Maruti Suzuki India Limited, formerly known as Maruti Udyog Limited, is an automobile

manufacturer in india. It is a subsidiary of Japanese automobile and motorcycle

manufacturer Suzuki Motor Corporation As of January 2016, it had a market share of

47% of the Indian passenger car market. Maruti Suzuki manufactures and sells popular

cars such as the Ertiga, Alto, Swift, Zen, Celerio, Swift DZire, SX4 and Omni. The

company is headquartered at New Delhi. In February 2012, the company sold its ten
millionth vehicle in India.
 MARUTI SUZUKI WORKSHOP

Competent Automobiles Company Limited, Ghazipur,

New Delhi, Delhi

Products and services
Current models[edit]
maruti8001983

Model Launched Category

Omni 1984 Minivan

Gypsy 1985 SUV

WagonR 1999 Hatchback

Swift 2005 Hatchback

Grand Vitara 2007 Mini SUV

DZire 2008 Sedan

Eeco 2009 Minivan

 K10 2010 Hatchback

Ertiga 2012 Mini MPV

Alto 800 2012 Hatchback

Celerio 2014 Hatchback

Ciaz 2014 Sedan

Baleno 2015 Hatchback

S-Cross 2015 Mini SUV

Vitara Brezza 2016 Mini SUV

Discontinued models[edit]
Model Launched Discontinued Category Image

Gypsy E 1985 2000 SUV

1000 1990 2000 Sedan

Zen 1993 2006 Hatchback

Esteem 1994 2008 Sedan

Baleno 1999 2007 Sedan

Versa 2001 2010 Minivan

Grand Vitara XL7 2003 2007 Mini SUV

800 1983 2012 Hatchback

Alto 2000 2012 Hatchback

Zen Estilo August 2007 2013 Hatchback

A-star 2008 2014 Hatchback

Maruti Suzuki SX4 2008 2014 Sedan

Ritz 2009 2016 Hatchback

SERVICES

A motor vehicle service is a series of maintenance procedures carried out at a set time interval

or after the vehicle has travelled a certain distance. The service intervals are specified by the
vehicle manufacturer in a service schedule and some modern cars display the due date for the
next service electronically on the instrument panel.

The completed services are usually recorded in a service book which is rubber stamped by the

service centre upon completion of each service. A complete service history usually adds to the
resale value of a vehicle.

Maintenance tasks commonly carried out during a motor vehicle service include:

Change the engine oil

Replace the oil filter

Replace the air filter

Replace the fuel filter

Replace the cabin filter

Replace the spark plugs

Tune the engine

Check level and refill brake fluid/clutch fluid

Check Brake Pads/Liners, Brake Discs/Drums, and replace if worn out.

Check level and refill power steering fluid

Check level and refill Automatic/Manual Transmission Fluid

Grease and lubricate components

Inspect and replace the timing belt or timing chain if needed

Check condition of the tires

 Check for proper operation of all lights, wipers etc.

Check for any Error codes in the ECU and take corrective action.

Wash the vehicle and clean the interiors.

1) First free service : 1000 km or one month from the date of sale whichever

occurs is earlier.

First service: New cars

First Service is performed within 1 month or 1000 Kms - common with most of
the manufacturers, except couple of few

Generally, its the cleaning and vehicle inspection with screws tightened up
during first Service. There are no Labor costs and no Parts cost - unless you
tend to replace something.
The first service for a brand new car typically comprises an oil and oil
filter change, possibly an air filter change too. As the car is relatively new,
it is usually quite a basic procedure and shouldn't break the bank.

2) 2. Second free service : 5000 km or 6 months from the date of sale whichever

occurs is earlier.

Second Service

Like the first, the second service is generally due when 12 months have
passed or a stipulated mileage has been reached. Keeping track of when a
service is due shouldn't be difficult; in more modern cars an alert might flash
up on the LCD screen or it could coincide with your MOT.

The same service options will usually be offered: minor (interim) and full. The
checks carried out depend on the option and garage you've chosen, but a
standard minor service should include an oil and filter change, plus a visual
inspection of the:

Tyres

Brakes

Lights

Levels of coolant, windscreen wash, brake fluid and power steering fluid

Bulbs

Wipers

How to check engine oil

Check engine oil regularly, especially if you notice that the oil level drops between the oil changes. Engine
oil cools down and lubricates the engine. Driving with very low oil level can cause engine problems.

Park your vehicle on a level ground. Set the parking brake. Make sure the transmission is in "Park." Stop
the engine. Wait for a minute or two to let engine oil drain into the oil pan. Pull the engine oil dipstick. If you
don't know where is it located, check your owner's manual, usually it has a bright handle saying "Engine
Oil".

Wipe the dipstick off. Insert it back fully. Pull it out again and check the oil level.
 The oil level should be between the "Low" and "Full" marks. In this photo the level is OK and oil looks
clean.

Check the oil condition: If it's way too black, as in the left photo, it's definitely time to change it. If it's brown,
but still clean and transparent, as in the right photo, it's OK. If oil looks clean, but the level is low, you can
just top it up.

In this car, the oil level is below the "Low" mark. Driving with low oil level like this can damage your engine.
 To top up engine oil use a recommended type of oil; for example, if your owner's manual or the oil filler
cap indicates SAE 5W-20, use SAE 5W-20 oil. If your engine needs synthetic oil, use only synthetic oil.
You can find the recommended oil type for your car in your owner's manual.

How to top up engine oil:

Add a small amount of oil into the oil filler neck. Wait for a couple of minutes to let oil to flow into the oil pan.
Check the oil level again with the dipstick. If it's still low, add some more. But don't overfill it. Don't forget to
install the dipstick back and close the oil filler cap when you are done.

Engine coolant (antifreeze)

Visually check the engine coolant level in the overflow tank. Your owner's manual has the directions. The
level should be between "Low" and "Full" marks. (Don't open the radiator cap or the pressurized overflow
tank cap when the engine is hot! The cooling system is under pressure when hot!) If the coolant level is
low, you can top it up using recommended type of coolant mixed with water. Again, your owner's manual
has the proper way to do it.
 Add coolant only when the engine is cool. Use only recommended engine coolant. Sometimes engine
coolant is sold already premixed with water and sometimes you will have to mix it. Check you owner's
manual or read the directions on the coolant bottle. Carefully add the coolant into the overflow tank to
make it between "LOW" and "FULL" marks.

