2018 11 01 - Wanderlust

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TH I S I S S U E
Behind the scenes

this month...
Those were the days
It was a trip to Ecuador in
1992 that sparked the idea
for Wanderlust – the UK’s
first travel magazine
Avast, captain! Lyn Hu

ghes on
the shores of British
Columbia
– and not a spirit bear
in sight
Welcome...
When I stepped onto the plane to Ecuador
26 years ago,, I had little inkling that the flight
was going to change my life, e, or that it would am ‘Des’
Hardly working? Grah
to come up
llead to the birth of a magazine e that would still Berridge slaves away
sh ne w look
with this issue’s fre
be here a quarter of a century later. But that’s the
joy of travel – it has the power to surprise and,
ultimately, change us.
To celebrate 25 years of Wanderlustt, we have
T
scrubbed ourselves up with a fresh, new look. We also cast our minds back
to Wanderlust’s beginnings and a dabble in a bit of crystal ball gazing by
looking at the next 25 years of travel (p95). And as if that wasn’t enough, we
have launched a range of carefully curated Wanderlust Journeys (p148) (
– a series of trips tailored to the most adventurous of travellers. Phoebe Smit
h finds hersel
a boat in Wes f minus
I’d like to thank all of you for reading Wanderlust; it’s it’ amazing to think we a trip that did
tern Australia
on
n’t go as expec
ted
have subscribers from 25 years ago! And I’d like to thank the Wanderlust
team, past and present, for their hard work and dedication. n. I have learned
so much, and we couldn’t have grown and flourished without them.
And talking of growing, this is ou biggest ever issue I hope you find
something inspirational in it for you. And I look forward to us stoking
your travel passions for years to come.
Happy travels,
Lyn Hughes
Guide Awards judges
Lyn ughes and Derek Moore pore
(and argue)
ers
Editor-In-Chief/Co-founder over the eventual winn
wanderlust.co.uk November 2018 1

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2 wanderlust.co.uk November 2018

T H E WA N D E R LU S T T E A M
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TH I S I S S U E
Contributors
Wanderlust is brought to life by people from all over the planet. Here are just some of the
individuals who helped to create this issue – and the travel moments that changed their lives
Pete Oxford
Photographer
Pete is a conservation
photographer and guide
based in Ecuador. His
images of his adopted
homeland bring to life our
Viewfinder (p10) and
Ecuador (p76) features.
Life-changing travel:
“When I first set foot on Sarah Cameron Graham Berridge
the Galápagos Islands, & Ben Box Art director
I immediately felt a deep Guidebook writers Graham – or ‘Des’, as
connection to them. Little Ben’s been the editor of he’s known – has been
did I know that I would Footprint’s iconic South art director at Wanderlust
later live there as a American Handbook for more years than he’d
naturalist guide and go since 1989, and co-wrote care to admit and is the
on to publish four books their Ecuador & brains behind this
about them!” Galapagos guide with his new-look anniversary
wife, Sarah. The two issue. He is only now
writers cover that subject slowly recovering…
again for us on page 76. Life-changing travel:
Life-changing travel: “Observing Stromboli’s
“Even after 35 years of active volcano in full flow,
travel in Latin America, cannoning molten lava
crossing the final ridge on into the air like fireworks
the journey from In the dead of night… all
Cochabamba to Torotoro from the safety of a tiny
took our breath away.” fishing boat.“
Dr Jane Andrew Cattanach Toby Skinner

Wilson-Howarth Writer & editor Travel writer
Travel health expert Andrew paints a picture Toby has lived all over
Writing about rabies on of Cornwall’s art scene the world, but fell in love
page 161, Dr Jane’s been this issue, for our new with the icy Arctic North.
with Wanderlust since British Breaks section This month, he visits
Issue 1. She now lives in (p175). He is a design Tromso (p171), sipping
Nepal, and has written aficionado and travel gin at the world’s
many travel health books, expert always on the northernmost distillery.
including How to Shit lookout for an arty break. Life-changing travel:
Around the World. Life-changing travel: “Two years ago, I went on
Life-changing travel: ”In “Visiting the Galleria a camping/cross-country
Kafiristan, while dressing Borghese in Rome. I was skiing trip to Arctic
wounds, I explained that impressionable, young Norway. At night, the sky
washing limits infection. and very willing to fall in was streaked with the
That simple message love with the work of the northern lights and my
improved health locally, great baroque sculptor eyelashes froze. Yet
and the story helped me Bernini when I made my I knew I’d found my
get into medical school.” first pilgrimage there.“ place in the world.”

Contents Features
58 Canada
How a search for British Columbia’s
elusive spirit bear became a journey
into Canada’s wild green heart
76 Trip planner: Ecuador
& the Galápagos Islands
It’s not all about the finches! Make
the most of Darwin’s wonder but
don’t miss out on the mainland
95 Anniversary special
COVER STORY We mark 25 years of Wanderlust by
looking at how travel has changed
38
PAGE
– and how you’ve changed with it

112 World Guide Awards
The 2018 Wanderlust World Guide
Life-changing travel experiences Awards are here – meet the winners
25 must-try adventures to make you see the
126 The Kimberley
world anew, from finding your feet on the
Australia’s rugged west is a region
dancefloors of BA to taking on a pilgrim trail
known for its five-star cruises, but
Also featuring… to appreciate its rocky glory and
Aboriginal past, the only stars you
Michael Palin, Simon Reeve, need are the ones you sleep under
Nick Baker, Kate Humble
and others…
148
PAGE
Wanderlust Journeys
Introducing our new selection of exclusive
Plus trips to India, the Galápagos and the Silk Road
8 Your letters & photos

Diving with sharks, hanging out with
eagles. What have you been up to?
17 The grapevine
The latest news, buys and dream
trips from the world of travel…
184 The knowledge
58 World Guide Award winner Julie

Gabbott’s tales from the road 76 126
WIN…
A trip to Peru p90
Seven amazing trips p110
Osprey luggage p139
A photo commission to
Hong Kong & Macao p144
This issue
Escape to Morocco p147
mapped
Alaska p55
Amazon p49
Argentina p27
Australia p44, 50, 126
California p45
Cambodia p27
Canada p44, 58
Costa Rica p53
China p53, 168
Cornwall p175
Cuba p42
120
Devon p27
PAGE
Ecuador p14, 28, 76

Egypt p29
Galápagos Islands p80
Guyana p162
7 top Moroccan stays Greece p29
From desert camps to the perfect city riad, Guatemala p45, 168
find the right base to explore this North Hong Kong & Macao p144, 158
African wonder with our Wandersleeps guide India p22, 43, 48
Iran p56
Istanbul p25
Italy p28, 45
Japan p50, 168
Explore Jordan p55
22 Go now: Mumbai
Discover ancient rock temples and
167 nistan,
m
Kenya
Lapland
Luang Prabang
Malawi
p28
p51
p173
p48, 51
flamingos in India’s capital of style
PTSD and cured Mexico p168
himself by walking. Mongolia p42
25 Eat this Morocco p120, 147
For more from Kate Humble, Mumbai p22
Why a humble filled pastry ofers
see our interview on page 34 Namibia p33, 55
a glimpse into the history of one
of the world’s greatest empires Discover Nepal
New Zealand
p56
p17, 30
26 The trip Norfolk Coast p163
Sometimes it’s not where you go,
158 Your travel tips Patagonia p40
Think Hong Kong and Macao are Peru p50
but who you’re with that makes Scotland p40
all business? You tell us otherwise
the diference. Join the finalists South Africa p51, 53
for our Guide Awards on the trip 160 Just back from Svalbard p44
of a lifetime and discover more… Tales from your Uganda travels Tanzania p28
Tasmania p18
30 Head to head: 161 Health Tibet p48
New Zealand Rabies injections may be pricey, Tonga p46
North Island or South Island? Hip but as travellers question their Trinidad p43
cities and the ‘world’s greatest worth, can you really aford not to? Tromso p171
day trek’ versus wild ‘tramping’, UAE p53
162 Ask the experts
34
searching for kiwis and swimming Uganda p17, 160
Walking the Norfolk coast, getting Vietnam p12, 28
with seals. You decide… wild in the jungles of Guyana and West Africa p26
33 Dream sleeps checking our travel privileges – Zanzibar p18
Once known to sailors as the ‘Gates our experts have their say
of Hell’, find out why a new lodge 164 Gear: cabin luggage Tromso p171
is breathing fresh life into Namibia’s Hand luggage-only? We vet eight
harsh yet beautiful Skeleton Coast cases to see which has it in the bag British Columbia p58
166 How to…
33 Breaking down the impossible art Luang Prabang p173

of living out of one small suitcase
167 Travel books
Morocco p120
Strap in for Simon Reeve: the early
years, plus the latest travel releases The Kimberley p126
168 Instant expert

Why the Day of the Dead is the life
and soul of Mexico for travellers

POSTE RESTANTE
Your letters
Your mail and missives: swimming with sharks, a walk among the
tombstones, pondering how magical ‘mystery tours’ really are, and much more...
Not so magical
mystery trip
SOCIAL I recently read your news feature
on ‘mystery tours’ [October 2018,
TALK issue 190], and I haven’t made my
mind up about them. I believe that
Loving a stay on some cruises, passengers can
in the jungle: vote on what their next port of call
“Borneo Rainforest will be. That sounds like fun. But
Lodge was amazing. by air? How do you know what
I would return in clothes or visas you need?
a heartbeat!” I’m put of by an experience I had
Beki Smith in the 1950s. I grew up in Bowness-
on-Windermere, and, one year, we
Star letter Looking over went on holiday to Blackpool. In
Great white hope some old travel those days, you could walk along
I just returned from a five-day trip to Mexico’s snaps: “Reviewing the promenade and see the ofices
Guadeloupe Island to see great white sharks. I saw photos and of coach operators ofering day
over ten sharks repeatedly across two days, the rekindling my trips all around the area. Some
largest more than 4m in length. I thought it fitting memories of last ofered ‘mystery tours’.
to take Wanderlust into the cage with me. Sadly, month’s Arctic trip So, we went on one of these. We
I had to fold it in half to fit into a bag (pictured right) to Svalbard and set of happily, but when the coach
– I couldn’t bear ruining a perfectly good magazine! Greenland.” turned of the A6 at Heversham,
Scott Bennett, via email @papaoscar55 slight doubts began to set in.
These doubts increased as we
Choosing drove along, until the coach pulled
Grave encounter I discovered that he was a local between the into a car park at our destination...
In 2012, my friend Alison and I were boy who’d emigrated to Australia poles: “I’d pick Bowness-on-Windermere!
at the end of a three-week tour of in 1912. I spent months tracing his Antarctica because Keith Kellett, via email
Turkey and were visiting an Allied past and sent for his war records I listened to Ralph
Win
cemetery in Gallipoli. I was walking after he signed up for the 8th Vaughan Williams’
between the graves when Alison Australian Light Horse Regiment. ‘Sinfonia antartica’
suddenly said: “There’s someone He settled in Mildura, Victoria, and and it conjured up
from Minehead,” which is my I was given details on him from such vivid images BUFF HEADWEAR
hometown. On the gravestone a geneologist living there. in my mind.” Each month, the recipient of
were written the words, ‘with A year later, I had five days to John Devereux our ‘Star letter’ award will win
ever-loving thoughts from spare while in Australia and stayed a versatile 100% Merino Wool
your mother at Minehead’. in Mildura. The locals had more Earmarking Buf® – the ultimate travel
stories, and I spoke to a lady whose the next trip: accessory (£26.75 RRP) –
maiden aunt was secretly engaged “Thailand is one of so be sure to drop us a line…
to him. I’ve even won two tickets the places I’d most
to join the ‘Peoples' Procession’ love to visit over the
past the Cenotaph on 11 Nov. You next few years.”
never know what wonders can be @NatashaBalletta
discovered while on your travels.
Brenda Boulton, via email
Alamy
[email protected] @wanderlustmag wanderlusttravelmagazine @wanderlustmag

YOUR PHOTOS
#wanderlustmag
Been somewhere beautiful? Done something amazing? Tag us at #wanderlustmag on
Instagram or email your pictures to [email protected] and make us jealous.
“Scuba diving in Sharm El Sheikh, Egypt, “Climbing the stripey slopes of Peru’s “Soaking up the last rays of the sinking
with a moray eel for company.” Andy Wyles rather appropriately named Rainbow Saharan sun in Morocco’s Erg Chigaga
Mountain.” @livemoretravelmore dunes!” @adventurej_ca
“Holding a golden eagle in Kyrchyn “One man and a penguin – a special “Standing with Jason Evans (centre)
Gorge, Kyrgyzstan, at this year’s World moment in Antarctica!” Hazel Wright and Keira Davies (right) on the trails above
Nomad Games.” @worldexplorer_ellie Machu Picchu, Peru.” @lbimagemaker
“Gazing out over Lagoa do Fogo “My children, Isaac and Ruby, standing “Wandering Sossusvlei National
on São Miguel Island in the Azores with in Llanddwyn Bay, Wales, with Snowdonia Park with my copy of Wanderlust, which
my son, Fin.” @how_i_wander.uk in the background.” Debra Ridge features Namibia inside!” Lydia Barron

Torres del Paine
National Park, Chile
The spiky granite peaks
of the Cuernos del Paine
(known as ‘the horns’)
are an iconic sight for
those travelling through
Torres del Paine NP. After
all, how could you drive
down that road and not
Alamy
be changed by it?
VIEWFINDER
“Two roads diverged in a wood and I –

I took the one less travelled by, and
that has made all the diference”
from ‘The Road Not Taken’ by Robert Frost
VI E W FI N D E R
CHANGING FACES
Various tribes, Vietnam
Photographer Réhahn
Visitors exploring Vietnam will soon encounter the

huge variety of cultures, cuisines and coutures of
the country’s tribal groups – there are 54 oficially
recognised by the government. Since he moved to
Vietnam seven years ago, French photographer
Réhahn has been on a mission to document them;
he’s up to number 49. “I’m waiting for permission
because some tribes are in sensitive areas,” he says.
“It can take up to three years to get permission.” The
challenge is already reaping rewards: proceeds
from the sale of Réhahn's prints and books support
a range of social enterprises in Vietnam, including
a museum about the Co Tu ethnic group.
For more information about Réhahn’s exhibitions
and books, go to rehahnphotographer.com
VI E W FI N D E R
TOP OF THE WORLD

Cotopaxi, Ecuador
Photographer Pete Oxford
It’s hardly an original observation to say that life finds
a way, but it’s no less valid for the repetition.
The alpacas here, gathered in the shadow of Cotopaxi
(5,897m), the highest active volcano in the world, live
in a tough environment. It’s no wonder that, 25 years
ago, the wild wonders of Ecuador were the inspiration
for Wanderlust’s founders to create the UK’s first
travel magazine. And it’s still inspiring us today…
Turn to page 76 to see our ‘Ecuador & Galápagos
Trip Planner’; visit https://peteoxford.com for
more of Pete’s Ecuador photography
The
wers
What’s getting us talk g
WE NEVER KNEW...
The fortune-bringing waving cat
MORE (maneki-neko) – ubiquitous in
GORILLAS
Chinese restaurants across the
world – is said to have originated
IN OUR MIDST in the 1400s at Tokyo’s Gotokuji

Temple in Japan. One day, a
resident monk asked his beloved
It’s one of the world’s greatest wildlife experiences, but permits cat for good fortune. Later, the
for gorilla trekking in Uganda have always been in short supply cat is said to have waved in
– until now. Two new groups of mountain gorillas have been a group of samurai caught in
habituated in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, increasing the number a rainstorm, one of whom turned
out to be a feudal lord who
of families that can be observed in the wild to 17. Now, an extra
donated land to the temple.
3,000 permits can be granted per year – and the Uganda Wildlife Today, the temple is festooned
Authority says that the price ($600/£459) will remain unchanged. with hundreds of white cats.
DATES Nov 23 Chiang Mai, in northern Thailand, hosts the evocative Loy Krathong lantern festival in November
FOR THE Nov 29 Join explorer Benedict Allen in London, to celebrate all things Papua New Guinea. wanderlust.co.uk/events
DIARY December The Galápagos Islands’ giant tortoises begin to hatch. See them at Volcano Alcedo on Isabela Island
NZ’S COASTAL PACIFIC

TRAIN: BACK ON TRACK
Traversing the rugged-yet-ravishing coastline
between Picton and Christchurch, the Coastal
Pacific railway was a New Zealand must-do until
the devastating Kaikoura ’quake forced the line to
KiwiRail; Tim Henshall; Dreamstime
close in 2016. It reopened last year for freight

trafic, but its passenger service will
recommence on 1 December, putting wild
beaches, rolling vineyards and snow-capped
peaks within easy reach again. kiwirail.co.nz

THE GRAPEVINE
neck airp
airpod
pillow
llow
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THE ‘SWISS
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ARMY KNIFE’ microfiber cloth earplugs
JACKET stylus footrest
Streamline your travels with the Baubax 2.0

jacket, whose nifty design puts all the blanket
bottle
essentials within easy reach, including a built-
in eye mask, neck pillow, gloves, blanket and
secret pocket for valuables. There’s even an
gloves charger pocket
inflatable foot rest (yes, really), not to mention

a microfibre cloth for cleaning your gadgets.
Available in men’s and women’s designs. apple pencil whist
his le bottle opener handwarming
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US$225 (£169); baubax.com pocket pockets
ZANZIBAR:
FIT FOR QUEEN
With Queen biopic Bohemian Rhapsody out in
cinemas from 24 October, the spotlight is set to
turn on Freddie Mercury’s birthplace of Zanzibar.
These Tanzanian islands are on the up, with a host
of ritzy new hotel openings – but worry not, the
archipelago’s newfound fame hasn’t gone to its Cape crusaders
head. It’s still all about spotting dolphins of the Tasmania is celebrating the
coast, wandering the maze that is Stone Town and oficial opening of a new
sampling spicy Zanzibari food, with its Indian, Arab, four-day walking trail, in the
Chinese, Portuguese and African influences. far-flung hikers’ paradise of
Australia’s Tasman National
Park. The Three Capes Lodge
Walk promises 46km of sea
clifs, sprawling forests and
world-class birdwatching, with
accommodation in luxurious-
Getty; Baubax; Dreamstime; Tourism Australia; Shutterstiocl
n initiation ceremony yet-sustainable lodges along

the way. The trail, which can be
s strong as a crocodile’ booked through the Tasmanian
Walking Company, traverses
ight have to wrestle some some seriously wild terrain –
as far tougher than that... but each day ends with hearty
home-cooked food and a glass
s tales of Papua New Guinea from the or two of Tassie wine. Perfect.
r exclusive London event on 29 Nov taswalkingco.com.au

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
There’s a moose loose…

Spending time with the denizens of the
Yukon Territory’s Wind River; (bottom)
Dakka Kwan First Nations dancers
Explore wild Canada with
GRAND AMERICAN
ADVENTURES
From huge peaks to eagle encounters, Canada is the perfect escape for adventures big and small…
BIG EXPERIENCE
E
pic wildernesses. residents of Klukwan’s Tlingit isolated Tombstone Territorial
Unique wildlife Few tours offer a better grasp of Indian Village and gatecrashing Park reveal a hiker’s mecca: a
encounters. Huge both the macro and micro glories the world’s largest convocation little-seen maze of lakes, peaks,
sights. For those of Canada than Grand American of bald eagles at the Alaska grizzlies, caribou and epic views
seeking a massive Adventures’ 14-day Yukon and Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. – everything you’d want from
adventure, Canada has it all, and Alaska Walk. The first point of There’s more wild encounters North America’s wild north-east.
mostly served up in XXL portions. call is over the Alaskan border, to be had on the other side of
But spending time here reveals where you can enjoy the gold the border. Grizzly bears can be GRAND ADVENTURE
another side to life in America’s rush heritage of Skagway before spotted – from a safe distance – With the widest selection of
far north-east: close-ups of its heading into the forests and on the rugged trails that line expert-led small group tours in
indigenous cultures, gold-rush rocky summits of the Chilkat Kluane National Park. These the US, Canada, Central and
history and wealth of birdlife. Peninsula. Highpoints (literal and hikes will take you past 5,959m- South America, you’re spoiled
To ensure visitors get the best otherwise) include a pair of peaks high Mount Logan and the jewels for choice with Grand American
of Canada, Grand American ( Riley and Ripinski), time with the of the Saint Elias range, as well Adventures. There’s over 70
Adventures’ small group tours as the world’s largest non-polar itineraries to pick from, whether
are expertly designed to reveal ice field – Kaskawulsh Glacier. you’re a solo traveller, couple or
both the big and the small The high adrenaline experiences family, and their local guides
picture. With an itinerary to suit aren’t just limited to the wildlife, take the stress out of your travels
just about every taste – from though; nearby Tatshenshini- and bring with them unrivalled
broad country overviews to Alsek Wilderness Park offers expertise and knowledge – the
specialist activities – their wide thrilling river rafting as well as perfect way to realise your big
Peter Mather; Government of Yukon
range of Canada trips take some fine wild hiking. Canadian adventure.
travellers on guided trails, visits Dawson City, meanwhile, has
to traditional villages and, of more gold rush history and big
course, to the iconography that views courtesy of its Midnight
makes a visit here unforgettable. Dome. The tour’s final days in
For more information, visit www.grandamericanadventures.com/yukon wanderlust.co.uk November 2018 19

Kate Humble on how
travelling on foot can
help
you take the world
Explo e
in your stride p34
Food | Culture | Adventure

Going beyond Bollywood in Mumbai p22 | The Ottoman empire bites back p25
Travel with a top guide p26 | Solving New Zealand’s north-south divide p30
DREAM SLEEPS
How the Skeleton

Coast was tamed
Journey to the amazing
new Shipwreck Lodge
on Namibia’s wildest
stretch of coastline p33
»
Michael Turek

EXPLORE
Go
Now
...and embrace the chaos!
Royal rumblings
The Gateway of India
was built to mark a 1911
visit from King George V
but became a post-Raj
symbol of independence
THE DESTINATION:
MUMBAI
With new flights from Manchester, there’s never been a better time to head
for the crazy, indefinable but endlessly rewarding Indian megacity
F
or writers ranging Part of the attraction may be buildings – or explore the stone the Kanheri cave network, once
from Salman Rushdie that there are 21.3 million souls, colonial buildings of creative a Buddhist settlement. Meanwhile,
to Vikram Chandra and potential stories, squeezed quarter Kala Ghoda, which turns thousands of flamingos tinge the
and Kiran Nagarkar, into this humid megacity. It spans into a giant rambling art market coastal wetlands a rosy pink in the
Mumbai has always the gamut of humanity, from the during its eponymous festival every winter months, with mangrove
exerted a strong pull. In Midnight’s poverty of Dharavi (where the film February. You might book a table at boat trips bringing them up close.
Children, Rushdie came up with Slumdog Millionaire was shot and Parel’s buzzy Bombay Canteen, Few visitors even realise Mumbai
a new word, ‘rutputty’, to describe tours now roam) to the Bollywood which specialises in recreating old was once an archipelago until land
the chaotic nature of his birthplace stars, cricketers and politicians in Mumbai street food, or eat dosa reclamation linked it all up. But
and favourite city. In cult Mumbai the seaside haunt of Bandra. pancakes or chaat in one of the there are still islands here, and if
novel Shantaram, the Australian The city reflects the human city’s khau gallis, or snack alleys. you take a boat to Elephanta (aka
criminal at the heart of Gregory mishmash of religion, culture and There are surprises everywhere Gharapuri), you can explore its
David Roberts’ hit describes “the wealth so easily encountered here here, not least in the lush Sanjay remarkable 5th-century rock-cut
Alamy; Dreamstime
different air... the smell of gods, by travellers. You might wander the Gandhi National Park, a vast temples. A reminder why even the
demons, empires and civilisations beachfront Marine Drive – like subtropical reserve inside the city best writers have to create words
in resurrection and decay.” a mini Miami dotted with art deco limits that is home to wildlife and to define a city with so many faces.

MUMBAI EXPLORE
THE NUMBERS
109
cavesmakeupthe
ancientBuddhist
THE SURPRISING VISITORS complexofKanheri,
whichoncefunctioned
The Mumbai flamingos asakindof‘university
Every winter, a flamboyance of flamingos (yes, that is the campus’formonks.
collective noun) migrate to the mudflats and wetlands of
Mumbai. An estimated 35,000 flocked here last year,
arriving later than usual (Feb), with boat trips out into the
Jet Airways already

mangroves of Thane Creek the best way to see them.
50,000
flies direct to Mumbai Mumbaivendorsare
from London Heathrow, estimatedtoserveup
and as of 5 November, must-trysnackvadapav
they will also be flying
from Manchester, too. (aka‘Bombayburger’),
Jetairways.com; return apotatofritterinaroll
flights from £400 servedwithspicyand
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agreenpepper.
Take a tour
Reality Tours & Travel’s
street food tours start
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35 years
local classics such isthelengthoftimethat
as panipuri (fried
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IF YOU ONLY DO THREE THINGS
Get outdoors and explore…
PAY HOMAGE TO SEE THE GATEWAY HEAD FOR THE

A TRUE RAIL ICON OF INDIA BY BOAT CITY’S LUNG
The lucky ones arrive in Mumbai The best view of the famous Sanjay Gandhi National Park is
by train (the Mandovi Express from Gateway of India monument is a vast smudge of green in urban
Goa is an iconic journey), but even from the water. Half-hour boat Mumbai where you can spy chital
if you don’t, the Chhatrapati Shivaji rides cost INR70 (76p), and from deer, rhesus macaques and, if
Terminus – all gargoyles and neo- the Gulf you can see the grandly you’re lucky, hyenas, four-horned
gothic spires – is well worth seeing. domed Taj Mahal Palace hotel, too. antelope and even leopards.
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IRAN | JAPAN | LAPLAND | LEBANON | MOLDOVA | NAGORNO KARABAKH
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WORLD FOOD EXPLORE
Turkish delights
The humble borek hails from
across the Black Sea region,
but found a home in Istanbul
F
EAT THIS... or most, the legacy of the A classic Black Sea borek (see online
Ottoman Turks (1299– for Caroline’s recipe) might contain any
1922) is the influence they of meat, cheese, sultanas, pine nuts or
WhyTurkey’s had on countless cultures
– as often happens when
spinach, all wrapped in filo-like yufka
pastry. “It’s baked as a large pie, rather
streetsnack your borders extend most of south-

eastern Europe, the Middle East and
North Africa. Yet one all-conquering
than as small pastries,” Caroline adds.
But due to its origins, it’s no surprise
dozens of varieties exist in Istanbul.
isatasteof snack turns that idea on its head.
The borek, a simple filled pastry,
Sariyer borek, named after the busy
Istanbul neighbourhood, is filled with
theoldworld emerged from the empire’s outposts in

Central Asia. It was brought to Turkey
by migrants, where it soon found its
minced meat and cheese, while water
borek, a variety stuffed with feta and Black Sea (Quadrille, £25)
by Caroline Eden is out
parsley, can be found across the city.
Istanbul’s beloved borek way to capital, Constantinople (now There’s even a sweet version, Laz
on 1 November
was forged in conquest Istanbul). Today, street stalls and boregi (or borek), that hails from the
homes across the city hiss with region of Rize: “Imagine a slice of
and migration, yet there’s steaming trays of borek – a link to baklava with paper-thin filo, but the
no better symbol for this the communities that moved here size of a deck of cards and crammed
from across the Black Sea region, not with custard,” tempts Caroline.
bustling melting pot… to mention a tasty snack for locals You had us at ‘imagine’. Certainly,
and visitors alike. we can think of no better way to dive
Caroline Eden, author of new travel into Istanbul’s Ottoman history, or
cookbook Black Sea, sees a city whose indeed fuel a visit there, than by biting
cuisine is built on its past. “Istanbul into a borek. It’s the taste of empires.
is full of people from the Black Sea:
cooks, fisherman, hammam owners,
bakers, taxi drivers… it is arguably the Get the full borek recipe online
Ola O Smit
world’s greatest kitchen,” she explains. Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/191

Travel with a
TOP GUIDE
We announce the winners of our 2018 World Guide Awards
on page 112 – here’s how you can travel with them…
GOLD AWARD WINNER

CUT AN EPIC OVERLANDING SLICE THROUGH WEST AFRICA
Join Gold Award-winning guide Julie Gabbott as she navigates and drives travellers across
West Africa on Dragoman’s Dakar and Accra via Togo and Benin tour. Try and spot the
elusive pygmy hippo on Tiwai Island in Sierra Leone, spy lions and elephants in Benin’s
Pendjari NP, visit the Great Mosque of Touba in Senegal and tread Butterfly Mountain in
Togo. And that’s just barely scratching the surface on this 70-day epic, which can also
be broken up into three shorter trips for who prefer short- to long-haul…
Who: Dragoman (01728 861133; dragoman.com) When: 12 Nov 2018; 28 Jan 2019 (reverse
journey) How long: 70 days How much: From £4,285 (excl flights; plus €1,840/£1,660 kitty)
THE TRIP EXPLORE
SILVER AWARD WINNER

SEE A SPECTACULAR WILDERNESS IN ARGENTINA
Soak up the South American outdoors in Patagonia with

Silver Award-winner Neil Rabjohn on G Adventures’ End
of the Earth tour. Marvel at Andean peaks en route to Los
Glaciares NP, spying twisting rock formations emerging from
ice fields and fine views of Fitz Roy Mountain. Float up close to
the toothpaste-blue Perito Moreno glacier and trek grasslands
and snowy peaks in Torres del Paine NP. Climax in Ushuaia,
overlooking the waters that separate you and Antarctica.
Who: G Adventures (0344 272 2060; gadventures.com)
When: From Mar 2019
How long: 14 days
How much: From £2,430 (excl flights)
TOP UK GUIDE
GO DETECTIVE IN DOYLE’S DEVON, ENGLAND
Follow in the footsteps of Sherlock Holmes with guide

Alex Graeme on Unique Devon Tours’ The Hound of the
Baskervilles Tour. Trace the origins of Arthur Conan Doyle’s
book, including the eerie Holy Trinity Church, the resting
place of Richard Cabell III – the inspiration for its antagonist.
Then swap gentle Devon lanes for Dartmoor and the Bronze
Age settlement of Grimspound, before finishing as the story
does, deep in the mysterious, treacherous bog (Fox Tor Mire).
Who: Unique Devon Tours (01803 812556; uniquedevontours.com)
When: Year round
How long: 1 day
How much: From £360 for up to two people (excl flights)
HIGHLY COMMENDED
MEANDER THE MEKONG IN
CAMBODIA AND VIETNAM
Float one of the world’s great waterways with guide Phauk

Kimhoun on G Adventures’ Mekong River Adventure – Ho Chi
Minh City to Phnom Penh trip. Float past pagodas, paddy fields
and old colonial houses as you drift this watery slice of South-
East Asia. See Cai Be’s floating market, glimpse Vinh Trang and
Kien An Cung pagodas and see the sun set from Sam Mountain,
then head for Cambodia and its storied capital, Phnom Penh.
When: 2019 dates still to be announced.
How long: 5 days
How much: From £879 (excl flights) ⊲

EXPLORE THE TRIP
⊳ HIGHLY COMMENDED
THE TUSCAN PEAKS IN ITALY
Follow guide Sara Bull’s lead on Exodus’ Walking

n Tuscany trip. Take on a number of trails, treading
craggy peaks and slope-clinging villages, spying
and eagles as you summit Pania della Croce (1,858m).
Take a break to visit fortified Lucca and the pastel-coloured
buildings of the Cinque Terre, before rejoining the trail among
the wildflowers and lofty forests of Appennino Tosco-Emiliano
NP, topping Tuscany’s highest peak, Mount Prado (2,054m).
Who: Exodus (020 3811 4352; exodus.co.uk)
When: Selected dates Apr–Oct 2019
How long: 8 days
How much: From £1,119 (incl flights)
TOP SAFARI GUIDE

SPY WONDERFUL WILDLIFE IN
TANZANIA AND KENYA
Join guide Garth Hovell on Abercrombie & Kent’s Great

Migration Safari Escorted Tour and see East Africa’s rich wildlife.
Stays in camps and lodges will put you nose to snout with the
lions, leopards and elephants of Kenya’s Amboseli NP and the
acacia-shaded zebra and bufalo of Tanzania’s Tarangire NP.
Visit the lush Ngorogoro Crater, then climax with a glimpse of
wildlife’s supreme spectacle – spying the Great Migration in the
savannahs of Serengeti NP and at Masai Mara Game Reserve.
Who: Abercrombie & Kent (01242 547892; abercrombiekent.co.uk)
When: Jan–Apr & Jul–Oct
How long: 13 nights
TOP CONSERVATION GUIDE

BE WOWED BY DARWIN’S
ARCHIPELAGO IN ECUADOR
Soak up the wildlife on Galakiwi’s Galápagos Adventure Tour

with guide Pablo Valladares, island hopping the archipelago
to spy sea lions and blue-footed boobies on San Cristóbal and
basking marine iguanas on Floreana, then visiting the Giant
Tortoise Breeding Centre on Isabela. Scale Sierra Negra and
tread the lava fields of Volcan Chico, then finish by swapping
Stevie Mann; David Hunt; Emily Slade Photography
boots for a snorkel to glide among Galápagos penguins.

