Stylish Peranakan: Take Home

Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 21
At a glance
Powered by AI
The document discusses upcoming culinary events in Indonesia and team building activities.

Salon Culinaire 2009 will feature the Bocuse D'Or Asia selection, the Indonesian Asian Pastry Cup competition, and the first Junior Asian Chef Challenge.

A major focus is fostering new culinary talent. The first Junior Asian Chef Challenge will see young chefs compete against others from neighboring countries.

JAKARTA & BALI CULINARY PROFESSIONAL NEWSLETTER

MARCH - APRIL 2009 | FREE

STYLISH
PERANAKAN
CHINOISERIE

Asian Pastry
Cup Update

MOLECULAR RAW
MIXOLOGY NATURE

DEAN AT KAKUNI
DAVA AT RIN
Take Home
CHEF
presidents’ message

TASTE TASTE
team contents
Dear Members and Friends, Dear Colleagues,

March and April are a highlight for It is an honour for us, the Association
the entire culinary community as of Culinary Professionals Indonesia to
we prepare for Indonesia’s largest work together with PT Pamerindo to
5. President’s Message create the 7th Annual Salon Culinaire
editorial consultant culinary event, Salon Culinaire
2009. The event will feature many
Sarah Dougherty 2009. Training for the many levels
6. Short Order levels of competition including the
of competition is vital to success
contributors B’ocuse D’Or Jakarta selection, the
Kathryn, Kora, Marco Rucola, Katrina 8. Dean at Dava and many of our teams have been
Indonesian Asian Pastry Cup competition and the first Junior
Valkenberg, Es Dee, Kayti planning and practicing for months already. We wish them
Asian Chef Challenge.
11. Asian Pastry Cup all good luck as they head for competition against chefs from
coordinator & marketing 8
all over Indonesia. The culinary competition will be held in Held at the same time is the Food and Hotel Exhibition
Miranti Amandya 12. Take Home Chef, Andreas
conjunction with Food and Hotel Indonesia 2009 in Jakarta. Indonesia. All events will be held at the Jakarta International
Krampl
photographers Expo Kemayoran from April 15th to 18th. As members of
Dewandra, Sarah, Mia, Setiavan Purwanto
14. Technique: Kakuni This competition will also include the Asian Pastry Cup the World Association of Chefs Societies (WACS) it is a great
graphic designers national selection, with the winning team then qualifying to pleasure for us to host a number of qualified international
DeKa 16. Perfume Dinner represent Indonesia in Singapore 2010. WACS judges to the event and to host our sister organization
from Bali (BCP).
distribution 18. Change is coming
Putu Suardika, Gede Sudiartawan, 16 Salon Culinaire 2009 will also feature the 2nd Bocuse D’Or
A major focus for our organizations at this time is fostering new
Arif Junaidi 22. Comings and Goings Asia Selection Jakarta in preparation of national selection
talent and this year’s first Junior Asian Chef Challenge will see our
in Bali 2010. The Bocuse D’Or is the world famous salmon
cover photograph 26. Molecular Mixology young chefs competing against Junior chefs from neighbouring
cooking competition. Last year Indonesia was represented, for
Pork Belly Kakuni by Dewandra Djenlantik Memorable cakes from Ixora countries in a hot cooking competition. As they represent the
the first time, by a team from Bulgari Bali.
future of our industry, this will be a great opportunity for them to
office
28 . Dr. Rocket compete in a wider arena and develop their skills.
BCP Secretariat (attn. Kathryn)
This is also a very challenging time for our Young Chefs, as
Travel Works Communication International
30. Tapas Trio: Mozaic in addition to the first Junior Asian Chef compitetion held We are looking forward to seeing some creative and skilful
Jl. Kesari no. 60a, Sanur 80223, Bali, 26
Indonesia each year at Salon Culinaire, the stakes have been raised by cooking at this event and also welcoming major suppliers to the
32. Thoroughly Modern:
Tel: 62 – 361 – 284095 WACS (World Association of Chefs) who are offering valuable industry who will exhibit their goods. It is a very exciting and
Chinoiserie
Fax: 62 – 361 – 270189 scholarship programs in addition to the existing prizes. Thank stimulating time for our members and guest and we look forward
E-mail: [email protected] 38. Chef’s Day Out you all for your support and great work and good luck to those to welcoming many of you,
Website: www.balichefs.com
who are competing.
Culinary Greetings,
Made Putra Vindex Valentino Tengker,
President ACP,
BCP President,
Committee member of Salon Culinaire 2009.
Executive Chef Laguna Resort and Spa.

pre press & printing by


PT. Dian Rakyat
Cover photo of Pork Belly “Kakuni”
Taste Magazine
TASTE Newsletter can be downloaded at By Richard Millar at Rin restaurant
This edition of Taste comes at an exciting time for Indonesia’s As this year’s expo promises to be the biggest and the best yet, Taste will
www.balichefs.com of Conrad
Hospitality industry as many of our members and colleagues are be travelling to Jakarta in April to bring back all the news and catch up
Photo by Dewandra
preparing for the Food and Hotel Expo in Jakarta this April. With on the latest equipment, food producers and innovations on exhibit.
competition fever inspiring many of our local chefs to sharpen their And of course, catch up with the winners in all the levels of
skills, hoping to impress, there is a sense of anticipation and team work competition.
as more experienced chefs mentor the younger ones.

4 TASTE | March - April 2009 March - April 2009 | TASTE 5


short orders short orders

Easter orders
According to St Regis’ Pastry Chef, Vincent Stopin, working with
Food and Hotel
chocolate in France is as revered as the art of wine-making. The deli
at St Regis is a dream come true for lovers of fine chocolate as Vincent
Indonesia 2009
creates a selection of hand made treasures for every occasion. To delight
In what promises to be the biggest Food and Hotel Indonesia Expo to date, the
your loved ones this Easter, Vincent will be creating a selection of Easter
10th annual event brings together a total of 767 companies from 34 countries
treats from the very best Valhrona chocolate. Whether it be bunnies and
showcasing a range of products and services for the hospitality industry.
eggs or a beautifully presented box of truffles, these chocolates come in
almost every flavour and shape you can imagine. To order ahead phone
Suppliers, manufacturers and producers are optimistic that despite the
St Regis on (0361) 8478111, and ask for the deli.
economic downturn the food and beverage industry will remain strong says
one of the organisers.

The event, organised by PT Pamerindo Buana Abadi, will be held at the Jakarta
International Expo Kemayoran from April 13th to the 18th.

Meet the Victorians


Austrade has announced a group of Victorian producers will be
hosting food and wine tastings in both Bali and Jakarta in the first
week of April. Some of the Australian state’s finest producers of meat, Are You On The List?
seafood, fruit and dairy products will be inviting professionals to
sample the best of the best of Victoria and meet with the producers Becoming an established event, now in its eighth year, The S. Pellegrino World’s 50th
themselves. In conjunction with Lotus the venues will be announced Best Restaurants Award 2009 will be announced in London on April 20. The awards
in March and offer a great opportunity to forge relationships with are decided based on over 4,000 votes by more than 800 restaurant experts – all well
the producers. Undoubtedly Victorian wine will get a fair sampling travelled commentators, chefs and restaurateurs. Also announced on the night are the
as well. Dates to be announced. award for a Lifetime Achievement – which last year went to legendary Italian chef,
Gualtiero Marchesi, and other prestigious awards for the highest ranking restaurants in
Tea Please Europe, Asia, America. Australia, Middle East and Africa.
Tea is still the world’s favourite beverage. makers TWG, established in Singapore in traditional flavours but also beautiful blends
Early tea tasters, when visiting illustrious 1837, package their tea bags in hand made like Grand Wedding. Green tea, black tea
tea gardens, used small samples of cotton to cotton bags, allowing the flavour to slowly and red teas are available in single origin as

Salon Culinaire 2009


Last year’s winner in Butter from
carry their tea samples, later infusing them develop as it brews. With a collection of teas well as blends which include fruits, flowers Nusa Dua Beach Hotel
to select the best harvests. In a nod to these from around the world, encompassing both and spices. Available from PT Bahana Genta
traditions of early tea traders, venerable tea Asian and European tastes, TWG comes in Viktory, (0361) 411792-3.