If the coolant level drops within a short time after topping up, there may be a leak. Have the coolant
system checked - lack of coolant may cause the engine to overheat which may result in serious damage.

Engine air filter

The engine air filter keeps the air entering the engine clean, but over time the filter gets dirty and
restricts the air flow. The engine air filter is usually recommended to be replaced every 12,000-15,000
miles or 20,000-24,000 km. Typically the air filter gets checked when you bring your car for an oil change.
If you want to check it or replaced yourself, on most cars and trucks it's a fairly easy task. Your owner's
manual has the directions. If you find that the air filter is dirty, replaced it; it's not a very expensive part. It's
best to use an original air filter that you can buy at your local dealership parts department; usually it costs
around $20. When you are installing the air filter, make sure it's installed correctly; again, check your
 owner's manual. If the filter is not installed properly, unfiltered air entering the engine could damage the
airflow sensor and increase engine wear.

Battery
Check the battery condition visually. If you see any leaks, cracks or other damage, the battery needs to be
replaced. Make sure the battery terminals are tight and not corroded. Corrosion at the battery terminals will
cause poor connection, which can result in all kinds of problems, including a no-start.
You may find the tips how to clean the battery terminals in your vehicle's owner's manual or online. Just search
the internet for How to clean car battery terminals, there are some video instructions available. Be careful, that
white flaky corrosion stuff is very acidic.

Windshield wipers
Replace the wipers at least once a year or earlier if they don't clean the windshield properly. If you still have the
original wipers installed, you can just replace the rubber refills; they cost just a few bucks and can be
purchased from your local dealership's parts department. Check if the windshield washer jets are working
properly.
Be advised that should any of these items need to be replaced, it's likely to be
at an additional cost.

3) 3. Third Free service : 10000 km or one year from the date of sale whichever

occurs is earlier.

Mobil 1 Change engine oil & oil filter.

Check and top-up all fluids (coolant, power steering, brake, transmission etc.).
Clean K&N air filter (best done at 7,500 km mark).
Wheel rotation, balancing & alignment. Check condition (include spare wheel).
Check and adjust all belts. Replace if any are cracked / worn out.
Check all hose pipes. Replace if any are cracked / worn out.
Check wiper blades & adjust washer nozzles.
Check all lights.
Check / service battery.
Complete cleaning and waxing of the car.
Apply paint to the small nicks & dents. Get body work done where necessary. Get rid of any rust spots
while they're still small.

4) REPAIR & MAINTENANCE

CLUTCH OVEROLING

1
When a disc from a clutch wears thin we will notice scratching when selecting a gear. If this
happens it means that the disc failed to properly fulfil its function of transmitting the power
from the engine to the gearbox and terrain.

2
A clear sign that the clutch has to be changed is when we find that, when trying to overtake
or when going up hill, we accelerate and the motor increases revolutions but speed doesn't
go up.

3
We must also think about replacing the clutch when, changing from one gear to another, we
notice a lack of smoothness, a certain scratching and difficulty in selecting gears even when
we have the correct speed.
 4
From the physical point of view, the unusually short route of the the clutch pedal is signalling
that the disc is starting to wear out.

5
We can do a test to check the degree of clutch wear; this should not be done frequently as
the check itself contributes to shortening the life of the component. We must have the motor
of the car switched on and the hand brake up.

Then, as we accelerate we lift our foot from the clutch whilst staying in 3rd gear. The longer it
takes the car to stall the more worn out the clutch is.

6
As mentioned, there is no established mileage or time frame in which to change the clutch as
it all depends on how the vehicle is used and the quality of materials. However, an
approximate indication of when a clutch may need replacing is at around 150,000 kilometres.

PROCEDURE

Remove clutch cable linkage to clutch and loose mounting and take the clutch out from
engine.

loosen the pressure plate mounting Bolt and remove it.

Loosen the flywheel mounting Bolt and remove it with flywheel drag.
 Check Oil seal of engine and gearbox as well for no further problem. if need replace it.

Dismantle clutch assembly from enterior of clutch cover and housing and clean with

kerosene.

Check the condition of pressure its thickness and tension of spring. Replace crack spring.

Replace spring if they are beyond specified limit.

Check the release levers and lever plate cracks.

Check the facing of pressure plate for glaring.

Check clutch cover for damage and hub seeked spring for length and damage.

Hold the pressure plate perfectly in clutch fixing to avoid and damage on accident.

Place the flywheel bearing in flywheel center. Refit the flywheel on the mounted initial
position on together the bolts at specified layers.

Place the clutch plate and cover by the front of the flywheel and with the help of alinging
centre tool align then with flywheel bearing.

Connect all connection i.e., speedometer drive stainer, reverse switch and clutch case.

Adjust the clutch pedal free play which is mostly and check the frictioning of clutch for

satisfaction.

Check the free movement of clutch pedal or engaging and disengaging of gears smoother.

WHEEL BALANCING

Put safety first. Before you can begin to do anything, make sure you are protected by wearing
some safety equipment. Make sure you are wearing steel toes boots, long pants, safety
glasses or goggles, and gloves.
 Ensure you have proper tires. Make sure the tires that you have on the rims are good for the
road. No cracks on the sidewall, and to have at least 4/32nd (50%) of tread depth.

Make sure you have no center caps and wheel weights. Before mounting the wheel onto the
machine, make sure you have your center caps off (if you have them), and the old wheel
weights from the previous balancing off. This is to ensure that you get the most accurate
results from the machine.

Mount the wheel. After you have done all the previous steps, you can now safely mount your
wheel onto the machine. Once it is on, double check to make sure that the wheel is snug tight.

Measure the wheel. Once the wheel is on, the machine will want to know the size of the rim.
You will have to measure the height of the rim, as well as the width
 Select your vehicle. Depending on the machine you're using, it may have a feature which
allows you to choose what type of vehicle this wheel will be going on so it can put the proper
amount of road force when its being tested.

Enter proper tire pressure accordingly to your vehicle specifications. If you dont do this
before closing down the hood, it will ask you if you have done it or not to be a reminder.

Start. Once you have measure your rims and have chosen the proper type of vehicle, you can
simply

Install wheel weights. Once the machine has finished testing the road force and balance the
wheel, it will tell you how much weight it wants and what side of the wheel. presses start or
close the hood.

