Instruction Manual

158.1813

Sewconsult.com 2002
Div. Sewing Educational Warehouse
 Section
Page 1

Section I Knowing Your Sewing Machine

Identifying Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2,
2,3
Installing Machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Threading of Top Thread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Winding the Bobbin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Threading the Bobbin Case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Using the Control
Top Tension Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8,
8,9
Bobbin Tension Adjusting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Checking Tensions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Stitch Length Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12, 12,13
Stitch Width Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12, 12,13
Reverse Stitch Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 14,15
Special Stitch Variegator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14, 14,15
Special Stitch Dial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Pressure Regulator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Feed Dog Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Sewing Light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Multi Purpose Needle Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Seam Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Accessories
Needles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Needle, Thread, Fabric Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Presser Feet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Buttonhole Attachment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Design cams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Section II Starting to Sew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Garment Construction Stitches
Straight Stitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..... . . .... . . . 2
Zig Zag Stitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .... . . .... . 3
Chain. Stitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...... . . .... . 4
Stretch Stitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ...... . ..... . 5
Special Finishing Stitches
6 Satin Stitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . ., . . . . .
.
Buttonhole Making . . . . . . . . . . . . ..... . . . ... 7 .
Blind Hemming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
...... . . ... 8 .
Zipper Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . .... . . ... 9.
Mending . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . .10
Darning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . .10
Button Sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . .11
Bar Tacking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . .11
Special Design Stitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Single Needle Designs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Single Needle Basic Designs 14
Reverse Stitch Designs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 5
Reverse Stitch Designs
-Using Special Stitch Variegator . . . . . .16
Using the Double Needle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Section Checking Performance Problems . . . . . . . . . 1
Hints on Sewing on Different Fabrics ... 2

Section IV Caring for the Machine

Cleaning Feed Dogs and Shuttle . . . . . . . . . 1
Oiling Under Arm Cover Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Oiling Underside . . ...... . ...... . . ..... 3
Oiling in Face Cover Plate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Parts List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5,
5,6
21 . Light and Power Switch 28 . Pressure Regulator
22 . Thread Spool Pin Base 29 . Presser Foot Lever
23 . Hand Wheel 30 . Presser Foot Lock
24 . Top Cover Plate 31 . Thread Cutter
25 . Spool Pins 32 . Hinge Hole
26 . Design Cam Cover 33 . Feed Dogs
27 . Bobbin Winder Tension Disc
INSTALLING MACHINE

1 . Loosen the two hinge screws under 5. Plug machine cord into any 110-
holes in the rear edge of the ma- 120 volt wall outlet . Turn on power
chine bed. by pushing light and power switch .
2. Raise hinge pins in the cabinet 6. Spool pins are packed in accessory
cutout . Slip machine head onto box. Screw thread spool pins in
pins . place. Position nylon discs as
3. Tighten hinge screws securely . shown in illustration . Wipe ma-
chine of excess oil used in shipping .
4. Push the plug onto three-prong
connector under the bed plate .
Lower machine head to front
cabinet flap .
 Fig . 2

Fig . 1

Place thread on spool pin as shown When the thread is released, the spring
with thread coming from back of the wire loop will return to position (Fig .
spool . Draw thread through the top 3) with thread in proper place. Release
threading tube . Holding the spool spool of thread and hook thread into
stationary with right hand, pull the end take up lever as shown (Fig . 4) .
of the thread between the tension discs Continue to thread machine exactly as
as shown. Pull the spring wire loop up shown. Needle must always be thread-
and past the top hook until the thread ed in direction as shown in Fig. 5.
can be slipped into hook (See Fig. 2) .
1 . Raise needle to its highest position 6 . Pull thread through slot of case as
by rotating hand wheel toward you . shown .
2 . Remove hand hole cover plate by 7 . Pull thread under tension spring .
lifting up front . 8. Holding latch open, position case
3. To remove bobbin case from shut- into shuttle, and release latch. Case
tle, pull open latch of bobbin case . should lock into place when latch
4. Pull bobbin case straight out of is released .
shuttle. 9. Hold needle thread loosely in left
5. Insert bobbin into bobbin case mak- hand and rotate hand wheel toward
ing sure thread is coming from you one complete turn . Bring bob-
bobbin as shown . bin thread up by pulling upper
thread .
CONTROLS
TOP TENSION CONTROL

Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates
your top thread tension . It consists of discs between which the thread passes .
The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial on the front of
the control . The higher the number, the tighter the tension .

There are many reasons for having to reset your tension. The best tension
for one fabric may not be correct for another . The required tension depends
upon the stiffness of the fabric, thickness of the fabric, numbers of layers of
fabric being sewn, as well as the type of stitch you are making .

It is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before
starting to make a garment . To adjust for the correct stitch, see next page.
OJUSTING TOP TENSIONS

A perfect straight stitch will have

threads locked between the two
layers of fabric with no loops on
top or bottom .

© Upper thread too tight

Decrease Tension
v

© Upper thread too loose

Increase Tension
Bobbin tension requires adjusting less frequently than the upper thread
tension.

If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, it may be necessary to

loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads . Be sure to balance
them as indicated on Page 9.

When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make slight adjustments with
a screwdriver.

Turn Counter Clockwise .

Turn Clockwise .
To check the thread tension balance, be sure to use mercerized thread of the
same size on the top and on the bobbin; and a sharp, correctly sized needle
for the fabric you are sewing . Begin with a full bobbin . Set the stitch length
for about 12 stitches per inch .

