supplier Country

 Bangladesh
 India
 China
 Indonesia
 Pakistan

4.3 Raw Materials for Dyeing & Finishing Section
4.3.1 Grey Fabrics:
 Single Jersey  Interlock
 Single Jersey with Lycra  Interlock with Lycra
 1Χ1 Rib  Polo Pique
 Rib with Lycra  Terry
 Fleece  Lycra Terry
 Single Lacoste
4.3.2 Chemicals & Auxiliaries Used in Dyeing Section
Aid Name Function Chemical Name

Hydrochloric Acid
Sulphuric Acid
Used for pH adjustment,
Basic Chemicals Caustic Soda
cleaning, and pickling.
Soda Ash
Formic Acid
Alkali
Wetting Agent
Detergent and
Works as a cleaning agent. Detergent
Scouring Agent
Sequestering Agent
Solvent
Distribute dyes evenly, E3R -3979
Levelling Agent
prevent uneven coloration. Mat. Level LPF -2267
Increase dye penetration, Glauber Salt
Salt
acts as a reducing agent. Common Salt
SAPAMINE FPG
Improves the softness and
ALEAMINE-CWS
feel of fabrics, reducing
Softener ECIPOLE PR 99
stiffness and enhancing
GRAMAZIN-E2R
comfort.
INDOSOFT PEW/DSP-1845

Aid Name Function Chemical Name
NEOFIXRP70
Ensures the fixation of dyes
NEOFIX-R-250
Fixing Agent on textiles & enhance color
ALBAFIX ECO
fastness properties.
OPTIFIX EC-N-5787
Hydrose
Caustic Soda
Visco Color
ViscoBleach
Reducing Agent Chemical for reduction.
Bleaching Agent:
H2O2
Enzyme- Retrocell PLX,
BIO-C35
TEXPORT GL 500
Anti-creasing
Prevents creasing. TEXPORT D-600
Agent
ROCOFLOID C-0224
KT 30-1027
Removes hydrogen peroxide
Per-oxide Killer ANTIFOAMING AGENT
residue.
ALBATEX FFC
Table - 4.2: Chemicals & Auxiliaries Used in Dyeing Section
4.3.3 Types of Dyes

Dye Brands Used by AUKO-TEX Group:
Brand Dye Class
SUMIFIX Reactive Dyes
CIBA Reactive Dyes
BODUCTIVE Reactive Dyes
LIVAFIX Reactive Dyes
TERAFIX Reactive Dyes
Table - 4.3: Types of Dyes Used in AUKO-TEX

4.4 Raw Materials for Printing Section
Printing section uses finished fabric or finished garment are as raw material and some
printing ingredient given below:
 Urea
 Na2CO3
 Resist Salt
 Thickener
 Binder
 Fixer
4.5 Annual Requirements

The annual requirement of raw materials for the knitting, dyeing, finishing, and printing
sections at the factory depends on the production orders. However, factors such as
improper weighting, operator carelessness, hydrolysis of dyes, incorrect recipe
formulation, storage and inventory issues can increase the demand for dyes and
chemicals. The factory management prioritizes the purchase of high-quality raw
materials to ensure excellent product quality, and there is a vast space available in the
factory for storing these raw materials.

CHAPTER 05: PRODUCTION PLANNING &
SEQUENCES & OPERATIONS
5.1 Knitting section
5.1.1 Introduction
The production of a diverse range of knit fabrics by the knitting section of AUKO-TEX
ltd. Has enabled the company to meet its entire export demand. AUKO-TEX ltd. Has
equipped its knitting section with state-of-the-art knitting machines sourced from
reputable European brands like SHEI-DIM, FUKUHARA, and PAILUNG, ensuring
the delivery of high-quality and reliable products. By utilizing various blends, including
cotton, polyester, cotton-poly, modal, viscose and poly viscose, the knitting section
manufactures single and double jersey, ribs, interlock, engineered stripe, terry brush
back fleece, and sweat fabrics. The knitting section's monthly production capacity of
approximately 18 tons has played a crucial role in meeting the company's knit fabric
requirements.
Flat Knit Machine
Greige Inspection Machine Circular Knitting Machine
Figure - 5.1: Knitting Production Floor

5.1.2 Layout Plan for Knitting Section

Figure - 5.2: Layout Plan for Knitting Section

5.1.3 Knitting Machine Specification
5.1.3.1 Circular Knitting Machine Specification
Different types of circular knitting machines are used in AUKO-TEX, as indicated in
Table 5.1
SL. Machine Manufacturer Origin Dia Gauge No. of No. of

No. Type (inch) Feeder Needle
1. S/J FUKAHAMA Taiwan 36 24 108 2714
7. RIB FUKAHAMA Taiwan 30 18 90 1809
8. INTERLOCK FUKAHAMA Taiwan 36 24 108 2714
9. S/J PAI LUNG Taiwan 32 24 96 2412

23. S/J SHIE-DIM Taiwan 30 28 90 2639
36. S/J-OP SHIE-DIM Taiwan 28 28 84 2463
40. FLEECE SHIE-DIM Taiwan 30 20 102 2136
48. RIB SHIE-DIM Taiwan 34 18 102 1922

Table - 5.1: Specification of Circular Knitting Machines

5.1.3.2 Flatbed Knitting Machine specification
There are different types of flatbed knitting machines are used in AUKOTEX, as
indicated in Table 5.2
SL. No. Brand Origin Width Gauge No. of Needle Capacity
01. Matsuya China 68” 14 1900 1800pcs/day
Table - 5.2: Specification of Flatbed Knitting Machines

5.1.3.3 Number of Knitting Machine
Types of Machine Brand Origin Qty Capacity/MC Capacity
26”-42” Circular Shie Dim Taiwan 38 350 kg/day 13300

kg/day
30”-36” Circular Pai-Lung Taiwan 08 350 kg/day 2800 kg/day
19”-36” Circular Fukuhama Taiwan 28 300 kg/day 8400 kg/day
40” width Flat Knit Matsuya Japan 03 600 pcs/day 1800 pcs/day
68” width Semi Matsuya Japan 12 1000 pcs/day 12000

Jacquared Flat Knit pcs/day
Fabric Reversing M/c Panglong China 2 8000 kg/day 16000kg/dsy
Table - 5.3: Number of Knitting Machine
5.1.4 Knitting Parameters

The parameters for knitting include:
 Fabric weight (G.S.M.)
 Yarn thickness (Yarn count)
 Length of stitches
 Width of the fabric
 Thickness of the fabric
5.1.5 Process Flow Chart of Weft Knitting

Knitting is two types: Warp Knitting and Weft Knitting. Weft knitting, which is more
diverse, widely spread, and larger, accounts for approximately one-quarter of the total
yardage of apparel fabric. In weft knitting, the yarns fed into the machine form loops
across the width of the fabric.

Collect approved Sample and sample parameter
Analyze the work order, m/c and yarn selection
Source the yarn as per requirement
Machine cam design as per requirement
Collect yarn from store
Cone setting the creel
Yarn feeding the tensioned guide and positive feeder
Check the stitch length and GSM
Inspection the fabric after making approximately ½
If fabric is OK then continuously run, else find out the problem and solve it
Cut the fabric roll and marking stitch length, GSM, Count etc
Send the fabric to the inspection section and inspect it
Grade the fabric according to the points
Send to the grey store
Fabric delivery according to the dyeing batch card from grey store

5.1.6 Setup Process of a Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machine
The setup process of a single jersey circular knitting machine involves several steps.
This machine, known as the plain circular latch needle machine, uses a single set of
latch needles. The cylinder and sinker ring revolve through a stationary knitting cam
system, and yarn feeders are positioned at regular intervals around the cylinder's
circumference. Yarn is supplied from the cones, and the sinker cam system is mounted
outside on the needle circle, while the center of the cylinder remains open and
perforated.
Place the guide bar on the top area of the machine.
Add sinkers into the cylinder.
Attach the sinker box.
Insert the cylinder needles into the cylinder.
Install the needle boxes.
Put the cam boxes on the cylinder.
Connect all the necessary oil connections.
Set the VDQ Pulley to the desired stitch length

5.1.7 Important Parts of Circular Knitting Machine
Here is a list of knitting machine components:
Creel: Hold the yarn packages Feeder: Feed the yarn to machine
Figure - 5.3: Creel Figure - 5.4: Feeder
VDQ Pulley: control the tension and Needle: Interlocks yarn loops to create
movement of the yarn the fabric structure.
Figure - 5.5: VDQ Pulley Figure - 5.6: Needle
Sinker: holds and helps in forming the Yarn Guide: Guide and control the
path of the yarn
loops of the knitted fabric
Figure - 5.7: Sinker Figure - 5.8: Yarn Guide

Cam: Convert the rotary machine drive Lycra Attachment Device: Used for
into a suitable reciprocating action for attaching lycra or elastic yarns to the
needle fabric
Figure - 5.9: Cam Figure - 5.10: Lycra Attachment Device
MPF Wheel: Controls the movement Lycra Stop Motion: Prevent any
and positioning of the MPF irregularities, ensure proper feeding and
(Multifilament Polyester) yarn tensioning of the lycra yarn
Figure - 5.11: MRF Wheel Figure - 5.12: Lycra Stop Motion
MPF: Holds MPF (Multifilament Feeder Ring: Guides and controls the
Polyester) yarn yarn feeding process
Figure - 5.13: MRF Figure - 5.14: Feeder Ring

5.1.8 Calculation for Knitting Fabrics
To calculate the production of fabric, specific information is needed for production
calculation. The following information is required in the calculation:
❖ Machine gauge (G): the number of needles per inch on the knitting machine.
❖ Machine diameter (D): the diameter of the machine cylinder or dial, usually
measured in inches.
❖ RPM of machine: the rotational speed of the knitting machine, measured in
revolutions per minute.
❖ Yarn count: the linear density of the yarn used, typically expressed as the
number of hanks per unit weight.
❖ Stitch length: the length of each stitch formed during the knitting process,
measured in inches.
5.1.9 Production/Shift in Kg at 100% Efficiency

For Single Jersey
No of needles (πDG) × No of feeder × Stitch length × 1.09 × RPM × 60 × 8

1000 × 840 × count × 2.2046
For Double Jersey
No of needles (πDG) × No of feeder × Stitch length × 1.09 × RPM × 60 × 8

2×
1000 × 840 × count × 2.2046

5.1.10 Faults of Knitting
Knitting faults are inspected in the AUKO-TEX knitting section. Commonly seen
faults are:
Hole/Crack:
Figure - 5.15: Hole/Crack

Causes:
 Holes in the fabric happen when the yarn breaks or has cracks.
 The yarn breaks at the needle hook during loop formation.
 Incorrect yarn count, structure, gauge, course, and density cause holes.
 Yarn feeders set incorrectly can also result in holes.
Remedies:
 Ensure that the yarn strength is sufficient and uniform

 Use the appropriate yarn count for the fabric.
 Set the yarn feeder correctly.
 Properly tie knots to prevent yarn breakage.
Needle Mark:
Figure - 5.16: Needle Mark

Causes:
 A needle mark appears on the fabric when a needle breaks or

 when the needle head bends.
Remedies:
 Straighten the needle and ensure it is free from any broken latch.
 Remove accumulated fibers from the needle tricks.
 Verify the needle filling sequence in the cylinder/dial grooves.
Sinker Mark:
Figure - 5.17: Sinker Mark
Causes:
 Sinker marks occur when sinkers corrode or

 when the sinker head bends.
Remedies:
 Replace the sinker with a new one.

 Ensure that the yarn has sufficient strength to uniform.
 Set the yarn feeder correctly to maintain proper tension and feeding.
 Ensure that knots are properly tied to prevent yarn breakage.

Oil Stain:
Figure - 5.18: Oil Stain

Causes:
 Oil stains on the fabric happen when oil leaks through the needle trick
during knitting.
Remedies:
 Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.

 Regularly maintain and oil the machine properly to minimize the risk of oil
stains on the fabrics.
Pin Hole:
Figure - 5.19: Pin Hole
 Pinholes form in the fabric due to latch breakage or bending.

