Family Handyman Quick & Easy Projects

Family Handyman

Whole House Quick & Easy Projects

Over 100 Weekend Projects!

A NOTE TO OUR READERS: All do-it-yourself activities involve a degree of risk. Skills, materials, tools and site conditions vary widely. Although the editors have made every effort to ensure accuracy, the reader remains responsible for the selection and use of tools, materials and methods. Always obey local codes and laws, follow manufacturer instructions and observe safety precautions.

SAFETY FIRST–ALWAYS!

Tackling home improvement projects and repairs can be endlessly rewarding. But as most of us know, with the rewards come risks. DIYers use chain saws, climb ladders and tear into walls that can contain big, hazardous surprises.

The good news is that armed with the right knowledge, tools and procedures, homeowners can minimize risk. As you go about your projects and repairs, stay alert for these hazards:

Aluminum wiring

Aluminum wiring, installed in about 7 million homes between 1965 and 1973, requires special techniques and materials to make safe connections. This wiring is dull gray, not the dull orange characteristic of copper. Hire a licensed electrician certified to work with it. For more information, go to cpsc.gov

and search for aluminum wiring.

Spontaneous combustion

Rags saturated with oil finishes, like Danish oil and linseed oil, and oil-based paints and stains can spontaneously combust if left bunched up. Always dry them outdoors, spread out loosely. When the oil has thoroughly dried, you can safely throw the rags in the trash.

Vision and hearing protection

Safety glasses or goggles should be worn whenever you’re working on DIY projects that involve chemicals, dust or anything that could shatter or chip off and hit your eye. Sounds louder than 80 decibels (dB) are considered potentially dangerous. Sound levels from a lawn mower can be 90 dB and from shop tools and chain saws can be 90 to 100 dB.

Lead paint

If your home was built before 1979, it may contain lead paint, which is a serious health hazard, especially for children six and under. Take precautions when you scrape or remove it. Contact your public health department for detailed safety information or call (800) 424-LEAD (5323) to receive an information pamphlet. Or visit epa.gov/lead

.

Buried utilities

A few days before you dig in your yard, have your underground water, gas and electrical lines marked. Just call 811 or go to call811.com.

Smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) alarms

The risk of dying in reported home structure fires is cut in half in homes with working smoke alarms. Test your smoke alarms every month, replace batteries as necessary and replace units that are more than 10 years old. As you make your home more energy efficient and airtight, existing ducts and chimneys can’t always successfully vent combustion gases, including potentially deadly carbon monoxide (CO). Install a UL-listed CO detector, and test your CO and smoke alarms at the same time.

Five-gallon buckets and window-covering cords

Anywhere from 10 to 40 children a year drown in five-gallon buckets, according to the U.S. Consumer Products Safety Commission. Always store empty buckets upside down and ones containing liquid with the covers securely snapped.

According to Parents for Window Blind Safety, hundreds of children in the United States are injured every year after becoming entangled in looped window-treatment cords. For more information, visit pfwbs.org.

Working up high

If you have to get up on your roof to do a repair or installation, always install roof brackets and wear a roof harness.

Asbestos

Texture sprayed on ceilings before 1978, adhesives and tiles for vinyl and asphalt floors before 1980, and vermiculite insulation (with gray granules) all may contain asbestos. Other building materials made between 1940 and 1980 could also contain asbestos. If you suspect that materials you’re removing or working around contain asbestos, contact your health department or visit epa.gov

/asbestos for information.

Learn More

For additional information about home safety, visit homesafetycouncil.org

. This site offers helpful information about dozens of home safety issues.

Chapter one

Windows & Doors

Window planter

Window AC care

Apply heat-reducing window film

Remove a heavy door

Rattling doors

Interior door repairs

Install a new front door

How to fix a dead doorbell

Need new windows?