Who: Galakiwi (+593 5252 1770; galakiwi.com)
When: 16 Nov & 14 Dec 2018
How long: 10 days
How much: From US$4,999 (£3,860; excl flights)

HIGHLY COMMENDED
VISIT THE CRADLE OF
CIVILISATION IN GREECE
Let guide Gabo Candal bring the past and present into focus

on G Adventures’ Best of Greece tour. Spy Athens’ iconic
Acropolis, then embark on a greatest hits tour of ancient
Greece: the mountaintop monasteries of Meteora, the Temple
of Apollo, the cobbles of Nafplio. Finish by hopping to Crete to
spy Chania’s Old Town and hike the rugged Samariá Gorge NP,
before boating to the blue-domed buildings of Santorini. Bliss.
When: 5 May 2019
How long: 15 days
How much: From £1,949 (excl flights)
HIGHLY COMMENDED
SEE SANDY ICONS GALORE
IN JORDAN IN EGYPT
Allow guide Ashraf Masoud to uncloak a pair of dynasties

on Abercrombie & Kent’s Petra, Pyramids and Nile Cruise
Escorted Tour. Explore Jordan’s antiquities, from the ‘City of
Mosaics’, Madaba, to the rose-red wonder of Petra, before
crossing into Egypt, where a cruise down the Nile, passing the
Luxor Temple and the Valley of the Kings, gives way to Aswan’s
temples of Abu Simbel and the pyramids on Cairo’s fringes.
Who: Abercrombie & Kent (01242 386468; abercrombiekent.co.uk)
When: Year round
How long: 13 nights
mytripfinder.co.uk
Know when you want to travel but don’t know where?
Got an activity you long to try but not sure how? Try visiting
Wanderlust’s Trip Finder at www.mytripfinder.co.uk
EXPLORE HEAD TO HEAD
Head to Head
NEW ZEALAND
North Island VERSUS South island
AT A NORTH ISLAND SOUTH ISLAND
GLANCE The North Island edges it when it comes to Cultural gems exist in the South Island, too,
CULTURE
festivals, such as Napier’s evocative Art but largely stem from its mining past. The
North Island Deco Festival in February, or the riotous west coast is rich in ‘gold rush’ ghost towns
Population Pasifika Polynesian festival in Auckland such as Waiuta, while plenty more dot the
3.67 million in March. There are more places to grab Old Ghost Road cycling route at Lyell. Then
Size a sense of Maori culture, too, especially there’s Paparoa National Park’s new ‘Great
113,729 sq km around the ‘Sulphur City’ of Rotorua, where Walk’ (left), which opens in 2019 and loops
Key cities a third of the population are Maori. lush forest and the site of the Pike River Mine.
Wellington (capital)
& Auckland
OUTDOORS
Iconic beauty spot The North Island has some epic short walks, But the South Island is one of the world’s
Bay of Islands such as the Tongariro Alpine Crossing day great adventure spots, from adrenaline-
Expect trek, across a volcanic range lit with bright soaked Queenstown to ‘tramping’ (hiking)
Volcanoes, wild jade pools, or the overnight Cape Brett the legendary Milford Track – 54km of
beaches, Maori coastal walkway, ending at the lighthouse fjords and peaks along Milford Sound.
culture and world- (right) of the same name. There’s top Whether climbing the Fox Glacier or taking
class restaurants beaches, too, such as Piha, a west-coast on the five-day Otago Central Rail Trail
in Auckland escape resembling a Hawaiian fantasy. cycle, you won’t be short of a wild escape.
South Island
Population You don’t have to leave Auckland’s waters The South Island is known for its wildlife,
NATURE
1.11 million to see whales and dolphins – the Hauraki from swimming with fur seals and dolphins
Size Gulf is visited by over a third of all known in Kaikoura, to spotting sea lions and rare
151,215 sq km marine mammals, including blue whales. yellow-eyed penguins in the bays of the
Key cities To the south, the gloworm caves of Waitomo Otago Peninsula. Then there’s the kiwi birds
Dunedin & are remarkable, while the west-coast town (left), with trips to Stewart Island, of the
Christchurch of Port Waikato is a great spot to see rare south coast, and visits to the nearby Ulva
Iconic beauty spot Maui dolphins, the smallest of their kind. Island Bird Sanctuary a must for sightings.
Milford Sound
Expect
Glaciers, epic Of the eight Kiwi restaurants on La Liste’s Lyttleton’s acclaimed Roots eatery sums up
EATING
treks, wineries and 2017 rundown of the world’s 1,000 best the South Island’s focus on fresh food, and
world-beating eateries, seven were in Auckland, including while good wine exists across New Zealand,
wildlife Sid Sahrawat’s boundary-pushing Sidart. Marlborough sauvignon blancs and Otago
But it’s not all about the north’s fine-dining pinot noirs and are arguably the most iconic.
DID YOU mecca – the hipster bars and night market For local treats, don’t leave Stewart Island
KNOW? food stalls on capital Wellington’s Cuba
Street make just as strong an impression.
without tasting muttonbird, or Hokitika
without some whitebait passing your lips.
Baldwin St, in the

VERDICT
South Island city of If you want a mix of built-up towns, culture, food, beaches and volcanic
Dunedin, is said to
landscapes, the North Island might be the one for you. If you want a pure hit of
be the world’s
steepest street, at nature and the outdoors, with good local food along the way, go to the South
a thigh-burning 38 Island. But both are incredible, plus it’s only a three-hour ferry ride between
them. And guess what? The scenery from the Cook Strait ferry is amazing, too.
Alamy
percent gradient.

NORTH ISLAND
The north-south divide

(clockwise from top left)
Hike the emerald crater lakes
of the Tongaririo Alpine
Crossing for iconic views;
the North Island is better
known for its Maori culture;
Milford Sound has become
an iconic wilderness to roam;
the Otago Peninsula is
a great spot to see rare
yellow-eyed penguins
SOUTH ISLAND

Contact us today via email or social media

[email protected] facebook.com/endeavournzis @Endeavournzis
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ACCOMMODATION EXPLORE
DREAM SLEEPS
Shipwreck
Lodge, Namibia
It may be set in an area once dubbed
‘The Gates of Hell’, but that’s all part
of the appeal at the lodge breathing
new life into the Skeleton Coast…
Get there
British Airways
(ba.com) fly from
London Heathrow
to Windhoek via
Johannesburg from
£665 return. Charter
Them bones
flight companies
The lodge was built to
blend in with the wrecks such as Scenic Air
lining the Skeleton Coast (scenic-air.com) fly
from Windhoek to
the airstrip at Möwe
Bay, where transfers
E
ven by Namibia’s arid whose wrecks still remain. a viewing deck, from which visitors
to the lodge can be
standards, the Skeleton Abandoned diamond mines, can gaze out over the sand dunes,
arranged. Self-drive
Coast isn’t what you’d bomber planes and rusting steam and there are plans to add a pool.
travellers are also
call hospitable. Over trains, not to mention the whale As inhospitable as the coast might able to transfer from
the years, Namibian bones poking out of the sand, only seem, it is home to an unlikely array a site at Möwe Bay.
bushmen and Portuguese sailors add to the post-apocalyptic vibe. of wildlife: from the vast seal colony
have approached this stretch of But, as of June this year, the at Möwe Bay to giraffes, black rhinos
Namibia’s north-western coast with Skeleton Coast has a new adventure and lions, as well as desert elephants
a mixture of awe and dread: the lodge that somehow fits in with the only be found in Namibia and Mali.
bushmen called it ‘The Land God dramatic tone of the area. Shipwreck Naturally, the lodge offers trips to Take a tour
Made in Anger’, while Portuguese Lodge’s eight solar-powered see all this and more, with visits to Steppes Travel
(steppestravel.com )
sailors dubbed it ‘The Gates of Hell’. wooden cabins, set in the dunes shipwrecks, the old Westies diamond
run 14-day self-drive
With the infamous Benguela overlooking the crashing Atlantic, mine and the Clay Castles where wild
Namibia tours, which
current bringing in fierce swells and have asymmetrical shapes inspired predators roam the formations. It all start at £2,495pp
dense sea fogs, this area close to the by the coast’s shipwrecked remains, makes for a fascinating way to soak (excluding flights)
Angolan border is known for the and its muted colours mean it up an area too often skimmed over. and can be tailored
Micheal Turek
scores of ships that have run blends in seamlessly. The central shipwrecklodge.com.na; rooms to include a stay at
aground here over the years, and restaurant and lounge even has cost from NAD10,200pp (£551) Shipwreck Lodge.

‘Through
walking,
something
that seems
enormous
suddenly feels
manageable’
INTERVIEW EXPLORE
Talking walking with ...
KATE
HUMBLE
The TV presenter and nature lover reveals the story behind her new book on walking,
and how travelling on foot helps her feel more connected with people and places…
Where did the idea for the walking, and I met a therapist in Does walking foster unique
book come from? New York who walks his patients travel experiences?
I live in an area of the UK where around Central Park. In a funny One day after filming, I decided
if you don’t walk, you are wasting way it is a book about travelling. I would walk back to the hotel.
a landscape that deserves to I set of and, within a few
be seen at that pace. I also have Do you get a sense of minutes, Samson, one of the
three demanding dogs, so immersion when you walk? local security guys, came and
I have to start my day on foot. I had a moment when I walked caught me up. He usually worked
I soon realised I was walking 219km of the Wye Valley with for the President of Kenya and
with an uncrowded mind: my dog. I’d taken everything was not used to walking. Anyway,
not wearing headphones, in a rucksack and had stayed in we walked for two hours. He was
not looking at the phone, just a couple of B&Bs, as it turns out in his sandals and I was in my
allowing myself to be a part of you can’t carry nine days’ worth flip-flops, so we were not well
the landscape. The other thing of dog food and a sleeping bag. equipped! And we talked about
I discovered is that these Then a friend of mine came and Every morning I’d walk around diferent things. Walking is an
morning walks do good things did a day with me, but picked this village – it was not a place unconfrontational way to have
for the creative part of the brain the time when I had the most where tourists go, so there were a conversation. It was about his
and your attention span. Through excruciating blisters on my feet. no other white people, certainly family, his children and his job
walking, something that seems It was only a short walk – yet still not scrufy blondes wandering and stuf. I also had lots of other
enormous and insurmountable 21km. It was absolute agony, but about at 6am. We were there for lovely insights into life in that
suddenly feels manageable. as we walked down to the river three weeks and I walked every rural part of Kenya – you know,
It might take several walks to I heard this ‘beep’ and said, day. People started recognising going past somebody’s hut and
dissipate an anxiety, but it works. ‘That’s a kingfisher’. She told me. The woman on the corner they've got their cooking pot and
I mulled this over for a couple me that she’d never seen selling goat milk would say hello, the kids are running around, or
of years, then I thought, ‘I want a kingfisher before, so we stood as would the guy selling mandazi they are tying up their goats. It’s
to turn this into a book’. It isn’t still, looked at the branches (an East African doughnut), and those moments that make you
a self-help book but it is about along the river and watched it. the boda-boda boys on their feel like you are part of their day.
wellbeing, so I sought out other She was so delighted, and in that motorbikes would ofer me lifts. You are part of a landscape.
people who walk for diferent little moment I overcame the It made me feel I wasn’t just
reasons. I met an artist who pain of walking with blisters. visiting, but like I was investing
walks for inspiration, and a bit of myself in the community Thinking on My Feet
(Aster, 2018; £20)
a young woman who got ovarian What happens when you by hanging out and doing by Kate Humble is
cancer at 30 and said walking walk on your travels? nothing in particular. available to buy now
gave her back her identity. Walking is a nice way to pick up
I met a man who served in the vibes of a place. I open the
Clare Richardson
Afghanistan who was sufering book with a story about being in Read the full interview online
from PTSD and cured himself by a remote border town in Kenya. Go to www.wanderlust.co.uk/191

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Life-changing
TRAVEL
EXPERIENCES
From saving a species to expanding your skills (and your mind),
there’s always a good reason to get away – and if you can’t think
of one, read on as we round up the trips that may change your life
WORDS SARAH BAXTER
1 TRAVEL
ALONE
SET OFF ON A SOLO ADVENTURE
No compromises, no limitations, no
back-up. Travelling by yourself can
be daunting but empowering; there is no
greater freedom. You’ll have to rely on
your own wits, but you can do whatever
you want – and you might discover more
about yourself along the way.
Where? Newbie solos can play it safe in
regions well set up for travellers: English-
speaking Australia (pictured) and New
Zealand; laid-back South-East Asia; South
America’s ‘gringo trail’. Frenetic India or
lesser-trodden West Africa or Central Asia
provide bigger challenges.
Take our advice: Stay open to other
people – put that book down, choose a
seat at the bar, strike up conversations.
Who knows what might happen? But
remember to have fun. ⊲
3
TAKE A
SELF-PROPELLED
JOURNEY
FEEL THE FREEDOM OF TRAVELLING
UNDER YOUR OWN STEAM
You experience a place diferently when

you travel more slowly. Travelling on
foot, by bike or in a kayak, you see more, soak
up more; you can access out-of-the-way
places, meet more local people. There’s also
a sense of freedom in being in charge of your
pace, detours and destination. It’s more the
kind of travel associated with early explorers,
with a sense of discovery to match.
Where? A continuous long-distance hike
delivers a big buzz, so maybe try England’s
spectacularly undulating South West Coast
Path or Patagonia’s W Trek. Novice cyclists
should consider a flat, trafic-free ride such
as France’s château-dotted River Loire
or New Zealand’s Otago Central Rail Trail,
or maybe channel Canada’s early gold-rush
prospectors by canoeing the Yukon River.
Take our advice: Look into companies that
transport your luggage while you undertake
your adventure, so you can travel lighter.
2
⊳ TRAVEL LIFE–CHANGING TRAVEL MOMENT
WITH
STRANGERS Simon Reeve
“Glencoe in Scotland was my first
TAKE A PUNT ON PEOPLE
real adventure after I left school.
YOU DON’T KNOW I’d never been anything like that
distance on my own before. When
Our best friends don’t necessarily I arrived it was too late in the day to
make our best travel companions – go anywhere. But I thought I’d go
it can be more fun and less fractious to for a quick hike. When I started my
journey I was an insecure teenager.
4
join like-minded strangers instead. So
sign up for a small-group trip, especially
But the climb changed me. I passed GO EPIC
one with a clear focus. Sharing a particular
hikers and climbers on the way.
More than one eyebrow was raised.
ON YOUR
interest or goal – whether that’s a physical I reached the ridge in the dark, and DOORSTEP
challenge or a shared love of opera – will stood there feeling euphoric and a PLOT BIG ADVENTURES CLOSE TO HOME
help you and your new travel-mates bond. bit brave. I made it down unscathed
You may even make new friends for life. and spent a freezing night in the car, You can enjoy world-class experiences
but I didn’t care. I was elated.”
Where? Small-group trips probe all corners without even leaving the country. Not
of the globe; they’re especially useful for only is there plenty of great stuf here, there
Previous spread Getty Images This Spread Getty Images ; BBC Pictures
taking the hassle out of travel to remote or are ways of making even the everyday seem
bureaucratic destinations. Enjoy the team like an adventure. Add a twist or head a little
spirit of a Kilimanjaro climb (pictured), the out of your comfort zone and even the
cheerful camaraderie of a hands-on Outback streets you know best can blow your mind.
camping trip (perhaps overlanding across Where? Your doorstep. Wild camp atop the
the Kimberley in rugged Western Australia; nearest hill (pictured), take a hike after dark,
see p126) or the mutual appreciation of paddle your local river, cycle the edge of your
an expert-led art tour in Italy. county – microadventures are everywhere!
Take our advice: Be ready to compromise Take our advice: Try something you’ve never
– if you accept a group trip won’t be 100% done before – maybe your first wild swim,
perfect, you’ll definitely enjoy it much more. 50km hike or nocturnal wildlife stakeout.

5
DO SOMETHING
AFTER DARK
CHALLENGE YOUR SENSES
BY EXPLORING AT NIGHT
Whether you’re on a walk, dive, drive

or safari, everything feels diferent
when the lights go out. Your senses
become more alert, familiar objects
feel alien, diferent animals come out
to play and you get a new perspective.
It can also be a little bit scary – but it’s
no bad thing to spook yourself.
Where? Night safaris in African game
parks (pictured) yield a diferent crew
of creatures. Good spots for night dives
include Hawaii’s Kona coast (for manta
rays) and the Maldives.
Take our advice: If you’re afraid, look
for guided activities – for example,
the Sierra Club leads evening hikes
in LA’s Grifith Park. ⊲

6
⊳ DON’T LIFE–CHANGING TRAVEL MOMENT
JUST VISIT,
ENGAGE Hilary Bradt
“In 1964, I went to see a production
BECOME PART OF THE COMMUNITY
of Ibsen’s The Master Builder, but I’d
muddled the dates and instead saw
By getting involved with local life a new play called The Royal Hunt of
– whether that’s signing up as the Sun, about the conquest of the
a volunteer or spending time in a family Incas. I knew nothing about Peru
home – you’ll be viewed less as a tourist, but wanted to learn more. I found
out that there were still Inca ruins
more as a fellow human being. This means
there, so I took a job to earn money
gaining a more authentic cultural insight;
for a South America trip. Five years
you won’t learn only about a destination’s later, I stood gazing down on Machu
landscapes and architecture but also Picchu; another five years on and
about the people who make it tick. I returned with my husband to write
Where? Volunteering opportunities are a backpacking guide to Peru that
worldwide, but it pays to seek a cause you’re started Bradt Travel Guides.”
passionate about and a project where your
presence is helpful. Alternatively, trek with
Berbers in Morocco, stay in a ger (pictured)
with Mongolian nomads or book into a casa
particular (homestay) in Cuba.
Getty Images, Shutterstock
Take our advice: If staying with a family,

know the local rules – what you should wear,
how to eat. It’s respectful to know the social
norms, such as the local word for ‘thank you’.

LIFE–CHANGING TRAVEL
7
JOIN THE
CROWD
GET CAUGHT UP IN FESTIVAL FEVER
While escaping from the masses

is often a good thing, sometimes
it’s better to join in. There’s nothing quite
like being swept up in a great gathering
– you’ll see the local people letting
their hair down, performing old rituals,
cooking up specialities and honouring
their saints, relatives, spirits or samba
bands. Noisy, hectic, messy mayhem?
Quite possibly. Informative fun? Hell yeah!
Where? It’s best when you happen upon
a local knees-up, but you might want to
plan ahead to make sure you’re in the right
place at the right time to ‘play mas’ (joining
a masquerade band) at Trinidad Carnival,
get paint-splattered at Holi in India (pictured)
or booze it up at Munich’s Oktoberfest.
Take our advice: Hook up with a local who
can fill you in on the event dos and don’ts. ⊲

⊳
8 EYEBALL
AN ANIMAL
GET UP CLOSE TO THE MOST
IMPRESSIVE SPECIES
Coming face to face with a big,

beautiful, powerful creature will
put you firmly in your place. Also, the
best wildlife experiences often happen
in the most beautiful spots. Prepare to
feel awed, vulnerable and humbled
– and maybe even question your
responsibility to the planet.
Where? Head to Rwanda or Uganda to
track mountain gorillas, spot tigers in
India, look for jaguars in the Brazilian
Pantanal, cruise Svalbard for polar
bears (pictured) or snorkel with whale
sharks in Western Australia.
Take our advice: Appreciate little critters,
too – a good guide will point out smaller,
equally enthralling wildlife wonders.
9
MAKE A
11
LIFE–CHANGING TRAVEL MOMENT
PERSONAL TRAVEL
PILGRIMAGE Mark Carwardine SLOWLY
“I was just out of university and
FOLLOW YOUR PASSION, RELISH RATHER THAN RUSH
in California for the summer when
WHATEVER IT MAY BE I went on a whale-watching trip.
For the first two hours, there was Heed the words of Carl Honoré, author
For some, it’s saying a prayer in the nothing – I didn’t see a thing. And of In Praise of Slow, who writes: “The
Vatican’s St Peter’s Basilica. For others, then suddenly, without any warning Slow philosophy is… about seeking to do
it’s eating a peanut butter-and-bacon at all, a grey whale – it must have everything at the right speed. Savouring the
been 40 foot long – leapt out of the
sandwich by Elvis’s Graceland grave. hours and minutes rather than just counting
water. I was 21 at the time, but I still
We all have our passions – follow yours. them. Doing everything as well as possible,
remember it in slow-motion: this
Where? The Camino de Santiago (pictured) whale appearing out of nowhere instead of as fast as possible.” Apply that
is the classic pilgrimage trail, but you might and falling back into the water to your travels: linger longer in one place
find more spirituality on the UK’s St Cuthbert’s with a huge splash. I remember rather than dashing from spot to spot; eat
Way or the Via Francigena to Rome. Music thinking: this is what I want to do sustainably, regionally and seasonally; take
fans might like to hit the Blues Highway from with the rest of my life! It all came the time to chat, absorb, walk and explore.
from that one moment.”
Nashville to New Orleans, while bookworms It can lead to geographically limited but
could follow in Phileas Fogg’s footsteps. arguably more enlightening experiences.
Take our advice: Don’t be dissuaded. If you Where? Plan a glorious culinary break in
really want to visit the childhood home Italy’s Piedmont region (pictured), HQ of the
of every Beatle, just go ahead and do it. Slow Food movement. Alternatively, cruise
along Alaska’s Inside Passage, walk between
villages in the Indian Himalaya or hire a city
apartment for a fortnight to blend in locally.
Take our advice: Trust in serendipity – put
the guidebook and smartphone down for
a while and just see where life takes you. ⊲
10
LEARN
SOMETHING
NEW
EXPAND YOUR MIND WHILE
YOU TRAVEL THE GLOBE
Studying while you’re overseas

could change your life – maybe
you’ll enjoy your PADI course so much that
you’ll ditch your day job to become a diving
instructor. Even if it doesn’t, it will give you
new, potentially useful skills, whether they
be conversational French, bread-making or
salsa dancing. Chances are you’ll gain
a deeper insight into everyday life, too.
Where? Learning a language in a country
Alamy; 4Corners Images; Dreamstime; Mark Carwardine
in which it’s spoken is more beneficial and

fun – try Spanish lessons in Guatemala or
a combination Portuguese-and-samba course
in Brazil. Learn sitar-playing in India, cowboy
skills in Montana or gelato-making in Italy.
Take our advice: Stay with a local family
during your learning holiday, so you’re fully
immersed in the language and culture.

Jonathan & Angela Scott

Jonathan: “So what do the
‘Big Cat People’ do
when they’re not tracking
wildlife in Africa? We’re not
divers but we love
snorkelling. Angie, my wife,
was born in Alexandria in
Egypt but brought up on
the coast of Tanzania. So,
when we were in Tonga
and our friend and fellow wildlife photographer
Griet Van Malderen invited us to join her to swim
with humpback whales, we were overjoyed.
“This was something Angie had always wanted
to do, though I had a bit of a problem putting on
a facemask because of my moustache – I basically
swallowed a lot of ocean water. But we did have some
unforgettable encounters. One moment in particular
(pictured here) was absolutely sensational, and so
diferent to the wildlife we normally encounter in the
savannah – for both of us, it was life-changing.”
Griet Laviale-van Malderen; Jonathan & Angela Scott
Angela: “I hadn’t been in the water for more than

a few minutes when, looking down into the blue,
this mother and calf materialised out of the depths
towards me. It was as if time had slowed and all my
senses were wrapped in that moment – one I will
cherish forever. This photograph captures perfectly
a kinder, more considerate and loving relationship
between humans and their wild relatives.”

⊳
12
SEEK OUT A
SPIRITUAL PLACE
VISIT A SITE THAT WILL
SUCCOUR YOUR SOUL
‘Spiritual’ means diferent things

to diferent people. It might mean
worshipping a deity at a temple or even
immersing yourself in the wilderness,
so that you feel a connection to nature.
Some places just have a way of seeping
into your being; of making you ask new
questions about yourself, about others,
maybe even human existence as a whole.
Where? Choose a site filled with devotees,
such as the ghats (riverside steps) of India’s
holy city of Varanasi or the temples of
Kyoto, Japan (pictured). Or seek the
spirituality of nature on a stroll around
Tibet’s Mount Kailash or a camp-out at
Australia’s Uluru.
Take our advice: Remain respectful.
Don’t cross of-limits areas and ask if
there is a dress code or if an ofering
is required.
13
GO ON A
MASSIVE
JOURNEY
DON’T JUST SETTLE FOR A QUICK
GETAWAY – EXTEND YOUR TRAVELS
A two-week trip provides a fantastic

dose of otherness. So just imagine
how much better it might be to go for
longer: a month, six months, six years!
Extended travelling doesn’t just mean
covering more ground, it provokes an
all-round attitude shift. You can ultimately
move more slowly and take more detours;
you’re also forced to cope with catastrophes
and, at times, even boredom. Eventually,
though, you will start to forget the stresses
of home and sink into a diferent mindset.
It’s the ultimate freedom.
Where? Everywhere! Maybe attempt
a round-the-world trip, stopping of in Asia,
Australia and the USA. Or perhaps focus on
one region, such as India by rail (pictured),
overlanding in South America or walking
across the whole of Europe.
Take our advice: Don’t over-plan – things
will always go awry in some way. Have
Dreamstime
a basic itinerary, but allow wiggle room
for spontaneity and cock-ups. ⊲

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16
BE WOWED
Kate Humble BY NATURE
“My most formative life-changing
DELIGHT IN THE PLANET’S MOST
experience was going to South
Africa in the late 1980s. I went to DAZZLING SPECTACLES
a township called Alexandra and
walked around with a young black For all humankind’s incredible
man who took me to meet his inventions, there are many natural
family. All I’d heard about apartheid phenomena that knock them all for six.
14
South Africa was that black people
⊳ GO FAR No movie special efect can match seeing
hated white people and vice versa.
first-hand the magical sky-dance of the
FROM What I discovered was that could
not have been less true, and that aurora borealis (or aurora australis – if you’re
ANYWHERE human beings have an amazing in the southern hemisphere), the ethereal
TRAVEL SOMEWHERE TRULY OFF THE GRID capacity for joy, even in dificult glow of bioluminescence, the flash and
circumstances. It made me think: fury of a lightning storm or the rage of
According to a 2018 Ofcom report, don’t just believe what you read a tornado. Witnessing any one of these will
– go and experience it for yourself.”
Brits spend an average of 24 hours make you bow down to Mother Nature.
a week on the internet. Just think how you Where? For aurora thrills, head to the light-
could be spending that day. Take a digital pollution-free, less cloudy parts of the Arctic
detox by going completely of-grid; travel Circle – Abisko in Sweden, Finnish Lapland
somewhere wild and remote to free yourself (pictured). For bioluminescence try visiting
from the online world and enjoy engaging the lagoons in Puerto Rico and Tobago.
with the real world instead. Take our advice: Increase your chances
Where? Tourists aren’t allowed online in of sightings with planning and research:
North Korea. Or feel your own insignificance bioluminescence is brighter around a new
in an enormous wilderness such as the moon; aurora regions issue forecasts
Canadian Yukon, the high Himalaya, the predicting the likelihood of displays. ⊲
Namib Desert (pictured) or the Amazon.
Take our advice: You can find internet
access in even the most unlikely places
these days, so self-discipline may be
required. At least disable social media and
leave your phone for emergencies only.
15 TRAVEL
CREATIVELY
TURN YOUR JOURNEY INTO
A MEMORABLE PIECE OF ART
We all like taking holiday snaps, but

how about taking your creativity a little
further? Write a blog or travelogue, paint
a picture, pen a song or make a video about
your trip and it will force you to look at
everything diferently; to consider other
angles and perspectives; to really look. Plus,
you’ll have a unique souvenir at the end.
Where? Book a trip specifically focused
on a creative pursuit, such as an art safari in
Malawi or a travel-writing retreat in Spain.
Or perhaps try making a short film of
a long-distance cycle trip across Asia.
Take our advice: Don’t get hung up on
quality, just create. Write, sketch or compose
Dreamstime
whatever comes into your head – you can

edit it into perfection afterwards.

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17
⊳ FOLLOW AN
ANCIENT
TRAIL
FEEL THE FORCE OF OUR FOREBEARS
Tracing the routes of erstwhile

explorers, emigrants, merchants,
monarchs, pioneers and pilgrims ofers
a connection back to the past. Following
their formative footsteps brings the history
of the world to life, and can imbue your
modern-day travels with greater meaning.
Where? Hike Hadrian’s Wall (pictured) or the
15th-century paving slabs of Peru’s Inca Trail,
or even cycle grafitied concrete remains
along the Berlin Wall Trail. Plot an overland
expedition along the Silk Road or from
St Louis to the Pacific in the wake of Lewis and
Clark, whose 1808 expedition first opened up
the western USA. Or just bag a flight to the
ultimate explorer homage: the South Pole.
Take our advice: Read up before you go,
and know how to recognise a strip lynchet
(earth terrace), Roman road, Neolithic tomb
or a caravanserai (old inn).
19
SCARE
Simon Calder YOURSELF
“To my wide-eyed amazement,
PUSH YOUR LIMITS FOR THE MOST
the Woodcraft Folk organisation
volunteered to take a six-year-old MEMORABLE EXPERIENCES
from the streets of Crawley to the
wonders of Westmorland (Cumbria) Leaving your comfort zone is how you
for a week’s camping. After one day learn and grow – you’ll be surprised
exploring a landscape carved by what you’re capable of. Travel encourages
rivers and dry stone walls, I became
such boundary pushing, and can build
lost amid brooding fells and stormy
18
DO SOMETHING skies, and I learned travellers can
confidence. Embrace it!
Where? Arachnophobes could sleep in
FOR THE rely on the kindness of strangers.
Decades later, I have been lost and a hammock in the Amazon. Heights-haters
FIRST TIME rescued many times. I am no better could walk across a glass suspension
INVIGORATE YOUR TRAVELS at lighting a fire from twigs than bridges in China (pictured). You could even
BY DOING SOMETHING NEW I was when I was six. But I am always cage dive with great whites of South Africa.
thankful for the Woodcraft Folk.”
Take our advice: There’s no need to utterly
Don’t go back to the same old places in terrify yourself – pick a challenge that will
the same old ways. Head to a country ultimately give you a buzz, not a coronary. ⊲
you’ve never visited, use a mode of transport
you’ve never tried, eat a dish you can’t
pronounce – and have the time of your life.
Where? The travelsphere is always dreaming
up adventures. Try stand-up paddleboarding
in the Greek Islands (pictured), fatbiking over
Alamy; Getty Images; Shutterstock
the UAE’s dunes or using an app such as

EatWith to join a dinner party in Paris.
Take our advice: These days it’s easy to find
unique experiences. Follow local bloggers/
papers on social media to see what’s new.

