Vy Cutting

Maybe it’s marking the 17th anniversary of The Directive Collective in May. Maybe it’s realizing that I’ve now been in footwear design for 23 years, exactly half my lifetime. But be it part nostalgia or part maturity, I think I’ve finally found the answer to the question “Is this it?” Read all about it. https://lnkd.in/gCsReBVb --- I’m the owner of The Directive Collective footwear design consultancy. We make great footwear, not just great sketches. #design #footwear #footweardesign

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TEMPLA LAUNCHES UNWORLD WINTER BOOTS WITH ANOTHER-1 SOLUTIONS METAVERSE FASHION MAGAZINE For the release of their first footwear project, TEMPLA has teamed up with web3 phygital expert Another-1 to create a winter boot designed for both the real and digital worlds. Developed with deep winter and mixed terrain in mind, the Unworld Winter Boots is a combination of components designed for inclement conditions. From the ground up, the deep lugged Vibram® sole maximises grip for extreme applications, while the high rubber midsole extends the waterproofing up the side walls to keep you warm and dry through slush, sleet and snow. The thermally insulated upper is wrapped in a hard-wearing ripstop shell and is complimented by a ribbed cuff to trap heat and a luxurious high-pile fleece lining to create a cosy interior. The Unworld Winter Boots is created with Templa’s signature handwriting, merging the swagger of streetwear codes through exaggerated proportions with refined details and a boosted silhouette to create a commanding presence. In partnership with Another-1, the physical boot will serve as a gateway to a unique digital experience that extends beyond the tangible world. By simply tapping your smartphone against the AN1 tag (Near Field Communication Chip) embedded into the boot, you will be guided on the Another-1 platform to enter a unique 6-digit code to pair it with an NFT, guaranteeing authenticity and access to exclusive digital content. The acquisition of the physical Boots also grants the owner access to a digital wearable compatible with Union Avatars and a limited edition Unworld NFT artwork series created in collaboration with visual artist Jordan Donaldson. The artwork series consists of eight unique atmospheric landscapes defined by a rarity level. Adopting a gamification process, an algorithm will randomly assign one of the artwork series to its owner during the redemption process. Given TEMPLA was founded in the mountains, the Snow World –Tier No.1 Common series represents our connection with the real-world. From here, the environments progressively gravitate away from the tangible towards the pure imagination; culminating in the Glitter World – Tier No.8 Mythic. https://lnkd.in/gESw6pdb #web3 #metaverse #fashion #investment

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I'm hosting the third in my series of panel discussions asking "Is Fashion's Future Secondhand?" at The Lab E20 on the 19th or September. It is a deliberately provocative title and perhaps a more appropriate question would be - how can a quarter of all our wardrobes become secondhand by 2030 as part of plans designed by ReLondon and The British Fashion Council's Institute of Positive Fashion to reduce the Fashion Industry's environmental impact. My MA Fashion Futures research London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London and four years of my The Elephant in my Wardrobe project, consciously trying to always choose secondhand first has revealed a series of issues that I think the growing secondhand market needs to address if we're all going to be able to displace 25% of our new fashion purchases with preloved apparel. These include a lack of trust around the authenticity and condition of preloved clothes, particularly online, lack of availability of some sizes, concerns around fit and cleanliness, difficulty finding 'exactly' what you're looking for when you need it, and conversely difficulty finding buyers for our old stuff when we want to resell it in a very oversaturated market. Happily, my research also highlighted opportunities for systems, tech and craft based solutions to make it easier for more of us to shop secondhand apparel in the future and I'm very lucky that Elizabeth A. founder of galore., Matt Hanrahan Co-Founder of Reskinned, Yasmin Jones-Henry Senior Strategist RAEBURN, Rónán Ó Dálaigh founder of Thriftify , and Hannah Standen Co-Founder Alterist have agreed to be on the panel and talk about the innovative projects they're working on. If you'd like to join in the conversation tickets are free from Eventbrite and the link is below https://lnkd.in/exxrJD7A? #secondhandfashion #fashionfutures #sustainablefashion #paneldiscussion