Stop patio door drafts

Mask pet claw scratches

Paint a panel door

Beef up entry door security

Great Goofs

Chapter two

Backyard

Rebar plant cage

Classic backyard bench

Plant markers

Simple timber bench

Stepping-stone path

Fold-up grill table

Backyard spring

Concrete patio cover-up

Sharper mower blades, made easy

Outdoor dog kennel

Self-watering raised plant bed

One-day patio pond

Build a compost bin

Fix sunken patio pavers

Build a rain barrel

Raised-bed border

Caulk cracked concrete

Sprinkler system fixes

Privacy trellis with planters

Great Goofs

Chapter three

Kitchen & Bathroom

6 kitchen storage upgrades

Install a new sink and faucet

One-morning medicine cabinet

Simple bathroom shelf

Vanity improvements

Divider for upright storage

Hidden cutting board

Space-saving wine rack

Space-saving knife rack

Mosaic backsplash

Metal panels for cabinet doors

Drawer in a drawer

Cutting board rack

New life for old countertops

Convert wood cabinet doors to glass

Great Goofs

Chapter four

Garage & Workshop

Organize your garage in one morning

Circular saw jigs for table saw-quality cuts

Garage floor coverings

Bomb-proof woodworking bench

Yard tool slant rack

Compact compressor station

Saw blade roost

Hardware organizer

Mobile tool chest

A classic workbench

Build a rolling shop cart

Tool tote

Folding sawhorse with built-in shelf

Tape caddy

Chisel pockets

Make your garage floor last

Great Goofs

Chapter five

Floors

Squeaky floor fix using caulk

Stain or seal a concrete floor

Install a floating wood floor

Stop stair squeaks

Damage prevention

Curling vinyl cure

Tile over a vinyl floor

Pull wrinkles out of your carpet

Great Goofs

Chapter six

Walls & Ceilings

How to paint a ceiling

Hang pictures straight and level

Prep problem walls for painting

Space-saving wall niche

Custom picture ledges

Trim painting tips

Paint a room in a day

Great Goofs

Chapter seven

Furniture & Shelving

Coat & hat rack

Light-duty table

Multipurpose shelves

Stone-top table

Magnetic office supplies holder

Magazine stand

Knock-apart table

Super simple bookcase

Adjustable spice shelf

Two-story closet shelves

Stacked recycling tower

DIY upholstery

Entry bench

Rolling storage box

Shelf tower

Easy-to-build shoe storage

Sturdy, stable stool

Fast furniture fixes

Great Goofs

Special section

Three-Day projects

Showcase wall

Build the best-ever garage storage shelves

Build a long-lasting retaining wall

Project Index

CHAPTER ONE

WINDOWS & DOORS

Window planter

Window AC care

Apply heat-reducing window film

Remove a heavy door

Rattling doors

Interior door repairs

Install a new front door

How to fix a dead doorbell

Need new windows?

Stop patio door drafts

Mask pet claw scratches

Paint a panel door

Beef up entry door security

Great Goofs

Window planter

You can build and finish several of these simple window planters in a day.

WHAT IT TAKES

TIME

2 hours

COST

Less than $50

SKILL LEVEL

Beginner

TOOLS

Compass, drill, Speed square, jig saw, 5-gallon pail lid

Cut the 1x10 and 1x3 to length (see photos for dimensions). Pot diameters vary, so size the holes by scribing and cutting out a 6-in. circle from cardboard to ensure that the pot will rest on its rim (Photo 1

). Keep testing until you find the size. Then lay out and cut the openings.

Use a 5-gallon pail lid to scribe bracket curves (Photo 2

). Make sure the grain runs parallel to the shelf for strength. Smooth off the rough edges and paint the parts before you assemble—especially if you want the two-tone look. Then screw the parts together with 2-in. exterior screws.

Mount the shelf to the wall by screwing through the hanging strip into the wall framing.

1 Mark the 6-in.-diameter holes with a compass. Then drill 1/2-in. starter holes and cut out the openings with a jigsaw.

2 Mark the notch for the hanging strip and both 1-1/4-in. ends on the brackets. Draw the curve and cut the openings with a jigsaw.

3 Predrill and screw the hanging strip to the brackets. Then center and screw the shelf to the brackets and to the hanging strip.