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Rwanda remains blissfully under Park – the ultimate destination is also a boon, with its Kigali hub
the radar. Yet thanks to new 2019. With a travel time of eight to get up close with these apes. now serving 26 cities all over
flights with RwandAir, it has hours and 40 minutes, and Thanks to fervent conservation Africa as well as the Middle
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from London Gatwick to Kigali, are quick and comfortable, so as rare golden monkeys.
Rwanda’s capital and Africa’s you can start your adventure
cleanest city, three times a week with plenty of energy. PLANNING A TRIP
(Tuesdays, Thursdays and And you’ll need it, because While Rwanda can be blissfully
Saturdays), but will add an Rwanda is full of wild escapes. wild, it’s also reassuringly safe: in
additional service (Fridays) from In Akagera National Park, you’ll 2017, it was ranked the
14 December until 11 January find the Big Five thriving, thanks 11th-safest country in the world
For more information, visit rwandair.com or to book call the UK Reservations Team on 01293 874 922
22
SAVE A
Nick Baker SPECIES
“On the Katmai peninsula in Alaska,
HELP CONSERVE WILDLIFE (AND CHANGE
a brown bear sauntered to within
a couple of metres of me, gave
MINDS LOCALLY) BY PAYING THEM A VISIT
a loud ‘harrumph’, as if utterly
unimpressed by my presence, then The rallying cry of many conservation
strolled back to hooking salmon out organisations is that animals are ‘worth
of the river with his great paws. In more alive’. Prove that’s true by going to see
that single moment, I not only felt the species that need help. Your presence –
more alive than I had ever done
20
⊳ SLEEP before, but my whole life and all
and pounds sterling – can help convince
local communities and governments that
UNDER the wildlife I’d experienced prior to
this suddenly made sense. I finally there is value in protecting habitats. Tourism
THE STARS understood what the true definition can be a powerful force in providing the kind
STARE UP AT THE HEAVENS TO of ‘wild’ was, and also how it was of incentives that may turn hardened
RESET YOUR WORLD VIEW missing from most of our lives.” poachers into potential tour guides and
threatened landscapes into national parks.
There’s nothing like contemplating Where? Spotting turtles in Tortuguero, on
the huge, dark unknowableness of the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, can have
the universe for putting us in our place. It’s huge local benefits. One year of turtle-based
a reminder of how teeny-tiny we are. It’s also tourism here can generate around US$6.5
healthy to get away from light-polluted million (£5m), says the World Wildlife Fund.
civilisation, not to mention how magical it is Alternatively, spend your days looking for
to lie back and be dazzled by a billion stars. elephants (pictured) in Africa. According to
Where? Oficial International Dark Sky the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, a live
Reserves – such as Jasper in Canada or elephant is worth US$22,966 (£17,750) a year
Namibia’s NamibRand – are a good start. to the local economy through eco-tourism.
Wild camp on Exmoor, spend a night with Take our advice: Do your research and use
Bedouin in Jordan’s Wadi Rum (pictured) or guides and companies that ofer sustainable
splash out on a five-star safari lodge that has and responsible animal interactions. ⊲
four-poster beds you can wheel outside.
Take our advice: Download an astronomy
app such as Night Sky to help you identify
the stars. Consider coordinating your
sleep-out with the next meteor shower.
21
ABANDON
YOUR
INHIBITIONS
GO ON – THROW CAUTION TO THE WIND!
Us Brits can be a reserved bunch. But

away from the social conventions and
judging eyes of our brethren, why not loosen
up a little? No one knows you, after all. So
go for that skinny dip, shake your stuf at the
local festival, sing like no one’s listening in
that packed karaoke bar. Set yourself free!
Where? Swim naked on the azure-lapped
beaches of the Greek isles. Steam in
a Japanese onsen (clothing not allowed).
Dance outrageously at a Rio Carnival bloco
(street party), learn how to haka (war dance)
in New Zealand or hit Havana’s salsa clubs.
Dreamstime; Nick Baker
Take our advice: While it’s good to let go, be

sure not to break any laws at the same time.
Not all beaches welcome birthday suits...

23
⊳ TRAVEL FOR
THE GREATER
GOOD
PUT YOUR MONEY WHERE IT’S NEEDED,
WHEN IT’S NEEDED
After a natural disaster or terrorist

attack, an entire country is often struck
of the travel map. Sometimes the Foreign
Ofice (FCO) warns against returning – and
these warnings should be heeded when in
efect. But sometimes it’s only media hype
that keeps travellers away, which can leave
local people dealing not only with the initial
disaster but loss of livelihood, too. By visiting
such places, you might have to cope with
a less-than-perfect infrastructure but you’re
also assured the warmest of welcomes.
Where? Dominica, Puerto Rico and other
Caribbean islands hit by 2017’s devastating
hurricanes; earthquake-recovering Nepal
(pictured); rebounding Egypt and Tunisia,
most of which is now of the FCO no-go list.
Take our advice: Don’t go back too soon
– in the immediate aftermath of a disaster,
your presence may be more of a hindrance.
25
LIFE–CHANGING TRAVEL MOMENT AND FINALLY,
TRAVEL
Michael Palin MORE!
“There was one voyage that
GET AWAY AS OFTEN AS YOU CAN
changed the way that I looked at
the world: going from Dubai to
Mumbai on a dhow boat. It was Nothing opens your mind, broadens
in 1988, a time before sat nav and your horizons and revives your body
mobile phones, and as we made our and soul quite like travel. Exposure to new
way down the Gulf, through the sites, societies and experiences is formative in
Strait of Hormuz and across the
the best of ways, we believe, so do it as often
Arabian Sea, we were entirely
as you can. Forgo buying designer shoes and
dependent on our crew of 16
Gujaratis, only one of whom spoke fancy meals and save for trips instead – when
24
ACCEPT THE any English. But we struck up
a rapport, and I was a diferent
you look back years later, you’ll surely have far
fonder memories of your time spent abroad
KINDNESS OF person after that journey. My guard than of a half-forgotten pair of Gucci brogues.
STRANGERS was down and my fear of the
unknown had begun to evaporate.”
Find creative ways to carve out more time or
TRAVEL WITH AN OPEN MIND money for travel, or simply squeeze in little
AND AN OPEN HEART microadventures where you can. Negotiate
a four-day week, so you can set of on
Listen to news reports and it’s all doom mini-breaks; stockpile holiday for a big trip;
and gloom, but head there yourself and work out of a campervan while you’re on the
you discover overwhelming hospitality, with road; or maybe housesit for locals when they
people who have little giving so much. Learn go abroad. There’s always a way!
to accept it graciously, and pay it back in turn. Where? Everywhere!
Where? Iran (pictured) and Sudan, both Take our advice: In between trips, be sure
renowned for being ‘dangerous’, are also to travel vicariously – look out for news of
Dreamstime; Getty Images
well known for their amazing hospitality. various travel talks and events (see p17),
Take our advice: Learn a little local lingo, so watch the many TV travelogues that
you can converse with your hosts – even if arrive on our screens every season
it’s only ‘thank you for my eighth cup of tea’. and, of course, read Wanderlust!

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OF WHITE BEARS
Found only in the wildlife-rich remote islands of British Columbia, spirit bears have
Fantastic beasts
A spirit bear saunters
across a log on the lookout
for fish; (right) a group of
orcas patrols the channel
AND BLACK FISH
long been revered by First Nations peoples. We visit in search of the elusive ursine
WORDS LYN HUGHES
he osprey took off from a cedar The pair surfaced again further away. We also spotted a third
tree and soared above, framed orca that was clearly part of the little group but not travelling as
against a brilliant blue sky, its closely to them. Our boat was following the coastline south, and
white underparts gleaming in the orcas were travelling in the same direction, albeit slaloming
the sun. My legs were braced, across our path – sometimes surfacing on one side, sometimes
steadying me against the another; sometimes relatively close, sometimes several hundred
boat’s motion, as I watched metres away. We each took hundreds of photos of bits of dorsal
the beautiful raptor through fin peeping above the waves as the orcas shallow-dived.
Previous Spread Alamy; Spirit Bear Lodge This Spread Spirit Bear Lodge/Cael Cook; Lyn Hughes; Spirit Bear Lodge/Douglas Neasloss; Spirit Bear Lodge
my binoculars. “They are hunting for fish,” said our guide, Brady. “Or anything
A whooshing noise next to else they come across, such as seals or porpoises.” As if on cue,
the boat made me jump, and a large salmon leapt out of the water. The orca were circling in
I looked down to see that two pursuit of the fish so we stopped, turned the engine off and
orcas – killer whales – had surfaced right beside us. It was Brady lowered a hydrophone into the water, but there wasn’t
one of those extraordinary moments when time both stands much to be heard. “They will be transients,” said Brady. “If they
still and races by. were residents they would be a family group and communicating
There was just time to be impressed by their size and power with each other all the time. But these guys are hunting and not
before they descended again under the waves. There were half really communicating with each other.”
a dozen of us on the back of the boat, and we were all equally Often described as the wolves of the sea, orcas are divided into
stunned. “Did anyone get a photo?” I asked. No, we had all three ecotypes: residents who stay in an area in family groups
been as surprised as each other by the close encounter. and eat fish; transients who travel and hunt over a large range
and are more opportunistic about what they eat; and offshore
orca who live far out to sea and have been little studied.
‘“We’ve had great orca We started the engine again and carried on at the same speed
as the orcas. Eventually, around an hour after we had first
sightings this year. But encountered them, another boat came up behind us, belonging
to some people from the local community, and we reluctantly
that was one of the most left the creatures behind.

“We have been getting great orca sightings this year,” said
magical I have ever had”’ Brady. “But this was one of the most magical orca experiences
I have ever had.” Only the evening before, back at our lodge, ⊲

CANADA
Water world
(clockwise from far left) Spirit
Bear Lodge in the sunshine – the
design of the building echoes the
traditional long houses
constructed by West Coast First
Nations peoples for thousands of
years; guide Brady giving
a briefing before a walk in the
forest; a humpback whale
breaches the surface; out
exploring the region’s waterways;
a seal takes a rest on a rock

Lyn Hughes; Spirit Bear Lodge/Cael Cook; Spirit Bear Lodge
CANADA
Drinking in the scenery

(clockwise from far left) Two
grizzly bears stop for a drink by
the shore; a humpback whale
displays its fluke as it dives; one of
the estimated 15,000 grizzlies
believed to be still roaming the
mountains and forests of British
Columbia; the front deck of Spirit
Bear Lodge; taking a break from
seeking bears in the boat

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⊲ we had heard from a researcher that orcas have the largest The hot weather and no rain means everything has been
brain relative to body weight of any animal on Earth, that they turned on its head. The salmon can’t get in the rivers yet, and
are highly social and have empathy, and that they are the only it’s an exceptional berry year, too, so no need for the bears to
animals other than us who go through the menopause. come to the rivers. Even in a normal season your chance of
Assistant guide David turned to me. “Our people are all seeing one would have been no more than 50%, but this year,
one of four clans: Raven, Wolf, Eagle or Blackfish (orca). I am spotting them is very diicult.”
a Blackfish. So that was very special for me.” David is one of John predicted that I would nevertheless enjoy the experience
the local Kitasoo and Xai’Xais First Nations who have lived in of being here. “You don’t get to see wilderness like this any more.
this area for thousands of years. Although two distinct This is the crown jewel of the Great Bear Rainforest. It is
indigenous groups, they have come together, with most of protected and will stay that way. The deep connection to land
the population living in Klemtu, a remote village based on that the people have here is very special; it has lasted thousands
one of the multitude of islands that pockmark this stretch of years. They have stories connected to each place in the
of the British Columbia coast. territory, which go back to a time when magic still existed. It’s
Twenty years ago, realising that their people needed a really authentic culture. They live and feel it.”
alternative ways of making a living, two of the community Later, news came in that a local person had spotted a white
decided that tourism could be the answer. They live in the bear that very day at a certain inlet, and so John suggested that
heart of the Great Bear Rainforest, part of the world’s largest I should join some guests who would be going there the next
temperate rainforest, with a greater biomass even than the day. We clambered into the boat after breakfast, all willing that
Amazon jungle. Their initial idea developed into ecotourism, this would be a lucky day. Brady introduced our captain as
and then into Spirit Bear Lodge, a pioneering ecolodge Charlie Mason, hereditary chief of the Kitasoo. It was Charlie
owned by the community. who, along with Douglas Neasloss, chief councillor for the
Nation, instigated tourism and the lodge.
W
hat brings many of the guests here is the A heavy mist hung over the water and curtained the forested
possibility of seeing the region’s most famous hillsides as we chugged past a pod of porpoises and through
resident, the rare spirit bear, a white-furred a channel, before eventually emerging on the coast. Around
genetic variant of the black bear of which only 90 minutes after leaving the lodge, we pulled into an inlet.
a few hundred exist. I have longed to see one, ever since I first Charlie anchored the boat and we transferred into a couple ⊲
heard whispers about them many years ago.
Hence, I had arrived at the lodge in a state of excitement the
previous afternoon, but manager John Czornobaj soon dashed
my expectations of spotting a spirit bear. He gestured to the
‘“The deep connection to
warm sunshine outside: “This heatwave is very unusual.
land that people have here
is special; it has lasted
thousands of years”’
Protected paradise
Since 2016, 85% of the vast
Great Bear Rainforest has
been safeguarded from
industrial logging
Lyn Hughes

CANADA
Whale of a time
A humpback
breaches the waters;
(below) Charlie
Mason, hereditary
chief of the Kitasoo
⊲ of Zodiacs, one following the shore on one side of the bay, where two creeks converged. Eight bald eagles took off from the
ours taking the other side. surrounding trees but then returned to their perches where they
Having spotted nothing, we turned back to an area where watched for salmon. We sat on logs in a state of reverie, next to
a creek fed into the bay, turned off the engine and bobbed about. old hemlock trees covered in lichen. Then, returning to the boat,
It was a pretty spot, and the creek had a small set of falls. Brady we found a tuft of spirit bear fur on a bush next to the trail.
explained that above the falls was a lagoon that provided ideal At our next stop it was tufts of grizzly fur that were in
conditions for sockeye salmon. When there has been rain, and evidence. In a beautiful river valley we took to the Zodiacs and
when the tide is high, the water rises to submerge the falls and pulled up at a ‘stomp’ trail used by grizzlies to visit a ‘rubbing
the salmon swim up the creek. tree’. We walked to the side of the well-worn path, covered in
The water was crystal clear, and a school of 20 salmon passed bear tracks, as Brady explained that in breeding season the bears
under our Zodiac. David explained that the community had would come here to rub against the spruce tree, leaving their
already completed its fishing for the season as they had caught scent. “It’s like the Tinder of the bear world.”
enough salmon for the winter. “We practice conservation. We We still hadn’t seen an actual bear, whether white, black or
got taught by our elders not to mistreat the land and the water. brown. But one of my fellow guests, who like me was leaving in
Otherwise, one day we will run out of food.” the morning, mused that she had still enjoyed her stay. “Sitting
For several hours – interrupted only by a break back on the in that boat yesterday in perfect silence – it was the closest to
main boat – we floated in the bright sunshine, the temperature a meditative experience I have ever had. I don’t know how
in the early 20s, a gentle breeze blowing. The sole sound was the I explain that to family and friends b
running water of the falls, punctuated by the occasional keening My final morning dawned, and the
of a bald eagle and the splash of jumping salmon. But we air because dark clouds cloaked the
eventually had to admit defeat on the white bear front, and temperature was noticeably cooler.
rejoined the boat. But it was as we left the bay that nature be leaving, but was promised we’d be
decided to present us with a magical blackfish encounter. the way to the little airport at Bella
assistant guide was Troy and he intr
Bearing up a Raven. He explained how the clan
Spirit Bear Lodge/Cael Cook
The next day we rejoined Charlie and Brady but took a different the mother’s side, and so his mothe
direction. We spent time in an enchanted forest, revelling in the too, while his dad is a Wolf. He adm
profound silence, the ancient trees, the rich smells. We walked a strong ainity with Ravens and th
a trail in single file, our steps muled, and emerged at a spot “talks” to them using the same call.

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‘After laughing, we had

to cover our faces as the Spirit bears
whale’s rank-smelling “Wee’get, the Raven, being the creator and
wishing to leave a reminder for all time that once
breath enveloped us’ the land was white with ice and snow, set an island
aside to be the home of the White Bear People.
Then he went among the black bears and every
tenth one he made white, and decreed that they
⊳ What three days earlier may have seemed a slightly surreal would never leave the island for here they could
conversation to be having, now seemed completely natural. live in peace forever.”
Setting off, we headed into a fjord, moody clouds blanketing ‘Story of the Spirit Bear’ told in the book
the tops of the cliffs. The boat suddenly slowed down as Somewhere Between by Anthony Carter, who
a humpback whale had been spotted. I went out onto the back collected the stories of the Kitasoo/Xai’xais
deck in time to see it do a shallow dive. “It’s been under a long…”
I started to say but was interrupted by a whooshing sound,
and the whale surfaced right by the boat, letting out a huge
exhalation as it did so. We laughed in exhilaration, but then had
to cover our faces as its rank-smelling breath enveloped us.
Carrying on further up the fjord, we anchored the boat at its
end and took the Zodiacs to a spit of sand. Clams scattered the
ground as we walked in single file along the beach, across tidal
flats and onto an area of sedge grass. A grizzly had recently been
spotted here, and so Brady was hoping we might get a sighting.
We headed for a couple of bushy small trees and hunkered down,
trying to merge into them.
Troy revealed that he was the grandson of Charlie, the chief, and
that Charlie’s mother came from this bay. It was beautiful but
more forbidding than some of the other places we had been, and
surely suffered cold winters and strong winds. The diet of Troy’s
great-grandmother would have been fish, crab, berries and seals.
He then told us the creation myth of his people. A raven was
the creator, and it was looking for a suitable place to create
human life. This spot had red cedar and sitka trees, and it had
fish, clams and mussels. The raven landed and beat his wings
twice. One wing fell and was the first man, the second wing fell
off and was the first woman.
We had a hushed conversation about leaving for the airport,
and started to shift when a flicker of movement caught our
attention. We could see glimpses of a grizzly bear running,
mostly hidden by the long grass. It stopped and teased us with
sightings of its ears, head and back as it slowly made its way
along a shallow gully. Every now and then it put its head up and
looked towards us, clearly aware of our presence.
It really was time for us to leave, but then the bear strolled out
onto the tidal flats. She was still a good distance away but, as she
emerged, we realised why she had been so cautious of us.
Following her were two cubs, around 12 to 18 months old. Unlike
mum, they were unconcerned and happily wrestled and played.
We sat motionless and in silence. The mother kept checking
DID YOU KNOW?
The spirit bear, also known as the
on us, sniing the air. Eventually, they turned away and
Kermode bear – and as a white bear by
disappeared back out of sight, the long sedge grass and forest
behind swallowing all trace of them. the First Nations people – is a variant
Spirit Bear Lodge’s manager, John, had told me how coming of the black bear and is found in British
to the lodge had been a life-changing experience for him. With Columbia, mainly on Princess Royal,
Spirit Bear Lodge/Cael Cook
my too brief visit, I couldn’t claim that, and I had ultimately Gribbell and Roderick Islands.
failed in my quest to see the white bears myself. Yet I realised No one knows exactly how many there are,
that I nevertheless felt enriched. Oh, and that I had just but the number is believed to be fewer
experienced the best airport transfer ever. than 400.

Footnotes June to September 2019, with early
booking recommended.
The longer Ultimate Pacific Coast
It is owned by the Kitasoo/Xai’Xais
nation and over half the staf are
from the community.
Experience, exploring the wild For good wildlife viewing, it is
coastal landscapes of Vancouver advisable to spend at least three
Spirit Bear Lodge, Island and the Sunshine Coast
as well as Whistler, costs from
nights at the lodge – four or five
are even better. Excursions last
Great Bear Rainforest, £3,408pp. Discover the World ofers all day and are by boat, but shore
all airline options to Canada, with landings and forays are made by
British Columbia prices in June 2019 starting from RIB. Kayaking, hiking and cultural
around £389pp for a return flight. activities are available, too.
Getting there Further reading

Nearest airport Bella Bella is served & information
by Pacific Coastal Airlines from https://greatbearrainforest.gov.
Vital statistics Vancouver South Terminal. The lodge bc.ca – the oficial site for the
State capital: Vancouver runs a boat transfer service. Many Great Bear Rainforest
Population: 4,648,055 airlines fly from the UK to Vancouver. www.explore-canada.co.uk
Language: English, French and – Destination Canada’s site
native languages, including those of WHAT Spirit Bear Lodge www.smithsonian.com – has a
the Kitasoo/Xai’Xais peoples TO PACK The lodge is situated in Klemtu on good 2015 article about the threats
Time: GMT-7 The weather is Swindle Island (www.spiritbear.com). to the Great Bear Rainforest
Visas: UK citizens need an very changeable,
Electronic Travel Authorization (eTA; so take layers.
canada.ca/eta) to enter Canada by The lodge
air. It costs CA$7 (£4) per person. provides More online
Money: Canadian dollar, currently Visit wanderlust.co.uk/guides/canada
waterproofs and
CA$1.71 to the UK£
wellingtons for
Planning guide
shore excursions.
When to go Canada Travel Guide
Insect repellent
June: Grizzly bears with cubs Archive articles
emerge from their dens. Other is a good idea. ‘Meet Canada’s Ice Bears’ (issue 149) – Spying grizzlies in North Yukon
wildlife, including humpback Don’t forget ‘Close Enough to Cuddle’ (issue 141) – Brown bear encounters in Alaska
whales, are active. binoculars. ‘Spirited Away’ (issue 89) – Spirit bears in Canada’s Great Bear Rainforest
July: The best weather. Grizzlies are
still often seen on the sedge grass.
Black bears become more visible
by the end of the month.
Mid-August to mid-October:
Salmon are in the rivers, which
means you have the best chance
of seeing spirit and other bears,
but sightings aren’t guaranteed.
Health & safety

There are no particular health
hazards, but do as your guide says
in areas where there may be bears.
The trip
The author travelled with Discover
the World (discover-the-world.co.uk;
01737 218 802). A similar trip costs
from £2,285pp (based on two
sharing), including return flights
Map illustration by Scott Jessop
from Vancouver to Bella Bella and

four nights at Spirit Bear Lodge on
a full-board basis with excursions,
guides, local transfers and two nights
in Vancouver. Departures are from

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TRIP PLANNER
ECUADOR &
THE GALAPAGOS
ISLANDS
Rumbling volcanoes, wildlife wonderlands, Amazonian jungle… how can you
cram in everything Ecuador has to ofer? Simple – just follow our guide
WORDS BEN BOX & SARAH CAMERON
O
⊳ Webbed sights ur final Ecuador, they say, is small enough Reaching the outskirts of Otavalo,
A brown pelican paddles
instructions at to start your day with howler monkeys we drove around Lago de San Pablo
in the Pacific; (top right)
the 17th-century Sacha Lodge in the rainforest, lunch with llamas beneath Imbabura volcano to
Hacienda Cusín; were, “Leave on a volcano and watch pelicans on Hacienda Cusín in time for dinner.
(previous page) the
beautiful Galápagos
your bags the Pacific at dusk. But while you This 17th-century hacienda, with its
island of Bartolomé outside the door can do that, it’s a bit of a rushed job own chapel set in gardens with
of your cabin before breakfast”. – we managed two-thirds of the ancient trees and cobbled paths,
After 48 magical hours exploring challenge (the pelicans will have to has religious-themed bedrooms
forest trails, canopy walkways and wait). After lunch – not on a and huge beds to lie back on.
creeks, we paddled of across the mountain, but in a mall in Quito’s The next morning we headed to
lodge’s serene lake at first light. eastern suburbs – we took a detour Otavalo’s livestock market, where
Taking a launch up the Río Napo, en route to Otavalo to visit the traders sell everything from cattle
we continued our journey by bus Pre-Columbian archaeological to guinea pigs. We, though, were
through remnants of jungle and site of Cochasquí. Taking up saving our cash for the textiles in
land cleared for agriculture and oil a commanding position, these the Plaza de Ponchos, renowned as
extraction to reach Lago Agrio four-sided mounds with long tolas the best market in Ecuador.
Airport. From there, our plane (ramps) dedicated to the stars and Wandering among its stalls, the
climbed from green lowlands to the moon are popular with amateur handicrafts portrayed the culture and
Andean heights, hardly descending astronomers and UFO hunters. history here – a vast and wild land
at all to touch down at Quito’s We didn’t see any spacecraft, but steeped in legends and folklore that
brand new airport. we did see plenty of llamas. we grew to love through our travels. ⊳
PAC I F I C C O L O M B I A Galápagos Isla Pinta 0 100km

OCEAN
Islands Isla Marchena
Atacames
Isla
Previous page: Alamy; This page: Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Alamy; Pete Oxford/Minden Pictures
Otavalo Genovesa
Volcán
QUITO Wolf
Canoa Equator
Cotopaxi Isla
Volcán
Santiago
nte
Darwin
Manta Chimborazo Isla Bartolomé P A C I F I C
El Orie
Tungurahua Yasuní
Puerto NP
Riobamba
López
Guayaquil
Isla
Fernandina Isla
Isla Baltra O C E A N
Macas Isabela Isla Santa
Cruz
Cuenca Puerto
Cerro Azul I. Santa Fé
Sierra
Ayora Isla
Negra San Cristóbal
Huaquillas PUERTO
P E R U BAQUERIZO MORENO
Vilcabamba
Isla Isla
Macará 0 250km
Española
Floreana

ECUADOR & THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS
From the Andes to the islands

(Clockwise from top left)
Galápagos giant tortoises camp
out in a volcano crater on Isabela
Island; indigenous Ecuadorians
celebrate the winter solstice in
the Andes; a whale shark lurks of
the coast of Wolf Island; a chagra
Ecuadorian cowboy rounds up his
cattle herd at the base of
Cotapaxi volcano

THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS

⊳
Best for: Wildlife, landscapes, snorkelling, history
DURATION: 5–10 days activity is undeniable and all visits and Floreana. You can stay in one of
ROUTE: Fly from Quito or are strictly controlled by the the towns (such as Puerto Ayora or
Guayaquil to the Santa Cruz National Park authorities. Santa Cruz), on the beach-front or
or San Cristóbal islands, then A cruise will take you to more inland in luxury safari-style tents.
take a cruise or island hop. remote islands, sailing at night and From there, you can then take day
WHY GO? On everybody’s bucket giving access to the wildlife at its trips to nearby islands with more
list, the wildlife of the Galápagos most active, with opportunities to scope for activities such as water
is second to none. snorkel with the likes of hammerhead sports and hiking. There are Lion around
WHEN TO GO? All year; hot Dec sharks and sea lions. There are also inter-island flights, but much Sea lions relaxing on the
to May; cool Jun to Nov. High cruises specifically for diving. Four cheaper (and rougher) are the beach at Española Island;
(right) a marine iguana
season Jun to Aug, Dec to Jan. islands have accommodation: scheduled boats connecting the frolics underwater of the
Santa Cruz, San Cristóbal, Isabela four inhabited islands. ⊳ coast of Fernandina
There are two options for visiting
the Galápagos: take a cruise or base
Isla Pinta
yourself on an island and visit other Isla
Isabela
Isla Marchena PAC I F I C
stops from there. Each island has its Isla
Santiago OCEAN
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Pete Oxford/Minden Pictures
unique wildlife – birds, reptiles,

Isla Santa Isla QUITO
marine mammals and fish – and Isla
Fernandina Cruz San Cristóbal
Puerto
anyone intending to visit will be Puerto Ayora PUERTO
familiar with the fundamental role

Villamil
Isla Floreana
BAQUERIZO MORENO
Isla
ECUADOR
Española
these creatures played in helping Galápagos Guayaquil
Charles Darwin develop his theory Islands
of evolution. The fragility of this 0 250km
environment in the face of human

DID YOU
KNOW?
The Galápagos are
volcanic in origin and
La Cumbre on Fernandina
and Sierra Negra, one of
five volcanoes on Isabela,
have both erupted
this year.

DID YOU
KNOW?
The railway from Quito to
Durán, near Guayaquil, has
had a chequered history
but is now privatised
(www.trenecuador.com).
It ofers a full, four-day Sierra-
to-coast experience, plus
short tourist excursions north
and south of Quito and
in the lowlands.

QUITO AND
⊳
AROUND
Best for: culture, landscapes, markets, wildlife
DURATION: 7–10 days Two hours north, Otavalo is

ROUTE: Quito • Otavalo • home to Ecuador’s premier market.
Mindo • Papallacta Every day the Plaza de Ponchos fills
WHY GO? To binge on colonial with stalls selling textiles and other
architecture and daytime and crafts – Saturdays are normally
nighttime culture; to straddle two busiest. It’s worth spending three
hemispheres and to visit markets, or four days in the area to visit
cloud forest and hot springs. weavers’ villages, lakes and the Otavalo Lago de
San Pablo
WHEN TO GO? All year; rainy northern highlands.
season Oct to May To the north-west of Quito lies
the active Pichincha Volcano. From
Quito, one of UNESCO’s first ever the city, the TelefériQo cable car Tolas de
World Heritage Sites, has a split takes you up to the 4,000m Cruz Cochasqui
personality. The Centro Histórico’s Loma viewpoint, while the western Mitad
del Mundo
steep, narrow streets link colonial flanks are a bird-rich cloud forest.
churches, museums, markets and You can overnight in wildlife-
grand houses, several of which oriented or community-based Mindo
have been converted into hotels. lodges, or stay a few days in the Airport
Calle La Ronda is typical: a maze little town of Mindo, a playground
of craft shops by day and buzzing for Quiteños at weekends but QUITO
with nightlife after dark. On the quiet the rest of the week. Historic
Centre
other hand, modern Quito, a bus East of Quito are the Papallacta
or taxi ride away, is the business, thermal springs, with public pools
hotel and entertainment quarter and an exclusive spa and hotel. It
and stretches north almost to the makes a good day trip, but also
Mitad del Mundo, a monument a relaxing base for the start or end 0 5km
marking the equator. of your Ecuadorian journey. ⊳ Papallacta

Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Alamy; Pete Oxford/Minden Pictures
Twilight zone
Quito beds down for the
night; (top) the bustling
market at Saquisilí; (left)
traditional cucuruchos
take part in a Quito Holy
Week procession

DID YOU
KNOW?
Panama hats are made from
paja toquilla, which grows
in Manabí province on the
Pacific lowlands. They
are woven either there or
near Cuenca and finished
in factories, mostly in
Cuenca. The finest weaves
come from the town of
Montecristi and sell for
four-figure sums.

One to gush over

The spectacular 150m
San Rafael waterfall is
the tallest in Ecuador
THE ORIENTE
⊳
Lago Agrio
QUITO San Rafael
Falls
Cuyabeno
National Park
Best for: wildlife, culture, rafting
Papallacta Río Nap o
Baeza Coca
DURATION: 3–10 days road gives access to the whole
ROUTE: Quito • Baeza • Amazonian region, from Lago Agrio
Tena Yasuní
Coca or Lago Agrio; Baños • in the north to Zamora in the south.
Misahuallí
National Park Tena • Misahuallí; Loja • Zamora Local lodges are reasonably
WHY GO? To stay in lodges comfortable, providing three good
Baños
Puyo ofering all-inclusive packages meals a day, high-quality guides
in some of the most biodiverse and a wide range of activities
places on earth. (birdwatching, jungle treks, canopy
WHEN TO GO? Driest months Oct walkways, boat trips). Many are
to Feb, but expect rain at any time associated with local communities.
The two main areas of interest are
Reaching the Amazonian lowlands the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve,
in the north of the country often reached from Lago Agrio, and the
requires a river boat trip after Yasuní National Park and Río Napo,
a flight or road journey from Quito reached from Coca. Both zones
or Baños. The highway from Quito ofer opportunities to see wildlife.
passes Papallacta and descends Another popular area is around
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Pete Oxford/Minden Pictures
to Baeza, a kayaking and rafting Tena – also a kayaking and rafting

centre, before heading north-east centre – and Misahuallí, one of the
past Ecuador’s highest waterfall, original starting points for jungle
San Rafael. Further south, the tours. Although many parts of the
Baños to Tena road is also truly Oriente are competing with oil
0 50km spectacular, decorated with exploration, ecotourism is fighting
Loja Zamora tunnels and waterfalls. A paved hard to keep areas pristine.

CENTRAL
ECUADOR QUITO
Best for: landscapes, culture, trekking, riding, markets

Papallacta
DURATION: 7–10 days market is a major indigenous event. Machachi

ROUTE: Quito • Cotopaxi • Latacunga celebrates La Mama
Latacunga • Quilotoa • Negra in September and
Baños • Riobamba November, a riotous but confusing Cotopaxi
WHY GO? Good for active afair honouring the Virgen de la
pursuits, de-stressing in hot Merced, whose central figure is Lasso
Quilotoa
springs and train bufs. a man dressed as a black woman.
WHEN TO GO? All year; high Head south-east to the hot Latacunga
season Jun-Sep springs at Baños, situated in
a valley of waterfalls, bridges for
Due south of Quito, Ecuador’s bungee jumping and a thriving
volcano avenue begins. The first expat community. From here you
giant is Cotopaxi, near the towns can head east to the Oriente (see
of Machachi and Lasso. Haciendas p81), or turn south to Riobamba.
and lodges in and near the This chilly city gives access to
volcano’s national park ofer another relatively easily accessible Baños
accommodation, hiking and horse volcano, Chimborazo, and to the
riding. A bit further south, Devil’s Nose train ride, whose Chimborazo
Tungurahua
Latacunga is the starting point for switchbacks form the most famous
some excellent trekking, biking and section of the Quito-Guayaquil
horse-riding circuits around the railway. The Alausí to Sibambe
crater lake of Quilotoa and the stretch is only a short section of the Riobamba
surrounding villages (these can 450km line, but it’s undoubtedly
also be done by car or bus). On the one of the most spectacular 12km 0 10km
route is Saquisilí, whose Thursday of railway in the world. ⊳ To Alausí
DID YOU
KNOW?
Each region and town has its
typical dishes, and if you are
hungry, always choose the
soup – Ecuadorians make them
hearty. Today’s chefs are fusing
local ingredients and modern
trends for an adventurous new
cuisine. One crop, though, has
pioneered international fame:
cacao. Several cacao brands
have outlets ofering tastings
of the three regional varieties:
El Oro, Los Ríos and Manabí.
Tren Ecuador even has
a Tren de la Dulzura Plus,
Letting of steam
One of the world’s highest which calls at a cacao estate.
volcanoes at 5,897m,
Cotopaxi last erupted
in August 2015

SEE THE WILDLIFE, MEET THE PEOPLE
YOUR LOCAL EXPERTS IN THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS.
ACTIVE LAND-BASED TOURS
UNIQUE BIKING, SUP & MULTI-SPORT ADVENTURES
GALAKIWI.COM | [email protected] | +593 5 252 1770
Operating responsible Galapagos land tours since 2005.

