6.5L Engine

2002 Chevrolet Chevy Express G1500
2002 ENGINE Engine Mechanical 6.5L (Unit Repair) - Chevy Express & Savana
2002 ENGINE
Engine Mechanical 6.5L (Unit Repair) - Chevy Express & Savana
SPECIFICATIONS
FASTENER TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
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Saturday, March 28, 2009 9:14:19
9:14:02 PM Page 1 © 2005 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC.
Fig. 1: Fastener Tightening Specifications (1 Of 2)

Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
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Saturday, March 28, 2009 9:14:02 PM Page 2 © 2005 Mitchell Repair Information Company, LLC.
Fig. 2: Fastener Tightening Specifications (2 Of 2)

ENGINE MECHANICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Fig. 3: Engine Mechanical Specifications (1 Of 4)

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VACUUM PUMP SPECIFICATIONS
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Fig. 7: Vacuum Pump Specifications

SEALERS, ADHESIVES, AND LUBRICANTS
Fig. 8: Sealers, Adhesives, and Lubricants

COMPONENT LOCATOR
DISASSEMBLED VIEWS
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Fig. 9: Cylinder Head and Components

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Fig. 10: Cylinder Block and Components

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Fig. 11: Front Cover, Oil Pan, and Components

Fig. 12: Fuel Injection System Components

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ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
The 6.5L V-8 diesel engine identification is located at the top left rear of the engine block.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE LIFT BRACKET REMOVAL
1. Remove the drive belt tensioner retaining bolt.

2. Remove the drive belt tensioner.
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Fig. 13: Remove Drive Belt Tensioner & Retaining Bolt

3. Remove the vacuum pump retaining bolts.

4. Remove the vacuum pump.
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Fig. 14: Vacuum Pump & Retaining Bolts

5. Remove the right accessory bracket retaining bolts.

6. Remove the right accessory bracket retaining nuts.
7. Remove the right accessory bracket.
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Fig. 15: Removing Right Accessory Bracket, Retaining Nuts & Bolts
8. Remove the left accessory/lift bracket retaining bolts.

9. Remove the left accessory/lift bracket retaining nut (if equipped).
10. Remove the left accessory/lift bracket.
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Fig. 16: Removing Left Accessory/Lift Bracket, Retaining Nuts & Bolts
DRAINING FLUIDS AND OIL FILTER REMOVAL
1. Remove the oil pan drain plug.

2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove the oil filter.
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Fig. 17: Oil Pan Drain Plug & Oil Filter

4. Remove the left and right coolant drain plugs.

5. Drain the engine coolant.
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Fig. 18: Identifying Coolant Drain Plug

ENGINE FLYWHEEL REMOVAL
1. Remove the flywheel retaining bolts.

2. Remove the outer retainer (if equipped).
3. Remove the flywheel.
4. Remove the inner retainer (if equipped).
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Fig. 19: Identifying Flywheel, Inner & Outer Retainer & Retaining Bolts
OIL FILL TUBE REMOVAL
1. Remove the oil fill tube retaining nuts.

2. Remove the oil fill tube.
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Fig. 20: Remove Oil Fill Tube & Retaining Nuts

OIL LEVEL INDICATOR AND TUBE REMOVAL
1. Remove the oil level indicator tube retaining bolt.

2. Remove the oil level indicator tube.
3. Remove the O-ring seal.
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Fig. 21: Remove Oil Level Indicator Tube, Retaining Bolt & O-Ring Seal
INTAKE MANIFOLD REMOVAL
Thermostat Housing
1. Remove the upper thermostat housing retaining bolts from the lower thermostat housing.
2. Remove the upper thermostat housing (1).
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3. Remove the thermostats (2) with the seals (3).

4. Remove the thermostat seals (3) from the thermostats (2).
5. Remove the heater flow control valve.
6. Remove the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor (6) from the lower thermostat
housing.
Fig. 22: Upper Thermostat Housing, Thermostats, Seals & ECT Sensor
7. Remove the fuel bleed valve retaining nut.

8. Remove the fuel bleed valve.
9. Remove the fuel bleed valve mounting bolt.
10. Loosen the thermostat bypass hose retaining clamps.
11. Remove the lower thermostat housing retaining bolts.
12. Remove the lower thermostat housing.
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13. Remove the gaskets.

14. Remove the thermostat bypass hose.
15. Remove the thermostat bypass hose retaining clamps.
16. Remove the thermostat bypass hose fitting.
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Fig. 23: Lower Thermostat Housing, Fitting, Clamps & Bolts

Intake Manifold
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1. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector.

2. Remove the IAT sensor.
Fig. 24: Remove IAT Sensor

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3. Disconnect the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor electrical connector.

4. Remove the MAP sensor retaining bolts.
5. Remove the MAP sensor.
6. Remove the gasket.
Fig. 25: Remove MAP Sensor, Retaining Bolts & Gasket

7. Disconnect the glow plug relay electrical connectors.

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Fig. 26: Glow Plug Relay Electrical Connectors

8. Remove the glow plug relay retaining nuts.

9. Remove the glow plug relay.
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Fig. 27: Remove Glow Plug Relay & Nuts

10. Disconnect the vacuum harness hose connectors.

11. Remove the vacuum harness.
12. Remove the vacuum solenoid retaining bolt(s).
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Fig. 28: Remove Vacuum Harness & Vacuum Solenoid Bolts

13. Remove the vacuum solenoid(s).

14. Remove the vacuum solenoid mounting bracket retaining nuts.
15. Remove the vacuum solenoid mounting bracket.
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Fig. 29: Remove Vacuum Solenoid, Bracket & Nuts

16. Remove the upper intake manifold retaining bolts.

17. Remove the upper intake manifold.
18. Remove the O-ring from the upper intake manifold.
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Fig. 30: Remove Upper Intake Manifold, Bolts, O-Ring & Gaskets
20. Loosen the crankcase depression regulator (CDR) valve vent hose clamp at the CDR valve.
21. Remove the CDR valve vent hose from the CDR valve.
22. Remove the CDR valve vent hose clamp from the CDR valve vent hose.
23. Remove the CDR valve from the valve rocker arm cover. Pull upward while
twisting/rocking CDR valve.
24. Remove the fuel injection feed pipe mounting bracket retaining nuts.
25. Remove the fuel injection feed pipe mounting brackets.
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26. Remove the fuel injection feed pipes.
Fig. 31: CDR Valve Vent, Hose & Clamps

27. Remove the intake manifold bolts.

28. Remove the intake manifolds.
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Fig. 32: Lower Intake Manifold, Bolts & Gaskets

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ENGINE WIRING HARNESS ASSEMBLY REMOVAL
Tools Required
J 41515-A Glow Plug Socket

J 41712 Oil Pressure Switch Socket
1. Disconnect all engine wiring harness connectors.

2. Disconnect the engine wiring harness from all attachment points.
3. Remove the engine wiring harness.
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Fig. 33: Identifying Engine Wiring Harness

4. Using the J 41515-A , remove the glow plugs.
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Fig. 34: Glow Plugs

5. Remove the crankshaft position sensor mounting bolt, if equipped.
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Fig. 35: Crankshaft Position Sensor Bolt (If Equipped)

6. Remove the crankshaft position sensor, if equipped. Twist and pull the crankshaft position
sensor straight out from the front cover, if equipped.
7. Using the J 41712 , remove the oil pressure sending unit (1).
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Fig. 36: Oil Pressure Sending Unit

TURBOCHARGER REMOVAL
1. Loosen the right side exhaust pipe retaining clamps.

2. Remove the right side exhaust pipe.
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Fig. 37: Right Side Exhaust Pipe

3. Loosen the left side exhaust pipe retaining clamps.

4. Remove the left side exhaust pipe.
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Fig. 38: Left Side Exhaust Pipe

5. Remove the turbocharger wastegate bracket retaining bolt.

6. Remove the turbocharger retaining bolts.
7. Remove the turbocharger assembly.
8. Remove the O-ring seal.
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Fig. 39: Turbocharger, Wastegate Bracket, Bolt, Turbocharger Assembly & O-Ring
Seal
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OIL PUMP DRIVE REMOVAL
1. Remove the oil pump drive clamp retaining bolt.

2. Remove the oil pump drive clamp.
3. Remove the oil pump drive.
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Fig. 40: Oil Pump Drive, Clamp, Bolt & Gasket

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EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL - LEFT
1. Remove the left side exhaust manifold bolts.

2. Remove the left side exhaust manifold.
Fig. 41: Left Side Exhaust Manifold & Bolts

EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL - RIGHT
1. Remove the right side exhaust manifold bolts.

2. Remove the right side exhaust manifold.
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Fig. 42: Right Side Exhaust Manifold & Bolts

WATER PUMP REMOVAL
1. Remove the thermostat bypass fitting.
Important: The water pump bolts to the water pump plate from the back. Remove the
water pump and water pump plate together.
2. Remove the water pump and water pump plate retaining bolts.
3. Remove the water pump and the water pump plate.
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Fig. 43: Water Pump, Plate & Bolts

4. Remove the water pump retaining bolts.

5. Remove the water pump.
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Fig. 44: Water Pump, Bolts & Gaskets

FUEL INJECTION PUMP REMOVAL
Tools Required
J 29873 Nozzle Socket

J 29698-B Fuel Line Wrench, 3/4 inch
NOTE: The fuel injection pump is an electronically controlled device.

Handle carefully in order to prevent damage to internal and
external components.
Important: Align timing marks at Top Dead Center (TDC) prior to removing the fuel
injection pump driven gear bolts.
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1. Remove the fuel injection pump driven gear retaining bolts.

2. Remove the fuel injection pump driven gear.
Fig. 45: Fuel Injection Pump Driven Gear & Bolts

3. Loosen the fuel injection pump fuel return hose clamps.

4. Remove the fuel injection pump fuel return hose.
5. Remove the fuel injection pump fuel feed pipe clips at the brackets.
6. Remove the fuel injection pump fuel feed pipe brackets.
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Fig. 46: Fuel Injection Pump Fuel Return Hose, Feed Pipe Clips & Brackets
7. Loosen the fuel injection nozzle to fuel return pipe fuel return hose clamps.
8. Remove the fuel injection nozzle to fuel return pipe fuel return hoses.
9. Remove the fuel return pipe retaining nuts.
10. Remove the fuel return pipe.
11. Using the J 29698-B remove fuel injection pump fuel injection fuel feed pipe fittings.
Do not bend the fuel injection fuel feed pipes.
Cap the fuel feed pipe fittings and the fuel injection pump fittings immediately.
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Fig. 47: Remove Fuel Injection Nozzle, Fuel Return Pipe & Nuts
12. Using the J 29698-B remove fuel nozzle fuel injection fuel feed pipe fittings.
Wear safety glasses to protect against fuel spray.
Use a 30 mm wrench to hold the fuel injection nozzle.
Do not bend the fuel injection fuel feed pipes.
Cap the fuel feed pipe fittings and the fuel injection nozzle fittings immediately.
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Fig. 48: Fuel Nozzle Fuel Injection Fuel Feed Pipe Fittings
13. Remove the three fuel injection pump mounting nuts.
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Fig. 49: Fuel Injection Pump Mounting Nuts

14. Loosen the fuel injection pump fuel feed hose clamps.
15. Remove the fuel injection pump fuel feed hose.
Important: Never rotate the engine with the starter, the starter location engine rotation
fixture, or with the wrench from the front of the engine with the fuel injection pump
removed. The loose fuel pump drive gear could become lodged in the front cover and cause
gear tooth distress and shear the camshaft drive gear. Align the camshaft gear timing marks
before installing the fuel injection pump drive gear.
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16. Remove the fuel injection pump.

Fig. 50: Fuel Injection Pump, Fuel Feed Hose & Gasket
18. Loosen the fuel injection nozzle fuel return hose clamps.
19. Remove the fuel injection nozzle fuel return hoses.
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Fig. 51: Fuel Injection Nozzle Fuel Return Hoses

NOTE: In order to remove or install an injection nozzle, use the J

29873 on the 30-mm portion of the nozzle. Failure to use the 30-
mm hex portion will result in damage to the injection nozzle.
Important: Mark the fuel injection nozzles, in order to return each fuel injection nozzle to
it's original location during installation.
20. Using the J 29873 remove the fuel injection nozzles (1).
Cap the fuel injection nozzle fittings immediately.
Store the fuel injection nozzles in a clean place.
21. Remove the gaskets (2).
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Fig. 52: Fuel Injection Nozzles & Gaskets

CRANKSHAFT BALANCER REMOVAL
Tools Required
J 39046 Crankshaft Hub Remover/Installer
1. Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolts.

2. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
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Fig. 53: Crankshaft Pulley & Retaining Bolts

3. Remove the crankshaft balancer retaining bolt and washer.
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Fig. 54: Crankshaft Balancer Retaining Bolt & Washer

4. Using the J 39046 remove the crankshaft balancer.
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Fig. 55: Removing Crankshaft Balancer

ENGINE FRONT COVER REMOVAL
1. Remove the oil pan to front cover retaining bolts.

2. Remove the front cover to block retaining bolts.
Important: Perform TDC Offset Recovery procedure if the timing chain, timing gears,
engine front cover, crankshaft position sensor, crankshaft or other components affecting the
timing are replaced.
3. Remove the front cover.
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Fig. 56: Front Cover, Oil Pan To Front Cover Bolts & Front Cover To Block Bolts
4. Remove the turbocharger oil feed line.

5. Remove the turbocharger oil feed line fitting.
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Fig. 57: Turbocharger Oil Feed Line & Fitting

TIMING CHAIN WEAR CHECK
Tools Required
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J 7872 Magnetic Base Dial Indicator
1. Attach the J 7872 to the front of the engine cylinder block.

Position the magnetic base dial indicator to allow the plunger to contact the timing
chain.
The magnetic base dial indicator plunger should contact the timing chain centered
between the two sprockets.
2. Using finger pressure on the inside radius of the timing chain, push the timing chain outward
(parallel to the front face of the block) to the maximum deflection.
3. Set the J 7872 to zero.
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Fig. 58: Check Timing Chain Wear Using J 7872

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4. Using finger pressure on the outside radius of the timing chain, push the timing chain inward
(parallel to the front face of the block) to the maximum deflection.
5. Note the deflection of the timing chain (total travel of the magnetic base dial indicator
plunger).
For used parts, the deflection must not exceed 20.3 mm (0.80 in).
For new parts, the deflection must not exceed 12.7 mm (0.50 in).
6. If the deflection exceeds the limit, replace the worn parts. Refer to Timing Chain and
Sprockets Cleaning and Inspection .
TIMING CHAIN AND CAMSHAFT SPROCKET REMOVAL
1. Remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and washer.
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Fig. 59: Camshaft Sprocket Bolt & Washer

2. Remove the fuel injection pump drive gear.
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Fig. 60: Fuel Injection Pump Drive Gear

Important: Do not damage the square bosses of the crankshaft sprocket during removal.
3. Remove the timing chain, camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket assembly.
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Fig. 61: Timing Chain, Camshaft Sprocket & Assembly

4. Remove the fuel injection pump drive gear Woodruff key.

5. Remove the camshaft sprocket Woodruff key.
6. Remove the crankshaft sprocket Woodruff key.
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Fig. 62: Crankshaft Sprocket Woodruff Keys

VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER REMOVAL - LEFT
1. Remove the fuel injection fuel feed pipe bracket retaining nuts.
2. Remove the fuel injection fuel feed pipe brackets.
3. Remove the valve rocker arm cover retaining bolts.
NOTE: Prying on the valve rocker arm cover may cause damage to the
sealing surfaces. Use a block of wood against the side of the
valve rocker arm cover and strike with a hammer in a sideways
direction to shear the RTV sealant.
4. Remove the left valve rocker arm cover.

