Celebrate

— Christmas

84
REGULARS
G GL A
A ZIN

ZE

8 Editor’s Letter 32 Drinks 115

M-

10 Masthead & Inbox A festive guide to top tipples. HA

13 In Season 34 The Finishing Touches
Adam D’Sylva brings you his All the trimmings, from sauces and
ultimate summer seafood menu. dressings to a supreme stuffing.
21 Gift guide 38 Cheese Counter
A gift idea for everyone on your list. The smooth stylings of creme fraiche.
26 Subscribe to delicious. 40 Yotam Ottolenghi
28 Eat Out The most vibrant summer salad.
The best new eateries and 42 What’s Trending / Matt Preston
the hottest trends in dining. Pudding, pav, cheesecake or trifle?
30 Food News Join the Christmas dessert debate.
Tasty bites of the latest in food, 44 Masterclass
plus pro tips for seasonal seafood. How to ace a classic Christmas cake.
 CONTENTS.

+W
NU I

N
ME

E PAIRIN
G 68
Coastal chic –
Roasted prawns with yuzu
& kosho butter + Grilled blue
mackerel with ‘nduja butter, p 64
Momento Mori Fistful of Flowers
—
Moscato Giallo & Vermentino,
2022 ($36)
~
Grilled broccolini with macadamia
cream and sweet & sour currants
+ Tomato salad with crispy capers
and croutons, p 62
Christophe et Fils Chablis
AC Chardonnay, 2022 ($60)
~
Pavlova wreath with mango cream
and passionfruit mint syrup, p 66
Frank Cornelissen Munjebel CR
Nerello Mascalese. 2019 ($120) I F YO U H A D TO C O O K
JUST ONE THING... 129
“I’m not usually a baker at Christmas,
Andy Emerson, but after tasting everything at
Owner, Bar Elvina Natalie Paull’s baking feature photo
shoot, I’m converting! Every single
recipe is perfect. I’m totally inspired
to bake these buns to share with
Turn to p 58 for the full story. my girlfriends and family this year.
They’re truly divine, and a must
if you’re after a special edibile gift.”
Hayley Incoll, Creative Director

S AV O U R

48 Entertaining 104 Collab

Aria head chef Tom Gorringe Five Christmas roasts that also
shares his Christmas menu. make for epic Boxing Day leftovers.
58 At home with… 116 Guest Chef / Paul Farag
The Emersons in their coastal home. Tasked with bringing a side dish this
68 Guest Chef / Annita Potter year? These recipes will win the day.
A bright and fruity Thai menu. 124 Natalie Paull
76 Extract / Meatsmith Melbourne Our newest contributor bakes
Master the classics with Andrew up a storm for the festive season.
McConnell and Troy Wheeler. 134 Extract / Kirsten Tibballs
84 Team Lunch Chocolate every which way so you
A potluck lunch at delicious. HQ. can have chocolate every day.
96 Extract / Joseph Abboud 142 Wicked
The Rumi chef and owner shares Our food team gets creative
some of his most beloved recipes. with Christmas gingerbread.

delicious.com.au 5
 CONTENTS.

T R AV E L & L U X U RY

154 Check In
Live out your English manor
fantasies at Heckfield Place,
the ultimate country retreat
in rural Hampshire, UK.
159 Travel News
Where to stay, what to pack and
more items for your bucket list.
162 Local
Explore the east coast at your pace,
on a road trip to some seriously
stylish stays. We call shotgun!
168 City Guide
Cape Town has emerged from its
Covid cocoon as a blossoming
butterfly of a city, filled with exciting
dining, hot hotels and cool shopping.
178 Passport
Chef and restaurateur Alessandro
Pavoni shares where to stay, eat
and explore in Lombardy, Italy.

TRY!
ST
MU

MAKE THIS RECIPE

Matt Preston reckons this is THE
dessert of Christmas 2023, and
we suspect he might be right! The
perfect mix of sweet, sour and spice,
it’s everything naughty and nice
that you’ll want at your festive table
this year. Find the recipe on p 42.
Show us your version by tagging 154
@deliciousaus & #makeitdelicious

ON TH E COVE R FOR MORE DELICIOUS. CONTENT, GO TO:

GINGERBREAD PAV WITH delicious.com.au
SOUR CHERRY SORBET
(recipe p 42) FOLLOW US:
@deliciousaus
RECIPE Matt Preston
PHOTOGRAPHY Ben Dearnley
STYLING Bernie Smithies OFFICIAL DELICIOUS. TEST
KITCHEN SUPPLIER:
Our meat is supplied by
Vic’s Meat; vicsmeat.com.au

6 delicious.com.au
 T

8
DISTINCTIVELY FLAVOURED
premium quality extra virgin olive oils, vinegars, salts, condiments

Available from Pukara Estate Muswellbrook, Pokolbin or Newcastle stores and select food
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inbox delicious. EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Krysia Bonkowski

CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOOD DIRECTOR

Follow us on social Hayley Incoll

EDITORIAL
Lucy Nunes

Assistant Editor Corinne Parkes

— @deliciousaus #makeitdelicious Chief Sub Editor Alison Turner
Travel Editor Constantina Demos
Editorial Coordinator Monika Hecimovic
Senior Editor Matt Preston
Contributing Editors
WHAT YOU’RE George Epaminondas, Kate Gibbs

LOVING... ART
Art Director Rebecca Buttrose

FOOD
5.7 K LI K E S , 1. 3 K S H A R E S Food Editor Tracey Pattison
Studio Assistant Phoebe Hird
Our September cover star was also a hit Food Enquiries [email protected]

on socials, with plenty of thumbs up for DIGITAL DIRECTOR

this indulgent pavlova with rosemary John Hannan

orange syrup and cardamom cream. DIGITAL

Digital Editor Erina Starkey
Find the recipe + more perfect News Editor Elizabeth McDonald
pavlova ideas at delicious.com.au Senior Digital Producer Mark Mariano
Contributing Food Editor, Digital Warren Mendes
RECIPE: @ottolenghi Video Production Manager Magna Chan
PHOTO: @chriscourt CONTRIBUTORS
STYLING: @vivienwalshstylist Joseph Abboud, Danielle Alvarez, Mike Bennie, Sarah Bristow, Chris Court, Ben Dearnley,
Adam D’Sylva, Andy Emerson, Paul Farag, Tom Gorringe, Armelle Habib, Alan Jensen, Ute
Junker, Emma Knowles, Jonathan Lovekin, Ross Magnaye, Lauren Mathers, Andrew McConnell,
Mike McEnearney, David Morgan, Yotam Ottolenghi, Natalie Paull, Alessandro Pavoni Annita
Potter, Adrian Richardson, Mark Roper, Chris Schalkx, Berni Smithies, Brett Stevens, Ellie
Studd, Sam Studd, Kirsten Tibballs, Vivien Walsh, Merrick Watts, Troy Wheeler, Diana Whitton

LETTER
MANAGING DIRECTOR, FOOD CORP
OF THE MONTH... Fiona Nilsson
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
I read the October issue of delicious. in the chaotic cafe Kerrie McCallum
area of a soft play centre (school holidays). As my kids ran Director of Communications Sharyn Whitten
Head of Retail Marketing, Retail Sales & Marketing Rohan Smith
themselves ragged, I got super-inspired and made a shopping GM Product & Partnerships, Food Corp Rachael Delalande
list. In two days, I cooked the roasted flat mushrooms with GM Product Integration Nicole Waudby
tahini and pistachio gremolata and the spicy sugo eggs with Senior Product Integration Manager, Food Corp Adelaide Johnson
sausage and cannellini beans, and my six-year-old son and Product Integration Manager, Food Corp Tessarne Rowley
Product Implementation Managers Sally Longobardi, Alana Pasquale
I had an awesome time mixing up a tray of no-nut granola bars. Senior Marketing Manager, Food Corp Michelle Kaplan
Thanks, delicious., for a banger of an issue. I have many more Marketing Executive, Food Corp Cathy Jiang
recipes to try before my next issue arrives. Alexis Shorehill
MANAGING DIRECTOR, NATIONAL SALES
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Technology, auto-cook Lead Art Director Karen Ng Senior Art Directors Lisa Klaus, Nicole Vonwiller
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with 22 cooking functions –
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10 delicious.com.au
1

IN 4
SEASON
 “I THINK WE’VE
GOT SOME OF
THE BEST SEAFOOD
IN THE WORLD...
WE’RE VERY
LUCKY.”

I
 SNAPPER
Crispy fried snapper with
coconut caramel
(p 18)

“This is a ‘wow’ dish. The

whole fish, all fried and
crispy, looks amazing
when it’s presented. The
sweet, salty flavours with
the crispy texture of the
snapper is just delicious.”
 1/

1/ 2

1/ 2

1/ 2
1/

21/ 2

3/4 1/ 3

1/ 2 11/ 2
1/4

1/ 2
1/

1/ 2

delicious.com.au 17
delicious.com.au 21
 “My Christmas
wish this year is the 7.
Gozney Dome S1
pizza oven, so I can 5.
whip up delicious
3. pizzas for my family 6.
and friends.”
– LUCY NUNES
4.

2.

FOOD
Hungry for gift ideas for the 11.
food-lover in your life? We’ve 10.
got the perfect recipe right here.

G S T U F FE
N
STO CKI

1. Good Day People Sleighing Steve Gift Hamper, $200, gooddaypeople.com 2. Haigh’s Luxury Advent Calendar, $1,275,
haighschocolates.com.au 3. Cacao Chocolate Marshmallow Snowballs, $19.50, cacao.com.au 4. Gozney Dome S1 Pizza Oven,
$1,999, au.gozney.com 5. Aquna Murray Cod Caviar, $72.95, simonjohnson.com 6. With Love, Chaos and Rigatoni by Jenna
Holmes, $35, booktopia.com.au 7. Two Good Co. Change the Course Cookbook, $45, twogood.com.au 8. Robert Gordon
Handy Little Things Double Spoon, $32.95, Pinch Pot, $15.95, Measuring Cup, $25.95, Garlic Canister, $36.95, Hand Juicer,
13.
$21.95, and Coffee Scoop, $18.95, robertgordonaustralia.com 9. Sardine Supply Can T-Shirt, $130, sardinesupply.com
10. Maxwell & Williams Graze Rectangular Serving Board Natural 57 x 16 x 2cm, $17.20, amazon.com.au 11. Monista Tea
Co. Christmas Tea, $36.95, monistatea.com.au 12. KitchenAid KSM195 Stand Mixer in Majestic Yellow, $799,
harveynorman.com.au 13. Messina X Two Good To Miss Chocolate Brownie Bar, $14, twogood.com.au

22 delicious.com.au
 T UF F
GS E
G

STO KIN

R
C
3.

4.

HOME
Give the gift of style this Christmas with
these elegant finds that will add a touch
of class to every room in the house.
14.
5.

6.
12.
STAIN
SU
AB
LE

13.

“French designer
Sarah Espeute hand-
embroiders still-life
motifs onto vintage
fabrics in her studio
8. in Marseille – they
are as much works
of art as they are
table dressings.”
9. – KRYSIA BONKOWSKI
10.
metre, marimekko.com/au_en 2. Hunter Candles Figgy Pudding, $59,
, leifproducts.com 4. The Society Inc by Sibella Court Banks Lantern 120, $335,
nsibles Indigo Runner, $800, oeuvres-sensibles.com 6. Ralph Lauren A Way of
me Kit, $75, hunterlab.com.au 8. Glasshouse Frangrances Night Before Christmas
109, glasshousefragrances.com 9. Alex and Trahanas Diponto Etched Ceramic
0. Grampians Grown Luxe Lather Lotion Duet, $69, grampiansgoodsco.com.au
ug, $79.95, Round Jug, $69.95 and Platter, $99.95, robertgordonaustralia.com
sk Lamp, $395, thesocietyinc.com.au 13. Louise Olsen X Alex And Trahanas
14. Alex and Trahanas Woven Raffia Bread Basket, $140, alexandtrahanas.com

delicious.com.au 23
 C KI N G S
O

ST

TU
FFER
GIFT GUIDE.

3.

2.
4.
1.

TRAVEL
For those who love to roam, these 5.
pack-worthy presents all make for
the ideal travelling companion.

7. 6.

“Packing cubes are

the gift that keeps
on giving. Your
globe-trotting loved
one will be thanking
you throughout the
year as they put
them to good use.”
– CONSTANTINA DEMOS

11.

14.
13. 12.

1. Vans Ultrarange Exo Hi Gore-Tex, $399.99, vans.com.au 2. The North Face Borealis Backpack, $130, thenorthface.com.au
3. Sony WF-1000XM5 Premium Truly Wireless Earbuds, $419, harveynorman.com.au 4. GoPro Hero12, $648,
harveynorman.com.au 5. The Grampians Goods Co. Heritage Collection Recycled Wool Scottish Tartan Blankets,
$179, grampiansgooddco.com.au 6. Nere Stori 3-Pack Packing Cube, $24.99, strandbags.com.au 7. Brixton Harper
Panama Straw Hat, $259.95, au.brixton.com 8. Chloe Sunglasses, $700, and Gucci Sunglasses, $950, eyewearindex.com
9. Foemina Agnes Dress, $318, foemina.com 10. Country Road Natural Evans Timber Bocce Set, $59.95, countryroad.
com.au 11. Nere Slim Luggage Tag, $4.99, strandbags.com.au 12. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Watch, $16,600,
zenith-watches.com 13. Ultimate Eears EpicBoom Portable Bluetooth Speaker, $499, harveynorman.com.au
14. Robert Gordon Journey Tote Bag, $84.95, robertgordonaustralia.com 15. Unyoked Prescription To The
Wilderness gift card, one night $233, two nights $446, two weekend nights $506, unyoked.co

24 delicious.com.au
 2.

“Drinks, like the

Christmas spirit,
have the power
to warm hearts,
kindle joy and
create unforgettable
1. moments shared
with loved ones.” 5.
– JOHN HANNAN 4.

6.

7.

Raise a glass to friends and loved ones

with these gift ideas that are sure to
get everyone into the holiday spirit.

11.
14. 12.
13.

10.
15.
1. Lark Distillery Christmas Cask, $250, larkdistillery.com 2. Coravin Timeless Six+ Wine Preservation System, $419.97, coravin.com.au
3. Archie Rose Distilling Co. Core Range, $69-$119, archierose.com.au 4. Olsson’s Smokin’ Chilli Cocktail Salt, $15, olssons.com.au
5. Country Road Ester Cocktail Glasses (set of 2), $69.95, countryroad.com.au 6. Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque Rosé 2013 Vintage,
$349.99 and Belle Époque Vintage, $289.99, danmurphys.com.au 7. Aarke Matte White Carbonator, $299, aarke.au 8. Never Never
Distilling Co. Oyster Shell Gin, $79, neverneverdistilling.com.au 9. Polka Non-Alc Botanical Spirit, $39.95, polkadrops.com.au
10. Saardé Wine Glasses, $59 each, saarde.com 11. The Macallan Double Cask 18 Years Old, $615, themacallan.com 12. The Society
Inc by Sibella Court Landlubber Bottle Opener, $42, thesocietyinc.com.au 13. Remy Martin Louis XIII Cognac Magnum, $12,000,
danmurphys.com.au 14. Chandon Limited-Edition Vintage Brut 2016 Magnum, $110, chandon.com.au 15. T2 Tea The Festival
of Flavour 12-Day Advent Calendar, $240, t2tea.com 16. Maison Balzac Bordeaux Gift Set, $389, maisonbalzac.com
SUBSCRIBE NOW &
RECEIVE A BONUS
CHRISTMAS COOKBOOK
 Already a subscriber?
Simply extend your
subscription to receive
your bonus gift!