Held in conjunction with the Food and Hotel Exhibition, this year’s Salon
Culinaire event will feature a number of inaugural competitions as well as
showcasing the skill and creativity of Indonesia’s culinary professionals in many
existing competition events.

Ice carving, fruit, butter and vegetable carving, sushi making, practical
cooking (hot and cold) and cake decoration are among the competitions held.
International judges are on hand to select the best from a large number of
competitors as well as judging the major competitions; The First Junior Asian
Chef Competition and the first Indonesian Barista competition will feature as
will The Asian pastry Cup (Indonesia) and the Bocuse D’Or salmon competition
(Jakarta heat). This is an exciting event on many levels and is the largest show
of this type in Indonesia. Organised by PT Pamerindo Buana Abadi, the event
brings together the very best of the culinary industry.

6 TASTE | March - April 2009 March - April 2009 | TASTE 7


Dean at Dava
Mud crab, salmon roe,
coconut, passionfruit,
avocado (serves 4)
The fate of Dean Keddell at Ritz Carlton’s signature restaurant Dava is still uncertain but
the BCP lunch he hosted was the perfect opportunity to show off his talent in the kitchen and Ingredient
240gm Mud crab meat
bid a fitting farewell to the brand they have helped to establish in Bali. 1 Red chilli, julienne
10gm Micro sprouts
A beautifully designed menu was difficult to diverse and modern lunch menu. We would The dessert featured is one that won the Ritz 10gm Coriander sprigs
fault. The reception showcased bartending have featured his wagyu recipe as well, it Carlton team their place in the regional finals 4tsp Salmon roe
4tsp Soy pearls (see sub recipe)
skills as well, and Dean was able to incorporate was so good, but for now, he is keeping it of The Asian Pastry Cup last year representing Coconut bubbles
the needs of sponsors Anchor Cream and to himself. Indonesia. A nice touch, especially as this Passionfruit seeds Passion
Boiron fruit puree products skilfully. team is now split up professionally but will fruit agar agar
This talented chef is the second to lead still stand together in the competition this Avocado puree
The setting at Dava is spectacular and one Dava and he has established himself as year. Coriander salt
Cucumber sorbet
wonders what the new management will creative, capable with a style of his own.
transform it into? The BCP members and guests Characteristically these plates featured include As this was a farewell lunch for Executive Preparation
however, were content to sit back and enjoy the a combination of flavours and preparations. Chef, Andreas Krampl, and the last time 1. Arrange all ingredients nicely on the
talented and edgy young chef’s creations. The simplest of dishes like the crisped pork many of the guests will visit Ritz Carlton plate, serve immediately
belly and the melt-in-your-mouth wagyu before the change over at the end of March,
Passion fruit agar agar
Here we feature the appetizer and dessert, were stand-outs as were, equally, the more it was a fitting tribute to the standard of Ingredient
the start and finish of a wonderfully creative, intricate dishes. excellence achieved at this resort. 200ml Passion fruit juice
To taste Sugar
2gm Agar agar
6 Lime leaf, torn
6 Lemongrass sticks, bruised
10gm Ginger Preparation
S&P 1. Mix all ingredients together, blen with a Preparation
stick blender. 1. Boil Bijik till translucent, refresh
Preparation 2. Bring soy and mirin to the boil, pour
1. Place juice, lime leaf and ginger in a pot, Passion fruit seeds over bijik and cool over ice, stirring
Crisp-skinned pork belly Dean and Andreas Darren, Kora, and Made bring to the boil, remove from heat and Ingredient frequently
allow to seep for 30mins. Strain. 1tsp Passion fruit seeds 3. Leave for 2 days before using
Henny, Josef, and Darren Ray (Samaya) and John (Padma) Aroma’s Pak Adrianto 2. Bring juice to the boil with agar agar,
then pour in to a tray to set. Preparation Rye bread croutons
1. Place seeds from fruit on to silicon Ingredient
Avocado puree paper and dry slowly over 2 days. Every 8 slices Rye bread (sliced super thin)
Ingredient few hour stir seeds so they do not stick 10ml Sesame oil
1 Avocado flesh together. S&P
10ml Grape seed oil
5gm Glucose Coriander salt Preparation
20ml Lime juice Ingredient 1. Brush a tray with the oil, place bread on
Salt 10gm Kosher salt tray and then brush with oil again
10gm Coriander seeds 2. Season and leave to dry slowly
Preparation:
1. Add all ingredients to a blender and blitz Preparation Pickled cucumber sorbet
on high, pass and put in squeeze bottle. Roast seeds for 5mins or until fragrant Ingrendient
Grind in a spice grinder & pass through a 2 cups Pickled cucumbers
Coconut bubbles sieve. Mix with salt 10ml Sugar syrup (to taste)
Ingredient S&P
200ml Young coconut juice Soy pearls
To taste Lime juice Ingrendient Preparation
1gm Lecite 10gm Bijik 1. Juice the cucumbers in a vegetable juicer
S&P 100ml Soy add sugar to taste and freeze in an ice
100ml Mirin cream machine.
Leony Wagyu and seafood Attila and Juergen

March - April 2009 | TASTE 9


Asian Pastry Cup 2009 by Sukanda Djaya. The criteria are strict and
exact, and many competitors fail in the final

Competition
moments. In particular in the case of the
ornate sugar displays, created using isomalt,
which is better suited to the tropics, as they are
prone to break or collapse.

Buddies
The teams consist of a local pastry chef and
an assistant. Having known each other and
worked together for over ten years, the two
team mates have a healthy respect for each
other and have already identified the tasks each
The World Pastry Cup held in Lyon is likened to the world cup of will take on.

the pastry world. Competitors have been known to head for France
“Wayan first came to work with me at Ritz
months in advance and devote themselves completely to study and Carlton, Bali, as a trainee,” explains Made who
training in the Mecca of patisserie. is still employed at Ritz Carlton, soon to be
re-launched as Ayana.

Having made assistant he then travelled to


Dubai where he spent two years before heading
back to Bali and eventually gaining another
position in pastry at Ritz.

Coconut lumpia, lemon grass yoghurt sorbet, Vincent is now his boss and he has risen to
the position of sous pastry chef at St Regis,
mango, crispy black rice however the two have decided to remain a
Lemon grass yoghurt sorbet Black rice bubbles Glazed mango team and compete together. As Wayan’s boss,
Ingredient Ingredient Ingredient Vincent is one of very few ex-pat pastry chefs
5gm Stabiliser 100gm Black rice cooking liquid Mango, cut in to cubes 2cm x 2 cm working here.
150gm Sugar 75gm Icing sugar Sugar
100gm Liquid glucose 80gm Sour cream
“The competition is very intense. Everything
400gm Lemon grass 2gm Lecite Preparation
50ml Lemon, juiced 1. Dust mango with sugar and glaze with must be completed in front of the judges in
Last year’s Indonesian finalists in The Asian judges will agree, it sometimes come down eight hours. Your hygiene, the cleanliness of
200gm Yoghurt Preparation a blow tourch
900ml Water 1. Use the liquid from boiling black rice, Pastry Cup, Wayan Laspina, now at St Regis, to personal taste,” says Stefan who has been a your workstation, team work, as well as the
mix with sour cream, icing sugar and Coconut Mousse and I Made Sutisna of Ritz Carlton, have judge before. Bali will enter two teams in this results, are all considered by the judges.”
Preparation lecite Ingredient three years experience competing, increasingly year’s competition, while Jakarta will enter
1. Bring to the boil lemongrass, lemon 2. Froth with hand blender before using 250gms Coconut cream getting closer to France. Last year they came three. The finals, held in Jakarta, as part of the
juice, sugar and glucose 50ml Thickened cream, Top points are given for taste however, which
2. Allow to cool to 450C and add stabiliser, Mango jelly semi whipped fourth in the Singapore regional competition. Salon Culinaire this April will decide who goes remains a challenge for local chefs who have
strain and completly cool Ingredient 60gms Egg white This year however France has come to them in to the next level in Singapore in 2010. not grown up with pastry as part of their
3. Add yoghurt and churn in ice cream 25ml Water 10gm Gelatine leaves, soaked the form of their mentor, St Regis pastry chef culinary experience. With countries like Japan
machine 25gm Sugar 60gm Sugar Vincent Stopin. “The competition is quite intense,” explains entering as many as ten teams, and many other
1gm Agar agar
Stefan, “there are a number of elements. A teams having the added benefit of healthy
Crispy black rice 50gm Mango puree Preparation
Ingredient 1pc Leaf gelatine, soaked 1. Place egg whites in a blender. Heat sugar Arriving at St Regis with a Styrofoam cut out chocolate cake must be created, as Valhrona is sponsorship, allowing them time to travel and
100gm Black rice to soft ball and pour over the egg whites of their proposed sugar sculpture, Vincent and one of the sponsors. They must also create a study and focus completely on their entries,
100ml Icing sugar Preparation beating on high speed. team leader Stefan Mueller of Nikko Resort, plated dessert made using Ravifruit, the other this is a serious level of competition.
1000mls Vegetable oil 1. Mix agar agar, sugar and water, bring to 2. Add gelatine and add in coconut in began to dissect the elements of their entry. sponsor, a producer of fruit purees, a chocolate
the boil stages.
The four levels of entry must be in line with showpiece and a sugar sculpture.” One in which Indonesia is still finding its legs,
Preparation: 2. Add mango, heat then add gelatine 3. Fill plastic moulds (cylinder shape) and
1. Boil rice till soft, strain and allow to 3. Pour in to flat tray set in refridgerator current trends, show creativity and skill and a but each year with more experience and greater
steam dry 4. When set, cut in to squares and roll 4. When set unmould and wrap in mango wow factor. As the Ravifruit product is not available in knowledge, the natural creativity of our chefs
2. Deep fry rice until crispy. cool and dust around coconut mouse jelly Indonesia, Boiron is the proposed alternative, a is gaining more attention.
with icing sugar “ It can be quite subjective as well. Not all the French puree product distributed in Indonesia

