Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine

Single needle lock stitch machine is stitch by one needle of a machine by lock stitch.

Different Parts of Single Needle Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

1. Bobbin Winder

2. Thread wiper device

3. Lifting lever

4. Hand swatch A

5. Hand swatch B

6. Work Clamp

7. Knee lifter plate

8. Power stitch

9. Oil gauge window

10. Oil feeding pocket

11. Machine pulley

12. Operation panel

13. Cotton stand

14. Control box

15. Power indicator

16. USB port

17. Pulley cover

18. The thread takes up cover

19. Finger guard

Features of Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine

Single needle lock stitch machine is called a plain needle sewing machine. Single needle lock stitch
machine is mostly used as an industrial sewing machine. Modern single needle lockstitch has a thread
trimmer which operates at the highest speed of its kind. Lockstitch machine is the most commonly used
sewing machine in the apparel industry, especially in woven garments. Here in this article, I am going to
share Features of Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine with you for a clear understanding of single needle
lock stitch sewing machine.

Types of Lock stitch Sewing Machine There are two types of lock stitch sewing machine used in a
garments factory.

1. Single needle lockstitch machine

2. Double(two) needle lockstitch machine

Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine Single needle lock stitch machine is stitch by one needle of a machine
by lock stitch.

Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine Double-needle /twin/two needle is a needle with a single shank and
two shafts, proceed stitching with the double stitching you will get two parallel rows on the face of the
fabric and a zig-zag stitch on the back of the fabric.

Features of Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine

1. Two thread need for a machine, one for needle and another one for bobbin

2. Needle thread set in the upper side of fabric and bobbin thread set in the lower side of the fabric in
stitch

3. Stitching type only lock stitch

4. Machine speed is 4000-5000 RPM

5. 1 needle in every machine

6. Edge cutting, automatic bobbin winding

7. Less noise, low vibration, no radiation, and environment-friendly

8. SPI generally 7-9

9. Sewing Shirts, Jackets, Suits, Over-coats, Bed covers, Curtains, Children's clothes, Bags, Leather, Wool,
Chemical fiber and Canvas.

Technical Specifications of Lock Stitch Machine

1. Basic Machine Practice (Loop Exercise)

2. Technical Specification

3. Installation of needle

4. Needle bar Height adjustment

6. Feed Dog adjustment and alignment

7. Feed Dog Eccentric cam Adjustment

8. Pressure foot to the Pressure adjustment

Introduction

A sewing machine is used to stitch the fabric and other pliable materials together with threads. Sewing
machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the quantum of manual
sewing done in garment industries. Since its invention, it has greatly improved the efficiency and
productivity of the fabric, garment and needle industries. The different parts of a sewing machine and its
functions help the Operator to know the functioning of a sewing machine. There are different types of
sewing machine used in the manufacturing of garments and other articles, but here in this Unit, we will
study only single needle lock stitch machine. A sewing machine controls the fabric with feeding devices
and forms a perfect stitch to join the fabrics. It has various parts and attachments, each of which have
their own importance and use. There are mainly two categories of sewing machines that is, domestic
sewing machine and industrial sewing machine. A Sewing Machine Operator should have the knowledge
and skills to operate the different types of sewing machine. The Operator should know about the various
operations of the sewing machine, its parts, their functions, its attachments and the terms related to
stitching. Some of the common and important terms are explained in this Unit.

Sewing machine: parts and their functions

The basic parts of a sewing machine are:

