Nordwest Service Manual PDF
Nordwest Service Manual PDF
Nordwest Service Manual PDF
NORDWEST
(Nordcape in Germany)
OWNERS CLUB
OF BRITAIN
NOTES:
In addition to this workshop manuals texts and pictures transcribed from original
Piaggio/Gilera manuals, there is included a section on the various known faults with
which the Nordwest/RC600 is prone to suffer. Whilst these faults were obviously
not included in the original official manuals, we believed they should be a part of any
publication dealing with Nordwest/RC600 maintenance.
At the very rear of the manual are 5 pages of additional information, which have
been included to assist you. This additional information was not in the original
manual.
If you find any errors, please email us ([email protected]) so that this manual
can be updated to be as accurate as is possible.
Section
ENGINES
Working procedures 4
Engine removal/installation 5
Generator - Timing belt - Gearbox selector 6
Cylinder head - Valvetrain components 7
Cylinder - Piston 8
Clutch - Primary drive - Oil pump 9
Crankcase - Gearbox - Crankshaft components 10
FRAMES
Working procedures 11
Front Wheel 12
Front suspension - Steering 13
Rear Suspension - Rear wheel 14
Brakes 15
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Battery - Charging circuit 16
Ignition system 17
Electric starter 18
Switches - Horn - Lights 19
Trouble shooting 20
Circuit diagram 21
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION A
Not included in original manual
Section - Page
Long rear engine bolts can seize. Remove the bolts one at a time,
clean off any corrosion and coat them in ‘Copper Slip’ or grease before
refitting. Torque 30Nm.
Tank filler thread can be broken off. Over tightening the tank cap
can cause the threaded part of the tank neck to be pulled off the neck.
Not easy to effect a good repair, but some resins and super glue can be
used and may repair the damage.
Fork seals leak. Seals on upside down forks do not last very well.
Fairly easy to replace. ‘Leak proof’ seals can be used and are
guaranteed and can be pushed in with your fingers. Available from
dealers selling ‘bike bits’ parts.
Body panels crack from fixing screw holes. Remove all screws and
refit one at a time loosely. They must go in without the panel having to be
stretched. If they will not go in, enlarge the holes slightly then all should
fit. Nose crews first, then tank screws, then the big screws in the middle
of the panel. After 228-70862 a revised system of fixing the tank panels
was used to stop the cracking. To update an older bike:
Screws only in the rear fixings to the tank. Spacers under the crescent at
the front of the tank to stop it clamping the panel tight. Cross bar is in two
pieces with rubber washers under fixing bolts. Strips of draught excluder
along top of tank in front of rear panel fixing screws.
Oil filter - was commonly used on older European small cars, particularly
the Renault 4 800/850 1970s & 80s.
Technocar R-15 change every 2nd oil change (ie 8,000km)
Following makes will fit: AC-Delco X13 Champion C116 Fram
PH2874 Techocar R-15 TJ Filters 5300. Note the Motoquipe filter
is a larger diameter and will not fit.
1 - 1,1
Changing Cam belt - Gilera recommend changing the cam belt every
12,000 km. It would probably be safe for a bit longer but it should not be
ignored. You will need a puller for the alternator, but the puller is not
common with other bikes. A pattern puller is available from the Italian
firm of Bazzetti via Venhill (the cable people) part no. Nordwest/RC 5343
38*1.5mm.
Support the bike with a paddock stand, axle stands or whatever you
have. Tank off, spark plug out, cam belt cover off, rocker box covers off,
sprocket cover and gearlever off. Now remove the four screws from the
alternator cover. You will probably not be able to pull it off because it is
a tight fit, so tap it gently around the edge with a hide or nylon hammer
and with a bit of wiggling it should come off. DO NOT LEVER IT WITH A
SCREWDRIVER as you can easily damage the machined faces.
1 - 1,2
When you remove the rotor a woodruff key and three large washers will
fall out. Remove the nut and spring washer from the bolt tensioner then
pull the tensioner wheel off, now you can remove the belt. When you fit
the new belt it is easy to be one tooth out because of the slack, so put the
belt on the crankshaft and work from the front keeping the belt tight as
you fit it first to the exhaust then the inlet.
Use your finger in place of the tensioner and check that the pulley marks
are in the correct place. If OK fit the tensioner and torque the nut to
28-30 Nm.
You can use an OHP (overhead projector pen) or similar to make marks
on the belt and cam wheels. Then you can transfer the marks to the new
belt when the old one is removed. Double check by counting the teeth on
the belt. If the wheels move out of line, you can simply re-align to the
marks on the new belt.
The tensioner spring should have correctly set the belt tension. Be very
careful with the new belt, make sure it is spotlessly clean, do not kink it
and do not use anything other than your (clean) fingers to fit it.
That’s it, now you just put it all back together. The washers behind the
rotor go big washer first with it’s angled edge facing out (away from the
pulley), next the two dished washers, one dish in the next dish out so
they will squash each other a bit as the rotor is tightened home. Copper
Slip the tapper, oil the bolt and don’t forget the woodruff key, torque to 40
Nm.
Late amendment: Rather than putting it in 5th gear and standing on the
footbrake, look through the inspection holes in the rotor where you can
see a convenient casting (about 1 o’clock), so insert a rod through the
inspection hole, to bear on the casting (perfectly safe considering the
relatively small amount of torque involved) , give the bolt a twist and off
comes the rotor. AND/OR use a piece of wood through the rear wheel
resting on the swingarm. The wood being soft doesn’t damage the
spokes and keeps the wheel from moving.
1 - 1,3
Brake fluid
ALL hydraulic brakes on Gilera bikes use DOT 4.
Valve timings
In 12/48 Ex 36/26
with 1mm valve clearance
1 - 1,4
Cables - oiling
Clutch and brake cables used to need oiling regularly with engine oil.
Modern cables are nylon lined and will work for ages with no attention.
When they start to get stiff, lube them with WD40 or similar.
