Apparel Production Planning Control AE 405

Apparel Production, Planning & Control
Class note
Engr. Md. Zahid Murad Shuva

Lecturer-SARSTEC, Directorate of Textiles
Md. Muksedul Momin

Dept. of Apparel Engineering 2nd Batch
1 Apparel Production, Planning and control
Contents
Introduction to Apparel Production Planning &Control...................................................................... 2
Difference between Production Planning & Production control *** ......................................................3
Functions of PPC *** ................................................................................................................................3
Product Life Cycle .....................................................................................................................................4
Steps in Process Planning/ Planning Process (Anyone)***** ..................................................................5
Calculation of factory capacity (in hours) in apparel industry..................................................................7
Factors influencing Effective Capacity ** ...............................................................................................10
Factors favoring over capacity & Under Capacity ..................................................................................11
Comparison between product and process layout** ............................................................................14
Cutting Room management .............................................................................................................15
Cutting Room Activities ..........................................................................................................................17
Layout Plan/Schematic diagram of a Cutting Room in Garments Floor (1st) ........................................19
Layout Plan of a Cutting Room in Garments Floor (2nd) .........................................................................20
Lay Planning & Marker Processes...........................................................................................................21
Production Management .................................................................................................................21
Individual /Make through/whole garment system ................................................................................22
Progressive bundle system .....................................................................................................................23
Unit Production system ..........................................................................................................................24
Modular Production system ...................................................................................................................25
Japanese Toyota Production System (TPS).............................................................................................26
Productivity.............................................................................................................................................27
Causes of Low Productivity* ...................................................................................................................27
Productivity Management System (PMS) ...............................................................................................30
KPI in Garments Industry ........................................................................................................................30
Line Balancing .........................................................................................................................................32
Terms used in Line Balancing .................................................................................................................33
Steps in solving line balancing ................................................................................................................34
Sewing Room Management .............................................................................................................37
Flowchart/SOP of Sewing Department...................................................................................................40
Resource & Material Management ..................................................................................................42
Inventory Management ..........................................................................................................................43
Inventory Cost ........................................................................................................................................45
MRP [Material Requirement Planning] ..................................................................................................46
Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) .......................................................................................................48
Economic Order Quantity (EOQ) ............................................................................................................49
WASTE MANAGEMENT ....................................................................................................................50
Apparel Production, Planning and Control 2
Introduction to Apparel Production

Planning &Control
Contents
1. Definition of Planning & Functions
2. Product Life cycle
3. PPC Functions: Capacity Planning & Capacity Strategy
4. Facility locations: Facility Layout, Plant location methods
5. Product & Process layout
6. Production studies, Machine utilization & Operator performance
7. Scheduling techniques
8. Forecasting techniques.
Definition ***
Production planning involves management decisions on there sources that the firm
will require for its manufacturing operations and the selection of these resources
to produce the desired goods at the appropriate time and at the least possible cost.
So Production Planning is: "The planning of industrial operations that involves the
considerations, namely, what work shall be done, how the work shall be done and
lastly, when the work shall be done.
Production control ***

Production control guides and directs flow of production so that products are
manufactured in a best way and conform to a planned schedule and are of the right
quality. Control facilitates the task of manufacturing and see that every theme goes
as per the plan.
So Production controls is: "Production control refers to ensuring that all which
occurs is in accordance with the rules/standards established and instructions
issued."
Production Planning & control ***

Production Planning and Control is concerned with directing production along the
lines set by the planning department.
Definition: "Production Planning and Control is the co-ordination of series of
functions according to a plan which will economically utilize the plant facilities and
regulate the orderly movement of goods through the entire manufacturing cycle
from the procurement of all materials to the shipping of finished goods at a
predetermined rate."
Difference between Production Planning & Production control ***

SL
Production Planning Production control
No
Production control will be in action
Production planning is a pre-
01 when production activity begins
production activity
Planning involves the collection,
maintenance, & analysis of data Control is concerned with
with respect to time standards, communication of their information &
02
materials & their specifications, producing reports like output reports,
machines & their process productivity, rejection rate etc.
capabilities.
Planning is useful to anticipate the Control involves in taking corrective
problems & devising remedial steps in case of error to match actual
03
measure in case the problem performance against the planned
arises. performance
Planning is a centralized activity &
Control is a widespread activity which
includes functions like materials
04 includes functions such as dispatching
control, tool Control, process
programming & inspection.
planning & control.
Planning sees that all the necessary Control keeps track of the activities &
05 resources are available to make the sees whether everything is going as
production at right quality & time. per schedule or not.
Functions of PPC ***

Production planning and Control department is one of the important department
for the apparel manufacturing company. In the context of the apparel
manufacturing, primary functions of the Production Planning and Control (PPC)
department has been listed following slide:
1. Job or Task Scheduling 6. Estimating quantity and
2. Material Resource Planning (Inventory) costs of production
3. Loading production 7. Capacity planning
4. Process selection & planning 8. Line planning
5. Facility location 9. Follow up & Execution
Job or Task Scheduling: Preparation of time and action (T&A) calendar for each
order from order receiving to shipment. The job schedule contains list of tasks to
be processed for the styles. Against each tasks planner mentions when to start a
task and what is dead line for that task. Name of responsible person (department)
for the job is being listed. For example, scheduling planned cut date (PCD), line
loading date etc.
Material Requirement Planning (Inventory): Preparation of Material requirement

sheet according to sample product and buyer specification sheet. Consumption of
material (fabric, thread, button, and twill tape) is calculated and estimated cost of
each material.
Loading production: Planner defines which style to be loaded to the production
line and how much quantity to be loaded.
Process Selection & Planning: Processes needed to complete an order, vary style
to style. According to the order (customer) requirement PPC department select
processes for the orders. Sometime extra processes are eliminated to reduce cost
of production.
Facility Location: Where a company has multiple factories (facilities) for
production and factories are set for specific product, planner need to identify
which facility will be most suitable for new orders. Sometimes there may be a
capacity shortage in a factory, in that case planner need to decide which facility
will selected for that orders.
Estimating Quantity And Costs Of Production: Planner estimate daily production
(units) according to the styles work content. With the estimated production figure,
production runs and manpower involvement planner also estimate production
cost per pieces
Capacity Planning: PPC department plays a major role during order booking. They
decide (suggest) how much order they should accept according to their production
capacity. Allocating of total capacity or deciding how much capacity to be used for
an order out of total factory capacity. Regularly updating factories current capacity
(production capacity).
Line Planning: Preparing detailed line planning with daily production target for the
production line. Most cases line planning is made after discussing with production
team and Industrial engineers.
Follow up and execution: Whatever plan is made is executed by PPC department.
PPC department keeps close look whether everything is progressing according the
plan. Chasing other department heads on daily basis to keep plan on track. They
update order wise completed tasks on the Time & action Calendar. When they
found something is going to be late they expedite and create an alarm about the
delay
Product Life Cycle
A product life cycle is the amount of time a product goes from being introduced
into the market until it's taken off the shelves.
There are four stages in a product's life cycle-introduction, growth, maturity, and decline.
A company often incurs higher marketing costs when introducing a product to the market
but experiences higher sales as product adoption grows.
Sales stabilize and peak when the product's adoption matures, though competition and
obsolescence may cause its decline.
Product Life Cycle Graph
Process Planning: Process planning is a preparatory step before manufacturing,

which determines the sequence of operations or processes needed to produce a
part or an assembly. This step is more important in job shops, where one-of-a-kind
products are made or the same product is made infrequently.
Steps in Process Planning/ Planning Process (Anyone)*****

Steps in Process Planning/ Planning Process (Anyone)*****
Capacity Planning
 Capacity planning is the process of determining the production capacity needed
by an organization to meet changing demand for its products.
 Design of the production system involves planning for the inputs, conversion
process and outputs of the production operation. The objectives of capacity
management is to match the level of operations to the level of demand.
 Capacity planning is to be carried out keeping in mind future growth and
expansion plans, market trends, sales forecasting etc.
 Capacity is the rate of productive capacity of a facility. Capacity is usually
expressed as volume of output per period of time.
Measurement of Capacity Planning

