MONTANA

Pattern by

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 ©Tinna ÞÞ 2020
If you need help with the pattern, please consider joining my FB group, TINNA’S
CROCHET CLUB, where me and my admin team are happy to help you out.
You can also check out my YouTube channel for visual support.
I have a MONTANA support tutorial available there, as well as a special tutorial on how
to work with my charts.
Just search for TINNA CROCHET on YouTube and you’ll find me!

This Pattern has been designed and written by Tinna Thorudottir Thorvaldar. Please do
not share, copy or redistribute this pattern without permission. Note that this includes
posting photos showing significant parts of the charts on social media.

This way you contribute to the growth of the creative crochet community and support the
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You are welcome to sell your finished items, but please give Tinna credit.
Montana when it comes to the geography of the
United States. At any rate, I really like the
name, so I’m sticking to my guns! (cowboy
show pun intended!)
After a quick online image search for
Southwestern designs, I soon realized that
the recurrent motifs used in these types of
designs, this ensemble of triangles, are quite
ancient and can be found in many cultures
around the globe. For example, in Persia,
India and Turkey, where they are
represented in the Kilim rugs. In the case of
the specific Southwestern design, it seems
that they are originated in the art of native
North American tribes. Which are found
predominantly both in Navajo designs, a
Main color (A) is the grey here and pattern color
(B) is brown here. tribe originated from the Southwestern
territory of what is now the USA, annexed
I’ve been wanting to make a Southwestern
from Mexico in 1848, and on the other hand
design for ages now and after binge
in Aztec designs, the great indigenous
watching the series Yellowstone, this one
civilization which ruled most of Mexico at
jumped off my hook!
the time of the Spanish invasion in the 16th
On top of how incredibly handsome Kevin century. Like I said, this was a quick research,
Costner is in his role of the lone ranger so I don’t pretend to be an expert and I am
patriarch (how is he still so hot btw?!), the sure that these motifs can be found in the
set of the series is filled with the most artwork of more native American cultures,
beautiful southwestern style décor, which both in South and North America.
inspired me to work on this design. Hence
What I find inspiring is that after centuries of
the name Montana, the beautiful state
what can only be described as a very painful
where the series take place.
and complicated history of European
Now, on a side note, I have since then been invasion and dominance over the indigenous
made aware that Montana is actually not in cultures and tribes of the Americas, five
the Southwest (dear me oh my!) but way up centuries later we still find these gorgeous
north, close to the Canadian border. So, I motifs and designs very much alive and
hereby publicly acknowledge my ignorance relevant in the respected territories. Which
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just shows us how art and culture always has I used Beiroa from Rosa Pomar for both my
a way of surviving and adapting to new wip Montana blanket and the pocket shawl
realities. Furthermore, I find it fascinating
That’s 100% Portuguese wool, which comes
that we find these similar motifs in ancient
cultures from opposite sides of the world, a in 100 g balls.
true testament of age-old cultural exchange (that´s worsted weight, 100 g = 230 m)
between humans. It really goes to show how
our world history is woven together in this
great cultural tapestry and unites us all in our
textile heritage.

For the Montana pocket shawl you need:

5 x balls of color A (I used color 401)
4 x balls of color B (I used color 478)
Yarn, hook & gauge:
For the Montana blanket you will need:
You can use any yarn you like for this pattern
14 x balls of color A (I used color 401)
and a hook that suits your yarn. See the yarn
stats table on page 21 for various yarn types 12 x balls of color B
and the amounts needed for this project.
That’s 4 x balls of color B for each row of
For my Montana pocket shawl I used: stars, I did 3 rows of stars and used 2 colors
for my color B, one light blue, one dark blue
4.5 mm hook for the body
in the middle and then again one light blue:
4 mm hook for the pockets
8 x balls of the lighter blue (no. 688)
For my Montana blanket I used:
4 x balls of the darker blue (no. 695)
4.5 mm hook
GAUGE:
4 mm hook if doing the double border
18 ST & 18 rows = 10 cm (in mosaic crochet)
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Abbreviations (US terms): includes written instructions on how and in
which order to work the user-friendly charts.
ST = stitch/stitches
IMPORTANT: When working my patterns,
SS = slip stitch
always assume the next stitch will go in the
CH = chain stitch next available stitch unless told otherwise.
For example, if it says: work 5 SC, then you
SC = single crochet (= DC in UK terms)
work 1 SC into each of the next 5 ST. On the
DC = double crochet (= TR in UK terms) other hand, if you are supposed to skip a
stitch or work many stitches into the same
ST/CH SP, then that is always specified.