Barre/Horizontal Stripes:
Figure - 5.20: Horizontal Stripes
 Barre or horizontal stripes appear as light or dark course-wise

 This happens when there are variations in fiber content, luster, dye affinity, and
spinning processes.
Rust Stain:
Causes:
 Rust on machine parts causes rust stains on the fabric.
Remedies:
 Regularly inspect and clean machine parts to prevent rust formation.
Hairiness:
Causes:
 Protruding fiber with yarn at the time of knitting.

 Dust with yarn
Remedies:
 Inspect the yarn for protruding fibers before knitting & remove any loose
fibers.

5.2 Batching Section
5.2.1 Introduction
Batching is both the receiving and sending section of gray fabric in the dyeing process.
It involves preparing the fabrics that are to be dyed and processed for a specific lot of a
particular order. In batching, the gray fabric is received and sent to the dyeing section
for the dyeing process to take place.
5.2.2 Process Flow Chart of Batch Section
Receive the batch card from the grey in charge.
Prioritize the batches according to the dyeing plan.
Select a specific batch card and read it for understanding.
Check the availability of fabrics required for the batch.
Retrieve the necessary quantity of fabrics from the warehouse.
Arrange the fabrics into equal-length ropes as per the required size.
Distribute the collar and cuff in each length of fabric.
Stitch the fabric together.
Write down the weight against the roll number on the back side of the batch.
Calculate and record the total weight of the batch.
Sign and date the batch card.
Fill up the production report form with relevant details.

5.2.3 Types of Batches
There are two types of batches in fabric processing:
1. Solid Batch or Non-Assort Batch: in this type of batch, the fabrics have the
same diameter.
2. Assort batch: in an assort batch, the fabrics have various diameters.
The batching system in AUKO-TEX is a non-assorts batching system.
❖ The storage capacity is 14 tons.

❖ The maximum amount of fabric per machine is 250 kg.
❖ Each fabric rolls weighs between 20-25 kg.
Batches are prepared three days in advance for the selected lots that will be sent to the
dyeing floor.
5.2.4 Batch Calculation

For example, let's consider an order that consists of 5000 units of body fabric, 2000
units of rib fabric, and 1000 units of single jersey fabric. The machine capacity for
production is set at 1000 kg.
To determine the batch ratio for each fabric type, we use the formula:
Batch ratio = × 𝐷𝑖𝑎 𝑞𝑢𝑎𝑛𝑡𝑖𝑦
So, Batch Ratio = × 5000 = 625 kg for body
= × 2000 = 250 kg for rib
= × 1000 = 125 kg for S/J

5.2.5 Purpose of Batching Section
 To receive grey fabric rolls from the knitting section or other sources.
 To turn the tubular fabric inside out to protect the face side during dyeing.
 To prepare the fabric batch for dyeing based on criteria such as
➢ order sheet,
➢ dyeing shade,
➢ available machines,
➢ fabric type
➢ emergency requirements.
 To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with a batch card
➢ white for bulk production
➢ yellow for R&D
➢ green for sample production).
 To maintain records of previous dyeing processes.
 To use a turning machine to ensure the fabric is properly turned inside out.

5.3 Dyeing section
5.3.1 Introduction
The dyeing process involves transforming grey fabric into dyed fabric using various
types of dyes and chemicals. The capacity for dyeing is 15 tons per day. Different types
of grey fabrics, including single jersey, single jersey with Lycra, Polo Pique, Single
Lacoste, Fleece, Interlock, 2x1 Rib, Rib with Lycra, and 1x1 Rib, are dyed.
Basic chemicals such as leveling agents, whitening agents, softeners, fixing agents,
stabilizers, and anti-creasing agents are used. Detergents, scouring agents, alkalis,
wetting agents, sequestering agents, and solvents are also employed. Salt, including
Glauber salt and common salt, is used, as well as reducing agents like hydrose and
caustic soda, and bleaching agents like H2O2. Temperature and time control are
essential factors in the dyeing process, ensuring effective coloration and bonding
between dye and fiber molecules.
Name: Low Liquor Dyeing Machine

Brand: MCS
Origin: Italy
Name: High Pressure Dyeing Machine Name: Sample Dyeing Machine

Brand: Son-tech Brand: Son-tech
Origin: Hongkong Origin: Hongkong
Figure - 5.21: Dyeing Machines in AUKO-TEX

5.3.2 Layout Plan for Dyeing Section
Figure - 5.22: Layout of Dyeing Section
5.3.3 Dyeing Machine Specification

Different types of dyeing machines are used in AUKO-TEX, as indicated in Table 5.4
No. Type Brand Origin Capacity Gasket Nozzle

(Kg)
01. Sample Machine -1 Son-tech Hongkong 60 1 1
02 Sample Machine -2 Son-tech Hongkong 30 1 1
03. Sample Machine -3 CANLAR Turkey 10 1 1

No. Type Brand Origin Capacity Gasket Nozzle
(Kg)
07. Sample Machine -7 CANLAR Turkey 15 1 1
08. Dyeing machine -1 Son-tech Hongkong 750 3 6
15. Dyeing machine -8 Dynamic Italy 1000 4 4
16. Dyeing machine -9 MCS Italy 1000 4 4
Table - 5.4: Specification of Dyeing Machines
5.3.4 Type of Dyeing Used in AUKO-TEX

 Reactive Dyeing
 Pigment Dyeing
 Cool Dyeing
 Direct Dyeing
 Deep Dyeing
 Sulphur Dyeing
 Garments Tie Dye
 Towel Dyeing

5.3.5 Different Parts of Dyeing Machine
5.3.5.1 Mechanical Components & Parts
I. Reel/Winch: It connects to the reel motor and controls the fabric passing speed,
allowing for cycle time adjustment. The reel speed is limited and directly relates to the
machine's loading capacity. The reel's metal bar is coated with silicone rubber, capable
of withstanding high temperatures and a wide pH range. The winch ensures positive
fabric delivery.
Figure - 5.23: Reel/Winch
II. Heat Exchanger: Heat exchanger is most common part of dyeing machine. It
utilizes steam to heat the liquor by allowing it to come into contact with the inner tube.
The heat exchanger also has the capability to cool the liquor by circulating freshwater
through the inner tube.
Figure - 5.24: Heat Exchanger

III. Plaiter: The plaiter is a device that facilitates the formation of plated fabric
arrangements inside the machine. Some machines allow for adjustable plaiting length,
while others have a fixed plating distance.
IV. Mixing Tank: The mixing tank is a container used to blend different components
together. It accommodates large quantities of raw materials, which are mixed to create
a homogeneous mixture used in the production of various materials.
Figure - 5.25: Mixing Tank
V. Mixer: An agitator stays inside in the mixer to mix the ingredients thoroughly.
Figure - 5.26: Mixer

VI. Unload Roller: It helps to unload the fabric from the dyeing machine.
Figure - 5.27: Unload Roller
VII. Valves: Pneumatic valves are used, and a significant number of valves are present
at different flow points. Valve technology is an important aspect of modernizing liquor
flow.
VIII. Gears, Shaft and Bearing: Gears, Shafts, and Bearings are essential components
of the machine's moving mechanism. They ensure smooth operation and proper
alignment.
5.3.5.2 Electrical Components & Parts

I. Pump: A dyeing machine contains several pumps, including ones at the drain area
and the dozing tank. The function of the pump is to lift water into the dyeing machine.
II. Motor: Motors provide the driving force for various parts of the dyeing machine. A
dyeing machine typically includes the following motors:
1. Main Pump Motors

2. Main Reel/Winch Motor
3. Plaiter Motor
4. Unload Reel Motor
5. Pump Motor
6. Mixer Motor

III. Electrical Panel: All electrical connections of the machine are transferred through
the electrical panel. This panel board contains components such as inverters, converters,
PLC (Programmable Logic Controller), pressure regulators, switches, fuses, etc. To
regulate the temperature of the panel board, exhaust fans are installed, which need to
be cleaned on a weekly basis.
5.3.5.3 Sensor and Controller

I. level Sensor: Several level sensors are connected to the machine. These sensors are
used to measure the total liquor level. The control of the machine relies on the readings
from this sensor.
II. Magnetic Sensor: In a dyeing machine, each rope is connected with a magnet. As
the machine rotates, the magnetic field generated by the magnets can be detected by a
magnetic sensor. This allows the machine to calculate the actual rotation speed and
cycle time, which are crucial for maintaining proper operation. One magnetic sensor is
typically present in this part of the machine.
III. Flow Meter: Most modern machines are equipped with at least one flow meter.
This flow meter accurately measures the quantity of water inside the machine,
providing crucial information for the dyeing process.
5.3.5.4 Digital Components & Parts

PLC: The PLC (Programmable Logic Controller) serves as the "brain" of an automatic
dyeing machine. It is a computer system that runs the specific operating program for
the machine, such as the Sedo Master program in this case. The PLC is responsible for
controlling all the functions of the machine, including opening and closing
mechanisms, heating and cooling processes, and filling and draining operations. The
PLC transmits signals to an inverter, which converts them into analog tasks. These tasks
involve controlling the opening and closing of pressure valves for compressed air. By
manipulating the compressed air, the PLC can operate various valves for steam,
cooling, filling, and draining, enabling specific tasks to be carried out.

Figure - 5.28: PLC of a Dyeing Machine
5.3.6 Dyeing Chemicals and Function

5.3.6.1 Basic Chemicals
1. Leveling Agent: Leveling agents ensure an even distribution of dye molecules on
the fabric, preventing uneven coloration.
2. Wetting Agent: Wetting agents, also known as surfactants, reduce the surface
tension of water, allowing it to spread and penetrate the fabric more easily.
3. Sequestering Agent: Sequestering agents are used to bind metal ions present in
water, such as calcium and magnesium, and prevent them from interfering with the
cleaning process.
4. Whitening Agent: Whitening agents enhance the brightness and whiteness of the
fabric. They work by absorbing ultraviolet light and re-emitting it as visible light.
5. Softener: Softeners are chemicals that impart a soft and smooth feel to the fabric.
6. Fixing Agent: Fixing agents are used to help the dye molecules to bond firmly with
the fabric fibers, preventing color bleeding or fading during subsequent washing or
rubbing.
7. Detergent: a combination of surfactants and other cleaning agents to effectively
remove oils, grease, dirt, and other impurities from the fabric.
8. Stabilizer: Stabilizers are chemicals that help to stabilize the dyeing process. They
can enhance color fastness, improve the efficiency of dye uptake.

