HighAngle TrainingHandout 05 AscentToDescent

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HIGH ANGLE RESCUE

TRAINING HANDOUT

No 5 : CHANGE FROM ASCENT TO DESCENT


This training handout may be freely reproduced
and distributed in an unaltered form.
The School For
Mountain Leadership

Web:

NEED MORE INFO?


SML
P. O. Box 2094
Wingate Park
0153
Tel:
082-652-1490
Fax:
0866-79-0777
Email: [email protected]
http://www.sml.co.za/

This training handout is an aide-memoire for students who have completed the appropriate
training. Do NOT attempt these techniques without proper training getting it wrong can be
lethal!

A useful skill for anyone working on rope is the ability to change from ascending to descending
whilst free-hanging on a rope. This illustration shows one way of doing this there will be
others. Note the use of a rope-grab instead of a chest ascender is deliberate its easier
with a chest ascender.
Step 1

Step 2

Move the handled ascender


down.

Connect your
descender

Get your handled ascender a


little lower than normal. Youll
be moving it even lower just
before you commit your weight
to your descending device
(Figure-8, Rescue-8, etc).

Pull up some rope and


connect your
descending device (in
this case a Rescue-8).
If youre using a
figure-8 then see our
Abseiling Tutorial
No 1: Threading a
Figure-8 for a
technique that
reduces the chances
of dropping the device
whilst threading it.
Remove as much of
the slack between
your descender and
the chest ascender as
you can. Failure to
remove enough slack
will cause problems
later.
Once you have
removed as much
slack as you can then
lock off the device.
Even a self-locking
device such as a Petzl
Stop needs to be hard-locked to prevent a
slow slip from starting once youve put your
weight onto it.
Check carabiners!

Member: R. E. Thomas

Step 3

Step 4

Remove your chest


ascender

Remove your handled


ascender.

Bring your handled


ascender down until it is
about 15cm above your
chest ascender. This
reduces the chances of it
ending up out of reach
once you have
disconnected the chest
ascender.

You do not need to remove


the attachment from your
harness. Simply remove
the handled ascender from
the rope and clip it to a
gear loop on your harness.
Unlock and abseil away!

Stand up in the foot loop


and disconnect the chest
ascender from the rope.
Slowly sit down, checking
that your weight comes
onto the descender
without cross-loading a
carabiner. Make sure that
your lock-off doesnt
partially unlock while
unweighted.
If youre using a rope grab
(as pictured here) then
you can disconnect it by
unscrewing the carabiner
attaching it to your
harness before standing
up. Instead of trying to
disassemble it while youre
standing, disconnect it
from your harness and sit
down. You can remove it
from the rope while
hanging in a sitting
position with hands free.

Problem solving:
If you cannot unweight your handled ascender you can stand up in it and disconnect the
carabiner connecting it to your harness. This will remove your weight from it and allow you to
remove it from the rope.
If the handled ascender it a little too high to remove then tie a knot below your descender to
create a foot-loop in the rope in order to stand up a small distance (10-20cm). Dont forget to
untie the knot afterwards.

Please contact us at the above addresses for further information.

Member: R. E. Thomas

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