1. Design capacity: Designed capacity of a facility is the planned or engineered
rate of output of goods or services under normal or full scale operation
condition.
For example: the design capacity of cement plant is 150 tones per day. The
design capacity of sugar plant is 15 tons of sugar crushing per day.
2. System capacity: System capacity is maximum output of specific product or

product mix that the system of workers and machines capable of producing as
an integrated whole. System capacity is less than design capacity because of
limitation of product mix, quality specification, breakdown of equipment,
inefficiency of labour, long range uncontrollable factors.
The efficiency is expressed as ratio of actual measured output to the system
capacity: System efficiency (SE) = Actual Output/ System capacity
3. Installed capacity: the capacity provided at the time of installation of the plant
is called installed capacity.
4. Rated capacity: Capacity based on the highest production rate established by
actual trails is referred to as rated capacity.
Calculation of factory capacity (in hours) in apparel industry

Check how many machines factory has and how many hours factory runs in a day.
For example, suppose,
Total number of machines = 200,
Shift hours per day = 10 hours
So total factory capacity (in hours) = 200 X 10 hours = 2000 hours
Capacity in Hours X 60
Production capacity (in pieces) = X Line Efficiency
Production SAM
Problem-01: Suppose a factory has 8 sewing lines and each line has 25 machines.
Total 200 machines and the working shift is 10 hours per day. Total factory capacity
per day is 2000 hours (200 machines * 10 hours). If factory is producing only one
style (Shirt) of SAM 25 minutes and used all 200 machines daily production capacity
at 50%. Calculate production capacity in pieces.
Capacity in Hours X 60
Production capacity (in pieces) = X Line Efficiency
Production SAM
2000 X 60 50
= ×
25 100
= 2400 pcs (Ans.)
Problem-02: Lets say Urmi garments has 20 operators who work 8 hours a day.
The plant has 90% efficiency level. Working shift is 8 hours a day in which 1 hour is
mainly for lunch and tea time break. Find out potential capacity for next 10 days?
Soln:
20 operator X 7 hrs/day = 140hrs/day X 90% efficiency
=126 potential production hrs/day
Then Potential capacity for 10 days = 10 days X 126 hrs
= 1260 hrs potential capacity. (Ans.)
Problem- 03: Let's say Urmi garments company as 10 operators who work 8 hours
a day. The plant has 90% efficiency level. A buyer placed order for 6000 units of
style "a" that needs to be delivered in 10 days. The plant already has a committed
capacity of 300 hours for the 10 days period. Working shift is 8 hours a day in which
1 hour is mainly for lunch and tea time break.
It was established that style" a" has a production time of 5 SAM the order of 6000
units require 30,000 SAM (500 hours).
What factors should be considered in deciding whether to accept the order or
refuse?
What is the potential capacity of Urmi garments company for the 10 working days?
Ans: 10 machines X 7 hours/day = 70 hours/day x 90% efficiency
= 63 potential production hours/day
Potential capacity for 10 days = 10 days x 63 hours
= 630 hours potential capacity
What is required capacity for the 6000 unit order?
Ans: 5 SAM/unit x 6000 units = 30,000 SAM or 500 SAH to complete the order.
Capacity Required = 500 hours
What is available capacity in the plant currently?
Ans: Available capacity = potential capacity − committed capacity
Available capacity = 630 hours − 300 hours = 330 hours available
Is available capacity adequate to accept the order?

Ans: 330 hours of available capacity-500 hours of required capacity = -170 hours
Capacity is not sufficient to accept order.
Production Planning: A successful production planning requires knowledge of two
variables to determine the time required for manufacturing a contract/ an order.
1. Load - How much work we are putting on a section.
2. Capacity - How much work a section is capable of completing.
In an ideal situation, Load = Capacity

Load = Order or Contract Size x Work Content
 Contract size = Order Qty
 Work Content = Total SMV of a garment
 SMV = Standard Minute value
Capacity = Actual Minutes (Available)
= No. of m/c operators X working minutes X efficiency X attendance %
Problem- 04: Tommy Hilfiger placed an order of 5000 pcs garments at Kenpark
Bangladesh. Details are given below:
Data
Operators 25
Shift (working Minute) 1 X 8 hrs X 60 = 480 min
Efficiency 65%
Absenteeism 5%
SMV 20.10
Sales order/Contract size (QTY) 5000 pcs
Calculate the load & capacity of above order.
Load = Order or Contract Size X Work Content
= QTY X Total SMV
= 5000 X 20.10
= (Ans.)
Capacity = Actual Minutes (Available)
= No. of operators X working minutes X efficiency X attendance %
= 25 x (8x60) x 0.65 x 0.95
= (Ans.)
Problem-05: VF Asia placed an order of 40,000 pcs garments at Envoy Group
Bangladesh. Details are given below:
Data
Operators 52
Shift (working Minute) 1 X 8 hrs X 60 = 480 min
Efficiency 71%
Absenteeism 4%
SMV 26.20
Sales order/Contract size (QTY) 40,000 pcs
Calculate the load & capacity of above order.
Problem-06
A. Calculate the average weekly load of
Style Name Order SMV/ total 13 weeks lead time.
Qty gmt B. If the factory's operators 80, has 4%
Hero Boys 10,000 42 absent, work a 40 hrs/week, has
R&R 8,000 30 efficiency of 85% what is the weekly
Lee 24,000 20 capacity?
Wrangler 12,000 65 C. Has the factory sufficient capacity to
Solution meet the plan?
Style Name Order Qty SMV/gmt Total SMV

Hero Boys 10,000 42 420000
R&R 8,000 30 240000
Lee 24,000 20 480000
Wrangler 12,000 65 780000
Total 54000 1920000
A. Average Weekly load = Total SMV/no. of Week

= 19,20,000 SMV/13
= 147692
B. Weekly Capacity = No. of operators x working minutes x efficiency x attendance %
= 80 X (40X60) X 0.85 X 0.96
= 156672
C. Yes
As Load < Capacity
Hence, We can say, the factory has sufficient capacity to meet the plan.
Factors influencing Effective Capacity **

1. Forecasting demand: Demand forecasting is going to influence the capacity
plan in significant way. As it is very difficult to forecast the demand with
accuracy s it changes significantly with the product life-cycle stage, number of
product.
2. Plant and labour efficiency: It is difficult to attain 100 percent efficiency of plant
and equipment. The efficiency is less than 100 percent due to breakdown,
delays due to scheduling and other reasons. The plant efficiency varies from
equipment to equipment and from organization to organization. The labour
efficiency contributes to the overall capacity efficiency.
3. Subcontracting: Subcontracting refers to off loading, some of jobs to outside

vendors this hiring the capacity to meet the requirements of the organization.
A careful analysis as to whether to make or buy should be done.
4. Multiple shift operation: multiple shift are going to enhance the firms capacity
utilization. But in the third shift the rejection rate is higher. Specially for process
industry where investment is very high it is recommended to have a multiple
shift.
5. Management Policy: The management policy with regards to subcontracting,
multiple shifts, which work station or departments to be run for third shift,
machine replacement policy, etc. are going to affect the capacity planning.
Factors favoring over capacity & Under Capacity

The over capacity is preferred when
 A fixed cost of the capacity is not The under capacity is preferred when:
very high.  The time to build capacity is short
 Subcontracting is not possible  Shortage of products does not
because of secrecy of design and/or affect the company (lost sale can be
quality requirement. compensated)
 The time required to add capacity is  The technology changes fast i.e. The
long. rate of obsolescence of plant and
 The company cannot effort to miss equipment
the delivery, and cannot afford the  The cost of creating capacity is
loose the customer. prohibitively high.
 There is a economic capacity size
below which it is not economical to
operate the plant.
Plant/Facility Layout Definition: Plant Layout is a plan of an optimum
arrangement of facilities including personnel, operating equipment, storage space,
material handling equipment and all other supporting services along with the
design of best structure to contain all these facilities.
Objectives/ purpose of Plant/Facility Layout

The primary goal of the plant layout is to maximize the profit by arrangement of all
the plant facilities to the best advantage of total manufacturing of the product. The
objectives / purpose of plant layout are:
1. Streamline the flow of materials through the plant
2. Facilitate the manufacturing process
3. Maintain high turnover of in process inventory
4. Minimize materials handling
5. Effective utilization of men, equipment and space.

