Beardeddragon

Crochet pattern
Bearded dragon
by @TOTAKSUSHA
Bearded dragon
by Kseniya Abdullina.
I am glad to present to you the pattern for my toy. The size of
the toy depends from the thread that you will choose. This toy
is about 32 cm (12,6 inches) in lenght with tail. Lenght of tail is
18 cm ( 7 inches). Wish you create a pretty toy!❤
Kindly remind you that the paid and free distribution any
materials of this pattern is prohibited.
You may share and tag me @totaksusha when you post your
finished toy on Instagram or credit me as TotaKsushaDolls in
anothers social.
Visit me on Instagram to stay up to date on all of my sales,
specials and more:
https://instagram.com/totaksusha
You can find more my crochet patterns and handmade at the
following links, only in these shops I am selling my original
patterns:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/Tricksofthecrochet
or
https://www.ravelry.com/designers/abdullina-kseniya
Sincerely Kseniya Abdullina.

This pattern includes text, photos and video lessons.
Lessons are private, based on YouTube channel. Open every
video only from the direct link.
Change quality settings on the video if necessary.
Please read all instructions for the best result.
Video with ready toy.
https://youtube.com/shorts/lL54hXLwmr8
Materials and tools.
For this dragon are used yellow Pelican Vita Cotton ◦ PVA glue.
360 yards (329 meters)/50 grams (1.76 ounces) and ◦ Glass hemispheres for the eyes, diameter 0,8 cm.
beige Pehorka Openwork 306 yards (280 meters), 50 Or ready glass eyes.
grams (1.76 ounces). You can choose your style of
lizard. ◦ White or Yellow polymer clay for making eyelids.
And universal invisible glue, that not leave traces. I
◦Hook 1 mm, choose the hook for yourself. Crocheting recommend Moment Crystal by Henkel.
should be very, very tight.
◦ Floristic wire frame 1,5 mm and 0,95 mm .
◦Filler holofiber.
◦ Needles for sewing some details and for the mouth
◦Flat pliers and cutters for wire and helping with embroidery.
sewing details and eyelids and mouth embroidery.
Tweezers and wood sticks for stuffing. ◦ Silicone brush pen for sculpting and modeling.
◦Brown DMC floss threads for the mouth. And light ◦ For desired use varnish for the clay. I use UV gel
green for the throat. polish and UV lamp.
◦Soft pastel and acrylic paints, metallic acrylic. Acrylic ◦ For the claws two-component epoxy plasticine and
varnish. Brushes for painting different sizes. second glue or UHU universal glue.
◦ Permanent brown and orange markers. Orange water ◦ IMPORTANT. Please, read whole pattern till the end
liner for paint base contour. for choose your way making this toy.
Conventions and terms.
Please introduce with all terms. I use USA ◦ HDC - half double crochet.
terminology. ◦ DC - double crochet.
Sometimes i will use in text full termins, ◦ TC - treble crochet.
sometimes abbreviations. ◦ DTC – double treble crochet.
Amigurumi ring or magic ring. ◦ Work in back loop only.
◦CH – chain. ◦ Work in front loop only.
◦sc -single crochet. ◦ Picot – 1. Chain four. 2. Insert hook into back of first
chain made. (the one at the bottom, closest to the
◦inc – increase.
work). 3.Make a slip stitch OR a single crochet. The
◦dec – decrease. difference between the slip stitch and the single
crochet is how pointy you want the picot to be. If I
◦sl st – slip stitch.
use a single crochet the picot is a bit more round, if I
use the slip stitch method the picot is more delicate
– and also pointier. For this pattern both way are
convinient.
Back leg.
Begin crochet from the leg. It will more easy for make
right lenghr of the frame later.
Back leg. 2 details. Yellow color.
First finger. Make 6 CH, crochet 3 sl st and 2 sc from
the second loop.
Second finger. Make 9 CH, crochet 4 sl st and 3 sc
from the second loop.
Third finger. Make 8 CH, crochet 4 sl st and 3 sc from
the second loop.
Fourth finger. Make 8 CH, crochet 4 sl st and 3 sc
Fifth finger. Make 7 CH, crochet 3 sl st and 2 sc from
the second loop.
Next make 1 CH and crochet up on the fingers 2 sc on
the first finger, 1 dec (2 sc tog in the loop and second
