SUNBEAM S7 and S8 Tech Info

STEWART ENGINEERING
THE SUNBEAM SPECIALISTS
Data Sheet No. 2A

Subject: Wiring Harness
Date: June 1992
There are 2 sheets to this subject
A few notes on rewiring a Sunbeam:
Section A
This is all inside the headlamp shell and enters via the
large lipped hole underneath the shell ... not by the
large hole just below the speedo which does in fact take
the speedo trip arm. Just below this hole is a smaller one
which takes the speedo cable. Just above the harness
hole is another smaller one which takes the dipswitch
wiring Section H. It is important not to confuse these
holes otherwise you will find the speedo cable appears
too short! Note the white wire with a double connector on
it ... this takes one wire from each of the warning lights
(not included in the harness). Grommets should be used
on all holes except the main harness hole in the
headlamp, which is lipped already. Never run any wire
through a bare metal hole!
Section B
The harness lies alongside the steering head on the LEFTHAND side (the speedo cable goes to the right) and
goes on top of the front tank bracket. The horn wire goes up to the handlebar, and the dynamo wires go down
to the dynamo where they fit into the dynamo terminal block by means of a kidney-shaped holding piece and
two SPECIAL ends (this is important for a good connection).
The harness from section B to C lies along the frame top tube, underneath it ... and either clipped to it with the
original clips, or just taped to it, with two sponge-rubber pads to absorb any tank rattles. It loops OVER the
rear top mounting assembly, and the two wires run down to the oil switch and distributor. The rest of the
harness enters the control box through the large SECOND HOLE DOWN on the front face of the control box.
The top hole is for the speedo cable. All have rubber grommets.
Section D
The battery wire goes through a small hole (with grommet) in the top righthand corner inside the box into the
adjoining battery box. The wires to the CVC unit (or the 12 volt unit if fitted instead) require special care. Note
the earth tag MUST only be bolted to the FRONT bolt as this is the only one directly earthed to the frame.
Where all four wires go into the back of the CVC they have special ends for a good connection. When bolting
the CVC into the control box, make sure that none of the wires get trapped behind it as this will cause no
charge!
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Section E
The ignition switch wiring is straight forward. The ammeter has no indication as to which is + or -. All that is
required is to make sure that it reads on the plus side when charging and on the minus side when discharging
... which is actually putting the purple/white wire to the left-hand side of the ammeter.
Section F
Section F leaves the control box through a small hole (with grommet) in the bottom of the box, next to the
larger hole through which the speedo cable exits. From here it loops over a special lug welded to the rear side
of the battery box (which holds it clear of the clutch arm!), and thence down td the horn, and stoplight switch.
The stoplight switch is generally bolted to the horn bracket with the spring hooked to the eye of the rear brake
rod pivot pin.
Section G
The offside or right-hand side beading along the edge of the rear mudguard is not squeezed tight but
deliberately left open along its length to allow the taillight wires to be pushed into the channel so formed. Once
pushed in the edge is crimped at the dimpled spots to hold it. This channel may not be deep enough to hold
the stoplight wires as well, so tape it to the taillight wires at intervals only, in between these crimps. Snap
connectors join the two wires to the bulb holder in the taillight, and the other two ends come out at the front
end of the mudguard through a small hole (with grommet) just above the pivot bar, and enter the control box
by a similar hole adjacent in the top of the control box. Inside the control box, the taillight wire connects to the
ignition switch and the stoplight wire to the
connector on section F.
Section H
One end of this enters the headlamp as explained in section A and connects, with SPECIAL ENDS to the
main and dip sides of the headlamp bulb holder. The third connection goes to the blue/white wire. The other
end of this section enters the dipswitch on the handlebars.
Section I
The CVC earth has already been mentioned, the battery MUST be earthed likewise to the front bolt holding
the battery box to the frame.
Note:
The bulbholder in the headlamp is also earthed to the inside of the headlamp shell (not included in the
harness).
See diagrams on Data Sheet 2 B
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
B.S.A. CYCLES LIMITED
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Data Sheet No. 2B

Subject: Wiring Harness
Date: June 1992

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SERVICE DEPARTMENT
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Data Sheet No. 3

Subject: Adjustment of Engine Damper and Snubber Assemblies
Date: May 1955
Having replaced the unit in the frame and bolted up the two main pre-set rubber mountings (A and B, Figure
2) refit the tongue (A, Figure 1) to the frame clip bracket, locking up the lower retaining bolt B with its nut.
Do not tighten the upper bolt at this stage.
Then loosely refit the four reinforcement plates on either side of the damper plate D with the two nuts and
bolts E, noting that the bevelled edges must be away from the damper plate, as illustrated.
Now insert the friction disc F in position and move the damper plate together with the frame clip bracket
forwards until the friction disc is lightly held between the damper plate and the snubber plate G.
Replace the bolt H and the distance piece J and position the damper plate D so that the distance piece is
located centrally in the hole in the damper plate.
Note that the holes in the damper plate are elongated to allow for adjustment (see adjustment of engine
damper snubbers below). Refit the washer and spring K, cap L, and nut M, tightening the latter until the cap is
locked against the distance piece J.
Adjustment of Engine Damper Snubbers

It is essential that the damper fittings be correctly adjusted when the unit is refitted to the frame. Furthermore
if maximum efficiency is to be maintained, the damper clearances must be checked by means of a feeler
gauge, and if necessary adjusted every 1,000 miles.
Two snubbers are situated one on either side of the front frame member D, Figure 2, which operate against
fibre stops (retained by screws) in the crankcase. The clearance between each of these snubbers and its
corresponding stop must be .015 to .020 inches with the engine in the static position.
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To adjust
Undo the snubber locknut and rotate the snubber until the correct clearance is obtained, finally retightening
the locknut.
The snubber plate G, Figure 1, at the top rear of the engine (see also C, Figure 2) also carries two horizontally
opposed torque reaction snubbers N. The clearances between each of these and the central tongue A must
be .015 to .020 Inches with the engine in the static position. Shims may be fitted behind the snubbers to
compensate for excessive wear on the rubber faces.
Finally, to ensure that both top and bottom snubbers are synchronized, and that the distance piece through
the damper plate D remains in the centre of the elongated slot, the nuts on the bolts E should first be
slackened, and the frame clip bracket 0 loosened by undoing the nut of the upper bolt B only. Centralise the
clip bracket so that the tongue A is midway between the snubbers N and the limit of movement (.030 to .040
inches) in each direction is simultaneously taken up on both top and bottom snubbers, i.e., when the upper
nearside and the lower offside snubbers touch simultaneously and vice versa. This is accomplished by forcibly
tilting the engine in each direction and checking the clearances.
IMPORTANT:
Make sure that the tongue A is locked in the frame clip bracket 0 and then that the nut of the upper bolt B
clamping the clip bracket to the frame top tube and the two damper plate retaining nuts of the bolts E are
absolutely tight.
This is an extract from The Sunbeam instruction Manual, 500 OHC Twin.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
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Data Sheet No. 4

Subject: Fault-finding - No spark at plugs
Date: June 1992
NO SPARK AT PLUGS... no discharge on ammeter when ignition on
Take the wire off the side of the distributor body, and with the ignition switched on, flash the wire to earth
(anywhere on the gearbox will do). IF IT FLASHES, the fault is in the distributor. The usual cause being the
points are not closing. Check points thoroughly, clean, and make sure they actually open and close squarely.
IF IT DOES NOT FLASH, remove the wire from the IG terminal on the ignition switch inside the control box
(IG terminal is the large one in the middle) and connect it to A terminal on the ignition switch.
Now check again whether the wire from the side of the distributor flashes to earth. IF IT DOES FLASH, then
the fault lies inside the ignition switch ... and another switch is the only answer here. IF IT DOES NOT SHOW
A FLASH, then the fault lies in the coil or the wiring to or from the coil.
With the ignition switched off, reconnect the wire from A back into A, and remove the wire from the SW or +
side of the coil, switch the ignition on and flash this coil wire to earth (make sure it is a good earth). IF IT
DOES FLASH, switch off and reconnect it, IF IT DOES NOT FLASH, there is a break in the wire. Fit a new
section of wire from IG on ignition switch to SW side of coil.
If it DID flash, and you've reconnected it, remove the wire from the CB or - side of the coil. Take a short
length, 2 feet or so, of loose wire, hold one end of it to the CB side of the coil, and with the ignition switched
on, flash the other end of the wire to earth. IF IT DOES NOT FLASH, the coil is useless. IF IT DOES FLASH,
switch off, and reconnect the CB wire.
Switch the ignition on, and test the LT wire from the side of the distributor against earth again, as in the first
test. IF IT STILL DOES NOT FLASH, then the wire from CB on the coil to the distributor body is broken, and
needs renewing.
None of these tests can give you a shock. A small testing light can be made quite easily, which can be used
instead of flashing the wires to earth, and gives a more positive result. Connect a length of insulated wire to
each of the two sides of a 6 V 3 W (or 6 W) bulb, or to a suitable old bulb holder. One end of wire is held to
the wire to be tested, and the other wire is held against earth. If there is power there the bulb will light up
which is easier to see than a wire flashing against earth.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
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Data Sheet No. 5

Subject: Fault-finding - Ammeter showing NO CHARGE
Date: June 1992
AMMETER SHOWING NO CHARGE

Unplug the wires from F and D in the terminal block on the dynamo. Get a short piece of wire - boxwire, or a
straightened-out paper clip. Bend to a U-shape so that it will touch both terminals in the terminal block.
Start the machine and rev up until about equivalent to 20-25 mph in top (equivalent revs that is!). Hold one
end of the bent wire into one terminal on the terminal block, and with a stroking action, stroke the other end
against the other terminal. E.g.. if one end is in D, stroke the other end against F or vice versa. A GOOD
BLUE FLASH SHOULD BE SEEN.
If there is nothing at all ... assume the dynamo is not outputting. If there is a weak spark ... assume the
dynamo is outputting some, but not sufficient. If there is a GOOD BLUE FLASH ... you can assume the
dynamo is outputting. The next test can be done even if the dynamo doesn't appear to be outputting, as it
sometimes excites it into starting again !
Get a piece of ordinary lighting wire similar to the piece of box-wire used in the first test. Plug one end firmly
into D on the terminal block, and the other end into F, and then plug the harness wires in on top. (The terminal
block is now bridged across as well as being wired up normally.)
Before going any further, make sure the CVC is properly earthed. (The CVC is the black 'box' inside the
control box above the coil ... and the earth for it comes out of E on its back ... and must be earthed to the
FRONT bolt that holds the control box to the frame ... not the rear one !). The main thing is that this must be
a good earth. Clean the bolt up. Scratch inside the control box to make sure it has a clean connection. When
satisfied ... start the machine again. Rev up until just over '/4 throttle, just over tickover ... and look at the
ammeter. It should show FULL CHARGE. Sometimes this is sufficient to start a sticky CVC working again, so
remove the bridging wire from the dynamo terminal block, refit the normal harness wires and check. You may
find all is OK now, and the ammeter reads normal charge rate. But if it doesn't, then the CVC needs checking,
either by a Lucas agent or send it to us.
ON NO ACCOUNT try fiddling with it yourself ... as you can do more harm than good and you may end up
needing an exchange unit even if you don't now !
If the ammeter didn't show a full charge with the bridging wire fitted ... then it could be wiring trouble. E.g.., the
yellow dynamo wire, where it goes to the ignition warning light could be shorting against the back of the
reflector in the headlamp, or chafed under the tank, behind the control box, or squeezed behind the CVC. Or it
could be that the dynamo output is insufficient or intermittent.
Going back to the beginning if the dynamo did not flash ... and does not appear to be outputting ...
Take off the cover. Check that the brushes are free in their holders . . . and that they are not worn down so
that the wires connected to them are touching the brush holders, or chipped etc.. Make sure the armature
comm. (the brass bit the brushes run on) is not dirty or scored. If greasy or dirty, turn engine over slowly with
the kickstart, and wipe comm. with a petrolly rag. Test again. Still nothing ... remove field set. If the
laminations on the armature ... all around it's middle are damaged at all ... any knocked out of line ... then it is
almost certainly not working.
A quick check can be made with two wires from the battery ... one end held onto the laminations and the other
wire onto the commutator. If you get a spark with these ... then the armature has DEFINITELY had it'.. . but if
you do not, then this is not a conclusive test, and the armature really needs testing on a growler. SOME auto-
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electrical firms have one and will check it for you.
If armature looks clean and wholesome ... then look at the fields. Check for breaks between the field coils
(these breaks are often hidden inside the insulated covering so tug on the loops between each winding ... and
make sure that they are joined). Check that the field holding-on screws are not holding these joining wires
back against the casing to which they will short. The screws should go inside them and be clear of them.
The fields can only be checked on an ohm meter (reading between 3 and 5 ohms). The armature can look
perfect and unmarked and likewise the field set but have internal breaks and thus not function. If in doubt ...
send them in for testing.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING
Data Sheet No. 6

Subject: Fault-finding - Clutch
Date: June 1992
Clutch does not free properly ... cable seems to be continually stretching ... gears difficult to change ...
ultimately ending in a high pitched squeal which alters note as the clutch is pulled in.
The clutch race has not been checked or repacked with grease lately, and is now wearing rapidly ... or worse,
worn out. The gearbox end of the clutch cable is pulling an arm. This arm pivots on a screw in the gearbox
and pushes against the clutch race, which can just be seen protruding from the gearbox.
If the wear has not gone too far, it can easily be removed by disconnecting the clutch cable, loosening the
locknut, undoing the pivot screw, and removing the operating arm. The race should then be easily pulled out,
using fingers only.
With the race in your hand, you will notice two tiny slots in the top, which enable you to pull out the circlip
holding in the 'innards'. These innards consist of a top piece in which the clutch pushrod sits, a bottom plate,
and between the two, either 6 balls and a central pip, or just 7 balls.
The surfaces that the balls run on should be smooth and flat.
Deep grooves indicate bad wear, likewise miniature or chipped
balls. Good innards raise the top part level with, or even slightly
proud of, the outside body ... but if you find it is sunk inside ...
then it needs replacing. Pack well with grease.
See A for GOOD, B for BAD.
BUT ... if the race will NOT pull out with fingers only ... then the
wear is advanced. If even Stillsons will not move it, then the
engine has to be removed from the frame and the gearbox taken
A B off.
From the centre of the mainshaft, at the clutch plate end of the gearbox, can be seen the head of the clutch
operating rod. Carefully prise this head off ... or the whole rod out. The race might then be found free . . . but if
the race is still firmly in, then another rod placed down the centre of the mainshaft will have to be used to
hammer the race out forcibly ... in which case it may push the brass bush out with it. This trouble is caused by
lack of grease in the race, the balls wear or seize up, and instead of the rod and top part of the race spinning
on the balls, the rod actually spins IN the top part. The heat then generated eventually neatly welds the rod
TO the race and thus the engine has to come out.
Also, as the rod gets worn shorter and shorter, all the clutch trouble and difficult gearchanging appear, and the
race starts hitting the end of the mainshaft, belling out the end ... thus pulling the bush out with it. You will
need a new or exchange ROD, and new race INNARDS ... if you are lucky enough at THIS stage to be able to
get the old innards out !
Always remove and check the race at intervals, repacking with grease, and replacing the balls or innards
complete as necessary.
And ALWAYS check the race if the clutch cable seems to be stretching rather quickly !
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
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Data Sheet No. 7

Subject: Fault-finding - Loss of power, poor performance, overheating, etc..
Date: June 1992
Loss of power, poor performance, overheating, etc..