Rebalance. Once you have install the wheel weights, you want to rebalance the wheel to
make sure you added the proper amount of the wheel weights, and at the proper spot of the
rim it has aske

Finish up. After rebalancing your wheel and it says ok, you are now done and can take the
wheel off the machine. The wheel is now ready to be install on the vehicle.
Changing the filter on a fuel-injected vehicle can be tricky. On fuel-injected
vehicles, you need to disable the fuel pump to relieve the pressure on the fuel
lines, which may be secured to the filter with clamps, threaded fittings, or
special quick-connect fittings. Lines with threaded fittings require a special
flare-nut line wrench. Lines with special quick-connect fittings may require
special tools to disconnect them. Ask the clerk at an auto parts store or the
service department at your dealership which type of filter your vehicle has.

If doing this infrequent job requires purchasing special tools, its probably
cheaper to have it done by a technician. If not, the first thing you need to do is
find the filter. Your owners manual should show you where your fuel filter is
and whether theres more than one on your vehicle. If it doesnt, ask
someone in the service department at your dealership or consult a service
manual for your vehicles make, model, and year. (Although its a good idea
to own one, you can usually find these manuals at your local library.)

If your engine has fuel-injection, your fuel filter is located somewhere in the
high-pressure fuel line, either under the vehicle near the fuel tank as shown
here:
A fuel filter located under the vehicle near the fuel tank.

Or under the hood in the fuel line near the engine, as shown here:

A fuel filter in the fuel line under the hood.

Some vehicles also have a fuel filter in the fuel pump as well as a filter screen
inside the fuel tank. If they get blocked up, only a professional should deal
with them.

Here are step-by-step instructions for changing a fuel filter. Before you get
started, read them carefully and make sure that you want to do this job
yourself.

Relieve the pressure in the fuel line before disconnecting it. To do so, you
have to disable the electric fuel pump before you start the engine.
To disable the fuel pump, do the following:
With the engine off, remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse box. (Your
owners manual should show you where it is.)
Make sure that the parking brake is on and that the vehicle is in Park or
Neutral, and then start the engine. It wont run very long after you start it up,
but the pressure in the fuel lines will be reduced.
Turn off the engine. With the fuel pump disabled, youre ready to disconnect
the fuel lines from the filter.
Look at the old filter and the new one before disconnecting anything.
You should see an arrow stamped on both filters that shows in which
direction the fuel flows through it. If the new one doesnt have an arrow on it,
look to see in what direction the old filter is installed so that you can tell which
end of the new filter goes where.
Remove whatever is holding the old filter in place and remove it.
Put the new filter on in the same position as the old filter.
Replace whatever holds the filter in place, and make sure its secure.
Replace the fuse for the fuel pump in the fuse box.
Make sure that the parking brake is on and that the vehicle is in Park or
Neutral, and then start the engine and check for leaks around the filter.
REPLACE MENT OF TIMEING BELT
 Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking brake. Allow the engine to cool down before
attempting the timing belt replacement.

Open the hood and remove the battery negative cable.

If applicable drain the cooling system. Remove all necessary components to gain access to the timing belt
cover.

Loosen the timing belt cover bolts and remove the timing belt cover

Make sure that all timing marks are properly align, then loosen the timing belt tensioner and remove the
timing belt. Remove and replace the water pump if applicable.

Note: Do not allow either the camshaft or crankshaft to move while the belt is off. For an interference
engine, the pistons could hit the valves.

Check the condition of the timing belt tensioner bearings. Replace them if they are loose or noisy.

Check the camshaft and crankshaft seals. Replace them if they are leaking.

While keeping the timing marks aligned, install the new timing belt and release the tensioner. Ensure the
belt sits properly on the teeth of the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets.

Note: Do not force the timing belt over the sprockets nor bend or twist it. Make sure the belt tensioner is
fully loosened.

Rotate the crankshaft pulley by hand at least two complete revolutions clockwise until it returns to the
timing mark. This will help seat the new belt into place on the sprockets. And for interference engine, this
will verify if there is any hard resistance that may indicate pistons and valves coming into contact.

Verify the timing marks positions on the camshaft, crankshaft, and accessory sprockets are correct.

Put a new gasket on the timing belt cover and reinstall it.

Tighten the timing cover bolts to proper torque specifications.

Reinstall all of the accessory assemblies that were removed earlier.

Reconnect the battery negative cable. Fill the engine with coolant if applicable.

Start the engine and listen carefully. There should be no unusual noise heard while the engine is running.

SPARK PLUG
 Locate the spark plugs in your car (refer to owners manual). When you open the hood or
bonnet of your car, you should see a bundle of 4-8 wires leading to different points on the
engine compartment. The spark plugs are located at the engine end of these wires, under the
plug covers that attach them

a) On a 4-cylinder engine, spark plugs will be located on the top or side of the engine in a row.

b) On an inline 6-cylinder, they are located on the top or side of the engine head. On V6 and
c) V8-cylinder engines, plugs should be separated evenly on each side of the engine.
d) Some cars have engine covers you'll have to remove to see the spark plug wires, tracing them
back to find the plugs themselves. You should always check your owner's manual and look up
where your spark plugs are, how many you have, the correct "gap" and the size socket
needed to remove them. You should also number the corresponding leads to the cylinder so
as not to confuse which lead goes where when replacing with new plugs. At this point, it is
good practice to inspect the leads for any damage or cracks as replacement leads may also
be required.
Let the engine cool before removing your spark plugs. If you've been running the car for a
while, the plugs and the entire engine and exhaust system manifold can get extremely hot.
Only remove them when the engine is cool enough to touch. In the mean time, assemble your
tools while you wait for your engine to cool. To change your spark plugs, you'll need:

a) A ratchet socket drive wrench

b) An extension bar
c) Spark plug socket, usually included in most ratchet socket sets
d) A spark gap gauge or feeler gauge, available at any auto parts store

Remove the first spark plug. Pull the wire plug from the engine by gripping it as closely to the
bottom as possible and working it gently and carefully off to reveal the spark plug. Don't yank
on the wire to pull out of the plug, or you've got a bigger job on your hands and a ruined spark
 plug lead . Fit your socket wrench with the extension bar and use the ratchet to remove the
spark plug from its housing slowly and with caution.

a) When checking to see if the plugs need replacing, simply remove one spark plug and check
the gap. If contacts are burnt out, refit the plug and lead to the correct torque setting then go to
the auto parts store and get new plugs before removing any more. You will need to remove
the plugs one at a time, keeping track of the order. Spark plugs fire in a specific order, and
crossing a wire to the wrong plug will make the engine run rough or not at all and can cause
damage to your engine.
b) Remember: If you take out more than one spark plug at a time, keep track of your leads and
the corresponding plugs by marking them with small pieces of masking tape. Label each wire
numerically, then give the corresponding plug the same number.

