Global Beauty Sector Report 2024
Global Beauty Sector Report 2024
Global Beauty Sector Report 2024
RetailX
Global Beauty
2024
In partnership with:
www.pfscommerce.com [email protected]
GLOBAL BEAUTY SECTOR REPORT 2024 | INTRODUCTION RXSBC24RP © 2024 Retailx.net
Introduction Featured
Contents
Figures
Annual online revenue for the beauty and personal care market 2019-23 5 The impact of social media on purchase decisions 23
Annual change in revenue by sector 2019-23 6 Social media sites shopped through in the past year 23
Annual change in revenue by region 2019-23 6 People who expect their favourite brand to host live shopping 24
Number of beauty and personal care e-shoppers 7 Frequency of returning product or packaging for recycling 25
Average spend of beauty and personal care e-shoppers 7 How often do you look for sustainability information when buying 25
Annual revenue by region 2019-23 8 The ecological impact of purchases needs to be clearer to shoppers 26
Average spend by region 2019-23 8 The RetailX Top100 30
How people buy beauty and cosmetics products, by country 9
Revenue by channel in selected regions 2023 9
Device usage by region 2023 10
Revenue by channel 2019-23 12
How people buy cosmetics and beauty products by generation 12
Likelihood of online purchasing behaviour over the next year 13
Device usage for beauty and personal care ecommerce 2019-23 13
Type of community lived in 14
Monthly online shopping expense by sector 14
How often people use a smartphone to purchase 15
People who have paid by mobile phone app 15
Expectation of virtual shopping assistants in the future 16
Expectation of augmented reality shopping in the future 17
People who subscribe to cosmetics or beauty boxes 19
Reasons for subscribing to cosmetics or beauty boxes 19
Digital innovation
drives a challenging
market
Cosmetics and beauty sales online are
increasing in what remains a challenging
market for brands and retailers
© Shutterstock
Economic and inflationary matters have impacted on
the cosmetics and beauty industry in the last year,
affecting prices of raw materials through to energy
and shipping. Consumer spending across multiple
retail categories has been deflated as a result of Sales are rising following the challenges of the pandemic years
rising prices.
A regional view
Asia is the largest online market for
cosmetics and beauty but other regions
are seeing higher growth
Amazon’s premium beauty business in the US is In 2023, US consumers of all races and ethnicities It is a different story in the UK where 37% of
growing fast. One of the ways it is enticing custom spent more than $142mn on new beauty and consumers buy most of their cosmetics and beauty
is through engaging tools such as video which helps wellness products created by Black entrepreneurs products online. The same percentage buys equally
brands tell their story while engaging consumers for and sold by national retailers, according to beauty online and in bricks-and-mortar stores. This makes
longer on the site. “We’ve incorporated the ability association BrainTrust Founders Studio. “Despite the UK an attractive market for omnichannel
for much more shoppable video so a brand can tell the fact that venture funding to Black founders has retailers such as Sephora, which is expanding its
their story in an interactive way,” Amazon’s head of fallen to a three-year low, Black beauty and wellness store estate outside of London having successfully
premium beauty Ali Kole told Beauty Inc. entrepreneurs are growing the American economy re-entered the market in 2023.
with new, innovative products and services that drive
Clinique is one of the brands using Amazon as a sales by leading retailers, online and instore, and Space NK is expanding its store estate too having
platform to reach new customers. The beauty brand create jobs,” says Kendra Bracken-Ferguson, CEO seen sales increase by 30% annually for three years,
has reported that the US Amazon Premium Beauty of the BrainTrust Fund. faster than the overall UK prestige market in which
store has “greatly exceeded retail sales expectations” it operates.
since its debut on the platform. “This new brand SALES IN EUROPE ARE GROWING WITH
experience will complement the high-touch, instore THE UK OFFERING NEW OPPORTUNITIES Estée Lauder reported double-digit growth in
experience our consumers already receive with our The cosmetics and beauty sector in Europe is seeing EMEA in 2023, driven mainly by the return of retail
Clinique Consultants in the stores of our long-term sales increase online following the few years of tourists from Asia, while Puig recorded a year-on-
retail partners throughout the US,” says Michelle decline witnessed during the pandemic. In 2023, year increase in sales of 18%. Its Charlotte Tilbury
Freyre, Global Brand President, Clinique. “Education sales increased by 2.21%, a small but definite brand expanded into new EMEA countries, including
has always been an integral part of Clinique and increase for what continues to be a challenging Poland, Sweden and Saudi Arabia, while continuing
we are excited to bring this aspect of our brand to market due to inflationary conditions. In 2023, sales to consolidate its presence in Europe, its largest
Amazon customers in the US.” of beauty and personal care products online in region by revenue, with strong growth in the UK,
Europe reached $26bn. This is up from $25.46bn Spain and France.
