instructables

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply

by Luq1308

For my first Instructable, I'm going to show you how I them due to non-sinusoidal output but you can fix this
made this portable power supply. There are many by using pure sine wave inverter, which is much more
terms for this kind of device like power bank, power expensive than the standard modified sine wave
station, solar generator and many other but I prefer inverter I used here. They're generally bigger too.
the name "Listrik L585 Portable Power Supply".
The second output is USB output. There are 8 USB
The Listrik L585 has built-in 585Wh (6S 22.2V ports, which kinda overkill. A pair of them can deliver
26,364mAh, tested) lithium battery which can really maximum current of 3A continuous. Synchronous
last. It's also quite lightweight for the given capacity. If rectification makes it very efficient.
you want to compare it with typical customer power
bank, you can do it easily by dividing the mAh rating The third one is auxiliary I/O. It can be used to charge
or discharge the internal battery at maximum rate of
Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 1
 or discharge the internal battery at maximum rate of
by 1,000 then multiply it by 3.7. For example, the 15A (300W+) continuous and 25A (500W+)
PowerHouse (one of the biggest well-known instantaneous. It doesn't have any regulation,
consumer power bank) has capacity of 120,000mAh. basically just plain battery voltage but it does have
Now, let's do the math. 120,000 / 1,000 * 3.7 = multiple protections including short-circuit,
444Wh. 444Wh VS 585Wh. Easy isn't it? overcurrent, overcharge and overdischarge.

Everything is packed inside this nice aluminum The last one and my favorite one is adjustable DC
briefcase. This way, the Listrik L585 can be carried output, which can output 0-32V, 0-5A on all voltage
easily and the top cover will protect the sensitive range. It can power very wide variety of DC
instruments inside while being unused. I got this idea appliances like typical laptop with 19V output, internet
after I saw someone built a solar generator using tool router at 12V and much more. This adjustable DC
box, but tool box doesn't look that great, right? So I output eliminates the need to use AC to DC power
kicked it up a notch with aluminum briefcase and it supply, which by the way will worsen the efficiency
looks much better. because the whole system convert DC to AC then to
DC again. It can also be used as bench power supply
The Listrik L585 has multiple outputs that can cover with constant voltage and constant current function,
nearly all consumer electronic devices. which is very useful for people like me who often
work with electronics.
The first one is AC output which is compatible to
almost 90% of mains devices under 300W, not all of

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 2

Step 1: The Materials and Tools

Main materials: * 12X M4 nuts

* 1X DJI Spark aluminum briefcase * 6X stainless steel brackets

* 60X 80*57*4.7mm prismatic lithium cells (you can * 1X 6A single pole toggle switch
substitute with more common 18650, but I found this
cell to have just the perfect form factor and * 1X 6A double pole toggle switch
dimension)
* 1X 15A single pole toggle switch
* 1X 300W 24V DC to AC inverter
* 4X 3mm stainless steel LED holder
* 1X DPH3205 programmable power supply
* 4X female XT60 connectors
* 2X 4 port USB buck converters
* 4X M3 20mm brass spacers
* 1X Cellmeter 8 battery checker
* 4X M3 30mm machine screws
* 1X 6S 15A BMS
* 2X M3 8mm machine screws
* 1X 6S balance connector
* 6X M3 nuts
* 12X M4 10mm bolts

* 1X 25A 3 pin terminal * Hobby knife

* 4X 4.5mm cable spades * Tweezer

* Custom cut 3mm instrument panel * Drill

Consumables:

* Heatshrinks

* Solder

* Flux

* 2.5mm solid copper wire

* Heavy duty double-sided tape (get the highest

quality one)

* Thin double-sided tape

* Kapton tape

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 3

* Epoxy

* Black paint

* 26 AWG wire for LED indicators

* 20 AWG silver stranded wire for low current wiring

* 16 AWG silver stranded wire for high current wiring

(lower AWG is preferred. Mine is rated at 17A
continuous chassis wiring, just barely enough)

Tools:

* Soldering iron

* Plier

* Screwdriver

* Scissors

Step 2: The Schematic

The schematic should be self-explanatory. Sorry for the poor drawing, but it should be more than enough.