Fold a 6" square of fabric in half diagonally, forming a triangle . Make a line of
stitching 1 /2" in from the fold .

a . If seam is puckered - both tensions are too tight .

b. If the bottom thread lays on the fabric - tighten upper thread

tension, and repeat test. See Fig . 3, Page 9 .
c . If the top thread lays on the fabric - loosen upper thread tension,
and repeat test. See Fig . 2, Page 9.

Grasp the stitching and pull with a snap to make the threads break .

a. If both threads break - tensions are balanced .

b. If neither thread breaks - both tensions are too loose.

c. If upper thread breaks - loosen top tension .

d . If lower thread breaks - tighten top tension .

Both threads do not have to break at the same place, but they should break
on the same snap.

It is necessary to reduce the upper thread tension somewhat when zigzag

stitching . The wider the stitch, the less tension that is needed . This is par-
ticularly important when making designs . It is not desirable to have any of
bottom thread visible on the right side of the fabric when making designs .
The stitch length control regulates the length of the stitch you select . THE
HIGHER THE NUMBER - THE SHORTER THE STITCH . Turn only the outer
rim of this control to set the stitch length .

The number on stitch length control indicates stitch number per inch .
The stitch setting you use will be determined by the thickness of the fabric
you are sewing .

A longer stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of
fabric .
The middle range of the control is the 10-12 stitch per inch range which is
the most commonly used .

A basting stitch is made by using the longest possible stitch setting - 6 stitches
per inch .
The red marking - on the control is the setting used for the shortest
stitches such as in Satin Stitching .

This control regulates the width of the stitch you select . THE HIGHER THE
NUMBER -THE WIDER THE STITCH . You may vary your zigzag stitch width
by adjusting this control to the setting you desire .
This control must be on Red "S" in order to do straight stitching .
Turn only the outer rim of this control to set the stitch width .
The center of the control dials the special stitches the machine is capable
of sewing .
0-

0-
It is best to begin and end seams with a few stitches taken in reverse . 1 his
is called back tacking . Back tacking fastens the ends of the seams firmly
and prevents raveling .
When reverse stitching is needed, simply lower the lever and hold there during
sewing . The fabric will immediately start feeding backwards and the seam
will be fastened .

This control determines the feed of the feed dogs . All simple forward stitches
require that this control be set at red dot . These stitches are the straight
stitch, zigzag mending, blind hem and basic decorative designs .

Those stitches requiring an automatic reverse feed of the feed dogs are the
stretch stitches and the reverse decorative designs . Then the Stitch Variegator
must be set on S, M, or L . See next section for specific settings for individual
stitches .
There are certain types of stitches that are used more often than others in
your garment construction . Because of their frequent use, you will soon
realize the convenience offered to you by this control .

All stitches printed in red on the dial must be sewn with the Special Stitch
Variegator set at the Red Dot .

To make the stitches printed in white on this dial, the Special Stitch Variegator
must be set at S .

The red "S" setting illustrated is the one used for most of your stitching .
At this setting you may straight stitch, stretch stitch or make a simple zig zag
stitch . As each stitch is dependent upon the settings of your other controls .
Carefully read the direction in the next section of the book for the various
stitches .
 Section j
Page 16 b

You will find that much of your sewing is in the mending category . For this
reason you have been provided with a stitch for the repair of tears .
It is accomplished with illustrated setting and variegator set at red dot . When
the Variegator'is turned to S, a Smocking Stitch results . For directions see
the next section of this book .

The setting illustrated is used for special edge finishing and special stretch
stitch for sewing elastic such as sportswear, girdles and other garments that
require stretch . See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitches .
The CAM setting on the dial is used whenever you wish to use any of the
20 insert cams to make decorative embroidery patterns .

Blind hems are made by using the setting shown with the Stitch Variegator
on the red dot. When the Variegator is set on the White "S", overcast stretch
~', ;~~ing is made with a forward and reverse action of the machine.
 Page 16 d

This is a stitch that has been used in the garment industry for many years.
It forms a good looking seam as well as overcasts the edges . It is imperative
that this stitch is used for seaming of swimwear, stretch ski pants and other
types of knit sportswear. Variegator must be set on the White "S" .
In addition to the obvious controls of your machine, there are other small
regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine.

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator. This will release the
pressure on the presser foot . (See above) .
To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until a suitable pressure is
obtained .

Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches,
or difficulty in guiding the fabric . If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear
on the fabric, reduce the pressure .

When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure . Increase
pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics.
 The feed dog control is located on the
right front of the machine bedplate .
There are a few times when you want
to control the feeding of the fabric
yourself . When the control is de-
pressed on the right side, the feed dogs
drop and do not move the fabric .
For most of your sewing, the feed dog
control should be in a level position .
Whenever you raise or lower the feed
Fig. 1 dogs, be sure to have the presser foot
in the up position .

The light and power switch shown in

Fig. 2 provides the electric current for
the motor as well as for the light.
In order to operate the machine, this
switch must be on . To turn on the light,
depress the upper side of the switch .
If you are interrupted while sewing
and must leave the machine unattend-
ed, just turn off the switch and the ma-
Fig . 2 chine cannot be started accidentally .