9. Anti-Creasing Agent: Anti-creasing agents minimize the formation of wrinkles
and creases on the fabric during the dyeing process. They provide lubrication and
reduce friction between the fabric fibers.
10. Alkali: Alkalis such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or soda ash (sodium carbonate)
are used to remove impurities, oils, and waxes from the fabric.
11. Solvent: organic solvents or chlorinated hydrocarbons, are used to remove stubborn
stains or contaminants that are not easily removed by water-based detergents.
12. Salt: Glauber salt and common salt are used to promote dye absorption and fixation
on the fabric.
13. Reducing Agent: Hydrose and caustic soda are reducing agents used to enhance
color fastness and improve dye penetration.
14. Bleaching Agent: Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is a commonly used bleaching agent
to remove unwanted color or stains from the fabric before dyeing.
5.3.6.2 Suitability of Dyes for Different Fibers

SL. No. Name of Dyes Suitable for (Fibers)
1 Acid Dye Wool, Silk, Nylon
2 Basic Dye Nylon, Acrylic, Silk, Wool, Jute
3 Direct Dye Cotton, Viscose, Linen, Nylon
4 Azoic Dye Cotton, Viscose, Linen
5 Vat Dye Cotton, Viscose, Linen
6 Sulfur Dye Cotton, Viscose, Linen
7 Reactive Dye Cotton, Viscose, Linen, Wool, Silk
8 Disperse Dye Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Rayon

5.3.7 Dyeing Parameters
pH:
❖ During H2O2 Bleaching: Ph 9.2-12

❖ During Reactive Dyeing: Ph 10.5-12.5
❖ During Disperse Dyeing: Ph 4.5-6
Temperature:
❖ For Cotton Scouring: 98°C

❖ For Cotton Cold Wash: 30-40°C
❖ For Cotton Acid Wash: 60°C
❖ For Cotton Dyeing: 80°C
❖ For Polyester: 130°C
Time:
❖ For Scouring: 40-60 Minutes

❖ For Disperse Dyeing: 50-60 Minutes
❖ For Cotton Dyeing: 120-130 Minutes
M/L Ratio (Material to Liquor Ratio):
❖ For Pretreatment: 1:8

❖ For Reactive Dyeing: 1:6
❖ For Sample Dyeing: 1:10
5.3.7.1 Factors Affecting Dyeing Time

 Fabric Consumption
 Shed or Color
 Dyeing process

5.3.8 Sample Dyeing
Sample dyeing is done before going to bulk production in dyeing mill. To achieve the
desired shade of fabric in the dyeing process, sample dyeing is essential instead of going
for a bulk production.
5.3.8.1 Standard Flowchart for Lab-Dip Process

A swatch of dyed fabric or yarns prepared for color approval is referred to as a lab dip.
The process of matching the buyer's supplied swatch or specimen with varying dyes
percentage in the laboratory, with or without the help of a spectrophotometer, is known
as lab dip preparation.
Sample Received
Standard is checked with the Reference from the inventory
If matched then sample prepared from that recipe
If not matched than the color percentage is calculated by using Data Color
Recipe Prepared
The sample prepared according to recipe
Standard (From Buyer) and Sample prepared is Compared
If Okay then the sample is sent to Buyer
Buyer approves the sample and order for the bulk production.

5.3.9 Bulk Dyeing Process
The bulk dyeing process at AUKO-TEX involves the following steps:
Fabric Recieved From Knitting Section
Batching
Fabric Loading
Pretreatment
Scouring And Bleaching
Dyeing
After Treatment
Sample Check
If Ok, Washing
Unload
5.3.9.1 Both Part Dyeing

Both part dyeing of blended fabric involves the dyeing process of textiles that are made
from a blend of different fibers, such as cotton-polyester, wool-silk, or any other
combination. Dyeing sequence of cotton-polyester fabric basically is the combination
of polyester and cotton dyeing process. That’s why it is also called double part dyeing
where polyester part is dyed first then cotton part is dyed.
Polyester fiber or fabric could be colored using a dye called disperse dye. This dye was
applied at a high temperature, around 130-140˚C. Disperse dyes had a cone-like
structure and could not dissolve in water. To make them work, a dispersing agent was
used to spread the dyes in the dye bath. For medium and deep shades, a process called
reduction clearing was done to improve the wash fastness of the colors. This high-
temperature dyeing process was considered safe and clean. At such high temperatures,
around 130 ˚c, acids became weaker. To maintain a pH of 4.5, a solution made from
butter, which was strongly acidic, was used along with the dispersing agent in the
polyester dyeing process.

Standard Recipe:
Recipe for Scouring and Bleaching:

Chemicals Amount
Detergent 0.3 gm/l
Antifoaming agent 0.1 gm/l
Anti-creasing agent 0.3 gm/l
Stabilizer 0.5 gm/l
Caustic soda 4.0 gm/l
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) 2.5 gm/l
M: L 1:8
Recipe for Hot Wash:

Chemicals Amount
Peroxide killer 0.8 gm/l
M: L 1:8
Recipe for Neutralization:

Chemicals Amount
Acetic acid 0.5 gm/l
M: L 1:8
Recipe for Cotton Dyeing:

Chemicals Amount
Sequestering agent 0.2 gm/l
Wetting agent 0.2 gm/l
Anti-creasing agent 0.2 gm/l
Leveling agent 0.2 gm/l
Gluber’s salt Depends on shade percentage
Acetic acid As required for pH 6-6.5
Soda ash Depends on shade percentage

M: L 1:8
Recipe for Enzyme Treatment:

Chemicals Amount
Enzyme 0.3 gm/l
Buffer solution 0.1 gm/l
Acetic acid As required for pH 4.5-5
M: L 1:8
Recipe for Polyester Dyeing

Chemicals Amount
Dispersing agent 0.8 gm/l
Sequestering agent 0.2 gm/l
Wetting agent 0.2 gm/l
M: L 1:8
Recipe for Soaping

Chemicals Amount
Detergent 1 gm/l
Acetic acid 1 gm/l
M: L 1:8
Recipe for Softening

Chemicals Amount
Softener 1 gm/l
Acetic acid 1 gm/l
M: L 1:8

Process Flow Chart for S/J lycra (60% cotton+40% polyester) for Polyester Part
Fabric load
Demineralization (Liqonr1:8) at 50°C
Caustic added - Dosing time of 10 minutes at 50°C
Temperature raised to 70°C
H2O2 (500%) added - Dosing time of 10 minutes at 70°C
Temperature raised to 98°C
Dye bath cooled to 80°C
Sample check
Drain wash
Hot rinsing
Acid added for pH control at 4.5
Enzyme wash
Temperature raised to 80°C for 10 minutes, then draining
Butter solution added at 60°C for 10 minutes, with pH check at 4.5
Dispersing/leveling agent with sequestering added at 60°C for 10 minutes
Temperature raised to 80°C for 10 minutes
Temperature raised to 130°C gradually at 20°C per minute for 40 minutes
Temperature drops to 80°C gradually at 20°C per C, with a check
Drain in for 30 minutes
Normal wash with water only at 80°C for 10 minutes
Unload the fabric

Process Flow Chart for S/J lycra (60% cotton+40% polyester) for Cotton Part
Fabric Loading
Demineralization- Dosing Time of 20 Minutesat Temperature 80 °C
Temperature Raised to 50°C For 20 Minutes
Draining for 10 Minutes
Detergent & Wetting Agent added- Dosing Time of 20 Minutes at 50°C
Temperature Raised to 70°C
H2O2 (50%) Added at 70°C
Temperature Raised to 98°C For 60 Minutes
Machine Cooled (Temperature Drop to 80°C)
Brightening Agent Added- Dosing Time of 20 Minutes at 80°C
Sample Check
Drain Wash
Normal Hot Wash
Ph Control at 4.5 (Acetic Acid Leveling Agent)
Enzyme Wash at 50°C For 60 Minutes
Enzyme Killing for 10 Minutes
After Treatment with Acid, Leveling Agent, And Softener
Unloading of Fabric

Sample:
Figure - 5.29: Sample of Both Part Dyeing
Process Curve for Both Part Dyeing:
Figure - 5.30: Process Curve for Both Part Dyeing

5.3.9.2 Turquoise Color Dyeing
Turquoise, a shade of greenish-blue, is a popular color. Dyeing fabrics in turquoise
presents challenges due to the dye's limited washing fastness. The dyeing process for
turquoise differs slightly from other dyeing procedures, as depicted in the provided
Flow Chart for Turquoise Dyeing.
Process Flowchart for Turquoise Color:
Check pH and adjust to 6, ensure hardness is below 40 pp
ADM (levelling agent) injection for a run time of 10 minutes
Coloring with ½ DBC (levelling agent) dosing for 50 minutes
DBC ½ injection, run time of 20 minutes
½ salt dosing for 10 minutes
Migration at 80-90°C (temperature)
Run time of 95°C for 20 minutes, soda dosing for 60 minutes at 80°C
BD wash for 30 minutes
Normal hot wash at 70°C for 10 minute

Sample:
Figure - 5.31: Sample of Turquoise Color Dyeing
Process Curve for Turquoise Color Dyeing
Figure - 5.32: Process Curve for Turquoise Color Dyeing

5.3.9.3 Cloud Dancer / RFD
Cloud dancer dyeing is a specialized dyeing method used for cotton-like fancy yarn. It
is a technique that aims to enhance the three-dimensional effect of the yarn, giving it a
visual appearance reminiscent of clouds in the sky. This unique dyeing process involves
multiple steps, such as detecting the yarn blanks, preparing dye liquor, performing
primary and final dyeing, and ensuring quality control.
Process Flowchart for Cloud Dancer:
Fabric loading
Multi-scouring chemical dosing 60°C for a run time of 10 minutes
Steam up 110°C for a run time of 10 minutes
Run time of 110°C for 30 minutes
Cooling 75°C for a run time of 15 minutes
Sample check
Acid enzyme wash + Check pH and adjust to 4.5
Run time of 90°C for 20 minutes
Hot wash 80°C for 10 minutes
BD wash for 30 minutes
Normal hot wash at 70°C for 10 minute

Sample:
Figure - 5.33: Sample of Cloud Dancer Dyeing
Process Curve for Cloud Dancer Dyeing
Figure - 5.34: Process Curve for Cloud Dancer Dyeing

5.3.10 Dyeing Faults
Uneven Dyeing:
Figure - 5.35: Uneven Dyeing

Causes:
 Uneven pretreatment.
 Improper addition of color.
 Improper addition of chemicals.
 Using dyes with high fixation properties.
 Insufficient control of the dyeing machine.
 Insufficient circulation times.
Remedies:
 Ensure even pretreatment.

 Properly add color and chemicals.
 Adjust circulation time.
 Control the dyeing machine properly.
Batch to Batch Shade Variation:
Causes:
 Use of improper dyes and chemicals.

 Incorrect pretreatment procedure.
 Variation in fabric weight between batches.
 Variation in chemicals and dyes between batches (lot variation).
 Improper dosing of dyes and chemicals.

Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals.

 Correct the pretreatment procedure.
 Maintain consistent fabric weight between batches.
 Avoid mixing dyes and chemicals from different lots.
 Adjust dosing time of dyes and chemicals.
 Follow different dyeing parameters.
Dark Color Spot:
Figure - 5.36: Dark Color Spot
Causes:
 Dyestuff precipitation during dyeing.

 Incompatibility of dyestuffs used for producing combined shades.
 Excessive dyestuff concentration in the dye bath.
 Precipitation of unabsorbed dyestuff during after-treatment.
Remedies:
 Ensure proper dyeing conditions.

 Select appropriate dyestuffs.
 Ensure proper after-treatment.
 Check the solubility limit of the dyestuff before dyeing.

Patchy Dyeing:
Figure - 5.37: Patchy dyeing

Causes:
 Hardness of water.
 Faulty color addition.
 Incorrect injection of alkali.
 Improper salt addition.
 Improper pH solution.
Remedies:
 Use a proper sequestering agent.

 Correct color addition.
 Adjust salt addition.
 Properly inject alkali.
 Maintain the pH level of the solution.
Crease Mark:
Figure - 5.38: Crease Mark

Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope.

 High machine running speed.
 Unequal pump pressure and reel speed.
Remedies:
 Maintain proper pump pressure and reel speed.

 Control the machine speed.
 Ensure proper opening of the fabric rope.
Roll to Roll Variation:
Causes:
 Poor migration property of dye.

 Hardness of water.
 Improper dye solubility.
 Faulty machine speed.
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals.

 Maintain proper machine speed.
Softener Marks:
Figure - 5.39: Softener Mark

Causes:
 Softener not properly dissolved in water
Remedies:
 Through scouring of the grey fabric

 Uniform softener dissolving
 Choosing correct softener as per the fabric
5.3.6.8 Dye Spot
Figure - 5.40: Dye Spot
Causes:
 Incorrect mixing and dissolving of dyestuff.

 Dye bath hardness.
 Insufficient agitation of dyestuff.
Remedies:
 Strain the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless-steel mesh strainer.

 Use an adequate amount of sequestrant to lower bath hardness.
 Ensure proper agitation during the dyeing process.