Dome décor
The striking blue-and-white
tiled towers of Cuenca’s
New Cathedral; (bottom)
Ingapirca is Ecuador’s top
archaelogical site
CUENCA AND
⊳ 0 50km
To Alausí
Canar
Ingapirca
Cajas
National Park Cuenca
THE FAR SOUTH
Best for: culture, history, landscapes, wildlife
DURATION: 3–7 days position on the main ancient Incan

Saraguro ROUTE: Cuenca • Loja • road (Capaq Ñan). Cuenca lies at
Vilcabamba • Zamora the heart of a major area for craft
WHY GO? For the colonial city production, including ceramics,
of Cuenca and Ecuador’s main textiles, gold and silver, and is also
Loja Inca ruins, plus handicrafts and the centre of the Panama hat trade.
Zamora a healthy climate. Continue south for four hours, via
Podocarpus WHEN TO GO? All year; driest the indigenous town of Saraguro
Vilcabamba National Park months Jun to Sep and Nov where the local people are known
for their black dress, to Loja,
Beyond the avenue of the a major highland town, famous
volcanoes lies a region of for its musical traditions.
mountainous national parks such Ninety minutes further south is
as Cajas and Podocarpus and the Vilcabamba, once said to be home
beautiful southern city of Cuenca. to the longest-lived people in the
Much colonial architecture has world. True or not, the area has
been preserved in its centre, as well a lovely climate and ample scope
as the Pumapungo remains of an for walks and horse or bike rides
Incan and earlier Cañari settlement. in beautiful countryside. To the
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Alamy
But lying about two hours north is east of Loja, two hours over the
Ecuador’s top archaeological site, Podocarpus National Park, lies
Ingapirca, which features fine Zamora, the gateway to the
stonework situated in a strategic southern Oriente. ⊲

Pacific promenade
Guayaquil’s Malecón 2000
development; (bottom)
a surfer checks out the sea
at sunset in Montañita
THE PACIFIC
⊳
Esmeraldas
COAST Mompiche
Best for: landscapes, water sports, wildlife, cuisine

Otavalo
DURATION: 5–10 days requisite shops and nightlife. QUITO

ROUTE: Guayaquil • Puerto López Next is Puerto López and the
Alóag
• Canoa • Quito surrounding Machalilla National Canoa
Machachi
WHY GO? To see a diferent Park, where you’ll find hills, the
aspect of the country, with lively fabulous Los Frailes beach and Crucita Chone
Manta
traditions, laid-back surfers, trips out to Isla de la Plata, known
agro-industry, shrimp farms and as “the poor traveller’s Galápagos” Montecristi
Afro-Ecuadorian culture. for the similarity of some of its
Isla de
WHEN TO GO? All year; the best wildlife. Manabí province’s main La Plata
weather is Dec to Apr, though busy port is Manta and just a short way Puerto López
inland from there lies the Panama
Guayaquil is the country’s largest hat-making town of Montecristi.
Valdivia
port and business centre. The A few kilometres further east is the
city’s Malecón 2000 riverfront hang-gliding and kite-surfing spot Guayaquil
development is a revamped of Crucita, while across the Chone
promenade with gardens, estuary lies Canoa, a thriving resort 0 50km
restaurants, a handicraft market until it was decimated by the 2016 Playas

and Latin America’s largest Ferris earthquake. It’s rebuilding now and
wheel, La Perla. At its northern has yet another of Ecuador’s
end lies the bohemian Las Peñas wonderful beaches.
district, a reminder of how the From Chone the main road to the
city used to be. Sierra heads towards Aloag, near
West of here are Ecuador’s main Machachi (see p83), but if you wish
resorts, Playas and Salinas, but the to see more of the coast, continue
coast road soon heads north to from Canoa to Mompiche, another
lower-key destinations and a string surfers’ hangout, and on to
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Alamy
of fishing towns, including Valdivia, Esmeraldas (also reachable from

site of a culture dating back to Ibarra, north of Otavalo), whose
3,300 BC. Montañita has a perfect beaches are favoured by Quiteño
surfing beach and, in town, all the and Colombian holidaymakers.

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T
he wealth of the Inca taking in the greatest hits Elsewhere, the palm-lined Plaza keeping a keen ear pricked for
has long since found of this country. de Armas has been the capital’s rufles in the undergrowth and
its way into museums heart since the city was founded glimpses of tufted capuchins,
around the world, Welcome to the jungle by conquistador Francisco Pizarro yellow-spotted Amazon river
but Peru is still rich Begin your Peruvian adventure in in 1535, while fine museums boast turtles or spectacled caimans.
where it matters: culture and its capital, Lima. Fine architecture pre-Columbian pottery (Museo Return along jungle boardwalks
nature. Its landscapes morph and gastronomy has put it on Larco) and pre-Hispanic artefacts under the cover of darkness to
from sandy expanses and many travellers’ South American (National Museum of Archaeology). rediscover the rainforest at night,
pristine rainforest to cloud- bucket lists, but it has historic However, it’s not long before or take a star-lit boat ride
baiting peaks and lush valleys. surprises, too. Huacas (ruins) the jungle comes calling. Hop alongside riverbanks to spy
It’s no wonder parts of its old sprinkle the city, and one of its on a plane and head to Taricaya caiman and capybaras. Your stay
empires still survive here. most vital is Huaca Pucllana. Ecological Reserve, an untouched here will be green in more ways
Now, tour operator Tucan Travel Pre-dating the Inca, it was built slice of lush Amazon rainforest. than one, with opportunities to
is ofering you and a friend the 1,500 years ago as the central Wander past giant kapok trees, see the good work that the
chance to win a private trip temple to a lost urban complex. tropical shrubs and palms, reserve’s research and rescue
Dreamstime; iStock Photo
www.wanderlust.co.uk/competitions
COMPETITION
centres have done in preserving an example of a surviving Inca peaks. It is undoubtedly one of
the local landscape and wildlife. village, flanked by two spectacular travel’s classic sights, and more How to win
ruins and veined with labyrinthine than lives up to its billing. Tucan Travel is ofering the
Tread Inca footsteps cobblestone passageways that chance to win a private
The Inca Empire may have died still buzz with locals today. A trip to remember ten-day tour to Peru for two
out centuries ago, but its legacy All that’s left is to wind your way people, including flights and
lives on across Peru. Nowhere is Valley dreams back through the spectacular trips to Lima, the Amazon
this better demonstrated than in Even though the Sacred Valley is Sacred Valley aboard PeruRail’s jungle, Cusco, a private
the nation’s ancient capital of ripe with Inca relics, travellers still VistaDome train; its panoramic two-day trek covering a
Cusco. Here, every street is laced find themselves yearning for the windowed carriages whizzing past portion of the Inca Trail,
with crumbling Inca doorways blue-ribbon experience: the Inca the very ruins, lush landscapes a Machu Picchu tour and
and walls propping up more Trail. Head out on a path that has and rugged wilds that you’ve tickets for the VistaDome
modern dwellings, while the city’s fired travellers’ imaginations for explored over the past few days. train. For a chance to win,
ornate cathedrals dovetail with generations (and which only a few As well as the guides and porters just answer the following:
the temples that still remain. at a time can stroll), a private that will accompany you on the
Viewpoints, known as miradors, two-day trek that unfurls more and tour, you’ll have the expert In what year was Machu
pop up across the city, ofering more of the Inca’s treasures the knowledge of Tucan Travel’s Picchu discovered by
urban panoramas of Cusco’s further you tread. Ruins pock the tailor-made tour department to Hiram Bingham?
skyline and the Andes beyond. slopes, mountainscapes, hand. Tucan Travel have been a) 1895; b) 1901; c) 1911
Speaking of epic mountains, thundering Urubamba River operating tours in South America
To enter and for full terms & conditions
Cusco serves as the gateway and cloud forests, but keep your for over 31 years and they are the
and data policies, please go to
to the Inca heartlands, commonly eyes peeled above you, too, for experts in small group and wanderlust.co.uk/competitions or
referred to as the Sacred Valley. condors swooping overhead. tailor-made adventures. Their trips send your answer to the Wanderlust
ofice (address p3); state ‘more info’ if
Here, colonial towns and hillside While every wall and building to Peru are fine examples of this, you want to be contacted by
villages speckle the surrounding you pass is a pointer for your final uncovering a unique culture that is Wanderlust or its sponsors. The
closing date is 14 November 2018.
landscape, with the ancient Inca destination, nothing quite prepares threaded through the country’s
citadels of Pisac, Ollantaytambo you for your first glimpse of the wealth of landscapes. They’ll
and Chinchero serve as this wild mighty Machu Picchu, a hill- ensure that you are mirroring the
region’s headlining acts. perched citadel perfectly footprint of an Inca, enriching your
Ollantaytambo in particular is hemmed in by forested Andean experience every step of the way.
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cost 7p per minute plus network extras. Travel Photo of the Year photo courtesy of Vittorio Ricci, finalist in the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year competition.
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25 YEARS OF TRAVEL
HAPPY 25TH
BIRTHDAY,
WANDERLUST
In 1993,
Paul Morrison and
Lyn Hughes printed
the first ever edition
of Wanderlust. Over
the following pages
we celebrate
a quarter of a century
of travel highs
WORDS LYN HUGHES & TOBY SKINNER
»
12 camel covers Every Wanderlust front page, dissected p96
“Travel is my real world” A tribute to co-founder Paul Morrison p98
Gorillas that I missed When travel-writing assignments go wrong p101
137,000 photos laters… Wanderlust by numbers p103
“I’d never thought to work in travel” How Wanderlust changed lives p104
Remember these? How travel has changed in a quarter of a century p106
“A day return to space, please” Predicting the next 25 years in travel p108
Alamy
25 YEARS OF WANDERLUST
25YEARS
OF COVERS
Over the years, Wanderlust covers have featured
many a camel and Buddhist monk, and inspired
a multitude of trips. Here’s nearly every one…
25 years of Wanderlust
Nov 1993 Apr 1994 Jan 1995
Lyn Hughes and Paul The third issue of A stray kitten turns up at
Morrison launch the first Wanderlust is the first Wanderlust’s back door.
issue of Wanderlust, to sell out, with the Jasper, named after
costing £2, with a print magazine now on the contributor Jasper Winn,
run of 5,000. Paul is the shelves at WHSmith. becomes the office cat.
publisher and Lyn the She turns out to be
editor, though Paul also female, but the
writes and takes photos. name sticks.

25th ANNIVERSARY
Wanderlust Issue
SPECIAL EDITION
191 (November
25TH ANNIVER 2018)
THE ORIGINAL TRAVEL
WIN! MAGAZINE
SARY SPECIAL
MOROCCO,
PERU + MORE
EDITION • Life-chan
£21,000
What makes a 25
travel + Galápago ging

travel
ideas to
s & Ecuador
CHANGE
+ Canada + Australia
Wanderlust cover? YOUR LIFE
+ Pocket guides:
Tromso,
From epic adventur
to doorstep discoveres
Luang Prabang,
ies
Cornwall
GALÁPAGOS & ECUAD
Amazon Andes & OR SEARCHING FOR
unique wildlife SPIRIT BEARS N vember 2018
wande lu t co uk
In Br tish Columbia’s £4 50
hidden forests
W
hen Wanderlust was first launched, a lot
of people asked why anyone would buy
a travel magazine when they could get
a holiday brochure for free. Now, 25 years
later, with adventure travel journalism
firmly a part of mainstream media, that isn’t even an issue.
But from the start, it was important to us that our covers
were about real, off-the-beaten-track travel, not ‘holidays’.
With so many more people into the Wanderlust style of travel
these days, we really only have to look for one thing in a cover:
does it make us want to be there?
We’ve definitely had certain perennial covers over the years
that we know are popular. People tend to like monks and they
also like classic icons, especially Angkor Wat, Machu Picchu and
the Taj Mahal, hence its return as our 25th anniversary cover.
Wanderlust covers, by continent

Antarctica 2% 11 Wanderlust
covers have
Oceania 4% featured
North America 6% Buddhist monks
Europe 6%
41% Asia
22% Africa
19% South and
Central America
Wanderlust covers, by main subject
Seascape 15%
Wildlife 16% Five Wanderlust

covers have
featured
Namibia
People 34%
Alamy; Shutterstock
Landscape 35%
More Wanderlust cover facts
6
Nov 1995 Spring 1996
The second anniversary Wanderlust moves
issue has 88 pages and
readers from 73
countries. New features
to Eton, with views of
Windsor Castle and
a friendly ghost, after the
26 6 12 6 12
covers have have have
include beginner’s council complains Lyn
featured have featured featured have
guides and job ads for and Paul are running traditional- featured sunrises/ the Taj featured
tour companies. a business from home. style boats elephants Mahal camels
sunsets

IN THE
BEGINNING...
Editor-in-chief Lyn Hughes recalls the start of Wanderlust, and pays
tribute to her husband and magazine co-founder Paul Morrison
I
met Paul in 1987 when we planning to spend six months bought a notebook in Quito and
were both working for the exploring South America. We were started scheming in earnest.
Mars corporation. Travel travelling light, had nothing to read,
was our joint passion, and and there was certainly no inflight First steps
we gave up our careers to entertainment on Viasa, an airline When we got back to the UK, the
Clockwise from top left
freelance as consultants, that has long since bitten the dust. only problem was that we knew Lyn and Paul in the
allowing us the flexibility We started talking about how nothing about publishing – unless Galápagos Islands on the
to travel. But each time we came nice it would be to have a magazine you counted the fact that, as a child, trip where the idea for
Wanderlust was born;
back from a trip, we found it harder all about travel, borrowing a pen to Paul had proudly produced a single when life gives you
and harder to return to corporate jot our ideas down on a sick bag. magazine called ‘Super Budgie’. But, lemons, make lemonade
life. “You’re back to the real world,” Paul immediately came up with despite many industry ‘experts’ or go to a citrus orchard;
Paul takes a break on
people would say. “No, travel is my the name of our dream magazine; telling us a travel magazine would ‘Snoozy Suzie’, the VW
real world,” Paul would retort. as he often said, “Once you’ve got never succeed, we threw ourselves Bug that the pair drove
The idea for Wanderlust came wanderlust in your blood, you’ve got into learning everything we could. across New Zealand until
the head gasket blew; Lyn
about in November 1992 when Paul it for life.” Eventually we said to each We bought an Apple Mac, turned the in her spiritual home – the
and I were on a flight to Ecuador, other: “We could do this.” So, we spare bedroom into an oice and vineyards of Australia
25 years of Wander ust

Apr 1997 Feb 199 Summer 1998
The magazine runs its The magazin The magazine hires
first Travel Photo of the writing com its first full-time staf:
Year competition, won by won by barr editorial assistant Matt
Paul Gallagher’s ‘Tibetan Gimlette, wh Rudd and sales executive
Buddhist Monks’. become a ce Ellen Wifen.
travel writer

recruited neighbours to proofread, Wanderlust, feeling there was still

copy-type and set ads. We found so much more we wanted to achieve
our first contributors, including with the magazine ourselves.
legendary book publisher Hilary Paul had so much energy, and was
Bradt and Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth so full of life that it was a complete
(who has featured in every issue) at shock when he was first diagnosed
an independent travel event at the with cancer in early 2001. But being
Royal Geographical Society. Paul, he picked himself up and
We launched at the end of showed the same determination,
November 1993. WHSmith wouldn’t bloodymindedness and optimism as
stock us, but we weren’t daunted. when we launched Wanderlust. He
The print run was 5,000. Several refused to let the cancer dominate PAUL’S
bookshops were going to sell us, and his life, and never complained of WORK
we already had 2,000 subscribers shortlisted for many writing prizes. pain or side-effects. Most of his Over the years,
signed up. We were away. Not that the kudos meant much contacts had little inkling that Paul became
We had decided that Paul, as to him. Travel was his big passion, anything was wrong. If willpower a fantastic writer
publisher, would be responsible for and the words and photos were alone could have licked the cancer, and photographer,
the business side of the magazine, his way of communicating that. he’d still be with us now. even if others rated
while I would be in charge of the I was inundated with messages his work more
content. However, our roles Paul’s legacy after his death in 2004. Time and highly than he ever
inevitably overlapped, and Paul was For many years we worked from again people highlighted his did. He took this
phenomenal at what he took on. home, with help from part-time honesty, intelligence, lack of beautiful shot during
Looking at the first issue, not only staff and neighbours. It was a hard pretension and sense of fun. In a sandstorm on a
did Paul sell all the advertising, but slog, with Paul and I working crazy business he was a tough negotiator, camel trek out of
Zagora in Morocco.
he did all the design and wrote and hours for little money. Paul always and expected high standards, but he
It initially appeared
photographed four of the articles. found the stamina to keep going, was always ethical, with no time for
on the cover of
Paul was modest about his writing sometimes working through the bullshitters or bullies. Many people
Issue 35 in August
and photography skills, often night. Never materialistic, it was also commented on what a gentle
1999. It’s the only
claiming he only did his bit to save more important to him to succeed and kind person he was – generous
image that has ever
money. But he was doing himself with the magazine than to live with his time, advice and what been used twice
a disservice. As well as being a comfortable lifestyle. In 2003, money he had. He was witty and on a Wanderlust
shortlisted four times for publisher despite his illness, we cheerfully loved life, always looking forward. cover: we printed it
of the year awards, he was turned down a seven-figure sum for Most of all, he was the perfect again for Issue 69
travel companion, with boundless (February 2005),
enthusiasm and curiosity. In cities, which was the first
he would resent going to bed, often issue published after
being the last to leave a restaurant Paul lost his long
or bar, while in the countryside he battle with cancer.
would jump out of bed before dawn
to go looking for wildlife. Often
a little shy in social situations at
home, when he was away he would
talk to anyone and everyone,
making lifelong friends in the
process. As he would say, “I always
come alive when I travel.”
Sept 1999 Oct 2001 Feb 2002 Feb 2003

Wanderlust launches Wanderlust publishes The 50th issue, The magazine is
its first Travel Awards, its first book, Visions ‘The World’s Ultimate redesigned, with new
hosted by broadcaster of Wanderlust, based Top 50’, becomes the contributors including
Andy Kershaw, with New on five years of the best-selling issue ever. columnist Chris Stewart,
Zealand winning ‘Best Photo of the Year author of best-seller
Country’ and Cuzco competition. Driving Over Lemons.
‘Best City’.

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Terminal 1
‘Gorillas that I missed’, Lyn’s epic fails

and other misadventures Editor-in-chief Lyn Hughes
lists her greatest mishaps
during 25 years at the helm
On Wanderlust assignments, things don’t always go
exactly to plan. Here, contributors share some of the
most memorable times when it all went wrong
ALBANIAN DOG ATTACKS MISSING THE GORILLAS
“On my first assignment for “My very first assignment

Wanderlust, in Albania, I was for Wanderlust was to Lopé
determined to go the extra National Park in Gabon,
mile – and quite literally did where I hoped to impress
when my group didn’t want with eloquent descriptions of Kyrgyzstan clothing calamity
to walk to the old outpost at the top of the my lowland gorilla encounters. Things didn’t I had no time to pack for my trip
mountain col. The guide sent me of on my go well from the start. It rained solidly for to Kyrgyzstan but saw online that
own and I nearly got attacked by a bear- a week, and I had so many cuts from razor Bishkek was swelteringly hot, so
guarding shepherd dog – rescued only by grass that it looked like I was self-harming. bought a bunch of T-shirts at the
a six-year-old boy holding him back and I didn’t see a single gorilla, and returned irport. Heading above the
speaking to me in Albanian. I thought home only to be hospitalised with malari snowline, I realised this to
I would never live to tell the tale…” for four days. The magazine’s headline, be a mistake, and also that
Phoebe Smith ‘Gorillas that I missed’, said everything.” I’d lost my only long-sleeved
Mark Stratton shirt. The solution? Urgently
FOOD POISONING… grab the guide’s fleece and
IN LOTS OF PLACES GETTING BANNED do lots of star-jumps.
FROM AZERBAIJAN
“I still remember fondly the Sausage sufering
time I had food poisoning on “It wasn’t just the wildlife trips that Wandering around with a wild boar
a train across Azerbaijan, as backfired. An assignment to Armenia fo sausage in my pocket in Macedonia
well as the time I had food Wanderlust back in 2011 led to me being (don’t ask!), I attracted a large dog that
poisoning after a tepid bufet banned from a country for the first time bit my hand. Cue a saga of infected
in Kaliningrad, and the time in my life. But it wasn’t Armenia who wounds and rabies treatments.
I had food poisoning on the boat out of Siem banned me. I’d written a very even-
Reap. These days, I mainly go camping in handed story about a disputed territory fari setback
Devon – though that’s just because kids and between Armenia and Azerbaijan called n a visit to Zambia’s Luangwa
airports are a terrible combination – and Nagorno-Karabakh. Sadly, the Azeris too Valley, I jumped out of the
I read Wanderlust with envy… and relief. exception to the story and I was duly 4WD to photograph an
Twenty-five years and still new places to labelled an ‘undesirable element’. I still elephant. The only problem
discover, and new places to avoid salad.” hope to make it to Azerbaijan one day!” was that the vehicle hadn’t
Matt Rudd Mark Stratton stopped. Result: torn rotator.
Dec 2004 Nov 2005 Oct 2006
Magazine The magazine celebrates The winners of the first Paul
co-founder Paul its 75th issue with Morrison Guide Award, to
Morrison passes a ‘Seven Wonders of the celebrate unsung heroes of the
away after a long World’ theme; 3,500 travel world, are announced.
fight with cancer. readers vote for their With the judges headed by Bill
favourite wonder, with Bryson, Zambian guide Manda
Machu Picchu beating Chisanga and Nepalese guide
Shutterstock
Angkor Wat to top spot. KC Bhuwan share gold.

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3
25 YEARS IN NUMBERS
4,800
guides
nominated in the World Guide
137,000 Awards, including this year’s Gold

winner, Dragoman overlanding guru
PHOTOS Julie Gabbott (see page 112).
136 su b sc r i be r s
submitted to the Wanderlust Photo of the Year
competition, including this winning shot in the
us since the
2017 Landscape category, taken by Callie Chee who have been with
anette West.
first issue, including Je
at China’s Yellow Mountain.
25th ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL EDITION
£137,000
7 4 spent by winning guides on

THE ORIGINAL TRAVEL MAGAZINE
WIN!
community projects. These include MOROCCO,
PERU + MORE
£21,000
Asia tour leader Mark Steadman’s

25
Lone Bufalo, a community initiative travel
he co-founded in Laos to provide ideas to
OFFICE English tuition to young people in
one of the world’s most heavily
CHANGE
YOUR LIFE
PETS bombed provinces.
YOUR GUIDE TO
From epic adventures
to doorstep discoveries
The number of times that the man

November 20 8 wanderlust co uk £4 50
GALÁPAGOS & ECUADOR SEARCHING FOR SPIRIT BEARS
Amazon, Andes & unique wildlife In British Columbia’s hidden forests
voted Wanderlust readers’ top travel

companion – Michael Palin
– has been interviewed.
ISSUE 191
188 pages,
496,981
visitors to Wanderlust.co.uk
Jetta, Jasper and Gypsy the cats all
48 countries
covered
preceded Zoe the dog, the reigning
in August 2018. in-house office pet (pictured).
May 2006 Nov 2008 Nov 2009
Wanderlust is Wanderlust’s 100th issue The economy went over a clif.
named ‘Independent and 15th anniversary We report that Brits are turning
Publishing Company coincide, and are to comfort food, with Uruguay’s
Alamy; Callie Chee
of the Year’ at the celebrated with old Fray Bentos factory – later
PPA Independent a legendary party made a UNESCO site – resuming
Publisher Awards. at Eton College. sales of corned beef to the UK.

WANDERLUST
CHANGED
MY LIFE...
More than a magazine, Wanderlust is really
about the people it unites. Here, readers and
contributors explain the ways it has inspired
and altered their lives
IT MADE ME A TRAVEL AUTHOR
Travel writer David Kitching
“I have been a subscriber to Wanderlust
IT TURNED ME INTO A WRITER for the last 25 years, and it has inspired
my wife and I to visit some amazing
Travel journalist Helen Moat
places. Our first big trip lasted 13 months,
“Contributing to the and we returned in such a positive state of
community web page, mind that, rather than being unemployable, our careers
blogging for Wanderlust, prospered. We still travel extensively, and I’ve recently
and now writing for the main been inspired to publish two travel books on Amazon,
website has helped me find Running with the Bulls (about a round-the-world trip) and
my calling – as a Bradt Travel Guides writer, Laughing with Llamas (about Peru and South America).
regular travel freelancer and champion of “Wanderlust continues to be a source of ideas to us
Slow Travel. So, thanks for that.” both and, unusually, it seems to have retained its original
spark as it reaches its silver anniversary milestone.”
IT MADE ME REALISE MY CALLING

Travel photographer/writer Lisa Young
“I’d been living abroad for years, but had never
considered a career as a travel writer or photographer
– until, not long after I returned from a year in Nepal,
I entered my image (pictured left) in the Wanderlust Photo
of the Year competition. Because of the kind words from
you guys when I was highly commended for the prize, I decided to keep
going in photography, come hell or high water. Now, I’ve contributed my
images and words to countless other magazines and newspapers, too.
Thanks for the encouragement back then to keep following the dream.”
Mar 2010 Feb 2011
Simon Reeve reports To cheer us all up from
from an of-limits Burma a still-gloomy economy and
for us (and the BBC), a miserable winter, we run
having snuck in by zipline a ‘Happy’ issue, which
across a river from includes a look at the
north-east India. world’s happiest places.

IT GOT ME INTO THE HILLS
Action woman Pippa-Rosy Steffell
“Wanderlust is the most inspirational reading
and has honestly helped me find my true
Alamy; Shutterstock; BBC Films; Lisa Young
passion for travel and hiking. Since I started

reading, I’ve trekked the Laugavegur Trail
in southern Iceland and done the Jurassic
Coast Challenge, walking 100km from Poole to Bridport
overnight. This September, I’m doing the Chiltern 50
Challenge, a 50km walk, and next year I’m planning to climb
Kilimanjaro, as well as doing the Three Peaks, Peak District
and Cotswold Way Challenges. It’s kept me busy.”
IT GOT ME TO BHUTAN
Enlightened trekker Kasia Nowak
“In 2010, I entered the Wanderlust Photo
of the Year competition and was highly
commended in the landscape category.
That didn’t change my life in itself – what
did change was receiving a goodie bag
containing the February 2011 issue. It featured a story on
the newly opened Merak Sakteng Trek in the rarely visited
eastern part of Bhutan. I found the cover photo of red-robed
monks irresistibly enchanting, and thought the concept of
Gross National Happiness utterly fascinating.
“Six months later, I booked my trip of a lifetime – IT MADE MY BUCKET LIST UNMANAGEABLE
traversing Bhutan from west to east, with the Merak
Prolific traveller Brenda Boulton
Sakteng Trek thrown in. The tour involved plenty of high-
altitude roads, trekking, local people and their horses. “I remember that first issue of Wanderlust as a lightbulb
Seeing how people lived there changed my attitude to moment. Here was a magazine directed at those of us with
so many aspects of my own existence, allowing me to dreams of travel, showing us how to make those dreams
distinguish between what I want and what I need. When come true. I’ve camped around Africa, Canada, Alaska,
I think of myself as I was, I can hardly recognise that person. South America and the USA. I’ve hiked around New Zealand,
The article was entitled ‘Footpaths to Enlightenment’, Australia and Europe. My one issue with Wanderlust is that
which is exactly what it felt like to me.” my bucket list gets longer, not shorter.”
Oct 2011 Mar 2012

We channel Lawrence of In the Reader Travel Awards,
Arabia and take a bunch Luang Prabang in Laos wins
of readers who are into ‘Top City’ for the third time in
travel writing and a row and throws a parade to
photography on celebrate the achievement.
assignment to Petra and Japan wins ‘Top Country’ for the
Wadi Rum to research and first time, and Sudan is crowned
photograph a feature. ‘Top Emerging Destination’.

Wanderlust editor-in-chief Lyn Hughes looks back to an era
of faxed itineraries and poste restante services, pondering
just how much travel has changed over the past 25 years
S
omeone recently Of course, plenty of people were fans. Bradt guides were not n arly
said to me that doing adventurous travel, but it as well known, but would get in first
“Travel has finally just wasn’t commonplace. So if on truly unusual destinations. Most
caught up with you met like-minded folk, it was iconic of all, though, was Footprint’s
Wanderlust”. And, as if you’d found your tribe. As South American Handbook.
yes, in a way they a ‘traveller’ you really felt you were Most travel agents only offered
were completely part of an exclusive club. mainstream holidays, but I had
right. In the early 1990s, holidays In 1993, the World Wide Web was come across Trailfinders in the Clockwise from top left
meant fly and flop, often in the something you’d probably heard of 1980s, and it was a revelation, Cuba’s vintage vehicles
serve up a bottomless
Spanish Costas. If you came back but had little idea of what it really offering expert inspiration and well of travel nostalgia;
without a tan, people would look was. Travel information was hard to advice. Alternatively, if you wanted Wanderlust founders Lyn
puzzled. If you mentioned you were come by, and so guidebooks were to travel with a tour company, there and Paul in Sydney and
horseback riding; some
going to Sumatra, you’d be met a necessity. Lonely Planet and were plenty of small specialists out forms of travel never
with balement. Rough Guides each had their loyal there offering exciting ‘adventure’ seem to change
Mar 2013 Dec 2013 Apr 2014
Lyn Hughes visits the Wanderlust wins We introduce a ‘Top UK
Kurdistan region of Iraq ‘Consumer Magazine Destination’ category
and finds welcoming of the Year’ at the into our Reader Travel
and tolerant people, PPA Independent Awards and the Lake
fascinating Yazidi culture Publisher Awards. District romps away with
and optimism about the prize, while Simon
the future. No one Reeve wins ‘Top TV Series’
was foreseeing the for the third year in a row.
events of 2014.

Once there, we had to book a call

back to the tour company, but by
the time we were put through,
THEN vs NOW
several hours later, the oice had
1993-2018
closed for the day. Hey ho.
Flash forward 25 years, and we’re FLYIN
all uber-connected and our friends
and family may be scanning social
media to see what we’re up to. We
have detailed itineraries and so
much data at our fingertips that the Paper tickets,
challenge can be wading through sent in the post E-tickets
the mass of misinformation to find
the useful and accurate stuff.
The number of travel companies
tours – the only challenge was offering both group tours and tailor-
finding out about them. made trips has exploded, and the Smoking on No smoking on
With no email, text or social experiences that they offer are planes planes
media, if you were going away for increasingly imaginative. People
less than a month, it was taken for have got more adventurous, too
granted that you wouldn’t keep – even your next-door neighbour COMMUNICATIONS
in touch with home. If going on is probably considering Vietnam
a longer trip, you would use poste or Peru for their next escape.
restante. This service, which still So, has the explosion in travel
exists today, involved you telling made it less rewarding? The simple
your loved ones which cities or answer is no. For anyone with
major towns you would be passing a curious mind there is always Fax Email
through, and roughly when. They somewhere new to discover.
could then send post to you at the More places are becoming
main general post oice for that accessible, opening up even greater
destination. The anticipation was opportunities, and there are still
huge, and you’d commonly make countless hidden secrets to uncover.
the post oice the first stop when Postcard Instagram
arriving in a city. You would then
go through a roller coaster of
GEAR
?
emotions: homesickness, joy or
the crashing disappointment of
having nothing waiting for you.
Travel explosion Err, what did

Even in 1997, when we did a trip Swiss Army we use those
to Albania for Wanderlust that Knife for anyway?
was arranged through a reputable
British travel company, the itinerary
was faxed through to us the day
before we left, and omitted vital
information about a transfer.
Travel alarm Smartphone

clock
Dec 2015
Having been asked for years
for our top tips on up and
coming ‘cool’ places to go, we
finally succumb and publish
our first annual Hot List,
tipping St Helena, Indonesia
and Northern Ireland among
Shutterstock
Walkman Tablet
our 21 places to visit in 2016.