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 4

Step 3: The Instrument Panel

I designed the instrument panel first. You can download the PDF file for free. The material can be wood, aluminum
sheet, acrylic or anything with similar property. I used acrylic in this "case". The thickness should be 3mm. You
can CNC cut it, or just print it on paper with 1:1 scale and cut it manually.

Download
http://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FPO/749W/JFUAH84G/FPO749WJFUAH84G.pdf
…

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 5

Step 4: The Case (Painting and Mounting Brackets)

For the case, I used an aluminum briefcase for DJI Spark, It has just the right dimension. It came with foam thingy
to hold the aircraft so I took it out and painted the inner part black. I drilled 6 4mm holes according to the hole
distance on my custom cut instrument panel and installed the brackets there. Then I glued M4 nuts on each
brackets so I can screw the bolts from the outside without holding the nuts.

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 6

Step 5: The Battery Pack Part 1 (Testing Cells and Making Groups)

For the battery pack, I used rejected LG prismatic balanced.

lithium cells I got for less than $1 each. The reason
why they're so cheap is just because they have blown I've seen a lot of people built their battery pack
fuse and tagged as faulty. I removed the fuses and without further testing on each cell, which I think is
they're good as new. It might be a bit unsafe but for mandatory if you're going to make a battery pack out
less than a buck each, I can't really complain. After of unknown cells.
all, I'll use a battery management system for the
protections. If you're going to use used or unknown Test showed that the average discharge capacity of
cells, I have a good Instructables on how to test and each cell is 2636mAh at 1.5A discharge current. On
sort used lithium cells here: (COMING SOON). lower current, the capacity is going to be higher due
to less power loss. I managed to get 2700mAh+ at
I've seen a lot of people using lead-acid battery for 0.8A discharge current. I'll get an extra 20% more
this kind of device. Sure they're easy to work with and capacity if I charge the cell to 4.35V/cell (the cell does
cheap but using lead-acid battery for portable allow 4.35V charge voltage) but the BMS doesn't
application is a big no-no for me. A lead-acid allow that. Also, charging the cell to 4.2V will prolong
equivalent will weighs about 15 kilograms! That's its life.
500% heavier than the battery pack I made (3
kilograms). Should I remind you that it'll be bigger in Back to the instruction. First, I joined 10 cells together
volume too? using thin double-sided tape. Then, I reinforced it
using kapton tape. Remember to be extra careful
I bought 100 of them and tested them one by one. I when dealing with lithium battery. These prismatic
have the spreadsheet of the test result. I filtered it, lithium cells have extremely close positive and
sorted it and end up with the best 60 cells. I divide negative part so it's easy to short one.
them equally by the capacity so each group will have
similar capacity. This way, the battery pack will be

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 7

Step 6: The Battery Pack Part 2 (Joining the Groups)

After I finished making the groups, the next step is to very nasty short circuit when you solder them
join them together. To join them together, I used thin together in series. The body of the prismatic cell is
double-sided tape and I reinforced it with kapton tape referenced to the cathode of the battery and vice
again. Very important, make sure the groups are versa for 18650 cells. Please keep this in mind.
isolated from each other! Otherwise, you'll get a

Step 7: The Battery Pack Part 3 (Soldering and Finishing)

This is the hardest and most dangerous part, because heat isn't good for any kind of battery,
soldering the cells together. You'll need a soldering especially for lithium battery.
iron that's at least 100W for easy soldering. Mine was
60W and it was a total PITA to solder. Don't forget the For finishing, I sticked the BMS with 3 layer of
flux, a hell ton of flux. It really helps. double-sided foam tapes and wire everything
according to the schematic. I soldered cable spades
** Be extremely careful at this step! High capacity on the battery's output and immediately installed
lithium battery isn't something you want to be those spades to the main power terminal to prevent
clumsy with. ** the spades from touching each other and causing a
short.
First, I cut my 2.5mm solid copper wire to the desired
length then peel off the insulation. Then, I soldered Remember to solder a wire from the negative side of
the copper wire to the cell's tab. Do this slow the balance connector and a wire from negative side
enough to let the solder flow, but fast enough to of the BMS. We need to break open this circuit to
prevent heat buildup. It really requires skill. I'd deactivate the Cellmeter 8 (battery indicator) so it
recommend to practice on something else before you won't turn on forever. The other end goes to one pole
try it with the real thing. Give the battery pack a break of a switch later.
after several minutes of soldering to cool down