10 TASTE | March - April 2009 March - April 2009 | TASTE 11


Sarah, a UK visitor Ron with Katrina

Jackie Echo Beach


& Louise Villa Coco

Roasted O.P. Wagyu Rib


with root vegetables and natural gravy

Take Home Chef


Dinner with Andreas
Taking a five star Executive Chef home to prepare a private dinner
for a small number of friends is one of life’s great indulgences.

When six of Bali’s top chefs donated their planning involved matching available wines pleasantly surprised to find a kitchen that
time in an auction to raise funds for the to the best ingredients on offer at Lotus and surpassed his own and had almost every
BCP’s Young Chef ’s Scholarship Fund at Gourmet Garage, the agreed supplier for appliance and condiment he required for
last year’s Gala Dinner, the bidding was the event. the execution.
enthusiastic and fierce.
The day began with a meeting at Lotus Watching an experienced chef at work is like
Writer and Wine consultant, Katrina where a discussion with Bill Bush provided watching an artist at create. Firstly the mise-
Valkenberg was elated when she successfully an outline of what he recommended from en-place is prepared, the menu is written,
bid for the services of Ritz Carlton’s among his current stock. Katrina and the wine is chilled, the table is laid and by
Executive Chef, Andreas Krampl, and Andreas slowly picked through the freshest the time the guests arrive at 7.30, it is clear
the scene was set for an outstanding and and best quality ingredients to create a that the night will be a memorable one. The
intimate event. menu fit for the feast. guests were also happy knowing that the
dinner served to help foster young talent in
As Andreas was planning to leave for Dubai Bill was also able to confirm the list of this country.
in January, the timing for the dinner was current wines and the careful matching of
crucial and the date was set just days prior dishes and accompanying wines began to As we have come to expect, Andreas created
to his departure. shape the menu. a menu for this evening that showed skill,
flair and a mastering of technique. The
Katrina’s experience as a wine consultant, The shopping complete, the small group wine was a near perfect match, with only
and sommelier to the Chaine des Rotisseurs, then made their way to Katrina’s riverside one showing signs of stress…and the rest is
Andreas finishes his Foie Gras Brullee
added another layer to the dinner as the home near to Canggu where the chef was culinary history.

12 TASTE | March - April 2009 March - April 2009 | TASTE 13


technique
Step 2: Stock is added Step 1: Pork belly in Rice porridge

meibutsu (famous regional product) of the


area is a type of Japanese cuisine that isn’t
often seen outside of Japan, one that Richard
has translated to a fine dining concept.

“There are many excellent Japanese


Restaurants in Bali and when we were
developing the concept for Rin at Conrad,
I wanted to design a menu that was able
to draw on my knowledge of western and
Japanese cuisine but offer something fresh
and creative. So I started with dishes that I
love to eat and blended ingredients that I felt
would give it a modern and personal touch. I
just needed to make sure that the traditional
structure and flavour of the dish remained
and then carefully put it all together in a
modern way,” he explains. This is where
fusion cuisine, in the wrong hands can go this part of Japan for hundreds of years. It is for another 3 hours to absorb the flavour
wrong, as flavours get lost and it can become essentially a way of braising pork and while into the meat.

Kakuni
confusing to the palate. Richard’s recipe is based on the original
it has been given his personal stamp with For Richard the greatest challenge was
The menu at Rin is based on Kaiseki, a the use of rice porridge to retain the meat’s to create a Japanese Restaurant that was
multi course meal that in Japan will be moisture while cooking. modern but still traditional in its execution
adorned with items from nature that reflect and delivery, so as to offer a comfortable,
the seasons. Richard enlisted the help of Richard has selected the belly from Kurobuta quality dining experience for The Conrad’s
Richard Millar the Tokyo Conrad Chef from Kazahana pigs to use in his kakuni, it is the Japanese many Japanese, Asian and western guests.
Kakuni is a Japanese braised pork dish, which literally when constructing the recipes for Rin and word for black pig which comes from the
means “square simmered”. together they carefully achieved authentic Berkshire breed of pork and is considered “So far I am very happy with what I have
Understanding a technique, knowing its origins and the authentic flavours flavours ; 90% of the ingredients used are to be the wagyu of pigs. The method for achieved at Rin, as this was my first attempt
lends a chef to adaptation. The dish must still retain its authenticity to be sourced from Japan to ensure the integrity preparing kakuni is to first fry the belly in to successfully create such a challenging new
truly successful but with knowledge and experience a centuries-old traditional of each dish. a pan, then blanche it in water to remove concept in such detail. Now I am excited
dish can be transposed in a modern kitchen. the excess fat and then to immerse in a about evolving our menu and working on a
A style of cooking that won us over at a rice porridge and steam together for eight series of sake dinners and other promotional
When Richard Millar went to Japan to work for Sheraton Grande Ocean recent BCP lunch is very typical of the hours. The belly is then taken out of the ideas to build the brand and develop Rin’s
Resort at Seagaia in Miyazaki, the Southeastern part of Kyushu. He fell in food of Kyushu. Kakuni, is thought to be porridge and slowly simmered in a stock of reputation for quality dining.”
love; with the country, the culture, the people, and with its cuisine. The originally Chinese but has been prepared in dashi, konbu, sake, shoyu, ginger and mirin