finger), 1 sc (third finger), 1 dec (2 sc tog in the 4th
finger and loop), 2 sc on the last finger.
Back leg.
Make tighten stitches and insert hook by the way for not
make holes. Catch short tail during crocheting. Tighten
the tail and cut. Then crochet by continuous rounds.
Video how complete the fingers:
https://youtu.be/FU_k1CdcVX8
1) Make 1 CH, turn work and crochet 7 sc in the back
loops of the last row. Then turn work again and continue
in the round in front loops 7 sc.
In the next round join second color. Very important
change the colors by the right way. Pull out the beige
loop in the yellow loop. Catch the short yellow tail few
times, tighten and cut thread, let 2-3 cm inside body.
Also always catch not working thread. Maximum tighten
last loop of the old color. Always skip this loop in the
next rounds. Evenly tighten non working loop inside
canvas. Video how to change the colors:
https://youtu.be/0WoiPuQGWgY
Back leg.
2) Yellow 1 sc, beige 5 sc, yellow 8 sc. + 1 sc, change
place of the round beginning.
3) Beige 5 sc, yellow 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec = 12 sc.
4) - 6) Beige 5 sc, yellow 7 sc = 12 sc in every round.
7), 8) 12 sl st in every round with color changing
same in previous round.
9) Beige 5 sc, yellow 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc = 14 sc.
10) – 19) Beige 5 sc, yellow 9 sc = 14 sc in every
round.
20) Beige 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, yellow 9 sc = 12 sc.
21) Beige 3 sl st, yellow 1 sl st, 3 sc, 1 cluster (3 DC
together), 3 sc, 1 sl st.
22), 23) Beige 3 sl st, yellow 1 sl st, 7 sc, 1 sl st = 12
sc.
24) Beige 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, yellow 9 sc = 14 sc.
Back leg.
26), 27) Beige 7 sc, yellow 9 sc = 16 sc in every round.
29) – 32) Beige 9 sc, yellow 9 sc = 18 sc in every
round.
33) Beige 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, yellow 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec
= 14 sc.
Make 1 sl st and tighten last loop. Leave long threads
of 2 colors for sewing.
Back leg.
Front leg.
Front leg. 2 details. Crochet the same back legs, just
smaller size.
First finger. Make 5 CH, crochet 2 sl st and 2 sc from
the second loop.
Second finger. Make 7 CH, crochet 3 sl st and 3 sc
Third finger. Make 7 CH, crochet 3 sl st and 3 sc from
the second loop.
Fourth finger. Make 7 CH, crochet 3 sl st and 3 sc
Fifth finger. Make 5 CH, crochet 2 sl st and 2 sc from
the second loop.
Next make 1 CH and crochet up on the fingers 2 sc on
the first finger, 3 sc on the next 3 fingers, 2 sc on the
last finger.
Front leg.
Make tighten stitches and insert hook by the way for not make holes. Catch short tail during crocheting.
Tighten the tail and cut.
1) Make 1 CH, turn work and crochet 7 sc in the back loops of the last row. Then turn work again and
continue in the round in front loops 7 sc = 14 sc. + 1 sc, change place of the round beginning.
2) Beige 5 sc, yellow 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec = 12 sc.
3) – 6) Beige 5 sc, yellow 7 sc = 12 sc in every round.
7), 8) 12 sl st in every round with color changing same in previous round.
9) – 18) 12 sc in every round with color changing same in previous round.
19) Beige 5 sl st , yellow 3 sc, 1 cluster (3 DC together), 3 sc = 12 st.
20), 21) Beige 5 sl st, yellow 7 sc = 12 st in every round.
23) – 30) Beige 7 sc, yellow 7 sc = 14 sc in every round.
31) Beige 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, yellow 1 dec, 3 sс, 1 dec = 10 sc
Leave long thread for sewing.
The head.
Light beige color. Mark beginning of the rounds by
vanishing marker.
1) 7 sc in amigurumi ring. 2) 7 inc = 14 sc.
In the next round join second color. Very important
change the colors by the right way. Pull out the yellow
loop in the beige loop. Catch the short yellow tail few
times, tighten and cut thread, let 2-3 cm inside body.
Also always catch not working thread. Maximum tighten
last loop of the old color. Always skip this loop in the
next rounds. Evenly tighten non working loop inside
canvas.