The sewing light is located inside the

face cover plate as shown . To replace
the bulb, turn light off and swing the
face cover plate open . Push up the
bulb slightly and turn bulb clockwise.
Remove bulb from socket . Push in
new bulb and turn counter-clockwise.

Fig. 3
 This multi purpose needle plate pro-
vides a small round hole for straight
Fig . 1 stitching and a wide oval hole for zig
zag and decorative stitching.
Also you will find an extra multi
purpose needle plate in your accessory
box .

1 . Raise needle to its highest position

and raise presser foot .

2. Open hand hole cover plate .

Fig . 2 3. Remove multi purpose needle plate

by placing thumb under edge of
plate and lifting it up and out.

4. Reverse and reposition the needle

plate as shown.

5. Lock it into place by fixing hand

hole cover plate in position .

Fig . 3 CAUTION

DO NOT BEND multi purpose needle

plate when you reverse the plate.

Seam guides are printed on either side

of the needle plate to aid you in guiding
your fabric .

Fig. 4
Use KENMORE needles. The size of
the needle should conform with the
size of the thread and both should be
suitable to the fabric (See next page) .

Never use a bent needle or one with a

blunt point.

Fig. 1 . shows you the exact length of

your needle . Be sure you never use
one in your machine that is not this
exact length .

Raise needle bar to its highest position

by turning the hand wheel toward you.
Loosen the needle clamp screw . Hold-
ing the needle with the flat side away
from you, slip the needle into the
needle bar. When it is in as far as it
will go, tighten the needle clamp screw
with a screwdriver .

If you have a double needle for decora-

tive stitching, it is inserted in the same
manner as the single needle .
 NEEDLE
THREAD SIZE FABRIC
SIZE

Cotton 80-100 Chiffon, Fine Silks, Nylon Tricot,

Synthetic
Power net.
Silk A

Cotton 80-100 Batiste, Dimity, Organdy, Light weight

Synthetic 11 Velvet and Taffeta, Fine Lace, Light
Silk A weight Knits, Satin.
i
Cotton, Cotton Blends, Poplin, Percale,
Cotton 60-80
Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker,
Synthetic 14
Velveteen, Double Kr-fits, Light weight
Mercerized 50-60
Wool, Linen, Leather, Fake Furs, Vinyls .
I

Cotton 40-60 Heavy Cotton such as Corduroy,

Mercerized 50 16 Denim, Decorator Fabrics, Wool,
Mercerized Heavy Duty Coating and Suiting .

Cotton
otton 3 - 50
18 Heavy Twills, Denims, Coatings .
Me rcerized H eavy Duty
 To replace any of the feet with ease,
simply drop the presser foot lock and
slip the foot away from the presser bar.
To aid you in the placement of the
presser foot, the presser foot lever can
raise the foot beyond the normal "up"
position . After the foot is placed on the
presser bar, lift the lock as high as it
will go to hold the foot securely .

You have been given a variety of presser feet :

A. Metal Zigzag Foot

B. Metal Satin Stitch Foot for decorative stitching
C. Clear Plastic Satin Stitch Foot
D. Straight Stitch Foot
E. Sears Stretch Stitch Foot
F. Plastic Zipper Foot
You will find the following parts in
your Buttonhole Attachment Box:

1 . Cover Plate with pinion gear in the

center .

2. Guide Plate with Guide Pin that

fits in guide pin hole on the machine
bed just behind the needle plate,
and with Template Holder .

3 . A set of 2 Templates is furnished

with buttonhole guide plate. Each
template is marked with the types
and lengths of buttonhole on its
top. Measurements are expressed
in inches and in millimeters .

4 . Desired size of buttonhole is select-

ed by turning template advance
knob . Length of buttonhole appears
in window on top side of guide
plate.

Details in using this attachment are

given in the next section. Follow
those directions carefully for perfectly
formed buttonholes .
This machine enables you to sew beautiful decorative embroidery patterns
by the use of the many cams supplied with your machine . All the designs
may be varied by using the double needle and two different colors of
thread as well as by changing the width of the zigzag stitch . Some of the
designs can be changed by using the Special Stitch Variegator as well .

Please read the Special Design Stitching pages in the next section of the
book . You will be told how to insert the cams and the machine settings to
use to make the illustrated designs .

You will find many uses for the designs in combination with appliques, bias
tapes, laces and other decorative trimmings . It is possible to combine several
designs to give an interesting effect .
 Section j[
Page 1

Starting to Sew

Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the
accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your
new Kenmore sewing machine . Below are some good habits to follow each
time you sit down to sew :

1 . Test the needle - it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point .
It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used . Do not
be afraid to change your needle frequently . Many of the new fabrics
made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than
fabrics made of natural fibers .

2 . Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use . The fabric
should be double thickness . Adjust the machine for the length of stitch
and tension suitable to your fabric .

3 . Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the
material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed
on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple
seam .

4 . Run the machine at slow even speed . The more pressure you put on the
foot control, the faster the machine will sew .

5 . Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam .

6 . Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point .

7 . Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle . Never
pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered .

8 . When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you .
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION STITCHES

Set your machine just as shown in the

illustration in order to straight stitch .
It is important that each dial has the
following settings .

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - WPMO= =

Stitch Length Control - 12 to 6
Stitch Width Control - Red "S
Special Stitch Variegator - Red Dot
Use straight stitch foot and straight stitch
hole on multi purpose needle plate .

You will find in garment construction that you are doing two types of
sewing - temporary and permanent .

