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 I have been inspired
and privileged to know and love so many young women.
My two daughters, two goddaughters, and the many
wonderful friends of my children and staff members have
filled my heart with love and joy. It is in watching these
young women find their voice, make conscious choices
and contributions, question, learn, listen, and make their
way through life that moves me. These amazing women
are filled with insight and the desire to grow, learn, and
change. I dedicate this book to all these beautiful women,
who define what beauty truly means.
CONTENTS
Introduction
How to Use This Book

PART ONE:
The Business of Skin
PART TWO:
Caring for Your Skin
PART THREE:
Ingredient and Term Definitions
PART FOUR:
DIY Skin Care Recipes
DEEP-CLEAN CLEANSER
EVERYDAY CLEANSER
PH-BALANCING TONER
BIOFLAVONOID TONER (WITH NEROLI)
DEEP-CLEANING MASK
SKIN-RENEWING MASK
FACIAL SCRUB
BODY SCRUB
FACIAL OIL
BODY OR BATH OIL

References
Acknowledgments
About the Author
 Although I started my career
working as a model in front of the camera, I decided to go to
cosmetology school to learn what the hair and makeup
artists were doing that made me look so fantastic. Instead, I
fell deeply and passionately in love with skin.

Skin is not only our largest organ; it is also literally the barrier between
us and the world. It helps ward off illness and can even be a diagnosis
tool for many ailments that first affect the skin. At first, I did not realize
how deeply affected people are when struggling with issues such as
severe acne, redness, or eczema, for example, but I have learned that
the health of one’s skin can also be a factor in one’s mental health.
When I was first able to transform a young woman’s skin with my own
acne-fighting products, her emotions were so profound I realized that
working with skin is much more than skin-deep. This young woman,
who had been embarrassed to be seen in public, who made herself
into a social outcast, became more confident. She started going to
school daily, and her depression lifted. She’d been so distraught about
her appearance, and to see her change only solidified my passion for
working with skin. It made me understand that working with people’s
skin makes it possible for them to see beyond their reflection in the
mirror. Early on in my career, I discovered I couldn’t get the results I
wanted from the products available on the market, so in 1997 I
formulated Sumbody, one of the very first all-natural skin care brands.
This was long before the onslaught of independent beauty and the
popularity of being “all natural.” I am a trained aesthetician and the
cosmetic formulator behind Sumbody, for which I source each and
every ingredient and manage the manufacturing of all our skin care
products.
We’ve seen the momentum for eating healthy catapult to significant
levels—health food grocery stores have become big chains, when
before they used to be tucked-away treasures. Culturally, we are more
aware of the hazards of eating fast foods, processed foods, and white
sugar, and we are replacing them with fresh fruits and vegetables,
whole grains, and beans. But what you may not know is that we absorb
more toxins through our skin. If you’re eating an organic apple but
soaking in a tub of chemical soup, you’d be better off eating a
conventionally grown apple and soaking in nontoxic ingredients. If you
need evidence of how simple it is to absorb substances through our
skin, consider nicotine patches, pain relief patches, and even birth
control patches. Transdermal penetration is a fantastic vehicle for
many things. Substances can penetrate on their own, but in the
cosmetic industry we use “penetration enhancers” such as propylene
glycol to help all the ingredients in a product get into your skin deeper
than it might on its own.

My goal is to make it simple for everyone to understand the options and

decide what’s best for their skin.

Some years ago, I was the keynote speaker at the Society of Cosmetic
Chemists. The topic was “What Is Natural?” Before I spoke, a group of
chemists had debated this very topic, so when I gave my speech,
I said, “I couldn’t have planned this debate any better to illustrate my
point. If we as a group of cosmetic chemists cannot agree on what
‘natural’ means, how can we expect the public to understand and
make choices in line with their personal beliefs? If we as an industry
do not have better laws regarding what we can say on a label—such
as ‘all natural,’ ‘hypoallergenic,’ and ‘eco-friendly’—how can we expect
the consumer to interpret a label? You shouldn’t need to go back to
chemistry class to understand what is in a product.” With this book, my
goal is to make it simple for everyone to understand the options and
decide what’s best for their skin. I want to begin by making an
important distinction: Not all things that are natural are good for you,
and not everything that’s synthetic is inherently toxic. Natural
substances, like cyanide, for example, can be extremely harmful. Some
synthetic substances, such as hyaluronic acid, are actually derived
from natural sources. I believe it is necessary to change the
conversation from “natural” versus “synthetic” to “healthy” versus
“harmful.”
As we discussed, skin is both your largest organ and a pathway for
chemicals to enter your body. What you put on your skin is important.
No one can decide for you, so I am presenting you with information to
make informed choices about what you purchase and use. To keep
things simple, I suggest that you primarily use products that include
ingredients you can understand or easily identify, such as rose hip oil
and French green clay, instead of propylene glycol and sodium laureth
sulfate. Disregard what’s on the front of a brand’s label—it exists only
to sell to you—and always flip the product around to read the
ingredients list. Use this book as your source to make sure you’re
putting what’s best for you on one of your most precious organs.
 I’ve spent my career educating people
so they can make choices that align with their personal
beliefs. Even though I vehemently believe it’s important for
people to understand the negative health effects of smoking
cigarettes, I would never impose my beliefs on someone else.
What I can do is give them information (the damaging effects
of smoking) that will allow them to make an educated
choice.

The beauty industry has had backdoor access to our health without
telling us what we need to know to make the choices that work for us.
To that end, this book encompasses everything you need to
understand your skin—how it works, what it needs to stay healthy, how
to make choices aligned with your health goals, and tips and tricks of
what to avoid/look for.
Having basic knowledge about skin and what it truly needs, along with
guidelines for how to decipher the products you use, will arm you with
the tools you need to make healthy and impactful choices in skin care.
When you use the right products and understand how to care for your
skin, you’ll see your skin transform.
While the first two parts of this book talk about the what and how and
why of skin, the bulk of the book is a comprehensive list of common
cosmetic ingredients and terms. This is the backbone that will enable
you to choose products that will be effective and healthy. This book is
meant to take the guesswork and confusion out of what’s in a bottle. It
puts the power in your hands. You’ll learn where many ingredients fall
on the “good for you/not good for you” scale, and with this information
you’ll be able to better assess whether a certain ingredient is
appropriate for you.
Whether you’re looking for the right ingredients to use in your DIY
products, to understand what’s in your current skin care routine, or as a
go-to resource, this book will become an indispensable guide. It can
also help you decide what you want to keep or eliminate from your
existing routine. To address this specifically, I suggest taking all the
products you and/or your family use and placing them in separate
baskets or piles. I have been doing “green” makeovers with clients for
years, and this is the first thing I do when I start working with a client.
Even babies have their own piles of products! To do this on your own,
eliminate all products that you haven’t used in two months or more.
Then, using this guide, eliminate any products that don’t fit your skin
care or health goals. Be mindful that some products can be used for
more than one purpose—for example, a lip balm can make a great
cuticle conditioner. Some shampoos can be used as body wash, bar
soaps can be used for shaving, and, to borrow an item from the
kitchen, olive oil can be a good all-over moisturizer. This book casts a
wide net and covers many facets of skin care products, but each
element is an important piece of the whole. You’ll learn how to
identify your skin’s needs, how to address each need, and how to keep
up with your skin’s changes. You’ll receive information on how to care
for your skin, no matter your stage in life. Also included are 10 recipes
for simple yet effective DIY products. Look forward to profound
results!
 PART ONE

1 The Business of
Skin
The average person has about 20 square feet (2 square
meters) of skin covering their body. Skin shields us, surrounds
us, and holds us together. It’s a passageway to our
bloodstream, and its appearance shapes our self-image. Here
we’ll discuss the basics about skin and how the beauty
industry markets products to us.

YOUR LARGEST ORGAN

Weighing an average of 6 pounds (2.7 kilograms), your skin has two
main layers: the epidermis (outer) and the dermis (inner). It also has
the hypodermis. We’ll take a closer look at these here.

• The hypodermis (right beneath the skin) is fat that pads and
insulates.
• The dermis is the innermost layer of skin and contains nerve
endings, sweat glands, hair follicles, and blood vessels that
provide your skin with structure and support.
• The epidermis is the protective barrier. The cells in the
epidermis are continually replaced by cells from the bottom
layer. Your entire epidermis is replaced about every 27 days,
although this process slows as we age.
Put simply, healthy skin is vital for our survival—both emotionally and
physically. It is important to understand its role and relevance for our
overall health, and to learn how to properly care for it.