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Fig. 63: Valve Cover & Bolts

VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER REMOVAL - RIGHT
1. Remove the fuel injection fuel feed pipe bracket retaining nuts.
2. Remove the fuel injection fuel feed pipe brackets.
3. Remove the valve rocker arm cover retaining bolts.
NOTE: Prying on the valve rocker arm cover may cause damage to the
sealing surfaces. Use a block of wood against the side of the
valve rocker arm cover and strike with a hammer in a sideways
direction to shear the RTV sealant.
4. Remove the right valve rocker arm cover.
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Fig. 64: Valve Cover & Bolts

VALVE ROCKER ARM, SHAFT, AND PUSH ROD REMOVAL
1. Remove the valve rocker arm shaft assembly retaining bolts.
Important: Mark the valve rocker arm assemblies, in order to return each assembly to the
original location.
2. Remove the valve rocker arm shaft assemblies.
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Fig. 65: Remove Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly & Bolts
Important: Mark the valve pushrods, in order to return each valve pushrod to its original
location and direction during installation. Each end of the valve pushrods has a different
degree of hardness. The upper end of the valve pushrod is copper colored. A paint stripe
also identifies the upper end of the valve pushrod.
3. Remove the valve pushrods.
CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL - LEFT
1. Remove the left cylinder head bolts (1-17).
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Fig. 66: Identifying Left Cylinder Head Bolts

2. Remove the left cylinder head.

3. Remove the left cylinder head gasket.
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Fig. 67: Identifying Left Cylinder Head & Gasket

CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL - RIGHT
1. Remove the right cylinder head bolts (1-17).
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Fig. 68: Identifying Right Cylinder Head Bolts

2. Remove the right cylinder head.

3. Remove the right cylinder head gasket.
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Fig. 69: Identifying Right Cylinder Head & Gasket

VALVE LIFTER REMOVAL
Important: When removing the valve lifters, place the lifters in an organizer rack. The lifters
must be installed in the same bore from which they were removed.
1. Remove the valve lifter retaining clamp retaining bolts.

2. Remove the valve lifter retaining clamps.
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Fig. 70: Identifying Valve Lifter Clamp & Bolts

3. Remove the valve lifter guide plates.
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Fig. 71: Valve Lifter Guide Plates

4. Remove the valve lifters.
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Fig. 72: Valve Lifters

CAMSHAFT REMOVAL
1. Remove the camshaft thrust plate retaining bolts.

2. Remove the camshaft thrust plate.
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Fig. 73: Camshaft Thrust Plate & Bolts

3. Remove the camshaft thrust plate spacer.
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Fig. 74: Camshaft Thrust Plate Spacer

Important: Pull the camshaft from the engine cylinder block carefully to avoid damage to
the camshaft bearings.
4. Remove the camshaft.
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Fig. 75: Removing Camshaft

OIL PAN REMOVAL
1. Remove the transmission oil cooler line retaining clip retaining nuts.
2. Remove the transmission oil cooler line retaining clip.
3. Remove the oil pan retaining bolts.
4. Remove the oil pan.
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Fig. 76: Oil Pan, & Bolts

5. Remove the seal.
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Fig. 77: Remove Oil Pan Seal

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OIL PUMP REMOVAL
1. Remove the oil pump bolts.

2. Remove the oil pump and drive shaft assembly.
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Fig. 78: Remove Oil Pump, Drive Shaft Assembly & Bolts
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PISTON, CONNECTING ROD, AND BEARING REMOVAL
Tools Required
J 24270 Ridge Reamer
1. Use the J 24270 in order to remove the ridge or the deposits from the upper end of the
cylinder bores.
1.1. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at the bottom of the stroke.
1.2. Place a cloth on top of the piston.
1.3. Perform the cutting operation with the J 24270 .
1.4. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at the top dead center (TDC).
1.5. Remove the cloth and the cuttings.
1.6. Repeat this procedure for each cylinder.
2. Before removing the pistons and the rods, check the pistons and the rods for cylinder
identification numbers.
3. If the pistons are not numbered, use a metal number stamp in order to mark the piston, the
rod and the cap using the following procedure:
Mark the cylinder number, on the bottom of the front section of the piston boss, of
each piston.
Mark the cylinder number on the bearing tang slot side of both the rod and the cap.
Mark the components from the front to the rear, with the engine in an upright position
and viewed from the front.
The left bank is numbered 1-3-5-7, while the right bank is number 2-4-6-8.
Be sure to mark both, the rod and the cap with the correct cylinder number.
Keep the connecting rod and cap together as mating parts.
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Fig. 79: Removing Cylinder Ridge Using J 24270

4. Remove the connecting rod nuts.

5. Remove the connecting rod cap.
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Fig. 80: Remove Connector Rod Cap & Nuts

6. Remove the bearing inserts from the connecting rod.
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Fig. 81: Bearing Insert From Connecting Rod

7. Attach two short pieces of 10 mm (3/8 in) hose to the connecting rod bolts, in order to
protect the crankshaft journal during removal.
8. Push the connecting rod and the piston out of the bore.
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9. After removal, assemble the connecting rod, the cap and the bearings. If reusing the bearing
inserts, keep the inserts in the rods and cap from which they were removed.
Fig. 82: Connecting Rod & Piston

CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL REMOVAL
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Remove the rear oil seal using a small screw driver.
Do not reuse the old seal.
Fig. 83: Rear Oil Seal

CRANKSHAFT AND BEARINGS REMOVAL
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Important: Check the crankshaft bearing caps for location markings. Mark the caps, if
necessary. Return the crankshaft bearing caps to their original locations during assembly.
1. Remove the crankshaft bearing cap bolts.

2. Remove the crankshaft bearing caps.
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Fig. 84: Crankshaft Bearings Caps & Bolts

3. Remove the crankshaft by lifting the crankshaft straight up, in order to avoid damage to the
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crankshaft journals and the thrust flange surfaces.
Fig. 85: View Of Crankshaft

4. Remove the crankshaft bearing inserts. If reusing the bearing inserts, place them in a rack in
order to return the bearing inserts to the original location during assembly.
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Fig. 86: Crankshaft Bearing Inserts

CAMSHAFT BEARING REMOVAL
Tools Required
J 33049 Camshaft Bearing Service Set
1. Remove the rear camshaft plug.
Important: Cam bearings are numbered one through five, from front to rear. The number
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one cam bearing being the largest and the number five cam bearing being the smallest. In
order to allow the tool to remain centered, it is recommended that the number five (Rear)
cam bearing be removed with the tool installed through the front of the block and the
number one bearing (Front) be removed with the tool installed from the rear. This will
allow the guide cone of the tool surface to center itself on the block.
2. Insert the driving bar of the J 33049 with the correct expanding driver into the camshaft
bearing (collet 4 for camshaft bearings one through four, and collet 3 for camshaft bearing
five).
3. Turn the J 33049 until the collet has tightened in the bearing.
4. Push the guide cone against the block and into the first bearing bore in order to center the
tool.
5. Drive the bearing from the block.
6. Repeat this procedure in order to remove the remaining camshaft bearings.
Fig. 87: Using J 33049

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OIL FILTER ADAPTER REMOVAL
1. Remove the oil filter fitting.
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Fig. 88: Oil Filter Fitting

2. Pry out the oil filter bypass valve using a screwdriver.

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3. Remove the oil cooler bypass valve using the following procedure:
3.1. Install a sheet metal screw into the hole in the cup plug.
3.2. Using side cutters or pliers, pry out the cup plug.
3.3. Pry out the oil cooler bypass valve using a screwdriver.
Fig. 89: Oil Cooler Bypass Valve

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ENGINE BLOCK PLUG REMOVAL
1. Remove the engine oil pressure sensor switch.

2. Remove the engine oil cooler line fittings.
3. Remove the block drain plugs.
4. Remove the cup plugs and the block heater.
Fig. 90: Remove Engine Oil Pressure Sensor Switch, Cooler Line Fittings, Block
Heater, Drain Plugs & Cup Plugs
5. Remove the side oil gallery plugs.

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Fig. 91: Remove Side Oil Gallery Plugs

6. Remove the rear oil gallery plugs. An oil gallery plug is located inside the rear main bearing
cap land.
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Fig. 92: Remove Rear Oil Gallery Plugs

PISTON OIL COOLING NOZZLE REMOVAL
Important:
The piston oil nozzles are made of aluminum and are pressed fit into the block. Certain
cleaning solutions can damage the nozzles.
Do not damage the nozzle bore.
Do not damage the cylinder bore or deck surface.
1. Remove the piston oil nozzles (1). Discard the used piston oil nozzles.
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Fig. 93: Remove Piston Oil Nozzles

2. Using a brass drift, drive the piston oil nozzles (1) out of the block. Do not reuse the
nozzles.
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Fig. 94: Remove Brass Drift To Remove Piston Oil Nozzles

ENGINE BLOCK CLEANING AND INSPECTION
You will need a solvent tank large enough to hold the large engine parts, along with various
bristle brushes and a gasket scraper. Whenever you are using cleaning solvents for cleaning parts,
follow the manufacturer's recommendations. If necessary, wear protective clothing. A source of
compressed air will be helpful in the cleaning operations. Wear safety glasses throughout the
cleaning, inspection, and repair process.
The inspection procedure requires precision measuring tools. These include micrometers, cylinder
bore gage, feeler gages, dial indicator set, etc. Perform the inspection work with the proper
method and tools.
Using parts worn beyond the acceptable limits will decrease the performance of the rebuilt
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engine.
1. Clean the block in the cleaning solvent.

2. Clean the block gasket surfaces.
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Fig. 95: Inspect Engine Block

3. Clean the cylinder bores.

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4. Clean the oil galleries and passages.

5. Clean the scale deposits from the coolant passages.
6. Inspect the valve lifter bores for deep scratches and varnish deposits.
7. Inspect the block for cracks. Use the Magnaflux Spot check dye method, or the equivalent.
Inspect the cylinder walls.
Inspect the coolant jackets.
Inspect the crankshaft bearing webs.
8. Inspect the crankshaft bearing bores and caps. All crankshaft bearing bores' inside diameters
should be round and uniform at all the bearing supports.
9. Inspect the area where the crankshaft bearing inserts contact the crankshaft bearing bore.
This area must be free of burrs and scratches.
10. Inspect the engine mount bosses.
11. Inspect the cylinder head gasket mating surfaces for pitting.
12. Inspect the engine block to cylinder head gasket surface area for warping. Use a straight
edge and feeler gage. Replace the block if it is warped more than 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
longitudinally or more than 0.08 mm (0.003 in) transversely.
13. Inspect the camshaft bearings. Replace the camshaft bearings if any of the following
conditions exist:
Scratches
Pits
Loose fit in their bores
14. Inspect the camshaft bearings' inside diameter using an inside micrometer. Refer to Engine
Mechanical Specifications .
CYLINDER BORING AND HONING
Tools Required
J 8087 Cylinder Bore Gage
1. Clean the cylinder bores with a hot water and detergent wash.
2. Using a suitable measuring device, measure the diameter of the cylinder bore. Refer to
Engine Mechanical Specifications .
3. Record the measurements.
4. Using the J 8087 measure the taper and out-of-round of the cylinder bore. Refer to tool
manufacturer's instructions for proper tool operation. Engine Mechanical Specifications .
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Fig. 96: Using J 8087 Measure Taper & Out-Of-Round Of Cylinder Bore
6. Using a finger nail, check the cylinder bore for fine vertical scratches.
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You should not be able to feel a fine vertical scratch.

Fine vertical scratches will not cause excessive oil consumption.
Honing to remove fine vertical scratches is not necessary.
7. Visually check the cylinder bore for smooth, shiny, polished areas through the hone marks.
If present, hone the cylinder lightly with a finish hone.
8. Repeat steps two through seven for the remaining cylinders.
Important: There is only one production standard piston grade size. When using
production standard grade size pistons in all eight cylinder bores, a J is metal stamped in a
single place on the cylinder block oil pan rail (1).
A 0.13 mm oversize production piston is available for in a plant rework of cylinders that do
not meet the production standard specification. An S metal stamped on the pan rail (2) next
to any reworked cylinder identifies that cylinder as production oversize. A J will also be
metal stamped in a single place on the oil pan rail to represent that all remaining cylinders
are production standard.
All service oversize pistons are of the same weight as the production pistons. Using service
oversized pistons will not affect engine balance.
9. Review the recorded measurements to determine the condition of the cylinders. Refer to
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Fig. 97: Oil Pan Rails

10. Hone the cylinders, as required. Hone only those cylinders that require it.
Follow the tool manufacturer's instructions for use.
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Use only clean, sharp stones of the proper grade for the amount of material to be
removed. Dull, dirty stones cut unevenly and generate excessive heat.
When using coarse or medium grade stones, leave sufficient metal to allow all stone
marks to be removed with the fine stones used during the finishing process.
The surface roughness specifications for cylinder bores are:
RA (Minimum) = 0.40 Micro-meter (16 Micro-inch)
RA (Maximum) = 0.90 Micro-meter (32 Micro-inch)
All crankshaft bearing caps must be in place and tightened to the proper torque in
order to avoid distortion of the bores. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications .
Ensure that the specified clearance between pistons, rings, and the cylinder bores is
maintained. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications .
11. Make full strokes of the hone in the cylinder bore.
12. Move the hone up and down at a sufficient speed in order to obtain very fine uniform
surface finish marks in a cross-hatch pattern at the specified angle (45-65 degrees). The
finish marks should be:
Smooth but not sharp
Free from imbedded particles
Free from torn or folded metal
13. Check the measurement at the top, the middle, and the bottom of the cylinder bore
regularly.
Important: Any abrasive material remaining in the cylinder bores will cause premature
wear to the piston rings, cylinder bores, and bearing surfaces.
14. Clean the cylinder bores with a hot water and detergent wash.
15. Clean the dry cylinder bores with a power-driven fiber brush.
16. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the cylinder bores.
CRANKSHAFT AND BEARINGS CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Tools Required
CAUTION: Wear safety glasses to avoid injury when using compressed

air or any cleaning solvent. Bodily injury may occur if fumes
are inhaled or if skin is exposed to chemicals.
MY
1. Using a soft cloth and clean solvent, clean the crankshaft. Do not scratch the crankshaft
bearing journals.
2. Using compressed air, clean the crankshaft oil passages.
3. Using a soft cloth and clean solvent, clean the crankshaft bearing inserts. Do not scratch the
crankshaft bearing inserts.
Fig. 98: Measure Crankshaft Journal Diameter & Taper Using J 7872
4. Inspect the crankshaft for cracks using the Magnaflux Spot-check dye method or the
equivalent.
MY
5. Inspect the crankshaft bearing journals and thrust surfaces for the following conditions:
Scoring
Nicks
Damage caused by lack of lubrication
6. Inspect the crankshaft bearing inserts and thrust surfaces for the following conditions:
Scoring
Nicks
7. Using a suitable measuring device, measure the crankshaft journal diameter and taper in
several places, approximately 90 degrees apart. Refer to Engine Mechanical
Specifications .
The connecting rod and the crankshaft journal sizes are color coded with paint
markings.
Crankshaft journal markings are blue, orange/red, or white.
Connecting rod journal markings are yellow or green.