1 . Temporary stitching - Usually the longest stitch possible and often done
on a single layer of fabric . The various types of temporary stitching are :
Basting
Stay stitching
Guide line marking

2 . Permanent stitching - This is the actual stitching that holds the garment
together . Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment
and therefore must be good looking .

You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics, multiple
layers of fabric and thicker seams . Some of these seams are :
Common two layer seams
Curved two layer seams
Top stitched three layer seams
Top stitched four layer seams
 Section II
Page 2 b

r- r"7- :

The best length straight stitch to use

for medium weight fabrics is 10 to 12
stitches per inch .
To control stitch length, just turn your
control dial as shown.

When you have two seams crossing

each other with considerable thick-
ness, sew slowly and carefully so seam
will be strong as possible . It may be
necessary to lengthen your stitch
slightly and reduce the pressure on
the presser foot if you are sewing very
thick fabrics.

Be sure both threads are drawn back

under the presser foot . Lower needle
into fabric about 1 /2 inch from begin-
ning of seam . Depress lever and stitch
in reverse until needle reaches begin-
ning of seam .
Release lever and complete seam .
When you reach the end, depress lever
and sew back over 1/2 inch of com-
pleted seam .
 STITCHING

This type of stitching greatly expands

the use of your machine. This is the
feature that enables you to overcast
seams, blind hem, applique, button-
hole, monogram, and make all the
pretty embroidery designs by machine.
Simply use the settings indicated in
the illustration for the simple zigzag .
Follow directions given in the follow-
ing pages for more specific uses .

Special Stitch Dial - NMMO===

Stitch Length Control - Any number
Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4
Special Stitch Variegator - Red Dot
Use zig zag presser foot and zig zag hole on
multi purpose needle plate.

ZIGZAG WIDTH CONTROL

In order to get Simple Zig Zag Stitches, just turn outer rim. The higher the
number, the wider the stitch as illustrated above .
 Page 4 a

Your machine will make a special

temporary type stitch -a chain stitch .
The chain stitch is made by the upper
thread only . The appearance of the
stitch from the top of fabric is almost
the same as regular straight stitch . Just
pull on the thread end, you can remove
thread easily .

~peciai atitch JVr,"-

;titch Length Control - around 10
stitch Width Control - Red "S"
-special Stitch Variegator - Red Dot
Jse straight stitch foot, chain stitch adapter
chain stitch needle plate.

DUSTING MACHINE FOR

1 . Be sure the needle is at its highest

position by turning handwheel .

2. Remove hand hole cover plate.

3 . Remove multi purpose needle plate,

bobbin and bobbin case from
shuttle.

4 . Insert chain stitch adapter onto the

shuttle center pin. Be sure the
adapter clicks into place when you
fit it onto shuttle .

5. Place the black chain stitch plate

onto the needle plate and replace
hand hole cover plate.
 Before you sew with chain stitch on
your fabric, test on a scrap of fabric
you plan to use. Upper thread tension
should be slightly tighter than for
regular straight stitching . Follow next
procedure for starting to sew.
Fig . 1 1 . Needle bar is at its highest position .
2. Place your fabric under presser foot .
3. Hold the end of the thread by left
hand . Turn hand wheel forward
until the needle just pierces the
fabric . (Fig . 1)
4. Lower the presser foot .
5. Continue to turn hand wheel by
Fig . 2 right hand until a few stitches have
been made .
6. Start the machine and stitch to end
of seam, and stop the machine. Do
not sew beyond the end of fabric .

1 . Hold end of stitch with left hand,

Fig . 3 and turn hand wheel away from you
until the take up lever is at its
highest position . At this point the
last stitch is released by the adapter.
2 . Remove your fabric gently with
fingers holding end of stitching .
(Fig . 2)
3. Holding the last stitch and material
between your thumb and finger,
Fig . 4 cut the thread and pull thread to
lock the last stitch to fasten thread
end. See illustration . (Fig . 3)

1 . To remove the stitching quickly,

the thread from last stitch must be
on top . Simply pull the thread and
all the stitching unravels . (Fig . 4,
Fig . 5)
The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics. These
are special stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection.

1. Straight Stretch
2. Rick-Rack Stretch
3. Smocking Stretch
4. Elastic Stretch
5. Overcast Stretch
6. Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch

For optimum sewing of stretch fabrics the special stretch stitch foot with
gold colored shank should be used .

b I KAIGI'1 I
STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - WftFS1 ===

Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10
Stitch Width Control - Red "S"
Special Stitch Variegator - White ' S"
Use straight stitch presser foot and straight
stitch hole on multi purpose needle plate.

This stitch enables you to press open

your seams as with any straight stitch-
ed seam . The seam will stretch with
fabric without breaking the thread .

This is also a good stitch to use on

curved seams that will receive a great
deal of strain when worn, such as in
children's shirts and slacks as well
as adult sport clothes.
RICK-RACK STRETCH
STITCHING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - NMM[V--==

Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10
Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4
Special Stitch Variegator - White "S"
Use stretch stitch foot and zig zag hole on
multi purpose needle plate.

SMOCKING STRETCH

Step 1 . Make a straight line of gathers across

the fabric that you wish to smock.
Step 2. Settings
Special Stitch Dial - ':'::'.BAs
Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10
Stitch Width Control - 3 to 4
Special Stitch Variegator-White "S"
Use stretch stitch foot and zig zag hole on

With a narrow strip of fabric directly

under the line of gathering, stitch over
the gathers. The design will be a series
of small diamonds . Make the design
more interesting by using two different
colors of thread and the double needle .

