Stylish Peranakan: Take Home
Stylish Peranakan: Take Home
Stylish Peranakan: Take Home
STYLISH
PERANAKAN
CHINOISERIE
Asian Pastry
Cup Update
MOLECULAR RAW
MIXOLOGY NATURE
DEAN AT KAKUNI
DAVA AT RIN
Take Home
CHEF
presidents’ message
TASTE TASTE
team contents
Dear Members and Friends, Dear Colleagues,
March and April are a highlight for It is an honour for us, the Association
the entire culinary community as of Culinary Professionals Indonesia to
we prepare for Indonesia’s largest work together with PT Pamerindo to
5. President’s Message create the 7th Annual Salon Culinaire
editorial consultant culinary event, Salon Culinaire
2009. The event will feature many
Sarah Dougherty 2009. Training for the many levels
6. Short Order levels of competition including the
of competition is vital to success
contributors B’ocuse D’Or Jakarta selection, the
Kathryn, Kora, Marco Rucola, Katrina 8. Dean at Dava and many of our teams have been
Indonesian Asian Pastry Cup competition and the first Junior
Valkenberg, Es Dee, Kayti planning and practicing for months already. We wish them
Asian Chef Challenge.
11. Asian Pastry Cup all good luck as they head for competition against chefs from
coordinator & marketing 8
all over Indonesia. The culinary competition will be held in Held at the same time is the Food and Hotel Exhibition
Miranti Amandya 12. Take Home Chef, Andreas
conjunction with Food and Hotel Indonesia 2009 in Jakarta. Indonesia. All events will be held at the Jakarta International
Krampl
photographers Expo Kemayoran from April 15th to 18th. As members of
Dewandra, Sarah, Mia, Setiavan Purwanto
14. Technique: Kakuni This competition will also include the Asian Pastry Cup the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS) it is a great
graphic designers national selection, with the winning team then qualifying to pleasure for us to host a number of qualified international
DeKa 16. Perfume Dinner represent Indonesia in Singapore 2010. WACS judges to the event and to host our sister organization
from Bali (BCP).
distribution 18. Change is coming
Putu Suardika, Gede Sudiartawan, 16 Salon Culinaire 2009 will also feature the 2nd Bocuse D’Or
A major focus for our organizations at this time is fostering new
Arif Junaidi 22. Comings and Goings Asia Selection Jakarta in preparation of national selection
talent and this year’s first Junior Asian Chef Challenge will see our
in Bali 2010. The Bocuse D’Or is the world famous salmon
cover photograph 26. Molecular Mixology young chefs competing against Junior chefs from neighbouring
cooking competition. Last year Indonesia was represented, for
Pork Belly Kakuni by Dewandra Djenlantik Memorable cakes from Ixora countries in a hot cooking competition. As they represent the
the first time, by a team from Bulgari Bali.
future of our industry, this will be a great opportunity for them to
office
28 . Dr. Rocket compete in a wider arena and develop their skills.
BCP Secretariat (attn. Kathryn)
This is also a very challenging time for our Young Chefs, as
Travel Works Communication International
30. Tapas Trio: Mozaic in addition to the first Junior Asian Chef compitetion held We are looking forward to seeing some creative and skilful
Jl. Kesari no. 60a, Sanur 80223, Bali, 26
Indonesia each year at Salon Culinaire, the stakes have been raised by cooking at this event and also welcoming major suppliers to the
32. Thoroughly Modern:
Tel: 62 – 361 – 284095 WACS (World Association of Chefs) who are offering valuable industry who will exhibit their goods. It is a very exciting and
Chinoiserie
Fax: 62 – 361 – 270189 scholarship programs in addition to the existing prizes. Thank stimulating time for our members and guest and we look forward
E-mail: [email protected] 38. Chef’s Day Out you all for your support and great work and good luck to those to welcoming many of you,
Website: www.balichefs.com
who are competing.
Culinary Greetings,
Made Putra Vindex Valentino Tengker,
President ACP,
BCP President,
Committee member of Salon Culinaire 2009.
Executive Chef Laguna Resort and Spa.
Easter orders
According to St Regis’ Pastry Chef, Vincent Stopin, working with
Food and Hotel
chocolate in France is as revered as the art of wine-making. The deli
at St Regis is a dream come true for lovers of fine chocolate as Vincent
Indonesia 2009
creates a selection of hand made treasures for every occasion. To delight
In what promises to be the biggest Food and Hotel Indonesia Expo to date, the
your loved ones this Easter, Vincent will be creating a selection of Easter
10th annual event brings together a total of 767 companies from 34 countries
treats from the very best Valhrona chocolate. Whether it be bunnies and
showcasing a range of products and services for the hospitality industry.
eggs or a beautifully presented box of truffles, these chocolates come in
almost every flavour and shape you can imagine. To order ahead phone
Suppliers, manufacturers and producers are optimistic that despite the
St Regis on (0361) 8478111, and ask for the deli.
economic downturn the food and beverage industry will remain strong says
one of the organisers.