3) Yellow 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, beige 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc = 18
sc.
4) Yellow 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, beige 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc = 22 sc.
5) Yellow 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, beige 1
inc, 10 sc, 1 inc = 28 sc.
The head.
sc.
inc, 14 sc, 1 inc = 38 sc.
sc.
inc, 18 sc, 1 inc = 50 sc.
10) Yellow 1 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, 10 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc,
beige 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc = 58 sc.
11) Yellow 1 inc, 8 sc, 2 inc, 12 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc,
12) Yellow 6 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc,
13) Yellow 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 5
sc, 1 inc, beige 28 sc = 61 sc.
The head.
14) Yellow 8 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc, beige
28 sc = 58 sc.
15) Yellow 1 inc, 6 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, 2 dec, 6
sc, 1 inc, beige 28 sc = 58 sc.
16) Yellow 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc,
1 sc in back loop, 6 sc, 1 inc, beige 28 sc = 62 sc.
17) Yellow 8 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 16 sc, 1 sc in back
loop, 8 sc, beige 8 sc, 12 sc in back loops, 8 sc = 62 sc.
18) Yellow 8 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 16 sc, 1 sc in back
loop, 8 sc, beige 4 sc, 4 sc in back loops, 12 sc, 4 sc in
back loops, 4 sc = 62 sc.
19) Yellow 2 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 16 sc, 1 sc
in back loop, 3 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, beige 4 sc in back loops, 4
sc, 12 sc in back loops, 4 sc, 4 sc in back loops = 68 sc.
20) Yellow 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 sc in back loop,
16 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, beige
4 sc, 4 sc in back loops, 12 sc, 4 sc in back loops, 4 sc =
72 sc.
Head and neck.
21) Yellow 2 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 sc in back
loop, 16 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 3 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 2
sc, beige 4 sc in back loops, 4 sc, 12 sc in back loops, 4
sc, 4 sc in back loops = 68 sc.
22) Yellow 2 sc, 3 dec, 3 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 16 sc, 1 sc
in back loop, 3 sc, 3 dec, 2 sc, beige 4 sc, 4 sc in back
loops, 12 sc, 4 sc in back loops, 4 sc = 62 sc.
23) Yellow 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc in back loops, 1 inc,
6 sc, 1 inc, beige 4 sc in back loops, 4 sc, 12 sc in back
loops, 4 sc, 4 sc in back loops = 66 sc.
24) Yellow 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 1 dec, (2 sc, 1 dec) * 4
times, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, beige 4 sc, 4 sc in back loops, 12
sc, 4 sc in back loops, 4 sc = 65 sc.
25) Yellow 4 sc in back loops, 4 sc, 4 sc in back loops, 1
dec, 3 sc, 1 double decrease (3 sc together ), 3 sc, 1 dec,
4 sc in back loops, 4 sc, 4 sc in back loops, beige 4 sc in
back loops, 20 sc, 4 sc in back loops = 61 sc.
Neck and shoulders.
26) Yellow 1 dec, 2 sc, 4 sc in back loops, 2 sc, 1 dec, 3
sc, 1 double decrease, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 4 sc in back
loops, 2 sc, 1 dec, beige 3 dec, 16 sl st in front loops, 3
dec = 49 sc.
27) Yellow 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 7 sl st, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec,
beige 3 sc, 16 sl st in front loops, 3 sc = 45 sc.
28) Yellow 2 dec, 4 sc, 7 sl st, 4 sc, 2 dec, beige 3 sc, 16
sl st in front loops, 3 sc = 41 sc.
29), 30) Yellow 3 sc, 13 sl st, 3 sc, beige 3 sc, 16 sl st in
front loops, 3 sc = 41 sc.
31) Yellow 3 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, beige 3 sc, 16 sl
st in front loops, 3 sc = 48 sc.
32) Yellow (1 inc, 1 sc) * 2 times, 1 inc, 16 sc, 1 inc, (1
sc, 1 inc) * 2 times, beige 22 sc = 54 sc.
33), 34) Yellow 32 sc, beige 22 sc = 54 sc.
Shoulders and body.
The frame.
Make frame for the body, wire 1,5 mm. On example 20