Speedo cables may be nylon lined, if they are you should be able to see
a plastic tube around the inner cable if you look at the end that goes into
the clock. Disconnect the cable at both ends, pull the inner out and clean
it with WD40. Also spray down the outer. Now leave the WD40 to dry,
otherwise it will end up getting in the clock. If it is not nylon lined, pull the
inner out and clean it with a solvent. Once it is dry, lightly grease it all the
way from the bottom to within 2 inches of the top. If you grease it all the
way to the top, grease will work up into the clock.
1 - 1,5
Nordwest tyres
Front 120/70-17R 2.1 bar (30psi) solo, 2.2 bar (32psi) 2-up
Rear 160/60-17R 2.3 bar (33psi) solo, 2.4 bar (35psi) 2-up
1 - 1,6
1 - 1,7
Whenever working with the engine on, never work in closed areas;
always have the area well ventilated due to the toxic gasses (carbon
monoxide) contained in the exhaust.
MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES
Always use original Gilera spare parts and recommended lubricants. The
use on non-original parts or parts not conforming to Gilera specifications
may result in damage to the motorcycle.
Always use the special tools designed specifically for this motorcycle.
Always use new gaskets, O-rings, split pins and safety plates when
reassembling.
Always use metric tools when working on this motorcycle; metric nuts and
bolts are not interchangeable with the British sizes. The use of either
non-metric tools and/or nuts and bolts may cause damage to the
motorcycle.
Arrange all electrical wires as indicated in the “Cables and wire passage”
paragraph.
1 - 2,1
The engine serial number and engine size are stamped on the plate (fig.
1) found at the rear of the engine.
The frame serial number is stamped on steering sleeve left side (fig.3)
Fig. 1 Fig. 2
Fig. 3
1 - 2,2
FRAME
1 - 3,1
TRANSMISSION
1 - 3,2
Main
Choke tube diameter 30
Main jet 155
Idle jet 48
Choke jet 68
Pump jet Ø 1.1
Needle jet notch 5C58/3^
Fuel nozzle Ø 2.60 (VOO)
Throttle valve 4.00
Float
Weight 10.5 g
Level 35 ± 1 mm
This is almost certainly incorrect, we believe it should be 24 ± 2 mm
Secondary (vacuum)
Choke tube diameter 30
Main jet 145
Needle jet/notch 5X7A/3^
Fuel nozzle Ø 2.60 (OO)
Throttle valve 20°
(note that additional carburettor info is on the additions page at rear of manual)
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
1 - 3,3
1 - 3,4
Frame
1 - 3,5
Puller for steering bearing lower race Camshaft pulley blocking tool
19.1.20109 19.1.20504
2.2
2.3
2.4
PROGRAMMED OPERATIONS km
Tightening the engine bolt X X X X X X X
Tightening the cylinder head bolts X - - X - X -
Valve clearance control X - X - X - X
Timing belt tension check X X X - X X -
Timing belt replacement - - - X - - X
Decompression check X - - X - - X
Engine compression check - - X - X - X
Engine idle speed adjustment X X X X X X X
Spark plug check X X - X - X -
Spark plug replacement - - X - X - X
Engine oil replacement X X X X X X X
Oil filter replacement X - X - X - X
Air filter check and cleaning X X - X - X -
Air filter replacement - - X - X - X
Liquid check and fill up X X X X X X X
Rear wheel flexible coupling check - X - X - X -
Brake and clutch check and adjustment X X X X X X X
Sprocket, brake calliper and disc, wheel
X X X X X X X
spindle, chain pinion mounting bolts (*)
Chain check, adjustment, lubrication (if
X X X X X X X
necessary, replace the whole drive) (*)
Brake pads and blocks check, replace if req’d X X X X X X X
Fork oil replacement - - - X - - X
Fork pivot joint tightening check X X X X X X X
Steering bearing play check and lubrication X - X - X - X
Battery charge/electrical system efficiency X X X X X X X
Tyre pressure check X X X X X X X
Fuel level
Turn over carburettor and let float rest on the needle valve’s damper spring
without pressing.
Check distance between bowl gasket seat and uppermost edge of the float
with proper gauge.
Float level = 24 ± 2 mm.
Adjustment is made by bending slightly the float tongue.
Check and adjust idle after having made the necessary engine adjustments.
The engine must be warm in order to set it correctly.
Turn idle adjuster screw until reaching the recommended engine speed.
RPMs at idle: 1300 ÷ 1400 rev/min
The engine oil replacement must be carried out with engine warm.
Remove the oil level and filter cap (fig. 9).
Loosen the oil drain plug (fig. 10) on the bottom left side of the engine, then
remove it carefully not to damage the mesh filter on it. Let the oil drain
completely.
Clean and blow out the mesh filter and then remount it and pour 2 litres of oil
into the filler cap.
Check oil level.
Start the engine, then stop it after an idle period of approx. 1 minute.
If necessary add some oil and check for leaks.
Every two oil changes, it is necessary to replace the filter cartridge; the correct
oil level is reached with 2.2 litres of new oil (remove filter cartridge using
appropriate tool 19.1.20520) (fig. 11).
Install new filter after lubrication of its gasket with engine oil.
Recommended oil: AGIP SAE 15W/40 or AGIP SINT 2000.
3 - 1,1
Check and Adjust the valve clearance when the engine is cold or when the
engine temperature is below 35°C.
Check that the spring compressor device for ignition has a clearance.
Remove the seat.
Remove the fuel tank.
Remove the lid of the timing system on the left side of the engine (fig. 35).
Remove the ignition coil.
Remove the two small lids of the camshafts.
Turn the flywheel so that the reference marks on the gears of the camshafts
are lined up with those on the engine guard and the piston is at TMC (fig. 36).
Check the clearance of all four valves by inserting feeler gauges between the
camshafts and the rocker arm (fig. 37).
Valve clearance: Intake valve 0.05 mm
Exhaust valve 0.10 mm
To set clearance, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw to get a
slight drag on the feeler gauge.
Hold screw steady and tighten the lock nut with appropriate tool 19.1.20522
(fig. 38).
Check clearance.
Assemble components in reverse order of disassembly.
3-2
Place the motorcycle on a support so as to raise the front wheel from the
ground.
Check that the handlebar turns freely from one side to the other.