March - April 2009 | TASTE 15


Perfume Dinner

AROMA or
PERFUME?
Pacific Oyster
Bisque

INGREDIENTS
What do the chef and the perfume maker have in
6 pieces Pacific oysters
common? They both work with aromatics, albeit 0.25 liter Rich chicken stock
more often than not, different ones. 0.25 liter Fresh cream
10 grams Fresh parsley
20 grams Fresh spinach leaves
10 grams Micro greens
50 grams Cold butter
1 piece Lime (for juice)
Where the chef relies on his herbs for added on the richness of the preparation. For a
1 gram Pepper
flavour, the perfumer looks to flowers as concentrated sauce that is used sparingly
1 gram Sea salt
well as plants for his inspiration. you may use 30 drops whereas for the soup
10 grams Salmon roe (optional)
we have featured here, just three drops were
1 drop Jasmine essential oil
In a most unusual union, St Regis recently enough to have an impact.
hosted a Master Perfumer, Nicholas de Barry PREPARATION
from France as part of their Aficionado “This soup, which is a recipe I have used
Rinse and shuck the oysters, keep in their
program. Together with Executive Chef, for years, it has to be finished just before
juice in a bowl and set aside.
Oscar Perez, the two determined to finish the serving, and was to my taste the most
perfume workshop with a tasting event and a successful pairing in the menu. The jasmine
Bring the chicken stock and cream in a soup
gala dinner combining the skills of each. was not a predictable addition but it really
pot to a boil. Place in a blender and start
worked well,” continues Oscar.
to blend at high speed. Add carefully the
“It really took us months to get this together, parsley and spinach leaves and continue to
it was a lot of trial and error and often we The dinner was an intimate affair for just
blend until you reach a smooth texture and
were both surprised by what we discovered,” thirty guests and the response from diners
a bright leafy green color. Add 4 fresh oysters
explains Oscar. was enthusiastic.
and their juice and continue to blend. Strain
the bisque through a fine strainer and bring
“The trick I found was to start with a fairly “Many of the raw ingredients for the essential
the soup back gently to simmering point.
neutral base and to go very slowly with the oils are ones the chef also uses; thyme,
Adjust the soup with 1 drop of Jasmine
essential oils as though they may have a lemongrass, vanilla. Nevertheless I learned
essential oil, lime juice and season with salt
strong aroma, the taste may be very mild, a lot about aromatics and food through
and pepper
too much will make it bitter. It is really a this exercise, it really was a learning curve. I
matter of removing the usual aromatics and believe it was for both of us,” he says.
In a soup plate/bowl place one (1) oyster in
then finding flavours that replace them but the center and gently pour the cream soup
somehow work in harmony with the dish,” “When all the flavours and smells start to
and garnish with micro greens and fresh
he explains. get overwhelming, Nicholas advised me to
salmon roe (optional). The raw oyster will
stop for a cigarette. Surprising advice, but
be perfectly poached in the bisque and will
They also found that the volume depends it worked.”
give a sensational experience.

16 TASTE | March - April 2009


advertorial

Replacements?
Substitutions?
Change?
Whether
By Susan

Sounds more like something you do to cars


than something in the kitchen. But, from one guest or
a thousand:
the looks of what our good government is
doing at the moment, the 3 concepts above
will play a major part in how well we eat
in the coming months. Always optimistic,
we hope that those who are working
desperately hard to convince the relevant It’s not a problem with
powers that Bali should have some status with cold water to get rid of the bitter taste. protein and really versatile. With Indian
as an ‘exception’ considering the amount Then cook with water AND sugar. Cool spices they become a local dhal. In soup the RATIONAL
Bali contributes to the national coffers – are and cut into small pieces and it’s not bad. they are a pea soup copy and there are
successful. Bad sentence – good hope. Better than not having any for sure. even some easy to make ‘cakes’ from them
in combination with coconut and dark
SelfCooking Center®
But in the meantime, look back for a change Nuts for stir fry beans? When you can’t Javanese sugar. Soy beans too are easy to
instead of forward? find sliced almonds, try KEMIRI. Most use in soups and dhal type dishes. Just soak
Indonesian cooks use Kemiri for a thickening overnight and cook til tender before adding
So, peeled tomatoes are not as available as agent, but in fact, you can substitute them whatever veggies and spices you choose. Every day in hotels, catering operations and The SelfCooking Center® easily meets also want free software upgrades for your
they used to be? What local market doesn’t in a variety of ways. Toast and slice for a stir Use in Indian dishes when you can’t get corporate hospitality, production is often every challenge: SelfCooking Center® and application hints
have tons? Just because you can’t get the can fry; chop to put in cakes or cookies where other types of beans. dominated by stress and hectic schedules. À la In hectic periods it is good to be able to rely from over 30 years of cooking experience?
Carte guests have special requests and often, on a technology which can easily manage Register now under www.club-rational.com
doesn’t mean you can’t have the goods. Cut the taste is not an essential factor. Use in a
at the same time, large events with several the demands. No matter what type of food, and enjoy even more benefits as a member.
tomatoes into small pieces and oven roast pesto where the basil can make up for the Want an easy cheese spread ? Buy a large
hundred guests have to be catered. It is often the quantity or size, with the RATIONAL
with a sprinkle of oil and whatever spice/ lack of taste. Local cashews also work for quantity of plain yoghurt ( or make your easy to lose track, and thus, the quality of the SelfCooking Center® everything turns out
herb you like. Or simmer them long with this. Your oven tomatoes cooked longer own), drain though a piece of fine cotton dishes and the service can suffer. perfectly. No matter what, no matter what Contact:
lots of seasoning for pasta. than usual will work nicely for red pesto. or a well washed (!!) nylon stocking for a size and no matter how much. Everything RATIONAL International AG
couple of hours, add seasoning, chopped At such peak times the capacity of large is perfect, just as it is intended. Plate after Millie Chan
and commercial kitchens is often stretched plate! Of course this also applies to side Sales Director International partner Business
Dry spices hard to find? Check out the Topping for ice cream or pudding? Use goodies and spread. This is one from the
to the limit. The demands on staff and dishes, desserts and bakery products. Indonesian Mobile: + 62 815 5892 5618
organic market every Friday near Waroeng local tamarillos and just slice in two. Boil in really old days of 76 and the hardship post kitchen equipment reach their peak. With Thanks to the intelligent cooking processes, Philippines Mobile: + 63 927 3683 348
Made for a variety of fresh spices to spice a rather small amount of water, stirring all cookbook. the RATIONAL SelfCooking Center® the settings, which the chef selects, are
up your tomato sauce. the time. Eventually, the skins come off and even the challenge of banqueting and à converted perfectly. PT Gastro Gizi Sarana
with cooking chopsticks you remove them. As we all get more creative, others will as la carte operation in parallel can be easily Commercial Kitchen, Catering, Laundry,
well, and we are already seeing bakers and mastered. The à la carte guests are served And thanks to the use of the SelfCooking Refrigeration
And to dry for later use as well. Make a Remove all skins, make sure that the pulp
the dishes they desire, quickly, hot and with Center® kitchen staff gain extra time for the and Stainless Steel Fabrication.
spice garden in your yard….somewhat is not still in big bits and then add sugar to salsa makers coming out of the woodwork
excellent quality. The dishes for the large essentials. This can be productively used e.g.
shady with a little sun should do nicely. taste. You could also add vanilla or cloves to take advantage of our temporary lack. event are prepared in peace and quiet and for creative serving, perfect garnishing, or Bali Office and Showroom :
– but try a little first. Cool and use over That’s fine - we don’t want to live in a are already chilled. They are then given the simply to have more time for their guests. Sunset Road (Next to Carrefour Kuta)
Citrus Peel? If you can get lemons, and this vanilla ice cream, chilled fruit or pudding. vacuum and welcoming change is WAY Finishing® treatment in the SelfCooking Denpasar – Bali
is a big IF sometimes, peel and slice. Remove Out of lentils? Try kacang hijau. Full of healthier than resisting it. Center®. Dishes are prepared to perfection You can obtain more information about the P : (0361) 8477 330
with Finishing® making every event an RATIONAL SelfCooking Center® under F : (0361) 8477 234
white bits and boil 3 separate times starting vitamins and minerals, they are high in
experience. www.rational-international.com. Do you E : [email protected]

18 TASTE | March - April 2009


Coming & Going design update

Island
Inspirations
The newest creations from Hospitality Essentials
include stunning inlays of shell and coconut. This
FAREWELL TO JOSEF friendship and wish you all continued success. Agung from Chandi Restaurant) and spent combination of natural materials creates a striking,
For many in Bali, saying farewell to Josef Zopf will Auf Wiedesehen.” a semester studying wine in the Napa Valley modern design, which is suitable for corporate or
be emotional. Having spent ten years running the Back at you Josef, you will be missed. during his early training. resort properties. As with all Hospitality Essentials
kitchens of Aerowisata Catering, he is a familiar
accessories, all of the designs can be modified to
face, an active member of BCP’s committee and a NEW MEMBERS He has also worked for Sheraton in Phuket.
good friend to many. His wife Jo, often by his side, Philip Mimbimi As Chef de Cuisine at Hu’u he has introduced
suit the needs of the hospitality industry, ensuring
will also be sorely missed. Nutmegs new Chef de Cuisine, Philip a modern Asian and Global menu with great they will complement your specific interior design
Mimbimi might have a tricky name but success. Nutmegs is located at Hu’u Bar Bali concept perfectly.
Josef says, “I have had a wonderful ten years in the experience he brings to this position in Jl Petitenget.