Retarded ignition will give these symptoms, and when a distributor is worn, or wearing out, it will retard the
ignition, provided the actual driving dog is fitted in the correct position in the first place.
Remove the condenser, and by looking through the hole thus left, you can see the weights and springs.
From each weight a spring connects to an anchorage at the side, and each weight is pivoting on a peg. Both
spring anchorage and peg are part of the baseplate and shaft assembly. The base plate is FIXED to the
central shaft. It should have no movement in it.
To test this, put a finger through the condenser hole, and hold it firmly against one of the outside spring
anchorages. With the other hand, attempt to turn the driving dog backwards and forwards. ANY MOVEMENT
OF THE DOG SHOULD MOVE YOUR FINGER CORRESPONDINGLY. If you can move the dog without
moving your finger, then the shaft is LOOSE in the baseplate. A new shaft and baseplate is needed.
Next check the weights and springs. One spring is longer than the other ... but neither spring should be so
loose as to fall off. The hole in the weight which fits over the peg on the baseplate is a fairly tight fit on this peg
... and CIRCULAR. If the hole is enlarged, and oval, and the weight is a floppy fit, weights are needed. To test
if floppy ... shake the distributor on its side, the weights should not flop outwards ... a sure sign of which is a
shiny or scratched patch on the top of the spring anchorage on the weight, which indicates that the weight is
already beginning to catch on the underneath of the top plate.
When reassembling a dismantled distributor ... or after fitting new points, check that the condenser/ points
assembly has been correctly assembled, and that the insulating bushes or top hat washers are not only in
the right place, but are NOT oily, broken or cracked ... as these faults can give very poor performance ... if the
machine will go at all!
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SERVICE DEPARTMENT
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Data Sheet No. 8

Subject: Fault-finding - VALVE TIMING
Date: June 1992
VALVE TIMING
Poor all-round general running and performance, overheating, kicking-back, bad starting, etc..
Checking to see if the valves are correctly timed is very simple, and so is correcting the timing if wrong.
The engine can only be timed correctly on No. 2 cylinder, but as the handbook's references are very
confusing on this point, many engines get timed on No. 1 cylinder, which puts them OUT as the sketches
(overleaf) indicate.
To check the timing, remove the distributor and the clutch inspection cover (the OVAL cover at the top of the
bellhousing).
Through this clutch cover can be seen the clutch plates, and just behind them, with its edge just showing, the
flywheel. TDC is actually stamped on this showing edge of the flywheel in a position DIRECTLY above one of
the clutch plate securing nuts.
As there are only 6 nuts, there are only 6 positions to look for, so turn the kickstart lever down by hand, gently,
watching above each nut in turn until you find it ... and for future reference it pays to blob a little white paint on
that particular nut! ... and set it upright, directly below the top gearbox stud.
If the bike is actually running, and you know the timing is somewhere near right, you can tell approximately
where it will be on the flywheel by turning the engine until the top sprocket has its hole at the bottom, then by
looking at the flywheel ... the drawing overleaf will explain why.
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With TDC on the flywheel set at the top ... the position of the top sprocket will then be one of the three
positions below:
B, which is in fact A with the sprocket put in the wrong link of the chain is easily rectified by merely removing
the top sprocket bolt ... and moving the sprocket round one link.
C, on the other hand, which is timed on the wrong cylinder, cannot be corrected by merely moving the
sprocket round, as it only puts it out the other way !
To correct this . . . turn flywheel on a fraction to bring the top sprocket vertical as in A, then remove the top
sprocket bolt, and replace it with a screwdriver, pulling sprocket clear of camshaft and leave it sitting on the
screwdriver.
Now, turn the flywheel round ONE turn to TDC again. The sprocket is now UPSIDE DOWN. Holding the chain
up with two "hookers" of bent wire, turn the sprocket round in the chain. It will now go on the camshaft dead
vertical, and the timing is correct.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
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Data Sheet No. 9

Subject: Frame Dimensions (S.7 – 1948)
Date: June 1992
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Data Sheet No. 10

Subject: Frame Dimensions (S.7 Deluxe – 1949)
Date: June 1992
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Data Sheet No. 11

Subject: Frame Dimensions (S.8 1949)
Date: June 1992
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Data Sheet No. 12

Subject: Paintwork (S.7 & S.8)
Date: June 1992
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Data Sheet No. 13

Subject: Voltage Control (Servicing and Setting Up)
Date: November 1992
Small wonder that electrics overwhelm the amateur

mechanic. Given a pushrod-operated valve most of us can
see the relationship between the movement of a cam at one
end and the opening of a valve at the other. Electricity is less
transparent in its habits, but persevere. Remember. Your
wobbly efforts on that first bicycle. It was worth it wasn't it?
Every dynamo has two output wires: positive (+) and negative
(-). Confusingly, one of the 'wires' is the metal body, and it's
connected to earth by being bolted to the crank case, either
directly or through the magneto in combined systems. The
other output is the wire connected to the D terminal.
Good contact with the fabric of the machine is essential, and

if anything but the end cap has been painted, put function
before beauty and strip it to its original electroplate. A pretty
dynamo is no consolation when you're stranded by the pitch-
black roadside.
Dynamo voltage is raised by feeding a portion of the output

back to the field coil. The problem is that output varies with
demand depends on the riding conditions.
Consider a dynamo running flat out and feeding a well-charged battery. (See Diagram 2 next page.) Compare
that with a machine which is trickling along in top with its lights on full beam while attempting to charge a flat
battery. It is clear that we need something more flexible: Enter stage left the third brush dynamo.
This was sometimes known as the constant current system, and

instead of drawing its field coil input from the main brushes, fed it from
a separate brush, making use of a phenomenon known as armature
reaction.
As a dynamo's speed increases so its magnetic field distorts. By

careful placing of the third brush the voltage available could be made
to drop as the magnetic field moved away from it.
Of course that only takes into account part of the problem; variations
in dynamo speed. The demand for power will still depend on the state
of the battery, and whether lights are in use. So the other side of the
field coil was connected to the dynamo brush via the headlamp switch.
The photo of a Lucas switch from the 30's shows a resistance coil
which was switched in circuit when the charge or 'C' position was
selected. Thus the input was reduced when lights were not in use, with
the coil bypassed for night time riding.
And in the off position the field coil was taken out of circuit altogether.
This was essential, because one of the drawbacks of the system is
that it will burn out the field coil if run with no load. For that reason
when the battery is disconnected the switch must be set to off.
Adjustment of the third brush dynamo's output is achieved by moving

the brush and holder sideways.
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With a fully charged battery and the switch set to 'C' a

reading of two amps should be registered on the
machine's ammeter.
The third brush is the offset one, and it has no partner

on the opposite side of the commutator. Slacken the
screw in the brush holder and move the assembly to
vary output. The main brush sits in the best position for
collecting volts, so move the brush closer to increase
output, away to reduce it.
But the third brush system was still not perfect. The
resistance in series with the field coil meant that higher
speeds were needed to maintain a charge, which often
led to batteries going flat during prolonged slow speed
riding.
The problem was that output catered for average

conditions. Some manufacturers experimented with
additional switch positions, with resistances allowing
summer charge, winter charge and full charge rates, but
none were really successful.
Then came a solution which could adjust itself to any

conditions: constant voltage control or CVC. Sometimes
referred to as automatic voltage control, this was the
familiar regulator, that mysterious little black box
attached to the frame tube or tucked under the saddle
of so many machines.
The CVC does the same job as the third brush, but
does it better. More intelligent than the switched
resistance system, it samples the voltage between
earth and dynamo output terminals (the E and D
connections), and feeds a proportion of that output back
to the field coil (F). The fourth terminal on the underside
of the box is the output, (A), which connects to the
ammeter, Diagram 3.
Unlike the cut-out, the regulator contacts are normally closed, feeding the full output of the dynamo back to
the field coil as soon as the engine turns over. The dynamo output is also connected to a coil around an iron
core, and as the voltage increases so the magnet pulls at the armature. At a pre-set voltage the magnetic field
overcomes the pressure holding the contacts together, and separates them.
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As soon as the circuit to the field coil is broken the magnetic field in the dynamo collapses and voltage is
reduced in the regulator coil. This allows the points to close again, feeding the field coil until the process
repeats. By varying the spring pressure, we can decide at what voltage it all happens.
The main coils are hidden from view, wrapped in insulation but there are two additional coils, added to clear
up a couple of problems with the system.
'
A heavy winding on the cut-out bobbin helps to make cut-out operation more positive, preventing the points
chattering. And a flat wire coil connected to the output ensures that the dynamo won't try to supply more than
its windings can stand. If you add a couple of spotlights and a pair of heated handlebar grips, the
compensated voltage control system will call a halt before the armature starts throwing off goblets of molten
solder.
That at least is the theory of CVC operation but moisture, corrosion and fiddling fingers all take their toll.
The Lucas MCR1, which was introduced in 1935 for the 45 watt dynamo, and MCR2 which appeared after the
war, are most plentiful and also easiest to service. Their brass covers are retained by a spring clip.
Later units like the RB108 are encased in a tamper-proof aluminium case, with two linked rubber bungs giving
access to the cut-out and regulator adjusting screws. It is worth opening the case of an old unit to check
contact condition. Prise the alloy tags carefully away and lift the cover from its sponge gasket.
Setting of the regulator is not difficult provided it is tackled methodically. Of the two coils, the regulator is on
the left - the one with its points normally closed. Unlike the cut-out, it has no restricting tag above the
armature.
Turn the unit round and you will see a pair of screws which attach the fixed contact to the back. Remove the
upper one completely, slacken the lower, and swing the contact sideways.
This will reveal both contact faces, which can be cleaned up with a fine oilstone or emery stick. Get rid of
pitting, and degrease thoroughly before reassembly.
Now set air gaps (refer to LH coil, Diagram 3), beginning with the one between the armature and the regulator
frame. This should be between .018" and .020" which allows for any tapering of the gap. Adjustment is made
after slackening the armature fixing screws.
The gap between the armature and the coil core should measure between .012" and .020", with a feeler
gauge beneath the brass shim.
Finally, with the armature pressed down to the core, the contacts point gap should open to between .006" to
.017". It can be adjusted by careful bending of the fixed contact support.
RB107 and RB108 regulators with adjustable points above the armature
should be set so that the points just touch when a .021" gauge is placed
between armature and core.
On the back of the upright frame is a 38 ohm carbon resistor, attached to
the fixed contact screws by a metal strap. It is riveted to the regulator
frame and its function is to reduce sparking between the points as they
open.
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If the resistor has been damaged, or if the points

show severe pitting, obtain a replacement rated at
four watts or above. Cut the strap which connects the
carbon pellet, fit a tag under one of the armature
fixing screws and solder the replacement resistor
between it and the contact screws.
When the gaps are set the output can be adjusted.

