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    Family Handyman Trade Secrets: Fix Your Home Like a Pro!
    Family Handyman Trade Secrets: Fix Your Home Like a Pro!
    Family Handyman Trade Secrets: Fix Your Home Like a Pro!
    Ebook1,103 pages6 hours

    Family Handyman Trade Secrets: Fix Your Home Like a Pro!

    By Editors of Reader's Digest

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    About this ebook

    We all have household projects that we keep putting off because we don’t quite know how to go about doing them or we simply don’t have the time. Now, Trade Secrets can help you shorten your to-do list by teaching you how to complete those projects quickly, safely and effectively. This book will walk you through big projects and also provide tips and tricks that will make the jobs simpler. The tips and techniques include:

     
    • Putting together a kit of essential tools
    • Tips on basic wall repair
    • Understand how to choose and install proper blinds
    • How to repair holes in plaster
    • How to hang a heavy picture
    • Tips for sanding a large area
    • How to build a home theater system
    • The basics of upholstery
    • Common exterior paint problems and solutions
    • How to sharpen a mower blade
    • Fixing a sluggish garage door
    • Understand how to choose and install proper blinds

     

    Next time you have a project to do around the house, just check Trade Secrets for the proper procedure to follow, tools to use and tricks to speed and improve your work. You’ll be done in no time and your house will look better than ever.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherTrusted Media Brands
    Release dateJun 14, 2012
    ISBN9781606524886
    Family Handyman Trade Secrets: Fix Your Home Like a Pro!
    Author

    Editors of Reader's Digest

    A trusted friend in a complicated world, Reader’s Digest is all about being real. Considered America's most trusted brand, Reader’s Digest simplifies and enriches lives by discovering and sharing fascinating stories, interesting ideas and exceptional experiences in addition to advice on health, home, family, food and finance. Looking for something to tickle your funny bone as well? Reader’s Digest has just what the doctor ordered. Our content is delivered in multi-platforms including print, digital, books, and home entertainment products.

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      Book preview

      Family Handyman Trade Secrets - Editors of Reader's Digest

      Introduction

      Have you ever paid a repairman lots of money to do a job you later realized you could have done yourself? If only you'd had a little more confidence and a bit of practical guidance you could have built that shelf, installed that window or fixed that wonky cabinet door, and not only saved some money but boosted your self esteem as well.

      Building, repairing and decorating have been part of human DNA since we first built shelter so don't be surprised if you hear a little voice in your head saying, Go on! You can do it, it can't be that hard, when something needs doing around your home.

      And it isn't that hard. Although some more complex jobs are best left to the experts, there are so many day-to-day home repairs, maintenance and improvements that you can master with just a few tricks of the trade.

      This is why we created Trade Secrets. Many DIY publications are quite technical and complicated, with a high level of assumed knowledge, leaving many would-be-home handy-people floundering in alien terminology and confusing diagrams.

      This commonsense guide to everyday home maintenance, repairs and decorating is not that kind of book. It tells you how to go about a task, what to use and how to use it—the way a professional would. You won't need to turn this book upside down with your tongue protruding from the side of your mouth to make sense of the many photos, illustrations and tips.

      Trade Secrets fills the gap between Haven't got a clue and Almost a pro and empowers the enthusiastic amateur to fulfill his or her destiny.

      So get off that couch and get to work! There's no job in Trade Secrets that you can't do if you apply the easy-to-follow advice and set your mind to it.

      Every journey starts with a small step. Make that little voice go away.

      The DIY editors of Reader's Digest

      The essential toolkit

      A surprisingly small number of tools can cope with a wide range of repair and maintenance jobs around the house. Keep these tools together in a lightweight toolbox or bag, and you will save both time and effort whenever something needs fixing.

      1. The toolbox

      To start with, choose a light but robust plastic case with a lift-out tray for small tools. Avoid metal toolboxes; they are heavy to carry around and they rust.

      2. Screwdrivers

      Screws have head recesses of various sizes and types, so screwdriver sets make sense. Those with a master handle that accepts the different bits can save space.