THE NEXT 25
YEARS OF TRAVEL
What’s in store for travellers over the next quarter of MEET THE EXPE RT
Dr Ian Yeoman is the
a century? Dr Ian Yeoman, one of the world’s top travel author of the New
futurists, ofers his predictions Zealand government
report 2050 –
Tomorrow’s Tourism,
and is a pioneering
futurist in the travel
sector. A senior
academic researcher
at Victoria University
in Wellington, New
Zealand, he is also
a visiting professor at
the European Tourism
Futures Institute in
Alamy; Shutterstock; Virgin Galactic; Hurtigruten

the Netherlands.
Space will be the ultimate passport stamp
“In 25 years, the really adventurous travel destination will be space,” says Dr Yeoman. “By then, companies
like Virgin Galactic will be ofering suborbital day trips, and the view of the Earth’s curvature will be the
ultimate shot for travel one-upmanship. It will still be very expensive, but it won’t just be for the super-rich.”
ALMOST EVERYONE WILL BE

ABLE TO CLIMB KILIMANJARO The world will get
smaller and hotter
Switzerland is already heavily promoting
e-bike tours through the mountains – “Supersonic and maybe even
and it’s a trend that Dr Yeoman sees hypersonic planes will make
continuing. “Generally, adventure will get New Zealand a weekend
easier,” he says. “There will be more destination from the UK or
e-bike routes like those in Switzerland, Europe,” says Dr Yeoman.
but there will also be more extreme “Plus, climate change will
developments. With so much work being make cooler climates more
done on exoskeletons, in 25 years the attractive, and people will
unfit or even infirm will be able to want more natural escapes,”
compete in a desert ultramarathon so prepare for crowds.
or climb Mount Kilimanjaro.”
May 2016 Apr 2017
We feature ‘18 travel books that changed our In the Reader Travel
world’, with Michael Palin suggesting Venice Awards, Singapore’s
by Jan Morris, describing it as “mouth- Changi Airport wins ‘Top
watering travel writing”. Meanwhile, Bill Worldwide Airport’ – as
Bryson goes for Redmond O’Hanlon’s In it has every single year
Trouble Again, declaring it’s “quite brilliant”. – while New Zealand
takes ‘Top Country’
and Kyoto ‘Top City’.

Travel will be less

guilt-inducing
The move towards electric
planes and ships is already
afoot, with the likes of Airbus
and Boeing-backed Zunum
Aero working on hybrid
fuel-electric planes that they CHINA WILL KEEP RISING
hope will be flying by 2020.
Cruises are even further “China will become an all-rounder destination, a little like America is today,” says
ahead, with Norway’s Dr Yeoman. “With the rise of the middle class, I think we’ll see a lot more sophisticated
Hurtigruten ferry company
adventure tourism there, and in 25 years China could be the New World when it comes
due to launch a hybrid cruise
ship in early 2019. to wine. “There will also be a huge rise in outbound independent Chinese travellers,”
he adds, so expect sought-after experiences to become even more competitive.
And we’ll still be

Tours will be reading Wanderlust
A lot will emerge in the next 25
increasingly niche years, from automated cars to
“Niche tourism is already growing,” says Dr AI and smart lenses that will do
Yeoman. “You just have to look at cyclists everything current smartphones
following the Tour de France route, or can do and more. But Dr Yeoman
companies like Craft Cruises, which ofer says quality information will still
knitting voyages. That will only accelerate, be important. “Robots still won’t
and I see specialist photography tours as be able to provide interesting,
a big growth area, as cameras become informative and entertaining
more and more sophisticated and there are content like humans can,” he says.
more and more photography hobbyists. “And print won’t die – because the
A century ago, people went to Africa to digital world can’t match the
shoot animals with guns; now and going experience of holding a real
forward, we’ll shoot them with cameras.” thing in your hands.”
25th ANNIVERSARY SPE

Wanderlust Issue
CIAL EDITION
Sep 2017 Autumn 2018

191 (November 2018)
HAVE YOUR SAY

25TH ANNIVERS
Wanderlust’s website We celebrate 25 years WIN!

THE ORIGINAL TRAVEL
MAGAZ NE
Now we want to hear

ARY SPECIAL EDITION
MOROCCO,
gets a total redesign, of Wanderlust with a new

PERU + MORE
£21,000
from you, our readers.

• Life-changing travel
leading to a 100% look and our biggest 25

travel Let us know your
+ Galápagos & Ecuador
increase in traffic as ever issue! ideas to

readers vote with CHANGE Wanderlust memories
+ Canada + Australia
their fingers. YOUR LIFE at fromtheroad@

+ Pocket guides:
From epic adventure

wanderlust.co.uk
Tromso, Luang
to doorstep discoveriess
Praba
YOUR GU DE TO
GALÁPAGOS & ECUAD

OR SEARCHING FOR SPIRIT
Amazon Andes & unique
w ldlife BEARS November 2018 wande
lust o uk £4 50
In Br tish Columb a’s h
dden forests

SEVEN TRIPS TO SEVEN
IN!
WONDERS WORTH £15,0OO
W
ho says there In short: you do! Visiting your own personal list of marvels on merits a place in anyone’s top
should only personal bucket list of the world’s the interactive website. The lucky seven sights. Other big hitters
be seven great icons is something we all winner will get the chance to visit include Jordan’s labyrinthine
wonders of dream of. Now Exodus Travels each one of their chosen wonders. rose-red city of Petra, or perhaps
the world? is ofering you the chance to not It’s an unmissable opportunity. So, the Great Wall of China, stretching
There’s no denying that landmarks only sit down and name your own to help you pick, we’ve put together thousands of kilometres. But
such as the Great Pyramid at personal Seven Wonders, but a selection of suggestions to help there are also less famous options
Giza are among humanity’s also win a trip to each and every you on your way… to consider: Bhutan’s rock-
crowning achievements. But one of them – that’s seven trips of clinging Paro Taktsang Monastery
our planet is bursting with so a lifetime spread over seven years! Culture & wildlife temple, perhaps, or the step
many amazing landmarks, old To be in with a chance of winning What better place to start than with pyramids of Mexico’s remarkable
and new, just waiting to be this prize, visit Exodus Travels’ My the Taj Mahal – India’s great marble Maya city of Chichen Itza?
explored, but who gets to choose 7 World Wonders website (www. paean to love. Seeing its walls turn But you can celebrate natural
the new wonders? exodus.co.uk/my7) and pick your from pink to ivory-white at sunrise wonders as well, and there’s
iStock Photo; Paul Goldstein; Shutterstock
www.wanderlust.co.uk/competitions
certainly no shortage of those. bays of the Dalmatian coastline to
Spying the Great Migration in the UNESCO city of Dubrovnik is How to win
Kenya or canoeing the dense one of Europe’s greatest wonders. To be in with a chance of
jungles of the Amazon are just as Whatever you choose, whether winning all you have to do is
worthy of inclusion as any ancient cycling an ancient ruin under head to Exodus Travels’
ruin. What could be more iconic a dappled afternoon sky, hiking My 7 World Wonders website
than encountering a Bengal tiger a natural wonder or lying in wait at www.exodus.co.uk/my7
in India or looking for sloths in the for a wild encounter in the African and select your personal
cloud forests of Costa Rica – a ancient history and follow in the plains, this is a once-in-a-lifetime seven wonders of the world
setting to raise goosebumps on the footsteps of centuries past on the chance. Don’t be left wondering… with Exodus Travels on its
necks of any travellers? Then there’s classic Inca Trail, walking through interactive website – there
the Galápagos Islands. Surely the the Andes to remote Machu The wonders of Exodus are 25 wonders to choose
archipelago that inspired Charles Picchu – a journey enhanced by For over 44 years, Exodus Travels from – and create your
Darwin’s theory of evolution the dancing, food and colourful has been dedicated to creating ultimate wish list. Once
deserves ‘wonder’ status? costumes of Cuzco’s indigenous unforgettable trips to the most you’ve made your selection,
Inti Raymi winter solstice festival. iconic places on Earth. And with you’ll be entered into the
Walking & cycling Closer to home, there’s the over 600-plus itineraries across competition – to win the
Sometimes greatness lies in the network of paths linking the Alpine 100 countries to choose from, chance to visit each and
challenge. What about Mount valleys around Mont Blanc or the there is plenty of scope for picking every one of your selections
Everest, and trekking to its Himalaya views, food and history you’ll your next amazing adventure. on seven trips of a lifetime
base camp? Or you could encounter hiking along Italy’s Bringing travellers into contact over seven years.
combine natural splendour with Amalfi Coast. And those who with new places and experiences
To enter and for full terms & conditions
prefer two wheels over two legs in the company of award-winning
and data policies, please go to
will likely be drawn to a diferent local leaders is what they do best www.exodus.co.uk/my7. The closing
range of destinations. Cambodia’s – and as such have been named date is 15 December 2018.
huge 12th-century Angkor Wat a named Which? Recommended

temple complex is even more Provider, with a customer score of
mind-blowing when explored by 90% – and there’s no limit to where
bicycle. Meanwhile, riding past the you can go. After all, not everyone’s
crystal-clear waters and pebble Seven Wonders are the same…
For more info and to enter the competition, visit www.exodus.co.uk/my7

THE
WORLD’S
BEST
GUIDES
The incredible, unsung, kind heroes of
travel – that’s who the Wanderlust World
Guide Awards celebrates. Lyn Hughes
introduces 2018’s deserving winners…
J
udging the Wanderlust World Guide Awards
is a bittersweet challenge. It’s a joy because
the judges and I are always blown away by
the wonderful testimonials sent in by you
and the guides’ colleagues. But it’s also very
dificult because choosing winners from that
star-studded shortlist is almost impossible.
I spend hours reading your impassioned,
inspirational anecdotes – often with a tear in my eye.
Even now, in the 13th year of the awards, the job never
gets easier, but it is always a privilege to honour the
people who go out of their way to make your adventures
unforgettable. In addition to the Bronze, Silver and Gold
awards, we have introduced three ‘Special Awards’ to mark
the 25th anniversary of Wanderlust: a commendation for
the top safari guide, conservation guide and UK guide.
I established the World Guide Awards after the death of
Wanderlust co-founder (and my late husband) Paul Morrison
in 2004. He championed the importance of great guides,
so I wanted to create something fitting in his memory –
and I am sure that he would have been as enthusiastic
about this year’s finalists as we are.
We announced the results at London’s Royal Geographical
Society on 4 October, joined by the guides themselves as well
as hundreds of their supporters. It was, as always, a joyous and
emotional evening – but if you couldn’t make it on the night,
you can meet all of the winners right here on these pages.
We think they’re amazing, and we’re sure you will too.
How the winners were chosen…

We asked you to nominate your favourite guides, and you sent
over 4,000 recommendations – a record-breaking year. We
narrowed down these nominations to a shortlist of ten before
inviting further testimonials from their clients and colleagues.
The judging panel then decided who’d win Gold, a £5,000
bursary; Silver, £2,500; and Bronze, £1,000. The bursaries
were kindly donated by Craghoppers (craghoppers.com).

Keep on truckin’
Gold award winner Julie (pictured
here in action) originally joined
Dragoman in 2013, and has since
led overlanding trips across
South America, India, China, the
Silk Road and – most recently –
Africa. “I have never met a guide
who puts in as much efort as her,”
wrote one of Julie’s past clients.
“There is nobody I would trust
more in a tricky situation in
a far-flung part of the world.”
Gold Award
Julie Gabbott What you said
“The best guide I have encountered
Where she guides: Worldwide in 40 years of adventure travel.”
Booked through: Dragoman “I am deaf, so travelling can be
(dragoman.co.uk) dificult. But Julie always spoke clearly
so I could lipread, made sure I knew
Julie has led countless tours all over the exactly what was happening and gave
world, but one thing remains constant: me the confidence to join in. She did
her dedication to making every trip something much more valuable than
unforgettable. Her passion and talent many other guides I’ve travelled with:
shone through in every testimonial we she gave a bit of herself to help me.
received, and it’s clear that she always She was more than just a guide.”
goes beyond the call of duty. “A top-notch leader and an excellent
Originally from Preston, Julie left driver of 18-tonne trucks!”
home at 19 in search of adventure.
She quickly gained an impressive CV The judges’ view
(from designing self-drive tours in New The judges picked up on Julie’s
Zealand to managing a ski company humour, empathy and organisational
in France), and joined Dragoman in skills. Gill Russell said, “I was really
2013 as a trainee guide. Since then, impressed with her negotiation skills
she has risen through the ranks – at checkpoints that others couldn’t
leading trips all over the world. penetrate, and by her peers saying
But Julie doesn’t stop there: she’s they would trust her with their lives.”
actively involved with training new
guides, and is praised by her colleagues Bursary plans
for her quick thinking, willingness to Julie plans to split her £5,000 bursary
help others and endless enthusiasm between many charitable projects,
for creating incredible experiences. including Zara Charity, in Tanzania,
which are fundraising to replace the
solar panels that power a school for
“She leaves a trail of happiness Maasai children, and a charity in Sierra
wherever she goes, and as Leone that supports victims of female
a mentor she is unrivalled” genital mutilation (FGM). ⊲

WANDERLUST WORLD GUIDE AWARDS
Silver Award Bronze Award

Neil Rabjohn cultures and destinations – always Abderrahim Oukioud
with lots of laughter along the way.
Where he guides: South America Where he guides: Morocco
Booked through: G Adventures What you said Booked through: Intrepid
(gadventures.com) “One hundred percent devoted to (intrepidtravel.com)
ensuring that everyone has their
It’s his attention to detail and excellent best trip ever.” Abderrahim’s passion for his native
rapport with his clients that marks Neil “He empowers his clients to put Morocco is infectious: your anecdotes
as one of the top guides in the business. themselves into the fabric of the were filled with tales of how he went the
The testimonials were full of stories destination. Neil reveals the richness extra mile to connect travellers with his
about his warmth and wit, and we of a place with humility, confidence country. While his tour itineraries are
were amazed to learn that he writes and abounding energy.” already packed with memorable
personalised postcards to each of his “Neil is so knowledgeable. He was experiences, he takes the initiative to
guests at the end of their trip. He has always telling us stories of the area to organise more: a sunset camel ride, for
encyclopedic knowledge, but he’s enrich our experience, and was always example, or the opportunity to simply
often spotted with his head in his reading his history books. He made sit down and chat to local people.
books, learning even more about sure that not one of our questions was Born to a large family on a farm high
the destination’s history and culture. left without an answer.” up in the rugged landscape of the Atlas
Neil caught the travel bug while “Neil is the Chuck Norris of guides; Mountains, Abderrahim (known to his
studying in Hong Kong, and since then the Batman of travel!” clients as Abdu) has been leading tours
he has lived in Barcelona, climbed for Intrepid for over six years. He’s very
mountains all over the world and The judges’ view much a people person, and one traveller
cycled from England to Turkey. In Lyn Hughes said, “Neil was born to the described him as “knowledgeable,
2011, he joined G Adventures and job. Indeed, it’s not his job, it’s his life always on hand to help with any problems
has led groups in South America and he wants everyone who travels and sensitive to everyone’s needs”.
for them over the past five years. with him to have the trip of a lifetime.” But while he works hard to keep every
We were inundated with anecdotes client happy, Abderrahim also cares
from Neil’s clients, describing how he Bursary plans
opened their eyes to new experiences, Neil is a big supporter of Planeterra,
G Adventures’ charitable foundation, “Abdu looked after me like
which supports community-owned I was family: I always felt safe,
“He inspires you to do good enterprises all over the world. “I’d like to comfortable, and cared for. His
in the world, to better yourself support a project in Latin America, my knowledge is endless and his
and keep exploring” adopted home,” says Neil. love for his country contagious”

Top Safari Guide
deeply for Morocco itself. He is an ardent Garth Hovell and adventure, and has achieved
campaigner for travelling sustainably some of sub-Saharan Africa’s toughest
and responsibly, encouraging guests Where he guides: Worldwide guiding qualifications. Over the last
to explore with the lightest of touches, Booked through: Abercrombie & Kent 24 years he has led hundreds of people
and ensuring that the group’s money is (abercrombiekent.co.uk) on tailormade safaris – and many of
spent on local businesses that benefit them return to travel with him time and
the community. Whether he’s leading sunrise game again. Garth now ventures all over the
drives or mixing sunset cocktails in world to lead trips for his repeat clients,
What you said the middle of the bush, Garth is tireless but his first love will always be Africa.
“Abdu goes out of his way to promote in his pursuit of the perfect tailormade
sustainable travel.” safari holiday. Our inbox was full What you said
“This being Morocco, most of our of testimonials about his ability to “We’ve been on dozens of safaris. The
interactions had been with local men, make clients feel connected to the best were with Garth – hands down.”
and we mentioned how refreshing it landscape; to spot even the most “Our family has travelled with Garth
would be to talk to some women camouflaged wildlife from afar; and all over the world. He does endless
about their lives. That same night he to enthrall everyone, whether they’re preparation before each trip to make
arranged for some local women to aged two or 92, with tales of the African sure it is perfect. We actually don’t
sit with us, and he translated a wilderness. “By the end of the trip, want to recommend him, because
wonderful discussion. He always goes we were calling him ‘Indiana Jones’, we want him all to ourselves! But our
above and beyond.” wrote one of Garth’s previous clients, love for him as a friend and (almost)
“Laughing and learning while “because we felt we were on an member of our family overwhelms such
travelling – what more could we want?” amazing journey of discovery with him.” selfishness. We have already planned
Born in 1975 in the Eastern Highlands another two trips with him.”
The judges’ view of Zimbabwe and raised in Botswana, “In addition to his flawless guiding,
Myles Farnbank was impressed by how Garth grew up with a passion for wildlife he is an excellent photographer, and
Abdu gets his customers engaged in provides us with a beautiful hardcover
local life. Derek Moore commented on book after every trip.”
Abdu’s great customer care and ability “We run a tourism company
to bring a group together. in South Africa, and deal with The judges’ view
hundreds of guides. Garth Myles Farnbank said, “The depth of
Bursary plans always stands out for his Garth’s passion jumped out. He really
Abderrahim will put his bursary towards knowledge, professionalism, does transform and change lives, and
a new school for Berber children, in and excellent care of each his many repeat customers regard
a rural village called Tarzout. one of his guests” him as a lifelong friend.” ⊲

Top UK Guide Top Conservation Guide
⊳ Alex Graeme shares his industry knowledge with Pablo Valladares

many local tourism businesses –
Where he guides: UK a gesture that inspired many of them Where he guides: Ecuador
Booked through: Unique Devon Tours to send us glowing testimonials. Booked through: Galakiwi
(uniquedevontours.com) It’s clear that leading unique trips (galakiwi.com)
around Devon is more than just
“Every day I’m out with guests is a business for Alex – it’s a vocation. Pablo, a native Ecuadorian, has made
a treat for me,” enthuses our top UK his home on the Galápagos island of
tour guide, Alex – and it’s clear that the What you said Isabela, where he has become one of
feeling is mutual. His clients love that “Alex is the consummate professional: the highest-regarded conservation
he puts a personal twist on each tour, relaxed, warm and welcoming – and guides in the business.
taking them not only to Devon’s best a friend to all who meet him. He always Whether his guests are regular
beaches, prettiest landscapes and ensures his clients leave feeling holidaymakers or eminent wildlife
most fascinating historical sites, but a deeper connection to this beautiful scientists with an intimate knowledge
also revealing many of the region’s region of England.” of the islands, Pablo always has the
hidden gems. His knowledge about the “Within five minutes of us meeting ability to surprise and delight those
area is far-reaching and impressive: Alex, we knew we had found a gem. who travel with him.
whether you simply want to find the His knowledge of people and places His fascination with wildlife inspired
perfect cream tea, or follow in the is amazing, and he took great pains to him to move from mainland Ecuador
footsteps of your Devonshire ancestors tailor our visit to precisely what we had to the Galápagos archipelago decades
(as many overseas guests want to do), hoped to see. What a find he was!” ago. He originally split his time between
Alex is your man. “I work in tourism, and Alex is one of working at the Charles Darwin Research
When he was a boy, he would take those few people you meet in a lifetime Station and the Giant Tortoise Breeding
guests on tours around the gardens of who inspire you to think diferently Centre, before guiding tours around the
his mother’s B&B – the first step in his about your business. He is a massive Sierra Negra volcano. Today, he reveals
dream of becoming a tour leader. Now asset to tourism in the South-West.” the magic of these unique islands to
he runs his own tour company and guests from all over the world.
The judges’ view
Derek Moore said, “For a UK guide to
“We run a B&B, and many of stand out among guides from exotic “Pablo’s knowledge was deep-
our guests go on tours with locations is quite a feat. This is the rooted and sophisticated. He
Alex. Without fail, they are second time Alex has been a finalist, created a rich and fascinating
blown away by their and he appears to be someone who experience that lasted right
experiences with him” really inspires those who meet him.” through to the final farewells”

WANDERLUST WORLD GUIDE AWARDS
THE JUDGES
Highly commended
Lyn Hughes
Editor-in-chief, Wanderlust
Ashraf Masoud Phauk Kimhoun

Where he guides: Egypt Where he guides:
Booked through: AHI South-East Asia
Travel (ahitravel.com) Booked through:
and Abercrombie & Kent G Adventures
(abercrombiekent.co.uk) (gadventures.com) Derek Moore
Travel industry guru/AITO
Ashraf loves leading groups A self-confessed history

around his native Egypt; he buf, Phauk is passionate
has even guided a few star about sharing cultures,
names, including actor beliefs, food and, in his own
Hugh Jackman. One person words, “Being part of
who travelled with him said: something much bigger
But it’s not all about wildlife for Pablo; “We not only learned about than me”. He goes above
between his family, friends and work, Egypt’s ancient splendours and beyond in his role, and Myles Farnbank
Experienced wilderness guide
somehow he manages to find the time but also the complexities of loves introducing travellers
to volunteer in his local community, too. its culture – and came away to local projects that give
“He knows that the future of the islands with a deeper appreciation back to the communities
rests in the hands of those who live of this interesting country.” that they visit.
there,” wrote Dr Mark Collins, Chairman
of the Galápagos Conservation Trust,
in his Guide Awards testimonial. We
couldn’t think of a better guardian of
Gill Russell
the Galápagos isles than Pablo. Craghoppers UK
What you said

“He really loves the work he does, and
his passion for the Galápagos isles is Sara Bull Gabo Candal
astonishing. This is what makes such
a diference. Guiding is so much more Where she guides: Where he guides: Europe
than his job – it is his life.” Worldwide Booked through:
“Pablo genuinely cares for the islands Booked through: G Adventures
Bill Bryson
and their inhabitants, and is passionately Exodus Travels (gadventures.com) Legendary travel writer
working to preserve and support them (exodus.co.uk)
for many generations to come.” Gabo’s colourful career has
“He made me see not only the Having begun her career included being a theatre
Galápagos diferently but life in general. 23 years ago with the actor, rock ’n’ roll band
He is head and shoulders above any Outward Bound Trust and manager and even a master
other guide I have used.” The Prince’s Trust, Sara is of reiki. In 2010, he spent
now adept at leading all a year working in New
The judges’ view kinds of tours, from Zealand before taking in Mark Carwardine
Mark Carwardine commented, “Pablo is snowshoeing trips in the 87 countries in a two-year Author, photographer
& TV wildlife expert
an influencer in the best sense of the Dolomites to K2 Base Camp epic adventure. He joined
word. He is clearly admired by all who treks. She loves building G Adventures in 2014 and Prizes kindly donated by:
know the Galápagos, while he is loved local relationships, and she hasn’t looked back, sharing
by his customers for whom he inspires also fundraises for many his infectious passion for
a passion for conservation.” charities, including doing travel with everyone who
a 1,000km challenge run. roams with him. craghoppers.com

WARMING YOU NOT THE PLANET
Our signature fleece are made from recycled As a part of our eco-friendly initiative, we’re
materials. It is no secret that recycling plastic now manufacturing our signature fleeces in a
bottles holds numerous benefits; reduced more environmentally sensitive and efficient way.
waste, energy conservation, and decreased By 2019 we’ll have recycled over 10 million
pollution to name a few! plastic bottles.
craghoppers.com
SEVEN OF THE BEST
STAYS IN
MOROCCO
From desert camps and city riads to gazing on the Atlas
peaks from your own hilltop infinity pool – these amazing
locations are ideal for soaking up Morocco’s wonders…
WORDS HAZEL PLUSH
1
LA SULTANA OUALIDIA,
OUALIDIA
Blink and you’ll miss this sumptuous
coastal hotel, hidden in the sand
dunes halfway between Essaouira
and Casablanca. With its infinity pool, private
seawater jacuzzis and a handful of luxurious
bedrooms (complete with king-size beds
and marble en suites), La Sultana Oualidia
is a knockout. But the wow-factor lies in its
location, overlooking wild Atlantic coast and
wetlands. Here you can ride horses on the
empty beaches, go birdwatching by kayak
in the glistening lagoon and slurp delicious
fresh oysters right from the sea. Bliss.
B&B doubles from MAD3,400pn
(£278), based on two sharing;
lasultanahotels.com/oualidia

WA N D E R S LE E P S
2
SALUT MAROC,
ESSAOUIRA
Bright, bold and a little bit
bonkers: that’s how we’d
describe Salut Maroc’s
eye-popping style. From the flamboyant
feature walls to the hand-stitched pillow
cases, every inch of this property is covered
in geometric patterns, intricate mosaics and
a rainbow of colours – the handiwork of its
British owner (and interior designer) Helen
Howat. Somehow, in this 18th-century riad
surrounded by Essaouira’s ancient medina,
it all works perfectly. With a cosy rooftop
restaurant, friendly service and Atlantic
Ocean views, this is a great mini-break base.
B&B doubles from €125pn (£111), based
on two sharing; salutmaroc.com
3
KASBAH DU TOUBKAL,
TOUBKAL NATIONAL PARK
The journey to Kasbah du Toubkal is an adventure in
itself. Winding up, up and into the Atlas mountains
by road, you’ll reach the rural village of Imlil, from
where it’s a 15-minute hike to the hotel – your luggage can be
transported by mule if you wish. At this hilltop citadel are
luxurious bedrooms, lush gardens and a steamy hammam. The
Kasbah is as sustainable as it is stylish, putting guests in touch
with fantastic Berber guides, for treks into the surrounding
mountains, and supporting local education, healthcare and more.
B&B doubles from €170pn (£151), based on two sharing;
kasbahdutoubkal.com ⊲

WA N D E R S LE E P S
4
⊳ AZALAI DESERT CAMP,
CHEGAGA DUNES
Far out in the Sahara Desert,
a nine-hour drive from Marrakech,
a cluster of billowing white tents
appears on the horizon – surely a mirage?
With its plush king-size beds, hot showers and
four-course feasts of French-Moroccan cuisine
(think tagines, soups and souflés), Azalai Desert
Camp is a weary traveller’s fantasy come true.
By day, the desert is yours to explore by camel
(with a guide and a tasty picnic to boot), before
returning for a candlelit dinner, served in the
dunes beneath a twinkling canopy of stars.
Half-board doubles from MAD3,200pn (£260),
based on two sharing; azalaidesertlodge.fr
5 7
RIAD AFRICA, KASBAH BAB
MARRAKECH OURIKA,
Just like a traditional OURIKA VALLEY
Moroccan townhouse, Teetering on the edge of
Riad Africa is a city within the Ourika Valley, between
a city: a self-contained oasis equipped a thundering river and mighty Atlas peaks,
with everything you could possibly Kasbah Bab Ourika feels like the edge of
wish for. With two swimming pools, the world, and yet it’s only a 35-minute
opulent bedrooms and a deliciously drive from Marrakech Airport. With its
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6
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henna-painted by a local artist, or DAR ARSAMA, FES windows and private infinity pools) only
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in the cookery school next door. this tiny guesthouse has B&B doubles from €150pn (£134), based
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Amanda Siworae Photography; Jean Michel Ruiz
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WESTERN AUSTRALIA
WAY
OUT
WEST
To see the Kimberley region usually
involves five-star cruising and
a five-figure price tag – we decided
to see if we could experience this
wilderness on a small budget…
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS PHOEBE SMITH
At the sharp end
Crossing one of the many
crocodile-infested rivers
on the only route across
the Kimberley
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
“S
light problem – it appears the hull has
split.” The woman on the phone said
this in an unemotional and matter-of-
fact manner, as though she’d told me
my train was five minutes late. Though
I’m no master sailor, I knew enough to
know that this was not good news.
gather as many non-perishables
beforehand from the supermarket.
It’s no secret that camping is my
thing, but the idea of doing it out west,
in Australia – the land seemingly home
to more deadly critters per capita than
anywhere else on Earth, not to mention
The small city of Broome, on the far saltwater crocs – left me nervous. And
west coast of Australia, is the jumping I was not alone. As I met my fellow
off point for many a Kimberley cruise, intrepid crew, consisting of a mix of
the likes of which boast full-on luxury budget-minded backpackers, sociable
in the form of sumptuous duvets, so-called ‘grey nomads’ (aka travelling
air-conditioned private cabins and retirees) and money-saving middle-
fine dining. Yet I’d arrived determined aged oice workers escaping the
to find a bargain, and thought I had – 9-to-5, the sense of embarking on the
one that was a fraction of the price, if unknown made the air palpably tense. Light at the end…
(clockwise from far left) The
a bit rough and ready. However, as I’d “I know you’ve seen the itinerary,” legendary sunset in Darwin
just discovered, the upshot was that said our guide, James ‘Duffman’ Duffy, draws the crowds as they
it also wasn’t fit for purpose, so here a beard-sporting, dreadlocked local emerge from overlanding
and from the city itself; The
I was, up the coast without a vessel. who has been overlanding for most Prison Boab Tree – once
Not easily defeated, I hastily sorted of the last decade. “But I need you to used to keep abducted
an overland alternative. And so it was forget about what you’ve read. On aboriginal people from
running away; the sign at
that I found myself, a couple of days these trips, anything can and will Willare Bridge Roadhouse
later, in a ‘cosy’ 4WD vehicle with twelve happen. The road conditions can promises many kilometres
other travellers, towing all our cooking, mean diversions and campsites may of adventure; Dufman
lights the campfire used
sleeping and hiking apparatus behind have to be changed, which can affect both for keeping us
us in a small trailer. My objective hadn’t when and where we stop, but…” he warm and for cooking
changed, though, and this promised to continued, a wide grin spreading
be a thrilling way to see the region on across his face, “I do promise that
a budget. Our fluffy duvets would be you are about to embark on an
replaced by canvas-covered roll mats unforgettable adventure.”
and sleeping bags (known as ‘swags’);
our ‘air conditioning’ would be the First comes last
outside air at night; and as for fi With Duffman’s intriguing promise
dining, cooking would requ ring in the air, we left Broome
regularly stop to saw fell ssil-lined beaches, where
a campfire, get water mel roam at sunset, far
jerry cans as often cked up on supplies at ⊳
‘I do promise that
you are about to embark
on an unforgettable
adventure’
Ships of the beach ⊳ Willare Bridge Roadhouse in Derby,
(top) The ubiquitous camels
on the beach in Western
where the sign informed us that our
final destination of Darwin – nine days
‘The Aboriginal peoples
Australia’s seaside town
of Broome; (bottom) the
town’s still-famous pearl
away – would see us cover 1,709km
(that’s not far short of the distance
don’t believe they own
shells are everywhere here
between London and Moscow). As the
last stretch of tarmac road came and
the land, but that they
went under our tyres, I felt the shifting
sand slide beneath our wheels. The
are custodians of it’
road signs warning of dangers ahead
came thick and fast: fire risk – severe; Our first stop, a hey would work
four-wheel drive – mandatory; flash Prison Tree, nodded er day, deep-diving in
flooding – a real possibility. This felt settlers. It was once used per suits for nothing in
like a truly daring undertaking. shade from the intense sun payment. This prison tree
The road we were following, known on the flesh of the tree’s seeds, ere many were held en route
as the Gibb River Road, is a new one, have a brittle texture, like meringu roome. Looking at the wizened
relatively speaking. It was established yet taste of mandarins. But after the ark, I couldn’t help but think about
as a cattle-driving route in the early pearling industry took hold here in the what it had witnessed and I shivered.
1900s, moving herds between Derby 1860s, it was used for a more sinister “The Aboriginal peoples don’t
in the south and Wyndham in the purpose. Back then, a practice known believe they own the land, but that
north. But it’s a course that has been as ‘blackbirding’ was common, and it they are custodians of it,” explained
followed for around 20,000 years by meant Aboriginal people could be Duffman as we headed further along
the Aboriginal peoples who regularly taken at gunpoint to go pearling the road. “As such, they are very much
used it as a trading route. (refusal meant death for themselves part of its history.”