THE ONE THING YOU CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT

Our skin is something we often take for granted. It literally holds us
together, protects us, and helps us maintain overall health. Caring for
it is not only beneficial but is also vital, as we can’t live without it.

Protective Barrier
Every day, our skin is bombarded by things it has to defend us from:
chemicals in products we use, environmental toxins and pollutants,
harmful bacteria, viruses, parasites, harmful pathogens, antigens, and
UV radiation. And not only does our skin protect us from harmful
elements that might otherwise gain access to our internal systems, it
also must be healthy to preserve our internal fluids and organs.

Guarding Against Harm

The first place we feel pain and discomfort is the skin, which signals
the brain that there is harm present—basic examples are stepping
away from the heat of a fire before we can be burned, or moving away
from the pressure of a sharp object before it cuts deeper. Therefore,
our skin can tell us a lot about our health. Practitioners look at the skin
for early warning signs as indicators for many diseases such as lupus,
Lyme disease, and hepatitis C, which can first appear on our skin.

Comfort
Skin is your body’s natural heating and air-conditioning system. It
regulates temperature, helping avoid overheating or freezing by
maintaining a consistent inner-body temperature regardless of the
outside temperature.

Pleasure
Skin is key to so many aspects of our overall health. Touch brings us
everything from a sense of well-being and comfort to feelings of
happiness, joy, and titillation. There is nothing better than a hug from a
loved one.

Who We Are
So much of how we feel about and how we perceive ourselves is
wrapped up in our appearance. Beyond holding us together, our skin
also influences our emotions. Those who treat individuals with skin
ailments such as rosacea, acne, psoriasis, and eczema know the
emotional effect our skin has on our well-being. It can make us
depressed, unwilling to leave our homes and be around others, and
can cause anxiety and stress and limit our social life. Yet when we see
our skin conditions subside, we feel uplifted and can return to our
regular lifestyles with a more positive attitude. Healthy skin helps us
maintain our overall health.

THE MYTH OF SKIN TYPES

We have been taught to believe there are four basic skin types:
normal, oily, dry, and combination. Truthfully, skin is dynamic! It
changes constantly and can’t be boxed in. You can wake up with dry
skin and have oily skin by noon. You may have oily skin during your
teen years and excessively dry skin as you age. But beyond skin type,
it’s more important to give your skin what it needs. While there are
specific ingredients that target different skin types, there are also
commonalities in certain ingredients that benefit all types of skin.
Consider your facial moisturizer. All skin (even oily skin) needs to be
moisturized with oils that are noncomedogenic, meaning they do not
clog pores.

Often, skin types and tendencies such as acne, redness, and sensitivity
are hereditary. Learning more about your parents’ skin will be helpful
as you maintain your own.

Common Skin Issues

Skin can be affected by a variety of issues, including blemishes, acne, eczema,
psoriasis, redness or rosacea, sensitivity, hyperpigmentation, and seborrheic
dermatitis. We’ll review a few of them here, along with a few good-for-you
ingredients that can work to clear these issues.
Blemishes, blackheads, and acne. Acne is evidence of inflamed or infected
sebaceous glands and/or hair follicles.
ry activated bamboo or coconut hull charcoal and white willow bark.
Eczema/atopic eczema. This common skin condition causes patches of inflamed,
rough, and cracked skin, and blisters that are sometimes itchy. Atopic eczema
means the immune system has been affected.
ry bathing in colloidal oats and Dead Sea salt and using pure shea butter or
avocado oil.
Psoriasis. This condition speeds up the life cycle of skin cells, causing them to
build up very fast on the surface of your skin. These extra cells make scales and
red patches.
 ry bathing in colloidal oats and Dead Sea salt, using pure shea butter or avocado
oil, and using salt scrubs.
Rosacea and redness. Rosacea causes facial blood vessels to enlarge, making the
cheeks and nose flushed and red. Other issues can also cause redness, such as
sensitivity, eczema, psoriasis, and acne.
ry neroli toner and facial mists, licorice root, and any oils with high essential
fatty acid content.
General sensitivity. This issue is increasing across all age groups. Sensitivity can
be caused by the products you use; exposure to sun, wind, and water; even polluted
air. Reactions can include rashes and itching, redness, irritation, and burning.
ry olive, coconut, and avocado oils.
Hyperpigmentation In this case, patches of skin become a darker color than the
rest of your skin. It often occurs when there is an excess of melanin—the substance
that creates varying degrees of pigment.
ry raw potato, lemon juice, niacinamide, and turmeric.
Seborrheic dermatitis. This is generally seen on the scalp. It appears as scaly
patches, dandruff, and redness. It can also be found in oily areas such as your face,
sides of your nose, ears, eyebrows, chest, and eyelids.
ry coconut butter, olive leaf oil, and/or tea tree oil.

BIG BUSINESS
The personal care industry is one of the largest and fastest-growing
industries. With a vast amount of money at stake, major companies
and independent beauty businesses are constantly vying for a piece of
the action. Along with this come big marketing budgets to entice you,
the consumer, to spend your money. There are many conflicting
messages, and much is at stake. Consumer education is key.
Label Smarts
Cutting through the jargon on the front of a product label (see here)
and becoming intimate with the ingredients is vital to understanding
what you’re putting on your skin. I recommend letting go of any
associations you have about any particular brand being “natural” or
“nontoxic.” Many products have been “greenwashed” and sold in a
certain way for so long we rarely stop to consider what’s actually in
them. “Greenwashing” is a term used to describe companies that make
misleading or incorrect claims about the environmental benefits or
health status of their product. Such claims can make a product seem
more natural or environmentally friendly than it actually is. For
example, “all natural,” “eco-friendly,” “Earth safe,” and
“hypoallergenic” suggest that the product is beneficial for consumers
and the environment, but the terms are meaningless.
There are two important factors in determining whether a product is
right for you. First, look at the ingredients, research them, and decide if
they align with your health goals, and second—and most important—
see how your skin reacts to them.
Let’s take a look at a label for a common product. Note that
ingredients are listed by their amounts, from largest to smallest.
Propylene glycol (vegetable derived)
Propylene glycol is a penetration enhancer, meaning it has the ability
to cross the skin barrier and carry all the other chemicals in a product
through the skin and into the bloodstream. It’s a suspected immune
system, reproductive, skin, and respiratory toxin. Used here, it gives the
deodorant slickness to help it glide. Beyond that, there’s no real
efficacy. The “vegetable derived” simply serves to make us feel more
comfortable about this ingredient, which may have been derived from
vegetables but may also have been altered chemically for use here.
Many other substances—wax and butter bases, for example—are safer
and off er the same efficacy.

Water
In general, water is a safe ingredient. However, once you formulate or
add it to a product, you need a strong preservation system because,
depending on its source, water can contain contaminants or heavy
metals and is a breeding ground for bacteria, mold, and fungus.
Sodium stearate
This is the sodium salt of stearic acid and can be variously sourced:
coconut, palm oils, and lard, for example. It is often used to harden
soap or deodorant.

Organic Aloe barbadensis leaf juice

This is a natural, wonderful ingredient for skin care purposes. However,
many people have an allergy or sensitivity to it. Make sure you do a
patch test.

Glyceryl laurate
Like propylene glycol, this is a penetration enhancer. It could easily
have been omitted from this product and replaced with a natural
ingredient, with less harm and more benefit. However, replacing it
with a more beneficial alternative may increase the cost of the
product.

Natural fragrance
Here “natural fragrance” is meaningless. In general, if a product is truly
naturally scented, the label will specify the essential oils used. But
because here it does not, this cannot be recommended as a safe
ingredient. It’s worth noting that there has been an industry push to
make companies list all ingredients used in their scent blends, even
though this is often considered proprietary information.

Humulus lupulus (hops) cone extract

Hops are commonly used as a calming, stress-relieving agent, but here
we don’t know what carrier the hops are extracted in and so cannot
know if the carrier is beneficial or potentially harmful. Propylene
glycol, for example, is a common carrier. Because the hops follow the
fragrance in the listing, there’s likely not a tangible amount of hop
extract in the product.

Organic Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil

A lovely ingredient, but due to its position on the ingredient list, it’s
unlikely there’s any substantial amount present. This is likely a bit of
“window dressing,” in which an ingredient looks great on a label but
there’s not enough of it to have any real effect.