Measure the gap of the spark plug. This number should be a specific measurement anywhere
between .028-.060 inch, with a bit of wiggle room depending on your particular set of plugs
and your car. These days, most plugs come preset according to the model number of the plug
and their application, but it is wise to double check. Refer to your owner's manual to find out
the optimum distance for your spark plug gap and use a gap checker or feeler gauge to check
the distance.

a) If the distance of the spark plug gap is higher than it should be, but the plug is still of a
relatively high quality and is an adjustable-gap plug, you can either try to change the gap by
gently tapping the plug on a wooden surface with the gauge in between the plug gap until the
desired measure is set at the correct measurement, or you can simply buy new plugs. It's
usually recommended that you replace the plugs after every 20,000 Km or 12,000 miles or as
indicated in your vehicle owners manual. Spark plugs are not overly expensive, and it's a
good idea to replace them at regular intervals for trouble free motoring and a proper spark.
b) If you're going to start changing your own plugs, invest in proper tools and equipment, such as
a fine gap checker. It's basically a metal ring you can use to see if the electrodes are close
enough to fire properly. Feeler gauges are even more precise and give a wider range of
applications. The same goes for parts: aways buy quality and or genuine parts, it is worth a
few dollars more for peace of mind and reliability.
Check the existing plugs for wear. It is normal for the spark plug to appear somewhat dirty
even if the plug is working properly, but you will need to change your spark plugs if you see
any white, limey build up around the electrodes of the plugs, or if you see any evidence of
burning or parts of the electrode missing. Heavy, sooty build-up also suggests that you need
to change your plugs.

a) If the plugs are bent, black, or broken, you may have a mechanical problem with your engine
and should consult a qualified mechanic or your local car dealer repair shop without undue
delay.
Installing New Plugs
 Get the correct replacement plugs.You can either consult your owner's manual or the booklet
at the auto parts store that corresponds to your particular make and model and year of
manufacture. There are literally hundreds of different combinations of spark plugs and
measurements, ranging in price from less than two dollars to 15 dollars, made of platinum,
yttrium and iridium, etc. Plugs made of precious metals (such as iridium and platinum) are
typically more expensive than lesser metals (like copper) and the coatings resist wear much
better. If you are unsure, talk to your auto parts dealer for advice or refer to you local car
dealer's spare parts department for original equipment plugs

a) A good rule of the thumb is to get the same plugs you have in the car currently. Never
downgrade to a less expensive plug and don't think too hard about fixing something that
works already. The manufacturer installed those plugs for a very good reason, so simplify the
process and get the same ones when possible, provided they were the correct ones fitted!
Check you manual or with your local dealer.
b) You can typically buy fixed gap or adjustable gap spark plugs, so it's up to you if you want to
check your plugs regularly and make minute adjustments. If you do, get adjustable plugs.
Above all, you need to make sure the gap measurement is the correct measurement for your
car. If you check it yourself, you'll know for sure. Remove it from the package and do a quick
check to verify the measurement.
Consider cleaning around the threads before reinserting the new spark plugs.When you're
changing your plugs, it's also a good opportunity to check the wires for wear and to clean up
around the wire terminal. Use a wire brush or compressed air to clean up around the wire
connections and make sure you've got a good, clean port. Replace the wires if necessary.
Insert the new plugs and tighten with your ratchet. Using the spark-plug socket, remove each
plug from the engine, and replace each with a new spark plug. Tighten a bit (say, 1/8th of a
turn) past hand-tight only. Never over-tighten the plugs as you can easily strip the thread on
the head of the engine, and repairs are costly and time consuming. Remember to replace the
spark-plug cables on the same plugs they originally came from, and to remove the masking
tape once done. If you prefer, you can find the torque specification for the plugs in your
vehicle's service manual (not owner's manual) and use a ratchet with a torque setting.
Lubricate the plugs prior to installing them. Try putting a very small amount of anti-seize
lubricant on the plug threads if you are installing them in an aluminum engine. The anti-seize
prevents a reaction between dissimilar metals. You can also use a small amount of dielectric
 silicone compound on the inside of the spark plug wire boot to make the plugs easier to
remove in the future. Always turn the plug backwards on the thread until you have located the
hole correctly so as not to cross-thread your new plug to avoid damaging the head and plugs.
Make sure you put the spark plug wire boot back on the spark plug. You may have to push on
it a little harder to get it to "snap" on. If you don't put it on correctly, you could cause the engine
to misfire (which will make the ride feel very shaky and rough).

BRAKE OVEROLING
Front brakes on all modern cars are disc brakes. The front brakes generally provide 80% of the
stopping power, and so tend to wear faster than the rear. Replacing them pads, rotors and
calipers is quite simple once you understand the process, and can save you a great deal of
money. These instructions will include a full front brake replacement. Also, having a service
manual for your vehicle will save your sanity, as well as time and money. If you only need pads, or
pads and rotors, but not calipers, skip the steps for replacing calipers. Repeat the steps below for
each side of the car as necessary. The work will go even smoother if you ask a competent friend
to help you especially the first time you do this kind of work.
Before You Begin
Consider the symptoms of the brakes; for example:

a) If the front brakes have been squealing loudly, you may need pads only.
b) If the car or brake pedal has been shaking when braking, you'll need to have the rotors
resurfaced (called "turning"), or replace them.
c) If the car pulls to one side while braking, but stays straight otherwise, you may need calipers.
This is a sign of uneven wear of your brake pads caused by uneven pressure in your brake
lines.
d) If the brakes have a grinding noise, this means rotors are done, spent, wasted, or whatever
you want to call it, just replace them.

