How The Earth Works - GEOG
How The Earth Works - GEOG
How The Earth Works - GEOG
Darren Leaver
Asst. Prof. of Geography
Glendale Community College, CA
HOW THE EARTH WORKS: A Simplified View of Our Complex Planet
The discipline of Geography is often defined as “the study of Earth as the home of mankind.” In
essence, this places Geography in a unique setting, a sort of “bridge” between the Physical Sciences (the
study of Earth’s physical attributes and processes) and the Social Sciences (the study of Earth’s human
activities such as cultures, politics, history, economics, etc.). With that said, the field of Geography is
itself divided into two main areas; Human Geography and Physical Geography. As the name implies,
Human Geography has a focus on the planet’s human activities, and how these activities interact and
influence (or are influenced by) the planet’s bio-physical environment. As with related disciplines
within the Social Sciences, Geographers explore, describe, analyze and assess various human activities
(religion, culture, agriculture, language, politics, economics, poverty, disease) but what sets the
Geographer apart is the focus on mapping these phenomena and assessing the nature of the distributions.
For instance, where an Economist might focus on the fiscal mechanisms of poverty in a specific region
(let’s say Haiti), a Geographer might specialize in the global distribution of poverty, analyzing the
common root causes within poor areas, then looking for potential pathways out of poverty. The
mapping of poverty can often bring some striking surprises, with some areas of the USA showing
extreme poverty compared to some regions of India which (to many people’s surprise) can be
considerably more wealthy. Human Geography is so vast in scope it is divided into sub-fields such as
Cultural Geography, Economic Geography, Political Geography, Historical Geography and Human
Impact on the Environment, to name just a few.
Physical Geography has a focus on the Earth’s natural bio-physical environment, including the
atmosphere, water bodies, rocks, plants and animals. Physical Geographers explore and describe Earth’s
bio-physical properties, look for and map recognizable patterns in the distribution of Earth’s physical
phenomena (climate, storms, earthquakes, etc.), analyze and try to explain the complex interactions
between these phenomena, and assess the two-way impacts between Earth’s physical phenomena and
Earth’s human inhabitants.
As a Physical Geography text, this book will focus on the Earth’s physical properties, and attempts to
communicate complex concepts in a style which can be understood by “everyday folk”, those with
limited exposure to the scientific jargon of the day. The goal is to allow for a general understanding of
the main processes which shape the distribution of our planet’s natural landscapes, weather, climate,
plant and animal distributions, and geologic processes. The approach is to dismantle some of our
previous notions about the Earth, and then use new information to rebuild these concepts at a college-
level understanding. For example, I often begin my college lectures by posing the following conundrum
to my students:
We all know that the Earth orbits around the sun once each 365.25 days, or once every Earth year. Our
path is that of an ellipse (egg shape), with an average distance between the Earth and the Sun of about
93,000,000 miles. However, this is the average distance, and since the orbit is elliptical we get as close
to the sun as 91,500,000 miles and as far from the sun as 94,500,000 miles. One of these Earth-Sun
positions occurs on approximately July 4 of each year, with the other occurring around January 3. So,
It is important to reiterate that the main goal of this book is for a general understanding of how the Earth
works, not a complete understanding, since many of the concepts we will explore are far more complex
than explained herein. A more thorough description would require much longer chapters, and in some
cases would require so much detail that you’d probably fall asleep before achieving our main goal.
The danger in the general understanding approach of this book is that we end up with a general
understanding of how the Earth works at the expense of a more thorough analysis. However, take
comfort in knowing that a general understanding of how our planet works will take you a long way in
making sense of your own earthly observations. For those willing to delve deeper into each subject we
explore, I will provide numerous web links along the way which allows for further exploration of the
subject material of each chapter.
Lastly, take comfort in knowing that even professional scientists don’t have all the answers for many
aspects of the planet’s physical mechanisms. Over time, dedicated scientists uncover many answers to
the complexities of the Earth’s inner workings, but there’s still a long way to go. In the end, it is my
hope that you will enjoy learning about “how the Earth works” and better appreciate the unique place we
all call “home”. Hopefully you will be the one to uncover some of Earth’s secrets in the near future!
Learning Objectives:
Upon successful completion of this chapter the student should be able to demonstrate critical
thinking skills and a basic understanding of:
1. The 4 Geographic Spheres and the interactions that occur between them;
3. The size, shape and orientation of earth relative to its orbit around the sun;
5. The causative factors for earth’s seasons and key points within earth’s yearly revolution;
6. The differences between earth’s revolution and rotation, and how these earth motions manifest
themselves in our daily lives;
7. The portrayal of earth using maps, globes and the geographic grid;
The study of Physical Geography is made more manageable if we divide the subject matter into four
main parts that we call Geographic Spheres or Environmental Spheres. We can then study each
Geographic Sphere individually but we can also explore the connections between these spheres. These
spheres are so important that our book is laid out into sections based upon each of them.
1. Atmosphere (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmosphere_of_Earth)
The atmosphere is defined as the gaseous envelope
surrounding the Earth, which we sometimes call
‘air.’ As we will see later, air is a mixture of gases
(Nitrogen, Oxygen, Argon, Water Vapor, Carbon
Dioxide, etc.) along with smattering of liquids
(liquid water) and solids (dust, soot, pollen, ice,
etc.). The first half of this book will focus on the
atmosphere as we explore its composition, the
various layers of the atmosphere, high pressure, low
pressure, winds, storms, and what constitutes
weather versus climate.
2. Hydrosphere (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrosphere)
The second section of the book focuses on the
hydrosphere. This sphere is all about water, which
can be found in the three forms of liquid (liquid
water or just plain water), solid (ice), or gas (water
vapor). We’ll explore where the various forms of
water can be found on the Earth. For instance, of
Earth’s available water over 97% can be found in
the oceans. We’ll look at how this water got there,
why it sits in the oceans, and how the water cycles
between the oceans, atmosphere, mountain glaciers,
streams, lakes, rivers, and (hopefully) back to the oceans.
3. Biosphere (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biosphere)
In the third section of the book we study Earth’s life forms. While this
also includes viruses, bacteria, single-celled organisms, fungi, and
oceanic life-forms, we will focus on land-based (terrestrial) plants and
animals. We’ll map out the locations of Earth’s major large ecosystems
(known as Biomes) and detail the plant and animal communities of these
biomes. We’ll learn the difference between a woodland and a forest,
and try to make sense of why Tropical Rainforests and Tundra exist
Take a look at the following video for a more dynamic look at the Geographic Spheres and their
interactions with each other. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnpF0ndXk-8
HOW OLD IS EARTH, WHERE IS EARTH LOCATED IN SPACE, AND WHY IS THIS
IMPORTANT?
In order to study the Earth we first have to know a little about how old it is, where our planet sits in the
solar system and how it is positioned in space, how large our planet is, how it moves around its axis and
around the sun, and how the Earth interacts with the sun to create our seasons.
Scientific evidence indicates that Earth and our entire solar system formed from a cloud of interstellar
gas and dust about 4.6 billion years ago. The process of planetary formation was completed as dust, gas
and larger solid blocks gathered or ‘accreted’ together over a very short time (relatively short, that is) of
about 10-20 million years. As very hot, radioactive materials were accreted to this early earth, the entire
mass of rock material melted. Over time the outer layers cooled and solidified into our crust and formed
toxic atmospheres that would eventually escape our planet’s gravity. With continued cooling and
The area between Mars and Jupiter is occupied by an asteroid belt of rocky, metallic Earth-like
materials. Beyond the orbit of Neptune are numerous dwarf planets including Pluto, Ceres and Eris.
These objects are large enough to be rounded by their own gravity but are not large enough to be
spherical, and are therefore not considered ‘true’ planets. They also have orbits that don’t align with the
celestial plane of the main planets of our solar system.
In another 5 billion years the core of our Sun will have expended all of its hydrogen fuel, and it will
begin to contract. This will generate heat, which in turn will allow hydrogen in the outer layers of the
sun to fuse together into Helium, releasing loads of energy and expanding the size of the sun…to the
point the Earth will likely get swallowed up. So, Mother Earth is 4.6 billion years old and has no more
than another 5 billion years remaining. Anyone worried?
The Moon
The Earth has one large, natural satellite which we call the moon. The moon has a diameter of
approximately 2,200 miles (about a quarter of that of Earth) and is located approximately 238,000 miles
from the Earth. The moon orbits the Earth in a west-to-east direction once every 29.5 days, which
means we get a one full moon most every month. It is possible to get two full moons in a single 30-day
or 31-day month (let’s say on the 1st and 30th of a month). The second full moon in a single calendar
month as a Monthly Blue Moon, a rare phenomenon occurring once every 2.7 years. Note that there
will be two Monthly Blue Moons in 2018, one in January and the other in March.
Although the moon revolves around the Earth in a west-to-east direction, it appears to move in an east-
to-west direction as it rises in the east and sets in the west. The main reason for this apparent motion is
that the Earth rotates from west-to-east at a much faster pace (once every 24 hours). The net effect is
that while the Earth rotates once every 24 hours, the moon is also orbiting toward the east, so it takes
another 50 minutes for the Earth to ‘catch up’ to the exact position in the sky where the moon was seen
on the previous day. Thus, the moon rises and sets 50 minutes later each and every day. Check out the
The following diagram shows the various moon phases courtesy of the US Naval Observatory
http://aa.usno.navy.mil/faq/docs/moon_phases.php
MOON PHASES
New Moon - The Moon's non-illuminated side is facing the Earth. The Moon is not visible (except during a solar eclipse).
Waxing Crescent - The Moon appears to be partly but less than one-half illuminated by direct sunlight. The fraction of the
Moon's disk that is illuminated is increasing.
First Quarter - One-half of the Moon appears to be illuminated by direct sunlight. The fraction of the Moon's disk that is
illuminated is increasing.
Waxing Gibbous - The Moon appears to be more than one-half but not fully illuminated by direct sunlight. The fraction of the
Moon's disk that is illuminated is increasing.
Full Moon - The Moon's illuminated side is facing the Earth. The Moon appears to be completely illuminated by direct sunlight.
Waning Gibbous - The Moon appears to be more than one-half but not fully illuminated by direct sunlight. The fraction of the
Moon's disk that is illuminated is decreasing.
Last Quarter - One-half of the Moon appears to be illuminated by direct sunlight. The fraction of the Moon's disk that is
illuminated is decreasing.
Waning Crescent - The Moon appears to be partly but less than one-half illuminated by direct sunlight. The fraction of the
Moon's disk that is illuminated is decreasing.
A spherical object can be measured in terms of Circumference (the distance around one of the fat parts
or great circles), Diameter (the distance from one outer edge through the center and out to the opposing
outer edge), and Radius (the distance from the inner center to the outer edge, which happens to be
exactly half the diameter). To the nearest 1,000 miles, Earth’s critical measurements are:
If we were to measure Earth’s diameter along any great circle (one that runs through a ‘fat’ portion of
the Earth, cutting it into two equal halves), it is always 8,000 miles when we round off to the nearest
1,000 miles. However, we get a different story if we measure more precisely, let’s say to the nearest one
mile. In this case, Earth’s diameter is different along almost every great circle, with a difference of 27
miles between the diameter measured across the Equator (equatorial diameter) and the diameter
measured from the North Pole to the South Pole (polar diameter) as shown below:
So why is the Earth fat around its mid-section? Well, the Earth spins or ‘rotates’ once every 24 hours on
an axis running from North Pole to South Pole. As the Earth rotates from west to east on this axis, the
Poles just seem to spin around without moving significantly, while the equator rotates almost 25,000
miles in 24 hours (look at a globe as you spin it and see that the equator moves the furthest in each spin).
25,000 miles in 24 hours is about 1,040 miles per hour! Since Earth’s internal layers are not all solid,
and since the equator feels the effect of this spinning more than any other part of the planet, the equator
experiences an outward force called centrifugal force (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_force) which tends to
bulge it outwards away from the Earth’s axis of rotation.
So how does this Oblate Spheroid called Earth sit in relation to the sun? Well, the path the Earth takes
around the sun is referred to as the Earth’s Plane of the Ecliptic. A line drawn at an angle of 90 degrees
from this plane is referred to as the Perpendicular to the Plane of the Ecliptic, or just ‘Perpendicular’.
Earth’s north-south polar axis, the axis we rotate around every day, is inclined 23.44 degrees (let’s just
say 23.5 degrees) from the Plane of the Ecliptic.
This 23.5 degree Axial Tilt is also known as Earth’s Angle of Inclination or Polarity since the Earth’s
tilt dictates that the North Pole points towards the North Star, which is named Polaris.
If you viewed Earth for a long enough period of time from a vantage point way out in deep space, you’d
notice that our planet moves in several different ways. First of all, our entire Solar System moves
around our galaxy (the Milky Way) once every 225-250 million years. This very long time period
means that we might, at times, move into areas of thicker cosmic dust while at other times we might be
in areas free of this celestial debris. The impact to our climate might be significant for millions of years,
but this will NOT create significant changes to our climate or weather during our lifetimes. Therefore,
we don’t consider this to be a significant Earth motion for this course. The same is true of other Earth
motions that are collectively referred to as Milankovitch Cycles
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earth_wobble) and operate on time periods of 21,000 to over 400,000
years. These will be discussed in greater detail when we explore long-term climate change.
The Earth motions which do affect us regularly are those of Rotation (Earth spinning on its own axis
every 24 hours) and Revolution (Earth orbiting the sun once every 365.25 days +/-). Revolution, the
Earth orbiting the sun, takes approximately 365.25 days to complete. Our 21st-Century working
calendars have 365 days per year, with the extra 0.25 day saved and added up to give us a Leap Year
most (but not every) four years (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earth_year). As mentioned before, it is our
revolution around the sun in combination with our fixed axial tilt which gives us our seasons by pointing
the northern and southern hemispheres somewhat towards or away from the sun at opposite times of the
year. When looking from deep space, our revolution looks like this:
On the right side of the diagram is the representation of the December Solstice (approx. Dec. 21/22)
when the direct ray of the sun strikes 23.5 degrees south of the equator. This represents the first day of
winter for the Northern Hemisphere and the first day of summer for the Southern Hemisphere. On this
date the South Pole and the entire Antarctic Circle (located at Latitude 66.5˚S) will receive 24 hours of
daylight, while the North Pole and the Arctic Circle (located at Latitude 66.5˚N) will receive 24 hours
of darkness. In essence, on this date the further south you travel the more daylight hours you’ll receive.
The two remaining positions on the diagram represent the September Equinox (lower left) and March
Equinox (upper right), which occur when the sun’s direct ray strikes the equator on or around
September 22 and March 20, respectively. On these dates everywhere on the planet receives equal
amounts (12 hours) of daylight and night. The name Equinox is derived from the Latin words for equal
(equi) and night (nox).
Check out these links for animated descriptions of why we have seasons.
http://www.khanacademy.org/video/seasons-aren-t-dictated-by-closeness-to-
sun?playlist=Cosmology+and+Astronomy
http://www.khanacademy.org/video/how-Earth-s-tilt-causes-seasons?playlist=Cosmology+and+Astronomy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9hawBb3wbk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taHTA7S_JGk
JULY 4: Aphelion, when the Earth is at a maximum distance of 94.5 million miles from the sun.
JAN. 3: Perihelion, when the Earth is at a minimum distance of 91.5 million miles from the sun.
The diagram (above) exaggerates the elliptical nature of Earth’s orbit around the sun, but this allows you
to visualize Perihelion and Aphelion a little better. Because of this elliptical orbit, the sun is closer to
the southern hemisphere during their summer months, so the southern hemisphere receives
approximately 7% more solar energy than the northern hemisphere during the respective summer
months. This doesn’t necessarily mean the southern hemisphere gets warmer summers than the northern
hemisphere (despite what Australian farmers might say) but it does mean you have to be very careful
about getting too much sun exposure during an Argentine or Australian summer since the sun’s harmful
rays are generally stronger there than in the northern hemisphere. We’ll look at the effects of this
increased energy on the weather and climate of the southern hemisphere in later chapters.
Rotation
We’ve already established that Earth’s seasons are caused by the combined effects of axial tilt and
revolution. We’ll now focus on the second important Earth motion, that of Rotation (Earth spinning on
its own axis once every 24 hours), which is responsible for both ocean tides and the need for
establishing standardized time zones.
Earth rotates from west-to-east once every 24 hours on an axis running from the North Pole to the South
Pole. Since only 50% of a spherical body (and hence, an Oblate Spheroid) can be illuminated by the
sun, with the other 50% remaining in shadow, rotation allows us to have daylight and nighttime hours,
A second major impact of rotation is the generation of ocean tides. Tides are the periodic rise and fall
of the ocean’s surface due to the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun. As the Earth rotates from
west to east, these celestial bodies pull the Earth and its ocean waters towards them, lifting the ocean
waters as a high tide. With continued rotation, the high tide gradually subsides, yielding a low tide
several hours later. As rotation progresses, the tide will build again into the next high tide. Most places
on Earth receive two high tides and two low tides every 24 hours and 50 minutes (a lunar day), while
others receive only one high and one low tide each day.
Image: http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/education/kits/tides/tides03_gravity.html
Since the gravitational pull of the sun and moon have a cumulative effect, tides are most extreme (high
and low) twice every month when the sun, moon and Earth are found in a straight line. These extreme
tides are called spring tides and occur around the time of full moon and new moon. The least extreme
tidal fluctuations are found when the Earth, sun and moon are oriented in such a way that they create a
right angle, in what are termed neap tides. These occur approximately 7.5 days before and after a new
moon or full moon. Check out these links for visual representations of spring and neap tides as well as a
solar day versus a lunar day:
http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/education/kits/tides/media/supp_tide06a.html
http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/education/tutorial_tides/media/supp_tide05.html
Check out these YouTube links for the Geographic Grid and Latitude
https://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_591747489&feature=iv&src_vid=lUMlmRzkuuY&v=pAZUrlKk6CE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALN7gXF1thY
All other places on the planet do require an E or W after its Longitude designation so that we clearly see
which way to go from the Prime Meridian to find the place in question. For example, a place located at
34º09’41”N, and 118º10’03”W tells us this place is located a specific arc distance north of the Equator
and west of the Prime Meridian, a location that GoogleEarth shows to be at the Rose Bowl in Pasadena,
California.
All lines of Longitude are called Meridians, and they are all portions of Great Circles, cutting the Earth
into two equal halves. Meridians are widest (furthest apart) at the Equator, and they all meet at a single
point at the North Pole, as they do at the South Pole. For this reason, the location of the North Pole
would be shown as just 90ºN, with no need for a longitude designation (in effect, the North Pole’s
longitude is all longitudes, since all lines of longitude converge there).
TIME ZONES
Since the Earth completes a full west-to-east rotation every 24 hours (it spins a full 360°) it rotates
exactly 15° every hour. This means that if a city experienced the sun at its zenith (high point) in the sky
at noon, any place on the planet located 15° to the west of the city would experience the zenith sun
exactly one hour later (and that would be noon for them). In essence, every 15° line of longitude (called
Principal Meridians) marks the center of 24 main time zones which stretch around the globe starting at
the Prime Meridian. Again, these 15° increments mark the center of time zones, so the edges of these
main time zones are located 7.5° to both the east and west of the Principal Meridians.
So if you move from west to east across the planet you will inevitably cross the boundaries between
neighboring time zones. For instance, if you travel from Los Angeles (time zone based on the 120˚W
Principal Meridian) to New York (75˚W) you will cross three time zone boundaries. Since you traveled
east you would have to advance your watch three hours forward. It could be that you flew directly to
New York, leaving Los Angeles at 2pm and arriving in New York just five hours later at 10pm New
York time! In essence, traveling towards the east means that you lose an hour of your life for each time
zone you cross into!
However, the old saying “Go West Young Man” can be applied to your return journey, as you gain
hours back by traveling towards the west. For each time zone you cross in this direction, you gain an
extra hour of your life by turning your watch back an hour each time you cross a time one boundary. By
flying direct to Los Angeles from New York your plane might take off at 2pm New York time, arriving
five hours later at 4pm Los Angeles time.
So you might think ‘what if I just kept going west, could I get progressively younger?’ Well, the answer
is yes…and no. It is true that as you travel west you reset you watch back one hour for each time zone
boundary you cross, but this only works until you get to 180 degree meridian, which is (or more
precisely, should be) the location of the International Dateline. At this critical line of longitude you
have to pay back 24 one-hour time resets all at one. So as you travel across the International Dateline by
traveling west, you lose an entire 24-hour day all at once as you move from the “Western Hemisphere”
into the Eastern Hemisphere”. The west side of the Dateline might be Wednesday at 10:45am while on
the east side it would be Thursday at 10:45am, a full 24 hours difference!
Quite often time zone boundaries create a little trouble because part of a country or state might be split
inconveniently by a time zone boundary (in your city it could be that your house would be located
within one time zone while your workplace just a few miles away is located in another time zone). For
this reason time zones often wrap around political boundaries so that we avoid unnecessary problems.
The Pacific island nation of Samoa found itself in ‘Time Zone Trouble’ because it sat on one side of the
International Dateline while most of the island’s tourists came from nearby countries (Australia, New
Zealand) located on the other side of the Dateline. This meant that a tourist leaving New Zealand on
Saturday would arrive into Samoa about 3 hours later, only to find that is was now Friday! On their
journey home they might leave Samoa on Sunday morning, and after a short flight they would arrive in
Auckland, New Zealand on Monday afternoon and be quite late for work! Samoa experienced so much
difficulty with its time zone they actually changed on New Year’s Day 2012 so that they are now on the
same side of the International Dateline as Australia and New Zealand. However, their closest neighbor,
American Samoa, remains on the other side of the Dateline, so as one problem was fixed another was
created. Check out the following link describing the situation in Samoa.
http://www.npr.org/2011/05/09/136149457/samoa-changes-time-zones
Food for Thought: Where on earth are Principal Meridians located furthest from one another? Explain.
Is it possible to see the New Year in 24 times in the same day without you traveling at all that day? If
so, where could this happen? Explain your answer.
To make things even more complicated, some countries and states create their own unique half-hour
(South Australia) or even quarter-hour time zones (Nepal) to differentiate themselves from their
neighbors. Furthermore, many countries and states, especially in the Northern Hemisphere mid-
latitudes, adopt Daylight Savings Time during their summer months by temporarily advancing time by
one hour starting in spring and then back again in the fall. The practice allows for more afternoon and
evening sunlight at the expense of morning sunlight during the summer, with proponents arguing that it
benefits retail and restaurant sales after traditional summer work hours.
DST used
DST no longer used
DST never used
With all the variables to consider figuring out the time in a foreign city can get quite complicated. To
make things easier, check out http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/ and just enter the name of the
city for which you want to know the current time.
Chapter Contents
1. Definition of the Atmosphere
2. Main Atmospheric Gases
3. Trace Gases and their Significance
• Climate Change
• Acid Rain
• Ozone Depletion
4. Particulate Matter
5. Vertical Structure of the Atmosphere
6. Weather versus Climate
7. Factors Influencing Weather and Climate
Our atmosphere is an envelope of air surrounding the planet, but we rarely take the time
to think about exactly what this “air” stuff is composed of, how the tiny components of
air can have a huge impact on our climate, or that there are various layers to our
atmosphere, each one behaving differently from the other layers. We’ve all had
conversations about how our climate seems different lately, or that our weather is
getting ‘weirder’ by the year, but do we really understand the main difference between
weather and climate? Can we explain to others the main factors which collectively yield
different climate types for two distant places on the planet? Can we explain how New
York was under miles of ice only a few thousand years ago? All of this can be explained
if we know a little more about our atmosphere, so let’s dig deeper into this together!
Our atmosphere is defined as an envelope of gases, liquids and small solid particles
surrounding the earth. The liquids are mostly water droplets found in clouds, and the
solid particulate matter is mostly tiny specs of dust, ash, pollen, ice, and salt temporarily
caught in wafting air currents. The vast majority of the atmosphere consists of a mixture
of gases; three main gases and numerous trace gases. If we were to take a sample of air
from numerous places on the planet’s surface and extract the small solid particles, any
liquid drops, and all the water vapor in the air sample, we’d be left with what atmospheric
scientists call “dry air”. Now, upon analyzing this dry air we find it remarkable that the
1) Nitrogen (N2), 78 %
Nitrogen
Atmospheric Nitrogen in the lower atmosphere is found mostly in the form of N2 at a
concentration of 78% of dry air, making it the earth’s largest reservoir of Nitrogen.
Nitrogen is continuously recycled as it falls to earth trapped within rain drops and soaks
into layers of soil. It is then absorbed by bacteria in the soil, assimilated into the roots of
plants, and then released back into the atmosphere, thereby keeping the atmospheric
Nitrogen concentration very stable over time.
The N2 form means two Nitrogen atoms have bonded together to form a single molecule.
This bond is extremely strong, taking an enormous effort to break apart. This makes N2
quite ineffective at mixing with other molecules in the atmosphere or for that matter, with
oxygen in our lungs. We breathe in air rich in N2 and we breathe out air rich in N2, as our
bodies cannot take in the atmospheric Nitrogen in this form.