Ascorbic acid
Ascorbic acid is a vitamin C and a superstar ingredient in many skin
care products. It is generally used in facial care products, as an
antioxidant to prevent and reverse signs of aging.

Organic Cymbopogon flexuosus oil

This is a type of lemongrass essential oil. As the final ingredient, it’s
questionable how much is really in the product. Overall, this is a really
good example of the pitfalls of some “natural” products. Most of the
work done to convince consumers is contained in the phrase
“aluminum-free,” a term most people are familiar with and an
ingredient we’re advised to avoid. After that, most consumers will
assume everything else is safe. When you’re considering what to buy,
try to push past the advertising and get right to the label.

The 13 Unclean
There are 13 ingredients I believe we should avoid entirely—these aren’t the only
ones that should be avoided, but they are the top offenders. Try to avoid a product if
you notice any of these ingredients near the beginning of the ingredients list. For
more information on these, find their definitions in part 3.

1. Parabens
2. Formaldehyde and formaldehyde donors
3. Phthalates
4. Diethanolamine and triethanolamine
5. Diazolidinyl urea and imidazolidinyl urea
6. Sodium lauryl sulfate/laureth sulfate; ammonium laureth sulphate
7. Propylene glycol
8. PVP/VA Copolymer
9. Nanoparticles
 10. Synthetic fragrance (see Fragrance)
11. Triclosan
12. Toluene
13. Sunscreen chemicals

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER
Unless we educate ourselves, we are powerless against a billion-dollar
industry that will do anything to sell us the latest miracle cure. Keep in
mind, everyone has different needs and comfort zones in terms of
what they use on their skin—some are perfectly comfortable using
products that contain a lot of chemicals; others will not be. As long as
you are an informed consumer, there is no right or wrong when it
comes to choosing products. However, I do believe that in a virtually
unregulated industry, consumers should take a “guilty until proven
innocent” approach. I strongly advocate that all questionable
ingredients be left out until ingredient manufacturers produce the
information needed to let the consumer make choices they feel
comfortable with. In order to make choices that fit within your
personal criteria, you need to be educated. Otherwise, you risk
allowing chemicals and toxins into your bloodstream, where they can
affect your health without your consent or knowledge. I suggest you
make your own criteria of what you will or won’t use.
When we consider the impact beauty products can have on our
appearance and health, we might think there would be stringent
guidelines attached to bringing them to market. Unfortunately, there
are not. Basic guidelines exist—such as guarding against outrageous
health claims, a specific order of ingredients, and how the ingredients
are listed—but these are relatively simple procedures to follow,
making it easy for people to make and sell products. This can include
individuals who have no experience with skin, ingredients, formulating,
or sanitary and preservation practices. While it might seem easy to
whip up simple products in the kitchen, there is a great deal involved
in making a quality, truly beneficial product, so while I love supporting
creativity and industriousness, I want everyone to be responsible about
it. People have brought me homemade products for review and often
they can have natural ingredients that can cause skin issues when used
in the intended application. Additionally, not all ingredients work well
together, and certainly not all “natural” ingredients are good for you.
Tempering our enthusiasm with some structure would go a long way—
and it can start with you being an actively informed consumer.
 PART TWO

2 Caring for Your

Skin
Long ago, I realized that caring for skin involved more than
just putting products on it. In 1998, while searching for a
name for my company, I landed on “Sumbody.” This name
encompasses my beliefs about skin—that it’s the sum of
everything we do that keeps us healthy and glowing. From
the food we eat to the thoughts we think, it all shows up on
our skin. In this part, we’ll discuss the full spectrum of caring
for skin and highlight the different aspects.

TAKE CHARGE OF YOUR HEALTH

If any of my clients has been particularly indulgent, they tend to try
and hide their face from me. I tell them everything shows up on the
skin: the emotional residue of the fight with their significant other,
excessive partying, lack of sleep, poor diet, and much more. I can see it
all. They joke and say I’m psychic, but it’s their skin that gives it away.

Eat Well, Look Good

We now know of the strong connection between diet and skin health.
In fact, some of the very same things we use as skin care products are
included in what I call a “beauty diet” composed of “beauty foods.” In
general, this involves eating as close to the earth as possible, or the
way nature provided. This means not eating processed and condensed
foods. For example, eating an apple rather than drinking apple juice.
Apples contain fiber and other important nutrients and have a limited
amount of sugar, whereas apple juice is high in sugar and doesn’t
contain all the other nutrients. Think fruits, vegetables, nuts, seeds,
grains, legumes, etc.

An important aspect to the beauty diet is not only what you eat but
also how you prepare and store your food. Use the right ingredients to
do the right job—oils with high smoke points (such as avocado oil) are
good for stir-fries and sautéing; olive oil is a perfect addition to salad
dressings and cold dishes.

Simple changes you can make that are good for the environment and
your overall health might be: using glass containers for food storage to
reduce the amount of plastic your food is exposed to, drinking water
out of glass or stainless steel, or buying or making produce storage
bags from fabric.

The Probiotic Connection

When functioning properly, your immune system attacks anything in
your body that it recognizes as a foreign contaminant, such as invading
microbes, plant pollen, or chemicals. This process is called
inflammation. Occasional inflammatory episodes targeting truly
threatening invaders help fight off infection, protecting your health,
including your skin. But sometimes inflammation can persist even
when your body isn’t under threat. At this point, inflammation can
become the enemy rather than the protector. Many major diseases,
including cancer, heart disease, diabetes, arthritis, depression,
Alzheimer’s disease, psoriasis, and chronic fatigue syndrome have
been linked to chronic inflammation.

When I began my practice, I quickly noticed the connection between

gut health, diet, and radiant skin. What you eat absolutely shows up on
your skin. More and more doctors recognize this and are shifting their
focus to what we put in our bodies rather than on them. Our most
valuable remedies, it turns out, may come from the farm, not the
pharmacy!

The anti-inflammatory diet is growing in popularity among doctors

and health care specialists for its benefit to your overall health. While
it is more a lifestyle than a diet, these foods and guidelines not only
reduce inflammation but also help maintain youthful, beautiful skin
(see the sidebar). In addition to lowering inflammation, a more natural,
less processed diet can have a positive influence on both your physical
and emotional health. The foods and guidelines can be modified to fit
almost any diet you adhere to. For example, the combination of
growth hormones and inflammatory substances in many dairy
products can, and often do, lead to acne. Other skin ailments, for
example rosacea, are amplified by certain foods such as mint, alcohol,
and spicy foods. It’s all connected, and what you eat is reflected by
your skin.

Vitamin J
I maintain that life is too short to completely abolish what you love. I
live by what I call the 85/15 percent lifestyle. This means 85 percent of
the time I eat a healthy diet, use healthy products, and think positive,
healthy thoughts. The remaining 15 percent of the time, I have my
vitamin J—junk. I indulge in an occasional cocktail, slice of pizza,
scoop of ice cream, or highlight my hair. Having what you love from
time to time increases the success rate of a major lifestyle change.
Whatever your vitamin J is, or if there are deal breakers that you can’t
live without, relax. Indulge every now and then.

Exercise and Sleep

Sleep and exercise are also key factors in maintaining skin health.
While you sleep, your skin cells are not—they are actively
regenerating. Cortisol (the stress hormone) surges during the day, and
lack of good sleep can raise cortisol levels even further. Elevated
cortisol levels cause inflammation, which, as we have learned, harms
your skin. Think of it this way: All day long, your skin is protecting itself
against constant attacks. At night, it finally has time to engage in
intense repair, which is why it’s so important to get good sleep. Human
Growth Hormone (HGH), responsible for cell regeneration, also kicks
in overnight. So does melatonin, which helps mend damage incurred
during the day, increasing skin’s ability to repair itself. Regular exercise
contributes to skin health by improving circulation, enabling essential
nutrients and oxygen to reach and nourish skin cells.