      3. Putty knives

      Simply a handle with a flexible steel blade, for applying filler. Buy 1 in. (2.5 cm) and 2 in. (5 cm) knives for everyday use. Don't confuse it with a scraper, which has a stiffer blade.

      4. Saw

      A compact or toolbox saw with fine-point hardened teeth will handle all sorts of household woodwork jobs such as trimming cleats or cutting a shelf to length.

      5. Hacksaw

      Hacksaws are designed to cut metal, but will also cut through plastic—a curtain rod, for example—and small wood sections. The saw can be inexpensive, but the replaceable blades should be good quality.

      6. Hammers and nail punch

      You will need a 16 oz. (450 g) claw hammer, which is fine for most DIY jobs, and possibly a smaller 8–12 oz. (225–350 g) model for lighter or finishing work. Also buy a nail punch, used to drive nail heads below the wood surface.

      7. Knife

      A utility knife with replaceable blades is a DIY essential. There are different blades available: for easy jobs such as paper and plastic sheeting, or for tougher materials such as carpet and linoleum. Choose a knife with a retractable blade—it's safer.

      8. Pliers

      The serrated jaws of pliers are useful for gripping, twisting and cutting wire, and for straightening bent metal.

      9. Cutting pliers

      Cutting pliers are designed for pulling out tacks and nails—from floorboards, for example—but can also be put to other tasks, such as removing picture hooks without damaging the wall, or as a ceramic tile cutter.

      10. Cable, pipe and stud detector

      Look for one that detects electrical cables and plumbing pipes buried in house walls, plus ceiling joists and the wood framing inside a partition wall.

      11. Level

      A 24-in. (60 cm)-long level will handle inside jobs such as fitting shelves and hanging pictures. Outdoor jobs such as erecting privacy screens, posts and fences may require a longer version.

      12. Tape measure

      An ideal size is a 16 ft. (5 m) steel tape, which will cope with measuring up a room as well as smaller jobs. Some have both centimeter/meter and inch/foot markings, so if need be, you can use the tape as a conversion device.

      13. Drill

      A cordless drill/screwdriver, about 12 volts, with rechargeable batteries is a must. It should have forward and reverse, fast and slow speeds, and be comfortable and not too heavy to handle.

      14. Drill bits

      Look for a set that includes masonry, high-speed steel twist and brad-point bits (for wood), as well as a range of screwdriver bits. Drill bit sets often come with the electric drill.

      15. Caulking gun

      This inexpensive tool is needed for extruding the contents of the many ready-to-use fillers, sealants and adhesives sold in standard-sized cartridges.

      16. Hand staple gun

      Choose one that can handle flat staples for jobs such as fastening webbing, fabric or netting, as well as curved staples for speaker and low-voltage cables.

      17. Adjustable wrench

      Look for an adjustable wrench that opens up to about 1¼ in. (3 cm)—good for plumbing fixtures, and smaller nuts, too. Buy a reputable brand; the jaws on cheap tools may slip or jam.

      18. Vice-grip pliers

      This versatile tool can be used like a pair of pliers or as a makeshift extra wrench. It has adjustable, lockable jaws that will clamp firmly and hold different-shaped objects.

      Tool organization

      Here is a handful of clever ideas that will help you save time and money while keeping your enthusiasm high.

      When you need to drill into tough materials such as concrete and masonry, use a masonry bit with a carbide tip.

      ◘ Tool bucket bags

      You can buy these bags that hang in a sturdy bucket, or make your own by riveting a couple of canvas toolbelts to the rim of a bucket. Popular alternatives are bucket-or briefcase-shaped tote bags with lots of compartments.

      ◘ Mobile workbench

      Ever wish you had a lightweight, mobile workbench? Here's the answer. Screw a length of MDF to an old ironing board and you'll have a handy workbench that can be moved easily and adjusts to whatever height you need to work comfortably. Remember, lightweight work only.

      ◘ Color-coded chargers

      Strips of colored masking or duct tape take the confusion out of pairing cordless tools with their chargers. No more matching by trial and error.