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 8

Step 8: The Battery Pack Part 4 (Installation)

For the installation, I used double-sided tape. I hours, so slow that no heat is generated. Slow
recommend to use high quality, heavy duty double- charging is also good for any kind of battery. For
sided tape for this case because the battery is quite discharging, the maximum current I can draw from the
heavy. I used 3M VHB double-sided tape. So far, the battery pack is well below 1C discharge rate (26A) at
tape holds the battery pack very good. No problem only 15A continuous, 25A instantaneous. My battery
whatsoever. pack has around 33mOhm internal resistance.
Dissipated power equation is I^2*R. 15*15*0.033 =
The battery pack fits really nice there, one reason 7.4W of power lost as heat at 15A discharge current.
why I picked this prismatic lithium cell over cylindrical For something this big, that's not a big deal. Real
lithium cell. The airgap around the battery pack is world test shows that at high load, the temperature of
very important for heat dissipation. the battery pack rise to around 45-48 degree Celsius.
Not really a comfortable temperature for lithium
About heat dissipation, I'm not concerned too much battery, but still within the working temperature range
about it. For charging, I'll use my IMAX B6 Mini which (60º maximum)
can only deliver 60W. That's nothing compared to the
585Wh battery pack. Charging took more than 10

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 9

Step 9: The Inverter Part 1 (Disassembling and Heatsink Installation)

For the inverter, I removed it from the case so it'll fit One unusual thing is that the labeling clearly says
inside the aluminum briefcase and installed a pair of 500W while the silkscreen on the PCB says it's
heatsinks I got from a broken computer power supply. 300W. Also, this inverter has real reverse polarity
I also took the cooling fan, the AC socket and the protection unlike most inverters out there which use
switch for later use. dumb diode + fuse contraption for reverse polarity
protection. Nice, but not very useful in this case.
The inverter works down to 19V before the
undervoltage protection kick in. That's good enough.

Step 10: The Inverter (Installation and Mounting)

First, I extended the input power, LED indicators, the I found that the inverter has zero quiescent current
switch and the AC outlet's wire so they're long (<1mA) when connected to power source but
enough. Then, I installed the inverter in the case deactivated so I decided to connect the inverter's
using double-sided tape. I soldered cable spades on power wire directly without any switch. This way, I
the other end of the power input wires and connected don't need a bulky high current switch and less
those to the main terminal. I mounted the LED wasted power on the wire and switch.
indicators, fan and the AC outlet to the instrument
panel.

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 10

Step 11: The USB Module (Installation and Wiring)

First, I extended the LED indicators on both modules. Then, I stacked the modules with the M3 20mm brass
spacers. I soldered the power wires according to the schematic and put the whole assembly to the instrument
panel and tied it with zip ties. I soldered the 2 wires from the battery I mentioned earlier pack to the other pole of
the switch.

Step 12: The DPH3205 Module Part 1 (Installation and Input Wiring)

I drilled 2 3mm holes through the bottom plate diagonally and then I installed the DPH3205 module with 8mm M3
screws which go through those holes. I wired the input with thick 16 AWG wires. The negative goes straight to the
module. The positive goes to a switch first then to the module. I soldered cable spades on the other end which will
be connected to the main terminal.

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 11

Step 13: The DPH3205 Module Part 2 (Display Mounting and Output Wiring)

I mounted the display to the front panel and connected the wires. Then, I mounted the XT60 connectors to the
instrument panel using two part epoxy and wired those connectors in parallel. Then the wire goes to the module's
output.