If the handlebar does not turn freely, it locks, or turns with stiff movements,
especially when the wheel is on an axis with the vehicle, check the steering
sleeve bearings and replace them if necessary.
Check that the control wires do not interfere with the handlebar rotation.
3-3
By operating under the rear mudguard, remove the two screws (A) and from
the rear side, remove the saddle, releasing it from fixing to the tank.
Remove the turn indicator lights and disconnect the relevant connections; the
untighten the screws (B) fixing the side covers to the fuel tank and the two
screws (C) on the radiator lower side; then proceeding carefully, remove from
the front side, the side covers; in case, in order to facilitate the outlet, widen
the side covers.
In order to remove the mudguard, untighten the 8 screws (D) (4 for each side),
fixing the fork stand to the mudguard, then remove the mudguard.
Loosen and remove the five screws (E) fixing the fork stand cover to the fork.
Remove each side small covers by untightening the four fixing screws (F).
Remove the rear mudguard together with the wheel protection and the tail light
support, untightening the six screws fixing to the frame.
3-4
Remove the fairing, the saddle, the fuel tank and the side covers by
untightening the relevant screws.
Loosen the intake manifolds clamp to the cylinder head and to intake manifold
sleeve from filter box.
In order to pull out the carburettor from cylinder head intake sleeves, remove
the carburettor carefully.
Never force between the intake sleeves and carburettor.
Remove the carburettor by pulling it out sideways.
Remove the float chamber (A) by untightening the fixing screws (B).
Check that each float (C) is not damaged.
Check that each needle valve housing (D) is not worn or damaged.
Remove and clean, by means of compressed air, all the jets.
Place all jets on the carburettor.
Fit the float chambers.
Fit the carburettor and the intake sleeves as well as the air filter box clamps.
Fit the fuel tank.
Fit the side covers and the saddle.
Check the choke, the idle RPM and the mixing screw opening.
Warning
In order to clean the jets as well as the carefully gauged parts, never use
sharp tools or metal cables. For a better cleaning operation don’t use
pure gasoline but it is advisable to use the “CHIMEC HITEC 4420” prod-
uct, drying by means of compressed air.
3-5
After the saddle removal, untighten the filter box cover screws.
Remove the air filter from the filter box.
Using a cloth, clean the filter box internal side.
Wring out the filter, assuring that you don’t twist it.
Using clean water, rinse out the filter and then let it dry completely.
Saturate the filter with “BEL RAY MC6-FOAMFILTER OIL (or exceptionally,
with gearbox oil SAE 90).
Spread a thin coating of grease on filter lips leaning on filter box and fit it op-
erating in the reverse order of disassembly.
SPARK PLUG
DECOMPRESSION SYSTEM
After the timing left side cover removal, check the decrompressor control
transmission.
The (D) lever (fig. 62) must be separate from the pin (C) not more than 1.5 mm.
The sheath (E) (fig. 61) in its housing must be free of play; in case act on
adjusting nut (F).
3-6
In order to carry out this operation, remove the cover located on cylinder head
left side. Loosen the belt tensioner nut (A) and, by means of kick lever, rotate
the belt until the piston is at TDC point (compression position - fully closed
valves).
The spring fixed on both sides (B - C pins), will automatically arrange for the
belt charging, restoring the correct tension.
Tighten the nut (A) to the appropriate torque (28 ÷ 30 Kgm).
Warning:
Never rotate the timing pullies acting on the relevant fixing screws.
TRANSMISSION
Assure that the throttle transmission grip rotate freely when steering on both
sides.
Check the grip free play (standard ply: 4 mm) (Fig. 63).
In case restore the correct play by operating on the adjusting screw (over the
carburettor).
Clutch
3-7
The front brake is free of any regulation. It is advisable to verify, every 4,000
km the hydraulic fluid level on the master cylinder tank (fig. 63).
Make sure that there are no leakages on brake system and that the pipes and
connections are free from damage.
In case the hydraulic fluid is under the lower position, remove the master
cylinder tank cover and fill with hydraulic fluid “DOT 4.” Change the hydraulic
fluid every two years.
The front brake control lever free play: about 4 mm (fig. 63).
Rear brake
Push the brake pedal link towards the master cylinder with a finger pressure
and, acting on the adjusting screw, regulate the reserve travel on the rod
(1 mm).
TRANSMISSION CHAIN
This operation have to be carried out with unloaded vehicle, and, in order to
check the rim gear excessive eccentricity, in vertical position. The chain lower
side, pushed upwards, at mid-point between the pinion and rim gear, must give
a total arrow of 35 ÷ 40 mm.
If the chain becomes loose, the chain links are damaged. It is advisable to
check very often the chain links, rollers and rim gear teeth condition.
Whenever the above mentioned parts are worn or warped, it is necessary to
replace them (fig. 65).
Warning
Never fit a new chain on a worn pinion and rim gear or the contrary.
Whenever one single transmission is worn, it is necessary to replace all
three transmission components.
The chain junction link locking pin must be fitted with the closed side
towards the direction of chain rotation. Never operate modification on
original chain: Never open a closed chain (without link).
3-8
Front suspension
The telescopic fork does not need any particular care. Check periodically its
efficiency by jamming on the front brake and by moving the fork up and down,
like a pumping movement. The suspension functioning should be smooth and
without leaks or oil blow-by.
Ensure that all the suspension jointing components are securely tightened.
Rear suspension
Warning
In order to avoid an eventual oil leakage, when carrying out the servicing
operations, never touch the valve regulating the gas pressure.
3-9
INTENTIONALLY BLANK
Section - Page
5-1
Loosen and remove the plug in order to drain the engine oil.
Remove the radiator plug and loosen the screws on thermostat; then drain the
coolant liquid.
Loosen and remove the carburettor to cylinder head intake sleeves securing
clamps.
Disconnect the rear brake pedal.
Remove the chain pinion protection.
5-2
5-3
Section - Page
Disassembly 6-1
Inspection 6-2
Reassembly 6-2
Valve timing 6-2
Torque wrench settings 6-3
6 - 1,1
REASSEMBLY
Replace the block’s left side cover gasket and the O-ring found behind the final
drive pinion.