5.4 Dyeing (lab) section
5.4.1 Introduction
To ensure the highest quality in dyeing and maintain consistency with buyers'
requirements, AUKO-TEX LTD. has established a state-of-the-art laboratory. The
shade of each batch of finished fabrics is verified using data color and brand color
matching systems. Regular and routine tests are conducted to uphold dyeing quality,
fabric standards, and to prevent the presence of chemicals harmful to the human body.
Name: Auto Dispenser Machine Dyeing Laboratory

Brand: Rapid
Origin: China
Figure - 5.41: Machines at Lab Dyeing section
Two types of quality of dyed samples are checked:
1. Physical properties: based on yarn structure.
 Pilling
 Bursting
 Shrinkage
 Button pull strength
 Color fastness

2. Chemical properties: based on dye property.
 Wash fastness
 Light fastness
 Rubbing fastness
 Perspiration fastness
Pilling is tested using the I.C.I pilling tester, and a total of 9 grades are used to assess
pilling. Fabric strength is tested using the Bursting Strength Tester. The strength at
which buttons break is tested using a button pull machine.
The shrinkage quantity of fabric after dyeing and washing is calculated using the
following formula:
Shrinkage quantity = (Initial length - Final length) / Initial length.
A 10 cm × 4 cm sample is used for color fastness check. Multi-fiber (6) is used for color
staining. The sample and multi-fiber are kept together, and color depths are checked
using a grey scale. The maximum value is 4-5. Cotton crocking cloth is used for rubbing
fastness test. Gradings are done using a grey scale. Color shade and change are observed
in a dark room.
In the perspiration test, dyed fabric is exposed to a solution of acid and alkali (1:50) to
simulate perspiration. The discoloration of the sample is evaluated using a grey scale.
5.4.2 Lab Machine Specification (Dyeing)

Different types of machines are used in dyeing lab, as indicated in Table 5.5
SL. No. Name of Machine Brand Origin Qty
1 Auto Dispenser Rapid China 01
2 Spectrophotometer Data Color Korea 01
3 Solution Maker Daelim Starlet USA 01
4 Digital Pipette Rainin Korea 01
5 Lab Dyeing Daelim Starlet China 05

SL. No. Name of Machine Brand Origin Qty
6 Water Bath Shaker Rapid USA 01
7 Oven Dryer Daelim Starlet China 01
8 Light Box Verivide UK 01
9 pH Meter Trans Singapore 01
Table - 5.5: Specification of other types of Lab Equipment (Dyeing) Machines
5.4.3 Process Sequence of Lab Dyeing

Before bulk production, a sample for the approval from industry is sent to the buyer as
per the requirement of the buyer the shade is prepared in a lab dyeing considering the
economic aspects.
Grey Fabric Received from Knitting Section
Batching
Select M/c No
Fabric Loading
Select Production Program
Pretreatment
Select Recipe for Dyeing
Recipe Confirm by DM / SPO
Dyeing
Post Treatment
Unload

5.5 Finishing section
5.5.1 Introduction
Finishing in the textile industry refers to the processes involved after dyeing the fabric
to convert it into a finished usable material. Finishing improve look, performance, and
feel of the textiles. One essential machine used in finishing is the stenter, which is
widely used. The stenter machine plays a crucial role in fabric drying, providing
straightening, GSM control, and adjustment of fabric length and width. With two
driven chains carrying clips securely hold the fabric edges while passing through
enclosed drying compartments. Accurate pinning and overfeeding mechanisms allow
for optimal fabric treatment and customization.
Figure - 5.42: Layout plan of finishing section
5.5.2 Objective of Finishing

 To enhance the luster, whiteness, and overall visual appeal of the material
 To improve the handle of the material, making it softer and fuller to the touch.
 To make the material is resistant to creasing, shrinking, and providing comfort
to the wearer.

 To cover any flaws in the original cloth, creating it more aesthetically pleasing
surface.
 To add specific properties to the material, such as waterproofing or
flameproofing.
5.5.3 Finishing Machine Specification

There are different types of dyeing machines are used in AUKOTEX, as indicated in
Table 5.6
SL. Name of Machine Brand Origin Qty Capacity

No. (Ton)
1. Stenter Machine EHWHA Italy 01 12 Tons
2. Slitting Machine BIANCO Italy 01 10 Tons
3. Slitting Machine CORNIO Italy 01 12 Tons
4. Equalizer Dryer CANLAR Taiwan 01 10 Tons
5. Open Width Compactor LAFER Turkey 01 10 Tons
6. Open Width Compactor FERRARO Italy 01 10 Tons
7. Seuding machine LAFER Turkey 01 06 Tons
8. Raising Machine Mario Crosta Italy 01 09 Tons
9. Hydro-extractor F&P China 01 03 Tons
10. Tumble Dryer PEACOCK Taiwan 01 02 Tons
Table - 5.6: Specification of Finishing Machines

5.5.4 Flow Chart of Finishing for Tube Fabric
Tube Squeezer
5.5.5 Flow Chart of Finishing Open Width Fabric
Open
Squeezer

5.5.6 Finishing Types
Chemical finishing: Involves the use of chemical agents, such as softeners like TMM
(Triethanolamine) or in a Stentor machine.
Mechanical finishing: Involves mechanical processes applied to the fabric to

enhance its properties. Examples of mechanical finishing techniques include brushing,
sanding, or calendaring, which can improve the fabric's texture, appearance, and
performance.
5.5.7 Finishing Effect for Textiles

 Easy-care
 Crease recovery
 Dimensional stability
 Good abrasion resistance
 Good sew ability
 Soft or stiff handle
 Shine or luster

5.5.8 Finishing machine
5.5.8.1 Slitting Machine

The slitting machine is used to convert tubular fabric into an open form. In the fabric
finishing line, the slitter machine is used after hydro-extractor, dewatering and drying
machine. When knit fabrics are in rope form, they need to be opened to their full width
for further processing. The machine consists of a turntable, a rope de-twister, a slitting
unit with draw rollers and drop stitch sensing, and a plaiting unit. The Twist Detector
consists of two sensor rollers and one proximity sensor.
Figure - 5.43: Slitting Machine
Machine specification
 Brand Name: Bianco
 Origin: Italy
 Capacity: 12,000 kg
 Working in AUKO-TEX since: 2010
 Number of Machines in AUKO-TEX: 2

Main parts of Slitter Machine and Their Functions
 Rotary Blade: Cuts the fabric along the break wales line.
 Ring: Helps in the cutting process.
 Guide Roller: Guides the fabric for plaiting after slitting.
 Plaiting: Creates a plaiting with the open fabric.
 Sensor: Identifies the specific wales line for cutting.
 Squeeze Roller: Removes water from the fabric.
 Stretcher: Controls the width of the fabric.
 Overfeeding Wheels: Controls the GSM (Grams per Square Meter).
 De-twisting Device: Delivers the fabric roll in an untwisted form.
 Folding Device: Delivers the fabric in a folded form.
Figure - 5.44: Schematic Diagram of Slitting Machine
Functions of Slitting Machine

 Removes excess water after pretreatment and dyeing.
 Slits the tube fabric with a knife to open it and prepare it for stentering.
 Delivers the fabric in an un-creased and tension-free state.
 Forms a balloon with compressed air to control fabric diameter, GSM, and
shrinkage.
 Imparts a soft finish to the fabric by applying the necessary softener.

5.5.8.2 Dryer Machine
Drying is the process of evaporating the moisture from fabric after de-watering. It
involves using hot air to eliminate the water dispersed in the textile material. In textile
finishing, dryers are used to dry knit, woven fabrics, and dyed yarn. However, the
drying process and mechanism vary for yarn and fabrics. Textile drying machines are
used for drying operations. It is crucial to carefully control the heat application on the
fabric during the drying process.
Machine specification:
 Brand: CANLAR
 Origin: Turkey
 Capacity: 8000 kg
 Operational in AUKO-TEX since: 2010
 Maximum working speed: 30 m/min
 Minimum working speed: 5~15 m/min
 Overfeed range: 0% to -25%
 Maximum temperature: 185°C
 Number of chambers: Two
 Number of burners: 2
Figure - 5.45: Schematic Diagram of Dryer Machine

Functions of Dryer
 For drying fabric

 Increasing GSM through overfeed system
 Controlling the overfeed system
 Controlling vibration to increase GSM
 Adjusting temperature and speed for shade matching
Operating parameters
 Temperature: Set the temperature between 120°C - 130°C for white fabric and
150°C - 170°C for colored fabric.
 GSM: Adjust the overfeed system to achieve the desired GSM, setting it up to
10% - 20% or as required.
 Speed: Set the speed within the range of 6m/min to 20m/min, aiming for the
highest possible speed.

5.5.8.3 Stenter Machine
The stenter machine is the most expensive machine for drying and finishing the fabric.
It stretches and sets fabric dimensions, applies finishing chemicals, and adjusts shade
variation. Stenter machine consists of two endless auto-lubricated driven chains,
typically 40 to 60 m in length carrying pins or clips to hold the fabric edges while
passing through a number of hot-air chambers (3/5, each of about 3 m). Hot air is evenly
directed onto the fabric from above and below in multiple hot-air chambers. The
machine allows for overfeeding the fabric to control shrinkage and precisely increase
width.
Figure - 5.46: Stenter Machine
Functions of Stenter Machine

 Imparts a mechanical finish to enhance the appearance and feel of the fabric.
 Heat setting is done to treat lycra fabric, synthetic fabrics, and blends.
 Controls the width of the fabric.
 It applies and fixes various finishing agents to the fabric.
 The stenter machine ensures the control of loops in knit fabric.
 Moisture levels in the fabric are regulated by the stenter.
 The stenter machine controls spirility in the fabric.
 It also controls the GSM (Grams per Square Meter) of the fabric.
 The stenter machine plays a role in drying the fabric.
 It helps in controlling the shrinkage property of the fabric.
 The stenter machine is used for the curing treatment of resin and water-
repellent fabrics.

Machine Specification
 Brand: Platinum
 Origin: Turkey
 Working in AUKO-TEX since: 2010
Main Parts of Stenter Machine

1. Feed zone:
 Centering device
2. Chemical padding zone:
 Squeezing roller
 Chemical tray
3. Bowing control zone:
 Bowing roller (2 rubber rollers)

 Sensors (6 sensors)
 Uncurling roller
4. Chain entry zone:
 Uncurling device (on both sides of the chain entry)

 Sensors (on both sides of the chain entry)
 Brush roller (4 rollers for attaching the fabric to the chain pins)
 Selvedge gumming device with gum box located under the chain entry
5. Drying zone:
 Gas rotamatic burners (10 burners)
6. Cooling zone
7. Delivery zone

Feed zone
Impregnation with chemicals Drying Units Delivery point
Figure - 5.47: Schematic Diagram of Stenter Machine
Controlling Parameters of Stenter Machine
 Nip Pressure: The pressure applied between the rollers or plates in order to hold
the fabric in place during processing.
 Bow and Skew Controller: Controls the bowing and skewing of the fabric to
ensure even tension and alignment throughout the process.
 Chamber Temperature: The temperature maintained within the chambers of the
stenter machine to facilitate drying or heat setting of the fabric.
 Dwell Time: The amount of time the fabric spends in a particular section or
chamber of the stenter machine.
 Overfeeding: The process of feeding the fabric at a faster rate than its normal
speed, which can help control shrinkage or achieve specific fabric properties.
 Underfeeding: The process of feeding the fabric at a slower rate than its normal
speed, which can be used to control the fabric tension and width.
 Expanders and Untwister: Devices used to expand or untwist the fabric,
ensuring its smooth and uniform appearance.
 Blower: Provides airflow to aid in drying or cooling of the fabric.
 Width of fabric: The control and adjustment of the fabric width to meet specific
requirements.
 Concentration of Chemical: The measurement and regulation of the chemical
concentration in the finishing bath used for applying desired finishes to the fabric.
 Temperature and Viscosity of the Finishing Bath: Monitoring and adjusting
the temperature and viscosity of the finishing bath to ensure proper application
and penetration of the chemicals.
 Clips and Pins: Used to secure the fabric to the chain or frame of the stenter
machine during processing, ensuring proper tension and alignment.