When smocking a garment, the stitch-

ing should be done before the piece is
sewn into the garment.
 ;ERGING OR PINE LEAF
YRETCH STITCHING

NGS

al Stitch Dial - AWM

h Length Control - 12 to 10
,itch Width Control - 4
al Stitch Variegator - White "S"
fnr,t and 7in Inn hnIp nn

The serging or pine leaf stretch stitch is

equally useful with woven and knitted
fabrics . This stitch can be used in
making elastic swimwear, as well
as overcasting a neat edge on the
seams.

'INGS

al Stitch Dial - WM
n Length Control - 12 to 10
h Width Control - 4
vial Stitch Variegator - White "S"

This is a good stitch to use in making or

repairing lingerie . The stitch is decora-
tive as well as useful . Simply stitch
the elastic into place around the waist
of the garment, making sure that the
elastic is evenly spaced . To do this
mark the correct length piece into
awovooovyy00\v~~~0\~~~\\\\\\\\\\\\\~~~~~~ quarters and match these markings
with center front and back of the gar-
ment as well as side seams.
 OVERCAST STRETCH
STITCHING

SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - WAGOG
Other settings are exactly same as Pine

This is the same type of stitch used by

the garment industry in making sports-
wear . It is used for seams of 3/8" to
1/4" . The seam is formed and finished
in one operation . It must be used when
you are making swimwear, ski pants
and other garments that require stretch.

Fig . 1 shows the raw edge finished .

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric

just short of the outside edge .

Raw or worn edges of older garments

can be overcast to prevent further
raveling .

Fig . 1
SPECIAL FINISHING STITCHES
SATIN STITCHING

SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - VWM ©===
Stitch Length Control - Red Zone
Stitch Width Control - Any Number 1 to 4
Special Stitch Variegator - Red Dot
Use satin stitch foot and zig zag hole on
multi purpose needle plate .

Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches . This is an attractive
stitch used for appliqueing, monogramming, buttonhole making . It is also
the stitch that is used with the many decorative pattern cams for embroidery
design work .
Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the
tension of the top thread slightly . The wider the stitch you make, the looser
the tension should be .
If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue
paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch . Puckering of the material will
be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of
the fabric .
As with all special stitches, it is best to make a sample design on your fabric
before starting the design on the garment.

APPLIQUEING

SETTINGS
ame as with Satin Stitchina

Select an applique design to be applied

to your garment and baste it in place .
Satin stitch around the raw edge of
the applique completely covering the
edge . You may want to do this with
a contrasting color of thread or self
color. By using one of the decorative
cams, you may sew around the appli-
que giving it an interesting appearance .
BUTTONHOLE MAKING
SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - WPMpSI--==

Stitch Width Control - 1 to 1
Feed Dogs - Down
Use satin stitch foot and zig zag hole on
multi purpose needle plate.

1 . Raise needle to its highest point

and raise presser foot . Remove
regular cover plate and replace with
buttonhole cover plate.
2. Screw guide pin into the guide pin
hole on the machine bed directly
behind the needle plate.
3. Insert a template into the slot of
template holder by lifting the
bottom portion of the Template
Holder . Select the proper size
buttonhole by turning the Template
Advance Knob .
4. Pull guide plate all the way forward
so that guide pin is at S. This will
enable you to start at one end of
the buttonhole . Drop guide plate
into place over gear on cover plate .
5. Pick up bobbin thread through
guide plate by turning hand wheel
and drawing thread to back . Place
fabric between presser foot and
guide plate. Lower presser foot
and start sewing .

Always make a practice buttonhole

using the fabric in your garment. Try
the buttonhole with the button you
will use.

Use an interfacing between the layers

of fabric - tissue paper can be used
and torn away after the stitching.

For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your

top tension slightly and use a wider
stitch width setting.
 BLIND HEMMING

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - W WW

Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10
Stitch Width Control - 2 to 3
Special Stitch Variegator - Red Dot
Fig. 1 Use zig zag foot or edgestitcher and zig zag
hole on MUlti purpose needle plate .

After you have turned up the hem

width desired, turn raw edge over
1 /2" and stitch this fold with a basting
stitch . (Fig . 1) . Press.

Fig . 2

Fold hem back against right side of

garment with basted raw edge extend-
ing about 1 /8" to right of garment
fold . (Fig . 2)

Place garment under presser foot so

Fig . 3 that straight stitches will follow basting
or raw edge, and the blind (zigzag)
stitch just catches the fold of the hem .
(Fig . 3)
Or
If you have an edgestitcher, place the
fold of the hem in the two left slots of
the attachment for ease in guiding your
sewing . (Fig . 4)

Fig. 4

Remove basting and press hem. Right

side of garment will show only the
blind stitches as in Fig. 5.

Fig. 5
Section II
Page 9

ZIPPER APPLICATION

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - COs===

Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10
Stitch Width Control - Red "S"
Special Stitch Variegator - Red Dot
Use zipper foot and straight stitch hole on
multi purpose needle plate.

REGULAR ZIPPER

The foot is adjustable for use on the

right or left side of the needle when
sewing the regular type of zipper .
Adjust the foot so the needle clears
the side notch on the foot . See Fig . 1 .
Carefully follow directions given on
the zipper package.