Mount the pinion mounting bolt spring washer, of the freewheel starter group
and generator rotor, with the convex side facing out.
The two pinion mounting bolt spring washers, found behind the generator
rotor, and the timing belt’s large guide washer must be mounted as shown in
fig. 17.
The gap between the pick-up and rotor plate must be between 0.4 and 0.5
mm.
The drum selector control device may be adjusted if necessary. Select either
2nd, 3rd or 4th gear and verify that (in the rest position) either extremity of the
lever is at the same distance to the drum’s adjacent drag grain. Adjustment is
made by turning the cam screw (on the lever) after having loosened the lock
nut.
VALVE TIMING
Put piston at TDC (indicated by aligning the reference mark on the generator
rotor with the fixed mark, as shown in fig. 18.
Place the camshafts with their reference marks facing as shown in fig. 19.
This operation must be carried out without actuating the valves (rotate it clock-
wise or counter-clockwise as necessary).
Install the timing belt and take up the slack with the tensioner pulley.
After loosening the fastening nut, the calibrated spring will set the tensioner
pulley automatically. Be sure to let the belt align on the cam pulleys by turning
the crankshaft several times prior to fastening the nut.
After having fastened the nut, make sure the pulley reference marks align with
the fixed ones. Torque the nut to between 28 and 30 Nm.
Always replace the timing belt according to the scheduled maintenance (every
12,000 km).
The timing belt is never to come in contact with oil, petrol or grease and is to
be handled with clean hands only. Avoid bending or twisting the belt.
The belt must be installed by hand, that is, do not use screwdrivers or other
tools.
6-2
6-3
Section - Page
Diagram 7-1
Disassembly 7-2
Inspection 7-2
Reassembly 7-3
Torque wrench settings 7-3
Pull off the water passage coupler mounted on the right side of the head and
remove the O-ring found under the coupler fitting (fig. 1).
Remove timing belt cover; loosen idle roller nut and position the idle roller in
such a way as to permit the belt to come off the two cam pulleys (fig. 2).
Loosen the cylinder head nuts gradually and uniformly. This operation must
be executed in a diagonal crossed sequence.
Remove the head by carefully lifting it from its cylinder. If necessary loosen
the head by hitting it with a plastic mallet (fig. 3).
Block the two camshaft pulleys with special tool 19.1.00504, then loosen the
pulley bolts. Remove bolts with its washers and pull off the pulleys (figs. 4-5).
Remove the cover plate of the rocker arm shaft retainer bushing (fig. 6).
Remove the cylinder head cover and remove the camshafts with their oil seals
(figs. 7-8)
Remove the valve lifter device (found on the left hand side of head, near the
exhaust valve) by extracting the retainer pin (fig. 9). The little shaft together
with the lifter may now be dismantled by hand.
Extract the retainer bushing and intake rocker arm shaft (use an 8mm bolt with
a 1.25 pitch) and remove the two rocker arms together with spacer washers
and spring. Repeat same procedure for the exhaust side (fig. 10).
Compress each valve spring with special tool 19.1.20519, by pressing on
spring retainer with enough pressure to remove the collets. Next, remove the
spring retainer and the two outer/inner springs (figs. 11-12).
Slide out the valve from the guide; remove the oil seal (found on the upper
part of the guide and spring seat). Repeat same procedure for the other
valves (fig. 13).
Loosen nut and remove the belt tensioner pulley and spring (fig. 14).
7 - 2,1
Head
Scrape the surface and remove traces of head gasket and remove all carbon
deposit in the combustion chamber. Be certain that all contact surfaces are in
good condition and that the combustion chamber shows no sign of cracks or
deep scratches (especially around the valve seats).
Check that the head surface is not warped by means of a straight gauge.
Max. planning error = 0.05 mm.
The surface may be planed to a max. of 0.2 mm if necessary.
Caution: do not machine the top surface of the head: this may cause the
shafts to lock.
Valves
Valve stems and seats must be in good condition.
Make sure that end of the stem doesn’t show signs of excessive wear.
In the event of valve seat wear, resurface by grinding.
Check that the valve stem is straight.
Max. straightness error allowed = 0.01 mm (fig. 15).
The face must be radial with respect to the stem (fig. 16).
Valve seat must be in good shape, with no sign of pitting, cracking or corrosion
Springs
After visual inspection of the springs and valves, measure the length of each
spring with a gauge (fig. 17).
Allowed values: Outer spring 38.7 ÷ 39.7 mm
Inner spring 37.6 ÷ 38.6 mm
Rocker arms
Make sure the runners (where the camshaft lobes hit against) are in good
condition and don’t have deep scratches, grooves or the like. Check for
excessive gap between rocker arm and shaft.
Max, gap = 0.08 mm
Camshaft
Make sure the camshaft lobes are in good condition, with no sign of damage or
Wear. Measure the height of each lobe. Check cam height on both sides; the
difference between both readings should not exceed 0.1 mm (fig. 18).
Check for excessive gap of the camshaft journals in their respective supports.
Max. radial clearance = 0.1 mm
7 - 2,4
7-3
Section - Page
Diagram 8-1
Disassembly 8-2
Inspection 8-2
Reassembly 8-2
Remove the head group, gasket and rubber anti-vibration devises, as de-
scribed in section 7.
Remove the water pump, found on the left of the cylinder (fig. 1).
Remove the thermostat’s housing on the front of the cylinder (fig. 2).
Lift the cylinder by hand. If necessary, use a plastic or rubber mallet to break
the seal (fig. 3).
After having removed the cylinder, cover the opening of the crankcase with pa-
per or clean cloth, then remove the gudgeon pin lockring (fig. 4) and slide out
pin using special tool 19.1.20530 as a punch.
If necessary use a mallet (remember to support the piston on the other side)
(fig. 5).
Remove the base gasket of the cylinder and the rubber O-ring, found around
the oil feed line (fig. 6).
INSPECTION
Cylinder
Piston
8 - 2,1
Gudgeon pin
Make sure the gudgeon pin doesn’t have an excessive radial clearance, both
around the connecting rod and piston.