Each row is worked with only one color at a

time. The piece is always crocheted flat in
rows, work one row in color A (main color)
and then one row in color B (pattern color),
alternating with each row.
You will need at least two colors and I
recommend using contrasting colors.

I also did a Montana scarf in fingering weight yarn,

see all info and yarn stats for that on page 20.

General Instructions
You can use the Montana pattern to make a
pocket shawl, a wrap (that’s a rectangular
shawl), a scarf or a blanket.
The Montana consists of a charted mosaic Here you can see Jui’s beautiful Ploppy
pattern that comes in 3 variations, always Loppy Montana in the making. For various
with a 56 ST repeat, which can therefore be yarn options and specific yarn stats for
worked in various sizes. This is a chart Montana projects please check the yarn
pattern, the rows are not written up, and stats table on page 21.

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The Montana pattern comes with various Sizes
finishing options. For the scarf and the
pocket shawl you can do the twisted fringe
or a normal fringe, and that way you are
making the most of all the ends we have on
either side when working mosaic crochet,
incorporating those into the design and the
finished piece. For the Montana blanket you
can opt for either a fringe or a double
border. Lastly, on my WIP Montana blanket
I’m working a border frame as part of the
mosaic crochet body and plan on adding a
macrame finish to that, as a nice finish for all
the ends. Here you can see Sue’s version
with a double knotted macrame finish, it’s
just lovely!
The pattern comes in a predetermined size
for a pocket shawl or a wrap in worsted
weight yarn. That’s approximately:
170 cm (70”) wide and 65 cm (25.5”) long.
If making a shawl without the pockets, the
width isn´t that relevant. But so that the
pocket shawl fits you it seems that the
This pattern does not come with the
general rule of thumb is that it should be
macrame instructions, I may do a tutorial on
that when I finish my blanket, but for now approximately as wide as you are tall! I´m
you’ll just have to google it if you want to do 166 cm tall and this size (170 cm) fits me. If
that finish. Finally, you can always opt for the you are maybe 160 cm tall or shorter, please
double border, instructions for that are consider making your pocket shawl in a DK
included on pages 15-19. weight yarn so that your shawl will be
approximately 160 cm wide and will then fit
If lefthanded, you can either start with the
you better!
written pattern and then go on to the chart,
reading it from right to left. Or just work For my friends from the States & the UK,
from the chart and work it from left to right, 1 inch is 2.5 cm, now go calculate! LOL.
the end result will then be the same.
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Decide your own size! pocket shawl is just worked one time. But if
you want to make a blanket for example, you
can easily do as many repeats of the 90 row
pattern as you like.
Furthermore, if making a blanket, I plan on
making mine vertical. That is, then you chain
up the length of the blanket, not the width.
Then the length is determined by the 56 ST
repeat you chain up with, and the width can
be controlled by how many times you repeat
the 90 rows of the whole pattern. More on
that on pages 13-14.

Mosaic Crochet Technique

When working the mosaic patterns, each
row is worked with only one color at a time.
I recommend always using contrasting colors
for A and B, that way the patterns pop more.