5.5.8.4 Compactor Machine
Introduction
The compactor is a textile finishing machine designed specifically for compacting

various types of knitted fabric, such as jersey, pique, interlock, plush, rib, and sinker,
made of 100% cotton. It is also suitable for compacting cotton blended fabric in rope
form. Its primary purpose is to change the loft and dimensional stability of the fabric
and transform it into a plaited form. Equipped with two felt compacting units, it ensures
the production of high-quality fabric with minimal shrinkage and a soft, fluffy texture.
Figure - 5.48: Compactor Machine
Functions of Compactor Machine
 GSM control of the knitted fabric: For high GSM, overfeed is increased and
fabric width is decreased. For low GSM, overfeed is decreased and fabric
width is increased.
 Twisting control.
 Increase smoothness of fabric.
 Heat setting is done on the fabric, etc.
 To control the diameter.
 To control the shrinkage (increase and decrease).
 To control the spirality of the fabric.
 To calendar the fabric.

Types of Compactor Machine
Different types of machines can be used for compacting, including the trademark
Sanforizer (also known as a blanket compactor), the heated roll and shoe compactor,
and the blade compactor.
Generally, two types of compactor machines are used in textile mills. They are:
1. Tubular compactor machine

2. Open width compacting machine
Machine specification
There are two types of compactors used in AukoTex:
Compactor without Chain:
 Brand: Ferraro
 Origin: Italy
 This compactor has also been working at AUKO-TEX since 2010.
Compactor with Chain:
 Brand: KANLER
 Origin: Turkey
 This compactor has been in operation at AukoTex since 2010.
Feed zone Delivery zone

Steam Arrangement
Figure - 5.49: Schematic Diagram of Compactor Machine (with Chain)

5.6 Washing section
5.6.1 Introduction
Garment washing is a technology used in the garment trade to change and modify the
outlook, appearance, comfort, and design of garments. It goes beyond mere cleaning
and is specifically applied to solid dyed garments or solid printed fabric.
5.6.2 Objective of Garment Washing

Garment washing is used to:
 Remove dirt, dust, and waste materials from garments.
 Remove size materials from garments.
 Provide accurate measurement for customers due to shrinkage during garment
wash.
 Create fading effects by varying the amount of detergent, processing time, and
temperature.
 Increase the brightness and smoothness of garments.
 Change the appearance of garments.
 Make garments directly wearable after purchase.
 Make garments soft and handy.
 Remove harmful materials from garments.
5.6.3 Washing Machine Specification

Different types of washing machines are used in Auko-Tex, as indicated in Table 5.7

No. (Kg)
1. Washing machine -1 Infoteks Turkey 03 200 kg

No. (Kg)
4. Washing machine -4 Ngaishing China 02 40 kg
7. Washing machine -7 N/A Bangladesh 03 120 kg
8. Acid Wash Machine N/A Bangladesh 01 120 kg
9. Dip Dyeing Machine N/A Bangladesh 06 659 Hanger
10. Hydro-extractor -1 Ngaishing China 02 120 kg
11. Hydro-extractor -2 Ngaishing China 01 05 kg
12. Hydro-extractor -3 Infoteks Turkey 01 90 kg
13. Oven Dryer Infoteks Turkey 01 5 meters
14. Tumble dryer Infoteks Turkey 04 200 kg
15. Tumble dryer Ngaishing China 08 80 kg
16. Tumble dryer Ngaishing China 01 05 kg
Table - 5.6: Specification of Washing Machines
5.6.4 Name of Dyeing and Wash Type

5.6.4.1 Garment Dyeing
 Pigment dyeing
 Topping dyeing
 Tie dyeing
 Pigment spray dyeing
 Direct dyeing
 Reactive dyeing
 Deep dyeing

5.6.4.2 Garment Wash
 Normal wash
 Spray wash
 Spray acid wash (dry wash)
 Dryer hand feel
 Rain wash
 Silicon wash
 Crinkle acid wash (dry wash)
 Stone wash
 Enzyme wash
 Barn out
 Fabric pumping
 Snow wash (white paste)
5.6.4.3 Required materials:
 Water
 Silicon
 Softener
 Enzyme
 Acid (KMnO4)
 Stone

5.6.5 Washing Section Production Process Flowchart
Collect monthly shipment.
Conduct production planning.
Receive garments for counting.
Collect garments for pre-production (PP) sample.
Conduct an in-house PP meeting.
Check garments before wash.
Make a test batch.
Plan the washing process by allocating machines.
Check garments after wash for quality control (QC).
Conduct a bulk production batch meeting.
Seek approval for bulk production.
Perform QC checks at the end table.
Count and bundle the finished garments.
5.6.6 List of Washing Faults

 Color shade variation  Running shading
 Crease marks  Over blasting/ low blasting
 After wash holes  Over grinding / low grinding
 Very dark and very light color  Bad smell due to poor neutralization
 Bleach spot  Poor hand feel
 Bottom hem and course edge destroy  High or low affect/ abrasion on garments
 High hairiness  Spot on garments
 Poor brightness

5.7 Printing section
5.7.1 Introduction
In the competitive market, adding value to products is essential for survival. AUKO-
TEX Group recognizes this and has established a strong design and R&D team, along
with modern print machinery, to enhance their product offerings. Their graphic design
studio serves as a creative hub, where designers work closely to stay updated with the
latest trends and create captivating art and sketches for international customers.
AUKO-TEX's print R&D team focuses on developing innovative printing techniques

using cutting-edge chemicals and color blends to attract customers. These techniques
are then adapted by graphic designers to create unique and trendy prints that align
with buyer preferences.
Octopus Printing Machine Sublimation Printing Machine
Figure - 5.50: Printing Section of AUKO-TEX

5.7.2 Printing Machine Specification
5.7.2.1 Specification of Octopus Printing Machine:

SL. No. Brand Origin Plate Head
1 Pannon Spain 12 8
2 Pannon Spain 12 8
3 Pannon Spain 12 8
4 Roq UK 12 8
5 Roq UK 12 8
6 Sulfet Spain 16 18
Table - 5.7: Specification of Octopus Printing Machine
5.7.2.2 Specification of Sublimation Printing Machine:

SL. No. Brand Origin Software used
1 Epson Japan Epson Manual
2 Epson Japan Epson Manual
3 Mimaki Japan Mimaki Manual
4 Mimaki Japan Mimaki Manual
Table - 5.8: Specification of Sublimation Printing Machine
5.7.2.3 Specification of Other Types of Printing Machines:

SL. No. Machine Name Qty Function
Transfer print from coated paper to

1 Heat Press Machine 3
fabric
Auto Heat Transfer Press Attach sticker with garment by

2 2
Machine applying heat
3 Exposing Machine 2 Expose design onto mesh
4 Digital Exposing Machine 1 Expose design onto mesh

SL. No. Machine Name Qty Function
Eco-Knise Screen Wash

5 1 Washing of screen after exposing
Machine
6 Dryer Machine 1 Drying after washing of screen
Table - 5.9: Specification of other types of Printing Machines
5.7.2.4 Specification of Lab Equipment (Printing)

SL. No. Machine Name Brand Origin
1 Tumble dryer Machine Whirlpool USA
2 Dyna washing Machine Dynamica Italy
3 Washing Machine Siemens Germany
4 Washing Machine Siemens Germany
Table - 5.10: Specification of other types of Lab Equipment (Printing) Machines
5.7.3 Ingredient
5.7.3.1 Printing Ingredients:
 Binder
 Emulsifier (liquefying paste)
 Fixer - Oxal (normal fixing), 104 (high fixing)
5.7.3.2 Other Ingredients:
 Photocare TXR (for mesh coating)

 Kiwo Bond (frame adhesive)
 Thinner (spot removal)
 NK Plaster (glue)

5.7.4 Process Flow Chart of Printing Section
Design is received from the buyer
Design grading is done
Design output is prepared
Screens are made and exposed
Color mixing and color matching are done
Sample is made
Sample is sent to the buyer for approval
Bulk cut panels are received
Measurements are collected from the sample on pattern paper
Palate gumming is done
Screens are set
Measurements and color are checked
Preproduction approval is obtained
Bulk production takes place
Quality check is conducted
Counting and delivery are done

5.7.5 Flow Chart of Mesh Preparation
Graphics are prepared.
Mash fitting is done.
Emission is carried out.
Exposing is done.
Washing is performed.
5.7.6 Flow Chart of Printing Paste Preparation
Pigment and rubber are added as required.
Binder is added to the mixture.
Dye is added to achieve the desired color.
Shade matching is performed to ensure the desired color consistency.
Fixer is added to stabilize the color.
5.7.7 Printing Types

The different types of prints used in AUKO-TEX are:
 Burnout Print  Heat Transfer Print

 Crack Print  Jell Print
 Discharge  Pigment & Rubber
 Flock Print  Puff Print
 Foil Print  Sublimation Print
 Glitter Print  Velvet Print

5.7.8 Printing Faults
Blebbiness: Some parts of the printed surface become rough and blebby. This
happens when the viscosity of the color paste and screen mesh are not suitable,
leading to uneven adhesion.
Figure - 5.51: Blebbiness
Drops: Stains or unevenness caused by water drops.
Figure - 5.52: Drops
Bleeding: When the printed motif blurs and the design outline becomes unclear. This
happens when the color paste's viscosity is too low, the dyestuff concentration in the
print paste is too high, or excessive amounts of color paste or hygroscopic agent are
used.
Figure - 5.53: Bleeding
Stain: It indicates a discoloration caused by a foreign substance, grease, and oil or

sizing residue on the fabric being dyed. There are several types of stain during print,
described below.

I. Staining during Steaming: Stains are transferred when a poorly washed printing
table is used, the printing cloth is piled up without sufficient drying, or parts of the
cloth touch each other during steaming.
Figure - 5.54: Stain during Steaming
II. Stain Due to Friction: Staining occurs when the wet motif comes into contact
with another surface and gets scuffed.
Figure - 5.55: Stain due to Friction
Color Paste Splash: Color smearing happens during printing, typically when the
roller speed is too fast, the screen plate is lifted incorrectly, or the color paste
viscosity is too low.
Figure - 5.56: Color Paste Splash

Uneven Printing: Horizontal color tone gaps appear at regular intervals. This may be
due to issues with the screen frame, poorly installed squeegee, or uneven pressure
applied by the squeegee.
Figure - 5.57: Uneven Printing Due to Crease
Double Printing: Designs are slightly off and appear disfigured. This can be caused
by poor engraving, inadequate cloth adhesion, or other related issues.
Figure - 5.58: Double Printing
Extra Hanging Yarns: Stains or yarn-like marks caused by extra yarns sticking out
of the cloth. This occurs when poorly knit fabric is used.
Figure - 5.59: Stain due to Extra Hanging Yarn

5.8 Garment section
5.8.1 Introduction
AUKO-TEX has various sections in its garment division, each serving a specific
purpose. These sections include:
 Sample section
 Cutting section
 Sewing section
 Finishing section
5.8.2 Sample Section

Sample is the prototype or model of the garment, upon which the buyer can decide
whether to confirm the order or not. It is the first section of the garment manufacturing
process and is used in the apparel industry to make sample garments for approval and
pattern sets for bulk production when needed.
5.8.3 Flowchart of Sample Preparation Process
Receive Tech Pack
CAD & pattern making as per style & measurement
Sample making
Approval
Size setting (On development stage)
Evaluation of the sample
Pre-production meeting
Grading of the sample
Sending the sample for Buyer Approval
Marker making

5.9 Cutting section
5.9.1 Introduction
In Aukotex, the cutting section is a vital part of the garment manufacturing process,
where garments parts are cutting according to the pattern. In the garments cutting
department, a process flow chart has to be maintained to send the right measurement
parts in the next process for making quality garments.
Figure - 5.60: Cutting Section at AUKO-TEX
5.9.2 Cutting Machine Specification

There are different types of cutting machines are used in AUKO-TEX, as indicated in
table 5.12
SL. Name of Machine Brand Origin Model Qty Capacity

No. (pcs)
01. Auto-Fabric Spreader Gerber USA XLS-50 05 50,000 pcs
02. Plotter Gerber USA XLP-95 02 80,000 pcs
03. Auto Cutter Gerber USA GT-7250 01 40,000 pcs
04. Manual Cutter KM Japan KS-AU V 16 34,500 pcs
Table - 5.11: Specification of Cutting Machines