1. Spool pin is a metal rod placed on the top of the machine for correct positioning of the reel of
thread.
2. Thread guide takes the thread from the spool pin to the needle through a small hole. It holds the
thread in position from the spool to the needle. It smoothens the thread and protects it from
abrasion
3. Tension disc is a combination of two concave discs placed together with the convex sides facing.
From spool pin, the thread passes through the thread guide, then between the tension discs to
the needle. Tension discs control the delivery of the upper thread from the spool to the needle.
The tension of the thread is adjusted by a spring and nut which decreases or increases the
pressure.
4. Thread take-up lever is a lever fitted to the body of the arm located above the tension disc. It
receives its up and down motion from the front axle. At the outside end of the lever, there is a
small hole through which the thread passes. The take-up lever first loosens the top thread
during the stitch formation, and then removes any slack to set or lock the stitch.
5. Needle bar is a metal rod to hold the needle at one end with the help of a clamp. Its main
function is to give motion to the needle. 6. Presser foot is a detachable device for holding the
material in place on the feed dog while stitching. This device is not used when attachments for
tucks, ruffles or embroidery are used. 7. Presser foot lifter is the lever attached to the presser
bar (located inside the face plate) to control the up and down movement of the presser foot. It
must always be lifted up to take out the material from the machine. 8. Stitch regulator controls
the length of the stitch. 9. Bobbin winder is a device which helps in winding the bobbin (located
inside the slide plate) properly. The thread passes through it tightly or loosely, as desired. 10. Fly
wheel (or balance wheel) is a round wheel located at the upper right of the sewing machine.
This is made to revolve the machine. It controls the motion of the machine manually or
electrically. 11. Slide plate is a rectangular plate, which facilitates the removal of the bobbin case
without lifting the machine top. 12. Needle plate or throat plate is a semi-circular disc with a
hole to allow the needle to pass through it. The fundamental purpose of this plate is to provide a
levelled surface for the material and to prevent the dust from entering the inner parts of the
sewing machine. 13. Feed dog consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate. When the
machine is in motion, the feed moves upwards, thus advancing the material as each stitch is
made. It helps to move the material forward while sewing. 14. Face plate is a cover, which when
removed, gives access to the oiling points on the needle bar, presser bar and take-up lever. 15.
Arm is a horizontal part of the head that houses the drive shafts. 16. Check spring is a small wire
spring behind or at the top of the tension discs. It provides a little amount of tension on the
thread of the needle and acts a shock absorber. 17. Slack thread regulator is a metal hook near
the tension discs. 18. Bobbin case is fixed in the shuttle case placed in the bottom chamber (the
hollow space under the slide plate) of the sewing machine and moves into position to catch the
top thread and form the stitch as the needle is lowered into the bobbin case. The lower tension
of the thread can be adjusted (by loosening or by tightening) by a small screw fixed on the
bobbin case. 19. Clutch or thumb screw is in the center of the fly wheel and it engages and
disengages the stitching mechanism. 20. Rubber ring is a ring on the bobbin winder which comes
in contact with the nut of the balance wheel. This should never be allowed to become oily, as it
will make it slippery and will not be able to make proper contact with the balance wheel. 21.
Bobbin winder tension angle is a device situated near the bobbin winder which helps to wind
the bobbin evenly. 22. Needle clamp is a screw that is tightened to hold the needle in position.
23. Handle driver is attached to the handle attachment of the machine and helps to drive it with
hand. 24. Shuttle holds the bobbin case and moves to form the loop as the machine is operated.
It is fitted below the feed dog or to its left side. 25. Treadle drive is a large wheel located under
the board in the treadle machine. It is connected tothe balance wheel with a leather belt. As it
rotates, the power is transmitted to the balance wheel by the leather belt. 26. Treadle is the
foot rest at the base of the treadle machine which is pressed with the feet to operate the
treadle machine. 27. Pressure regulating screw is the screw above the presser bar, which can be
tightened to increase the pressure on the fabric when stitching with fine/ lightweight fabric and
loosened to accommodate thick fabric.
Sewing machine: attachments and their functions Different machines have separate
attachments for different sewing processes such as hemming, gathering, etc., but they operate
differently on various makes of machines. The details of attachments are mostly given in the
manual provided with the machine. Students may discuss with the teacher and according to the
availability of the sewing machine and attachments, they can practise on it. Some common
sewing attachments are given here.
Sewing machine: attachments and their functions Different machines have separate