6. Make effective utilization of cubic space
7. Flexibility of manufacturing, operations and arrangements
8. Provide for employee convenience, safety and comfort.
Factors influencing Plant Layout

1. Type of production- Engineering industry, process industry
2. Production System- Job shop, batch production, mass production
3. Scale of production
4. Availability of the total area
5. Arrangement of material handling system
6. Type of building - single storeyd or multi storyed
7. Future expansion plan
8. Type of production facilities - dedicated or general purpose
Types of Plant Layout/ Facility Design

1. Functional Layout (Process layout)
2. Product Layout (Line Layout)
3. Combination Layout
4. Fixed position Layout
5. Group Layout
1. Functional Layout (Process layout): This layout recommended for batch
production. All machines performing similar of operations are grouped at one
location in the process layout. E.g. all lathes, milling machine etc. are grouped
in the shop will be clustered in like groups.
Thus in process layout the arrangement of facilities are grouped together
according to their functions. A typical process layout is shown in following fig.
Process layouts that group resources based on similar processes or functions.
2. Product Layout (Line Layout): In this type of layout, the machines are
arranged in the sequence as required by the product. If the volume of
production of one or more products is large, the facilities can be arranged to
achieve efficient flow of materials and lower cost per unit. Special purpose
machines are used which perform the required function quickly and reliably.
The equipment is closely placed along with the sequence in which the item is
processed.
The product type layout is shown in following fig:
Turning Milling Drilling Package

Assembly Inspection
Operation Operation Operation dispatch
Product or Line layout
Workstation 1 Workstation 2 Workstation 3 Workstation 4

U-shape Layout
Comparison between product and process layout**

Factors Product layout Process layout
Nature Sequence of facilities Similar are group together
Machines utilization Not to full capacity Better utilization
Product Standardized diversified
Processing time Less more
Material handling less more
Inventory High work-in-process Low work-in-process
inventory inventory
Breakdown Can't tolerate Can tolerate
Production centre simple complex
Flexibility low high
Floor space Requires less more
Investment high low
Plant Location
Plant location means the establishment of an industry at a particular place.
Plant location refers to the choice of region and the selection of a particular site
for setting up a business or factory.
But the choice is made only after considering cost and benefits of different
alternative sites. It is a strategic decision that cannot be changed easily once taken
Plant Location Types: It is of 2 types:

1. Localized or centralized Plant Location: It means concentration of similar type
of industries at some particular place, e.g. textile in Savar/Gazipur.
2. Delocalized or decentralized Plant Location: It means spreading of similar type
of industries at different places, e.g. banking industries.
Plant Location- Selection.

Selection of location is the key-decision for making large investment in building
plant and machinery.
It is not advisable or not possible to change the location very often. So an improper
location of plant may lead to waste of all the investments made in building and
machinery, equipment.
The plant location should be based on:
 Company's expansion plan and policy,
 Diversification plan for the products,
 Changing market conditions,
 External (social, political, environmental, etc.) factors that influence the choice
of the location decision.
Factors Influencing Plant Location
Cutting Room management

Contents
1. Production Process in Cutting Room
2. Internal & External Cost
3. Cut Order Planning
4. Laying Up Techniques & Procedures
5. Cutting Techniques and Equipment
6. Sorting & Bundling
7. Control of Fabric usage
8. Cutting Instruction & Material Reconciliation
Cutting Process Flow Chart

Cutting Room Activities

1. Pattern /Marker: According to the design and fit, patterns of different garment
parts are made on the pattern paper and cut into pattern pieces. For manual
marker these pattern pieces are used for marker making. On the other hand in
CAD system patterns are made in computer. Later using a plotter markers are
made on sheet. In the second case cutting department receive marker.
2. Cut Into ratio: Prior to cutting, cutting dept get a job sheet from planning
department or merchandiser or production manager that includes total
quantity of garments pieces to be cut, size ratio of the garments and color wise
size breakup. According to the size and color ratio cutting team prepare one
marker or multiple markers. Marker length and number of lay to be cut are
planned in this stage.
3. Fabric Receiving: Fabric requirement for an order is calculated according to the
average consumption of the fabric from the marker. In case of multiple color
order, color wise requirement is made. Fabric department issue fabric to cutting
against the fabric requirement (Generally requisition slip is used)
4. Fabric Relaxation: This process is optional. Specially used for knits fabric. During
rolling of fabric it get stretched. So it is essential to bring the fabric on stable
form otherwise garment would shrink after making. To relax the fabric roll or
than is opened and spread and kept for about 24 hours.
5. Spreading (Fabric layering): In this stage fabric sheet is layered one above
another maintaining pre-defined marker length and correct ply tension. Fabric
is layered up to a certain height to avoid cutting quality problem. Spreading is
done by manual layering or automatic layering machine can be used. During
layering of the fabric, fabric edge is aligned at one side.
6. Marker Making: After layering of a lay, pre made paper patterns (or ready
markers made by plotter) are placed on the top layer of the lay. In manual
marker making marking is done around each pattern shape different cutting
method /machine are selected.
7. Cutting: Lay is cut following the marked lines on the top of the lay. Cutting is
done using straight knife or other cutting means. In cutting process garment
component are separated. On the basis of pattern shape different cutting
method/machine are selected.

Cutting Room inspection factors

Cutting inspection / Defects which must be checked:
 Frayed edge  Pattern Precision
 Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges  Notches & drillers
 Ply to ply fusion  Cutting equipment precision
 Single edge fusion
Number Cut Components: During numbering, every component is given a
sequential number. This corresponds to the number of the fabric ply from which
the component was previously cut. In the ongoing sewing process, components
with one sequence number are joined in one article. Numbering helps to eliminate
accidental mismatching of components and joining components with different
color shades in one article.
Sorting & Bundling: It is necessary to check numbering, sorting and bundling is
done accurately.
Defects
1. Not stacked in numerical order: Bundle numbers not in order on rack skid or box.
2. Matching Linings: Wrong or wrong material.
Placement of manual spreading and cutting

equipment/Workstations in the cutting room
Spreading and cutting operations are performed on a spreading table to minimize
the movement of the prepared spreads. In cutting rooms with a small capacity, the
fabric is spread and cut on the same table surface by the same workers using
movable cutting machines with straight or round knives. In larger cutting rooms,
longer spreading tables are used. Their surfaces are divided into separate zones for
spreading and cutting. A spread is laid at the beginning of the table and then
transferred to the cutting zone where cutting operators continue the work. When
the first zone is free, the next spreading process is performed.
If a band knife machine is also used (for cutting components with a complex shape)
it is placed at the end of the spreading table. The blocks of roughly cut small
components (cut by movable machines) are transferred along the surface of the
spreading table to the work surface of the band knife machine for further fine
cutting. Due to an initial layer of firm paper with a slippery surface which is spread
under the fabric plies, the fabric spread or its cut parts may be moved along the
table surface with minimum deformation of the plies.
Layout Plan/Schematic diagram of a Cutting Room in Garments Floor

(1st)
1
Fig: Layout plan of a Cutting Room in a Garments Floor
Role of a Cutting Room Manager

A cutting room manager is responsible for managing the cutting up to fabric, ready
to make into apparel.
 Receipting, verification and correcting  Identification of remnant cloth from laid
storage of fabric issued from the fabric pieces, sufficient to be recalled in the event
stores. of components needing to be recut, or
 Authorizing and supervision of laying pieces needing to be identified at a later
up, and the inspection of fabric during phase of the manufacturing process,
this process. thereby ensuring traceability.
 Ensuring that any fabric in the cutting  Supervising of lay number identification,
room that is found to be unacceptable ticketing and bundling.
is identified as such and returned to  Issuing of cut work to the production floor.
the Fabric Stores.  Supervision and strict maintenance of
 Authorizing and implementation of good housekeeping policies and procedure
accurate and efficient cutting of fabric  Shall accept instruction to undertake any
lays in accordance with prescribed other duty or responsibility as instructed
procedures. by a Senior Person.
Layout Plan of a Cutting Room in Garments Floor (2nd)
2
Lay Planning & Marker Processes