;V L!- Z1 PPE

Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing

through the center hole of the foot and
one groove of the foot is riding on the
teeth of the zipper .
See Fig. 2 . Follow the zipper manu-
facturer's instructions .

After zipper has been inserted, finish

Fig . 2 sewing seam by shifting foot to side
position sewing through side notch.

Di V :

Foot can also be used to make cording

for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with
a strip of bias fabric and sew as shown
in Fig . 3 .

Fig . 3
 MENDING

SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - ""'"
Stitch Length Control - Red Zone
Stitch Width Control - 4
Special Stitch Variegator - Red Dot
Use zig zag foot and zig zag hole on multi
purpose needle plate .

To repair a straight or three-cornered

tear, position the tear under the needle
in such a way that the stitching catches
both sides of the tear . When mending
a three-cornered tear, stitch from each
end to the center . It is well to use a
piece of fabric under the tear for re-
inforcement .

ZNING

ETTINGS
pecial Stitch Dial - NMMOs°==
titch Width Control - "S"
pecial Stitch Variegator - Red Dot

Remove presser foot, stretch fabric be-

tween embroidery hoops with hole
centered . Draw the bobbin thread up
through the fabric by holding the top
thread and taking one stitch at the spot
where you wish to start darning .
Lowering the presser bar, start sewing
at a slow medium speed . Move the
fabric back and forth with a steady
rhythm to cover the darning area .
When it is covered, turn the fabric and
sew another layer of stitching across
the first layer of stitching .
 BUTTON SEWING

SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - VWMI]s===
Feed Dogs - Down
Use zig zag presser foot and zig zag hole on
-lti ni,-n -Al . n i .rn

1 . Align two holes of button with slot

of presser foot and lower foot to
hold the button securely .
2. Turn hand wheel manually until
needle point is just above button .
3. Adjust stitch width control so
needle will enter left hole of the
button .
4 . Turn hand wheel again by hand so
needle enters second hole . Re-
adjust stitch width if necessary.
Stitch a number of times.
5. Finish sewing with an extra two
inches of thread remaining. Draw
these threads to reverse side of
garment and tie .

BAR TACKING

SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - WNMIS1-
e
I Stitch Width Control - 2 to 4
E
I Stitch Length Control - Red Zone
1 I
l r Use ziq zag presser font and zig zag hale nr
I
I I
I 1
I I
l This stitch is similar to a very short
I
satin stitch and is used to reinforce
I
I I

points of strain such as corners of

I 1

pockets and straps on lingerie .

I I
I 1
I
I I
-------------
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches .
- SPECIAL DESIGN STITCHING
This model sewing machine enables you to sew a variety of decorative
embroidery stitches just by the insertion of the different cams supplied with
your machine .

First you will want to know how to insert the cams :

1 . Turn handwheel so needle is at its

highest position .

2. Lift cam shaft cover open .

3 . Grasp cam and slip cam onto the

shaft as you push lever A to the
right.

Make sure the retaining pin C

enters the hole in the cam and the
cam is seated as far down as it
will go .

To start a pattern at its beginning,

align the engraved dot on the cam
with the follower B . To do this
slip the cam onto the shaft so the
engraved dot is as near the cam fol-
lower as possible . If the dot is not
aligned with the follower, turn the
hand wheel toward you until the
dot is aligned. (If the machine is
threaded, be sure to place a scrap
of fabric under the presser foot) .

4. To remove the pattern cam, follow

steps 1 and 2, grasp the cam and
pull from the shaft while holding
lever A to the right.
SINGLE NEEDLE DESIGNS

SETTINGS
Special Stitch Dial - CAM
Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4
Stitch Length Control - ~ Red Zone
Special Stitch Variegator - Red Dot
Use satin stitch foot and ziq zag hn!^ c,

All the designs can be varied by adjusting the stitch width or by using a double
needle . See the illustrations for interesting and attractive uses of the designs .
You will soon be combining designs and creating new uses when you be-
come familiar with your machine .

Fig . 1 Design on a collar Fig . 4 Combination of designs

`+r rr r~fr~+rYY V r~
" "r V"~`"^VfIr~Y'r1'~wN~r~lW"~~"
.rr

Fig . 2 Design on bias tape Fig . 5 Fig . 6

Desic;n e,, ;. .. Van-, 3n ~ `
hem

"^'~`^r~ .v^~~ u~rrrrv ~`~rr~^J ~"mvJ

Fig . 3 Variation of widths of designs

"'rY1~yN~'»eM"5nr~.'~+vr~44yA'~w^w~~l~mh'^"»'~5'~~yr,MM'^+vy~jlr fI

+nN.1". 7Mw+N n . ~ nflm+.N1r4 upNd+.+'Vr~rrl u,y~''f°^^.'' .' .rIr ~. rr . .

., 7.S; ~ ry~y~fd
r r ~"r'rYrrwnSY~~ ;",h'r+^~M'rr +~,r,~rfN'"^w'9,~r4'~"~^+MVr~'~+'
r
 Page 14

BASIC DECORATIVE DESIGNS

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - CAM Special Stitch Variegator - Red Dot

Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Use satin stitch foot and zig zag hole on
Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4 multi purpose needle plate.
 Section II
Page 15

REVERSE STITCH DESIGNS

SETTINGS

Special Stitch Dial - CAM Special Stitch Variegator - White M

Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4 Use satin stitch foot and zig zag hole on
ri'i iJ .it,

In addition to the basic designs on the previous page, you can sew the
interesting reverse stitch designs shown below . Page 14 and the next page
show the variations of the same designs .

