The Best Serum for Hyperpigmentation Is Worth the Investment

Dark spots, brown patches, redness. Skin discoloration can appear in myriad ways, and often sticks around. But the best serum for hyperpigmentation can encourage it to fade more quickly, restoring a radiant look and more even skin tone in a matter of weeks. Left to its own devices, this discoloration could last for months, if not years.

Vogue’s Top Picks

• Best Overall: Isdin Melaclear, $88
• Best for Melasma: SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense, $110
• Best for Age Spots: SkinMedica Even and Correct Advanced Brightening Treatment, $178
• Best for Acne Scars: Topicals Faded Brightening and Clearing Serum, $18
• Best for Uneven Tone: Omorovicza Even Tone Serum, $165
• Best for Sensitive Skin: SkinBetter Science Even Tone Correcting Serum, $160
• Best for Mature Skin: 111Skin Repair Serum NAC Y², $180

There’s quite a bit of strategy involved: Many of the active ingredients used for brightening target the pigment production process, which is responsible for churning out excessive amounts of melanin, or pigment in the skin. Some, like vitamin C and niacinamide, even mobilize at separate points in this system, amplifying their effects.

While you’ll often find these brightening ingredients in combination for that very reason, the formulations can vary in the type of hyperpigmentation they treat. The best serum for hyperpigmentation, then, might ultimately depend on what type of discoloration you’re experiencing. With that, consider these ideal for the most common culprits.

In This Article

• What causes hyperpigmentation?
• What are the different types of hyperpigmentation?
• What skin types are most prone to hyperpigmentation?
• Can pigmentation actually be removed with a serum?
• What ingredients can improve the look of pigmentation?
• Meet the Experts

Best Overall: Isdin Melaclear

• Why We Love It: “This serum contains vitamin C and phytic acid, which work together to brighten the skin and reduce dark spots,” says Danilo Del Campo, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Chicago. He notes that it works well for both post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation—which can arise after acne and sun exposure, which both stoke inflammation—as well as melasma. “I’ve seen consistent results with it,” he says.
• Key Ingredients: Vitamin C, phytic acid, green tea extract
• Size: 0.5 fl. oz.

Best for Melasma: SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense

• Why We Love It: For her patients with melasma—a chronic condition fueled by hormones and sun exposure—New York City board-certified dermatologist Michelle Park, MD, recommends this formula in combination with a separate vitamin C serum. “It is a unique combination of niacinamide, kojic acid, and tranexamic acid that is gentle, but incorporates many different pigmentation-fighting ingredients together,” she says.
• Key Ingredients: Niacinamide, kojic acid, tranexamic acid
• Size: 1 fl. oz.

Best for Age Spots: SkinMedica Even and Correct Advanced Brightening Treatment

• Why We Love It: While SkinMedica is known for its growth factors, this serum is proof of its expertise in brightening agents, too. Nine percent of the formula comprises a blend of niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and lotus sprout extract, which work in tandem to fade a variety of hyperpigmentation—melasma among them, according to the brand. Grape extract, meanwhile, supplies moisture and softens the look of fine lines and wrinkles, making this a worthwhile option for those experiencing discoloration as a result of aging.
• Key Ingredients: Lotus sprout extract, niacinamide, tranexamic acid
• Size: 2 fl. oz.

Best Drugstore: La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Dark Spot Serum With Melasyl + Niacinamide

• Why We Love It: Good things take time, including the active ingredient Melasyl, the end result of nearly two decades of research. The compound bonds to a precursor of excess melanin, effectively taking this hypothetical pigment out of commission—and therefore fading existing and preventing new discoloration. It works alongside 5% niacinamide for a comprehensive approach, giving it quite a lot bang for your proverbial buck.
• Key Ingredients: Melasyl, niacinamide
• Size: 1 fl. oz.

Best for Acne Scars: Topicals Faded Brightening and Clearing Serum

• Why We Love It: Although you can use this all over, this thin, gel-like serum—which went viral for its sheer efficacy—is designed to offer a targeted treatment, making it ideal for acne scarring and errant dark spots alike. Also worth noting: The formula, which is powered by a blend of azelaic acid, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid, is technically fragrance-free, but it does have a strong scent.
• Key Ingredients: Azelaic acid, niacinamide, tranexamic acid
• Size: 1.7 fl. oz.