      ◘ Handy pants

      Don't throw out those old, battered and splattered work pants. Cut off the legs and the front section, leaving just the back pockets and waistband. Load up the back pockets, snap or button it on—pockets facing front—and you've got yourself a useful apron. The side pockets offer more storage.

      Drills and drilling

      An electric drill, preferably cordless, is often the most-used tool in the box. The following tips will help to get the job done safely and quickly.

      ◘ Fitting drill bits

      Select the right type of drill bit for the job. Open the drill chuck by twisting the knurled ring and fit the end of the drill bit inside it. Tighten the locking ring until you feel it start to slip. The drill bit is now secure. For chucks that need to be tightened with a chuck key, insert the key in one of the holes in the side of the chuck, and gently rotate the key until the chuck is firmly closed.

      ◘ Straight and steady

      To drill a straighter hole and avoid breaking a bit, hold the drill so that the force you exert helps push the bit straight into the wall. Place the palm of your hand in line with the chuck, extending your index finger along the drill body. Pull the trigger with your second finger.

      ◘ Drill guide

      For a perfectly straight hole every time, make a simple drill guide by joining at right angles two square blocks made from ¾ in. (2 cm) thick wood using a wood cleat 1½ in. (4 cm) long and ¾ in. (2 cm) square, as shown. Apply wood glue and fasten with 1 in. wood screws, into countersunk holes. To use, just run the drill bit down the V groove formed at the corner, as shown. You may need long series drill bits for small-diameter holes—these are a useful addition to the tool kit in any case.

      ◘ Depth gauge

      Wrap a small strip of masking or duct tape around a drill bit so that the exposed part of the bit is equal to the desired depth of the hole. Alternatively, mark the bit with a grease pencil.

      ◘ On the level

      When drilling into a wall, it's not always easy to tell whether you're holding the drill perfectly horizontal. If your drill has a flat top parallel to the drill bit, try taping a mini level or line level to it and then you'll be able to see exactly when you're straight and level.

      ◘ Straight bits

      A bent bit is likely to break and damage your work. Because bits bend easily (especially the thinner ones), test them for straightness before use and discard any bent ones. To test a bit, roll it slowly with your fingertips on a flat surface. If the bit wobbles, it's bent. Alternatively, place the bit against a straightedge and look for gaps between the two surfaces.

      ◘ Pointed bits

      When drilling wood, use a brad-point bit instead of a common twist bit. The little spur on the tip of a brad-point bit cuts cleanly into the wood and keeps the bit from skating around when you start the hole, or from drifting if the bit hits a knot.

      ◘ Splinter-free drilling

      Drilling a hole completely through wood leaves a rough, splintery edge where it exits. To make a clean hole, look (don't feel) for the point of the bit as it just pierces the back of the work. Pull out the bit, and using the little hole as a centering guide, drill from the back. This method works with spade, auger and brad-point bits.

      ◘ The hard stuff

      When you need to drill into tough materials such as concrete and masonry, use a masonry bit with a carbide tip. When drilling into concrete, start off by making a small hole, then enlarge it. If you have to drill many holes in concrete or masonry, rent or buy a hammer drill to use with the carbide-tip bits. By actually banging the spinning bit into the surface, a hammer drill makes your work much easier.

      ◘ On the tiles

      If you have to drill through the face of a tile, use a sharp glass/tile or masonry drill bit so the glaze doesn't chip. Stop the bit from skating on the glaze by sticking masking tape on the tile where you want to drill; this will give the bit an initial bite. Make sure the drill isn't set on hammer action, and if it has variable speed control, start slowly.

      ◘ Oil-drilling rig

      Next time you're drilling holes in steel, try this: find a washer with an inner diameter larger than the diameter of the drill bit, firmly tape it to the workpiece and squirt light machine oil into the eye of the washer. This oil pool keeps the bit cool and lubricated as you drill.

      Sharp point

      Your drill bits will stay sharper longer if you spray them with silicone before use. They're also less likely to break after this treatment.