Brands have been innovating across channels in the the previous year.
US in the last year as well. 2023 saw Fenty Beauty [1]
https://www.businessoffashion.com/news/beauty/sephora-turns-to-nike-e-
launch its best-selling products at Ulta Beauty at The largest markets within Europe are Germany, commerce-exec-to-overhaul-china-business/
Target. The launch expanded the brand’s exposure France, Italy, the UK, Spain and Poland, according [2]
https://www.premiumbeautynews.com/en/us-beauty-sales-slow-
while making it more accessible to a mass audience to industry association Cosmetics Europe. in-q1-2024,23891
through instore sales and online on Target.com.
Target’s fulfilment enables customers to order The majority of sales, in terms of revenue, are
online and collect their purchase or have it delivered made in bricks-and-mortar stores (82%). More than
same day. “The goal has always been to bring Fenty a third of consumers in Germany buy the majority
Beauty to as many people as possible. I’m excited to of their cosmetics and beauty products from physical
introduce the Fenty Snackz and give Ulta Beauty at stores. 44% buy equally from stores and online,
Target guests a new way to experience our brand,” according to ConsumerX. Just 19% of German
said Rihanna ahead of the launch in October. consumers buy mostly online.
Examining how
consumers behave
Smartphones are the device of choice for
shopping online, a channel that is taking
an ever-greater share of the beauty sector
Cosmetics and beauty shoppers tend to be loyal to
certain brands and continue to buy specific products
from them once they are happy with their efficacy,
look or feel. Along with these cornerstones of their
skin care or beauty regime, many consumers like to
experiment as well, trying new products from their
favourite brand or those trending on social media,
new launches or niche brands.
Online sales
expand beyond
ecommerce sites
Brands and retailers continue to explore
technologies giving customers different
experiences and ways to engage
Ulta Beauty has seen “explosive growth” in the use AUGMENTED & VIRTUAL REALITY would like to see their favourite brands and retailers
of its mobile app, especially since innovating with INCREASE SHOPPER ENGAGEMENT offering an augmented reality experience, such as
new experiences such as analysing a user’s skin Augmented reality (AR) offers brands and retailers trying on colour cosmetics or placing virtual furniture
type to recommend skin care products and enabling a way to let customers try on products virtually, in a real room, according to research by ConsumerX.[3]
them to try on cosmetics virtually. It also acts as the overlaying colour cosmetics on the user’s face when
core place for managing loyalty membership and their image is picked up by a webcam or smartphone The technology has improved engagement online,
rewards. More than half of Ulta Beauty’s online sales camera. Its use on ecommerce sites and mobile apps as well as increasing sales. According to a 2022 study
are made using the mobile app. Customers use it in the cosmetics and beauty industry has become by Harvard Business Review, customers who used
instore as well, according to Dave Kimbell, CEO, mainstream, having been introduced increasingly AR spent 20.7% more time on a mobile app and
Ulta Beauty.[1] during the pandemic when consumers were unable to viewed 1.28 times more products on average. More
try on products in bricks-and-mortar stores. importantly, their likelihood of making a purchase
Therefore, it is unsurprising that brands and retailers during the session was 19.8% higher than customers
not only follow a mobile-first approach to designing AR is the one technology across the digital landscape who did not use AR. Looking specifically at cosmetics
digital experiences for their customers but they also that consumers would like to see introduced across and beauty customers, Google has found that AR
innovate with the functionality that smartphones more product categories. 36% of online shoppers increases engagement by 10%.
enable. Cameras, video, user-generated content and
social media are all being embraced by retailers,
brands, and the customers looking to become
more knowledgeable about cosmetics and beauty
ingredients and the latest trends, as well as be
entertained as part of their shopping experience.