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Happy Friday! I'd like to share an interesting wavy-stripe patterned look from Bianca Saunders, a UK-based menswear label founded in 2017. The brand has established a strong print signature, focusing on 'body mapping around the male form through bespoke prints,' according to the brand. What does this mean in practice? Let's use this #SS25 look 8 as an example. At first glance, the allover print on the outfit might seem like just a cool stripe pattern. However, creating this symmetrical and mirrored look requires precise positioning of the print on each garment piece - a process that often requires close collaboration amongst #printdesigner, #appareldesigner, and #technicdesigner. It's worthy to consider that while matching or/and mirroring an object (in this case, a #printpattern) is just a click away using digital design tool, achieving this effect in real-life garment production is a complex and labor-intensive process. This is known as pattern matching, where a particular print is aligned across seams to create a continuous or symmetrical/mirrored effect. Next time you see a garment where stripes seem to flow seamlessly across different panels, or meet perfectly at seams to create a grid or mirrored effect, take a moment to appreciate it. This level of precision requires cross-team advance planning, expert cutting, and skilled sewing. It's a challenging and often costly technique that, when done right, elevates the garment's overall design and quality. It is important to keep in mind that this is never done unintentionally. Rather, it is a design decision explicitly made for both aesthetic reason and quality elevation. ** Public Announcement ** I'm excited to share that I'm working on a Linkedin Bewsletter called "Beyond the Surface." Through this newsletter, I hope to bring much-needed appreciation for surface design by uncovering the magic behind this creative field and its wonderful creations. I'd love for you to sign up here https://lnkd.in/em2SsZya I am working on publishing my first newsletter super soon. See you there 🫶 #beyondthesurface #surfacedesign #visualanalysis #menswear #patterndesign #explained #fashion #detailsmatter

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와!! (wow!!) matches fashion ends with crossboarder ecommerce 🪦 They used to be one of the most important player when it comes to establish fashion brands outside UK, specially in Korea, one of the largest online fashion markets in the world. Panagora marketing team in Korea usually had to show other brands what they did or keep an eye on them regarding total landed cost in Korea. Now brands after Farfetch and Matches Fashion has few players left to reach some of the largest crossboarder ecommerce markets (read: new opportunity) It all started to happened when investors 💰 came into the picture, can it be one of the reasons ? matches fashion founded 1987 and launched ecommerce 2007. Got investors 2012 and 2017 (founders exit for 400 M GBP 💸) and 2022 and 2023 2024 matches enters administration and sold to Frasers Group for 52 M GBP 💵 https://lnkd.in/gG_Mx8ed

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Reality takes it toll on London's fantasy. As an adopted Londoner I may be biased but... for me, LFW's creativity, energy, ingenuity, and sense of community is unparalleled. It's the reason I was pulled into this industry in the first place. However, in recent seasons against a difficult socio-economic climate, the light has dimmed. Aside from a few bright sparks, SS25 has unfortunately felt flatter than ever as many brands play it far too safe. With every collection for every brand, there has to be a balance between the familiar and the new, the fantastical and the functional but most have neglected the former elements. "London’s distinctiveness as a spot for unapologetic, disruptive ideas is what has cemented it as a fashion capital over the past 40 years. But true originality is at risk of waning, as designers prioritise building more commercial businesses," writes Kati Chitrakorn. "While some struggle to present original ideas, the strongest continued to hone their identities, offering something unique that gives customers a reason to buy." 🎯 To avoid themselves being forgettable, brands have to be braver, they have to build rather than consolidate, and they have to give their customers a reason to shop. There are others to highlight as Kati does in her piece, but I want to single out Chopova Lowena, who I think represent the best of London fashion's recent success stories. Yes, it's a brand all about collaboration, energy, and fun BUT it's also great at product and adept at knowing how and when to expand. For me, they provide a modern case study of turning a distinct identity into a compelling brand universe filled with covetable product.