This is not to say that Nitrogen is not important. On the contrary, it is essential for life on
Earth as it is a main ingredient in the formation of amino acids, proteins, DNA, RNA and
neurotransmitters. Humans indeed require Nitrogen, but we don’t get it from the
atmosphere. Instead, we rely on bacteria in the soil or certain specialized plants which
break down the N2 bonds and allow the free Nitrogen atoms to create complex
compounds like nitrates. These compounds are then absorbed by the roots of plants, and
when we consume the plants we in turn absorb the Nitrogen necessary to form our own
amino acids, proteins, RNA and DNA. For more on the formation and recycling of
Nitrogen compounds click on this link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrogen_cycle.
When asked “what is the main gas in the atmosphere” most people would answer
“Oxygen”, but they would be quite wrong. Notice that the main atmospheric gas is
actually Nitrogen, which is present at a concentration almost 4 times that of Oxygen.
At sea level N2 is quite harmless, but this isn’t always the case. If you were to go scuba
diving you’d be breathing from a tank of compressed air, 78% of which is N2. As a diver
descends to a depth of about 66 feet, the air is compressed so much that the molecules
now take up only a third of the volume they did at sea level. Taking a breath at this depth
would fill the lungs with 3 times the number of (compressed) molecules as compared to
sea level, so not only is the tank depleted of air 3 times faster, the tiny N2 molecules are
absorbed by the blood stream more effectively. The Nitrogen mixes with oxygen in the
©Text Copyright 2018 Darren Leaver
blood to form Nitrous Oxide, a.k.a. laughing gas. Nothing you want to deal with when
you’re 66 feet below sea level.
Oxygen
Oxygen in the lower atmosphere is found at a concentration of 21% of dry air, in the form
of O2 which is referred to as ‘molecular Oxygen’. This molecule’s source is almost
entirely from photosynthesizing plants and algae, which has been ongoing for about 3.5
billion years. Our earlier atmosphere would have been devoid of O2, prior to the presence
of our planet’s earliest blue-green algae. O2 is critical for humans, as we inhale air rich in
O2 which we use for respiration, and we exhale air rich in carbon dioxide (CO2).
Argon
Argon (Ar) is Earth’s third most-common atmospheric gas, with an atmospheric
concentration of 0.93% of dry air. Almost all of this Argon originates from the
radioactive decay of Potassium in the Earth’s crust. Argon doesn’t readily mix or
combine with any other gases, so we breathe it in and breathe it out without taking it up
into our bodies, and this gas is not responsible for any climate change issues of note.
If we add up the concentrations of N2, O2, and Ar we can see that these three gases alone
make up 99.93 % of dry air, leaving only 0.07% of the atmosphere’s volume for all other
gases (plus small particulate solids and water). So what’s the big fuss over global
warming gases like carbon dioxide or acidic compounds like sulfur oxides if they
represent such a small quantity of the atmosphere? Well, the answer is that very small
concentrations of these remaining gases can have a BIG effect on the atmosphere. We
call these remaining atmospheric molecules the variable gases because their
concentrations vary from place-to-place and from time-to-time. They also go by the
name of trace gases because they have very small concentrations (there’s only a small
trace of them in the atmosphere). Let’s take a look at them.
1. Water Vapor (H20). Two hydrogen atoms bonded to one oxygen atom.
Air containing 4% water vapor is found near the equator including the tropical rain
forests and above the tropical oceans.
Source: Evaporation from oceans, seas, lakes, and any other object containing water. It
is estimated that the average water vapor molecule stays in the atmosphere for 10 days.
Problem: None, it’s natural. However, water vapor is the dominant atmospheric gas
responsible for the natural Greenhouse Effect. In this process, Water Vapor (along with
Image: http://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/paleo/globalwarming/images/greenhouse_effect-v1.jpg
For analogy, think of a hot asphalt parking lot which has been in the summer sunshine all
day. Long after the sun has gone down you can feel the heat rising up from the asphalt.
This heat would quickly rise through and out of the atmosphere if it wasn’t for water
vapor (and other gases) which temporarily trap this heat in the lower atmosphere so we
don’t quickly freeze once the sun goes down.
So, water vapor in the lower atmosphere makes the air warmer than what it would be
otherwise. In this way, water vapor acts just like panes of glass in a greenhouse, which
allow the sun’s rays to pass through the glass to heat up the interior of the glass building.
The glass then tends to trap the warm air within the greenhouse. For this reason, water
vapor (along with carbon dioxide, methane, nitrogen oxides, ozone) is considered to be a
Greenhouse Gas (GHG), one which contributes to the Greenhouse Effect.
Scientists are concerned about Climate Change (more on this later), the warming of
Earth’s surface due to the addition of gases to our atmospheric gases with associated
impacts to earth’s geographic spheres. Though atmospheric water vapor is not
considered to be a direct contributor to Climate Change, this gas does tend to amplify the
effects of those gases which do contribute to the unusual warming pattern we are
currently experiencing. Additionally, a warmer lower atmosphere tends to promote
higher rates of evaporation which can temporarily (and locally) increase the water vapor
concentration of air, which can lead to localized increases in rainfall (but who knows
exactly where?) and less snowfall in California’s mountains. In Southern California we
need more winter snow which, upon slowly melting, feeds our rivers and recharges our
groundwater basins well into the summer months.
Since human populations were quite small and technologies quite primitive, early human
activities could not have contributed significantly to the increase of atmospheric CO2
until we began to clear land for villages and agriculture some 11,000 years ago. Even so,
this early contribution to changes in the atmosphere’s composition would have been very
small indeed. As the climate continued to emerge from the last ice age, there was a
simultaneous increase in human population coupled with advances in technology which
allowed for a greater ability to clear forests. Evidence suggests that by 4,000 years ago
ancient Greek forests were already in peril, and as human population continued to
increase more forests were cleared and atmospheric concentration of CO2 inched higher.
By the dawn of the Industrial Revolution in the early 19th Century, the CO2 concentration
stood at approximately 280 parts per million, a number we often use to represent the pre-
industrial level of atmospheric CO2. Though there was certainly a human element to at
least some of this pre-industrial atmospheric CO2, the contribution is considered to be
quite small and only a trace of it can be attributed to the burning of fossil fuels (i.e. coal,
oil, natural gas). The burning of fossil fuels began in earnest towards the end of the 18th
Century as coal seams became the power source of the Industrial Revolution in Europe
and then North America. These fossil fuels had been created through a long process
beginning with ancient photosynthesizing plants, algae, and bacteria pulling carbon
dioxide out of our early atmosphere. These ancient organisms used the carbon to create
carbohydrates, sugars and proteins (in essence they built themselves) and they released
oxygen back to the atmosphere. In certain instances, the carbon-based cells of the plants,
algae or bacteria were buried in low-lying, watery areas such as swamps or shallow seas.
If the organic matter was buried deeper and deeper before being decomposed, the added
pressure and heat over millions of years would convert it into coal, oil or natural gas. In
In time, and in a very cyclic manner, our atmosphere became progressively richer in
oxygen while being depleted in carbon dioxide so that by the time humans began to have
a significant impact to the environment the atmospheric CO2 concentrations had been
reduced to less than 200 parts per million (ppm). Once fossil fuels were selected as a
major fuels source for industrial activity, this trend would be reversed. Burning of fossil
fuels released CO2 back into the atmosphere, containing the carbon that was extracted by
the ancient photosynthesizing plants, algae, and bacteria. The addition of this ‘old’
carbon would be the main driving force of Climate Change.
The image shown below is a graph of CO2 concentrations measured from Antarctic ice
cores with an associated temperature trend (superimposed in red) compared to the
average Antarctic temperature for the period 1850 to 2000 AD. It is very clear that a
correlation exists between atmospheric temperature and CO2 concentration.
Source: http://www.epa.gov/climatechange/science/pastcc.html#last
The main reasons for this increase are the burning of fossil fuels and deforestation.
Over the past 200 years our global industries have been fueled largely on the fossil fuels
coal, oil, and natural gas. The burning of these carbon-based fuels sends CO2 into the
atmosphere, while deforestation means that trees that would have once “vacuumed” the
atmosphere of CO2 are no longer around to do so. The rates of both fossil fuel
consumption and deforestation have increased along with human populations and our
desire for food, cars, and housing. This has been especially true since the 1950s, when
many developing countries began to seek the lifestyle of richer, western countries. This
trend continues into the 21st Century, even as many ‘rich’ countries appear to be second-
guessing their own thirst for natural resources. On May 9, 2013 the daily average CO2
concentration measured at Mauna Loa Observatory in Hawaii reached 400ppm for the
first time since measurement began in 1958. The current average atmospheric
concentration of CO2 is close to 410ppm, and it’s increasing in a seasonal zig-zag pattern
at 2ppm every year. It is likely this concentration of CO2 has not been seen in the
atmosphere for at least 3 million years! Furthermore, it is estimated that the residence
time of CO2 in the atmosphere is approximately 100 years, so CO2 is here with us for
quite some time!
The additional atmospheric CO2 from deforestation and burning of fossil fuels makes
CO2 the primary gas responsible for what we variously call the Enhanced Greenhouse
Effect, Global Warming, Anthropogenic Climate Change, Climate Change, Global
Climate Change, Climate Weirding and a handful of other names (opponents of this
science have some very colorful terms for it). The term Global Warming is less popular
in the scientific community since it refers largely to the warming of the lower atmosphere
and ocean surface (but does infer the related changes to earth systems). The scientific
community prefers the term Climate Change, which addresses the entirety of changes to
Earth’s geographic spheres due to increased concentrations of greenhouse gases.
We refer to all the gases responsible for Climate Change as Greenhouse Gases (GHGs).
The main reason for this is that for the most part, these gases are responsible for both the
Greenhouse Effect and for Climate Change. Admittedly, this creates a bit of confusion,
because water vapor is a Greenhouse Gas but does not appear to contribute greatly to
Climate Change.
Confusion aside, the term Climate Change is a good choice for describing the process
because while most places on the planet are getting warmer, some places are
experiencing slightly colder temperatures. Some places are getting wetter, while other
places are drying out. Many places are experiencing overall warmer average
temperatures but are getting extremely cold winter spells which are still being offset by
long summer heat waves. Basically, weather and climate are becoming more extreme
and unpredictable, impacting to the hydrosphere, biosphere and society.
The excess CO2 in the atmosphere appears to be the main cause of the unusual increase in
the Earth’s surface temperature over the past 200 years. The current high concentrations
of CO2 correspond with the warmest average global temperatures since modern records
were first kept starting in the 1880s. Though there are many methods and datasets for
measuring the earth’s temperature, the most highly regarded are those of NASA and
NOAA. These sources both show that the 11 warmest global temperatures recorded in
modern times were all since 1998, with 2016 being warmest. NOAA shows 2017 as the
third warmest year on record, while NASA shows 2017 as the second warmest (see this
video link). The following chart shows the top 10 warmest years in modern times
courtesy of ClimateCentral.org
This short NASA Video shows how different our recent climate is from that of just 120
years ago, and the graph (below) shows that we are heating up faster than ever before.
http://www.nasa.gov/topics/earth/features/2010-warmest-year.html
The surface of the planet is warming up, and there’s no stopping any time soon. The
great majority of the heat released into the atmosphere has been absorbed by the oceans,
which have heated up and stored much of the excess carbon dioxide. Estimates are that
about 94% of the excess heat attributed to Climate Change has been taken up by the
oceans compared to about 6% for the atmosphere, land surfaces and glaciers combined.
This means that even if we were to burn much less fossil fuels, resulting in a significant
reduction in CO2 emissions into the atmosphere, we’d still be dealing with elevated CO2
concentrations and Global Warming for the next several hundred years because the
Besides the general warming of the lower atmosphere, some of the effects of Climate
Change that we are already experiencing, and will continue to experience for the
foreseeable future include:
o Melting glaciers
o Rising sea level
o Increased intensity of tropical storms
o Loss of farmland
o More extreme seasonal weather patterns
The atmospheric warming from Climate Change leads to the excessive melting of ice
caps located in Antarctica, Greenland and in high mountain ranges such as the Andes.
This melting, along with the associated warming of the oceans, is causing sea level to rise
faster than what would be considered natural. The Intergovernmental Panel on
Climate Change (IPCC) estimates that sea level will rise between 0.6 and 2 feet by the
end of the 21st century, with low lying areas such as Florida’s coastlines experiencing
increased coastal flooding and more intense hurricane activity.
The IPCC predicts that in general, the Polar regions will receive more precipitation while
tropical regions will receive less rainfall. It is projected that the southwest USA and
many parts of Australia will experience periods of excessive drought and more intense
To illustrate the economic concerns related to Climate Change, take a look at this graph
showing the distribution of just some of the record $306 billion in damages attributed to
extreme weather patterns across the USA.
Source: http://www.noaa.gov/news/2017-was-3rd-warmest-year-on-record-for-us
For California, scientists are very concerned about the prospect of years of prolonged
drought followed by the occasional excessively wet winter (with severe flooding).
Again, the average rainfall may change slightly, but the real worry is the extreme years of
drought and flood.
For example, the extreme dry conditions in California throughout the summer and Fall of
2017 provided ideal conditions for the many wildfires throughout the state, resulting in
severe loss of forests, homes and lives. Though the 2017-18 Southern California winter
has been one of the driest on record, it only took one intense downpour to bring a river of
mud and boulders cascading down the recently-burned hills above Santa Barbara and into
residential neighborhoods of Montecito, completely burying houses and highways. As
Climate Change progresses unchecked, we can expect more events like these.
Another of our main concerns in California is the potential loss of snowpack in our major
mountain chains. Not only does this affect our ability to go snowboarding, but if Climate
Change results in higher winter rainfall at the expense of winter snowfall, our water
For a further exploration of Climate Change, check out this NASA website:
http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/Features/GlobalWarming/
and this YouTube link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USIAcXfv39k&feature=related
For another local perspective, a recent study of temperature data for two key locations in
the greater Los Angeles area from 1906 to 2006 (http://climate.nasa.gov/files/LAHeatWaves-
JournalArticle.pdf) shows that the average annual maximum temperature increased 5.0°F
over the past century. The analysis also revealed that long heat waves were virtually non-
existent prior to 1956 but are now commonplace in the midst of a Los Angeles summer.
The study also found that the average minimum temperature increased by 4.2˚F over the
past century. This creates a major concern for the future if we are to expect more of
Southern California’s mountain precipitation to fall as rain rather than snow, which we
depend upon to feed our streams, rivers and reservoirs in late spring, summer and even
fall. Climate Change is here!
3. Methane (CH4)
Source: Methane is produced by microbes in the final phase of the decay of organic
material in oxygen-poor environments such as swamps and rice paddies. Microbes and
bacteria present in the guts of termites and cattle can also produce vast quantities of
methane. Methane is the primary constituent of natural gas, the earth’s most abundant
combustible material. Excess methane is released into the atmosphere through oil
drilling activities, coal mining, conversion of land to rice paddies, and conversion of land
for cattle grazing.
Acid Precipitation:
CO2 + H2O = Carbonic acid (H2CO3)
SOx + H2O = Sulfuric acid (H2SO4)
Sulfur is found as an impurity in most fuels, but especially in coal. When we burn coal
we release not only CO2 but also Sulfur Oxides. Downwind, these gases mix with
atmospheric water to create clouds with a high concentration of Carbonic Acid and
Sulfuric Acid. These clouds then precipitate highly acidic moisture onto forests, cities
and lakes with nasty consequences.
Source: There are numerous natural forms of Nitrogen Oxides, but the atmospheric
concentration has increased due to agriculture and the burning of fuels at very high
temperatures, like those in car engines or coal-burning power plants. These gases
become part of a system where the nitrogen is cycled through the atmosphere, soil,
vegetation and animals, but the excess NOx appears to remain in the atmosphere for over
100 years.
6. Ozone (O3)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ozone#Ozone_in_Earth.27s_atmosphere
http://www.ozonelayer.noaa.gov/science/basics.htm
This same high-energy ultraviolet radiation can strip an Oxygen atom away from an O3
molecule, yielding O and O2, but these will recombine given enough time. The battle
between the Ozone formation process and the Ozone depleting process has been waging
for the past 3.5 billion years, but over time our important stratospheric ‘ozone layer’ was
created. Unfortunately, we’ll soon see it has been under threat since the 1940s.
Problem: Ozone is both toxic and a Greenhouse Gas. The residence time of tropospheric
ozone is quite short, usually a few days or less.
7. Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlorofluorocarbon and http://www.epa.gov/ozone/science/sc_fact.html
Concentration: Trace
Source: Refrigerants, fumigants, propellants, solvents.
Problem: Ozone Depletion and a Greenhouse Gas
Image: http://www.ozonelayer.noaa.gov/science/StratO3.jpeg
When released, CFCs drift into the upper atmosphere where they are subjected to very
cold temperatures and sunlight, which breaks these compounds down, releasing free
Chlorine atoms. Once free to roam, the Chlorine atoms find and break apart multiple
ozone molecules, thereby weakening our protective Stratospheric Ozone Layer.
This leads to more of the sun’s ultraviolet rays making their way through the atmosphere
and damaging our skin. This is especially so over the Antarctic, where the ozone layer
has been weakened so much it’s referred to as an ozone hole.
The severity of ozone depletion over the Antarctic was first recognized in the late 1970s
and has been monitored closely since then. Both land-based and satellite observations are
made every Antarctic spring (September through November) when the sun emits
ultraviolet radiation into the bitterly cold Antarctic stratosphere for the first time in six
months, readily breaking CFC molecules apart, releasing free chlorine atoms to do their
damage. The following diagram shows the progressive depletion of Antarctic ozone
from 1980 to1991 (the purple color represents less total ozone).
The international community came together to pass the Montreal Protocol in 1987,
which phased out the production of ozone-destroying compounds such as CFCs.
Although this was an environmental success, the CFCs already emitted can reside in the
atmosphere for over a century.
Even this “normal” amount of ozone is quite small, as this entire quantity of ozone would
be no thicker than two pennies if it was under the same atmospheric pressure as at sea
level. Since 2006 the size of the Antarctic ozone hole has gotten smaller (better) but in a
zig-zag pattern. The September 2012 hole reached a maximum size of 21.1 million
square km with a minimum ozone concentration of 124 Dobson Units, the best scenario
in over 20 years. However, the news for the 2013 through 2016 Antarctic ozone holes
was not quite so good, with 2015 reaching a maximum size of 28.2 million square km
and a minimum ozone concentration of just 101 Dobson Units. Lastly, we saw a vast
improvement in 2017, with the Antarctic ozone hole reaching just 19.6 million square km
in area, with a minimum ozone concentration of 131 Dobson Units
With a reduction in CFC use is the ozone hole repairing itself and have we seen the worst
already? Only time will tell. Here’s a good animation of Antarctic ozone from 1979-
2017 (the dark blue colors show thin ozone levels). Please check out this link for the
current status of the Antarctic ozone hole at http://ozonewatch.gsfc.nasa.gov/.
Particulate matter
In addition to gases we also have solid particles (some alive, some inorganic) suspended
in the atmosphere, which go by the name particulate matter or aerosols (though these
are not exactly the same they are often used synonymously). These include pollen, dust,
ash, salt, bacteria, viruses and soot. The great majority are natural in origin, with
volcanic eruptions, forest fires and dust blown from the surface by winds being the most
common. Plants and algae can also release gases that react with existing atmospheric
gases to produce aerosols such as sulfate compounds.
Every time you breathe in air you are taking particulates into your body, but for the most
part our bodies have developed defenses to deal with them (including the good old
sneeze). These airborne particles are so small that once injected into the atmosphere they
drift around the lowest layers of the atmosphere for days to years (in general the smaller
aerosols can stay adrift longer). Without particulate matter, cloud formation would not
be possible and the color of our sunsets would just not look the same.
Check out the following link for in in-depth look at these important components of our
atmosphere: http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/Features/Aerosols/
The Troposphere is the lowest level of atmosphere found between 0 and approximately
8 miles above sea level, within which temperature decreases as elevation increases. In
general, the troposphere extends higher in altitude towards the equator and is thinner
towards the poles. The troposphere is the only portion of the atmosphere we humans ever
explore, unless you are an astronaut or an Air Force test pilot. Almost all atmospheric
moisture and storms are found in the troposphere, as are the flights of commercial aircraft
©Text Copyright 2018 Darren Leaver
and the tops of the highest mountains. Clearly, it is the most important layer of the
atmosphere for humans.
The Tropopause is the 2nd atmospheric level between about 8 and 12 miles, in which
temperature remains constant as elevation changes. It should be noted that (as with the
troposphere) the height of the tropopause is maximized at the equator and decreases in
height all the way to the poles.
The Stratosphere is the 3rd atmospheric level between about 12 and 28 miles, in which
the temperature rises as elevation increases. The temperature rise is due to increased
ozone concentrations which absorb the sun’s energy and heat up (stratospheric ozone)
The Stratopause is the 4th atmospheric level and is located approximately 28 to 32 miles
above earth’s surface. Temperature stays relatively unchanged as you increase elevation
in the Stratopause.
The Mesosphere is the layer of the atmosphere from approximately 32 to 50 miles above
earth’s surface. Within this layer temperature decreases as elevation increases. Most
meteors that burn up upon entering earth’s atmosphere do so here.
Beyond the Mesosphere are the Thermosphere (where the International Space Station
orbits the earth) and the Exosphere, where only a few molecules of Helium and
Hydrogen exist but are still gravitationally attracted to earth. In essence, these two layers
represent outer space in functional terms, and are more home to the field of Astronomy
than to Geography.
Weather refers to the atmospheric conditions for a specific place and time. For example,
at the very same moment Los Angeles’ weather may be different than that of nearby
Pasadena, CA. Weather also changes constantly over time. It may well be raining one
moment only to have the skies clear a few minutes later. Some of the ways we describe
these atmospheric conditions are by observing, measuring and recording the following:
1. Temperature
2. Precipitation
3. Cloud cover
4. Humidity
6. Atmospheric Pressure
Climate is the atmospheric condition for a large area over a long period of time and
involves monthly maximums and minimums of mostly Temperature and Precipitation.
Duration is the key difference between weather and climate, with weather being shorter
in duration and climate being much longer (typically 30 years or more). Though
Pasadena and Glendale, CA have slightly different weather at any moment, they have the
same type of climate known as Mediterranean.
1. Latitude
In general, it is colder at the poles and warmer in the tropics. This is largely a result of
the sun’s energy being received towards the equator, with less solar energy reaching the
polar regions. The following image (for April 2005) clearly shows that it is warmer
(lighter colors) towards the tropics and colder (dark blue tones) towards the poles, which
can be expected in a general sense throughout the year.
2. Elevation
In general, high elevation places tend to be colder than places at or below sea level. High
mountains like California’s Mount Whitney (14,494’ elevation) are cold and dry places,
while the adjacent Owens Valley (approx. 4-5,000’ elevation) tends to be much warmer.
The same is true of the foothills of South America’s Andes mountain chain. The lower
foothills are much warmer than the high snow-packed peaks, as shown in this photo from
Argentina’s El Chaltén region.
Source: http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/products/Global_Monsoons/gl_obs.shtml
6. Oceanic Circulation
Likewise, our oceans have a natural circulation pattern which in many ways mirrors our
wind patterns. Northern Hemisphere currents turn constantly towards their right,
resulting in a clockwise circulation pattern. This means warm equatorial waters will be
driven towards Florida along the current known as the Gulf Stream. The warm, moist air
above this current is pulled inland, giving Florida warm, humid summers with afternoon
thunderstorms. Conversely, the West Coast of the USA is under the influence of the cold
water California Current, resulting in cool, stable air masses along the coast (this may
give morning fog but not afternoon thunderstorms in the summer).
7. Storms
There is a pattern to the location of storms and the paths they follow, which we refer to as
“storm tracks.” Some places like Seattle, WA are located smack in the middle of storm
tracks, giving them year-round potential for rainfall. Conversely, places like San Diego,
CA are located on the edge of these storm tracks, resulting in less rainfall as the storms
only reach them in the midst of winter.
Source: http://www.erh.noaa.gov/btv/images/us_pcpn.png
When, on a hot summer day, the local television weather reporter exclaims “Whoa, we’re
going to have a high of 40 degrees today”, what does he/she really mean? There’s a big
difference between 40 degrees Celsius and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Furthermore, what are
we really measuring when we take the temperature? What exactly is solar radiation, and
how can it still feel ‘hot’ even after traveling 93 million miles from the sun? What
happens to this energy once it reaches the Earth? Why is the sky blue at noon and
orange-red at sunset? Let’s get into the details so we can answer these questions and
more.
This heat energy can be measured using a simple thermometer, which consists of a
volume of fluid with known behavior (usually alcohol or Mercury) sealed within a long
glass vacuum enclosure. Let’s take this device outside on a cold winter morning. As the
sun rises and heats the atmosphere, some of this heat is conducted through the glass and
into the fluid, so the molecules begin to collide more and the fluid expands in volume.
The fluid then rises into the long tube, and we can mark off the point at which ice begins
to melt. We’ll mark this point on the thermometer and call this “zero”. We could then
take our device inside and put it inside a pot of boiling water. If we mark off the place on
the thermometer where the contained fluid level has risen to as the water boils, we can
call this “one grade”. So, 1 grade is the difference in temperature between ice melting
and water boiling, and our thermometer can clearly show this difference based on the
height of the fluid.