Step 14: The Auxiliary I/O (Mounting and Wiring)

I mounted 2 XT60 connectors with 2 part epoxy and soldered the connectors in parallel with thick 16 AWG wires. I
soldered cable spades on the other end which go to the main terminal. The wire from the USB module also goes to
here.

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 12

Step 15: QC (Quick Inspection)

Make sure that there's nothing rattling inside. Unwanted conductive items can induce short circuit.

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 13

Step 16: Finishing and Testing

I closed the cover, screwed the bolts and done! I tested every functions and everything works as I hoped.
Definitely very useful for me. It cost me slightly over $150 (material only, not including failures), which is very
cheap for something like this. The assembling process took around 10 hours, but the planning and research took
around 3 months.

Even though I have done quite a lot of research before I build my power supply, my power supply still has many
flaws. I'm not really satisfied with the result. In the future, I will build the Listrik V2.0 with a lot of improvements. I
don't want to spoil the whole plan, but here's some of it:

1. Switch to high capacity 18650 cells

2. Slightly higher capacity
3. Much higher output power
4. Much better safety features
5. Internal MPPT charger
6. Better material selection
7. Arduino automation
8. Dedicated parameter indicator (battery capacity, power drawn, temperature and so on)
9. App controlled DC output and many other which I won't tell you for now ;-)

Step 17: Updates

Update #1: I added a manual override switch for the boast 7S8P config instead of 6S10P. A bit less
cooling fan so I can turn it on manually if I want to use capacity but better heat dissipation. Each group are
the power supply at full load so the parts inside will now spaced for better safety and cooling. 4.1V/cell
stay cool. charge voltage instead of 4.2V/cell for better
longevity.
Update #2: The BMS caught on fire, so I remake the
whole battery system with a better one. The new one

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 14

 Check this out! Was this guy you inspiration?
https://youtu.be/m04CXhoQ2jU
Sure! I watched a lot of his video, especially his videos about lithium battery. Maybe I should give a
credit to him..
haha yeah... maybe.. I watch his videos a lot, too. Keep up the awesome work! Excellent build!

The little grey programmable cc cv power supply ,CAUTION needs blocking diode on the 5 amp
version. If outputting to capacitive or battery load. Good news is it now has a big brother that can
sink 15 Amps. Great work a thing of beauty ! Also a very large AOE incendiary device, but you
seem to have it under control . Kudo's btw I think you'll love Arduino just got into them recently has
a little learning curve , but worth it. P.S. Just got two more of the 15 amp version love them dearly.
Manufacturer says it has anti-backflow protection so I don't need any diode. DPH3215 and
DPH3220 don't exist, only DPH3205 and DPH5005.
Oh sorry got mine from Drok might be subtle differences but yours looks same as my drok 15 amp
version. Any way love your project looking to see you more on this media . Wow 60 packs at 2
amps each
I got mine directly from the manufacturer (Ruideng). Drok is just a rebrand. Anything other than
DPH3205 and DPH5005 (both have 5A output) is just a buck module, meaning the output can only
be lower than the input. Not very suitable in this case.
LOL. I taught high school here in the U.S. Interesting that high school students in other parts of the
world have the same attitude.
I'm unsure what "attitude" you're referring to. Please let me know.

This is a great instructable. I do have a couple of concerns with it.

First is the gauge of wire for the amount of power is too small. You have a 500W inverter in there,
that alone has the potential to pull significant power even while working within it's specifications.
The other is that I didn't notice any spacing between individual cells, for their expansion and
contraction, which happens with all lithium cells, especially as they get warm.
Thank you. I've consider all of the important aspects, including wire gauge. For high current wiring,
I used 16 AWG silver stranded wire. 15A is the maximum current I can draw from the circuit
because 15A is the maximum current rating of the BMS. If the current went above 15A, the
overcurrent protection will trip. The inverter isn't really 500W anyway, only like 300W-400W before
the overload protection kick in.
-
I've done quite a lot of research about lithium battery and I didn't see any article about
compensating for cell expansion. I've seen other people stacking their flat lithum cell together just
fine, and even RC Li-Po manufacturers stack their cells together so tightly that I had difficulty to
take it apart. You could be right, but so far there's no problem with my battery pack.
Ok, so I know you've gone over that you Know the 16awg wire is large enough for 15A constant
throughput. I've done similar projects (see my toolbox power supply for example), and 16awg is
rated for 13A constant. Also, that inverter, at 500 (peak probably, won't hold that for long), on a
22.2v system is pulling 22.5A. For 300w constant supply it's fine, but MAKE SURE anyone using it
knows that's the limit.