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📣 Supporting UK Fashion Designers: Why We Need More Than Just Innovation Grants 📣 This is an odd statement from an innovator, but I believe more non-innovation grants = more organic innovation demand in the industry. It's not just the Matches stock issue causing turbulence. The wholesale market is down by at least 30%, driven by instability among key players and global demand concerns. This decline in wholesale has a compounding impact on brands, especially small standalone companies. There is less revenue and a loss of previously stable income that many used to unlock credit for product creation. So, a 30% reduction in wholesale can actually mean a 100% reduction in credit needed to fund their collections. Credit lines are essential in the fashion industry, where you must pay to create a collection long before you receive payment. With many now looking for other types of funding, the large disparity in grant funding for fashion brands versus their innovation-focused counterparts is increasingly concerning. In the UK, while Innovate UK has provided nearly 500 grants to fashion tech and material start-ups (which is fantastic), this focus on innovation overlooks a critical issue: who will use these technologies if designers are struggling to stay afloat? The British Fashion Council supports the entire industry through education and London Fashion Week, but direct grants only impact 36 designers. This is insufficient given the scale of the problem. We need more grants or low-cost credit from more organisations. As the industry pushes towards sustainability and tech innovation, it's crucial to remember the creators at the core. A more balanced approach to subsidised funding is needed to support both innovation and creative talent as the industry's core. What other options are you offering or have found to help the fashion industry keep thriving through direct monetary support? Do you agree there is a gap, or are there other tools fashion brands can use during this challenging time - share away!! At StudioThree, we help by: 📣 Connecting with brand-focused investors: We match brands with investors who understand the unique challenges and opportunities in the brand space. 📖 Analysing and forecasting product plans: We work to limit cash flow burn and optimise your product strategies for sustained growth. 🖥 Reviewing DTC plans: We help create cost-efficient growth plans tailored to your brand's specific needs. 💰 Preparing you for investors: We ensure that your brand is investor-ready with solid business plans and financials.

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Born Tomoaki Nagao, NIGO is a streetwear and pop culture icon. He has pioneered a revolution in the fashion, music, and popular culture spaces. His journey began in Ura-Harajuku, Japan where he founded the iconic streetwear brand A Bathing Ape (BAPE) in 1993. Join us as we dive into the interesting journey of this cultural icon, taking a look at his early influences, career milestones, and his far extending influence on the world. Read full journal post on kushstain.com 

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Is the Double 11 shopping gala era over in China? Following the announcement that this year’s Double 11 gala has been cancelled, many are speculating if the era of large-scale shopping festivals is coming to an end. Yet, it appears that for many platforms and brands, the Double 11 season remains a prime sales period. The Double 11 gala began in 2016 with Alibaba and quickly became one of China’s most anticipated annual events, even surpassing the excitement of Chinese New Year galas. In 2020, there were four separate galas hosted by different platforms. While Tmall held a lower-profile gala in 2023 following the pandemic, this year Alibaba has opted out entirely as platforms like PDD and Douyin (the sister app of TikTok in China) contend for market dominance. Despite the lack of a gala, sales have remained strong. By October 30, gross merchandise value (GMV) across platforms had already reached 845 billion RMB (91.48 billion USD), with 80.3% of these sales on traditional e-commerce platforms and 19.7% via livestreaming. The top-selling category was home appliances, with GMV reaching 132.4 billion RMB (14.33 billion USD) and a 15.7% market share, followed by mobile phones, electronics, and fashion. The growth in appliance and electronics sales was driven in part by state and provincial subsidies this year. Alibaba’s Taobao and Tmall platforms reported impressive growth, with 373 brands each reaching over 100 million RMB (13.93 million USD) in sales by October 31. Purchases through Alibaba’s 88VIP membership surged, showing a 60% increase in member purchases, a 30% rise in average purchase value, and a 50% boost in membership views year-over-year. JD.com also reported double-digit growth in transaction value, order volume, and user numbers, with over 16,000 brands tripling their sales. Please check the original article via Dao insights to know more. https://lnkd.in/emdC75Xi Daoinit Alibaba Group Tmall #festival #china #experience #lifestyle #style #living #culture #double11

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Striding back to the office Great example of how clients can often provide valuable data led insights into wider social trends. SPOKE is seeing increasing demand, which in part is attributed to the wider return to the office trend, with sales of their more formal trouser cuts increasing relative to their most informal styles. This is also great example of PR collaboration, with M7 Communications LTD working with James Staunton on this story. #work #trends #retail