Window AC care

Most people assume warm air from their AC unit means it’s low on refrigerant. That is not always the cause.

WHAT IT TAKES

TIME

1 hour

COST

Less than $50

SKILL LEVEL

Beginner

TOOLS

Fin comb, screwdriver

Many times, window and through-the-wall AC units can’t blow cold air because the evaporator and condenser coils or cooling fins are clogged. You can clean a window unit yourself in about an hour. Here’s how to clean your window AC unit.

First remove the plastic filter holder/trim panel. It usually snaps off. Then remove the AC from the window or slide it out of the wall (get help—it’s heavy). If you’re working on a window unit, remove the mounting frame and case. The case screws are usually located along the bottom edge. Note the location of any odd-length screws since they have to go back in the same spots upon reassembly.

Then straighten the bent cooling fins with a fin comb (Photo 1

). Buy two cans of AC coil cleaner. Vacuum all visible buildup from both coils (Photo 2

). Then spray both coils with the cleaner (Photo 3

).

While the foam works, clean fan blades with household cleaner and a rag. If the fan motor has plastic- or rubber-capped oiling ports, pop them and squeeze in a few drops of electric motor oil (pros use the Zoom-Spout oiler).

Wash (or replace) the air filter and reinstall the unit. You will be pleased to note that your hard work has left it much cleaner and more efficient than before.

1 Comb out the mats. Match the correct end of the fin comb to the fin spacing on your coils. Insert the comb and pull up to straighten the fins. Wear leather gloves to prevent nasty cuts.

2 Clean out the crud. Suck up all the spider webs, leaves, dust and dirt before you spray the coils.

3 Apply a foam cleaner. Shoot the spray over the entire surface of both coils and let the foam do the work for you. If the buildup is heavy, brush in the direction of the fins with a nylon-bristle brush.

4 Service the fan motor. Pop off the plastic or rubber caps on the motor’s oiling ports. Then squeeze a few drops into each port and recap.

Apply heat-reducing window film

Heat-control window film will help keep a room cooler, and you can install it yourself.

WHAT IT TAKES

TIME

30 minutes

COST

$50-$100

SKILL LEVEL

Beginner

TOOLS

Scissors, blow dryer

These films reflect the sun’s heat and ultraviolet rays, and they reduce glare without obscuring the view. The more direct sunlight coming through the window, the more the film will help (and it may lower your air-conditioning bills!).

Applying the film takes approximately 30 minutes per window. The film should last about 10 years. Prices vary with film size and type of film. A film sized to cover two to three windows costs anywhere from $8 to $50 and up, depending on type. The film is sold at home centers and hardware stores. Different types of film are available, so get the one designed for heat control. The film can be applied to any window, including double-pane low-e windows, although they already reduce radiant heat loss and gain.

One drawback is that the film may void the manufacturer’s warranty for the seal on double-pane windows, although the film shouldn’t affect the seal. If the window warranty has already expired or reducing excessive heat is more important to you than possibly jeopardizing a warranty, then apply the film. Otherwise, consider other options, such as installing shades, awnings or shutters over the windows or planting a tree on the west side to block the sun.

Heat-control film is composed of treated micro-thin layers of film that block ultraviolet rays and reduce the summer heat that comes through the window.

Window film can be installed in about 30 minutes. The hazy appearance will disappear after 10 days.

Remove a heavy door

Follow these instructions to keep your fingers from getting pinched.

WHAT IT TAKES

TIME

5 minutes

COST

$0

SKILL LEVEL

Beginner

TOOLS & MATERIALS

Hammer, pry bar, flat-head screwdriver

To make this job go smoothly, first close and latch the door. Then remove the hinge pins by tapping on the bottom of each hinge pin with a nail (Photo 1

). Don’t try to drive the pins all the way out with the nail—you might damage the trim with the hammer. After the pins pop up an inch or so, try pulling them free with your fingers. If they’re stubborn, just drive up on the underside near the knuckle with a flat-head screwdriver (Photo 2

). Slide a piece of cardboard under the door to protect the floor, then ease the door off the hinges by lifting slightly at the knob with one hand and under one of the hinges with the other hand (Photo 3

). If the weight of the door makes it difficult to separate the hinges, wedge a pry bar under the door to take weight off the hinges.