© e.l.f. Cosmetics
app products and scenes in Camo Cove, Big Mood one of the first beauty shopping apps for Apple Vision
and Halo Glow areas have been modelled in 3D and Pro is an evolution for our brand, which has always
rendered at a 4K display from each eye of the device been digitally led. We are champions for innovation
with the experience encouraging users to unwind and new technology platforms. The decision to launch
and explore the environments that contextualise on Apple Vision Pro is not only natural for us; it is The e.l.f. Cosmetics app for Apple Vision Pro offers games and
an immersive experience
critical to continue to meet our community – and As an example, Ulta Beauty has found that around Generative AI is not siloed on mobile applications.
entertain them – wherever they are.” 95% of its sales are made to members of its loyalty Virtual agents can be introduced across different
programme and that 66% of customers count platforms, such as WhatsApp, Instagram, call
“We know that emotional connection plays a large themselves as beauty enthusiasts. This group centres, web, chatbots etc as well as working in
role in consumer decision-making, and that’s the accounts for 83% of revenue from beauty products. multiple languages, taking customer experience and
intention behind the e.l.f. app for Apple Vision Pro,” This first-party data is helping Ulta Beauty widen social commerce to a new level. “The development
says Neha Singh, CEO and Founder, VR development its business through retail media partnerships and process of this solution was challenging and,
company Obsess. “Your best e.l.f. app is a space expanding the reach of brands the company sells. simultaneously, very rich in learning,” says Santiago
where the e.l.f. community can indulge in a deeper UB Media, as it calls its retail media arm, is helping Santa María, Director of Conversational AI, NTT Data.
relationship with the brand through immersive brands connect with Ulta Beauty’s loyal audience “We trained the virtual beauty consultant for months
exploration and branded games. Offering users an of beauty enthusiasts through advertising and to ensure that it would achieve its goal to provide
entirely new way to engage with the brand, the app personalised engagement. consistent and responsive answers, even in the most
paves the way for a new era of spatial shopping and complex situations. From the Lore development,
immersive storytelling for beauty.” Elsewhere, generative AI, such as ChatGPT, has we know that we can offer a hyper-personalised
enabled conversational commerce so consumers can customer experience that allows us to train it on new
ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE speak or type using normal language when searching products and enhance its knowledge and sensitivity
The use of artificial intelligence (AI) is not new in the for a product or interacting with a customer services to interacting with humans. This is only the tip of the
beauty industry but its use is expanding as new ways chatbot and receive a human-like response rather iceberg on how artificial intelligence can empower
to utilise its pattern recognition and decisioning tools than a pre-programmed answer. L’Oréal worked with users and improve people’s lives.”
increase – and ways to work with generative AI are NTT Data on the implementation of Lore, its beauty
explored further. AI is helping with customer-facing advisor powered by a conversational AI platform, Sephora views AI as something that assists people
applications and operational processes. Instore which provides a hyper-personalised customer service and augments their expertise or skills rather than
beauty advisors are aided with clienteling apps and and recommends products based on their needs. replaces them. The company takes this same
virtual try-on online. It is personalising the customer Shoppers can then choose to buy products within the approach to AI across the business in areas ranging
experience on ecommerce sites and speeding app or be redirected to the brand’s ecommerce site. from logistics to HR. As Alexandre Meerson, Chief
up and automating internal processes such as Digital, Data and Technology Officer, EMEA, Sephora,
marketing and logistics operations. Lore is just the beginning of what the AI can achieve. explains, “AI is used to help the business detect more
“With this new technology, we will better understand subtle changes, to be more accurate, or in the case
AI is also proving powerful when working with data our consumers and provide them with superior of the instore clienteling app to put information in
collected as part of customer loyalty programmes service, since Lore can hold a fluid conversation the hands of beauty advisors when they need it. This
and learning from customer behaviour. This is an just like a person and can advise them on the best could be answering a customer’s skin care question
interesting proposition for increasing customer products, reducing the margin of error,” says Arturo if the person who is the expert in this area is busy
lifetime value while also appreciating that the Pérez-Wong, General Manager of CPD CERAN at with a different customer, or translating a question
majority of sales are made by customers who are L’Oréal Chile. “This is the starting point for a solution from an overseas visitor.”
already loyal. that will evolve”.