We can then divide this ‘grade’ into 100 equal parts, each of them representing 1 degree
Centigrade (‘centi’ means one hundredth of a unit, just as a centimeter is a 100th of a
meter). This also means that water melts/freezes at 0 degrees Centigrade and water boils
at 100 degrees Centigrade. Centigrade is also known as Celsius, based on the founder of
this system of measuring temperature, and is abbreviated as ºC.
The USA insists on being just about the only remaining country on Earth to use an older
system of temperature measurement known as the Fahrenheit (or ºF) scale. In this scale,
water boils at 212ºF and freezes/melts at 32ºF.
So Insolation is electromagnetic radiation emitted from the sun which then travels across
space towards Earth. A very small portion (0.5 of a billionth of the energy released from
the sun) actually reaches the Earth. By this time the solar energy has traveled about 93
million miles in an average time of 8.3 minutes.
ELECTROMAGNETIC SPECTRUM
The energy from the sun travels across space mostly in the form of a package of
electromagnetic waves, each with a different wavelength, frequency (number of waves
emitted per second) and energy. Wavelength (λ) is the most common way of
differentiating the types of electromagnetic waves, and is defined as the distance between
the crest of two successive waves (see below).
Only super-hot objects like stars (including our sun) are capable of emitting short, high-
energy wavelengths like gamma rays, x-rays, ultraviolet and visible light. Lucky for us,
our upper atmosphere absorbs or reflects away almost all of these potentially-dangerous
wavelengths, but some of this high-intensity radiation does make it through to the earth’s
surface, especially some of the ultraviolet wavelengths as well as the visible portion of
the spectrum. These wavelengths with the ability to pass (to be transmitted) through the
atmosphere are referred to as "atmospheric windows." As the following diagram shows,
Source: http://mynasadata.larc.nasa.gov/images/EM_Spectrum3-new.jpg
The longer wavelengths of the insolation (infrared, microwave, and radio waves) are
harmless to humans. We can’t see them, and for the most part we don’t feel them, but
think about this. When you go for a fun afternoon at the beach, you apply sunscreen and
settle onto your beach blanket. Looking up towards the sky you can see the bright yellow
sun and a blue sky (among other things). In this case your eyes are making sense of the
visible wavelengths. You feel the warmth of the sun on your skin, which means your
body is sensing the presence of infrared wavelengths. Finally, if you didn’t put enough
sunscreen on, you might find your exposed skin to be a little sunburned later that
evening. This is the effect of prolonged exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet wavelengths
(UV-A and UV-B).
The central portion of the spectrum contains wavelengths known as visible light, and this
portion of the spectrum can itself be divided into separate wavelengths, each representing
a specific color of the rainbow. The longest-wavelength of the visible portion of the
© Text Copyright 2018 Darren Leaver
spectrum is Red while the shortest-wavelength portion is Violet. From red to violet the
wavelengths get progressively shorter, with a resulting color order of Red, Orange,
Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo and finally Violet. This is often remembered by the
acronym Roy G. Biv.
It is important to remember that this is the only portion of the electromagnetic spectrum
that our eyes can see. If a wavelength is shorter than that of violet, the wavelength would
be in the ultraviolet portion of the spectrum, which is invisible to us. Wavelengths
slightly longer than those of the color red would fall into the infrared portion of the
spectrum, and again these would be invisible to us.
The sun sends all of these individual visible wavelengths towards earth as part of the
beam of insolation. For astronauts viewing this energy beyond the top of our atmosphere,
the sun would appear bright white in color. This is because the cumulative result of
adding all the visible wavelengths together (from red to violet) is the color white. The
reason we don’t see a brilliant white sun down on the earth’s surface will be explained
shortly. For now, we’ll conclude our discussion of visible light by asking the question
“what makes a green t-shirt green?” Have you ever thought about that? Many of us
would just say “it’s easy…it’s because the shirt is green, silly!” But I can easily turn
your green shirt to a dark black color by placing it in a dark room and closing the doors
and windows! So, to make a green shirt appear green in color, we need a source of light.
In a lighted situation, especially in sunlight, the specific materials and pigments that the
shirt was manufactured from absorb most other wavelengths and reflect the green
wavelengths back to our eyes. Our eyes and brain recognize the reflected “green”
wavelength as the color green. More about reflection and absorption a little later, but let
me leave you with this thought: Would an object which is white in color represent more,
or less reflection than an object that is black in color?
Radiation Laws
Wein’s Law states that the hotter a celestial body (a star or planet), the shorter the peak
wavelength of radiation emitted by that body. This means that since the sun is much
hotter than the earth (11,000°F at the surface), the sun emits much shorter peak
wavelengths than does earth (with an average surface temperature of 60°F).
In fact, visible light accounts for fully half of the wavelengths emitted from the sun, with
an additional 7% emitted in the ultraviolet and shorter wavelengths, so we classify the
sun as an emitter of short wavelength radiation.
However, this solar energy still has to make it through the atmosphere in order for us to
feel it, but not all of this energy will make it through to the surface of the Earth.
http://www.srh.weather.gov/jetstream/atmos/energy_balance.htm
Here’s a good NASA link describing reflection and absorption, among other astronomical
phenomena https://science.nasa.gov/ems/13_radiationbudget
Since the atmosphere reflects 25% of the available insolation, and the earth’s surface
reflects 6% of the insolation, the total percentage of insolation that earth reflects back to
space (known as earth’s albedo) is 31 percent.
4% absorbed by clouds
19% absorbed by rest of atmosphere
46% absorbed by earth’s surface
4 + 19 + 46 = 69% absorbed
3. Scattering (aka Diffusion Radiation) refers to the process where short wavelengths are
“bounced off” the main beam of insolation by nitrogen, oxygen, and especially by small
particulate matter (dust, soot, ice, ash and salt) in the atmosphere, leaving only the longer
wavelengths in the incoming beam of radiation.
During daytime hours, the sun’s rays pass through a thin layer of
atmosphere, so the sun appears yellow as dust in the atmosphere
scatters away only short wavelengths (v-i-b) and leaves longer
wavelengths (g-y-o-r) to be viewed by us.
At sunrise and sunset, the sun’s rays must travel a longer path
through the atmosphere, and much of this path is through layers
containing lots of particulate matter. Almost all of the
wavelengths are scattered away, leaving an orange-red sun with a
yellow-orange sky.
So the Earth ultimately reflects about 31% of the solar energy available to us back into
space, and we absorb about 69%. This energy is not absorbed equally on the planet, and
it makes sense that the tropical regions would absorb more than polar locations. In fact,
there is a general surplus of energy being absorbed in the tropical and sub-tropical
regions (approximately 30N to 30S) and a general deficit of energy absorbed pole-ward
of 30N and 30S. With this in mind, it would appear logical that the tropical regions
should be warming up and the polar regions (with an energy deficit) should be cooling
down. The reality is quite different. The tropical regions are indeed warming up, but the
polar regions are warming up faster than all other places on earth. The reason for this is
that energy received in the tropical regions is being transferred towards the poles.
The Earth has the following mechanisms to transfer energy away from places where the
energy is absorbed so that these regions never get too hot (the first three are described
quite well in the following link. https://www.weather.gov/jetstream/heat
1. Re-radiation: Earth absorbs (captures) insolation, warms up, then emits long
wavelengths back to space. Again, since most energy is absorbed at the earth’s
surface, re-radiation allows the surface to cool down by transferring energy to the
bottom of the atmosphere as long wavelengths are emitted. The effect is that the
lower atmosphere tends to warm from the bottom-up.
3. Atmospheric Convection is the vertical and horizontal mixing of air. Warm air is
less dense, therefore more buoyant, and wants to rise. As the warm air rises it pulls in
4. Latent (hidden) Heat Transfer involves a phase change of water from a solid, liquid
or gas. In essence, it requires energy to turn ice into liquid water, or to turn liquid
water into water vapor (a gas). The energy required to do this stays with the higher
phase (form) of water. For example, a tremendous amount of solar energy is required
to evaporate water into water vapor. When this occurs, the energy cannot be seen but
is in fact ‘hidden’ in the evaporated water molecules, which are now vibrating and
colliding much more frequently. When the air containing the vapor rises and cools,
the vapor may condense, forming a cloud of suspended liquid droplets. The energy
that was absorbed as the water was evaporated at the surface is now released into the
cloud as the water vapor condenses. This is a very effective way of transferring
energy.
Focus on Distance from a Large Water Body: Maritime vs. Continental Locations
Places located along the coastline of an ocean, sea or large lake usually have a year-round
abundance of moisture in the air. The presence of moisture influences not only the
annual rainfall amounts of coastal locations, but also affects their temperature. Coastal
(Maritime) locations tend to have mild summer temperatures, mild winter temperatures,
mild temperatures at sunrise, and mild temperatures in the middle of the afternoon. In
essence, the presence of moisture in the air means that temperatures don’t get too hot or
too cold when compared to inland (Continental) locations. This can be measured in a
couple of main ways, notably the Annual Temperature Range (ATR) and Daily
Temperature Range (DTR).
Here’s a Climograph showing the annual pattern of rainfall (bars) and temperature (line)
for downtown Los Angeles. As for most places on the planet, the highest average
monthly temperatures are experienced a month or two after the summer solstice, with the
minimum average monthly temperatures being recorded a month or two after the winter
solstice. For downtown Los Angeles, these months are August-September and January-
February, respectively.
Check out the following link and determine the ATR’s for four Central California places
(the list is sorted alphabetically): Monterey, Fresno, Mammoth Lakes, and Death Valley.
http://ggweather.com/normals/CA.html
Do you notice a trend at all? Do you think there might be a test question about this?
A second way to quantify the effect of moisture in the air is through Daily Temperature
range (DTR), which is the maximum temperature for a day minus the low temperature
for a day. The DTR for Santa Monica, just like the ATR, is lower than that of an inland
city like Pasadena, and much lower than Palm Springs. The graph below (source
unknown) shows that most places, all other things being equal, get their minimum daily
temperature right around sunrise (note that sunrise is earlier in the summer and later in
the winter). The maximum daily temperature is usually received in the middle of the
For August 27, 2011, Santa Monica’s DTR was 5F (70-65), Pasadena’s was 29F (103-
74), Riverside’s was 37F (108-71) and Palm Springs’ DTR was 23F (112-89). The lower
than expected DTR for Palm Springs was due to the presence of moisture sneeking in
from the Gulf of California, making the air a little more moist and providing some
localized thunderstorms. This shows that although we can make sense of the atmosphere,
it is a very fluid environment with many variables to consider at any given moment. This
is why predicting the weather is so delicate, and often wrong! We’ll explore these
complexities in the upcoming chapters.
These same mountain barriers can have an enormous impact on temperature, creating
very hot temperatures on the leeward side under certain conditions. For example, a
spring-time storm may bring cool weather to Los Angeles along with wet weather to the
San Gabriel Mountains above the city, but this same storm may help create warmer and
dry conditions on the leeward side of the mountains, even at slightly higher elevation.
The reason for this is that as the air rises over the mountains on the windward side, it
tends to cool and water vapor condenses to form clouds. As the process of condensation
progresses, latent heat is released into the forming cloud, so that the rising air cools very
slowly.
In fact, condensing air tends to cool at a rate of approximately 3°F for every 1,000 feet of
elevation gain, while air that rises without any water condensing out cools at a much
faster rate of 5.5°F per thousand feet of elevation gain. Air that sinks never forms clouds,
so this air will warm up at a rate of 5.5F per thousand feet of elevation loss.
So why does rising air cool down in the first place? The answer is because of Adiabatic
Cooling, the change in heat energy due to the changing density of rising air. To fully
comprehend this, we have to remember that heat energy is related to the vibrations and
collisions of molecules. Air that rises from the earth’s surface experiences lower air
pressure and tends to expand as a result of this lowered air pressure. The molecules
within this air now tend to vibrate and collide less often, so the air cools down.
Conversely, air that sinks in the atmosphere is ‘crushed’ tighter together as it descends.
The higher pressure means that molecules tend to collide and vibrate more often,
resulting in higher temperatures (this is called Adiabatic Heating). So, why does air
cool quickly when it rises without forming clouds, but that same air cools slowly when it
rises while forming clouds? I’ll leave the answer to you…but I know you can find it!
Our atmosphere extends hundreds of miles out from the earth’s surface, though most
scientists agree by the time you get about 100km (62 miles) from the surface there are
very few molecules remaining. In fact, about 95% of the atmosphere’s molecules are
found in the bottom 16 miles, and 50% of the molecules are found in the lowest 4 miles
of the atmosphere. In fact, people who climb mountains 4 miles (about 23,000 feet) high
are breathing air with only half as many molecules (including oxygen) as compared to sea
level, which makes it very difficult to breath or even think straight at those elevations.
So how do we measure this air pressure? Well, back in the early 1600’s
a number of early scientists were experimenting with long water-filled
tubes in a quest to create a vacuum within the tube. The debates which
followed spurned Torricelli to argue that the atmosphere indeed had
weight (a novel concept at the time) which he proved by using a tube
filled with Mercury rather than water. Mercury (Hg) is a heavy metal
which is liquid at most temperatures on Earth and about 14 times the
weight of water, so a much shorter glass tube can be used. Torricelli’s
invention, known as a Mercury Barometer, allowed people to measure
the “weight” or “pressure” of the atmosphere in relation to the height of
Mercury being pushed up within the tube by the force of the atmosphere
outside the tube (see the diagram to the right). The atmosphere’s weight
pushes down on the glass tube (a vacuum tube) and the mercury level
rises. Note that if the atmosphere pushes down harder than normal, the
height of the mercury within the tube will get higher. Mercury
Barometer
If we used a barometer to measure atmospheric pressure at multiple places over the planet
and calibrated for sea-level, we would find the average seal-level air pressure for Earth.
Average atmospheric pressure (at sea level)
76 cm Hg
760 mm Hg
29.92 inches Hg
14.7 psi (pounds per square inch)
1 bar (or 1 atmosphere)
1,000 millibars (mb) or more accurately…1,013.25 mb
1,013.25 hectopascals (hPa)
Every square inch of your body has 14.7 psi of air pressure pushing in from all directions.
We don’t crush inwards because our bodies have adapted by pushing outwards with the
same force. However, if we travel quickly to high elevations (where there’s less air
pressure) we find our bodies don’t quickly adapt to the lower air pressure.
High pressure is defined as air pressure significantly higher than the average for the
surrounding area. We can over-generalize here and say that High Pressure is that which
is greater than 1013.25mb. We can locate areas of high pressure by taking a barometer
reading at the surface of the earth and then re-calculating this for elevation (we
recalculate to see what the pressure would be if we were at sea level). What we find are
central areas of high pressure (called High Pressure
Cells if circular in shape or High Pressure Ridges if
linear). Within High Pressure Cells the air is sinking
and warming up as it descends, creating clear skies.
High pressure cells are also known as Anticyclones,
and are partly responsible for the presence of smoggy
days in Los Angeles as well as the formation of dry
Santa Ana winds.
The isobar contour interval on the map is 3mb, which is not always the case. Where the
isobars are located close together the pressure is changing quickly over a short distance
(let’s say in 100 miles), and where the isobars are spaced far apart, the pressure doesn’t
change much over that same 100 miles. This rate of change of atmospheric pressure per
unit distance is referred to as the Pressure Gradient. If the Pressure Gradient is large,
this means that in a small geographic area there are places with much different
atmospheric pressure, and nature will want to even this difference out quickly by moving
extra air molecules from the area of higher pressure towards the area of lower pressure.
The greater the difference in pressure between two nearby places (shown by closely-
spaced isobars), the greater is the rush of molecules. The force of air molecules from
Here’s a National Weather Service map showing atmospheric pressure over the USA in
October 2006. Can you clearly see the high and low pressure areas as well as the
corresponding isobars? What is the isobar contour interval for this map?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeY9tY9vKgs&feature=related
The Coriolis force is the greatest at the POLES and with FAST WINDS. There is no
bending at the equator or with air that is standing still (not moving). Essentially, air
moving just north of the equator will be bent slightly to the right by the Coriolis Force.
Air in the Mid-Latitudes will feel a stronger force bending to the right, and air at the
poles will feel the strongest influence of the Coriolis Force.
So air moving horizontally (wind) within the troposphere feels the following all at once:
1. Gravity, pulling air molecules towards earth’s surface
2. The Pressure Gradient Force, sending air molecules away from high pressure and
towards low pressure, thereby creating wind
3. Friction, slowing the wind as it ‘drags’ along the earth’s surface. Friction is
insignificant for high-altitude winds.
4. The Coriolis Force, bending the wind to the right of its intended path in the
Northern Hemisphere and to the left in the Southern Hemisphere. This force is
strongest at the Poles and for fast wind speeds.
It is the surface winds around low pressure centers which are more difficult to envision,
but let’s give it a shot. Wind moving across the surface (friction layer) towards a Low
Pressure Center in the Northern Hemisphere will feel a tug-of-way effect between the
opposing forces of the PGF and the Coriolis Force. The PGF will try to pull the air
molecules in the Low Pressure Center, while the Coriolis Force will try to bend the air to
the right. Since friction slows surface winds down, the PGF is stronger than the Coriolis
Force, and the net effect is a slight bending towards the left. This bending motion
increases as the air gets closer and closer to the Low pressure Center, where the air
ultimately rises with an inward, counter-clockwise spiral motion that we call Cyclonic.
The net result is that air moving across the surface (friction layer) in the Northern
Hemisphere produces the following realities:
Areas of low pressure (where the air is rising, cooling, and forming clouds) rotate
counter-clockwise with an inward spiral, what we refer to as Cyclonic Flow.
Areas of high pressure (where the air is sinking from clear skies and warming
adiabatically) rotate clockwise with an outward spiral, what we call Anticyclonic
Flow.
http://www.srh.weather.gov/jetstream/global/circ.htm
The diagram above and text (below) from the National Weather Service identify three
distinct atmospheric circulations cells known as the:
1. Hadley cell – A large convection cell with rising air at the equator which then diverges at high
altitude, producing upper-air flow away from the equator. This air descends to create a high
pressure zone in the sub-tropics. Air then flows back along the earth’s surface from the subtropics
to the equator, providing air flow for the Trade Winds.
2. Ferrel cell - A mid-latitude cell with descending air in the sub-tropics and rising air in the sub-
polar regions. The surface air flow between the high and low pressure areas powers the Westerly
winds of the mid-latitudes.
3. Polar cell - Air rising in the sub-polar regions splits at high altitude, with a portion of that air
flowing towards the poles where it sinks in a vortex. This sinking air creates a zone of high
pressure at the poles which in turn powers the polar easterly winds as surface air attempts to return
to low pressure in the sub-polar region.
The model of the Hadley, Ferrel and Polar Cells explains the presence of major global
pressure belts located at the equator and every 30 degrees of latitude from there. These
seven global pressure belts can be identified as follows:
Inter Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ): a.k.a. Equatorial Low or Doldrums. This is
a zone of low pressure located at the equator. The low pressure means rising air, which
cools on its way up, producing clouds and rain. Because of this the equator is one of the
wettest regions in the world.
Sub Tropical High Pressure Zone (STHPZ): There are two zones of high pressure
located approximately 30 degrees north and south of the equator. These areas of high
Sub Polar Low Pressure Zone: These zones, associated with both the Polar Front and
the Polar Jet Stream, are located approximately 60 degrees north and south of the equator.
These are zones of rising air which produce year-round moisture, especially along the
western coastlines of continents at these
latitudes. The Sub-Polar Low separates
warm air on the equatorial side from very
cold, dry air on the polar side. Also of note is
the location of the Polar Jet Stream, a fast,
eastward-moving river of air located about
40,000 feet in the troposphere directly above
the Sub-Polar Low. This river of air can
easily travel 100-150 mph, and can push jet
Polar High Pressure Zone: These are zones of very cold, very dry air descending at the
North and South Poles. The descending air precludes the presence of clouds at the poles,
in essence making these areas very cold deserts.
The air that descends from the Polar High and Sub-Tropical High pressure belts moves
across the earth surface towards the low pressure belts, feeling the bending effect of the
Coriolis Force along the way. We are able to recognize six global wind belts located
between the pressure belts as follows:
Northeast Trade Winds: The air that sinks at the Northern Hemisphere’s Sub-Tropical
High Pressure Zone diverges in all directions once it nears the earth’s surface. The
portion of this air flow which moves south, towards the equator, is bent slightly to the
right by the Coriolis Force (remember that this force is not very strong near the equator).
This slight bending effect results in a steady flow of warm wind blowing from the
northeast between approximately 30°N and the equator.
Southeast Trade Winds: These winds are the Southern Hemisphere’s trade wind,
blowing from a southeast direction between 30°S and the equator. The Southeast Trades
and the Northeast Trades converge at the equator, where the air rises in the Inter Tropical
Convergence Zone.
Prevailing Westerlies: The Prevailing Westerlies (or just Westerlies for short) are
located in both hemispheres between approximately 30°N and 60°N and 30°S and 60°S.
They originate from air that descended in the STHPZ and then flowed poleward. The
Coriolis Force is stronger in the mid-latitudes, so the poleward-moving air gets bent more
than in the tropics, resulting in a strong wind pattern coming from the west. The
Prevailing Westerlies in the Northern Hemisphere explain many weather patterns
affecting California, especially our winter storms which are pushed along by these winds.
.
Polar Easterlies: These wind belts are located between the Poles and 60 degress latitude
in both hemispheres. They are formed when air sinking in the Polar Highs diverges in all
directions (equatorward). At high latitude the Coriolis Force exerts maximum influence,
so the very cold, flowing air is bent so much that the resulting wind comes from the east
and encircles the poles.
Here’s a link to help visualize the pattern of global wind and pressure belts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWHwp75aBZo
Our summer months are dominated by the Sub-Tropical High Pressure Zone. By July-
August the wind and pressure belts have migrated north and Los Angeles comes under
the influence of the Sub Tropical High Pressure Belt. During these months LA is
typically under the influence of sinking, dry air, so there are few if any clouds present.
With a clear sky and a strong sun overhead for many hours of the day, it’s no surprise we
see very hot temperatures during the midst of summer. Of further
note is that the summertime high pressure tends to trap air between
the ocean and the mountains for days or even weeks. As we burn
fuel and release exhaust into the air from our local industries or as
we commute to school, work or to the beach, the sun converts the
exhaust into a toxic smog which we all breathe in. The smog only
dissipates once the high pressure system breaks down or moves out
of the area.
Photo courtesy of California Air Resources Board
http://www.aqmd.gov/news1/Archives/History/marchcov.html#The Arrival of Air Pollution
The previous section focused on global wind and pressure zones, but there are also
hundreds of winds that affect only local areas of the planet. Some of these have great
names like the ‘Sirocco’ which blows between North Africa and Mediterranean Europe,
the ‘Nor’easter’ of New England, and the ‘Diablo’ winds of San Francisco, CA. Check
out this link for details on many local winds: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_local_winds.
I’ll go ahead and describe a few local winds below, as these are world-famous or have a
potential to affect Southern California.
Monsoons
Monsoons are winds that reverse direction with the seasons, bringing summer rains and
winter drought. The summer wet monsoon brings heavy downpours of rain for weeks on
end, as the winds blow from the ocean to the land during these months. The opposite is
true in winter, where the dry monsoon blows cool, arid air from the land to the ocean.
Monsoons occur in several places on earth, but the most famous are the monsoons of
South Asia (India and neighbors).
Other areas with monsoon winds include Southeast Asia, northern Australia, and West
Africa. Some would argue that the southwest USA and northern Mexico have a monsoon
(named the North American Monsoon), but others would argue there is insufficient
seasonal wind reversal to call this a true monsoon. This area does experience heavy
convective thunderstorms in the summer months as the desert Southwest heats the air and
pulls in moisture from the Gulf of Mexico and Gulf of California. The thunderstorms are
largely restricted to the Mojave, Sonora and Colorado Deserts, but they can reach as far
as California’s Peninsula Ranges, San Gabriel Mountains and San Bernardino Mountains.
Top of a Mojave Desert Thunderstorm cloud as seen from Glendale College, CA in early Sept. 2011
Photo Courtesy of Catherine Crawford
Land heats up faster and to higher temperatures than water when both are exposed to
sunlight. It’s also true that land cools down faster and to much cooler temperatures than
water does once the sun has set. The main reasons for this are that:
1. Water allows the sun's rays to penetrate deep into the ocean (up to 650 feet in
ideal conditions) so the energy from the sun is absorbed within this entire
thickness of water. On the other hand land absorbs the sun’s energy only at the
very surface, allowing the land surface to heat up much faster.
2. Water’s physical properties are such that it takes 1 calorie of energy to raise the
temperature of 1 gram of water by 1 degree Celsius. On average, it takes only
about 0.2 calories of energy to raise the temperature of 1 gram of soil or rock
material the same 1 degree Celsius. So it takes five times less energy to get the
land surface to heat up compared to the ocean surface.
3. If the water surface gets too hot it begins to mix (via convection) with cooler
water from below, thereby making the surface water more moderate in
temperature. Land surfaces are not able to convect, so very hot land surfaces
remain hotter than water surfaces throughout the afternoon hours.
Sea Breeze: The diagram shows a heated daytime land surface with associated Low Pressure (1), strong Sea Breeze
(2), rising air above the land (3), upper-level divergence (4), upper-level return air flow (5), sinking of cool air (6) into
High Pressure over the ocean (7), which completes the circulation cell and further promotes the sea Breeze (2).