The event, organised by PT Pamerindo Buana Abadi, will be held at the Jakarta
International Expo Kemayoran from April 13th to the 18th.
Held in conjunction with the Food and Hotel Exhibition, this year’s Salon
Culinaire event will feature a number of inaugural competitions as well as
showcasing the skill and creativity of Indonesia’s culinary professionals in many
existing competition events.
Ice carving, fruit, butter and vegetable carving, sushi making, practical
cooking (hot and cold) and cake decoration are among the competitions held.
International judges are on hand to select the best from a large number of
competitors as well as judging the major competitions; The First Junior Asian
Chef Competition and the first Indonesian Barista competition will feature as
will The Asian pastry Cup (Indonesia) and the Bocuse D’Or salmon competition
(Jakarta heat). This is an exciting event on many levels and is the largest show
of this type in Indonesia. Organised by PT Pamerindo Buana Abadi, the event
brings together the very best of the culinary industry.
Competition
moments. In particular in the case of the
ornate sugar displays, created using isomalt,
which is better suited to the tropics, as they are
prone to break or collapse.
Buddies
The teams consist of a local pastry chef and
an assistant. Having known each other and
worked together for over ten years, the two
team mates have a healthy respect for each
other and have already identified the tasks each
The World Pastry Cup held in Lyon is likened to the world cup of will take on.
the pastry world. Competitors have been known to head for France
“Wayan first came to work with me at Ritz
months in advance and devote themselves completely to study and Carlton, Bali, as a trainee,” explains Made who
training in the Mecca of patisserie. is still employed at Ritz Carlton, soon to be
re-launched as Ayana.
Coconut lumpia, lemon grass yoghurt sorbet, Vincent is now his boss and he has risen to
the position of sous pastry chef at St Regis,
mango, crispy black rice however the two have decided to remain a
Lemon grass yoghurt sorbet Black rice bubbles Glazed mango team and compete together. As Wayan’s boss,
Ingredient Ingredient Ingredient Vincent is one of very few ex-pat pastry chefs
5gm Stabiliser 100gm Black rice cooking liquid Mango, cut in to cubes 2cm x 2 cm working here.
150gm Sugar 75gm Icing sugar Sugar
100gm Liquid glucose 80gm Sour cream
“The competition is very intense. Everything
400gm Lemon grass 2gm Lecite Preparation
50ml Lemon, juiced 1. Dust mango with sugar and glaze with must be completed in front of the judges in
Last year’s Indonesian finalists in The Asian judges will agree, it sometimes come down eight hours. Your hygiene, the cleanliness of
200gm Yoghurt Preparation a blow tourch
900ml Water 1. Use the liquid from boiling black rice, Pastry Cup, Wayan Laspina, now at St Regis, to personal taste,” says Stefan who has been a your workstation, team work, as well as the
mix with sour cream, icing sugar and Coconut Mousse and I Made Sutisna of Ritz Carlton, have judge before. Bali will enter two teams in this results, are all considered by the judges.”
Preparation lecite Ingredient three years experience competing, increasingly year’s competition, while Jakarta will enter
1. Bring to the boil lemongrass, lemon 2. Froth with hand blender before using 250gms Coconut cream getting closer to France. Last year they came three. The finals, held in Jakarta, as part of the
juice, sugar and glucose 50ml Thickened cream, Top points are given for taste however, which
2. Allow to cool to 450C and add stabiliser, Mango jelly semi whipped fourth in the Singapore regional competition. Salon Culinaire this April will decide who goes remains a challenge for local chefs who have
strain and completly cool Ingredient 60gms Egg white This year however France has come to them in to the next level in Singapore in 2010. not grown up with pastry as part of their
3. Add yoghurt and churn in ice cream 25ml Water 10gm Gelatine leaves, soaked the form of their mentor, St Regis pastry chef culinary experience. With countries like Japan
machine 25gm Sugar 60gm Sugar Vincent Stopin. “The competition is quite intense,” explains entering as many as ten teams, and many other
1gm Agar agar
Stefan, “there are a number of elements. A teams having the added benefit of healthy
Crispy black rice 50gm Mango puree Preparation
Ingredient 1pc Leaf gelatine, soaked 1. Place egg whites in a blender. Heat sugar Arriving at St Regis with a Styrofoam cut out chocolate cake must be created, as Valhrona is sponsorship, allowing them time to travel and
100gm Black rice to soft ball and pour over the egg whites of their proposed sugar sculpture, Vincent and one of the sponsors. They must also create a study and focus completely on their entries,
100ml Icing sugar Preparation beating on high speed. team leader Stefan Mueller of Nikko Resort, plated dessert made using Ravifruit, the other this is a serious level of competition.