[1]
https://nrf.com/blog/ulta-beauty-creates-diverse-yet-unifying-experiences
[2]
https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/strategy-and-corporate-finance/our-
insights/how-innovative-companies-leverage-tech-to-outperform
[3]
https://internetretailing.net/ar-tops-new-ways-of-shopping-consumer-
research-finds/
In depth with
Sephora
Alexandre Meerson, Chief Digital, Data and
Technology Officer, EMEA, Sephora, spoke
to RetailX about Sephora’s approach to
omnichannel and personalisation
Sephora is a global,
omnichannel retailer
selling a curated mix of
© Sephora
prestige beauty brands. Its
loyalty scheme has 150mn
members, with half of them
being what the company brands it offers. “That creates an attraction and on all areas of retail technology including point-of-
describes as “very active”. customers seek our advice and point of view,” sales payments, anti-fraud measures and customer
These customers are says Alexandre Meerson, Chief Digital, Data and service. More importantly, the digital team operates
always on the lookout for Technology Officer, EMEA, Sephora. “It gives us the as a commercial business team.
innovations, both in terms responsibility to always look to satisfy our current
of the products they buy and the services offered, customers and, at the same time, offer them “We’ve buried the old approach, which was to look at
requiring Sephora to not just be a leader in the something new,” he adds. conversion. Conversion is just an output of multiple
market but to challenge itself as well. actions and plans and strategies to improve sales.
THE OMNICHANNEL CUSTOMER So now we only look at the customer; at customer
Sephora’s success resides in its efficient and data- The digital team at Sephora in Europe and the engagement, at customer value, at purchase value,
driven approach to retail. It is guided by the constants Middle East is accountable for the P&L of the entire and returning customers,” explains Meerson.
of operational excellence, attention to detail, retail tech experience across all channels, including
constantly reviewing processes, availability, sales ecommerce and the business generated in store with This switch has required a longer term, more
ceremony etc, while at the same time being driven by digital tools. This means a single team is focused sustainable viewpoint to be taken, and one that’s
data, fuelled by traffic and customer relationships. on both the design and delivery of omnichannel taken from the perspective of the omnichannel
services, as well as being accountable for the end- customer. “We take a longer term view of our
Additionally, Sephora is a brand in its own right, it to-end customer experience online and in store. The business because what we want is to make sure that
has a point of view, and that shows through in how team incorporates an array of functions including our clients are satisfied and happy and that when
it curates products, the assortment and exclusive data insight, product UX and technical teams working they think beauty they think Sephora. We can only
© Sephora
interaction and engagement while the focus instore The app was rolled out across continental Europe
sees the LVMH-owned business delivering services during a three-month period and is yet to launch in
that go beyond verbal advice. This includes tools the UK. It has been designed to engage consumers
that help beauty advisors in their interactions with self-service tools enabling them to discover
with customers. and select products, as well as interact with expert The business has put a lot of focus on CRM and the
beauty advisors and customer services. This app has requirements to delight and surprise customers. This
“We work hand-in-hand with the retail teams to “literally driven our growth over the past 12 months will see the UK pioneering a new loyalty programme
make sure that when we implement something in an extraordinary way,” says Meerson. with the aim of increasing omnichannel engagement.
everyone is properly trained and we get feedback The loyalty scheme will be rolled out to other
from the field. Each implementation has a business In its stores recent markets in the future.
case which spans over the years, and this includes digital developments
adoptions. So, it’s not about adding more features, include the launch of “By having this huge and incredible community of
but it’s implementing the right features and making a clienteling app opening customers, we are now able to use data in a much
sure they are properly adopted and used across the up the customer’s more sophisticated way. And we’ve developed
business,” says Meerson. omnichannel journey that over the last 12 years with the introduction of
and history to the beauty artificial intelligence, and every year making strides
Having a longer-term view has resulted in changes advisor. This in turn towards personalisation. And now we are closing the
to how the business trades on a daily basis. The then feeds Sephora’s loop in the sense of offering personalisation from
influence of digital activation on all channels is digital channels online to the store,” says Meerson.
closely monitored so resources can be allocated with the customer’s
to the right drivers of traffic or conversion. As a instore interactions Data from online, such as emails or texts that are
© Sephora
result, promotion-driven sales and discounts have when they next go online read, interaction with customer service, search
decreased and continue to do. or use the mobile app. engine use is now available in store through the new
© Sephora
is for a customer to be both online and offline, how
complementary those channels are, and it’s proving
extremely efficient,” he adds.