9. Mount the crankshaft in V-blocks at crankshaft journals one and five.
10. Using the J 7872 measure crankshaft journal runout at crankshaft journal three. Refer to
MY
Fig. 99: Measure Crankshaft Journal Runout At Journal Three Using J 7872
NOTE: The crankshaft bearing and the connecting rod journals are
machined with deep, rolled fillets for strength. Grinding the
crankshaft may disturb the fillets and weaken the crankshaft.
Replace the crankshaft if it is damaged.
NOTE: Do not shim, scrape, or file bearing inserts. Do not touch the
bearing surface of the insert with bare fingers. Skin oil and
acids will etch the bearing surface.
12. Measure the crankshaft bearing clearance.

12.1. Install the crankshaft bearings into the crankshaft caps and engine block.
12.2. Install the crankshaft caps and bolts.
12.3. Tighten crankshaft bolts. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications .
MY
12.4. Using a suitable measuring device, measure the bearing inside diameter (I.D.), in
Specifications .
12.5. Record the measurements.
12.6. Subtract the journal diameter from the bearing inside diameter in order to obtain
the bearing clearance. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications .
Fig. 100: Measure Crankshaft Bearing Clearance

13. Replace damaged/worn crankshaft bearings as required.

MY
If the bearing clearance is not within specifications, replace the bearing. Always
replace both upper and lower bearing inserts as a set.
If a bearing is being fitted to an out-of-round journal, be sure to fit to the maximum
diameter of the journal. If the bearing is fitted to the minimum diameter, interference
between the bearing and the journal will result in rapid bearing failure.
A standard or undersize bearing combination may result in the proper clearance. If the
proper bearing clearance cannot be achieved using standard or undersize bearings,
replace the crankshaft.
The connecting rod and the crankshaft journal sizes are color coded with paint
markings.
Crankshaft journal markings are blue, orange/red, or white.
Connecting rod journal markings are yellow or green.
CRANKSHAFT BALANCER CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CAUTION: Refer to SAFETY GLASSES CAUTION .
1. Using clean solvent, clean the crankshaft balancer.

2. Using compressed air, dry the crankshaft balancer.
3. Inspect the oil seal contact area on the crankshaft balancer shaft for grooving and roughness.
Replace if necessary.
4. Always replace the crankshaft balancer if the crankshaft breaks.
MY
Fig. 101: Inspect Crankshaft Balancer

ENGINE FLYWHEEL CLEANING AND INSPECTION
1. Using clean solvent, clean the flywheel.

2. Using compressed air, dry the flywheel.
3. Inspect the flywheel for loose or improperly installed balance weights (manual transmission
only). A properly installed balance weight should be installed until flush with, or below, the
face of the flywheel.
MY
MY
Fig. 102: Inspect Flywheel Balance Weights

4. Inspect the flywheel for the following:

Pitted surface (manual transmission only) (1)
Scoring or grooves (manual transmission only) (2)
Rust or other surface damage (manual transmission only)
Stress cracks around the flywheel-to-crankshaft bolt hole locations
Loose or improperly positioned ring gear. The ring gear has an interference fit onto the
flywheel and should be positioned completely against the flange of the flywheel
(manual transmission only).
Important: Do not attempt to repair the welded areas that retain the ring gear to the
flywheel plate. Install a new flywheel.
Welded areas that retain the ring gear onto the flywheel for cracking (automatic
transmission only)
Damaged ring gear teeth (4)
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Fig. 103: Inspect Flywheel

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD DISASSEMBLE
Production standard 6.5L pistons are available in one grade size, identified by a J (naturally
aspirated) or JT (turbocharged) ink or metal stamped on the top or bottom of the piston. Also
available is a production oversize piston grade sizes for in-plant rework. Identified by an S
(naturally aspirated) or ST (turbocharged) ink or metal stamped on the top or bottom of the
piston.
MY
1. Remove the piston rings.
Fig. 104: Remove Piston Rings

MY
2. Remove the connecting rod bearing inserts.

3. Using a scribe with a hooked, rounded end, pry out the piston pin retainers.
4. Remove the piston pin. The pin is a full-floating style and should slide from the piston. If the
piston pin is to be reused, place it in a rack so that it may be reinstalled with the original
connecting rod and cap.
5. Remove the piston from the connecting rod.
MY
MY
Fig. 105: Remove Connecting Rod Bearing Inserts, Piston & Pin
PISTON, CONNECTING ROD, AND BEARINGS CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Important: There is only one production standard piston grade size. When using production
standard grade size pistons in all eight cylinder bores, a J is metal stamped in a single place on the
cylinder block oil pan rail (1).
A 0.13 mm (0.005 in) oversize production piston is available for in a plant rework of cylinders
that do not meet the production standard specification. An S metal stamped on the pan rail (2)
next to any reworked cylinder identifies that cylinder as production oversize. A J will also be
metal stamped in a single place on the oil pan rail to represent that all remaining cylinders are
production standard.
All service oversize pistons are the same weight as production pistons. Using service oversize
pistons will not affect engine balance.
MY
Fig. 106: Cylinder Block Oil Pan Rails

Important:
Do not use a wire brush or glass bead blasting.

MY
Use a cleaning solution that will dissolve the carbon deposits.

Remove the carbon in the ring grooves with a ring groove cleaner.
1. Clean the piston, by removing all of the varnish and the carbon deposits.
2. Inspect the piston for the following conditions:
Cracking or wear of the ring lands
Burrs or nicks of the ring grooves
Cracking of the skirts or pin bosses
Cracking of the piston dome (Use Magnaflux Spot-check dye method or the
equivalent)
Scuffing or deep scratches of the piston skirt
Scuffing of the piston bore
Wear of the piston pin retaining ring or the grooves
3. Inspect the connecting rod for the following conditions:

Cracks or nicks on the connecting rod (Use Magnaflux Spot-check dye method or the
equivalent)
Scuffing or scratching of the piston pin bushing
Nicks or scoring of the bearing bore
Bent or twisted rods
4. The connecting rod is not serviceable for the following repairs:

Straightening
Bushing replacement
Connecting rod bearing bore enlargement
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Fig. 107: Inspect Connecting Rod & Piston

PISTON MEASUREMENT
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The piston skirts are barrel-shaped. To accurately determine the piston diameter, the piston must
be measured at a specific gage point.
The piston gage point is 65.33 mm (2.575 in) from the top of the piston.
Fig. 108: Measure Piston

MEASURING PISTON PIN TO PISTON PIN BUSHING CLEARANCE
1. Measure the piston pin to piston pin bushing.

2. Measure the piston pin diameter.
3. Measure the piston pin bushing inside diameter. Use an inside micrometer.
4. Substract the piston pin diameter from the piston pin bushing inside diameter to obtain the
clearance.
5. If the clearance is excessive, replace the piston and piston pin. Piston pins are available only
MY
with new pistons.

6. If the clearance is excessive with a new piston and piston pin, replace the connecting rod.
Piston pin bushings are available only with new connecting rods.
Fig. 109: Measure Piston Pin To Piston Pin Bushing

MEASURING PISTON PIN TO PISTON CLEARANCE
1. Measure the piston pin diameter.

2. Measure the piston pin hole inside diameter. Use an inside micrometer.
MY
3. Substract the piston pin diameter from the piston pin hole diameter to obtain the clearance.
4. If the clearance is excessive, replace the piston and piston pin. Piston pins are available only
with new pistons.
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLE
Tools Required
J 39507 Piston Retaining Ring Installer
1. Install the piston to the connecting rod.

Install the piston with the piston crown indent on the same side as the connecting rod
bearing tang slots.
When installing the piston in the cylinder, the piston crown indent on the top of the
piston must be towards the outside of the cylinder.
MY
Fig. 110: Piston & Connecting Rod

2. Apply engine oil to the surface of the piston pin.

MY
3. Install the piston pin to the piston and the connecting rod.
Important: Piston, piston pin, and connecting rod assembly must be stable (held firmly
with no lateral movement) during piston pin retaining ring installation.
4. Install the piston pin retaining rings, using the J 39507 .

5. Align the open end of the retaining ring toward the bottom of the piston.
6. Use a small screwdriver and start one end of the ring in the groove.
7. Install the J 39507 through the ring and into the piston pin.
Fig. 111: Install J 39507 Through Ring & Into Piston Pin
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8. Press down on the ring with the pin on the tool.

9. Turn the tool-to-seat ring in the groove.
Fig. 112: Inspect Retaining Rings For Proper Assembly

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10. Inspect the retaining rings for proper assembly.

Visually inspect the retaining ring in order to ensure that it is seated in the ring groove.
The opening in an installed retaining ring should face downward, toward the
crankshaft.
11. Measure the piston ring end gap.
12. Measure all rings in their respective cylinders.
MY
Fig. 113: Measure Piston Ring End Gap

13. Measure for ring clearance, using a feeler gage.

14. Inspect the ring fit using the following procedure:
MY
14.1. Fit each second compression ring to the piston on which it is going to be used.
14.2. Slip the outer surface of the second compression ring into the respective piston
ring groove in order to make sure the ring does not bind. If the ring groove causes
binding, dress the groove with a fine cut file. Replace distorted rings.
15. The oil ring is a two-piece ring, consisting of an expander and a scraper ring.
15.1. Install the oil expansion ring in the oil ring groove.
15.2. Install the oil ring over the oil expansion ring.
Fig. 114: Inspect Ring Fit

MY
Important:
When installing the compression rings, ensure that the marked side is facing the top of
the piston.
The top compression ring is a keystone style ring.
While assembling the rings onto the piston, rotate the rings to check for binding.
If binding occurs, inspect the ring grooves for dirt or damage, such as nicks caused by
improper installation.
16. Install the second compression ring.
17. Install the top compression ring.
CAMSHAFT AND BEARINGS CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Tools Required
1. Using a soft cloth and clean solvent, clean the camshaft. Do not scratch the camshaft bearing
journals or lobes.
2. Using compressed air, dry the camshaft.

3. Using a soft cloth and clean solvent, clean the camshaft bearing inserts. Do not scratch the
camshaft bearing inserts.
4. Inspect the camshaft for cracks using the Magnaflux Spot-check dye method or the
equivalent.
MY
Fig. 115: Inspect Camshaft & Bearings

5. Inspect the camshaft for the following conditions:

Scoring (1)
Nicks (1)
Worn camshaft lobes (2)
Damaged sprocket bolt threads (3)
Damaged sprocket pin (4)
6. Inspect the camshaft bearing inserts for the following conditions:

Scoring
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Nicks
7. Inspect the camshaft retainer plate for damage.
Fig. 116: Inspect Camshaft Retainer Plate

8. Using a suitable measuring device, measure the camshaft journal diameter and taper in
Specifications .
9. Measure for a bent camshaft or excessive camshaft runout using J 7872.
9.1. Mount the camshaft in V-blocks at camshaft journals one and five.
9.2. Using the J 7872 Magnetic Base Dial Indicator, measure camshaft journal runout
MY
at camshaft journal three. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications .
Fig. 117: Measure Camshaft Journal Diameter & Taper

10. Replace the camshaft if runout exceeds specifications.
TIMING CHAIN AND SPROCKETS CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Important: Perform TDC Offset Recovery procedure if the timing chain, timing gears, engine
front cover, crankshaft position sensor, crankshaft or other components affecting the timing are
replaced.
1. Inspect the sprockets for chipped teeth and wear.

2. Inspect the reluctor wheel four square bosses for nicks or dings.
MY
Handle the reluctor wheel carefully.

Damage to the machined bosses will directly effect engine timing.
3. Inspect the timing chain for damage and wear.

4. Replace worn sprockets and chains.
5. Inspect the timing gears on the fuel injection pump for broken teeth and wear.
VALVE ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT DISASSEMBLE
Important: Store all reusable components in an exact order in order to return them to the
original locations during assembly.
1. Remove the valve rocker arm retainers.

1.1. Insert a screwdriver into the valve rocker arm shaft bore and break off the end of
the retainers.
1.2. Pull the valve rocker arm retainers out with pliers.
2. Remove the valve rocker arms from the valve rocker arm shaft.
3. Mark the valve rocker arms and return the valve rocker arms to the original location during
assembly.
Fig. 118: Remove Valve Rocker Arms & Retainers

VALVE ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT CLEANING AND INSPECTION
1. Clean the parts in solvent.
MY
Wear protective safety glasses and gloves.

Blow-dry the parts with compressed air.
2. Inspect the valve rocker arms and shafts at the mating surfaces, in order to ensure that they
are smooth and without scoring damage.
3. Inspect the valve rocker arm areas which contact the valve stems and the sockets which
contact the valve pushrods. These areas should be smooth and without damage or wear.
4. Determine if the valve pushrods are bent by rolling the pushrod on a flat surface.
5. Replace the pushrod if the pushrod is bent.
6. Inspect the ends of the valve pushrods for scoring or roughness.
7. Make sure the oil passages in the valve pushrods are clear.
8. Replace any damaged parts.
VALVE ROCKER ARM AND SHAFT ASSEMBLE
Important: Lubricate the valve rocker arms with engine oil before installing.
Install valve rocker arms to their original locations.
1. Install the valve rocker arms to the valve rocker arm shaft.
2. Install new valve rocker arm retainers using the following procedure:
2.1. Center the valve rocker arms on the corresponding holes in the valve rocker arm
shaft.
2.2. Install the retainers with a drift of at least 13 mm (1/2 in) diameter.
Fig. 119: Install Valve Rocker Arms & New Retainers

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VALVE LIFTERS AND GUIDES CLEANING AND INSPECTION
1. Clean the parts in solvent.