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Back with more exciting next-gen materials news this week! 💚🌱 1. Stella McCartney is known for using animal-free and environmentally preferred alternative materials in many of their products. This gorgeous suit from Stella McCartney was worn twice (so far) by Claudia Jessie, who played Eloise in the popular Netflix show Bridgerton, once at the Bridgerton World Premiere in New York, and again on the The Late Show with Stephen Colbert. “I care a lot about being as sustainable as you can, so you will see me in this suit a fair amount. So I hope you like it because you’re going to see it again,” Claudia Jessie told InStyle. 2. OtterBox launched a new and luxurious mobile phone case made from DESSERTO, a plant-based material derived from the Nopal cactus, for the iPhone 15 series and Apple Watches. The Symmetry Series cactus leather cases can withstand everyday drops and bumps and are even MagSafe compatible. “The launch of the Symmetry series of cactus leather cases is a testament to our shared commitment to sustainable innovation. It marks a significant step in redefining luxury design for mobile accessories through the use of Desserto,” said Adrian L., co-founder of Desserto. 3. At the Global Fashion Summit in Copenhagen, Bloom Labs was announced the winner of the Trailblazer Award, presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) and PDS Ventures. Bloom Labs converts protein-rich, globally abundant raw materials into versatile pellets, spun into fibers that rival the qualities of leading market materials like cotton, silk, and polyester without environmental drawbacks. Federica Marchionni, CEO of Global Fashion Agenda, emphasized the need for fashion leaders to adopt a values-based approach, prioritizing both environmental stewardship and the well-being of people. 4. Freja bags have been everywhere on Instagram recently. They hit all the current trends, and their work totes are described everywhere as the epitome of the “quiet luxury” aesthetic. Freja bags are handmade in custom-developed pebbled ultrafiber leather and lined in microsuede. These animal-free, recycled material alternatives resemble leather in everything from feel to durability. The ultrafiber feels luxurious, is thick and substantial, and is lightweight, water-resistant, and scratch-proof. Join us to not miss out on new releases and receive industry news directly to your inbox 👉 https://lnkd.in/gwSRxMgU #Materialinnovation #Nextgenmaterials #Sustainability #Innovation #Textiles #Fashion

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We had the honour to be invited the MA Fashion Entrepreneurship and Innovation Postgraduate showcase at Fashion Business School, London College of Fashion on Tuesday. There was so much creative talent on show, we were honestly blown away, but we was drawn to this piece of work by Elliot Rickerby an MSc Applied Psychology in Fashion Graduate. The title jumped out "We're all suicidal, what's the issue?" Please note, we're extremely passionate and fully behind the exciting business of fashion, however, we can't hide the pressure's that exist, we need to listen to our next generation of fashion creatives for change to happen. We spoke to Elliot about his research as some of the points raised we're in line with the research we launched on imposter syndrome in July this year. He sent us his key findings, these are his words :- 👉 Participants detailed a continuous narrative of toxicity and pressure, which is taught and normalised in educational institutes, and often accentuated and furthered in their professional careers. 👉 The capitalist nature of modern fashion suppresses creativity, lowers productivity and damages designers mental health - all in the name of profit. This is a consequence of the fast fashion cycle which has now become the status quo. 👉 Fashion environments are extremely complex places where the lines between comradery and competition are blurred and where those in power leverage their status to project insecurity onto those they manage - perhaps caused by imposter syndrome? 👉 Gen Z hold the future to a more sustainable, human centric industry as they are less tolerable to overworking and value a work-life balance. 👉 The findings from this study align with existing psychological research in other fields, suggesting that fashion is just like any other financially driven industry and is not special. However, before progress can be made, fashion exceptionalism (and the ego that comes with it) needs to die as it prevents the industry from being open to change. There is so much work to be done to drive change into this industry so that the next generation of creatives can survive it.