The Good & the Bad

Here are some simple shifts that can yield big results. In general, try to:
• Avoid processed foods; eat whole foods instead
• Drink lots of water
• Eat a variety of foods each meal and day
• Choose organic/fresh food whenever possible
• Eat a variety of whole grains
• Avoid canned foods
• Include a wide variety of beans
• Include winter squash, sweet potatoes, and avocados
• Eat the rainbow every day; plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables, not just the ones
listed here
Inflammation Perpetrators
• Alcohol
• Artificial additives
• Bad fats (saturated, trans)
• Conventional meats and processed meats
• Dairy (unsweetened yogurt/kefir in moderation is fine)
• Excessive omega-6 fatty acids (in oils such as corn, safflower, grapeseed, peanut)
• Fast foods
• Fried foods
• Gluten and casein
• MSG
• Processed foods
• Refined carbohydrates
• Soda
• Sugar substitutes
• White sugar
Inflammation Fighters.
• Alliums: chives, garlic, leeks, onions, scallions, shallots
• Avocado
• Beans and legumes (best if soaked): black, chickpeas, lentils, navy, pinto, split
peas, white
• Bee pollen
• Bone broth (for those who eat meat)
• Burdock root
• Cayenne powder
• Chocolate
• Cinnamon
• Cruciferous vegetables: bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower,
collard greens, kale, radish, rutabaga, turnips, watercress
• Dark leafy greens
• Fruits: apples, blackberries, blueberries, cherries, citrus fruits, pineapple,
raspberries, strawberries
• Ginger
• Green tea
• Oils: avocado, coconut, extra-virgin olive, walnut
• Omega-3s
• Seeds: chia, flax, pumpkin, sesame, sunflower
• Sprouted nuts and seeds: almond, cashew, hazelnut, macadamia, pecan,
pistachio, walnut
• Sweet potatoes
• Turmeric
• Whole grains: amaranth, brown rice, buckwheat, oats
• Wild-caught fish high in omega-3: herring, mackerel, salmon, tuna (note: mercury
and radiation issues are now a factor in how much fish to consume)
• Winter and summer squashes
Perfect Probiotics
Probiotics (good bacteria) are instrumental in maintaining good intestinal health.
Plus, they help your colon get rid of toxic chemicals and pathogens.
• Kefir and coconut kefir
• Kimchi
• Kombucha
• Miso
• Pickles in their own brine
• Sauerkraut
• Tempeh
Prebiotics
Prebiotics nourish and feed the good bacteria in your colon. Both pre- and
probiotics are imperative for a healthy gut.
• Alliums, raw: chives, garlic, leeks, scallions
• Apples
• Apple cider vinegar
• Avocado
• Bananas
 • Chocolate (dark)
• Flaxseed
• Jerusalem artichokes
• Jicama
• Onions, raw and cooked
• Peas
• Wheat berries
• Wheat bran, raw
• Wheat germ
This list is just a starting place. Do what’s healthy for you—omit anything you
already know you are allergic to, and, if you have a medical condition that may
prohibit any of these foods, check with your doctor before altering your diet.

WHY DIY?
Making skin care products for your own use can be both fun and
economical. With proper guidance and understanding, you can make
effective products, know where your ingredients come from, use less
packaging, and go preservative free. If you aren’t convinced, here are
two anecdotes.
A client was being cast on a TV show and had a sudden breakout. Since
this client used my products, I was stumped as to what could be
causing the problem. It turned out she had tried a popular DIY peeling
face mask she found online—it was literally made of charcoal and
white glue.
In another instance, a woman stopped in the shop to share some
makeup she’d made from a recipe she found online. The color was
lovely, and the ingredients were all natural, but overall the product
was not good for skin—the combination of cinnamon, cornstarch, and
cocoa powder may make for a delicious baked good, but cinnamon
increases skin’s photosensitivity. I’m a big advocate for DIY, and there
are 10 recipes for skin care products in part 4, but be aware that
information online is not always the best information. Here are some
wonderful benefits of making products for your personal use.

Mind your budget. It’s no secret that some skin care products come
with big price tags. However, there are some products you can
make that are just as effective as brand-name items, at a fraction of
the cost. This is especially good for products you use frequently,
like toners or masks. To further mitigate costs, consider asking a
friend to co-op with you. You can buy ingredients in bulk to save
money, but they won’t go bad before you can use them. Beauty
parties and DIY parties are fun ideas for making sure all the
ingredients you purchase get used.

Set your own standards. Purchasing your own ingredients gives you
the freedom and flexibility to customize products with exactly the
ingredients you want and the ability to support companies you
choose. You can use your purchasing power to support small, local,
and/or organic farms and companies whose production and
products align with your beliefs.

Keep things fresh. Some of the major offenders in over-the-counter

(OTC) commercial products are the preservatives added to increase
shelf life. By making small-batch products at home, you can use
fresh ingredients and store your product on the shelf or in the
refrigerator, eliminating the need for preservatives. You’ll also be
assured that you’re using ingredients at the height of their potency.

Consider the environment. Use glass mason jars for salt scrubs,
powdered face masks, bath salts, and body creams. Skip the
middleman and eliminate all the cardboard boxes and hard plastic.
Create less trash.

Product Purge & Shopping Tips

 As we discussed briefly in part 1, most of us have too much and use too many
products. If there’s a product you haven’t used in three to four months, chances are
it wasn’t a good purchase. While shopping for products can be an enjoyable hobby,
most skin care junkies have piles of unused or partially used products. Here are a
few tips for using less, getting more out of your products, and giving.
Try what I call the “one-in-one-out” rule. If you want to buy something new, look
through your current stockpile and give something you haven’t been using to a
friend. Just because it doesn’t work for you doesn’t mean they won’t enjoy it.
Familiar with clothing swaps? Try a makeup and skin care swap. This is a great
way to try new products without having to purchase anything. When swapping
products, remember that someone else has used that product, so apply any safety
and sanitary measures you feel necessary.
Take some of your stock and have a beauty day. You can do a mini spa day,
makeovers, pedicures, or manicures. It’s a super fun way to spend time with friends
and use up some products.

A SIMPLE SKIN CARE ROUTINE

A healthy skin care routine includes cleansing, toning, and
moisturizing morning and night, using a serum if indicated/needed,
and regular masks as needed. To establish a healthy routine, follow
the steps below in the order they appear. If you use a mask, apply
toner a second time after removing the mask.

Cleanse
It is imperative to cleanse the dirt, oil, and chemical buildup from your
skin. Doing so allows other products to penetrate as well as waste to
exit. Use your ring and middle finger to apply a small amount of
cleanser, using small upward circular motions. Use light pressure (but
not so light that you cannot feel it). Rinse with warm water (never hot
water) by splashing water on your face until the cleanser is gone or
use a soft clean washcloth.
Skin care products that contain chemicals ending in “-cone” (e.g.,
dimethicone, silicone) can actually form a plug in your pores; it’s like
putting caulk in your pores, which mixes with existing oil and dirt and
makes that plug nearly impossible to pull out. If you use these
products, you may need to cleanse more than once to loosen clogged
and congested pores. Be patient: They are hard to remove. Double
cleansing is recommended if you:
• Are exposed to air pollution daily
• Travel by plane or commute by car
• Smoke
• Horseback ride, garden, bike, or do anything that kicks up a lot
of dirt/small particles
• Have excessively oily skin

Tone
Most people skip this step in their daily routine, but I suggest you don’t.
Toner rids your pores of the last traces of dirt and oil that the cleanser
may have missed and prepares them for your moisturizer, which will
be able to penetrate more deeply. Additionally, if your toner has
effective “actives” (ingredients added for desired results, e.g., anti-acne
or age defying), clean pores will allow these ingredients to penetrate
even deeper. Toner should also balance your pH, which is a very
important part of maintaining healthy skin.
To apply toner, use a cotton ball or soft cotton pad. Start at your
neckline and move upward.
You only need to apply toner once unless you see dirt or cleanser on
your pad or cotton ball. Reapply until the pad comes out clean.

Mask
Masks are another often overlooked step. I cannot stress enough how
important they are; they truly are one of the workhorses of a good skin
care system. Masks do everything from deep pore cleansing to helping
get rid of dead skin cells to supplying vital nutrients and vitamins.
You may have been taught to let masks harden on your face and sit for
a few minutes before removing them. It’s time for a new tactic.
“Hydrolizing” masks with passive steam allow the active ingredients in
the mask to travel through your pores so the ingredients can actually
have an effect. I prefer a powdered mask that is activated with water
because every time you use it, it’s at its peak potency and freshness. To
apply a mask, use your fingers or a fan brush. Ideally, after application,
take a shower as the steam level is perfect. Shower as normal and
rinse off the mask at the end. If you prefer to take a bath, soak a hand
towel in warm (not hot) water, wring it out, and place the towel over
your face. For safety, leave your mouth and nose exposed. After the
allotted time, remove the mask with the same towel, and do a quick
water rinse.