WESTERN AUSTRALIA
His point was beautifully illustrated

at the next stop, Windjana Gorge –
a looming ridgeline of a Devonian-era
limestone reef that was under the
ocean some 300 million years ago. It
also hides a smattering of Aboriginal
paintings in its crevices, depicting
kangaroos, human figures and faces.
By the time we reached our ‘campsite’
– a patch of desert about an hour up
the road – we were all exhausted. But
we wouldn’t be resting straight away.
Notes from underground

“Tunnel Creek is a hugely important
site,” said our guide, as we protested
leaving camp to explore when it was
getting dark. “If we go in the morning,
it will be busy. But if we go now…”
We reluctantly agreed and headed to
the 750m-long cave system – thought
to be one of the oldest in Western
Australia. The leaves crunched like
crisps underfoot as we walked outside
the cave and, though the stars and
moon shone high in the sky, we soon
left the light behind and were engulfed
by the darkness of the cavern. The odd butterflies danced in our torch beams. That’s the point red eyes of baby alligators lying in wait
squeak and flap of bats waking up to Gradually it became lighter, and it was (clockwise from top) in the creek ahead, playing a waiting
Dufman points out cave
hunt echoed around us, while the with a dizzying sense of realisation paintings found after a walk game for the humans they knew were
knee-deep water, which looked green that I found we were outside again, from an innocuous turning inside. It was as though nature itself
of the main road; exploring
under the light from my headtorch, staring at the moon once more. wanted to contribute to the story.
in Tunnel Creek at night,
was filled with skittish yabbies (local It was here where Duffman told when the wildlife begin to By the time we reached the
crayfish) darting about my feet. us the story of an Aboriginal man awaken; the striped domes campsite, it was so late that suddenly
of the Bungle Bungles
The walls yawned for metres above called Jandamarra who, in 1897, hid the idea of sleeping in a swag felt
us, like stone sculptures sporting out here when he refused to turn in welcoming; any worry of snakes or
elaborate chandeliers, while the roots his uncle for cattle-poaching. Despite venomous bedfellows was replaced
of trees pierced the roof, dangling evading capture for many days, he only by extreme tiredness. We slept
above our heads. Spiny red-and-yellow was eventually found and killed. As by the light of the moon, a gentle
insects scurried over the rocks and Duffman spoke the final words of the cooling breeze tickling our cheeks,
a fluttering of black-and-white tale, behind him I could make out the while dingos howled somewhere ⊳

Echo location
The yawning space inside
Cathedral Gorge, where
even the sounds of birds
and insects are amplified
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Duffman pulled in at an innocuous- the extravagance, for us, arrived in the
looking stop, to reveal a treasure trove form of a much-needed natural shower
of ochre, black and white Aboriginal in the ice-cool waters of Emma Gorge
artwork under an overhang. We’d never Waterfall. Then there was the
have known it existed without him. unforgettable Manning Gorge, where
One such site even had depictions of we were so mesmerised by its beauty
jellyfish and what looked like a whale, – a cirque of red rock with water so
proving the theory that our ancestors clear you could see right to its depths
did indeed use this trail to head out – that we decided to swim back to the
from the desert to the ocean. Then campsite, crossing mini-falls, battling
there were the wildlife sightings: salt- spiky pandanus trees and guided by the
and freshwater crocodiles, wallaroos smear of the Milky Way as night fell.
bounding by the roadside, even a deadly Campsites ranged from scraps of
taipan snake hidden in a passageway. land under the shade of fat boab trees,
Finally, there were those special to a starry night on top of a mountain
moments, such as the joy at discovering plateau after crossing the 60m-wide
the 998,000-acre Ellenbrae Station waters of the Pentecost River. But by
(a cattle station, not the railway far the highlight of the trip came at
variety), where owners Logan and Purnululu National Park, known for
Larissa baked scones throughout the its Bungle Bungle Range. Located deep
dry season (June and July), making inland, boat passengers usually reach
Bush luxury ⊳ in the distance. It was a special enough money to keep them afloat the this place courtesy of a helicopter, but
(top) The infinity pool-like introduction to life in the Kimberley. rest of the time. “Last year, we made we spent the night amid its beehive-
Bell Gorge, a bathing treat
for overlanders; (bottom) 14,350 scones,” revealed Larissa. like rock formations, seeing the night
the 4WD may not ofer Rocks of ages Between such encounters we took sky dazzle far from any light pollution.
five-star luxury but takes The following days passed in a similarly swims in croc-free billabongs. Bell Sleeping out meant we woke early
you to a billion-star scenery
heady mix of adventures, where treats Gorge was one of the first, resembling and got to watch the sun rise, casting
came in the form of simple, and often a wild version of an infinity pool as it a pink glow on the rocky domes. Then
low-priced (or free), luxuries. Acres of dropped down into a gushing waterfall we walked to Cathedral Gorge before
never-ending sand, interspersed with while monitor lizards looked on. At any coach tours entered the park gates.
desert bloodwood trees (a type of El Questro Station, where the beautiful There the rock has formed what looks
eucalyptus), were traversed before Luxury Lodge of Australia is situated, like an apple core, with a pool of

WESTERN AUSTRALIA
‘I felt like I could reach

out and run my fingers over
the mountains, reading
their stories like brail’
water inside. I gazed ater, about 2.30am,
from birds reverberated hing was wrong. The
ne. Not only that but the
Sky’s the limit e absent: no Southern Cross,
With so much money saved, and j lky Way – just a single red planet
two days left before reaching Darwin hting the darkness. The usual rustle
I decided a splurge was in order. This of leaves and the breath of my fellow
came in the form of a helicopter ride. campers was replaced with a tuneless
“Seeing the Bungle Bungles from the hum. I had never felt so disorientated.
ground is special,” said the pilot as we Just then, I noticed a neon cluster of
took off, “but from above, you get to lines. As I stared, I realised these were found its way under my toenails, Feeling the bite
see them in a whole other dimension.” large green digits. I wiggled my toes had also got under my skin, too. And (top) Saltwater crocs are
frequent visitors to water
How right he was. As we soared and felt the soft fabric of a plush duvet though the dirt could be easily supplies especially once
over the range, it emerged like covering my feet. I wasn’t outside. The scrubbed away, the memories of you reach the Northern
Territory; (bottom) the
a boundless knobbled mass of pimples, hum was the air-conditioning unit; the swagging in the Kimberley under the
scale of Purnululu/the
lumps and bumps, resembling gnarled red ‘planet’ the standby light from the night sky would remain for much Bungle Bungles is best
sections on a tree trunk that, courtesy TV. This was no campsite; I was in my longer. Five stars can be wonderful, appreciated from the air
of my door-free chopper, I felt like five-star hotel in the city of Darwin. I mused as I drifted off again, but it
I could reach out and run my fingers It seemed that the bush, much can never compete with a billion
over, reading their stories like brail. like the mud and sand that had witnessed in a clear night’s sky.

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WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Footnotes factor sunscreen and take a hat.

Only swim in water sources known
to be croc-free and do not wade
in water crossings as salties are
often present. If in doubt, don’t get
in the water. Snakes are present
The Kimberley, but tend to stay out of your way;
nevertheless, be sure to walk
Australia with heavy steps in areas where
visibility is limited and give them
an especially wide berth.
Getting there & around

Qantas (qantas.com) operates
daily direct flights between
Vital statistics London Heathrow and Perth from (Kimberleyadventures.com.au), one
Starting town: Broome around £814; flight time around 17 of the oldest operators in Broome,
Finishing town: Either Kununurra hours. From there, onward flights which runs regular nine-day trips
or Darwin to Broome are available (flight time between Broome and Darwin and
Kimberley population: 38,801 around 2.5 hours). Other options 20-day trips between Perth and
Languages: English go via Dubai (emirates.com) and Darwin in the dry season, taking
Time: GMT+8 Singapore (singaporeair.com), in the Kimberley and the Bungle
International dialling: +61 with flight times of 20 hours or Bungles National Park. Prices from
Visas: Required by UK nationals. more, including a stopover. It’s AUS$1,995 (£1,110), which includes
Three-month eVisitor visas (free) highly recommended that you the services of a driver/guide, all
can be applied for before your trip cross the Kimberley with a guide park entry fees, all meals, camping
at www.homeafairs.gov.au. and a 4WD all-terrain vehicle. equipment and most excursions.
Money: Australian dollar (AUS$), Ships of the beach
currently AUS$1.80 to the UK£ (top right) Be sure to take
a sunset camel ride
The trip Accommodation
across the sands at Cable The author travelled with There are limited options in
When to go Beach Club in Broome Kimberley Adventure Tours Broome – by far the best in terms ⊲
Wet season (Dec–Apr): Heavy
rains, extremely high temperatures
(think high 30s and low 40s in
°C ) and roads predisposed to
flooding. Most operators ofering
road tours stop running.
Dry season (May–Nov): Roads
begin to open mid- to late April –
you need to check ahead. Some
road closures are always possible.
Weather is warm and humid but
bearable – expect averages of
around 30°C and up.
Health & safety

No specific jabs are required.
Water is safe but dificult to find
en route. It is vital that you carry
multiple jerry cans and fill them
up at every possible opportunity
– especially if not on an organised
tour. You also need to carry extra
fuel and check ahead to find
out the latest road conditions
Map illustration by Scott Jessop
(www.derbytourism.com.au) as
they can be treacherous and
prone to flash flooding.
Daytime can be swelteringly hot,
so be sure to cover up; use high-

WESTERN AUSTRALIA
⊳ of location is the Cable Beach

Club (cablebeachclub.com;
doubles from AUS$199/£111) from
where you can stroll to watch
the sunset, search for dinosaur
footprints in the sand, take
a camel ride or explore the town.
On the road, expect very basic
accommodation – swag bags TOP TIP
and sleeping bags are the way to In Darwin, head
go (plus mosquito-net tents for down to the
nights when the insects are out in Mindil Market to
force). In Darwin, try the Oaks Elan experience an
Darwin (oakshotels.com; doubles abundance of
from AUS$98/£54), which is street food, much
centrally located for nightlife and of it inspired Five add-ons worth the splurge
just a short taxi ride to the locally by the nearby
famous Mindil Beach Sunset Indonesian A budget overland tour of a fascinating insight into early
Market (mindil.com.au). the Kimberley is a great way life in Broome. Prices from
islands.
to save, but there are a few AUS$89 (£49).
Food & drink activities worth getting the
Out on the road, classic Australian
fare abounds – think barbecued
credit card out for…
3 Helicopter ride over
the Bungle Bungles
meat and vegetables with
a side order of damper bread
(Australian soda bread) cooked
1 Horizontal Falls
Usually seen on pricey boat
tours around the Kimberley coast
Seeing the park’s striped
sandstone domes from the
ground is incredible, but gazing
in the embers of a campfire. Any and Buccaneer Archipelago, down on them from a helicopter
extra snacks can usually be picked this natural phenomenon, is mind-blowing. Prices from
up en route at service stations where the sea flows horizontally AUS$299 (£166) with Heli Spirit
(when available). In Broome, be through a tiny gap in the (helispirit.com.au).
sure to pay a visit to Matso’s mountains, is well worth a look.
Broome Brewery for locally made
beers (matsos.com.au) or The
Aarli (theaarli.com.au) for Asian-
Horizontal Falls Adventures
(horizontalfallsadventures.com.
au) ofers seaplane trips out
4 Lake Argyle cruise
From the Bungle Bungles,
take a short trip to camp and
inspired eating – both are highly from Broome, including a meal watch the incredible sunset from
recommended local picks. on a boat, the chance to swim this huge lake. Ofered as an
with sharks and a fast boat ride add-on by Kimberley Adventure
Further reading Just tilt your head…
through the falls. Prices from Tours for AUS$120 (£67).
& information (top right) The Horizontal AUS$850 (£472).
West Coast Australia (Lonely
Planet, 2017) – a good guide to WA
Westernaustralia.com – oficial
Falls is one of the region’s
natural wonders worth
shelling out extra for
2 Camel ride, Broome
Look up Broome online
5 Aboriginal tour, Darwin
Pudakul Aboriginal Cultural
Tours (pudakul.com.au) ofers
tourist board site for the region Amber nectar and you’ll be deluged with a unique insight into the life
(bottom) Matso’s Broome
Australia.com – the oficial tourist Brewery serves up some shots of camels marching along of the Aboriginal residents of
board site for the country top local suds the sands at sunset. Combine the Top End. Take the Wetland
a ride with a half-day tour at Discovery Tour to see the local
Kimberley Wild Expeditions crocs and birdlife by boat.
(kimberleywild.com.au), ofering Prices from AUS$165 (£92).
More Online
Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/191
Planning Guides
Australia Travel Guide
Archive Articles
Alamy; Phoebe Smith
‘The Indian Pacific’ (issue 184) – Riding the rails from Perth to Sydney
’Deep Down Under’ (issue 157) – Whale-watching in the waters of WA
’8 Inland Adventures in WA’ (online only) – From wild rocks to cool pools

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provision of tuberculosis benefit) is authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority, FRN 205351.
Verify our registration at register.fca.org.uk. The remainder of the Society’s business is undertaken on a discretionary basis. No personal recommendation has been given on the suitability of this
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Data Protection: At Benenden Health, we look after your details carefully. We adhere to the requirements of the UK Data Protection Act 2018 and are registered on the public register of data
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one place, what these uses are. Our Privacy Notice is available at www.benenden.co.uk/privacy-policy. Changes to the Privacy Notice are made occasionally, so please revisit our website and read
it through again from time to time. A printed copy is also available on request.
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
Coast with the most

The Vicentina Coast has
plenty of great viewpoints
along the way; (below) the
scenic village of Odeceixe
ALGARVE
WALK A STRETCH OF WILD PORTUGAL
Tread pilgrim trails, wildlife-filled dunes and wind-beaten
coastlines along the Algarve’s web of fine walking routes
M
ention the quickly find that the Algarve is
Algarve and, a wanderer’s dream.
thanks to
its buttery COASTAL HISTORY
sands and Head to the Algarve’s western
wind-sculpted bays, most periphery for a truly wild
people will conjure classic experience. A protected natural
images of that clichéd trio: sun, park since 1995, the Vicentina
sea and sand. However, those Coast is veined with walking
who know the area understand trails that lead ramblers through
that there’s far more to it than historic and epic terrain, a web
just pristine beaches. that is collectively known as the
This is a region packed with Rota Vicentina.
history, wildlife and amazing The stand-out route is the
trails, so make sure you pack 230km-long Historical Way,
your hiking boots because which follows in the footsteps of
its craggy cliffs, rocky coves Catholic pilgrims who walked
and storied coastline were from the Cape of St Vincent
made for walking. Take your in south-western Portugal –
time to ramble around the mainland Europe’s most
region’s fringes and you will western point – to Santiago
A rocky road
The are some amazing sea caves
on the Seven Hanging Valleys
trail (below); springtime is ideal for
walking the blooming Fisherman’s
Trail that runs the south-west coast
de Compostela in Spain, the The terracotta-tiled buildings of vertiginous mountains that rise booted eagles, honey buzzards,
purported burial site of apostle the village of Bordeira are worth up right next to the beaches, red kites, kestrels and even
St James. The Algarve stretch of a closer look in particular. with the villages of Vilarinha and golden eagles frequently
‘The Way’ spans a 72km chunk, The third section, stretching Pedralva acting as charming pit spotted in the skies above.
broken up into four sections that from Carrapateira to Vila do stops. Meanwhile, the final Vale Santo was once part of the
can each be tackled in a day. Bispo, coughs up more epic segment, from Vila do Bispo pilgrimage route for devotees of
They all bring their own allure, scenery, with gushing rivers to the Cape of St Vincent, is Iberian deacon St Vincent, their
with the northern tip beginning hemmed in by deep valleys and a birdwatcher’s paradise, with trek culminating at the nearby
at the medieval Castle of Aljezur, monastery, where an imperious
before winding past lowlands lighthouse now stands.
and the Aljezur River, then
slicing through valleys and down BLAZING A TRAIL
to the beaches of Amoreira. However, the Algarve is not
Next, carve your way through just about the Historical Way;
eucalyptus forests to the there are plenty of bitesize
blackened cliffs that frame the walks that web the region, and
Bay of Arrifana. The Arrifana- which are just as compelling.
Carrapateira section is a The south coast in particular is
microcosm of the Vicentina showcased on the Seven
Coast in many ways: crumbling Hanging Valleys trail, which
cliffs overlook peaceful beaches, knits together many of the
while the leaves of wild olive coast’s glittering beaches
and oak trees flutter in the wind between Praia da Marinha and
and rolling hills and meadows, Praia de Vale Centeanes. The
which flower in the spring, former is a sandy strip in its own
buzz with a variety of insects. right, its shore sprinkled with
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
gravity-defying sea stacks – tide. The beach forms part of

think Europe’s answer to the much larger Tavira Island,
Australia’s Twelve Apostles. The once part of a major tuna-
rocky arches and grottoes here fishing industry. Men risked the
are geological wonders and unforgiving Atlantic waters to
worth the walk in themselves, make the day’s catch, but once
their outcrops lined with fish stocks were exhausted, the
seagulls and cormorants. One industry went with them. These
of the delights of the trail is the days, only a memorial in their
many skiffs that access the honour remains, with over 100
sinkholes and sea caves that rusting anchors wedged in
honeycomb the cliffs – the among the dunes, while the
grandly domed Benagil Cave fishermen’s old houses have
is definitely a must-see. long since been repurposed as
More snackable strolls lie bustling cafés and beach huts.
beyond, with the saltmarsh
dunes of Culatra Island a quiet FESTIVAL
hop from the tourist hub of Faro. OF HIKING
There, boardwalks forge access If you need a little incentive
to the dunes as common to take to the trails, why not
redshanks, curlews, grey combine a visit with some
herons and cormorants flap local celebrations. There are
around the inlet and mollusc a number of walking festivals
shells pock the sand. taking off now, and they offer
Further along, skirting the a fun way to get out on the trails
eastern side of the very tip of while also taking in the sights.
the Algarve, lies another trail The newest event to catch
that cuts through saltmarsh the eye is the Lagos Walking
sands, at Praia do Barril. Here, Festival, launching this year
wading birds like avocets, (1–4 November). During the
plovers and stonechats paddle festival, a number of guided
the inlet, while fiddler crabs walks will take ramblers around
scuttle across the sands at low the picturesque port, each
based around themes that

Ups & downs
The trails of the Algarve yield honour the region’s heritage as
some fantastic views; (top) be sure well as its gastronomic and
to bring your hiking poles and artisan scene. Throw in nature
boots for the gravelly descents
observations, archaeology tours
and lots of workshops and
conservation activities, and you
have an event that offers a great
way to combine the Algarve’s
glorious landscape and culture.
Come April, the two towns
of Alcoutim (6–8 April) and
Ameixial (27–29 April) also
hold similar festivals for spring
strollers. But in truth, with its
storied coastline, wild beaches,
bird-rich dunes and valleys, you
don’t need a reason to visit. Any
time of year is trekking season
here, and there are plenty of
reasons to put your walking
boots on. So, why not lace
up and find out for yourself.
For more information, visit www.visitalgarve.pt and www.cyclingwalkingalgarve.pt

RI L
!
NT AL
ES
RE TC
FO L A S
TRAVEL
PHOTO OF
THE YEAR
2018
Enter and win a photo commission to
HONGKONG and MACAO
GREEN ESCAPES
Pedal power
Explore Taipa
by bicycle; (left)
summiting Hong
Kong’s Tai Mo
Shan at night
HONG KONG
NatureisnotinshortsupplyinHongKong.From
TaiMoShan(957m)totheridgesoftheDragon’s
Back Trail that loom over the deserted beaches
of Shek O, there are natural highs aplenty to be
found. For the adventurous, the MacLehose
Trail meanders 100km across the mainland, or
perhaps tread the tall silver grasses of Lantau
Island instead on its 70kmwalk.Therearewild
encounters,too,withHongKonghometoa
higherbiodiversityofreeffishthanevenHawaii.
Hoi Ha Wan Marine Park, home to 60 species of
hardcoral,isagoodplacetostart,whilebackon
T
ime is fast running out to send your countless islands offshore, with rugged trails, dryland,thetrailsofPlover Country Park echo
top shots in to the Wanderlust Travel peaks and villages spreading out over a vast to the wild calls of barking deer in between the
Photo of the Year 2018. This year has archipelago. A whole other world to explore. crashing of its falls. Proof that there’s far more
already seen thousands of fantastic Macao, just 60km from Hong Kong, might to this green region than just big-city thrills.
entries flood our inbox – and thanks so much not be the first destination that springs to mind www.discoverhongkong.com
to all who’ve done so – but there’s less than when you think of the outdoors, but out on its
a month till that 15 November closing date. islands of Taipa and Coloane (now connected
So if you want to enter the UK’s biggest travel via the reclaimed land of Cotai), it’s a different
photography competition, it’s time to root story. The latter, in particular, feels a world
through your memory cards, find those great apart from the busy peninsula; even the
images and send it it. It doesn’t matter whether Portuguese didn’t arrive here until the 1800s,
it was from a recent trip or an old escape, it’s some 300 years after they first set foot on
so easy to send them in to us! Macao. Wander coastal trails looping forested
But please do note that the competition is hills, black sands and rocky headland, then
only open to amateur photographers, with the head to Taipa, where cycle routes along the
four category winners (along with a travel banyan tree-shaded waterfront shepherd you MACAO
companion of their choosing) sent on a fantastic up to the Old Town and its photogenic green It’s in the southern reaches of Macao, away
Wanderlust photo commission to Hong Kong mansions. A photographer’s delight. from the bustling Pensinsula, that the region
and Macao courtesy of the Hong Kong Tourism It is because of these unique settings that finally exhales. Here lies Coloane, the green
Board and Macao Government Tourism Oice. Wanderlust has joined with the Hong Kong lungs of Macao, an island that long resisted
Tourism Board and Macao Government European influence, back when pirate rule held
Win a commission Tourism Oice to send the four winners sway here. Stretch your legs on the 8km trail
Hong Kong’s reputation as a land of high rises of this competition to Hong Kong and Macao that winds the black sands of Hac Sa and up the
ignores the fact that some 70% of the region on a once-in-a-lifetime photo commission. slopes of Alto de Coloane, where stands a
is actually green. The lush expanse of the New statue of the goddess A-Ma at 19.99m high,
Territories rolls across the mainland, far from How to enter marking the year China took control here.
the bustle of Kowloon, with views from long- Submissions can be shot wherever and But even on the Peninsula you can still find
extinct volcano Tai Mo Shan (957m) rewarding whenever, but they must fit into one of a green escape, and arguably the region’s
MGTO; Jessica Lee (left); HKTB (top right)
with some incredible shots. Lose yourself for our four categories: People, Wildlife, most peaceful corner lies hidden deep among
five days on the MacLehose Trail, which runs Landscape or Travel Icon. Whether you’ve the urban flow, in the Southern Chinese-style
100km east to coastal Sai Kung where sea captured Machu Picchu from an original gardens of Lou Lim leok – a serene retreat that
stacks, caves and basalt columns some 140 angle or a humpback mid-breach, just has found favour with locals and visitors alike.
million years in the making plummet far down send them in for our judges to review. www.visitmacao.co.uk
to the waters below. Gaze out and you can spy Closing date is 15 November 2018. ⊲
Peace & quiet
The Macao Peninsula’s
Lim Lou leok gardens are
an oasis of peace away
from the city streets
YOU CAN ALSO WIN… SANDISK

Western Digital, including the SanDisk® brand, is
a leading supplier of flash memory products,
NIKON CAMERA PERMAJET trusted by consumers all around the globe. If
All our Runner-Up photographers will win a Nikon The Winner of the Public Vote (to be held at you’re on the trip of a lifetime, you need to be
camera and lens kit. They can gather new Destinations Show 2019 at Olympia, London) will confident that your kit won’t let you down. That’s
perspectives with the NIKON D7500 and AF-S DX receive a £100 voucher to spend with PermaJet , why they have partnered with the Wanderlust
Nikkor 18-140mm VR lens, which combine to while the Highly Commended photographers will Photo of the Year competition to ofer the
produce crisp images and 4K UHD video. The each receive five high-quality prints of their Winners, plus up to four Runners Up, four Highly
camera’s versatility, accompanied by a 7.8x zoom image. PermaJet believe that a photo isn’t finished Commended entries and the Winner of the Public
lens, means it lends itself to a variety of shooting until it’s brought to life through the art of print. Vote (to be held at Destinations Show 2019),
situations, from sweeping landscapes to distant With a wide selection of award-winning inkjet a range of mobile storage products, including the
icons, making it the ideal companion for capturing papers to choose from, creating your own SanDisk® iXpand™ flash drive for iPhone and iPad.
your next travel adventure. It’s backed up by an high-quality prints from home has never been This can quickly free up space as well as
in-camera Picture Control system, so you can add easier. Their ranges extend from Digital Photo, automatically back up your camera roll, and it is
your own creative style to your images as well. with the reputable gloss and matt, right through to compatible with most cases. It’s lightweight,
Create lasting, immersive images of your travels Baryta, Fine Art or Canvas, which include both portable and will make sure that you can capture it
– exactly as you experience them. smooth and textured papers suitable for artistic all, from sunrise to sunset. You can even store and
and museum quality prints. watch videos straight from the
drive, making it a terrific
travel companion.
www.permajet.com www.sandisk.co.uk
SEND US YOUR PHOTOS To enter, or for the full terms & conditions, visit www.travelphotooftheyear.co.uk.
The closing date for sending in entries is 15 November 2018. Best of luck!
MGTO

COMPETITION
WIN!
A TRIP FOR TWO TO MOROCCO
WORTH OVER £1,500
Walk the greatest desert on Earth with KE Adventure Travel
T
he Sahara Desert, a land splendour, with the distant Erg medina and Djemaa el-Fna square,
of sweeping dunes, Ez-Zahar and the converging overlooked by Koutoubia Mosque.
Berber camps and camel wadis of Mala Ouedane truly KE Adventure Travel are experts How to win
trains - made iconic as the catching the eye. in small-group, guided travel and KE Adventure Travel is
setting for David Lean’s film But the desert isn’t just plains. their best-selling Edge of the ofering one lucky reader
Lawrence of Arabia. For many, Tamarisk and acacia trees defy Sahara Trek is just one of a huge the chance to win two
the classic adventure. Tour logic on the dry banks of the Draa range of walking, trekking, cycling, places on its eight-day Edge
operator KE Adventure Travel River, their foliage puncturing the discovery and family holidays to of the Sahara Trek, including
is ofering you the chance to ochre landscape. The dunes of Morocco, curated across 35 years international flights,
explore this magical sandy Tilhatine lie beyond, as well as of organising adventure travel transfers and all meals. To
land on foot with its Edge of the a wadi that’s been dry for 35 years, experiences in the country. Few be in with a chance of
Sahara Trek in Morocco. since the construction of the El can resist the lure of the Sahara. It winning, just answer the
Mansour Eddahbi Dam. After one is an uncompromising yet mystical following question:
Desert trekking final night in a Berber camp, you’ll land and the adventures to be had
Start with a brief stop among the return to Marrakech to explore its in the desert are huge. On day 5 of the Edge of the
souks and squares of Marrakech Sahara holiday, you trek
before driving over the High Atlas through tamarisk trees:
Mountains to wilder climes. how tall can they grow in
There you will dip into the Draa the desert environment?
Valley, a 100km swathe that
contains the longest palm grove a) 8 metres
in the country. Stop in Ouled b) 12 metres
Driss, an outpost on the edge c) 18 metres
of the Sahara and sleep in
Find out the answer at
a Berber camp before forging
keadventure.com – Trip Code: WST
dunes and abandoned villages. To enter and for full terms &
Next, spend time in Sidi Naji, conditions and data policies,
visit www.keadventure.com/
a holy shrine for nomads, then competitions. The closing
head deeper into the desert. date is 30 November 2018.
Here, the dunes increase in
To enter visit www.keadventure.com/competitions or call 017687 71662 for more info about this trip
JOURNEYS
Introducing Wanderlust Journeys. A selection of exclusive trips
curated by Wanderlust in partnership with leading tour operators.
Latest trips: A Silk Road adventure with Benedict Allen, a horseback

trek through Montenegro with Richard Dunwoody, visit the Galápagos
with Stanley Johnston, and experience the best of India and meet
Best Exotic Marigold Hotel author Deborah Moggach.

JOURNEYS
EXCLUSIVE TRIPS
The Great Silk

Road adventure
with Benedict Allen
SEE THE FABLED TRADING ROUTE, TRAVELLING
FROM CHINA TO IRAN, WITH A SPECIAL GUEST
APPEARANCE FROM ADVENTURER BENEDICT ALLEN
Four countries, thousands of miles and 33 days:

this is one of the most remarkable tours you can
undertake. And the rewards for those who join it are
suitably immense: magnificent landscapes, fabulous
cities and extraordinarily beautiful architecture. It’s
a journey along one of the most important thoroughfares
in history, connecting continents and plied by merchants
and travellers from Marco Polo onwards.
With guest appearances from the intrepid Benedict Allen and
Jonny Bealby, founder of Wild Frontiers and a Silk Road veteran,
plus a foreign correspondent, your travels will include a rich variety
of fascinating viewpoints. And there will be no danger of roughing
it like the traders of yesteryear. Staying in comfortable hotels
throughout, you will leave the logistics in the capable hands of Wild
Frontiers, allowing you to discover why this remains, as our
Wanderlust guide says, the “greatest travel route of all time”.
HIGHLIGHTS
Talks from our experts
Before travelling to Asia, you’ll have the chance to hear from
Jonny Bealby, founder of Wild Frontiers, who will share his
first-hand knowledge of the Silk Road. Having travelled the route
on horseback and written a book about the experience – Silk
Dreams, Troubled Road, which was also turned into a
documentary on the Discovery Channel – he is well placed to give
an introduction to the region. You will also get an insight into
working as a foreign correspondent in China and hear about the
extraordinary travels of Benedict Allen as he joins you in. ⊲

ITINERARY
DAYS 1-11 Beijing, Xi’an, Jiayuguan, Dunhuang,
Turpan, Kashgar (China)
DAYS 12-17 Tashkent, Samarkand,
Bukhara (Uzbekistan)
DAYS 18-19 Mary (Turkmenistan)
DAYS 20-33 Mashhad, Tehran, Abyaneh, Yazd,
Shiraz, Persepolis, Isfahan (Iran)
WHAT’S INCLUDED
O Full services of a Wild Frontiers Tour Leader
O Exclusive talks from Jonny Bealby, the Telegraph’s
China correspondent and Benedict Allen
O 89 meals
⊳ UNESCO World O All accommodation
Heritage Sites O All entrance fees
In just over a month O All transport as outlined in the itinerary
of travelling, you will have the chance to EXPERT BIO
explore ten World Heritage Sites, ranging BENEDICT ALLEN BOOKING DETAIL
Writer, adventurer
from the Great Wall of China to the royal The dates: 3 April–5 May 2019
and broadcaster
ruins of Persepolis in Iran and the Terracotta Benedict Allen has The price: From £9,645pp*
Army in Xi’An. been wandering the Call 020 8003 7505 to find out more, or visit
world’s most remote wanderlust.co.uk/SilkRoadJourney
regions for around
Trading past 30 years. Known for
You will get a sense of the huge importance his passion for OUR TRAVEL PARTNERS
of the Great Silk Road as a trading route, immersing himself in
stopping at key former staging points such indigenous cultures,
Benedict hit the
as Dunhuang – the last stop before the headlines after going
desert – and visiting vibrant bazaars in missing for several
days in Papua New *Price based on two sharing. Price does not include international
Kashgar, Tehran and more. flights out from UK and returning from Iran. Itinerary subject to
Guinea last year. change. Our travel partner, Wild Frontiers, is ATOL and ABTOT-bonded.
Previous spread Shutterstock, Getty Images This spread Shutterstock, Getty ImagesRichard Dunwoody
He is the author of Note this trip is also being promoted to readers of The Telegraph. For
Fascinating cities nine books full terms and conditions, go to wanderlust.co.uk/SilkRoadJourney.
Many of the cities that grew around the documenting his
Great Silk Road accumulated fabulous experiences,
including Edge of
riches, which you’ll trace in the architecture, Blue Heaven, an
museums and galleries you discover en account of a journey
route. Stops include the ghost city of Jiaohe through Siberia and
the remote landscape
and beautiful Samarkand in Uzbekistan.
of Mongolia.
Magnificent landscapes
Take in the majestic environment of the
route once plied by merchants. At the
otherworldly Crescent Moon Lake, you can
climb to the top of the dunes for spectacular
views of the spring hidden among the sands
and take in the sunset.