Slip a piece of paper between the cut-out points to
avoid variations in load, and run the engine. Some
adjusters use a locknut, which should be slackened.
With a voltmeter connected between earth and the
regulator frame, rev the engine and adjust screw
pressure to give between 7.6 and 8 volts. Tighten the
screw to increase voltage, slacken to reduce.
Some riders prefer to switch the headlights on and
set output by using the ammeter. If you have no
voltmeter, this can be a solution, although no ideal.
With a good battery and the engine revs set to the
equivalent of 30 mph in top gear, aim to balance the
meter between charge and discharge. Resist the
temptation to give it a bit more. When adjusted
tighten the locknut and prevent engine vibrations from
undoing your good work. Lucas RB tpe regulators
were rubber mounted and less prone to interference
by stray crankshaft frequencies.
Miller dynamos continued to use a cut-out mounted
on the dynamo faceplate, but the third brush was
superseded by a remote regulator. Although this is
similar to the Lucas CVC, Miller offered a three-state
device which should have been better, but wasn’t
(Diagram 4, below).
STEWART ENGINEERING
Stage 1 shorts the dynamo field coil, stage two supplies it via a resistance and stage three feeds direct. if you
were paying attention earlier you'll recognise that the Miller system is little more than an automatic version of
the manually switched set-up in early headlamps.
Even hardened motor cycle electricians, who cut their teeth on the Miller regulator, admit that setting it up
properly takes at least three hours. If you are one of those people who happily have tacked the Gordian Knot
without so much as a blunt pen-knife, go ahead. Fortunately for the rest of us the problem has an electronic
solution, and it's available off the shelf.
On the subject of electronics, there are some excellent devices on sale which convert six volt systems to 12
volts. Fitting them requires simple substitution of the regulator.
Conversions have also been made by using a 12 volt car regulator, or even adjusting the 6 volt system to
double its output. A word of warning here, because while such systems may work successfully they can
provide the dynamo with a life-threatening challenge.
Until the output reaches 12 volts the regulator will continue to feed the dynamo product back into the field
winding, regardless of the fact that doing so generates no more power. Field coils have a fragile disposition,
and will burn out after relatively little of this treatment. If you must have a 12 volt system - and there is little
doubt about its superiority - be kind to your dynamo and fit an electronic device which restricts field current to
a safe level.
But the standard six volt system can work well providing it is harnessed to a good wiring loom. Field coils are
greedy. They just don't know when they've had enough, but restrict their input to a reasonable level, and
there's no cause to be afraid of the dark ever again. Go on. Get in there and give it a try.
STEWART ENGINEERING
Data Sheet No. 14

Subject: Fitting Cylinder Heads
STEWART ENGINEERING
Data Sheet No. 15

Subject: Oils
LUBRICATION CRITERIA FOR

CLASSIC, VINTAGE AND VETERAN ENGINES
The selection of a suitable lubricant for the "older" design internal combustion engine can be problematical.
Not only do we have the design parameters of the engines which will influence our choice but also a lot of
myth and anecdotal evidence which will cloud the issues.
There is no doubt that modern engine lubricants are a marvel of the formulating chemist's technology,
however to cater for the modern engine with all the environmental constraints, in the widest possible context,
placed upon it, they have attributes that can only be regarded as detrimental to the engines we are
considering.
If we look step by step into the requirements of an engine oil we will be able to see where the divergencies in
requirements are.
In a modern engine in these times of high fuel prices and an emphasis on fossil fuel conservation, low fuel
consumption is high on the desirable criteria lists. One of the many contributions that can be made to this is to
decrease the power required to pump the oil around the engine, therefore lower viscosities, especially at start-
up, are the order of the day. Normal viscosities of SAE classification 10W/40, and even 1OW/30, are now
used which fulfil this need very well.
These work very well in modern engines where modern metallurgy, machining techniques and design give us
clearances and surface finishes that can be lubricated with oil films as low as 1-2 micro-meters in thickness.
Not so in the older engine - because of the relative roughness of their surface finish they require oils whose
viscosity ratings are at least an SAE 30 or 40 and at times a 50 classification to give film thicknesses of a
minimum of 6-7 micro-meters. They also need to be monogrades because the multigrades get their viscosity
characteristics (or more correctly, their lower rate of thinning as the temperature increases) from the addition
of polymers. Polymers are long chain molecules which will shear as they are worked in an engine, this
shearing adversely affects their effectiveness and allows the viscosity of the oil to decrease by up to 15% at
any given temperature. This further decrease in viscosity of a lubricant whilst in use would not be a desirable
feature in older engines, for the reasons we have already stated, and additionally the sealing of the piston
rings to the bore also relies on an oil film, and the more rudimentary the bore machining techniques, the
thicker the film needed for satisfactory sealing.
Modern oils now contain an ever-increasing quantity of antiwear additives, mainly due to increased loading in
all areas of the engine, especially concerning camshaft and valve train lubrication. Whilst a certain antiwear
capability is not a bad thing, too much can, and often does, stop the piston rings bedding in to the cylinder
walls causing loss of compression and high oil consumption.
To obtain more power from engines whilst keeping their physical dimensions small, often means relatively
large increases in engine temperatures. These higher temperatures are transmitted to the oil and unless an oil
is adequately treated with additives to resist the chemical changes which occur, lacquers, varnishes and
acidic compounds are formed at an exponential rate commensurate with temperature rise. Even with these
additives the situation is even more exacerbated by foul breathing engines where crankchamber gases are
circulated within the engine and picked up by the oil.
To mitigate their effects on the engine, detergents are included in the oil to stop these compounds attaching
themselves to metallic surfaces and then baking on them and forming carbonaceous particles. Dispersancy
compounds included in the oil will then keep all of this material, plus that which has ingressed from the outside
environment, suspended so that the full flow filtration system can extract it from the body of the oil and thus
STEWART ENGINEERING
stop component damage. This is fine if the engine is fitted with a modern full-flow filtration system, but if it isn't
and only has a wire gauze pump inlet strainer, this material keeps circulating with the oil and will not only
increase the oil's viscosity thus cutting down flow, but will also block oil galleries and allow hot spots to
develop thus increasing wear and the chance of terminal damage on vulnerable and vital components.
Additives of all types also have an effect on the elastomeric material used in dynamic oil seals by causing
hardening and cracking leading to premature failure. Seals are now constructed from special materials such
as acrylates and fluorocarbons which resist chemical attack. The older type nitrile and butadiene rubbers are
not so good at resisting chemical reactions.
If we now analyse our requirements for an oil to use in the more mature engine, they will be these. Firstly,
monograde oils are the most suitable, starting at a minimum SAE viscosity classification of 30 and may be
going as high as 50. Little or no antiwear compounds need to be included because the stress level used in the
design of these engines does not warrant it. Perhaps a little detergent in the oil to extend the periods between
decarbonisation is desirable but certainly no dispersency additives present or we could ultimately end up with
an oil resembling a grinding paste. The avoidance of all additives which affect seals is of primary importance
but the inclusion of additives which resist oil oxidation and will stop surface corrosion are essential. This is
quite a tall order for lubricants whose offtake in the global scheme of things is relatively small. However, one
company in the United Kingdom is prepared to develop and market lubricants specifically for the people who
own and run the mature, vintage or veteran vehicle. They are Morris Lubricants of Shrewsbury, who offer at
least two ranges of oil to satisfy, in all respects, this market with their Supreme 30, 40 and 50 and the Elite 30,
40 and 50.
Further to this range of traditional mineral oil formulations Morris Lubricants also produce castor oil based
products. Castor oils have many desirable properties such as exceptionally high film strength, the
maintenance of such films being essential for the engines we are considering, and excellent lubricity. The film
strength and oiliness (the ability of the oil to stay chemically attached to a metallic surface) helps to prevent
the seizure of moving parts under conditions of high loads and relative velocities.
In order to understand the advantages and disadvantages of using castor based oils in engines it is necessary
to appreciate some of the many design changes that have taken place over the developing years of the
internal combustion engine, and how these changes have affected lubrication and lubricants over the past 60-
70 years.
In its natural form castor oil is normally very viscous - about SAE 50. This inherent thickness provided good
lubrication to big end and crank roller bearings and formed a good gas seal between the wider clearances of
the pistons and barrels of early engines.
Early design surface seals between engine components also benefited from this viscosity as oil losses
through leaks were minimised.
Today there is a need to provide the increasing number of classic and vintage racing vehicle owners with oils
that are appropriate to their needs.
Additive systems are now available to reduce lacquer and deposit build-up on rings, pistons and valves due to
the relatively rapid oxidation of castor during the combustion process, although the operational life of this type
of lubricant can be significantly lower than mineral oil based products.
Because of the problem of water contamination which is formed during the combustion process, anti-corrosion
additives need to be introduced to reduce deposit formation and protect the softer metals from corrosive
attack.
Many modern castors also contain blends of synthetic esters, again these help to improve stability, low
temperature properties and oxidation resistance.
Castor/ester blends are also available in a variety of viscosities, usually SAE 30, 40 and 50. The esters can
also act as a solubilising agent for some of the additives such as rust inhibitors and anti-oxidants.
STEWART ENGINEERING
However, care must always be taken when mixing with unleaded petrols as castor can unbalance the additive
system used in modern gasoline, causing precipitation and sludging which can block fuel lines.
Where methanol fuels are used for two-stroke application, castor mixes extremely well but there are a few
handling problems.
Firstly, methanol is flammable, so extreme care is required when mixing. Water absorption limits shelf life of
mixed solutions so it is better to mix sufficient only for immediate needs.
Using older mixture can also lead to sludging in the fuel lines with poor combustion resulting from the excess
water content of the fuel mixture.
During combustion large amounts of water are produced which may lead to corroson and rusting. Ring
sticking, rapid piston and cylinder wear will result unless these cautions are heeded.
Castor and leaded fuels present few problems when mixed together although this practice will gradually
become obsolete as production gears more towards unleaded fuels.
STEWART ENGINEERING
Data Sheet No. 15B

Subject: Oils
MAINTENANCE NOTES
DIPSTICK OIL LEVEL

Level should be just to the LINE whilst COLD, and held upright, NOT on the sidestand. This level will drop to
about halfway between the line and the bottom of the stick whilst the engine is running as the oil circulates,
and the oil should never be topped up to the line whilst in this state - otherwise it will be overfilled with the
consequential oil losses, especially from dipstick cap and breather.
Never overfill the sump - it's a false economy as the excess oil will be lost or burnt very quickly, so that the oil
consumption will (falsely) appear to be very poor.
Try and check the oil always BEFORE using the machine, and top up, if needed before you go, not during the
trip!
You may be surprised at your new oil economy.
REAR DRIVE OIL LEVEL

The rear drive oil is SAE 140 and NO OTHER OIL MUST BE USED. This oil is of a special consistency and it
is very easy to overfill the rear-drive resulting in great pressures inside it with oil loss and ruined brake shoes.
The level plug should be removed with the bike standing in a level attitude, and the approximate amount of
required oil poured into the top. Wait until it appears at the level plug hole - THEN GO AWAY AND LEAVE IT
until NO more oil emerges. This may be 20 minutes later as the oil laboriously finds its way round the
wormwheel. Until no more oil drips from it ... the level plug should not be replaced as the reardrive will be
overfilled.
A good check is to run the bike round until the reardrive is warm - then remove the level plug. If any oil comes
out, it was overfilled!
Gearbox oil level is also critical as excess oil will force its way out of the mainshaft oil seal and find its way
onto the clutch eventually.
Use only SAE 50 oil in the engine in Summer and SAE 40 in Winter. Gearbox is quite happy with SAE 40 all
the year round.
MULTIGRADES are NOT recommended!

STEWART ENGINEERING
Data Sheet No. 16

Subject: Fitting a Distributor Dog
Date: 1966
A Lucas exchange distributor is supplied without oil seal, dog or dog washer. A new oil seal must be
purchased, but the old dog and dog washer are used. The shaft is NOT drilled in any way to take the dog ...
and the dog MUST be positioned accurately for the ignition timing. Lucas drilled dogs are pinned with a taper
pin ... but if your dog has already been used, you may find the existing hole in it a little enlarged ... and in this
case you can drill with an ordinary 1/8" drill, and fit a pin made of 1/8" silver steel rod. Fit the oil seal with the
spring in it towards the engine end by pushing it in with the dog and washer. DON'T forget the washer!
Once drilled, and the pin fitted, peen over the ends of the pin to prevent it ever falling out.
As the dog can be fitted either way up ... it follows that depend on which way it is fitted ... the plug leads may
or may not be fitted to the same plug as they were before. So if on kicking the machine over, all you get is a
backfire, or a spit through the carb., merely change over the leads. The normal, and the Lucas, procedure is
to fit the dog the way up as in the drawing above.
On an engine in good condition, with a good timing chain, and a distributor in good condition with the dog
fitted as above, it should run CENTRAL on the slots, but starting from this position, it can be adjusted either
way.
Should your dog have a grossly enlarged hole in it, too large for a 1/8" pin, do not drill oversize. Merely drill
across the dog the OPPOSITE way to the original hole.
STEWART ENGINEERING
Data Sheet No. 17

Subject: Common Sunbeam Bolt Sizes (S7 & S8)
Note: All sizes BSF unless stated otherwise

STEWART ENGINEERING
Data Sheet No. 18

Subject: Hints and Tips for AMAL Carburettor Series 600 and 900
This data sheet is derived from the publication by AMAL Ltd., Holdford Road, Witton, Birmingham.
List No. 117/3 (Issue No. 5)
STEWART ENGINEERING
HOW THE CARBURETTOR WORKS
The carburettor proportions and atomises the right amount of petrol with the air that is drawn in by the engine
because of the correct proportions of jet sizes and the main choke bore. The float chamber maintains a
constant level of fuel at the jets and cuts off the supply when the engine stops.
The throttle control from the handlebar controls the volume of mixture and therefore the power, and at all
positions of the throttle the mixture is automatically correct. The opening of the throttle brings first into action
the mixture supply from the pilot jet system for idling, then as it progressively opens, via the pilot by-pass the
mixture is augmented from the main jet, the earlier stages of which action is controlled by the needle in the
needle jet. The pilot jet system is supplied by the pilot jet (30) which is detachable on removal of the float
chamber. On certain other models no pilot jet is fitted but a pilot bush is inserted in the continuation of the pilot
air adjusting screw passage. The main jet does not spray directly into the mixing chamber, but discharges
through the needle jet into the primary air chamber, and goes from there as a rich petrol-air mixture through
the primary air choke into the main air choke.
The carburettors usually have a separately operated mixture control called an air valve, for use when starting
from cold, and until the engine is warm; this control partially blocks the passage of air through the main choke.
This design of carburettor offers perfectly simple and effective tuning facilities.
HINTS AND TIPS