The joy of Christmas is only heightened when

you share beautiful food made from the heart,
and this cookbook is filled with inspiration
to help you create spectacular dishes all
throughout the festive season. Bake biscuits
to gift, whip up tantalising bites to delight,
embrace a traditional menu or serve up
sensational seafood. You’ll find it all inside,
right down to that show-stopping pav, pud
or trifle – everything that’s magical,
memorable and delicious.

*Allow up to 4 weeks from the time of order for the delivery of your bonus
gift. Offer ends January 10, 2024, or while stocks last, and is valid for
Australian delivery only. An annual subscription to delicious. includes
11 issues p.a. For automatic renewal print subscriptions, $99.00 will be
charged to your credit card for the first 12 months (11 issues) then $99.00
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You can cancel any time. Our privacy policy can be found at
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delicious.com.au 27
 Talking TABLES
— Hot restaurants, the latest news, trends & more.

Antara 128,
Melbourne
Stretching the limits of a conventional
bakehouse, this highly anticipated
new bakery and brasserie by the
group behind Sunda, Aru and Kudo
is a true all-dayer. Viennoiserie and
bread by Didiet Radityawan (ex-Vue
de Monde) and Michael James of
Tivoli Road feature in the breakfast
menu, with head chef Allan Doert-
Eccles (ex-Trader House group)
taking over from lunch and into the
evening with dishes heavily inspired
by the in-house woodfired oven.

PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS MCCONVILLE, DEXTER KIM, NIKKI TO

East End Cellars Nor wood,
Adelaide .
Cult city wine store and bar EEC has
struck out into the suburbs. With a wine Alfie’s, Sydney . Bask, Sunshine Coast .
list featuring 600 bottles (a selection
You’re unlikely to suffer decision paralysis After finessing the art of the long lunch
culled down from the 15,000-strong
at this breezy new CBD steakhouse from in the tiny Sunshine Coast Hinterland
offering at the flagship Vardon Avenue
The Gidley and Bistecca team. The menu town of Eumundi, Bask restaurant has
outpost), the 120-seat space has an
revolves around a single cut – a 220g moved into a new home a stone’s throw
equal emphasis on food, with ex-Osteria
sirloin Riverine steak, wet- and dry-aged from the shore at Peregian Beach. With
Oggi and Press* Food & Wine chef Josh
in-house. Add to this a small but mighty Bask Bakery on the morning shift, lunch
Lansley curating the all-day menu.
selection of sides, such as a fresh riff on and dinner will showcase the produce-
bubble & squeak – on offer in full and half driven menu and impeccable styling that
portions – and a super-chilled martini. made the original a local favourite.

CURATED BY ERINA STARKEY | FOLLOW ME: @erinastarkey

 HOT NOW . HOT NOW . HOT NOW . HOT NOW . HOT NOW . HOT NO

Plates with heart

Social enterprise Free to Feed has
reopened its Northcote space with
a vibrant new look and feel that
celebrates the diverse cultures of
the asylum seekers and refugees
that work there. freetofeed.org.au

FOR MORE RESTAURANT NEWS: delicious.com.au/eatout 29

Bits & BITES
— Foodie finds for your kitchen, home & life.

CUP O’ XMAS
Single O has dropped
its annual Sugarplum
festive release. The
‘Fanfare’ blend adds
Yuletide cheer to your
daily brew with notes
of candied cherry,
plum and cocoa.
singleo.com.au

YOUR
W
O
PR
#KN

ODUCER

Home
GROWN MARKET DAYS
Sharon Winsor – the
Melbourne’s iconic Queen Victoria
2023 delicious. Harvey
Market is revealing the next stage of
Norman Produce Award
its multi-million dollar renovation just
winner for Outstanding
in time for the pre-Christmas rush.
Native Producer – has
Queen’s Food Hall, opening in
a new home in Mudgee,
November, replaces the original food
at the newly opened
hall, with an array of new vendors
The Garden Bar &
and eateries offering the perfect
Kitchen by Indigiearth
excuse to extend your market outing.
at Huntington Estate.

30 delicious.com.au
Drinks
— with our resident sippers the Critic and the Comic

RAISING BAR OPEN!

THE BAR
A hop, skip and jump
from the Maribyrnong
River, Hop Nation
Brewing Co. has revealed
its new-look taproom.
Under the soaring
ceilings of a 19th-century
former factory, 17 taps
pour tank-fresh beers
and seltzers from
winemakers-turned-
brewers Sam Hambour
and Duncan Gibson. At
in-house kitchen Good
Pizza, ex-Figlia chef Alex
Addams Williams slings
slices crafted with
long-ferment dough.
HOP NATION
6/107-109 Whitehall Street
Footscray, Victoria
@hopnationbeer

quality wine. These wines are often

cool-climate varieties like German riesling.
But why do they work so well at the

Merrick’s beach? Simple: sweet versus salty! Picture

the scene – you return from the ocean,

SHOUT no doubt looking like the Bond model or

Adonis that you are, but you need to flush
Merrick Watts the salt water permeating your palate
with something juicy, cold and hyper-
on his favourite beach-day ritual.
refreshing – RS wine! The match is akin to
Wines and waves. There’s nothing more salt and vinegar chips. Tireless personal
Australian than taking the esky to the Rockford White Frontignac ($23.50); Rockford empirical research has shown me that it
Alicante Bouchet ($27); Rieslingfreak No.5
beach on a summer’s day, having a dip, just works. Some of my favourite beach
($28); Mac Forbes RS54 ($45)
rolling your lotion-covered body in the beauties are Rockford Frontignac,
sand like a human lamington and then expect a man like me to own during Rockford Alicante Bouchet, Rieslingfreak
chugging on a cold beer or pre-mix. But a midlife crisis. RS stands for ‘residual No.5 and Mac Forbes RS54 (54 is the
I’m here to offer a wine alternative. No, sugar’, and it’s the result of a winemaker grams of sugar per litre). They are sweet
not West Coast Cooler (although I pass no inhibiting the yeast conversion of some or off-dry, often presenting floral and
judgement). More fancy. In recent years, of the grapes’ natural sugars into alcohol citrus profiles, and low in alcohol. Grab
we’ve taken super-chilled bottles of wine during fermentation. The result of this halt a bottle, paper cups, a bag of ice and a
with us to beaches where alcohol is in fermentation is a wine higher in sugar frisbee you’ll use for four minutes before
permitted. But not just any wine – wine and naturally lower in alcohol, but still hitting an innocent bystander in the
with RS. No, that’s not a sports car you’d showing the acidity and flavours of a head, and enjoy this summer combo!

32 | FOLLOW US: @merrickwatts | @mikebennie101

 Mike’s pour
Mike Bennie
decodes your
Christmas
drinks to-do list.
The festive season comes with a lot of codified
drinking, from sparkling reds for breakfast
through to the one-hand-on-backyard-cricket-
bat drink and the wine-for-seafood selection. It
requires some dedication to make magic happen.
I’d start with that fizzy red. The breadth
available now should make just about everyone Spirit of the season
happy: from frothy pet nats and traditional Archie Rose Distilling Co. has unwrapped a festive edit of its
sparkling shiraz to my favourite – Lambrusco. Tailored Spirits. Build your own blend by balancing the malt
Beer, cider and seltzers are also ubiquitous with profiles in an Archie Rose single malt whisky; or say it with
the season, and the variety is phenomenal. Craft botanicals and customise a gin with a choice of 17 spices,
and microbreweries jostle for shelf space with fruits and native herbs. This spirited gift idea is finished with
a technicolour assortment of styles, from classic a personalised label, with an optional add-on of a bespoke
lagers to fruit-infused brews, traditional ciders tea towel by illustrator Food for Everyone. archierose.com.au
and increasingly great non-alcoholic versions.
With wine, it’s prudent to offer up a width of
styles. Ideally, though, the wines should reflect
OK, it’s summer
ON THE BAR CART

the season, with thirst-quenching aromatic whites,

dry and bright rosés and, for the adventurous, The next best thing to scoring a
skin-fermented whites (AKA ‘orange wines’). Try spot at Cantina OK!’s pint-sized
to stick with lighter reds, preferably ones that can Sydney bar is popping the top
take a chill. There’s a wealth of fresh reds now on on one of its margarita seltzers
somewhere sunny. The new Cantina
HEAPS NORMAL X YUMBO OK! Sparkling Strawberry Margarita
TOUGH STUFF SHANDY ($5) Seltzer is on shelves now, and it’s
A collab between non-alc
picnic ready. $26 for a four-pack,
brewer Heaps Normal and
Yumbo Soda Co, which makes drinkok.com.au
brilliant artisan sodas. This
tangy yet beery vivacious
zero-alc will be the ultimate
refreshment come warm days.

SHOBBROOK WINES
POOLSIDE SYRAH 2022
($42, BAROSSA VALLEY, SA)
The name says it all, really…
This is Barossa shiraz, but Think pink
impossibly light, crunchy and
vibrant. A few pay grades up South Australian craft distillers
from rosé, ideally consumed Spirito Santo Spirits chose grapefruit
cold, with a bucket of prawns.
over classic citrus to create Radical
TWO METRE TALL HUON Roza ($55) – a pretty pink limoncello.
DRY APPLE FARMHOUSE From the folk at the Barossa’s First
CIDER ($14, TAS)
Drop Wines, the brand’s range
Wild-fermented and made in
a traditional, pleasingly bitter, of apéritifs and digestifs channel
appley-but-sour and very serious Euro summer vibes.
refreshing style, this is the
spiritosantospirits.com
food-friendly apple cider
of your dreams.

SCAN FOR MORE FROM MIKE, OR GO TO: delicious.com.au/drinks

A fresh start
Need a little culture in your life? Ellie and Sam Studd sing the
praises of smooth and silky creme fraiche, and share an elegantly
simple recipe that’s perfect for the entertaining season.

I f you haven’t yet experienced the joys of creme fraiche, brace yourself, because you’re
in for a real treat. It’s a total game-changer in the kitchen. Creme fraiche is cream that
has been fermented with lactic acid bacteria that thickens the cream and gives it a
distinctive, slightly sharp – but not too sour – tang.
History indicates that creme fraiche (which, unsurprisingly, is French for ‘fresh cream’)
originated in the dairy-producing regions of France, such as Normandy, Alsace, Franche-
Comté and the northern Loire. Traditionally, fresh milk was left to settle overnight at cool
ambient temperatures, allowing the cream to rise to the top. The naturally occurring
lactose-fermenting bacteria worked to thicken and acidify the cream. However, these
days, creme fraiche is usually made in a far more controlled and industrialised way.
Cream has been viewed as a prized luxury item in many countries around the world, since ancient times. The very word ‘cream’
has long been associated with the ‘top’ or the ‘best’ (you’ve no doubt heard the phrases, ‘the cream of the crop’, and ‘crème de la
crème’). It’s the luscious, decadent quality of cream that elevates textures and flavours with delectable richness. Once you start
using creme fraiche, you may even find yourself including it in your vernacular when describing something ace.
We’re often asked whether you can substitute sour cream
for creme fraiche. And, yes, technically you can, but they’re not
the same thing, and so the end result won’t be quite the same.
Creme fraiche will be less tangy; it’s thicker and richer than sour
cream and won’t curdle if you boil it. This means it’s better
for sauces, soups and cooking in general. Creme fraiche also
contains more fat than sour cream, bumping up that luxe factor,
and we reckon it tastes a whole lot better.

HARISSA CREME FRAICHE WITH

SMOKED MUSSELS AND CRISPS
SERVES 8-10 (AS A STARTER)

1 small eschalot, finely chopped

Juice of 1/ 2 lemon
200g creme fraiche
2 tsp harissa paste
2 x 120g cans smoked mussels in oil, drained
1/ 2 tsp smoked paprika

PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER STYLING VIVIEN WALSH

1/4 bunch chives, cut into small batons

Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle

Sea salt crisps, to serve

Combine eschalot and lemon juice in a small bowl with

a pinch of salt flakes. Set aside.
Whisk the creme fraiche with the harissa until firm and well
combined. Transfer to a serving bowl, spreading to cover base
evenly. Top with mussels, eschalot mixture, paprika and chives,
then drizzle with a little oil, then serve with crisps alongside and
let your guests scoop up their own hors d’oeuvre.

FOR MORE RECIPE IDEAS USING AUSTRALIAN

& INTERNATIONAL CHEESE: delicious.com.au/recipes

38 | FOLLOW US: @thestuddsiblings

What is?
—Creme fraiche
TYPE: A thick cream soured
with a bacterial culture.
ORIGIN: France
YOU’LL LOVE… its rich, tangy
flavour and creamy, velvety
texture that can enrich your
sauces, soups and desserts
 “Here is a dish that melds
the BEST FLAVOURS
of summer into one
robust salad.”

Colour TOMATO & POMEGRANATE SALAD

SERVES 6

me happy... 950g mixed small or cherry tomatoes,

varying colours
All things bright and 2 tsp za’atar
beautiful come together 21/ 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil
in this sensational salad Seeds of 1 pomegranate
1/ 2 yellow capsicum, seeds removed,
from Yotam Ottolenghi,
very thinly sliced
which is perfect for 1/ 2 small red onion, very thinly sliced
summer entertaining. into rounds
1/ 3 cup loosely packed small fresh basil

leaves

H
ere is a dish that melds the 1/ 3 cup loosely packed small fresh mint

best flavours of summer into leaves

one robust salad. Yotam 1
1 2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
/

Ottolenghi calls for cherry tomatoes, 100g manouri (Greek semi-soft cheese)
but summer’s best tomatoes would or feta, broken into pieces
also be right at home among the feta,
mint and za’atar. Serve this salad Halve, slice or quarter the tomatoes so
alongside grilled meat, preferably in they are all roughly the same size, and
the backyard, and share with all your place them in a large mixing bowl.
favourite people. Mix za’atar with 1 tbs olive oil. Set aside.
To the bowl with tomatoes, add
Yotam Ottolenghi is chef-patron pomegranate seeds, sliced capsicum and
of the London-based Ottolenghi onion, herbs, lemon juice, remaining 11/2
delis and the Nopi and Rovi tbs oil and 1 tsp sea salt flakes. Gently mix
restaurants. He has published salad, then transfer to a large shallow
10 internationally best-selling bowl or serving platter, and dot with the
cookbooks – his latest is FLAVOUR, cheese. Drizzle za’atar mixture over the
published by Random House. salad and serve.

40 | FOLLOW ME: @ottolenghi | FOR MORE GREAT OTTOLENGHI RECIPES: delicious.co

 What’s trending
— Matt Preston on Christmas customs
We’ve all got our own way of doing Christmas, but when it comes to
dessert, our cover star might just become your new family tradition.