And on another note, while I agree with your use of lithium for the weight, lithium batteries even
with cooling don't do well in high temperature environments, and I'll sacrifice weight savings for
heat resistance and durability any day.

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 15

 You should know that current rating on a wire depends on the quality of the wire. This is the
datasheet of the exact same wire I used:
http://www.reihsing.com/rh14/old/UploadFiles/20123...
First, their 16 AWG wire is rated at 17A, just slightly above 15A. Second, 16 AWG was the biggest
available wire size I could buy on the hardware store so I was left with no choice. If I had the
choice, I'd definitely choose larger wire to be on the safe side and minimize power loss.
-
Temperature isn't really a problem. I tested it myself. Everything is still within the limit.
I would still recommend ordering at least 14awg from the nearest place that offers it.
My own project using 10awg for a 450w inverter.

I noticed that a few other people asked about the charging, and you mentioned a 10 hour charge
time, is there a reason you chose a 60w charger instead of one with a higher capacity? (Or does
that have to do with the same hardware store availability as the wire?)
Thank you for the input. I updated my part list with your recommendation (larger wire) but so far,
my power supply is doing great, even at full load.
-
There's no particular reason. I bought the IMAX B6 Mini quite a long time ago, and that's my only
charger that is capable to charge 6S battery with balance function. The maximum power it can
deliver is only 60W. I'm not bothered too much about 10 hours charge time. I like slow charging, it's
good for my batteries.
Makes sense. I have a 12v balance charger for my SLA batteries, and it does a speed charge and
then a float. It charges up the 40Ah array in 5 hours.
I'm curious what the charge rate is and how hot the cells get while charging. I assume it's open
while charging? If not some cooling fans might be in order. 15A BMS gives 15A charge
rate/discharge rate?
Temperature while charging isn't an issue at all. My IMAX B6 mini can only do 60W, that's nothing
compared to the 585Wh capacity. The charging time is more than 10 hours, so slow that almost no
heat is generated while charging. Temperature while discharging isn't a big issue either. The
maximum discharge current is well below 1C (1C = 26A) so not much heat is generated. My
battery pack has about 33mOhm internal resistance (tested). Dissipated power is I^2*R.
15*15*0.033 = 7.4W of heat being generated at maximum load. For something that has mass of 3
kilograms, that's negligible. The instrument panel has 3 big circulation holes on the back (hard to
see) so I think the cooling is more than enough. Also, I tested my battery pack at high load and the
temperature rose to about 45º celsius. Well below 60º maximum working temperature.
Nice project, very similar to the one I built last year (1,2kW LifePo). I would change the IMAX
charger with a Li-ion 2A charger and change the BMS for a BMS with cell ballance for commodity
(manually balance-top voltages prior to build and you wouldn't have problems), and more details,
but in most cases it depends on tastes. It was a closed project for a Company so I can't share
more details.
My concern is, did you get very similar cell capacities? If not, you can get erronous value in
remaining capacity (usually the problem with cells of different internal resistances). But the IMAX
rebalance them in each charge.
Anyway, it is a well thinked project and very cheap, I congratulate you for the result.
I was unable to find any 6S BMS with balance function locally. I don't have credit card, so I can't
buy things from Aliexpress or Banggood. I'm just a poor student, so I have to think hard to keep the
cost low.