STARTING from cold. Turn on fuel supply, set ignition (if manually operated) for best slow running, depress
tickler to flood float chamber, close air valve, open throttle slightly and start engine. When engine starts open
air valve and close the throttle; if engine begins to falter, partially close the air valve until engine is warm, then
set in fully open position.
STARTING, engine hot Open throttle slightly and start engine. It should not normally be necessary to flood the
float chamber or close the air valve when starting a warm engine.
STARTING, general. Experience will show when it is necessary to flood the carburettor or use the air valve
and also the best setting of the throttle valve. if the carburettor has been over-flooded or strangled, which
would result in a wet engine and over-rich starting mixture - fully open the throttle valve and air valve, give the
engine several turns to clear the richness, then start again with the air valve fully open and the throttle valve
slightly open.
STARTING, SINGLE LEVER CARBURETTORS. OPEN THE THROTTLE VERY SLIGHTLY FROM THE
IDLING POSITION AND FLOOD THE CARBURETTOR MORE OR LESS ACCORDING TO THE ENGINE
BEING COLD OR HOT RESPECTIVELY.
CABLE CONTROLS. See that there is a minimum of backlash when the controls are set back and that any
movement of the handlebar does not cause the throttle to open; this is done by the adjusters on top of the
carburettor, after releasing the adjuster locknuts. See that the throttle valve shuts down freely, then reset
locknuts.
PETROL FEED. A filter gauze is fitted at the inlet to the float chamber, to remove this gauze unscrew the
banjo bolt (9) the banjo and filter gauze can then be removed. Before replacement ensure that the filter gauze
is both clean and undamaged and check fuel supply by momentarily turning on fuel tap. Vertical loops In
petrol pipes must be avoided to prevent air locks. Float chamber flooding may be due to a warn float needle
but nearly all flooding and blockage of the filter gauze with new machines is due to impurities from the tank.
Periodically clean out filter gauze and float chamber until the trouble ceases or alternatively the tank may be
drained and swilled out, etc..
FIXING CARBURETTOR AND AIR LEAKS. Erratic slow running is often caused by air leaks, so verify there
are none at the point of attachment to the cylinder or inlet pipe. A sealing ring is fitted into the attachment
flange of the carburettor. Also in old machines look out for air leaks caused by a warn throttle or worn inlet
STEWART ENGINEERING
valve guide.
BANGING IN EXHAUST may be caused by too weak a pilot mixture when the throttle is closed or nearly
closed - also it may be caused by too rich a pilot mixture and an air leak in the exhaust system. The reason In
either case is that the mixture has not fired in the cylinder and has fired in the hot silencer. If the banging
happens when the throttle is fairly wide open the trouble will be ignition - not carburation.
BAD PETROL CONSUMPTION of a new machine may be due to flooding, caused by Impurities from the
petrol tank lodging on the float needle seat and so prevent its valve from closing. Flooding may be caused by
a worn float needle valve. Also bad petrol consumption will be apparent if the needle jet (24) has worn; it may
be remedied or improved by lowering the needle In the throttle, but if it cannot be - then the only remedy is to
get a new needle let.
AIR FILTERS. These may affect the jet setting, so if one is fitted afterwards to the carburettor the main jet
may have to be smaller. If a carburettor is set with an air filter and the engine is run without it, take care not to
overheat the engine due to too weak a mixture; testing with the air valve will indicate if a larger main jet and
higher needle position are required.
EFFECT OF ALTITUDE ON CARBURETTOR. Increased altitude tends to produce a rich mixture. The
greater the altitude, the smaller the main jet required. Carburettors ex-works are set suitable for altitudes up to
3,000 feet approximately. Carburettors used constantly at altitudes 3,000 to 6,000 feet should have a
reduction in main jet size of 5 per cent, and thereafter for every 3,000 feet in excess of 6,000 feet altitude
further reductions of 4 per cent should be made.
RE-ASSEMBLING
When replacing the valve assembly see that the jet needle goes into the holes in the choke tube, needle jet
and main jet and that both the throttle and air valve spring locate correctly in the mixing chamber top.
When refitting the float, engage the float needle recess in the horseshoe section of the float and fit in float
chamber. Check that the needle jet (24) jet holder (28) and main jet (29) are fully tightened together before
screwing assembly into the body.
Removing the silencer or running with a straight through pipe requires a richer setting.
STEWART ENGINEERING
Having verified the correctness of fuel feed and that there are no air leaks, check over ignition, valve operation
and timing. Now at throttle position shown on page 3, fig. 5, test to see if mixtures are rich or weak. This is
done by partially closing the air valve, and if engine runs better weakness is indicated, but if engine runs
worse richness is indicated.
NOTE: It Is not correct to cure a rich mixture at half throttle by fitting a smaller main jet because the main jet
may be correct for power at full throttle: the proper thing to do is to lower the needle.
PARTS TO TUNE UP WITH

THROTTLE ADJUSTING SCREW (26). Set this screw to hold the throttle open sufficiently to keep the engine
running when the twist grip is off. An "O" ring is fitted to the screw to hold this adjustment by friction.
MAIN JET (29). The main jet controls the petrol supply when the throttle is more than three-
quarters open, but at smaller throttle openings although the supply of fuel goes through the
main jet, the amount is diminished by the metering effect of the needle in the needle jet.
Each jet is calibrated and numbered so that Its exact discharge is known and two jets of the
same number are alike.
NEVER REAM A JET OUT, GET ANOTHER OF THE RIGHT SIZE. The bigger the number the
bigger the jet.
To remove the main jet, remove the float chamber, the exposed main jet can then be
unscrewed from the jet holder (28).
Fig. 4
NEEDLE AND NEEDLE JET (22 and 24). The needle being taper either allows more or less petrol to pass
through the needle jet as the throttle is opened or closed throughout the range except when idling or nearly
full throttle. The taper needle position in relation to the throttle valve can be set according to the mixture
required by repositioning the jet needle clip in any of three positions thus raising or lowering it. Raising the
needle richens the mixture and lowering it weakens the mixture at throttle openings from one quarter to three-
quarters open (see fig. 5). The throttle needles are marked with a single groove around the top diameter for
use on the 600 series carburettor, the 900 series carburettor needles are identified by three grooves around
the top of the needle, throttle needles identified by two grooves are used on certain models for both series 600
and 900 carburettors.
THROTTLE VALVE CUT-AWAY. The atmospheric side of the throttle is cut away to Influence the depression
on the main fuel supply and thus gives a means of tuning between the pilot and needle jet range of throttle
opening. The amount of cut-away is recorded by a number marked on the throttle valve, viz., 622/3 means
throttle valve type 622 with No. 3 cut-away; larger cut-aways, say 4 and 5; give weaker mixtures and 2 a
richer mixture.
AIR VALVE (3) is used only for starting and running when cold, and for experimenting with, otherwise run with
it wide open.
STEWART ENGINEERING
TICKLER (25), a small plunger spring loaded, fixed in the carburettor body. When pressed down on the float,
the needle valve is allowed to open and so "flooding" is achieved. Flooding temporarily enriches the mixture
until the level of the petrol subsides to normal.
ALCOHOL FUELS. When using alcohol fuels the following new components are necessary. A metallic banjo
preferably double feed if not already fitted, float chamber 622/051, banjo bolt washer 13/163, needle jet
622/100, jet needle 622/099 or 928/099 according to type of carburettor, filter gauze 376/0938 and banjo
washer 14/175.
The main jet must be increased for straight alcohol by approximately 150%. The final setting must be a
question of trial and error according to the nature of fuel used.
When using alcohol fuels it is advisable to err on the rich side to avoid engine overheating.
TUNE UP IN THE FOLLOWING ORDER

NOTE. The carburettor is automatic throughout the throttle range - the air valve should always be wide open
except when used for starting or until the engine has warmed up. We assume normal petrols are used.
READ REMARKS ON PREVIOUS COLUMN for each tuning device and get the motor going perfectly on a
quiet road with a slight up gradient so that on test the engine is pulling.
1st. MAIN JET with throttle in position I (fig. 5).

If at full throttle the engine runs "heavily" the main jet is too large. If at full throttle by slightly closing the throttle
or air valve the engine seems to have better power, the main jet is too small.
With a correct sized main jet the engine at full throttle should run evenly and regularly with maximum power.
If testing for speed work ensure that the main jet size is sufficient for the mixture to be rich enough to keep the
engine cool, and to verify this examine the sparking plug after taking a fast run, declutching and stopping the
engine quickly. If the plug body at its end has a cool appearance the mixture is correct; if sooty, the mixture is
rich; if however there are signs of intense heat, the mixture is too weak and a larger main jet is necessary.
2nd. PILOT JET (fig. 5) with throttle in positions 2 and 5.

With engine idling too fast with the twist grip shut off and the throttle shut down on to the throttle adjusting
screw, and ignition set for best slow running: (I) Screw out throttle adjusting screw until the engine runs slower
and begins to falter, then screw pilot air adjusting screw in or out, to make engine run regularly and faster. (2)
STEWART ENGINEERING
Now gently lower the throttle adjusting screw until the engine runs slower and just begins to falter, adjust the
pilot air adjusting screw to get best slow running: if this 2nd adjustment makes engine run too fast, go over the
job again a third time. Both the throttle adjusting screw and pilot air screw have an "0" ring fitted to hold the
adjustment by friction.
3rd. THROTTLE CUT-AWAY with throttle in position 3 (fig. 5).

If, as you take off from the idling position, there is objectionable spitting from the carburettor, slightly richen the
pilot mixture by screwing in the air screw sufficiently, but if this is not effective, screw it back again, and fit a
throttle with a smaller cut-away. If the engine jerks under load at this throttle position and there is no spitting,
either the jet needle is much too high or a larger throttle cut-away is required to cure richness.
4th. NEEDLE with throttle in position 4 (fig. 5).

The needle controls a wide range of throttle opening and also the acceleration. Try the needle in the lower
position, viz., with the clip in the groove at the top; if acceleration is poor and with air valve partially closed the
results are better, raise the needle by two grooves; If very much better try lowering needle by one groove and
leave it where It Is best. If mixture is still too rich with clip in groove No. I nearest the top - the needle jet
probably wants replacement because of wear. If the needle itself has had several years' use replace It also.
5th. FINALLY go over the idling again for final touches.
TUNING TWIN ENGINES WITH TWIN

CARBURETTORS
where each cylinder has its own carburettor.
First of all, slacken the Throttle stop screws and put the Twist Grip into the shut off position to allow the
Throttles to shut off; there should be a slight backlash in the cables which backlash can be obtained,- if
necessary, by screwing in the cable adjusting screws on the top of the Carburettor after releasing lock nuts.
Then, with the Handlebars in the normal position, and with the Throttles closed, adjust the cable adjusting
screws so that on the slightest opening of the Twist Grip, both Throttles begin to open simultaneously, then
reset lock nuts.
To set the Carburettors, follow the procedure as given above, and bear in mind these "Hints" which may be
useful:- Main jet sizes are of course selected by checking the effect of the Mixture on the Sparking Plugs after
taking a run at full throttle over a straight piece of road; the smallest pair of jets that give the best maximum
speed are usually correct provided that the Plugs do not show any signs of excessive heat. It might be that for
really critical tuning, one Carburettor might require a slightly different jet size from the other.
For slow running, set the Twist Grip to make the Engine run slowly but just faster than a "tick-over"; then
gently screw in the Throttle stops to just hold the Throttles in that position, and return the Twist Grip into the
shut position, leaving the Engine running on the Throttle Stops.
The next thing to do is to set each Carburettor, to obtain the idling by screwing down the Throttle Stop Screws
and adjusting the Pilot Air Screws accordingly.
Regarding the setting of the Pilot, a fairly satisfactory method is to detach one Sparking Plug lead, and set the
Pilot Air Adjusting Screw on the other Cylinder as a single unit, and then reversing the process to the other
Cylinder. It may be found that when both leads are connected to the Sparking Plugs, the Engine runs slightly
quicker than desirable, in which case, a slight readjustment of the Throttle Stop Screws will put this right. It is
essential that the speed of idling on both Cylinders is approximately the same, as this will either make or mar
the smoothness of the get-away on the initial opening of the Throttle.
It is essential with Twin Carburettors that the Throttle Slides are a good fit in the bodies, and also that there is
no suspicion of air leaks at either of the flange attachments to the Cylinder.
Regarding the lower end of the Throttle range, which is always the more difficult to set, one can only take
excessive pains to make quite sure that the Control Cables are perfectly adjusted, without any excessive
backlash or difference in the amount of backlash between one Carburettor and another; otherwise one
Throttle slide will be out of phase with the other, and so resulting in lumpy running.
STEWART ENGINEERING
To check the opening of the Throttle simultaneously, shut the Twist Grip back so that the Throttles are resting
on the Throttle Stop Screws in their final position of adjustment; then insert the fingers into the air intakes and
press them on the Throttles and with the other hand, gently open by the Twist Grip and feel that the Throttles
lift off their stops at the same time.
SERVICE ARRANGEMENTS
There are many AMAL Service Stockists in Great Britain and also in other countries where Motor-cycling is
popular; They have information about recommended settings for all standard machines and you are strongly
advised to purchase GENUINE AMAL SPARES through them, at our List prices.
ALL GENUINE JETS are stamped with the name AMAL and with the Calibration Number.
STEWART ENGINEERING
Data Sheet No. 19