The Montana design is crocheted with the

This is a continuous pattern, that is worked mosaic crochet technique:
flat in repeats, so you can decide yourself on
All single crochet stitches are worked in the
both the width and the length of your wrap,
back loop of a stitch.
scarf or blanket.
Width - the width of the blanket is worked in
multiples of a 56 ST repeat and then adding
143 extra stitches to that (that´s the bit
before and after the repeats), so you can just
chain up as many repeats of 56 ST as you like
and add 143 ST to that to get the width you All double crochet stitches are worked in
desire. the front loop of a stitch in the row below
Length – The length of the pattern is worked the one you would normally crochet into.
That is, in the corresponding stitch right
in a repeat of 90 rows (not including the two
below the stitch you would normally
foundation rows), which for the wrap and
crochet into, one row down. For example,
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the double crochet stitches from Row 4 are just focus on whether there is an X or not in
worked into stitches in Row 2, DC stitches each box.
from Row 5 are worked into stitches in Row
If the box is empty, work a SC there. If there
3, etc. When working the double crochet
is an X in the box, work a DC there.
stitches, you just yarn over and insert your
hook from below in the front loop of the The thick lines at beginning and end of
corresponding stitch below and then work pattern (both vertical and horizontal) are the
a normal DC in that stitch. See the ones that mark the repeats. The thicker lines
illustration on previous page. inside the chart itself, are just for guidance
This way you get this unique mosaic while working on the pattern.
pattern. Because the mosaic pattern is In the first column from the right is a
worked this way, always from the front number showing which row it is. This column
side, the pattern only appears on front side does not count as stitches.
of the afghan, and the back side is striped.
In the second column from the right is the
Instructions for Charts border stitch at the beginning of row, which
you work like this:
pull the yarn through both loops of the first
SC of the row, fasten it with 1 CH (note that
you do not work into this first CH at the
beginning of the next row, it’s only made to
fasten the yarn at the start), work 1 SC into
both loops of the same first SC of the row.
Third column from the right is an extra
stitch
this is an extra stitch that you only work at
In the chart each line across represents one the beginning of the row and does not form
row and each box represents one stitch, part of the repeat. This is just to get the
except for the first and the last columns. pattern centered and so that the beginning
Bear in mind that although the pattern is of the row mirrors the end of row if working
colored into the chart, this is only to show it flat.
you what the pattern should look like when Next part is the pattern, the part of the
you are done. Remember that each row is pattern that is repeated is defined by thicker
worked with a single color. So, ignore the lines.
color change in the chart while stitching and
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In the first column from the left is a number MONTANA POCKET SHAWL
showing which row it is. This column does
not count as stitches.
In the second column from the left is the
border stitch at the end of row, which you
work like this:
work 1 SC into both loops of the last SC of the
row, CH 1, break the yarn and pull it all the
way through, tightly. Note that you will not
work any stitches into this last chain at the
end of next row, it is only made to better
fasten the yarn before breaking it off.

Using color A and a 4.5 mm hook:

Leave a 15 cm long tail and chain up 311 ST.
The total stitch count per row for the whole
shawl will be 311 ST.

