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Paper Pieced Modern
Paper Pieced Modern
Paper Pieced Modern
Ebook284 pages1 hour

Paper Pieced Modern

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About this ebook

Learn to quilt with striking precision using the technique of paper piecing in this step-by-step visual guide featuring 13 projects.

Nothing compares to the accuracy you get with paper piecing—and it’s never been easier to learn! Amy Garro’s Paper Pieced Modern opens a world of possibilities for the modern quilter. Choose from 13 quilt patterns designed in Amy’s signature style, featuring clever color placement, unique settings, and a thoughtful use of negative space.

With blocks that range from easy to challenging, there’s something for quilters of every skill level. Discover time-saving tricks that will help you sew extreme angles, sharp points, and unique shapes with perfect results! Her tips for setting up your workspace, choosing the best tools, and transferring patterns will turn you into the expert.
LanguageEnglish
Release dateFeb 1, 2015
ISBN9781607059905
Paper Pieced Modern

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Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
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  • Rating: 5 out of 5 stars
    5/5
    Los diseños son modernos para una técnica tradicional como ésta y las sección de proyectos posee todos los patrones. Las explicaciones son clara. No hay diseños pictoriales salvo estrellas pero es muy buena publicación.

Book preview

Paper Pieced Modern - Amy Garro

INTRODUCTION

Have you been wanting to try paper piecing? As long as you can use a ruler and rotary cutter and sew on a line, you can paper piece. I made my first paper-piecing project when I was in elementary school—and I wasn’t exactly a master piecer then.

All you need to do is to read the paper-piecing method instructions carefully and you’ll be set to make all the projects in this book. My goal in writing this book is to make it feel as though I’m right there helping you. All the fabric is rotary cut to save you the time and hassle of cutting out funky shapes with scissors, and the quilting photographs and discussions will inspire you to stretch your imagination to make these quilts your very own.

I have organized the projects by level of difficulty, beginning with the easier projects and ending the book with more difficult projects. Any project is doable for the confident piecer with time, patience, and careful reading of the pattern, but if simple is your cup of tea, start at the beginning.

A number of different methods can be used for paper piecing, but I present the method that I prefer. It involves cutting the seam allowances before sewing, rather than after. I have found that I make far fewer mistakes with this method and am able to use less fabric while piecing.

The projects in this book are written using my paper-piecing method, but you can use any method of piecing or cutting that you like. While I do include plenty of wiggle room in each fabric piece size, I can’t guarantee that other methods of piecing will work perfectly with my cutting instructions. So if you would like to use another method, I suggest first testing blocks using scraps to see if you will need more fabric. Or, try the method in Paper-Piecing Basics; you might be surprised at how easy this method is.

Happy sewing. I can’t wait to see what you come up with.

     —Amy

Ombré creates movement: In Icy Waters, a strong diagonal feeling pulls the eye down and across the quilt, from the upper left to the lower right.

CHOOSING FABRICS

A Note about Color Schemes

Although I have been formally trained in color theory and could tell you all about different color schemes, I’m not going to. I used to stick much more closely to well-defined color schemes, but eventually I realized that this approach was holding me back. I find that my favorite fabric choices come from simply dumping fabrics onto my sewing room floor and moving them around to create new and fun combinations. I end up putting together colors and fabrics that I had never thought of putting together before. I encourage you to branch out and do the same. If the colors and fabrics look good to you—that’s what matters most. It took me awhile to learn this lesson. Even though knowing color theory helps me understand why a color scheme might look good after I’ve created it, I don’t need this knowledge to decide. Yes, I like how that looks, or, Oh, that’s horrendous. Go with your gut instinct and have plenty of fun playing around with your fabric.

Creating Ombré

The term ombré refers to the gradation from one hue (color) to another (such as from blue to red) or from one value to another (such as from light to dark). I really like to use ombré in my quilts and used this effect in several projects in this book. It creates movement and interest—using it with purpose can help lead the eye in a specific direction.

For all the patterns using ombré, I have helped you by indicating the number of fabrics you need to create this effect. Where possible, I have even listed the exact fabrics I used. When creating ombré with fabric, you won’t be gradating seamlessly—fabric isn’t paint. There will be jumps as you move from one fabric to another. The key is to try to make each jump similar so that none of the changes look abrupt or stand out in a negative way.

When working with fabric to create ombré, you can use solids, prints, or a combination of the two. When using prints, the best fabrics will be ones that read as a single color overall. They could even have small amounts of colors from the neighboring fabrics. Whether or not you choose to allow small amounts of other colors into your fabrics depends on your personal preference.

In Diamonds and Emeralds I: Madrona Road, the eye is pulled from the upper left to the lower right.

These are the fabrics I used for The Bachelor. I used color cards from two fabric manufacturers to select a variety of solid reds that blended well from one to another. I highly suggest using color cards or purchasing fabric in person to create a precise ombré effect like this.

Purchasing Fabric

Shopping online for fabric is very common now. The benefit of this is that a huge selection of fabric is readily available. This is especially helpful if you don’t have any quilt shops nearby. The downside of shopping online is that you cannot physically see the fabric for color accuracy before buying it. You also can’t bring in fabrics or make stacks of fabric bolts in the store to see how they interact with each other.

I do both kinds of shopping—at my local quilt store and online—as needed. I value the help that a good salesperson can offer when looking for different fabric combinations. I look online only if my local quilt shop doesn’t have what I’m looking for. Online shopping is best when I attempt to make my online shopping experience more like that of walking into a quilt store—I use color cards to make accurate color selection easier, and I only shop at e-stores that have well-lit photographs of their merchandise. I add extra fabrics to my shopping cart so that I can look at them all on the same web page—like auditioning them next to each other in a physical store—and whittle down my selection from there.

Shopping

If you’re in the Midwest, consider stopping by my favorite local quilt store, Crimson Tate. They are located in downtown Indianapolis and carry only modern fabrics.

Looking to shop online? Here are a few of my favorite online shops:

crimsontate.com

westwoodacresfabric.com

hawthornethreads.com

pinkcastlefabrics.com

fatquartershop.com

marmaladefabrics.com

The Internet is an excellent

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