5.9.3 Flowchart of Cutting Process
Marker Receiving
Marker Checking
Lay Spreading
Manual and auto MACHINE Cutting
Numbering
Bundle Cut Writing
Body Transfer to QC
Panel Check
Store Delivery
Replace and Leftover
Print/ Embroidery Store
Cutting Fabrics Received from Cutting
Fabric send to Print/ Embroidery
Further Cutting Fabrics Received from Print/ Embroidery
Input Issue
Bundle Pair
Bundle Pair Attaching
Delivery to Sewing.
5.9.4 Cutting Defects in Garments

 Miss Cut  Bowing  Rugged cut
 Running Shade  Notch Mark  Fabric Way
 Matching Piles  Leaning  Measurement
 Numbering &  Tension Loose  Bias
Bundling  Alignment

5.10 Sewing section
5.10.1 Introduction
The sewing process attaches different parts of the cut pieces. Many operators perform
single operations in this workplace. These factors determine which parts of the garment
can be sewn at each station. The sewing section remains the most important department
in the apparel industry. In AUKO-TEX, the sewing line currently operates at a daily
production capacity of 52,000 pcs.
Figure – 5.61: Sewing Section at AUKO-TEX
5.10.2 Sewing Machine Specification

Different types of sewing machines are used in AUKO-TEX, indicated in table 5.13
SL. No. Name of Machine Brand Origin No of sets
1 Plain Machine Juki & Brother Japan 512
2 Overlock Machine Pegasus Germany 360
3 Flat Lock Machine Pegasus Germany 210
4 Button Hole Machine Brother Japan 15
5 Button Stitching Juki & Brother Japan 13
6 Zigzag Plain Machine Juki & Brother Japan 9

SL. No. Name of Machine Brand Origin No of sets
7 Bar Tagging Machine Brother Japan 11
8 PMD Machine Kansai Japan 2
9 Snap Button Machine Tuju Japan 9
10 Rib Cutter Machine Deno Italy 17
11 Vertical P/M Machine Brother Japan 15
12 Feed of the Arm Brother Japan 10
13 Two Needle P/M Brother Japan 6
14 Label Cutting M/c Cutex - 7
15 Vacuum Iron Table Macpi Italy 80
16 Needle Detector Hasima Japan 3
Table - 5.12: Specification of Sewing Machines
5.10.3 Flowchart of Sewing Process
Sewing Section Input
Garments Part Match
Sewing Operation
Sewing Quality Inspection (In Line)
Remove faults (if any)
Final Quality Inspection (output inspection)
Quality Check by Quality Manager (AQL System)
Delivery to Next Process

5.10.4 Process Sequence of a Basic T-shirt in a Sewing line
1st Shoulder Joint
Neck Joint by Folder
Back Neck Binding
Neck Binding Tuck
Front Neck Top Stitch
Neck Rib in Tuck with Size Label Attach
2nd Shoulder Joint
Sleeve Joint
Side Seam with Care Label Attach
Sleeve Hem
Bottom Hem
5.10.5 Machine Used in a T-Shirt Production
No of No of No of No of
Process name Machine name
operator needle looper bobbin
1st shoulder joint Over lock machine 1 2 2
Neck joint by folder Over lock machine 1 2 2
Back neck Binding Flat lock machine 1 1 1
Neck binding tuck Plain machine 1 1 1

No of No of No of No of
Process name Machine name
operator needle looper bobbin
Flat lock machine
Front neck Top Stich 1 1 1
(cylinder bed)
Neck rib in Tuck Plain machine
1 1 1
with size label attach (SNLS)
2nd shoulder joint Over lock machine 1 2 2
Back neck top stich Plain machine
3 1 1
with neck to tuck (SNLS)
Sleeve Joint Over lock machine 1 2 2
Side seam with care
Over lock machine 3 2 2
label attach
Flat lock machine
Sleeve hem 2 2 1
(small cylinder)
Flat lock machine
Bottom hem 1 2 1
(compressor)
Table - 5.13: Machine Used in a T-Shirt Production
5.10.6 Needle Used in Sewing Section
Machine Name Needle Name Needle Numbers
Plain machine DB 7, 9, 11
Overlock machine DC 7, 9, 11, 14
Flat lock machine UY 7, 9, 10, 11, 12
Button attaching machine DP 17 11
Button hole machine DP 5 9, 11
Feed of the arm machine UO 11
Table - 5.14: Needle Used in Sewing Section

5.10.7 Sewing Defects
1. Joint Stitch: This sewing defect refers to stitches on a seam that are not
properly aligned or joined, resulting in an uneven or misaligned appearance.
2. Open Seam: This defect occurs when the seam has not been sewn securely,
leading to gaps or openings along the stitched line.
3. Skip Stitch: This defect is characterized by intermittent missing stitches along
the seam, resulting in uneven or incomplete stitching.
4. Up Down Stitch: This defect occurs when the stitches vary in length or
tension, creating an uneven or inconsistent appearance along the seam.
5. Broken Stitch: This defect is identified by broken or incomplete stitches,
resulting in gaps or loose threads along the seam.
6. Needle Mark: This defect refers to visible marks or punctures left by the
needle on the fabric, often caused by incorrect needle selection or improper
stitching technique.
7. Low Tension: This defect occurs when the stitching tension is too loose,
causing the stitches to be visibly loose or easily pulled apart.
8. Pleat: This defect is characterized by unintended folds or pleats in the fabric
along the seam, typically caused by incorrect fabric handling or feeding during
the sewing process.
9. Raw Edge: This defect refers to unfinished or untreated fabric edges, resulting
in frayed or exposed edges that may unravel over time.

5.11 Embroidery Section
5.11.1 Introduction
Through embroidery techniques applied to AUKO-TEX Group's garments, a
combination of state-of-the-art machines and the skilled craftsmanship of passionate
workers creates exquisite masterpieces. Every stitch is carefully crafted to bring forth
AUKO-TEX Group's best in embroidery products, such as Embroidery Sequin, Chain
Stitch, Cross Stitch, High Density, Puff Stitch, Felt Applique, Zigzag Stitch, Coil Stitch,
Stipple, and more. AUKO-TEX Group's production capacity is supported by four Multi
Headed Computerized Embroidery Machines, specifically TAJIMA from Japan,
capable of stitching up to 12,000 pieces per day.
Figure - 5.62: Print Head of Embroidery Machine at AUKO-TEX
5.11.2 Embroidery Machine Specification

Different types of sewing machines are used in AUKO-TEX, indicated in table 5.16
SL. No. Name of Machine Brand Origin Qty Capacity
1 Embroidery M/C Tajima Japan 02 24000 pcs
Twin Sequin Type

2 Tajima Japan 01 6000 pcs
III Left & Right
Double Head
3 Yuemning China 01 1800 pcs
Laser Cutter
Embroidery
4 Tajima Japan 01 200 pcs
Sample M/C

SL. No. Name of Machine Brand Origin Qty Capacity
5 Thread Winder Hashima China 01 N/A

6 Bobbin Winder Tajima Japan 01 N/A
Table - 5.15: Specification of Embroidery Machines
5.11.3 Flowchart of Embroidery Section
Artwork from buyer
ES-65 Software
Design analysis
Send to buyer
Recommendation & correction from the buyer
Sample preparation
Send sample to buyer
If approved, proceed to bulk production
5.11.4 Type of Style

 Sequence Embroidery  Felt Applique Embroidery
 Chain Stitch Embroidery  Fabric Applique Embroidery
 Cross Stitch Embroidery  Coil Stitch Embroidery
 High Density Embroidery  Motif Fill Embroidery
 3D Stitch Embroidery  Tatami, Zigzag Embroidery

5.12 Finishing (Garments) section
5.12.1 Introduction
The finishing process involves activities like washing, checking, inspection, pressing,
and packing. It improves garment quality and ensures timely order shipment. The
finishing section follows a process flow chart and includes tasks such as thread
trimming, garment inspection, and ironing.
5.12.2 Flowchart of Finishing Section
Sewing Fabric Store
Styling (bundling/hour according to capacity of iron man)
Ironing
Quality Check
Measurement
Quality Check (sleeve, shoulder & side seam)
Final get up
Styling (size wise)
Price hang tag attach
Folding
Packing
Pass through metal detector
Styling (size & color)
Assortment
Sewing Fabric Store

5.12.3 List of Trims and Accessories
Trims Used in Sewing Section Accessories Used in Sewing Section
Sewing Thread Hanger Poly bag

Rivet Scotch tape Plastic Staple
Button
Hangtag Mini Polybag
Zipper
PP Band Paper Band
Lining
Tissue Paper Elastic bag
Motif
Interlining Iron Seal Carton Sticker
Shoulder Pad Pin/Clip Collar stand
Lace Safety Sticker Arrow Sticker

Hook & Loop Tag pin Both Side Tape
Table - 5.16: List of Trims and Accessories
5.12.4 Defects in Trims and Accessories

 Print Problem  Logo Mistake
 Print Mistake  Broken
 Color Problem  Letter Mistake
 Size Mistake  Color Verify
 Code Mistake  Measurement Problem
 PO Mistake  Cutting Problem
 Style mistake  Fitness Problem

5.13. Research and Development (R&D) Section
5.13.1 Introduction
At AUKO-TEX group, the research and development (R&D) department works to
bring the creative ideas and designs to life. The dedicated team of experts works closely
with buyers, fashion designers, and industry professionals to turn concepts into actual
products. R&D team conduct market surveys, studies, and research analysis to develop
fabrics, embellishments, dyeing techniques, and washing styles. AUKO-TEX takes
pride in their willingness to push the boundaries and embrace the challenges during the
product development process.
5.13.2 Objectives
 To plan and control processes.
 To get and collect buyer feedback.
 To coordinate with Production, Marketing, and Merchandising departments.
 To find the best production process with quality.
 To minimize time and cost with productivity.
 To plan, set recipes, and develop new styles and wash techniques according to
customer requirements.
 To try to fulfill buyer requirements based on their comments and feedback.
 To increase productivity and profitability.
5.13.3 Sections
The R&D department at AUKO-TEX is a dynamic force, continuously striving to
incorporate cutting-edge technologies, create innovative products, and prepare them for
market release. Within the department, there are distinct sections, each focusing on a
specific area of textiles, all united in the pursuit of developing superior-quality products
using the latest technology. These sections are:

1) Knitting R&D: where new knitting techniques and materials are explored.
2) Printing and Embroidery R&D, which explores innovative printing and embroidery
methods.
3) Fashion R&D, which constantly pushes boundaries to create trendy and stylish
designs.
5.13.4 Flowchart of Knitting R&D
Sampling Order receive from the merchandise
Analysis of sample
Knitting parameters setting
Finishing parameter
Sample Development
Check and testing of the sample
Approved the sample

5.14 ETP
5.14.1 Introduction
Effluent is the stream of excess chemical liquor extracted from the industry after using
it in the original operation. Taking for instance the establishment of ETP and WTP
because they have, nothing is more important than the maintenance of a pollution-free
environment.
Figure - 5.63: ETP Water Discharge Point
5.14.2 Objectives
 To turn waste water into clean and safe reusable water
 To ensure the compliance with environmental rules and regulation
 ETP is the best way to reduce waste from industrial waste waster
 Properly maintained ETP would help us to save money in long run.
5.14.3 Requirement of Discharge Effluent

World bank provide a requirement chart of discharge effluent is given below:
Indicator Range
pH 6-8
BOD <50
COD <250
SS <100
TDS Not stated
Color Clear
Table - 5.17: Requirement of Discharge Effluent

5.14.4 Flowchart of Effluent Treatment Plant Process
Screen brush
Lifting pump unit
Storage tank
Neutralization tank
Distributor tank
Biological oxygen tank
Sedimentation feeding tank
Sedimentation curve
Sludge return pump slump
Sludge thickener
Filter Press
5.14.5 Chemicals & Their Functions used in ETP

H2SO4: Neutralize the waste water controlling the PH. It is auto dispensed in the
neutralization tank.
Polyelectrolyte: Used for sedimentation sludge coagulation and also killing bacteria.
Antifoaming Agent: Used for reduction controlling foam. It is used auto manually in
the distribution tank.
De-colorant: Used for removing color. It is used auto manually in the sedimentation
feeding tank.
Sodium Hypochlorite: It is used to kill harmful bacteria. It is used in the biological

oxidation tank.