attachments for different sewing processes such as hemming, gathering, etc., but they operate
differently on various makes of machines. The details of attachments are mostly given in the
manual provided with the machine. Students may discuss with the teacher and according to the
availability of the sewing machine and attachments, they can practise on it. Some common
sewing attachments are given here. Blind hem foot It is an additional attachment basically used
for edge finishing of various apparels like trousers and skirts, and home furnishing items like
curtains, etc. (Fig.1.16). Braiding foot It allows lot of flexibility while attaching elastic cord, braid
or cord (Fig.1.17). Button fixing foot It can attach two-holed buttons and four-holed buttons to
the material or garment. In this machine, the foot holds the button in place and then attaches
the button to the fabric using zigzag stitch (Fig.1.18). 37 Introduction to Sewing Machine
Buttonhole foot It is used for preparing precise buttonholes or binding the raw edges. These
attachments are complicated to use on straight stitch machines. In such cases, it is advisable to
handsew the buttonholes. On a sewing machine, the buttonhole attachment produces a simple
buttonhole stitch by swinging the needle from side to side. Insert the attachment by removing
the presser foot and putting the buttonhole attachment in its place (Fig.1.19). Circular sewing
attachment It allows the operator to stitch in a circular pattern using straight stitch, zigzag stitch
and any decorative stitches. Circles mostly up to 26 cm in diameter are stitched perfectly using
this popular attachment, which is very essential for craft and decorative work. This is suitable for
most top loading machines (Fig.1.20). Cording foot To attach decorative cords and threads, a
cording foot is attached to the machine. This foot is designed for stitching closed to a raised
edge. It is used for applying cord to the seam (Fig.1.21) Decorative tape foot This attachment is
used to fix trimmings and ribbons on the fabric (Fig.1.22). Gathering foot It is attached to create
gathers on a fabric with high speed and precision to create perfect ruffles. This attachment
gathers the fabric as it is stitched with fullness locked in every stitch (Fig.1.23) Zigzag foot It is
attached to create designs in fabric using zigzag stitches of different widths (Fig.1.24). Fig.1.19:
Buttonhole foot Fig.1.20: Circular sewing attachment Fig.1.21: Cording foot Fig.1.22: Decorative
tape foot Fig.1.23: Gathering foot Sewing Machine Operator – Class IX 38 Hemmer foot It works
on the sleek and small edges of fabrics as it automatically curls using either a straight stitch or
decorative stitch at the hemlines. It works for hems which are too small to do by hand. It is best
suitable for light weight fabrics. Hemmers make hems from three-sixteenths of an inch to seven-
eighths of an inch wide, right on the machine. This attachment means hours saved from hand
turning and basting. The hem is turned by the hemmer, and at the same time the line of
stitching is guided close to the edge of the hem (Fig.1.25). Overcasting foot It delivers an
accurate and consistent overcasting stitch where the thread is locked around the edge of the
fabric and aligned with it to prevent the fabric from ravelling (Fig.1.26). Ruffling foot It easily
makes and attaches ruffles on different types of fabric and finish the fabric edges. This
attachment is capable of taking gathered or pleated frills, and will take and apply frills to
 another section at the same time. It is useful in making children’s clothes and curtains. It is one
of the most important attachments of sewing machine, and reflects a great deal of credit upon
the inventors of these remarkable time-and-money-saving bits of steel. The method of using this
attachment varies with different machines (Fig.1.27). Zipper foot It is the footer used for
attaching mainly zips and snap tape. Zipper foot has a narrow toe foot which gives more
precision and visibility. The foot needs to be adjusted to right or left to stitch both sides of the
zip. This foot also attaches decorative cording and piping. There are two kinds of zip foot
attachment: one with an adjustable foot, the other with a non-adjustable foot (Fig.1.28). Elastic
foot It helps in attaching elastic to the fabric and provides even tension every time to avoid
pulling and tugging on the needle (Fig.1.29). Embroidery foot It is suitable for shirring fabric. Its
design allows the elastic thread to pass easily under the presser foot. On sewing machines, the
elastic is couched onto the fabric. The thread is fed through the presser foot hole and pulled
gently. The more it is pulled, the more the fabric gathers. On a straight stitch machine, the
elastic is wound around the bobbin (Fig.1.30). Overlock foot It is useful for producing a durable
finish on seams which fray easily or are bulky. It is suitable for use on a sewing machine and is
most effective when the fabric is positioned under the presser foot so that the stitches form
slightly over the fabric edge. A metal bar holds the edge in place to make sure that the stitches
are set correctly. Test that you have the correct positioning and stitch width before you start to
sew. Fig. 1.31 shows the attachment of overlock foot. It can be attached to the sewing machine.