1000mls Vegetable oil 1. Mix agar agar, sugar and water, bring to 2. Add gelatine and add in coconut in began to dissect the elements of their entry. sponsor, a producer of fruit purees, a chocolate
the boil stages.
The four levels of entry must be in line with showpiece and a sugar sculpture.” One in which Indonesia is still finding its legs,
Preparation: 2. Add mango, heat then add gelatine 3. Fill plastic moulds (cylinder shape) and
1. Boil rice till soft, strain and allow to 3. Pour in to flat tray set in refridgerator current trends, show creativity and skill and a but each year with more experience and greater
steam dry 4. When set, cut in to squares and roll 4. When set unmould and wrap in mango wow factor. As the Ravifruit product is not available in knowledge, the natural creativity of our chefs
2. Deep fry rice until crispy. cool and dust around coconut mouse jelly Indonesia, Boiron is the proposed alternative, a is gaining more attention.
with icing sugar “ It can be quite subjective as well. Not all the French puree product distributed in Indonesia
When six of Bali’s top chefs donated their planning involved matching available wines pleasantly surprised to find a kitchen that
time in an auction to raise funds for the to the best ingredients on offer at Lotus and surpassed his own and had almost every
BCP’s Young Chef ’s Scholarship Fund at Gourmet Garage, the agreed supplier for appliance and condiment he required for
last year’s Gala Dinner, the bidding was the event. the execution.
enthusiastic and fierce.
The day began with a meeting at Lotus Watching an experienced chef at work is like
Writer and Wine consultant, Katrina where a discussion with Bill Bush provided watching an artist at create. Firstly the mise-
Valkenberg was elated when she successfully an outline of what he recommended from en-place is prepared, the menu is written,
bid for the services of Ritz Carlton’s among his current stock. Katrina and the wine is chilled, the table is laid and by
Executive Chef, Andreas Krampl, and Andreas slowly picked through the freshest the time the guests arrive at 7.30, it is clear
the scene was set for an outstanding and and best quality ingredients to create a that the night will be a memorable one. The
intimate event. menu fit for the feast. guests were also happy knowing that the
dinner served to help foster young talent in
As Andreas was planning to leave for Dubai Bill was also able to confirm the list of this country.
in January, the timing for the dinner was current wines and the careful matching of
crucial and the date was set just days prior dishes and accompanying wines began to As we have come to expect, Andreas created
to his departure. shape the menu. a menu for this evening that showed skill,
flair and a mastering of technique. The
Katrina’s experience as a wine consultant, The shopping complete, the small group wine was a near perfect match, with only
and sommelier to the Chaine des Rotisseurs, then made their way to Katrina’s riverside one showing signs of stress…and the rest is
Andreas finishes his Foie Gras Brullee
added another layer to the dinner as the home near to Canggu where the chef was culinary history.
Kakuni
confusing to the palate. Richard’s recipe is based on the original
it has been given his personal stamp with For Richard the greatest challenge was
The menu at Rin is based on Kaiseki, a the use of rice porridge to retain the meat’s to create a Japanese Restaurant that was
multi course meal that in Japan will be moisture while cooking. modern but still traditional in its execution
adorned with items from nature that reflect and delivery, so as to offer a comfortable,
the seasons. Richard enlisted the help of Richard has selected the belly from Kurobuta quality dining experience for The Conrad’s
Richard Millar the Tokyo Conrad Chef from Kazahana pigs to use in his kakuni, it is the Japanese many Japanese, Asian and western guests.
Kakuni is a Japanese braised pork dish, which literally when constructing the recipes for Rin and word for black pig which comes from the
means “square simmered”. together they carefully achieved authentic Berkshire breed of pork and is considered “So far I am very happy with what I have
Understanding a technique, knowing its origins and the authentic flavours flavours ; 90% of the ingredients used are to be the wagyu of pigs. The method for achieved at Rin, as this was my first attempt
lends a chef to adaptation. The dish must still retain its authenticity to be sourced from Japan to ensure the integrity preparing kakuni is to first fry the belly in to successfully create such a challenging new
truly successful but with knowledge and experience a centuries-old traditional of each dish. a pan, then blanche it in water to remove concept in such detail. Now I am excited
dish can be transposed in a modern kitchen. the excess fat and then to immerse in a about evolving our menu and working on a
A style of cooking that won us over at a rice porridge and steam together for eight series of sake dinners and other promotional
When Richard Millar went to Japan to work for Sheraton Grande Ocean recent BCP lunch is very typical of the hours. The belly is then taken out of the ideas to build the brand and develop Rin’s
Resort at Seagaia in Miyazaki, the Southeastern part of Kyushu. He fell in food of Kyushu. Kakuni, is thought to be porridge and slowly simmered in a stock of reputation for quality dining.”
love; with the country, the culture, the people, and with its cuisine. The originally Chinese but has been prepared in dashi, konbu, sake, shoyu, ginger and mirin
AROMA or
PERFUME?