Jenggala Mug
Bali. I have really enjoyed working with both the is nonetheless impressive, and indeed he
local and the expat chefs who have contributed is already known to quite a few in the BCP Alexander Elrich.
so much to the excellent hospitality industry we community having worked at Ritz Carlton Our newest member of BCP, Alexander Elrich
now have here. I have also really enjoyed the team Jakarta and Four Seasons Singapore among has ten years F&B experience in Indonesia,
spirit and mateship that has developed in Bali’s
Culinary Community and especially in BCP. For
me, it has been a tremendous privilege to have
other international postings.

Born in Cameroon, he immigrated to America


including Sheraton Lampung and Keraton,
Jimbaran. He is currently Executive Chef at
Aston Kuta Hotel and Residence. Welcome.
Collection
been part of the growth and success of the BCP. at a young age. He attended the Culinary
I would like to thank everyone for their valued Institute in New York (another graduate is

In celebration of 33 years of Jenggala history, three Jenggala


designers created their own interpretation of the Jenggala
Mug. Each designer set off in a different direction to find
shapes and form that capture the feel of Jenggala. Their
only cohesive thread was incorporating the Jenggala logo, a
tribute to the Balinese goddess of prosperity, Dewi Sri.

[email protected]
steaks and bechamels, but to introduce

Fred at
cooking methods, to bring new dimensions
create a program of wine dinners aimed at
to local ingredients and increase the variety
the luxury market.
offered while maintaining the use of local

the Tugu Lombok


and healthy produce.

Driving
Robert has done almost every job there is in
F&B from trainee in the kitchen to working
The key to good training, according to Fred,

on training
the floor and he has a great appreciation of

F&B
is not to show someone how to do something
the value of a good F&B team. His recent
and have them copy or follow your
wine dinner promotions are aimed at
instructions. It is to impart the knowledge
adding value to his guest’s experience as well
of how and why things work as they do, to
as supporting his fine dining program. Taste Magazine recently had the pleasure of catching up with chef Fred
explain the alchemical reactions, the effects
who has returned to Bali, after leaving Gado Gado for a stint in Cairo. of steaming that produces a different result
“Sometimes you have to spend money to
to frying. This makes it more interesting
make money. Bulgari is a luxury brand, Currently juggling a couple of projects since
to learn, to find out the why and how not
long associated with jewels. People have a returning, one of which will be Sardine,
just what to do. This is something that Fred
perception of Bulgari that is long standing a new concept in seafood dining on the
himself learned, after years of being shown
and the resort is looked upon as another jewel border of Pettitenget and Banjar Semer,
what to do he was faced with the challenge
in the brand. Our guests have an expectation Fred is currently in residence at the Hotel
of trying to understand why.
of the kind of experience they will have here Tugu, Sire Beach, Lombok where he is
and we need to support that.” undertaking the training of the chefs to
He feels that you not only do better when
deliver an expanded menu to guests.
you understand you can actually use that
Bulgari’s wine dinners often feature some of
knowledge to make informed decisions in
the world’s most expensive, quality wines. Well known for their authentic Indonesian
creating other recipes and applying that
“Influential wine makers come to meet our cuisine the Tugu Sire beach is looking to
knowledge to other aspects of cooking that
guests, often in very intimate events. We expand its menu. In recognition that the
lead to an ownership of creativity rather
can draw on our own cellars at a time like external dining choices in the area are
than a simple ability to follow blindly.
this when supplies are challenging and we limited, and with guests opting to stay for
also have wine connoisseurs here in Bali longer periods, it was felt that an increase
This naturally leads to the creation of more
Two different general managers, two very different who can come to discuss styles and vintages in alternatives would provide a stimulating
innovative local chefs, and is something we
at the events.”
properties, yet both have chosen to add value for their and satisfying experience for not just the
can all look forward to….
guests but for the staff who cook at the
guests through food and beverage promotions. This year Robert Lagerway promises to Tugu, Sire Beach. Wasabi-crusted snapper
redefine the concept of his wine dinners,
Robert Kelso is the long serving General each month over the previous year when the although he is reluctant to spell out how. Fred has been delighted by the enthusiastic
Manager at Dynasty Resort in Tuban. The promotion did not run. “ There are two very different approaches response to his innovations and while
resort has been undergoing a major facelift to wine dinners,” he explains, “one camp lamenting that Indonesian cuisine is not as
and is adding a beach club, a new live “We wanted to raise funds for people who believes that the food should play second well known or appreciated as it deserves to
Asian cooking restaurant, has established don’t benefit from tourism, and our guests fiddle to the wine in these events, the be in the rest of the world he has nothing
a street-front Indian restaurant run by have responded really well. Many of our other believes, as I do, that the food can be but praise for his ten strong team of male
Queen’s Tandoor group and continues to repeat guests are aware of the work we do in challenging and by doing that, can create a and female chefs.
run promotions through the very successful those small communities and they really want more exciting event.”
Golden Lotus Chinese Restaurant. to help. They feel good about it and it is good They are already versed in culinary terms
for our business and the perception people While operating in two different markets, and have responded to his ideas with
For over ten years, on and off, the Dynasty have about us,” explains Robert Kelso. both Robert Kelso and Robert Lagerway enthusiasm. He says he has learnt as much
has been running a promotion that benefits believe that supporting their chefs and as he has taught by being able to work with
the East Bali Poverty project, Eat Out For At the tip of the luxury iceberg, at Bulgari creating a team that works together to people knowledgeable about local produce
A Child. Running over three months, Resort, Robert Lagerway is a GM who is meet their market demands, is key to the that he can then incorporate into a broader
they have raised in total over Rp2 billion also about changing perception. In his case success of their resorts. Whether raising based cuisine.
by giving 5% of their food and beverage he wants to alter the perception his guests revenue or raising guest expectations is the
revenue to the charity. They promote to and potential clients have about the culinary agenda, these two resorts have proved that The need is not so much to teach ‘western
their guests and found last year that their scene in Bali. He is using his extensive wine F&B plays a key role in successful resort cooking’ which Fred says most Indonesian
revenue was raised by an average of 26% cellar and knowledge of the industry to management. chefs understand as pastas with sauces or

24 TASTE | March - April 2009 March - April 2009 | TASTE 25


All Sort
of Bubbles
by Kathrina

Molecular gastronomy is a scientific approach to cooking.


By studying the physical and chemical processes behind the
transformation of ingredients whilst being cooked, chefs can
determine such things as why a soufflé rises.

The term started to be used to in the caviar? We are not talking Beluga or Sevruga
late1990s to describe a new style of cooking here but tiny spheres made to accompany
in which some chefs began to explore new cocktails.
possibilities in the kitchen by embracing
science, research, technological advances in Caviar in the cocktail world is actually
equipment and various natural gums and Spherification, a spectacular cooking
hydrocolloids produced by the commercial technique, which enables you to prepare
food processing industry, including the recipes that no one had ever before imagined.
world-renowned chef Ferran Adrià from El It consists of the controlled gelification of a
Bulli Restaurant in Spain. liquid, which when submerged in a bath,
forms spheres. This technique can obtain
Adrià has won the adulation of food spheres of different sizes: caviar, eggs,
critics and cooks by whipping up startling gnocchi, ravioli... You can introduce solid
combinations of texture, temperature and elements into the spheres, which will remain
taste: bite-size cuttlefish ravioli that explode in suspension in the liquid, so that you can
in a burst of coconut and ginger, soft-boiled achieve two or more flavours in a single
quail egg with a crispy caramel crust, a preparation.
polenta of frozen powdered Parmesan cheese,
almond ice cream on a swirl of garlic oil and How about a pretty little pink drink
balsamic vinegar. consisting of Campari, Absolut Mandarin,
pink grapefruit and cranberry juice with a
The Molecular Gastronomy lesson now over side of Campari Caviar and a twist of lime?
we can move on to the point of this story -
Molecular Mixology. There are oodles of things you can do to
lift your cocktails out of the ordinary using
You probably know about foams, which are these spheres. The only limitation is your
sauces that have been turned into froth using imagination. If you want to know more
a whipped cream canister and sometimes about the process involved or seek a little
a little lecithin as a stabilizer. They were inspiration, go to www.texturaselbulli.com
invented at El Bulli, along with similar for demonstrations on using these Texturas.
“airs” made with an immersion blender. But