Wear protective safety glasses and gloves.
Blow-dry the parts with compressed air.
2. Inspect the valve lifter guide plates and clamps for damage.
Important: Some engines may have both standard and 0.010 inch oversize valve lifters.
The oversize lifter will have a 10 etched on the side. Stamped on the cast pad next to the
lifter bore and on the top rail of the cylinder case above the lifter bore will be the letters
OS.
3. Inspect the valve lifter rollers for fatigue or pitting. Replace the valve lifter as an assembly.
4. Replace any damaged parts.
CYLINDER HEAD DISASSEMBLE
Tools Required
J 8062 Valve Spring Compressor This engine uses a 39 mm (1.53 in) Stellite faced exhaust valve
and an intake valve that is 46 mm (1.81 in). Intake and exhaust valves with oversize stems are
available in 0.09 mm (0.03 in) and 0.39 mm (0.153 in) oversize.
1. Remove the valve keys using the following procedure:

1.1. Compress the valve springs with the J 8062 .
1.2. Remove the valve keys.
1.3. Remove the J 8062 .
MY
Fig. 120: Exploded View Of Valve, Spring & Retainers

2. Remove the following components:

The caps from the intake valves
The rotators from the exhaust valves
The shields
The O-rings
The valve springs with the dampers and the shims
3. Remove the exhaust valve seals.

4. Remove the valves.
5. Place the valves in a rack and return the valves to the original positions during assembly.
6. Drive out the prechambers with a small nylon or brass drift inserted through the injection
nozzle hole. The prechambers use high temperature super alloy materials. Replace the
prechambers with the correct part number for this series of engine.
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CYLINDER HEAD CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Tools Required

J 8089 Wire Brush
J 9666 Valve Spring Tester
J 8001 Dial Indicator Set
1. Clean the carbon from the combustion chambers, using the J 8089 .
2. Clean the valve stems and heads on a wire wheel.
3. Clean the carbon and old gasket from the cylinder head gasket surface.
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Fig. 121: Clean Carbon From Combustion Chambers

4. Clean the valve guides using a valve guide cleaner.

5. Inspect the cylinder head for the following conditions:
Cracks in the exhaust ports
Cracks in the combustion chambers
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Fig. 122: Checking For Cracks
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External cracks to the coolant chamber

Gasket surfaces should be free of damage
Fig. 123: Inspect Cylinder Head For Warpage

6. Inspect the valves for the following conditions:

Burning
Pitting
Warpage
7. Grind or replace the valves as needed.

8. Check the valve stems for scoring or excessive wear. Stems must not be bent.
MY
9. Inspect the valve seats for pitting or other damage. Grind or reface as needed.
10. Inspect the exhaust valve rotators. The rotators should rotate smoothly without binding.
11. Inspect the cylinder head for warpage. When the warpage is greater than 0.15 mm (0.006
in) longitudinally, or 0.08 mm (0.003 in) transversely, replace the cylinder head.
NOTE: Resurfacing the cylinder head is not recommended due to the

extremely close valve to piston clearances.
12. Cylinder head thickness (valve rocker arm cover gasket rail to head gasket surface) must be
at least 97.87 mm (3.853 in).
13. Inspect the prechambers for cracks.
Replace any prechambers with facial cracks longer than 5 mm (0.20 in).
Service prechambers are available in standard and 0.25 mm (0.010 in) oversize.
MY
Fig. 124: Inspect Prechambers For Cracks
MY
NOTE: Excessive oil consumption and component damage may result

from excessive valve stem to guide bore clearance. Insufficient
clearance may cause noisy and sticky functioning of the valve
and disturb the smoothness of the engine.
14. Measure the valve stem to guide bore clearance using the following procedure:
14.1. Attach the J 7872 on one side of the cylinder head valve rocker arm cover gasket
rail.
14.2. Zero in the J 8001 .
14.3. Observe the dial indicator movement while moving the valve from side to side
(crosswise to the head). The dial indicator measurement must be taken just above the
valve guide bore.
14.4. Drop the valve head about 1.6 mm (0.063 in) off the valve seat.
14.5. Move the stem of the valve from side to side using light pressure to obtain a
clearance reading. If the clearance exceeds specifications, it will be necessary to ream
the valve guide bores for oversize valves.
MY
Fig. 125: Measure Valve Stem To Guide Bore Clearance

15. Measure the valve spring tension using the following procedure:
15.1. Using the J 9666 , compress the valve springs to the specified tension.
15.2. Check the valve spring height. Valve springs should be replaced if not within
specification. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications .
MY
16. The cylinder head bolts were installed with a thread locker. Use a power wire brush to
clean the entire head bolt.
17. Replace the head bolt if any of the following conditions exist:
Pitting or pulling of the threads
Pitting of the shaft
Excessive corrosion or stripping of the head
Fig. 126: Compress Valve Spring To Specified Tension

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VALVE GUIDE REAMING/VALVE AND SEAT GRINDING
1. Ream the valve guides for oversize valves if the clearance exceeds the specifications.
2. Ream the valve guide bores for the oversize valves as necessary.
3. Reconditioning the valve seats is very important. Recondition valve seat after reaming the
valve guide bores or installing the new valve guides.
The valves must seat perfectly for the engine to deliver optimum power and
performance.
Cooling the valve heads is another important factor. Good contact between each valve
and its seat in the cylinder head is necessary to ensure that the heat in the valve head is
properly carried away.
Regardless of what type of equipment is used, it is essential that the valve guide bores
are free from carbon or dirt to ensure the proper centering of the pilot in the guide.
The valve seats should be concentric to within 0.05 mm (0.031 in) total indicator
reading.
Reface pitted valves on a valve refacing machine in order to ensure the correct
relationship between the head and the stem. Replace the valve if the stem is warped, or
if the stem shows signs of excessive wear. Replace the valve if the edge of the head is
less than 0.79 mm (0.031 in) thick after grinding.
Several different types of equipment are available for reconditioning valves and valve
seats. Use the manufacturers recommendations of equipment to attain the proper
results.
MY
Fig. 127: Ream Valve Guide Bores

CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLE
1. Install the prechambers.

1.1. Align the locating notch. The prechamber will fit correctly in only one position.
1.2. Using a 32 mm (1.25 in) socket, tap the prechamber into place.
2. Measure the valve protrusion for all valves (Valve protrusion is the distance the valve
extends past, or is recessed into, the cylinder head surface.)
2.1. With the plunger resting on the surface of the cylinder head, set the gage to zero.
2.2. Move the plunger over each valve and note the reading on the gage.
If the valve is recessed too deep, the valve pushrod can bottom out in the lifter
and hold the valve open. When the valves are left open, the valve spring seat
tension and cylinder compression are lost.
Maximum protrusion is negative 0.86 mm (negative 0.034 in) to negative 1.22
MY
mm (negative 0.048 in) for both intake and exhaust valves. The valves are
recessed.
3. Measure the prechamber installed depth.
4. The prechamber should be flush to a maximum of 0.05 mm (0.002 in) protrusion.
Measure at two or more points on the prechamber where the prechamber seats on the
head gasket shield and sealing ring.
Measure the difference between the flat surface of the prechamber and the flat surface
of the cylinder head.
The prechamber must not protrude out of the cylinder head more than 0.05 mm (0.002
in).
The prechamber must not recess into the cylinder head.
MY
Fig. 128: Install Prechambers

MY
5. Lubricate the valve stems with engine oil.

6. Install the valves.
7. Install the valve spring shims.
8. Install the exhaust valve stem seals.
Install the valve stem seals over the valve stems.
Seat the valve stem seals against the valve guides.
9. Install the valve springs and dampers.

10. Install the valve spring shields.
11. Install the intake valve spring caps.
12. Install the exhaust valve spring rotators.
13. Install the valve stem O-ring seals and valve stem keys.
13.1. Compress the valve spring using the J 8062 Valve Spring Compressor.
13.2. Install a new O-ring seal on the valve stem's lower groove.
13.3. Apply a small amount of grease to the upper valve stem groove.
13.4. Assemble the two valve keys to the upper valve stem groove. Ensure that the
keys seat properly in the groove.
13.5. Release the valve spring compressor, ensuring that the key stays in place.
13.6. Repeat this procedure for each remaining valve.
MY
Fig. 129: Valves & Components

14. Measure the valve spring installed height of each valve spring.
14.1. Using a narrow thin scale, measure the valve installed height from the spring seat
in the cylinder head to the top of the valve spring cap. Refer to Engine Mechanical
Specifications .
14.2. If the valve spring measurements exceed specifications, inspect for the following
conditions:
Proper assembly
Excessive wear at the valve keys
Worn retainers
Worn valve key area on the valves
14.3. Install or remove valve spring seat shims between the spring and the cylinder
head to obtain the desired measurement.
MY
NEVER shim the spring to give an installed height less than the specified amount.
Fig. 130: Measure Valve Spring Installed Height

OIL PUMP DISASSEMBLE
MY
1. Remove the oil pump drive shaft retainer.

2. Remove the oil pump drive shaft.
MY
Fig. 131: Remove Oil Pump Drive Shaft & Retainer

3. Remove the roll pin.

4. Remove the pressure regulator valve.
5. Remove the spring.
Fig. 132: Remove Roll Pin, Pressure Regulator Valve & Spring
Important: If the pick-up tube and screen is not damaged, do not remove it. A new pick-up
tube and screen assembly will be required for reassemble.
The tube is press-fit into the cover and is hard to remove without damaging it.
MY
6. Remove the pick-up tube and screen assembly if necessary.

7. Remove the oil pump cover bolts.
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Fig. 133: Remove Pick-Up Tube, Screen Assembly & Oil Pump Cover Bolts
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8. Remove the oil pump cover.

9. Remove the spacer plate.
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Fig. 134: Remove Oil Pump Cover & Spacer Plate

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10. Mark the gear teeth in order to install the pump gears with the same gear teeth index.
11. Remove the drive gear.
12. Remove the shaft.
13. Remove the driven gear.
14. Remove the idler shaft.
MY
Fig. 135: Remove Drive Gear, Shaft, Driven Gear & Idler Shaft
OIL PUMP CLEANING AND INSPECTION

MY
1. Clean the oil pump components in solvent.
2. Dry the components with compressed air.

3. Inspect the oil pump for the following:
Scoring, damage or casting imperfections to the housing (3)
Damage gears (chipping, galling, or wear) (2)
Scoring on the top of the gears (1)
Damaged or scored gear shaft (5)
Damaged bolt threads
Worn driveshaft housing bore
Damaged or sticking pressure relief valve (minor imperfections may be removed with
a fine oil stone).
Collapsed or broken pressure relief valve spring
4. If the oil pump is to be reused, install a NEW pressure relief valve spring.
5. During oil pump installation, install a NEW oil pump driveshaft retainer.
MY
MY
Fig. 136: Inspect Oil Pump & Components

OIL PUMP ASSEMBLE
1. Install the driven gear.

2. Install the idler shaft.
3. Install the drive gear with the shaft. Align the marks made during disassembly.
4. Install the spacer plate.
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Fig. 137: Install Driven Gear, Idler Shaft & Spacer Plate
5. Install the oil pump cover.

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Fig. 138: Install Oil Pump Cover

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NOTE: Refer to FASTENER NOTICE .
6. Install the oil pump cover screws.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
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Fig. 139: Install Oil Pump Cover Screws

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7. Install the pressure regulator valve.

8. Install the spring.
9. Install the roll pin.
Fig. 140: Install Pressure Regulator Valve, Spring & Roll Pin
10. Install the pick-up tube and screen assemble if necessary. Align the tube in the same location
as removed from.
11. Prime the oil pump by filling the cavity with clean engine oil.
12. Inspect the oil pump.
Turn the drive shaft by hand and check for smooth rotation.
MY
If the oil pump does not rotate smoothly, check for proper assembly.
If necessary replace the oil pump assembly.
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Fig. 141: Install Pick-Up Tube & Screen Assembly

ENGINE FRONT COVER CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Important: Perform TDC Offset Recovery procedure if the timing chain, timing gears, engine
front cover, crankshaft position sensor, crankshaft or other components affecting the timing are
replaced.
1. Clean the old sealer from the sealing surfaces.

2. Inspect the front cover for cracks and damage to the sealing surfaces.
VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER CLEANING AND INSPECTION
1. Clean the parts in solvent, removing all sludge and varnish.

3. Inspect for the following conditions:
Bent or damaged sealing flanges
Deterioration of the rubber grommets or parts
OIL PAN CLEANING AND INSPECTION
1. Clean the parts in solvent, removing all sludge and varnish.

3. Inspect for the following conditions:
Bent or damaged sealing flanges
Damage to the oil pan caused by rocks
Loose fit of the oil pan baffle
Stripped oil pan drain plug opening threads
INTAKE MANIFOLD CLEANING AND INSPECTION
1. Remove the MAP sensor from the intake manifold (if equipped).
2. Remove the IAT sensor from the intake manifold (if equipped).
3. Clean the old pieces of gasket from the gasket surfaces.
4. Clean the soot deposits from the intake manifold.
5. Inspect the manifold for the following conditions:
Cracks
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Broken flanges
Gasket surface damage
EXHAUST MANIFOLD CLEANING AND INSPECTION
1. Clean the sealing surfaces.

2. Clean the soot deposits from the exhaust manifold.
3. Inspect the manifolds for the following conditions:
Cracks
Broken flanges
Sealing surface damage
WATER PUMP CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Important:
The water pump used with the serpentine belt system rotates counterclockwise (CCW).
Replace the pump only with the proper part number or engine overheating may occur,
causing damage to the engine.
Do not immerse the water pump in solvent. Solvent will dissolve the lubricant supply for the
permanently lubricated bearings, causing premature bearing failure.
1. Clean the old gasket off of the gasket surfaces on the water pump and the water pump
backing plate.
2. Replace the water pump if the following conditions exist:
Excessive end play in the pump shaft (0.20 mm/0.008 in end play is normal).
Pump drive shaft will not rotate smoothly (binding or roughness).
If the pump has been dry for a while it may be difficult to turn the shaft on the
first try.
If the pump does not turn smoothly after a few attempts, replace the water pump.
Coolant leakage at the water pump drain hole.
Damage to the water pump sealing surface.
Damage to the water pump pulley.
3. Replace the water pump backing plate if the following condition exists:
Damage to the water pump backing plate sealing surface.
Damage to the oil fill tube seal flange.
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FUEL INJECTION PUMP CLEANING AND INSPECTION
NOTE: The fuel injection pump is an electronically controlled device.