C hristmas is surely the most intense time when it comes to

bickering about food. Arguments erupt over how to cook the
turkey, whether the cheese board should be served before or after
SOUR CHERRY SORBET (SEE NOTES, OPPOSITE)
680g jar sour cherries in syrup
2 tsp caster sugar
the meal, and whether 3pm is too late to start a Christmas lunch. 1 tbs lemon juice, plus extra to serve, if desired
As the Christmas meal is one of the few culinary rituals we have 1/4 cup (60ml) aquafaba (see notes, opposite)

left, it’s no wonder people fight to preserve the version they hold 2 tbs whole black peppercorns
dearest, and questions that challenge the status quo can be met
with brutal responses. Do we need to have a turkey? How many Preheat oven to 150°C/130°C fan-forced. Draw a 20cm-diameter
brussels sprouts are enough? Do we need a traditional pudding? circle on a sheet of baking paper, then flip over so the outline is
For the record, my answers to these are: 1. No, a roast chicken on the underside. Use to line a baking tray.
is far easier to cook well. 2. Twenty a person, minimum. 3. Yes, For the gingerbread pavlova, combine the sugar, spices and
definitely, because otherwise it feels wrong having the brandy cornflour in a medium bowl. Place egg whites in a stand mixer fitted
butter or custard, and that’s a non-negotiable for any Christmas. with the whisk attachment. Whisk on low speed until frothy. Sprinkle
It is, however, fair to say that the Christmas pudding is on the over the cream of tartar, then increase speed to medium and whisk until
way out in Australia. Here, three desserts bestride the holiday very soft peaks form. Gradually add the sugar and spice mixture 1 tbs
season like a sugary triumvirate: cheesecake, pavlova and trifle. at a time, whisking until the sugar is dissolved before adding the next
Head to the delicious. website and you’ll find a dizzying array spoonful, while slowly increasing the speed to medium-high. Continue
of inspiration here, but if you ask me to pick one trending flavour, whisking meringue until it is dense, glossy and smooth, with no sugar
it would have to be gingerbread. My aim is to overthrow granules. (This isn’t a process to rush; you want all the sugar to be
gingerbread trifle as the No. 1 dessert this Christmas, and I think completely dissolved.) Add the vinegar and whisk until combined.
I’ve found a contender. Imagine all the warm spices of gingerbread, Using a large spoon, spread meringue onto prepared tray, using
but in a trendy brown sugar pavlova. Top this with slivered the traced circle as a guide. Create a well at the centre of the pavlova
almonds, a billowing layer of whipped creme fraiche and some (it’s great for filling when it’s time to serve).
diced ginger, and the only debate is which fruit to pair it with. Bake for 55 minutes, then turn off oven, leave the door closed and
I’ve gone with cherries, but peaches or figs would be equally ace. allow pavlova to cool in there overnight. Once cool, you can store
Just squeeze a little lemon over to add a touch of brightness pavlova in a moisture-free, airtight container for up to 2 days.
and to balance the massive sugar hit. Happy holidays indeed! For the sorbet, drain cherries, reserving their syrup. Place cherries
in a large zip-lock bag and freeze flat for 4 hours until firm. Whiz frozen
GINGERBREAD PAV WITH SOUR CHERRY SORBET cherries, sugar and lemon juice in a food processor until a snow-like
SERVES 12 consistency forms. Add aquafaba and whiz, scraping down side of
Begin this recipe at least a day ahead. bowl occasionally, until smooth. The liquid will aerate the mixture,

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY STYLING BERNI SMITHIES

turning it into a paler pink sorbet. Transfer to a small airtight container
11/ 2 cups (330g) caster sugar (a leftover takeaway one works perfectly), cover and freeze overnight.
1 tbs ground ginger Place reserved sour cherry syrup and peppercorns in a medium
1 tsp ground cinnamon saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to the boil. Cook for 10
1/ 2 tsp each ground allspice (or ground cloves), ground nutmeg minutes, swirling occasionally, or until mixture reduces to a thick syrup
and ground cardamom (you’ll need about 1/ 2 cup). Transfer to a heatproof jug and cool to room
1 tsp cornflour temperature, then cover and set aside overnight. Strain before serving.
6 large egg whites, at room temperature When ready to serve, in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment,
1/4 tsp cream of tartar whisk cream on medium-high speed until very soft peaks form.
1 tsp apple cider vinegar Add creme fraiche and whisk on medium speed until just combined.
300ml thickened cream Place pavlova on a serving platter and load centre with whipped
250g creme fraiche cream. (Don’t worry when it collapses into the crust; it’s meant to!)
300g fresh cherries, some left whole, the rest pitted and halved Scatter with fresh cherries and ginger. Add a few scoops of sorbet
Chopped uncrystallised ginger and pink peppercorns, crushed and drizzle with pepper syrup. Sprinkle with crushed pink peppercorns
using a mortar and pestle, to serve and serve immediately with extra scoops of sorbet alongside.

42 | FOLLOW ME: @mattscravat | FOR MORE RECIPES FROM MATT PRESTON: delicious.com.au/recipes
Masterclass _ with the Country Women’s Association of NSW

CWA Christmas Cake

We share a classic boiled fruit cake recipe, and get some inside tips on how to
impress the judges at a Country Women’s Association Cookery Competition.

N o one knows classic bakes quite like the legendary

ladies of the Country Women’s Association (CWA).
So when we were in need of the perfect boiled fruit cake
recipe for our Christmas issue, we knew just where to turn.
“Our recipes are handed down from our mothers and
grandmothers; even great-grandmothers,” says Diana
Whitton, a member of the Manly branch of the CWA of
NSW, who shared the original recipe, at left. “We also
have a collection of cookbooks that have been published.”
When it comes to CWA cookery competitions, the judging
criteria for boiled fruit cakes is a lot tougher than you might
expect, and looks at much more than just flavour and texture.
“There needs to be an even distribution of fruit,” Whitton
warns. “And you can never have cake rack marks on your
cake. You also can’t have any indentations from baking
paper; it must be perfectly smooth. And if you put a skewer
in too many times, you’re going to end up with holes.”
Think you’re up to the task? Try our version of a classic
Christmas fruit cake below. For more on the CWA, head
to cwaa.org.au to find your state or territory association.

CHRISTMAS CAKE
SERVES 16 Preheat oven to 180°C/160°C fan-forced. Bake for 65 minutes or until cooked
Grease base and side of a 22cm x 8cm when a skewer inserted in centre comes

PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY STYLING EMMA KNOWLES STORY ALISON TURNER

225g unsalted butter, at room deep round cake pan and line with out with a few crumbs. While the cake is
temperature, chopped baking paper, extending paper 3cm still warm, brush the extra brandy evenly
1 cup (250g) firmly packed dark above edge of pan. over the warm cake, making sure it
brown sugar Place butter, sugar, dried fruit, nuts, reaches the edges (this helps to preserve
11/ 2 cups (240g) sultanas brandy and spices in a large saucepan the cake). Set pan on a wire rack and
11/ 2 cups (255g) raisins over medium heat. Bring slowly to a allow the cake to cool completely in
1 cup (190g) chopped dried figs simmer, stirring constantly until sugar pan, then brush top with warmed
1 cup (250g) chopped red glacé cherries dissolves, then simmer for 3 minutes, marmalade, if desired, to glaze.
1/ 2 cup (85g) mixed peel stirring occasionally. Transfer mixture to When ready to serve, you can wrap
3/4 cup (120g) whole blanched almonds, a large heatproof bowl and set aside at cake with a festive ribbon and glaze top
plus 1/ 3 cup (55g) extra, to decorate room temperature for 30 minutes to cool. with more warmed marmalade, if desired.
11/4 cups (310ml) brandy, plus 1/4 cup Meanwhile, sift flours, bicarb and a NOTES: Cake can be made up to 3
(60ml) extra to brush pinch of fine salt into a large bowl. Whisk months in advance. Wrap tightly in plastic
3 tsp mixed spice eggs in a medium jug until well combined. wrap, then in foil, and place in a sealed
1/ 2 tsp each ground cinnamon Add fruit mixture to the flour mixture container in a cool and dry place. Once
and ground ginger and mix until almost combined then add sliced, wrap in plastic wrap and store
1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg the egg and stir until well combined. in the fridge for up to 1 month. Slices of
170g each self-raising flour and plain flour Spoon batter into prepared pan and cake can also be frozen, individually
1 tsp bicarb soda level surface with a spatula. Use the extra wrapped, for up to 1 month. Thaw on
4 large eggs, at room temperature whole blanched almonds to decorate top, your benchtop, out of direct sunlight.
Marmalade, warmed, to brush (optional) lightly pressing into surface of batter.

44 delicious.com.au
“Our recipes are handed down
from our MOTHERS AND
GRANDMOTHERS;
even great-grandmothers.”
 All wrapped up
Adelaide | Melbourne | Sydney | Canberra
haighschocolates.com.au
 PHOTOGRAPHY ALAN JENSEN STYLINGY EMMA KNOWLES

delicious.com.au 47
Tom Gorringe and
Matt Moran at Aria

H
at home – but I think she doesn’t give herself
enough credit for how good she is,” he laughs.
Passionfruit spritz (p 53)
Several family recipes pepper Gorringe’s ideal
festive menu; legacies of a foodie upbringing. RECIPE NOTE: Have all
And while the white tablecloths and billion-dollar your bottles chilled in the
views of Aria might seem miles away from the fridge for several hours
before making the punch.
relaxed grazing style of his family Christmases, STYLE NOTE: Chairs
for Gorringe, the principles remain the same. from GlobeWest
“From cooking at home and having people in
your house to having people in the restaurant –
you want people to feel warm, welcomed and
cared for,” he says. “It’s a really nice thing to cook
for someone. It shows how much you care for
them and how much effort you’re willing to put in.
We really want our guests to feel like that as well.”
It’s this care that inspired Matt Moran to install
Gorringe at his Circular Quay flagship in 2021.
“I’d been watching Tom’s career prior to him
starting as Aria’s head chef,” Moran says. “We
both share the same passion – championing the
very best Australian produce. Aria has an amazing
team, and there is no one I trust more than Tom
to lead the kitchen and continue Aria’s 24-year
legacy. The Tom story hasn’t finished yet; he
is going to go on and do amazing things.”
Of his time at Aria, Gorringe adds: “It was
pretty daunting at first, to be fair. There’s a lot of
history, and Aria has a big reputation to uphold.
“But I really love Matt’s food philosophy.
I think we’re really aligned in terms of wanting
to support Australian farmers and producers,
and to let the seasons lead the menu.”

50 | FOLLOW US: @ariarestaurant

 “I first tried chicken liver pâté at my
Nan and Pop’s Christmas party as
a kid. I wasn’t aware what it was until
after I’d eaten it. I loved the RICH
FLAVOUR and smooth texture.”
 “This is such a SIMPLE BUT
DELICIOUS recipe, perfect for
using up leftover prawns or to take
to the beach as a light lunch.”
 ENTERTAINING.

TIGER PRAWN MILK BUNS PASSIONFRUIT SPRITZ Preheat a large barbecue with a hood
SERVES 8 MAKES APPROX 3.5L to medium-high (200°C convection).
“A boozy punch for a hot summer’s Using a small sharp knife, cut through
8 milk buns day, with loads of floral sweetness and ham rind about 8cm from shank. To
2 avocados, sliced acidity courtesy of the passionfruit.” remove rind from ham, start at opposite
1 Lebanese cucumber, sliced end to shank and run thumb under rind to
1 baby gem lettuce, leaves separated 16 passionfruit separate from fat. Peel back and remove
1.4kg cooked tiger prawns, peeled, 4 cups (1L) each ginger ale and rind. Wrap shank end in foil. Carefully
deveined pineapple juice remove the skin, leaving a nice layer of fat
750ml bottle each Australian sparkling behind. Score fat in parallel lines, about
MARIE ROSE SAUCE wine and white rum 2mm deep and 1.5cm apart. Double-line
150g Kewpie mayonnaise 100ml each freshly squeezed lemon a large flameproof baking tray with raised
100g tomato sauce and lime juice sides with foil, and place ham in tray.
1 tbs each Worcestershire sauce and 1/ 2 bunch mint, leaves picked Transfer half the glaze to a medium
Frank’s RedHot sauce (or hot sauce Ice cubes, to serve bowl, reserving remaining half to serve.
of your choice) Use a fork to roughly mash the nectarines.
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime Halve the passionfruit and scoop the pulp Spoon half over the prepared ham, using
into a large punch bowl. Add remaining the fork to mash all over the surface.
For the sauce, place all ingredients in a ingredients and mix well. Serve. Barbecue ham with hood closed for
medium bowl and season with salt flakes 30 minutes. Remove ham and carefully
and freshly ground black pepper (don’t be BARBECUED HAM WITH mash the remaining mashed glaze all
afraid to be generous with the pepper). NECTARINE GLAZE over the surface. Barbecue with hood
Mix thoroughly, then store in an airtight SERVES 8 closed for 30 minutes or until ham is
container in the fridge (see note). “A great alternative to a traditional baked caramelised and heated through.
Cut milk buns in half and toast cut-side ham, with the nectarine bringing sweetness Remove ham from barbecue and rest,
down in a large frypan for 1-2 minutes and acidity to pair with the rich smoky loosely tented with foil, for 15 minutes
until golden. Place sliced avocado on the ham.” Begin this recipe a day ahead. You’ll before carving. Discard foil on shank and
base, followed by the cucumber. Place need a barbecue with a hood, or see notes. wrap shank in baking paper, using kitchen
2-3 crunchy lettuce leaves onto each bun string to attach and bay leaves to decorate.
and add a generous number of prawns. 5-8kg whole leg ham on the bone Serve ham warm with the reserved
Finish with lashings of the Marie Rose (see notes) nectarine glaze served alongside.
sauce – as much as you like. Place the Bay leaves, to decorate NOTES: You can make the glaze up
top bun on top, serve and enjoy. to 5 days ahead. Store in a container in
NOTE: The sauce makes 11/4 cups. NECTARINE GLAZE the fridge. It will work with a smaller
You can make it up to 1 week ahead. 1kg yellow nectarines, stones removed, ham, a piece of ham leg or even
Store any leftover sauce in a jar in the roughly chopped thick-cut ham steaks. You can ask your
fridge for up to 5 days. 200ml sherry vinegar butcher to remove the skin on the
200g brown sugar ham if you’re pressed for time or
100g runny honey don’t feel confident doing this step.
80g Dijon mustard If you have any leftover glaze, this
is great spread over sandwiches or
To make the glaze, place all ingredients served with leftover cold ham. You
in a medium saucepan with 200ml water can also mix 1 tbs through 1 cup
and bring to a simmer over medium heat, of gravy to give it a sweet and
stirring constantly until sugar dissolves. sour lift. Don’t have a hooded
Reduce heat to very low and cook for barbecue? Preheat oven to
2 hours, stirring often to prevent fruit 200°C/180°C fan-forced and
from sticking, until the nectarines are roast ham for the same time
very soft and the liquid has thickened. as instructed in recipe.
Transfer to a large heatproof jug and
cool to room temperature, then cover
and chill for at least 4 hours, preferably
overnight, until thickened (see notes).
1/

21/ 2
 “Moreton Bay bugs are one of
my favourite shellfish. The
SWEETNESS of the tails pairs
beautifully with the UMAMI
 Mango, passionfruit & white
“Nothing says AUSSIE SUMMER quite chocolate trifle
like fresh mangoes, and trifle is such RECIPE NOTE: You can
a crowd-pleasing Christmas classic – make the mousse, curd, gel,
syrup and puree up to
the two together combine to make a 5 days in advance. Store
quintessential Aussie Christmas dessert.” individually in containers
in the fridge. You can make
the sponge the day before
assembling. Once cool,
wrap in plastic wrap and
store in the fridge.
Christmas
IN AVALON
with the Emersons

MERCHANDISING EMMALY STEWART

RECIPES Lauren
& Andy Emerson
PHOTOGRAPHY Mark Roper
FOOD STYLING Vivien Walsh
STORY Corinne Parkes
 Entertaining 101
We would describe our entertaining
style as…
“Generous, colourful and loud.”
A good host always…
“Makes sure each glass is always full and
food is plentiful.”
A good host never…
“Under-caters. We like people to roll out of
our house!”
The ideal guest always…
“Brings great wine.”
The best cook in the house is…
“Andy. We can’t get him out of the kitchen;
it’s his happy place. Freda also likes to
sous-chef alongside. Like father like
daughter – that girl was born to host.”
Our go-to Christmas playlist is…
“The day always starts with carols (the kids
can’t get enough of them), then progresses
into anything from hip hop to electronica –
we love it all! Music always plays a big role in
entertaining at our house.”
The sign of a successful Christmas
lunch is…
“A dirty tablecloth, family members napping
on the sofa and lots of empty glassware.”