Bloody Mary at Dava


News from Doctor Rocket’s Organic Farm

Raw
Nature
By Dr. Marco “RUCOLA” de Leonardis

In my first article of 2009, I would like to talk to you of a blend Italian Parsley Chives Chervil
of herbs which is a staple in French cuisine, “Les Fines Herbes”.
The ingredients of fines herbes are fresh nutrients that are also important for the and stomach cancer as well as prostate is a tasty addition to herb butters. Chervil Tarragon is called the “King of Herbs” by the French cooks usually mix their mustard with
Parsley, Chives, Chervil and Tarragon. prevention of many diseases: vitamin C and cancer. The highest antioxidant activity is what gives Bernaise sauce its distinctive French, and with good reason. It is the main Tarragon vinegar.
These “fine herbs” are not the pungent and vitamin A (in the form of the pro-vitamin A in chives is observed in the leaves, which taste. Being a spring time herb, Chervil flavoring in many of the sauces that form
resinous herbs that appear in a “Bouquet carotenoid, beta-carotene). are also rich in flavonoids. As chives are has a natural affinity for other spring time the foundation of classic French cuisine, The mix of equal parts of the four herbs
Garni”, which, unlike fines herbes, release usually served in small amounts and never foods: salmon, trout, young asparagus, new being a component of the herbes de Provence, described above gives us the “Fines Herbes”.
their flavour in long cooking. The fresh flavour and crisp texture of parsley as the main dish, negative effects are rarely potatoes, baby green beans and carrots, of the fines herbes and of French bouquet These, unlike most of the other herbs, lose
makes it an ideal accompaniment to most encountered, although digestive problems salads of spring greens. garni. Like Chervil it is a fundamental the potency of their flavour when dried.
Because of their “refined” and delicate foods. With its stronger flavour, it is more may occur following over-consumption. ingredient for the Bernaise sauce. In French The fresh “fines herbes “ blend should be
texture, we can add them to the dishes at frequently used in cooking, particularly French Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) cuisine, tarragon is preferred as a fresh herb minced very fine just before needed, and
the end of the cooking, preserving their since it stands up well to heat. Persillade and Chopped fresh and sprinkled, just before is a perennial herb related to Wormwood. whenever possible. added at the end of the dish’s cooking time,
important health nutrients. gremolada are two well known sauces which serving, they are a great improvement to It is native to a wide area of the Northern as heat tends to decrease its flavor. The Fines
have parsley as one of the main ingredients. salads, in particular to cucumber salad, and Hemisphere from easternmost Europe To be able to have the tarragon flavour Herbes are frequently suggested for subtly-
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) contains two Persillade, a French sauce, is a sauteed on sliced tomatoes or on mashed potatoes across central and eastern Asia to India. throughout the year, it is frequently preserved flavoured cold and warm dishes, e.g., salads,
types of unusual components that provide mixture of finely chopped parsley and garlic. they work both as a garnish and flavouring. in vinegar, which captures tarragon’s essence scrambled eggs, fish and poultry.
unique health benefits. The first type is It is added just before serving to broiled Chives are widely used in stews and soups, Tarragon was used by the ancient Greeks as and creates a tasty condiment that can be
volatile oil components, most notably meats, particularly lamb and beef, as well as especially potato and asparagus soups and a remedy for toothache. Today we know that used in dressings, mayonnaise and as a zesty My recipe for this month is for a
myristicin and the second type is flavonoids, chicken or vegetables. are often added to sour cream as a well as tarragon contains an anesthetic chemical, deglazing alternative to wine. Tarragon mouthwatering omelette that will help you
most notably Luteolin. many dips and spread recipes to give a more Eugenol, which is the major constituent vinegar is the only correct flavouring for start your day with a smile.
Gremolada is a Milanese condiment made complex taste. of anesthetic clove oil, making its use for Sauce Tartare, but must never be put into
Myristicin have been shown to inhibit of sauteed parsley, garlic, lemon and orange temporary pain relief understandable. soups, as the taste is too strong and pungent.
tumor formation in the lungs. The activity zest. This mixture is traditionally spread over Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) is a delicate
of parsley’s volatile oils qualifies it as a “che osso bucco just before serving, although it annual herb related to Parsley spread by the
moprotective” food, and in particular, a enhances any braised meats. Romans through most of Europe, where
food that can help neutralize particular
types of carcinogens (like the benzopyrenes Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) are the
it is now naturalised. Chervil had various
traditional uses. Pregnant women bathe in
Omelette With Gruyere and Fines Herbes
that are part of cigarette smoke and charcoal smallest species of the onion family. an infusion of it; a lotion of it was used as
grill smoke). a skin cleanser; and it was used medicinally INGREDIENTS DIRECTIONS until eggs are just set in center, tilting pan
Containing numerous organisulfide
as a blood purifier. That subtle, tender 3 large eggs 1. Heat an 8-inch, non-stick sautè pan and lifting edge of omelet with spatula to let
compounds such as allyl sulfides and
Luteolin have been shown to function as flavor-part anise, part parsley-that you’ve 1/4 cup organic fresh fine herbs, finely over medium-high heat. In a mixing bowl, uncooked portion flow underneath, about
alkyl sulfoxide, chives have a beneficial
antioxidants that combine with highly been trying to identify in the fish sauce, will chopped combine the eggs, fines herbs, salt and 2 minutes.
effect on the circulatory system, acting
reactive oxygen-containing molecules almost certainly turn out to be Chervil, one 1/3 cup (packed) grated GruyËre cheese pepper. Whisk briskly to incorporate well
upon it by lowering the blood pressure.
(called oxygen radicals) and help prevent of the staples of classic French cooking. 1/2 teaspoon salt all the ingredients. 3. Sprinkle half of omelet with the Gruyere
The organosulfur compounds they contain
oxygen-based damage to cells. 1/4 teaspoon white pepper cheese. Using a spatula, fold other half of
inhibit tumor growth and cell proliferation,
Most frequently it is used to flavor eggs, 2 tablespoons butter 2. Add the butter to the sautè pan and omelet over cheese; loosen the omelette by
and arrest the cell cycle in tumor cells. Allium
In addition to its volatile oils and flavonoids, fish, chicken and light sauces and dressings. quickly pour the eggs into the pan. Cook shaking the pan and slide it out onto plate.
vegetables, including chives, especially have
parsley is an excellent source of two vital a protective effect against both esophageal It also combines well with mild cheeses and

28 TASTE | March - April 2009 March - April 2009 | TASTE 29


tapas Salmon Confit A trio of foie gras

A Trio
at Mozaic
Always stylish and incredibly creative, Chris Salans and his team
at Mozaic have introduced a new tapas menu which draws on the
Chocolate tapas Sorbet trio
main menu and the restaurant’s distinctive style for inspiration.

Tapas has come to mean much more than the simple


Spanish dishes designed to accompany drinks
Which means there will be a degree of flexibility and
change in the menu.
Roasted Squab The “feathers” trio

and Mozaic may well win the award for the most
with chocolate ganache, with roasted squab (centre)

innovative tapas menu this side of Madrid. “ An example of what we will feature on our trio horseradish and beetroot
plates will include a fish trio, a shellfish trio, a white
• New Zealand squab sous vide to 53
Available in trios, each with a theme, the tapas will meat trio, a red meat one, probably a foie gras
degrees
be served in the lounge bar and will provide a taste inspiration, a cheese trio, sorbet and a chocolate
• Then basted in butter, thyme and
of Mozaic in all its stylish ramifications. one,” says the ever passionate Chef.
roasted garlic
The menu will evolve and change according to the
“I wanted the tapas menu to reflect what we do in seasons, the best available produce and will always CHOCOLATE GANACHE
the dining room. It is designed for people who want rely on the classical techniques that are the backbone • Valrhona chocolate 72% 100gm
to sit in the lounge and don’t need a large dinner. of everything produced at Mozaic. • Raspberry vinegar 1tbs
Also for those coming in late to enjoy the music or • Walnut oil 1tbs
a late night snack and for those who haven’t made a “I am very exacting about technique. A good • Olive oil 1tbs
reservation on a busy night,” explains Chris. percentage of my menu is prepared using the sous • Pinch of salt
vide technique. Our kitchens feature the latest HORSERADISH JELLY
The lounge regularly features live music on Friday Rational ovens, which make my life so much easier • Fresh milk 200ml
and Saturday nights and draws a dedicated crowd. as it is no longer necessary to constantly monitor • Milk powder 20gm METHOD
These are often the busiest nights for the restaurant the cooking process. The oven will do that for you.” • Agar Agar 4.5gm For the chocolate ganache melt the For the foam, put all the items in a pan
as well. Chris has used Rational for many years and is a great • Horseradish freshly grated 30gm chocolate over a bain marie. once the and bring to a first boil. Remove from
supporter of the technology. • White vinegar 10ml chocolate is melted incorporate all the other heat, cover and allow to infuse for 20
The tapas will feature scaled down versions inspired • Salt –pinch ingredients. minutes. Using a hand blender emulsify
by Mozaic’s innovative cuisine. “I wanted the tapas From tapas to degustation: the option to graze or HORSERADISH FOAM to get the foam.
to reflect what we do. It comes from the same really indulge, now offers the same promise – the • Milk 200ml For the horseradish jelly bring the milk, milk
kitchen, using the same mise-en-place and will be food will be creative, exciting and wonderful, • Horseradish fresh 30gm powder and agar agar to a boil. Incorporate Assemble according to desired presentation.
inspired by what we are putting on that evening’s wherever you decide to sit. • Lemon Thyme 5gm the horseradish, vinegar and seasoning.
menu,” he continues. • seasoning Refrigerate.