Handle carefully in order to prevent damage to internal and external
components.
1. When handling fuel system components, follow these guidelines:

Keep all of the openings on the fuel injection pump capped at all times.
Do not allow any cleaning solvents to enter the fuel injection pump during cleaning.
Keep the fuel injection nozzle openings capped at all times.
2. Clean the fuel injection pump and components with clean solvent.
3. Clean the exterior of the fuel injection nozzles only in clean solvent. Do not use a wire
brush.
4. Clean the fuel injection lines in clean solvent.
5. Using compressed air, dry the fuel injection nozzles. Wear protective safety glasses.
6. Using compressed air, dry the inside of the fuel injection lines. Wear protective safety
glasses.
7. Inspect the fuel injection pump for the following:
Damage to the body.
Damage to the mounting flange.
Damage to the injection line fittings.
Damage to the electrical connectors.
Evidence of fuel leakage.
8. Inspect the fuel injection lines for the following:

Cracking, kinks, or wear marks from rubbing.
Damage to the injection line fittings.
Damage to the mounting brackets, retaining clips, and insulators.
9. Inspect the fuel injection nozzle injection line fittings for damage.
Important: Replace the glow plug if the matching fuel injection nozzle fails testing, even if
the glow plug checks out as being good.
10. Test the fuel injection nozzles for proper operation.
Refer to Fuel System.
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11. Inspect the glow plugs for damage, stripped threads, and tips that are cracked, bulged, or
broken.
12. Test the glow plugs for proper operation.
THREAD REPAIR
Tools Required
General purpose thread repair kits. These kits are available commercially.
CAUTION: Wear safety glasses in order to avoid eye damage.
Important: Refer to the kit manufacturer's instructions regarding the size of the drill and tap to
use.
Avoid any buildup of chips. Back out the tap every few turns and remove the chips.
1. Determine the size, the pitch, and the depth of the damaged thread. If necessary, adjust the
stop collars on the cutting tool and tap to the required depth.
2. Drill out the damaged thread. Clean out any chips.
3. Tap the hole. Lubricate the tap with light engine oil. Clean the thread.
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Fig. 142: Drill Out Damaged Thread & Tapping New Threads
4. Thread the thread insert onto the mandrel of the installer. Engage the tang of the insert onto
the end of the mandrel.
Important: The insert should be flush to one turn below the surface.
5. Lubricate the insert with light engine oil (except when installing in aluminum) and install
the insert.
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6. If the tang of the insert does not break off when backing out the installer, break the tang off
with a drift.
Fig. 143: Thread Insert Onto Mandrel Of Installer

SERVICE PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY
Dirt will cause premature wear of the rebuilt engine. Clean all the components.
Use the proper tools to measure the components when checking for excessive wear.
Components not within the manufacturer's specification must be repaired or replaced.
MY
When the components are reinstalled into an engine, return the components to their original
location, position, and direction.
During assembly, lubricate all the moving parts with clean engine oil (unless otherwise
specified). This will provide initial lubrication when the engine is first started.
PISTON OIL COOLING NOZZLE INSTALLATION
Important: Excessive force can crush the piston oil nozzle. Do not damage the piston oil nozzle
bore. Do not damage the crankshaft bearing bore.
Using a brass drive pin, install the piston oil nozzles.
Use a brass drive pin that has the same OD as the piston oil nozzles.
Gently tap the piston oil nozzles into their bores.
Ensure the piston oil nozzles are fully seated in their bores.
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Fig. 144: Install Oil Nozzles

ENGINE BLOCK PLUG INSTALLATION
Tools Required
J 41712 Oil Pressure Switch Socket
1. Install the front camshaft oil gallery plugs. Use GM P/N United States 12346004, GM P/N
Canada 10953480, or the equivalent, on the threads.
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Tighten
Tighten the plugs until they are completely seated.
2. Install the oil cooler line fittings. Use GM P/N United States 12346004, GM P/N Canada
10953480, or the equivalent, on the threads.
Tighten
Tighten oil cooler line fittings to 57 N.m (43 lb ft).
Fig. 145: Install Front Camshaft Oil Gallery Plugs & Oil Cooler Line Fittings
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3. Install the side oil gallery plugs.
Tighten
Tighten oil gallery plugs to 34 N.m (25 lb ft).
Fig. 146: Install Side Oil Gallery Plugs

4. Install the remaining oil gallery plugs. An oil gallery plug is located inside the rear main
bearing cap land. Use GM P/N United States 12346004, GM P/N Canada 10953480, or the
equivalent, on the threads.
Tighten
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Tighten oil gallery plugs to 34 N.m (25 lb ft).
5. Install the engine oil pressure sensor switch.
Tighten
Tighten oil pressure switch using J 41712 , to 12 N.m (9 lb ft).
6. Install the cup plugs and the block heater. Use GM P/N United States 12377901, GM P/N
Canada 10953504, or the equivalent, on the cup plugs.
7. Install the coolant drain plugs. Use GM P/N United States 12346004, GM P/N Canada
10953480, or the equivalent, on the threads.
Tighten
Tighten the coolant drain plugs to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
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Fig. 147: Install Oil Gallery Plugs, Oil Pressure Sensor Switch, Cup Plugs, Block
Heater & Coolant Drain Plugs
OIL FILTER ADAPTER INSTALLATION
1. Install the oil cooler bypass valve using a socket the same size as the outside diameter of the
valve. Drive the valve into the bore until the valve seats on the shoulder in the bore.
Important: The cup plug has an orifice hole that prevents an air lock from occurring and
blocking the oil flow.
2. Install the cup plug for the oil cooler bypass valve.
3. Install the oil filter bypass valve using a socket the same size as the outside diameter of the
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valve. Drive the valve into the bore until the valve seats on the shoulder in the bore.
Fig. 148: Install Oil Cooler Bypass Valve & Cup Plug, & Filter Bypass Valve
4. Install the oil filter fitting.
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Tighten
Tighten the oil filter fitting to 42 N.m (31 lb ft).
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Fig. 149: Install Oil Filter Fitting

CAMSHAFT BEARING INSTALLATION
Tools Required
J 33049 Camshaft Bearing Service Set

Important:
All bearing locations are viewed from the front of the block, with the block in an upright
position.
The camshaft bearing bores vary in size. On the back of the camshaft bearing is the bore location
number from one through five. Be sure to fit the correct camshaft bearing into the correct bore.
The outer camshaft bearings must be installed first. These bearings serve as guides for the
tool.
The rear camshaft bearing must be installed from the front of the block and the front
camshaft bearing must be installed from the rear of the block. This allows the tool to remain
centered.
There is one oil hole in the rear camshaft bearing. Using the seam in the 11 o'clock position
as a reference point, the oil hole must be in the 1 o'clock position. Be sure that the oil hole
in the camshaft bearing lines up with the oil groove in the block.
1. Install the rear camshaft bearing using the J 33049 .

Insert the driving bar with the correct expanding driver into the camshaft bearing,
collet 4 for camshaft bearing one.
Turn the tool until the collet has tightened in the bearing.
Push the guide cone against the block and into the fifth bearing bore to center the tool.
Drive the bearing into the block.
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Fig. 150: Install Rear Camshaft Bearing Using J 33049

Important: There are two oil holes in the front camshaft bearing. Using the seam in the 12
o'clock position, and the notch facing the front of the block as reference points, one oil hole
will be in the 1 o'clock position and the other oil hole will be in the 4:30 position. Be sure
that both oil holes in the camshaft bearing line up with the oil grooves in the block.
2. Install the front camshaft bearing using the J 33049 .

Insert the driving bar with the correct expanding driver into the camshaft bearing,
collet 3 for camshaft bearing five.
Push the guide cone against the block and into the first bearing bore to center the tool.
Important: There is one oil hole in the center camshaft bearings. Using the seam in the 11
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o'clock position as a reference point, the oil hole must be in the 1 o'clock position. Be sure
that the oil hole in the camshaft bearing lines up with the oil groove in the block.
Fig. 151: Install Front Camshaft Bearing

3. Install the inner camshaft bearings using the J 33049 .

Insert the driving bar with the correct expanding driver into the camshaft bearing
(collet 4 for camshaft bearings two through four).
Push the guide cone against the block and into the first bearing bore to center the tool.
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Repeat this procedure in order to install the remaining camshaft bearings.
4. Install a new rear camshaft plug.

Use sealer GM P/N United States 12377901, GM P/N Canada 10953504, or
equivalent on the camshaft plug.
Install the plug flush or to a maximum of 0.80 mm (0.03 in) deep.
CRANKSHAFT AND BEARINGS INSTALLATION
There are five crankshaft bearings numbered 1 through 5, as viewed from the front of the engine.
There is an arrow on each bearing cap that points toward the front of the engine. The center
crankshaft bearing, number three, is the thrust bearing.
The upper crankshaft bearing inserts all have an oil groove and a oil gallery hole from the block
in the center of the groove. The upper crankshaft bearing inserts also have additional holes in the
oil groove at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock to provide oil to the oil spray nozzles. The oil spray
nozzles are mounted in the crankshaft bearing bulk heads. The lower bearing inserts do not have
an oil groove or holes.
During initial assembly, the crankshaft bearings are select-fitted to each of the five crankshaft
bearing bores. The total diameter size range of crankshaft bearing bores 1 through 5 is 79.826-
79.850 mm (3.145-3.146 in). This range divides into three sizes, represented by the size numbers
1, 2 or 3. The proper size number is then stamped on the pan rail at the corresponding crankshaft
bearing bulk head.
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Fig. 152: Crankshaft Bearing Bores

The crankshaft is color-marked in red/orange, blue or white, near each crankshaft bearing journal.
Cross-referencing the size number on the pan rail with the color on the crankshaft indicates the
proper bearing selection.
Crankshaft bearings are available in standard 0.013 mm (0.0005 in) and 0.026 mm (0.0010
in) undersized for select fitting, in order to attain proper crankshaft bearing clearance.
MY
Undersized refers to the crankshaft diameter.

For service purposes, bearing size combinations provide the following clearances:
Crankshaft bearing numbers 1, 2, 3 and 4: 0.045-0.083 mm (0.0018-0.0033 in).
Crankshaft bearing number 5: 0.055-0.093 mm (0.0022-0.0037 in).
Important: The upper crankshaft bearing inserts must have holes for the piston oil nozzles, or
damage to the engine could result. All engines were assembled with three-hole upper crankshaft
bearing inserts in positions 1, 2, 3 and 4, and with a two-hole upper crankshaft bearing insert in
position 5. Replace the upper crankshaft bearing inserts with the same type as originally installed.
1. Install the upper crankshaft bearing inserts to the block.

2. Install the lower crankshaft bearing inserts to the crankshaft bearing caps.
3. Apply engine oil to the crankshaft bearing inner surfaces.
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Fig. 153: Upper & Lower Crankshaft Bearing Inserts

4. Install the crankshaft.
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Fig. 154: Crankshaft

5. Apply a 1/8 inch bead of gasket maker (1), GM P/N United States 1052942, GM P/N
Canada 10953466, or equivalent, on each side of the rear crankshaft bearing cap area.
MY
MY
Fig. 155: Apply Gasket Maker On Rear Crankshaft Bearing Cap Areas
Important: Crankshaft bearing cap bolt sizes are as follows:
All inner crankshaft bearing cap bolts on crankshaft bearing caps 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 are

the long 12 mm bolts.
All outer crankshaft bearing cap bolts on crankshaft bearing caps 1 and 5 are the short
12 mm bolts.
All outer crankshaft bearing cap bolts on crankshaft bearing caps 2, 3, and 4 are the 10
mm bolts.
6. Apply engine oil to the crankshaft bearing cap bolt threads.
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Fig. 156: Inner & Outer Crankshaft Bearing Cap Bolts

NOTE: The crankshaft bearing caps are to be tapped into place with a
brass or leather mallet before the attaching bolts are installed.
Do not use the attaching bolts to pull the crankshaft bearing
caps into their seats, as this may damage the bearing cap
and/or block.
7. Install the number 1,2,4, and 5 crankshaft bearing caps and bearing by tapping into place
with a brass or leather mallet.
8. Apply engine oil to the crankshaft bearing cap bolt threads.
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9. Install the crankshaft bearing cap inner 12 mm bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the inner 12 mm bolts to 75 N.m (55 lb ft).
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Fig. 157: Install Crankshaft Bearing Caps

10. Install the number three crankshaft bearing cap and the bearing, thrust bearing, by tapping
into place with a brass or leather mallet.
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11. Install the crankshaft bearing cap inner 12 mm bolts.
Tighten
12. Tap the end of the crankshaft first rearward then forward with a lead hammer to line up the
crankshaft bearing and the crankshaft thrust surfaces.
Tighten
13. Measure the crankshaft end play with the crankshaft forced forward. Measure at the front
end of the number three crankshaft bearing with a feeler gage. The proper clearance is 0.10-
0.25 mm (0.004-0.0010 in).
14. Tighten all crankshaft bearing cap bolts in the following sequence:
Tighten
14.1. Retighten the inner 12 mm bolts to 75 N.m (55 lb ft).

14.2. Tighten the inner 12 mm bolts an additional 90 degrees.
14.3. Tighten the outer 12 mm bolts, crankshaft bearing caps 1 and 5, to 20 N.m (15 lb
ft).
14.4. Retighten the outer 12 mm bolts, crankshaft bearing caps 1 and 5, to 20 N.m (15
lb ft).
14.5. Tighten the outer 12 mm bolts an additional 90 degrees.
14.6. Tighten the outer 10 mm bolts, crankshaft bearing caps 2, 3, and 4, to 40 N.m
(30 lb ft).
DO NOT tighten the outer 10 mm bolts, crankshaft bearing caps 2, 3, and 4, an

additional 90 degrees.
15. Inspect the crankshaft for binding.

16. Try turning the crankshaft to check for binding. If the crankshaft does not turn freely, loosen
the crankshaft bearing cap bolts, one pair at a time, until the tight bearing is located.
17. Burrs on the crankshaft bearing cap, foreign matter between the insert and the block or the
crankshaft bearing cap, or a faulty insert could cause a lack of clearance at the bearing.
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CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL INSTALLATION
Tools Required
J 39084 Rear Main Seal Installer

Important:
Coat the crankshaft surface with engine oil.

Lightly coat the lip of the new oil seal with engine oil or grease before installing the new oil
seal.
Do not scratch or nick the sealing edge of the oil seal.
1. Install the oil seal, with the spring cavity facing the engine, onto the crankshaft.
2. Using the J 39084 , drive the seal into the crankshaft until the tool bottoms against the block
and the rear crankshaft bearing cap.
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Fig. 158: Install Oil Seal

PISTON, CONNECTING ROD, AND BEARING INSTALLATION
Tools Required
J 8037 Ring Compressor
The connecting rod bearings are precision insert connecting rod bearings, and do not require
shims for adjustment. Do not file the rods or the rod caps. If the engine has excessive clearances,
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install a new bearing. Service bearings are available in standards size, with yellow color for
identification, and 0.026 mm (0.001 in) undersized, with green color for identification. Selective
fitting of the rod and the crankshaft is necessary in order to obtain close tolerances. For example,
use one-half of a 0.026 mm (0.0010 in) undersized insert, which will decrease the clearance by
0.013 mm (0.0005 in), rather than using a full standard bearing.
Important:
When using selective fit rod bearings, always use the standard bearing in the connecting rod,
and use the undersized bearing in the end of the rod cap.
Note that the color-coding for selective fit rod bearings is different from the color-coding
for the crankshaft bearings.
Connecting rod bearings are available in 0.026 mm (0.0010 in) undersized for select fitting.
The L65 engines may have both, standard and 0.08 mm (0.0010 in) oversize connecting rod
bearings. The oversize connecting rod cap's lower end is stamped with OS.
Important:
Make sure that the cylinder walls are clean.