MONTANA CHART PLANS This size is worked doing 3 repeats of the

pattern repeat on the width. Lengthwise you
You will find 3 separate files in your add 6 rows before and after the chart (these
downloads for the charts for the Pocket are the stripes) and then just following the
shawl, the wrap version and the blanket chart exactly on the length. The stripes are
version. Note that you can use the wrap of course optional, but including those
version to make a blanket and vice versa. there´s a total of 101 rows, plus the 2
The following instructions apply size wise if foundation rows (which are included in the
using the suggested worsted weight yarn, chart, but not counted in the chart row
Beiroa, or other yarn in similar weight, so do numbers, but must be worked accordingly
check your gauge before starting! after the stripes as part of the chart). Grand
total of 103 rows.
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 leave a 15 cm long tail, break the yarn and
pull it all the way through, tightly. Note that
you will not work any stitches into this last
chain at the end of next row, it is only made
to better fasten the yarn before breaking it
off.
From now on, the border stitches at the
beginning and end of each row, are always
worked this same way & you always leave a
15 cm long tail on each end.
If working the stripes, then you repeat these
2 foundation rows 3 more times, for a total
of 8 striped rows at the beginning.
Start by working the 2 foundation rows: After finishing either 2 or 8 rows of striped
Foundation row 1. Color A: make 1 extra foundation rows, you then continue by
chain, work 1 SC into the second ST from working each complete row according to the
hook, work 1 SC into each stitch and finish by charts for the pocket shawl in this order:
breaking the yarn after that last SC, leaving a • Work rows 1-30 on charts 1A, 1B, 1C &
15 cm long tail, and pulling the yarn once 1D (So that´s then row 1 of all those
through that last ST. (311 ST, here and in all charts combined when you are
rows) starting! Etc the same, up to row 30).
Foundation row 2. Color B: leave a 15 cm • Then work rows 31-60 according to
long tail and work border stitch at the charts 2A, 2B, 2C & 2D.
beginning of the row like this: pull the yarn • Then work rows 61 – 89 according to
through both loops of the first SC of the row, charts 3A, 3B, 3C & 3D.
fasten it with 1 CH (note that you do not If you are not making the stripes, then you
work into this first CH at the beginning of the have finished your piece after row 89 on the
next row, it’s only made to fasten the yarn at D charts.
the start), work 1 SC into both loops of the
same first SC of the row. Work 1 SC into the If making the stripes you now repeat the two
back loop of each stitch of the row until foundation rows 3 times at this point, but
there is only one ST left. Work border stitch alternating the colors, starting with color B
at the end of row like this: work 1 SC into and then A. (that´s, B-A-B-A-B-A), total of 6
both loops of the last SC of the row, CH 1, extra rows, finishing with a foundation row
in color A, main color.
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That’s a total of 103 rows, including the do not work the standard border stitch at
stripes. Total of 91 rows if you exclude the the end of row, so that the pocket will look
stripes. neater and blend in with the scarf on that
side when sewed in. (44 ST, here & in all
THE POCKETS
rows)
Foundation row 2. Color B: work border
stitch at the beginning of the row like this:
pull the yarn through both loops of the first
SC of the row, fasten it with 1 CH (note that
you do not work into this first CH at the
beginning of the next row, it’s only made to
fasten the yarn at the start), work 1 SC into
both loops of the same first SC of the row.
Work 1 SC into the back loop of each stitch
of the row stitch and finish by leaving a 20
cm long tail, breaking the yarn after that last
SC and pulling the yarn STRAIGHT UP from
your last ST. Note that when working the
pockets, we do not work the standard
Next up are the pockets and then we go border stitch at the end of row, so that the
down half a hook size. Make 2 pockets. pocket will look neater and blend in with the
To avoid having to weave in all the ends on scarf on that side when sewed in, as you can
the pocket pieces, I leave an extra long tale see in the pic here below.
on the right side of the pocket. These tails
will then serve as part of the twisted fringe!
This way you only have to weave in the ends
on the left side. (invert this if lefthanded).
Using color A and a 4 mm hook:
Leave a 20 cm long tail and chain up 44 ST.
Foundation row 1. Color A: make 1 extra
chain, work 1 SC into the second ST from
hook, work 1 SC into each stitch and finish by
breaking the yarn after that last SC and
pulling the yarn STRAIGHT UP from your last
ST. Note that when working the pockets, we
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From now on, the border stitches at the Place your pockets onto the shawl according
beginning and end of each row, are always to the pocket outlines on the shawl.
worked this same way & always leaving a
The end of row of the pocket itself should be
20 cm long tail at the end of row.
facing the end of row of the shawl piece, so
Row 1. Work border ST, 1 DC into each ST of that the fringes are on the same side. Start
the row. Finish by cutting the yarn, leaving a by threading each of the tails from the
20 cm long tail, and pulling the yarn straight pocket down to the border of the shawl,
up from your last ST. (44 ST) joining the fringe/tails of the shawl. There´s
no need to sew this bottom part of the
Row 2. Work border ST, 1 SC into each ST of
pocket more, it´ll sit nicely just after this
the row. Finish by cutting the yarn, leaving a
threading.
20 cm long tail, and pulling the yarn straight
up from your last ST. (44 ST)
Rows 3- 8. Repeat rows 1 & 2.
Work rows 9-33 according to the chart for
the pocket.
Rows 34- 41. Repeat rows 2 & 1, finishing
with a repetition of row 1.
Weave in the ends at the beginning of row.
Block the shawl and the pockets.

Next up is sewing the sides of the pockets

onto the shawl. Do so in the first row of
stitches in color A (main color) of the shawl,
next to the pocket outline on the shawl that
is made in color B.
Make a twisted fringe with your tails on
each side.