To put the door back on the hinges, grab the door at the center and tip it slightly toward the top, engaging the knuckles of the top hinge. With the weight of the door hanging on the top hinge, work the others together. Push a hinge pin into whichever lines up first, then tap in the remaining pins. If one of the hinges seems slightly low and the others won’t fit together, place a pry bar under the center of the door and—with the lowest set of hinge leaves engaged—lever the door up until the other hinge leaves fit together (Photo 4

).

Close the door most of the way and hold it firmly for this step—the pry bar may try to push the door in or out as well as up.

1 Close the door and tap the hinge pins loose with a hammer and nail.

2 Tap the pin up until it’s loose enough to pull out.

3 Open the door partway and pull it to the side so it drops off the hinges.

4 Replace the door on the hinges, using a pry bar if necessary to get the hinge leaves to fit together.

Rattling doors

A door will rattle when there’s too much space between the door and the door stop. The solution is to reduce or remove the gap.

FIX A: MOVE THE STOP

Knock the door stop flush with a hammer and a scrap piece of wood. If the stop is more than 1/16 in. out of whack, you may end up with an unfinished spot where the door stop used to be, especially on painted doors. Add a couple of brads or finish nails to the stop if it’s a door that gets slammed.

FIX B: BEND THE STRIKE PLATE TAB

Many strike plates have an adjustable tab. Some of these tangs can be adjusted in place with a regular flat-head screwdriver. Others need to be removed and adjusted with pliers or an adjustable wrench. The more you bend the tab toward the door, the farther the door has to travel before it is able to latch shut.

FIX C: FILL THE GAP WITH A BUMPER

Another simple fix is to install a cabinet door pad/bumper on the part of the door stop that contacts the door. Felt, cork or rubber will all work fine.

Cabinet bumpers vary in thickness, so check out the size of the gap between the slab and the stop before you head to the home center. You’ll find the bumpers you need near the cabinet hardware section (although you can also find them online from several retailers).

Interior door repairs

Even if your door has been binding for years, we’ll show you how to repair it quickly and inexpensively.

PROBLEM A: DOOR BINDS ALONG BOTTOM EDGE

If the door rubs on the latch-side bottom edge, look for fastener failure. In most cases, the lower jamb has shifted or pulled loose from its nails, resulting in an out-of-plumb opening. To reset the jamb, pry away the bottom section of casing and renail the jamb (Photo A

). If there are no shims, install them if necessary to allow for a 1/8-in. gap between the closed door and the jamb. Then nail with 10d casing nails and tack the casing back into place.

Pry out the inside casing with a stiff putty knife, then drive a 10d casing nail through the jamb and existing shim into the trimmer stud. Punch the nail slightly below the wood surface with a nail set, then putty the hole, sand the surface smooth and refinish with varnish or paint.

PROBLEM B: DOOR BINDS ALONG ENTIRE EDGE

If the door is binding along the length of the latch-side edge and other fixes haven’t helped, the door has probably swollen from high humidity. First check to make sure all the edges are either painted or varnished. When a door isn’t sealed on all four edges, moisture can enter and swell it as much as 1/4 in. If your door isn’t well sealed, wait for the dry season to see if it will shrink back to a good fit. Then seal it with a primer/paint or stain/varnish combo.

If you want immediate results, you’ll have to remove the door from its hinges and plane or sand down the latch side, removing just enough material so it can shut smoothly once again (Photo B

). Remove as little as possible to ensure a tight fit, then seal unfinished edges with paint or varnish.

With the door installed, mark the trim line with tape, using the jamb as a guide. Then remove the door, support it and sand it down to the tape with a belt sander.

To support the work, we used a clamping-style workbench to hold the door on end and adhered masking tape to the rubbing edge as a guide for the belt sander. Once you rehang the door and are happy with the fit, make sure you reseal the sanded edge to keep out moisture.