S ummertime entertaining is a specialty for the Emersons. The young

family is uniquely qualified to put on a spectacular spread, with Lauren
(co-owner of Walter G textiles) and her husband Andy (co-founder of
+ W I N E PA R I N G S , PAG E 5

Avalon Beach wine bars Bar Elvina and Randy’s Wine) both bringing Aussie vermouth
highball
their wealth of food and design expertise to the table. (p 64)
“When we entertain, it’s almost always an outdoor long lunch involving
barbecued seafood – freshly caught when the fishing gods are kind,”
Lauren says. “We like to break out all the fancy platters, glassware and
textiles. Nothing too stuffy or serious. We generally think of a signature
dish, then build the rest of the menu around flavours we crave. We’re lucky
to have many great suppliers available through Andy’s restaurant, so
we stock up just before Christmas and avoid the supermarkets.”
Then, of course, there’s the tableware. “I’d like to say that the table is all
my doing, but Freda (the Emersons’ daughter) rivals me with her table-setting
skills!” Lauren says. “We generally start with a festive block-printed
tablecloth, combined with some contrasting coloured napkins to make the
table pop. From there, we layer up with rattan placemats, coasters and
coloured glassware. Ceramics also play a huge part – all sorts of shapes and
sizes, generally hand-painted and with a rustic feel. I’ve been collecting these
for years, and love to get them all out at any opportunity. It’s such a special
thing for us to do as a family, and I look forward to it every year. For me,
it’s just as special as decorating the Christmas tree together.”

| FOLLOW US: @barelvina @randyswine_ @waltergtextiles

 AT HOME WITH...

Roasted prawns with

yuzu and kosho butter
(p 64)

Foglia ceramic oval

serving platter from
alexandtrahanas.com

STYLE NOTES: Lauren uses her Walter G

range throughout: outdoor seat cushions
in various prints from walter-g.com.au
 AT HOME WITH...

then whisk until caramel dissolves. Add

currants and a pinch of salt flakes. Stir to
combine, then remove from heat. Stand
for 5 minutes for fruit to soak.
Meanwhile, heat a barbecue or chargrill
on high. Grill broccolini for 5 minutes
until lightly charred.
GRILLED BROCCOLINI WITH Spread macadamia cream over a serving
MACADAMIA CREAM AND plate. Arrange broccolini on plate and spoon
SWEET & SOUR CURRANTS over currants and sauce.
SERVES 8 (AS A SIDE)
Begin this recipe a day ahead. TOMATO SALAD WITH CRISPY
CAPERS AND CROUTONS
4 bunches broccolini SERVES 8 (AS A SIDE)
100g caster sugar
100ml apple cider vinegar 750kg ripe mixed tomatoes, sliced
100g currants 1/ 3 cup (80ml) balsamic vinegar
1/ 2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil

MACADAMIA CREAM 1/4 cup (50g) drained capers

12 / 3 cups (250g) macadamias 1/ 2 stale loaf sourdough, torn into

Juice of 1/ 2 lemon 50-cent-size pieces

2 tbs extra virgin olive oil 1/4 tsp chilli flakes

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

For the macadamia cream, soak nuts in 2 cups basil leaves
4 cups (1L) water overnight. Drain, reserving
soaking liquid. Transfer nuts to a blender Place tomatoes in a large bowl with vinegar.
with 3/4 cup (180ml) reserved soaking liquid, Season generously with salt flakes. Set aside.
juice and oil. Season and whiz until smooth, Heat 1/ 3 cup (80ml) oil in a large frypan over
scraping down side of bowl and adding a high heat. Cook capers for 1-2 minutes or until
little more reserved soaking liquid if needed. crunchy. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a
Blanch broccolini, in batches, in a large plate lined with paper towel and reserve pan.
saucepan of boiling salted water for 1-2 Heat same pan over medium heat and add
minutes. Transfer to a large bowl of iced bread. Toss to coat in oil and cook, tossing
water to cool. Drain. Pat dry with paper towel. occasionally, for 6-7 minutes or until golden
Place in a bowl with 1 tbs oil. Toss to coat. and crunchy. Season with chilli, salt flakes
Place sugar in a medium saucepan with and freshly ground black pepper, then add to
1 tbs water and stir to wet the sugar. Cook, tomatoes along with sliced onion and remaining
stirring constantly, over low heat until sugar 2 tbs oil, and toss to combine. Stand for
dissolves. Increase heat to high and cook, 10 minutes for bread to soften slightly.
without stirring, until a golden caramel. Stir the basil through salad and serve
Slowly pour in vinegar (be careful of steam), sprinkled with crispy capers.

62 delicious.com.au
 AT HOME WITH...

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delicious.com.au 65
 Pavlova wreath with
mango cream and
passionfruit mint syrup

1/4

1/ 2

11/ 2

66 delicious.com.au
HOME WITH...
FRUTTI
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1/4

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S
1/4

3/4

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“Quite possibly our favourite
parsnip recipe ever. This
pairs so well with duck but
would be equally at home
next to A GOOD STEAK.”

Parsnip, orange &

vadouvan gratin
“In France, rillettes have regional
variances with a wide range of
ingredients and textures. Some have
a fine texture; others are coarser,
and somewhat rustic. Our preference
is A MIXTURE OF BOTH.”
86 delicious.com.au
 “There’s nothing more celebratory
than a suckling pig cooked outside,
spit-roast style. You can create a similar
version at home using smoking wood
chips in the oven to mimic an open fire.
It’s not only a centerpiece on the
Christmas table but something that
brings everyone together – from fighting
for crispy bits of crackle to figuring out
who gets to take the leftovers home.
It’s essential at our Christmas
gatherings. Sretan Božic!”
-
 “If there’s one thing that
my family takes
as seriously as the food
come Christmas, it’s the
drinks. A pick-and-mix of
chilled bottles resting on
ice, and a large punch bowl
– preferably BRIMMING
with
and fruits – keeps the
good times flowing.”
-
 Jansson’s frestelse
(Jansson’s temptation)

“For my family, it’s not Christmas

without a bubbling dish of Jansson’s
on the table! Studded with Swedish
ansjovis or pickled herring (trust me,
they’re good) this creamy potato bake
is decadent and comforting, and
tastes EVEN BETTER the next
day… If you’re lucky enough to
have any leftovers.”
- Corinne Parkes, Assistant Editor
 POTLUCK XMAS.

Corinne Parkes’ they keep all their starch, as it helps Monika Hecimovic’s
JANSSON'S FRESTELSE to thicken the sauce while baking. CROATIAN-STYLE SUCKLING PIG
(JANSSON’S TEMPTATION) Partially bake potatoes for 30 minutes SERVES 12
SERVES 12 (AS A SIDE) (less if potato slices are thinner) or until Begin this recipe at least 4 hours ahead.
You’ll need two 22cm x 28cm, 6cm-deep just tender, turning once during cooking.
(8-cup capacity) oval baking dishes. Meanwhile, melt butter in a large 5kg whole suckling pig (see note)
saucepan over medium heat. Add 2 tbs fine salt, to season
3kg sebago potatoes, skins scrubbed onion and 3 tsp salt flakes and cook, 300g hickory smoking wood chips
125g unsalted butter, chopped stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes or until (see note)
3 (600g total) large white onions, softened and translucent but not coloured. 1 cup (250ml) apple cider vinegar,
thinly sliced Remove potato from oven and spoon to brush
900ml each milk and thickened cream onion mixture evenly over both, then toss Warm focaccia, ajvar (red capsicum
2 x 110g tins Swedish ansjovis, pickled gently to combine. Divide the milk and and eggplant relish) and lemon
matjes herring (such as Viking brand), cream between two large jugs and season wedges, to serve
or whole sprats in brine (such as Fish with salt flakes and white pepper. Stir to
4 Ever, see notes) combine, then pour evenly over potato Preheat oven to 220°C/200°C fan-forced.
1 cup (100g) dried breadcrumbs and onion and stir to combine, being Line a large oven tray that fits inside your
Finely chopped chives, to sprinkle careful to not break up potato. Divide the oven with a double piece of baking paper.
fish between both dishes, gently pressing Place the pig on the prepared tray and
Preheat oven to 200°C/180°C fan-forced. down into the potato mixture, making liberally rub all over the skin with the salt.
Peel the potatoes and cut into sure to evenly disperse throughout. If you have a 900mm-wide oven, arrange
French-fry-sized pieces (for this dish we Sprinkle tops evenly with breadcrumbs. pig so it's laying almost flat across the
went with 8mm-thick pieces, but for my Place a large baking tray on the lowest cavity section, with the head sitting
own I like to use a mandoline to slice the shelf in the oven to catch any overflowing upright and the back legs tucked in
potatoes into much skinnier matchsticks) milk mixture when baking, then bake underneath. If you have a 600mm-wide
and spread evenly across two 22cm x potato for 1 hour 30 minutes or until oven, lay pig on one side, slightly curved,
28cm, 6cm-deep (8-cup capacity) oval potatoes are very tender and the tops to fit (you'll need to turn pig over halfway
baking dishes. Do not peel or soak are golden. Remove and stand for during roasting time to get an even
your potatoes in water ahead 10 minutes before transferring straight browning on skin).
of time; it’s important to the table to serve. Place wood chips in a medium cast-iron
NOTE: You can buy traditional pan, spreading evenly to cover base of
Swedish ansjovis, pickled matjes pan. Cook, covered, over high heat on your
herring and sprats in brine online stove top until just beginning to smoke.
or from specialty grocers (and Remove cover, then immediately transfer
even IKEA!). Baking the potatoes pan to lowest shelf in oven. Place pig on
across two dishes means the tray on shelf directly above wood chips.
potatoes will cook faster and Roast for 30 minutes, then reduce oven
more evenly. It also helps if you to 160°C/140°C fan-forced and slow-roast
have a smaller oven, and for easy for 3 hours, basting skin liberally with
transport. The potatoes can be vinegar every 30 minutes, or until flesh is
baked the day before serving very tender and skin has a deep golden
and cooled to room temperature smoky colour, and feels crisp all over
before topping each dish with a when lightly touched. If your wood chips
piece of baking paper and then stop smoking during cooking, light a few
wrapping tightly with plastic pieces to ignite, blowing out any flame to
wrap. Keep chilled until needed, restart the smoking process.
then bring to room temperature Remove pig from oven and rest on tray
before gently reheating, for 10 minutes before transferring to table.
uncovered, in an oven preheated Serve hot with warm focaccia, ajvar
to 180°C/160°C fan-forced. and lemon wedges alongside.
NOTE: You can purchase whole
suckling pigs either fresh or frozen. If
using a frozen one, allow up to 2 days
defrosting time in your fridge to thaw

delicious.com.au 91
 POTLUCK XMAS.

“Everyone loves a good

coleslaw, and the beauty of
this one is that it stays
SUPER CRISPY even after
being tossed in the dressing,
Coleslaw with pickled which also has a lovely
pepperberry cherries
pepperberry kick to it!”
- Tracey Pattison, Food Editor

Tracey Pattison’s
COLESLAW WITH PICKLED sliced into rounds (we used
PEPPERBERRY CHERRIES a mandoline) shallot and dill in a very large bowl and
SERVES 12 (AS A SIDE] 1/ 2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil toss well to combine. Cover surface
1/ 3 cup (80ml) red wine vinegar directly with dampened paper towels,
1.2kg whole small red cabbage, very 2 tsp each fine salt, white sugar and then tightly cover with plastic wrap.
finely shredded (we used a mandoline) ground pepperberry Chill for at least 1 hour or up to 1 day.
450g whole baby wombok, thinly sliced Just before serving, toss pickled
lengthways For the pickled cherries, place all cherries through the crisp, cold cabbage
4 long green shallots, cut into thin strips ingredients in a large bowl and stir to mixture until well combined and evenly
1 bunch dill, stems finely chopped, combine. Cover with a tea towel and coated in pickling juice. Serve.
leaves picked stand at room temperature for 1 hour, NOTE: You can prepare the pickled
stirring occasionally, or until onions have cherries up to 1 day in advance. After
PICKLED CHERRIES softened and cherries have released a lot their 1-hour pickling time, cover, then
500g fresh cherries, pitted, halved of their juice (see note). chill until required. Bring to room
2 (400g total) red onions, very thinly Meanwhile, place cabbage, wombok, temperature before using.

delicious.com.au 93
“Every year, everyone
gathers around and I set the
CHRISTMAS PUDDING
on fire - it’s something my
grandmother used to do
that I now do. I also always
take leftovers from lunch
to friends that night.”
- John Hannan, Digital Director

Christmas pudding (p 92)

Mark Mariano’s form, scraping side of bowl occasionally.

FILIPINO MANGO FLOAT Place 1 of the sliced mangoes in an airtight
SERVES 12 container, chill and reserve for serving.
Begin this recipe a day ahead. You’ll need To assemble, place 1 biscuit in the base of
12 small serving glasses or jars. each glass or jar. Top each with a few slices
of mango, then 2-3 tbs of the cream mixture.
300ml thickened cream Repeat layers once more. Cover and
395g can sweetened condensed milk refrigerate overnight.
2 x 355g packets McVities Digestives The next day, top each with the reserved
Biscuits mango slices and crumble over remaining
4 (1.5kg total) mango, peeled, flesh biscuits. Serve.
thinly sliced NOTE: You can also layer this dessert in
a large baking dish. This dessert will keep
Place cream and condensed milk in a covered in the fridge for up to 4 days.
stand mixer fitted with the whisk
attachment and whisk until firm peaks
POTLUCK XMAS.
 PHOTOGRAPHY Armelle Habib

In his new book, Rumi: Food of Middle Eastern Appearance, chef

Joseph Abboud shares the authentically appetising recipes that
have made his iconic Melbourne restaurant such an enduring success.

96 delicious.com.au
 Fried cauliflower with
caramelised onion, currants
and pine nuts

RECIPE NOTE: “You can

use chickpea flour (besan)
for dusting for a gluten-free
result. If you prefer to
steam the cauliflower, be
sure to sprinkle with lots
of salt before it goes into
the steamer. The onions
and the boiling of the
cauliflower can be done
a few days in advance. Be
sure to warm the onion mix
slightly before using it.”

“If you make this dish correctly, you’ll

be asking yourself if you’ve burnt it. It’s
okay. My training in modern European
kitchens, where everything had to be
golden brown, had me second-guessing,
too. It just doesn’t taste the same if it’s
golden brown. It’s that dark bittersweet
flavour that transforms cauliflower.
This dish has been on the menu
at Rumi since the day we opened.”
 Fish kebabs with Caspian
olive & walnut sauce

RECIPE NOTE: “Advieh is

Iran’s version of India’s
garam masala or Morocco’s
ras el hanout. It’s a spice
mix that differs from place
to place, depending on the
use and region.”

"You can use any firm-fleshed, chunky white

fish for these kebabs, but my first choice
would be Murray cod. It’s been an iconic
Australian fish for a long time, but only in
recent years has the farmed variety given
it a more regular spot at the table. Its fat
content and structure hold up particularly
well on the barbecue, and its sustainability
credentials are championed by its new
farmers. I’ve paired it here with an olive
and walnut sauce, which has its origins
in the mountainous region of northern Iran
on the southern coast of the Caspian Sea."

102 delicious.com.au
 Standing rib roast beef with
Nanna’s gravy (p 108)

RECIPE NOTE: “You can

get your butcher to prepare
and tie your beef, and ask
them to leave the outer cap
on – this is where the fat
and flavour is.”

B ROAS
RI T
NDING
A
ST

ADRIAN RICHARDSON
“Standing rib has everything: a thick layer
of creamy fat that becomes crisp and golden,
marbling through the meat and adding flavour;
and rib bones that keep the meat moist
and juicy (and are great to chew on). This
magnificent roast should be served with all the
trimmings, and gravy made with the pan juices.”

FOLLOW ME: @chef_adrian_richardson

104 delicious.com.au
 Turkey breast roulade with
cranberry stuffing (p 109)

ADE
UL
O
RKEY R
TU

DANIELLE ALVAREZ
“Sometimes, a whole turkey can just be too
much. If you’re cooking for a smaller group,
this recipe is perfect, and its no less festive or
impressive. Turkey breast, which can usually
be quite dry on a whole bird, is cooked to
juicy perfection when roasted separately. The
stuffing also helps to retain moisture, and adds
the flavours of cranberries, sage and thyme.”