When all the necessary data about the textile materials delivered to the cutting
room have been obtained, lay planning and marker making processes may be
performed. The process of lay planning is important because it determines further
work processes in the cutting room. Several factors that influence productivity and
work efficiency in the cutting room are taken into account in performing the lay
planning process. The most important of these are:
 The number of articles ordered for each size of a style.
 The optimum use of the fabric to minimize any fabric wastage.
 The technological limits of the spreading and cutting processes.
 The optimum use of time and labour.
To organize an efficient work process in a cutting room, two or more garments'
sizes are typically combined in every marker, the number of fabric plies (or layers)
in every spread and the number of spreads needed for the markers required are
determined.
In accordance with the customers specification, markers for all ordered pieces,
sizes and quantities required are created. Taking into account fabric quality, type
of pattern (e.g. Striped, check etc.) and style, the pattern pieces are placed in the
marker in the right position and as close to each other as possible to obtain the
most efficient use of the fabric. Now a days marker making is often automated.
Special nesting software allows creation of a marker on a computer screen and
makes the work process quicker and easier by allowing the user to reconfigure the
arrangement of pattern pieces to get the best arrangement of the marker. Markers
can be also created automatically using the right software.
Production Management
Production System: Production is defined as a process or procedure to transform
a set of input into output having the desired utility & quality. Production is a value
adding process.
Input Transformation Output
 Men
 Machine Goods & Service
Control Subsystem
 Material
 Money
 Management
 Information
 Energy
Apparel Production System

 Apparel Production system is a way how garment raw materials (Fabrics, trims
& accessories etc.) is being converted into apparel through a manufacturing
process.
 An apparel production system is an integration of material handling, production
processes, personnel and equipment that directs workflow and generates
finished production
 The choice of apparel production system depend on the product, the policy of
the company & the capacity of manpower.
Individual /Make through/whole garment system

 This is essentially the traditional method of production. Whereby the entire
garments is assembled by one operator.
 With this production system the operator would be given a bundle of cut work
and would proceed to sew it according to his or her own method of work, of
necessity.
 The labors required by this system must be highly skilled & Versatile
 A typical application would be in the sewing room of a boutique which
produces its own merchandise.
 Whole garments production system are two types.
i. complete whole garment ii. Departmental whole garments
 In the whole garment system one individual makes the entire garments from
cutting the cloth to sewing & pressing the garments.
 The garments is ready for dispatch once the operator completes the final
operations.
 This type of system is used in a few placed which are engaged in custom
wholesale.
 Custom made & exclusively made for particular customer.
 Limited edition
 The departmental whole garments system in which one individual does all the
work with the equipment allocated to a department.
 For example, one person does all the cutting work in cutting department,
Second person does all the work in sewing department & third person does
processing & packing work.
 The worker in this system may use more than one equipment to complete their
respective job.
Advantage of Individual /Make through/whole garment system

 This system is more effective in extremely small quantities.
 The operators will do with full involvement to finish more pieces, to earn more
money.
 Operators will be specialized in his own working area.
 As the pay depends upon the complication of the operation, the operators will
try to finish the complicated operation also without any difficulties
 The work in process is reduced and the amount of inventory is reduced.
Disadvantage of Individual /Make through/whole garment system

 Highly skilled labors are used so the cost of labor is high.
 The operators is more concerned on the number of pieces finished rather than
the quality of the work.
 Productivity is less due to lack of specifications.
Progressive bundle system

Also called material handling system
Features:
1. As name implies the bundle of garments parts move from operation to
operation.
2. Traditional production system
3. Widely used by apparel manufacturers for several decades & still today.
4. According to The Technical Advisory committee of "AAMA-(1993) reports 80%
apparel manufacturers use the bundle system (PBS)
PBS Work Flow

 Bundles consisting of apparel parts needed to complete a specific operation
(e.g. operation bundle for pocket setting might include shirt fronts & Pockets to
be stitched together.
 Some firms operate with a standard bundle size, while other vary bundle sizes
according to size of pieces in bundle and operation to be completed.
 Bundles are assembled in the cutting room, where cut parts are matched up
with corresponding parts and bundle tickets.
 Workers (Labors) transport and move Bundles of cut parts to sewing room via
trollies.
 Operator scheduled to complete the operation and perform same operation on
all pieces in the bundle, create the bundle, remove the bundle ticket & move
bundle for next operation.
Advantage of PBS
 Labor of all levels such as unskilled, skilled, semi-skilled labors are involved.
Small simple operation.
 Quality of each operation is checked during every single operation thus quality
is good.
 Due to bundle system, less chance of mixing up of parts. Thus less confusion.
 Bundle tracking is possible, so identifying and solving problems become easy.
 Effective production control system and quality control system.
Disadvantage of PBS
 Time consuming due to assembling, moving and untightening the bundles.
 More labor hence more labor cost.
 Needs efficient supervisor.
 Labor absentees can effect production due to incompletion of contracts.
 Variety of styles and less quantity is not effective in this system.
 Proper planning is required for each style, each batch.
 Improper planning causes labor turnover, poor quality, less production etc.
Unit Production system

 A unit production system is a type of layout that uses an overhead transporter
system to move garment components from work station to work station for
assembly.
 ln UPS, there are hangers. One hanger have multiple clips containing all parts of
the single garment.
 All parts for the single garment are advanced through stitching line together by
means of hanging carrier that moves along an overhead conveyor.
 Hanging carrier can be moved manually by the operator using button after
completion of single operation or by computerized system that move the
conveyor after a specific fed throughput time.
Advantage of Unit Production system

 Bundle handling completely eliminated.
 The time involved in the pick-up and disposal is reduced to minimum.
 Output is automatically recorded, eliminates the operator to register the work.
 The computerized system automatically balance the work between stations.
 Improved lead times-less work in process.
 Improved space utilization (More machines can be adjusted)
 Increased Productivity
 Throughput time can be drastically reduced.
 Indirect labor costs are reduced (by elimination of bundle handling and
requiring fewer supervisors.
 Improved production & quality.
Disadvantage of Unit Production system

 Unit production system requires high investment.
 Proper Planning is required to be effective.
 Highly expensive buying equipment & cost of installing.
 Specialized training for the system.
Modular Production system

 A Modular production system is a contained, manageable, work unit that
includes an empowered work team, equipment and work to be executed.
 The number of teams in a plant varies with the size and needs of the firm and
product line.
 Usually there are 4-15 labors in one team depending upon the type of garment
to be stitched and skills of labor.
 Team may be used to perform all the operations (Whole garments production)
or certain portion of assembly operators.
 Team is responsible for maintaining a smooth work flow, meeting production
goals, quality level.
 Team members develop an interdependency to improve the process &
accomplish their goals.
 A worker in a team can perform multiple functions depending upon his skills
(Multi skills)
Advantage of Modular Disadvantage of Modular Production

Production system system
 High flexibility  A high capital investment in equipment.
 Fast through put times.  High investment in initial training
 Low wastages  No compatibility between team members can
 Reduced absenteeism cause problems thus loss in production.
 Empowered employees  Dependency on the team for whole
 Improved quality production.
Japanese Toyota Production System (TPS)