      ◘ Pilot, clearance and countersunk holes

      A pilot hole reduces the possibility of the wood splitting and makes the screw easier to drive. The hole makes room for the screw shaft, but leaves enough material for the threads to bite into. The drill bit should match the diameter of the screw body (not the threads). Hold the screw up to the light and match a drill bit to the lower shank diameter. A clearance hole allows the whole body of the screw to pass through. When it's important to draw one piece of wood tightly to another, drill a clearance hole through the first or top piece. Countersinking allows the screw head to sit just below the workpiece surface for a better finish.

      To drill an angled hole, first drill through a block of hardwood, then cut the bottom of the block to the desired angle. Hold the guide on the spot with one hand and drill through it with the other.

      ◘ All-in-one bit

      Instead of buying separate bits for drilling the different holes described above, consider buying combination drill bits, available to suit either #6, #8, #10 or #12 gauge depth-adjustable and will drill countersunk, clearance, and pilot holes in one go.

      ◘ Laser-guided drill

      Okay, we exaggerate … but a small flashlight taped to a drill can make it much easier to use in dimly lit places, such as under the sink.

      ◘ Replace the brushes

      Always have the brushes in your power tools replaced before they wear out. Continuing to work your drill or saw with badly worn brushes—indicated by excessive sparking at the armature—will do major (and expensive) damage to your valuable equipment.

      ◘ Quick-draw drill holder

      Here's how to make a neat storage holder for your drill. Cut a 12 in. (30 cm) piece of 4 in. (10 cm) diameter plastic pipe. Cut a notch in the rim about 2 in. (5 cm) wide. Now mount your drill holder vertically or horizontally with wood screws.

      ◘ Make a drill holster for your stepladder

      To keep your drill handy when you're working up high, mount a holster on the side of your stepladder with sheet metal screws or pop rivets. To save the cost of the holster, use a length of 4 in. (10 cm) diameter PVC pipe. The holster will save trips up and down the ladder.

      ◘ In the bag

      Cut down on the mess when drilling through drywall by taping an open garbage bag below the area in which you'll be drilling. As you drill, the debris will fall straight into the bag, not all over the floor.

      ◘ Contact breaker

      When drilling a tough surface that you don't want to damage, such as a car body, simply push a rubber washer onto the drill bit. If you accidentally strike the surface with the drill chuck, the impact will be cushioned by the rubber—better safe than sorry.

      When drilling a thick or tough material, remove the bit from the hole from time to time to clean out any debris.

      ◘ Longer-lasting drill bits

      Overheating will weaken and blunt drill bits, so if the going gets tough, don't try to force it. It's the debris stuck on the bit and in the hole that usually causes the problem, so remove the bit from the hole from time to time to clean it out. Dip masonry bits in water to clean, lubricate and keep cool.

      Another bit

      Broken your last 5/64 in. (2 mm) drill bit and don't have time to get to the hardware store? Snip a nail head off with a wire cutter. The chiseled nail tip drills clean holes fast.

      The right (angled) connections

      Driving screws at an angle (toe-screwing) is a common technique for securing right-angle connections. You'll need a clearance/pilot hole, so first drill a shallow hole to give you a starting point, then drill the angled pilot hole. A combination bit is very handy here.

      1. Drill shallow starter hole

      Estimate the entry point using the screw length as a guide. Drill a shallow hole straight into the wood at this point to start you off.

      2. Finish at an angle

      As soon as the drill bit engages the wood, tilt the drill to the desired angle and drill the pilot hole. Now drive the screw in to complete the job.

      Screwdrivers and screws

      If you're battling to remove an overtightened screw, try dabbing a few drops of vinegar around the screw head. Leave it for a minute or two, and the vinegar will penetrate down the screw threads, making removal much easier.

      The traditional slot-head screw has diversified into many styles. Screw-driving is easier—you just need more screwdrivers! Or do you?

      ◘ Don't use a worn bit

      If you're applying reasonable pressure on the drill but the bit is still skipping in the screw head, it's time to replace the bit. The trick is to have spare bits on hand so you can replace them at the first sign of wear.

      ◘ Magnetic attraction

      Magnetize your screwdriver by stroking a bar magnet along the shaft (in one direction only!) a few times. Now you won't lose those little screws you're trying to get into tricky, hard-to-reach spots. To demagnetize it, just run the magnet along the shaft in both directions.