cm *2, fold in center and bend it on both sides.
Crocheted detail on this stage is 7 cm in length.
Measure your crocheted detail and calculate with
proportions length of the frame.
Make frame for the front paws, wire 1,5 mm. On
example length of the frame ONLY for one leg is 6 cm
plus 3 cm between legs and 1 cm for bend on the ends
(6*2+3+1 = 16 cm).
I recommend wrap all detail for the best quality of the
toy. I use medical cotton tape in roll. In this case wire
don’t move inside toy and will not pierce the canvas.
Shoulders and body.
35) Yellow 5 dec in the back loops, 12 sc, 5 dec in the
back loops, beige 22 sc = 44 sc.
36) Yellow 22 sc, beige 22 sc = 44 sc.
You can join body frame for the legs frame before insert
it or after, I made after. Continue crochet and attach
frame for the front paws, let frame for the legs out in
the places where colors changing.
Insert the frame in the head under legs. Insert frame for
the body under legs frame, wrap 2 frames together. First
wrap by threads, then by the tape.
38) Yellow 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc, beige 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc =
48 sc.
39) Yellow 1 inc, 22 sc, 1 inc, beige 1 inc, 22 sc, 1 inc =
52 sc.
Stuffing and tightening the head.
Stuff the head very well, pay attention for all
forms, left and right sides should be symmetrical.
Pay attention on the ear area. These are places on