Subject: Engine Rubber Mountings
Date: 7 August 1952
The Pros and Cons of Flexible Mountings for Motor Cycle Power Units
by Alan Baker B.Sc., A.M.LMech. E.
(from The Motor Cycle, 7 August 1952)
In his article, `Unbalance of the Piston Engine' (The Motor Cycle for April 10),
"Ubique" pointed out that the normal types of motor cycle engine cannot be
perfectly balanced, no matter how much care is exercised in the design and
development work, and in the erection of each unit. All such engines suffer
from vibration to a greater or lesser extent. Subsequently, the Editor drew
attention to the prevalence of vibration with modern motor cycles, and asked a
question which many of his readers must have echoed: is rubber-mounting of
the power-unit the solution?
Rubber as a means of absorbing vibration is known and accepted throughout the engineering world, and its
multitudinous applications range from supporting delicate instruments to the mounting of motor-bus bodies
and diesel-generator sets. Rubber in the bearers of automobile engines is now commonplace, and is largely
responsible for the remote feel of the average car engine of today. The use of rubber for this purpose is not
intended to cover up bad vibrational characteristics resulting from indifferent balancing, but to eliminate - or at
least render negligible - the transmission of unavoidable vibration.
Most motor cycles have what is commonly called a `vibration period' within the usable range of engine speed.
Some machines have more than one period. A period is usually a narrow range of revolutions in which the
engine feels rougher than it does at other speeds. It may not generally be known that this is not really an
engine phenomenon, but is due to the engine's vibration frequency getting into step with the natural frequency
of vibrations of some other part of the machine, such as the frame (which may have several natural
frequencies) or handlebar. This coincidence of frequencies causes the part concerned to resonate, or vibrate
in sympathy, thus giving the effect of increased vibration from the engine.
NATURAL FREQUENCY
The engine vibration is there throughout the speed range; its magnitude
depends on that of the out-of-balance forces, and its frequency on the
engine speed. With a rigid mounting and reasonable balance
characteristics, much of the vibration is normally absorbed in the
surrounding structure and it may only become noticeable when
resonance occurs.
This effect has often been noticed on changing an engine from one
frame to another of different design (and hence different natural
frequencies), when the period occurs at a different engine speed. Also,
as "Torrens" has mentioned on occasions, alteration of the natural
frequency of the handlebar can work wonders if the handlebar vibrates
badly at a frequently used speed. It may not be possible to push the
natural frequency outside the engine speed range, but it can usually be
`moved' to a less critical part of the speed range.
Various attempts at using rubber as an anti-vibration mounting for
handlebars have not always been successful, and all have been
dropped. They sometimes ~4 suffered from two drawbacks: first, they
caused a deterioration on handling qualities owing to the interposition of
`jelly' between rider and front wheel,
Right: Sunbeam S7 forward engine mounting and steadying snubbers.
STEWART ENGINEERING
and secondly, they aimed at removing a symptom instead of attacking the disease at its source. Vibration at
footrests, saddle, or petrol tank can be as uncomfortable as dithering handlebars. Only by effectively
insulating the engine unit from the rest of the machine can the sympathetic vibrations be reduced or
eliminated. Rubber is the obvious and most suitable material for a resilient mounting of this kind.
There are two methods of mounting an engine in rubber - fully flexible or semi-flexible. In the former, the
location of the bearers and the degree of resilience allow sufficient freedom for the absorption of vibration and
torque reaction impulses. With the semi-flexible, the amount of movement is restricted and the degree of
insulation correspondingly reduced, for it is not intended to provide complete isolation of vibration, but to
reduce the intensity of its transmission.
Both layouts share the disadvantage that the engine is no longer able to stiffen the frame, which, therefore,
could not be of the diamond pattern. In a cradle frame, the engine is not specifically a structural member, but
since the engine is normally rigidly attached to the frame at three or more points, it does form a useful brace.
If the frame had to rely entirely on its own rigidity it might have to be slightly more robust. Thus, with a rubber
engine mounting, an increase in weight might be necessary unless more costly materials or sections were
employed.
Where shaft final drive is used, neither type of mounting should present much difficulty, since the universal
joints and splined coupling should be able to accommodate as much relative movement as even a fully
flexible mounting would require. A possible exception is the big 'single', with which the forces involved would
necessitate a fairly large travel for their absorption.
If transmission is by means of chain, the picture is very different, because a chain (if it is to function efficiently
and to give good service) requires accurate alignment of sprockets to be maintained, and the minimum of
centre-distance variation. The relative movement with the semi-flexible mounting could probably be kept
sufficiently small to reduce the hardships endured by the chain to within reasonable limits. Even so, it would
seem preferable to adopt unit or semi-unit construction of engine and gearbox, thereby avoiding trouble with
the high-speed, short-centre primary drive.
SEMI-FLEXIBLE MOUNTING
It appears highly unlikely, however, that, owing to the amount of movement required, chain transmission could
prove satisfactory with a fully flexible mounting. Since the axis of oscillation under torque reaction is that of the
least moment of inertia of the engine unit, it is, in theory, possible to eliminate variation in drive centres from
this cause by locating the sprocket on this axis, but to do so would certainly introduce complications. Also, the
out-ofbalance forces, being of quite a different nature, would still cause excessive movement of the sprocket.
Sine the fully flexible mounting appears to be limited in its application to machines with shaft final drive, what
are the prospects for the semi-flexible type, which should be capable of incorporation with shaft or chain? No
great amount of experimental work has been done thereon, so the information available is rather limited, but
expert opinion is that such mountings could not be a general cure for vibration troubles. The reason is that, at
best, the semi-flexible mounting can be no more than a compromise - and compromises rarely achieve
anything like the full advantages of either extreme.
While the semi-flexible mounting could, in a particular case, effect an improvement by 'de-tuning' an otherwise
troublesome vibration, it might prove, in another instance, to be more unsatisfactory than the rigid mounting it
supplants. The energy of the vibration must be absorbed somewhere, and with a rigid mounting this is done to
a considerable extent by the frame. if the engine is flexibly mounted, the amplitude of the vibration is governed
by its mass relative to the reciprocating weight, and the degree of balance of the latter.
The fully flexible mounting absorbs the whole of such movement so that there is, in effect, no vibration to
transmit. In unfavourable circumstances, a semi-flexible mounting might give rise to nearly as much
movement as the fully flexible one while transmitting forces as large as, or larger than, the rigid mounting. It
might be thought that such a mounting should come into its own in the lightweight field, since the forces to be
dealt with would be small. However, it is far from certain that a worthwhile improvement in the vibrational
characteristics would result, as was found by a well-known manufacturer of small-capacity machines. This firm
experimented with an engine-gear unit mounted on concentric rubber sleeve bearings. Three mounting points
for the unit were provided in a normal cradle frame.
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Tests revealed that the improvement in smoothness of running

in comparison with the standard mounting was so small as to
be hardly noticeable, and the results did not warrant the added
complication and expense.
It is at this point that the knowledgeable reader asks, "What

about the LE Velocette? It has semi-flexible mounting and is
probably the smoothest motorcycle yet made." He is right on
both counts, but it should be borne in mind that the flat-twin
engine is one of the better motorcycle layouts from the balance
aspect; only a rocking couple mars its tranquillity. With the
small dimensions and low reciprocating weights on this engine,
the couples are very modest, as are the torque reaction
impulses.
Consequently, the 200cc twin-cylinder Velocette is an inherently smooth engine; it is, therefore, not altogether
surprising to learn that the primary function of the rubber mounting in this design is not to absorb vibration, but
to minimise the amount of noise transmitted to the sheet steel of the frame. This insulation is effected by
interposing rubber grommets between the engine unit and frame at front and rear and, in addition, rubber
washers are employed to prevent metallic contact with the mounting bolts.
'FLOATING-POWER' PRINCIPLE
The mounting employed on the Sunbeam S7 and S8 models
is of the fully flexible pattern and is arranged on the original
Chrysler 'floating-power' principle. This system entails two
main supports, one high up at the front of the engine and the
other underneath the gearbox. The two supports lie on the
axis of least moment of inertia. When the engine is idling or
running under light load, it floats entirely on these supports,
but increased lateral resistance to torque reaction is provided
when required by two pairs of rubber snubbers. One pair is
carried on the front down-tubes, and the other above and
behind the cylinder head, equidistant from the axis of
oscillation. Diagrammatic drawing of the engine resilient
Mountings of the Sunbeam twin
So far, only primary unbalance and torque reaction have been considered vis-a-vis the resilient engine
mounting, but there are other possible sources of vibration. Unbalanced secondary forces, though not so
troublesome as the primaries, can be of appreciable magnitude, particularly if, in the interests of
compactness, the con-rod is short. "Ubique" explained that the frequency of the secondaries is twice per
revolution, or double that of the primaries, and their direction is vertical. Hence the whole nature of secondary
forces is different, so that a flexible mounting designed purely with the primary forces in mind could
conceivably result in some unpleasantness from the secondaries. In the Sunbeam layout, these secondary
vibrations are dealt with by an additional friction damper incorporated in the upper snubber mounting.
The crankshaft also comes into the picture since, like any other shaft, it has a natural frequency of torsional
vibration. Where this coincides with the frequency of the applied impulses (in this case, the power strokes of
the engine), torsional resonance will be set up in the shaft.
Since the average motorcycle crankshaft assembly is short and stiff, its natural frequency is very high, and is
well outside the range of engine speed which can be reached. Even four-cylinder, in-line engines of normal
size are rarely troubled by a crankshaft period, though it is possible that a small straight-four capable of high
r.p.m. might be affected. In straight sixes and eights in the automobile world, the point has to be watched, and
torsional vibration dampers are sometimes found to be necessary.
Torsional resonance in the transmission can also occur, but this is usually taken care of by some form of
cushdrive and is rarely troublesome.
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CASE FOR THE MULTI

So, I think, we may draw these conclusions. From the vibrational aspect, there is a strong theoretical case for
multi-cylinder engines on account of the reduction in the magnitude of the out-of-balance forces produced in a
given size of engine. The lower the amplitude of vibration, the more easily it can be absorbed, either in the
surrounding structure or in a rubber mounting. To ensure a satisfactory degree of isolation of the vibration and
of torque reaction impulses, a fully flexible mounting is necessary.
The unit-construction, shaft-drive layout is, in general, a satisfactory proposition for a fully flexible mounting;
the possible exception is the large single-cylinder engine. However, such a mounting is not suitable for use
with chain drive.
The semi-flexible mounting, while more generally applicable, is certainly not a panacea for vibration troubles,
though it may be valuable in particular instances. Where a rigid engine mounting is used, there seems to be
scope for closer co-ordination between engine and frame design (this to include appendages such as the
handlebar) to ensure that so-called 'periods' occur, as far as possible, at less important parts of the engine-
speed range. The more extensive use of rubber in the mounting of various parts of a machine with rigid
engine mounting could prove helpful in eliminating sympathetic vibration.
STEWART ENGINEERING
Lucas Workshop Instructions

Motorcycle Generator
Model MC45L
1. GENERAL
Model MC45L generator is designed for building directly into the engine crankcase. Of four-pole fourbrush
shunt wound design, this generator is arranged to operate in conjunction with the standard motorcycle control
box. (see SECTION L-3, Part A.). As compared with other motorcycle generators, the yoke is of greater
overall diameter (4.5 in.) but is very much shorter, the length being 2.75 in.
Two different methods of mounting have been devised for supporting and driving the armature. On Sunbeam
S7 and S8 models the armature Is mounted on a sleeve which fits over the end of the crankshaft and is
secured by a bolt passing axially through the armature and sleeve. On Scott 'Flying Squirrel' models the
armature is supported by ball bearings at both ends. The ball bearing at the drive end is clarflped in position
by the driving flange, which is secured to the armature shaft by a bolt. The ball bearing at the commutator end
is secured to the armature shaft by a countersunk screw.
Both methods of mounting incorporate a rubber oil seal at the drive end of the generator, to prevent the
ingress of oil to the generator from the engine.
The yoke, pole shoe and field coil assembly which is of conventional design, is spigoted directly into the
engine crankcase and secured by countersunk-headed bolts on Sunbeam motorcycles. On Scott motorcycles,
two through bolts secure the commutator end bracket and yoke on the drive housing which in turn is clamped
to the engine crankcase.
The brushgear is carried on a plate fitted to the commutator end of the yoke assembly. The polished
commutator end cover (Sunbeam) or bracket (Scott), has a rubber sealing ring to prevent the entry of dirt and
water into the generator.
2. TEST DATA
(a) Cutting-in speed: 750-850 r.p.m. at 6.5 volts.

(b) Output test: 10 amps at 1,250-1,400 r.p.m. at 7 generator volts taken without regulator, on a
calibrated resistance load capable of carrying 12 amps. without overheating.
(c) local field resistance: 2.5 - 2.7 ohms.
3. ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
Inspection of Commutator and Brushgear
Every 12,000 miles remove the commutator end cover (or bracket) and check that the brushes move freely in
their holders, cleaning if necessary. The commutator must be clean and free from oil or dirt, and should have
a polished appearance. If it is dirty, clean it with a dry fluff-free cloth. If the commutator is very dirty moisten
the cloth with petrol. Be careful to refit the brushes in their original positions in order to retain their bedding.
When reassembling, position the rubber seal between the cover and the yoke and carefully tighten the fixing
screws.
4. SERVICING
(a) Testing in position to locate fault in charging circuit.
In the event of a fault in the charging circuit, adopt the following procedure to locate the cause of trouble
(i) Check that the generator and regulator unit are connected correctly. The generator terminal 'D' should be
connected to the control box terminal 'D' and generator terminal 'F' to control box terminal IF
(ii) Remove the cables from the generator terminals 'D 'and 'F' and connect the two terminals with a shore
length of wire.
(iii) Start the engine and set to run at normal idling speed.
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(iv) Connect the negative lead of a moving coil voltmeter, calibrated 0-10 volts, to one of the generator
terminals and connect the positive lead to a good earthing point on the generator yoke or engine. Reverse
voltmeter connections on negative earth machines.
(v) Gradually increase the engine speed, when the voltmeter reading should rise rapidly and without
fluctuation. Do not allow the voltmeter reading to rise above 10 volts and do not race the engine in an attempt
to increase the voltage. It is sufficient to run the generator up to a speed of 1,000 r.p.m. If there is no reading,
check the brush gear, as described in (vi) below. If there is a low reading of approximately 3 volt, the field
winding may be at fault, see Para. 4d)If (there is a reading of approximately 1. to 2 volts, the armature winding
may be at fault, see Para. 4 (e).
(vi) Remove the commutator end cover (or bracket) and examine the brushes and commutator. Hold back
each of the brush springs and move the brush by pulling gently on its flexible connector. If the movement is
sluggish, remove the brush from its holder and ease the sides by lightly polishing on a smooth file. Always
replace brushes in their original positions. If the brushes are worn so that they do not bear on the commutator,
or if the brush flexible is exposed on the running face, new brushes must be fitted.
Test the brush spring tension with a spring scale. The correct tension is 12-15 oz. and new springs must be
fitted if the tension is low.
If the commutator is blackened or dirty, clean it by holding a petrol-moistened cloth against it whilst the
armature is slowly rotated.
Re-test the generator as in (v) above. If there is still no reading on the voltmeter, an internal fault is indicated
and the complete unit should be replaced. Alternately the unit can be dismantled, see Para. 4 (b) for internal
examination.
(vii) If the generator is in good order, restore the original connections. Connect control box terminal 'D' to
generator terminal 'D' and control box terminal 'F' to generator terminal 'F'. Proceed to test the control box as
described in SECTION L-3 Part A.
(b) To Dismantle
When fitted to Sunbeam motor cycles:
(i) Disconnect the generator connections.
(ii) Unscrew the two cover securing screws and remove the cover and sealing ring.
(iii) Lift the brushes and wedge them in the raised position by means of the springs.
(iv) Unscrew the two countersunk -headed bolts. The complete yoke assembly can now be withdrawn, leaving
the armature in position.
(v) To remove the brushgear plate from the yoke, remove the two insulated brushes from their holders and
unscrew the two earthing screws.
(vi) Take out the armature fixing bolt (left hand thread), and withdraw the armature. Be careful not to damage
the machined surface on-which the oil seal rests.
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Dismantled view of generator (Sunbeam type)
When fitted to Scott motor cycles:
(i)Disconnect the generator connections.
(ii) Unscrew the two through bolts and gently pull the commmutator end bracket away from the yoke.
(iii) Lift. the brushes and wedge them in the raised position by means of the springs. The yoke assembly can
now be removed from the drive housing.
(iv) To remove the brushgear plate from the yoke, remove the two insulated brushes from their holders and
unscrew the two earthing screws.
(v) To remove the armature from the machine, the drive housing must be •removed from the engine. When
the drive housing has been removed, the driving flange will be exposed. Unscrew the armature fixing bolt from
the centre of the driving flange and press the armature out of the ball bearing.
(vi) The commutator and drive end brackets are not of Lucas manufacture and for information regarding oil
seal and bearing replacement, refer to the manufacturer's instruction book.
(c) Commutator
Examine the commutator. If it is in good condition, it will be smooth and free from pits or burned spots. Clean
with petrol-moistened cloth. If this is ineffective carefully polish with a strip of very fine glass paper while
rotating the armature. To remedy a badly worn commutator, mount the armature in a lathe, rotate at high
speed and take a light cut with a very sharp tool. Do not remove any more metal than is necessary "or the
purpose of skimming the commutator on sunbeam armatures it will be necessary to use a mandrel to ensure
concentricity. On no account must the machined oil-sealing face be gripped in the chuck of the lathe.
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(d) Field Coils