Lightly lubricate the cylinder walls with engine oil.
Make sure that the pistons install in their matching cylinder.
Install used pistons in the cylinders from which they were removed.
Install new pistons in their fitted cylinders.
1. Remove the connecting rod cap from the piston and connecting rod assembly.
2. Install two 10 mm (3/8 in) hose onto the connecting rod studs.
3. Locate the piston ring end gaps, with the piston viewed with the swirl indent up, in the
following way:
3.1. The oil ring expander gap at 45 degrees left of the swirl indent
3.2. The oil control ring gaps at 180 degrees opposite of the oil expander ring
3.3. The second compression ring gap at the piston top and under the swirl indent
3.4. The first compression ring 180 degrees opposite of the second ring. Lubricate the
piston and rings with engine oil.
4. Without disturbing the ring end gap location, install the J 8037 .
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Fig. 159: Install Connecting Rod Cap

5. Install the piston so that the depression in the piston crown is toward the outside of the
engine.
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6. Tap the piston down into the bore using light blows with a hammer handle, while guiding
the connecting rod to the journal from beneath the engine.
7. Hold the ring compressor against the block until all rings have entered the cylinder bore.
8. Remove the hoses from the connecting rod bolts.
Fig. 160: Install Piston

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Important: Each connecting rod and bearing cap should be marked, beginning at the front
of the engine. Cylinders 1, 3, 5, and 7 are the left bank and 2, 4, 6, and 8 are the right bank.
The numbers on the connecting rod and bearing cap must be on the same side when installed
in the cylinder bore. If a connecting rod is transposed from one block or cylinder to another,
new connecting rod bearings should be fitted and the connecting rod should be numbered to
correspond with the new cylinder number.
9. Apply engine oil to the connecting rod bearings.
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Fig. 161: Apply Engine Oil To Connecting Rod Bearings

10. Install the connecting rod cap and the nuts, with the bearing.
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Tighten
Tighten the connecting rod cap nuts to 65 N.m (48 lb ft).
11. Measure the connecting rod side clearance.

Use a feeler gauge between the connecting rod and the crankshaft.
The correct clearance is 0.17-0.63 mm (0.007-0.025 in).
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Fig. 162: Install Connecting Rod Cap & Nuts

OIL PUMP INSTALLATION
MY
1. Install the oil pump with the driveshaft.

2. Apply Sealer GM P/N United States 12345493, GM P/N Canada 10953488, or equivalent
to the oil pump bolts.
3. Install the oil pump bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the oil pump bolts to 90 N.m (65 lb ft).
MY
Fig. 163: Install Oil Pump Bolts

MY
OIL PAN INSTALLATION
1. Apply a 2 mm (1/16 in) bead of RTV sealant GM P/N United States 12346286, GM P/N
Canada 10953472, to the oil pan rear seal at the inside corners where the seal meets the rear
main bearing cap on the block.
2. Install the oil pan rear seal to the rear main bearing cap before the sealer starts to dry.
3. Apply a 5 mm (3/16 in) bead of RTV sealant GM P/N United States 12346286, GM P/N
Canada 10953472, to the oil pan sealing surface, inboard of the bolt holes. Install the pan
before the sealer starts to dry.
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Fig. 164: Install Oil Pan Rear Seal

MY
4. Install the oil pan to the engine.
5. Install the oil pan bolts.
Tighten
Tighten all except the rear two bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
Tighten the rear two bolts to 23 N.m (17 lb ft).
Tighten the oil pan drain plug to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
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Fig. 165: Install Oil Pan Bolts

CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION
Important: Replace the valve lifters when a new camshaft is installed.
1. Install the camshaft sprocket key.
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Fig. 166: Install Camshaft Sprocket Key

2. Install the camshaft sprocket spacer, with the ID chamfer facing the camshaft.
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Fig. 167: Install Camshaft Sprocket Spacer

3. Install the camshaft.

3.1. Coat the camshaft lobes with Lubricant GM P/N United States 1052367, GM P/N
Canada 992869, or the equivalent.
3.2. Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals with engine oil.
3.3. Carefully insert the camshaft into the block, in order to avoid damage to the
camshaft bearings.
4. Install the thrust bearing.
5. Install the thrust bearing bolts.
Tighten
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Fig. 168: Install Camshaft, Thrust Bearing & Bolts

VALVE LIFTER INSTALLATION
NOTE: Prime the new valve lifters before installation. The valve lifters may
be damaged if the valve lifters are dry when the engine is started.
Important: Replace the lifters when you install a new camshaft. Some engines will have both
standard and 0.25 mm (0.010 in) oversize valve lifters.
The oversize lifter will have the number 10 etched on the side. The block will be stamped OS on
the cast pad adjacent to the lifter bore and on the top rail of the cylinder case above the lifter
bore.
1. Install the valve lifters to the engine.

Prime the new valve lifters before installation, by working the lifter plunger while
submerged in clean kerosene or diesel fuel.
Coat the lifter roller and the bearings with lubricant GM P/N United States 1052367,
GM P/N Canada 992869, or equivalent.
Install the lifters in their original location.
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Fig. 169: Install Valve Lifters

Important: Ensure that the straight edge of the guide plates and the clamps face away from
the cylinders.
2. Install the guide plates.
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Fig. 170: Install Guide Plates

3. Install the clamps.
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Fig. 171: Install Clamps

Tighten
Tighten the clamp bolts to 27 N.m (20 lb ft).
Important: If the engine will not turn over by hand, one or more of the lifters may be
binding in the guide plates.
4. After installing the clamps, turn the crankshaft by hand 720 degrees, two full turns, in order
to ensure the free-movement of the lifters in the guide plates.
CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION - LEFT

MY
Tools Required
J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Important:
Make sure that the block gasket surfaces are clean.

The head gasket material is soft. Handle the gasket with care. Ensure the gasket surface is
not creased or dented.
Do not use a sealer on the head gasket. The head gasket is made with sealant on the gasket
surface. Additional sealer may cause leakage or malfunction. In addition, some sealers may
attack the initial sealant on the gasket.
1. Install the left cylinder head gasket to the block, over the cylinder head dowel pins.
2. Install the left cylinder head to the block, over the cylinder head gasket and the cylinder
head dowel pins.
Fig. 172: Cylinder Head & Gasket

MY
NOTE: Do not reuse the cylinder head bolts. NEW cylinder head bolts
must be used. The cylinder head bolts are torque-to-yield bolts
and cannot be reused once the initial torque is applied. During
the initial torque of the cylinder head bolt the cylinder head
bolt is stretched to achieve proper clamp load. Proper clamp
load will not be achieved if a used cylinder head bolt is torqued
again. A stretched cylinder head bolt can also break when
torqued. Failure to replace the used cylinder head bolts with
NEW cylinder head bolts can lead to improper clamp loads and
extensive engine damage.
3. Install the cylinder head bolts using the installation and tightening sequence (1-17).
Tighten
3.1. In sequence (1-17), tighten all of the cylinder head bolts to 25 N.m (20 lb ft).
3.3. In sequence (1-17), retighten all of the cylinder head bolts to 75 N.m (55 lb ft).
3.4. Using the J 36660-A , tighten all of the cylinder head bolts in sequence (1-17) an
additional 90 degrees-100 degrees, 1/4 plus turn.
MY
Fig. 173: Tightening Sequence To Install Left Cylinder Head Bolts

CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION - RIGHT
Tools Required
J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter

Important:
Ensure that the block gasket surfaces are clean.

The head gasket material is soft. Handle the gasket with care. Ensure the gasket surface is
not creased or dented.
Do not use a sealer on the head gasket. The head gasket is made with sealant on the gasket
surface. Additional sealer may cause leakage or malfunction. In addition, some sealers may
attack the initial sealant on the gasket.
1. Install the right cylinder head gasket to the block, over the cylinder head dowel pins.
2. Install the right cylinder head to the block, over the cylinder head gasket and the cylinder
head dowel pins.
MY
Fig. 174: Install Right Cylinder Head & Gasket

NOTE: Do not reuse the cylinder head bolts. NEW cylinder head bolts
must be used. The cylinder head bolts are torque-to-yield bolts
and cannot be reused once the initial torque is applied. During
the initial torque of the cylinder head bolt the cylinder head
bolt is stretched to achieve proper clamp load. Proper clamp
load will not be achieved if a used cylinder head bolt is torqued
again. A stretched cylinder head bolt can also break when
torqued. Failure to replace the used cylinder head bolts with
NEW cylinder head bolts can lead to improper clamp loads and
3. Install the cylinder head bolts using the installation and tightening sequence (1-17).
Tighten
MY
3.3. In sequence (1-17), retighten all of the cylinder head bolts to 75 N.m (55 lb ft).
3.4. Using the J 36660-A , tighten all of the cylinder head bolts in sequence (1-17) an
additional 90 degrees-100 degrees, 1/4 plus turn.
Fig. 175: Tightening Sequence To Install Right Cylinder Head Bolts

VALVE ROCKER ARM, SHAFT, AND PUSH ROD INSTALLATION
NOTE: Install the valve pushrods with the copper-colored, painted, or

marked end up in order to avoid damage or premature wear.
Important: Ensure that the ball ends of the valve pushrods seat in the valve rocker arms.
1. Install the valve pushrods with the copper-colored, painted or marked end upwards.
2. Install the valve rocker arm shaft assembly.
NOTE: Improper installation of the valve rocker arm shaft bolts may
cause valve rocker arm shaft breakage and piston to valve
contact.
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3. Install the bolts.

3.1. Rotate the crankshaft, until the mark on the crankshaft balancer is at the 2 o'clock
position.
3.2. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 88 mm (3 1/2 in), aligning the crankshaft
balancer mark with the first lower water pump bolt, at approximately the 12:30
position.
3.3. This procedure will position the engine so that no valves are close to a piston
crown.
3.4. Finger-tighten the bolts.
Tighten
Alternately tighten the bolts to 55 N.m (40 lb ft).
4. Rotate the crankshaft in order to make sure that there is free-movement of the valve train.
Fig. 176: Install Valve Pushrods, Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly & Bolts
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VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER INSTALLATION - LEFT
1. Clean the sealing surfaces on the cylinder head and the valve rocker arm cover, so that the
surfaces are free from oil and foreign material.
Fig. 177: Left Valve Rocker Arm Cover

NOTE: Do not allow the RTV sealant to enter any blind threaded hole.
RTV sealant that is allowed to enter a blind threaded hole can
cause hydraulic lock of the fastener when the fastener is
tightened. Hydraulic lock of a fastener can lead to damage to
the fastener and/or the components. Hydraulic lock of a
fastener can also prevent the proper clamping loads to be
obtained when the fastener is tightened. Improper clamping
loads can prevent proper sealing of the components allowing
leakage to occur. Preventing proper fastener tightening can
allow the components to loosen or separate leading to
Important: The RTV should be applied such that it follows and overlaps the stepped ridge.
This will distribute RTV on both the upper and lower levels of the step. When the valve
rocker arm cover is fastened to the cylinder head, the RTV should flow on to both upper
and lower levels of the step.
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2. Apply a 5-8 mm (3/16-5/16 in) bead of RTV sealant GM P/N United States 12346286, GM
P/N Canada 10953472, to the left valve rocker arm cover, inboard of the bolt holes. The
sealer must be wet to the touch, when the bolts are tightened.
Fig. 178: RTV Sealant Location

3. Install the left valve rocker arm cover.
4. Install the left valve rocker arm cover bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the left valve rocker arm cover bolts to 27 N.m (20 lb ft).
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Fig. 179: Install Left Valve Rocker Arm Cover Bolts

VALVE ROCKER ARM COVER INSTALLATION - RIGHT
1. Clean the sealing surfaces on the cylinder head and the valve rocker arm cover, so that the
surfaces are free from oil and foreign material.
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Fig. 180: Right Rocker Arm Cover Sealer

NOTE: Do not allow the RTV sealant to enter any blind threaded hole.
RTV sealant that is allowed to enter a blind threaded hole can
cause hydraulic lock of the fastener when the fastener is
tightened. Hydraulic lock of a fastener can lead to damage to
the fastener and/or the components. Hydraulic lock of a
fastener can also prevent the proper clamping loads to be
obtained when the fastener is tightened. Improper clamping
loads can prevent proper sealing of the components allowing
leakage to occur. Preventing proper fastener tightening can
allow the components to loosen or separate leading to
Important: The RTV should be applied such that it follows and overlaps the stepped ridge.
This will distribute RTV on both the upper and lower levels of the step. When the valve
rocker arm cover is fastened to the cylinder head, the RTV should flow on to both upper
and lower levels of the step.
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Fig. 181: RTV Sealant Location

2. Apply a 5-8 mm (3/16-5/16 in) bead of RTV sealant GM P/N United States 12346286, GM
P/N Canada 10953472, to the right valve rocker arm cover, inboard of the bolt holes. The
sealer must be wet to the touch, when the bolts are tightened.
3. Install the right valve rocker arm cover.
4. Install the right valve rocker arm cover bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the right valve rocker arm cover bolts to 27 N.m (20 lb ft).
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Fig. 182: Install Right Valve Rocker Arm Cover & Bolts
TIMING CHAIN AND SPROCKETS INSTALLATION
1. Install the keyway in the crankshaft.
Important:
Do not damage the reluctor wheel square bosses.

Align the timing marks.
2. Install the crankshaft sprocket with the reluctor wheel square bosses facing the front.
3. Install the camshaft sprocket with the timing chain with the mark on the sprocket facing the
front.
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Fig. 183: Install Camshaft Sprocket

4. Install the fuel injection pump camshaft gear.
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Fig. 184: Install Fuel Injection Pump Camshaft Gear

5. Install the washer and the bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 170 N.m (125 lb ft).
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Fig. 185: Install Washer & Bolt

ENGINE FRONT COVER INSTALLATION
Tools Required
J 22102 Front Cover Aligner and Seal Installer
Important: Replacing either of the following will affect timing:
The timing chain

The timing gears
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The front cover

The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
The crankshaft
It will then be necessary to reprogram TDC Offset (Recovery) into the PCM.
1. Clean the front cover and the block sealing surfaces, in order to ensure that they are free
from oil.
2. Install the front crankshaft oil seal using the J 22102 with the open end of the seal facing the
inside cover.
3. Coat the seal lips with grease.
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Fig. 186: Install Front Crankshaft Oil Seal Using J 22102

4. Apply a 2 mm (3/32 in) bead of anaerobic sealant GM P/N United States 1052942, GM
P/N Canada 10953466, or the equivalent, to the front cover sealing area.
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MY
Fig. 187: Apply Sealant To Front Cover Sealing Area

5. Install the front cover to the engine.
6. Install the front cover bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the front cover bolts to 45 N.m (33 lb ft).
Fig. 188: Install Front Cover & Bolts

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CRANKSHAFT BALANCER INSTALLATION
Important: Before installing the crankshaft balancer, check the oil seal contact area for grooving
and roughness. Replace the crankshaft balancer if necessary.
1. Tap the crankshaft balancer into place with a mallet.