the left and right sides on the level of 19-22
rounds. It should has concave form.
Make additional tightening for these places and

eyes. Use special threads or another durable
threads. Insert needle on the left side, leave a free
tail of thread, pull out on right side. Pierce head
few times from right to left and from left to right.
Every time tighten thread well with pushing
canvas. Return to the left side on place with tail,
knot tails and hide threads inside head together
with knots.
Stuffing and tightening the head.
Body.
40) Yellow 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc, 1 45) Yellow 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, 1 inc, 28 sc, 1
inc, 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, beige 1 inc, 24 sc, 1 inc inc, 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, beige 1 inc, 34 sc, 1
= 56 sc. inc = 76 sc.
41) Yellow 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 46) Yellow 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, 1 inc, 30 sc, 1
inc, 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, beige 1 inc, 26 sc, 1 inc inc, 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, beige 38 sc = 78 sc.
= 60 sc. 47) – 66) Yellow 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 36 sc, 1 sc in
42) Yellow 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, 1 back loop, 1 sc, beige 38 sc = 78 sc.
inc, 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, beige 1 inc, 28 sc, 1 inc 67) Yellow 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, 1 dec, 30 sc, 1
= 64 sc. dec, 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, beige 1 dec, 34 sc,
43) Yellow 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, 1 inc, 24 sc, 1 1 dec = 74 sc.
44) Yellow 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, 1 inc, 26 sc, 1 1 dec = 70 sc.
1 dec = 66 sc.
Body.
70) Yellow 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, 1 dec, 24 sc, 1
dec, 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 1 sc, beige 1 dec, 28 sc, 1
dec = 62 sc.
dec = 58 sc.
dec = 54 sc.
dec = 50 sc.
dec = 46 sc.
Tail frame.
75) Yellow 1 sc, 1 sc in back loop, 20 sc, 1 sc in
back loop, 1 sc, beige 1 dec, 18 sc, 1 dec = 44 sc.
76), 77) Yellow 24 sc, beige 20 sc = 44 sc.
Make frame for the back legs, wire 1,5 mm.
6,5 cm * 2 + 2,5 + 1 = 16,5 cm.
Join frame for back legs between colors changing.
After 77th round build up the frame for the tail,
wire 0,95 mm. 20 cm * 2, fold it twice. Insert in the
body wire and bend 4 cm. Totally added about 16
cm for the tail, plus 2 cm from the body frame
after 77th round = length of the tail 18 cm.
Body length now is 14 cm. Stuff the body very well
and evenly.
Tail.
79), 80) Yellow 24 sc, beige 1 sc, 18 sl st, 1 sc = 44
st. 26) – 28) 34 sc in every round.
29) 2 decreases on the sides = 32 sc.
Begin count from the first round, it is more 30) – 32) 32 sc in every round.
convinient. 33) 2 decreases on the sides = 30 sc.
1) – 4) Yellow 24 sc, beige 20 sc = 44 sc. 34) – 35) 30 sc in every round.
5) Yellow 1 dec, 20 sc, 1 dec, beige 20 sc = 42 sc. 36) 2 decreases on the sides = 28 sc.
37) – 39) 28 sc in every round.
6) – 9) Yellow 22 sc, beige 20 sc = 42 sc. 40) 2 decreases on the sides = 26 sc.
10) Yellow 1 dec, 18 sc, 1 dec, beige 20 sc = 40 sc. 41), 42) 26 sc in every round.
Only yellow color. 11) – 14) 40 sc in every round.
44) - 46) 24 sc in every round.
15) 2 decreases on the sides = 38 sc. 47) 2 decreases on the sides = 22 sc.
16) - 19) 38 sc in every round. 48) - 50) 22 sc in every round.
20) 2 decreases on the sides = 36 sc. 52), 53) 20 sc in every round.
21) – 24) 36 sc in every round. 54) 2 decreases on the sides = 18 sc.
25) 2 decreases on the sides = 34 sc. 55), 56) 18 sc in every round.
Tail.
58), 59) 16 sc in every round.
67) 1 decrease = 9 sc.
68) – 77) 9 sc in every round.
78) 1 decrease = 8 sc.
79) – 88) 8 sc in every round. Crochet till hide whole
frame inside. Maybe you will need less or more rounds
+/-.
89) 4 decreases.
Close hole by the needle. Hide thread inside.
Spiny scales on the head. First row.
We worked in back loops only during crochet the head
shoulders and body. We will crochet spiny scales in
abandoned front loops.
First row make around head and last row on the beard.
Join the thread on the 25th rounds on the head behind
the ear. Leave very long tail of the thread for crochet
second row.
Crochet 12 sc on the chick, 28 sc on the beard, 12 sc on
the other cheek. I marked loops on the photo by
vanishing marker.
Tighten last loop, tail hide inside head by the needle.
Crochet second row in the first row. Back to the place of
beginning. Crochet on the yellow side 2 sl st, 3 CH, 2 sc
in the chain from second loop, 3 sl st, 3 CH, 2 sc in the
chain from second loop, 3 sl st, 4 CH, 3 sc in the chain
from second loop, 3 sl st.
Crochet on beige bottom side (1 picot, 3 sl st) * 9
times, 1 picot, 3 sl st. Again on the yellow side 4 CH,
3 sc in the chain from second loop, 3 sl st, 3 CH, 2 sc
in the chain from second loop, 3 sl st, 3 CH, 2 sc in
the chain from second loop, 3 sl st. Tighten last loop
and hide thread inside head.
Spiny scales on the beard. Second – fourth rows.
Next make second row from the neck on the beard.
Again join thread on the beige side of the head and
leave long tail for the second row. I marked the places
on the photo. First crochet sc in the 28 loops and tighten
last loop. Next back to the beginning. Crochet 1 sl st, (1
picot, 3 sl st) * 9 times and 1 sl st. Threads hide in the
head.
Then make third row on the beard.
Join thread, look place on the photo. Don’t leave long
tail, catch short tail during crocheting few times, tighten
and cut. Crochet 2 sc, (1 picot, 3 sc) * 9 times. Tighten
last loop, hide thread inside head.
Then make fourth row on the beard.
Join thread, look place on the photo. Short tail hide
inside body after complete the row. Crochet 2 sl st, (1
picot, 3 sc) * 9 times. Tighten last loop, hide thread
inside head.
Spiny scales on the beard.
Spiny scales on the head. Crown.
Next crochet crown on the head.
Join thread on the head, on the 16th round upper the
eye. Look place on the photo. Crochet 5 sc, 1 pico, 2 sc,
(1 picot, 3 sc) * 6 times, 1 picot, 5 sc. Threads hide
inside head.
Spiny scales on the head. Crown.
Spiny scales on the shoulders and body.
Next crochet spiny scales on the shoulders on the right
an left sides. Join thread, crochet 2 sc, ( 1 picot, 3 sc) * 2
times, 1 picot, 2 sc. Hide threads inside body. Repeat on
the other side.
Next make spiny scales on the body sides. On the left
side crochet 1 row by sc from the front leg till back leg.
Tighten last loop. Then back to the beginning, crochet in
back loops only. Alternate 3 sc and 1 picot till the end of
the row. Turn and crochet in the front loops, also
alternate 3 sc and 1 picot. The picots of second row
should be between picots of the third row. Threads hide
inside body.
Repeat for the right side same way. Just begin crochet
from the back leg.
Spiny scales on the body.
Sewing the legs.
Fit on the legs. Frame should reach the fingers. Next
wrap the frame very neatly.
Insert frame in the leg. Yellow color should look up.
End of the frame should be strictly next to the
fingers. And whole frame should hide.
Neatly stuff the legs from the back side. Use
tweezers. Begin upper the wrist, don’t stuff under
knee. And stuff well upper part.
Sew every leg. Sew around the leg by the tighten and
frequent stitches, in every stitch of the leg.
Beige side sew to the beige belly and yellow side to
the back
Sew to the nearest stitches of the frame. Fasten and
hide thread inside the body.
Bend the legs strictly in wrist and knee areas.
Look video how to sew same legs:
https://youtu.be/8QzrKp3Uswc
I have other fabulous patterns for you.
For example beautiful amazing gecko.