5.14.5 Parts Of ETP
The ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant) consists of several parts:
1. Screen Chamber: It uses a hydraulic system to filter influent, removing coarse
particles. Regular cleaning is required to prevent clogging.
Figure - 5.64: Screen Chamber
2. Homogenization Tank: It collects water from the screen chamber and stores it
before transferring it to the equalization tank. Effluents with varying concentrations
and pH levels are mixed here.
Figure - 5.65: Homogenization Tank

3. Equalization Tank: It stores effluents for 8 to 12 hours, ensuring a uniform
mixture and aiding in neutralization. It reduces suspended solids (SS) and total
suspended solids (TSS).
Figure - 5.66: Equalization Tank
4. Neutralization Tank: The influent from the equalization tank, containing acid or
alkali, is directed here. The pH is adjusted to meet required standards by adding acid
or alkali.
Figure - 5.67: Neutralization Tank

5. Biological Tank: This is where microorganisms, mainly bacteria, remove or reduce
organic and inorganic compounds through oxidation and synthesis processes.
Figure - 5.68: Biological Tank
6. Aeration Tank: Water flows over different arrangements in a thin film, and
oxygen dissolves into the water through contact with air. Urea and DAP are added,
reducing BOD and COD values by up to 90%.
7. Clarifier: It collects biological sludge, while the treated effluent is discharged. The
outlet water quality is checked to ensure it meets standards.
8. Sludge Thickener: The incoming water contains 60% water and 40% solids.
Through centrifugal action, the sludge thickener separates solids and liquids, reducing
water content to 40% and increasing solids to 60%. The collected sludge settles at the
bottom, while the effluent is reprocessed.

5.15 WTP
5.15.1 Introduction
Water treatment plant is used for treatment of water which is collected under surface.
It treats the water before it is sent to the dyeing, finishing, and washing section.
5.15.2 Standard Water Quality of Dyeing House

Parameter Permissible Concentration
Color Color less
Smell No bad smell
Water Hardness <5 ppm
pH value should be 7-8 (Neutral)
Dissolve solid < 1 ppm
Inorganic salt < 500 ppm
Iron (Fe) < 0.1 ppm
Manganese (Mn) < 0.01 ppm
Copper (Cu) <0.005 ppm
Nitrate (NO3) < 50 ppm
Nitrate (NO2) < 5 ppm
Solid content < 50mg/L
Table - 5.18: Standard Water Quality of Dyeing House
5.15.3 Different Parts of WTP

1) Deep Pump: The deep pump collects the surface water.
2) Raw Tank: The raw tank stores the water before treatment.
3) WTP Pump: The WTP pump sends the stored water to the processing plant.
4) Oxidation Tank: The oxidation tank oxidizes organic and inorganic materials in
the water and contains Mn stone.
5) Iron Filter: The iron filter eliminates iron and other heavy metals from surface
water. It consists of big stone, small stone, CORE sand, fine sand, and sand slit.
6) Resin Filter: The resin filter removes hardness and iron from the water.

7) Salt Tank: In the salt tank, sodium chloride is added to the water.
8) Soft Tank: The treated water is stored in the soft tank for further production
purpose.
5.15.4 Flowchart of Water Treatment Plant Process
water inlet in the plant
oxidation of different materials
Removal of Iron and heavy metals
Resin filtration
Hardness removing
Salt Removing
Salt Adding
Store The Treated Water

CHAPTER 06: QUALITY ASSURANCE
SYSTEM
6.1 Quality Assurance System

6.1.1 Introduction
Quality assurance is a process management activity that focuses on ensuring that the
processes used to create a product produce as few defects as possible, as it is better to
prevent quality issues than to correct them later. AUKO-TEX LTD. recognizes the
importance of maintaining uniform quality in their products and raw materials used in
the processing. Each department in the company acts as a customer when receiving
goods and as a supplier when delivering to the next department, ensuring the required
quality throughout the entire supply chain.
6.1.2 Objectives of Quality Assurance System

 Reduce overall material/product loss (Level of rejection) during the
production process to not exceed 1.5% annually.
 Reduce defects during dyeing and knitting operations by 10%.
 Develop a quality procedure manual in compliance with ISO 9001.
 Ensure a better work environment for personnel within the organization.
 Enhance process control and development to optimize quality.
.
6.1.3 Stages of Quality Assurance

Tests are done at those stages here-
1. Knitting Quality Control

2. Dyeing Quality Control
3. Finishing Quality Control
4. Printing Quality Control
5. Cutting Quality Control

6. Sewing Quality Control
7. Finishing (Garments) Quality Control
8. Final Quality Check
6.2 Machine Used for Quality Test Lab
SL.
Name of Machine Brand Origin Qty
No.
1 Light Box (2 FT) Verivide UK 01
2 Button Pull Tester Imada Japan 01
3 Crockmeter (Auto) James Heal UK 01
4 ICI Pilling Tester SDL Atlas UK 01
5 Bursting Strength Tester James Heal UK 01
6 Light Fastness Tester Q-sun USA 01
7 Perspiration Tester SDL Atlas UK 01
8 Quick Wash SDL Atlas UK 01
9 Wascator SDL Atlas UK 01
10 Microscope Micros Austria 01
11 pH Meter Mettler Teledo USA 01
12 Random Tumble pilling James Heal UK 01
Martindale pilling & Abrasion
13 James Heal UK 01
Tester
Table - 6.1: Specification of Lab Equipment (Quality Test) Machines
6.3 Quality Standards for Quality Testing
Laboratory: Quality inspections are conducted in the laboratory to ensure the desired
standards are met.
Grey fabric inspection section: The quality of the grey fabric is inspected to identify
any defects or issues before further processing.
Dyeing section: Quality control measures are implemented during the dyeing process
to ensure the desired color and consistency.

Finishing section: The quality of the finished product is checked in this section to
ensure it meets the required standards.
Final quality control section: A final inspection is conducted to verify that the
garments or fabrics meet all quality criteria before being shipped.
For the inspection of garments or fabrics, AUKO-TEX follows the 4-point system.
6.4 The 4-Point System
1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points are assigned according to the size, quality, and significance
of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points is assigned for any single flaw. Only major
errors are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. Whenever errors
are recognized during fabric inspection under 4 points system and defect must be
assigned a number of points depending on the severity or length. Total defect points /
100 square yards of fabric are calculated and the acceptance criteria are generally not
more than 40-penalty points. Fabric rolls containing more than 40-points are considered
as rejected.
Inches (˝) (mm) Points

From 0 > 3″ length/width Up to 75mm 1 point
From 3.1″ > 6″ length/width 75mm > 150mm 2 points
From 6.1″ > 9″ length/width 150mm > 230mm 3 points
More than 9″ length/width More than 230mm 4 points
Holes and openings (the largest dimension) Points
1“or less 2
Over 1“ 4
Table - 6.2: Grading of Four Point System

6.5 General Inspection Procedures
1. Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation
and proper lighting.
2. Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45-60-degree angles to
inspector and must be done on appropriate cool white light 2 f96 fluorescent bulbs
above viewing area. Back light can be used as and when needed.
3. Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute.
4. Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for
assessing color, construction, finish and visual appearance.
5. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre and
selvage and the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated and
documented.
6. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight.
7. Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard.
8. All defects must be flagged during inspection
9. The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on
supplier ticketed tag and any deviation must be documented and reported to mill
for additional replacement to avoid shortage.
10. If yarn dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement must
be done from beginning, middle and end of selected rolls.
For example:
Given Parameters: Total linear points = 27, Total length of the roll = 120 yards
Width of the roll = 89 inches
Calculation:
× ×
= ( )× ( )
× ×
=
×
= 9.1%
Results: Satisfactory Roll (Acceptable)

CHAPTER 07: MAINTENANCE
7.1 Maintenance
7.1.1 Introduction
Maintenance is a procedure by which we can maintain active functioning in operation
according to the behavior and utility of a particular element. Maintenance is a vital
procedure that ensures the ongoing operation and optimal performance of machinery,
equipment, buildings, and other facilities at Aukotex. With regular inspections, repairs,
and upkeep, maintenance helps prevent breakdowns and ensures the smooth
functioning of operations.
7.1.2 Objectives of Maintenance

 To ensure the reliability and availability of equipment
 To optimize performance and productivity
 To extend equipment lifespan
 To ensure compliance with quality standards
 To minimize downtime and disruptions
 To Ensure a safe working environment
 To promote cost-effective operations
7.2 Different Types of Maintenance

1. Preventive Maintenance: AUKO-TEX LTD employs preventive maintenance as a
predetermined routine activity to ensure timely inspections and checks. The goal is to
avoid unwanted machine stoppages or part breakages that may result in production
breakdowns.
2. Breakdown Maintenance: In the event of equipment failure or malfunction, repairs

are carried out after the machine has stopped functioning properly and is unable to
perform its normal operations.

3. Scheduled Maintenance: Expert engineers from the maintenance department are
responsible for conducting maintenance on different machines. Scheduled maintenance
is performed according to a specific schedule. In AUKO-TEX LTD, maintenance is
typically conducted every 30 days.
7.3 Maintenance Guideline of AUKO-TEX

 Conduct routine checks and inspections of electrical and electromechanical
systems in machinery, generators, boilers, and other equipment.
 Develop a preventive maintenance schedule and implement it consistently.
 Perform routine maintenance tasks, including cleaning, lubrication, and
adjustments.
 Diagnose and troubleshoot electrical problems in machines, and assemble and
handle machine components when necessary.
 Plan and respond to unforeseen disasters, making use of available resources to
minimize downtime and implement necessary actions.
 Oversee troubleshooting, systems backups, archiving, and disaster recovery,
providing expert support as needed.
 Collaborate with regional stations to assist in resolving maintenance-related
issues and provide timely solutions.
 Ensure responsible maintenance of company assets to maximize their lifespan
and value.

CHAPTER 08 STORE AND INVENTORY
CONTROL
8.1 Inventory control

8.1.1 Introduction
Inventory is a raw material work in process, component or finished parts; and finished
products held in storage waiting use for sale or in the process manufacture. It ensures
that the right inventory is available at the right time to support production and meet
customer demands. Inventory control encompasses various processes, such as
calculating stock levels, maintaining data accuracy, and optimizing inventory for
maximum benefit. In the apparel industry, inventory management plays a vital role, as
clothing items pass through multiple stages from sourcing to manufacturing to quality
assurance and ultimately reaching the end customer.
8.1.2 Objective
 To obtain the best balance between production and inventory carrying cost
 To minimize losses
 To avoid stockouts and keep inventory holding costs in balance
 To save amount of investment
 To know the cash position
 To avoid unauthorized use
8.2 Inventory system

AUKO-TEX manages different types of inventory goods in their operations. For raw
materials, various types and counts of yarns are procured, stored, and categorized based
on their type and count. Dyes and chemicals have a separate storage area with a
maintained list of different types and quantities. Spare parts for machines are kept in a
mechanical store room, organized based on size and specific needs. Knitted goods are
managed using a reliable inventory system that tracks movements and ensures precise

stock control. Finished goods, such as dyed fabrics, are recorded with important details
and transferred to the garments section for further processing.
8.3 Job & Responsibilities at Store and Inventory Control

 Store raw materials like chemicals, dyes, fabric, yarn, and equipment needed
for knit garments properly.
 Request materials based on production line demand and complete necessary
paperwork.
 Confirm daily delivery of materials to the production floor and manage store
inventory.
 Monitor and maintain records, reports, and inventory cards.
 Check and supervise daily materials movement and related documents.
 Prepare and send monthly stock report to the reporting boss.
 Follow up with suppliers for day-to-day requirements and coordinate timing
for material issuance and receipt.
 Ensure correct specification and quantity when purchasing items.
 Update daily consumption, material receipt, and stock status, and maintain
reorder and overstock levels.
 Receive imported items according to Letter of Credit.
 Maintain and track non-moving, fast-moving, and slow-moving items.
 Ensure stock levels for smooth production and safety.
 Manage regular store operations as per procedures.
 Execute day-to-day store functions following the manual and standard
operating procedures.
 Ensure safe receipt, storage, retrieval, and timely dispatch of items.
 Ensure store compliance with inbound and outbound goods, warehouse
management, and safety.
 Maintain inventory control and ensure minimum stock levels.