Serum
Serums are problem solvers. If you have a specific skin issue (acne,
excessive dryness, wrinkles, sagging, etc.) that you want to resolve, a
targeted serum is a perfect choice. Not everyone needs serums; skip
this step if it does not apply to you.
Before applying moisturizer, use your ring and middle finger to
massage a small amount of serum onto your skin, making small
upward circular motions.
If you have two separate issues you would like to address (e.g.,
wrinkles and dehydration), I suggest you work first on one and then
focus on the other. Too many combined actives and products at once
are not always beneficial.

Moisturize
All skin needs moisture. If you have oily skin, avoiding moisturizer will
only cause your skin to overproduce oil to compensate. If you have dry
skin, you can surely feel how you need moisturizer. However, not all
moisturizers are meant for all types of skin. It is important to use the
right one for your skin type.
Use your ring and middle finger to massage a small amount of
moisturizer onto your skin, making small upward circular motions.
If your skin still feels dry after applying moisturizer, try doubling up to
what I call “seal the deal.” Use an oil-based face moisturizer and then
layer a face cream on top. This technique also works for dry skin on
your body.

GO FORWARD IN GOOD HEALTH

Caring for your skin, learning about skin care ingredients, making your
own products, and trying to figure out what you want to put on your
skin can be daunting. My best advice is to do what feels right for you. If
you prefer certain brands or certain ingredients, the definitions in part
3 will help you identify exactly what is in those products. If you’re
feeling adventurous and want to try DIY, you’ll find 10 recipes in part 4.
The beauty industry is changing because consumers are demanding it.
Let your dollars send a powerful message—the more demands you
make, the more changes we will see. People tell me they feel
powerless to effect any change, but as an industry insider I can tell you
that you are not powerless. It’s because of you, the consumer, that
there are now cleaner and healthier options available.
My hope is that you will use this guide to broaden your knowledge
about the products you purchase and use on your skin. Knowledge is
power!
 PART THREE

3 Ingredient &
Term Definitions
Having an understanding of the origins, uses, and benefits of
products you use on your skin can help you determine if a
particular ingredient falls in line with your goals and comfort
level. There is a great deal of controversy about many
ingredients; you can find some sources that say they are safe
and others that say they are not. In the following definitions I
try to refrain from giving my opinion. Instead, I simply provide
you with the necessary information to make your own
choices.

Note:
 Terms in bold font within the definitions are cross-references to
main entries.

1,2 hexanediol: Related to propylene glycol, this chemical is used as a

preservative, thickening agent, filler, humectant, and conditioner. It
carries the ingredients in a product through the skin barrier into the
bloodstream. While there is no skin benefit, its low toxic rating means
natural skin care companies use it as a preservative.