on Ravelry:
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/leopard-
gecko-lizard
It will soon available on Etsy too.
The eyelids.
On my example inner corners of eyelids are between 7th
and 8th rounds.
Outer corners of eyelids are between 14th and 15th
rounds.
Take long yellow thread for crochet upper eyelids. Make
a knot.
With a needle, pull out the thread in one side of the
eye, check the strength of the fastening.
Make a loop and crochet 10 CH.
Tighten the last loop. Do not pull the thread out of the
needle. Insert thread on the other side of the eye,
tighten. Pull out the thread at the beginning of the
chain.
Pay attention that first rows of both eyelids should be by
wrong side side out. First rows should be crocheted
from the right side to left for look symmetrical.
The eyelids.
1) Crochet 1 sl st, 8 sc, 1 sl st on the chain.
Turn work.
2) 1 sl st in second stitch, 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc,
1 sl st.
The eyelids.
Fasten well both corners of the eyelid.
Make 1-3 tight stitches at the center of the eyelid so
that it locks. Sew tne iner side of eyelids to the
higher places above eyes area. Repeat with the
second eyelid.
Pay attention that the eyelids should be symmetrical.
For desired you can correct size of crochet eyelids,
depend on the your toy and eyes size.
The mouth.
Mark the symmetrical places for the mouth by the
vanishing marker. I stepped about 2 mm under yellow
color and draw the line.
Outer corners of the mouth are on the 16th round.
Middle of the mouth is in the center of the 1st round.
Take dark brown DMC floss in two threads.
Help yourself pull out the needle by pliers.
First embroider the pair of stitches in the center of
muzzle. Then pull out the needle on one of the side.
Hook on central stitch and back the needle in the
same place. Pierce the muzzle, pull out on the other
side. Again hook on central stitch in the other side
and back the needle same place. Repeat few times
alternatelly on the left and right sides. Left and right
sides are should be symmetrical. Fasten and hide the
threads.
Eyes making.
You can make eyes in any other way. I made eyes of
glass, acrylic paints and polymer clay. Baked and
glued them.
First draw the eyes on the flat surface of the
hemisphere (cabochon). Pre-surface degrease with
alcohol or acetone. Convenient fix the eyes on
double-sided tape.
Note that the hemisphere gives the effect of the lens,
everything that you draw will be increased. I always
make several pairs of the eyes, then to choose the
best one. Fresh paints are easily peeled off the glass
and can be redrawn on the same lens as many times
as you like.
Use black, yellow and acrylic paints and metallic gold
and dark silver acrylic paints.
Eyes making.
1. First draw small pupil by the black acrylic paint, I
use the dots for pupil. IMPORTANT. Dry the paints
after every step. Make symmetrical eyes.
2. Use very thin brush. Paint yellow thin contour
around the pupil.
3. Paint round of dark silver acrylic, use dry brush.
4. Cover well whole eyes with basic gold color.
Dry the eyes well and look your drawn.
Bake the eyes after painting in the oven on the
minimum temperature 15-20 minutes.
Evaluate the result. If you see the air bubbles under
the lenses, it means that the eyes are not good.
Clean the paints and make eyes again from the
begining.
I recommend make few samples. Choose one.
Eyes making.
Look the video for example, i made these eyes for the
cobras in other colors, but one technique is used:
https://youtu.be/-zvB3WK2BNs
I completed the eyelids with polymer baked clay.
Also used soft pastel, double sided tape, silicone pen
for sculpting, universal glue (I use Moment Crystal by
Henkel), brushes, paper box or baking bag, and oven
for bake details.
Also I recommend make few samples of the eyes.
Sculpt the eyelids and back side for the eyes.
Eyes.
On example was used «Craft & Clay»polymer clay,
yellow color. I also use «Fimo soft».
Roll two small balls for the back side. Roll these
balls on the back side.
Then sculpt the eyelids. Make very thin long roll,
attach it around the eye, sculpt the corners. Roll
on the back side.
Eyelids of the polymer baked clay.
Temporary glue the eyes under eyelids. Press little
for the back side of the eyes close to the head and
crochet eyelids. Corners of the eyes should be
symmetrical on the front side.
Make small folders on the bottom parts and small
pits on the upper parts, use thin silicon pen. Sculpt
final symmetrical forms for the both eyes.