Max. clearance piston / gudgeon pin = 0.06 mm
Max. clearance small end / gudgeon pin = 0.08 mm
For the most part, a satisfactory check can be carried out by sliding the gud-
geon pin (with little effort and no lubrication) into the piston and the same gud-
geon pin must not slide out by its own weight.
REASSEMBLY
8 - 2,3
Section - Page
Diagram 9-1
Disassembly 9-2
Inspection 9-2
Reassembly 9-3
Torque wrench setting 9-3
7 - 1,5
INSPECTION
After a thorough cleaning of all parts, inspect all components carefully. All
those parts that show sign of wear and/or damage must be replaced. All gears
must be in good condition, with no sign of wear, deep scratches or pitting.
Clutch
9 - 2,1
Mount the clutch drum by inserting the oil pump pawl guide into its seat.
The clutch drive plates are installed with the arrow (imprinted on the friction
material) facing out.
Install the spring washers with the convex side facing out.
Oil all washers, gear mounting bolt threads and clutch hub, prior to assembly.
9-3
Section - Page
Diagram 10 - 1
Disassembly 10 - 2
Inspection 10 - 3
Reassembly 10 - 3
Torque wrench settings 10 - 3
10
Make sure all necessary components are removed, then remove all bolts that
join the two halves of the cases. Open the crankcase and if necessary use a
plastic or rubber mallet to loosen it (carefully hit at the joint of the cases and/or
at the end of the gearbox shafts).
When separating the cases (fig. 1), check to see if a spacer washer (from one
of the shafts) has fallen out; reinstall if necessary.
Slide out the gear selector fork shaft and remove the forks (fig. 2).
Remove the selector drum, balance shaft and the two gear train shafts (figs. 3-
4-5).
Remove crankshaft with connecting rod (fig. 6). Loosen the nuts of the
connecting rod caps and remove the connecting rod from the shaft (fig. 7).
10 - 2,1
Crankshaft
Connecting rod
Install the half bearings and mount the connecting rod cap by tightening the
nuts to the proper torque setting (28 to 32 Nm). Measure the internal
diameter of the bearing with a micrometer.
Once the bearing and shaft journal diameter is known, it is possible to
calculate the radial clearance of the two components.
Clearance at mounting: 0.017 to 0.060 mm.
Max. clearance: 0.14 mm.
If it is necessary to replace the wrist pin, use special tool 19.1.20506 for
removal; to install use special tool 19.1.20505. Be careful to align the pin
lubrication hole with the one in the small end.
Connecting rod cap radial gap must be between 0.15 ÷ 0.25 mm.
Note the fitting of the connecting rod cap; mount the connecting rod in the
same direction it was taken out.
Gearbox
Make sure the selector forks aren’t bent and move freely on their shaft and that
there is a minimum clearance in each of the guide bolts inside the slot of the
selector drum.
Verify that the gap between the fork and gear train slot isn’t excessive.
Check carefully the condition of the gear train and be sure that the mainshaft,
transmission and fork shafts are perfectly straight.
Max. straightness error = 0.05 mm
10 - 3,1
REASSEMBLY
Crankshaft, balance shaft and gears are all mounted in the left crankcase.
Use Loctite 574 on the contact surface of the two cases.
The crankshaft thrust ring is installed in the right case (with the antifriction
surface side facing the shaft) and so is the selector drum spacer washer. Hold
these components in with a little grease.
Crankshaft axial clearance must be between 0.05 and 0.25 mm; if necessary
replace worn thrust rings with new ones.
To mount the oil seals, use a proper hollow punch; be careful not to damage
the lip seal by pits or grooves on the shaft (in such cases, it is best to use a
conical guide protection).
Oil the oil seal lips with engine oil.
10 - 3,2
Section
Working procedures 11
Front wheel 12
Front suspension - Steering 13
Rear suspension - Rear wheel 14
Brakes 15
All operations must be carried out in a precise order; mark all components to
be removed one at a time, or place them in separate containers so as to mount
them in the same position as prior to disassembly.
Spring washers must always be installed with the convex side facing out.
11
Section - Page
Diagram 12 - 1
Disassembly 12 - 2
Reassembly 12 - 2
Technical data 12 - 3
Trouble shooting 12 - 4
12
Warning: After the wheel removal, never move the front brake lever.
This is to facilitate, when installing, the disc fitting into the pads.
Place the spindle on two “V” shaped supports, then, by means of a gauge,
measure its eccentricity (fig. 13).
Allowable limit: 0.20 mm.
Rim
Place the wheel on a centering bench, then check rim centering. Rotate the
wheel by hand, then, by means of a gauge, note the out centering value with a
gauge (fig. 14).
Allowable limit: Radial variation 2.00 mm. Axial variation 2.00 mm.
Bearing inspection
Rotate, with a finger, each bearing inner race. The bearings must turn
smoothly and without noise, assure that the outer race is correctly housed on
wheel hub.
In case that the bearing races don’t turn freely and without noise, remove and
replace the bearings.
Bearing dismantling
12 - 2
Fill, with grease, the bearing housing. First insert the right side bearing, then
the spacer and, finally, the left side bearing.
Apply grease inside to the dust protection seal. Fit the dust protection seal.
Install the tachometer gear seal into the wheel hub, aligning the tags with the
grooves. Fill with grease the tachometer gear box, then fit the box on the
wheel hub, aligning the tags with the grooves.
WHEEL INSTALLATION
Pay attention to don’t damage the brake pads when fitting the calliper on brake
disc. Prior to fit the wheel spindle, clean carefully.
Lightly tighten the nuts securing the spindle caps.
TECHNICAL DATA
Allowable limit:
Wheel spindle runout 0.2 mm.
Wheel rim centering limit 2 mm. 12 - 3
Stiff steering:
Bent rim.
Worn front wheel bearings.
Damaged tyre.
Incorrectly torqued wheel spindle.
The use of a proper support is necessary when working on the front wheel or
forks.
12 - 4
Section - Page
Handlebar 13 - 1
Steering sleeve 13 - 2
Trouble shooting 13 - 3
Paioli fork 13 - 4
13
HANDLEBAR
Removal
Remove the clamps, the clutch lever, the front brake master cylinder, lights,
switches and throttle grip.