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 16

 -
I tested my cells individually on both capacity and internal resistance. Because they're rejected
cells, they haven't used yet and have similar capacity and internal resistance. Of course some cells
are defective, or just didn't pass the test. I reject all of those cells. I filtered it, sorted it and so on
until I end up with 6 groups that have very similar capacity. It was quite a long process, like 2
months but it worth the effort. My battery pack is balanced. I haven't fully discharge my battery
pack so I can't tell you the end voltage of each cell, but it look promising.
Great idea for a portable power source. I would feel much better seeing at least a fusible link
somewhere off the positive leads near the battery. Should the inverter or BMS board short
internally, what would burn up first?
The BMS will automatically cut-off the output if there's any short circuit or overcurrent condition.
I've never seen a BMS short itself in my entire life so I don't think I need any fuse there.
The fuse between cells is very important. Imagine a heavy shock in which the cells are short
circuited. You get a big boom in a matter of minutes (with high temperatures).
I never thought about that but I think yes, fuses between cells is can be very important. I forgot that
but the thing is, from hundreds of videos and instructions about building battery pack I've seen, I
don't see anyone use fuses in every series connection, let alone use a fuse when you already have
BMS. If I know about it, I'll definitely use it but it's too late. Well, at least I have insulate my groups
with multiple layer of thick kapton tape. I think that should be enough.
Certainly a BMS never will hold a short circuit long enough with high currents, in such a case it
would last microseconds with high currents before it is volatilized (the IC or MOS cause of the
short).
While you have done a good job illustrating your project when writing a scholarly article you should
stick to industry standards not consumer made up flash. Also 585Wh/22.2 volts is 26.364 amps,
mAh. Perhaps you meant to use a comma instead of a period. I know some countries use a period
to mark the thousands, but you used commas elsewhere.
Converting the capacity to 3.7V mAh equivalent is not industry standard, just a way to hype
capacity. It's a 585 Wh battery and will provide different amounts of current for different voltages.
But the same amount of power. While you are just copying the conversion it was conceived as a
method to inflate and hide the true capacity of lithium batteries. Only used to hide the true capacity.
Thank you for your input. I'd prefer Wh as my unit of choice because it's universal and comparable.
585Wh is pretty clear. If I have to tell someone the battery capacity, I'll either say 585Wh or 22.2V
26,364mAh. The 158,000mAh I wrote there is the equivalent number just in case someone want to
compare it with other customer power bank. Of course the battery pack I made is not 3.7V
158,000mAh, but the word equivalent exist for a reason.
-
About period and comma, I don't really know the standard. I usually use period in numbers like
3.14 (pi), 3.3V, 3.7V, 4.2V and so on and comma in numbers like $1,000 , 1,250,000 RPM and so
on. If you know the right way to use it, tell me. I'd like to know.
I know the right way to use periods and commas. And I don't confuse them, using one when I
should have been using another. "... the word equivalent exist(s) for a reason...", but the problem is
you just made up a reason. Means nothing to anyone but you. Like I said and many others have
also said, use standard terms, don't make stuff up, be consistent and use ISO standards. You keep
using junk you'll continue to get criticism and obviously you don't much like that. Technical articles
are not prose, correctness is absolutely critical.
By the way your construction techniques and expertise are really very good. Better than 99 out of a
100 hobbyist.

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 17

 I'm open to all critics, as long as you're nice enough. Your input is very important for me. I removed
my subjective claim as you wish. I was wrong, yes. I admit it. I fixed it. It should be less confusing
now. Once again, thank you for your input. If you have anything to tell me, tell me. I'm just a
student, not really an expert. I'll appreciate any input that will improve myself.
I'd recommend using larger wire on those XT60 outlets. I think the 'large' 16 AWG wire used might
just have thick insulation (such as MTW, which is very pliable, but not oil and gas resistant like
THHN).
The 2.5mm wire used for jumpering the cells together is good for at least 30 amps, but 16 gauge is
rated for only ~13 amps.
Hope that helps.
It's enough, especially for very short chassis wiring. My biggest concern isn't on the wiring though..