Acacia catechu gum: Also called cutch tree, this has historically been
used in Ayurvedic medicine for skin ailments. It is also used as an
astringent and for its consistency, viscosity, and texture.
Acacia concinna bark extract: Saponins in the bark of this Asian tree,
also known as shikakai, make a very light lather when agitated or
shaken with water. Rich in antioxidants and vitamins A, D, C, and E,
the extract is used in skin cleansers and antiaging face creams.
Acacia concinna fruit extract: The dried acacia leaves and fruit are
used in conditioners, facial cleansers, and shampoos.
Acacia decurrens bark extract: The rich tannin content in the bark of
this Australian shrub, also known as green wattle, is added to
cleansers, toners, and facial moisturizers. Gum is also made from
the bark and used for viscosity and thickening.
Acacia decurrens flower extract: The extract from the acacia flowers,
which contain a nutrient-dense pollen, is used in face creams
targeting the effects of aging. The flowers are also made into a
beautiful yellow dye that is useful as a natural colorant.
Acacia essential oil (Acacia dealbata): Also known as cassia, this oil has
 a mildly sweet, warm, calming scent and is widely used in body
products and perfume. The essential oil comes from the extract of
both the flowers and the leaves. It is suitable for all skin types and
said to brighten dull skin.
Acacia farnesiana flower extract (Vachellia farnesiana): This extract is
widely used in cosmetics to impart scent, but little research has
been conducted about it.
Acacia farnesiana gum (Vachellia farnesiana): Also known as sweet
acacia, this gum is used in cosmetics to control viscosity, for
thickness, and as a binder.
Acacia farnesiana root extract (Vachellia farnesiana): The antioxidants
in this root make the extract useful for the treatment of acne and
aging skin.
Acacia flower extract (Acacia dealbata): This extract is used for skin
conditioning and to calm and soothe sensitive, red, irritated skin.
Acacia flower wax (Acacia dealbata): Made from the flower solvent
extraction, this wax is used as an emollient, thickening agent, and
emulsifier.
Acacia leaf extract (Acacia dealbata): This extract is used for its
restorative and protective properties, generally in antiaging
products to soften and soothe skin and protect collagen.
Acacia seed extract (Acacia dealbata): Research has shown positive
effects of this seed extract on the signs of aging. It helps repair and
mend collagen, visibly reduce wrinkles, generate new skin cells,
and protect skin from environmental damage. Effective when used
alone, it is even more effective when used in conjunction with other
active ingredients like antioxidants and essential fatty acids.
Acacia senegal gum extract (Senegalia senegal): Also known as gum
arabic, this fiber-rich gum made from the sap is used to create
viscosity and as a thickening agent in creams, lotions, and serums.
Acai berries (Euterpe oleracea): Grown by a tropical palm tree native
to South and Central America, acai berries are very high in
antioxidants and amino acids. Acai is frequently used in face
creams, serums, and masks to combat a variety of skin concerns
ranging from acne to aging. The berries can be used fresh; as an
extract in either alcohol, glycerin, or solvent; or powdered.
Acai berry oil (Euterpe oleracea): Made from whole berries through a
cold process, this very pure oil retains all the nutrients and vitamins
of the whole berry. It has anti-inflammatory and anti bacterial
qualities and is rich in essential fatty acids. Light, nongreasy, and
easily absorbed, it is used in face oils, creams, and serums targeting
aging, acne, and dehydration.
Acai seed oil (Euterpe oleracea): The seeds of the acai fruit contain a
rich and diverse selection of essential fatty acids and antioxidants.
Oil from the seeds is powerfully anti-inflammatory and helps
protect skin against environmental damage.
Activated coconut hull charcoal: This is one of the cleanest charcoals
available. Millions of tiny pores help it adhere to and draw out
toxins, oils, and buildup from skin pores. Its extraordinary cleaning
ability enables proper skin functioning and leaves skin smooth and
supple.
Agar agar: Derived from seaweed, agar agar takes on a gelatinous
consistency when combined with water. It is a popular ingredient in
DIY peeling masks and is used as a thickening agent in facial
moisturizers, liquid soaps, and powders.
Agave (Agave americana): When used as a moisturizer, agave can
protect skin from environmental damage, alleviate sunburn pain,
and stimulate collagen production.
Agave leaf stem cell extract (Agave americana): Stem cell use is
becoming very popular in skin care products. This extract can
protect skin against environmental stress and sun damage. It is also
a powerful ingredient in antiaging products.
Ajowan essential oil (Trachyspermum ammi): Also known as bishop’s
weed, this oil is extracted from the seeds of the ajwain plant, native
to India. It has antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, and antiseptic
properties and is often used to treat skin infections and acne.
Alaea Hawaiian sea salt: This clean, pure sea salt is enriched with
purified red volcanic alaea clay. The salt enhances the clay’s
mineral profile and its ability to clear clogged pores. It is used in
detoxifying baths, foot soaks, exfoliating scrubs, and purifying
products.
Alfalfa (Medicago sativa): Considered an herb but actually in the
legume family, alfalfa is rich in vitamins (especially K), saponins,
flavonoids, and amino acids. It is used in skin care to help retain
moisture, give a nutrient boost, and treat acne and excessively
dehydrated skin.
Allantoin: Found naturally in plants such as chamomile, comfrey, and
sugar beet, allantoin is generally used in a synthetic form for
cosmetic use. It is regarded as nonirritating and a highly effective
moisturizing agent. It is often added to antiaging creams and used
to treat dehydrated skin, psoriasis, and eczema.
Almond meal (Oleum amygdalae): Almond meal provides the same
benefits as almond oil but in a less concentrated form. It is a gentle
exfoliator often used in powdered masks, exfoliating powders, and
body soap.
Almond oil (Oleum amygdalae): This common and cost-effective oil
has high levels of essential fatty acids and vitamin E. It is often
included in body lotions and face creams to help skin retain
moisture and prevent fine lines and other signs of aging.
Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis): This tropical evergreen, perennial
succulent plant is a traditional remedy for many ailments and
issues including sunburn, dry skin, and inflammation. Aloe contains
enzymes that help exfoliate skin by encouraging cell renewal to
combat aging. It is added to many products such as face creams,
 body lotions, toners, and after-sun gels.
Aloe vera butter (Aloe barbadensis): This butter is the extraction of
aloe vera into fractionated coconut. It retains all the attributes of
aloe vera but in a less concentrated form and is commonly used to
form a creamy, smooth texture in body creams and lotions.
Aloe vera oil (Aloe barbadensis): This oil is similar to aloe vera butter
but is extracted into a carrier oil that is liquid at room temperature,
making it accessible for face care formulations.
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs): A group of synthetic and naturally derived
active ingredients, AHAs include glycolic, lactic, mandelic, tartaric,
citric, and malic acids. AHAs are popular for their ability to
exfoliate dead skin cells; smooth wrinkles and fine lines; improve
elasticity, texture, and tone; clean pores; and resurface skin. They
are also said to be effective at acne scar removal and skin
lightening. The level of exfoliation depends on the type and
amount of AHAs used. In some professional applications where an
alpha hydroxy peel is used, some people report redness, sensitivity,
and irritation. Natural AHA products and chemical peels differ in
intensity and efficacy. AHAs cause photosensitivity.
Alpha-lipoic acid: This effective antioxidant enzyme is often mixed
with other antioxidants in products targeting aging and congested
pores. Most forms are a 50:50 mix of synthetic and natural
components. Often used in serums, it efficiently penetrates skin and
effectively reduces wrinkles and fine lines, restores glow, and
prevents signs of aging.
Aluminum chlorohydrate/chloride: Created by reacting aluminum with
hydrochloric acid, this inorganic salt can alter skin pH balance and
reduce sweat production, making it an effective ingredient in
antiperspirants and deodorants. Many believe that topical
application of aluminum salts can lead to breast cancer and
Alzheimer’s disease, though there is no conclusive scientific
evidence for either claim.
Aluminum oxide/alumina: Primarily used as a thickening agent that
also aids in anticaking and absorption, this compound is frequently
mixed into mineral powder makeup. It doesn’t penetrate skin and
the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) considers it safe for
cosmetic use.
Amaranth flour (Amarantus): This is used in face care products as a
gentle exfoliant that also offers antioxidants and collagen-boosting
ingredients.
Amaranth oil (Amarantus): One of the best natural sources of squalene
(a hydrator found naturally in skin), amaranth oil mimics sebum to
help skin retain moisture and is a highly effective emollient and
antioxidant. Increasingly popular for use in antiaging face creams,
it is also said to be anti-inflammatory and antibacterial.
Amargo wood extract (Quassia amara): Derived from a small South
American evergreen tree, this extract contains antiviral, anti-
inflammatory, antifungal, insecticidal, and antioxidant properties. It
is used to treat acne, as a conditioning agent in cosmetics, and
traditionally to eradicate lice.
Amazonian lily extract (Victoria amazonica): Derived from an
Amazonian water lily, this extract’s high tannin content makes it an
excellent astringent, working to minimize pores. Its rich
composition of starch, glucose, and oils moisturizes, detoxifies, and
nourishes skin for a smooth and supple appearance.
Amber extract: Amber is a naturally found resin, and the extract is
lauded for its youth-preserving and cell-rejuvenating properties.
The antiaging benefits are attributed to the high concentration of a
powerful antioxidant. The ingredient is relatively new in high-end
face care products, although amber has long been used as a scent.
American ginseng (Panax quinquefolius): Commonly used in Chinese
medicine, ginseng’s phytonutrient-rich roots and leaves are
increasingly used in products for their antiaging properties. It is