Best Preventative: Clinique Even Better Clinical Radical Dark Spot Corrector + Interrupter Serum

• Why We Love It: The best way to manage hyperpigmentation is to prevent it from forming in the first place. That’s the gambit behind this serum, which contains both vitamin C and the brand's patented CL302 Brightening Complex; it includes antioxidants, salicylic acid, and a yeast extract that busts up large clumps of pigment, among other ingredients. To stymie future spots, a blend of green tea and rice bran extracts quell the inflammation that so often leads to hyperpigmentation.
• Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, vitamin C, yeast extract
• Size: 1 fl. oz.

Best K-Beauty: Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum

• Why We Love It: Serums intended to treat hyperpigmentation aren’t typically known for their hydrating properties, which is where this particular formula departs. Rather than your standard water base, nearly two-thirds of the serum consists of rice bran water, an amino acid-rich fluid that has inherent moisturizing properties. Alongside this is 2% alpha-arbutin, which dials down enzyme activity critical for melanin production. Better yet, the lightweight texture sinks quickly into skin and without a tacky feel.
• Key Ingredients: Rice bran water, alpha-arbutin, niacinamide
• Size: 1 fl. oz.

Best for Uneven Tone: Omorovicza Even Tone Serum

• Why We Love It: Intended to deliver brightening where it’s most needed, this thoughtful serum pairs niacinamide and a few ultra-gentle exfoliating acids—mandelic and gluconic acids, both mild enough for daytime use—with amber microalgae. This modulates melanin formation, intuitively targeting areas with an overproduction in order to maintain an all-around even tone.
• Key Ingredients: Niacinamide, mandelic acid, amber microalgae
• Size: 0.17 fl. oz., 1 fl. oz.

Best for Mature Skin: 111Skin Repair Serum NAC Y²

• Why We Love It: This clever formula sets out to enhance your skin’s own production of glutathione, a do-it-all antioxidant that can boost skin elasticity, repair skin cells, and interfere with pigment production, thereby brightening skin. Rather than simply supplying the active, though, it deploys the proprietary NAC Y2 complex. This pairs vitamin C, escin, and N-acetylcysteine (the titular NAC) designed to encourage its synthesis, offering lasting results over time.
• Key Ingredients: Vitamin C, escin, N-acetylcysteine
• Size: 1 fl. oz.

Best Post-Procedure: Allies of Skin Tranexamic and Arbutin Advanced Brightening Serum

• Why We Love It: If you’re doing a series of chemical peels or laser resurfacing to lighten pigmentation—thus compromising skin—a retinoid or vitamin C may be too irritating. That’s the beauty of this gentle but no less potent serum, which pairs kojic acid-rich mushrooms with 5% niacinamide, 3% tranexamic acid, and 2% alpha arbutin. It’s free of potentially harsh exfoliants, instead offering peptides to actively nourish and strengthen vulnerable skin.
• Key Ingredients: Niacinamide, reishi mushroom, tranexamic acid
• Size: 1 fl. oz.

Best Overnight: Epilogic Double Feature AHA Overnight Facial

• Why We Love It: The brainchild of board-certified oculofacial plastic surgeon Dr. Chaneve Jeanniton, this potent formula is among the best retinol serums, full stop. It pairs a time-released blend of retinol and retinoid with lactic and mandelic acids to make quick work of dead skin cells—revealing the fresh skin (ostensibly with less excess melanin) beneath. Lest that sound harsh, the actives are housed in a base of squalane, which helps skin maintain moisture.
• Key Ingredients: Retinol, lactic acid, mandelic acid
• Size: 1 fl. oz.

Best for Sensitive Skin: SkinBetter Science Even Tone Correcting Serum

• Why We Love It: Instead of the usual suspects, this serum is packed with licorice extract and alpha arbutin, which are two plant-derived antioxidants. As a result, it can “target hyperpigmentation without causing irritation,” Dr. Del Campo says. “I love it because it’s gentle enough for daily use, even on sensitive skin.” What levels up its efficacy, too, is diglucosyl gallic acid, an antioxidant that works in multiple ways to prevent excess melanin production.
• Key Ingredients: Licorice extract, diglucosyl gallic acid, alpha arbutin
• Size: 1.7 fl. oz.

