Jangaon

Jangaon is a town, revenue divisional headquarters, and biggest town after Warangal and a Municipality in Warangal district in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. It is about 85 km from Hyderabad. There are 30 notified slum areas. Apart from the city population, it has a floating population of approximately 40,000 from the neighboring villages daily.

GEOGRAPHY:
Jangaon is located at 17.72N 79.18E. It has an average elevation of 345 meters.

DEMOGRAPHICS:
As of 2011 India census Jangaon had a population of 120,270. Males constitute 50% of the population and females 50%. Jangaon has an average literacy rate of 70%,higher than the national average of 59.5% male literacy is 79%, and female literacy is 59%. In Jangaon, 12% of the population is under 6 years of age.

HISTORY:
The name Jangaon evolved from "jain gaon" which means village of Jains, a religion of India. Kolanpak (kulpak) in the Nalgonda district which is about 20 km from Jangaon is a famous pilgrimage center for Jain people and it has much historical background. When the Jain religion dominated in India, most of the tourists from different places of India visited Kulpak. At that time most of the Jains settled in Jangaon, which was called Jaingaon at that time. Things changed from time to time and people started calling it "Jangaon".

CONNECTIVITY: Jangaon is well connected with rail and road routes. National highway 202, a State highway passes through the town. It is about 80 km away from the state capital, Hyderabad and 50 km away from Warangal city. Nearest air port is Rajiv Gandhi International Airport, Shamshabad, Hyderabad and Warangal Airport will also likely to be operational soon.

WEATHER: Jangaon experiences a tropical kind of climate. Its a drought prone area according to Geological survey. Experiences very hot summers, moderate winters and rains less than the average expectation.
COMMERCE: Nawabpet cattle market is the second biggest market in Telangana region of AP. MAJOR OCCUPATIONS: The people here directly or indirectly depend on agriculture. Farming, farming related business, education, retail and wholesale business, hand loom, weaving etc. include the major occupations of the people here.

Farming Sari weaving

Beedi making

CLUSTER FINDINGS
This village was visited by 9 Textile Design students to carry out the different surveys related to the various aspects of weaving (mechanism, loom parts, process, manufacturing, marketing, producing, raw materials, design and patterning) and the plight of the weavers and the handloom industry in this region.

After a thorough observation and conversing with the weavers in Jangaon following are the findings The main product is hand woven with dobby mechanism Silk Saris with beautiful patterns n designs. From the last 3 years no income has been provided from the Self Help Groups to the weavers. Due to low wages the weavers dont want their children to get into this profession and so they are being sent to Hyderabad for jobs that could get them better wages, even as meager as that of a coolies . Scholarship scheme is provided for the weavers children which is applicable only if there are 2 children in a family.

As the wages are low, this has become the major threat for Handloom in India. Central Government of India had issued a fund of Rs.60 lakhs for the welfare n growth of weavers in Jangaon but this did not even reach the them as it was all gone in the pockets of the Weavers Society Members. Training sessions were provided in which each weaver was given a sum of Rs.1000.

The looms provided by the government were not in proper condition which ultimately leads the weavers to buy the looms themselves. Few weavers have a bank account in which they are trying to save as much as possible, as minimum as Rs.50 every month. A sum of Rs.5 lakhs is deposited in the CoOperative bank by the Government which again does no good to the weavers because it never reaches them. Due to low wages the weavers are switching from handloom to power loom.

The biggest threat to the weavers profit is the Middlemen. They demand a bigger discount on each silk sari that is made and finally the weaver is at loss. He does not get the credit he deserves for his time and hard work spent on the hand loom.

The capacity of a handloom is 8 saris per setting.

The capacity of a power loom is 30 saris

Mr. G.M.Reddy (Faculty Fashion Design Department) giving the synopsis of the Cluster Project.

DETATCHING OF YARN FROM CHITKI FRAME

INTEROGATION WITH THE WEAVER

Yellamla
Mandal name:Jangaon District: Warangal State: Andhra Pradesh Yelamla is a village in Jangaon Mandal in Warangal district, Andhra Pradesh state in India. It is at a distance of 6 Km from the Weavers Society in Jangaon. It boasts of a Zilla Parishad School, a Clinic, a Post office, a Panchayat House. A total of 5 Textile Design students carried out the survey here.

THE VILLAGE
Around 100 families are occupants of Yelamla. The main difference between the saris woven in Jangaon and the ones woven in Yelamla is that here the saris have plain body but the borders and pallu have the dobby mechanized design/pattern.

The families apart from weaving are also engaged in other jobs to fetch better income, such as Beedi making in which the whole family is engaged. They get a meagre Rs.100 per 1000 beedis. Another business is that of owning a Kirana store.