Pacific Oyster
Bisque
INGREDIENTS
What do the chef and the perfume maker have in
6 pieces Pacific oysters
common? They both work with aromatics, albeit 0.25 liter Rich chicken stock
more often than not, different ones. 0.25 liter Fresh cream
10 grams Fresh parsley
20 grams Fresh spinach leaves
10 grams Micro greens
50 grams Cold butter
1 piece Lime (for juice)
Where the chef relies on his herbs for added on the richness of the preparation. For a
1 gram Pepper
flavour, the perfumer looks to flowers as concentrated sauce that is used sparingly
1 gram Sea salt
well as plants for his inspiration. you may use 30 drops whereas for the soup
10 grams Salmon roe (optional)
we have featured here, just three drops were
1 drop Jasmine essential oil
In a most unusual union, St Regis recently enough to have an impact.
hosted a Master Perfumer, Nicholas de Barry PREPARATION
from France as part of their Aficionado “This soup, which is a recipe I have used
Rinse and shuck the oysters, keep in their
program. Together with Executive Chef, for years, it has to be finished just before
juice in a bowl and set aside.
Oscar Perez, the two determined to finish the serving, and was to my taste the most
perfume workshop with a tasting event and a successful pairing in the menu. The jasmine
Bring the chicken stock and cream in a soup
gala dinner combining the skills of each. was not a predictable addition but it really
pot to a boil. Place in a blender and start
worked well,” continues Oscar.
to blend at high speed. Add carefully the
“It really took us months to get this together, parsley and spinach leaves and continue to
it was a lot of trial and error and often we The dinner was an intimate affair for just
blend until you reach a smooth texture and
were both surprised by what we discovered,” thirty guests and the response from diners
a bright leafy green color. Add 4 fresh oysters
explains Oscar. was enthusiastic.
and their juice and continue to blend. Strain
the bisque through a fine strainer and bring
“The trick I found was to start with a fairly “Many of the raw ingredients for the essential
the soup back gently to simmering point.
neutral base and to go very slowly with the oils are ones the chef also uses; thyme,
Adjust the soup with 1 drop of Jasmine
essential oils as though they may have a lemongrass, vanilla. Nevertheless I learned
essential oil, lime juice and season with salt
strong aroma, the taste may be very mild, a lot about aromatics and food through
and pepper
too much will make it bitter. It is really a this exercise, it really was a learning curve. I
matter of removing the usual aromatics and believe it was for both of us,” he says.
In a soup plate/bowl place one (1) oyster in
then finding flavours that replace them but the center and gently pour the cream soup
somehow work in harmony with the dish,” “When all the flavours and smells start to
and garnish with micro greens and fresh
he explains. get overwhelming, Nicholas advised me to
salmon roe (optional). The raw oyster will
stop for a cigarette. Surprising advice, but
be perfectly poached in the bisque and will
They also found that the volume depends it worked.”
give a sensational experience.
Replacements?
Substitutions?
Change?
Whether
By Susan
Island
Inspirations
The newest creations from Hospitality Essentials
include stunning inlays of shell and coconut. This
FAREWELL TO JOSEF friendship and wish you all continued success. Agung from Chandi Restaurant) and spent combination of natural materials creates a striking,
For many in Bali, saying farewell to Josef Zopf will Auf Wiedesehen.” a semester studying wine in the Napa Valley modern design, which is suitable for corporate or
be emotional. Having spent ten years running the Back at you Josef, you will be missed. during his early training. resort properties. As with all Hospitality Essentials
kitchens of Aerowisata Catering, he is a familiar
accessories, all of the designs can be modified to
face, an active member of BCP’s committee and a NEW MEMBERS He has also worked for Sheraton in Phuket.
good friend to many. His wife Jo, often by his side, Philip Mimbimi As Chef de Cuisine at Hu’u he has introduced
suit the needs of the hospitality industry, ensuring
will also be sorely missed. Nutmegs new Chef de Cuisine, Philip a modern Asian and Global menu with great they will complement your specific interior design
Mimbimi might have a tricky name but success. Nutmegs is located at Hu’u Bar Bali concept perfectly.
Josef says, “I have had a wonderful ten years in the experience he brings to this position in Jl Petitenget.