Once the sun has set the land surface cools much faster than the ocean, so by the early
morning hours the land can actually be slightly cooler than the ocean surface. The
accompanying pressure differential promotes air to gently rise over the ocean, creating a
mild breeze from the land to the ocean known as a Land Breeze. Land Breezes are most
common in the early morning hours because sunrise offers the best opportunity for the
land to have cooled down below the temperature of the adjacent ocean.
Here’s a quick (slightly funky) link describing Sea Breezes and Land Breezes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQV72Yzmjyc
By the time the winds reach the Los Angeles area’s coastline the relative humidity of the
air can be below 10 percent, and during Santa Ana conditions it may well be hotter along
the coast than in the deserts. The influx of warm air to the coastline also means that the
average September temperatures for some coastal cities are almost as high as they are for
August. The excessive wind, heat, and aridity brought by the Santa Ana winds creates a
recipe for extreme fire danger, with massive wildfires common throughout Southern
California in late Fall each year. Check out the following link for a glimpse of the
damage. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0PGfcD6V1U&feature=fvsr
Still, the total volume of water on earth represents a tiny fraction when compared to the total
volume of the earth’s lithosphere ash shown in the United States Geological Survey (USGS)
image to the right. In the image, the size of each
sphere represents the volume of the earth and the
volume of water (total water, liquid fresh water, and
freshwater lakes/rivers)
http://ga.water.usgs.gov/edu/waterdistribution.html.
Note: The ocean areas include smaller “seas” like the Mediterranean Sea. However, some ‘seas’
are not really qualified to receive that title. For instance, the “Caspian Sea” is not a sea, but is
instead the world’s largest lake. To be a ‘sea’ the saltwater must connect directly to an ocean, or
to another sea that ultimately connects to an ocean, and this is not the case for the Caspian.
Phases of Water
There are three phases of water on Earth: solid, liquid, and vapor (or gas). Water easily changes
from one phase or another, and there are some specific terms we use to describe these phase
changes.
The transformation of water vapor to solid ice is called sublimation or deposition. This takes
place in the atmosphere as water vapor transforms into snow or hail. As the process occurs,
latent energy is released into the cloud.
The reciprocal process, where ice transforms directly into water vapor is called sublimation.
This process occurs in very dry, cold air which is exposed to the sun, especially in the polar
regions. It’s not possible to see water vapor, so you cannot see sublimation occur. However,
you’d probably be able to see that over time the thickness of ice diminishes (from the surface on
down) when sublimation occurs. It takes a tremendous amount of solar energy to transform ice
into water vapor.
The transformation of liquid water into ice is called freezing, a process which releases latent heat
energy into the environment, especially on cold mornings and during the winter. The reciprocal
process of transforming ice into liquid water is called melting. This is very common during the
spring season, when sunlight and heat allow for the melting of winter snows.
Water is constantly moved within the hydrosphere, as well as between the four Geographic
Spheres in what we call the Hydrologic Cycle. There’s a great NASA website describing this
cycle at http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/Features/Water/page2.php.
The largest source of atmospheric moisture is via evaporation from the oceans and seas. The
great majority of this moisture falls back to the surface of the oceans, but according to the US
Geological Survey (http://ga.water.usgs.gov/edu/watercycleevaporation.html) about 10 percent
of the water evaporated from the oceans advects (moves horizontally) from above the oceans
towards the land, where it falls as precipitation. The hydrologic cycle details this movement of
earth’s water, and includes the following elements:
• Infiltration and Percolation are terms used to describe the movement of water as it seeps into the pores and
cracks of both soil and rock material.
• Evaporation is the change of phase of water from a liquid surface to a vapor (gas).
• Evapotranspiration is when water changes from liquid to vapor after being stored in Earth’s land materials
(i.e. trees, soil, and rocks). Note: Evapotranspiration includes transpiration
• Condensation is the process where water vapor in a parcel of rising air cools to its Dew Point temperature
and transforms into liquid water droplets. These droplets are held aloft by the rising air, creating a cloud.
• Precipitation is when moisture FALLS through the atmosphere (rain is the most common form).
The following links do a nice job of visualizing this movement of water in the hydrologic cycle.
1. http://pmm.nasa.gov/education/videos/tour-water-cycle
2. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvQPPXhvJ_Y&feature=results_main&playnext=1&list=PL2
3C6F3C3DD7D79AE
3. https://www.weather.gov/jetstream/hydro
Relative Humidity (RH) refers to how much moisture is actually in the air in relation to how
much moisture the air can possibly hold
The formula RH = AMR x 100/SMR puts this concept into mathematical terms.
AMR is the Actual Mixing Ratio, defined as the amount of moisture actually in the air per unit
volume. The AMR will remain constant unless there is evaporation or condensation. In other
words, if you have 4 grams of moisture in the air, that won’t change unless more water is
evaporated into it, moisture is condensed out of it, or another air mass (wetter or drier) mixes
with it.
SMR is the Saturation Mixing Ratio, which refers to the amount of moisture the air could hold
if completely saturated.
Relative Humidity is just a comparison of how much water vapor is actually in the air compared
to how much water vapor the air could possibly hold. As an example, think of a car that has 8
gallons of gas in it but can hold 16 gallons. How full is the gas tank? The solution is 8/16 x 100
= 50%, meaning the gas tank is holding half the amount it can possibly hold. Instead of a car’s
gas tank, think of an air mass which actually contains 8 units of water vapor but could hold 16
The only difference is that, unlike a car’s gas tank, air’s ability to hold water vapor (SMR)
increases as temperature increases. This makes sense if you think about it, because as air warms
up the molecules move further apart, creating more room for other gases, especially water vapor.
This relationship between SMR and temperature is made evident by the following graph which
shows that SMR increases as temperature rises (warmer air has the ability to hold more moisture
since warming air expands and provides more room for water vapor to be present).
SMR
Temperature
The graph also points out that as air cools down its ability to hold water vapor decreases. The
implication of this is that any air containing water vapor can be cooled down to the point that it
can no longer hold the water vapor, which gets ‘kicked out’ and transformed into either a liquid
(through condensation) or a solid (through deposition).
The fastest way to cool air down naturally is to have it rise into the atmosphere. As the air cools
its AMR stays constant, while the SMR continually decreases. At some critical point, the SMR
will have decreased to the point where the amount of water vapor the air can possibly hold is
equal to the amount of water vapor actually in the air. When this occurs it means the Relative
Humidity has reached 100%, and with the air completely saturated with water vapor several
things occur all at once:
1. AMR = SMR
2. Relative Humidity = 100%
3. Dew Point Temperature has been reached (temperature required for saturation)
4. Lifting Condensation Level (LCL) has been reached (elevation required for saturation)
5. CONDENSATION BEGINS…and clouds begin to form
The main ways to get air to rise into the atmosphere and cool enough to form clouds are:
• Convective Uplift, the rising of warm surface air due to thermal properties.
STEPS TO PRECIPITATION
The following steps are required in order for clouds to form and precipitation to occur from
rising air.
1. Dirty, moist air. In order for precipitation to occur we must begin with air containing both
moisture and small dust particles called hygroscopic nuclei or condensation nuclei.
2. Rising and cooling: The air must then rise and cool.
3. Condensation: Once the air has cooled to its Dew Point Temperature, the air is saturated,
RH is 100%, LCL has been reached, and clouds begin to form as the condenses from a vapor to
small liquid droplets.
4. Droplet Growth: The air continues to rise, forming more droplets which coalesce (bump and
join together) to form larger drops of water.
5. Precipitation: Finally the drops get so large they can no longer be kept afloat by the rising air,
and they begin to fall to earth. The moisture falling down through the atmosphere is called
precipitation, which comes in 5 main varieties.
TYPES OF PRECIPITATION
There are many forms of precipitation encountered in the atmosphere. We can define these
different types of precipitation by the average size of the water drops, as when we differentiate
rain from drizzle, and we can further differentiate types of precipitation based on whether they
are comprised of liquid water, solid ice, or a combination of both. The following represent the
most common forms of precipitation:
Rain
Liquid precipitation with an average diameter greater
than 0.5mm is referred to as rain. Rain is the most
common form of precipitation and is especially
prevalent near the equator. Since rain drops can be
quite large and thus they can fall at considerable speed,
they tend to have an aerodynamic tear-drop shape.
Winter rain which falls through the atmosphere with a
freezing layer just above the ground tends to instantly
freeze the rain, producing a treacherous frozen rain.
Snow
Snow is solid precipitation which formed from deposition of
water vapor directly into ice crystals within a very cold cloud.
Snow is most common at high altitude and high latitude,
especially during the cold winter months. Though there are
multiple varieties of snow based on the temperature of the air
when it formed, each and every crystal of snow has a
hexagonal (6-sided) shape.
Sleet
If falling snowflakes encounter a layer of warm air during their
descent, the snow will partially melt and reach the surface as
pellets composed of both ice and water (slush) called sleet.
Sleet is most common during winter in the mid-latitudes.
Hail
The National Weather Service defines hail as “Showery
precipitation in the form of irregular pellets or balls of ice more
than 5 mm in diameter, falling from a cumulonimbus cloud”.
The irregular pellets have a concentric pattern, formed from
multiple cycles of growth as the ice is repeatedly lifted and
forced downwards within the cumulonimbus cloud. Each time a
hail stone is carried higher by the updraft it grows in size as it
collides with supercooled raindrops or other pieces of hail. The
hailstone then falls downwards and either exits the cloud or is pulled back upwards again by the
strong updraft within the cloud. When the updraft can no longer lift the falling hailstone back for
another cycle, it falls to the earth as hail.
The stronger the updraft, the larger the hailstones produced.
Though the minimum size is 5mm (0.2-inch) in diameter it is not
unusual for hail to exceed one inch in diameter, and the record
diameter for hail is 8.0 inches! Updraft speeds within a hail cloud
must exceed 100mph to form softball-size hail, so this enormous
hail must fall to earth at an even faster speed. A description of
hail-related hazards (including fatal grapefruit-size hail), can be
found at https://www.weather.gov/jetstream/hail.
© Text Copyright 2018 Darren Leaver
The World Record size for a confirmed hailstone
is 8 inches which fell during a severe thunderstorm
in the town of Vivian, South Dakota on July 23,
2010. The hailstone weighed just less than two
pounds and had a circumference of 18.62 inches.
https://www.webcitation.org/5rhd1coDR?url=http://www.crh.noaa.gov/abr/?n=stormdamagetemplate
The most common place in the world to observe large hail is in the Great Plains and Rocky
Mountain states of the USA. In these locations, especially in the months of spring and early
summer, cold arctic air moving south can readily collide with warm tropical air moving north,
creating ideal conditions for thunder storm development and hail formation. The darker green
areas on this NOAA map indicate areas that reported large hail at least 10 days per year for 2003
through 2012. The areas reporting the most are in the central and southern Great Plains states.
http://www.spc.noaa.gov/wcm/2013/HAIL.png
Thinking back to Chapter 5, you might connect the areas of heavy precipitation near the equator
with the location of the ITCZ. Does this make sense to you? Take a couple of minutes to think
about this, and then check out the following NASA link and click the play button.
http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/GlobalMaps/view.php?d1=TRMM_3B43M#
Can you see that the area of heavy rainfall near the equator (dark blue color) seems to move in a
north-south pattern throughout the year? During which month does this rainfall reach furthest
north? When does it reach furthest south? Reflecting back to Chapter 1, does this follow the
pattern for the annual migration of the sun’s direct (vertical) ray?
Look at the Global Precipitation map once more. Do you notice the areas of light blue color,
representing dry annual conditions, are located in places like North Africa, the Arabian
Peninsula, and central Australia. Which global pressure belt of sinking air do you think matches
up with these areas?
In Chapter 8 we’ll explore these questions in greater detail, but it’s a good idea to identify the
connections between topics and chapters whenever possible.
This color map shows the annual rainfall throughout the continental USA for a typical year
(2010). According to the map, when we don’t include Alaska or Hawaii, where are the wettest
regions of the USA? Notice how annual precipitation decreases rapidly when you move
eastward from the Pacific Northwest (WA, OR) but takes many hundreds of miles to decrease as
you move westward from the Atlantic states. Can you provide any reasonable explanations for
this?
Clouds are divided into three main Cloud Levels (called étages) based on their base elevation.
These cloud levels include:
• High Clouds. These are the highest of clouds, formed entirely of ice crystals as they are
found towards the top of the troposphere. They are typically thin and wispy in
appearance, as the upper-level winds disperse their moisture across the sky. Individual
forms include Cirrus (Ci), Cirrocumulus (Cc), and Cirrostratus (Cs) clouds.
• Middle Clouds. These clouds are typically found between 6,500 and 25,000 feet high.
At these elevations they are composed mostly of liquid water droplets, with some ice
forming at elevations cold enough to freeze the water. Individual forms include
Altocumulus (Ac), Altostratus (As), and Nimbostratus (Ns) clouds.
• Low Clouds. Found at elevations ranging from the surface to 6,500 feet, Low Clouds
are composed mostly of water droplets. Individual forms include Cumulus (Cu),
Stratocumulus (Sc), Stratus (St), and Cumulonimbus (Cb) clouds, though the latter
(Cb) clouds can grow vertically to great heights.
The specific height of each étage varies by season, with each of the cloud levels extending to
greater elevations during the summer when compared to winter, and with greater heights in the
tropics when compared to the poles. The following diagram clearly shows the latitudinal
component of this. Source: https://www.weather.gov/jetstream/corefour
Cirro-form clouds are high-level clouds composed of ice crystals. They are
typically thin and white in appearance but can create an array of colors at
Cirro-form sunrise and sunset. Cirrus generally occur in fair weather.
Cumulo-form clouds are ‘heaped’ so they look like fluffy white cotton balls
with a flat base. This heaped nature tells us that the air is unstable and wants to
continue to rise. The height of the cloud base depends upon the moisture
content of the rising air, with higher moisture content linked to lower cloud
base. The total height of the cloud depends on the temperature of the rising air
compared to that of the surrounding air.
Cumulo-form
Strato-form clouds are layered horizontally so as to cover the sky with a dull
blanket of gray weather. These are usually low-level clouds and are considered
to be ‘stable’, meaning they do not want to rise into the atmosphere unless
Strato-form forced to do so. If these cloud forms touch the ground, even on hills or
mountains, they may then be called fog.
Stratus are low, horizontally layered clouds that make everything look gray. They are
sometimes associated with light mist and drizzle, but not heavy rainfall.
Nimbostratus clouds are dark gray, low altitude clouds that produce rain and drizzle.
It is important to remember that clouds are continually on the move, and some can morph from
one type to the other quite readily. Stratus clouds can be forced upwards into the atmosphere,
becoming Nimbostratus. Cumulus clouds can bunch together, becoming Cumulus Congestus,
and if they continue to grow vertically along an updraft they can develop into a mature
Cumulonimbus cloud (with strong updrafts and downdrafts within the same cloud). It is the
friction between ice crystals, water, and air moving in opposite directions in the updrafts and
downdrafts which allows electrons to be ‘chipped’ away from molecules, leaving parts of the
cloud with opposing electrical charges. The uneven electrical charge found during the mature
stage of cumulonimbus cloud formation can result in lightning and thunder. Later, the cloud
dissipates as the updrafts are no longer present and the cloud is dominated by downdrafts. We’ll
explore this in greater depth in the next chapter on Air Masses and Storms.
Frost
Air with a dew point temperature which is lower than 32ºF, and
which comes into contact with very cold objects (also below 32ºF
or 0ºC) can deposit a fine layer of ice onto the very cold object.
This fine layer of ice is called frost, and forms directly from air to
ice. It is most common on cold, clear, winter nights, especially at
high elevation and high latitude. Photo of morning frost on vegetation by
Emmanuel Boutet https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frost#/media/File:Feuilles-avec-glace-
leaves-with-ice-1.jpg
Fog
Condensation of the air layer located just above the ground
surface is called fog. Fog can range in height from a few inches
to several hundred feet above the ground. Fog can exist as a very
thin veil of moisture (sometimes called mist) or as a thick body of
suspended droplets making it difficult to see (this would be a
classic fog). It is basically a cloud at ground-level, but unlike a
cloud, fog does not form as a result of air rising. Fog forms
mainly on long, cold, winter nights when the ground surface cools the overlying air to below its
dew point temperature. This is sometimes aided by extra moisture evaporated into the air above
water surfaces. Evaporation Fog (photo courtesy of NOAA)
Radiation Fog
Radiation fog forms after a long, cold, clear,
calm night when so much heat has radiated away
from the ground surface the air immediately
above the ground chills to it dew point
temperature. The thickness of Radiation Fog
varies from a few feet to over 1,000 feet,
gradually thickening as temperatures continue to
fall. Radiation fog tends to form mostly in
valleys as cold air tends to sink there, and this
fog doesn’t tend to move far once formed. In the
winter Radiation Fog can form very quickly,
causing deadly pile-ups on California’s Central Valley freeways in the early pre-dawn hours.
Once the sun comes up and warms the ground surface, radiation fog quickly dissipates.
Advection Fog
Advection fog is caused by the horizontal movement
of warm, moist air over a cold surface (land or
ocean). Once formed, this fog moves horizontally
along the ground. A classic example is the warm,
moist air of the Pacific Ocean moving towards the
California coastline. Before reaching the coast, this
air is chilled by the cold surface waters of the
California Current. During winter and spring nights
the waters of this current can be so cold they chill the
Pacific air to below its dew point temperature,
thereby forming a fog. This fog then creeps onto the
coast, pushing further inland in the pre-dawn hours.
By sunrise, the fog layer has thickened and moved (horizontally) many miles inland. After the
sun rises, it may take hours for this Advection Fog to evaporate into the air, or it might rise
above the ground to form a low stratus cloud. Point Reyes Sea Shore in Northern California has
over 200 foggy days per year! Take a look at the following link for a discussion of this type of
fog and its link to California’s Marine Layer. https://www.weather.gov/jetstream/marine
Upslope Fog
Upslope fog forms when light winds push moist
air high enough into a cold hill or mountain that the
air reaches its dew point temperature and condenses.
Upslope fog is common in California’s mountain
regions during the winter and spring when cold
mountain temperatures chill moist air coming from
the Pacific Ocean.
Air mass: An air mass is a large parcel of air which sits still over an area for days or
weeks, by which time the entire parcel has taken on the temperature and moisture
characteristics of the underlying surface. If the underlying surface is an ocean (a
maritime air mass), the air will tend to be moist, whereas dry air masses tend to form over
land (continental) surfaces that are far from a coastline. If the air mass is located at high
latitude (Polar) it will tend to be cold, whereas if located towards the equator (Tropical) it
will tend to be warmer in temperature.
www.srh.noaa.gov/crp/?n=education-airmasses
Air masses are represented on weather maps by using one or more of the following letter
designations:
c = continental
m = maritime
T = Tropical
P = Polar
A = Arctic
E = Equatorial
cP: Continental Polar. These very cold and very dry air masses form in Central Canada
during the height of winter. These air masses sneak into the mid-latitudes during the
winter and spring months, bringing bone-chilling temperatures and storm activity with
them. Except for on very rare occasions, the Rocky Mountains and Prevailing Westerly
winds tend to keep these very cold air masses away from California.
A: Arctic. These super cold and extra dry air masses form in northern Canada during the
winter, and tend to stay within the Arctic. Even though these air masses form over the
frozen Arctic Ocean, the icy surface of the ocean acts just like land, giving up very little
moisture to the dry air immediately above.
mT: Maritime Tropical. These are very warm, wet air masses which form over the
Caribbean Sea and in the tropical Pacific. The warm air can hold lots of water, and when
these air masses migrate into the mid-latitudes they provide the moisture source for many
of our storms.
cT: Continental Tropical. These are hot and dry air masses which form during the
summer months along the northern border of Mexico (Sonora and Chihuahua) and the
USA’s southwest states of New Mexico and Arizona. There is sufficient distance from
the coast for these air masses to become very dry and very hot during the long summer
months. When these air masses begin to migrate they can bring hot, dry conditions to
Colorado, Texas and beyond.
http://ww2010.atmos.uiuc.edu/(Gh)/wwhlpr/air_masses.rxml?hret=/guides/mtr/af/frnts/cfrnt/cyc.rxml
http://ww2010.atmos.uiuc.edu/(Gh)/wwhlpr/tropical_airmass_def.rxml?hret=/guides/mtr/af/frnts/cfrnt/cyc.r
xml&prv=1
So air masses form in specific areas where the air can sit still for weeks. This also means
that air masses tend not to form in areas with constant wind motion such as in the
Westerly winds of the mid-latitudes. However, once air masses have formed, they do not
tend to stay still forever. In fact, it is the mixing of different air masses that creates our
typical mid-latitude winter storms. So what makes the different air masses move away
from their source regions, allowing us to have winter storms? It’s the Rossby Waves!
Rossby Waves
Rossby Waves are big bends in the Polar Jet Stream, that river of air found
approximately 30-40,000 feet high in the troposphere, typically around 60ºN and 60ºS
As the Polar Jet Stream tends to provide a border between very cold air on the pole-ward
side, and warmer air on the equator-ward side, once Rossby Waves form in the midst of
winter, they allow cold polar air to be pulled equator-ward while at the same time they
allow warm tropical air to be forced towards the poles.
In the midst of winter we find the mid-latitudes with parcels of cold, polar air sitting next
to parcels of warm tropical air, both parcels separated by a bend in the Polar Jet Stream, a
Rossby Wave. Recall also, that the surface winds of the mid-latitudes are the Prevailing
Westerly winds, which will now push both the cold air and warm air parcels off to the
east…thus begins the path of our winter storms, known formally as Mid-Latitude Wave
Cyclones.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Occluded_cyclone.svg http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclogenesis
For the west coast of the USA, strong Rossby waves lead to the formation of our typical
winter storms, the classic Mid-Latitude Wave Cyclone. These winter storms are usually
comprised of three main segments: Low Pressure Center, Cold Front and Warm Front.
http://ww2010.atmos.uiuc.edu/(Gh)/wwhlpr/air_masses.rxml?hret=/guides/mtr/af/frnts/cfrnt/cyc.rxml
Each of these segments will be pushed to the east by the Prevailing Westerly Winds, but
the Cold front will move faster than the other two segments due to the higher density of
the cold air. The faster motion of the Cold Front means that the warm air between the
Cold Front and Warm Front will ultimately get “squeezed” up into the atmosphere.
The Low Pressure Center generally occurs at the crest of a Rossby Wave, where the
bends in the Polar Jet Stream have allowed for circular rotation of warm and cold air
parcels.
A warm front marks the border of warm air moving into cooler air, and is represented by
semi-circles.
Uplift, and therefore rain, is associated with all three segments of this storm. The Low
Pressure Center is an area of general atmospheric uplift, but warm air is also being
uplifted along both fronts. Along the Cold Front, cold air moves in quickly to wedge the
warm air aloft. This type of front has a steep angle, so the warm air rises quickly,
condenses, and yields heavy rainfall. On the other hand, Warm Fronts have a much
lower angle for the uplift to take place along, so the warm air rises gently over the cool
air, and the rainfall is lighter in nature and located well in advance of the Warm Front’s
location at ground level.
http://ww2010.atmos.uiuc.edu/(Gh)/wwhlpr/warm_front_precip.rxml?hret=/guides/mtr/af
/frnts/cfrnt/prcp.rxml
When the Cold Front catches up to the Warm Front, the warm air has effectively been
lifted off the ground, and the term Occluded Front is used to describe this condition.
Occlusion usually occurs at the Low Pressure center first and then progresses equator-
ward (south in the Northern Hemisphere) like a zipper being pulled. With the warm air
already lifted off the ground, the storm’s energy has been largely dissipated and the storm
soon fades out. The typical Low Pressure Center, and thus the storm in general, moves at
a speed of approximately 20 to 40 mph from west to east. The Cold Front moves slightly
faster and the Warm Front moves a little slower. Since the Cold Front moves fastest it
will ultimately catch up to the Warm Front, resulting in an Occluded Front, which is
shown on a weather map as a line with both triangles and semi-circles pointing in the
direction of frontal movement. Occlusion represents the dying days of a storm, as the
warm air has all been pushed high into the troposphere.
In a very general sense, Mid-Latitude Wave Cyclones tend to deliver more precipitation
to the higher mid-latitudes (45-60 degrees of latitude) and to the coastlines. The lower
TORNADOES
Make sure to check out these awesome links
http://www.spc.noaa.gov/faq/tornado http://www.srh.noaa.gov/crp/?n=education-tornadoes
http://www.nssl.noaa.gov/education/svrwx101/tornadoes/faq https://www.weather.gov/jetstream/tornado
The diameter of a tornado is typically 100 to 600 feet, but ground disturbance has
indicated a size as small as 7 feet and as wide as 2.5 miles. Rotational wind speeds are
typically less than 110mph, but speeds over 300mph have been recorded. Tornadoes
typically travel across the land at between 20 and 40mph, and take a path determined by
the direction of the cloud it’s attached to. They typically last anywhere from a few
seconds to several hours, but the average is approximately 10 minutes, cutting a path of
destruction approximately 5 miles in length. Tornadoes were once responsible for
hundreds of deaths per year, but recent advances in atmospheric research and technology
means that this number is down to about 60 deaths per year in the USA.