FOLLOW ME: @daniellemariealvarez

 COLLAB.

M
A
ZED H

Cumquat-glazed ham with

pickled cumquats and salad
LA

(p 115)
G

RECIPE NOTE: “This

glaze will work with a
smaller ham, a piece of
ham leg or even thick-cut
LAUREN MATHERS ham steaks. You can make
“We have the most lovely cumquat the glaze up to 1 week in
tree at my mum’s place. They’re in advance. Store in a
container in the fridge.
abundance, so we always do something
The pickled cumquats will
with them at Christmas. The cumquat glaze keep unopened in the fridge
is inspired by a recipe from my favourite for up to 3 weeks. Once
cookbook, Stephanie Alexander’s open, eat within the week.”
The Cook’s Companion.”

FOLLOW ME: @bundarra_farm

110 delicious.com.au
 Sweet potato & lentil
nut roast RIGHT: Vegan
ragu pasta

Filipino roasted pork belly

with cherry palapa (p 114)
LEFT: Lechon paksiw
(Filipino pork stew – p 114)
 B E L LY
K
R FILIPINO ROASTED PORK

ROAST
While pork roasts, for the dressing, place
AST PO

BELLY WITH CHERRY PALAPA all ingredients in a medium saucepan over

SERVES 8 medium-high heat and bring to the boil,
Begin this recipe a day ahead. stirring constantly, until sugar dissolves. Boil
RO

for 10 minutes or until reduced and syrupy

1 (2.5kg) large slab pork belly, skin on (about 1/2 cup). Transfer to a heatproof jug
and cool to room temperature.
SPICE PASTE For the cherry palapa, mix all ingredients
ROSS MAGNAYE 9 garlic cloves in a large bowl with the dressing.
“I chose this dish because it’s a play on 30g piece fresh ginger, peeled To serve, chop pork into large chunks
a Serai dish, but with a lovely Christmas 1 stick lemongrass, white part only, and arrange on a serving plate. Drizzle with
twist. We’re replacing pineapple with thinly sliced reserved meat juices, then spoon over some
beautiful summer cherries to give it an 100ml olive oil cherry palapa, serving remaining alongside.
amazing fresh kick. And nothing is better 7 makrut lime leaves, very thinly sliced NOTES: You can make the paste and
than a lechon paksiw when you’re 1 small bunch coriander, roots well dressing the day before. Refrigerate and
hungover after Christmas Day. It’s washed and chopped (use 10cm bring dressing to room temperature before
warm, hearty and absolutely delicious!” stems, reserve leaves for the palapa) adding to the cherries. The palapa makes a
1 tsp turmeric powder generous amount. It will keep in the fridge
FOLLOW ME: @serai.melbourne for up to 10 days. It’s amazing served with
DRESSING strong cheeses or as a relish with cold meat.
1 cup (250ml) light soy sauce
100ml coconut vinegar (from Asian LECHON PAKSIW

POST
grocers) (FILIPINO PORK STEW)
3
1 /4 tbs caster sugar SERVES 4-6

CHERRY PALAPA 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil

1kg fresh cherries, pitted, chopped 1 large onion, chopped
1 large eschalot, finely chopped 9 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 small red chillies, finely chopped 1kg leftover roast pork, cut into
2 cups mixed fresh herb leaves (we used 3cm chunks
Vietnamese mint, mint and coriander) 300ml white wine vinegar
1 stick lemongrass, white part only, 1 cup (250ml) Mang Tomas liver sauce
finely chopped (see notes)
4 makrut lime leaves, very thinly sliced 4 fresh bay leaves
Garlic rice (see notes), sliced long green
Poke the skin of the pork belly all over with shallots and fried eggs, to serve
a metal skewer and sprinkle generously
with fine salt, rubbing it into the skin. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-
Refrigerate, uncovered, skin-side up, high heat. Cook onion and garlic for
for at least 10 hours, or overnight. 2 minutes, stirring occasionally, until
For the spice paste, place all ingredients softened, then add roast pork and
in a small food processor and whiz until cook, stirring, for 1 minute to coat.
smooth. Rub the bottom of the pork belly Add vinegar, Mang Tomas, bay leaves
only with spice paste until covered (you want and enough water (about 1/2 cup) until pork
the skin to be free of spice paste so it crisps is coated in sauce. Season generously with
up), then arrange skin-side up on a large freshly ground black pepper. Stir well then
baking tray lined with baking paper and check seasoning; you’re looking for salty,
set aside to bring to room temperature. sweet and sour. Reduce heat to medium-
Preheat oven to 200°C/180°C fan-forced. low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for
Roast for 45 minutes, then increase oven 30 minutes or until pork is super tender.
to 250°C/230°C fan-forced and roast for Serve with garlic rice, shallot and fried egg.
20-25 minutes or until skin is super crispy NOTES: Mang Tomas is a sweet and
and pork is cooked. Remove and set aside tangy Filipino pork liver sauce from specialty
on tray to rest, reserving meat juices. Filipino grocers. Fried garlic rice is another

114 delicious.com.au
 COLLAB.

Filipino classic: simply fry thinly sliced garlic dissolves. Add cumquat, bring to a simmer, BATTER
in oil in a large frypan, then set the crispy then cook for 2 minutes. Pour into a 1L 1 cup (165g) buckwheat flour
garlic aside and stir-fry leftover cooked rice sterilised jar. Close lid and set aside to cool. 1 egg, separated
in the fragrant oil. To serve, toss the crispy Chill for at least 24 hours before serving.
garlic through the rice and season to taste. To make the glaze, place all ingredients To make the batter, mix the flour and
in a medium saucepan and bring to the 1/ 2 tsp salt flakes in a large bowl. Whisk
ROAST

CUMQUAT-GLAZED HAM WITH boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat egg yolk with 2 cups (500ml) water in a
PICKLED CUMQUATS AND SALAD to medium and gently boil for 35 minutes, measuring jug and slowly whisk into flour
SERVES 12 (WITH LEFTOVERS) stirring occasionally, or until cumquats mixture until smooth and combined. Whisk
Pickled cumquats need to be made are very soft and liquid has thickened. egg white in a medium bowl until soft
at least 24 hours before. Preheat oven to 200°C/180°C fan-forced. peaks form, then slowly stir into flour
Using a small sharp knife, cut through mixture until combined. Cover with
5-8kg whole Bundarra leg ham on the ham rind about 8cm from shank (see notes). a tea towel and stand for 30 minutes.
bone To remove rind from ham, start at opposite Heat a large non-stick frypan over
end to shank and run thumb under rind to medium-high heat. Add 10g butter
PICKLED CUMQUATS separate from fat. Peel back and remove and the eggs and cook for 3-4 minutes
500g cumquats, halved, seeds discarded rind. Wrap shank end in foil. Use the tip of until white is set and yolk is still runny.
11/ 2 cups (375ml) apple cider vinegar a small sharp knife to lightly score fat layer Transfer to a plate. Wipe pan clean.
1/ 2 cup (110g) caster sugar of ham into 3cm-wide diamonds, being Give the batter a good stir. Heat 10g
10 peppercorns careful not to cut all the way through. Place butter in the same pan over medium heat.
1 cinnamon quill ham on a large roasting tray. Generously When foaming, pour 1/ 2 cup (125ml) batter
2 whole star anise spoon over half the glaze, pressing down into the pan and quickly swirl pan around
4 whole cloves to adhere. Bake for 1 hour, spooning over so batter coats the pan thinly and evenly.
remaining glaze after 30 minutes, or until Cook galette for about 4 minutes until the
CUMQUAT GLAZE golden and caramelised. Transfer ham to edges start to peel and you can see them
500g cumquats, quartered, seeds a serving platter, scoop out caramelised beginning to brown.
discarded (see notes) cumquats from base of pan and spoon over. Flip over and sprinkle the entire galette
1 cup (250ml) orange juice For the salad, place the onion in a large with one-sixth of the cheese, then top with
3/4 cup (170g) firmly packed brown sugar bowl and season generously with salt one-sixth of the sliced ham. Cook for 3-4
1/ 2 cup (125ml) verjuice flakes. Add the oil and toss to coat. Stand minutes until the cheese melts. Place an egg
2 tbs wholegrain mustard for 10 minutes. Add vinegar and orange in the centre and fold over the 4 sides to
1 cinnamon quill segments and toss to combine. Add slightly enclose. Set aside, loosely covered
4 each whole star anise and whole cloves remaining ingredients. Wait until ready with foil, and repeat to make 6 galettes.
to serve, then toss to coat in dressing. Serve sprinkled with salt flakes, freshly
SALAD Serve sliced ham warm with salad ground black pepper and chives. Serve
1 small red onion, thinly sliced and pickled cumquats on the side. with a tomato and basil salad, if desired.
1/ 3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil NOTES: For the glaze and pickle, you
2 tbs red wine vinegar can substitute cumquats with oranges.
2 oranges, peeled raw and cut into Ask your butcher to remove the skin
segments (see notes) on the ham if you don’t feel confident.
1/ 3 cup finely chopped tarragon leaves, Segment oranges over the bowl with
plus extra sprigs to serve the onion to catch the juice.
8 radishes, thinly sliced
POST

1 small fennel bulb, thinly sliced with HAM, CHEESE & EGG
fronds reserved (we used a mandoline) BUCKWHEAT GALETTE
1 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves MAKES 6

For the pickled cumquats, place fruit in 70g unsalted butter

a medium saucepan and cover with cold 6 large eggs
water. Bring to the boil over medium-high 375g grated cheese (Emmental, cheddar,
heat. Remove from heat and stand for 5 Gouda or Gruyere are all good)
minutes. Drain and set aside. Add vinegar, 600g sliced smoked Bundarra leg ham
sugar, spices and 1 tsp fine salt to same pan Finely chopped chives and tomato
and bring to the boil, stirring, until sugar and basil salad, to serve (optional)
 Bitter leaves with
grapefruit and hazelnuts
(p 123)

Choosing your table centrepiece

is the easy part – when it comes
to sides, you can really let your
imagination run wild. Paul Farag
offers some inspired side dish
ideas to help you plan a truly
unique celebratory menu this year.
PHOTOGRAPHY Brett Stevens
STYLING David Morgan
 GUEST CHEF.

Potato rosti with cultured

cream and bottarga (p 123)

“You can make this into smaller individual

rostis, but I really like having a large one in
the middle of the table so everyone can get
involved. If you’re feeling fancy, you could add
salmon roe, or even caviar to really make it a
plush side. This batch should comfortably do
2 x 23cm pans. I like to make this recipe using
a mandoline with the julienne attachment, but
if this isn’t available, you can use a box grater.”

delicious.com.au 117
GUEST CHEF.

“A really simple side of fresh asparagus

lightly grilled, the cheese and lemon work
really well together. I prefer to cook the
asparagus over charcoal, but if this isn’t
feasible, you can do it in a pan. With the
asparagus, check if they have a thick and
fibrous base at the stem. Traditionally, we
break off the stems, but if they’re young
and tender they’re fine to eat.”

Grilled asparagus,
preserved lemon & goat’s
cheese (p 120)
 Roast cabbage with rose
petal muhammara
(p 120)

“This red capsicum condiment might

seem like a lot of work, but you can
make a larger batch and keep it in the
fridge for about a week and use it for
other recipes, too. It makes a great
dip when blended and also a quick-fire
pasta sauce for an easy midweek meal.”

delicious.com.au 119
 For the vinaigrette, bring a small saucepan For the muhammara, combine rose petals,
of water to the boil over high heat. Add molasses, vinegar and oil in a medium
mustard seeds and boil for 30 seconds, bowl. Set aside at room temperature,
stirring occasionally with a fork. Drain stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes.
through a fine sieve, then repeat the Meanwhile, char the outside of the
process three more times (doing this will capsicums and chillies over the open flame
remove excess bitterness from the seeds). of a gas stovetop (or blister under an oven
Place mustard oil, eschalot, drained grill set on high heat). Place in a bowl,
mustard seeds and 2 tsp salt flakes in a small cover with plastic wrap and set aside for
saucepan over low heat and cook, stirring 15 minutes to steam. When cool enough
occasionally, for 8-10 minutes until the to handle, peel skins. Discard skin and
eschalot has softened but not coloured. seeds but reserve as much of the resting
Add nigella seeds and Aleppo pepper and liquid in the bowl. Finely chop the flesh
stir for 30 seconds to heat through, then of the capsicum and chilli and set aside.

P aul Farag might have made his name

with cutting-edge cuisine, but as
these recipes prove, a true master knows
remove from heat and stir through lemon
zest and juice. Set aside to cool in pan.
Pod the peas and broad beans, keeping
Place rose petal mixture in a medium
saucepan with the eschalot, cumin and
garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, over low
that it’s simplicity that makes for the them both separate. heat for 20 minutes or until eschalot is
greatest dishes. Each of these sides is If the peas are young enough, they can be tender but not browned. Remove from
bursting with fresh and original flavours, eaten raw. If not, bring a large saucepan of heat and stir through the chopped
yet each is simple, adaptable and liberally salted water to the boil over high capsicum and chilli, and any reserved
versatile enough to grace the table heat. Blanch peas for 30 seconds, then use liquid from bowl, coriander stems and
of any festive gathering, large or small. a slotted spoon to transfer to iced water to leaves and 3 tsp salt flakes. Set aside.
From crunchy, punchy salad leaves and stop them cooking. Repeat with the broad Meanwhile, preheat oven to 200°C/180°C
sweet summer greens paired with cheese beans. If the broad beans are small and fan-forced. Line a large baking tray with
to rich roasted vegetables designed to young, you don’t have to pod them baking paper. Place cabbage cut-side
be scooped, sliced and shared, your a second time from their skins. up on tray and brush all over with melted
summer menus will be a pleasure to plan, Spread stracciatella over a wide-based butter. Roast for 40 minutes or until golden
prepare and enjoy with these creative serving tray. Combine vinaigrette, peas, and soft when pierced with a skewer.
and crowd-pleasing full-flavoured broad beans and mint in a large bowl and To serve, transfer cabbage to a serving
recipes. Bring on the holidays! toss gently. Spoon over the stracciatella platter. While cabbage is still hot, spoon
and serve sprinkled with pistachios. over muhammara and sprinkle with walnuts.
BROAD BEAN, PEA & SMOKED
STRACCIATELLA SALAD ROAST CABBAGE WITH ROSE GRILLED ASPARAGUS, PRESERVED
SERVES 6-8 (AS A SIDE) PETAL MUHAMMARA LEMON & GOAT’S CHEESE
SERVES 8 (AS A SIDE) SERVES 6-8 (AS A SIDE)
1kg fresh peas in pods (see note)
1.5kg fresh broad beans in pods 1 x 2kg whole savoy cabbage, halved 2 whole large heads of garlic
(see note) widthways 100ml robust extra virgin olive oil,
2 x 250g tubs smoked stracciatella 150g salted butter, melted plus extra to drizzle
(from delis and specialty grocers) 1/ 3 cup (35g) walnut halves, lightly 2 whole preserved lemons
1 bunch mint, leaves picked toasted, roughly chopped 6 bunches (1kg total) fresh asparagus
60g pistachios, lightly toasted, Juice of 1 lemon
roughly chopped ROSE PETAL MUHAMMARA 50g Garrotxa (semi-hard Spanish goat’s
3/4 cup (10g) edible dried rose petals cheese, from delis and specialty
MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE (we used Pariya brand) grocers) or a similar semi-hard
1 tbs each yellow and black mustard 1/4 cup (60ml) pomegranate molasses or hard goat’s cheese
seeds 2 tbs sherry vinegar
100ml black mustard oil (from specialty 3/4 cup (180ml) extra virgin olive oil Preheat oven to 200°C/180°C fan-forced.
grocers) 2 (600g total) large red capsicums Cut the tops off the heads of garlic (just
2 large eschalots, finely chopped 100g long red chillies enough to expose the top of the garlic
11/ 2 tbs nigella seeds 2 eschalots, thinly sliced cloves). Wrap bulbs separately in foil,
1 tsp Aleppo pepper (or 1/2 tsp sweet 2 tsp cumin seeds drizzling each with 2 tbs of the oil before
paprika and 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper) 4 garlic cloves, crushed securing tightly. Roast directly on the oven
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 bunch coriander, stems and leaves shelf for 45 minutes or until softened. Set
1 large lemon chopped aside to cool completely in their parcels.