Jenggala Mug
Bali. I have really enjoyed working with both the is nonetheless impressive, and indeed he
local and the expat chefs who have contributed is already known to quite a few in the BCP Alexander Elrich.
so much to the excellent hospitality industry we community having worked at Ritz Carlton Our newest member of BCP, Alexander Elrich
now have here. I have also really enjoyed the team Jakarta and Four Seasons Singapore among has ten years F&B experience in Indonesia,
spirit and mateship that has developed in Bali’s
Culinary Community and especially in BCP. For
me, it has been a tremendous privilege to have
other international postings.
[email protected]
steaks and bechamels, but to introduce
Fred at
cooking methods, to bring new dimensions
create a program of wine dinners aimed at
to local ingredients and increase the variety
the luxury market.
offered while maintaining the use of local
Driving
Robert has done almost every job there is in
F&B from trainee in the kitchen to working
The key to good training, according to Fred,
on training
the floor and he has a great appreciation of
F&B
is not to show someone how to do something
the value of a good F&B team. His recent
and have them copy or follow your
wine dinner promotions are aimed at
instructions. It is to impart the knowledge
adding value to his guest’s experience as well
of how and why things work as they do, to
as supporting his fine dining program. Taste Magazine recently had the pleasure of catching up with chef Fred
explain the alchemical reactions, the effects
who has returned to Bali, after leaving Gado Gado for a stint in Cairo. of steaming that produces a different result
“Sometimes you have to spend money to
to frying. This makes it more interesting
make money. Bulgari is a luxury brand, Currently juggling a couple of projects since
to learn, to find out the why and how not
long associated with jewels. People have a returning, one of which will be Sardine,
just what to do. This is something that Fred
perception of Bulgari that is long standing a new concept in seafood dining on the
himself learned, after years of being shown
and the resort is looked upon as another jewel border of Pettitenget and Banjar Semer,
what to do he was faced with the challenge
in the brand. Our guests have an expectation Fred is currently in residence at the Hotel
of trying to understand why.
of the kind of experience they will have here Tugu, Sire Beach, Lombok where he is
and we need to support that.” undertaking the training of the chefs to
He feels that you not only do better when
deliver an expanded menu to guests.
you understand you can actually use that
Bulgari’s wine dinners often feature some of
knowledge to make informed decisions in
the world’s most expensive, quality wines. Well known for their authentic Indonesian
creating other recipes and applying that
“Influential wine makers come to meet our cuisine the Tugu Sire beach is looking to
knowledge to other aspects of cooking that
guests, often in very intimate events. We expand its menu. In recognition that the
lead to an ownership of creativity rather
can draw on our own cellars at a time like external dining choices in the area are
than a simple ability to follow blindly.
this when supplies are challenging and we limited, and with guests opting to stay for
also have wine connoisseurs here in Bali longer periods, it was felt that an increase
This naturally leads to the creation of more
Two different general managers, two very different who can come to discuss styles and vintages in alternatives would provide a stimulating
innovative local chefs, and is something we
at the events.”
properties, yet both have chosen to add value for their and satisfying experience for not just the
can all look forward to….
guests but for the staff who cook at the
guests through food and beverage promotions. This year Robert Lagerway promises to Tugu, Sire Beach. Wasabi-crusted snapper
redefine the concept of his wine dinners,
Robert Kelso is the long serving General each month over the previous year when the although he is reluctant to spell out how. Fred has been delighted by the enthusiastic
Manager at Dynasty Resort in Tuban. The promotion did not run. “ There are two very different approaches response to his innovations and while
resort has been undergoing a major facelift to wine dinners,” he explains, “one camp lamenting that Indonesian cuisine is not as
and is adding a beach club, a new live “We wanted to raise funds for people who believes that the food should play second well known or appreciated as it deserves to
Asian cooking restaurant, has established don’t benefit from tourism, and our guests fiddle to the wine in these events, the be in the rest of the world he has nothing
a street-front Indian restaurant run by have responded really well. Many of our other believes, as I do, that the food can be but praise for his ten strong team of male
Queen’s Tandoor group and continues to repeat guests are aware of the work we do in challenging and by doing that, can create a and female chefs.
run promotions through the very successful those small communities and they really want more exciting event.”