"A production system based on the philosophy of achieving the complete
elimination of all waste in pursuit of the most efficient methods"
The Toyota Production System (TPS) is an integrated Socio-Technical System,

developed by Toyota, that comprises its management philosophy and practices.
The TPS is a Management System that organizes manufacturing and logistics for
the automobile manufacturer, including interaction with suppliers and customers.
The system is a major precursor of the more generic "Lean Manufacturing". Taiichi
Ohno and Eiji Toyoda, Japanese industrial engineers, developed the system
between 1948 and 1975.
Originally called "just-in-time production", it builds on the approach created by the
founder of Toyota, Sakichi Toyoda, his son Kiichiro Toyoda, and the engineer Taiichi
Ohno. The principles underlying the TPS are embodied in The Toyota Way.
   Assignment   
1. Write the differences between PBS & UPS
2. Which Production System is mostly used in Bangladesh Garments industries?
Briefly describe the process work flow with a layout diagram.
Productivity
"Productivity in simple words is a relationship between output and input”
The ILO publication “Higher Productivity in Manufacturing Industries “has defined
'Productivity as the ratio between output of wealth and input of resources used in
the Process of production.'
𝑶𝒖𝒕𝒑𝒖𝒕 [𝑾𝒆𝒂𝒍𝒕𝒉]
Productivity can be calculated as, Productivity =
𝑰𝒏𝒑𝒖𝒕 [𝑹𝒆𝒔𝒐𝒖𝒓𝒄𝒆𝒔]
Why Does Apparel industry face Productivity problems?*

1. No widespread recognition of productivity's importance in apparel industry.
2. No easy means for measuring productivity due to style variety, lack of product
continuity, absence of commonly accepted standards.
3. Apparel industries emphasis on total production and costs often obscures
importance of individual operator productivity (Output per Man-Hour)
4. Continuing progress for productivity improvement are rare in the apparel
industry.
5. Cost of more productive technology difficult to accept (Or sometimes absorb )
for many apparel manufacturers.
6. Firms don't know "how to get started"
7. The productivity issue highlights the labor-management adversary position.
8. Business and labors need help in planning for productivity.
9. Rising indirect labor cost
10.Govt. regulations require increasing amount of compliance, filling out forms etc.
Causes of Low Productivity*

A. Defects in design or specifications of product
1. Bad design of product prevents use of most economic process.
2. Lack of standardization prevents use of high production process.
3. Incorrect Quality standard
4. Design demands removal of excess material.
B. Inefficient methods of manufacturing or operations

1. wrong machine used
2. Process not operative or in bad condition.
3. wrong tools used.
4. Bad layout causing wasted movement
5. Operative's bad working methods.
C. Managerial Inefficiencies
1. Excessive product variety adds idle time due to short runs
2. Lack of standardization adds idle time due to short runs
3. Design changes add ineffective time due to stoppages and rework.
4. Bad planning of work and orders add idle time of men and machines
5. Lack of raw materials due to bad planning adds idle time of men and
machines
6. Plant breakdowns add idle time of men and machines.
7. Plant in bad condition adds ineffective time.
8. Bad working conditions add ineffective time through forcing workers to rest.
9. Accidents add ineffective time through stoppages and rework.
10.Bad industrial relations resulting in strikes/lockout
D. Workers Inefficiencies
1. Absence, lateness and idleness add ineffective time.
2. careless workmanship adds ineffective time due to scrap and rework
3. Accidents add ineffective time through stoppages and absence
4. Bad industrial relations resulting in strikes / lockout.
Ways to improve/Boost productivity **

1. Improve basic process by research & Development.
2. Improve existing and provide better plant & equipment.
3. Simplify the product, reduce & standardize the range.
4. Improve existing methods of plant operation.
5. Improve the planning of work and the use of manpower.
6. Increase the effectiveness of all employees
7. Incentive scheme for operations
8. Quality system implementation
9. Strengthen production planning and control.
10.HRD initiatives
11.Use of work-aids and attachments
12.Use of better quality fabric
13.Improvement in cutting quality.
14.Productivity monitoring.
Strategy for Productivity Improvement: Phase-1
Introduce productivity measurement

system
Setup operators selection & Training

procedures
Strengthen work measurement &

methods improvement.
Initiate supervision & Managers

Training
Strategy for Productivity Improvement: Phase-2

Introduce information system for
productivity improvement
Introduce incentive scheme
Strengthen production planning &

Scheduling
Strategic technology up gradation
Improve worker involvement & working

condition

Productivity Management System (PMS)

Work station production data
capture
Outputs
Generation of productivity
Inputs Productivity reports for
reports (operation section,
Garment analysis sheet benchmarking with similar
line, floor)
Line planning & worker product manufactures &
Allocation Communicate performance other apparel product
(physical units & % efficiency) manufactures
Review performance & plan
improvement
Enabling Practices
Work study for all task
Communication of time standards to work force
Hourly production data collection
KPI in Garments Industry

 The Garment Industry KPI's is a collection of data driven charts and diagrams
designed for garment manufacturers. The Key Performance Indicators (KPIs)
are measurable values which show the performance of any garment industry.
 The Factories use various KPIs that demonstrate factors that give an idea related
to how effectively factories uses its resources. In this way, evaluation of KPIs at
multiple levels where management needs to reach target.
 This is the era of competition and we have to survive with a global challenge in
the Garment Industry. If you carefully work with Key points that are KPI Factors
of Garments then surely Garments business will flourish. The management team
should focus on KPI for their industry growth. KPI report will help you to look
into the actual condition of your garments and what quality it is achieving in
their garment industries.
Relation between KPI and other factors

Relation between Sewing Section KPI and Production
Line wise efficiency ⬆ Production ⬆ Relation between Cutting Section

KPI and Production
Defects per hundred unit ⬆ Production ⬇ Cutting
⬆ Production ⬆
Operation efficiency ⬆ Production ⬆ efficiency
Cutting
Machine trouble / ⬆ Production ⬆
machine downtime ⬆ Production ⬇ production
Defects per
Idle time per machine ⬆ Production ⬇ hundred unit ⬆ Production ⬇
(DHU)
No. of style change ⬆ Production ⬇ Cutting delay ⬆ Production ⬇
Production/hour/machine
or manpower ratio ⬆ Production ⬆ Input delay ⬆ Production ⬇
Operation turnover rate ⬆ Production ⬆
Absenteeism ⬆ Production ⬇

List of KPI used in Apparel Production

Quality related KPI's Sewing related KPI's Cutting related KPI's
Factor Efficiency
Line wise sewing efficiency Marker efficiency
percentage
CPM cost manpower to machine ratio Cutting production
NPT Absenteeism DHU in cutting
Cutting delay/Input delay
Cut to ship ratio DHU in sewing
to sewing line
DHU % No. of style change Fabric utilization
RFT Idle time in machine sewing
AQL, On time
delivery
Line Balancing
The Line balancing is to Design a smooth
production flow by allotting processes to
worker so as to allow each worker to
complete the implied workload within an
even time.
Objectives of Line Balancing*

1. Manage the work loads among assemblers
2. Recognize the location of Bottleneck.
3. Decide no. of workstation
4. Decrease Production Cost.
5. Assigning task to each work station in such a way that there is little idle time.
6. Agreed quality maintenance of the garments
7. Reduce maintenance costs
8. Maximum outputs at the desired time.
9. Regular/Smooth Material flow
10.Maximum usage of manpower and machine capacity.
Terms used in Line Balancing

Cycle Time: Maximum amount of time allowed at each work station. This can be
found by dividing required units to production time available per day. This is the
time expressed in minutes between two simultaneous products coming of the end
of production line. Gaither & Fraizre (2001) described that cycle time demonstrates
how often the production line can generate the product with current resources &
staffing. It is a precise indicator to signify how the line is currently set up to run.
The calculation of cycle time takes into consideration of the entire production
quantities. If multiple lines are producing the same product, then the composite
cycle time is less than the actual lapse time of any individual line.
Lead Time: Summation of production times along the assembly line. (Read details
from Internet)
Idle Time: A period when system is not used but is available.
Work Station: A physical area where a worker with tools/one or more m/c or
unattended m/c's such as robot perform specific task in a production line (Gaither
& Fraizer 2001)
Downtime: Downtime explained as the time that is non value added.
Transportation: Any movement in factory can be considered as waste. Double
handling & excessive movements are likely to cause damage & deterioration with
the distance of communication between processes proportional to time taken. It
takes to feedback reports of poor quality & needs corrective action.
Unnecessary Inventory: There is a problem with extra inventory. Inventory will
increase the lead time, preventing quick identification of problems and increasing
space. Significant storage costs are wasted which absolutely lower the
competitiveness of the organization of value stream.
Work in Process: WIP is made up of all garments & Their parts that are not
completely finished yet. OR Work in process refers to the number of gmts that are
under production at any given time. Throughput conversion from materials to
finished goods garments are at different stages of completion but all are
considered WIP.
* Ques 1: What does it mean by having high WIP?? What impact does it create
on cut flow???
* Ques 2: How can we manage WIP?
Work Flow: work flow is the movement of materials & gmts parts through the
conversion process.
* Ques: How do work flow reduce during production??
Balancing: The process of planning a smooth workflow with a steady supply of

work for each operation.
Buffer: A planned backlog of work that is available for processing for each
operation.
Bottleneck: Delay in Transmission that slow down the production rate. This can be
overcome by balancing the line. OR
Constraint to throughput that limits the volume of work that can be completed in
a workday. Once a bottleneck is determined, engineers study the operation to
determine whether it can feasibly be improved. It may mean operating during
breaks & lunch times, adjusting routings using other methods, scheduling the
operation for a second shift. Buying an additional m/c or changing to new
technology for the operation.
Steps in solving line balancing