Tornado Damage Scale: http://www.ouramazingplanet.com/tornado-damage-scale-image-110425-1435/1/
Tornado Formation
Most strong tornadoes form from an area of localized rotation (sometimes referred to as a
Tight Circulation or Mesocyclone) within a large variety of cumulonimbus cloud called a
Supercell. The Mesocyclone forms when warm, surface-level winds move at a different
speed (or different direction) than cooler, higher-level winds, so that the air near the
surface begins to roll (see Diagram A) https://www.weather.gov/jetstream/tornado
(A) (B)
https://www.weather.gov/jetstream/tornado
Indeed, the true hotspot of tornado activity in the USA, and for that matter the world, is
the southern part of the Great Plains, centered in Oklahoma. The Southern Great Plains
is thus nicknamed "tornado alley."
Source http://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/oa/climate/severeweather/tornadoes.html
However, this depends on location. The following graph clearly shows that the south-
southeastern US states (Alabama and Arkansas, part of what some scientists refer to as
“Dixie Alley”) experience their peak tornado seasons in early spring. The southern Great
Plains state of Oklahoma and the more northerly states of Kansas, Ohio and Illinois in
mid- to late-spring, and South Dakota, the most northerly of those listed, in latest spring
to early summer.
http://www.nssl.noaa.gov/users/brooks/public_html/tornado/#alltorn
Though not graphed here, even states like California or New York are subjected to
tornadoes, which are usually associated with strong cumulonimbus cloud cells within
winter storms. These tornadoes tend to be much less frequent and much weaker than
those of the southern Great Plains.
Global Tornadoes
According to the NOAA, the most favorable locations for tornadoes to form are the mid-
latitudes, between 30 and 50 degrees from the equator, where cold polar air can collide
with warm, moist tropical air. Additionally, tropospheric winds at these latitudes tend to
flow at different speeds and directions as you go up in altitude, which allows storm cells
to rotate more easily. The USA is the global leader in tornado occurrence, recording over
1,000 tornadoes each year on average. Canada is home to the second most tornadoes,
recording an average of approximately 100 per year. Tornadoes are also common in the
mid-latitudes of Europe, western Asia, Japan, eastern China, Australia, New Zealand,
South Africa and Argentina.
(http://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/oa/climate/severeweather/tornadoes.html).
Though 80% or more of all tornadoes on the planet are found in the USA, the following
map shows that many other places do indeed experience them too!
http://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/img/climate/research/tornado/globdist.jpg
Hurricane Formation
Hurricanes all form from simple lines of tropical
thunderstorms called “Easterly Waves” or “Tropical
Disturbances” which migrate east-to-west as they are
pushed by the Trade Winds. Wind speeds are below
23mph. If an Easterly Wave stays over warm, tropical
waters it will continue to pull in warm, moist air, which
allows the storm to grow in intensity as it becomes
more organized. Once wind speeds exceed 23mph, the
storm is called a Tropical Depression. At this stage the
storm is beginning to spin, which allows it to bring in
more moist air, which acts as the fuel for the storm as
the rising moist air releases latent heat once it
condenses into the clouds. If a Tropical Depression
stays over warm water and its wind speeds exceed
39mph, it has now become a Tropical Storm, and it is
given an official name (see storm names below).
Again, if the Tropical Storm stays over warm oceanic
waters, it will continue to intensify in strength and size.
Once sustained wind speeds exceed 74mph, a hurricane
is born.
- spiral bands (bands of rain getting more intense closer to the eye wall)
- no fronts
- eye and eye wall cloud
- 100-600 mi diameter is typical
HURRICANE GEOGRAPHY
Hurricanes only form over warm, tropical oceans. They rarely form within 5° latitude of
the equator, because the Coriolis Force is weak near the equator and the thunderstorm
clusters will not rotate. There are seven regions around the world where tropical cyclones
form. (Source: http://www.srh.noaa.gov/crp/?n=education-hurricanes)
131-155 Extensive damage to doors, windows and roofs, shrubs, trees and all
4
mph signs blown down, and complete destruction of mobile homes.
Source: https://www.nssl.noaa.gov/education/svrwx101/thunderstorms/
Lightning
Lightning is the discharge of electricity and occurs in mature thunderstorms. It is caused
by charges (pos. and neg.) separating in clouds, creating electrical potential.
Lightning equalizes these differences in electrical potential.
Thunder
Thunder is the sound made by lightning
as a compressional wave is sent out from
the displaced air. The sound can range
from a loud crack or bang to a soft
rumble, depending how far you are from
the source. The distance of the lightning
can be calculated by the listener based on
how many seconds elapse between the
flash of the lightning and the sound of the
resulting thunder. Since the speed of light is about 300,000,000 m/s or 186,000 miles per
second, we consider that to be pretty much instantaneous for events on the Earth. The
speed of sound is about 343 m/s or about 760miles per hour, depending on the air density.
The difference between these rates of speed means that every 5 seconds that elapses
between the flash of lightning and the noise of thunder is equal to about 1 mile of
distance.
Occurance
1500-2000 lightning storms are active and occur around the world at any time. However,
some places are more susceptible than others to thunderstorm activity. The most globally
active place to witness thunderstorms is equatorial west Africa, as shown on the NASA
map below, which shows the average annual number of lightning flashes/square km.
http://www.nasa.gov/vision/earth/lookingatearth/intense_storms.html
Source: https://www.weather.gov/jetstream/tstorms_intro
http://www.pmel.noaa.gov/tao/elnino/nino_normal.html
La Nina Conditions: Every now and then the trade winds blow with increased force,
yielding a stronger westward flow of warm tropical Pacific waters towards the western
http://www.pmel.noaa.gov/tao/elnino/nino_normal.html
El Nino Conditions: Every few year, for reasons still to be uncovered, the trade winds
weaken. The result of this is that the warm water which had been piling up (and pushed
down) along the coastlines of the western Pacific (Australia, Indonesia) begins to slowly
migrate eastwards across the equatorial Pacific, eventually arriving as abnormally warm
sea-surface temperatures (SSTs) along the coast of Ecuador and Peru in December-
January, and with it low atmospheric pressure and rainfall. At the same time, the western
pacific is experiencing colder-than-normal SSTs, high atmospheric pressure and drought.
These changes in SSTs are referred to as El-Nino, while the changes in atmospheric
pressure are referred to as the Southern Oscillation.
http://www.pmel.noaa.gov/tao/elnino/nino_normal.html
DESCRIPTION: Warm (red) and cold (blue) episodes based on a threshold of +/- 0.5oC for the Oceanic Niño
Index (ONI) [3 month running mean of ERSST.v3b SST anomalies in the Niño 3.4 region (5 oN-5oS, 120o-170oW)],
based on the 1971-2000 base period. For historical purposes cold and warm episodes (blue and red colored numbers)
are defined when the threshold is met for a minimum of 5 consecutive over-lapping seasons.
Based on this data, of the 29 Southern California winters encompassed between January
1990 and February 2018 there were 8 years where the January to March period (Southern
In the previous chapters we learned about how the earth interacts with radiation from the sun to
heat our atmosphere and put it into motion. We’ve explored the composition and layers of the
atmosphere, how energy is moved from one place to another, how atmospheric molecules rise in
low pressure cells, sink in high pressure cells, and then flow across the surface as wind. We’ve
learned about the movement of water in the atmosphere, the formation of clouds, the many types
of precipitation that these clouds produce, and we’ve explored the storm systems which bring the
various air masses together. Now we’ll use this knowledge to explore the various climate zones
which exist on our planet and describe the general characteristics of the large ecosystems
(biomes) associated with each climate zone. We’ll describe what makes each zone unique in
terms of climate and vegetation, map out the locations of these zones, and then we’ll determine
the main reasons why these zones exist where they do.
What is Climate?
While weather refers to atmospheric conditions for a specific place and time, Climate refers to
atmospheric conditions for a large region over a long period of time. For the most part, a specific
Climate is determined by analyzing monthly temperature and precipitation patterns over long
periods of time (typically 30 years or more). The analysis involves not just the average
temperature and precipitation, but also if there is a strong seasonal component to these variables
(e.g. whether most of the precipitation falls in the winter or if it’s evenly spread throughout the
year).
1. Latitude
Climate zones are generally colder at the poles and warmer near the tropics.
2. Elevation
High mountains like Mount Everest are cold and dry places, while low elevations tend to
be warmer.
6. Ocean Circulations
Likewise, our oceans have a natural circulation pattern to them. Northern Hemisphere
currents turn constantly towards their right, resulting in a clockwise circulation pattern.
This means warm equatorial waters will be driven towards Florida along the current
known as the Gulf Stream. The warm, most air above this current is pulled inland, giving
Florida warm, humid summers with afternoon thunderstorms. Conversely, the West
Coast of the USA is under the influence of the cold water California Current, resulting in
cool, stable air masses along the coast (this may give morning fog but not afternoon
thunderstorms in the summer).
7. Storms
There is a pattern to the location of storms and the paths they follow, which we refer to as
“storm tracks.” Some places like Seattle, WA are located smack in the middle of storm
tracks, giving them year-round potential for rainfall. Conversely, places like San Diego,
CA are located on the edge of these storm tracks, resulting in less rainfall as the storms
only reach them in the midst of winter.
A Tropical
BW Dry Desert
BS Dry Steppe (not as dry as BW)
C Mesothermal (generally found in the lower mid-latitudes, 30-45 degrees N and S)
D Microthermal (generally found in the upper mid-latitude, 45-65 N)
ET Polar Tundra
EF Polar Ice Cap
H Highland
These primary classifications can be further divided into secondary (lower case) letters:
Combining the primary and secondary letters (2-4 total letters) gives us the lettering system at
the heart of the Köppen Climate Classification system. For instance, Csa refers to a mesothermal
climate typically found between 30 and 45 degrees latitude with dry, very hot summers. We call
this a mediterranean climate, which should sound familiar because this is the climate type of
coastal Southern California! So, even though all of us living from San Francisco to San Diego
are thousands of miles from the coastlines of Italy, Greece, and Spain, we’re all very much
mediterranean!
- Amazon Basin
- Congo Basin
The emergent layer contains very tall trees, often growing to over 200 feet in height and
sticking up above all other trees around them. Birds of prey like the Harpy Eagle live in the
emergent layer along with several species of bats, monkeys and insects.
The canopy layer consists of hundreds of tree species about 100 to 150 feet in height that
have inter-connecting branches and leaf matter, so that they capture most of the available
sunlight. The canopy contains the highest biodiversity and biomass of the rainforest, making
it the richest biological treasure trove on the planet. The rainforest canopy is home to insects,
monkeys, sloths, snakes, birds, and even other plants which grow on the main tree (including
vines and epiphytes).
Climate Regions and Biomes © Darren Leaver 2018 Page 8
The understory layer lies below the canopy in an area of shade and diffuse light because less
than 10% of the available sunlight makes it past the canopy layer. Therefore, the leaves must
be quite large in order to catch enough sunlight to grow. Although the leaves are large in this
layer, many plants are no larger than shrubs. The tallest understory plants are not tall by any
standards, rarely growing taller than 10-20 feet in height. Most of the species found in the
understory live their entire life cycle here, while others are seedlings of tallest canopy or
emergent species just waiting for an opening so they can grow to maturity. The understory is
home to birds, snakes, frogs, and a huge number of insects.
The forest floor is a dark, shady environment which receives very little (estimated around
2%) of the available sunlight. A few plants and fungi have adapted to this low-light
environment, but the great majority of the forest floor is void of vegetation. This area is
home to the wide birds-foot-like buttresses of the taller trees, which serve to stabilize the
trees from heavy winds. It is important to remember that young rainforest trees tend to grow
upwards (to reach sunlight quickly) rather
than put their energy into making deep root
systems (especially as the deeper rainforest
soils are nutrient poor). As the trees
mature and grow taller, they create the
buttresses to stabilize themselves.
Between the buttresses the forest floor is
composed of decaying leaves, branches,
and the fallen fruit and nuts. The high
temperatures and moist conditions mean
that this fallen organic material
decomposes quickly into a rich uppermost
soil layer known as humus. The tree roots
are concentrated in the humus layer, where they can absorb nutrients efficiently, so the
nutrients make their way back into the trees very rapidly. Animals such as the Agouti and
Peccary rummage through the fallen fruits and nuts for their sustenance, while these animals
fall prey to large predators such as Jaguars and constrictor snakes. Ants, termites and fungi
aid in the decomposition of organic material on the forest floor, so the entire system allows
for an efficient, natural recycling of energy and nutrients.
In the Tropical Monsoon annual rainfall typically ranges from 100-200", but can be as high as
425". This precipitation falls mainly within the summer months. These regions have a distinct
winter dry season
lasting from one to four
months with rainfall
amounts of less than
2.4"/month.
Though still quite low,
Tropical Monsoon
regions have a slightly
larger ATR (4 to 15 F)
and DTR (10 to 16 F)
compared to Af
Climate zones. The
hottest month is
typically in late spring,
just as the clouds and
rain arrive.
These forests are located on the margins of the Tropical Rainforest (such as the margins of the Amazon
rainforest and parts of India, Sri Lanka, Vietnam and Cambodia) due to the short but significant dry
season. The total annual precipitation may be quite high in the Tropical Deciduous Forest, but there is a
distinct dry season of 1 to 4 months, and in
order to survive the vegetation has to respond
to this short drought. Though broadleaf
evergreen trees can exist where they can
access groundwater year-round, the dominant
trees in this biome are broadleaf deciduous
trees such as teak and ebony. These
deciduous trees respond to the drought
periods by lying dormant and shedding their
leaves in order to reduce transpiration, and by
not growing quite as tall as they would in the
Tropical Rainforest.
The shedding of leaves means that sunlight can reach the ground level, thereby allowing for the
growth of thick underbrush. Tropical Deciduous Forests are less biologically rich than Tropical
Rainforests, but are still home to an enormous variety of insects, birds, frogs, and mammals such
as rodents, monkeys and large cats like the tiger.
The Tropical Savanna Climate Zone is associated with the biome called the Tropical
Woodland, Scrub and Savanna. This biome is characterized by the presence of scattered trees
(woodland) with thorny bushes (scrub) and tropical grasses
(savanna) located between the trees, which together can be
referred to as the ‘trifecta’ of the Tropical Woodland, Scrub
and Savanna biome. In the wetter portions of this biome
there are more trees, but their canopies are not inter-
connecting (this is the main difference between a forest and
woodland) which allows for the limited growth of scrub
and grasses between the trees. In the drier portions of this
biome there are only scattered trees, so the landscape is
dominated by either scrubland or grassland, but usually
both together. The composition of this biome is further
complicated by the use of fire by humans and natural
lightning strikes. The fire normally only scorches the
outer bark of the trees but it burns away the scrub and
grasses. After the fire, the grasses are quick to regenerate
from seed, while the bushes take much longer time to
grow back. This creates a biome where grasses exist in
larger abundance (and scrub in less abundance) than they
would likely be without the use of fire. In Africa the abundant savanna grasslands provide an
enormous food source for grazing herbivores like zebra, wildebeest, and cattle. The grasslands
are found between woodlands or scattered patches of Acacia and Baobab trees, and short, thorny,
drought-resistant scrub (known as African thorn scrub).
• Locate the three Tropical (A) climate zones on the following map and then draw them
onto a blank outline map of world climates (from your professor).
• Can you describe the locations of the tropical climate zones relative to each other?
The Koppen “B” climates fall into two categories, desert (or arid) and steppe (or semi-arid),
both of which have low annual precipitation totals and high rates of potential evapotranspiration
(the amount of moisture that could be evaporated away from the land IF there was enough
moisture there to do so).
Desert (BW) climates are very arid regions characterized by very low precipitation, very high
potential evapotranspiration, and low humidity. Because the air is so dry in deserts, they have an
ability to become very hot in the afternoons but also to cool down overnight to near-freezing
temperatures, giving deserts some of the largest Daily Temperature Ranges in the world.
There are two main varieties of desert climates based largely on their geographic location: Sub-
Tropical Deserts and Mid-Latitude Deserts. Subtropical (Hot) Deserts (BWh) are found at sub-
tropical latitudes (approx. 20-30˚) where they are constantly under the presence of the Sub-
Tropical High Pressure Zone (STHPZ). These deserts include the Sahara Desert, Arabian
Desert, Kalahari Desert, Sonoran Desert and Great Sandy Desert.
The second type of Desert is known as the Mid-Latitude (Cold) Desert (BWk). These include
the Gobi, Taklamakan, Mojave, Great Basin, and Patagonian deserts. These deserts may
experience the high atmospheric pressure of the STHPZ for part of the year, but their presence in
the mid-latitudes is due mainly to their distance from storm tracks and moisture sources, or for
being in the rain-shadow of large mountain ranges.
Conveniently, the biome associated with Desert Climates is known as the Desert Biome. Desert
Biomes are found in approximately the same location as both Subtropical and Mid-Latitude
Desert Climate Zones, areas of very low precipitation and very high potential evapotranspiration.
Key examples are the Sahara, Arabian, Kalahari, Gobi, Atacama, Sonora, Colorado, Mojave, and
Great Victoria Deserts.
Desert vegetation is
dominated by scattered
xerophytes, plants which
have adapted to very dry
conditions. These
xerophytic adaptations fall
into two basic categories:
those for annual plants and
those for perennial plants.
Annual plants, those which will survive for a single season, focus on
passing along their genetic details through their seeds. This ensures the
preservation of the species rather than the individual plant. In essence,
seeds lay dormant in the thin soil until the rainy season arrives. Within
days to weeks the seeds begin to grow and flower. When the soil begins
to dry these flowering plants also begin to dry and wither, they drop their
seeds, they dry up and they die, with the seeds laying dormant until the
next rainy season. Examples of local desert annuals include the California
Poppy (Escholtzia californiaca), Fiddleneck (Amsincaia sp.) and Gilia
(Gilia latiflora).
Animal adaptations to the desert biome include staying inactive within underground burrows or
in the shade of plants or rocks during sunlight hours, and being active during the night
(nocturnal) when temperatures are cool. Many animals get all of the water they need by eating
plants, seeds, fruits and insects and by producing very little liquid waste. Some insects in the
Atacama Desert have even adapted so that their main source of moisture is condensation they
collect on their exoskeleton in the early morning hours. Our local deserts are home to many
large mammals but we seldom see them due to their nocturnal behavior. These include the
coyote, big horn sheep, mule deer, and badger.
Unless there is an intervening water body or mountain barrier, Desert Climates are usually
surrounded by zones of slightly higher moisture known as Steppe (BS) Climates. Here, there is
usually enough annual precipitation to allow for the growth of shrubs and grasses, which are
typically absent in true deserts. Compare the patterns on the maps for BW and BS climates to
see the relationship between these climate zones.
The pattern will become clearer when you compare the locations of Steppe (Semiarid) and
Desert (Arid) Climates as shown on the following map. Can you now see that the Steppe
Climates surround the Desert Climates as long as a mountain barrier or water body doesn’t get in
the way?
The association of biomes with Steppe Climates is slightly complex, and requires us to link this
climate zone to two biomes. The Subtropical (Hot) Steppe Climate zone is associated with
Savanna grasslands found in the driest parts of the Tropical Savanna and the Tropical
Woodland and Scrub (see the section on the Tropical Savanna climate). These tropical
grasslands grow on the peripheries of the Sub-Tropical Deserts where rainfall totals are barely
enough to sustain the growth of grasses and scattered shrubs.
Mid-Latitude (Cold) Steppe Climates are associated with the Mid-Latitude Grassland Biome.
This biome is characterized by relatively continuous
stretches of grassland, though scattered shrubs are
often intermingled, with trees existing only along
river banks and lake shores. The historical use of
fire appears to be a contributing factor in the
dominance of grasses at the expense of shrubs. This
biome is squeezed between the Desert Biome on the
equatorial side and Temperate Mixed Forest Biome
on the polar side. The Tall Grass Prairie of the
central USA grows to heights of 3 to 6 feet in an
area where sufficient precipitation is received to
allow the taller grasses to survive. These tall grasses
go by the name Pampas in Argentina and Veldt in South Africa.
The Mediterranean Woodland and Scrub biome is normally found in association with
Mediterranean Climate Zones. Since these areas
experience hot, dry summers and cool, moist winters,
the vegetation has adapted to these climatic
conditions as well as to a poorly-developed soil.
There are several distinct plant communities
represented within this biome, including woodland,
shrub and grassland, but in most cases there will be
elements of all three present. Still, let’s explore these
communities in more detail.
Animals of the Mediterranean Woodland and Shrub Biome vary from region to region. For
coastal California they include the coyote, black-tailed deer, bobcat, mountain lion, road-runner,
rattle snake, red-tail hawk, Cooper’s hawk, squirrel, and rabbit. Many of these are nocturnal,
especially in summer, so that they avoid the heat of the day.
Fire is a very important aspect of this biome’s composition, as there is a slow progression
towards taller bushes and trees (with less biological diversity) if there has been no fire for 20 to
30 years or more. In California, many of the chaparral plants (including sage and chamise) have
high natural oil content, and chamise often becomes
the dominant shrub in areas that have not burned for
decades. When a fire does progress to these older
stands of chamise it is often too hot to control easily
and hillside homes are put at risk. However, there are
some major biological benefits derived from the
occasional fire. The fire destroys the portions of tall
shrubs that grow above ground (the roots are often left
unharmed), the ash fertilizes the soil, and the heat of
the fire cracks open dormant seeds and removes toxins from the soil. For several years after the
fire a rich biological assortment of low-growing herbaceous plants (collectively called pioneer
species) can be found in the chaparral, but the process of plant succession continues over the
years as taller-growing bushes and trees begin to crowd out the pioneers. Twenty to 30 years
after the fire, the chaparral will once again be dominated by taller growing bushes and trees such
as chamise, and a healthy dose of fire will be called for once more.
Question: Why don’t we allow for periodic fires in our chaparral hillsides?
The biome associated with the Humid Subtropical climate zone is the Temperate Mixed Forest
which is also known as the Mid-Latitude Deciduous Forest and Temperate Deciduous Forest.
Temperate Mixed Forests are located in regions which experience very
warm, moist summers and cold, moist winters. The biome is dominated
by broadleaf deciduous trees (oak, beech, maple, chestnut), but there are
usually needle-leaf evergreen trees (pine, spruce, fir) present in the
upper canopy as well as shrubs, flowers, grasses, mosses and fungi
growing in the understory and forest floor. There are some regional
variations within this biome, with deciduous trees completely
dominating some portions (Northeast USA) and evergreens dominating
in other regions (Northwest and Southeast USA) but it is fair to say most
As detailed in the next two sections, the Temperate Mixed Forest biome is associated with two
additional climate zones, the Marine West Coast and the Humid Continental.
The resolution on the map above is not ideal, so check out the relative locations of the Humid
Continental and Subarctic climate zones on this map.
The Tundra Biome is found in the same general location as the Tundra Climate Zone, on the
northern coastlines of North America and Eurasia, the southern coastlines of Greenland, and on
mountain slopes throughout the world where it is
too cold for trees to grow. The Tundra is frozen
most of the year but thaws out for one to four
three during summer. These regions also receive
very little precipitation (6-10” is typical), similar
in amount to a desert but with much less
evapotranspiration, and with most precipitation
falling as snow.
Animals of the Tundra Biome have also adapted to the harsh environment in a number of ways
including:
• Hibernating during the long, cold winter when food is not abundant.
• Being able to efficiently store energy in fat cells during the summer, when food is
plentiful.
• Breeding and raising their young quickly during the brief summer.
• Migrating south before the winter sets in (especially birds, reindeer, caribou).
The summer migration of fauna into the Tundra creates a very diverse collage of animals
including caribou, polar bears, arctic foxes, hares, squirrels, wolves and lemmings. While the
basis of the food chain in this biome is largely the terrestrial plants, some of these animals
depend on fish such as cod, trout and salmon which are found in the rivers, streams and
coastlines of the Tundra. Migratory birds include falcons, terns, seagulls, loons, and ravens. The
birds feed upon the insects hatching in the stagnant ponds including flies, mosquitoes,
grasshoppers, bees, moths, and butterflies. The long, cold winters mean that reptiles are largely
absent from the Tundra.
For a summary, take a look at the following NOAA link for an overview of the world’s climate
zones. Keep in mind that there are many variations on even the Köppen Climate Classification
System, as scientists sometimes use different names for a climate zone, or they might group two
climate zones together to make it a little easier to understand the material. In the NOAA map,
the Tropical Wet includes the very similar Tropical Monsoon Climate, the Desert has been
renamed the Arid Climate Zone, and the Steppe Climate is called Semi-Arid.
http://oceanservice.noaa.gov/education/pd/oceans_weather_climate/media/climate_zones.swf
What’s happening to the Humid Subtropical and Humid Continental climate zones?
Which climate zones are shrinking and which zones are getting larger?