For further instructions and visual aid on

how to sew the pockets onto the scarf,
please check out the video tutorial on my
YouTube channel for detailed instructions
on that and how to work your extra
pocket tails into the twisted fringe.
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MONTANA WRAP Start by working the 2 foundation rows:
Foundation row 1. Color A: make 1 extra
chain, work 1 SC into the second ST from
hook, work 1 SC into each stitch and finish by
breaking the yarn after that last SC, leaving a
15 cm long tail, and pulling the yarn once
through that last ST. (311 ST, here and in all
rows)
Foundation row 2. Color B: leave a 15 cm
long tail and work border stitch at the
beginning of the row like this: pull the yarn
through both loops of the first SC of the row,
fasten it with 1 CH (note that you do not
work into this first CH at the beginning of the
next row, it’s only made to fasten the yarn at
the start), work 1 SC into both loops of the
same first SC of the row. Work 1 SC into the
back loop of each stitch of the row until
there is only one ST left. Work border stitch
Using color A and a 4.5 mm hook: at the end of row like this: work 1 SC into
Leave a 15 cm long tail and chain up 311 ST. both loops of the last SC of the row, CH 1,
The total stitch count per row for the whole leave a 15 cm long tail, break the yarn and
scarf will be 311 ST. pull it all the way through, tightly. Note that
you will not work any stitches into this last
This size is worked doing 3 repeats of the
chain at the end of next row, it is only made
pattern repeat on the width. Lengthwise you
to better fasten the yarn before breaking it
add 6 rows before and after the chart (these
off.
are the stripes) and then just following the
chart exactly on the length. The stripes are From now on, the border stitches at the
of course optional, but including those beginning and end of each row, are always
there´s a total of 101 rows, plus the 2 worked this same way & you always leave a
foundation rows (which are not counted in 15 cm long tail on each end.
the chart row numbers, but must be worked If working the stripes, then you repeat these
accordingly after the stripes as part of the 2 foundation rows 3 more times, for a total
chart). Grand total of 103 rows. of 8 striped rows at the beginning.

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 alternating the colors, starting with color B
and then A. (that´s, B-A-B-A-B-A), total of 6
extra rows, finishing with a foundation row
in color A, main color.
That’s a total of 103 rows, including the
stripes. Total of 91 rows if you exclude the
stripes.
Block the wrap.
Make a twisted or a normal fringe with your
tails on each side, see video tutorial on my
YouTube channel for detailed instructions on
that.

After finishing either 2 or 8 rows of striped

foundation rows, you then continue by
working EACH ROW according to the charts Note that you can also make a wrap with
for the pocket shawl in this order: the blanket version chart, then you only
have one big diamond on each side of the
• Work rows 1-30 on charts 1A, 1B, 1C & stars, see how that looks in the top left
1D (So that´s then row 1 of all those corner of pic here below.
charts combined when you are
starting! Etc the same, up to row 30).
• Then work rows 31-60 according to
charts 2A, 2B, 2C & 2D.
• Then work rows 61 – 89 according to
charts 3A, 3B, 3C & 3D.
If you are not making the stripes, then you
have finished your piece after row 89 on the
D charts.
If making the stripes you now repeat the two
foundation rows 3 times at this point, but

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MONTANA BLANKET For a horizontal Montana blanket that is
approximately 195 cm long and 135 cm
wide, you work 2 repats of the stars and 3
extra repeats of the 90 rows of the chart
before finishing it off with the stripes. This
will give you a blanket of 4 stars on the lengt
and 2 on the width (total of 8 stars).
Here you can see Jui´s wip 8 star Montana
blanket, which is worked according to these
instructions and using the charts for the
wrap variation, just over half way done.

