KYB and Showa Shock Service

KYB and Showa Shock Service
Rebuilding shocks is fairly simple for the

mechanically inclined using common hand tools. If
you feel you do not have the mechanical ability, please
do not attempt to rebuild your shock.
That said, most of the tools you will need are
likely in your toolbox. The only special tool that is
absolutely needed is the nitrogen tank and regulators.
You can usually rebuild your shock and take it to your
local dealer for recharging.
Shocks need rebuilding for various reasons.
The oil breaks down after a lot of use and needs to be
changed. I change my oil twice a year but riders who
ride a lot will need to service their shock more. If you
have oil running down your shock shaft, or if your
shock suddenly gets springy, your seal head has likely
blown. Some of the steps listed below can be ignored
if you are only changing your oil. Do all of the steps
if you are replacing a seal head. Good luck and e-mail
me at [email protected] if you have any
questions.
I tried to make servicing shocks as easy as I
can. This is why this article is written in the way that
it is. If you fill in the information when asked, it will
make your job easier when reassembling it.
1. Remove the shock from the bike and clean it

thoroughly.
2. Measure the installed spring length before removing

the spring, fig 1. This will allow you to reinstall the
spring close to the original sag if using the same
spring.
My installed spring length is
__________
3. Screw both the compression and rebound adjusters
in while counting how many clicks you hear.
My low speed compression adjuster is Fig 1

__________ turns out. Measure the spring length before
removing the spring.
My high speed compression adjuster is
__________ turns out (if installed).
5. Clamp the shock in a padded vice and push down
My rebound adjuster is the nitrogen valve core to remove all of the nitrogen
__________ turns out. from the bladder. Remove the valve core.
4. Turn the compression and rebound adjusters all the

way out.
1
6. Use a deep well socket and press the bladder cap
down until the circlip is exposed, fig 2. Remove the
circlip with a small screwdriver and then remove the
bladder cap, fig 3.
Fig 2
Push down the bladder cap until the
circlip is exposed.
Fig 4
Tap the shock body end cap up.
9. Use a punch and tap the seal head assembly down

until the circlip is exposed, fig 5. Remove the circlip.
Race Tech’s seal head tool makes this job easier.
Showa shocks often use two circlips to hold their seal
heads in place.
Fig 3
Remove the shock bladder. Fig 5
Push down the seal head until the cirlip
can be removed.
7. Pour out the old shock oil through the reservoir.

10. Remove the shaft assembly by gently tapping up
8. Use a punch and tap the shock body end cap up on the shaft assembly eyelet with a plastic mallet.
until it is free, fig 4. Tap the cap off evenly. After the shaft assembly is removed poor out any old
oil that is still in the shock body.
2
11. Clean the shock body and shaft assembly with 17. Install the spring retainer, bottom out bumper,
solvent and let it dry. If you are only changing oil, shock body end cap, and shock seal head assembly, fig
you can go to STEP 22. If you are changing the seal 7.
head you can continue onto step 12.
Caution:
The next step is very critical and should be done by
a qualified suspension specialist. Do not do it if you
do not understand it.
12. Grind off the peening at the end of the shaft

assembly. Fig. 6 shows the correct way to grind this
off. When grinding off the peening only grind off
enough of the peen to remove the nut. On some KYB
and most all Showa shocks, do not remove the
peening that holds the rebound adjustments in.
Leave enough of the nut to get a wrench on it.
Fig 7
Make sure your shock parts are in the
correct order.
18. Use a metric thread pitch gage and check the