CHAPTER 14
Lithospheric plates: ride on convection cells within the asthenosphere
Continental Drift (Wegener, 1914)
Plate Tectonics
Plate Margins
A. Divergent (rift): Plates move apart from each other. (Mid-ocean ridges)
B. Convergent: Plates move towards one another; 3 types
continental-continental (Himalayas)*
continental-oceanic (Cascades, Andes)*
oceanic-oceanic (Japan, Indonesia, Philippines)*
C. Transform: Plate slip past one another. (San Andreas Fault)
Hot spots: Plates move over a hot zone in the mantle (Hawaii)
Volcanic Features Intrusive Features
stratovolcanoes (composite volcanoes)
shield volcanoes dike
cinder cones sill
calderas batholith
flood basalts stock
Folding Faulting
Anticline Normal
Syncline Reverse (thrust)
Monocline Strike-slip (L & R Lateral)
Geologic effects
Volcanic eruption
Landslide
Tsunami = "seismic sea wave"
Liquefaction
Earth formed approximately 4.55 billion years ago as a dry ball of rock covered by a cloud of
toxic gas. As the early earth orbited our newly-formed sun, it swept up and pulled in enormous
masses of dust and rocks that were in its path. This constant bombardment heated the early earth
to the point that the entire planet melted into a hostile environment of super-hot magma. The
heavy materials like iron sank to Earth's interior to form the planet’s core, while the lighter
elements ‘floated’ to the outer layers. As the planet began to cool from the outside-in, a solid
‘skin’ began to form on the outermost layers. At the same time, gases like carbon dioxide,
nitrogen, and water vapor were released from inside the planet and over tens of millions of years
allowed for the development of an early atmosphere. The water vapor cooled and precipitated,
eventually producing the planet’s oceans.
The earth’s cooling process is still ongoing, so a portion of the earth’s core remains liquid and
composed of heavy elements, while earth’s outermost layer is solid and composed of lighter
elements. If we were to take the earth as a whole we would see that it’s composed mostly of iron
(32%), oxygen (30%), silicon (15%), magnesium (14%), sulfur (3%), nickel (1.8%), calcium
(1.5%), and aluminium (1.4%); with the remainder consisting of trace amounts of other
elements. However, we have to remember that due to mass segregation early in earth’s history,
the heaviest elements settled towards the core of the earth, which is composed largely of heavy
elements like iron (almost 90%), with smaller amounts of nickel and sulfur (about 10%), and less
than 1% trace elements. And again, the lighter elements ‘floated’ towards the outer surface, so
the minerals and rocks of our crust are made up primarily of lighter elements like Oxygen (47%),
Silicon (28%), and Aluminum (8%) with lesser amounts of iron (5%), calcium (3.5%), sodium,
potassium, magnesium and about 100 additional elements in very small concentrations.
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abundance_of_the_chemical_elements).
It sounds like we know a lot about the inside of the earth, but to be honest, nobody has been
there! The deepest mine in the world is less than 4 miles from the surface, and the deepest
well ever drilled extends about 7.5 miles from the surface. So how do we know so much
about our planet’s internal chemistry and structure? In essence, we do this by combining the
ideas gained from astronomy, chemistry and physics (mass segregation) with information
obtained by collecting and analyzing gas and lava samples released from inside the earth, and
through the analysis of seismic waves which travel through the earth as a consequence of an
earthquake or underground explosion. Check out these two
links to better understand how earth scientists gain knowledge
of the earth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEtg209pvdU and
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bOma_5v88I
This analysis reveals several distinct layers inside the earth, so let’s look at these in detail.
The crust is made of 90 elements like calcium, aluminum, sodium, oxygen, silica, and iron.
These elements form about 3,500 minerals like quartz, feldspar, and olivine, which in turn are
the building blocks of rocks such as granite, basalt and diorite.
Element %
Oxygen 47
Silicon 28
Aluminum 8
TOTAL 83%
All Other Elements 17%
There are two main varieties of crust know as Continental Crust and Oceanic Crust.
Continental crust is composed of rocks with a high chemical content of Aluminum, Oxygen,
Silicon, Calcium, Sodium and Iron, collectively known as felsic rocks. A classic example is
granite, which is the most common rock of the continental crust. The continental crust averages
about 20 miles in thickness (up to 60 miles thick for mountain ranges), allowing it to sit higher
centers and thicker towards the edges of oceans). Oceanic crust is composed of rocks like basalt,
which has a high concentration of the elements Iron and Magnesium, with low concentrations of
Aluminum. These are collectively classified as mafic rocks. Areas of the earth’s surface are
covered by a jig-saw puzzle arrangement of either Continental crust or Oceanic crust. These
‘jig-saw’ pieces are known as Lithospheric Plates or Tectonic Plates, and there are a total of
about 30 major plates on earth’s surface.
Underneath the crust, Earth has three layers of hot rock and metal.
These layers are the mantle, the outer core, and the inner core. The
mantle is a layer of hot, mostly solid rock below the crust. It is about
1,800 miles (2,900 kilometers) thick. The outer core lies beneath the
mantle. It is made mostly of melted iron, and it is even hotter than the
mantle. The inner core is the hottest part of Earth. Scientists believe
that the inner core is a ball of solid iron.
The Mantle is located immediately below the crust and Moho, extending to about 1800 miles
below the surface of the earth. The mantle occupies over 80% of Earth’s volume, and has a
rather stable chemistry (high in Iron, Magnesium, Silicon, and Calcium, elements which would
easily make the rock Peridotite (composed of the minerals pyroxene and olivine). The mantle is
divided into three major sections: the Uppermost Mantle, Asthenosphere, and Lower Mantle)
- The Uppermost Mantle is solid and extends from the bottom of the crust to a depth of
approximately 50 miles below earth’s surface, deeper below continents and shallower near
the centers of oceans. The Uppermost mantle is composed of solid rock (dominated by
olivine-pyroxene minerals) and together with the crust is referred to as “Lithosphere”.
- The Lower (Deep) Mantle extends from below the asthenosphere to a depth of
approximately 1800 miles below the surface. This is the largest portion of the mantle, and
although it is solid, evidence exists for slow but deliberate convective motion within this
layer too.
The Core of the earth is divided into two sections, the Outer Core and the Inner Core. The
Outer Core is located approximately 1800-3100 miles below the surface. This layer is
composed of heavier elements like Iron, Nickel and Sulfur and is so hot it represents earth’s only
liquid layer. As the molten Iron stirs in violent convective motions it generates the earth’s
magnetic field.
The Inner Core is under so much pressure it cannot exist as a liquid, so this layer, extending
from approximately 3100 miles to the center of the earth at 4,000 miles below the surface, is
completely solid Iron, Nickel and Sulfur.
Igneous rocks are formed from molten rock that has cooled
and solidified. There are two types of igneous rocks:
Igneous Intrusive rocks form when magma deep below
earth’s surface cools and solidifies slowly. The slow cooling
process allows crystals to grow from the molten liquid, and
the result is a coarse-grained rock. Igneous intrusive rocks
are the dominant rocks within earth’s crust, and the most
common types include granite, diorite, and gabbro. The Granite
second type of igneous rocks, known as Igneous Extrusive
rocks, form when lava, glowing-hot cinders or ash cool
rapidly on near the Earth's surface. Most of this material
(73%) is produced in mid-ocean divergent boundaries, with
lesser amounts produced at subduction zones (15%) and hot-
spots (12%). The rapid cooling results in very small crystal
size and what are referred to as fine-grained rocks like basalt,
rhyolite, andesite, pumice and obsidian.
http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/Imgs/Gif/Drawings/RockClassif-B.gif
Metamorphic Rocks
Pre-existing rocks that are subjected to intense heat and
pressure often melt to become magma. However, sometimes
the heat and pressure are not enough to melt the rocks, and
instead they compress and warp the rocks into a different
rock form known as metamorphic (changed form). Mineral
matter within the rocks are rearranged by the pressure and
chemically altered by reactions with fluids that enter the
rocks. Marble is a metamorphic rock formed when
limestone is exposed to intense pressure and heat. Quartzite
is metamorphosed quartz sandstone. Schist and Slate are
Marble
examples of medium-grade metamorphism of platy or fine-
grained rocks like Shale. Gneiss is a high-grade
metamorphic rock, one formed from pre-existing rocks
subjected to intense pressures deep inside the crust.
Sediments are pieces of rock that have been physically and chemically removed from bedrock.
The process of breaking the bedrock into pieces of sediment is called weathering, while the
removal of the loose sediment away from the bedrock (by the movement of wind, water or ice) is
called erosion. Sediments are classified by their size, and ranging from enormous boulders to
tiny grains of clay the classification is boulder-cobble-gravel-sand-silt-clay. Once eroded from
the bedrock source, these sediments are transported downhill (often in flowing streams and
rivers) away from high places and they are ultimately deposited in low-lying areas like oceans,
lakes or valleys (collectively known as depositional basins). It is in these depositional basins that
sediments can pile up over time creating layers of sediments that are thousands of feet thick.
Tephra (or pyroclasts) refers to solid fragments of rock ejected into the air during a volcanic
eruption. These range in size from tiny pieces of pulverized rock called ash to boulder-sized
bombs. Once pyroclasts have fallen to the ground they remain as tephra unless hot enough to
fuse together into pyroclastic rock, also known as tuff. Volcanic eruptions can also produce
liquid (molten) rock. Magma is molten rock found under the surface of the earth, while Lava
refers to magma that escapes onto the surface.
Soil is “rotten” rock material that forms on top of sediment or bedrock. Soil forms best when the
surface of the rock material easily interacts with moisture, air, plant roots, and burrowing
organisms. The more contact with each of these, the more readily the soil tends to form. For this
reason, soils tend to form fastest in warm, moist environments with plenty of plant roots and
burrowing insects providing channels for air and water to interact directly with the rock material.
Even so, it takes hundreds or thousands of years for soils to fully develop, and in cold, dry
environments it might take tens of thousands of years to develop a sizeable thickness of soil.
It is clear to see that sediments are being deposited into a low-lying basin (a lake or sea) and that
the bottom layers are likely being compacted and cemented into sedimentary rocks, rocks too
deep for us to ever see them being formed. This diagram also shows high mountains in the
background, mountains that are being worn down by the erosive forces of ice, water, and wind
(aided by gravity). The river transports the eroded rock material from the mountains to the lake.
At first glance you might conclude that over time the lake will fill up with sediment being
transported along the river bed. Though this might indeed be true for some places on earth, it is
not true for most places. The reason is that earth is a dynamic place with a constant battle going
on between internal processes (tectonic forces, volcanic forces) that tend to make mountains
grow and force valleys down, and external process (weathering, erosion, mass wasting) which
At the same time, and on a continuous basis, external processes wear down the mountains as ice
widens the cracks in the rocky surfaces, water weakens the chemical bonds between the minerals
within the rocks, and gravity helps pull the weakened pieces of rock down-slope. Water does
most of the work, and once the sediment has been transported into the stream it is the water that
carries or bounces the sediment down-stream towards the lake. The sediment bouncing along the
river bottom bangs into other pieces of rock, knocking sharp edges off, so that the sediment gets
continually smaller and rounder in shape the longer it stays in the river channel. Finally, the
sediment gets deposited into the lake, piling up over the years so that given time, enough weight
is exerted to crush and cement together grains of sediment into sedimentary rocks.
External forces change from day-to-day, while internal forces act sporadically over the millennia
and can completely change their form over tens of millions of years. Forces that once created
deep valleys can reverse direction, uplifting lake bottoms to expose layers of sediment and
sedimentary rock. In fact, the upper slopes of high mountains like the Himalayas contain
fossilized shells of ancient organisms deposited on the bottom of shallow seas. How do you
think those fossilized shells got there?
After extensive field work in Greenland followed by detailed research, Wegener published the
theory in The Origin of Continents and Oceans (Die Entstehung der Kontinente und Ozeane) in
1915. He expanded his ideas in subsequent editions until his death while performing research on
the Greenland ice sheet in 1930.
Wegener’s work wasn’t published in English until 1922, with a US printing in 1925. His ideas
sparked fierce debate in the scientific community, and the theory never caught on during
Wegener’s lifetime. He was quite literally laughed off stage when presenting his ideas. The
main problem with Continental Drift was that there was no viable mechanism for the “drift”.
Wegener had proposed that the driving force might be the centrifugal force created by earth’s
rotation but this force proved mathematically too weak to be the driving mechanism. One
prominent scientist who did take Wegener seriously was Arthur Holmes.
Arthur Holmes, a British Geology professor, was open enough to new ideas that he took
Wegener’s ideas seriously, and he conceived a viable mechanism. Holmes’ early work focused
on the radioactive decay of earth materials, with the goal being to accurately determine the age
of the earth. His familiarity with the radioactive decay of rocks led to him to the idea that the
heat released from these materials inside the earth might be sufficient to promote thermal
convection in the mantle, which in turn could rip ocean basins apart and push continents to the
side. If true, this would be the driving force that Wegener’s theory lacked. Still, evidence was
needed to show that mantle convection was occurring, but much of this evidence was under
thousands of feet of sea water.
Harry H. Hess was a Geology professor at Princeton University but
during World War II he was the captain of a US Navy transport ship
equipped with sonar. Using the echo-sounding sonar device Hess
was able to map profiles of the Pacific Ocean’s depths. He noted
extremely deep areas near the Marianas Islands and unusual flat-
In fact, when basaltic lava cools and crystallizes into basaltic rock, the magnetic minerals align
themselves with the earth’s magnetic north pole, locking into the rocks evidence of the
orientation of earth’s magnetic field. Turns out that earth’s magnetic poles reverse direction on
an irregular pattern with a frequency ranging from about 100,000 years to 1 million years. In
essence, the North Magnetic Pole becomes the South Magnetic Pole, and vice versa, with the
reversal taking a few thousand years to complete. By the early 1960s it was finally recognized
that the ‘zebra-strip’ patterns recorded by the magnetometers showed the historical record of
Text © Darren Leaver 2018
these magnetic field reversals, which were an exact mirror-image pattern on both sides of the
mid-oceanic rift zones.
The idea of Sea Floor Spreading now attracted the attention of many scientists, but one more
piece of evidence was needed to complete the puzzle
that Ortelius began to sort out almost 400 years
earlier. By the 1960s the search for oil had moved
offshore, so oil exploration companies built ships
capable of drilling from an oil platform mounted on
an ocean-going ship. This technology was adapted to
research vessels, the first of which was the Glomar
Challenger, which in 1968 set off on a year-long
mission to drill and collect samples of the Atlantic
Ocean’s sediments and underlying bedrock.
Image: http://pubs.usgs.gov/gip/dynamic/glomar.html
Radioactive isotope dating of the basaltic bedrock samples confirmed what many scientists now
already believed, that the age of the bedrock was progressively older with distance from the Mid-
Atlantic Ridge (the Atlantic’s mid-ocean rift zone). The result was an overwhelming acceptance
of a whole new paradigm in geosciences called Plate Tectonic Theory. The theory combines the
ideas of Wegener’s Continental Drift, Holmes’ Mantle Convection, Hess’ Sea Floor Spreading
and the newest available data of magnetic striping and radiometric dating of the ocean floor
basalts into a single, unified theory.
Tectonic Plates average about 40 miles in thickness but their thickness varies considerably from
less than 10 miles near mid-ocean rift zones to over 100 miles for very old continental interiors.
The following map shows the thickness of the earth’s crust in kilometers (1km = 0.62 mile). The
map doesn’t include the uppermost mantle, which is very thin near mid-ocean ridges and gets
considerable thicker with distance from these rift zones.
It is at the edges of plates (called Plate Boundaries) where most of the action takes place,
including most of the planet’s earthquakes
and volcanoes. While new ocean
lithosphere is being created at mid-ocean
rift zones and then carried horizontally by
mantle convection, an equal volume of
lithosphere is being consumed (destroyed)
at plate boundaries on the edges of many
oceans. This way, the earth is not
expanding in size, as equal amounts of
lithosphere are being created and destroyed.
The lithosphere is basically being recycled
on a continuous basis.
There are three main types of plate boundaries identified as convergent, divergent, and transform
boundaries. There is a fourth type of boundary called Plate Boundary Zone where the plate
boundaries are either not clearly defined or too complex to assign as either convergent, divergent
or transform.
• Oceanic-Oceanic Convergence occurs when two lithosphere plates with oceanic crust are
forced towards each other. This appears to occur most when an oceanic plate converges
with a continent, which in this case acts as a
block. At first, the thin, dense oceanic
lithosphere tends to bow downwards but in
this case, a break develops offshore within
a weak area of the oceanic crust. The
result is subduction of oceanic lithosphere
below similar oceanic lithosphere at the
break point, which in this case is an
extremely deep oceanic trench. The
subducting slab drags water along with it into the mantle, and the resulting partial melting
rises to the surface to produce a line of undersea volcanoes and volcanic islands known as
island arcs. Classic examples of island arcs include the islands of Indonesia, the
Philippines, Japan, and the Caribbean. In each of these cases we see (in order) a
continent, a shallow sea, a volcanic arc, a deep oceanic trench, and finally the deep ocean
abyssal plain. In some parts of the world including the Marianas Islands in the eastern
By analyzing the dynamics of plate boundaries we’ve been able to see why Iceland is
volcanically active, why the Atlantic Ocean is growing in size, why California is subjected to
large earthquakes, and why places like Japan, Indonesia, Chile and Peru experience both
HOT SPOTS
There are places on earth which experience volcanic activity, yet they are located thousands of
miles from a plate boundary. A classic example of this is the Hawaiian islands, which are
entirely of volcanic origin yet are have located over 2,000 miles from the closest tectonic plate
boundary. The Hawaiian Islands stretch in a rather straight 300-mile line from the Big Island of
Hawaii, with its active volcanoes of Kilauea and Mauna Loa, northwest to the islands of Maui
(with evidence of volcanic activity as recent as 1 million years ago), Molokai, Oahu, and finally
Kauai, which has not been volcanically active for over 5 million years. The line of extinct
undersea volcanoes and volcanic islands extends beyond the political borders of Hawaii to
include the Emperor Seamounts and even Midway Island, some 1,200 miles northwest of
Hawaii’s active volcanoes.
The mystery of how these volcanic islands came to be was uncovered in 1963 by a Canadian
geologist by the name of J. Tuzo Wilson, who reasoned that semi-stationary hotspots located
within the mantle partially melt the lower portion of lithosphere located directly above it. This
partial melting produces a steady, long-lasting supply of magma which upwells to the surface,
burning its way through the Pacific Ocean lithosphere, creating volcanic islands (or underwater
seamounts) growing from the on the ocean floor of the Pacific. As the lithospheric plate rides
over the mantle hotspot, the volcanic islands that formed on the ocean bottom become
increasingly detached from
the upwelling magma plume,
and when a threshold has
been exceeded, the magma
plume changes course and
begins to build a brand new
undersea volcano. In the
Hawaiian Islands, it is the Big
Island of Hawaii that
currently over the hotspot,
which is actively supplying
magma to the island’s
volcanoes. The island of
Kauai was located
immediately above this same
hot spot 5 million years ago,
and has since ridden on its
lithospheric conveyor belt
300 miles to the northwest
and its volcanoes are
considered long extinct.
Diagram courtesy of USGS: http://pubs.usgs.gov/imap/2800/
Within the earth’s mantle rock material is constantly being melted into magma. Since this
magma is less dense than the surrounding mantle rocks it rises as a magma plume through the
lithosphere and accumulates in a reservoir of magma known as a magma chamber. At times,
the magma solidifies underground, crystallizing into igneous intrusive rocks. However,
sometimes the magma finds its way upward through cracks, fissures and vents, finally extruded
in a heated rush of lava or violently erupted as gas, lava and tephra (airborne fragments) from the
earth’s surface; a volcano is born as a cone-shaped feature made of layers of lava and ash.
Though every volcano has unique characteristics based largely on the chemistry and temperature
of the magma, volcanoes can be assigned to one of five basic types known as shield volcanoes,
composite volcanoes, cinder cones, lava domes and calderas.
Shield volcanoes, like Kilauea in Hawaii, form by
effusive eruptions of layer-upon-layer of fluid,
basaltic lava. The hot, fluid lava runs down the
gently-sloping volcanic slope for many miles
before solidifying, so these volcanoes do not tend
to have steep slopes. Instead, the gently-sloping
volcanic shape resembles a warrior's shield.
Shield volcanoes can erupt from a central vent or
from cracks along the slope of the volcano known
as fissures.
Hawaii’s fissure eruptions (http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/images/pglossary/fissure.php) can extrude
vast quantities of basaltic lava which can
blanket the landscape in what are referred
to as flood basalts. These basaltic lavas
come in three main varieties. Pahoehoe
is basaltic lava that has a smooth, lobed
surface. When pahoehoe solidifies it is
easy to walk on, though you can still hear
the cracking of the new rock beneath
your feet as you walk on it.
Photo: Kilauea Fissure Eruption.
http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/Imgs/Jpg/Kilauea/32512553-001_large.jpg
Note: For more viscous fissure eruptions involving silica-rich lava like that of rhyolite, there is an additional type of
flow called blocky. Here, the lava breaks into large blocks measuring several feet in diameter.
Composite Volcanoes (or Stratovolcanoes) are steep-sided, cone-shaped features built from
explosive eruptions that are followed by extrusions of effusive lava. The result is that composite
volcanoes are composed of alternating layers of ash and cinders with silica-rich extrusive rocks
which solidified from viscous lava. These are extremely explosive features due to the viscous
nature of the magma feeding them. The Cascade Range, running from Northern California to
Washington State and continuing to British Columbia, contains many active composite
volcanoes including Mt. Shasta, Mt. Lassen, Mt. Baker, Mt. Rainier, and the infamous Mt. St.
Helens, which erupted violently in May of 1980 (see below).
Mount St. Helens BEFORE the 1980 eruption.
Photos: http://edc2.usgs.gov/pubslists/teachers-packets/volcanoes/poster/poster.php#posterfig5
http://edc2.usgs.gov/pubslists/teachers-packets/volcanoes/lesson6/lesson6.php
List of US Volcanoes by region: http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/about/volcanoes/region/index.php
Calderas: http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/images/pglossary/caldera.php
The Volcanic Explosivity Index (VEI) is used to quantify the magnitude of explosive volcanic
eruptions, in much the same way the Moment Magnitude is used to measure earthquake strength.
The VEI ranges from 0 (small, non-explosive eruptions) to 8 for super-volcanic, cataclysmic
eruptions. The index is logarithmic, so each step up in category represents a ten-fold increase in
explosivity, The VEI is calculated using several factors including the volume of erupted tephra,
the maximum height of ash column, and the duration of the eruption.
The figure to the right shows the volumes of several
key explosive eruptions and their corresponding
VEI. The numbers in parentheses represent total
volume of uncompacted erupted tephra, ash, and
pyroclastic flows ejected by the eruption.
The figure shows that the eruption of California’s
Long Valley Caldera (near Mammoth Lakes) some
760,000 years ago had a VEI of 7 and a volume of
600 km3 of material. Larger still was the explosive
eruption at Yellowstone about 600,000 years ago
with a VEI of 8 and a volume of about 1,000 km3 of
pyroclastic material from the volcano.
Here’s another way of showing the volume of ash
ejected during selected eruptions. Compare the
May, 1980 Mt. St. Helens eruption with that of
Krakatau (1883) and Tambora (1815).
Tephra (airborne ash and coarser debris) is composed of tiny fragments of volcanic rock
blasted into the atmosphere. Tephra falling back to the ground can build up in such thick
layers it causes roofs to collapse, especially when accompanied by rainfall. Tephra can also
endanger the lives of people with respiratory problems. It can clog machinery, including
aircraft engines. In April of 2010 tephra from an Icelandic volcano was responsible for
grounding Western Europe’s entire fleet of commercial aircraft for over a week.
Pyroclastic flows are hot, glowing clouds of tephra and super-heated gas that can travel at
over 100 miles per hour down the slopes of volcanoes, incinerating all objects and people in
their path. Pyroclastic flows at Mount Unzen, Japan, in June, 1991, killed 43 people including
world-renowned volcanologists Maurice and Katia Kraft.
Lava flows are usually slow-moving or largely confined to predictable paths, so they don’t
often prove to be deadly to humans. However, volcanoes can erupt for decades at a time, with
lava destroying anything in its path. Hawaii’s Kilauea has erupted almost continuously since
1983, with lava flows destroying the village of Kalapana in 1991.
Magma rising through the lithosphere may run out of energy before reaching the surface, in
which case the magma can solidify within the crust as a mass of igneous intrusive rock known as
a pluton or igneous intrusion. Igneous intrusions come in all shape and sizes since the magma
that forms these plutons can rise on the order of just weeks, or for tens of millions of years.
Some common forms include batholiths, laccoliths, stocks, dikes and sills.
FOLDING FEATURES
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fold_(geology)
Image from:
http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&sa=X&biw=1366&bih=667&tbm=isch&prmd=imvns&tbnid=mmHP1YRGj59fbM:&imgref
url=http://geology1a-
1.wikispaces.com/Folds%2Band%2BFaults%2Bwith%2Bcaptions&docid=iVXqMBCXgI7yfM&imgurl=http://geology1a-
1.wikispaces.com/file/view/folds.jpg/92356584/folds.jpg&w=600&h=433&ei=q_LbTq2fDcvZiAKJnNmqCg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vp
x=1061&vpy=117&dur=3697&hovh=191&hovw=264&tx=171&ty=94&sig=114094837325809326006&page=1&tbnh=141&tbnw
=195&start=0&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:6,s:0
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Rainbow_Basin.JPG
Faults are usually divided into three main types known as normal, reverse (thrust), and strike-slip
faults.