120 delicious.com.au | FOLLOW ME: @paul_farag

 GUEST CHEF.

Broad bean, pea & smoked

stracciatella salad

RECIPE NOTE: You’ll get

roughly 365g peas from
their pods and roughly
410g broad beans.

“You can substitute fresh peas

and broad beans for frozen,
but nothing compares to the
freshness and crunch you get
from in-season beans. If smoked
stracciatella is hard to source,
normal is fine; you could even
use any soft-curd cheese you
like. I personally love to eat
this with a bit of crusty bread.”
GUEST CHEF.

Pumpkin with Shropshire

blue custard

“Pumpkin and blue cheese is like pork

and apple to me – it’s a match made
in heaven! I like to keep this simple.
It’s all about the decadence of the
custard and the soft pumpkin. I prefer
to use butternut pumpkin, as it’s not
overly wet when roasted and the skin
is delicious, but you could use any
pumpkin of your choice. If you wanted
to, you could add roasted hazelnut
and a dried fruit of your choice, but
that could be the Egyptian in me.”

122 delicious.com.au
 Once cooled, squeeze out the confit the cream will thicken too much). Strain Wash all the leaves in a large bowl of iced
garlic into a large bowl, adding any resting through a fine sieve set over a jug. Pour water with a pinch of salt flakes, then drain
juice and oil remaining from roasting. custard into the cavities of each pumpkin well and transfer to a large serving bowl.
Set aside at room temperature. (see note). Bake for 30 minutes or until Add marjoram, tossing to combine.
Cut the preserved lemon into quarters, custard is golden (cover loosely with foil Peel grapefruit, then thinly slice, catching
scoop out and discard the fleshy centre. if custard is over-browning) and just set any juice from chopping board if possible.
Thinly slice the skin into 1mm strips and (it should still have a very slight jiggle). Whisk together the oil, apple juice and
add to the large bowl with garlic. Set aside. Rest on tray for 10 minutes. any grapefruit juice and season with salt
Preheat a large chargrill pan or barbecue Meanwhile, melt butter in a large frypan flakes and white pepper. Drizzle over
chargrill plate to high. Drizzle asparagus over high heat. Add sage and cook for salad leaves and toss to coat evenly.
with 1 tbs oil and sprinkle with salt flakes, 2-3 minutes until leaves are crisp and Serve sprinkled with hazelnuts.
then chargrill for 1 minute each side or until butter starts to brown. Remove leaves
lightly charred all over (you want some and set aside on paper towel to drain. POTATO ROSTI WITH CULTURED
colour but still some crunch). Transfer Reserve browned butter. CREAM AND BOTTARGA
to bowl with garlic and preserved lemon, Transfer pumpkin to a serving plate, SERVES 4-6 (AS A SIDE)
add lemon juice and 2 tsp freshly ground top with crispy sage leaves and serve
black pepper and, using hands, mix drizzled with a little brown butter. 1kg sebago potatoes, peeled
well until asparagus is well coated. NOTE: Depending on the size of your 200g ghee, melted
Transfer asparagus to a serving plate pumpkins, you may have some leftover 200g creme fraiche
and finely grate the cheese over the custard. Pour it into a small ovenproof dish 10g bottarga (optional, or see
top. Drizzle with extra oil to serve. and bake in a water bath alongside the note, p 117)
pumpkins and serve alongside. 1 bunch chives, finely chopped
PUMPKIN WITH SHROPSHIRE
BLUE CUSTARD BITTER LEAVES WITH Using a mandoline fitted with the julienne
SERVES 6-8 (AS A SIDE) GRAPEFRUIT AND HAZELNUTS attachment, cut potatoes into fine
SERVES 6-8 (AS A SIDE) matchsticks. Using hands, squeeze out
2 (3kg total) small butternut pumpkins, “You can substitute the bitter leaves in this excess liquid, then place potato in a large
halved lengthways, seeds removed recipe with anything you like. Spigarello, bowl. Immediately toss all the potato in
1/ 3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil wild rocket, frisee or escarole are all great. half the ghee and season well with salt
60g cold unsalted butter, chopped If you find them too hard to source, you can flakes and freshly ground black pepper.
12 large sage leaves make this with different types of lettuce.” Place a non-stick frypan with a 23cm
base (use a sheet of baking paper to line
SHROPSHIRE BLUE CUSTARD 1 head red witlof your pan if you don’t have a non-stick one)
150g Shropshire blue cheese (substitute 1 head chicory over medium-low heat. Add half the
any other firm blue cheese) 1 bunch sorrel potato mix, spreading to evenly cover base
4 large egg yolks, at room temperature 1 bunch watercress of pan, lightly shaping it to a neat circle,
2 tsp leatherwood honey (substitute 3 sprigs marjoram, leaves picked but trying not to push down too much.
a strong floral honey of your choice) 3 ruby grapefruit Cook for 15 minutes or until deep
150ml thickened cream 100ml extra virgin olive oil golden brown. When ready to flip, place
1/4 cup (60ml) cloudy apple juice a chopping board over the pan and flip
Preheat oven to 220°C/200°C fan-forced. White pepper, to season onto the board. Place half the remaining
Line a baking tray with baking paper. 180g blanched hazelnuts, lightly ghee (50g) in the pan and transfer the rosti
Place pumpkin cut-side up on prepared toasted, roughly chopped back to the pan, uncooked-side down, and
tray, rub all over with oil and season with cook for 10-15 minutes until a deep golden
salt flakes. Roast for 40 minutes or until just Start by preparing all the leaves. For the colour. Remove from pan and drain on
soft when pierced with a skewer. Use a witlof, cut the stem 1cm from the base and paper towel. Repeat process with the
spoon to create a slightly larger cavity peel all the leaves off, then cut individual remaining potato mixture and ghee.
in each pumpkin from where the seeds leaves in half lengthways. For the chicory, To serve, place a good dollop of creme
were removed. Set aside to cool on tray. pick the green leafy parts of the plant, fraiche on top of each warm rosti, finely
Reduce oven to 180°C/160°C fan-forced. then discard stems. For the sorrel, remove grate or shave bottarga over the top (if
For the custard, place cheese, yolks and the fibrous part of the leaves. For the using) and sprinkle with chives to serve.
honey in a food processor and whiz until watercress, pick all the leaves from the
smooth. Add cream and pulse a few times stems, keeping only the very tender FOR MORE SPECTACULAR SIDES:
until just combined (if you whiz for too long stems and discarding the fibrous ones. delicious.com.au/recipes
NATALIE PAULL.

Joy to the
WORLD!
Season’s greetings are always sweeter when there’s a homemade treat involved.
Baker extraordinaire Natalie Paull gets the sleigh bells ringing with edible gifts
and traditional holiday bakes that are guaranteed to bring glad tidings.
PHOTOGRAPHY Chris Court STYLING Emma Knowles

Brown butter & muscovado

pryaniki (p 130)

“Toasted butter and malty

muscovado sugar makes these
softly spiced humps the sweetest
cookie in the jar. A scoop of rye
flour brings an earthy flavour
and a slight heft to the chew. If you
want to skip the sugar syrup
coating, a thin icing sugar glaze or
dark chocolate dip are equally
delicious options.”

124 delicious.com.au
 Linzer cookie wreath (p 130)

“Apart from apples and

cinnamon, there is no better
combination than these buttery,
hazelnutty cookies paired with
a red fruit jam filling. You can
make the wreath as a pretty table
cookie centrepiece, or just turn
all the dough into filled cookies.”
 “ I was the Goose to Dad’s Maverick when he made our family Christmas cake every
year. I shadowed him as he carefully chose the best dried fruits, soaking them
all in a special port he had earmarked. I stood mesmerised and fascinated as the
Kenwood mixer beat butter, brown sugar and citrus zest. The final mixing was done
in our scrupulously cleaned kitchen sink, as it was the biggest ‘bowl’ we could find.
Once it was ready, it was our tradition to eat a slice of the heavily buttered fruit
cake on Christmas morning. Cake for breakfast!
I’ve always believed that Christmas gives me carte blanche to bust open packets
of dried fruit, sugar and spices. And block after block of butter! Our Australian
Christmases are summery hot, so I always chill the dry ingredients as well as the butter,
so cookie-making is less sticky and stressful. And prep ahead: some ‘mise en bake’ can
be done ahead of time – doughs rolled and frozen, fruit mince made months before.
Some things like gingerbread actually get better if baked a week or more before.
Keep that oven free for all the roasted savoury goodness on Christmas Day!”

FOLLOW ME: @beatrixbakes apricots into sponge with the back of the
spoon. Top with another piece of sponge
SACHERTORTE WITH For the sponge, place chocolate, cocoa, and repeat with liqueur and apricot. Brush
APRICOT COMPOTE oil, 1/ 2 tsp fine salt and 200ml water in a remaining sponge with liqueur and place,
SERVES 6-10 medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over liqueur-side down, to finish. Adjust
Begin this recipe a day ahead. medium heat, whisking constantly until sponge stacks to align pieces and press
smooth and starting to simmer. Scrape lightly. Brush crumbs from side, cover
1/4
cup (60ml) apricot liqueur or kirsch into a large bowl. Set aside until lukewarm. with plastic wrap and chill overnight.
60g apricot jam Place eggs and sugar in a stand mixer Mix jam with 1 tbs boiling water and
30g dark (70%) chocolate fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk brush top and sides of cake with jam.
Dutch cocoa, to dust for 8 minutes on medium-high speed until For the ganache, place the chocolate
thick and tripled in volume. Meanwhile, in a medium heatproof bowl over a
CHOCOLATE SPONGE sift flour and cornflour together 3 times. saucepan of simmering water (don’t let
160g dark (70%) chocolate, chopped Add egg mixture to chocolate mixture base of bowl touch the water) and stir
20g Dutch cocoa powder and gently fold until combined. Sift over until melted. Remove from heat and stir
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil half the flour mixture, gently fold until in the cream until combined, then stir in
6 large eggs, at room temperature almost all incorporated, then sift over the syrup until combined. With cake still
180g raw caster sugar the remainder. Gently fold until there on the rack and placed over a baking tray
90g biscuit, pastry and cake flour are no floury or chocolatey streaks. to catch any dripping chocolate, pour
40g cornflour Scrape into prepared tray and smooth ganache slowly over the cake, guiding
out to level. Bake for 18 minutes until top ganache to fall down the sides. Smooth
APRICOT FILLING is dry and sponge is springy. Invert onto top and sides with a metal spatula
410g can apricots in juice a cooling rack, carefully lift off tray, peel to evenly coat, and set aside to set.
Large strips of peel and juice away paper, then re-invert and cool fully. While ganache sets, melt dark
of 1 orange Meanwhile, for the filling, drain apricots chocolate in a microwave-safe bowl
1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar over a medium saucepan and add peel, in 30-second bursts and smooth thinly
juice and sugar to the syrup. Bring to the onto a sheet of baking paper. Cover with
GANACHE boil, stirring until sugar dissolves. Gently a second piece of baking paper and roll
2 x 180g blocks dark (40%) chocolate, boil for 10 minutes until a thick syrup. up to form a 2cm-diameter cylinder.
chopped Next, thickly slice apricots, add to syrup Freeze for 30 minutes, then unroll –
200ml thickened cream, at room and simmer for 5 minutes to soften. Set the chocolate will break into shards.
temperature aside to cool. Reserve peel to decorate. Once ganache has set, lift cake carefully
1/3 cup (115g) glucose syrup To assemble, cut sides of sponge to onto a serving plate using an egg lifter.
straighten, if needed. With the long edge Top with chocolate shards, dust with
Preheat oven to 200°C/180ºC fan-forced. facing you, cut three equal pieces. Place cocoa and top with reserved candied
Grease base and sides of a 38cm x 26cm, first piece back onto cooling rack. Brush peel. Cut with a hot damp knife.
3cm-deep rectangle baking tray and line with 1 tbs liqueur and gently spoon over
with baking paper. half the apricot mixture, lightly pressing
 NATALIE PAULL.

Sachertorte with apricot compote

“This makes a stunning, easy-to-slice

Christmas centrepiece when everyone is over
the pudding and pavlova. Serve with a big
bowl of half cream and half creme fraiche
whipped together. You can skip the compote
and use store-bought apricot jam to layer
(just promise me you’ll spruce it up with a
lemon squeeze for sparkle). If the fruit gods
are kind and you have fresh, peak-season
apricots, use them with absolute abandon!”

delicious.com.au 127
NATALIE PAULL.

Cranberry, marzipan
& white chocolate
Christbrot buns

“Christbrot, with its fluffy

crumb, will steal your
heart. Tart dried
cranberries stud the buns
with fruit-forward
festiveness, and the
mixed-in marzipan brings
that traditional almond
flavour. Plus, the silky
white chocolate whip is like
sweet, creamy snow!”
CRANBERRY, MARZIPAN & WHITE
CHOCOLATE CHRISTBROT BUNS
MAKES 13
Begin this recipe a day ahead (see notes).

11/ 3 cups (200g) whole dried cranberries

1 tbs dark rum
200ml lukewarm water
1 sachet (7g) dried yeast
400g plain flour
100g unsalted butter, slightly softened
but still cool, chopped
1 large egg, at room temperature
11/ 2 tbs caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
Finely grated zest of 1 large orange
80g marzipan, chopped into pea-sized
pieces

CANDIED ROSEMARY Almond & cardamom

kipferl (p 133)
1 large egg white, at room temperature
1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar

Rosemary sprigs, to decorate

BUN GLAZE
11/ 2 tbs orange juice (from zested orange)
11/ 2 tbs caster sugar

WHITE CHOCOLATE WHIP a large bowl (do not make it foamy). Add the
150g cream cheese, at room temperature caster sugar to a small bowl. Working one Meanwhile, for the bun glaze, place juice
80g white chocolate, melted, cooled sprig at a time, dip a rosemary sprig into and sugar in a small saucepan and stir over
slightly egg, then tap against side of bowl to remove medium heat for 2-3 minutes until sugar
40g unsalted butter, softened any excess (you want a very light coating dissolves and mixture is just about to simmer.
of egg white on rosemary). Hover egg- Bake buns for 20-25 minutes until medium-
Starting the night before, mix the cranberries white rosemary sprig above sugar bowl and dark brown on top. Brush tops and sides
and rum in a medium bowl, cover and leave sprinkle sugar over its surface, turning to of hot buns with warm glaze. Cool on tray.
at room temperature overnight, stirring evenly coat, then tap lightly against side of For the white chocolate whip, whiz all
occasionally to plump up (see notes). bowl to knock away any excess (you don’t ingredients in a food processor until
The next day, add the lukewarm water want any clumps forming; this will prevent a creamy smooth consistency.
to a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. candied rosemary from setting). Place on a To serve, dollop white chocolate whip
Add the yeast, then flour, butter, egg, sugar, wire rack and set aside to harden (see notes). evenly over buns, lightly spreading to cover,
vanilla, zest and 1 tsp fine salt. Knead on Grease a large baking tray and line with then decorate with candied rosemary.
medium-low speed until a ball forms, then baking paper. On a lightly floured work NOTES: Buns are best eaten on the
knead for 5-6 minutes until dough ball is surface, divide dough into 13 equal pieces day of baking. Any leftover buns can be
smooth and almost cleans the side of bowl. and roll into tight, smooth balls. Place on reheated in the microwave for 20 seconds
Add the plumped cranberries and the prepared tray in a 4-3-3-2-1 formation on medium heat. You can replace the
marzipan and knead for another 2 minutes (in a Christmas tree shape) leaving a small cranberries with any dried fruit of your
on low speed. After mixing, if the fruit isn’t 5mm gap between each bun. Cover with choice, such as raisins, currants or mixed
evenly distributed, give dough a light knead a piece of baking paper and prove again peel. If you forget to prep fruit, do a fast
with a spatula (dough will be quite sticky). for 60 minutes in a warm place until a plumping by covering with plastic wrap and
Cover mixer bowl with plastic wrap and pressured poke leaves an indent that slowly zapping in the microwave for 1-2 minutes
prove in a warm place for 60-90 minutes, bounces back and buns have puffed up until steamy. Cool before adding to dough
until dough has puffed to double size. and are just touching each other. later. Candied rosemary can be made up
Meanwhile, for the candied rosemary, use In the last 20 minutes of proving, preheat to 5 days ahead. It will keep in an airtight
a fork to gently mix the egg white slightly in oven to 200°C/180ºC fan-forced. container in a cool place once perfectly dry.