JOURNEYS
Horseriding in EXCLUSIVE TRIPS
Montenegro
with Richard Dunwoody
JOIN THE FORMER CHAMPION JOCKEY-
TURNED-TOUR LEADER ON THIS EIGHT-
DAY HORSE-RIDE DISCOVERING A
BEAUTIFUL, LITTLE-KNOWN NATION
Packed with magnificent mountains

and amazing architecture, beautiful
Montenegro is made for exploring on ITINERARY
horseback, and this eight-day trip allows you DAY 1 Kolašin
to experience it from the saddle. DAY 2 Ride to Eko Katun Vranjak
Your host will be Richard Dunwoody, DAY 3 Biogradska Gora National Park
a three-time Champion Jockey and now an DAY 4 Katun Goleš to Potrk Katun
entertaining tour leader. Together you’ll DAY 5 Durmitor National Park
explore mountains and rivers, visit traditional DAY 6 Durmitor National Park
villages, enjoy home-cooked Montenegrin meals to Žabljak
and immerse yourselves in beautiful scenery. DAY 7 Rafting the Tara River
DAY 8 Tour ends in Kolašin
HIGHLIGHTS
Richard Dunwoody as tour leader WHAT’S INCLUDED
Since Richard retired from horseracing in the late O Richard Dunwoody as the Wild
1990s, he has become even busier, leading tours, going on gruelling Frontiers Tour Leader
expeditions and taking portraits of famous figures. We are delighted EXPERT BIO O Services of local guides and drivers
that he will be on hand throughout this tour next June. And you don’t RICHARD O Meal plan as detailed in the itinerary
need to be a top jockey to join him. Any intermediate rider able to DUNWOODY (see online) with the majority of meals
Born in Northern
control a horse in open country at walk, trot and canter can take part. Ireland, Richard eaten in local restaurants where viable
Dunwoody was the O All transport as outlined in the
Montenegro’s National Parks only jockey of his itinerary (not including
generation to win the
You will discover two of Montenegro’s most cherished protected international flights)
‘Big Three’ National
areas: Biogradska Gora, where you’ll pass springs and lakes with the Hunt races and was O All accommodation
peaks of the Albanian Alps in the distance, and Durmitor National Champion Jockey O All entrance fees, as per itinerary
Park, where you’ll trot through meadows and villages as you head for three times O A carbon-ofsetting contribution to
(1993-95). He was
one of the highest points in the Balkans. awarded the MBE Carbon Clear (if booking international
for services to his flights through Wild Frontiers’ ofice)
Monasteries and bridges sport in 1993.
Since retiring, he’s
En route you will see some very diferent architectural features, from BOOKING DETAILS
travelled extensively,
the striking medieval Morača Monastery to the vast arches of undertaking The dates: 8–15 June 2019
Djurdjevica Tara Bridge. expeditions to the The price: From £1,895pp*
Arctic and Antarctic, Call 020 8712 4470 to find out
leading Wild
Raft down the Tara Frontiers tours, and
more, or visit wanderlust.co.uk/
River Canyon working on the MontenegroJourney.
On your penultimate Mongol Derby. He is
day you’ll step out of also a notable OUR TRAVEL PARTNERS
photographer.
the saddle to explore
Europe’s deepest
canyon in the best
*Price based on two sharing. Price does not include
way possible: by raft, international flights out from UK. Itinerary subject to
giving you the chance change. Our travel partner, Wild Frontiers, is ATOL
and ABTOT-bonded. Note this trip is also being
to admire the promoted to members of the Injured Jockeys Fund
landscapes as you drift (IJF). For full terms and conditions, go to
wanderlust.co.uk/MontenegroJourney.
along with the current. ⊲

The Galápagos Islands
with Stanley Johnson
⊳ JOIN THE WRITER AND ENVIRONMENTALIST ON THIS Rabida Island and snorkelling with sea turtles, penguins,
ONE-OFF ITINERARY SAILING AROUND THE whitetip reef sharks and other marine life. There will
ASTONISHING ARCHIPELAGO THAT INSPIRED also be insights from local naturalists on board
CHARLES DARWIN throughout the voyage.
As our Wanderlust guide to the Galápagos says: Talks from Stanley Johnson
“Most of us dream of making a pilgrimage to this A Galápagos Conservation Trust ambassador and a
mystical archipelago”. No matter how many passionate environmentalist, Stanley is perfectly
documentaries you see, nothing compares to being positioned to give context to the islands’ wildlife.
there – clambering the same banks as Charles Darwin, Excellent company, he’ll be on board throughout the trip.
wandering the same ground as Lonesome George, or
hearing the fizz of a Galápagos penguin swim past. Colonial Quito
This is your chance to make your dream happen on an Before you head out to the Galápagos, you
exceptional voyage in the company of special guest will stay overnight in the Ecuadorian capital,
Stanley Johnson. His passion for the environment and giving you the chance to enjoy its
role as ambassador for the Galápagos Conservation spectacular location high in the Andes and
Trust make him the ideal travelling companion for this explore its handsome colonial architecture.
extraordinary destination.
Sail on Coral I
HIGHLIGHTS Enjoy a privileged view of the diverse
Dazzling biodiversity Galápagos wildlife on this elegant ship.
Sailing around this unique archipelago afords more Some say stepping on board this intimate,
wildlife-viewing opportunities than it is possible to spacious vessel is like entering your own
list here. Just a few of them include: sharing the beach private yacht. The Coral I is well-furnished
with sea lions on Cerro Brujo (San Cristóbal), with three decks of generous amenities and
encountering marine iguanas on Punta Suárez on cabins for 34 guests, including a whirlpool
Española, meeting wild Galápagos giant tortoises upstairs and an excellent restaurant serving
on Santa Cruz, spotting myriad bird species on Ecuadorian and international dishes.

JOURNEYS
EXPERT BIO ITINERARY EXCLUSIVE TRIPS
STANLEY DAY 1 Arrival in Quito
JOHNSON
One of Britain’s
DAY 2 San Cristóbal Island
best-known DAY 3 Cerro Brujo
environmentalists, DAY 4 Española Island
Stanley Johnson is a DAY 5 Floreana Island
journalist and author
who has worked in DAYS 6-7 Santa Cruz Island
the European DAY 8 Rabida Island
Commission and DAY 9 Santa Cruz Island
served as a member
DAY 10 Quito
of the European
Parliament. He has
received the WHAT’S INCLUDED
Greenpeace Prize for O Internal flights in Ecuador (flight from Quito to
Outstanding
Services to the San Cristóbal Island)
Environment, as well O One night’s bed-and-breakfast stay in Quito
as the RSPB Medal and transfers
and WWF’s Leaders
O Seven-night full-board cruise aboard the
of the Living Planet
Award. Coral I yacht
An ambassador for O English-speaking National Park guides
The Galápagos O Tourist card and National Park fee
Conservation Trust,
O Talks by Stanley Johnson
Stanley is the author
of many non-fiction
works on the BOOKING DETAILS
environment, as well The dates: 7–16 May 2019
as numerous novels.
The price: From £4,745pp*
Call 0808 163 9447 to find out more, or visit
wanderlust.co.uk/GalapagosJourney
OUR TRAVEL PARTNERS
*Price based on two sharing an entry-level cabin. Price does not

include international flights to Quito. Itinerary subject to change. Our
travel partner, Intrepid Travel, is ABTA-bonded and this trip is
ATOL-protected. Note this trip is also being promoted to readers of
LFPuntel; Konstik
The Mail on Sunday. For full terms and conditions, go to

wanderlust.co.uk/GalapagosJourney
⊲

India and
the Exotic
Marigold
Hotel
with Deborah
Moggach
⊳ ENJOY A MAGICAL TOUR OF INDIA,INCLUDING post-talk Q&A will give you the chance to ask her about
A NIGHT IN THE REAL-LIFE BEST EXOTIC MARIGOLD her experiences travelling in India.
HOTEL AND PRE-DEPARTURE TALK FROM
AUTHOR DEBORAH MOGGACH The magic of India
You’ll explore some of India’s best cities and sights with
India is a mesmerising country full of contrasts, local guides and enjoy authentic experiences – from the
colour and chaos. An assault on the senses in every beauty of the Taj Mahal at sunrise to the Amber Fort and
way, it boasts unmissable sights, and people who make it City Palace in the ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur, the
one of the most life-afirming nations in the world. It’s this delights of Delhi, and Udaipur’s lakes, gardens
mix that inspired Deborah Moggach to write the novel that and palaces.
would become the hit film The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel,
and our unique tour follows in the footsteps of Judi Dench, India’s heritage hotels
Bill Nighy and Maggie Smith’s endearing characters. You’ll be staying in the most characterful
As well as visiting some of India’s most spectacular heritage hotels, including The Claridges in Delhi
monuments – including the Taj Mahal and Chittorgarh with its spectacular gardens; the characterful
Fort, a World Heritage Site – you’ll spend the night in the Narain Niwas Palace in Jaipur; the 16th-century
Ravla Khempur in Rajasthan, the real-life Best Exotic Castle Bijaipur; and, of course, the Ravla
Marigold Hotel. Your trip also includes the chance to meet Khempur, the real Best Exotic Marigold Hotel.
Deborah for an exclusive talk, as well as taking in Delhi,
Jaipur and Udaipur, the ‘Venice of the East’. Included meals and experiences
Most meals are included and the majority will
HIGHLIGHTS be taken at our expert local guides’ favourite
Talk from Deborah Moggach restaurants – you’re certainly guaranteed
Best-selling novelist Deborah will give a fascinating a good curry! You’ll also enjoy excursions
pre-tour talk about how she wrote the book These such as a private bullock cart ride through the
Foolish Things, which was later adapted into the countryside, and high tea at Castle Kanota,
much-loved film The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. The the venue for the Viceroy Club in the film.

JOURNEYS
EXPERT BIO
EXCLUSIVE TRIPS
DEBORAH
MOGGACH
A novelist and
screenwriter,
Deborah Moggach is
the author of These
Foolish Things,
which was later
adapted into the hit
movie The Best
Exotic Marigold
Hotel, starring
Academy Award-
winners Judi Dench
and Maggie Smith.
Her 2005 ITINERARY
screenplay for
director Joe Wright’s Day 1 Delhi
adaptation of Pride Day 2 Agra and Taj Mahal
and Prejudice was Day 3 High tea at Castle Kanota
nominated for
Day 4 The ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur
a BAFTA. She is the
author of 18 novels Day 5 Bijaipur
and was awarded an Day 6 Jeep ride
OBE in 2018 for her Day 7 Chittorgarh and the real Best
services to literature
and drama.
Exotic Marigold Hotel
Day 8 Boat trip on Lake Pichola
Day 9 Udaipur, ‘Venice of the East’
Day 10 Tour ends
WHAT’S INCLUDED
O All accommodation
O All domestic transport. We will be
using mini-coach minibuses, which are
comfortable, have panoramic windows
and are fully air-conditioned
O Most meals, with the majority eaten
in our experts’ favourite restaurants.
O Full services of a Wild Frontiers Tour
Leader working with local guides
O All entrance fees
O Free time to relax and explore at your
own pace
BOOKING DETAILS
The dates: 14-23 Feb 2019
The price: From £1,925pp*
Call 020 8003 7524 to find out
more, or visit
wanderlust.co.uk/MarigoldJourney
OUR TRAVEL PARTNERS
*Price based on two sharing. Price does not include

international flights out from UK. Itinerary subject to
change. Our travel partner, Wild Frontiers, is ATOL and
ABTOT-bonded. Note this trip is also being promoted to
readers of Woman&Home. For full terms and conditions,
go to wanderlust.co.uk/MarigoldJourney

WE
r
be
NO T
! em
VO
v
No
th
30
el Awards 2019
by
rn
tu
Re
e your travels. NOTE: Your answers should relate to travel undertaken since September 201
o four responses, in no particular order, scoring each on a 1-5 satisfaction rating, where:
1 = Dreadful, 2 = Poor, 3 = OK, 4 = Good, 5 = Excellent
1. COUNTRIES VISITED? Score 8. Please score any of the following TRAVEL GUIDEBOOK SERIES
______________________________ _______ that you have used on the same 1-5 scale:
______________________________ _______
______________________________ _______ AA ______ Frommer’s ______
______________________________ _______ Blue Guides ______ Insight ______
Bradt ______ Lonely Planet ______
2. CITIES VISITED? Score Cadogan ______ Marco Polo ______
______________________________ _______
Cicerone ______ Rough Guides ______
______________________________ _______
______________________________ _______ Dorling Kindersley/ Time Out ______
______________________________ _______ Eyewitness ______ Trailblazer ______
Footprint ______ Other (please specify) ______
3. TOUR OPERATORS USED? Score
______________________________ _______
______________________________ _______ 9. Name your favourite TELEVISION OR RADIO travel programme/
______________________________ _______ series of the past 12 months
______________________________ _______
4. BEST UK TRAVEL DESTINATION? Score

(e.g. town, national park, area) 10. Please score any of the TRAVEL CLOTHING/EQUIPMENT
______________________________ _______ BRANDS that you have used on the same 1-5 scale
______________________________ _______
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______________________________ _______ Bergans _____ Patagonia ______
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5. AIRLINES USED? Score Bridgedale ______ Rab ______
______________________________ _______
Columbia ______ Regatta ______
______________________________ _______
______________________________ _______ Craghoppers ______ Rohan ______
______________________________ _______ Fjallraven ______ Sherpa ______
Jack Wolfskin ______ Smartwool ______
6. UK AIRPORTS USED? Score Keen ______ Sprayway ______
______________________________ _______
Lowe Alpine _____ The North Face ______
______________________________ _______
______________________________ _______ Mountain Hardwear ______ Other (please specify) ______
______________________________ _______ Osprey _____
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______________________________ _______
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______________________________ _______ Save time and vote online at
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Please fill in your name and address in the space below:
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is
Tra vice
Solving all your travel needs and dilemmas
CUT OUT
AND KEEP
POCKET
158
PAGE
GUIDES
164 P171
PAGE
Reader travel tips
You give us the inside
skinny on exploring Travel gear: cabin-approved bags
Hong Kong and Macao We put eight new bags to the test, to find out
which of these cracking cases best suits that
eternal travel dream: going hand luggage only!
160
PAGE
Just back from...

The latest dispatches
from you, dear reader,
reporting on gorilla
trekking in Uganda
161
PAGE
Travel health
Some travellers
think they can skimp
162
PAGE
on costly rabies
jabs, but as Dr Jane
(right) explains: the
blood-curdling
Ask the experts Our travel gurus ready their wits
consequences may
to answer your queries on: responsible travel, wild
167
just lead you to
PAGE
Guyana and finding adventure on the Norfolk coast

rethink your plans
The big read:
168
Simon Reeve
PAGE
»
Why adventurer (and
Wanderlust reader
favourite) Simon
Reeve’s latest is his Instant expert: Day of the Dead
bravest tale yet, as No, it isn’t just Mexican Halloween!
he charts his early Get to grips with Latin America’s
career growing pains; most ghoulish festival, and discover
plus the latest travel a celebration with plenty of life;
reads reviewed… plus three other festivals of the
dead worth travelling for…

Travel
tips
YOUR TIPS ON...
HONG KONG & MACAO
The golden path

Stroll past the statues
that line the way leading
to the Ten Thousand
Buddhas Monastery
From wandering the European-style cobbles of Macao to treading the wild fringes of Hong Kong,
we round up your tips for making the most of a pair of Chinese regions that are full of surprises…
Travel wisely there’s intricate Buddhist temples Chinese history. Here, you’ll notice
Hong Kong Island and the A-Ma statue – goddess of a much slower pace of life, with the
“Get an Octopus card as soon as the sea – to explore. One great trail beginning at Fung Ying Seen
you get of the plane. You can load place to try out is the original Lord Koon, a magnificent Taoist temple.”
it up with cash for use on trains, Stow’s Bakery, where you can grab Michael Tang
buses, boats and even in shops. one of their famous egg tarts.”
Just swipe at the turnstiles and go!” Hannah Birt Take a lofty leap
Bronagh McLoughlin Peninsula, Macao
Slow it down “The SkyJump of Macao Tower is
Grab a creamy tart New Territories, Hong Kong a must. It’s a controlled adrenalin
Coloane, Macao “For a breather from the fast pace Escape the crowds rush that isn’t as scary as a bungee
“One of the best small regions in of Hong Kong, take to the Lung Reader Michael Tang at jump. Plus, you get amazing views
Macao to visit is Coloane village. Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail. It’s a hidden Hong Kong’s walled village from the tower and it’s much
of Kun Lung Wai, one of few
Its streets are lined with colourful gem of a walk back in time through surviving fortified towns quicker than taking the lift!”
Portuguese-style buildings, and 800 years of Hong Kong and in the New Territories Kerry White

READER TRAVEL TIPS DISCOVER
Trade Buddha
for Buddha
New Territories, Hong Kong
“It goes without saying that
the Tian Tan Buddha on Lantau
Island is a must-see, but I’d also
recommend the Ten Thousand
Buddhas Monastery (pictured),
near the Sha Tin MTR station on
the mainland. It’s a steep walk
with lots of steps but well worth
it, as the views, pagoda and the
thousands of Buddha statues
lining every path and building
are amazing!”
Clemma Tagg
Dine on dumplings festival, with parades, dragon

Taipa, Macao dancing, local market stalls and Explore Macao’s twin heritage
“Head to Old Taipa village for local so many steaming buns to try!” “Be sure to visit Macao on a day trip
food. Explore the smaller streets Annapurna Mellor from Hong Kong Harbour. Macao
and buy some dumplings to eat. was under Portuguese rule for 400
You really feel like you’re in Asia.” Go on a romantic stroll years before it was handed back to China, as
Toby Hawker Peninsula, Macao its Macanese cuisine – a fantastic fusion of
“Located in the west of Macao’s city, Portuguese and Chinese flavours – attests.
Enjoy your fair there’s an alley which translates as Even the street names here are written in
share of buns ‘Love Lane’, adjacent to the steps of both languages, and you can explore the
Cheung Chau, Hong Kong Ruins of St Paul’s. The buildings are legacy of its dual heritage in landmarks like
“One of my favourite island tastefully painted in pink, yellow the Ruins of St Paul’s and the A-Ma Temple.”
experiences was on Hong Kong’s and light green colours, and it’s a Hattie Seal, Tucan Travel
Cheung Chau, when I visited during good spot for both couples and any In association with
the annual Bun Festival. The whole admirers of interesting architecture.”
island was transformed into a family Ksenia Shigaeva
Chase a dragon
New Territories,
Hong Kong
“Escape Hong Kong’s cities
to walk the Dragon’s Back,
a stunning ridge line with
beautiful coastal views,
which descends to Shek O
Beach – the best bit of sand
in the region. A beer and
a bite to eat here is a great
way to finish the day and
experience a very different
side to Hong Kong.”
Peter De’Ath
Visit our website at

wanderlust.co.uk
to submit your for tips: next
month’s topic is ‘safaris’

DISCOVER READER REPORT
Your tales of…
UNEXPECTED
ADVENTURES
GOING BRAZILIAN
IN NEW YORK CITY
“I was in New
York City for the
weekend when
I got lost and stumbled
into the Brazilian Day
celebrations. It was
amazing! The people, the
food, the music; all of it was
fantastic and I’d
recommend it to anyone.”
Lorraine Tinsley
SECRET CASCADE
“Halfway through our
Costa Rica road trip, we
thought a stopover at
Uvita village would be
uneventful. But our
guesthouse host took us on
a surprise trip to a beautiful
waterfall, which we had all
to ourselves.”
Caroline Lywood
FEELING THE HEAT

JUST BACK FROM... “We were surrounded by
Uganda
a herd of elk in Iceland –
which had huddled around
our coach for warmth
– when we went to see
the northern lights.”
Reader Nandini Chakraborty recalls nine Rowan Parfree
days’ trekking with primates in Uganda
BIRTHDAY BIKER
The highlight: The gorilla trek – especially the and the Rwenzori Mountains have some steep “My wife and I had a pillion
experience of being gently pushed aside by ascents. Make sure of your fitness levels before tour of Hanoi, and that day
a silverback as he passed between me and another you try to squeeze too much into your itinerary. happened to be my driver’s
visitor, trying to get to a fresh patch of greens. I wish I’d known... I wish I had worn an action daughter’s birthday, so he
Must see: I seem to be repeating myself here, camera during parts of the Rwenzori trek and the took us to his flat to join in
but if you do one thing in Uganda, then the gorilla hikes. The steepest and most exciting with the celebrations.
choice is pretty obvious – go trekking to see parts do not give you much scope to film, but We had a great time
the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. they’re the ones that I wish I had a record of. eating homemade
Top tip: Be sure to take a porter on the gorilla Anything else? Uganda is a lovely country, yet it spring rolls with his
trek, even if you are super fit. You contribute to needs tourism to support the economy and to friends and family.”
the local economy, engage local people with preserve some invaluable assets for the world. Mike Steward
these lovely creatures and help to preserve
a part of nature that needs our assistance to Go online to share your
survive. The porters also carry your bags and wanderlust.co.uk travel tales with us on
help you along paths that are steep, slippery Just got back from somewhere next month’s topic:
and are hardly discernable at some points. amazing? Visit wanderlust.co.uk or email ‘quirky accommodation’
Cautionary tale: The gorilla trek is strenuous us at [email protected]

HEALTH DISCOVER
Travel
Dr Jane Wilson-H
Nepal; you can
www.wilson-how
owarth lives in
read her blog at
arth.com
Clinic
with Dr Jane
Travellers often ask if pre-trip rabies immunisations are ‘worth it’,
but their true value is pretty inescapable, says Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth
To pay or not to pay, are high and such clinics and

that is the question hospitals are accessible. If,
Rabies is one of the few diseases however, you will be heading
that scares the pants off me. Once downriver in the Amazon or
symptoms begin, it is untreatable. into the high Himalayas, then
Not only is there absolutely no excellent clinics in the capital
hope of survival but the virus won’t really be much help to you.
stimulates the brain’s fear centres Medics advise that after any
so victims are scared to death – bite, a victim should find a clinic
terrified even of their own saliva. immediately, but many people
Pre-travel jabs avoid the painful decide to risk it, and then, thinking
Rabies Immune Globulin (RIG) it is too late to get the jabs, don’t ever
injection that is needed (with access medical help. The incubation
five other injections) post exposure period for rabies – which is also
but may not be available at your the interval in which preventative
destination. Thus pre-travel rabies treatment is effective – is very
not only hugely reduces risk from variable: it is somewhere between
the disease and worries about four days and perhaps three months
substandard treatment overseas or more. It depends on the severity of
but cuts necessary post-bite the bite, whether the virus has been
injections from six to two. deposited in or very close to a nerve,
The vaccine’s bad reputation is and also the distance from the bite
perhaps because of the 14 injections to the brain. For example, a man
that were once given into the nipped on a fingertip by a bat
abdomen daily after a bite. These commonest route is from a dog Just a little prick! in Texas died six weeks later.
have long been superseded, though, bite or a scratch or nip from a bat, Bats are just one
potential carrier of
and now immunisation isn’t any but any mammal can carry rabies. rabies you might The final word
more painful than other travel jabs. A wild animal that is inexplicably encounter, although Rabies immunisation is always
The only downside is the cost. The tame is suspect, and even a lick any mammal can worth considering, and I would
carry the disease;
pre-travel schedule is jabs on days on an area of inflamed skin (for (right) modern encourage travellers to spread the
1, 7 and 21 at around £60 each. It is example, eczema or sunburn) post-bite rabies jabs word. It is never too late to seek
are far less painful
likely, though, that once you have could lead to infection. advice if you have been bitten
than the 14 injections
had one such primary course (plus to the abdomen that or scratched on your trip, and the
one booster), you will be immune The alternative travellers used to get potential dangers of not doing so
for life. Although whenever there Some people decide that they won’t far outweigh any excuses not to.
has been contact with a potentially bother with rabies protection but Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth and
rabid animal, two more injections will plan to seek clinical help if four fellow travellers have just
are recommended. bitten or scratched. That strategy launched their anthology
Unlike diseases that are spread is probably okay, but only if you 50 Camels and She’s Yours,
Getty Images
in air droplets, you will probably are on a short trip or are visiting which is available on Amazon;
know if you risk rabies. The a country where clinical standards details at www.wilson-howarth.com

DISCOVER
Ask the experts

Seeing the world while trying to make it a better place; coming face to snout with Guyana’s
wildlife; and finding our feet on the Norfolk coast – our experts put you in the know…
EXPERTS TRAVEL THE WORLD AND DO

SOME GOOD ALONG THE WAY
Q I’m looking to take

a sabbatical from work and
want to do something around
responsible travel. Suggestions?
James Smith, via email
A When it comes to ‘green travel’,

there are diferent ways to
approach it. A sustainability-focused
Claire Antell way is to volunteer on a biodynamic
Travel writer and or organic farm via an organisation
author of Bradt’s like World Wide Opportunities on
Guyana guidebook Organic Farms (WWOOF). You can
(bradtguides.com) also commit to staying at eco-friendly
accommodation as much as
possible, use ridesharing when
travelling regionally, as well as bicycle
sharing schemes where available.
Another, and often less obvious,
way to travel sustainably is by
embracing a ‘less is more’ mindset GO WILD IN THE PARKS AND
and spending longer stretches of JUNGLES OF GUYANA
time in fewer places. By doing this,
you not only reduce your carbon
footprint by literally travelling less
Q I’ve got a week in Guyana
and love wildlife. Where
should I make sure to visit?
Alexandra Brown
(fewer flights, fewer bus rides, etc), Emily Chomicz, via email.
Gap-year guru and
co-author of Chronicle
Books’ A Year Off
(chroniclebooks.com)
you also tend to consume less when
living like a local and staying put in
a single place for more than a week.
A Little-visited Guyana has
wonderful wildlife-watching
opportunities, even if you’re only
Finally, sustainable travel is not there for a week. Starting in
only about what you consume but Georgetown, you can hand-feed
also what you contribute. When manatees at the ponds of Guyana
opportunities to give back to National Park or look for the rare
a specific community, cause or blood-coloured woodpecker in the
a group of people arise, explore Botanical Gardens, which alone
them. During our year-long trip, we boasts almost 200 of the 850+
stayed in Dharamsala, India, for bird species in the country; or
nearly three weeks and volunteered travel down the coast in search of
at a Tibetan refugee centre, where hoatzin, Guyana’s national bird.
we helped with English-language From Georgetown, take a day trip
Alexander Stewart
classes. Experiences like this provide by plane to the spectacular Kaieteur
Author of Trailblazer’s
Norfolk Coast Path & a very diferent level of satisfaction, Falls, almost five times the height of
Peddars Way guidebook beyond the foundational enjoyment Niagara. Here you may also see the
(trailblazer-guides.com) you get purely from travelling. orange Guianan cock-of-the rock
Alexandra Brown and the tiny golden rocket frog,

ASK THE EXPERTS DISCOVER
DISCOVER THE NORFOLK COAST
Q What day walks along the

Norfolk coast incorporate
the most variety of landscapes?
Daniel Judd, via email
A This peaceful, undramatic

countryside is full of subtle
charms, picturesque villages, wild
shores and secret spaces. It all adds
up to number of great day walks.
For a short trip, try Ringstead to
Old Hunstanton (6.5km), where the
classic farmland of the final sections
of the Peddars Way can’t prepare
which spends its whole life on one moment, there’s also one of a handful you for the beauty of the coast as
leaf of the giant tank bromeliad. of accessible harpy eagle nests, the you wander beach and boardwalk.
Flying or driving into the interior, largest raptor in the Americas. A longer trek is Brancaster to
you can stay in one of the rainforest Top of the trip with a river journey Wells (20.75km), from salt-marshes
lodges, such as Atta Rainforest to Karanambu, home of giant otters, to the sands at Holkham. Explore
Lodge. This is located by the giant anteaters, countless birds, pine-backed beach before strolling
Iwokrama Canopy Walkway, a great giant water-lilies and incredible the shore and a forested section to
spot to see and hear the forest come spotlighting trips on the river at a causeway that leads to the town.
alive at dawn or dusk and catch night. Here you can see black Some of the most spectacular
a glimpse of some of its many caiman as well as participate in marshes can be found on the Coast
species of monkey, including the collecting research data. You may Path from Stifkey to Cley (11.25km),
Shutterstock
red howler, the loudest mammal in even spot an elusive jaguar. passing arguably the best bird
Miller time!
South America. Nearby, at the Claire Antell reserves in the region, with Blakeney (clockwise from top right)
Point dominating the horizon. And The view along the River
finally, Sea Palling to Winterton-on- Glaven in Cley, Norfolk,
really takes the breath
Sea (10.5km) is a wild and empty away; Guyana’s Kaieteur
coastline with beautiful beaches Falls even puts Niagara in
and the bonus of a seal colony at the shade; working on an
organic farm is a fine way
Horsey, right on the shore. to see the world and do
Alexander Stewart some good along the way
Insiders’guide to...
GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS
Vicky Boughton, Senior Product and
Commercial Manager at Exodus Travels,
reveals her tips for a truly wild escape…
Where to go? All of the islands of the Gálapagos have their

own appeal, but Española is the oldest and overflows with
endemic flora. Sea lions litter the sands of Gardner Bay,
with the most colourful iguanas in the islands found here.
Best way to get around? Join a small-group boat cruise to

see the full contrasts of this unique habitat. Boats alternate
their itineraries around a two-week loop of the archipelago,
giving you the chance to see lava fields, cactus forests,
volcanic craters, mangrove lagoons and turquoise waters.
Wildlife highlight? Snorkelling with sea turtles blew

me away! Watching them glide through the water, only
resurfacing to take rasping breaths of air, was wonderful.

Travel gear
the fo
out on
llo w
the
lar
in
ro
ge
ad
Pho
see how th
h took
ebe Smit cases
Editor-at- g cabin-approved ped.
ey co with Phoebe Smith
When Wanderlust began, our founder travelled around South America with just a single piece
of hand luggage – choose the right one these days and you, too, can go cabin-approved only…
Size Extras are persuaded to part with your

With airlines decreasing and Brands vie for your love with hard-earned cash, do consider
increasing luggage allowances added-value additions ranging if you really need them all.
all the time, it’s dificult to keep from combi locks built into
track (not that we’re referring to cases, to rugged wheels and the Handles
any particular Irish budget airline). ability to expand or contract the All cases tested here feature
But do check the dimensions fit inner capacity. But before you a single or double telescopic
– pardon the pun – with most handle, which allows you to tip
airlines so you’re allowed to fit and wheel your luggage. Single
them into the overhead locker or ones take up less room but can
under the seat in front of you. make the case harder to
manoeuvre; doubles eat up
Unpacked weight internal space but make moving
Vital to consider. With most it around easier. Also look for
allowances hitting the scales at multiple grab handles: these
7kg to 10kg, every gram your make the bag easier to pick up
bag weighs pre-packing is one or lift up into lockers on planes.
less for your vital equipment.
Wheels
Organisation Two wheels mean you have to tip
Some will come with organiser to roll; four means you can simply
pockets, specially padded push or pull. More wheels means
sleeves for laptops and tablets more weight but greater stability.
and vented sections to keep – it’s always a compromise.
wet/dry or clean/dirty clothes
apart. Weigh up if these things
are important to you, as having Visit our website at
wanderlust.co.uk/191
them can often increase cost to read longer reviews of
and grams on the scales. the following luggage
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memory products, trusted by consumers all around the globe. If you’re travelling
or taking the holiday of a lifetime, you need to be confident that your kit won’t let you down. SanDisk has a
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want to preserve those precious photos, SanDisk’s range of back-up solutions will give you peace of mind.
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GEAR GURU DISCOVER
VALUE
BUY
CRAGHOPPERS AMERICAN TOURISTER ANTLER

Commuter Cabin Luggage 40L, £80 Soundbox Spinner Expandable 41L, £115 Global DLX, £155
This pared-down, soft-sided budget wheelie is This is a good price for a four-wheeled, hard-sided A slightly heavier case (2.75kg; sixth-lightest), but its
neither heavy (2.25kg; third-lightest on test) nor case, though it has fewer organisational features twisting double-telescopic handle is great for use
pricey, but has all you need for a break. It’s easy to than others here. Fourth-lightest (2.55kg), it is also on two/four wheels, while the TSA-approved inbuilt
pack, and while the fabric doesn’t feel as hardy as handily expandable (via a zip), increasing capacity lock is good for US travel. It’s just a shame the pole
some, it does the job well. www.craghoppers.com from 35.5L to 41L. www.americantourister.co.uk takes packing room down to 40L. www.antler.co.uk
LOWE ALPINE
Adventure Travel Roll On 40L, £140
A good all-rounder and fifth-lightest on test (2.6kg).
Two all-terrain wheels and extra-wide handles make
hauling this a breeze, while a tamper-proof zip and
a pair of exterior straps convert it to a backpack
– all at a reasonable price. www.lowealpine.com
8
of th e be s t...
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(32L) that splits into rolling hand luggage (32L) and means fewer features despite the price – eg. it has Great features (an expandable capacity goes from
a holdall/backpack (35L). Extras (lockable zips, four single, not double, wheels. It is hard sided, though, 44.6L to 58.5L) and well-thought through, but it’s just
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(2.9kg; second-heaviest). www.eaglecreek.eu inbuilt TSA-approved lock. www.samsonite.co.uk travelling in economy class! www.briggs-riley.com

DISCOVER ADVICE
How to Whatyou
reallyneed…
O Footwear – the most important
item. Think practical and comfy:
PACK FOR HAND black trainers or black walking
shoes, plus a pair of sandals.
LUGGAGE-ONLY O Two tops (thick T-shirts, blouses,
TRAVEL shirts) – black and/or white usually.