The following size suggestions are based on

the 18 st & 18 row gauge when worked in See the yarn stats for this 8 star variation
worsted weight yarn, like for example Beiroa using Plotulopi (aka Ploppy Loppy) in the
or Plötulopi. yarn stats table on page 21. You will also
find a separate file in your Montana
You can work the blanket version of
downloads with this exact color scheme.
Montana both horizontal or vertically. If you
work it horizontally, then you chain up the For a horizontal Montana blanket that is
width of the blanket and the stars will line up approximately 195 cm long and 170 cm
like in the photo here above. wide, you work 3 repeats of the stars and 3
extra repeats of the 90 rows of the chart
To make a Montana Blanket, follow the
before finishing it off with the stripes. This
instructions for the montana wrap on pages
will give you a blanket of 4 stars on the lengt
11-12, but to get different sizes you can vary
and 3 on the width (total of 12 stars).
on how many repeats you do.

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If you work it vertically, then you chain up off with the stripes. This will give you a
the lengt and the stars will line up like in the blanket of 3 stars on the lengt and 3 on the
photo here below. width (total of 9 stars). For this blanket you
will need 18 skeins of color A and 15 skeins
of color B.
To make other sizes of blankets, you can
work more or less repeats of the 56 st
repeat (the star), or use thinner or thicker
yarn to further control the size.

For a vertical Montana blanket that is

approximately 170 cm long and 100 cm
wide, follow the instructions for the
montana wrap (that’s 3 repeats), but work
one extra repeat of the 90 rows of the chart
before finishing it off with the stripes. This
will give you a blanket of 3 stars on the lengt
and 2 on the width (total of 6 stars). For this
For a Montana blanket you can either just
blanket you will need 12 skeins of color A
work the charts as they are or you can frame
and 10 skeins of color B, in the Beiroa yarn.
it up, like I´m doing, using the 3 Stripe Border
For a vertical Montana blanket that is Frame. You´ll find a chart for the frame at the
approximately 170 cm long and 145 cm end of the blanket chart file. You then have
wide, follow the instructions for the to add 12 ST to your starting chain up &
montana wrap, but work two extra repeats follow the simple instructions you´ll find in
of the 9 rows of the chart before finishing it the Border Frame chart.
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Finishing options, the simple border, which you see
here in the first photo, or the striped border,
Now, after finishing the blanket itself, we are
which you can see here below.
left with a lot of tails! Endless ends if you
will! You can either choose to make a twisted
fringe, normal fringe or macrame finish with
the ends, or you can work the standard
double border. I include here both versions
of the double border form my Queen CAL
pattern, both the striped one and the simple
one, for this purpose. Hence the Queen pics.

Double border

The simple border is all worked in one solid

color, but you will need at least 2 colors for
the striped border, which is made working a
single crochet round and then a double
crochet round, and repeating that for 6
rounds on the frontside. The backside is all
worked with double crochet, for both types
of borders, total of 4 rounds. Note that you
can easily make the border wider, working
more rounds, if you like.
Now, the border is made double, so that the
The trick to the double border is to first
ends are hidden inside it. I also like how it
crochet one round with slip stitches, all
gives the blanket a nice finishing touch. For
around the border of the blanket, and the
my Queen I opted for a relatively simple
second rounds (in the front and the back) are
border, with no mosaic pattern, because in
worked into the slip stitches. The back side
my opinion the blanket itself is rather busy
into the back side of the slip stitches and the
so what I really wanted was to just frame it
front side into the front side. Then you work
up nicely. You can choose from two border
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both sides normally from each side. It’s a bit
difficult (and honestly quite tedious!) to
work into the back side of the slip stitches,
so I recommend that you start by working
the first round of the back side first, before
working the front side. If you do it the other
way around, the slip stitches get tighter and
it makes it even more difficult to work into
the back side. After this first round, the
border is a breeze, so just power through!
Before starting the border, you should now
take all your loose ends at beginning of row
and tie them two and two together, the ones
next to each other, with a double knot. This Take care not to work your slip stitches too
way you secure them better. There’s no tightly, so that it won’t be as difficult to work
need to do this with the ends at the end of into the back of them. Work 1 SS in each
row, since we end each row with an extra stitch on the top and the bottom of the
chain to secure the tail. Now trim the ends a blanket and 1 SS into each row on the sides,
bit, so they are approximately 5 cm long. into the SC border stitches. When there is
only 1 ST left, fasten off the yarn and sew the
Foundation round: last stitch in, using the invisible join, like this:
This round is the same for both types of
border. Work with same hook size as you
worked the body of the blanket and color B,
the pattern color (if you like, you can work
this round in any color and I recommend
doing it with a bright or light color, so you
can better see the stitches from the back Now, work the backside of the border with
side). Start somewhere at the bottom of the
color B (the pattern color), or a single color
border of the blanket. Work from the front
of your choosing and a hook that is no 0,5
side of your blanket and crochet slip stitches
mm smaller than what you used for your
all around the border. blanket.