      ◘ Wax it

      Lubricating a screw with some beeswax will make your job much easier. Don't be tempted to use soap, oil or grease as lubricants—they could stain the wood.

      ◘ Powder power

      Dip the tip of a screwdriver in some scouring powder before attacking a screw. The powder gives the tool increased holding power in a slippery screw slot.

      ◘ Sticky screw gripper

      To get a screw started in a hard-to-reach place, just poke the screw through a piece of masking tape with the sticky side of the tape toward the head. Place the screwdriver in the slot, then fold the tape up onto the screwdriver. When the screw is well started, you can pull the screwdriver loose and remove the tape.

      ◘ Photo opportunity

      Before you disassemble something with more than two or three interconnected parts, take a photo of the assembly with a digital camera. That way you'll have an instant reference when it comes to putting it back together.

      Choosing the best screw

      To use the various screws, you'll need a set of screwdrivers that fit the different head shapes. To save space, buy a set that has one driver handle with a range of different interchangeable heads.

      ◘ Slot head

      Have a limited range and are difficult to use with a power driver.

      ◘ Phillips head

      Have a simple cross and are used widely. The coarse-threaded variety works well with particleboard and other wood joinery.

      ◘ Star

      Torx, Hex, Star and other specialty bits have unique shapes that grip the screwdriver tip more securely than a slot or Phillips head screw. It's usually best to buy them when you need them.

      ◘ Robertson (square head)

      Mostly found in stainless-steel decking screws. Also now in coated screws for treated pine, ideal for outdoor projects. Choose a screw pack that includes a bit.

      Screwing wood to wood

      1. Make the clearance hole

      Mark where you want the screw hole in the piece of wood you are fixing. Fit a twist drill bit slightly larger than the screw shank in your drill, and drill a clearance hole right through the wood. Place scrap wood beneath the workpiece so you do not drill into your workbench.

      2. Countersink and mark

      Exchange the twist drill bit for a countersink bit and drill the countersink for the screwhead. Hold the piece of wood you are fixing in position over the piece you are fixing it to. Push an awl through the clearance hole to mark the screw position on the piece below.

      3. Fasten tight

      Drill a pilot hole the same diameter as the screw shank, to half the depth of the wood. Reposition the two pieces of wood and insert the screw through the clearance hole in the top piece. Tighten it fully until the screw head is fully recessed in the countersunk hole.

      Screwing metal to wood

      1. Mark the position

      Decide where you are going to place the fixture. Hold the fixture in position and mark each screw position on the wood in pencil. Use a level if necessary.

      2. Drill the pilots

      Drill a pilot hole the same diameter as the screw shank at each mark, to half the thickness of the wood. If you find it difficult to gauge the depth, use a guide on the drill bit—a strip of masking tape, for example.

      3. Fix the fixture

      Replace the fixture over the holes and drive in the screws. If there is more than one, tighten them fully only when you are sure the fixture is straight and level.

      Hammers and nails

      A hammer is usually the first tool we learn to use—remember those childhood toys? But did we learn correctly? Read on …

      ◘ Using a claw hammer

      Hold the hammer near the end of the handle and make sure that it strikes the nail head squarely. Hold the upper part of the nail between your thumb and forefinger. Don't hold it at the base. This way, if you miss the nail your fingers will be knocked out of the way rather than crushed. Start it with a few gentle taps, then release the nail and drive it in with harder blows. For large nails, keep your wrist stiff and swing hammer and forearm from the elbow. On rough work, hammer the nail head in flush. When you require a neater finish, leave the nail head proud and drive it below the surface with a nail punch.

      ◘ Angled nailing

      Where possible, drive nails in at a slight angle for a more secure fastening. If you are double nailing, drive each nail in at a different angle.

      When driving large nails, keep your wrist stiff and swing hammer and forearm from the elbow.

      ◘ Removing a bent nail

      If you bend a nail as you drive it in, don't try to straighten it; remove it. Place a piece of card or thin wood on the surface beside the nail to support the hammer and protect the work, fit the claw under the nail head and pull the handle toward you to draw out the nail. Keep the handle close to vertical so you don't widen the nail hole. Need more leverage? Read on!