Remove the nut securing the end of the field coil lead to the yoke, and measure the resistance of the field
coils by means of an ohm-meter. If this is not available, connect a 6-volt battery and an ammeter in series
with the field coils by connecting to the 'F' "terminal and the end of the field coil lead. The ammeter reading
should be approximately 2.3 amperes. No reading on the ammeter indicates an open circuit in the field
winding.
To check for earthed coils, connect a mains test lamp between the 'F' terminal and the yoke, with the end of
the field coil lead removed from the yoke. If the bulb lights, there is an earth fault occurring in the field winding.
In either case it will be necessary, by checking the field coils individually, to determine which is the faulty coil.
Unless a replacement generator is available, a faulty field coil must be replaced, but this should only be
attempted if a wheel-operated screwdriver and pole shoe expander are available. The pole shoe expander is
specially necessary to ensure that there will not be ai,, air gap between the pole shoe and the inner face of the
yoke.
To replace the field coils, proceed as follows:

(i) Loosen the grub screw at the back of the terminal marked 'F' on the terminal block and pull the coil lead
clear of the yoke.
(ii) Unscrew the pole shoe retaining screws by means of the wheel-operated screwdriver.
(iii) Draw the pole shoes and field coils out of the yoke and lift off the coils.
(iv) Fit the new coils over the pole shoes and place them in position inside the yoke. Take care to ensure that
the taping of the field coil is not trapped between the pole shoe and the yoke.
(v) Locate the pole shoes and field coils by tightly tightening the pole shoe retaining screws. Insert the pole
shoe expander, open to its fullest extent and tighten the screws. Remove the expander and give the screws a
final tightening with the wheel-operated screwdriver. Lock the screw in position by caulking.
(e) Armature
The testing of the armature winding requires the use of a volt drop test or a growler. If these are not available,
the armature should be checked by substitution. No attempt should be made to machine the armature core or
to true a distorted armature shaft.
(f) Reassembly
Reassembly of the generator is a reversal of the operations described in paragraph 4 (b).
5. GENERATOR POLARITY
All replacement generators are despatched from the Works suitable for immediate use on positive earth
systems.
If a generator has been incorrectly connected on the motor cycle and its polarity has become reversed, then it
must be re-polarized.
To do this, fit the generator to the motor cycle but do not at this stage connect the cables to the 'D' and 'F'
terminals, Temporarily connect a length of wire to the battery positive terminal and hold the other end of this
wire in contact with generator terminal 'F' for a few seconds only. This serves to re-polarize the generator; the
temporary connection can now be removed and the original cables connected to 'D' and 'F' terminals.
The practice of closing the cut-out points to reverse the generator polarity is not recommended as this method
allows a high initial surge of current from the battery to pass through the armature, which can damage the
windings, insulation, etc., and result in a decreased service life of the machine.
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Sunbeam Service Sheet No. 1

Subject: To prevent breakage of the rear engine mounting damper plate (Model S.7)
Date: September 1948
(This Sheet supersedes Sunbeam Service Sheet No. 1 dated December 1947)
To obviate the possibility of the Engine Mounting Damper Plate breaking in the vicinity of the lug attachment bolts,
reinforcement plates are fitted to all models after Engine Number S7-712. These plates have the effect of laminating the
damper plate and should be fitted to all earlier models.
To Fit the Plates

Remove the petrol tank and the plate attachment bolts E and replace the two distance pieces by the four reinforcement
plates C, noting that these are fitted with the bevel away from the damper plate. Unscrew nut M and take off cap L and
washer and spring K.
Slacken the nuts on the clip bracket and holding the friction disc F in position slide the bracket along the frame top tube
until the damper plate just touches the friction disc.
Replace the bolt H and the distance piece J and position the damper plate D so that the distance piece is located
centrally in the hole in the damper plate. Note that the bolt holes in the damper plate are elongated to allow movement.
Refit the washer and spring H, cap L, and nut M, tightening the latter until the cap is locked against the distance piece
J.
Tighten the nuts in the clip bracket starting with the lower nut to ensure that the tongue A is firmly held.
It is important that this procedure is followed carefully, particularly in connection with the positioning of the damper plate
against the friction disc and the centralizing of the distance piece J. Incorrect assembly of the damper mechanism may
result in fracturing of the damper plate.
After reassembly it is essential that the engine mounting is readjusted. Should it be necessary to move the clip bracket
O to obtain correct clearance between the tongues A and the rubber buffers N the nuts on the bolts E should first be
slackened so that the clearance of the distance piece in the hole in the damper plate is not affected.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Adjustment of Engine Dampers (Models S7 and S8)
Date: September 1951
The engine suspension of this model incorporates flexible mountings which absorb engine
vibration. It is essential that the damper fittings be correctly adjusted when the unit is
refitted to the frame. Furthermore if maximum efficiency is to be maintained, the damper
clearances must be checked by means of a feeler gauge, and if necessary adjusted every
1,000 miles.
The damper plate at the top rear of the engine carries two horizontally opposed torque
reaction buffers. The clearance between each of these buffers and the damper plate must be
.015" to .020", giving an overall clearance of .030" to .040".
*Two more buffers are situated on either side of the base of the crankcase. The clearance
between each of these buffers and the corresponding stops on the down tube must be.015"
to.020".
Slotted washers .010" thick, part number 89-4412 are provided for fitting between the
down tube and the head of the crankcase buffer stop, to compensate for wear on the buffer.
When fitting new buffers, clearances may be increased to the correct setting by taking down
the face of the buffer with fine emery cloth.
TO CHECK THE CLEARANCES, forcibly tilt the engine in each direction, checking the
clearance between each buffer and its stop.
Slacken the torque reaction buffer clip and centralise the buffer so that the limit of
movement in each direction is taken up simultaneously on both top and bottom buffers.
Tighten the nuts.
*NOTE:
On later models, stops are fitted in place of the rubber buffers in the crankcase and
adjustable buffers are fitted in the frame.
To adjust this mounting, undo the buffer locknut and rotate the buffer until the correct
clearance is obtained.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
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Subject: The rear suspension Rebound Spring assembly (Model 5.7)
Date: July 1948
A heavier rebound spring, Part No. 89-4069, is available and is being fitted as standard on models
in current production. The heavier spring reduces the tendency for the suspension to "bottom"
when the machine is used over bad road surfaces and is interchangeable with the lighter spring
fitted to early models.
To Fit the Spring

Slacken the rear mudguard and rear sprindle pinch bolts, raise the mudguard, unscrew and
withdraw the rear wheel spindle, and take out the wheel.
Remove the chromium plated top cap from the right-hand rear suspension bracket and take out
the silencer bolt. This bolt also acts as a pinch bolt for the suspension column.
Uncouple the drive shaft at the splined sleeve and from the gearbox. Disconnect the brake rod.
Supporting the worn drive unit, tap out the suspension column from the bottom of the bracket
with the aid of a suitable soft drift.
Slacken the pinch bolt on the left-hand suspension unit, remove the top cap, and supporting the
wheel spindle bracket, drive out the column from the bottom of the bracket with the aid of a
suitable soft drift.
Each unit can now be removed in turn. Grip the top and bottom sleeves and press them together to
compress the springs and to disengage the unit from the bracket. It will be noted that the rebound
springs are mounted on a set of washers, two of which become surplus on fitting the heavier
springs.
To reassemble
First place the washers in position in the following order. The felt washer 89-4076 in the bottom of
the sleeve followed by the spacing washer 89-4061, rubber washer 89-4060, spacing washer 89-
4061, leather washer 89-4063 and finally thrust washer 89-4062, this is the thicker of the three
steel washers.
The remainder of the reassembly is carried out in the reverse order to that for dismantling. When
reassembling the suspension column make certain that the slots for the pinch bolts are in line with
the pinch bolt holes before attempting to replace the bolts.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Conversion of Gear Ratios (all models)
Date: Revised and reprinted February 1950
Conversion of the gear ratios is effected by changing the rear drive worm and worm wheel. For solo work,
Worm Part No. 89-5521 and Wheel Part No. 89-5520 giving gear ratios of 5.3, 6.5, 9.0 and14.5 should be
used. For sidecar work Worm Part No. 89-5536 and Wheel Part No. 89-5535 giving gear ratios of 6.1, 7.4,
10.0 and 16.6 should be used.
In each case the worms and wheels are paired up before, issue from the factory, and it is therefore essential
that these components are fitted as pairs.
To change the worm and wheel

Undo the rear mudguard stay pinch bolts and raise the hinged portion of the mudguard. Unscrew and
withdraw the rear wheel spindle (left-hand thread) and take out the rear wheel. Disconnect the rear brake
lever by removing the nut from the cam spindle (A, Figure 2). Uncouple the universal joint by unscrewing the
knurled nut on the shaft, making a special note of the positions of the universal joint forks.
The complete worm drive unit should now be removed from the frame. To do this remove the chromium-
plated top cap from the right-hand rear suspension bracket and take out the silencer bolt. This bolt also acts
as a pinch bolt for the suspension column. Supporting the worm drive unit, drive out the suspension column
from the bottom of the bracket using a suitable soft drift.
Grip the top and bottom spring sleeves and press them together to compress the springs and to disengage
the unit from the bracket. Withdraw the complete assembly from the frame.
The rear cover plate which is also part of the offside rear suspension system is attached to the worm drive
housing by six studs and one bolt on early models, and seven studs and one bolt on later models. The bolt is
also an oil level plug for the worm drive where no separate level plug is provided. Remove the oil from the
drive by removing the bolt or drain plug and unscrew the nuts. Take off the cover plate.
To remove the worm

Take off the universal joint, remove the split pin and unscrew the nut from the front end of the
housing. Withdraw the coupling flange (A, Figure 1). Undo the four nuts and remove the rear end cover B
followed by the washer and spacing shim C. Draw the worm shaft from its housing. It may be necessary to tap
the front end of the shaft sharply with a hide or wooden mallet to facilitate removal. Remove the rear bearing
housing D and the inner race of the front bearing E from the shaft.
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Take out the worm wheel (B, Figure 2) together with its inner and outer races, the coupling dog E and distance piece
F. Hold the worm wheel firmly and tap the coupling dog smartly with the hide or wooden mallet to drive out the outer
race. Reverse the coupling dog and repeat this procedure driving out the inner race D.
Fig. 2
It will have been noted that packing shims are fitted to both the worm and wheel and it is of the utmost
importance that the worm and wheel are correctly aligned by replacing these shims when the new
components are fitted.
Carefully note the positions of the shims and oil baffle plate. Clean and preserve them for subsequent re-
assembly.
Re-assembly
This is carried out in the reverse order to that of dismantling. Replace all shims in their original positions to
ensure correct alignment of worm and wheel. Rapid wear and noisy transmission will result if the alignment is
incorrect. Refill with oil.
After assembly it must be possible to turn the drive using the fingers only, on the universal Joint flange on the
worm shaft.
After the initial test run, check the tightness of all nuts on the worm drive cover.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Replacement of the Camshaft, Rockers
and Valve Springs (Model S.7)
Date: July 1948
To prevent excessive wear on the Camshaft and Rockers, these parts have been re-designed, and the
modified components are now available.
The camshaft Part No. 89-350 is replaced by Camshaft Part No. 89-379 which has Cams with a smaller base
circle.
Rockers Part No. 89-362 are replaced by Rockers Part No. 89-381 and the replacement Camshaft and
Rockers must be used in conjunction with the new lighter Valve Springs. These Springs bear an inspection
mark in the form of a dab of yellow paint which enables them to be distinguished from the original springs.
To fit the parts