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Simple or Striped border be worth it to get this nice double border),
fasten the yarn and work 2 CH, work 1 DC
into each of the slip stitches, until you get to
a corner, then work 2 DC‘s into the last ST of
that side, 2 chains over the corner and then
2 DC‘s into the first ST after the corner.
Continue working 1 DC into each ST until you
get to the next corner, work all the corners
the same way as the first one. Join with a slip
stitch into the second CH made at the
beginning of the row.

Here you can see the simple border, when worked a

total of 5 rounds, instead of the standard 4.

You can choose to do either the simple

border, which is all DC’s in one solid color,
back and front. Or you can choose to do the
striped border, which then includes some Rnds. 2.- 3. Work the same as the the first
single crochet stripes on the front side. The round, working into both loops of each
backside of the border always remains the stitch. In this round and from now on you
same. work your corners into the chain spaces, that
is 2 DC + 2 CH +2 DC into each corner chain
Back side of the border space.
The back side of the border is same for both Rnd. 4. In this last round of the border, work
types of border. 3 DC + 2 CH + 3 DC into the corner chain
Rnd. 1. Use hook that is no 0,5 mm smaller. space, instead of the 2 DC +2 CH + 2 DC. That
Work from the backside of the blanket and way you‘ll get a neater (more pointy) corner
start somewhere at the bottom part of the and the same stitch count as for the front
border: work into the back side of the slip side of the striped border.
stitches from the foundation round (note
that this round is no fun at all! But it will all
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Front side of the border Striped border

Simple border
If you choose to do the simple border, then
you work the front side the same as the
backside but note to work the first round
from the front into the back loop only.

Rnd. 1. Color A: Work from the front of the

blanket and stitch into the back loop of each
stitch. Start somewhere at the bottom part
of the border: fasten the yarn and work 1 CH,
work 1 SC into each of the slip stitches, until
you get to a corner, work 2 SC into the last
ST before the corner, then work 2 chains
over the corner like for the back side, and
again 2 SC‘s into the first ST after the corner.
Continue working 1 SC into each ST until you
get to the next corner, work over all the
corners the same way as the first one. Join
with an invisible join into the first SC of the
round and cut your yarn.
it’s very easy to make the simple border Rnd. 2. Work this whole round into the back
bigger if you like, then just work more loop only and with color B: move the join
repeats of rounds 2 & 3, for both sides of and start at some other part of the border:
the border, and then finish it off with round fasten the yarn and work 2 CH, work 1 DC
4. into each ST, until you get to a corner, work
2 DC’s into the back loop of the first corner
For visual aid with the double border,
chain, CH 2, 2 DC’s into the back loop of the
please check out my video tutorial:
second corner chain. Continue working 1 DC
Beginners Guide to Mosaic Crochet –
Lesson 3 The Double Border. into each ST until you get to the next corner,
work over all the corners the same way as
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the first one. Join with an invisible join into the two sides together and crochet them
the first DC of the round and cut your yarn. together with slip stitches, working only into
the back loop of the front side border and
into the front loop of the backside border.