22 23 24 25 26 27 28 30 36 43
REVERSE STITCH DESIGNS-USING VARIEGATOR
rONTOrl

To shorten or lengthen the design as shown in the illustrations below, turn

the Variegator Control very. slightly from the M position . To shorten the
design, turn the control toward S, to lengthen the design turn control toward
L.

Fig . 1 Shortened design

Fig . 2 M Setting - Standard size of design

`~L~l~LSL~I~LS
Fig . 3 Lengthened design

Basic and Reverse Patterns as made with the Double Needle .

Using the double needle and two colors of thread you may create unusual
and different designs with both the basic design cams and the reverse stitch
cams . See next page for directions for stitching with the double needle .

Basic type design

Reverse stitch type design

 Section ](
Page 1 7 a

USING THE DOUBLE NEEDLE

All patterns can be made with the double needle with very striking effects .
The machine is set exactly the same as when using the single needle with
one important exception. The Stitch Width Control must never be set
beyond 3 . The double needle will be broken if a wider stitch is used .

PLACEMENT OF NEEDLE
Raise the needle bar to its highest
position and loosen the needle screw.
Hold the double needle with the flat
side away from you . Slip the needle
into the needle bar as far as it will go .
Tighten the screw.

db

THREADING THE DOUBLE

NEEDLE

Place a spool of thread on each spool

pin. Draw both threads through the
upper thread tube . Pass a thread
between each set of tension discs of
the thread tension assembly . Con-
tinue threading as you do for single
needle sewing except where double
thread guides are provided . Draw
one thread through each side of the
double thread guides and through each
needle from front to back . Turn hand
wheel manually once to be sure needle
will clear the presser foot . Pick up
bobbin thread as for single needle
sewing . Pull threads to back of foot
and start to sew .
DOUBLE NEEDLE STITCHING
You may find that you would like to
use the double needle for straight
stitching as well as for designs . Make
decorative top stitching around the
collars and other edges with your
machine set for straight stitching .
Whenever you use the double needle
even for straight stitching, be sure to
use a zigzag presser foot and needle
plate slot .

TURNING A CORNER WITH

DOUBLE NEEDLE

To turn a square corner with a double

needle, stop stitching with the longer
needle tip just piercing the fabric .
Raise the presser foot, shift fabric half
the turn, lower presser foot and take
one stitch .

Raise the presser foot again, complete

the turn, and begin stitching in the
new direction .

THINGS TO REMEMBER WHEN DESIGN STITCHING

1 . Always make a practice design on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use .

2 . Start with a full bobbin and plenty of thread on the spool to avoid running out
of thread in the middle of your design .

3 . Reduce the top thread tension slightly.

4 . On a very soft fabric you may want to use a tissue paper backing or organdy that
can be cut away .

5 . Use the clear plastic satin stitch foot in order to see the design you are making .
Checking Performance Problems WHAT To Do

PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION

Incorrect size needle . Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric .
Improper threading. Rethread machine.
Loose upper thread tension. Tighten upper thread tension.
Irregular
Pulling fabric . Do not pull fabric; guide it gently .
Stitches
Light pressure on presser foot . Increase pressure on presser foot.
Loose presser foot . Reset presser foot .
Unevenly wound bobbin . Rewind bobbin .

Pulling fabric . Do not pull fabric ; guide it gently .

Breaking Incorrect size needle . Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric .
Needle Incorrect setting of needle . Reset needle .
Loose presser foot . Reset presser foot .

Upper and lower threads not drawn Draw both threads back under presser foot .
Bunching of back under presser foot .
Thread
Feed dog down . Raise feed dog.

Incorrect thread tension(s) . Reset thread tension(s) .

Light pressure on presser foot . Increase pressure on presser foot .
Using two different sizes or kinds Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind .
Puckering of thread .
Bent or blunt needle . Insert new needle .
Loose presser foot . Reset presser foot .
Fabric too sheer or too soft . Use underlay of tissue paper .
 PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION

Incorrect size needle . Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric .
Bent or blunt needle . Insert new needle .
Skipping
Incorrect setting of needle . Reset needle.
Stitches
Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tension.
Light pressure on presser foot . Increase pressure on presser foot .

Starting to stitch too fast . Start to stitch at a medium speed.

Improper threading. Rethread machine.
Breaking Upper
Thread Tight upper thread tension. Loosen upper thread tension
Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric .
Sharp eye in needle . Insert new needle .

Improper bobbin case threading . Check bobbin case threading.

Breaking Bobbin
Tight bobbin thread tension. Loosen bobbin thread tension.
Thread
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle . Clean bobbin case and shuttle .

Feed dog down . Raise feed dog.

Fabric not Light pressure on presser foot. Increase pressure on presser foot .
Moving
Thread knotted under
er fabric . Place both threads back under presser foot before
beginning to stitch .