Remove the upper plates, caps and the handlebar (fig. 31).
Installation
Check that the rubber washers, placed between the fork upper plate and the
handlebar lower supports, are not worn. In case, replace them.
Apply a thin layer of grease on the sliding surface of the throttle grip and on the
throttle control box and slide the grip along the handlebar.
13 - 1
After disassembling the fairing components, the wheel; and the handlebar, dis-
connect the electrical connections, then:
In case of road accident, check for cracks around the motorcycle steering
head.
By means of the special tool 19.1.20109, remove the lower bearing race from
the steering sleeve.
Using an hydraulic press, fit a new bearing.
Install the steering sleeve into its housing then fit the upper bearing.
Tighten the steering nut.
Turn, several times, the steering from one to other side, then tighten again the
adjusting ring nut; finally check that the steering rotates freely.
Fit the fork upper plate, the washer and nut, tightening them to the appropriate
torque.
Install all the components in reverse order of disassembly.
13 - 2
Stiff steering:
Deformed rim.
Loose or worn wheel bearings.
Defective tyre.
Wrong tyre pressure.
Slack and/or deformed spokes.
Slack wheel spindle.
Incorrect wheel balancing.
When working on front wheel or front forks, support suitably the motorcycle.
13 - 3
After the front fairing parts removal, remove the upper and lower screws fixing
the stanchion to the fork plates, then remove the stanchion.
Loosen the upper plug “A” then, when holding the plug, untighten the inner
stanchion locking nut “B” and overturn the leg, draining the oil.
Slide out the dust protection “C” and the lock ring;
Place the leg in a vice and, forcing, pull it out.
After the leg has been pulled out, on force tube “F” will remain the following
parts: oil seal “D”, the washer, the DU leg “E”.
INSTALLATION
Fit on tube “F” the hydraulic seal system (parts “D-F-E”0 paying attention to the
correct fitting position.
By means of the special tool 19.1.20598, press the different components in
their housing, paying attention that the special tool doesn’t push the seal lip.
Fully tighten the lock nut “B” then screw the plug “A” to the torque 2 Kgm.
Extend completely the fork, then screw the plug “A” on the leg.
After the parts “A” and “B” removal, using the special tool 19.1.20599, loosen
the plug “G”.
Slide out the rod “H” together with the plug, spring and the mechanical piston.
Remove the spring “L” then wash the tube inner side.
When fitting, operate on reverse order of disassembly, locking the plug “G” to
the torque 4 Kgm.
After the parts “A” and “B” removal, using the special tool 19.1.20599, loosen
the plug “M” then slide out the inner rod “N” together with hydraulic cartridge
“O”.
Drain the oil.
Remove the lock ring, loosen the plugs “P” and “Q”.
Remove the spring pin “Z” fixing the plug “R”.
Slide out rod “N”.
13 - 4,1
Installation (fig.36)
Insert the rod “N” together with the thin plates into the hydraulic cartridge “O”.
Fit on the rod the lower plug “Q” together with the relevant bushing, then install
the lock ring.
Tighten the plug “P” into the plug “Q”, the inner bushing must slide freely.
Tighten the plug “R”, paying attention to align the spring pin hole with the
hydraulic cartridge hole “Z”.
Insert a new spring ring, sticking out about 3 ÷ 4 mm.
Insert the complete hydraulic cartridge, then, by means of the appropriate tool,
screw the plug “M”.
13 - 4,2
Section - Page
Troubleshooting 14 - 1
Wheel 14 - 1
Rear damper 14 - 2
Final drive 14 - 3
14
14 - 1
Technical data
Shock absorber Gas Press.
Azota
Boghe 15 atm.
/Air
14 - 2
Drive chain
Inspect carefully the teeth on both the drive and driven sprockets and check
the condition of the chain (fig. 4).
Replace any component that shows signs of excessive wear, deformation or
other damage.
Chain check
14 - 3,1
If a part of the chain or the drive/driven sprockets show signs of wear, replace
components.
Check chain stiffness; if it is stiff, then clean with appropriate products or diesel
fuel and let dry thoroughly. Avoid “knots” and replace if chain remains stiff.
Check for possible damage to the side plates and for excessive play in the
pins and rollers. Replace chain if any damage is discovered.
Lubricate the chain with highly viscous oil (AGIP ROTRA SAE 80W/90) upon
installation and adjust for proper tension.
Caution:
Never install a new chain on worn sprockets or a worn chain on new sprockets
as the new components will wear quickly.
14 - 3,2
Section - Page
Working procedures 15 - 1
Trouble shooting 15 - 1
Master cylinder 15 - 2
Calliper 15 - 3
Disc 15 - 3
Pad replacement 15 - 5
15
Fluid drainage
Connect a tube to the bleeder valve.
Loosen the bleeder valve and pump with lever.
Stop pumping when no more fluid flows out of the bleeder valve.
Brake fluid spilled on the disc or pads will reduce braking capability. If this
should happen, throw away the pads and clean the disc thoroughly with a
proper solvent.
During the bleeding phase, always check fluid level to avoid getting air into the
master cylinder in the event of fluid depletion.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Brakes drag
Blocked hydraulic circuit.
Frozen pistons.
15 - 1
Removal
Check
Check that the master cylinder piston and cylinder don’t presents any linings
(fig. 30).
Piston outer diameter (fig. 31).
Wear limit allowable: 0.05 mm.
Prior to reassembly, check that the seals are not damaged.
Warning
Piston, master cylinder body and spring are not available as separate parts.
Installation
15 - 2
Removal
Place a clean container under the calliper, then disconnect the brake pipe.
Pay attention that brake fluid does not come in contact with painted parts.
Remove the calliper by loosening the securing screws to the fork (fig. 32) and
to the plate secured to the fork (fig. 33).
Remove the brake pads.
In order to facilitate the small pistons removal, blow compressed air into the
brake fluid inlet.
Check that the small pistons and the calliper are not damaged, in case,
replace.
In order to remove the piston oil seals, push towards the calliper inner side the
pistons oil seal.
By means of brake fluid, clean the piston grooves, paying attention to not dam-
age the piston sliding surfaces (on the calliper inner section).