      ◘ Extracting a long nail

      This is easier if you rest the hammerhead on a block of wood. The wood provides the necessary leverage to withdraw the nail.

      ◘ Single-handed

      Only one hand free? Grasp the hammerhead in your fist as shown, and hold the nail firmly between your fingers and against the side, or cheek, of the hammer. To start the nail, rap the nail point against the work.

      ◘ Instant mallet

      You need a mallet and yours is missing. Try this: slip a rubber doorstop or chair-leg tip over the head of your hammer. It's a good stand-in and is easily removed.

      ◘ Fixing loose heads

      A loose hammer or axe head is easily fixed, especially if its wedge has worked loose. First tape a plastic bag around the handle just below the head. Fill the hole with epoxy resin, replace the wedge and allow the glue to dry. Remove the bag, and you'll find the movement has gone and the handle is firmly attached once again.

      ◘ Drink bottle nail pouch

      Make a nail holder from a plastic drink bottle. Cut the top off an empty bottle, leaving a container 3½ in. (8.5 cm) tall. File off any sharp edges or cover with tape. Cut two 1½ in. (4 cm) vertical slits 1 in. (2.5 cm) apart in the center of one side. Slide the end of your belt through the slots.

      ◘ Light but strong

      Use corrugated metal fasteners to secure butt joints in light wood frameworks. They make a stronger joint than nails, with less risk of splitting the wood.

      ◘ Fingertip saver

      When you're driving small brads or nails into awkward spots, push the nail into a thin strip of cardboard to hold it in position while nailing and to shield the wood from an errant hammer blow.

      ◘ Hand cushions

      A simple bicycling glove is a good defense against blisters and cramps when using a hammer or screwdriver for any length of time. The fingerless style allows complete mobility while the padded palm cushions your hand.

      ◘ Prevent a split

      When nailing near the end-grain, try this to prevent the wood from splitting. Hold the nail upside down on the spot, hammer the pointy end two or three times, and you have a dulled point plus a countersink hole for the nail head. To be extra sure, drill a pilot hole first.

      Choosing the right hammer

      Most types of hammers come in a variety of head weights and handle lengths. Handles made of hardwood, tubular steel (with a rubber grip) or fiberglass absorb shock and are comfortable to hold. The face of a hammer should be smooth and have a slightly beveled edge.

      ◘ Claw hammers

      The basic everyday household hammer is a 16 oz. (450 g) curved-claw hammer. For rough construction work, choose a 22 oz. (680 g) straight-claw hammer, sometimes called a ripping hammer; for finished carpentry, use a light 12 oz. (350 g) hammer.

      ◘ Pein hammers

      Instead of a claw, these hammers have a second striking surface, called a pein. The rounded ball pein is used to shape soft metal. The cabinetmaker's hammer has a long, thin cross pein to start a panel pin, as well as a flat face. A bricklayer's hammer has a flat end as well as a long chisel-like face to score bricks.

      ◘ Mallets and sledgehammers

      To strike woodworking chisels and assemble wooden parts, use a carpenter's mallet. Assemble other projects and pound out dents in metal with a rubber mallet. Long-handled heavy sledgehammers are used for demolition work. The short-handled sledge can be used with stone-cutting chisels and to drive stakes.

      Staplers and staples

      For lighter work, either permanent or temporary, staplers are worth considering as a convenient alternative to hammers and nails.

      ◘ Using a staple gun

      If the staple gun accepts staples of different lengths, select the correct size for the job in hand. Load the magazine and test the gun by firing a staple into some scrap material. Position the material to be fixed. Place the staple gun over the fixing position and squeeze the trigger to fire the staple. Repeat the process to make further fixings, reloading the magazine as it runs out.

      ◘ Temporary stapling

      Some fastening jobs, such as stapling plastic sheets over a window, are meant to be temporary and you will need to remove the staples later. Here's a way to make staple removal hassle-free. Slip a heavy-duty rubber band around the staple gun as shown. The rubber band acts as a spacer, leaving the staples sticking up slightly so that they are easy to remove with a staple remover. This method also keeps the staples from cutting through very thin materials.