delicious.com.au 129
JAMMY JEWEL COOKIES For a smooth jam finish, microwave jam Set aside to cool slightly. Working one at a
MAKES 8 in a small heatproof bowl on high for time, brush top and base of warm pryaniki
You’ll need 9cm and 4cm diamond, square 30-seconds-1 minute or until runny. While with warm syrup and return to baking tray.
or round cookie cutters (see note, opposite). warm, strain through a fine sieve set over a When all pryaniki are glazed, roll each in
Begin this recipe at least 6 hours ahead. small bowl and discard any solids. This will icing sugar and set on a cooling rack to dry.
give your cookie ‘windows’ a glassy sheen. NOTE: Store in an airtight container
190g unsalted butter, slightly softened for up to 3 weeks.
but still cool, chopped BROWN BUTTER &
50g pure icing sugar, sifted, plus extra, MUSCOVADO PRYANIKI LINZER COOKIE WREATH
to dust MAKES 16 MAKES 1 WREATH (OR 30 COOKIES)
2 tsp vanilla bean paste Begin this recipe a day ahead. You’ll need 8cm and 4cm star cookie cutters
160g biscuit, pastry and cake flour and a 1.5cm round cookie cutter. Begin this
100g cornflour 100g dark muscovado sugar (substitute recipe at least 5 hours ahead.
200g jam of choice (we used a mix dark brown sugar)
of apricot and strawberry) 100g icing sugar mixture 250g red jam (we used a mix of
raspberry, blood orange and plum)
For the dough, place butter, icing sugar and PRYANIKI DOUGH 1/4 cup (30g) icing sugar mixture, plus

vanilla in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle 70g unsalted butter, chopped extra, to dust
attachment and beat on medium speed until 100g mild runny honey (or golden syrup) 3/4 tsp milk

pale and fluffy. Whisk the flour, cornflour and 80g dark muscovado sugar (substitute
1/2 tsp fine salt in a medium bowl to combine dark brown sugar) LINZER DOUGH
and add to the butter mixture. Mix on low 1/4 tsp bicarb soda 120g blanched hazelnuts, toasted, cooled
speed until dough comes together. Scrape 190g biscuit, pastry and cake flour 2 cups (300g) plain flour, plus extra
onto a piece of plastic wrap and squeeze 50g rye flour to dust
into a fat, flat disc, ensuring there are no 1/ 2 tsp ground allspice 230g chilled unsalted butter, chopped
buttery streaks left in the dough. Chill 1/4 tsp each ground nutmeg and baking 100g pure icing sugar, sifted
for a minimum of 2 hours, or overnight. powder 1/2 tsp each ground cinnamon and

When ready to roll, grease a large 1 large egg, at room temperature baking powder
baking tray and line with baking paper.
Remove dough from fridge and allow For the dough, cook the butter in a medium For the dough, place toasted hazelnuts
it to soften a little at room temperature to saucepan over medium-high heat until it and flour in a food processor and whiz
become malleable (it will crack if you roll begins to colour and foam. Remove from until hazelnuts are the size of sesame
from cold). Roll on a lightly floured surface heat and stir in the honey, sugar, bicarb and seeds. Add remaining ingredients and
to 4mm thick. Chill for 20 minutes. Stamp out 11/ 2 tbs water until smooth and combined. 1/2 tsp fine salt, then pulse until dough

16 large cookies and place on prepared tray Sift the flours, spices, baking powder comes together in a crumbly mass.
(you can re-roll dough as many times as you and 1/4 tsp fine salt over a medium bowl. Shape dough into a ball, then flatten
need). Using smaller cutter, cut out ‘windows’ Add the egg to the butter mixture to a fat disc. Enclose in plastic wrap
from 8 cookies. Chill for 30 minutes. and stir until combined, then add the dry and chill for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
Preheat oven to 160°C/140ºC fan-forced. ingredients. The dough will be like gluey Remove dough from fridge and allow
Bake for 25 minutes. Cookies will be pale mashed potato. When no floury streaks it to soften a little at room temperature to
but will have lost the raw shininess and look remain, scrape into a small bowl lined with become malleable. Halve the dough disc
matte and cooked. Turn oven off and leave plastic wrap and chill, covered, for at least and roll the first piece on a floured piece of
in oven, with door closed, to cool down 8 hours, or overnight. baking paper until 4mm thick. Brush off any
slowly and make the cookies a little firmer. Preheat oven to 160°C/140ºC fan-forced. excess flour. Using two plates as a guide,
Dust window cookies with icing sugar and Line a large baking tray with baking paper. cut out a 24cm circle, then cut a 12cm
set aside. Turn base cookies bottom-side Roll heaped tbs into balls and place on circle from the centre of the first circle
up and carefully spread each with 1 tbs jam. prepared tray, leaving 4cm between each. (we offset the inner circle a little).
Working with one cookie top at a time, lift a Bake for 20-25 minutes until pale, puffy Remove dough offcuts, lightly squeeze
window cookie off tray by its sides and give domes and still soft to touch – you want together to smooth, then combine with
it a light tap to dislodge any excess sugar. cooled pryaniki to be soft, not crisp. the remaining dough piece.
Place it onto its jammy base. Once all cookies While the pryaniki cool slightly on tray, Roll remaining dough on a floured
are paired, re-warm jam and use a heaped make the glaze by simmering the dark piece of baking paper to 3mm thick.
tsp of jam to carefully fill up the jam window. muscovado sugar and 2 tbs water in a small Grease 3 baking trays and line with baking
NOTES: Store in an airtight container for saucepan for 2 minutes over medium-low paper. Use 8cm and 4cm star cutters to
up to 2 weeks (cookies will soften a little). heat until a thin syrup. cut out 20 x 8cm stars and 10 x 4cm stars,
 NATALIE PAULL.

Jammy jewel cookies

RECIPE NOTE: You can

find diamond cookie
cutters at specialty baking
stores or online suppliers.

delicious.com.au 131
NATALIE PAULL.

Pistazienringe
(Pistachio rings)

132 delicious.com.au
re-rolling dough as needed. Arrange For the dough, place all ingredients in For the dough, place butter, icing sugar and
cut stars on the prepared trays. Stamp a large bowl with 1/ 2 tsp fine salt. Rub lemon zest in a stand mixer fitted with the
a small 1.5cm hole in the centre of together to form a crumbly mix (or use paddle attachment and beat on medium
10 of the large stars – these will become a stand mixer fitted with the paddle speed until pale and fluffy. Whisk the flour,
jammy ‘peek-a-boo’ cookie tops. attachment on low speed). Gently shape cornflour and 1/ 2 tsp fine salt in a medium
Preheat oven to 160°C/140ºC fan- dough into a smooth log. Wrap in plastic bowl to combine and add to butter mixture.
forced. Bake the stars and the wreath wrap. Chill for 30 minutes until firm. Mix on low speed until dough comes
circle at the same time – the stars will Grease a baking tray and line with baking together. Scrape onto a piece of plastic wrap
take 30-40 minutes and the wreath paper. Portion dough into 15 pieces. and squeeze into a fat, flat disc, ensuring
circle around 50 minutes – until both are Working with one portion at a time, roll there are no buttery streaks left. Chill
medium brown in colour. When the wreath on a lightly floured bench into a 15cm log, for a minimum of 2 hours, or overnight.
circle has finished baking, turn oven off tapering ends slightly. Transfer to prepared When ready to roll, line a baking tray with
and slide the stars back into the oven, tray and shape into a C shape (they won’t baking paper. Remove dough from fridge
with door closed, to cool down slowly spread, so they can sit close to each other) and allow it to soften a little at room
and make the cookies a little firmer. squeezing dough back together, as it temperature to become malleable (it will
Once cooled, assemble the cookies. will crack when shaping it. Chill while you crack if you roll from cold). Roll on a lightly
Heat the jam and strain (see notes). Lay preheat oven to 150ºC/130°C fan-forced. floured surface to 5mm thick. Chill for 20
the large whole star cookies, base-side Bake for 30 minutes to light biscuity golden. minutes. Use a 9cm fluted cutter to cut out
up, on a tray and smear with a thin layer Mix the icing sugar and cardamom in a rings and carefully transfer to prepared tray.
of jam. Place the stars with holes on top medium bowl. Remove tray from oven and Use a 4.5cm fluted cutter to stamp out
and fill the hole with an extra dab of jam. sift the icing sugar mixture evenly over the centres, gently lifting them away. Lightly
Mix icing sugar and milk in a small tray, blanketing the cookies. Sprinkle a few knead offcuts, re-rolling and cutting more
bowl until combined. Spoon into a small salt flakes over each cookie, then leave shapes to create 12 rings in total. Chill
zip-lock bag and snip off a small corner to cool on tray to room temperature. for at least 30 minutes before baking,
with scissors. Pipe around edges of several NOTE: Cookies will keep in an airtight so shapes keep their sharp edges.
biscuits. Dust tops with icing sugar. container for up to 2 weeks. In humid Preheat oven to 150°C/130ºC fan-forced.
Carefully slide the wreath base onto weather, the icing sugar can melt and yellow Bake for 20-25 minutes. Cookies will be pale
a flat serving board. Arrange large stars slightly. If this happens, a second coat of but will have lost the raw shininess and look
around the wreath then set a few of the icing sugar can be applied before serving. matte and cooked. Turn oven off and leave
small ones on top at intervals. Serve. in oven, with door closed, to cool slowly
NOTES: This is best eaten on the day, PISTAZIENRINGE (PISTACHIO RINGS) and make the cookies a little firmer.
as the cookies can soften a little after MAKES 12 When cooled, make the glaze. Place the
jam is added. For a smooth jam finish, You’ll need 9cm and 4.5cm fluted cookie icing sugar mixture in a small bowl and
microwave jam in a small heatproof bowl cutters (or see notes). Begin this recipe slowly whisk in the lemon juice until a runny,
on high for 30-seconds-1 minute or until at least 6 hours ahead. but not watery, consistency. If you overshoot
runny. While warm, strain through a fine with the lemon juice, add a little more icing
sieve set over a small bowl and discard 60g blanched pistachio slivers or raw mixture. You want the icing to be a thin,
any solids. This will give your cookie pistachios, finely chopped pouring consistency. Add a pinch of fine salt.
‘windows’ a glassy sheen. Finely grated zest of 1 lemon (use zest Set up a cooling rack over a tray. Working
from lemon in lemon glaze, see below) with one cookie at a time, carefully dip top
ALMOND & CARDAMOM KIPFERL of cookie into glaze to cover surface evenly,
MAKES 15 SHORTBREAD DOUGH allowing excess to drain away, then quickly
190g unsalted butter, slightly softened twist as you turn it over, glaze-side up and
260g biscuit, pastry and cake flour but still cool, chopped place on the cooling rack. After 2 cookies
180g unsalted butter, slightly softened 50g pure icing sugar, sifted are dipped, sprinkle the pistachio on the wet
but still cool, chopped Finely grated zest of 1 lemon icing and add a little grated lemon zest
140g blanched almond meal 160g biscuit, pastry and cake flour on top. Allow glaze to set firm, then serve.
60g raw caster sugar 2 / 3 cup (100g) cornflour NOTES: The biscuits can be stored in an
2 tsp vanilla bean paste airtight container for up to 2 weeks. If you
LEMON GLAZE don’t have these exact cutters, you can use
CARDAMOM SUGAR 140g icing sugar mixture plain round or square cookie cutters of
140g icing sugar mixture 1-2 tbs lemon juice (reserve zest the same sizes.
1/ 2 tsp ground cardamom from lemon to decorate)

FOR MORE CHRISTMAS BAKING RECIPES: delicious.com.au/recipes

 Espresso chocolate truffles
with honey & vanilla (p 137)

RECIPE NOTE:
“If you have hot hands, cool
them on a bag of frozen
peas before rolling the
truffles. The coffee can be
replaced with spices, such
as cinnamon, star anise or
vanilla. Instead of cocoa
powder, roll the truffles in
crushed roasted nuts”

It’s always a good time for chocolate. Pastry chef and “Surrender yourself to these simple and
‘chocolate queen’ Kirsten Tibballs has created the ultimate irresistible morsels – the most indulgent way
to get a coffee hit. Small in size but big on
chocolate-lover’s bible, filled with irresistible recipes for
flavour, these to-die-for truffles are laden
decadent treats to be enjoyed morning, noon and night. with chocolate and coffee goodness and
mellowed with a touch of honey and vanilla.
They also make excellent gifts, if you can
PHOTOGRAPHY Armelle Habib bring yourself to part with them.”
“Enter a world of strawberry syrup-soaked
sponge, seductively sweet white chocolate
mousse and an abundance of fresh summery
strawberries. The beauty of this knockout
trifle comes from the varying shapes and sizes
of the fresh strawberry slices. The
best part is we’re not aiming for perfect
uniformity, which makes this simply
stunning effect very easy to create.”
I
 -

SUGAR
& SPICE
“Preserving ginger at
home is an affordable,
EASY, WASTE-FREE
way to use up any knobs
of ginger you have lying
around in your fridge.
It also makes for a lovely
edible gift-giving idea.”
“A LIGHT-AS-AIR gingerbread sponge
with a boozy vanilla custard is a great
combo that just screams Christmas.”
“This chilled dessert is
for you if you refuse to
turn on your oven in
summer but still want to
add an IMPRESSIVE
DESSERT to a shared
table. You can decorate
the top as elaborately or
as simply as you desire.”
 Retreat to the
country at Heckfield
Place
~
(p 154)

Discover... LUXURY & WELLNESS AT HECKFIELD PLACE, UK | THE LATEST TRAVEL NEWS | TAKE THE HIGH
ROAD ON THE NSW EAST COAST | A CULTURAL RENAISSANCE IN CAPE TOWN | A LOCAL’S GUIDE TO LOMBARDY
delicious.com.au 153
CHECK IN.