Pistons check
Installation
DISC
Measure the brake disc thickness. Allowable wear limit 20% of the original
thickness (see technical data section 1).
Check the brake disc planarity (fig. 36).
Allowable oscillation limit: 0.15 mm.
15 - 3
15 - 4
In order to obtain the correct pressure, always replace both pads together.
Warning
Always use GILERA original parts.
Grease on brake linings reduce he brake’s performance.
15 - 5
Section - Page
Battery voltage 16 - 1
Battery charging 16 - 1
Charging circuit 16 - 1
Troubleshooting 16 - 2
Battery removal 16 - 2
Battery installation 16 - 2
16
With the engine on “OFF” position, place the voltmeter red colour lead on the
battery positive (+) terminal and the black colour lead on the battery negative
(-) terminal. Battery voltage should be 12 ÷ 13 V.
When battery voltage is lower than 11 V, check the charging system.
Warning:
When the battery voltage is lower than 6 V, automatically a device will
stop the ignition.
BATTERY CHARGING
CHARGING SYSTEM
Leakages checks
Before the following check procedures, ensure that the battery is in working
condition.
Warm up the engine.
Remove the saddle.
Connect the voltmeter (fig. 2).
Keep engine running at idle speed.
Slowly increase engine speed.
The regulated voltage should be 13.5 ÷ 14 V.
If the voltmeter indicates a different voltage, check the eventual wires for
disconnection or breaks.
If the wires are in perfect condition, replace the regulator rectifier and repeat
the same check. If voltage is still incorrect, check the alternator stator coil.
16 - 1,1
Rectifier check
It is a three-phase rectifier.
Check the diode’s efficiency by disconnecting the connector end (fig. 3).
Connect the positive (+) prod of the ohmmeter to the red wire and the negative
(-) one to the white wires (one at a time) (fig. 4). With efficient diodes, the
pointer should not move.
The same operation must be carried out on the black wire and the positive (+)
prod on the white wires (always one at a time). With efficient diodes, the
pointer should not move.
If during the test, the ohmmeter’s pointer moves, this means that the diode
considered is short-circuited.
To check if one of the diodes is discontinued, repeat same operation being
careful to reverse the prods of the ohmmeter and checking that the pointer
shows a resistance of 1000 ÷ 1500 Ω.
16 - 1,2
16 - 1,3
The electrolyte level must be checked periodically; top up with distilled water if
necessary.
Remove the battery from the frame when charging.
Keep battery away from sparks and flames due to the hydrogen produced by
the battery.
All charging components may be tested without removal.
TROUBLESHOOTING
BATTERY REMOVAL
Remove seat.
Remove the battery securing rubber band.
Disconnect the battery’s negative (-) and then positive (+) terminals.
Remove the battery.
Battery inspection
Check each element with a hydrometer.
Specific gravity: 1,270 ÷ 1,290 at 20°C.
If the specific gravity is under 1,230 the battery must be charged; specific
gravity varies according to temperature.
Replace battery if there is sulfation and if the space between the plates is full
of sediments.
Note:
The battery’s electrolyte contains sulphuric acid.
Always protect they eyes, skin and clothes. If electrolyte gets in the yes, flush
thoroughly with water and seek expert medical advice.
16 - 2,1
16 - 2,2
Section - Page
Capacity discharge ignition
Description 17 - 1
Inspection 17 - 2
Spark plug 17 - 2
Troubleshooting 17 - 3
17
Description
Flywheel magneto
The C.D.I. Box is an electronic device which arranges, by means of the pick-up
signal, to generate the pulse tension to the HT coil primary windings.
HT coil
Revolution reductor
Spark plug
Warning
Take note that no possibility to regulate the spark advance, being the fact
that the electronic control unit has not any adjusting device.
In case of incorrect spark advance, check the electronic control unit, the
ignition coil and the alternator.
17 - 1
17 - 2,1
Measure the resistance between the electrical wire terminal and the high
tension wire without spark plug cap.
Standard value: 9.2 kΩ ± 10% at 20°C (fig. 4).
If the ohmic value is very different from the standard value, replace the coil.
Spark plug
Check spark plug condition: in case it is
overheated, fouled or worn, replace it.
Measure electrode gap;
Gap 0.6 ÷ 0.7 mm.
If it is out of specification, clean and adjust it.
Spark plug must be checked every 1,000 km and replaced every 8,000 km.
Warning: The spark plug use, having different heat ranges or incorrect
thread, may cause serious damages to the engine.
17 - 2,2
17 - 3
Description
The ignition system is inductive discharge type. This ignition system consists
of a control unit and HT coil. The impulsive tension is generated by control
unit; this control unit is supplied by the battery.
The pick-up signal is sent to the control unit.
Control unit
All the timings, spark advance, revolution reductor operations are carried out
by a microprocessor.
HT coil
Spark plug
Warning
Take note that no possibility to regulate the spark advance, being the fact
that the electronic control unit has not any adjusting device.
In case of incorrect spark advance, check the electronic control unit, the
ignition coil and the alternator.
17 - 4
HT Coil test
Remove the petrol tank and seat.
Disconnect the electrical wires and spark plug cap.
Measure the resistance between ignition coil terminal + and -
Standard resistance: 4.0 Ω ±10% at 20°C.
If there is no continuity, replace coil.
Measure the resistance between the electrical wire terminal and the high
tension wire without spark plug cap.
Standard value: 13.8 kΩ ± 10% at 20°C (fig. 4).
If the ohmic value is very different from the standard value, replace the coil.
17 - 5,1
Spark plug
Check spark plug condition: in case it is
overheated, fouled or worn, replace it.
Measure electrode gap;
Gap 0.6 ÷ 0.7 mm.
If it is out of specification, clean and adjust it.
Spark plug must be checked every 1,000 km and replaced every 8,000 km.
Warning: The spark plug use, having different heat ranges or incorrect
thread, may cause serious damages to the engine.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Attention: If the battery tension is lower than 6 V, the engine won’t start
due to a special device.