also used for skin brightening.
Ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS): Derived from coconut or synthesized
in a lab, this substance is a foaming agent popular for shampoos,
body washes, and facial cleansers. ALS doesn’t penetrate skin and
hair as easily as smaller-molecule surfactants such as sodium
laureth sulfate. Some believe this makes it a safer alternative.
Considered an irritant at concentrations of 2% and above, it’s
regarded as safe for use in cosmetics but only in products designed
for brief use followed by thorough rinsing.
Amyris essential oil (Amyris balsamifera): All parts of this bushy tree
native to Haiti are used medicinally, topically, and
aromatherapeutically. The oil, extracted from the wood, has
antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and sedative properties, and
promotes skin regeneration while calming and reducing redness.
Amyris hydrosol (Amyris balsamifera): This hydrosol has all the
benefits of the essential oil but in a less concentrated form so it can
be used undiluted. It is added to cleansers and toners to keep pores
clean, remove dead skin cells, and reduce inflammation.
Andiroba extract (Carapa guianensis): This extract can be powder or
liquid. The liquid is generally extracted into an alcohol solvent. It
has antiviral, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties and is
generally used in salves for muscle and joint aches and pains, and
for treating wounds. It is also added to soap, face masks, and face
and body scrubs as an exfoliant.
Andiroba oil (Carapa guianensis): Derived from the seeds of an
Amazonian rain-forest tree, this oil contains essential fatty acids,
vitamins, and minerals. It is used in products targeting acne as well
as in soap and natural insect repellents.
Anise essential oil (Pimpinella anisum): Anise essential oil is generally
added to lotions, creams, bath salts, and soaps for its aroma, but its
antiseptic property makes it useful in deodorants and hand
sanitizers.
Anise seed extract (Pimpinella anisum): Native to the Mediterranean
 and Asia, anise is a flowering plant in the carrot family. Apart from
its culinary uses, it is antimicrobial and an antioxidant. It is used
topically to treat acne and to slow signs of aging.
Angelica essential oil (Angelica archangelica): Extracted from the
angelica root, the oil is used in massage oils and bath salts to
promote detoxification, treat psoriasis, and reduce inflammation. It
can cause photosensitivity, so it should not be used in a strong
concentration in skin care products.
Angelica hydrosol (Angelica archangelica): This hydrosol has all the
benefits of the essential oil but in a less powerful form so it will not
cause photosensitivity. It is used in baths to alleviate psoriasis,
inflammation, and menstrual cramps.
Angelica leaf extract (Angelica archangelica): This extract is rich in
tannins and is often used in combination with the root extract in
cleansers and toners targeting the effects of aging.
Angelica root extract (Angelica archangelica): Traditionally used for
treating ailments such as colds and the flu, and to boost the
immune system and promote digestion, angelica is used topically
to protect skin against pathogens and to help keep pores clean and
clear.
Angelica seed (Angelica archangelica): Filled with essential fatty acids
and antiseptic properties, these powdered seeds are used in face
masks and exfoliants, or as an oil in face creams and face oils
targeting dehydration.
Anthocyanins: Anthocyanins are natural plant pigments that produce
red, blue, and purple colors. Their anti-inflammatory and
antioxidant properties make them effective at wound healing,
healthy cell regeneration, and increased production of collagen.
They also protect skin against environmental damage and aging
and are used in products targeting aging and acne.
Antioxidants: These substances are some of the mainstay ingredients
 in skin care products. Extensive studies have proven their ability to
protect skin cells from sun damage, pollutants, and other factors
that damage and kill cells. Antioxidants are not limited to but
include vitamins E and C, green tea, resveratrol, and coenzyme
Q10. They are effective for skin when used both topically and
internally.
Apple (Malus pumila): This fruit is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and
the exfoliant malic acid. Apples are a prebiotic that feeds
probiotics. Maintaining a flourishing population of beneficial flora
on the skin surface is important for healthy skin.
Apple cider vinegar (ACV): The main ingredient of apple cider vinegar
is acetic acid, although it also contains other acids (lactic, citric,
and malic), vitamins, mineral salts, and amino acids. The acids
“digest” dead skin cells, causing a mild cell turnover to reveal more
vibrant, youthful, and healthy skin. With a pH similar to skin, ACV
helps restore and balance the natural pH and acid of the skin’s
surface. It should always be diluted in purified water before
applying.
Apple stem cell extract (Malus pumila): This extract contains powerful
antioxidants that protect against signs of aging. While more
research is being done on stem cells and skin care, apple stem cell
extract is already being used more widely.
Apricot oil (Prunus armeniaca): Pressed from apricot seed, this oil is
light and easily absorbed with no greasy residue. Rich in
antioxidants and vitamins A and E, and containing gamma linoleic
acid, it firms, moisturizes, hydrates, tones, soothes, and slows signs
of aging. It is suitable for sensitive skin. It is used in products that
treat acne as it has an anti-inflammatory effect, and it can reduce
and clear breakouts. It is commonly found in body scrubs, lotions,
oils, face creams, and face oils.
Apricot seed/kernel (Prunus armeniaca): This hard seed is finely milled
into powder and added to facial scrubs as a facial exfoliant.
 Although the powder feels very fine, the kernel does not dissolve in
water and retains jagged edges that can cause
microdermabrasions.
Argan oil (Argania spinosa L.): Produced by cold-pressing the seeds of
the argan tree native to Morocco, this oil is full of vitamin E and
other antioxidants. Rich in essential fatty acids, it softens skin,
increases elasticity, and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. It
helps balance skin’s natural oil production, is noncomedogenic,
and is used to prevent breakouts. Argan oil has become a highly
popular ingredient in skin and hair care products.
Arnica flower (Arnica montana): This perennial plant has long been
used in homeopathic preparations and topically in ointments for
bruises, sprains, arthritis, pain, and inflammation. It works gently to
reduce redness and calm irritated skin, properties that make it
effective for both antiaging and acne skin care. It is also used in
bath salts and soaks.
Arrowroot: Derived from the rhizomes of different tropical plants, this
very fine, soft, and silky powder can effectively replace cornstarch
and is found in many products such as body powders, makeup, face
masks, and creams for its ability to draw, absorb, and thicken.
Asafoetida essential oil (Ferula foetida): Made from both the root and
stem of perennial herbs, this essential oil has antifungal, antiviral,
and antibacterial properties effective for treating acne.
Asafoetida powder (Ferula foetida): Made from the rhizome of several
species of perennial herbs, asafoetida has anti-inflammatory,
antiviral, antibacterial, antioxidant, and sedative properties and is
used in face masks and exfoliants that are used for acne
prevention, skin lightening, and treating the effects of aging. The
powder is increasingly popular in natural skin care, as being able to
make products without water eliminates the need for preservatives.
Ascorbyl palmitate: This synthetic, nonacidic form of vitamin C is often
found in facial serums. Sometimes marketed as “vitamin C ester,”
 it’s formed from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid (a fatty acid from
plants or animals). Because it is fat-soluble, it penetrates skin more
easily than other forms of vitamin C. It’s particularly effective at
reducing environmental skin damage when applied topically. It
can, however, increase photosensitivity.
Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera): The powdered root of this
perennial shrub is commonly used in Ayurvedic medicine. There is
little research on ashwagandha’s topical benefits. Full of flavonoids
that may rejuvenate skin cells, ashwagandha can be found in skin
care products such as toners, serums, moisturizers, and eye creams.
Astragalus leaves (Astragalus membranaceus): Astragalus leaves are
less commonly used internally than the root, although topically the
leaves are used to increase the levels of hyaluronic acid, protect
skin from cellular damage, maintain healthy collagen, and prevent
aging.
Astragalus root (Astragalus membranaceus): This has been used for
centuries in Chinese medicine to maintain a healthy immune
system. Topically, its antioxidant benefits help strengthen skin cells,
protect against damage, and ward off bacteria and viruses.
Astringent: An astringent is something that causes the contraction of
body tissue, typically the skin. Astringents are generally found in
toners marketed to reduce pore size and to cleanse and refresh
skin. Pores, however, are not muscles and cannot expand and
contract. Once they have been overstretched, they do not shrink
back.
Avocado (Persea americana): High in essential fatty acids, vitamins,
and minerals, avocados are gentle enough for all skin types. They
protect, mend, and repair skin as well as moisturize and hydrate.
Fresh avocados are used as face masks, and powdered avocado is
added to increasing numbers of skin care products. Since there is
no water in powdered avocado, it can be mixed with other
ingredients such as clays and milks to make a powdered face mask
 without the need for preservatives.
Avocado butter (Persea americana): This is not a true plant butter but a
combination of avocado oil and a hydrogenated vegetable oil. It
has a rich, creamy texture and offers a different profile than the oil
for products such as body creams, body lotions, bar lotions, soaps,
and hand and foot balms.
Avocado oil (Persea americana): Much more concentrated than the
fruit, avocado oil is extracted from the pulp and is rich in essential
fatty acids, vitamins, antioxidants, and nutrients, making it
beneficial for extremely dry and aging skin. It is noncomedogenic
and leaves no greasy residue. Beneficial for irritated or sensitive
skin, it soothes symptoms of psoriasis and eczema. The oil also
increases collagen production and decreases inflammation.