Tint clay details BEFORE bake by soft pastels.
I have other fabulous patterns for you.
For example my amazing reptiles. All patterns are
unique and creative.
Welcome to visit my shops on Ravelry:
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bearded
-dragon-3
and Etsy:
https://www.etsy.com/TricksoftheCrochet
Tinting.
I use yellow clay and tint just the shadows on the
eyes.
Use yellow pastel for the all folders and brown
around glass part.
The pastel will stick to the clay and will be bake with
the top layer of clay.
Be very careful not to deform the details.
Crumble pastel into powder. For down parts i used
dark yellow shade, paint lines, for the upper parts –
light brown, paint small dots.
You can use white clay and tint whole eyelids by any
desired color.
Look the video for example, this is other toy, but one
technique is used:
https://youtu.be/oaG6k3SIdF8
Baking.
Separate the eyes very very carefully by silicone pen,
don't deform the eyes.
Bake the eyes. Baking time and temperature look in
the instruction for clay. It is important to bake
properly. If you are baking in an ordinary oven, use
box of thick paper so that the “chemistry” does not
settle on the walls of the oven.
I bake about 30 minutes at a minimum
temperature. My oven is too hot. I bake 15 minutes
with the slightly open door, and 15 minutes with
closed door. Polymer clay should be very durable
after baking.
Check the eyes after baking. If air bubbles did not
appear under glass, congratulations, everything is
made with quality. If you see the air under the
lenses, clean the lenses and make eyes again from
the begining.
I recommend wash all crochet toys before the final design.
Wash by hand ONLY. Choose temperature and detergent guided by toy material. My toy is completely
made of cotton, so i make hottest water and use strong detergent, only well dissolve it in water. Rinse well.
DO NOT SQUEEZE. Drying is better on the heater or pipe with hot water. Put a clean towel under the toy. It
is IMPORTANT to put the toy in such a way that the water from the dark parts does not drop Into the light
ones. Also you can dry in the suspended state in the fresh air.
Gluing the eyes.
I use the universal glue «Moment Crystal» by Henkel.
l give instruction for this type of the glue.
The toy should be dry.
Apply glue only on the head and eyes, wait a few
minutes. Glue the eyes, check position. Hold with
strong press a couple of minutes, for the good clutch.
Clean traces of glue. Let dry the toy for 24 hours.
Please, look two examples of the video how glue the
eyes and read whole instruction. These are other toys
but one technique is used.
https://youtu.be/CnPp7VhadH4
https://youtu.be/Z5xyy76jT3Q
The color of the clay details will not change without
varnishing. The varnish will not affect the quality,
strength and durability. This is for effect only.
I use a top UV gel polish and UV lamp . I used matt
varnish.
You can use another decorative varnish with matt
effect.
Priming.
I recommend make primer for the fingers, spiny
scale on the head and body.
Dilute PVA glue with water in a ratio of 1:2.
Soak the details with a solution by the wide brush.
Stretch and straighten the details in the wet state.
Give the desired form and position.
Dry, repeat the procedure after painting.
Tinting.
I use my own technique for tint the toy.
It is tinting with soft pastel. Pastel gives a beautiful shadow effect and a soft transition between colors. I dilute the pastel
with water so that it can be applied pointwise. Pastel with water does not need to be rubbed. It easily penetrates deep
into the fabric.
Crush the pastel into powder. Take one or mix a several colors to get the desired shade. Add a few drops of acrylic varnish
to the pastel and some warm water. Acrylic varnish fixs and protects the tinting.
The result is evaluated after drying, the wet toy is always more darker, do not be intimidated.
If you are afraid to spoil the toy, the first time you can make a tint without varnish. Pure pastel is easy to wash off. And if
everything is fine, cover it with a varnish solution with water on top.
Also i used permanent markers for this toy. Colors will dependon your base colors of toys and choosen design.
Based color of lizard is yellow as egg yolk.
Shades of pastel are light brown, dark brown, orange, flesh color. And dark brown and bright orange markers.
Painting.
Choose design for your bearded dragon. Look
photos and video of real lizard. I chose brightly
and colorful type.
1) Paint the base of the drawn by water liner. It is