      ◘ Hammer tacker

      This handy tool is great for attaching vapor barriers, insulation and building wrap. A hammer tacker is useful for any job that does not require great accuracy of placement. The tacker also makes it easier to work overhead and is kinder to arm muscles and hands than a regular stapler. To set a staple, just strike the tacker against the workpiece. If you do a lot of stapling, a power stapler is a worthwhile investment.

      ◘ Fixing phone wire

      A quick, neat way to run phone and stereo wire is to staple it in place with a special wiring tacker. This tool shoots staples that bridge the wire without damaging it. Wire tackers shoot various-sized staples, so measure the wire you are running to determine which tacker to buy. You can also buy a multi-purpose stapler that will fire curved staples for cabling as well as different straight staples.

      Common staples

      Wrenches and pliers

      Beware of cheap wrenches that are likely to slip or snap in use. Look for the words chrome alloy steel or chrome vanadium stamped on the tool.

      Wrenches are good for working on nuts and bolts and pliers are not—follow that advice and your hardware will last longer.

      ◘ Tips for using an adjustable wrench

      To work on a nut, open the jaws of the wrench and slip it into place. Tighten the moveable jaw so the wrench grips opposite flats on the nut securely. Work out which way to turn the nut. A nut is screwed on in a clockwise direction, so your wrench must move in the same direction to tighten the nut, and counterclockwise to loosen it. Use reasonable force to turn the wrench as required.

      ◘ A third hand

      Locking pliers act as a third hand that can grip small objects while you assemble, solder or clamp them. You can convert a pair of ordinary pliers into a mini-vice by slipping a rubber band over the handles. The rubber band will keep the pliers' jaws closed while you work.

      ◘ Getting leverage

      Place a short length of pipe over the handle of an adjustable wrench to provide more length and leverage on a stubborn job.

      ◘ Bridging the gap

      Say you need to remove a nut with an open-ended wrench that's too large for it. Simply insert an appropriate-sized coin or washer between the wrench and the nut. The coin or washer (you'll have to experiment to determine which best fills the gap) will serve as a wedge, making it possible to turn the nut.

      Place a short length of pipe over the handle of a wrench to provide more leverage on a stubborn job.

      ◘ Saving your skin

      When loosening a very tight nut or bolt, push the wrench with your open palm rather than grasping it with your hand. If the nut suddenly loosens or breaks, or the tool slips off, it means you won't smash or scrape your knuckles.

      ◘ Remote nut starter

      Need to get a nut started in a tight space where your fingers won't fit? Try this: stick a piece of masking tape on the back of a wrench that fits the nut, then place the nut in the tape—it'll hold the nut during that tricky first turn.

      ◘ Put an end to loose nuts

      Dab some clear nail polish to the bolt before tightening the nut and it will hold fast for good.

      Cutting and shaping tools

      A successful DIY project depends on accurate cuts to the building materials. Get off to a good start with sharp tools and a clean workspace.

      ◘ Using a utility knife

      When using a utility knife, place a cutting board or a piece of scrap hardboard beneath whatever you are cutting. Hold the knife securely and draw it along the straightedge in one continuous movement. Make two or three passes rather than trying to cut the material in one go; the harder you have to press, the more risk there is that the blade will slip off the line. Always cut against the side of the straightedge next to the waste side.

      Apply a coat of paste wax to a handsaw blade to protect the metal teeth and ease them through wood.

      ◘ Snap-off blades

      If you do a lot of light-duty cutting, invest in a retractable blade knife with long blades, pre-scored to snap off and give you a new sharp cutting point. Use the snap-off tool attached to the knife and wear protective glasses.

      ◘ Using a handsaw

      Whatever you are cutting must be held securely. To cut a piece of wood to length, hold it securely against a bench block, or clamp onto your workbench.

      Place the thumb of your free hand next to the cutting line to guide the saw blade so it will cut just on the waste side of this line, and draw it toward you at about 45° to start the cut. Once the saw teeth begin to bite, move your free hand away and start to cut

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