HECKFIELD PLACE
ENGL A ND

At this new-wave English country house, both relaxation and regeneration

are serious business. Ute Junker goes with the flow.
 C
all me over-prepared, but I’ve
already written my mental
packing list for my next visit
to Heckfield Place. Any stay at
this Hampshire country house
retreat is going to be memorable but if you
really want to make the most of it, there
are a few things you should bring with you.
The first is a healthy appetite. The two
restaurants, overseen by culinary director
and Australian chef Skye Gyngell, are both
stellar, and you’ll want to make the most of
every meal. Fortunately, Heckfield Place’s
177 hectares offer plenty of ways to get
active in between feeds, so add your walking
shoes to the packing pile. Slip in a good
book, too – the elegant, high-ceiling sitting
rooms of this Georgian house, with their
comfy sofas and oversized fireplaces,
are the perfect places to curl up with that
novel you’ve been meaning to catch up on.
Perhaps the best thing you can bring with
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT: The grand you to Heckfield Place, however, is a healthy
Georgian main house; dose of stress. Why? Because a stay at
the walled garden; Heckfield Place is a guaranteed route
Hearth, one of two
on-site restaurants; to relaxation, and the more stressed you
Michelin Green- are, the quicker you’ll notice the benefits.
Starred Marle; the Of course it helps if, like me, you schedule
pleasure grounds;
inside Hearth; the a spa appointment immediately after your
Glass House; Marle arrival (kudos to the staff who suggested
the timing). To reach Heckfield’s brand-new
spa, The Bothy by Wildsmith, you stroll
past centuries-old trees and through a
magnificent walled garden before entering
the tranquil spa, where your shoes will
be replaced by slippers and your mobile
phone locked away and put on recharge.

delicious.com.au 155
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT: Cottage
gardens; a grand
entrance; the Glass
House space; the
Long Room; dessert
at Marle; private
dining in the Long
Room; the Coppice
Room; a garden on
a plate CENTRE: The
Bothy by Wildsmith
“Perhaps the most
relaxing thing to
do at Heckfield
is nothing at all.”
 TRAVEL NEWS
— Our curated hot destinations, cool stays,
travel essentials & everything in transit.

BYRON BOOM
1. A new wave of luxury has hit Byron Bay. The
24-room Hotel Marvell is conveniently located just
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delicious.com.au 159
 Bucket List
UNDER THE SEA —Anantara Koh
This one is for the water babies.
Ocean Wanderlust by Assouline
Yao Yai Resort
Anantara Koh Yao Yai Resort & Villas is the hotel
is an exploration of all things
chain’s newest addition, located on the pristine
under the sea. From submarines
island of Koh Yao Yai. A 45-minute boat ride
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OUR KIND
OF CLUB
The new tropicana-chic
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crystalbrookcollection.com Sign us up! aquaexpeditions.com

DELICIOUS.COM.AU/TRAVEL Go online for more

travel news from Australia and around the world.

160 | CURATED BY CONSTANTINA DEMOS @constantinademos

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EAST COAST
ROAD TRIP
Sun Ranch is the new
kid on the block, and
one of the coolest
in the Byron area.
It’s cowboy chic
meets up-market
ranch from the ‘70s.
delicious.com.au 165
 TOWN

A view of Cape Town

from Table Mountain
OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT:
Gorgeous George;
a meal at TTK
Fledgelings; local
artworks; Gorgeous
George; eats at
Emazulwini
delicious.com.au 169
 Chris Schalkx

“AFTER ALMOST
THREE YEARS OF
STRICT LOCKDOWNS
AND BORDER
CLOSURES, SOUTH
AFRICA’S ‘MOTHER
CITY’ IS BACK IN
THE PICTURE.”
FOLLOW ME: @chrsschlkx

supremely comfortable – but it’s the Gigi

Rooftop Bar that is the hotel’s showpiece.
For good reason: with plants dangling
fter almost three years from the ceiling, an indoor/outdoor
of strict lockdowns and pool and a tip-top restaurant (don’t
border closures, South miss the fried-to-order churros), Gigi
Africa’s ‘Mother City’ knows how to deliver a good time.
is back in the picture. For a hit of nostalgia, ‘Nellie’ – as
While tourists were the Mount Nelson, a Belmond Hotel, is
affectionately called by its many regulars
– is hard to beat. Coated in a now-iconic
hue of peachy pink, this grande dame
just off the restaurant-packed Kloof
Street in inner-city neighbourhood
Gardens is chocolate-box pretty, and has
aged gracefully since opening in 1899. It
still welcomes Cape Town’s who’s who for
cocktails in the palm-flanked gardens and
sleepovers in its timelessly classic guest
rooms or Victorian-era cottages. Even if
you’re not staying over, the afternoon tea
in the chequerboard-floored lounge is
worth dropping in for – it features a
one-hundred-options-strong tea list
curated by South Africa’s first and only
tea sommelier.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
LEFT: Chef Nolukhanyo
Dube-Cele of Seven
Colours Eatery and her
cuisine; street art; looking
up at the mountains;
colourful street scenes;
Tapi Tapi ice cream and its
creator, Tapiwa Guzha

delicious.com.au 171
CITY GUIDE.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

LEFT: TTK Fledgelings
cuisine, chef Nathan and
decor; chef Mmabatho
Molefe at Emazulwini,
cuisine and ingredients;
Mount Nelson, A Belmond
Hotel; homewares
at Always Welcome

impossible-to-book fine diner that closed

in 2021 after 11 years in the business),
Fledgelings functions as a training kitchen
for promising young chefs who, under the
guidance of Dale-Roberts or head chef
Dylan Frayne, learn to forge a career in
hospitality. The a la carte menu is a lot more
casual than its haute cuisine predecessor,
but no less enticing: expect fish of the
day with fennel salad, pickled saffron and
dehydrated feta; pork belly dressed with
fig and truffle; and sushi created with
the help of a former Nobu chef.

WHERE TO SHOP
The Old Biscuit Mill is also home to some
of Cape Town’s smartest shops. Imiso
Ceramics specialises in plates and pottery
by co-founders Andile Dyalvane and Zizipho

172 delicious.com.au
 THE DETAILS

WHERE Cape Town is

South Africa’s legislative
capital. It’s a port
city, located on the
southwest coast.
BEST TIME TO VISIT
For sun-seekers, the best
time to visit is during
summer (December -
March). If you prefer
hiking or winery visits, the
shoulder seasons during
April and November are
best. For the best price,
opt for June to November
KEY ATTRACTIONS

Poswa, two Cape Town-based

ceramicists drawing inspiration from
the rituals and traditions of the Xhosa
people from the Eastern Cape. Nearby,
the white-and-wood showroom FIELDS
sells sustainably-made menswear in bold
colours and sharp silhouettes, while
ROWDY is a top spot to pick up well-
priced backpacks and totes from
free-range leather sourced from
a tannery in Namibia.
In an 18th-century heritage house on
Shortmarket Street, homeware specialist
Always Welcome celebrates South
African designers with a beautifully
curated mix of light fixtures,
contemporary art pieces and wooden
furniture. The mock living rooms upstairs
are great for window shopping, while
you’ll find suitcase-friendly items such
as scented candles, textiles and glass
accessories in the souvenir shop on the
ground floor (the earrings and bracelets
by Pichulik are another eye catcher,
but you’ll find a bigger collection at
the brand’s flagship store on nearby
Watson Street). Next door, uber-cool
surf shop Mami Wata sells African-made
surf gear to, in their words, improve
‘afrosurfanomics’ – their way of
strengthening the local surf community.
Even if you’re not a surfer, hop by to
pick up tees with eye-popping graphics,
boldly patterned swimming trunks, and
limited-edition sneaker collaborations.

DELICIOUS.COM.AU/TRAVEL For more enticing destinations to inspire intrepid foodies.

INDEX
— December 2023/
January 2024

STARTERS, SIDES
& LIGHT MEALS
Baby squid and ruby grapefruit salad
with red chilli dressing...................... p 71
Barbecued Moreton Bay bugs with
53
kombu butter ................................... p 54
Bitter leaves with grapefruit and Leftover turkey roulade sandwiches .. p 109
hazelnuts (V) ................................... p 123 Mortadella skewers with pine syrup .... p 82
Broad bean, pea & smoked stracciatella Oysters with lemon balm mignonette .. p 64
salad (V) .......................................... p 120 Parsnip, orange & vadouvan gratin ..... p 78
Broccoli tabbouleh (V) ....................... p 101 Potato rosti with cultured cream
Coleslaw with pickled pepperberry and bottarga .................................. p 123
cherries (V) ....................................... p 93 Prawn cocktail board ........................... p 88
Fig & jamon salad ................................ p 81 Pumpkin with Shropshire blue
Fish kebabs with Caspian olive custard (V) ...................................... p 123
& walnut sauce ............................... p 103 Risoni, garden pea & chorizo salad ..... p 54
Fried cauliflower with caramelised onion, Roasted prawns with yuzu and kosho
currants and pine nuts (V) ................ p 98 butter................................................ p 64
Grilled asparagus, preserved lemon Roast cabbage with rose petal
& goat’s cheese (V) ........................ p 120 muhammara (V) .............................. p 120
Grilled blue mackerel with ‘nduja Smoked kingfish salad with tamarind “This dish is one
butter................................................ p 64 dressing ............................................ p 17
Grilled broccolini with macadamia cream Steak tartare ......................................... p 81
of my many crowd
and sweet & sour currants (V) .......... p 62 The quail that Anthony Bourdain ate .. p 103 pleasers. It’s fresh
Ham, cheese & egg buckwheat Tiger prawn milk buns.......................... p 53 and comforting
galette .............................................p 115 Tomato & pomegranate salad (V)........ p 40
Jansson’s frestelse (Jansson’s Tomato salad with crispy capers and
at the same time.”
temptation) ....................................... p 91 croutons (V) ...................................... p 62 — A DA M D ’ S Y LVA

174 delicious.com.au
 INDEX.

MAINS SWEET THINGS

Barbecued ham with nectarine glaze ... p 53 Almond & cardamom kipferl.............. p 133
Crispy fried snapper with coconut Black sticky rice with mango & salted
caramel ............................................ p 18 coconut cream.................................. p 72
Croatian-style suckling pig .................. p 91 Brown butter & muscovado pryaniki .. p 130
Cumquat-glazed ham with pickled Chocolate & gingerbread tarts.......... p 148
cumquats and salad ........................p 115 Chocolate cake topped with Swiss “Over the top for all the
Lechon paksiw (Filipino pork stew) .....p 114 meringue cloud .............................. p 137
Filipino roasted pork belly with cherry Christmas cake ..................................... p 44
right reasons, with that
palapa ..............................................p 114 Christmas pudding .............................. p 92 moreish festive flavour
Fried spiced chicken in salted Cranberry, marzipan & white chocolate of spicy ginger – one
plum sauce ....................................... p 72 Christbrot buns ............................... p 129
Grilled coconut chicken with green Espresso chocolate truffles with
piece is never enough!”
papaya salad .................................... p 74 honey & vanilla ............................... p 137 — T R AC E Y PAT T I S O N
Scallops & crispy pork belly with mint Filipino mango float ............................. p 94
& pickled eschalot ............................ p 17 Gingerbread & eggnog sponge ........ p 147 Please turn over to continue...
Spaghettini with spanner crab and
zucchini ............................................. p 18
Standing rib roast beef with Nanna’s
gravy ............................................... p 108
Sweet potato & lentil nut roast (V) ..... p 113
Turkey breast roulade with cranberry
stuffing ........................................... p 109
Vegan ragu pasta (V)...........................p 113

18
INDEX.

DRINKS & EXTRAS

Aussie vermouth highball .................... p 64
Beef sausage rolls .............................. p 108
Chicken liver pâté with cranberry jelly .. p 54
Classic cocktail sauce ........................... p 37
Classic stuffing ..................................... p 34
Easy Asian dressing ............................. p 36
Festive salad dressing .......................... p 37
Harissa creme fraiche with smoked
mussels and crisps ........................... p 38
Hibiscus iced tea ................................ p 100
Hummus ............................................... p 98
Illawarra plum & cranberry Champagne
cocktail ............................................. p 88
Lebanese lemonade .......................... p 100
Minced lamb and pine nut ................... p 98
Minced prawn and coriander............. p 100
No-cook mango chutney ..................... p 35
Passionfruit spritz ................................. p 53
Rich brown onion & mushroom gravy .. p 35
Roast chicken rillettes........................... p 82
Tropical un-punch ................................ p 88

53 Ultimate creamy dressing with

roasted garlic.................................... p 37
Use-it-up green chilli and herb salsa ... p 36

— TO M G O R R I N G E
Gingerbread & orange trifle .............. p 151 Pavlova wreath with mango cream OFFICIAL TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIER:
Gingerbread layer cake with preserved and passionfruit mint syrup.............. p 66 Our meat is supplied by Vic’s Meat:
ginger syrup ................................... p 144 Pineapple white chocolate nougat .... p 138 vicsmeat.com.au
Gingerbread pav with sour cherry Pistazienringe (Pistachio rings) ........... p 133
sorbet .............................................. p 42 Rocky road chocolate cake ................ p 141 RECIPE COOKING TIMES: Every recipe
Gingerbread sticks ............................. p 147 Sachertorte with apricot compote ..... p 126 is tested in the delicious. test kitchen to our
Jammy jewel cookies ........................ p 130 Strawberry trifle with white chocolate rigorous standards, however, outcomes can
Jewelled pistachio & cherry chocolate mousse ........................................... p 138 vary depending on individual oven makes
snowflakes ...................................... p 141 Summer fruit with lime & chilli salt ....... p 74 and models and the cookware used.
Linzer cookie wreath .......................... p 130 Tropical fruit in citrus syrup with
Mango, passionfruit & white chocolate pandan granita ................................. p 74
trifle ................................................... p 57
No-bake gingerbread & blackberry
cream cake ..................................... p 151

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 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
LEFT: Alessandro Pavoni;
Sirmione on Lake Garda;
Langosteria, Milan

— Northern Italy
There’s no place like home for
Alessandro Pavoni. The chef waxes
lyrical about this stunning region.

Lombardy is where I’m from; my family

and friends are still there. I try to go Groppello della Valtenesi and the
back every year, and am lucky that I’m southern vineyards of Bardolino and
able to do this. My great friend (and Lugana. There are several routes that
fellow chef) Giovanni Pilu and I go to wind through the wine production areas,
a different region of Italy each year taking you on a journey to discover the
with a small group of foodies to host flavours and scents of the territory.
behind-the-scenes food tours – it’s lots What to do: The villages in the area
of fun and also means I get to see a lot are beautiful, and each has its own
of my home country. Lombardy is my personality. On Lake Garda, there are
home though, and where my heart is. for grains and rice. But then 20 minutes three regions with different peculiarities,
Lombardy is down the road is Lake Garda, which landscapes and cultures, all of which
such an interesting region. The thing has, strangely, an almost Mediterranean affect local cuisine and gastronomic
I love about it is the sheer variety of climate and is famous for its fish, traditions. Salò is a beautiful town on the
foods due to the incredible difference olives, lemons and white wine! lake where shopping is a must, as well
in climates, such as the mountains for Where to stay: There’s Milan, which is so as an aperitivo and a stroll before dinner.
rich, heavy foods like game meats, cosmopolitan, with really good shopping, Limone is the northernmost town on the
polenta and butter and the plains luxury hotels, and the Duomo to visit of Brescia side (my side!) and the town is
course. You can spend the day walking so unique – it’s in the mountains, but falls
the city, watching the people and the into the lake. It’s beautiful to walk though
fashion. Italians always dress well! And the old streets. Then there’s Sirmione
the restaurants in Milan are world class! for a day trip – you simply must! It’s on
Drop by Langosteria, for example. a peninsula, Roman-built, with thermal
Franciacorta is Italy’s Champagne; the springs and more. It’s unforgettable.
region is full of little villages, picturesque
driving routes and absolutely wonderful
wines. But, I think my favourite part of the
world to visit on holiday is Lago di Garda.
Where to eat and drink: There are so
many great restaurants to go to, ranging
from casual to Michelin-starred. Try
Trattoria Marietta for fabulous gourmet
pizza. Ask if Chef Freddi is in, and tell
him Alessandro Pavoni from Australia sent
you. My all-time favourite is Lido 84,
and I try to visit every time I’m in the area.
They are incredibly passionate, skilled and
creative, not to mention it’s the most
beautiful venue, right on the lake. Book
well in advance – it’s hard to get in, but
worth the effort. There are also excellent DELICIOUS.COM.AU/TRAVEL
wines produced in the Garda wine areas: For more travel ideas from
nosiola, merlot, cabernet, Garda Classico, Australia and around the world.

178 delicious.com.au | FOLLOW ME: @alexpavoni