O Sleepwear – a T-shirt, vest or cami
double as an extra layer, if needed.
O Two pairs of trousers (or one and a
skirt), one of which turns into shorts.
O Two pairs of underwear/socks.
In 1992, Lyn Hughes travelled for So, as detailed on page 98, for O A warm layer – a fleece, down jacket
six months taking just a 30-litre our 1992 South American jaunt we or hoodie can also fill in as a pillow.
daypack. It was the trip that not decided to go hand luggage only. O Toiletries – what you really need.
only saw the inklings of what It turned out to be liberating. No Liquids must be no more than
would become the UK’s first travel worries about things being stored 100ml; pick up refills en route.
magazine take form, but it also out of sight on public transport. O Cables, chargers, universal plug.
taught her how to really travel No more fretting about keeping O Water bottle – no single-use plastic.
light – a skill every traveller should an eye on our cases in cafés or
have. She shares her tips here… busy places. No feeling vulnerable
on arriving in a strange town. Optionalextras
On my first truly big adventure – I haven’t travelled quite as light
a round-the-world trip – I’d packed since, though there have been O A swimming costume – ladies can
everything but the kitchen sink, occasions when I’ve packed too save space by using cami/knickers.
with a year’s worth of gear stufed light for the conditions – when O Hat & scarf – useful for covering up
into my bag. Then, once I was on a guide asks, ‘Where’s the rest of (culturally or for sun protection)
the road, the realisation struck that your gear?’, it’s not a good sign (see and for protecting a camera/phone.
there were actually fully stocked p101 for my ‘epic travel fails’). But O Waterproof shell – one that rolls up.
shops in all these countries – even today, I still apply the same O Shades – think cheap/replaceable,
who would have thought it? principles to my packing list (right). so you’re not worrying about them.
TOP TIP
Rolling your clothes can
be more efective than
folding, and reduces
creasing too. Packing
cubes can also force
you to pack eficiently,
protect your clothing and
help prevent wrinkles.
Shutterstock

THE BIG READ DISCOVER
Book This month’s

bookshelf is
Best of the rest
of the
Journeys to the Other
pondering its Side of the World
life choices David Attenborough
Two Roads, £25
month
In the late 1950s, Attenborough
made his name on Zoo Quest,
a TV series that followed London Zoo bods on
their business. As the series went on, it focused
more on capturing these on film in the wild,
marking the baby steps of modern wildlife docs.
Attenborough also later wrote up these early
travels, with this second batch ofering not
Step by Step:
just his clear-eyed insights and but a thrilling
The Life in My Journeys
time capsule of ‘50s/60s-era Polynesia,
Simon Reeve
Madagascar and Australia.
Hodder & Stoughton, £20
While averaging a show a year over the
Adventures for a Lifetime
last 15 years has landed Simon Reeve on Ed Stafford
the travel A-list – and propelled him into Collins, £19
Wanderlust readers’ afections – it’s had When not listing bare-cheeked
the unfortunate drawback of cutting short around a desert island (we
his literary career. Step by Step miss Naked and Marooned ),
is a reminder that Ed Staford also has a line in DIY
travel books for those looking for something
what makes
(much) more challenging for their next
Reeve’s best travelogues so entertaining adventure: it is bursting with big ideas, from wild
is his knack for picking out a compelling, e others climbs to monster drives to tracking a river to its
relevant narrative combined with a fun ke more source, but also small practical tips that can be
dose of boy’s own adventuring, a trait used for your regular travels. Naked joy!
he crafted as an investigative journalist
heir
first on The Sunday Times and then on adventures – and in life 50 Camels and She’s Yours
his acclaimed books on Al-Qaeda a Simon Reeve Various writers
Feedaread, £7.99/£3.99 (ebook)
the 1972 Munich Olympics Massacr
Full disclosure: one of the writers
There certainly are more intrepid e in this five-woman, five-continent
from his early career here. The first h anthology is long-time Wanderlust
explains how he carved out a niche f health guru Dr Jane Wilson-
ordinary beginnings in Acton, via a s Howarth. But having laid our cards on the table,
and a spiral into depression as a you this is still a refreshingly honest collection of travel
gradually finds his feet, working his vignettes. Chapters shift easily from ‘evacuating’
into yoghurt pots to touching local encounters, all
newspaper’s post room to chasing s
made possible by the relentless curiosity of five
almost falling into travel journalism
remarkable people.
As you’d expect, it’s interesting, ins
highly readable. But Reeve never for 1001 Walks/1001
at the heart of his adventures are re Road Trips to
humans in often unthinkable situati Experience
The adrenalin-pumping sections Before You Die
don’t disappoint, but you’ll find that Barry Stone/Darryl Sleath
Cassell, both £20
it’s the personal encounters that
Books like these aren’t there to be read cover to
illuminate the destinations every bit cover, nor could you cart them around the world
as much as the action does, and it’s with you. No, these two hefty titles are all about
these that linger long after you’ve ra travel inspiration and options – lots and lots of
through to the last page. Tom Hawk options. Scour through, make a list. A long list.

DISCOVER INSTANT EXPERT
A bluffers guide to... Three more

Day of the dead festivals of
the dead
That’s the Mexican Halloween, isn’t it?
Au contraire, or de lo contrario. Día de los Muertos, or the
Day of the Dead, is held around the same time but, as
visitors will quickly find out, it is less about scaring people
1 Barriletes Gigantes,
Guatemala
There are festivals similar to Day
and more about celebration. The theme is death, but it’s of the Dead across South and
Drop-dead gorgeous
a life-afirming explosion of singing, parading and revelry. Central America. In Guatemala,
Many partygoers dress
up in skeleton make-up the Barriletes Gigantes is held on
for the Day of the Dead So, they’re celebrating? All Saints Day (1 November) and is
Yes. Mesoamerican cultures saw death as a cause for marked by the making and flying
cherishing life, rather than mourning, which was seen as of huge kites (some over 12m
disrespectful. The Aztecs duly created a riotous festival wide), which are flown over the
(originally held in summer) honouring Mictecacihuatl, graves of the dead. Locals also
the mythological Lady of the Dead, who was sacrificed as prepare a fiambre, a dish of salad
an infant. For the two days of the festival, the underworld and cold cuts that can include
is said to have opened, allowing deceased souls to return more than 50 ingredients.
to Earth for a knees-up. After the Spanish colonisation of
Mexico in the 16th century, the festival fused with Christian
celebrations around All Saints’ Day (1 November; the
day after Halloween); the date changed and the festival
became a mash-up of Aztec rites and Catholic feasts.
What happens?
The prelude to the Día de los Muertos is known as the
Day of the Little Angels (1 November), which nods to the
story of Mictecacihuatl and celebrates those who died
young, with toys, milk and sweets ofered at the graves
of children. The following day (2 November) brings the
2 Qingming, China
For early April’s Qingming
Festival, known in English as
adult version, as bottles of tequila and mezcal (a liquor Tomb-Sweeping Day, Chinese
made from agave) are ofered at graves along with people pay respects to their
personal trinkets and sweets, including sugar skulls. dearly departed by sweeping
graves and making oferings,
But I thought it was all one big party? including joss sticks, joss paper
The core of the Day of the Dead is deeply personal, and food (pictured). On the day,
revolving around homemade feasts and lavishly which is based on Confucian
decorated temporary altars (ofrendas). But the teachings, people often eat
celebrations invariably spill onto the streets, where qingtuan green dumplings, filled
revellers dress up as skeletons and party hard. with red or black bean paste.
Where’s best to see this?

Just as individual celebrations are personalised, they also
vary from place to place. In the Michoacán state town
3 Obon, Japan
Obon, or simply Bon, is
a Japanese Buddhist festival
of Pátzcuaro, people from the surrounding countryside honouring peoples’ ancestral
converge on the shores of its eponymous lake, pile into spirits, held in mid-July or mid-
canoes and head to Janitzio island for an all-night vigil. August depending on the
Elsewhere, celebrations are intense across the southern region. As well as grave visits
state of Oaxaca, especially in the small city of Tuxtepec, and oferings, notable traditions
where locals create elaborate patterns in the streets from include obon dances (bon odori)
sawdust, petals, pine needles and other natural stuf. Just and hanging red lanterns outside
about anywhere in Mexico, though, you’ll find a party. houses. At the end of the festival,
floating lanterns are said to guide
Alamy
the spirits back to their world.

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& FAIRVIEW
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SHORT BREAK IN...

TROMSO,
NORWAY
The self-styled ‘Capital of the Arctic’ is about more than the northern lights – expect
humpback whales, epic mountains and lashings of Scandi cool, says Toby Skinner
T
romso’s natural gifts polar explorers, most notably built in 1916 and remains one of ASK A LOCAL
can seem almost Roald Amundsen, who took of the oldest still working in Europe. ”Reindeer-sledding
unfair. Buried deep from the city on his fateful final But the true joy of visiting with a Sami herder is
in the Arctic Circle voyage in 1928. It’s little wonder Tromso is getting out into the
an essential experience.
in northern Norway, that it was dubbed ‘the Paris of wilderness, and a boom in winter
Johan Isak Oskal, who
it’s surrounded by the soaring, the North’ in the 19th century. tourism over the past decade
skiable peaks of the Lyngen Alps But it is another nickname that has meant more to do than ever runs Tromso Arctic
and fjords that draw pods of has stuck. The self-styled ‘Capital before. As well as staples like Reindeer with his family,
humpback whales in the winter. of the Arctic’ is a cooler, livelier whale-watching with local is the real deal, and you
And, most famously, it’s slap-bang city than you might expect. The experts or reindeer-sledding get reindeer stew and
in the middle of the so-called hip cafés, microbreweries and with Sami herders, new oferings yoik singing in the lavvu
Auroral Oval, the band of the shabby-chic bars are aimed at in the past few years include the tent afterwards.”
Earth (between latitudes 65º and the city’s student population yet Tromso Ice Domes – an ice bar, Anton Heijbel,
70º north) in which the northern are a boon to visitors. The food cinema and hotel out in the wild founder of
lights hit hardest and brightest. is fresh, local and heavy on the – as well as the Aurora Spirit Pukka Travels
But what’s perhaps more fish, especially the famously distillery, which is also a base for
surprising is that this city of just muscular skrei cod that arrives RIB boat trips, axe-throwing and
76,000 residents, which lines in late winter. The cultural scene tours of Cold War-era bunkers.
two sides of a pretty fjord, is so counts a philharmonic orchestra It almost sounds blasphemous,
culturally rich. Tromso is steeped and scores of festivals, including but the northern lights streaking
in the history of the area’s Sami a film festival every January, across the Arctic sky are merely
reindeer herders, trappers and based around a cinema that was a spectacular cosmic bonus. ⊲

POCKET GUIDES SHORT BREAK
Need to know
When to go: It’s worth
a visit year round, though
from December to early
May there’ll be both
snow on the ground and
northern lights in the sky.
Getting there: Between
November and March,
Norwegian flies direct
from London Gatwick
to Tromso from £95.80
return (norwegian.com).
Getting around: While
the city is walkable, renting
a car is recommended. The
usual suspects can all be
found here; prices from
around £93 for three days.
Day 1 Where to stay: The plush
⊳ A RIB boat nature tour with Tromso Museum (NOK60/£5.50), part of In the evening, settle in for a slick waterfront Clarion Hotel
Friluftsenter (NOK1,100/£102; a larger complex (en.uit.no/tmu) dinner fjord cruise on the Vulkana The Edge is arguably the
tromso-friluftsenter.no) ofers that also includes the world’s most (NOK2,495pp; £229; vulkana.no), best large hotel in town
a great introduction. A five-hour northerly botanical garden a 1957 whaling vessel that has (nordicchoicehotels.com);
morning trip (including transfers) Next, grab a beer at Olhallen since been converted into a rustic doubles from NOK1,130pn
rewards with sightings of Arctic (mack.no/olhallen), attached to the spa boat, with hot tub, sauna and (£104). The Comfort Hotel
reindeer, white-tailed eagles and, city’s famed Mack brewery – now hammam. Steam it up below decks Xpress is its no-frills, albeit
between November and January, ‘formerly’ the northernmost in the as fjords drift by, then follow with well-located, sister; doubles
orcas and humpbacks (pictured). world after Longyearbyen took that a locavore three-course meal from NOK629pn (£58).
Back in town, discover Norway’s title. This authentic pub opened in cooked on board and, hopefully, a Where to eat:
epic expedition past at The Polar 1928 and has 67 taps of craft brews. perfect view of the northern lights. Emma’s Drommekjokken
(emmasdrommekjokken.no)
serves up a famous fish
gratin (pictured) that is
Day 2 popular with locals and
visitors alike; the equally
Start your day reindeer trekking Next, embrace the wild at Green excellent Restaurant Smak
(pictured) with Tromso Arctic Gold of Norway, in the shadow of (restaurant-smak.no) has
Reindeer, led by a Sami herding the Lyngen Alps (from NOK1,900/ set menus that utilise
family (tromsoarcticreindeer.com; £174pn; greengoldofnorway.com). wholly local ingredients.
NOK1,590/£145). Sled, feed the Take an aurora photography class, More info: visittromso.no
herd, learn about Sami culture and then head to a glass-roofed lavvu – Tromso tourist information
slurp down bidos (reindeer soup), (tent) to stargaze from your bed.
then travel back to town to ride the Or instead head south of the city to
Fjellheisen cable car (NOK210/ Tromso Ice Domes (NOK12,500/
£19; fjellheisen.no). You’ll get views £1,146pn; destinationtromso.com)
across the city both as it rises and for guided snow-shoeing and
from Storsteinen mountain ledge dinner in the wilderness, before
at the top, 421m above sea level. a night in the area’s first ice hotel.
Day 3 TOP TIP

If you’re interested in
Hire a car and drive the beautiful £11 one-way), which takes around
Lyngenfjord to the Aurora Spirit two hours. Before you cross the
capturing the northern
distillery (pictured), right on the arched Bruvegen bridge, stop to lights on camera, make
fjord (guided tours NOK299/£27; take a look at the triangular Arctic sure to bring a tripod. Set
bivrost.com/auroraspirit), where Cathedral, Tromso’s answer to the your aperture as wide as
Previous page: Alamy This page: Alamy; Aurora Spirit
you can also take RIB boat tours, try Sydney Opera House, built in 1965.
possible, and use long
axe-throwing or tour a Cold War-era Finish with a five- or six-course meal
bunker. Its award-winning gin, made at the excellent Restaurant Smak shutter speeds: usually
from 23 Arctic botanicals, is worth (from NOK845/£78), with local fish, from 1–20 seconds,
the trip, and the aquavit and vodka berries and in-house cured meats depending on the
are good, too, though make sure to the fore of the menu, then slip strength of the aurora
you’re not the one driving back. down the road for a cocktail at the
Return to the city via the little elegant Hildr (hildrgastrobar.com)
(weaker means longer
Svensby-Breivikeidet ferry (NOK122/ to toast a great trip to the Arctic. shutter speeds).

Pocket The quiet life
An orange-robed
monk strolls Wat
Papai temple –
that’s considered
a busy day in
laid-back
ravel companion Luang Prabang
RS IN...
ABANG,
S
Over the years, Luang Prabang has repeatedly been voted Wanderlust readers’ favourite city.
With its laid-back charms, temples and great food, Jeremy Head finds it easy to see why…
Before you arrive achieve. Whether that means Nothing happens particularly ASK A LOCAL
As a tightly packed spit of a city, watching the world go by over quickly in Laos, though, and “Storytelling is an
flanked on either side by the a dark local cofee or pootling you’ll have to queue, but it’s important part of our
rivers Mekong and Nam Kang, the backstreets on a bike, there a straight-forward process.
culture. A great way to
Luang Prabang has always felt are countless escapes to be There are ATMs that accept
learn more about Luang
like a hidden corner worth found in the city, on the rivers Visa and Mastercard as you exit
finding. Serene temples, sacred or out in the countryside. the terminal, though it pays to Prabang’s legends and
caves, enticing cafés, boutiques Yet despite growing popularity carry US dollars, too. Apart from history is by going to
in colonial shophouses – it’s no with visitors (and readers), for that, there are toilets and a few a story recital. Among
surprise that it has won ‘Top City’ now at least, Luang Prabang souvenir shops as you exit the other things, you’ll learn
in our Wanderlust Reader Travel remains largely untouched. How airport but little else of note. how the Phou Si mountain
Awards more times than any long this will last is anyone’s that sits at the heart of the
other destination. It’s the kind guess, so to experience it at its Getting into town city got its name ”
of place you always wish you’d most beguiling, head there now. It takes less than 20 minutes to
Sam
booked a couple more nights get into town. Many hotels ofer hotel
in, so don’t get caught out. At the airport free airport pick-up, so if you
While there’s plenty to explore Luang Prabang’s small have a place booked, check
here, the big part of this Lao international airport is located to see first. There are no public
town’s charm is its atmosphere. around 4km east of the city, and transport options, but there’s
There’s a pervading sense of UK passport holders can buy a taxi desk inside the terminal
tranquil timelessness to Luang a 30-day tourist visa on arrival with fixed fares, usually around
Prabang that few other places (see ‘Need to know’ for details). LAK50,000 (£5) per person. ⊲

POCKET GUIDES FIRST 24 HOURS
Next, make for Wat Xieng Thong,

just moments away. There’s a temple Need to know
on almost every corner here, but this
Population: 55,027
is by far the most eye-catching, with
Languages: Lao, French;
its sparkling golden doors and gem-
English is widely spoken
encrusted walls housing a serene
in tourism areas
and vast Buddha inside. Head back
Time zone: GMT+7
down main street and browse some
Int’l dialling code: +856
of the handicraft shops there, such
Visas: UK nationals can
as Ock Pop Tok (ockpoptok.com).
get 30-day visas on arrival.
Further along, you’ll stumble across
But you’ll need to bring
Café Toui, whose take on yummy
a passport photo, and it
local dishes like prawn and pumpkin
helps to have US dollars
curry makes for a perfect lunch spot.
to pay for it, as it’s typically
For a bit of history, saunter the
cheaper (US$35/£27)
Royal Palace Museum at the centre
than using Thai baht
of town. Note the contrast between
(THB1,500/£35).
the ornate public rooms and plain
Currency: Laotian kip,
bedrooms behind, and check out
currently around
the vintage car collection here, too.
LAK11,033 to the UK£.
Afterwards, stroll up the 100m-high
While it’s not encouraged,
⊲ First day’s tour Mount Phou Si nearby, which is
you can also pay with low
topped with a serene temple and
denomination US dollars
Watching tak bat (pictured), the keep a respectful distance, stay ofers panoramic views across the
and Thai Baht if you’re
morning alms ceremony that sees silent and avoid flash photography. city and the languorous Mekong.
stuck for local cash.
orange-robed Buddhist monks walk Afterwards, you’ll be in need of In the evening, browse the bustling
ATMs: ATMs are widely
silently down the streets accepting some breakfast. The French option night market, then dine at Khaiphaen
available in Luang Prabang
gifts of rice, has become a must- is to grab some cofee and the best (tree-alliance.org), which also trains
and most accept Visa and
see sight for travellers. It happens pastries in Laos at Le Banneton; street kids in hospitality, or Tamarind
Mastercard. Typically,
around 5am, so you need to be up the local choice is a bowl of steaming (tamarindlaos.com), known for its
you’re charged a fixed fee
early to even catch it. The amount of khao piak noodles from Xieng cookery classes. Finish with a cold
of LAK20,000 (£1.80) for
noisy tourists is becoming a bit of a Thong Noodle Shop. Both are on Beer Lao at funky Sa Sa Bar on the
a withdrawal. Most ATMs
problem, but there are rules to obey: the main street, Sakkaline Road. riverbank, as the Mekong rushes by.
won’t let you withdraw
more than LAK1,500,000
(around £135) at a time.
Where to stay? Credit cards: More
upmarket hotels, shops
Top end: Satri House (pictured) is great value, plus there’s a nice pool. and restaurants accept
a timeless clutch of cloistered rooms Bikes are also free, so you can pedal cards for payment, but
and villas set around tranquil pools around to your heart’s content. But many charge a fee. You’re
(satrihouse.com). It’s full of antique the best thing here is the staf: they best of paying in cash.
furniture but is luxurious without couldn’t be more friendly or helpful. Recommended
being stufy. The GM is a foodie, too, Doubles from US$69pn (£53). guidebook: The Lonely
so dine in at least once during your Budget: Villa Saykham (+856 71 254 Planet’s Laos (2017) guide
stay – the eating is top notch. 223) is perfectly located in the heart is always a useful resource
Doubles from US$135pn (£104). of the historic centre. The rooms Useful websites:
Mid range: My Dream Boutique here are both cool and likeably Travelfish.com is the
(mydreamresort.com) lies across comfy, with big beds, spacious go-to guide for all
the river but it’s not far to go. Its bathrooms and great showers. things South-East Asia.
comfy bungalows and rooms are B&B doubles from $50pn (£38). It features in-depth
information about Luang
Prabang, including plenty
Stay or go? of places to stay and eat.
Time seems to just slip by in Luang it to see its buddha-strewn grottoes. 35 375
˚C MM
Prabang, but it’s worth heading Alternatively, the backpacker mecca
into the countryside. The Kuang of Vang Vieng (pictured) is a bumpy 300
28
Si waterfalls (easily reached by seven-hour drive along precipitous
tuk-tuk, or just 45 mins away if mountain roads and ofers a nice
21 225
you hire a scooter) are a series of contrast to Luang Prabang. Set on a
Previous page: Getty Images This page: Alamy
aquamarine pools where you can river amid clumps of karst mountains
14 150
wallow and swim. There’s a fine set and rice fields, it’s Laos’ adventure
of falls at the top and a worthy Bear capital. There are thrills for all ages,
7 75
Sanctuary, too, along with a heap of including zip-lining through jungle
attractions en route, including canopy and kayaking on the water.
0 0
a Bufalo Farm and Butterfly Garden. And whether bouncing along muddy JFMAMJJASOND
Just 25km along the river, boat tracks in dirt buggies or swimming Q Rainfall (average) Temperature (average high)
trips to the Pak Ou Caves are worth in natural waterholes, it’s great fun!

Pocket Artful lodgings
St Ives is both a hub for
modern art lovers and
home to one of Britain’s
most beautiful beaches
Your cut-out and keep travel companion
A BRITISH BREAK IN...

PENZANCE & ST IVES,
CORNWALL
Take the newly revamped overnight sleeper from London and wake up on the Cornish coast,
a destination finally embracing its wild setting and artistic past, writes Andrew Cattanach
T
he south Cornish coast today, Cornwall was a haven doors after an extensive ASK A LOCAL
was drifting lazily by my for jaded urbanites. During the refurbishment and extension. “If you’re
train window, looking Second World War, artists such The building is boldly elegant, looking for
austere in the low as sculptor Barbara Hepworth inside and out, and full of works
the finest
morning light. It escaped the Blitz and made associated with the St Ives
unspoilt
certainly wasn’t the rugged, homes for themselves in the art scene, including pieces by
romantic seascape I had come fishing villages of the South-West influential figures such as Picasso, scenery,
to anticipate viewing – more like To locals, these émigrés must who inspired the young set that then I’d
an elegant abstract painting in have seemed a queer bunch, congregated around Hepworth. recommend heading
myriad shades of grey. with strange clothes and even I arrived there fresh from the along the Fal River to the
It was a fitting picture stranger ideas. For a start, the train, and while I drifted the quiet picturesque cove of Great
nonetheless. I had arrived in newcomers made abstract art, galleries, I saw, echoed in the Molunan. Access to the
Cornwall on GWR’s newly which in 1939 would have been artworks that surrounded me, the
beach is pretty steep, but
revamped Night Riviera Sleeper deemed radical by most same muted landscape I’d spied
it’s set in the shelter of St
train, avoiding the crowds and Londoners. In Cornwall it must earlier from my cabin. It fired my
the congested trafic, to explore have seemed totally of the wall. desire to explore the area further, Anthony Lighthouse, so
how the area had once been The area has long-since come visiting castle-topped islands and it’s a great, safe spot for
a European capital of modern to terms with its artistic heritage, wandering the winding paths storm watching and has
art and home to some of Britain’s however, and is now home to that wrap the coast, in search of incredible views over to
best-loved artists of the era. some exceptional museums, not not just the legacies of the artists Falmouth Harbour.”
Long before it was the least Tate St Ives (tate.org.uk), who made this region their Francesca Thomas
staycation sensation we know which recently reopened its home but their inspiration. ⊲

POCKET GUIDES BRITISH BREAK
TOP 3
CORNISH
COASTAL
WONDERS
1 Unlike larger tourist hubs
in Cornwall, the fishing
village of Mousehole has
retained its old character,
with picturesque cottages
huddled around a busy
⊳ Day 1 harbour (pictured top). It is
also the resting place of the
Starting at Penzance station, make Art Gallery and the Exchange
woman said to be the last
your way to Chapel Street where (newlynartgallery.co.uk) are devoted
person to speak only Cornish.
you can browse the vintage stores to bringing cutting-edge art to the
and second-hand bookshops. South-West and charge only a
Steckfensters (pictured right),
notable for having a Dalek in its
nominal entry fee.
From Penzance, take the one-hour
2 At the toe of Cornwall
is the open-air Minack
Theatre (minack.com).
window, is great for buying vintage coastal walk to Marazion to visit the
This classical-looking
clothes, toys and records. Penzance tidal island of St Michael’s Mount Finish at Ben’s Cornish Kitchen
venue, hewn from coastal
is also home to an art institution that (pictured top). Topped with a castle, (benscornishkitchen.com), which
rocks, hosts theatre and
rivals anything a larger city might it’s accessed either by a walkway ofers elegant but hearty dishes
musical performances
ofer. Set over two sites, Newlyn or by boat, depending on the tide. using fresh local ingredients.
during the warmer months,
but is also worth checking
out of-season and includes
Day 2 a fascinating museum.
Make your way to St Ives and visit

the Barbara Hepworth Museum
and Sculpture Garden (pictured;
Carbis Bay is without doubt
one of the UK’s most beautiful
beaches, and its luminescent
3 You can spot seals all
around the Cornish
coast, but a good place to
tate.org.uk). This Tate-run institution sands need to be seen to be start is the pier at St Ives
was once home to the famous believed. Take the path from harbour, where the
artist, and has been left more or St Ives along the coast where the resident mammals often
less untouched since her death in beach opens out before you and pop up to say hello. But
1975. Go a little inland and you’ll see you’ll find everything you need,
Leach Pottery (leachpottery.com). including the Carbis Bay Hotel.
Founded in 1920, this working Finish up with a table at Alba
ceramics studio is home to a good (alba-stives.co.uk), an old lifeboat
museum as well as a shop selling house now serving up Michelin-
world-class handmade pottery. standard food and sterling views.
The essentials
Go: Night Riviera Sleeper (gwr.com) (pictured; godolphinarms.co.uk),
trains run daily (except Sat) from where you can enjoy a warming
London Paddington to Penzance; plate of local crab mac ‘n’ cheese
Previous page: Alamy This page: Alamy; Dreamstime; Mike Searl
tickets from £114.40pp return, plus as well as great views of the castle. Where possible,
£90pp for a double cabin berth. A Cornish tipple: The Admiral travel around using
A room for the night: Pedn Olva Benbow Inn in Penzance (01736
public transport. The
(pednolva.co.uk) is a lively hotel, 363448) may look unassuming on
bar and restaurant close to St Ives the outside, but inside it’s a maze roads around the main
harbour. Perched above the rocks of maritime memorabilia and suits attractions are small and
overlooking the Atlantic, rooms are of armour. Check out the dining can easily get congested,
light and homely with grand views. room at the back, which has a wall making getting from
Grab a local bite: After you’ve made from part of a Portuguese
A to B a nightmare
spent the afternoon at St Michael’s man-of-war ship, not to mention
Mount, hit the Godolphin Arms the Cornish guest beer on tap. during busy periods.

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DISCOVER THE KNOWLEDGE
Lessons from
the road
with Julie Gabbott
Wanderlust World I grew up in my family bed and
Guide Award winner breakfast in Preston, Lancashire. Overland girl
Our guests would put pins on a map of the (left) Julie out on tour;
Julie Gabbott leads world, showing where they were from. When
(this) being raised aloft
by porters on the slopes
overlanding tours for I turned 19, I set of to explore as many of those of Mount Kilimanjaro
places as I could. That led to years of wandering
Dragoman. She shares and, eventually, to becoming an overlanding
what she’s learned guide leader with Dragoman. I found my calling.
from her time out
I think that everyone should try
on the road… overlanding at least once in life.
I take travellers across continents in specially
built overland trucks, which are designed so
that we can camp anywhere. You really get
to experience countries at the ground level,
interacting with locals and sharing the
experience with like-minded individuals. People
often form everlasting friendships. I know I have.
a heavy engine cylinder head – but before we
On a trip, every day is diferent. knew it, there were 20 locals helping us. When
You could spend it riding a horse onto the you’re on the road, there tend to be people ready
shores of Lake Malawi or hiking along the Great to help, even if it’s with a smile or a cup of chai.
Wall of China, and your place of rest could be
a local guesthouse, a yurt or even a wild camp. There are always surprises.
During a Kilimanjaro climb recently, the porters
I can’t pick a favourite journey. suddenly decided to lift me up in the air and
My most recent memorable moments have been bounce me up and down while everyone else
in Africa: summiting Mount Kilimanjaro, meeting sang and clapped. I couldn’t stop laughing.
mountain gorillas in Uganda, canoeing the
Zambezi and wild camping along on the way – There can be awkward moments.
we could hear lions roaring through the night. While crossing the border into Turkmenistan,
a group of customs oficials inspected our truck.
Everyone gets stuck in together. One of the trainee oficials picked up a tampon
We all help with setting up camp and cooking and asked what it was. He left a little flustered.
the meal. As leader, it’s up to me to set an
example, so I’m always on hand to lend a tent To be a good guide, I think you
peg or cook up a stew. There’s something really need to enjoy meeting people.
special about sitting around a campfire, sharing I’ve learned so much from the people who’ve
stories and experiences under a sky full of stars. been on my trips. Part of what I love about
camping the job is that you never stop learning.
bezi, we I think people are surprised to
see a girl servicing our trucks. For my next trip, I’d like to go into
s roaring But it’s all part of the job. On a recent trip in India, space. Richard Branson, if you’re reading
through the night a colleague and I were struggling with lifting this and need an enthusiastic guide, I’m in!
184 wanderlust.co.uk November 2018 WorldGuideAwards.com

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Behind the scenes

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– and how you’ve changed with it

8 Your letters & photos

58 World Guide Award winner Julie

Ecuador p14, 28, 76

33 Breaking down the impossible art Luang Prabang p173

168 Instant expert

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[email protected] @wanderlustmag wanderlusttravelmagazine @wanderlustmag

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“Two roads diverged in a wood and I –

Visitors exploring Vietnam will soon encounter the

TOP OF THE WORLD

IN OUR MIDST in the 1400s at Tokyo’s Gotokuji

NZ’S COASTAL PACIFIC

close in 2016. It reopened last year for freight

wanderlust.co.uk November 2018 17

ARMY KNIFE’ microfiber cloth earplugs

JACKET stylus footrest

Streamline your travels with the Baubax 2.0

inflatable foot rest (yes, really), not to mention

US$225 (£169); baubax.com pocket pockets

n initiation ceremony yet-sustainable lodges along

18 wanderlust.co.uk November 2018

There’s a moose loose…

Explore wild Canada with

For more information, visit www.grandamericanadventures.com/yukon wanderlust.co.uk November 2018 19

Food | Culture | Adventure

How the Skeleton

wanderlust.co.uk November 2018 21

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Jet Airways already

IF YOU ONLY DO THREE THINGS

Get outdoors and explore…

PAY HOMAGE TO SEE THE GATEWAY HEAD FOR THE

ABKHAZIA | ALBANIA | AZORES | BALTICS | BALKANS | BELARUS | BHUTAN

Order your copy today on

streetsnack your borders extend most of south-

theoldworld emerged from the empire’s outposts in

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