First, a brief primer: “Hyperpigmentation occurs when excess melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color, is produced in certain areas of the skin,” says Dr. Del Campo. Depending on your skin tone, this melanin can appear as spots, patches, or just generally uneven skin tone.

As for the causes, these can vary—but inflammation plays a big role in sending production into overdrive, which is why the aptly named post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is the most common form, according to Dr. Park. “Any type of traumatic or inflammatory event to the skin, including acne, has the potential to increase activity of the melanocytes, which are pigment producing cells,” she says. That can cause pigment to “spill” out into the upper layers of skin.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation often contributes to the dark spots that arise after a breakout, or acne scarring when you’re dealing with a stain on skin versus a textural concern (like an indentation in skin). They can fade on their own over time, but the process may take weeks to months, says Dr. Park. Meanwhile, “lentigos, or sunspots, are seen in photodamaged skin and due to increase in melanocyte activity caused by UV exposure,” she says.

Yet another form of hyperpigmentation is melasma, which is frequently seen among pregnant people (although anyone can develop it). “It is a benign condition that causes hyperpigmentation most commonly presenting above the lip in the mustache area, cheeks, and forehead,” says Dr. Park. Hormones and UV exposure can both play a role, contributing to an uptick in melanin production that ultimately leads to a brown-toned discoloration. It can become chronic, too, meaning that a thoughtful approach with the help of a dermatologist is usually recommended for this.

People with darker skin tend to be especially vulnerable to hyperpigmentation, “due to having more active melanocytes,” says Dr. Danilo. That means that any skin trauma, inflammation, or hormonal changes can result in more noticeable dark spots—which is why post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation tends to be a bigger problem among this demographic than is among people with fair skin. (In fact, research has found it to be the earliest sign of aging among people of color, whereas Caucasian folks are more prone to wrinkles.)

It depends on the pigmentation in question. “Over-the-counter face serums can be effective, especially for milder cases of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Danilo; these include acne scars or minor skin wounds. That’s because the melanin is in the epidermis, or most superficial, layer of skin.

On the other hand, “pigmentation disorders caused by deposition of melanin in deeper layers of the skin, which is more rarely seen, will not respond to these types of topical treatments and should be evaluated by a board-certified dermatologist,” says Dr. Park. “For a condition like melasma which is environmentally dependent, it is a chronic struggle that will unfortunately worsen at times.”

Also, if you experience recurrent hyperpigmentation stemming from a repeat cause—for instance, acne continuously pops up, creating new dark spots—then a visit to the dermatologist is recommended so you can address the underlying issue (in this case, the acne).

Finally, keep in mind that addressing hyperpigmentation is a commitment. “Any treatment used for dyspigmentation will realistically take weeks to months and require consistent use,” says Dr. Park. “Results are not immediate, but gradual.” And on that note, to both see and maintain results, using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher is critical. “Without consistent sun protection, it’s very hard to see significant improvements, as UV exposure can quickly undo the progress made by serums,” says Dr. Del Campo.

One advantage of hyperpigmentation is that, when it comes to active ingredients, the world is your oyster. There are a bevy of actives that can help, some of which are recognizable even to skin-care newcomers. Vitamin C, for instance, is “a powerful antioxidant that brightens and inhibits melanin production,” says Dr. Del Campo. (Dr. Park, for her part, thinks that it should be a staple in any good skin-care regimen, hyperpigmentation notwithstanding.)

Niacinamide is another ingredient that’s earned recent buzz; it works through a different mechanism than vitamin C to stymie pigment production, which is why you can frequently find them paired together. It “helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and strengthens the skin barrier, making it especially useful for sensitive skin types,” says Dr. Del Campo. Azelaic acid is another ingredient he recommends, especially for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma. “It works by inhibiting an enzyme involved in melanin production,” he says. You’ll also see kojic acid, tranexamic acid, and licorice extract among these formulas.

Finally, anything that helps skin shed its upper layer—which may house melanin deposits—can also fade the look of hyperpigmentation. That includes alpha hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acids, and retinoids. “These promote skin cell turnover, which helps fade dark spots over time,” says Dr. Del Campo.

• Danilo Del Campo, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Chicago Skin Clinic in Chicago.
• Michelle Park, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Washington Square Dermatology in New York.