30 TASTE | March - April 2009


Chinoiserie introduces
the modern face of
Singapore’s cuisine
Billed as the only authentic Singaporean restaurant in Bali,
Chinoiserie has evolved the traditional dishes of Singapore and its
many neighbours into a light, modern cuisine. The flavours however
are pure Peranakan.

The cuisine of Singapore reflects its ethnic reviving them by giving them a contemporary
diversity. The cuisine known as Peranakan look and feel. A modern presentation, fresh
(meaning descendants and referring to those ingredients, flavourful stocks, no flavour
known as Straits Chinese), is possibly the enhancers and limited use of thickeners,
most famous, and successful, of all fusion results in a Chinese-influenced menu that
food, combining a number of influences is lighter, relies on fresh ingredients and is
including Chinese, Malay, Indian, Thai, full of surprises.
Portugese (Macau), Indonesian and even
Western influences. The restaurant is a beautiful open space;
wine and cocktails figure heavily on the
The cuisines and flavours have played on drinks menu, creating a package that feels
one another for over a century. Chefs of luxurious and sets it apart from many Asian-
Chinese ethnic background are influenced style restaurants.
by Indian culture and might experiment
with condiments and ingredients such as While Fui, his partner Bernard and young
tamarind, turmeric, ghee and five spices, Chef de Cuisine, Alung are very matter
while an Indian chef might serve food of fact when discussing their restaurant,
prepared using plenty of coconut-based the façade slips however when Dewandra,
products. our photographer, mentions the famous
No Signboard Restaurant in Singapore.
The major difference between traditional According to these guys Fui is the king of
Chinese dishes and those prepared in Chili Crab “Although here in Bali the crab
Singapore is that the sauces are generally is no good for this dish, too soft, we use
much lighter and rely on slow cooked lobster, or flipper, very good,” they all rave.
master stocks for their flavour. Chinoiserie’s
veteran chef and partner, Fui, was born in Chinoiserie appears to have successfully
Malaysia and spent twenty years cooking created a cuisine that is a little bit Nyonya, a
in Singapore. Together with Bernard Foo, little bit Chinese, with plenty of Singaporean
they now have four restaurants including street cred and very 2009. In March,
one in East Timor, called Erily Sun. Chinoiserie will launch a live seafood.

Fui has gone back to the roots of Peranakan Chinoiserie is located on The Sunset Road,
cuisine, seeking out forgotten recipes and near Carrefour.

32 TASTE | March - April 2009


Hot Pot Curry Prawn Steamed Fish Fillet with
Prawn
Curry Powder
Garlic (chopped)
300g
1tsp
1tsp
Black Bean Sauce
Onion (chopped) 1tsp To create a more modern dish, Chinoisserie Use the same pan, combine all sauce steam fish fillet for 15min. Drain the water,
Curry Leaves 5pcs uses fish fillets instead of the more ingredients together and boil for 2min. pour the sauce and black beans on the top.
Milk 3tbsp traditional whole fish. Sprinkle with spring onions.
Coconut Milk 2tbsp Fish Fillet 250g Place fish fillet in a plate. Heat up a steamer,
Salt 1/2tsp Black Beans 30g
Chicken Powder 1tsp Garlic (shredded) 30g
Chicken Soup 3/4 cup Red Onion (sliced) 30g
Vegetable Oil 2tsp
 Ginger (shredded) 20g
Red Chili (shredded) 1pc
Cut open the back of each Prawn. Heat up Spring Onion (chopped) 1tbsp
a wok, add 1tsp Vegetable Oil and Prawn,
then stir fry for a few minutes. Remove and (Sauce)
keep aside. Soya Sauce 3tsp
Chinese Wine 1tsp
Heat up a pan with 1tsp Vegetable Oil, Chicken Powder 1tsp
stir-fry Garlic, Onion, fresh Curry Leaves Sugar 1tsp
till fragrant. Add Curry Powder, Chicken Sesame Oil 1tsp
Soup (master stock), Chicken Powder, and Coriander 1tbsp
Salt, then stir fry until fragrant.
Heat up a wok, stir fry garlic, red onion,
Return prawns to the pan, add Milk and ginger, red chili until brown, then add
Coconut Milk and boil for a minute. Heat black beans and stir for 1min. Remove
a hot pot and transfer the prawn curry to from the pan and keep aside.
the pot when hot to serve.

Coffee Pork Spare Rib 1kg (Sauce)


Chinese delicacy soup
Ribs
Ginger Juice 50g Coffee Powder 50g This soup is a time-honoured traditional
Plain Flour 50g HP Sauce 100g Chinese/Malay recipe and like most
Potato Flour 80g Worcestershire Sauce 50g master stocks it can be adjusted as it slowly
Baking Powder 1tsp Tomato Sauce 4tsp simmers. The texture from the bones gives
Water 300g Orange Jam 3tsp it a wonderful texture. The restaurant will
Black Vinegar 2tsp usually use up to 30 kg of fish and bones
Sugar 80g and cook the stock slowly over one and a
Water 300g half days.