A normal fault is a break in the earth’s crust due to the crust being pulled apart and thinned out
(geologists refer to this as crustal extension). The thinning crust breaks into individual blocks
bounded by steep fault lines, with some blocks being pulled down and adjacent blocks being
forced upwards. The net result is a series of mountain ranges separated by deep valleys as in the
Basin and Range Province extending from eastern California to Utah.
A strike-slip fault is a localized break in bedrock where two blocks slide past one another along
the fault line. California’s San Andreas Fault is not only a Transform Plate Boundary, it’s also a
famous example of a strike-slip fault. Strike-slip faults come in two varieties; Left-lateral
strike-slip faults are those where the opposite side of the fault moves to the left during an
earthquake, as with California’s Garlock Fault. Right-lateral strike-slip faults are those where
the displacement on the opposite side of the fault is to the right. This is the case with the San
Andreas Fault.
Moment Magnitude (Mw) is the modern scale used by the United States Geological Survey
(USGS) for measuring the energy released during an earthquake. The magnitude is based on
the seismic moment of the earthquake, which is calculated from strength of the ruptured rocks,
the length of the fault rupture, and the average displacement. These parameters are obtained
from both seismographs, field observations, and geodetic measurements. The scale is
logarithmic, so an increase of one step corresponds to a 101.5 (approx. 32 times) increase in the
amount of energy released, and an increase of two steps corresponds to a 103 = 1000 times
increase in energy. Moment Magnitude is accurate for an entire range of earthquake magnitudes,
which is not true of the old Richter scale. Lastly, there is only one Moment Magnitude for an
earthquake, even though the shaking is generally stronger near the epicenter and in general gets
less with distance from there. To explain and measure the shaking intensity, we have to look to a
different scale.
The Modified Mercalli Intensity scale (MM) is used to quantify the intensity of an earthquake
by measuring the earthquake’s effects on the landscape, people, and buildings. This scale ranges
from I (not even felt) to XII (total destruction of buildings and bridges), and a single earthquake
will produce multiple values based in a general sense on the distance from the earthquake’s
epicenter.
There isn’t a direct correlation between Moment Magnitude and Modified Mercalli Intensity, as
many factors such as bedrock topography, surface topography, earthquake depth, land use, and
population influence the MM scale. A weak but shallow earthquake below a densely populated
city could yield a moderate intensity on the MM scale, whereas a strong but deep earthquake
under a sparsely populated area would produce a very low intensity on the MM scale. With that
said, when averaging out the data from hundreds of earthquakes, a general correlation can be
identified between earthquake magnitude and earthquake intensity (see below).
(http://earthquake.usgs.gov/learn/topics/mag_vs_int.php)
AMPLIFICATION http://earthquake.usgs.gov/learn/glossary/?term=amplification
Earthquake motions are recorded on seismographs, sensitive instruments that record ground
motions on a continuous basis. Thousands of seismographs are placed around the globe, giving
us an ability to monitor ground motions in most every ‘corner’ of the world. When an earthquake
occurs, the seismograph can record important data such as the duration of the quake and the
amplitude of the shaking. Comparing data from multiple seismographs allows scientists to
pinpoint the epicenter of the earthquake, the direction of rupture, and ultimately the fault
responsible for the quake. Earthquakes can be categorized into three main types; foreshocks,
mainshocks and aftershocks.
Foreshocks are relatively smaller earthquakes that are followed shortly thereafter by a larger
earthquake. Obviously, you cannot tell that an earthquake is only a foreshock until after the
subsequent larger earthquake (called a mainshock) occurs, and not all mainshocks are preceded
by foreshocks. According to the USGS (http://earthquake.usgs.gov/learn/kids/abc/parents/pf.html)
“About 6% of the time in California an aftershock will be larger than its mainshock. We then change
our terminology and call the first earthquake a foreshock and the aftershock is called the mainshock.
The most notable difference between foreshock-mainshock pairs and mainshock-aftershock pairs is
that foreshocks always occur very close in space to their mainshock. Although aftershocks often
occur over the full length of the fault and sometimes tens of kilometers away from the fault, we have
never seen a foreshock more than 10 km away from its mainshock. Because of the possibility that
any earthquake could be a foreshock, the state of California has issued earthquake advisories when an
earthquake has occurred within 10 km of a fault long enough to produce a major earthquake such as
the San Andreas fault. Just like most aftershocks occur right after their mainshock, most mainshocks
occur very soon after their foreshock. The most likely time for a mainshock is within the first hour
(one-quarter of all mainshocks happen within an hour of their foreshock) and after three days the risk
of a larger event is almost gone. This is important to remember if you ever hear an earthquake
advisory. The most likely time for the potential mainshock is immediately and any action you take in
response to the advisory should be something you are willing to be doing in a big earthquake.”
The mainshock is the largest earthquake in a sequence, possibly but not necessarily preceded by
one or more foreshocks, and almost always followed by many aftershocks.
Check out this animation showing foreshocks (blue), the mainshock (red) and aftershocks (yellow):
http://earthquake.usgs.gov/learn/animations/animation.php?flash_title=Aftershock+Flash+Anima
tion&flash_file=aftershock&flash_width=400&flash_height=275
As for earthquake timing, there is no special ‘earthquake time’. Earthquakes occur in geologic
time and although many Californians tend to believe that earthquakes occur more often in the
early morning hours, there is no supporting evidence for this. True, the two largest California
earthquakes of the 20th century occurred between 4 and 5am, but the third largest occurred at 10
pm. and California has experienced large earthquakes at 1am, 8am, and 5pm. Earthquakes can
When the ocean has been faulted upwards water and energy are displaced in all directions across
the ocean surface. In the deep ocean tsunamis can travel at speeds of 500 mph or more, but as
they approach shallow coastlines they slow down and build into massive waves or a series of
waves-built-on-waves. As the waves crash on shore they are often traveling 30 to 40 mph and
can be over 50 or even 100 feet high. There is no outrunning a tsunami, so the best protection is
an early warning and seeking the safety of high (very high) ground.
http://earthquake.usgs.gov/learn/kids/abc/parents/pt.html
LIQUEFACTION
Liquefaction http://earthquake.usgs.gov/learn/glossary/?term=liquefaction
Liquefaction is the process where water-saturated sediment loses internal strength as a result of
earthquake shaking. The process is most common in unconsolidated silt and fine sand deposits
Animation:
http://earthquake.usgs.gov/learn/animations/animation.php?flash_title=Liquefaction+Flash+Ani
mation&flash_file=liquefaction&flash_width=450&flash_height=200
EARTHQUAKE PREPARATION
Please read so that you’re prepared for the BIG ONE!! This was initially written for parents to inform and
prepare their children but it is still valid for us.
Recent images of earthquakes and tsunamis from around the world have captivated us all,
reminding us of mother nature’s immense power. No matter how terrifying the images, these
events have a tendency to fade from our minds over time, and are soon removed from our thoughts
completely even though with live with the constant threat of a large earthquake in California.
So what can we do about this? The answer…...nothing at all…and everything we can.
The question is not IF we’ll experience a large quake, the question is WHEN…and there is
absolutely nothing we can do to stop these earthquakes from occurring.
Then again, to protect ourselves and our children from the forces unleashed by a large earthquake,
we can do so very much if we plan in advance
Most Southern Californians are aware of the risk of experiencing earthquakes, but our children
may not be so aware, and most of us are not prepared our homes or families for a large earthquake.
To prepare, every family (that’s adults and children) needs to discuss what to expect during an
earthquake, what to do during and after the event, and how to prepare now for an earthquake.
The first step is to discuss the following with the whole family that:
1. We do indeed have earthquakes in Southern California (a favorite children’s book on this is The
Magic Tree House - Earthquake in the Early Morning, by Mary Pope Osborne)
2. Though the shaking might be scary, it will only last between 30 seconds and 3 minutes
3. During the shaking they should stay away from buildings if already outside, and if inside they
should drop to the floor or hide under the closest safe space, and cover their head with their
hand…hold on…be quiet …and try not to panic. The motto here is Drop-Cover-Hold.
4. Once the shaking stops children should shout out so parents or teachers know where they are,
and then quickly get to a safe place as aftershocks will likely occur within minutes. Normally,
aftershocks are not as strong and do not last nearly as long, but they can still add to the damage.
5. Identify where to meet and where to call to "check in" if you become separated from your
family during a disaster (older children with cell phones should have parents #s programmed and a
phone# for a point of contact to check in with if local lines are down or overloaded). All family
members can also contact RedCross.org to register on the Safe and Well Website or call 1-866
GET-INFO and they will register for you.
Water
After an earthquake your main water source may be broken or contaminated, so you need to have
a plan for drinking water. This can be done by storing a case or more of bottled water for every
person in your household (plus pets!). Another option is to use the water in your water heater or
swimming pool, which will need to be filtered - using a Brita or Pur type filter (many of us have
these already but make sure you have extra filters) to remove the chlorine– and then boiled to kill
any germs.
FIRST AID
Sterile adhesive bandages of different sizes
(fun character ones will take your child’s mind off of minor scrapes or cuts,etc).
Bandages and tape
Peroxide
Scissors, tweezers
Antibiotic cream
Aspirin, Children’s Tylenol or other pain reliever
Copies of all medications currently being taken
- Take a CPR class (even children age 11+ can get first certification through Red Cross)
Clothes
Everyone in your house should have a complete change of clothes and a pair of sturdy shoes or
boots stored in the disaster kit. Old shorts, sweat shirts, t-shirts and sandals (maybe best to stick
with tennis due to glass and debris) would be ideal. Diapers might be needed for the little ones.
Camping Gear
You might well have camping gear around, and this will come in handy after an earthquake. If
you store it in an easily accessible area, you should be able to get to it even if your house or
garage is slightly damaged during the quake. It would be beneficial to have a plastic tarp or two,
blankets, sleeping bags and even a tent if you already have one. You’ll need something to cook
your food and boil your water with, so a camp stove or even your propane barbeque will do this
well. Remember, you’ll need fuel for these, so if you have a camp stove or bbq, always keep 2
extra bottles around. You’d hate to find yourself in need of propane AFTER an earthquake.
The important lesson here is to make a plan, include the whole family in it, and put the
plan into action. When the ‘big one’ comes, you and your family will be very glad you did.
Please remember to take a look at the following online resources for more details and
ideas:
www.earthquakecountry.info
www.dropcoverhold.org
www.seismic.ca.gov
www.scec.org (So Cal EQ Center)
www.redcross.org (has a very good Earthquake Safety Checklist).
Weathering
Weathering essentially refers to the breaking down or chemical alteration of rock material at or
just below the earth’s surface. Weathering usually results in smaller, weaker rock fragments and
molecules which can then be more easily removed and transported (eroded) by wind, water, ice
and gravity. There are two main forms of weathering known as Physical Weathering (sometimes
referred to as Mechanical Weathering) and Chemical Weathering.
Physical weathering involves physically breaking rocks into fragments without changing the
chemical make-up of the rock material. This can be achieved in numerous ways, including:
• Freeze-Thaw: This process occurs when ice forms inside existing cracks or pores
within rocks. As the ice forms it exerts enough pressure to extend the cracks deeper
into the rock. If this ice subsequently melts, the water can make its way deeper into the
cracks of the rock. If
this water was to freeze
once more (and
expand), the cracks
would extend further
into the rock material.
This process can be
especially effective in
mountainous
environments where
mild temperatures can
be experienced during
the day followed by
freezing temperatures
at night. This
repetitious freeze-thaw
action is responsible
for the ice wedging in
the high altitude rock outcrops of California’s mountains including the Sierra Nevada
where rocks, large and small, have been wedged from their source before falling to form
a talus cone at the base of cliffs.
• Salt Crystal Growth: In dry desert environments salt crystals growing in the pores,
cracks and joints of rocks can cause the physical
break-up of the rock material. Crystal growth
occurs when salty water finds its way into the pores
or spaces of rocks. As this salty water dries out,
pure water evaporates into the atmosphere while
the salt crystalizes and grows in the cracks of the
rocks. The growth of the salt crystals puts pressure
on the rock, causing the cracks and pores to extend
further into rocks, ultimately breaking them into
ever-smaller pieces.
Rock broken up by salt crystal growth. Photo by Kathy Duret.
• Erosional Unloading (exfoliation): Some types of rocks (e.g. igneous intrusive and
some metamorphic rocks) are formed at great depth in the earth’s crust, under
tremendous pressure. The high pressure, a result of the weight of all those layers of
overlying rock material, tends to create very dense, uniform rocks without cracks or
pores. When these rocks are uplifted towards the earth’s surface and the overlying
rocks are weathered and eroded away, they become subjected to progressively less
external pressure. Think of a page of notebook paper that you crumple up as tight as
you can to form a paper ball. Once you let go of the
paper and are no longer applying pressure, the paper
ball you just created will grow larger. Rocks created
under pressure act the same way as they are uplifted
towards the earth’s surface. The lower pressure
creates tension within the rock materials which
expand as a result, and a pattern of cracks (called
joints) forms within the rocks. The joints typically
form a pattern of 90-degree angles relative to the overlying surface.
Photo of exfoliated granitic rocks by Kathy Duret.
These joints are then exposed to other types of weathering, which further enhances the
extent of the cracks. This can result in blocky, cube-like outcrops in some locations or
an onion-layer appearance on the surface of large rock domes.
Chemical weathering involves a chemical change in the rock material by removing (or at
times, adding to) elements from the chemical structure of the rock material. Chemical
weathering occurs in-place, and there is no significant movement of the rock material. The
major types of chemical weathering include the following:
• Carbonation: Rock materials that are
subjected to acidic water can be significantly
weakened as their chemical composition is
disrupted by chemical reaction with carbonic
acid. This form of chemical weathering is
referred to as carbonation. Rainfall is naturally
acidic due in part to the mixing of carbon
dioxide and water in the atmosphere. The
carbon dioxide and water combine to form a
weak acid known as carbonic acid. This acidity
can be accentuated through the presence of atmospheric pollutants (recall our
discussion of Acid Rain). When precipitation occurs, the acidic rain drops interact with
rock materials at the earth’s surface. All
rock materials that interact with rainfall or
infiltrated soil water/groundwater have to
contend with acidic water, but rocks
composed of calcite minerals, such as
limestone, are the most susceptible to
carbonation. For limestone and similar
rock types, carbonic acid can dissolve the
rock material and carry the soluble
compounds away, leaving behind a void.
The voids can range in size from miniscule
to giant cave systems.
Tropical karst landscape, Ha Long Bay, Vietnam - created largely by the process of carbonation. Photos by author.
Add solution, stalagmites, etc.??
• Hydration/Hydrolysis: These are forms of chemical weathering where water
molecules are incorporated into the structure of minerals within rock material.
Hydration is where the entire water molecule is incorporated into the structure of the
mineral, making it larger and weaker than the original material. A key example is the
hydration of anhydrite minerals to form larger and weaker gypsum minerals. The
weaker gypsum minerals can then be physically weathered more easily. A similar
chemical weathering process involving water is Hydrolysis, but in this case the water
molecule (H2O) is broken up into its constituent ions (H+ and OH-), which are then
incorporated into the structure of the affected minerals. Hydrolysis makes the rock
material weaker and more susceptible to weathering. A key example is the very slow
hydrolysis of alkali feldspar minerals within granitic rocks, which yields soluble alkali
elements (potassium, sodium, calcium), clay minerals and quartz granules.
• Oxidation: Rock material that is exposed to oxygen (in the atmosphere or in water)
results in the mineral composition of the rock material being altered. This process,
called oxidation, occurs as oxygen atoms are incorporated into the structure of the
mineral, making the mineral less resistant to weathering.
As an example, rocks and minerals containing the element Iron
(Fe) change to a red color when oxidized. This color, and the
process that created it, are commonly called “rust”.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/04/Weathering_9039.jpg/1280px-Weathering_9039.jpg
MASS WASTING:
Weathered rock materials at elevated positions such as hills or mountains, along with the rocks
they sit atop, are susceptible to being dislodged and moved downhill under the forces of gravity,
water, ice and wind. Mass wasting is the process whereby soil, sediment, regolith and rocks move
downslope due mostly to the force of gravity, aided by the presence of water. The presence of
water in the pores and cracks adds weight to the weathered rock material while also lubricating
the slippage surfaces. The mass wasting process can proceed quickly, as in a large boulder falling
from a cliff, or very slowly, as in the decades-long downhill ‘creep’ of soil on a hill.
Factors that influence mass wasting include the following:
• Slope angle: In general, the steeper the slope angle the more it is susceptible to mass
wasting. For example, steep cliffs are typically more susceptible to mass wasting compared
to mild slopes. Slopes can be made steeper when rock material is added to the top of the
slope (as can happen with a growing volcano) or by removing rock material from the lower
portion of the slope. This undercutting of the ‘toe’ of the slope can occur through erosion
and construction projects. In addition, water flows faster on a steep slope compared to a
mild slope, and faster-flowing water has a great ability to pick up and entrain rock material,
vegetation and other material, creating a type of mass wasting called a ‘debris flow’. Debris
flows are mobilized much more frequently on steep slopes compared to mild slopes.
• Type of rock material: Some rock types are more susceptible to mass wasting than
others. Crystalline rocks such as granite have incredibly strong bonds between the
minerals within the rock, allowing them to stand firm, even while forming massive cliffs.
On the other hand, rock materials that are not tightly consolidated such as loose, sandy
sediment cannot form such steep cliffs, especially if this sediment is very dry or excessively
wet.
• Geologic bed angle and orientation. Sedimentary rocks are typically formed in
horizontal layers deep below the surface. Once uplifted, these geologic strata can be
deformed, bent and tilted to form mountains and hills. The uplifted strata can be tilted and
oriented at various angles and directions, so that some strata dip downward but into the
hillside, while other strata can dip downward and out of the hillside. Though there are
many factors to consider, rock beds that dip outward from a mountain or hillside are
generally more susceptible to mass wasting compared to rock beds that dip inward
towards a hillside or mountain. This is because rock layers that dip into a mountain can’t
easily slip into the mountain.
• Water content: Water located in voids, cracks and pore spaces adds weight to the rock
material and lubricates the geologic strata. If some of these rock layers are rich in clay, the
presence of water can reduce the cohesion (stickiness) between rock layers, allowing
slippage and flow to occur more readily. Think of your experience walking on dry clay
versus wet clay – I’m sure you found it easier to slip on the wet clay. These rock materials
on a slope can experience the same response. For this reason, mass wasting events such as
landslides, debris flows and slumps can occur more frequently in California’s winter and
spring, during and immediately after our winter storms have moistened our hillsides.
• Vegetative cover: The presence of vegetation is critical to the stability of rock materials
on hillsides and steep slopes. The root systems of plants help hold the soil, sediment and
regolith in place, thereby stabilizing hillsides. Even with torrential rainfall, the leaves of
plants can slow down the velocity of rain drops, lessening their impact on the soil surface.
Plants can also slow down the velocity of water flowing along the surface of a hillside,
thereby reducing the water’s potential to erode the hillside. Conversely, slopes that have
been denuded of vegetation following a wildfire, construction, or other land use change are
more susceptible to both mass wasting and erosion. Keep an eye on the news in the winter
following a major brush fire. You are certain to see coverage as neighborhoods prepare for
debris flows (which many in the news press incorrectly refer to as mudslides).
Individual grains of soil tend to move outward, parallel to the slope surface as the soil
expands, but then move vertically downward as the soil contracts. (diagram) → ↓ Repeated
action over months, years and decades leads to the slow downhill movement of the soil
grains. Deep tree roots can help protect slopes from soil creep, but shallow roots, poles,
fences and foundations are slowly carried rotated and carried downslope. The process
takes too long to be noticed by the naked eye but becomes very apparent after comparing
photographs taken years apart.
• Debris Flow (moderate to fast downhill movement). As the name implies, a debris flow is
the fluid downhill movement of soil, regolith, and unearthed vegetation flowing downhill
after a major rainfall event. The storm run-off
tends to get channeled into hillside canyons, where
the fast-moving floodwaters pick up soil, rock
fragments and even trees to form a thick concrete-
like slurry that moves downhill at speeds of 40mph
or more. This dense, fast-moving slurry smashes
anything in its path, then takes the new debris
along for the ride. The energy of the debris flow
dissipates once the canyon opens out into a valley
or alluvial plain, where the debris flow deposits a
fresh, wet layer of mud, sand, gravel, boulders and
plant debris.
Photo: Aftermath of a debris flow in California, 1998.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:FEMA_-_1337_-_Photograph_by_Dave_Gatley_taken_on_03-01-
1998_in_California.jpg
• Rock Fall (very fast downslope movement). A rock fall
occurs where rock fragments detach and freely fall down
a slope, such as a cliff face. Rock fall can occur as the
result of an earthquake, frost- or root-wedging of the
rock fragment, or even from disturbance of the rock
fragment by animals such as mountain goats. The fallen
rock material tends to accumulate at the base of the
slope. This fallen rock material is referred to as talus,
and the cone-shaped accumulation of rock material is
referred to as a talus cone.
Photo of talus cone. https://www.flickr.com/photos/gerrythomasen/9188093051
EROSION
As a reminder, erosion refers to the removal and transportation of rock fragments primarily by
the force of water, ice or wind. We will now explore the erosional processes associated with
flowing water, ice and wind, along with both the erosional and depositional landforms created by
these forces.
Glacial Processes.
Glacial landforms are created as thick accumulations of ice begin to move downhill under
the pull of gravity. The source of the glacial ice is snowfall, but the snow needs many
decades to gradually change from loose
snow into firn (unpacked ice) and
finally into dense glacial ice. Not all ice
at high elevation or high latitude will
move. It requires the weight of
hundreds of feet of glacial ice to push
downward with enough force to
partially melt the bottom layer, making
it fluid enough to commence movement.
It takes centuries or millennia to
accumulate sufficient weight to set the
glacial ice in motion. Once in motion,
the mass of ice flows as a ‘river of ice’
known as a glacier.
NASA photo of Sondrestrom Glacier, Greenland
https://www.nasa.gov/sites/default/files/thumbnails/image/sondrestrom.jpg
At the highest point of an alpine glacier, where the glacier first develops, we find a unique
landform known as a cirque, a lens-shaped excavation with the concave side of the lens
oriented downslope. Cirques have steep cliffs (called Arêtes) on the uphill sides, a
depression in the middle, and a slight ridge on the downhill side. If several cirques form on
the same mountain ridge, the intersecting lens shapes tend to form steep mountain spires
known as horns.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:YOSE_29_Glacial-features_WEB.jpg
Cirques form when ice wedges rock material from the steep cliff faces, which then fall and
accumulate along with snow and ice below the cliffs. When enough snow, rock and ice have
accumulated they begin to flow downslope as an alpine glacier. As the glacier commences
its downslope flow it scours the floor of the cirque. Since so much ice and rock material has
accumulated at the base of the cliffs, the glacier scours a
deep depression on the floor of the cirque before riding
over the small ridge on the downhill edge of the
depression. The glacier then exits the cirque and
continues downslope, carving and scouring a u-shaped
valley as it grinds downhill. In warmer times and when
glaciers have retreated, water trapped in the depression
of the cirque will often form a small glacial lake known as a tarn.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Cirque_glaciers#/media/File:Glacial_Cirque_Formation_EN.svg
Fresh snowfall, ice from avalanches, and ice from tributary glaciers adds to the ice content
of the upper portion of the glacier. This upper portion of the glacier, where new
accumulations snow and ice are greater than the amount lost to melting and sublimation is
referred to as the accumulation zone. As the glacier moves further downslope, it
encounters warmer and warmer temperatures, which tend to melt the ice and shrink the
glacier.
The lower portion of the glacier, where ice loss is greater than the amount being
replenished is referred to the ablation zone. The melted ice turns into glacial meltwater,
which tends to flow under the glacier before exiting at the glacier’s terminus in for form of
a river. Over decades, glaciers can grow in size and volume if there is more accumulation
than ablation, a situation that leads to glacial advance where the glacier’s location extends
further downslope. Alternatively, when glaciers experience more melting/ablation than
accumulation of new snowfall, the glacier loses volume and mass, and the glacier tends to
retreat upslope. This is not to say that the ice moves uphill, because all glacial ice moves
in a downslope direction. Instead, it means that for a glacier in retreat, the amount of ice
melting in the ablation zone is greater than the amount of ice moving in from the
accumulation zone.
Erosional Glacial Landforms
Besides cirques and aretes, there are other unique landforms associated with glaciers
moving down a mountain valley or from a continental interior towards the coast. Contrary
to popular belief, glacial ice does not cut out or carve the erosional landforms associated
with glacial landscapes. Instead, it is the rock
material incorporated into and carried along
with the glacial ice that does the erosional work.
These trapped rock fragments are responsible
for grinding, abrading and ‘scouring’ away the
rocks encountered on the sides and bottom of
the glacier, acting much like sandpaper. This
erosional process is referred to as glacial ‘scour’
and results in smoothly polished surfaces on the
sides and bottoms of glaciers.