Remove the petrol pipe and take off the petrol tank. Disconnect the low tension lead at the distributor, take the
sparking plug cover from the engine and after disconnecting the plug lead, take off the distributor cover.
Disconnect the speedometer drive on top of the gearbox and after disconnecting the battery take off the
control box container, it is not necessary to separate the boxes or to
disconnect the lighting harness, as this is long enough to allow the boxes to be
placed on top of the saddle, but the lead to the rear light should be broken at
the connector inside the control box.
Take off the cylinder head cover after removing the three securing nuts. Mark
the distributor body and the cylinder head with a scribed line so that the
distributor can be replaced in the same position. Release the two nuts and
withdraw the distributor, remove the cover plate
immediately below the distributor body.
Remove the sparking plugs and gently turn the engine over until the pistons
are at top dead centre in which position they must remain throughout the fitting
operation. This can best be done by removing the louvred inspection cover on
the gearbox when the top dead centre position will be seen to be marked on
the flywheel, this should be lined up with the indicator.
Now unscrew the bolt and take off the camshaft sprocket. Fig. 1
Unscrew the four nuts which hold the rocker shaft brackets in position. The rocker assembly complete with
baffle plate can now be lifted off bodily and if the rocker shaft brackets do not slide freely over the studs they
should be gently prised up with a screwdriver, taking care not to damage the aluminium cylinder head.
Take off the cap A, Figure 1, at the front end of the cylinder head by removing the two fixing nuts. This will
reveal the hexagon head of the bolt B which retains the camshaft locating thrust washer C. Unscrew this bolt,
keeping the camshaft from turning by inserting a piece of soft metal between the cam flank and the side of the
cam chamber as shown at D. The camshaft can now be drawn out from the rear.
Dismantle the rocker assembly, making a careful note of the disposition of the various components in order to
ensure correct re-assembly, Figure 2.
Replacement of the valve springs can best be carried out at this stage. Replace the two fixing brackets on
the bare rocker spindle and bolt the assembly in position on the cylinder head, check that the
pistons are at T.D.C. and remove the valve end caps.
STEWART ENGINEERING
To remove the valve springs a 6" length of % inch diameter rod

should be obtained. Insert the rod through each plug hole in turn
in such a manner that it rests underneath the head of the exhaust
valve, thus preventing the valve falling when pressure is applied
to the valve spring.
Next take the large double-ended spanner from the tool kit and
place this, from the nearside of the engine, underneath the rocker
spindle so that its open end bears on the edges of the valve
spring collar. Pressure can now be applied to the collar and
spring using the rocker spindle as a levering point thus
compressing the spring and allowing the valve cotters to be
removed. Release the pressure and take off the valve spring and
valve collars.
Fig. 2
To remove the inlet valve springs use the same procedure as for the exhaust valve springs, but as a straight
rod passed through the plug hole will not be satisfactory in arresting the movement of the valves when
pressure is applied to the valve collars, it will be found necessary for the rod to be suitably shaped so that it
will bear on the valve head.
The new springs can be fitted by this same method, care must be exercised, however, or damage to the
sparking plug inserts may result.
After fitting the new springs remove the bare rocker shaft from the cylinder head and re-assemble with the
new rockers, Figure 2, then mount the assembly on the cylinder head, replacing the baffle plate. Note that the
notches on the rocker shaft must engage with the three long studs in the cylinder head. Now securely tighten
the rocker bracket nut taking care that the washer is in position under the nut on the offset part of the bracket.
Check that the pistons are at top dead centre and turn the cam shaft until the
driving peg hole is vertically above the camshaft centre. Now take the camshaft
sprocket and engage it in the chain in such a position that the driving peg in the
sprocket is in line with the peg hole in the end of the camshaft (i.e. vertically
above the centre hole in the sprocket), then slide the peg into the hole. Replace
the sprocket securing bolt and securely tighten. It will greatly assist the fitting of
the sprocket if the inspection cover is removed and the tensioner blade pulled
back, Figure 3.
With the camshaft driving sprocket set as described in the previous paragraph it
will be seen that the lower hole in the sprocket, immediately below the centre, is
vacant. This hole is for the driving dog on the distributor. Fit the paper washer
on the distributor flange and then carefully assemble the distributor so that the
Fig. 3 peg enters the hole in the sprocket. Now set the distributor as it was before, by
matching the marks scribed on the cylinder head before dismantling. Replace the cover below the distributor,
and adjust the tappet clearances.
Before the rocker cover can be replaced the webs must be cut away to give clearance to the modified rockers,
Figure 4. This operation can be carried out using a suitable file.
STEWART ENGINEERING
Fig. 4
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Motor Cycle Service Tools Date: Revised February 1952
DESCRIPTION COMPRISING PARTS PART NUMBER NETT PRICE
Extractor for Flywheel,

Layshaft coupling &
Wormshaft Flange
coupling 89-9100 12/-
Extractor Body 89-9101 9/-
Jack Screw 89-9102 3/-
ALL
MODELS Flywheel Nut Spanner
and Tommy bar 89-9103 5/-
89-9104 14/-
Valve Spring Compressor
Clutch Assembly Tool,
complete 89-9109 19/8
Jack Screw* 89-9102 3/-
Spider 89-9110 7/6
Cross Member Attachment 89-9111 3/6
Stems with Tommy bars -
2 per set, each 89-9112 2/9
Circlips, 2 per set, each 89-9115 ld
Rear suspension
dismantling &
assembly tool 61-3222 9/
Fork Leg Extractor 61-3009 4/
9/-
Fork Top Nut Spanner 61-3001
S.8 Fork Oil Seal Holder Tool 61-3005 14/-
Fork Oil Seal Extractor 61-3006 10/-
ONLY Fork Oil Seal Assembly Tool 61-3007 4/-
Fork Leg Bottom Nut Spanner 61-3003 9/-
Fork Leg Assembly Tool 61-3076 41/-
* This tool is common to both 89-9100 and 89-9109.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING
Sunbeam Service Sheet No. 6a

Subject: Sunbeam Cycle Service Tools
Date: August 1956
Supersedes all previous issues
DESCRIPTION PART NO. RETAIL PRICE

£ s d
Extractor for Flywheel, Layshaft Coupling,
and Wormshaft Coupling, complete 89-9100 16 6
Comprising: Extractor Body 89-9101 12 5
Jack Screw 89-9102 4 2
Clutch Assembly Tool, complete
89-9109 1 7 1
Comprising: Jack Screw 89-9102 4 2
Spider 89-9110 10 5
Cross Member Attachment 89-9111 4 11
Stems, with Tommy Bars (2 per set) 89-9112 3 9 each
Circlips (2 per set) 89-9115 1/2
each
Flywheel Nut Spanner
89-9107 5 6
Tommy Bar 89-9108 1 5
Valve Spring Compressor
61-3340 19 3
Rear Suspension Dismantling & Assembly Tool
61-3222 12 4
Fork Leg Dismantling & Assembly Tool 61-3350 13 9
Fork Top Nut Spanner (S8 only) 61-3005 12 4

Fork Oil Seal Holder Tool (S8 only)
61-3005 19 3
Fork Oil Seal Extractor (S8 only)
61-3006 13 9
Fork Oil Seal Assembly Tool (S8 only)
61-3007 5 6
Fork Leg Bottom Nut Spanner (S8 only) 61-3003 12 4

Valve Guide Assembly Punch
61-3487 13 9
Tap for Dynamo Bolt, L.H., 3/8" dia.
61-3462 6 11
Tap for Rear Spindle Hole, L.H., 3/4" dia. 61-3649 18 2
Die for Rear Spindle, L.H., 3/4" dia. 61-3480 1 0 0
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Distributor Repairs (All models)
Date: December 1956 (supersedes all prey. sheets)
The Distribute supplied with Sunbeam Motor-Cycles is manufactured by Messrs. Joseph Lucas Ltd., to whom
it should be forwarded for servicing.
The Driving Dog, Part No. 89-419, Driving Dog Securing Pin, Part No. 89-414, Distributor Shaft Oil Seal, Part
No. 89-424 and Thrust Washer, Part No. 89-471, are Sunbeam components, and should be removed before
the Distributor is returned to the manufacturer. Failure to take this precaution may mean that the Distributor is
returned without these parts.
To assemble these components to a new Distributor, first fit the Oil Seal with its metal face towards the
Distributor Body, using a hollow drift to drive it home. Fit the steel Thrust Washer to cover the open rubber
face of the Oil Seal and then place the Driving Dog in position on the Distributor Shaft.
With the Distributor flange set in a horizontal position rotate the shaft until, as seen from the Distribute end,
the rotor keyway is exactly at 10.30 o'clock, and the external terminal is on the left-hand side.
Without disturbing this setting, rotate the Driving Dog until the projecting tooth is at 12 o'clock. The Distributor
Shaft should then be drilled with a 3/32" diameter drill, using the holes in the Driving Dog as a guide. This hole
should be reamered with a 1/8” helical tapered reamer, the tapered pin hammered in and its small end tiveted
over.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Timing Chain Tensioner (S7 Engine)
Date: May 1949
To prevent wear in the Cylinder Head and to reduce the timing chain load, the tensioner blade has been
modified.
The new tensioner provides a larger area of contact with the cylinder head casting, and should be fitted to all
machines undergoing major overhaul.
Small quantities of chain tensioners of the modified type will be supplied free of charge on request to the
Service Department, Sunbeam Cycles Ltd., Birmingham, 11.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Sidecar Connections (Models S.7 & S.8)
Date: None shown
SIDECAR CONNECTIONS
Both models utilise the same front frame connection underneath the tank, the parts required to connect with
the chassis member being:
3 - 1766 Ft Stay connector
2C - 5/8 Slotted Nut
3 - 1049 Washer
35 - 714 Split pin
REAR FRAME CONNECTION

S.7 models up to Frame No. S7-2501 and S.8 models up to Frame No. S8-101 require the stud and bracket
as illustrated (Figure 1). The model can be identified by the position of the tapped hole in the corner formed by
the frame members.
S.7 AND S.8 MODELS

All models after Frame Nos. S7-2502 and S8-102 utilise the single connector as shown in Figure 2. In this
case the tapped hole is situated higher up the rear member.
STEWART ENGINEERING
4th POINT CONNECTION

This requires the removal of one domed nut holding the N/Side Crankcase buffer, in its place is fitted 3-
1768 connector with bolt C2-109 and Nut EA-82.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Oil Pressure Switch (S.7 & S.8 models)
Date: No date shown
To prevent premature failure of the oil switch, due to overheating, it has now been modified and an extension
piece utilised which projects the switch into the cooling air stream.
On these models fitted with a switch direct on the head -or with a plain plug fitted in place of the switch, the
new extension should be fitted so that the switch is at the lowest position.
In addition, it will be necessary to modify the plug cover in accordance with the drawing below.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Timing Chain Tensioner fitted to Engines with S.8 Prefix
Date: July 1951
To overcome premature failure of the tensioner and spring, the complete assembly has been redesigned. The
modified components can be fitted to all engines bearing the S.8 prefix.
The complete engine unit must first be removed from the frame and the gearbox and clutch detached from the
engine.
Take off the timing cover and remove the half time gear, camshaft sprocket and existing chain tensioner blade
and spring.
Bend back the lock washer and remove the existing tensioner blade pivot pin and replace with the new
washer and pin No. 89-116. Ensure that the lock washer is bent over the stud hexagon and the flat on the
crankcase.
Remove the nut and spring washer from the end cover stud immediately below the pivot pin (marked "X" in
drawing overleaf) and extract the stud. Replace with the new stud 89-136 and replace the original nut and
spring washer.
Remove the inspection plug and fibre washer from the side of the crankcase.
Feed the new chain tensioner blade 89-117 on to the pivot pin and insert the bush 89-118.
The retaining clip 89-119 can now be fitted over the end cover stud and pivot pin and secured by nut
1B - 5/16" and spring washer N 566.
Re-assemble the half time gear, camshaft sprocket and chain following the timing procedure given in the
Instruction Manual.
Unscrew the two (2) round head screws and take off the cover and fibre washer from the new steady
assembly.
Slacken off the '/4" bolt (marked "Y" in drawing overleaf) and screw the assembly into the crankcase using the
fibre washer originally removed from the inspection plug.
Using a spanner on the flats provided, secure the steady assembly in position.
Turn the engine until either of the exhaust valves is partly open then tighten bolt "Y" securely.
Replace the steady cover and large fibre washer, making sure that the two (2) small fibre washers are fitted
under the heads of the two (2) round head screws.
The engine unit can now be replaced in the frame in accordance with the directions given in the Instruction
Manual.
Complete assembly No. 89-138.
STEWART ENGINEERING
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Timing Chain Tensioner fitted to Engines with S.7 Prefix
Date: April 1952
To overcome premature failure of the tensioner and spring, the complete assembly has been redesigned. The
modified Chain Tensioner Conversion Set complete, Part number 89-165, can be fitted to all engines bearing
the S.7 prefix. For engines bearing the S.8 prefix see Sunbeam Service Sheet No. 11.
The complete engine unit must first be removed from the frame and the gearbox and clutch detached from the
engine.
Take off the timing cover and remove the half time gear, camshaft sprocket and existing chain tensioner blade
and spring.
Bend back the lock washer and remove the existing blade pivot pin and replace with the new lock washer and
pin No. 89-116. Ensure that the lock washer is bent over the stud hexagon and the flat on the crankcase.
Remove the nut and spring washer from the end cover stud immediately below the pivot pin (marked "X" in
drawing overleaf) and extract the stud. Replace with the new stud 89-136 and replace the original nut and
spring washer.
Remove the inspection cover and washer from the side of the crankcase.
Feed the new chain tensioner blade 89-117 on to the pivot pin and insert the bush 89-118.
The retaining clip 89-119 can now be fitted over the end cover stud and pivot pin and secured by nut 1B - 5/16"
and spring washer N 566, as shown in scrap section "AA"
Re-assemble the half time gear, camshaft sprocket and chain following the timing procedure given in the
Instruction Manual.
Unscrew the two (2) round head screws and take off the cover and fibre washer from the new steady
assembly.
Slacken off the 1/4" bolt (marked “Y” in drawing overleaf) and fit the assembly into the crankcase using the two
screws originally removed from the inspection cover to secure it in position.
Turn the engine until either of the exhaust valves is partly open then tighten bolt "Y" securely.
Replace the steady cover and large fibre washer, making sure that the two (2) small fibre washers
are fitted under the heads of the two (2) round head screws.
The engine unit can now be replaced in the frame in accordance with the directions given in the
Instruction Manual.
Complete assembly No. 89-165.
STEWART ENGINEERING
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: New Part Numbers
Date: December 1956
To assist in accounting new Part Numbers have been allocated to certain Sunbeam Components. The new
part numbers should be used for all future orders.
OLD NEW
PART NO. PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
FS. 106/5D Toolbox Lid Screw 89-4307
Cylinder Barrel Stud Nut 21-5103
1 - 5/16"
1B -7/16" Plunger Column Retaining Nut O/S 21-5105
1B-2BA Adjusting Locknut 21-5160
Engine Mounting Bracket Castle Nut 89-7037
2B - 3/8"
Swivel Lug Axis Pin Nut (T/Mover) 21-5314
2-3/4"
1
Slotted Nut /4" B.S.F. 21-5302
2C -1/4"
2C -5/16” Nut 21-5303
Front Stay Connecting Lug Slotted Nut 21-5308
2C - 5/8"
Duffer Pins 21-5613
3-1/4" x 3/4"
Bolt 21-5670
3 - 5/16" X 3/4"
- 5 21-5454
/16" B.S.F. Bolt
3 5/16" X 7/8"
3 - 1/4" X 13/4" Silencer Tail Pipe Pinch Bolt 21-5620
3 - 5/16" X 11/8' Bolt 21-5666
3 - 5/16" X 11/8" H/Bar Bracket Bolt (Chrome) 21-566
Footrest Spindle Pinch Bolt 21-5457
3 - 5/16" x 11/4"
3 - 5/16" X 17/8" Saddle Bolt 21-5671
Bolt 21-5674
3 - 5/16 x 23/4"
Bolt 21-5675
3 - 5/16” x 3"
3 - 3/8” X 15/8” Clamping Bolt N/S (89-4070) 21-5720
3 - 3/8” X 13/4" Rear Spindle Clamp Lug Bolt (89-4073) 21-5720
Frame Stretch Bracket Bolt 21-5724
3/8" x
3- 21/4"
Air Cleaner Elbow Fixing Bolt 21-5612
3B -1/4" X 7/8"
Air Cleaner Pinch Bolt 21-5617
3B - 1/4" x 11/4"
3B- 5/16" x 7/8" Starter Pulley Fixing Bolt 21-5454
Footrest Crank Pinch Bolt 21-5666
313- 5/16" X 11/8"
STEWART ENGINEERING
K/S. Pedal Bolt (89-3203) 21-5668