2. Make sure that the key is in place.
3. Make sure that the crankshaft balancer is completely installed on the crankshaft.
4. Install the bolt and the washer.
Tighten
Fig. 189: Install Bolt & Washer

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5. Install the crankshaft pulley and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolts to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
Fig. 190: Install Crankshaft Pulley & Bolts

FUEL INJECTION PUMP INSTALLATION
Tools Required
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J 29873 Nozzle Socket
Important: Final fuel injection pump timing must be set after the engine is installed in the
vehicle. Refer to Fuel Injection Pump TDC Offset Adjustment in Engine Controls.
Important: Never rotate the engine with the starter, the starter location engine rotation fixture,
or with the wrench from the front of the engine with the fuel injection pump removed. The loose
fuel pump drive gear could become lodged in the front cover and cause gear tooth distress and
shear the camshaft drive gear. Align the camshaft gear timing marks before installing the fuel
injection pump drive gear.
1. Install the fuel injection pump and gasket with the ESO solenoid pointed straight up.
Fig. 191: Install Fuel Injection Pump & Gasket

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2. Install the fuel injection pump nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).
Fig. 192: Install Fuel Injection Pump Nuts

3. Install the fuel injection pump gear. Align the slot in the fuel injection pump gear with the
locating pin on the fuel injection pump hub.
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Important: Align the timing marks. Be certain the mark on the fuel injection pump gear is
aligned with the mark on the camshaft gear. For the proper timing of the fuel injection
pump, the cam gear timing mark must be in the 12 o'clock position. Rotate the crankshaft to
bring the cam gear timing mark up to the 12 o'clock position.
4. Install the fuel injection pump gear retaining bolts.
Tighten
Fig. 193: Install Fuel Injection Pump Gear & Retaining Bolts
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NOTE: In order to remove or install an injection nozzle, use the J

29873 on the 30-mm portion of the nozzle. Failure to use the 30-
mm hex portion will result in damage to the injection nozzle.
5. Apply a thin coating of anti-seize compound to the threads of the injection nozzle (1).
6. Install the injection nozzle and gasket (2), using the J 29873 .
Tighten
Tighten the nozzle to 80 N.m (59 lb ft).
Fig. 194: Install Injection Nozzle & Gasket Using J 29873

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7. Install the injection line brackets.
Important: :
Uncap the injection lines before assembly.

Install the injection lines in the correct position.
Do not bend the injection lines.
8. Install the injection lines (1-8) to the pump.
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Fig. 195: Install Injection Lines & Brackets

Important:
MY
Uncap the injection lines before assembly.

Install the injection lines in the correct position.
Do not bend the injection lines.
9. Install the injection lines to the nozzles.
Tighten
Tighten the injection line fittings to 36 N.m (28 lb ft).
10. Install the injection line clips to the brackets.
Fig. 196: Install Injection Lines & Clips

11. Install the fuel inlet line to the fuel injection pump.
12. Install the fuel return hose to the fuel injection pump.
13. Install the fuel return line brackets on the front left and the front right side rocker covers.
14. Install the fuel return hoses at the injector nozzles.
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15. Install the clamps.
Fig. 197: Install Fuel Inlet Line, Return Hose, Return Line Brackets, Hoses &
Clamps
WATER PUMP INSTALLATION
1. Clean the sealing surfaces on the water pump plate and the block.
2. Install the water pump and the gasket to the water pump plate.
3. Apply high temperature thread adhesive GM P/N United States 12345493, GM P/N Canada
10953472, or equivalent, to the bolt threads.
4. Install the bolts.
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Tighten
Fig. 198: Install Water Pump, Gasket & Bolts To Water Pump Plate
5. Apply a bead of anaerobic sealer GM P/N United States 1052942, GM P/N Canada
10953466, or the equivalent to the water pump plate.
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Fig. 199: Apply Sealant To Water Pump Plate

6. Install the water pump plate to the engine.

The sealer must be wet to the touch when installing the plate.
Apply the sealant GM P/N United States 12346004, GM P/N Canada 10953480, or
equivalent, to the threads of the bolts and studs.
7. Install the bolts and studs.
Tighten
Tighten the water pump to the front cover bolts to 42 N.m (32 lb ft).
Tighten the water pump plate to front cover bolts to 28 N.m (20 lb ft).
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Fig. 200: Install Water Pump Plate To Engine, Bolts & Studs
EXHAUST MANIFOLD INSTALLATION - LEFT
Install the left exhaust manifold and the bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the left exhaust manifold bolts to 35 N.m (26 lb ft).
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Fig. 201: Install Left Exhaust Manifold & Bolts

EXHAUST MANIFOLD INSTALLATION - RIGHT
Install the right exhaust manifold and the bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the right exhaust manifold bolts to 35 N.m (26 lb ft).
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Fig. 202: Install Right Exhaust Manifold & Bolts

OIL PUMP DRIVE INSTALLATION
1. Install the new gasket to the oil pump drive.

2. Install the oil pump drive to the engine.
Index the drive with the camshaft gear and the oil pump drive shaft.
Make sure the drive seats fully.

MY
3. Install the clamp and the bolt.
Tighten
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Fig. 203: Install New Gasket, Oil Pump Drive, Clamp & Bolt
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TURBOCHARGER INSTALLATION (G)
1. Install the seal onto the engine block.

2. Install the turbocharger.
3. Install the turbocharger mounting bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the turbocharger mounting bolts to 65 N.m (48 lb ft).
4. Install the wastegate actuator bracket mounting bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the wastegate actuator bracket mounting bolts to 65 N.m (48 lb ft).
Important: In order to ensure heat shield clearance, locate the exhaust pipe clamps as
shown.
5. Slide the exhaust clamps over the exhaust manifold and turbocharger.
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Fig. 204: Install Seal, Turbocharger, Bolts & Wastegate Actuator Bracket Mounting
Bolts
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6. Install the right hand side exhaust pipe.
Important: Tighten the clamps at the exhaust manifold end first.
7. Place the clamps in the correct position.
Tighten
Tighten the clamps to 10 N.m (90 lb in).
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Fig. 205: Install Right Side Exhaust Pipe

8. Install the left hand side exhaust pipe.
Important: Tighten the clamps at the exhaust manifold end first.
9. Place the clamps in the correct position.
Tighten
Tighten the clamps to 10 N.m (90 lb in).
Fig. 206: Install Left Side Exhaust Pipe

ENGINE WIRING HARNESS ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION
Tools Required
MY
J 39083 Glow Plug Connector Tool

J 41515-A Glow Plug Socket
1. Install the crankshaft position sensor in the front cover, if equipped.
Fig. 207: Install Crankshaft Position Sensor (If Equipped)


MY
2. Install the crankshaft position sensor bolt, if equipped.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft position sensor bolt to 23 N.m (17 lb ft), if equipped.
Fig. 208: Install Crankshaft Position Sensor Bolt (If Equipped)

3. Install the glow plugs using the J 41515-A .
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Tighten
Tighten the glow plugs to 17 N.m (13 lb ft).
Fig. 209: Install Glow Plugs

4. Install the heat shields on cylinders number 4 and 6.

5. Using J 39083 install the jumper wires to cylinders 4 and 6.
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Fig. 210: Install Heat Shields On Cylinders No. 4 & 6 & Using J 39083
6. Place the harness in the engine valley.

7. Plug in or connect all the wiring harness connectors to devices or attachment points.
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Fig. 211: Locating Engine Harness

INTAKE MANIFOLD INSTALLATION
Intake Manifold
1. Install the new gaskets onto the cylinder heads.

2. Install the intake manifolds.
Important:
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1. Apply teflon sealer GM P/N United States 12346004, GM P/N Canada 10953480, on the
threads of the studs that are second to the end on both intake manifolds. There are a total of
four studs that require the teflon sealer.
2. Apply threadlocker GM P/N United States 12345493, GM P/N Canada 10953488, on the
threads of the remaining studs.
3. Install the intake manifold studs.
Tighten
Tighten the intake manifold studs, from the center out, to 42 N.m (31 lb ft).
4. Install the miscellaneous brackets and fuel line brackets on the intake studs.
5. Install the nuts for the brackets.
Tighten
Tighten the bracket nuts to 23 N.m (17 lb ft).
MY
Fig. 212: Install Gaskets & Intake Manifolds, Studs, Brackets & Nuts
MY
6. Install the center intake manifold gaskets on the intake manifolds.

7. Install the O-ring onto the turbocharger inlet housing.
8. Lubricate the O-ring lightly with engine oil.
9. Install the center intake manifold onto the right and the left intake manifolds and on the
turbocharger inlet housing.
10. Install the bolts to the center intake manifold.
Tighten
Tighten the center intake manifold bolts to 23 N.m (17 lb ft).
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Fig. 213: Install Center Intake Manifold & Gaskets, O-Ring & Bolts
Thermostat Housing
1. Install the thermostat bypass connector.

2. Install the thermostat bypass hose and clamps.
3. Install the lower thermostat housing and gaskets.
4. Install the bolts and stud/nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts and the stud/nut to 42 N.m (31 lb ft).
5. Install the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor.
Tighten
Tighten the ECT to 23 N.m (17 lb ft).
6. Install the fuel bleed valve and stud/nut.
Tighten
Tighten the stud/nut to 41 N.m (31 lb ft).
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Fig. 214: Install Thermostat Bypass Connector, Hose, Clamps, Bolts, Stud/Nut, ECT
& Fuel Bleed Valve
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7. Install the seals (3) onto the thermostats (2).

The seals have a split, inner edge, which installs over the flange on the thermostats.
The seals have a bead on the surface that faces the water outlet.
8. Install the thermostats into the lower thermostat housing.

9. Install the upper thermostat housing.
10. Install the upper thermostat bolts/studs.
Tighten
Tighten the upper thermostat bolts/studs to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).
Fig. 215: Install Seals, Thermostats, Upper Thermostat Housing & Bolts/Studs
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR AND TUBE INSTALLATION
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1. Install a new O-ring seal to the oil level indicator tube.
Install the oil level indicator tube to the engine.
2. Install the oil level indicator tube bracket bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 4 N.m (35 lb in).
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Fig. 216: Install Oil Level Indicator Tube, Seal & Bracket Bolt
OIL FILL TUBE INSTALLATION
1. Install the oil fill tube grommet to the front cover.
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Fig. 217: Install Oil Fill Tube Grommet

2. Install the oil fill tube to the front cover.
3. Install the oil fill tube retaining nuts to the front cover.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 23 N.m (17 lb ft).
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Fig. 218: Install Oil Fill Tube & Retaining Nuts

ENGINE FLYWHEEL INSTALLATION
1. Install the inner retainer (if equipped).

2. Install the flywheel.
3. Install the outer retainer (if equipped).
4. Install the flywheel bolts.
Tighten
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Fig. 219: Install Inner & Outer Retainer (If Equipped), Flywheel & Bolts
ENGINE LIFT BRACKET INSTALLATION
1. Install the left accessory/lift bracket.
2. Install the left accessory/lift bracket retaining bolts.
Tighten
3. Install the left accessory/lift bracket retaining nut (if equipped).
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
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Fig. 220: Install Left Lift Bracket, Retaining Bolts & Nut
4. Install the vacuum pump.

5. Install the vacuum pump retaining bolts.
Tighten
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Fig. 221: Install Vacuum Pump & Retaining Bolts

6. Install the drive belt tensioner.

7. Install the drive belt tensioner retaining bolt.
Tighten
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Fig. 222: Install Drive Belt Tensioner & Retaining Bolt

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION

ENGINE COMPONENT DESCRIPTION
Cylinder Block
The engine block is made of cast iron and it has eight cylinders arranged in a V shape, with four
cylinders in each bank. The engine block is a one piece casting with the cylinders encircled by
coolant jackets.
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Cylinder Head
The cylinder heads are made of cast iron. They have parent metal intake and exhaust valve guides,
and parent metal intake and exhaust valve seats. The intake and exhaust valve seats are induction
hardened for durability. Pre- combustion chambers manufactured from NIMONIC-80 (a high
strength, heat resistant alloy) are located with each set of intake/exhaust valves. Glow plugs are
located between each set of intake/exhaust valves, in the side of the cylinder head, protruding in
to the pre-combustion chamber.
Camshaft
A steel camshaft is supported by five bearings pressed into the engine block. The camshaft
sprocket is mounted to the front of the camshaft and is driven by the crankshaft sprocket through
a timing chain. Motion from the camshaft is transmitted to the valves by hydraulic roller-type
hydraulic valve lifters, valve pushrods, shaft-mounted rocker arms. The valve guides are integral
to the cylinder head. A spiral drive gear machined into the camshaft near the rear journal operates
the oil pump drive assembly.
Crankshaft
The crankshaft is made of cast nodular iron, with fillet ground main bearing journals. The
crankshaft is supported by five precision fit crankshaft bearings, retained by the crankshaft
bearing caps. The crankshaft bearing caps are machined with the engine block for proper
alignment and clearance. The crankshaft bearing caps are retained by four bolts each. The number
three crankshaft bearing at the center of the engine block is the thrust bearing. The four
connecting rod journals (two rods per journal) are spaced 90 degrees apart. The crankshaft
position sensor reluctor ring has four lugs used for crankshaft timing, and is integral to the
crankshaft sprocket.
Pistons and Connecting Rods
The pistons are cast aluminum alloy that use two compression rings and one oil control ring
assembly. The piston pins are full floating in the pistons and in the connecting rods, with spring
steel retainers at each end of the piston pin bore. The connecting rods are forged steel and have
precision insert type crankpin bearings.
Valve Train
The valve train is a shaft-mounted rocker arm type. Motion is transmitted from the camshaft
through hydraulic roller-type valve lifters, and tubular valve pushrods, to the valve rocker arms.
The valve rocker arm pivots on a shaft in order to open the valve. The hydraulic roller-type valve
lifters keep all parts of the valve train in constant contact. Each valve lifter act as an automatic
MY
adjuster and maintains zero lash in the valve train. This eliminates the need for periodic valve
adjustment. The valve rocker arms are located and retained by nylon retainers press fit to the
valve rocker arm shaft, and by the valve rocker arm shaft retaining bolts. The valve rocker arm
shaft retaining bolts are installed into the cylinder head.
Intake Manifold
The intake manifold is a two-piece design. Both the upper and lower portions are made of cast
aluminum. A Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is mounted at the front of the upper
intake manifold and sealed by an O-ring seal.
Exhaust Manifold
The two exhaust manifolds are constructed of cast iron. The exhaust manifolds direct exhaust
gases from the combustion chambers to the turbocharger.
Turbocharger
The turbocharger is used to increase the amount of air that enters the engine's cylinders. The
increase of air allows a proportional increase of fuel that is injected into the cylinders. The results
are:
Increased power output.