Determine the parts and tools you'll need. There are two bolts that hold the caliper to the pad
bracket, and two bolts that hold the pad bracket to the steering knuckle. You may need both
SAE and Metric sizes of wrenches and sockets, as well as bleeder screw wrenches. Also, you
may need a set of hex (ALLEN) or star (TORX) key wrenches or a hex or star bit socket set.
a) Consider using line wrenches to remove calipers. Theses wrenches have a better bite and
reduce the chances of rounding off hex nuts fitting on the hose end.
Buy more parts than you think you'll need. You can always return what you don't use (keep
your receipt and boxes and parts clean/undamaged). If you get caught without something
while the car is apart, you may not have transportation to go buy anything.
Removing the Wheels
Park the car in a clean, solid, well-lit place. Block the rear wheels with something heavy (like
bricks or lumber which is small enough to jam under the wheels) to prevent the car from rolling
or sliding while it's jacked up. Apply the emergency or parking brake to hold the rear wheels
fast. (The vehicle's "PARK" gear will only hold one of the drive wheels, if you have a
front-wheel drive car then it will hold only one of your front wheels and if you have a
rear-wheel drive car then it will hold only one of your back wheels).

Loosen the lug nuts before jacking the car up (do not remove lug nuts yet). If you skip this step,
loosening the lugs may be very annoying, if not impossible. It is also somewhat dangerous to
loosen lug nuts after a car has been jacked up.
Jack the car up with a sturdy jack on a solid surface (such as a floor jack if you have concrete
to work on) and lower it very slowly and carefully onto jackstands. Caution: a floor jack's
wheels need to be able to roll and the jack needs to travel a little and so it must not embed
(sink) into a soft floor or surface.

a) Never work without jackstands that are on solid flat surface like stepping-stones or wide
scraps of strong wood to keep the jackstands from sinking, leaning or tilting and falling, etc.
Position the jackstands under a solid part of the car the frame or subframe. You can
easily damage the underside of the car, or even break something.
b) Give the car a couple of good hard, small shoves from side to side; if it's going to shift, slide off
the jackstands, sink into asphalt, dirt or gravel, or just twist around and fall, better to learn now
while the wheels are on than when you're partially under it with the wheels off.

Finish removing the wheels, and lay the wheels under the car, just to the rear of the
jackstands. In case the car slips off the stands, those wheels may prevent you, your arms or
head from being caught under a falling car (preventing the car from falling to the ground) if the
jack stands fall over.
Replacing the Brakes
 Remove the caliper from the pad bracket if necessary. (Some smaller economy-car calipers
are simply held together by spring-clips, and it is very easy to remove the pads and to
compress the piston without difficulty.) Larger car and truck calipers are much more hefty and
are bolted in place. The pads may come out with the caliper, or stay in the bracket, depending
on the car. Place the caliper on top of the steering knuckle, or hang it with a piece of clothes
hanger wire or any other place where its weight won't be hanging on the brake hose, and will
not fall.

Remove the pads and inspect them for wear. You may need to siphon out some brake fluid
from the master cylinder to accommodate the fluid being forced out (by the brake caliper
piston). You should remove the cap to the brake fluid reservoir and cover it with a paper towel
or rag to prevent any foreign matter getting in there.
a) Some calipers have pistons that are made of ceramic or other sensitive materials, and merely
prying them back with a screwdriver can crack them and require replacing the entire caliper.
Consider using a C-clamp or piece of wood to force the piston back and allow the pads to be
freed, as described below in installing new calipers.
b) If either pad is down to the metal pins or backing, you'll need to machine (turn) or replace the
rotors.
c) This is also a good time to compare the wear pattern of the brakes on the left side of the car to
the ones on the right side. If there is a vast difference, you'll need to replace the calipers or
rotors.
d) Some rotors easily slide off from the wheel lug bolts, but some are made into the
wheel-hub and will require getting into the wheel bearings and grease repackingsee below.
e) Modern disc brake pads are ceramic, but older brake pads may contain asbestos, which can
be harmful if inhaled in the form of "brake dust." If your brake pads contain asbestos, you can
learn about how to clean and/or dispose of them here.

Apply anti-squeal paste to the backing of the new brake pads, but do not install them
yet. Keep fluid and lubricants off of the brake pad material. Some cars, especially Ford
Explorers/Mountaineers, have special lubricants on the caliper moving parts, and this
lubricant cannot easily be obtained separately (ask for a "heat resistant grease made for
brakes" from your auto shop). Try not to remove any of this where applicable. If these parts
 are dry and not lubricated, consider replacing the caliper, as you will probably notice other
damage or signs of problems.
Inspect the brake rotors: Always resurface the rotors with a crosshatch pattern if within spec,
if the rotors are too thin to resurface replace them. A fresh rotor surface is required for proper
break pad bedding
Inspect the brake hoses. If they are leaking by the fittings or damaged, they'll need replacing
but that is outside the scope of this article. If you are only installing brake pads, skip to the
step beginning: Clean the caliper slide pins below.

Remove brake rotors if turning or replacing them. On most cars, the rotor is separate from the
hub. Simply slide the rotor off of the lug studs. You may need to remove a set screw and/or
use a rubber mallet to loosen the rotor. You may need an impact driver (hammer it while
twisting counter-clockwise) to remove a set screw.

a) If the brake rotor and hub are one piece, remove the grease cup, cotter pin, and castle nut
from the axle to allow removal. (Only if necessary, unbolt the pad bracket from the steering
knuckle. The bolts that hold this on tend to get frozen, so you may need to employ a hammer,
breaker bar, Liquid Wrench, or a torch to loosen them.)

Get the rotors resurfaced ("turned") at a machine shop or auto parts store that turns
rotors. Some auto parts stores have brake lathes or a small machine shop. Call before
starting your job to verify hours; most machine shops are only open until noon on Saturday
and are closed on Sunday. Rotor/hub assemblies can be turned if they are not badly worn or
damaged, but consider replacing them if they are grooved. The shop should refuse to turn
them if they are thin or damaged.

a) The replacement parts may be expensive, especially if you're replacing the hub and its
bearings instead of putting the old hub and bearings back on the car. Be aware that not all
new rotor/hub assemblies include the bearings (although they may have new races in place,
so that you can just "drop in" the new grease-packed bearings). You may have to install races
and seals yourself, as well as pack them with grease. So a set of bearings may be a
necessary purchase as well.
b) When applicable, this is also a good time to repack your front wheel bearings. Refer to your
service manual or lubrication guide for this procedure. You'll need some new cotter pins and
wheel bearing grease for this, as well as a pair of needle-nose pliers.
 Install the new or resurfaced ("turned") rotors in reverse order of how they came off. New
rotors have a layer of oil on them to prevent rust while they're on the shelf. Clean this off with
carb/fuel-injector cleaner; it works better than brake cleaner in this case. Reattach the pad
bracket. If you are not replacing calipers, skip to the step beginning: Clean the caliper slide
pins below.