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“Final_FINAL_v2_(Actually_Final).jpg” If this file name haunts you, you need to see this. 😅 Creative chaos happens to the best of teams, but it doesn't have to. There's a better way to manage your digital assets, speed up approvals, and keep things running smoothly. We've unpacked it all in a blog for brands that are ready to swap stress for efficiency. Because final should mean final, right? Check it out here: https://lnkd.in/dmN-3_rR #DigitalAssetManagement #FashionBrands #AssetManagement #TechForFashion

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Behind the collaboration: Gioia Pan and Clarks link up for Taipei Fashion Week A designer collaborating with a footwear brand is not an unlikely scenario at fashion week. This was also the case for established designer Li-Yang Pan, who for the presentation of her brand Gioia Pan’s AW24 collection at Taipei Fashion Week onboarded British shoe brand Clarks as a primary collaborator. As such, Pan’s show was rife in the iconography of Clarks; the brand’s ads were displayed on the screen at the end of the runway up until the show started, front row guests were gifted bags filled with shoe-related goods and attending celebrities and influencers also appeared to be wearing pairs of Clarks to show support. On the runway, meanwhile, Clarks shoes were paired with Gioia Pan’s functional sports collection, notably the first time Pan has ventured into the sports fashion category and a choice made due to Clarks’ “pursuit of the best wearing experience deeply rooted in its DNA” and the brand’s “centuries-old craftsmanship” that resonated with Pan’s own design values. The Gioia Pan brand is also known for such practices, having established itself as a leader in innovative knitwear since Pan founded the brand in 2001. Partnership comes as Pan ventures into sports fashion The collaborative process was a one that saw both Pan’s and Clarks’ teams work closely together on outlining brand positioning and design concepts, before the two looked at integrating the footwear with the sportswear line, ensuring what Pan said was “a perfect blend of style and functionality for both brands”. This then extended into a series of marketing plans alongside the fashion show, including social media activations to help maximise market impact. When asked what the appeal was in working with Clarks, Pan told FashionUnited: “This collaboration was a strategic decision from a business perspective. It aligns with our brand values and image. Clarks, as a heritage British brand with almost 200 years history, shares the same value with us – pursuing high quality and comfort, which resonates well with our brand’s focus – high-end functionality product and style. This resonance will enhance the market appeal of our products.” For Pan, the partnership goes hand-in-hand with Gioia Pan’s goal of internationalisation, with the perspective of reaching a wider consumer base particularly in the UK and European markets. With this in mind, she hopes the collaboration with Clarks is not just a one-time event, and will instead develop into a long-term partnership that could potentially see the development of new product lines and technologies. learn more: https://lnkd.in/gZZcKBcX #ai #metaverse #fashion #investment #tech #innovation

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The biggest mistake 80% of footwear brands make: (And it’s costing millions in sales…) Listen, I’ve worked with brands globally. But the brands that thrive understand this one thing: Comfort and fit should never take a back seat to style. Here’s my 7-step framework to get it right: - Research your target customer’s lifestyle needs. - Prioritize comfort technology (it can be your USP). - Test prototypes with real users (not just your team). - Focus on sizing consistency (shoppers notice). - Use quality materials that support long wear. - Market comfort benefits as much as style. - Get feedback post-launch to improve future collections. This approach can separate you from competitors focused solely on trends. The best part? Your brand builds trust and loyalty, so you’re not just chasing seasonal hype. Footwear is personal— get the basics right, and customers will keep coming back. ♻️ Repost if you agree! —————————— Want to learn more about building a successful footwear line? Www.reborndesignsct.com

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Selfridges was the first retailer in the WORLD to remove plastic from their fridges! 🌍 In this raw conversation with Olly Fawcett, Josh White, Co-Founder of Cano Water® shares: • Battling addiction at just 12 years old • Finding sobriety for three years • Facing a relapse at 19 • Launching a global brand at 22 with his best friends • Attracting investment from The Sidemen, Dave, and Ricky Gervais And so much more! Every business journey has its struggles, but what does it take to overcome it? Full episode available in comments below!👇 #plasticpollution #selfridges #plasticfree #dontbottleit

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The womenswear market is predicted to grow 14% to £38.4bn in 2028, up from £32.2bn in 2023. The fact is, that the female demographic has continued to mystify marketers and there’s really no reason for it. That's where we come in! Our latest New Future Value Report dives into: ➙ Valuable research from our partners at Mintel about the needs, concerns and interests of the female demographic ➙ Case studies on those in the women's athleisure wear market getting it right ➙ How you can optimise, accelerate and innovate your next womenswear campaign Download the full 'What Women Want' report here: https://lnkd.in/eAetN_wX #NewFutureValue #WhatWomenWant #MarketingAgency #DigitalMarketing

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