Image: Souring of rock by a glacier
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Arranque_glaciar-en.svg
It should be noted that the main by-product of glacial scour is a finely-ground rock powder
known as glacial flour. This glacial flour is then carried downslope by the glacier and by
the meltwater running along the ice-rock interface. The presence of the glacial flour gives
fast-moving meltwater a powdery white appearance. Once the glacial meltwater slows
down, as when it reaches a lake, the glacial flour gives the water a wonderful aqua-blue
appearance like with New Zealand’s Lake Tekapo in the following photo.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Lake_Tekapo#/media/File:Lake_Tekapo.JPG
For alpine glaciation, the degree of scouring increases with the thickness of the ice, so
scouring is more effective in the center of an alpine glacier (where there is thicker ice)
compared to the sides of the glacier. Therefore, U-shaped valleys are a common erosional
landform associated with alpine glaciers.
Just as with rivers, glaciers have tributaries where large glaciers are fed by networks of
smaller glaciers. Since larger glaciers with thicker ice can scour the bottom rock layers
more efficiently, the tributary glaciers enter the main glacier high up in the ice mass. In
times of glacial retreat, evidence of these tributary glaciers can be seen high up on the cliff
face of the (now retreated) main glacier. These smaller u-shaped tributary valleys located
high up on cliff faces are referred to as hanging valleys and are clear evidence of previous
glaciation.
U-shaped valleys extending all the way to the ocean, creating long, narrow inlets with steep
cliff sides are referred to as fjords.
There are many such inlets in places like Norway, Alaska and New Zealand.
Photo of John Hopkins Inlet in Glacier Bay N.P. Alaska.
https://www.nps.gov/articles/ushapedvalleysfjordshangingvalleys.htm
Glacial plucking and scour can operate hand-in-hand to sculpture glacial landforms at the
base of a glacier with smoothly scoured, low-angle slopes in the uphill direction and steep,
blocky slopes that have been plucked in the downhill direction. These erosional landforms
are called rôches moutonnées and are used by glaciologists to determine the direction of
travel of an ancient glacier.
Meltwater exits the terminus (downslope end) of the glacier in the form of a river, carrying
with it large volumes of rock fragments that have been scoured and plucked by the glacier.
These fragments range in size
from grains of silt and clay to
boulders the size of trucks.
Depending on the velocity of the
river, these fragments can be
carried miles downstream,
strewing clay, silt, sand, gravel
and boulders across the
landscape in times of flood. If
the glacier terminates on land,
this jumbled assemblage of
glacially-derived sedimentary
rock fragments will be deposited
on the ground, creating a glacial
outwash plain.
This is not to say California didn’t feel the impact of these great ice sheets, as our climate,
weather, natural vegetation distribution, animal distribution, etc. were heavily impacted by
the presence of glacial ice and the factors that allowed them to exist at the time. There are
many landforms we can see in the Sierra Nevada today that were most definitely formed by
glacial activity thousands of
years ago. These include the U-
shaped glacial valley of Yosemite
along with its many waterfalls
emanating from hanging valleys.
On the Eastern side of the Sierra
Nevada there is further evidence
of glacial activity in the form of
numerous tarn lakes and lateral
moraines such as those shown in
this photo of McGee Creek near
Mammoth Lakes.
Moraines at McGee Creek, CA.
Photo by Kathy Duret.
Since the last glacial period California has warmed, the glaciers of the Sierra Nevada have
retreated and our climate has generally became more mild and moist. This created an
interconnected system of lakes and rivers being fed, in part, by the glacial meltwaters. We
can trace the eastward flow of meltwater from the Sierra Nevada. The meltwater formed a
series of rivers that would fill up valleys, which would themselves overflow into a
downstream river, fill up another valley, and so forth for hundreds of miles.
These glacially-fed lakes, called pluvial lakes, included Owens Lake, Searles Lake,
Panamint Lake, and Lake Manly, which at times had a depth of several hundred feet. Lake
Manly dried up once the flow of glacial meltwater ceased (in conjunction with a warmer,
dryer climate) and today the lake-less, dry location is better known as Death Valley.
Evidence of these pluvial lakes can be seen in the form of ancient shorelines which mark
the former size and extent of these lakes at various times.
The horizontal lines on Shoreline Butte, Death Valley, CA mark ancient shorelines of Pleistocene Lake Manly
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:ShorelineButte030710.JPG
AEOLIAN PROCESSES and LANDFORMS:
In dry regions such as deserts, where there is a ready supply of loose clay, silt or sand but very
little vegetation, wind can play a large role in the erosion, transportation and deposition of rock
materials. The key wind-driven processes (known as aeolian processes) in these arid areas
include deflation (the removal of loose rock particles by the wind) and abrasion (the
sandblasting of rocks and other materials by windborne particles). A landform shaped by the
wind is referred to as an aeolian landform which includes the iconic desert sand dune. (images)
Deserts that experience sustained aeolian erosion often form desert pavement, a near-
continuous surface layer of rock fragments that protects fine-grained sediments below from wind
erosion. This stony desert pavement is what remains after strong winds have removed the finer
particles from the desert surface. Desert pavement surfaces can exist for extensive time periods,
and the relative age of the pavement can be determined by analyzing the thickness of desert
varnish, a dark mineral stain that sometimes forms on desert pavement when exposed for a long
period of time.
Fine-grained sediments that have been deflated from the desert surface are carried down-wind in
three main ways; suspension, saltation and creep (see diagram).
• Suspension: Suspension refers to fine-grained particles like clay, silt and sand being
caught in and carried by wind above the ground surface. In general, sand-size particles can
only be suspended or a very short duration, and cannot rise more than a few inches or feet
above the surface. Silt particles can be suspended for a longer duration and travel higher
above the land surface. Clay and fine silt particles, due to their tiny size, can travel high
into the atmosphere and be suspended for a very long duration as atmospheric dust, and
under specific circumstances in deserts can develop into to dust storms.
• Saltation: Saltation is the downwind movement of silt and sand particles bouncing along in
a series of jumps and skips. Saltation in typical desert wind speeds would occur just a few
inches to feet above the ground surface, depending largely on the particle sizes and the
wind speed. As the particles skip and bounce along the surface, they tend to hit and
dislodge other downwind particles which then continue the saltation process.
• Creep: Saltating particles that bounce along the desert floor and hit larger particles that
are too heavy to be lifted above the ground (such as medium or course-grained sand) will
slowly push the larger particles further downwind in a process known as creep.
Abrasive rock particles that are transported downwind by saltation or suspension can impact
obstacles including large boulders and rock outcrops. Over time, these abrasive particles can
scratch and polish ventifacts including grooves and flutes into the boulders and outcrops.
Ventifacts on a boulder in the Mojave Desert, CA.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ventifacts_in_the_United_States#/media/File:Ventifact_MojaveDesert_2000.jpg
With extended exposure to abrasive winds, rock outcrops can be sculpted into linear, streamlined
features called yardangs.
The most iconic aeolian depositional landforms found in the desert are sand dunes, hills of loose
sand deposited by the wind. Sand dunes come in numerous shapes and sizes,
Three common types of desert sand dunes include the following:
(https://pubs.usgs.gov/gip/deserts/dunes/)
• Longitudinal Dunes. Longitudinal dunes (aka Linear or Seif Dunes) are long, straight sand
ridges that form parallel to one another and to the predominant wind direction. The linear
nature of these dunes channels the prevailing winds into
the troughs between the dunes. As the name suggests,
linear dunes are much longer than they are wide, in some
cases over 100 miles in length. Linear dunes can be
observed on the western edge of the Algodones Dunes in
southeastern California’s Coachella Valley.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/12/The_Algodones_Dunes.jpg
Linear dunes in the Great Sand Sea, Egypt.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?search=linear+dune&title=Special:Search&profile=default&fulltext=1&searchToken=drh
trory1is8ugs65yrm2ppc1#/media/File:Linear_Dunes,_Great_Sand_Sea,_Egypt_-_NASA_Earth_Observatory.jpg
Alluvial Fans: Alluvial fans are accumulations of clay, silt, sand, gravel and boulders (collectively
called alluvium) that have been deposited where a mountain canyon opens out onto the desert
floor. Physical and chemical weathering process in the mountains produce a continuous supply of
rock fragments, and during heavy rainfall events these fragments are ‘flushed’ out of the canyon
and are deposited as a fan-shaped slope reaching out towards the desert floor.
Alluvial fans coalescing to form a bajada in Death Valley, CA. Photo by Kathy Duret
Along mountain fronts where multiple nearby canyons deposit alluvial sediments onto the desert
floor, the alluvial fans tend to join together and coalesce into continuous apron of alluvium known
as a bajada.
Arroyos: Arroyos are deep gullies or channels cut into unconsolidated (soft) desert sediment of
by fast-moving flood waters. Arroyos typically have flat floors and steep banks and although they
are dry for much of the year, they can become a raging torrent under flash flood conditions.
Arroyo in the Mojave Desert, CA
https://www.publicdomainpictures.net/pictures/230000/velka/dry-river-bed-1503332194sXY.jpg
Racetrack Playa, CA
https://www.flickr.com/photos/gsfc/4882084749
For more details on desert processes and landforms on the Mojave Desert make sure to check out
https://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2004/1007/intro.html
Coastlines are dynamic zones where the
hydrosphere meets the various earth
materials of the lithosphere. It is the
Intertidal Zone, located between the
highest high tide and the lowest low-tide,
where wave energy, tides and currents erode
rock materials and deposit sediments to
create distinct coastal landscapes including
wave-cut cliffs, beaches and sand spits.
Waves are the most powerful force acting on the coastal zones. They get their energy from winds
blowing over ocean surfaces. The friction between the wind and the water surface generates
wave energy which then propagates outwards in all directions in the form of an ocean swell. For
example, when strong winter winds blow for several days or weeks in the Gulf of Alaska, the
swell can cross thousands of miles of the Pacific ocean before reaching the California coastline.
The distance between the area where a swell is generated and the coastline the swell reaches is
known as the fetch). In the deep ocean, the wave energy continues to travel in the form of the
ocean swell, with parallel lines of crests and troughs (see below).
As the wave energy approaches a coastline the energy interacts with the sea floor, thereby lifting
up the water surface to form an approaching wave. The sea bed slows down the bottom of the
wave while the crest of the wave continues along at a faster speed, causing the wave to become
progressively steeper until it eventually breaks on the coastline.
This water then migrates slowly back (known as backwash) to the ocean. In addition to the
saltwater, sediments are carried toward the beach in the swash, while sediments are carried back
toward the ocean in the backwash (more on this below).
There are two major types of waves. Constructive Waves are short in height and have a low
frequency (fewer waves arrive per minute). These waves have strong swash compared to
backwash, so they tend to deposit sediment onto the beach. Constructive waves are more
common during the California summer compared to winter.
Destructive Waves are taller, have a higher frequency and contain more energy. Destructive
waves have a weak swash component compared to their backwash, so they tend to erode the
beach as the backwash returns to the ocean.
The sediments along a coastline undergo multiple cycles of erosion, transportation and
deposition by both constructive and destructive waves. Ultimately, coastal sediments are broken
into ever-smaller fragments, transported and deposited offshore. Silt, sand and coarser sediment
are deposited onto the continental shelf while clay particles tend to be transported far offshore,
adding a thin layer (just a few millimeters) of clay particles to the deep ocean floor every
thousand years. http://www.boscorf.org/repository/curatorial-reference/accumulation-rates
COASTAL LANDFORMS
Coastal landforms are classified into two major groups: erosional landforms and
depositional landforms.
Depositional Landforms
Sediments are continuously eroded from coastlines or transported onto coastlines as rivers empty
into the sea. In general, the larger rock fragments (boulders, pebbles, gravel and sand) remain
close to the coastline, while finer sediments (silt and clay) remain suspended in the seawater for
much longer, are transported further offshore and are deposited in the deep ocean. Sand-size
grains tend to remain in the beach zone and are constantly being shifted by swash and backwash
of waves. Since most waves tend to hit the coastline at a slightly oblique angle, the sand grains
are slowly but constantly shifted along (parallel to) to the beach, a process is referred to as
Longshore drift.
Longshore drift is responsible for the transport of enormous amounts of sediment along the
coastline. Along the Southern California coastline much of the sand-sized sediment being
transported along the coast will eventually enter a submarine canyon and be deposited onto the
continental shelf. Prior to this, longshore drift can create several distinct depositional landforms
from the sand including beaches, spits, bars and tombolos. Let’s explore these in greater detail:
Beaches:
A beach is an area of coastal sediment exposed to wave action. A beach profile can change from
summer to winter due to the seasonal change in the type of wave types that pound the beach.
During the height of winter, when storm waves are more frequent, beach sediments can be
eroded from the beach. This ‘bare bones’ winter beach is referred to as the winter profile. The
sediment eroded from the winter beach is temporarily deposited as sandbanks just beyond the
surf zone. During the summer months, when the surf is generally milder, the sediment stored in
the sand banks is transported towards the land, and deposited onto the beach. This is referred to
as the beach’s summer profile.
Beach Profiles: https://www.friendsofibsp.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/beachprofile.jpg
Summer Winter
A sand spit that extends far enough out to connect the mainland to an island is termed a tombolo.
While the island itself is referred to as a tied island or land-tied island.
When a sea cliff contains weak rocks at its base, the crashing waves can hollow out a sea cave.
Once a sea cave is formed the waves tend to focus on the void, thereby enlarging the cave over
time.
When the arch collapses, the remaining column of rock is referred to as a sea stack.
RUNOFF
Fluvial processes (or surface water processes) on land are the ultimate step in Earth’s “Water
Cycle”. After precipitation over land, the water must return to its origin, the World’s oceans,
and thereby begin the cycle again. This return is mostly accomplished by runoff through rivers
or streams (used interchangeably herein). Runoff is not consistent throughout the seasons or
from year to year. Some streams are only “Ephemeral”, meaning that they carry water only
periodically after substantial precipitation. This is especially true in regions that are arid. For
example, the Mojave River in Southern California normally only carries water a few weeks out
of the year, but when it does so, it is often in torrential amounts.
As shown in the USGS Water Cycle diagram (below), evaporation exceeds precipitation over the
oceans. The excess moisture is transported over the land by advection (wind) before falling on
the land in the form of precipitation. The majority of this water is returned to the oceans by
runoff. This should look familiar since we initially discussed the Water Cycle in Chapter 6.
Over time, Earth’s gravity tends to move materials, including water, to the lowest available
elevations. On Earth’s surface the lowest elevations are at sea level, or in some instances even
below sea level. For example, Badwater Basin in Death Valley, California is actually 282 feet
below sea level. Accordingly, gravity pulls water on land down to sea level, unless it is trapped
in a lowland basin. The term used to describe the lowest elevation is “Base Level”, a concept
originally formulated by the great American hydrologist and explorer, John Wesley Powell
(1834-1902). A river can be defined as the path followed by liquid water to the lowest available
elevation.
On the other hand, the path is not free from obstacles. The riverbed is obviously made up of
Earth materials, such as vegetation, rocks, and soil. These materials are in contact with the
water molecules, and because of friction, disrupt and retard their flow. In other words, these
materials work against the pull of gravity.
DRAINAGE BASINS
The fundamental unit of fluvial processes is the “Drainage Basin” or “Watershed”. A Drainage
Basin is that area within which all water flows toward a common point, as a result of the
surrounding topography. That common point is usually the main trunk of a stream system.
A Drainage Basin can be as small
as a few square miles or over one
million square miles. For example,
the Mississippi-Missouri River
system flows from a Drainage
Basin that is about 1,244,000
square miles (3,222,000 square
km) or about 2/5 the size of the
contiguous United States.
Frequently, many smaller
Drainage Basins are nested within
a larger Drainage Basin.
Simply put, there are two main topographic components to a Drainage Basin, “Interfluves” and
“Valleys”. Interfluves are those higher elevation areas between valleys that generate overland
water flow toward the valleys. In contrast, valleys are those lower lying areas that hold the
established streams.
STREAM PATTERNS
In essence, streams simply follow the pull of gravity as influenced by topography and underlying
bedrock. If the underlying bedrock is uniform in strength, the pattern is “Dendritic”, similar to
that of a tree with many branches. Unlike a Dendritic stream, other streams are influenced by
the varying strengths of the bedrock. These include the “Trellis” pattern, which is formed
because of alternating hard and soft folded strata. The resulting topography is ridges and
valleys. This is typical of the Appalachian Region in the Eastern United States. The streams in
this Region follow a pattern with many running parallel to each other but then abruptly
changing direction at a 90 degree angle as they follow the ridges and valleys. Other streams
that are influenced by the underlying geologic structure include the “radial”, “rectangular” and
even the “deranged”, which follows a haphazard pattern, frequently the result of recent glacial
activity which has disrupted the prior topography.
STREAM ORDER
The structure of a stream tends to follow a hierarchical order. The tributary branching pattern is
the basis for this hierarchical system. A “Tributary” is simply a branch whose water flows into a
larger branch or segment of the same river system. By giving each tributary a numeric value we
are able to analyze and compare different stream systems and their relative water discharges.
This is especially applicable in analyzing a Dendritic stream system.
There are many different ways to order streams. However, one of the most useful is the
“Strahler” method, which provides that the initial small tributaries that constitute the
headwaters or origin of the system are 1st order streams. Two 1st order streams must join
together to make a 2nd order stream, and two 2nd order streams must join to make a 3rd order
stream, etc. Interestingly, the mighty Mississippi River is classified as a 10th order stream. As the
stream order increases (e.g. from 1 to 3 etc.) the following rules become evident:
1. Gradient or steepness decrease
2. Channel length and channel size increase
3. Drainage Basin size increases
4. Water volume or discharge amount increases
The “Gradient” of a stream can be defined as: ELEVATION CHANGE_________
DISTANCE (NUMBER OF MILES)
In other words, for every mile the river travels there is 400 feet of elevation change.
CHANNEL PATTERNS
The shape of a river channel is the result of many factors, including water volume, water
velocity, makeup of the channel banks and underlying bedrock, and the amount of sediment
being carried. There are four main kinds of channel patterns, “Straight”, “Sinuous”,
“Meandering”, and “Braided”.
The straight, sinuous, and meandering rivers are defined by the bends or curvature of their
channels; the straight being the least curved and the meandering being distinctly curved. In
nature, straight channels are not common and are usually short lived. Because of the
differences in bank strength, friction, and water speed, the water usually flows in a curved “S”
shaped pattern, and over time, the channel shape also takes on this pattern. The fastest flowing
part of the river is called the “Thalweg” and is located near the surface in the center of the
river. The water flows fastest in the Thalweg because there is less friction. The water flow on
one side of the Thalweg is usually somewhat slower than on the other side due to differences in
bank friction, which results in alternating erosion on the faster side and deposition on the
slower side.
A braided stream is the result of a river carrying large amounts of sediment, which is dropped in
the channel when the water volume or velocity decreases. The sediment is deposited in bars
and small islands that separate the river into strands, similar to a braid. In the diagram below
“D” depicts a braided stream and “E” depicts a typical meandering stream.
STREAM LOAD
Most people have observed that streams carry water, but in reality there is much more than
meets the eye. Not only do rivers transport water back to the oceans, but they also transport
bits and pieces of the land, in both solid and chemical form. The stream load can be divided into
“Dissolved Load” “Suspended Load” and “Bed Load”.
Dissolved Load is derived from the chemical weathering of rocks such as limestone, which is
easily broken down by water. The chemicals that make up limestone are carried in solution by
the river. Elements such as sodium, magnesium, and calcium are readily soluble in water.
Suspended Load is made up of the finest minute particles that are too buoyant to sink to the
river bottom and are suspended due to the turbulence and flow of the river. This is similar to
the fine dust particles that are carried within the atmosphere by the wind. The Mississippi River
is referred to as the “Big Muddy” because of its large suspended load. The Suspended Load
remains until the river’s velocity decreases dramatically and then it sinks to the bottom as silt.
Bed Load is made up of the larger rocks and loose material that are pushed along the river
bottom by “Saltation” (bouncing) and “Traction” (rolling), as gravity pulls them and the water
down to the lowest elevation (i.e. the River’s Base Level). As the bed load moves along with the
water, the materials are mechanically worn down by friction with the River bottom and other
rocks and particles that are being carried. This explains the smooth and rounded shape of many
stream rocks and boulders.
SUSPENDED LOAD AND BED LOAD. University of Wisconsin Stevens Point;
http://www.uwsp.edu/geo/faculty/ritter/geog101/textbook/fluvial_systems/geologic_work_of_streams.html
FLUVIAL LANDFORMS
The landforms created by the flow of freshwater are either created by “Erosion” or
“Deposition”. Erosion is the removal of material from one place to another after it has been
chemically or mechanically broken down by destructive atmospheric processes. Deposition is
the other side of the process. The material that has been eroded and transported is deposited
at another location. Of course, deposition at a specific location is not permanent. It is often one
of numerous temporary stops along the path back to the lowest elevation, the ocean or inland
basin.
EROSION - CUTTING
As the river moves across the landscape it attempts to follow the most direct route to its final
destination. In doing so, it sculpts the landscape as it back-cuts, down-cuts, and side-cuts. “Back
cutting” involves “Headward” erosion, as the river cuts into the surrounding interfluves in the
upstream direction. The abundant water flow that forms the source of the river erodes the
sides of the adjacent interfluves and transforms them into an extension of the river valley. This
lengthens the river valley and diminishes the size of the interfluves.
“Down-cutting” occurs as the river seeks its base level. The riverbed is eroded downward by
the force of the water, its elevation is reduced, and the valley is deepened. Down-cutting is
most dramatic in the upper levels of the river. As the river approaches sea level, down-cutting
greatly diminishes. One of the most dramatic examples of down-cutting is the Grand Canyon of
Arizona. Over about 17 million years the Colorado River has down-cut more than one mile
creating the spectacular canyon walls.
Also, when down-cutting is the prevalent force, especially in higher elevations, “Knickpoints”
are formed in the riverbed. They form because of the variations in the strength of the bedrock.
Where it is more easily eroded, a knickpoint forms. The knickpoint erosion results in rapid drops
in the elevation of the riverbed and gives rise to beautiful fluvial formations such as rapids and
waterfalls.
KNICKPOINTS AND RAPIDS GRAND CANYON - ARIZONA
“Side-cutting” occurs because of the lateral movement or migration of the river along the
valley floor. The path of the river is extremely dynamic, constantly changing course within its
flood plain. As the stream leaves its headwaters and the higher elevations, its energy is
transferred from down-cutting to side-cutting. As mentioned previously, the water flow of a
river is naturally meandering, in an “S” shaped pattern. As the river’s energy is devoted to side-
cutting, the meanders become more exaggerated. Since the water moves faster and with more
force on the outside of the “S” curve, it is there that much of the erosion takes place creating
an “Undercut Bank”. The sides of the valley are widened and cut into steep banks or bluffs.
Moreover, mass wasting often takes place along the edge of the river, contributing further to
the erosion of the surrounding terrain.
UNDERCUT BANK – RIVER TAY - SCOTLAND Tay District Salmon Fisheries Board; http://www.tdsfb.org/river-tay.htm
MEANDER SCARS AND OXBOW LAKES
“Meander Scars” and “Oxbow Lakes” are the result of both erosion and deposition. As
meandering becomes more extreme, eventually one meander will cut off another, and the river
will change course. The old meander will be abandoned and the river will flow along the new
meander. Water will likely remain for a time in the old meander and form an Oxbow Lake,
similar in shape to the yokes used by oxen in the early period of settlement in the United
States. Over time, deposition will prevail over erosion, and the Oxbow Lake will fill with
sediment and vegetation, leaving only a scar on the land where the meander used to be.
“Natural Levees” occur when a river floods beyond its existing banks and deposits some of its
stream load on the adjacent flood plain. Because of down-cutting, the riverbed is confining and
often lower than the surrounding flood plain. When it floods and the water tops the existing
banks, the water speed diminishes because it is no longer confined to a narrow channel. As a
result of the decreased water velocity, the river deposits its sediment which forms a natural
levee or ridge along the existing channel border. These levees frequently grow in height and
size with each succeeding flood. When the levees break or are breached during a flood there
can be devastating consequences for anyone living within the flood plain. For example, great
destruction resulted in New Orleans during Hurricane Katrina when the Mississippi River levees
were breached.
Both “Alluvial Fans” and “Deltas” form as a result of the process described above. Alluvial fans
are quite conspicuous in arid environments (as we discussed previously) where the streams are
ephemeral and they exit from a mountain canyon onto a flatter plain. As the mountain stream
enters the plain its speed decreases markedly and the material is dropped in order of its size.
With a Delta, the river has reached its base level as it enters a body of water. The force of the
river is dissipated as it joins the lake or ocean and the stream load is deposited in a triangular or
fan shaped pattern. Interestingly, the river forms many small parallel channels in the Delta
called “Distributaries”. These follow a pattern that is the reverse of the Dendritic stream
pattern mentioned earlier, with the Distributaries branching off of the main trunk of the river
rather than merging with the main trunk.
CONCLUSION
Rivers sculpt and shape the land that we live on. Running water is the primary agent of erosion
and deposition. While water may be seen as the sculptor's tool, gravity provides the energy for
operating the tool. The landforms and features that are made by running water range from
magnificent canyons and waterfalls to mundane piles of sand and nondescript gullies. However,
the rocks, soil, water, and chemicals that are components of the fluvial system are all essential
to the cycle of life that makes Earth unique in the Universe.