CHAPTER 09: COST ANALYSIS
9.1 Costing
Costing is the processof determining the expenses associated with the production and
marketing of a product. In the knit composite factory like AUKO-TEX, the cost of the
final garment is determined based on the buyer or customer requirements. The
merchandiser provides the fabric consumption specifications, and calculations are
made to determine the required quantities of dye, chemicals, printing, and washing
ingredients for processing. The final cost of manufacturing the garment, including a
profit margin, is then established. The unit price is then presented to the buyer for
approval.
9.2 Factors that Influence the Final Pricing of The Product

 Total dyes and chemical cost  Cost of dyeing
 Total utility cost  Cost of finishing
 Salary  Cost of cutting, sewing, and accessories
 Lunch expenses  Cost of printing (if applicable)
 Government cash incentives  Labor cost (direct and indirect)
 Yarn cost  Factory cost
 Knitting cost  Entertainment cost
9.3 Costing of a Product includes

 Raw material cost
 Market demand analysis
 Operating costs of the industry
 Forecasted profit of the company
 Buyer's expectations

9.4 Costing of Yarn
Yarn Type Rate ($)
100% COTTON ORGANIC 4.00
CVC 60/40 VORTEX 3.37
CVC 60/40 ORGANIC 3.51
100% POLYESTER 3.17
100% SUPER COTTON SLUB 4.27
100% SUPER COTTON BCI 3.86
100% COTTON 3.86
100% COTTON 3.86
100% COTTON SLUB 4.76
100% COTTON 3.81
CVC 60/40 3.30
100% COTTON BCI 3.92
100% COTTON SLUB 4.07
Table - 9.1: Cost of Yarn
9.5 Knitting cost

Fabric Name Charge per kg (Tk)
Single Jersey 15.07
Single Jersey with Lycra 46.58
Single locoste PK 21.92
Double lacoste PK 21.92
Single PK 24.66

Double PK 24.66
1X1 rib 24.66
2X2 rib 41.10
2X2 rib Lycra 54.74
Interlock 47.95
Fleece 41.10
Table - 9.2: Charge of Knitting
9.6 Dyeing Cost

Processing Type Price per Kg
Light shade 102.75
Medium shade 123.30
Dark 129.65
Extra dark 150.70
Reactive black 178.10
White 41.10
Table - 9.3: Charge of Dyeing

CHAPTER 10: MARKETING ACTIVITIES
10.1 Marketing of AUKO-TEX Group

AUKO-TEX group is a well-known company in the garment sector. The company is
growing quickly and is highly respected. It is involved in various aspects of garment
production, such as knitting, dyeing, printing, embroidery, washing, and making
garments and accessories. It has also expanded into the buying house and real estate
sectors.
In the marketing department of AUKO-TEX ltd, a team of skilled marketing officers,

led by the executive director, handles marketing activities. The main goal of these
activities is to effectively communicate the value of the products to customers and make
the selling process easier. This includes tasks like researching the market and planning
advertising strategies. The marketing team carefully examines market trends, customer
preferences, and competition to gain important insights. This helps to identify the target
markets and create effective marketing plans. Dedicated marketing officers work
diligently to organize and implement advertising campaigns across different platforms,
ensuring that our message reaches our desired audience.
10.2 Products Gallery

The Products' Gallery at AUKO-TEX LTD. is a space where creativity and science
come together. It is designed with excellent interior decoration and spans across two
spacious floors. The gallery is organized categorically to showcase our wide range of
product samples. Clients visiting the gallery can easily view our products from a
distance, and we also offer the convenience of Video Conference Meeting
arrangements. This allows clients to have virtual meetings and view our products
remotely at the Product Display Center.

Figure - 10.1: Product Gallery at AUKO-TEX
10.3 Marketing Strategy

Senior marketing officers, merchandisers, and higher officials of the company handle
buyer dealings. The industry has established relationships with fixed buyers who
consistently place orders throughout the year. Notably, Bestseller is a key buyer with
whom the industry maintains excellent communication. Additionally, there are other
buyers with whom the marketing officers and merchandisers engage to secure orders.
Both parties negotiate and agree upon rates and order quantities. Furthermore, the
industry often presents developed samples to buyers, aiming to persuade them to
make purchases.
10.4 Duties & Responsibilities of Marketing Officers

 Setting annual marketing targets, formulating and implementing budget plan &
achieve the target with quality product.
 Meet the company's revenue and profit target with proper planning & execution
with extended standard skill, capability and customer focus.
 Regular market visit, data collection and analysis to support in determining
product prices by identifying buyer needs.
 Ensure maximum utilization of machine, materials and manpower.
 Co-ordinate with higher management & implements the policy for the
betterment of the Production department.

 Follow up and monitor the Production schedule and action plan to ensure
deadlines are met.
 Support communications and facilitate of issues resolution during bulk
production with merchandising and quality management.
 Follow SOP operational policy and procedures.
 Follow up the shipment dates/Responsible for Shipment.
10.5 Merchandising
Merchandising is the process of planning right merchandise at right time in the right
quantity and at the right price to meet the needs of the company’s target customer. The
merchandising process begins with the receipt of an order, which triggers collaboration
between the merchandiser and pattern master to calculate the required fabric
consumption. Utilizing a cost detail sheet and the buyer's specified price, the
merchandiser performs costing to determine the overall production cost. Negotiations
with the buyer further refine the pricing, leading to the placement of orders with raw
material suppliers.
Continuous monitoring of production processes is a key aspect of garment

merchandising. The merchandising department maintains close communication with
manufacturers to ensure that goods are produced according to the buyer's specific
requirements. Regular assessment of the production status is maintained through a
ledger, and the procurement of accessories, such as labels, buttons, zippers, sewing
thread, and packing materials, is coordinated from external sources, often through back-
to-back L/Cs.
The merchandising team at AUKO-TEX LTD. plays a crucial role in overseeing

production, ensuring timely delivery of shipments, and meeting customer needs. Their
constant attention to detail and effective communication with manufacturers contribute
to customer satisfaction and the successful execution of merchandising operations.

10.6 Job & Responsibilities of a Merchandiser
 Handling Buyer accounts independently starting from development to

shipment
 Monitor the production status and progress and solve the issues related.
 Ensure that the qualities are met.
 On time shipment and monitoring.
 Handle day-to-day Merchandising operations.
 Facilitate order pursuits and prepare development sample costing sheets.
 Follow customer procedures for order fulfillment.
 Communicate with suppliers for: raw materials, booking and delivery.
 Responsible for the coordination of daily operational activities in fabric, per-
production sample.
 Coordinate order placement process.
 Work with internal departments to ensure quality, production and timely
delivery of goods.
 Follow up on sample developments and production with a high degree of
personal responsibility.
 Work closely with the factories to ensure that pre-production and raw
materials are managed to meet agreed cut date to ensure the FOB date of order
is maintaining.

CHAPTER 11: CONCLUSION
The completion of industrial attachment or industrial training in the field of Textile

Technology has provided us with invaluable practical experiences that bridge the gap
between theoretical knowledge and real-world applications. This training has
significantly enhanced our understanding of textile technology and exposed us to
various industrial production processes, machinery, and management practices, making
us well-prepared for the challenges of the industrial environment.
Our industrial attachment at AUKOTEX LTD., a renowned export-oriented composite

knit garments industry, has further reinforced our perception of its excellence in
producing quality products and maintaining a strong reputation in foreign markets. The
factory boasts highly educated and technically skilled personnel who ensure flawless
production processes, supported by an efficient organizational hierarchy.
During our training period, we witnessed how AUKO-TEX LTD. meets the specific
requirements of different buyers by adhering to internationally recommended standard
methods.
Our training has encompassed a wide range of learning experiences, including

operating various machines, understanding production techniques, and familiarizing
ourselves with the management systems. We have also gained insights into the entire
production process, from merchandising to packaging, and have developed a
comprehensive understanding of the responsibilities of different departments within the
factory.
Undoubtedly, this industrial training has equipped us with valuable knowledge and
skills that will shape our future endeavors in the textile industry. We extend our
gratitude to AUKO-TEX LTD. for providing us with this enriching opportunity, and
we look forward to utilizing our training experiences to contribute to the advancement
of the textile field.

References
Book:
1) Understanding Textiles for a Merchandiser by Shah Alimujjaman

2) Technology of Textile Processing: Chemistry of dyes and principles of dyeing by
V.A. Shenai
Website:
1) https://www.auko-texgroup.com/
2) https://garmentsmerchandising.com/
3) https://textilestudycenter.com/
4) https://textilelearner.net/

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BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF TEXTILES

Course Code: WPE 414

YASIN KNITTEX IND. LTD

Md. Rasel Talukder 2018-1-3-060

We have successfully performed the industrial attachment training at AUKO-TEX

We would like to thanks AUKO-TEX GROUP LTD. Management, administration

We also acknowledge Prof. Dr. Shah Alimuzzaman, Vice Chancellor, Bangladesh

©Bangladesh University of Textiles i|Page

©Bangladesh University of Textiles ii | P a g e

CHAPTER 01: INTRODUCTION 1

CHAPTER 02: MANPOWER MANAGEMENT 8

CHAPTER 03: MACHINE DESCRIPTION 10

©Bangladesh University of Textiles iii | P a g e

CHAPTER 05: PRODUCTION PLANNING & SEQUENCES & OPERATIONS

5.2 Batching section 34

5.3 Dyeing section 37

©Bangladesh University of Textiles iv | P a g e

5.4 Dyeing (lab) section 63

5.5 Finishing section 66

©Bangladesh University of Textiles v|Page

5.6 Washing section 79

5.7 Printing section 83

5.8 Garment section 91

5.9 Cutting section 92

5.10 Sewing section 94

©Bangladesh University of Textiles vi | P a g e

5.11 Embroidery Section 99

5.12 Finishing (Garments) section 101

5.13. Research and Development (R&D) Section 103

5.14 ETP 105

5.15 WTP 110

©Bangladesh University of Textiles vii | P a g e

CHAPTER 06: QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM 112

CHAPTER 07: MAINTENANCE 116

CHAPTER 08 STORE AND INVENTORY CONTROL 118

CHAPTER 09: COST ANALYSIS 120

©Bangladesh University of Textiles viii | P a g e

CHAPTER 11: CONCLUSION 127

©Bangladesh University of Textiles ix | P a g e

Figure - 1.1: Factory Location of AUKO-TEX Group ........................................................................ 3

©Bangladesh University of Textiles x|Page

©Bangladesh University of Textiles xi | P a g e

Table - 1.1: Major Buyers of AUKO-TEX Group.................................................. 5

©Bangladesh University of Textiles xii | P a g e

1.1 Background of the Internship

©Bangladesh University of Textiles 1|Page

1.2 Overview of the Organization

Year of Establishment : 22 August 2002

Managing Director : Abdus Sobhan (CIP)

Type : 100% Export-Oriented Knit Composite Garment

Corporate Office : House-103, 1st Floor, Northern Road, DOHS Baridhara,

1.2.2 Production Capacity of YASIN KNITTEX Ind. Ltd.

©Bangladesh University of Textiles 2|Page

Figure - 1.1: Factory Location of AUKO-TEX Group

1.3 Vision & Mission

❖ Offering trend-setting knit garments to the global market.

©Bangladesh University of Textiles 3|Page

1.4 History of Development

Figure - 1.2: Historical Development Of AUKO-TEX Group