There are four steps in solving line balancing described by G. Andrew (2006)
1. Drawing Precedence Diagram: Precedence diagram needs to be drawn to
demonstrate a relationship between workstations. Certain process begins
when previous process was done.
2. Determining cycle time: Cycle time is longest time allowed at each station. This
can be expressed by this formula.
Cycle time = Available time / Desired Output
3. This means the products needs to leave the workstations before it reaches its
cycle time.
4. Assigning tasks to workstation: The tasks distributions should be taken after
completing a time cycle. Its good to allocate tasks to workstation in the order
of longest task times.

LB of a T-shirt /Operation breakdown of a t-shirt

Sequ M/C Type SMV Total
ence Description
M/C Man M/C Man SMV
No.
Front & Back part helper
1 0.45 0.45
matching
Shoulder join
2 4T O/L 0.46 0.46
both side
3 Neck Rib make S/N 0.16 0.16
4 Neck join 4T O/L 0.24 0.24
Sleeve matching
5 helper 0.45 0.45
with body
4T O/L
6 Sleeve join 0.76 0.76
or F/A
4T O/L
7 Sleeve hem 0.40 0.40
or F/A
8 Side Seam 4T O/L 0.90 0.90
4T O/L
9 Body hem 0.50 0.50
F/L
10 Label attach S/N L/S 0.60 0.60
11 Thread cut helper 0.70 0.70
Total 5.62 min
4T O/L = 4 thread overlock F/L = Flat lock S/N L/S = Single needle Lock stitch
SMV = Standard minute value
Sewing Room Management
Sewing: Sewing is the process of

fastening or attaching two parts of
fabric using stitches made with a
needle and thread. It is one of the
basic steps of the apparel
manufacturing process. Sewing
section is the most important
department of the the garment
manufacturing industry.
Sewing Room Management in the Apparel industry is a very important factor. Sewing is a craft
that involves stitching fabrics or other materials together by using a needle and thread by hand
or with a machine. After receiving the cut garment parts from the cutting section, they are sewn
sequentially to make a garment.
Factors need to check before going for bulk Production

Some pre-required factors are checked before going to bulk production. They are:

Basic Sequence of Sewing floor Management

Garment analysis
⬇
Target set up for production (on the basis of ship schedule)
⬇
Machine layout
⬇
Operator layout
⬇
Quality control of product
⬇
Line balancing
⬇
Line setup
⬇
Process distribution
⬇
Parts received from cutting dept.
⬇
Parts storing
⬇
Parts distribution to the operator and helper
⬇
Position mark to components where required
⬇
Parts making (individual)
⬇
Inline quality checking
⬇
Parts assembling
⬇
Inline quality audit
⬇
Output counting & checked with the target
⬇
End line quality audit
Quality Assurance Organogram of sewing floor:

GM
Sr. Officer/ Officer
Quality Assurance
Quality Assurance
Manager
Quality
Quality Assurance
Controller
Asst. / Deputy Manager Quality Supervisor /

Quality Assurance Inspector
Quality Assurance Organogram of sewing floor
GM
Quality
Assurance
Manager
Quality Assurance
Asst. / Deputy Manager

Quality Assurance
Sr. Officer/ Officer

Quality Assurance
Quality Controller
Quality Supervisor / Inspector
Flowchart/SOP of Sewing Department

The flow chart of the sewing floor is below step by step:
Flowchart/SOP of Sewing Department

1. Preproduction report:
 Approved BOM (Bill of material) sheet.  Approved operation chart.
 Approved trim card.  Approved measurement sheet.
 Approved sample.
2. Cutting Quality:
Cut panel measurement check, 3-pcs sticker match (due to shade), and shrinkage report.
3. Item confirmation:
Fabric composition, trims card check, embellishment check, and visual inspection.
4. Input check (Input)

 Bundle check.
 Sample.
 Cut panel measurement check.
 Operation chart.
 BOM.
 Measurement chart.
 Trim card.
5. Layout: Garments layout and set-up process mock-up as per buyer requirement.
6. In-process Quality control:

Every hour check the 7-pcs inline process which affects on traffic light board.
7. Styling process checking in List color-wise:

Check every process and also check all accessories which match with a trim card.
8. 1st production report:

Measurement check, styling check, Accessories check, and check all kinds of tests.
9 & 10. End table hourly report & End table Measurement report:
1.5 AQL audit. Here if the lot is accepted, send it to the finishing. If a lot failed, it would
recheck and re-audit.
Register & Reports used in Store

 Needle Change register
 Different types needle balance register
 In House fabric Inspection report (4 Point system)
 Fabric Shade report
 Accessories Inspection Report
 Shrinkage test Report
 Fabric receive packing List
 Button issue register
Md. Muksedul Momin
Dept. of Apparel Engineering SKTEC 2nd batch
Needle Issued for different Machines from Store

Machine Type Needle Type Needle Size
Plain Sewing M/C DB x 1 11
Button hole & 2N M/C DP x 5 11, 16, 14
BTN stitch and Bar tack M/C DP-7 14
Chain Stitch M/C TV-7 11, 14, 16
Feed Off The Arm M/C TV-64 11, 14, 16
Overclock M/C DC-1 9, 11,14, 16
Resource & Material Management

Contents....
1. Definition & Purpose of Material Management
2. Inventory System & Inventory Cost 8. Advantage and Disadvantage of MRP
3. Storage of Materials 9. Demands for Products
4. Record system of store management 10. BOM Files, Inventory Records file
5. Inspection, costing, pricing 11. Economic order quantity (EOQ)
6. Principles of purchasing 12. Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP)
7. Material Requirement Planning (MRP) System 13. Management of Quality and Quality assurance.
Material management is the process of planning, organizing, directing and controlling the flow
of materials within an organization.
Quotation Contracting
Estimation Inspection
Recycle Material Management

Delivery
Flow diagram
Waste Procurement
Consumption Storage
Objectives/Purposes of Material Management
Right Price & High Turnover Forecasting
Secondary Objectives/Purposes
Primary Objectives/Purposes
Good Supplier Relation Inter departmental Harmony
Low Procurement & Storage cost

Material Product Improvement
Management
Continuity of Supply Standardization
Development of Personnel New Materials & Products
Inventory System
Inventory Management
What is inventory?
Inventory is the raw materials, component parts, work-in- process, or finished products that are
held at a location in the supply chain.
A physical resource that a firm holds in stock with the intent of selling it or transforming it into a
more valuable state.
Inventory Control
Inventory Control- It is a planned approach of determining what to order and how much to
order and how much to stock so that costs associated with buying and storing are optimal
without interrupting production and sales.
Inventory control basically deals with two problems:
1. When should an order placed? (Order level)

2. How much should be ordered? (Order quantity)
Objectives of Inventory Control

 To ensure adequate supply of products to customer and avoid shortage as per as possible.
 To make sure that the financial investment in inventories is minimum.
 To maintain timely record of inventories of all items and stock.
 To ensure timely action for replenishment.
 To provide a reserve stock.
 To provide a scientific base for both short-term and long-term planning of materials.
Hence to achieve satisfactory levels of customer service while keeping inventory costs within
reasonable bounds.
Inventory Counting System
1. Periodic System
1 2 2. Perpetual Inv System
3 4 3. Two Bin System
4. Universal Barcode
Periodic System
Physical count of items made at periodic intervals.
Perpetual Inventory System

Keeps track of the inventory continuously, thus
monitoring current levels of each item.
Two-Bin System - Two containers of inventory; reorder when the first is empty.
Universal Bar Code
Bar code printed on a label that has information about the item to which it is
attached.