Golden Lotus Chinese Restaurant. to help. They feel good about it and it is good They are already versed in culinary terms
for our business and the perception people While operating in two different markets, and have responded to his ideas with
For over ten years, on and off, the Dynasty have about us,” explains Robert Kelso. both Robert Kelso and Robert Lagerway enthusiasm. He says he has learnt as much
has been running a promotion that benefits believe that supporting their chefs and as he has taught by being able to work with
the East Bali Poverty project, Eat Out For At the tip of the luxury iceberg, at Bulgari creating a team that works together to people knowledgeable about local produce
A Child. Running over three months, Resort, Robert Lagerway is a GM who is meet their market demands, is key to the that he can then incorporate into a broader
they have raised in total over Rp2 billion also about changing perception. In his case success of their resorts. Whether raising based cuisine.
by giving 5% of their food and beverage he wants to alter the perception his guests revenue or raising guest expectations is the
revenue to the charity. They promote to and potential clients have about the culinary agenda, these two resorts have proved that The need is not so much to teach ‘western
their guests and found last year that their scene in Bali. He is using his extensive wine F&B plays a key role in successful resort cooking’ which Fred says most Indonesian
revenue was raised by an average of 26% cellar and knowledge of the industry to management. chefs understand as pastas with sauces or
The term started to be used to in the caviar? We are not talking Beluga or Sevruga
late1990s to describe a new style of cooking here but tiny spheres made to accompany
in which some chefs began to explore new cocktails.
possibilities in the kitchen by embracing
science, research, technological advances in Caviar in the cocktail world is actually
equipment and various natural gums and Spherification, a spectacular cooking
hydrocolloids produced by the commercial technique, which enables you to prepare
food processing industry, including the recipes that no one had ever before imagined.
world-renowned chef Ferran Adrià from El It consists of the controlled gelification of a
Bulli Restaurant in Spain. liquid, which when submerged in a bath,
forms spheres. This technique can obtain
Adrià has won the adulation of food spheres of different sizes: caviar, eggs,
critics and cooks by whipping up startling gnocchi, ravioli... You can introduce solid
combinations of texture, temperature and elements into the spheres, which will remain
taste: bite-size cuttlefish ravioli that explode in suspension in the liquid, so that you can
in a burst of coconut and ginger, soft-boiled achieve two or more flavours in a single
quail egg with a crispy caramel crust, a preparation.
polenta of frozen powdered Parmesan cheese,
almond ice cream on a swirl of garlic oil and How about a pretty little pink drink
balsamic vinegar. consisting of Campari, Absolut Mandarin,
pink grapefruit and cranberry juice with a
The Molecular Gastronomy lesson now over side of Campari Caviar and a twist of lime?
we can move on to the point of this story -
Molecular Mixology. There are oodles of things you can do to
lift your cocktails out of the ordinary using
You probably know about foams, which are these spheres. The only limitation is your
sauces that have been turned into froth using imagination. If you want to know more
a whipped cream canister and sometimes about the process involved or seek a little
a little lecithin as a stabilizer. They were inspiration, go to www.texturaselbulli.com
invented at El Bulli, along with similar for demonstrations on using these Texturas.
“airs” made with an immersion blender. But
Raw
Nature
By Dr. Marco “RUCOLA” de Leonardis
In my first article of 2009, I would like to talk to you of a blend Italian Parsley Chives Chervil
of herbs which is a staple in French cuisine, “Les Fines Herbes”.
The ingredients of fines herbes are fresh nutrients that are also important for the and stomach cancer as well as prostate is a tasty addition to herb butters. Chervil Tarragon is called the “King of Herbs” by the French cooks usually mix their mustard with
Parsley, Chives, Chervil and Tarragon. prevention of many diseases: vitamin C and cancer. The highest antioxidant activity is what gives Bernaise sauce its distinctive French, and with good reason. It is the main Tarragon vinegar.
These “fine herbs” are not the pungent and vitamin A (in the form of the pro-vitamin A in chives is observed in the leaves, which taste. Being a spring time herb, Chervil flavoring in many of the sauces that form
resinous herbs that appear in a “Bouquet carotenoid, beta-carotene). are also rich in flavonoids. As chives are has a natural affinity for other spring time the foundation of classic French cuisine, The mix of equal parts of the four herbs
Garni”, which, unlike fines herbes, release usually served in small amounts and never foods: salmon, trout, young asparagus, new being a component of the herbes de Provence, described above gives us the “Fines Herbes”.
their flavour in long cooking. The fresh flavour and crisp texture of parsley as the main dish, negative effects are rarely potatoes, baby green beans and carrots, of the fines herbes and of French bouquet These, unlike most of the other herbs, lose
makes it an ideal accompaniment to most encountered, although digestive problems salads of spring greens. garni. Like Chervil it is a fundamental the potency of their flavour when dried.