3B- 5/16" X 13/8“
3B- 5/16" x 31/4" Valve Chest Cover Fixing Bolt 21-5466
3 (Daimler) B.S.A. Bolt 21-5507
3B- /8" X 7/8"
3 " 3 "
3B- /8 X /4 Bolt 21-5712
3 5
3B- /8" X 1 /8" B.S.F. Bolt 21-5720
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Crankshaft Front Main Bearing (S7 and S8 Engines)
Date: January 1954
To eliminate the possibility of premature failure of the Crankshaft Front Main Bearing under certain conditions,
a roller bearing is now used to support the crankshaft instead of the ball bearing previously employed.
The new bearing, Part No. 86-199, can be fitted in place of the earlier type without any modification except
that, as the bearing is of the single lipped type, the crankshaft must be shimmed to reduce end play.
The outer race should be seated properly into the crankcase and the remainder of the bearing assembled on
to the crankshaft. Assemble the crankshaft and rear bearing housing, then check the clearance between the
rear bearing and the crankshaft by means of feeler gauges. This clearance should be .004 - .007 in. and if it
exceeds this the crankshaft must be removed and shims inserted between the bearing inner race and the
crankshaft to reduce the crankshaft end play to the desired limits.
Shims 86-5636 (.003 in.), 86-1736 (.005 in.) and 86-1737 (.007 in.) are available for this purpose.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Kickstarter Quadrant and Return Spring Replacement
Date: May 1954
First ensure that the gears are in the neutral position. Remove the Toolbox, Kickstarter Lever, Footchange
Lever and Gear Indicator.
Remove the propellor shaft coupling bolts and allow the shaft to hang down. Undo the nut from the rear
engine mounting under the gearbox. Detach the rear engine damper complete from the top tube.
Remove the eight screws round the edge of the gearbox side cover plate, but do not touch the nuts which
secure the quadrant stop pin and the cam plate centre.
Move the cover plate complete with the kickstarter and footchange mechanism as far as it will go towards the
left hand frame tube. This is accomplished by carefully tapping the kickstarter and gearchange shafts
alternately.
Raise the gearbox sufficiently to allow the gearbox cover plate with its attached mechanism to be withdrawn
completely from the gearbox, over the frame tube. The kickstarter shaft can now be removed from the cover
and the spring or quadrant replaced. The quadrant is a tight fit on the shaft and should be removed and
replaced with the aid of a hollow drift. Do not omit to replace the stop plate on the back face of the quadrant.
NOTE: In the event of the kickstarter worm requiring replacement, this can only be done by removing the
gearbox from the engine and dismantling.
Re-assemble the kickstarter shaft into the cover plate. Check that the gears have not been disturbed from the
neutral position and re-assemble the cover plate and attached mechanism into the gearbox. The kickstarter
quadrant must be fed on to the worm on the mainshaft by rotating the kickstarter worm shaft as the cover
plate is pushed home.
The engine mounting, damper and propellor shaft can now be replaced, together with the footchange and
kickstarter levers.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Valve Guide Fitting
Date: June 1956
The current type of Valve Guide, Part No. 89-762, which supersedes 89-307, has the upper end
tapered off to a knife edge to prevent excess oil passing down the guide.
To avoid damaging this when fitting the guides to the cylinder head, a Valve Guide Assembly Punch, Part No.
61-3487, should be used.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Fitting 50 Watt Dynamo to 1947/8 S.7 Engine
Date: June 1956
In 1949, a larger Dynamo was introduced to provide a higher output. It is mounted on the front of the engine in
the same way as the earlier type, the armature being secured by a left-hand threaded bolt,
but a dowel has been added to give a more positive drive.
The small Dynamo, Part No. 89-280 will no longer be supplied as a spare, being superseded by the later
pattern, Part No. 89-288. To fit this to a 1947 or 1948 machine, the only alteration necessary is to
drill the end of the crankshaft to a depth of 5/16" using a standard 3/16" dia. drill, as shown in the drawing
below, and to obtain and fit a Dowel, Part No. 89-289. The angular location is not important. The small Hallite
Gasket, Part No. 89-287, is still used between the dynamo casing and the crankcase.
Dowel Hole
.187” - .188”dia.
5/16” Depth
Owing to the higher output, a different Voltage Regulator, Part No. 89-9076, will be required. The fixing holes
in the Control Box have to be re-drilled to suit.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
STEWART ENGINEERING

Subject: Crankshaft Regrinding
Date: December 1956
If the overall wear on the crankpins or rear journal exceeds .002", or if the bearing surfaces have been
damaged, it will be necessary to re-grind the crankshaft to the dimensions given below.
CRANKPINS:
First Re-grind:
Grind the crankpins 'A' to 1.6150"/1.6145" with a face radius at 'B' of .125"/.129". Mark the tops of the webs -
.010". Use undersize bearing shells, Part No. 89-695.
Second Re-grind:
Grind the crankpins 'A' to 1.6050"/1.6045" with a face radius at 'B' of .125"/.129". Mark the tops of the webs -
.020". Use undersize bearing shells, Part No. 89-81.
REAR JOURNAL:
Grind the journal 'C' to 1.4895"/1.4890" with a face radius at 'D' of .125"/.129". Mark the side of the web -
.010". Use undersize bearing bush, Part No. 89-89.
SERVICE DEPARTMENT
PRODUCT
DATA SHEET
SYNTOL SRT-141 WORM DRIVE OIL

CLASSIC MOTORCYCLE OIL FOR EXCEPTIONAL PERFORMANCE
APPLICATIONS
Syntol SRT-141 Worm Drive Oil is a synthetic fluid specifically developed for use in the Sunbeam S7 & S8 Final Drive. This
product provides far superior lubrication than conventional mineral oils in its intended application.
Important: SRT-141 does not mix and should not be mixed with conventional mineral oils or other synthetics. Please see
flushing procedure below when charging unit for first time.
FEATURES
¾ Purpose designed to provide excellent corrosion protection (ASTM D665, procedure B pass) and demulsibility
characteristics (ASTM D1041)
¾ Allow thermally stable operation at temperatures in excess of 200°C
¾ Free of sulphur, chlorine and lead based additives
¾ Remains homogenous from below its pour point to temperatures in excess of 250°C
¾ The anticipated service lifetime of this grade is substantially in excess of 10,000 hours at 100°C in enclosed gear units,
the performance allowing for extended drain intervals and, in some cases, for operation as a “Fill for Life” lubricant
FLUSHING PROCEDURE
When changing from mineral oil to SRT-141 Worm Drive Oil the following procedure should be followed:
¾ Run unit until the mineral oil is warm, then drain as fully as possible, particular attention being paid to areas where oil
may be trapped
¾ Flush the unit with the minimum quantity of SRT-141 Worm Drive Oil by operating under no load, then drain the unit
whilst the fluid is warm. Repeat if necessary
¾ Seals, etc., should be inspected and if deteriorated then replaced
¾ Seals previously exposed to mineral oils may shrink when exposed to SRT-141 Worm Drive Oil, and therefore it may be
advantageous to replace them
¾ Fill system with SRT-141 Worm Drive Oil. It is useful to inspect the lubricant after one or two days in use to make sure
that it is free of extraneous materials. Contamination with significant quantities of other lubricants can, in some cases,
lead to sludging, foaming and other problems
MATERIALS COMPATIBILITY
Polyurethane based elastomers, leather, cork, asbestos, paper and board should be avoided. Common seal and gasket
materials are unaffected by SRT-141 Worm Drive Oil. Nitrile Rubber (NBR), Fluoro-Silicone or Vinyl-Methyl Polysiloxane (Q) is
recommended especially where high temperatures are involved.
TYPICAL PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS (DOES NOT CONSTITUTE A SPECIFICATION)
Test Method Value:

Viscosity Grade: SAE J306 140
Density @ 15°C ASTM D1298 0.998
Viscosity @ 40°C ASTM D445 148.0 cSt
Viscosity @ 100°C ASTM D445 24.0 cSt
Viscosity Index ASTM D2270 195
Pour Point ASTM D97 <-30°C
Appearance Visual Clear & bright
Colour Visual Amber
This data sheet and information it contains is considered to be accurate at the date of printing. No warranty or representation, expressed or implied, is made as to the accuracy or completeness of the data and
information contained in this publication. It is the User’s obligation to evaluate and use products safely and within the scope advised in the data sheet and to comply with all applicable laws and regulations. No
statement made in this publication shall be construed as a permission, recommendation or authorisation given or implied to practice any patented invention without a valid licence.
The Seller shall not be responsible for any loss or damage resulting from any hazards or risks identified in the data sheet and which are associated with petroleum products concerned (provided that this
disclaimer shall not affect any statutory rights of the Buyer of the petroleum products concerned). Syntol Racing Lubricants. Rev: 1 09/01/09

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SUNBEAM S7 and S8 Tech Info

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STEWART ENGINEERING

THE SUNBEAM SPECIALISTS

Data Sheet No. 2A

Date: June 1992

There are 2 sheets to this subject

A few notes on rewiring a Sunbeam:

Data Sheet No. 2B

Date: June 1992

Data Sheet No. 3

Adjustment of Engine Damper Snubbers

Data Sheet No. 4

Date: June 1992

NO SPARK AT PLUGS... no discharge on ammeter when ignition on

Data Sheet No. 5

AMMETER SHOWING NO CHARGE

electrical firms have one and will check it for you.

Data Sheet No. 6

See A for GOOD, B for BAD.

Data Sheet No. 7

Loss of power, poor performance, overheating, etc..

Data Sheet No. 8

Data Sheet No. 9

Data Sheet No. 10

Data Sheet No. 11

Data Sheet No. 12

Data Sheet No. 13

Small wonder that electrics overwhelm the amateur

Good contact with the fabric of the machine is essential, and

Dynamo voltage is raised by feeding a portion of the output

This was sometimes known as the constant current system, and

As a dynamo's speed increases so its magnetic field distorts. By

Adjustment of the third brush dynamo's output is achieved by moving

With a fully charged battery and the switch set to 'C' a

The third brush is the offset one, and it has no partner

The problem was that output catered for average

Then came a solution which could adjust itself to any

If the resistor has been damaged, or if the points

When the gaps are set the output can be adjusted.

Data Sheet No. 14

Data Sheet No. 15

LUBRICATION CRITERIA FOR

Data Sheet No. 15B

DIPSTICK OIL LEVEL

You may be surprised at your new oil economy.

REAR DRIVE OIL LEVEL

MULTIGRADES are NOT recommended!

Data Sheet No. 16

Data Sheet No. 17

Note: All sizes BSF unless stated otherwise

Data Sheet No. 18

HOW THE CARBURETTOR WORKS

HINTS AND TIPS

PARTS TO TUNE UP WITH

TUNE UP IN THE FOLLOWING ORDER

1st. MAIN JET with throttle in position I (fig. 5).

2nd. PILOT JET (fig. 5) with throttle in positions 2 and 5.

3rd. THROTTLE CUT-AWAY with throttle in position 3 (fig. 5).

4th. NEEDLE with throttle in position 4 (fig. 5).

5th. FINALLY go over the idling again for final touches.