The UK will be a test bed for other omnichannel business in areas ranging from logistics to HR. such as on-site search, something that Sephora is
services as the retailer continues its plan of opening AI is used to help the business detect more subtle implementing over the coming months. This will
additional bricks-and-mortar stores in the country. changes, to be more accurate, or in the case of the enable consumers to type in the search bar “I’m
This will not be at the expense of instore experiences instore clienteling app to put information in the going to ski what’s the best thing for me,” rather
that consumers expect already from Sephora such hands of beauty advisors when they need it. This than having to type in “cold weather SPF protection”.
as masterclasses, tutorials and tie-ins with products could be answering a customer’s skin care question
that are trending on social media. Sephora has found if the person who is the expert in this area is busy Beauty tech is another area which is evolving rapidly,
that consumers in the UK are happy to share their with a different customer, or translating a question opening up new categories for Sephora, with the
thoughts and feelings on innovation. from an overseas visitor. launch of new products enabled by the internet
of things. “I’m very excited and looking forward
USING AI TO AUGMENT HUMAN EXPERTISE FUTURE DEVELOPMENTS to looking at new beauty accessories that will be
“There’s nothing intelligent about AI,” believes Sephora will be launching a single diagnostic tool empowered by technology, the internet of things
Meerson. “It’s about helping someone digest more enabling beauty advisors to test a shopper’s skin v3, the new generation of diagnostic or accessories
information to make the right decision”. He explains and hair and recommend the right products. “This that can be connected to an application or artificial
that a beauty advisor’s experience shapes the is a something quite exciting for us to move from intelligence,” says Meerson.
recommendation that they’re going to make to a several tools to one that can really address different
customer instore so AI complements that with new subjects,” says Meerson. Lastly, he mentions SEO and the impact that AI will
information or a wider stock of data. “It means it have on product pages. He predicts they will become
augments, or it assists the human being,” he adds. He’s also excited to see the effect that generative increasingly immersive, enabling Sephora to invent
Sephora takes the same approach to AI across the AI will have on the customer experience in areas new ways to engage customers and its community.
Social platforms
as marketplaces
Shoppertainment through social media
videos and livestreaming is engaging
consumers around the world
The increasing use of smartphones as a way to
shop online is changing how consumers discover
new products and how they search for them. The
traditional method of using a search engine to start
a product search is declining, with GenZ less likely
to use Google, Bing etc than other adults.
TIKTOK AS A MARKETPLACE
TikTok’s audience skews towards GenZ with 40%
aged between 18 and 24. In the UK alone TikTok has
more than 20mn users and that figure continues to
increase, as does the length of time the audience
spends on the platform. The average user spends
70 minutes per day engaging with videos. This
captive audience is a huge draw for brands targeting
younger generations and is particularly effective for
cosmetics and beauty brands.
Improving the
sustainability of
cosmetics and
beauty products
The industry looks close to a solution
to help consumers actively researching
the impact of beauty products
Legislation around the world is increasingly requiring
brands and retailers to reduce their impact on the
planet while also ensuring safe and fair working
practices for everyone throughout their supply
chains. In the EU, the latest Extended Producer
Responsibility regulation is expanding to waste water
making cosmetics manufacturers pay for clearing up
pollutants such as microplastics.[1]
At Clarins, 80% of its ingredients are plant PRODUCT LABELLING NEEDS TO BE CLEARER throughout their lifecycle and a scoring system
based with eight ingredients being grown using While regulators, businesses and consumers want which can be used by everyone across the industry.
regenerative agricultural principles to maintain a the beauty industry to improve its procurement A database of the environmental impact of commonly
healthy ecosystem. The company began measuring practices, consumers also want brands to be more used ingredients and raw materials for products
its greenhouse gas emissions in 2007, according transparent about their sustainability endeavours. and packaging is being developed as well. The
to Virginie Courtin, Managing Director & Board 19% of consumers always look for the sustainability Consortium, which has a membership of 71 beauty
Member, Clarins. The company is leading by example criteria of the products they are buying while a further brands, retailers and associations, is basing its work
and sharing knowledge with its suppliers and sharing 32% do so most of the time. 33% do so sometimes. on the European Union’s PEF scientific method.