Replace calipers if necessary. Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is securely closed,
especially if you opened it earlier to allow for fluid to expand. Remove the "banjo" bolt holding
the brake hose to the caliper. This is a special hollow bolt that allows fluid to flow through it;
don't damage it or lose it. Make a note of its position or orientation; you will need to install it on
the new caliper in the same orientation to avoid bending and damaging the hose.

Drain the fluid from the caliper into a safe container for proper disposal.

Notice that the new caliper will come with two brass washers, plus rubber grommets for the
slide pins, pad retaining clips (if applicable), possibly new slide pins, and maybe that hollow
bolt mentioned above. Make sure that the calipers are installed with the bleeder
fittings/screws in the upper or top position. If you accidentally switch the left and right calipers
and install them on the wrong side (easier to do than you think!), the bleeder fittings will be in
a lower position, which will result in trapped air inside the caliper fluid chamber, which will
make bleeding the brakes impossible to do. Remember, bleeder screws UP!

a) When replacing the calipers it is also advisable to replace the brake hoses to the caliper.
Reattach the brake hose with a new brass or copper washer installed on both sides of the
hose fitting, that the hollow "banjo" bolt goes through.Reusing the old washers, or failure to
put the new ones in the right place will cause the brakes to leak. Tighten the bolt firmly.
 Clean the caliper slide pins if you haven't done so yet. Use a wire buffer-wheel, brush or fine
grit sandpaper, if you will be reusing them and any place where the pads slide against the
caliper or pad bracket with a wire brush. Apply silicone brake lubricant to all of those slide
locations.
Compress the caliper piston, or in some cases screw them in if necessary.Yes, some caliper
pistons (such as some Nissan) do actually screw in and out. If so, there will be notches for
a tool to engage the top of the piston. Pressing that kind of piston in will strip the threads and
ruin the calipers and pistons.

a) Using the large C-clamp: if this is the press-in kind of piston, take one of the old brake pads
and place it in the caliper against the piston to place the C-clamp against. Usually a heavy
duty 8" to 10" size (inner measurement) C-clamp will do, (lighter duty clamps will spring, bend
or break). Slowly and evenly compress the piston back into the caliper.
b) An even easier way to compress this piston is use a special (but inexpensive and readily
available) Lisle Corp Brake Pad Spreader tool (Lisle part #24400 $7.95) made specifically for
this it beats hauling a heavy 10" iron C-clamp around plus it's much faster to use!
c) Note: Prior to compressing the piston back into the caliper it's recommended you open the
bleeder screw to allow the brake fluid to come out of the caliper while you compress the piston.
This keeps the dirty fluid from going up through the brake line and possibly damaging the
Master Cylinder and the internal parts of the ABS System if your car has ABS. This also
eliminates the mess that may occur from brake fluid that will be forced into the master
cylinder.
Clean up any brake fluid that may come out of the reservoir at this point.Watch out for drips on
the side where the reservoir is located. (See Note above) Be careful, brake fluid will damage
or remove the paint from your vehicle if it is not cleaned off instantly!
 Put the new pads in the caliper or bracket. You may need to employ the large flat screwdriver
again, but be very careful so you don't destroy any of the pad clips.

Place the caliper back into the pad bracket, and bolt it in. On some brake calipers, blue
Locktite needs to be applied to the bolts that hold the caliper to its mounting point.

Bleeding the Brakes

Bleed the brakes. If you have not replaced the calipers or loosened any fittings, you can SKIP to
the next section. You may wish to bleed the brakes later if you determine that the brake
peddle feels mushy or goes down too far.
GEARBOX OVERHAULING

a) Loose bolts of gearbox connected to clutch housing.

b) Loose the bolts and other connection when the vehicle has been lifted.
c) Lift the vehicle and loose various mounting which are connected with gearbox as well as

bolts connected with it.

d) Loose the propeller shaft with gearbox lower down the vehicle and put the table just below
the gearbox and take away the bolts from upper side.

e) Drain out the oil. Remove top cover by using the bolts.

f) Lock the main shaft by engaging gear at a time.

g) Remove the bearing retainer shockers and take out the retainer from both side.

h) Remove speedometer drive gear and space.

i) Remove the lay shaft.

j) Carefully remove the gear assembly from the transmission unit.

k) Removing the bearing by placing the primary on press. Wash all parts with kerosene and
blow all durt with compressed air.
 INSPECTION

Inspect all the parts for wear and leakage. Check the following for defect :-

a) All bearing for wear and too much play.

b) All gear for worm out teeth.
c) Check shifting rod for defects.

d) Check condition for shifting forts.

e) Replace defective parts if necessary.

f) Assemble the lay shaft assembly inside the gearbox.

g) Make sure that gears are assembled in order.

h) Align the position of primary shaft.

i) Assemble speedometer gear and shaft in position.

j) All packing should be renewed.

SUSPENSION SYSTEM OVERHAULING

removing the shocks and you need to remove the nut that connects the shock to the suspension. However,
some models will require you to remove part of the brake component to get access, but this is something that
your manual will be able to advise you on.

You will then see that the shock is held by a bolt at both the top and the bottom and often this can then wriggle
free.

If this is indeed the case, then think about what you are going to do with the spring as you may be reusing it in
order to save yourself some money.

However, this is not recommended if you are relatively new to repairing your car, as it is not an easy process.

Installing the Brand New Shocks

Finally, we need to discuss how you go about installing the brand new shocks with the suspension.

The first step is to attach the brand new shock to the arm of the suspension and be prepared to have to use
some force in order to really constrict the shock until it has been put into place.

There is also the chance that you may need some assistance to lift the suspension just slightly to make it
easier for you to line up those bolts as this is something that needs to be absolutely perfect.

When the bolts are lined up correctly, tighten the nuts as much as you can to secure it into place.

Once this has been done, reattach the bolts that work through into either the engine bay or the back of the car
and secure them before going to the next step.

The final step is to check the torque that is mentioned in your manual just to make sure that everything is
indeed correct before you then go ahead and tighten everything up.

After this, the only thing you have to do is to then repeat the entire process with every shock absorber as there
is a pretty good chance you will be doing them all.