thread pitch on the shock shaft. KYB usually uses a
12 x 1.5mm thread while Showa usually uses a 12 X
1.25 mm thread. You can install a new nut or use your
old one if it is still good.
Fig 6 19. Install the base valve and valve stack assembly. If
The peening on the shaft must be removed you kept these parts on the wire, they will go on the
properly (photo courtesy of Race Tech). shock in the correct order. I place the wire in the
rebound hole, then slide the parts down onto the shaft.
The nut should be the last part that goes on the shaft.
13. Remove the nut and clean up the threads on the
shaft. Slightly chamfer the end of the shaft and 20. Clean the threads and install the nut with red
inspect the threads. Loctite. Torque the nut to 24 ft/lbs.
14. Use a piece of bent wire and install it in the 21. Hold the shaft assembly up to the light and look at
rebound hole. Then slide the complete valve stack, the valve stack. Check for dirt in the stack, and that
nut, and base valve off onto the wire. These parts the shims are sitting flat against the base valve
MUST BE KEPT IN ORDER and the wire should assembly. Check the crossover gaps between the low
keep them in the correct order. and high speed stacks. If there are any problems
disassemble the stack and look for burrs or dirt on the
15. Clean the shaft assembly in the parts cleaner and base valve or shims.
blow out the rebound hole with compressed air. The
base valve parts which you put on the wire can be 22. Clamp the shock body in a padded vice. Pour
cleaned and blown out with air while they are still on shock oil in the reservoir until it’s about an inch (25
the wire. Do not mess up the order of these parts. mm) from the top.
16. Remove the shock seal assembly, shock body end 23. Install the bladder into the reservoir. Oil should be
cap, bottom out bumper, and spring retainer. Inspect pushed out as the bladder is pushed in. Push the
the shock shaft for wear or missing chrome. Replace bladder down far enough so the circlip can be put in
the bottom out bumper if it is worn. If the shaft is and install the circlip in the groove. Install the air
worn it can be re-chromed by Race Tech. All worn valve in the bladder.
parts can be bought from Race Tech or by contacting
me. 24. Pressurize the bladder with around 40 PSI of air.
The air will inflate the bladder and push oil and air
through the compression adjuster.
3
25. Fill the shock body within one inch (25mm) from
the top. Install the shock shaft assembly into the body.
The shaft should go in smoothly. If it does not call a
suspension specialist.
26. The air must be removed from the shock assembly

before final assembly. To bleed the air, push down on
the shock shaft quickly and then pull it back up
slowly. Forcing the shock down fast will open the
valving and force the air out. Continue doing this
until there is no more air bubbles coming out.
27. Once the air has been bled, extend the shaft almost
out making sure the rebound hole in the shaft does not
suck air. If you hear a sucking noise you extended it
too far and you will have to start the bleeding
procedure all over.
28. Fill the shock body with oil and push the seal head
down. Oil will overflow from the shock. Once the o-
ring on the seal head has sealed on the shock body,
push in the reservoir valve core while still pushing
down on the seal head (two large screwdrivers can be
used for this). Push the seal head into the shock body
until the circlip groove is seen. Install the circlip.
29. Pressurize the reservoir with 20 PSI of air to seat

the seal head. Make sure the seal head is installed
properly and the circlip is holding it into place.
30. Tap the end cap on with a plastic hammer.
31. Put in 120-140 PSI of air in the bladder. Push the

shaft down and watch how it goes back up. It should
not stop or hesitate on the up stroke. It should extend
itself all the way out. A properly working shock will
return smoothly. If there are any problems,
disassemble the shock and inspect for problems. If
there is air in the shock it could cause some of these
problems.
32. Let out the air from the bladder. The air was for
testing only.
Caution:
Air should never be used in shocks since it will
expand with heat and could cause excessive
pressures in the shock resulting in a potential
serious problem.
33. Using nitrogen, pressurize the shock to whatever

specification your service manual recommends. Your
local shop can help you with this.
34. Install the spring and retainer. Adjust the spring

tension to your install free length from step 2.
35. Set the compression and rebound adjusters to the

settings from step 3.
All rights reserved. Copywrited by Doug Jenks.
http://www.motocross.com/motoprof
4 Date Created: June 18, 2001

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KYB and Showa Shock Service

Rebuilding shocks is fairly simple for the

1. Remove the shock from the bike and clean it

2. Measure the installed spring length before removing

My installed spring length is

My low speed compression adjuster is Fig 1

4. Turn the compression and rebound adjusters all the

9. Use a punch and tap the seal head assembly down

7. Pour out the old shock oil through the reservoir.

12. Grind off the peening at the end of the shaft

18. Use a metric thread pitch gage and check the

26. The air must be removed from the shock assembly

29. Pressurize the reservoir with 20 PSI of air to seat

30. Tap the end cap on with a plastic hammer.

31. Put in 120-140 PSI of air in the bladder. Push the

33. Using nitrogen, pressurize the shock to whatever

34. Install the spring and retainer. Adjust the spring

35. Set the compression and rebound adjusters to the

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