Rnd. 3. Work this whole round into the back

loop only and with Color A: move the join
and start at some other part of the border:
fasten the yarn and work 1 CH, work 1 SC
into each ST, until you get to a corner, work
1 SC into the back loop of the first corner
chain, CH 2, 1 SC into the back loop of the
Join the two sides of the border like this all
second corner chain. Continue working 1 SC
around. Break of the yarn and weave in the
into each ST until you get to the next corner,
end.
work over all the corners the same way as
the first one. Join with an invisible join into
the first SC of the round and cut your yarn.
Round 4. Repeat round 2, in color B.
Round 5. Repeat round 3, in color A.
Round 6. Repeat round 3, in color B.
Break of the yarn and weave in the ends.
Joining the two sides of the border
Work with color B from the front side of the
blanket. Start close to a corner so it’s easy to
count the stitches to the corner and adjust
the two sides so that they are parallel. Lay
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Montana scarf Yarn
Fingering weight merino wool (100 g = 365 m)
You will need:
3 x 100 g skeins of color A (main color)
3 x 100 g skeins of color B (pattern color)
I used various types of yarn for my Montana
scarf, since you guys always ask for my
colors, for once I kept exact notes on this!
For the pattern color (B) I used:
Tosh Merino Light from Madeline Tosh
(3 skeins = 300 g)
Color: Whiskey Barrel
Rows: all rows in color B
I also made a Montana scarf in fingering
weight yarn using a 3 mm hook. I followed For the main color (A) I used 4 different
the instructions on how to make the wrap, colors:
but did 6 repeats of the star instead of 3, so
Vivacious 4Ply from Fyberspates (50 g)
you chain up 479 ST. This rendered a scarf
measuring approximately 2 m x 40 cm. Color: 615 - Lundy Islands
Rows: from start to row 13
Gauge: 27 st x 27 rows = 10 cm.

Vivacious 4Ply from Fyberspates (100 g)

Color: 626 – Sea Glass
Rows: 15-29 & again for rows 61-75

Scrumptious 4Ply from Fyberspates (100 g)

Color: 327 – Jade
Rows: 31-59

I left 20 cm long tails on each side, to get a

longer fringe & added a 2 stranded fringe to Didda´s Dye Dream from an Icelandic
indie dyer (50 g)
each tail to get a fuller fringe.
Color: Spearmint
Rows: 77 to finish
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 Yarn stats for the Montana
Model Yarn Type, weight, Hook Number of Amount used Amount used Finished
manufacturer size skeins/ball each colour each colour dimensions
(mm) s used each (weight) (meters) (in cm)
colour
Wrap Istex Lettlopi 100% 4.50 A 11 A 550g A 1100m 175 x 60 cm
wool B 10 B 500 g B 1000m
50g = 100 metres
Wrap MoYa Shimmer 3.50 A 11 A 550g A 1375m 190 x 55 cm
50% cotton 50% B 10 B 500g B 1250 m
bamboo 50g=125m
Wrap Istex Plotulopi 4.50 A4 A 400g A 1200m 170 x 55 cm
100% unspun B4 B 400g B 1200m
Icelandic wool 100g
= 300m
Pocket shawl Pernilla 4.00 A 6 Pernilla A Pernilla 300g A 1050m 166 x 50 cm
100% Peruvian + 5 Tilia + Tilia 125g B 900m
wool
50 g = 175metres B 6 Pernilla B Pernilla 270g
plus Tilia silk + 5 Tilia + Tilia 110g
mohair
25g = 210metres.
Both yarns held
together
Pocket shawl Bendigo Woollen 3.50 A4 A 685g A 1370m 170 x 55 cm
Mills 8ply B3 B 500g B 1000m
100% wool
(200g balls)
200g = 400m

Pocket shawl Merino Molon 35 3.50 A5 A 470g A 1128m 172 x 49 cm

Rosas Crafts. B4 B 400 g B 960m
55% wool
45% acrylic
100g=240m
Pocket shawl Drops Puna DK 3.75 A9 A 450g A 990m 160 x 44 cm
100% alpaca B8 B 375g B 825m
50g = 110m
Blanket with King Cole Aran(#4) 4.50 A8 A 750g A 1763m 160 x 115cm
255 stitches 100% Acrylic B8 B 800g B 1880m
wide and 2 100g = 235m No border
repeats high
Blanket with 2 Istex Plotulopi 4.50 A 11 A 1100g A 3300m 140 x 200 cm
repeats wide 100% unspun B 10 B 1000g B 3000m Plus the border
(255 sts) x 4 Icelandic wool 100g Including
repeats high = 300m double
border

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