As you can see, changing the shock absorbers is actually easier than you think, but the overall suspension is a
bigger job that is harder to do and requires more specialist knowledge.
How to Replace Piston Rings

Step 1 - Access the Piston Rings

In order to get to the piston rings, youre going to have to remove the cylinder head. This is an
involved process, as youll need to disconnect many things before you can even remove the part
itself. Start by removing the exhaust manifold. Loosen the bolts holding it to the head with your
wrench, and pull it away. Then, you'll need to disconnect the distributor from the intake manifold.
There will be spark plug wires attached to it, so pull these out of place before you undo the nut
holding the distributor on top of the intake manifold. Another set of spark plug wires will need to
be disconnected before you can unbolt both the valve corners and the intake manifold itself.

The rocker arms and pushrods are your last obstacle before you get to take care of the head
itself. Fortunately, all you need to do is remove the single nut on top of each rocker arm in order
to pull it away; there will be one rocker arm and pushrod per valve. Once the rocker arms are lift
away, you can pull the pushrods up through the head.

Theres a procedure for removing the cylinder head's retaining bolts, beginning with the bolts on
the outside. When this is finally off, youll need to start cleaning the top of each cylinder. Make
sure that there is no grease or dirt present so you'll be prepared to replace the cylinder head w
hen you're finished.

Step 2 - Clean

Before you can replace the piston rings, its important to fully clean the piston. Cover all the
cylinder holes to prevent debris from the piston from falling inside. Then, simply scrape off the
dirt until enough is removed that you can pull out the piston.

Step 3 - Remove Piston Rings

Before you can change the piston rings, youll need to remove each of the cylinders. This will
vary from make to make, so youll need to consult your service manual. When youve removed
the cylinders, they will also need to be cleaned. Do this by soaking them in kerosene before
allowing them to dry completely. Do this in a well-ventilated area.

Youll need to use your piston ring tool to remove the old piston rings. Before replacing them,
check each of the ring grooves on the piston for wear by using a feeler gauge to see if they still
meet the proper specifications. If the grooves have worn too much, replacing the piston rings
wont be enough; youll need a complete new piston. If the rings dont want to move, you can
loosen them by soaking them overnight in diesel oil.

Step 4 - Install New Piston Rings

When youre ready to put on the replacements, you need to stretch them with your piston ring
tool as you fit them over the piston. However, you need to be very careful that you dont stretch
them so much that they break (if they do, new piston rings are very cheap).

Make sure that the piston rings are secure in the ring grooves. When youve done that, inspect
the piston once more before replacing it along with the connecting rods. Reverse the process
you used to remove them. Then, before replacing the cylinder head, check the head gasket. In
most instances, you should replace it while working on the piston rings.

Finally, put on the cylinder head and reattach all the other items to the engine block to finish.

AUTOSHOP EQUIPMANT

SCREW DRIVER

A screwdriver is a tool, manual or powered, for turning (driving or removing) screws. A typical

simple screwdriver has a handle and a shaft, and a tip that the user inserts into the screw head to
turn it. The shaft is usually made of tough steel to resist bending or twisting. The tip may be
hardened to resist wear, treated with a dark tip coating for improved visual contrast between tip

and screwor ridged or treated for additional 'grip'. Handles are typically wood, metal, or
plastic[1] and usually hexagonal, square, or oval in cross-section to improve grip and prevent the
tool from rolling when set down. Some manual screwdrivers have interchangeable tips that fit

into a socket on the end of the shaft and are held in mechanically or magnetically. These often

have a hollow handle that contains various types and sizes of tips, and a
reversible ratchet action that allows multiple full turns without repositioning the tip or the user's
hand.

SPANNERS

A wrench (or spanner outside of North America) is a tool used to provide grip and mechanical
advantage in applying torque to turn objectsusually rotary fasteners, such as nuts and bolts

or keep them from turning.

PLIERS

Pliers are a hand tool used to hold objects firmly, possibly developed from tongs used to handle

hot metal in Bronze Age Europe.[1] They are also useful for bending and compressing a wide
range of materials. Generally, pliers consist of a pair of metal first-class levers joined at
a fulcrum positioned closer to one end of the levers, creating short jaws on one side of the

fulcrum, and longer handles on the other side.[1] This arrangement creates a mechanical
advantage, allowing the force of the hand's grip to be amplified and focused on an object with
precision. The jaws can also be used to manipulate objects too small or unwieldy to be

manipulated with the fingers.

Pincers are a similar tool with a different type of head used for cutting and pulling, rather than
squeezing. Tools designed for safely handling hot objects are usually called tongs. Special tools

for making crimp connections in electrical and electronic applications are often called "crimping

pliers"; each type of connection uses its own dedicated tool.

HAMMERS

A hammer is a tool or device that delivers a blow (a sudden impact) to an object. Most hammers

are hand tools used to drive nails, fit parts, forge metal, and break apart objects. Hammers vary
in shape, size, and structure, depending on their purposes.

Hammers are basic tools in many trades. The usual features are a head (most often made

of steel) and a handle (also called a helveor haft). Most hammers are hand tools, but there are
also many powered versions, called power hammer (such as steam hammersand trip hammers)
for heavier uses, such as forging.

Some hammers have other names, such as sledgehammer, mallet and gavel. The term

"hammer" also applies to other devices that deliver blows, such as the hammer of a firearm or
the hammer of a piano.
 MEASURING TOOL

A measuring instrument is a device for measuring a physical quantity. In the physical

sciences, quality assurance, and engineering, measurement is the activity of obtaining and
comparing physical quantities of real-world objects and events. Established standard objects

and events are used as units, and the process of measurement gives a number relating the item
under study and the referenced unit of measurement. Measuring instruments, and formal test

methods which define the instrument's use, are the means by which these relations of numbers
are obtained. All measuring instruments are subject to varying degrees of instrument
error and measurement uncertainty.

Scientists, engineers and other humans use a vast range of instruments to perform

their measurements. These instruments may range from simple objects such
as rulers and stopwatches to electron microscopes and particle accelerators. Virtual
instrumentation is widely used in the development of modern measuring instruments.

DIAL GAUGE , MICROMETER , VERNIER CALLIPER

LUBRICATING EQUIPMENT

Lubrication is the process or technique employed to reduce friction between, and wear of one or

both, surfaces in proximity and moving relative to each other, by interposing a substance called
a lubricant in between them. The lubricant can be a solid, (e.g. Molybdenum disulfide MoS2)[1] a
solid/liquid dispersion, a liquid such as oil or water, a liquid-liquid dispersion (a grease) or a gas.
With fluid lubricants the applied load is either carried by pressure generated within the liquid due
to the frictional viscous resistance to motion of the lubricating fluid between the surfaces, or by

the liquid being pumped under pressure between the surfaces.