Overlock Machines
An overlock sewing machine uses multiple threads to seam a fabric while also covering its raw
edges. This machine can be used for both construction and finishing and can use as many as two
to eight threads – but most techniques require three to four.
These machines are designed to stitch over the edge of fabric pieces to create a neat edge that
will not fray. An overlock sewing machine will typically cut the edges of the fabric as it is fed
through, though some do not have cutters. They run at high speeds and are used industrially for
edging, hemming and seaming a variety of products.
The types of stitches overlock machines produce depend on the number of threads they use, such
as in the following formations:
• One-thread – end-to-end seaming
• Two-thread – edging and seaming
• Three-thread – creating hems, finishing edges etc.
• Four-thread – decorative edging and finishing
• Five-thread – creates a very strong seam
These machines will help give your products a more finished, professional look
Buttonholer

A buttonholer is an attachment for a sewing machine which automates the side-to-side and
forwards-and-backwards motions involved in sewing a buttonhole.
Most modern sewing machines have this function built in, but many older machines do not, and
straight stitch machines cannot sew a zigzag stitch with which buttonholes are constructed. A
buttonholer attachment can create buttonholes from any sewing machine capable of making a lock
stitch. (That is not to say, however, that some industrial buttonhole machines cannot employ a chain
stitch, especially to create the purl when making keyhole buttonholes).
The buttonholer's adaptor attaches to the machine's presser bar, replacing the presser foot. In its
place the buttonholer employs a cloth clamp with teeth on the underside to hold the material firmly
whilst manipulating the cloth side to side and forwards and backwards. Driven by the up and down
stitching motion of the needle bar via the fork arm straddling the needle clamp, it executes the series
of movements to complete a buttonhole by moving the material rather than by moving
the needle position. Buttonholers usually include a metal feed cover plate to cover the
machine's feed dogs, so that they do not interfere with that of the buttonholer, though some
machines allow the feed dogs to be disengaged or 'dropped'.
Singer buttonholers[edit]
The Singer Manufacturing Company, (often abbreviated by Singer as Simanco), contracted several
manufactures to produce buttonholers branded as Singer, in an evolving series of buttonholers that
fit Singer machines. The Peerless Buttonholer for use on Singer VS machines was patented in 1887
and made by The Sackett Mf'g Co [1]. The Lenox ' "Famous" Buttonhole Worker' was patented in
1916 [2][1] (Simanco No. 36935).
Later buttonholer models made for Singer by 'Greist Mfg. Co.' employed templates to create a
variety of different buttonhole sizes and shapes including keyhole buttonholes, as well as straight
buttonholes, and even an eyelet. Produced for Singer from 1948 into the late 1980s, the Greist
template design of buttonholers became Singer's longest running style of buttonholer

White buttonholers[edit]
Greist Mfg Co. produced a buttonholer adapted to fit White Sewing Machine Company models, and
which is internally identical to ones it produced as the Singer 160506 and 160743, or later 489500
and 489510 template-driven buttonholers. Under contract to White, the attachment was branded the
'White Magic Key Buttonhole Worker'.

YS Star buttonholers[edit]
YS Star is a Japanese brand of sewing accessories made by the Yoshikoshi Manufacturing
Company since 1945.[3] The YS-4454 and YS-4455 look very similar to the Famous Buttonhole
Worker 121704 and 36935, which were patented in 1916 [5].[4] Three different models are offered,
two of which have been cloned by Chinese manufacturers. The Japanese Yoshikoshi buttonholer
shows "YS STAR", the star trademark, and "Made in Japan" in various locations.[5]