SIDDENKI
Mandal name: Jangaon District: Warangal State: Andhra Pradesh

SIDDENKI is a village in Jangaon Mandal in Warangal district, Andhra Pradesh state in India. It is at a distance of 6.9km from its main town of Jangaon and 74km from state main city, Hyderabad.

THE VILLAGE:
This village was comparatively smaller to Jangaon and Yelamla but the villagers and weavers were extremely warm and eager but also these were the people who desperately needed help from financial oppression. First half-an hour was spent at Jai Hanuman SHG members home.

Most of the houses were built under the INDRAMMA HOUSING SCHEME (Integrated Novel Development in Rural Areas & Model Municipal Areas) which was launched by former Chief Minister of Andhra Pradesh late Dr. Y.S. Rajasekhar.

The objective of this program is to saturate the basic needs in respect of the identified activities in all the Villages and Towns over a period of Three years. A thing which was also noticed was that there have been no training programs for these weavers to improve their skill or to overcome the obstacles that they face from time-to-time.

The raw materials are sourced from Jangaon village. This village had more of semi- pucca houses and BEEDI MAKING is being practiced extensively as it has become their only stable means of fixed income due to the lack of funds and orders to weave saris.
Beedi Making

Semi pucca house

They are being paid a minimal cost of Rs. 90 to 100 for making 1000 beedis. The biggest positive factor about the people of this village along with Jangaon and Yelamla is that they all are willing to attend any training program if its beneficial, they are ready to shift their products and style of weaving if they get orders and resources to fulfill the incoming orders.

POCHAMPALLY
Pochampally is located about 50 km from Hyderabad on the road to Vijayawada in Nalgonda district. Pochampally is the hub of silk and cotton ikat sarees and other products. The sarees which are woven in Jangaon, Yellamla and Siddhenki are transported to Pochampally for further distribution and sales. Its is the main centre of ikat marketing which has also been studies by the puttapakka cluster initiative group.

IKAT BAG AND POUCHES

BAG

SAREES IKAT SAREES

POCHAMPALLY GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION CERTIFICATE

PRODUCTS SHOWROOM OF WEAVERS SOCIETY(Pochampalli)

PROCESS AND PREPARATION OF TIE AND DYE IKAT SILK SARIS IN JANGAON
RAW MATERIALS Silk (dupont, muga silk, pat silk) Cotton Zari Yarn is bought from nearby market place, there we found 3 shops fulfilling the raw materials required for weaving. However some weavers also get the materials through the agents.

ZARI BOBBINS

RAW SILK AND DYED SILK

DYES Various types of dyes are used as per the requirement. The different dyes used are: Chemical dyes Napthol dyes Vat dye

COLORS COMMONLY USED Red Maroon Yellow Green Dark diesel blue Grey Purple Blue Indigo blue

STORAGE OF DYES

TOOLS

CHARKHA

WARPING MACHINE

FRAME

SLAY

SMOOTH STONE

COMB

BOBBINS

DOBBY SHUTTLE

REED HOOK

PITLOOM

DYEING APPARATUS:

Bronze Container

Gas Stove

Gloves

Polybag

Bucket

Rope

Rubber strips for tying

Nylon rope

IKAT MAKING TECHNIQUES/VARIETIES:

Single Ikat

Single Ikat fabric are created by interweaving tied and dyed warp with plain weft or resisted weft yarns is inserted in plain weft.

Double Ikat is where both warp and weft are tie-dyed or more specifically, employs a variety of tie-dye resist techniques.

DESIGNS: Designs usually given by the agents placing the order or at times are decided by the weavers themselves based on their experience of what sells in the market.
GRAPHS

PRODUCTION PROCESS/ IKAT TECHNIQUE The Ikat technique allows the weaver to prepare precisely the exact pattern of colors on the finished fabric by wrapping sections of the yarn with rubber strips before dipping it in selected dyes. The use of resist or barrier to protect certain portions of the yarn or cloth from the dye is a way of enabling several colors to be used on the same textile.

Resisting yarns with rubber strips

THE BASIC STEPS IN PROCESSING ARE:

Warp and weft threads are divided into bundles or sets. The yarn is then tied with waterproof material, strips of leaf, rubber or plastic to correspond with the pre-arranged design plates. Then the tied bundles are dyed according to design. (This requires several stages of tying and dyeing, depending on the design). Resists are removed, aligned according to the pattern and put on the loom.

In Jangaon, Ikat fabric is produced on pit looms, and semicircular or rectangular frames are used in the preparation of warp and weft.