CAUTIONARY INSTRUCTIONS

If your home was built before 1978, the paint may contain lead, a hazardous material. Either have it tested (contact your local health department for testing labs) or follow safe scraping and sanding techniques. Dispose of the waste according to local regulations.

A bright, shiny new door is just a couple of days away.

Install a new front door

Here you’ll learn how to order a door that’ll fit like a glove. Then you’ll learn, step by step, how to get your old door out and the new one in.

WHAT IT TAKES

TIME

1 day

COST

More than $500

SKILL LEVEL

Intermediate

TOOLS

Hammer, pry bar, tape measure, level, caulking gun, utility knife, drill, nail set, saw, miter saw (optional)

Materials List

It’s not often you can complete a project in a weekend that will save you money and dramatically improve the looks of your house. But that’s what will happen when you replace a worn, drafty front door with a stylish, energy-efficient new one. And since each new door comes prehung in a weather-stripped frame, you don’t have to be a master carpenter to do a first-class job.

If you can handle basic carpentry tasks, you’ll have no trouble installing a new prehung door in a day. Figure on another day to finish the details and to start painting the door. You can complete most of the job with basic hand tools. You’ll need a hammer, pry bar, tape measure, level, utility knife, nail set and saw. If you decide to install new interior trim, you’ll also need a miter saw.

Most new doors come prehung, which means the jamb, door and trim are already assembled. This makes replacing your old door much faster.

For this installation, a top-quality prehung wood door (Simpson Bungalow No. 7228) was ordered from a local lumberyard. Including the special 2-1/2-in.-wide exterior trim (casing), the total cost was $1,100. You could purchase a steel or fiberglass door for much less, but the style and crisp detailing of the wood door matched the house perfectly. The door arrived about two weeks after it was ordered.

MEASURE YOUR OLD DOOR

In most cases, simply order a new door the same size as the old one. If you alter the size or add sidelights, you’ll have to reframe the opening and alter many details. This usually doubles or triples the size of the job. Here are the four sets of measurements you’ll need to order a door.

For door size, measure the width and height of your old door. Round these up to full inches to find the size of the replacement door you’ll need. If, for example, your door measures 35-3/4 in. wide and 79-1/2 in. tall, you’ll order a 36 in. by 80 in. door.

For jamb width, measure from the back side of the interior trim to the back side of the exterior trim (Figure A

). Specify this jamb width when you order your new prehung door. This guarantees that the interior trim will fit flush to the wall without adding jamb extensions.

Remove the interior trim to get accurate measurements of the rough opening. Measure the opening width between framing members and from the bottom of the sill to the top of the opening. Compare these measurements to the rough opening requirements of your new door to make sure it fits.

For the exterior opening (or masonry opening if you have a brick or stone door surround), measure to the outsides of the exterior casing and then from the bottom of the sill to the top of the trim. Compare these measurements with those of a prehung door that has standard 2-in.-wide brick molding trim. If the framed door with standard trim is too small to completely fill the space or if you want a different trim style, you have three options. The best solution is to order a door with wider, flat casing to fit the opening. You can always add a piece of decorative molding overtop to approximate the style of your existing exterior trim. (Here 2-1/2-in. flat casing was ordered and the existing decorative molding was reinstalled.) Second, you can order your door with standard molding and fill the gap with additional strips of wood. The last option is to order the door without exterior molding and make your own to fit.

START BY TEARING OUT YOUR OLD DOOR AND PREPARING THE OPENING

Photos 1

– 4

show how to take out the old door and frame. If you plan to reuse the interior moldings, pull the nails through the back side with pliers or a nipper to avoid damaging the face. Cutting through one side jamb makes it easy to tear out the entire frame (Photo 4

).

After the door frame is out, check the condition of the framing and the subflooring in the sill area. Cut out and replace any rotted wood. If the sill on your new door is thinner than the one you removed, you may have to build up the sill area as shown in Photo 5

. Set the sill height so the door just clears your carpeting or rugs when it swings inward.

Photo 6

shows how to