more comfortable for the next painting. Paint
the strips on the head, central lines for the
back, strips on the tail and lags, make it
symmetrical. Between strips 5 rounds. Choose
light and suitable color of the liner, it should
hide under final painting. I used orange liner.
IMPORTANT. Dry the toy after every step
Painting.
2) Dilute light brown soft pastel with few spots of
acrylic varnish and water. Paint lines on the
head, central composition on the back, and on
the sides, strips on the legs and tail. Use thin
brush for make clear lines. Photo of the back
look on the next page.
Painting.
3) Again dilute soft pastel. Make bright orange color.
Paint the lines near brown on the back, tail and
sides. Spots on the head and stripes on the upper
eyelid.
Photo of the tail on the next page.
Painting.
4) Evalute the result. My brown color was too lightly, so I
paint the some contours with darker color of brown.
Photos on the next page.
5) Make orange contours with permanent marker. Make
orange spots on the legs.
6) Dilute soft pastel light pinky or beige color. Paint
contour for whole beige bottom part, all folds on the
legs, neck, under tail, area around mouth.
7) Paint ears and nostrils by dark brown permanent
marker.
Look video with tinting on YouTube:
https://youtu.be/E1f13SSZt3I
Dry the toy repeat priming if necessary.
Nostrils and ears. Bottom side.
Claws of epoxy plasticine.
For the claws I used two-component epoxy plasticine and
second glue or another quik glue.
Also need silicone pen, soft pastel and dark brown soft
pastel or brown acrylic paint.
Crumb dark brown pastel before begin work with claws.
Take equal part of two components, mix by fingers very
well.
After try to work very fast. I recommend make first one
or two legs, complete work and then make next one.
Make thin long roll, cut the roll. And make miniature
cones.
Apply glue on the toes and immediately glue the claws.
Epoxy plasticine with second glue are solidified
immediately.
Give for claws finally form with silicone pen or fingers.
Claws of the epoxy plasticine.
Immediately paint with soft pastel. Work very fast.
Leave the toy stationary for 24 hours.
After 24 hours use varnish.
I use a top UV gel polish for varnishing the claws. I used glance
varnish.
You can use another decorative varnish with glance or matt
effect for your choice.
The end.
Kindly remind you that the paid and free distribution
any materials of this pattern is prohibited.
You may share and tag me @totaksusha when you post
your finished toy on Instagram or credit me as
TotaKsushaDolls in anothers social.
Visit me on Instagram to stay up to date on all of my
sales, specials and more:
https://instagram.com/totaksusha
You can find more my crochet patterns and handmade
at the following links, only in these shops I am selling
my original patterns:
or
https://www.ravelry.com/designers/abdullina-kseniya
Sincerely Kseniya Abdullina.

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Crochet pattern

Sincerely Kseniya Abdullina.

Make frame for the body, wire 1,5 mm. On example 20

Pay attention on the ear area. These are places on

Make additional tightening for these places and

For example beautiful amazing gecko.

1) Paint the base of the drawn by water liner. It is

Sincerely Kseniya Abdullina.

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