good practice. However, the majority of online beauty purchasers
believe the terminology used to explain ingredients In March 2024, the Consortium put out for public
Clarins is one of the founders of the Responsible and their efficacy can still be unclear or confusing. consultation a methodology, scoring system and
Beauty Initiative, a group seeking to improve suggested layout for consumer-facing materials
sustainability throughout beauty supply chains. The A cross-industry collaborative group is trying to enabling customers to understand and benchmark
group meets quarterly to share best practices and make sustainability more transparent for consumers products against others when shopping.[2]
processes, and a pool of EcoVadis scorecards that and help them to make better informed purchasing
track the sustainability performance of suppliers. decisions. Since 2021, the EcoBeautyScore [1] https://www.premiumbeautynews.com/en/wastewater-eu-parliament-
Other members include L’Oréal, Coty, Groupe Consortium has been working on a methodology votes-for,23716
Rocher, LVMH, Groupe L’Occitane and Shiseido. for assessing the environmental impact of products [2] https://www.ecobeautyscore.com/public-consultation/
In depth with
Avon
Natalie Deacon, Director Corporate Affairs
and Sustainability, Avon International,
spoke to RetailX about the company’s
focus on social and environment
© Avon
and Sustainability, Avon
International, explaining
how social is as important
as the environment to the at ways it can improve the reps’ awareness of says Deacon. “For those people who want to
beauty business. “We, as environmental sustainability, such as informing understand more we need to make sure that
an organisation, are part of them about products and increasing awareness of every single thing we say is backed up and we
an ecosystem of people and recycling and how they can reduce their footprint don’t use spurious claims out of context and we
the planet that we work on so we have to tackle all by delivering orders on foot rather than by car. This are giving that broader life-cycle assessment when
of these things,” she says. helps inform customers as well. we share anything,” she adds.
This focus on women’s rights is at the core of the However, one of the biggest challenges is getting A labelling system being developed by Avon, and
138-year-old brand. As such, it influences the cut-through with messaging. “People want to make other companies in the cosmetics and beauty
company’s sustainability strategy and interactions sustainable choices but it’s not their primary driver. industry, will help consumers compare products
with suppliers. As an example, its membership of They want a great product that performs really well and understand the impact of what they are buying.
Action for Sustainable Derivatives tackles gender- at a great price, and they want to know that it’s “Until we start talking the same language that
based violence among workers in Indonesia’s palm sustainable as well,” says Deacon. people can recognise from one product to another
oil industry. it’s going to be really difficult for our customers to
Avon is signposting as much as it can on product make decisions.”
Social and sustainability come together in dealings packaging using simple language rather than
with the self-employed reps who sell the brand scientific terminology. “We need to be able to show
to local audiences as well. Avon continues to look people really clearly this is a sustainable choice,”
shift is driven by the socio-economic uncertainties with clean lines and understated elegance. Marketing
Expert insight of recent years that have made consumers more campaigns focus on the science and results behind
discerning about their purchases, prioritising value the products rather than extravagant claims and
The paradigm
and results over superficial appeal. celebrity endorsements.
As a result, beauty brands must now emphasise Of course, there is still room for the more maximalist
beauty industry:
the outer shell presents.
SCIENCE AND FUNCTIONALITY
prioritising efficacy
Consumers are no longer swayed by flashy packaging Transparency is essential, consumers expect brands
or influencer-heavy advertising campaigns. Instead, to be open about their ingredient lists, sourcing
they demand proof of product effectiveness, seeking practices, and the research behind their products.
and sophisticated out items that can deliver tangible results. This
change in consumer behaviour has been catalysed
This demand for transparency is partly driven by
the rise of social media and beauty influencers who
simplicity
by a growing awareness of the ingredients in beauty scrutinize products and share their findings with large
products and their impact on skin health. audiences. One viral TikTok can spell the end for a
brand that has been disingenuous about the ability of
Science-backed brands are paving the way by focusing a product.
on straightforward, clinically tested formulas that
Jamie Saucedo
are both affordable and effective. These brands HOW CAN BRANDS ENSURE TRANSPARENCY?
Senior Vice President, prioritize transparency, providing detailed information
Business Operations, PFS, about their ingredients and the science behind their • Clearly labelled products, no ‘secret ingredients’
on changing consumer products. This approach not only builds trust but also
behaviour and the empowers consumers to make informed decisions • Access to clinical study results, emphasis
role of brands in about their skincare routines. on research
embracing change
SIMPLICITY, MINIMALISM, AND TRANSPARENCY • Simple ‘no frills’ packaging design
The beauty industry has long been synonymous ‘Clean Beauty’ is a phrase you can find all over social
with opulent packaging, high-end marketing media right now. This trend is characterised by a • Engaging in honest marketing, for example, brands
campaigns, and a focus on extravagance. However, preference for high-quality, effective products that using models with eyelash extensions to advertise
a radical change has been occurring, redefining the eschew unnecessary frills. Consumers are drawn mascara- this won’t fly with today’s consumers
industry’s priorities. to brands that exude a quiet sophistication, valuing
substance over superficiality. THE ROLE OF BRANDS IN EMBRACING CHANGE
Beauty consumers increasingly value scientifically The global socio-economic landscape has significantly
backed results, functionality, and transparency over This shift is evident in the design and marketing of influenced consumer behaviour in the beauty
flashy packaging and extravagant marketing. This beauty products. Packaging is becoming more minimal, industry. Economic instability and the still ongoing
In an industry that thrives on innovation, staying at Brands prioritising scientific backing, advanced
the forefront of research and development is crucial. formulations, and honest marketing are poised
Advances in biotechnology and dermatological to thrive in this new landscape. The emergence
science are leading to the creation of highly effective, of sophisticated simplicity as a defining trend
targeted treatments that address specific skin underscores a shift towards a more informed, and
concerns. These innovations range from personalised conscientious consumer base. In embracing this
skincare solutions, which use AI and genetic change, beauty brands can redefine luxury, foster
information to tailor products to individual needs, to trust, and meet the evolving needs of consumers in
breakthrough ingredients like peptides, niacinamide, 2024 and beyond.