Because of their “refined” and delicate foods. With its stronger flavour, it is more may occur following over-consumption. ingredient for the Bernaise sauce. In French The fresh “fines herbes “ blend should be
texture, we can add them to the dishes at frequently used in cooking, particularly French Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) cuisine, tarragon is preferred as a fresh herb minced very fine just before needed, and
the end of the cooking, preserving their since it stands up well to heat. Persillade and Chopped fresh and sprinkled, just before is a perennial herb related to Wormwood. whenever possible. added at the end of the dish’s cooking time,
important health nutrients. gremolada are two well known sauces which serving, they are a great improvement to It is native to a wide area of the Northern as heat tends to decrease its flavor. The Fines
have parsley as one of the main ingredients. salads, in particular to cucumber salad, and Hemisphere from easternmost Europe To be able to have the tarragon flavour Herbes are frequently suggested for subtly-
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) contains two Persillade, a French sauce, is a sauteed on sliced tomatoes or on mashed potatoes across central and eastern Asia to India. throughout the year, it is frequently preserved flavoured cold and warm dishes, e.g., salads,
types of unusual components that provide mixture of finely chopped parsley and garlic. they work both as a garnish and flavouring. in vinegar, which captures tarragon’s essence scrambled eggs, fish and poultry.
unique health benefits. The first type is It is added just before serving to broiled Chives are widely used in stews and soups, Tarragon was used by the ancient Greeks as and creates a tasty condiment that can be
volatile oil components, most notably meats, particularly lamb and beef, as well as especially potato and asparagus soups and a remedy for toothache. Today we know that used in dressings, mayonnaise and as a zesty My recipe for this month is for a
myristicin and the second type is flavonoids, chicken or vegetables. are often added to sour cream as a well as tarragon contains an anesthetic chemical, deglazing alternative to wine. Tarragon mouthwatering omelette that will help you
most notably Luteolin. many dips and spread recipes to give a more Eugenol, which is the major constituent vinegar is the only correct flavouring for start your day with a smile.
Gremolada is a Milanese condiment made complex taste. of anesthetic clove oil, making its use for Sauce Tartare, but must never be put into
Myristicin have been shown to inhibit of sauteed parsley, garlic, lemon and orange temporary pain relief understandable. soups, as the taste is too strong and pungent.
tumor formation in the lungs. The activity zest. This mixture is traditionally spread over Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) is a delicate
of parsley’s volatile oils qualifies it as a “che osso bucco just before serving, although it annual herb related to Parsley spread by the
moprotective” food, and in particular, a enhances any braised meats. Romans through most of Europe, where
food that can help neutralize particular
types of carcinogens (like the benzopyrenes Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) are the
it is now naturalised. Chervil had various
traditional uses. Pregnant women bathe in
Omelette With Gruyere and Fines Herbes
that are part of cigarette smoke and charcoal smallest species of the onion family. an infusion of it; a lotion of it was used as
grill smoke). a skin cleanser; and it was used medicinally INGREDIENTS DIRECTIONS until eggs are just set in center, tilting pan
Containing numerous organisulfide
as a blood purifier. That subtle, tender 3 large eggs 1. Heat an 8-inch, non-stick sautè pan and lifting edge of omelet with spatula to let
compounds such as allyl sulfides and
Luteolin have been shown to function as flavor-part anise, part parsley-that you’ve 1/4 cup organic fresh fine herbs, finely over medium-high heat. In a mixing bowl, uncooked portion flow underneath, about
alkyl sulfoxide, chives have a beneficial
antioxidants that combine with highly been trying to identify in the fish sauce, will chopped combine the eggs, fines herbs, salt and 2 minutes.
effect on the circulatory system, acting
reactive oxygen-containing molecules almost certainly turn out to be Chervil, one 1/3 cup (packed) grated GruyËre cheese pepper. Whisk briskly to incorporate well
upon it by lowering the blood pressure.
(called oxygen radicals) and help prevent of the staples of classic French cooking. 1/2 teaspoon salt all the ingredients. 3. Sprinkle half of omelet with the Gruyere
The organosulfur compounds they contain
oxygen-based damage to cells. 1/4 teaspoon white pepper cheese. Using a spatula, fold other half of
inhibit tumor growth and cell proliferation,
Most frequently it is used to flavor eggs, 2 tablespoons butter 2. Add the butter to the sautè pan and omelet over cheese; loosen the omelette by
and arrest the cell cycle in tumor cells. Allium
In addition to its volatile oils and flavonoids, fish, chicken and light sauces and dressings. quickly pour the eggs into the pan. Cook shaking the pan and slide it out onto plate.
vegetables, including chives, especially have
parsley is an excellent source of two vital a protective effect against both esophageal It also combines well with mild cheeses and
A Trio
at Mozaic
Always stylish and incredibly creative, Chris Salans and his team
at Mozaic have introduced a new tapas menu which draws on the
Chocolate tapas Sorbet trio
main menu and the restaurant’s distinctive style for inspiration.