SINGLE WARP IKAT PROCESS FOLLOWED IN JANGAON:

RAW MATERIAL: Silk yarn is purchased in the hank form. DEGUMMING: of silk using soap. BLEACHING is optional and a compulsion when very light colors are to be dyed. YARN PREPARATION: Winding of the yarn using a charkha or the automatic machine into bobbins. WARPING: The yarn from the bobbins is then divided into various sections using a semi-circular frame.
Degumming Of Silk

Charkha (Manual)

Charkha (Automatic)

Warping

DESIGN MARKING: The warp or the weft which is on the frame is then marked with the required designs which are taken from graphs or by memory.

TYING AND DYING: After the design is marked, the yarn is tied sectionally using rubber strips according to the space they want to remain un-dyed. The first step of dyeing can also take place in the hank form if the yarn has a single base color according to the color theme chosen by the weaver.

Design Making

Design Graph

Tying using rubber strips.

Dyeing

SETTING THE LOOM: The yarns are set on the loom by passing the warp yarns through the eye heald and then the reed using lease rods. The punch cards are also set up. WEAVING: Shedding, Picking and Beating is the primary motions of weaving. Shedding movement consists of pressing the treadle with one foot, which makes the opening in the warp thread. The picking movement propels the shuttle by pulling the handle to let the shuttle move across to the other side. The beating movement consists of packing the weft threads by drawing the sleigh with the left hand. As the process is repeated the weft thread passes from side to side alternately over one set of wrap threads and under another.

Setting the Loom

Weaving

Peddle

DESIGN AND MARKET

There is a sizeable market for Ikat products. Master weavers too have their local channels of buyers, either private retail showrooms or other direct buyers. The contacts are established through the HHEC Handicrafts and Handlooms Export Corporation of India (HHEC) and fabric is exported to countries like Japan, Italy, Australia, Canada, etc.

SWOT ANALYSIS In case of any art, craft and product,when an action plan has to be drawn, there is a need to analyze its position that where it stands. To analyze it quickly most modern and effective method is of course SWOT analysis. In case of lkat too, there is need for this type of analysis if action plan need to be drawn ultimately.

STRENGTH (1) The design itself is unique cannot be imitated so easily. (2) There is a social support in certain lkats since they are linked with local tradition and rituals. Therefore certain patronage continues. (3) The states where Ikat is produced, it is considered as a pride craft. Therefore it is supported automatically.

(4) The craft has been produced since generations by these communities. Thus persons are trained from generation to generation. Therefore there is no need for additional training input.
(5) Being unique it has export demand too.

WEAKNESS

(1) The weavers are usually very conservative thus do not accept new design. Thus repetition of design causes erosion of local market.
(2) Weaving is organized sector. Thus they are often exploited by traders and do not get the value they are worthy of. This causes dissertation of weavers from the profession. (3) Being produced in low productive loom cost of fabric become abnormally high often beyond buying capacity of common customers. Therefore customers switch over to cheap imitations. (4) Dyes they use often not standard.

OPPORTUNITY (1) The uniqueness of design has great opportunity in future if designs are suitably developed according to customers choice. (2) Using it as dress material shall fetch greater opportunity for market growth if customer friendly readymade garments are made. (3) Due to uniqueness in design, the fabrics have opportunity in interior decoration.

(4) To inculcate vegetable dyeing and to create wider and higher market segments the following can be practiced:
Sourcing of pre-prepared vegetable dye powders and using them to dye which takes approximately 3 hours to boil.

Creating employment for the women by training them in preparation of dyes from the natural sources.

Thus maintaining the authenticity of the products and provision of wages to the women separately.
(6) Ikat was produced traditionally using vegetables or natural dye. There are persons even today having knowledge In natural and vegetable dye. If this knowledge be harnessed. The fabric has opportunity for growth In global market considering demand today. (7) If this design be combined with other traditional weaving designs. Scope of market can be further enhanced.

THREAT (1) Due to comparatively high price and production of imitation prints of ikat in mill sector the market is under constant scrutiny. (2) As economy opens up due to globalization and WTO there is possibility of sabotage by multinationals. Same way as was done by British' during colonial rule.

(3) Due to corruption in high places there Is possibility of sabotage even in Khadi & Handloom sector in favor of textile barons and multinationals. Indications are already visible with change of policy in financing, rebate and subsidy.
(4) Due to social changes with change in social value use of Ikat in ritual and tradition may be forgotten. (5) If conservative approach of weavers continued and there is resistance in change of design there may be erosion in market demand. (6) If standard yarn and dye are not made available, the fabric automatically shall earn bad name hence shall perish.

KEY BENEFITS OF A CLUSTER BASED APPROACH FOR DEVELOPING SMEs ARE: Networking among enterprises Economies of scale Improved bargaining power Technology and skill up gradation Global visibility and being part of the value chain Easier access to finance Greater institutional support.

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