More complete combustion of the fuel.
Cooling of the cylinder heads, the pistons, the valves, and the exhaust gas. This cooling
effect helps extend engine life.
Engine exhaust gas is directed to the turbine housing. The turbine housing acts as a nozzle to
direct the exhaust gas flow to the turbine wheel blades, where heat energy and pressure from the
exhaust gas drives the turbine wheel. The turbine wheel is attached to the shaft assembly along
with the compressor wheel, which rotates at the same speed as the turbine wheel. Clean air from
the air cleaner, and crankcase vapors from the Crankcase Depression Regulator (CDR) Valve, are
drawn into the compressor housing. The air is compressed by the compressor wheel blades and
delivered to the engine upper intake manifold. The inside of the turbocharger compressor
housing, the compressor wheel, and the inside of the intake manifold can be very oily (wet) due
to the crankcase vapors - THIS IS NORMAL.
A vacuum-operated wastegate regulator valve in the turbocharger exhaust housing regulates the
flow of exhaust gasses, and the amount of boost delivered to the engine by the turbocharger. The
wastegate regulator valve is controlled by the PCM, which monitors turbocharger boost pressure,
engine RPM, vehicle load and power requirements. Vacuum is applied to the regulator valve to
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close the wastegate as increased boost is required. Vacuum is removed from the regulator valve to
open the wastegate when increased boost is no longer required.
Vacuum Pump
The belt driven vacuum pump provides vacuum for the operation of the turbocharger wastegate.
The vacuum pump does not require periodic maintenance, and is serviced by replacement.
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Fig. 223: Lubrication Description

A gear-type oil pump with an enclosed pressure regulator pressurizes the lubrication oil
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distribution system. The oil pump uses a 552 kPa (80 psi) pressure regulator spring. Bronze
bushings in the oil pump drive/driven gears, and a steel base plate, support the oil pump
drive/driven gear shafts. The oil pump is driven by the oil pump drive, which, in turn, is driven by
the camshaft. The oil pump draws unpressurized oil through a pickup screen and pipe that are
submerged in oil inside the oil pan. The oil flows from the oil pump to an oil cooler, located by
the radiator, that cools the oil. The oil cooler is protected from high operating pressure (normally
seen only during cold ambient temperature conditions) by the oil cooler bypass valve. The oil
cooler bypass valve is located in the engine block oil gallery to oil cooler passage (behind the oil
filter or oil filter adapter assembly). The oil flows from the oil cooler or from the oil cooler
bypass valve to a full-flow oil filter. The engine is protected from operating without lubrication
(due to a clogged filter) by the oil filter bypass valve. The oil filter bypass valve is located in the
engine block oil gallery to oil filter passage (behind the oil filter or oil filter adapter assembly).
The oil flows from the oil filter or the oil filter bypass valve to the main oil galleries. An oil
pressure sensor is located on the left main oil gallery. The oil flows from the main oil galleries to
the camshaft bearing bores. The channel in the camshaft bearing bores supplies the oil to the
camshaft bearings and to the main bearing oil galleries. The oil flows from the upper main
bearing shells to the crankshaft oil galleries. The crankshaft oil galleries supply oil to the
connecting rod bearings. The oil flows from the main oil galleries to the valve lifters. Oil flows
from the valve lifters through hollow valve pushrods, to the valve rocker arms. The oil then flows
from the main oil galleries to the turbocharger. Oil from the turbocharger drains back to the
crankcase through a gallery in the block.
CLEANLINESS AND CARE
Throughout this section, it should be understood that proper cleaning and protection of
machined surfaces and friction areas is part of the repair procedure. This is considered
standard shop practice even if not specifically stated.
When any internal engine parts are serviced, care and cleanliness is important.
When components are removed for service, they should be marked, organized or retained in
a specific order for reassembly. Refer to Separating Parts.
At the time of installation, components should be installed in the same location and with the
same mating surface as when removed.
An automobile engine is a combination of many machined, honed, polished and lapped
surfaces with tolerances that are measured in millimeters or thousandths of an inch. These
surfaces should be covered or protected to avoid component damage.
A liberal coating of clean engine oil should be applied to friction areas during assembly.
Proper lubrication will protect and lubricate friction surfaces during initial operation.
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REPLACING ENGINE GASKETS
Gasket Reuse and Applying Sealant
Do not reuse any gasket unless specified.

Gaskets that can be reused will be identified in the service procedure.
Do not apply sealant to any gasket or sealing surface unless specified in the service
procedure.
Separating Components
Use a rubber mallet in order to separate the components.

Bump the part sideways in order to loosen the components.
Bumping of the component should be done at bends or reinforced areas of the component to
prevent distortion of the components.
Cleaning Gasket Surfaces
Use care to avoid gouging or scraping the sealing surfaces.

Use a plastic or wood scraper in order to remove all the sealant from the components.
Do not use any other method or technique to remove the sealant or the gasket material from
a part.
Do not use abrasive pads, sand paper, or power tools to clean the gasket surfaces.
These methods of cleaning can cause damage to the component sealing surfaces.
Abrasive pads also produce a fine grit that the oil filter cannot remove from the engine
oil.
This fine grit is an abrasive and can cause internal engine damage.
Assembling Components
Assemble components using only the sealant (or equivalent) that is specified in the service
procedure.
Sealing surfaces must be clean and free of debris or oil.
Specific components such as crankshaft oil seals or valve stem oil seals may require
lubrication during assembly.
Components requiring lubrication will be identified in the service procedure.
Apply only the amount of sealant specified in the service procedure to a component.
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Do not allow the sealant to enter into any blind threaded holes, as the sealant may prevent
the fastener from clamping properly or cause component damage when tightened.
Tighten fasteners to the proper specifications. DO NOT overtighten the fasteners.
USE OF RTV AND ANAEROBIC SEALER
Sealant Types
Important: The correct sealant and amount of sealant must be used in the proper location to
prevent oil leaks, coolant leaks, or the loosening of the fasteners. DO NOT interchange the
sealants. Use only the sealant (or equivalent) as specified in the service procedure.
The following 2 major types of sealant are commonly used in engines:
Aerobic sealant (Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV))

Anaerobic sealant, which include the following:
Gasket eliminator
Pipe
Threadlock
Aerobic Type Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) Sealant
Aerobic type Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant cures when exposed to air. This type
of sealant is used where 2 components (such as the intake manifold and the engine block) are
assembled together.
Use the following information when using RTV sealant:
Do not use RTV sealant in areas where extreme temperatures are expected. These areas
include:
The exhaust manifold
The head gasket
Any other surfaces where a different type of sealant is specified in the service
procedure
Always follow all the safety recommendations and the directions that are on the RTV
sealant container.
Use a plastic or wood scraper in order to remove all the RTV sealant from the components.
Important: Do not allow the RTV sealant to enter any blind threaded holes, as it may
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prevent the fasteners from clamping properly or cause damage when the fastener is
tightened.
The surfaces to be sealed must be clean and dry.

Use a RTV sealant bead size as specified in the service procedure.
Apply the RTV sealant bead to the inside of any bolt holes areas.
Assemble the components while the RTV sealant is still wet to the touch (within 3 minutes).
Do not wait for the RTV sealant to skin over.
Tighten the fasteners in sequence (if specified) and to the proper torque specifications. DO
NOT overtighten the fasteners.
Anaerobic Type Gasket Eliminator Sealant
Anaerobic type gasket eliminator sealant cures in the absence of air. This type of sealant is used
where 2 rigid parts (such as castings) are assembled together. When 2 rigid parts are disassembled
and no sealant or gasket is readily noticeable, then the 2 parts were probably assembled using an
anaerobic type gasket eliminator sealant.
Use the following information when using gasket eliminator sealant:
Always follow all the safety recommendations and directions that are on the gasket
eliminator sealant container.
Apply a continuous bead of gasket eliminator sealant to one flange.
Important: Do not allow the gasket eliminator sealant to enter any blind threaded holes, as
the gasket eliminator sealant may prevent the fasteners from clamping properly, seating
properly, or cause damage when the fastener tightened.
Apply the gasket eliminator sealant evenly to get a uniform thickness of the gasket
eliminator sealant on the sealing surface.
Important: Gasket eliminator sealed joint fasteners that are partially torqued and the
gasket eliminator sealant allowed to cure more than five minutes, may result in incorrect
shimming and sealing of the joint.
After properly tightening the fasteners, remove the excess gasket eliminator sealant from the
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outside of the joint.

Anaerobic Type Threadlock Sealant
Anaerobic type threadlock sealant cures in the absence of air. This type of sealant is used for
threadlocking and sealing of bolts, fittings, nuts, and studs. This type of sealant cures only when
confined between 2 close fitting metal surfaces.
Use the following information when using threadlock sealant:
Always follow all safety recommendations and directions that are on the threadlock sealant
container.
The threaded surfaces to be sealed must be clean and dry.
Apply the threadlock sealant as specified on the threadlock sealant container.
Important: Fasteners that are partially torqued and then the threadlock sealant allowed to
cure more than five minutes, may result in incorrect clamp load of assembled components.
Anaerobic Type Pipe Sealant
Anaerobic type pipe sealant cures in the absence of air and remains pliable when cured. This type
of sealant is used where 2 parts are assembled together and require a leak proof joint.
Use the following information when using pipe sealant:
Do not use pipe sealant in areas where extreme temperatures are expected. These areas
include:
The exhaust manifold
The head gasket
Surfaces where a different sealant is specified
Always follow all the safety recommendations and the directions that are on the pipe sealant
container.
Use a pipe sealant bead of the size or quantity as specified in the service procedure.
Important: Do not allow the pipe sealant to enter any of the blind threaded holes, as the
pipe sealant may prevent the fastener from clamping properly, or cause component damage
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when the fastener is tightened.
Apply the pipe sealant bead to the inside of any bolt hole areas.
Apply a continuous bead of pipe sealant to 1 sealing surface.
SEPARATING PARTS
Important: Many internal engine components will develop specific wear patterns on their
friction surfaces.
When disassembling the engine, internal components MUST be separated, marked, or organized
in a way to ensure reinstallation to their original location and position.
Separate, mark, or organize the following components:
Piston and the piston pin

Piston to the specific cylinder bore
Piston rings to the piston
Connecting rod to the crankshaft journal
Connecting rod to the bearing cap
A paint stick or etching/engraving type tool are recommended. Stamping the connecting rod
or cap near the bearing bore may affect component geometry.
Crankshaft main and connecting rod bearings

Camshaft and valve lifters
Valve lifters, lifter guides, pushrods and rocker arm assemblies
Valve to the valve guide
Valve spring and shim to the cylinder head location
Engine block main bearing cap location and direction
Oil pump drive and driven gears
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
Use a clean, well lit work area. Other necessary equipment includes the following items:
Suitable parts cleaning tank

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Compressed air supply

Trays - to keep parts and fasteners organized
Adequate set of hand tools.
Use an approved engine repair stand in order to prevent personal injury or damage to engine
components.
Special tools are illustrated throughout this section and are listed at the end of the section. These
tools (or tool equivalents) are specially designed to quickly and safely accomplish the operations
for which they are intended. The use of these tools will also minimize possible damage to engine
components.
Inspection of certain critical components require precision measuring tools. Torque wrenches are
necessary in order to correctly tighten various fasteners. Those fasteners will be called out within
this section.
SPECIAL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
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Fig. 224: Special Tools & Equipment (1 Of 4)

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2002 Chevrolet Chevy Express G1500

Engine Mechanical 6.5L (Unit Repair) - Chevy Express & Savana

Fig. 1: Fastener Tightening Specifications (1 Of 2)

Fig. 2: Fastener Tightening Specifications (2 Of 2)

ENGINE MECHANICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Fig. 3: Engine Mechanical Specifications (1 Of 4)

Fig. 4: Engine Mechanical Specifications (2 Of 4)

Fig. 5: Engine Mechanical Specifications (3 Of 4)

Fig. 6: Engine Mechanical Specifications (4 Of 4)

VACUUM PUMP SPECIFICATIONS

Fig. 7: Vacuum Pump Specifications

SEALERS, ADHESIVES, AND LUBRICANTS

Fig. 8: Sealers, Adhesives, and Lubricants

Fig. 9: Cylinder Head and Components

Fig. 10: Cylinder Block and Components

Fig. 11: Front Cover, Oil Pan, and Components

Fig. 12: Fuel Injection System Components

Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

1. Remove the drive belt tensioner retaining bolt.

Fig. 13: Remove Drive Belt Tensioner & Retaining Bolt

3. Remove the vacuum pump retaining bolts.

Fig. 14: Vacuum Pump & Retaining Bolts

5. Remove the right accessory bracket retaining bolts.

8. Remove the left accessory/lift bracket retaining bolts.

DRAINING FLUIDS AND OIL FILTER REMOVAL

1. Remove the oil pan drain plug.

Fig. 17: Oil Pan Drain Plug & Oil Filter

4. Remove the left and right coolant drain plugs.

Fig. 18: Identifying Coolant Drain Plug

ENGINE FLYWHEEL REMOVAL

1. Remove the flywheel retaining bolts.

OIL FILL TUBE REMOVAL

1. Remove the oil fill tube retaining nuts.

Fig. 20: Remove Oil Fill Tube & Retaining Nuts

OIL LEVEL INDICATOR AND TUBE REMOVAL

1. Remove the oil level indicator tube retaining bolt.

INTAKE MANIFOLD REMOVAL

3. Remove the thermostats (2) with the seals (3).

7. Remove the fuel bleed valve retaining nut.

13. Remove the gaskets.

Fig. 23: Lower Thermostat Housing, Fitting, Clamps & Bolts

1. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector.

Fig. 24: Remove IAT Sensor

3. Disconnect the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor electrical connector.

Fig. 25: Remove MAP Sensor, Retaining Bolts & Gasket

7. Disconnect the glow plug relay electrical connectors.

Fig. 26: Glow Plug Relay Electrical Connectors

8. Remove the glow plug relay retaining nuts.

Fig. 27: Remove Glow Plug Relay & Nuts

10. Disconnect the vacuum harness hose connectors.

Fig. 28: Remove Vacuum Harness & Vacuum Solenoid Bolts

13. Remove the vacuum solenoid(s).

Fig. 29: Remove Vacuum Solenoid, Bracket & Nuts

16. Remove the upper intake manifold retaining bolts.

26. Remove the fuel injection feed pipes.

Fig. 31: CDR Valve Vent, Hose & Clamps

27. Remove the intake manifold bolts.

Fig. 32: Lower Intake Manifold, Bolts & Gaskets

Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.