and Mozaic may well win the award for the most
with chocolate ganache, with roasted squab (centre)
innovative tapas menu this side of Madrid. “ An example of what we will feature on our trio horseradish and beetroot
plates will include a fish trio, a shellfish trio, a white
• New Zealand squab sous vide to 53
Available in trios, each with a theme, the tapas will meat trio, a red meat one, probably a foie gras
degrees
be served in the lounge bar and will provide a taste inspiration, a cheese trio, sorbet and a chocolate
• Then basted in butter, thyme and
of Mozaic in all its stylish ramifications. one,” says the ever passionate Chef.
roasted garlic
The menu will evolve and change according to the
“I wanted the tapas menu to reflect what we do in seasons, the best available produce and will always CHOCOLATE GANACHE
the dining room. It is designed for people who want rely on the classical techniques that are the backbone • Valrhona chocolate 72% 100gm
to sit in the lounge and don’t need a large dinner. of everything produced at Mozaic. • Raspberry vinegar 1tbs
Also for those coming in late to enjoy the music or • Walnut oil 1tbs
a late night snack and for those who haven’t made a “I am very exacting about technique. A good • Olive oil 1tbs
reservation on a busy night,” explains Chris. percentage of my menu is prepared using the sous • Pinch of salt
vide technique. Our kitchens feature the latest HORSERADISH JELLY
The lounge regularly features live music on Friday Rational ovens, which make my life so much easier • Fresh milk 200ml
and Saturday nights and draws a dedicated crowd. as it is no longer necessary to constantly monitor • Milk powder 20gm METHOD
These are often the busiest nights for the restaurant the cooking process. The oven will do that for you.” • Agar Agar 4.5gm For the chocolate ganache melt the For the foam, put all the items in a pan
as well. Chris has used Rational for many years and is a great • Horseradish freshly grated 30gm chocolate over a bain marie. once the and bring to a first boil. Remove from
supporter of the technology. • White vinegar 10ml chocolate is melted incorporate all the other heat, cover and allow to infuse for 20
The tapas will feature scaled down versions inspired • Salt –pinch ingredients. minutes. Using a hand blender emulsify
by Mozaic’s innovative cuisine. “I wanted the tapas From tapas to degustation: the option to graze or HORSERADISH FOAM to get the foam.
to reflect what we do. It comes from the same really indulge, now offers the same promise – the • Milk 200ml For the horseradish jelly bring the milk, milk
kitchen, using the same mise-en-place and will be food will be creative, exciting and wonderful, • Horseradish fresh 30gm powder and agar agar to a boil. Incorporate Assemble according to desired presentation.
inspired by what we are putting on that evening’s wherever you decide to sit. • Lemon Thyme 5gm the horseradish, vinegar and seasoning.
menu,” he continues. • seasoning Refrigerate.
The cuisine of Singapore reflects its ethnic reviving them by giving them a contemporary
diversity. The cuisine known as Peranakan look and feel. A modern presentation, fresh
(meaning descendants and referring to those ingredients, flavourful stocks, no flavour
known as Straits Chinese), is possibly the enhancers and limited use of thickeners,
most famous, and successful, of all fusion results in a Chinese-influenced menu that
food, combining a number of influences is lighter, relies on fresh ingredients and is
including Chinese, Malay, Indian, Thai, full of surprises.
Portugese (Macau), Indonesian and even
Western influences. The restaurant is a beautiful open space;
wine and cocktails figure heavily on the
The cuisines and flavours have played on drinks menu, creating a package that feels
one another for over a century. Chefs of luxurious and sets it apart from many Asian-
Chinese ethnic background are influenced style restaurants.
by Indian culture and might experiment
with condiments and ingredients such as While Fui, his partner Bernard and young
tamarind, turmeric, ghee and five spices, Chef de Cuisine, Alung are very matter
while an Indian chef might serve food of fact when discussing their restaurant,
prepared using plenty of coconut-based the façade slips however when Dewandra,
products. our photographer, mentions the famous
No Signboard Restaurant in Singapore.
The major difference between traditional According to these guys Fui is the king of
Chinese dishes and those prepared in Chili Crab “Although here in Bali the crab
Singapore is that the sauces are generally is no good for this dish, too soft, we use
much lighter and rely on slow cooked lobster, or flipper, very good,” they all rave.
master stocks for their flavour. Chinoiserie’s
veteran chef and partner, Fui, was born in Chinoiserie appears to have successfully
Malaysia and spent twenty years cooking created a cuisine that is a little bit Nyonya, a
in Singapore. Together with Bernard Foo, little bit Chinese, with plenty of Singaporean
they now have four restaurants including street cred and very 2009. In March,
one in East Timor, called Erily Sun. Chinoiserie will launch a live seafood.
Fui has gone back to the roots of Peranakan Chinoiserie is located on The Sunset Road,
cuisine, seeking out forgotten recipes and near Carrefour.