That was my point too. He uses the comma in one place and a period in an other place, really
confusing?
Jump on to the ISO standards, (them only things still relaying on IMPERIAL measurements are
them IC's), and they are allso changhing ower to METRIC
NONE of Your cables or connectors could hande 158,0000mAh.!! That is 158,000mAh = 158Ah.
Will Your connections/cables withstand 158Amps?
Then You say ”The Listrick L585 has built-in 585Wh (26,364mAh 22.2V, tested) lithium battery”
There’s a huge difference in 26,364mAh 22.2V, and 158Ah. (mA is a thousand of a Amp).
A kind of a 150Ah battery is usually used in heavy duty mashcinery like trucks, ships..etc.
Gee….. P=U*I, ( Power equals to Volt multiplied with Current). Howe hard can that be to
understand?
Fair enough, put that equation to Your solution …. And what comes out?
Let me explain it, one by one.
-
"NONE of Your cables or connectors could hande 158,0000mAh.!!"
Of course. Cables and connectors aren't power source like battery. Why would you assume that?
-
"Will Your connections/cables withstand 158Amps?"
No. But before you ask that, in which part I claimed that 158A will be flowing through the circuit?
And where did you get the number 158A? did you just convert my given equivalent capacity to
current? what's the relevance?
-
"There’s a huge difference in 26,364mAh 22.2V, and 158Ah."
You forgot the 3.7V there on the 158Ah claim. Let's calculate and see how huge the difference is.
Watt-hour = nominal voltage multiplied by capacity (current-hour)
22.2V * 26.364Ah = 585Wh
3.7V * 158Ah = 584.6Wh
Oh look, 0.4Wh difference! Thats's a huge difference isn't it?
-
"A kind of a 150Ah battery is usually used in heavy duty mashcinery like trucks, ships..etc."
No, not really. You were comparing 150Ah at 3.7V to 150Ah at 12V, 24V, 48V and so on. Not
really comparable. Not even close.

Listrik L585 585Wh AC DC Portable Power Supply: Page 18

Here in the USA we follow the National Electric Code (aka NFPA 70), which says you need 14
AWG (or larger) for 15 amp circuits. :)
This is the datasheet of the wire I used:
http://www.reihsing.com/rh14/old/UploadFiles/20123...
As you can see, I picked the biggest size available (16A AWG) and it's rated at 17A. Just slightly
above 15A. I should give more room just to be on the safe side but it was the biggest size available
so I was left with no choice.
The maximum circuit current I can draw from this thing is 15A @ 22.2V nominal voltage, limited by
the maximum current the battery management system can handle. 16AWG is definitely more than
enough and please, don't confuse capacity (Ampere-hours) with current (Ampere).
Let's take a quick look again.
P=U*I
My battery pack: 22.2V 26,364mAh = 585Wh
The equivalent number I claimed: 3.7V 158,000mAh = 584,6Wh
Please pay close attention to the word "equivalent" I put there.
The reason why I use "3.7V 158,000mAh equivalent" is just to compare it to typical consumer
power bank, because their capacity are usually rated at 3.7V nominal voltage, not 22.2V nominal
voltage like my battery pack so it will be unfair if I directly use 26,364mAh rating to compare it with
other consumer power banks. I have to convert it to Wh first, then to mAh in the desired nominal
voltage.
Don't believe me? I use 6 batteries in series, that means 3.7V * 6 = 22.2V. 26,364mAh * 6 =
158,184mAh. Coincidence? I think not.
Yup, KISELIN is confused between battery capacity and peak current available.
For example, my diesel VW Golf has a battery that's IIRC 72Ah (at 12V); but it can supply around
300 CCA (cold cranking amps) to spin the starter and engine.
A battery's capacity and peak current are only related by the battery's internal resistance [and
ability to tolerate I^2R heating], and the internal resistance is almost never stated on listings like
Ebay or AliExpress (although the 30A rating of some vape 18650s at least indicates a low internal
resistance).
While I'm here: if all y'all could please use Ah rather than thousands of milliampere hours, that'd be
awful nice. For the same reason that, if you visit your local grocery for sugar, you ask for a kilo
rather than a billion micrograms (which would be stupid, right?).
Anyway, nice project; I'm impressed that you're an ampere-hour maniac :-)
A little advice: Always wire for overkill ( use biggest wire you can fit ) , the inverter with small heat
sinks needs a fan and air flow ( think why its done in the pc supply, small heat sinks with fan to
save them cost and size). the inverter used the whole casing. Never assume the BMS will save
you, add fuses and be safe. The BMS stops current with the pass mosfet and if it shorts with
another fault, you have a big flame ball. Nice work, but really consider safety and worst possible
failures.
Thanks for the input. The wire's gauge is more than enough. 16 AWG silver stranded wire can
easily handle 15A, no problem.
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If you pay close enough attention, you can see that I installed a cooling fan right above the inverter.
-
About fuse, I did consider adding one. In fact, I already bought 20A automotive fuses of but from
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 hundred of videos and instructions on showing how to build battery pack, almost no one is using
fuse if they already have BMS so I ditched the idea but you could be right. I'll update my
Instructable with your suggestion. Again, thank you for your suggestion. Have a nice day.
Nice work! I hope you continue to build and share....
Thanks. Maybe not anytime soon because I'm broke haha.