WHEEL BALANCING EQUIPMENT

HYDRAULIC PRESS AND ARBOR PRESS

 PISTON GROOVE CLEANER

PISTON RING

A piston ring is a split ring that fits into a groove on the outer diameter of a piston in
a reciprocating engine such as an internal combustion engine or steam engine.

The three main functions of piston rings in reciprocating engines are :

1. Sealing the combustion chamber so that there is minimal loss of gases to the crank case.

2. Improving heat transfer from the piston to the cylinder wall.

3. Regulating engine oil consumption by scraping oil from the cylinder walls back to the

sump.[1]

REMOVER

COMPRESSOR
 BENCH VICE

A vise or vice is a mechanical apparatus used to secure an object to allow work to be

performed on it. Vises have two parallel jaws, one fixed and the other movable, threaded in

and out by a screw and lever.

BETTERY TESTING AND CHARGING EQUIPMENT

A battery tester is an electronic device intended for testing the state of an electric battery, going
from a simple device for testing the charge actually present in the cells and/or its voltage output,
to a more comprehensive testing of the battery's condition, namely its capacity for accumulating

charge and any possible flaws affecting the battery's performance and security.
 JACK

A jack is a mechanical device used as a lifting device to lift heavy loads or to apply great forces.

A mechanical jack employs a screw thread for lifting heavy equipment. A hydraulic
jack uses hydraulic power.[1] The most common form is a car jack, floor jack or garage jack,
which lifts vehicles so that maintenance can be performed. Jacks are usually rated for a

maximum lifting capacity (for example, 1.5 tons or 3 tons). Industrial jacks can be rated for many
tons of load.

HYDRAULIC JACK , MECHANICAL JACK

AXLE STAND

SOCKETS

Sockets are available in various depths or lengths, often divided by most manufacturers into two
categories of "standard" and "deep" according to the ANSI or DIN standard they are made to and
the tolerances allowed by those specifications for each length of socket. Because the standards
allow for some flexibility in tolerances, it is common to see two manufacturers make deep
sockets of the same size but with slightly different depths even though both meet the same

specification. Standard length, otherwise known as "shallow" sockets, have a lower profile and

allow a user to access nuts in narrow spaces. Deep sockets are useful for turning nuts onto bolts
when the bolt extends upwards into the socket (as in the case of many bolted joints), a very
typical example being exhaust clamp bolts on a car.

Although most manufacturers offer only those sizes and depths described within the common
ANSI or DIN specifications, some exceptions do exist. Specialty manufacturers such
as IMPERIAL-Newton Corp offer an expanded range of "extra deep" sockets for special

industrial applications; and popular brands like Snap-on or Mac Tools offer what are called
"semi-deep" or "mid-length" sockets, which provide much of a deep socket's depth, while fitting
in tighter locations.

ALLEN KEY

A hex key (Allen key or Allen wrench) is a hexagonally shafted tool used to drive bolts
and screws with corresponding sockets in their heads.

WRENCHES
 SPEED HANDLE

A crank-shaped handle that rapidly loosens or tightens a fastener when used with the correct

socket. It works much like a brace and bit adapted to sockets

ratchet

The most common type of socket wrench. The ratcheting mechanism allows the nut to be

tightened or loosened with a reciprocating motion, without requiring that the wrench be removed
and refitted after each turn. Typically, a small lever on the ratchet head switches the wrench

between tightening and loosening mode.

The most prevalent form is the ratcheting socket wrench, often called a ratchet. A ratchet is

a hand tool in which a metal handle is attached to a ratcheting mechanism, which attaches to a

socket, which in turn fits onto a type of bolt or nut. Pulled or pushed in one direction, the ratchet
loosens or tightens the bolt or nut attached to the socket. Turned the other direction, the ratchet

does not turn the socket but allows the ratchet handle to be re-positioned for another turn while
staying attached to the bolt or nut. This ratcheting action allows the fastener to be rapidly
tightened or loosened in small increments without disconnecting the tool from the fastener. A

switch is built into the ratchet head that allows the user to apply the ratcheting action in either
direction, as needed, to tighten or loosen a fastener. Other common methods of driving socket

wrenches include pneumatic impact wrenches, hydraulic torque wrenches, torque multipliers and

breaker bars. Some lesser known hybrid drivers include striking wrench tools with square drive,
and hydraulic impact wrenches (typically powered by on site hydraulic power such as present

with military tanks, and many rail car applications).

 beam-style torque wrench

Usually non-ratcheting, made to attach to standard sockets. By monitoring the degree of beam
deflection, the applied torque can be determined.

PNEUMATIC TOOL

A pneumatic tool, air tool, air-powered tool or pneumatic-powered tool is a type of power tool,

driven by compressed air, supplied by an air compressor. Pneumatic tools can also be driven by
compressed carbon dioxide (CO2) stored in small cylinders allowing for portability. Pneumatic

tools are safer to run and maintain than their electric power tool equivalents, and have a

higher power-to-weight ratio, allowing a smaller, lighter tool to accomplish the same
task. General grade pneumatic tools with short life span are commonly cheaper and are also

called disposable tools in tooling industries while industrial grade pneumatic tools with long life

span are more expensive. In general, pneumatic tools are cheaper than the equivalent

electric-powered tools.
LIFT

Car Lift refers to the automotive repair industry for automotive lifting equipments . Lift in the automotive
repair and maintenance plays a crucial role, regardless of vehicle overhaul or minor repairs and
maintenance , are inseparable from it , the nature of the product , quality directly affects the safety of
maintenance personnel . In the repair and maintenance companies of all sizes , whether it is the
maintenance of a variety of models of integrated class repair shop , or business scope single street shops
( such as tire shop ) , almost all equipped with a lift .
A full service is far more comprehensive and your mechanic will carry out
checks that are not included in the minor package. For that reason, it's
advisable that you have a full service at least every other year. In addition to
the checks mentioned above, the mechanic will look at the condition of your
spark plugs, oil and air pollen filters and lights. Plus they'll remove your wheel
to take a closer look at your brakes.

SPECIFICATIONS

BALENO
VITARA BREZZA