Inventory Cost
Inventory costs fall into 3 main categories:
1. Ordering costs (also called Setup costs)
2. Carrying costs (also called Holding costs)
3. Stock-out costs (also called Shortage costs).
Besides, there are some other relevant costs associated
with inventory and these have been illustrated later on.
Ordering costs: the costs incurred every time you place an order.
These costs can be split in two parts:
i. The cost of the ordering process itself: It typically includes fees for placing the order, and
all kinds of clerical costs related to invoice processing, accounting, or communication.
ii. The inbound logistics cost: related to transportation and reception unloading and
inspecting.
Carrying costs: Carrying cost refers to the total cost of holding the inventory.
This includes warehousing costs such as rent, utilities, concerned salaries and financial costs.
Stock out costs: The costs incurred when stock outs (shortage) take place.
Example: for retailers, it can include the costs of emergency shipments, change of suppliers with
faster deliveries, substitution to less profitable items, etc.
Relevant Inventory Costs

Capital costs (or financing charges): everything related to the investment, the interests on
working capital and the opportunity cost of the money invested in the inventory.
Storage space costs: the cost of building and facility maintenance (lighting, air conditioning,
heating, etc.).
Inventory services costs: Insurance, IT hardware and applications (for some businesses, RFID
equipment and such), but also physical handling with the corresponding human resources,
management, etc.
Inventory risk costs: Include obsolescence, damage or deterioration, theft, insurance, and taxes
associated with the volume of inventory held.
Back order: A cost incurred by a business when it is unable to fill an order and must complete it
later. A backorder cost can be discrete, as in the cost to replace a specific piece of inventory, or
intangible, such as the effects of poor customer service. Backorder costs are usually computed
and displayed on a per-unit basis.
Lost sale: Profit foregone because the orders could not be fulfilled for whatever reason. Occurs
when the customer is not willing to wait for delivery.

Material Requirements Planning (MRP) is a computer-based production planning and

inventory control system. MRP is concerned with both production scheduling and inventory
control. It is a material control system that attempts to keep adequate inventory levels to assure
that required materials are available when needed.
For Example, in weaving plant that manufactures fabrics (independent demand), and inventory
item might include yarn, sizing materials etc. (dependent demand). The theme of MRP is "getting
the right component parts and materials to right place and right time".
 Independent demand- Finished products
 Dependent demand-components
MRP System
Requirements of MRP
1. Master production schedule (what is to be made and when),
2. Specifications or bill of material (materials and parts required to make the product),
3. Inventory availability (what is in stock),
4. Purchase orders outstanding (what is in order), and
5. Lead time (how long it takes to get various components).
Advantages of MRP Disadvantage of MRP

Inventory increased costs ensuring that
Reduces the Customer Times
production is done on time
Lack of flexibility, it is a rigid and simplistic
Improves Customer Satisfaction
system
Data integrity is needed so if the information is
Reduces inventory costs mistaken information could be magnified later in
the process
Improves manufacturing efficiency using Data management is also dependent in
the planning and scheduling information input correctly
Missing the integration of the other
Optimizes the use of labor and equipment departments such as financials, designing, cost
management and more.
MRP Inputs
Master Production Schedule (MPS): MPS specifies what is to be made (i.e. the number of
finished products or items) and when. The production plan sets the overall level of output in
broad terms (e.g. product families, standard hours, or dollar volume). The plan also includes a
variety of inputs including financial plans, engineering capabilities, labor availability, inventory
fluctuations, supplier performance, and other considerations.
Bill of Materials (BOM): A listing of all raw materials, parts, subassemblies, and assemblies
needed to produce one unit of a product.
Inventory records file: Provides an accounting of how much inventory is already on hand or on
order and thus should be subtracted from the material requirements.
MRP Outputs
Primary Reports:
 Planned order schedules, which outline the quantity and timing of future materials orders.
 Order release, which authorizes the orders to be made.
 Change to Planned order, which might include cancellations or revisions of the quantity or
time frame.
Secondary Reports:
 Performance control reports, which are used to track problems like missed delivery dates
and stock- outs to evaluate system performance.
 Planning reports, which can be used in forecasting future inventory requirements
 Exception reports, which call manager's attention to major problems like late orders or
excessive scrap rate.
Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP)

Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) is a software designed system for organizing and managing
business processes (core and administrative) by sharing information across functional areas.
Core processes include production planning and control, inventory management, purchasing,
and distribution; administrative processes include accounting (cost control, accounts payable
and receivable, etc.) and human resource management.
ERP combines all the work information of different departments into a single, integrated
software program in computer that runs off a single database so that the various departments
can easily share information and communicate with each other.
Advantage of ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning)

 Provides integration of the supply chain, production, and administration.
 Creates commonality of databases.
 Can incorporate improved processes that suit the business best.
 Increases communication and collaboration between business units and sites.
 May provide a strategic advantage.
 Helps in maximizing output and minimizing inventories.
 Makes processes less complex by organizing and sharing information from manufacturing,
sales and finance which lead to improved decision making.
Disadvantage of ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning)

 Its very expensive to purchase and even more so to customize.
 Implementation may require major changes in the company and its processes.
 Its so complex that many companies cannot adjust to it.
 Involves an ongoing, possibly never completed, process for implementation.
 Expertise is limited with ongoing staffing problems.
Economic Order Quantity (EOQ)

The economic order quantity (EOQ) is a company's optimal order quantity that meets demand
while minimizing its total costs related to ordering, receiving, and holding inventory. The EOQ
formula is best applied in situations where demand, ordering, and holding costs remain constant
over time.
How much to Order: Economic Order Quantity Models

The question of how much to order is frequently determined by using an economic order
quantity (EOQ) model. EOQ models identify the optimal order quantity by minimizing the sum of
certain annual costs that vary with order size. Three order size models are described here.
1. The Basic Economic Order Quantity Model
2. The Economic Production Quantity Model
3. The Quantity Discount Model
EOQ Assumptions:
1. Demand is known & Constant- no
safety stock is required
2. Lead time is known and constant
3. No quantity discounts are available
4. Order (Or Setup) costs are constant
5. All demand is satisfied (no shortages)
6. The order quantity arrives in a single
shipment
Economic Order Quantity Cost Equation (EOQ)

EOQ: Total Cost Equation
𝐷 𝑄
TCEOQ = ( 𝑆) + ( 𝐻)
𝑄 2
Where
TC = total annual cost
D = annual demand
Q = quantity to be ordered
H = annual holding cost
S = ordering or setup cost
WASTE MANAGEMENT
What is waste?
Waste is an unwanted or undesired material or substance.
It is also referred to as rubbish, trash, garbage or junk depending upon the type of material and
the regional terminology.
In living organism, waste relates to unwanted substances or toxins that are expelled from them.
Waste Management:
This are the human control of the collection, treatment and disposal of different wastes. This is
in order to reduce the negative impacts waste has on environment and society.
Waste is directly linked to the human development both technologically and socially.
The compositions of different wastes have varied over time and location with industrial
development and innovation being directly linked to waste materials.
Examples of this include plastics and nuclear technology. Some components of waste have
economic value and can be recycled once correctly recovered.
Biodegradable wastes, such as food waste or sewage, is broken down naturally by
microorganisms aerobically.
Waste management in garment industries:

Waste is purchased raw materials which is subsequentially not sold as product. Since waste costs
money hence if waste can be reduced, it is in turn reduce the overall price of the product that
make the factory competitive.
Waste directly hits on the bottom line. It associates with time, money, inventory, utility etc. Thus
waste management is very important to improve competency of a garment factory. However,
waste is a very common & constant factor which has to be computed inside the costing of
garment before being sold. So, once the price is frozen, waste reduction helps through savings.
Various stage of Wastage:

Fabric sourced from outside
Pieces from production to finishing.
Pcs issued from finishing to washing dyeing.
Fabric issued to cutting.
Pieces issued from bundling to sewing
Pieces issued to pressing.
Pieces issued to printing
Pieces cut.
Pieces received from printing
Cut pieces issued to bundling
Pieces issued to packing. Engr. Md. Zahid Murad Shuva
Fabric store Lecturer-SARSTEC, Directorate of Textiles
Wastes in the cutting room
Bundling room
Production floor
Dyeing & Washing
Printing & embroidery
Finishing
Reasons of wastage
Main causes of wastage identified are:
Motion
Delay/waiting
Conveyance (Moving thing around)
Correction
Over processing
Inventory
Over Production
Knowledge disconnection underutilization of resources
Wastage in various stage of production

1. Mistakes in design communication
Sample production
2. Craftsmanship problems
1. Wrong color or shade
Cutting floor
2. Fabric faults
1. Machine problem
Sewing dept.
2. Faulty craftsmanship
1. Dyeing
Out sourcing
2. Embroidery
1. Ironing problem
Problems detected during final Inspection
2. Measurement problems
Improvement methods:
Waste reduction methods:
1. Wastes in the cutting room.
2. Care in movement of work in progress
3. Quality control
Recommendations to reduce wastes

1. Waste stream reduction for apparel manufacturer – to develop a comprehensive waste
management system
2. Technique to reduce industry specific waste.
3. To handle specific operational wastes.
Measures to control cost reduction in wastes
 Finish in time
 Minimum changes in original design
 Least make break/ Rework
 Keep check on labor and material costs
 Avoid rework due to bad quality
 Optimum range of materials
 Enhance labor productivity through skill development training
 Ethical management information systems (MIS) for ethical decision making.
Concept of 3R’s in Waste management:

The 3Rs to be followed for waste management.
1. Reduce 2. Reuse 3. Recycle
Recycling of waste garments and textiles:

 Recycling of waste raw materials left by garment factories has emerged as a good income
generating source for many people in recent times.
 As the information sector requires small investment, it attracts a good number of investors
who are employing thousands of people, mostly from under privileged classes.
 The garment leftovers, called jhoot by the people involved in the trade, are virtually turned
into useful materials.
 Every bit and pieces of waste raw materials starting from out-pieces of clothes, zippers,
buttons, threads, elastic fasteners, used plastic packets, broken cloth hangers, empty
bobbins to rejected pants, shirts and T-shirts are sold from the garments factories.
 Textile recycling is the method of reusing or reprocessing clothing, fibrous material and
clothing scraps from the manufacturing process.
 Textiles in municipals solid waste are found mainly in discarded clothing, although other
sources include furniture, carpets, tires, footwear, and nondurable goods such as sheets and
towels.
 After collection of the textiles, workers sort and separate collected textiles into good quality
clothing and shoes which can be reused or worn. Damaged textiles are sorted to make
industrial wiping clothes
 If textile re-processors receive wet or soiled clothes however these may still end up being
disposed of in landfill, as the washing and drying facilities are not present at sorting units.
 Clothing fabric generally consists of composites of cotton (biodegradable material) and
synthetic plastics. The textile’s composition will affect its durability and method of recycling.
 Fiber reclamation mills grade incoming material into type and color. The color sorting means
no re-dying has to take place, saving energy and pollutants. The textiles are shredded into
“shoddy” fibers and blended with other selected fibers, depending on the intended end use
of the recycled yarn. The blended mixtures is carded to clean and mix the fibers and spun
ready for weaving or knitting.
 The fibers can also be compressed for mattress production.
 Textiles sent to flocking are shredded to make filling material for car insulation, roofing felts,
loudspeaker cones, panel linings and furniture padding.
 For specialized polyester based materials the recycling process is significantly different.
 The first step is to remove the buttons and zippers then to cut the garments into small pieces.
The shredded fabric is then granulated and formed into small pallets. The pattets are broken
down polymerized and turned into polyester chips. The chips are melted and spun into new
filament fiber used to make new polyester fabrics.
 Some companies are creating new piece of clothing from scraps of old clothes.
 Ninety-nine percent of used textiles are recyclable.
Stages of Recycling:
Typically recycling technologies are divided into primary, secondary, tertiary.
1. Primary approaches involve recycling a product into its original form.
2. Secondary recycling involves melt processing a plastic product into a new product that has
a lower level of physical, mechanical and/or chemical properties.
3. Tertiary recycling involves processes such as pyrolysis and hydrolysis which convert the
plastic wastes into basic chemicals or fuels.
Re-Use of Garment wastes:

1. The unusable parts and extremely shredded clothes are recycled into waste cotton. PCW
2. Mattress, pillows, cushions, seat stuffing and padding in cars, public buses and rickshaws
are usually done with these recycled clothes and processed cotton.
3. Even bandages are being reproduced with the leftover white cotton fabrics
4. While buttons, zippers, elastic, fastener, hangers and plastic bags are resold to mini
garment accessory sellers.
5. Unused buttons, zippers, elastic, fastener are mostly purchased by local tailors said an
accessory seller.

Lecturer: Dept. of Apparel Engineering
Shahid Abdur Rab Serniabat Textile engineering college, Barisal
Directorate of Textiles, Ministry of Textiles & Jute (35th BCS)
Apparel Production, Planning & Control
AE 405

Apparel Production Planning Control AE 405

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Apparel Production, Planning & Control

Engr. Md. Zahid Murad Shuva

Md. Muksedul Momin

Introduction to Apparel Production

Production control ***

Production Planning & control ***

Difference between Production Planning & Production control ***

Functions of PPC ***

Material Requirement Planning (Inventory): Preparation of Material requirement

Process Planning: Process planning is a preparatory step before manufacturing,

Steps in Process Planning/ Planning Process (Anyone)*****

Steps in Process Planning/ Planning Process (Anyone)*****

Measurement of Capacity Planning

2. System capacity: System capacity is maximum output of specific product or

Calculation of factory capacity (in hours) in apparel industry

= 2400 pcs (Ans.)

Is available capacity adequate to accept the order?

In an ideal situation, Load = Capacity

Style Name Order Qty SMV/gmt Total SMV

A. Average Weekly load = Total SMV/no. of Week

Factors influencing Effective Capacity **

3. Subcontracting: Subcontracting refers to off loading, some of jobs to outside

Factors favoring over capacity & Under Capacity

Objectives/ purpose of Plant/Facility Layout

5. Effective utilization of men, equipment and space.

Factors influencing Plant Layout

Types of Plant Layout/ Facility Design

Process layouts that group resources based on similar processes or functions.

The product type layout is shown in following fig:

Turning Milling Drilling Package

Product or Line layout

Workstation 1 Workstation 2 Workstation 3 Workstation 4

Comparison between product and process layout**

Plant Location Types: It is of 2 types:

Plant Location- Selection.

Cutting Room management

Cutting Process Flow Chart

Cutting Room Activities

Engr. Md. Zahid Murad Shuva

Cutting Room inspection factors

Placement of manual spreading and cutting

Layout Plan/Schematic diagram of a Cutting Room in Garments Floor

Fig: Layout plan of a Cutting Room in a Garments Floor

Role of a Cutting Room Manager

Layout Plan of a Cutting Room in Garments Floor (2nd)

Lay Planning & Marker Processes

Input Transformation Output

Apparel Production System

Individual /Make through/whole garment system

Advantage of Individual /Make through/whole garment system

Disadvantage of Individual /Make through/whole garment system

Progressive bundle system

PBS Work Flow

Unit Production system

Advantage of Unit Production system

Disadvantage of Unit Production system

Modular Production system

Advantage of Modular Disadvantage of Modular Production

Japanese Toyota Production System (TPS)