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“What star sign are you?” has long been common parlance, but a rise in zodiac necklaces means there’s no need to ask whether the wearer is into astrology or not. Rihanna is rarely seen without her Briony Raymond Jumbo Pisces medallion, a blingtastic emblem dotted with diamonds, while Meghan Markle recently wore Logan Hollowell Taurus and Gemini Constellation neck charms, in honor of Archie and Lilibet, during her 40th birthday broadcast. Hailey Bieber’s Sagittarius insignia comes in the form of Anita Ko’s diamond framed coin pendant, while proud Libra Bella Hadid looks to affordable brand Mazza Boutique for sweet zodiac and birth year necklaces.
Celebrities aren’t the only ones buying celestial keepsakes. “The increased popularity of zodiac jewelry goes hand-in-hand with the renaissance of personalized pieces as people seek out pieces with which they connect on a deeper level, rather than a singular focus on aesthetic appeal,” says Raymond, an art historian and fine jewelry expert, whose New York atelier specializes in bespoke pieces. “Simultaneously, I feel there has been a movement towards identifying with one’s astrological sign as a source of divine comfort. Wearing one’s sign in the form of jewelry is a way to keep this feeling close, which is what ultimately inspired me to create our zodiac collection.”
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Rosh Mahtani of fashion favorite Alighieri, whose work is inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy, agrees that the rise in cosmological tokens is directly linked to the state of the world – and our wellbeing—during a period that has been defined by tumult. “I think that in difficult times, people look for meaning more than ever,” says Mahtani, whose beautifully worn pieces each pay homage to Dante’s imperfect subjects. “These past 18 months have been so turbulent, it doesn’t surprise me that people who weren’t previously into astrology have been looking to the stars, and wanting to carry a wider sense of purpose in the universe on their bodies.”
For Raymond, zodiac emblems have always been one of the most personal forms of jewelry because, “there are few forms of ancient spirituality that have endured the passage of time as astrology has. Thousands of years since its inception, we continue to be captured by our zodiac signs, even going so far as to map out our birth charts for a deeper insight into who we are as individuals.” Her clients often combine multiple zodiacs on one piece to nod to those whom the wearer holds near and dear, and incorporate elements of flora and fauna to “represent the delicate balance between the grounding presence of our planet and the otherworldliness of astrology”.
If you haven’t yet figured out your relationship to the cosmos, fret not. Mahtani’s subtle and abstract takes on the classic astrological symbols are designed to be interpreted in their own way. “I didn’t want the symbols to be too reductive or obvious,” she says of her dug-up-from-the-ground aesthetic that makes each piece seem like a truly unique treasure. “The notion of fragmented talismans that invite you to unlock your own story has always been at the heart of Alighieri. I suppose that the zodiac pieces are rooted in meanings that are perhaps more explicit.”
Zodiac pieces are a way into Alighieri’s unique world of self-expression, with customers going on to layer a second, more abstract talisman – “perhaps the Leone medallion for strength and courage, the Trailblazer necklace to symbolize the future, or the Torch of the Night for illumination.” Mahtani herself mixes and matches a tangle of wonderful trinkets rooted in literature, adventure, and sentiment around her neck daily.
Where to start to look original, rather than jumping on a starry trend bandwagon? Alighieri’s is a delightful world to get lost in and land upon something that’s personal and affordable. Consider it the e-tail equivalent of stargazing—just an eye for an emblem that speaks to you is required. For special pieces—and great gifts—the fine jewelry world is awash with exquisite forever treasures, from Briony Raymond and Logan Hollowell to Anita Ko, Jade Trau, and Matteo. Mid-range astro gems can also be found at Jennifer Behr, Mejuri, and Stephen Webster. Whether these spirited charms are more powerful than a great diamond necklace or a simple nameplate, you’ll just have to find out.