and probiotics.
Allies of Skin
Singapore-based Allies of Skin launched in 2016
with three products and has since expanded
to a complete range of science-based skin care
products. The brand says its uses clinically-proven
actives in supercharged concentrations to achieve
maximum results in minimum steps. It sells
© Allies of Skin
through other retailers and digital marketplaces as
well as its own D2C site online.
“The last eight years has been an exhilarating When purchasing, customers can buy a single
journey, from an unknown brand to becoming bottle of product or choose to have the item auto-
Singapore’s most global skin care brand”, says replenish for a certain number of months. This
Nicolas Travis, founder and CEO, Allies of Skin. reduces the price per bottle. Discounts on buying
two or three separate items are available as well
The company is in the process of expanding into for customers building their skin care regime.
the US market following a $20mn cash injection
from Meaningful Partners. This will see the brand The brand’s loyalty scheme further helps with
following a growth strategy of entry through customer retention especially as customers receive
listings on digital and retail platforms, furthering double points on auto-replenishment orders. The
marketing efforts with paid media and influencers, loyalty scheme uses four levels, called silver, gold,
driving cutting-edge new product research and platinum and black, through which customers
development, and building a US-based team. The ascend as the level of their spending with the brand
expansion follows the brand hitting positive EBITA increases. Customers reaching the highest level of
in 2023, according to Tech in Asia.[1] the loyalty programme are invited to a one-to-one
video chat with Nicolas Travis.
Allies of Skin’s own ecommerce site helps
consumers find the right skin care routine through [1]
https://www.techinasia.com/allies-skin-raises-20m-fuel-expansion
Charlotte Tilbury
Charlotte Tilbury owner Puig listed on the Spanish
stock exchange in 2024, marking what the
company is calling “a transformational moment”.
Up until then, the company had been guided
by three generations of the same family over
© Charlotte Tilbury
its 110-year history. The IPO was multiple times
oversubscribed with strong demand from Spanish
and international investors.
Douglas
Omnichannel beauty retailer Douglas listed on
the Frankfurt stock exchange in March 2024
enabling the company to reduce net debt by
€1bn and increase financial flexibility. “With this
important step, we have established a strong
financial foundation for the coming years,”
said Mark Langer, CFO of Düsseldorf-based
© Douglas
Douglas Group.
Glow Recipe
Friends and ex-L’Oréal employees Sarah Lee and
Christine Chang launched Glow Recipe ten years
ago as a retail site introducing Korean skin care to
the US. “We wanted to find a way to have people
truly enjoy skin care, immerse themselves into the
experiences while not compromising ever on the
© Glow Recipe
efficacy of the products,” Sarah Lee told Today.[1]
Milk Makeup
New York-founded colour cosmetics brand
Milk Makeup launched in 2016 with a range
of 85 products. All are vegan, cruelty-free, and
paraben-free, and many are multipurpose. In
2023, Milk Makeup was the number two clean
makeup brand at Sephora in the US.