For Pork Pork Knuckle 1kg


Wash Spare Rib with water and Dry. Mix Chicken 1kg
with Ginger, Plane Flour, Potato Flour, Water 2lt
Baking Powder, Salt, and Water. Marinate Dried Squid 50g
for 30min. White Pepper 50g
Deep fry into hot oil for a while until Whole Fish 5kg
golden browned. Squid 300g
Shrimp 200g
For Sauce Mushroom 30g
Heat up a pan, boil all sauce ingredients White Fungi 80g Put soup ingredients to a pot (increase wine. Add a bowl of prepared stock and
together, and then bring down to a simmer (Sauce) quantities of fish according to amount the rest of the sauce ingredients. Boil for
for 20mins. Use a strainer to clear the sauce. Vegetable Oil 2tsp required. Water levels need to be adjusted 5min.
Oyster Sauce 2tsp during cooking time.) Simmer for at least
Place the deep fried spare ribs in the sauce Chinese Wine 1tsp one hour, the longer, the richer and thicker Optional: Add additional fish, squid,
for a few minutes over low heat before Soy Sauce 1tsp the stock will become. shrimp, mushroom, white fungi, to the
serving. Chicken Powder 1/2tsp soup and boil until cooked, approximately
Salt 1/2tsp Before serving, heat up another pan with 5min. Place in the bowl and pour soup over
Sugar 1/2tsp
 vegetable oil; add oyster sauce and Chinese to serve.
34 TASTE | March - April 2009 March - April 2009 | TASTE 35
BCP Membership 2009
NAME COMPANY NAME COMPANY
Simon Yap Asri Indonesia, PT I Made Budartha Kayu Manis Nusa Dua
Dienly Wong Asri Indonesia, PT Wendy Jane Thomas Kevala Ceramics
Winyoto
Josef Zopf
Asri Indonesia, PT
Aerowisata Catering Service
I Gusti Nyoman Jaya
Ralf Schmidt
Kori Restaurant
Kori Restaurant Next BCP Lunch
David Smith Alam boga Komang Gede Subawa Kori Restaurant
Reina Triastuty
Vynna Indra
Vera Lukito
Alam boga
Alam boga
Anantara
Roland Zauner
Markus Reichl
Henny Santoso
Kupu Barong
Legian Beach Hotel
Lotus Distribution
March
Olaf Aistleitner Arena Sport Café Bill Busch Lotus Distribution
Ni Wayan Santo Asih Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT Ayu Suharyani Lotus Distribution
Adrianto Mulia Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT Patrick Marty Ma Joly Venue : The Legian
Haryanto Mulia Aromaduta Rasa Prima, PT Torsten Schubert Maldives Address : Jl. Laksamana
Alexander Erich Aston Kuta Jeff Matthews Mandara Spa
Ketut Sukamara Ayodya Resort Yannis van Heckerer Mannekepis Bistro Seminyak Beach, Bali
Attila Koermoeczi Ayodya Resort Jayadi Masuya Graha Trikencana, PT Day/date : Saturday, 28 March 2009
Ayung Ko Jung Lien Bali Bakery Hidayat Megah Food Trading
Ivan Prakarsa Bali Bakery Christian Beaulieu Melia Bali Time : 12.30
Sutedjo Bali Bakery Alejandro Jimenez Real Melia Bali
Mario Caramella Bali Hyatt Ketut Sumatra Melia Benoa
Peter Rieger Balivillas.com Agustien Kantiana MIC
Isabella Lin Balivillas.com Christopher J Salans Mozaic
Endris Yuliawati Balivillas.com Robert Otillie Nemo Wetsuit
Sugihanto Sachid Bapak Bakery Stefan Mueller Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Michael Heriyono Buana Agung Lestari I Made Sumariana Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Nyoman Sudiarna Buana Agung Lestari I Gusti Susrama Mekel Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
I Wayan Budiarsa Buana Agung Lestari I Made Sudana Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Andrew Skinner Bulgari Sang Ketut Sumi Adnyana Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Heinz Von Holzen Bumbu Bali Katarina Sari Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
I Made Darsana Canggu Club Juergen Domani Nikko Bali Resort & Spa
Dennis Langlois Carrefour Ni Ayu Winarmi Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
I Gde Rastarama Classic Fine Foods Reto Victor Torriani Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Dhany Parwanto Classic Fine Foods I Gusti Agung Alit Subawa Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Bayu Lagimin Classic Fine Foods I Ketut Mudana Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Joanes Cantius Tjoeng Delta Satria Dewata, PT Darren Lauder Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa BCP wishes to recognise all its major sponsors
Kib Roby Dharma teas Jeremy Cooper Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa
Betty Subekty Dineta Jaya John Taylor Padma Bali for 2008 events and gratefully acknowledge
Inneke Hoo Dineta Jaya Wayan Nurisa Padma Bali
Eka Saputra
Made Sebastian Suanda
Dineta Jaya
Discovery Kartika Plaza
Ketut Pong Atmajaya
Ian Roberts
Padma Bali
Pamerindo
their tremendous support.
Djoko Sebastian Discovery Kartika Plaza Kadek Widiantara Papa’s Café
Hermann Feigl Discovery Kartika Plaza Chung Chung Papaya Fresh Gallery
AA Rai Gunawan Discovery Kartika Plaza Jahn Roger Pepito Café
I Nyoman Candra Discovery Kartika Plaza Carlos Vinas Barmona Pica Tapas
I Nyoman Wirata Discovery Kartika Plaza Dewi Rusmala Pica Tapas
Terry Deweer DP Kitchen Jimmy Julianto Pica Tapas
Johan Meyers DP Kitchen Neeta Malhotra Queens tandoor
Agung Pradnya Dewa Dwijaya Ing Gerold Eichinger Raja Bamboo, CV
Ayu Dwijaya Sven Hollinger Satria Pangan Sejati
Sarawoot Lerdmaleewong Ecolab Rick Bolt Smart Energy
Herlina Manurung Ecolab Enny Kudung Soejasch
Eko Putranto Ecolab Tutik Yantini Soejasch
Wayan Sumerta ex Discovery Mr Robert Jansen Soejasch
Klaus Kalweit Four Seasons Resort Oscar Perez St Regis Bali
Nyoman Maleachi Four Seasons Resort Edi Sidarta St Regis Bali
I Nyoman Warta Four Seasons Resort Rusli C.J. Lokman Sukanda Djaya, PT
I Wayan Gelgel Four Seasons Resort I Gusti Ngurah Arya Wibawa Sukanda Djaya, PT
Swee Leong (Bobby) Wong Four Seasons Resort I Made Manahara Sukanda Djaya, PT
Made Widana Four Seasons Resort Sally Suli Harta, UD
I Gusti Ketut Oka Four Seasons Resort Made Adi Wibawa Suli Harta, UD
Saptono Grand Hyatt Bali Helmin Dequelyu Suli Harta, UD
Wayan Widiana Grand Hyatt Bali I Wayan Sudiana The Bali Khama
Ernst Jaeck Grand Hyatt Bali Nigel Ames The Beach House
Sang Ketut Jiwa Griya Santrian Hotel Jacky Ames The Beach House
Ida Ayu Sutamaya Hocatsu Bali,PT I Made Putra The Laguna
David Tan Hocatsu Bali,PT I Made Linggi The Laguna
Anik Purwati Hocatsu Bali,PT Nyoman Wijana The Laguna
Leony Rossalia Hartono Holidai Inn Ridwan The Laguna
Philip Parfait Ekoto Mimbima Hu’u Bali Aprin Sukarno Putra The Laguna
Rositha Wardhani Ikan Segar Bali Ida Bagus Partama The Laguna
Arie Sumartini Ikan Segar Bali Andreas Krampl The Ritz-Carlton
Bill Marinelli Ikan Segar Bali Dean Keddel The Ritz-Carlton
Helmut Walter Schafer Illy Coffee Ron Pietruszka The Ritz-Carlton Osaka
Pramudya Bevan Illy Coffee I Made Lugra The Samaya
Sarita Sanowi Indoguna Bali Michael Shaheen The Samaya
I Nyoman Parwata Indoguna Bali Ray Clark The Samaya
Ayu Catur Wati Indoguna Bali I Wayan Semudra The Samaya
John Reese Intercontinental Markus Krickelberg The Westin
Rene Oskam Intercontinental Shirkandi (lulu) Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Niniek TS Inti Kulit Ni Made Kariani Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Edward Kwon Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Budhi Setiawan Tedja Tirta Sakti Mandiri
Gian Luigi Gerosa Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Puri Danandari Prodjo Unilever Food Solutions
Felix Schmid Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Kristini Sutirta Unilever Food Solutions
Dale Schnell Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Andi Ayu Purnama Unilever Food Solutions
Laurent Varachaud Jumeirah Burj Al Arab Claire Quinn Villa Coco
I Ketut Sudana Kayu Manis Nusa Dua Kevin Sinclair Watergarden Hotel
Wayan Merta Astawa Kayu Manis Nusa Dua Made Witha Witha Bakery

36 TASTE | March - April 2009


chefs day-out

Ever worried that your team isn’t working together as well as


it could? The latest team-building destination is certain to
correct this situation, and it is also a lot of fun.

Jimbaran Hills Activity Centre has been designed


by an ex British paratrooper who takes his fun very
seriously. Here he has designed a series of team
building programs that can last a few hours, a night or
a weekend, depending on the numbers and the needs.

The first surprise is the brilliant arsenal that this man


brings to the table, Mr 4429, he likes to be called for
various reasons we won’t explore here. You can tell this
guy is serious despite the boyish pleasure he takes in
his games.

“I have designed the course so that teams can go through


military-style exercises based on my experiences. It
is a great way to get people working together and to
test them in circumstances quite different to what
“It is surprising how different people react when they
they probably encounter in their working lives,” he
are given a task and a team and pitted against others.
explains.
The leaders soon emerge and there is a great sense of
pulling together to accomplish goals in this survival
This can be everything from war games to survival
scenario,” explains Mr. 4429.
courses, target practice, abseiling, unarmed combat
and water games.
Of course, aside from team building this is also a great
day out for families, groups of adults or kids. Barbecue
facilities are available and camping is an option for
those who want to take part in night manoeuvres or
just experience something different.

The paintball and air soft course is situated in a stone


quarry and set up like a war zone with bunkers and
strategically located hiding spots. There are already
some regular teams that have formed and come to
play the war games, pitted against each other. The
competition among the experienced players can be
fierce, but naturally, there are rules.

And watch out for Mr 4429 if you break them. You


have been warned!

38 TASTE | March - April 2009

You might also like