17 - 5,2
Section - Page
Starter motor 18 - 1
Casing insulation check 18 - 1
Troubleshooting 18 - 1
18
Removal
The electric starter may be removed with the engine in the frame.
Put ignition switch in the “OFF” position and disconnect the battery’s
negative (-) cable prior to starter motor maintenance.
Disconnect the starter’s cable.
Loosen the starter’s mounting bolts and remove the starter.
Remove the starter’s cover nuts and disassemble it completely (fig. 1).
Mark the position and the number of spacer washers.
Check the brushes and measure their length.
Check that the armature segments don’t show signs of overheating.
If the segments show signs of overheating in pairs, the windings are
leaking to ground.
Check the continuity in pairs of segments; there must be continuity
(fig. 2).
Check for continuity between the single segments and armature shaft;
there must not be continuity (fig. 3).
TROUBLESHOOTING
Starter motor doesn’t turn:
Weak battery
Ignition switch is defective
Starter motor switch is defective
Starter motor contactor is defective
Loose or disconnected wires or electrical cables
18 - 1,2
Section - Page
Working procedures 19 - 1
Instruments 19 - 1
Headlamp 19 - 1
Tail lamp 19 - 1
Turn signal indicators 19 - 1
Neutral switch 19 - 1
Temperature indicator 19 - 2
Oil pressure sensor 19 - 2
Reserve fuel indicator 19 - 2
Thermoswitch 19 - 2
Brake light switches 19 - 2
Horn 19 - 2
Troubleshooting 19 - 2
19
INSTRUMENTS
Remove the fairing and headlamp.
Disconnect the tachometer cable.
Disconnect the speedometer cable.
Remove the instruments mounting nuts.
Disconnect the instruments connector wires (fig. 1).
Remove the bulb sockets and replace the burned bulbs.
Remount the instrumentation in reverse order of disassembly.
HEADLAMP
Remove the fairing mounting bolts.
Remove the headlamp fairing, optic group and disconnect the bulb wires.
Remove the bulb cover and replace if necessary (fig. 2)
Remove the bulb holder with the “TOP” marking facing up.
Connect the wires to the bulbs.
Install the headlamp and fairing and fasten with its mounting bolts.
Adjust the position of the headlamp.
TAIL LAMP
Remove the rear lens cover screws.
Replace with new bulb if necessary (fig. 3).
Install rear lens cover.
NEUTRAL SWITCH
Disconnect the neutral switch connector.
Check for continuity between the wire and ground for each gear
selection.
The switch is working properly when there is continuity in the neutral
position and no continuity in any other gear.
19 - 1,1
Disconnect the wire from the temperature sensor and ground it.
Turn the ignition switch to “ON”; the needle on the temperature indicator
must move to the “H” side (red). Do not ground the temperature sensor
wire for more than a few seconds or there may be damage to the
temperature gauge.
THERMOSWITCH
19 - 2,1
Front
Disconnect the switch wires and check for continuity.
The switch is working properly when there is continuity while actuating
the brake.
Rear
Disconnect the switch coupler and check for continuity in the wires.
The switch is working properly when there is continuity when actuating
the rear brake lever.
HORN
TROUBLESHOOTING
19 - 2,2
Section - Page
20
20 - 1
20 - 2,1
20 - 2,2
20 - 3
Section - Page
21
21 - 1,1
21 - 2,1
21 - 3,1
The Nordwest was derived from the RC600 (1991 spec). Many parts are
common and basically by changing the wheels, forks, rear shock and
brakes, the bike was transformed from serious trail bike to serious street
fighter with excellent performance on the tarmac.
Frame no. 228 ………… (stamped into left side of frame head stock).
Engine no. 227 ………… (plate on top of gearbox, behind cylinder).
A1
Capacitive Discharge:
Recognisable by; 6 wires from ignition switch, separate rev limiter box
(pink and green wires), 9 wires from ignition box, 3 groups of wires from
alternator, 2 fuses.
Charger coil: Part of stator part no. 324471
Resistance test: 218 ohms + 10% (pink and green)
Pick-up coil: Part no. 324433
Resistance test: 117 ohms + 10% (white/green - yellow/black)
117 ohms + 10% (yellow/blue - yellow/black)
HT coil: Part no. 328647
Primary res: 0.2 - 0.3 ohm + 10% (white/light blue - black)
Secondary res: 9.2 K ohms + 10% (white/light blue - HT)
Inductive Discharge:
Recognisable by; 4 wires from ignition switch, no separate rev limiter,
7 wires from ignition box, 2 groups of wires from alternator, 3 fuses.
Because the Inductive system gets its power from the battery, if the
battery is getting flat (below 6 V), the control box will disable the ignition
to protect the circuit. The motor may turn, but engine will not start / no
spark.
Pick-up coil: Part no. 947125
Resistance test: 150 ohms + 10% (yellow/black - yellow/dark blue)
HT coil: Part no. 946789
Primary res: 4.0 ohms + 10% (white/light blue - red/dark blue)
Secondary res: 13.8 K ohms + 10% (red/dark blue - HT)
Timing: 7 deg (static). 30 deg at 4,000 rpm not adjustable
A2
Fuses:
Capacitive Ignition 2 X 15w
Inductive Ignition 1 X 20w, 1 X 15w, 1 X 7.5w
Front brake disc: Twin semi floating discs part no. 946052
Diameter: 270 mm
Thickness (new): 5.0 mm
Wear limit: 4.0 mm
Planarity limit: 0.15 mm
A3
Engine:
Bore & stroke: 98 X 74 mm
Capacity: 597.9 cc
Compression ratio: 10.5 : 1
Compression test: 10 to 12 bar (new), 9 to 11 bar (over 5,000 km)
BHP: 49.5 bhp at 7,250 rpm (claimed)
Torque: 52 Nm at 6,250 rpm (claimed)
Oil: 10W40 semi synthetic
Oil capacity: 2.2 ltrs
Oil filter: Technocar R15 part no. 321205
(Most Renault 4 filters will fit)
Valves:
Inlet diameter: 36 mm (X 2)
Exhaust diameter: 32 mm (X 2)
Clearance inlet: 0.05 mm (cold)
exhaust: 0.10 mm (cold)
A4