© IMilk Makeup
In 2022, Milk Makeup was acquired by Waldencast,
an acquisition company with a vision “underpinned
by its brand-led business model that ensures
proximity to its customers, business agility and
market responsiveness, while maintaining each Milk Makeup sees the UK as a priority market and
brand’s distinct DNA,” according to executive is expanding through Boots’ bricks-and-mortar
chairman Felipe Dutra. “The Waldencast platform stores. It launched in the country in 2019 and
is built to support and accelerate brands like Obagi is stocked online by Cult Beauty, Space NK and
Skin Care and Milk Makeup and help them reach Asos, and in the London stores of Sephora and
their full potential. The Waldencast, Obagi, and Selfridges. The brand is normally sold exclusively
Milk leadership teams combine years of industry through Sephora but a deal has been struck with
specific operational experience with a passion for Boots due to the extent of its bricks-and-mortar
beauty and the proven ability to navigate a dynamic store network, Kate Millington, Senior Director, PR
business environment,” he said at the time. and Community Engagement, Milk Makeup, told
Cosmetics Business.[1]
Milk Makeup’s revenue grew 38.6% in its 2023
financial year reaching $100.5mn. Adjusted EBITDA Milk Makeup’s US ecommerce site highlights the
was reported as $18.4mn, above 2022’s figure best-selling products on the homepage as well
of $6.9mn. This was driven by “the successful as videos showing them being applied. Award
implementation of its strategies, resulting in strong winners and new items are badged and show what
growth on core product category pillars, blockbuster other customers think about them in the form of
innovations and robust internationalisation” said star ratings. Customers are invited to upload their
Michel Brousset, founder and CEO, Waldencast. own photographs as part of their written review.
Rare Beauty
Rare Beauty was founded by US singer and
actress Selena Gomez launching its first products
in 2020. All are vegan and cruelty free. 2023 saw
the brand adding body care items to its lineup
of skin care and colour cosmetics.
© Rare Beauty
Revenue in its latest financial year is believed to
have reached more than $300mn with the brand
reporting phenomenal growth. Rare Beauty is
the fastest growing celebrity cosmetics brand
on social media where it attempts to break The brand also has an accessibility initiative to
down unrealistic beauty standards empowering make products easy to open and apply. It plans
followers with “makeup made to feel good in, to use information from a partnership with Casa
without hiding what makes you unique.” Rare Colina Research Institute when designing future
Beauty has 7.4mn followers on Instagram and products and to share these findings with other
3.9mn on TikTok. It is also one of the best selling brands in the industry.
brands at Sephora.
Rare Beauty’s ecommerce site is localised in terms
In March 2024, Rare Beauty started exploring of currency to multiple countries with consumers
future options with financial advisors regarding offered a discount on their first order if they spend
the sale of the brand which could see it valued over a certain amount. This is £30 in the UK.
at $2bn.[1]
Wellness and self care feature heavily on the site,
Gomez appears to have been hands-on with the with videos leading consumers in meditation,
brand, not just appearing at product launches. showing them how to massage their scalp or
Transparency about her own mental health has unwind with yoga. This Comfort Club is given as
driven the brand’s Rare Impact Fund which aims much prominence in the site’s navigation as a
to raise $100mn over ten years to support people shade finder quiz, the impact fund and ‘shop’.
in this area. One per cent of the brand’s sales go Clicking through to the shop, gives further options
to the fund along with money donated by other to shop all, new products, best sellers, products
organisations. To date, is has raised more than for the face or body.
$5mn and invested $3mn.
[1] https://www.businessinsider.com/rare-beauty-sale-could-make-
selena-gomez-billionaire-net-worth-2024-3
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Conclusion
The majority of cosmetics and beauty sales remain RESEARCH: This report may not be stored in a retrieval system,
Researcher Anna Segarra Fas distributed or sold in whole or in part without the
in bricks-and-mortar stores but the experience is
For questions about our research and to send publisher’s express permission. Fair quotation
being enhanced increasingly by digital tools in the feedback, please email the team via: is encouraged, with a link to the report’s URL on
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the experience is becoming more immersive, with RetailX 2024 are provided under the Attribution-
consumers engaged for longer as they seek out aids Research Director Martin Shaw NoDerivatives 4.0 International
and advice to help with specific purchasing journeys CEO Ian Jindal
(CC BY-ND 4.0) license (https:creativecommons.org/
as well as entertaining interactions. licenses/ by-nd/4.0/). You are welcome to
EDITORIAL: use these in full with a link to this report,
Editor Emma Herrod retaining the copyright notice RetailX 2024
Brands and retailers understand how consumers Production Editor Gary Tipp
shop in different ways and continue to invest in Managing Editor Jonathan Wright This report is based upon our reasonable efforts to
innovations that enhance the immersive nature of compile and analyse the best sources available to
DESIGN:
ecommerce and social media. Rich content, AI-driven us at any given time. Opinions reflect judgment at
Art Editor Laura Ross
marketing and customer services and omnichannel Cover Design Lauren Coburn
the time and are subject to change.
capabilities are enabling leading brands and retailers
MARKETING: RetailX at InternetRetailing Media Services Ltd
to drive sales in mature ecommerce markets, as well
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