Machine Jamming
Thread caught in shuttle . Disassemble and clean shuttle .
Knocking Noise
Hints on sewing on Different Fabrics

Fabric Special Stitches to Use Special Notions to Use

Serging Stitch Sharp new needle, Size 9 or 11

Overcast Stretch Polyester, nylon or dacron core thread
Nylon Tricot Elastic Stretch (for sewing on elastic) Sears Stretch Stitch Foot
Feather stitch
Blind Hem

Special Overcast Stitch Mercerized Thread

Terry Cloth (Use same settings as for Serging Size 14 Needle
Regular Corduroy Stitch except Stitch Variegator should
be set on Red dot)

Terry Cloth Serging Stitch Mercerized Thread

Stretch Overcast Stretch Size 14 Needle

Straight or simple zig zag Mercerized or Silk Thread

Leather Size 14 Needle
1/2 Pressure on presser foot
 Fabric Special Stitches to Use Special Notions to Use

Serging Stretch Polyester, nylon or dacron core thread

Stretch knits for Overcast Stretch Sharp new needle Size 9 or 11
Swimwear and Elastic Stretch Sears Stretch Stitch Foot
Ski Wear or Mending Stitch Lace Seam tape
Girdles
Feather Stitch Pre-shrunk zippers
Scallop Stitch

New fabrics are coming on the market all the time . Remember that soft
fabrics may need to be stabilized a little . This is especially true when
buttonholing, monogramming, or design sewing as the stitches are so close
together . A backing of tissue paper or interfacing may assist you in your
sewing . The paper may be torn away and the interfacing cut away after
sewing . Check your fabric by making samples of the designs, monograms,
or buttonholes on a scrap of fabric before sewing on your garment .
 - ., .

Caring for the Machine

CLEANING AND OILING

Fig . 1 Cleaning the feed dogs with a

brush .

To insure the best possible operation

of your machine, it is necessary to
keep the essential parts clean at all
times . Using a small brush, remove
the lint that accumulates in the shuttle
area and around the feed dogs .

Fig . 2 Parts of the Shuttle Assembly

To Clean the Shuttle Area :

1 . This area must be kept free of dust,
lever lever lint and occasional tangled thread .
Raise the needle bar to its highest
point and remove the bobbin case .
Shuttle Assembly
2 . Push levers of shuttle race aside
and lift shuttle race cover and shut-
tle out .

3 . Clean the shuttle race with small

brush .

4 . Put a drop of oil on the center pin

of the shuttle and shuttle race .
Shuttle Race Cover (see arrows)

5 . To reassemble, hold shuttle by

center pin and fit carefully into as-
sembly opposite the shuttle driver .
Slip shuttle race cover into place .
Snap the levers into position .

Shuttle

Shuttle Race

Fig . 2
 Section 1V
Page 2

klf% 1rwrnro AO "A rnvrn or nrr

Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head .
To remove cover plate, insert a screw driver into the spacing between arm
casting and top cover plate and lift the cover plate as illustrated below.
 Section IV
Page 3

OILING UNDERSIDE
Tilt machine head back to oil points indicated on underside of machine .

OILING IN FACE COVER PLATE

Swing hinged face cover plate

open and oil points indicated
in illustration .
M E M O
PARTS LIST

7 8 9

13 14 15 16 17 18

19 20 21 22 23 24
 Section IV
Page 6

All parts listed here may be ordered through your nearest Sears or Simpsons -
Sears retail store, catalog sales office or mail order house .
When ordering these parts, please be sure to mention the following references :
1 . Model & serial numbers of machine shown on the nomenclature
plate . See page 2 .
2 . Parts number(s) and description(s) here .
When ordering by mail, prices will be furnished on request, or parts will be
shipped at prevailing prices and you will be billed accordingly .

REF . # PART#i DESCRIPTIONS REF . # PART # DESCRIPTIONS

1 28775 Shuttle 22 6864 Needle threader

2 30123 Multi purpose needle plate 23 6861 Buttonhole opener
3 6510 Bobbin case 24 35107 Buttonhole cover plate
4 6797 Light bulb 25 35281 Buttonhole guide plate
5 6740 #9 single needles 26 35346 Buttonhole template (#1 )
, 6741 #11 single needles 35347 Buttonhole template (#2)
^'6742 #14 single needles 27 ^6862 Bobbin box with 10 bobbins
"6743 #16 single needles 28 `6889 Oil and lint brush
"6744 #18 single needles 29 3015 Large screw driver
`6745 Double needles 3016 Small screw driver
6 8286 Thread spool pin
7 2273 Nylon disc
8 1939 Bobbin winder rubber ring *These items are not furnished with the
machine, but may be ordered per
9 28908 Large motor belt
instructions above .
30083 Small motor belt
10 1222 Bobbin winder tension disc
11 35040 Standard zigzag foot
12 35089 Satin stitch foot
13 35091 Plastic satin stitch foot
14 35092 Straight stitch foot
15 6784 Sears stretch stitch foot
16 6759 Zipper foot
17 28776 Chain stitch adapter
18 30098 Chain stitch needle plate
19 26844 Pattern disc #4
26845 Pattern disc #5
26847 Pattern disc #7
26848 Pattern disc #8
26849 Pattern disc #9
26850 Pattern disc #10
26851 Pattern disc #11
26852 Pattern disc #12
26858 Pattern disc #18
26859 Pattern disc #19
26862 Pattern disc #22
26863 Pattern disc #23
26864 Pattern disc #24
26866 Pattern disc #25
26867 Pattern disc #26
26868 Pattern disc #27
26869 Pattern disc #28
28772 Pattern disc #30
28766 Pattern disc #36
28769 Pattern disc #43
20 9308 Adjustable holder
21 29306 Edgestitcher