How can you get the battery in Indonesia? Klo bisa bisikin harganya juga, gan. Hehehe..
You invited criticism when you used that garbage about the "consumer standard of rating batteries
at 3.7 volts equivalent. No amount of "explanation" from you is going to help when a premise is
flawed. This statement is wrong because you multiplied by 6 twice. You multiplied the number of
cells by 6 and then the capacity by 6. That's what you call consumer standard and it's pure
garbage, and the way it's done online to inflate and state untruly the capacity of the battery. It's a
585 wH battery not 6x585 wH battery.
If you don't want criticism use industry standards, not made up bogus inflated made to confuse
"consumer standards"
On one hand you defend the 158,184 capacity and then on the other hand you say it's not really
that much and your wiring is rugged enough. On one hand you try to justify your figures with
correct terms and math and then on the other you use "consumer standard garbage" If it's really
158 amps at 3.7 volt you will need some BIG wire.
Let me explain it a little bit here
-
"This statement is wrong because you multiplied by 6 twice. You multiplied the number of cells by
6 and then the capacity by 6."
No I didn't. What I did is divide the nominal voltage by 6 and multiply the capacity by 6.
22.2V / 6 = 3.7V
26,364mAh * 6 = 158,184,mAh
If I convert that into Wh (the universal capacity unit), then it'll be:
3.7V * 158.184Ah = 585Wh
Look, 585Wh. The exact same number as I claimed. Easy.
Dude, equivalent. Do you know what equivalent means?
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"If it's really 158 amps at 3.7 volt you will need some BIG wire."
Excuse me, in which part I specified that there will be 158A flowing through my circuit. I never say
that. Never.
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You don't like my claim? That's okay. To be fair, I already stated the capacity clearly. 22.2V
26,364mAh or 585Wh. There. It's proven. It's straightfoward.
I think it would be better to use 18650 cells as they are much safer and more forgiving
mechanically and electrically. With those soft shell lithium batteries this is more of a bomb. But
otherwise this is a great project
Hmmm...every tablet, smartphone, hobby electric drones use soft shell lithium batteries. They
seem pretty reliable to me.
Sure. My calculation shows that a 18650 cell with similar capacity has better gravimetric energy
density compared to this prismatic lithium cell. I prefer it because its form-factor. Also, those cells
already have tabs pre-welded there so it's easy to solder them.
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These prismatic lithium-ion cells have hard shell, not as hard as cylindrical 18650 cell but still not
as soft as typical lithium polymer cells. Any kind of lithium battery has the risk to explode, what's
matter is how you handle them.
where did you get the battery cells from I'd love to get my hand on a lot of does also. I love using
them for projects but are very expensive
do you think its possible I could be able to get some of them from there or maybe you get them and
I buy them from you.

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