Babassu seed oil (Orbignya oleifera): The edible oil is derived from the
fatty seeds of the Amazonian babassu palm. Rich in antioxidants
and essential fatty acids, it also has antifungal, antiviral, and anti-
inflammatory properties. Although fairly rich and viscous, it quickly
absorbs into skin. It is often used in products that target acne,
severe dehydration, and premature aging, as well as in cuticle
conditioners, bath oils, soaps, and massage oils.
Babchi leaf extract (Psoralea corylifolia): The extract of the Babchi leaf
is rich in antioxidants, is an anti-inflammatory, and helps relieve
stress. It is used in products such as face creams, bath soaks, and
salves to promote relaxation, ease pain, treat psoriasis, and slow
signs of aging.
Babchi seed oil (Psoralea corylifolia): These seeds come from an
annual plant that grows in India, Africa, and China. Research has
 indicated efficacy in treating psoriasis, environmental damage, and
signs of aging. It is used in face creams to reduce the effects of
aging, in bath soaks and creams for psoriasis, and in massage oils
and body lotions.
Bacillus coagulans: Part of the probiotic family, this bacteria is
currently a hot ingredient in skin care products for acne, rosacea,
eczema, and premature aging.
Bakuchiol: An extract derived from the seeds and leaves of babchi,
bakuchiol is the new must-have ingredient in products for
antiaging. Considered the new retinol, it is used for its ability to
provide all the attributes of retinol but in a gentler formulation.
Balsam fir essential oil (Abies balsamea): This astringent has
antibacterial properties, so it is often used in rubs for congestion
and steams for the relief of cold and flu symptoms. It is also used in
hand sanitizers, soaps, hair care, and toners and for its aroma in
scent blends.
Balsam of Peru essential oil (Myroxylon balsamum): Derived from a
tree native to tropical South and North America forests, the
antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antiseptic
properties in this essential oil make it useful in deodorants and
antiperspirants. It is an extremely concentrated essential oil used in
very small amounts in massage oils for damaged and severely dry
skin.
Bamboo charcoal (Bambuseae): The high surface-to-weight ratio of
this charcoal makes it an excellent purifier that penetrates deeply
into pores and draws out rancid oils, dirt, and impurities,
detoxifying and allowing skin to breathe and function properly.
Bamboo leaf extract (Bambuseae): Bamboo leaf extract has
antioxidant compounds that strengthen collagen structure,
regenerate cells, visibly reduce wrinkles, and tone skin, making it
beneficial in skin care products targeting mature skin.
Bamboo powder (Bambuseae): Very fine and rich in minerals and silica,
bamboo powder is used in facial exfoliants, body powders, and
makeup.
Bamboo vinegar (Bambuseae): Relatively new in skin care, this vinegar
has antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal properties that reduce
redness, irritation, and itching, and eliminate dead skin cells and
foot odor. It is used in facial toners and cleansers targeting acne,
and also in foot soaks.
Banana (Musa sapientum, Musa nana): Originally found in Malaysia,
bananas are high in vitamins B6 and C, manganese, potassium, and
natural sugars that gently exfoliate and moisturize. They are
effective at treating psoriasis and are most commonly used in
powdered or extract form in skin care products, bath soaks, and
face creams targeting dehydrated, irritated, aging, and psoriasis-
prone skin.
Banana peel extract (Musa sapientum, Musa nana): The cosmetic
industry started using banana peel extract for its amino acid,
antioxidant, and sugar content. The extract is used in facial
cleansers, exfoliants, and face creams. While rich in nutrients, it is
gentle on skin and calms rashes, insect bites, and psoriasis.
Baobab (Adansonia): This tree grows in Australia, the Middle East, and
parts of Africa. The fruit and seeds are used fresh or dried, or made
into extract. It is said to have anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and
antimicrobial properties as well as a high vitamin C content. When
used topically, it visibly improves skin elasticity, helps prevent signs
of aging, and acts as a natural moisture barrier.
Barberry (Berberis vulgaris): Traditionally, the fruit, bark, and berries of
this European shrub have been used topically for their anti-
inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal properties.
Barberry contains berberine, which not only kills bacteria and is
anti-inflammatory but also is a mild sedative and immune-system
booster. Barberry is used in skin care products to treat acne as well
 as in creams and salves for pain and fungal infections.
Bay essential oil (Laurus nobilis): This oil is antiseptic, antifungal, and
anti-inflammatory and is used to treat acne and oily skin
conditions. It is also added to perfumes and essential oil blends for
scenting bath and body care products and soaps.
Bay hydrosol (Laurus nobilis): Bay hydrosol has all the properties of the
essential oil but is less caustic. It is used in acne toners, acne
cleansers, foot soaks, deodorants, and muscle sprays.
Bee pollen: Honeybees form tiny pellets of pollen held together by
plant nectar and bee enzymes. The pollen is a power-packed
nutrient-dense ingredient that aids in collagen production, visibly
accelerates cell turnover, combats acne, and restores vibrancy to
skin.
Beefsteak plant leaf extract (Perilla ocymoides): Extracted in various
solvents, which make its purity range from below average to good,
this leaf extract is filled with antioxidants and anti-inflammatories.
Beefsteak plant oil (Perilla ocymoides): The oil extracted from the
beefsteak plant seed has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory
properties as well as essential fatty acids. It helps gently remove
dirt and oils from skin and is used in many products, from cleansers
to face moisturizers. It can cause some sensitivity.
Beefsteak plant seed extract (Perilla ocymoides): Extracted in various
solvents or powdered, the seeds from this plant native to Asia have
antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal properties.
Beet sugar: White table sugar comes from sugarcane or beets, the
difference being how it is processed and refined. White sugar is
processed with bone char to whiten the crystals, while beet sugar is
not. Both are a natural form of glycolic acid, which gently
exfoliates. Beet sugar also is a moisturizer that maintains
intracellular hydration and helps prevent the damage and
dehydration responsible for parched, sallow, and discolored skin.
Behenic acid: A fatty acid derived from plant oil extracts such as
moringa oil and pracaxi oil. As a conditioning agent, it works to
smooth hair follicles. It’s also used as a thickening agent,
surfactant, and opacifier. It’s found in a wide range of products
including hair care, deodorants, eyeliners, moisturizers, cleansers,
and styling gels.
Behentrimonium chloride: Derived from canola oil, this substance has
powerful conditioning properties, and its waxy texture makes it a
popular ingredient in defrizzing hair products. It can also act as a
preservative. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) rates it as
3/10, and it is Whole Foods Premium Body Care approved, but it is
considered toxic in concentrations of 0.1% and higher. Conditioning
agents are often highly toxic, and behentrimonium chloride is
generally regarded as a safer option.
Bentonite clay: This highly absorbent clay is great for oily skin due to
its ability to easily adhere to and draw out excess oil and toxins
when mixed with water. Known for its toning, tightening, blemish-
banishing, and pore-purging abilities, it is one of the most common
and easily accessible clays.
Benzoin: A balsamic resin derived from a solvent extraction of the bark
of several species of trees in the Styrax genus, benzoin is used in
perfumes, incense, and essential oil blends. It is also used for
wound healing, canker sores, and pain.
Benzoyl peroxide: This medicine kills the bacteria that cause acne. It
also helps keep pores clear.
Berberine: An alkaloid found in plants and used internally in
traditional Chinese medicine, berberine is an anti-inflammatory
used in antiaging skin care products and in products targeting joint
and muscle pain and inflammation.
Bergamot essential oil (Citrus bergamia): Bergamot is possibly a hybrid
of lemon and bitter orange. The essential oil is antiseptic and
bacterial and is added to deodorants and used to treat acne,
 athlete’s foot, eczema, infections, fungal infections, inflammation,
and psoriasis.
Bergamot hydrosol (Citrus bergamia): Bergamot hydrosol contains all
the attributes of the essential oil in a less expensive form, which
can be used undiluted or to replace water in products targeting
acne, psoriasis, and eczema, and in facial toners, foot soaks, body
sprays, and natural deodorants.
Bergamot juice (Citrus bergamia): Bergamot juice is rich in
antioxidants and natural fruit sugars. It is used in facial cleansers to
gently exfoliate and protect skin against environmental damage.
Bergamot leaf extract (Citrus bergamia): Bergamot leaves were
traditionally applied directly to pimples to relieve breakouts. The
leaf extract is now used in cleansers, toners, face creams, and
serums to treat acne.
Beta hydroxy acid: Also known as salicylic acid, this comes from the
bark of the white willow tree. Beta hydroxy acid is oil soluble,
allowing it to deeply penetrate pores and rid them of congestion
and buildup, unlike alpha hydroxy acids, which cannot penetrate
the sebum (skin’s natural oil) in pores. It also has anti-inflammatory
and antibacterial properties and is therefore generally used in
products designed to treat acne.
Beta-carotene: This yellowish-orange pigment is found in colorful
fruits and vegetables, especially carrots. It is a provitamin that can
be converted into active vitamin A and is a carotenoid and
antioxidant. It can be used to fight free radical damage, increase
collagen production, repair skin, and protect it from premature
aging.
Betel leaf (Piper betle): These leaves come from a tropical evergreen
vine and contain beta-carotene, antioxidants, tannins, and anti-
inflammatory properties. Betel leaf helps protect skin against UV
damage and maintains healthy collagen and skin structure.
Bilberry extract (Vaccinium myrtillus L.): Native to North America,
Western Asia, and some parts of Europe, bilberry is filled with
anthocyanins and bioflavonoids that protect against and reverse
skin damage caused by free radicals and environmental toxins. It
helps deliver oxygen-rich blood to the skin, which helps maintain
elasticity and suppleness and aids in balancing the skin’s natural oil
production. It is often used in face creams, lotions, and makeup.
Bioflavonoid: Bioflavonoids are plant-derived compounds with
powerful antioxidant properties.
Birch bark extract (Betula alba): Detoxifying, purifying, calming,
healing, and mildly astringent, birch bark extract enables
congestion in pores to be loosened and removed. Its anti-
inflammatory properties soothe irritated skin and combat eczema
and psoriasis.
Birch essential oil (Betula alba): Extracted from leaves and buds, birch
essential oil is used to treat joint and muscle pain, as a mild
astringent in skin care, and to treat psoriasis and eczema.
Birch hydrosol (Betula alba): Birch hydrosol has the same benefits as
the essential oil but in a less caustic form, so it can be used
undiluted. It is used in acne toners, in body creams to ease joint
pain, compresses for sore muscles and pain, and in the bath to
reduce joint and muscle pain.
Birch leaf extract (Betula alba): Birch buds and leaves are used for the
extract, which is rich in flavonoids, saponins, and tannins. It is
antifungal, antibacterial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, and mildly
astringent. It is used in products aimed at antiaging, brightening,
and purifying.
Black cumin oil (Nigella sativa): Also known as black seed oil, black
onion seed oil, or black caraway oil. The seeds are rich in
antioxidants, minerals, and vitamins and are believed to have
antibacterial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, and antiseptic
properties. In skin care the oil is most commonly used for acne,
 psoriasis, and dehydrated and aging skin. The National Psoriasis
Foundation recommends using the oil both topically and orally to
treat psoriasis.
Black currant bud floral wax (Ribes nigrum): This wax is used as an
emulsifier, thickening agent, and emollient and to provide a
smooth texture. It has astringent properties.
Black currant leaf extract (Ribes nigrum): Black currant leaves contain
antibacterial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, and antifungal
properties. The extract is used to treat wounds, cuts, scrapes, insect
bites, and joint pain. It is added to products such as salves and bath
soaks for pain relief and wound healing.
Black currant seed oil (Ribes nigrum): Native to Europe and Asia, black
currants contain a high concentration of antioxidants, gamma-
linolenic acid, essential fatty acids, vitamins A, B, and E, and are a
superstar source of vitamin C. The National Psoriasis Foundation
recommends using the oil both orally and topically for psoriasis. It
is beneficial for dry, itchy, and painful skin.
Black Hawaiian salt: This is not a true black salt but sea salt combined
with activated charcoal made from the hulls of Hawaiian coconuts,
which provide its color. With the addition of coconut charcoal, this
salt is widely used for detoxifying baths, foot soaks, exfoliating
scrubs, and purifying products.
Black musli (see Curculigo orchioides)
Black pepper essential oil (Piper nigrum): Black pepper comes from a
vine native to India. The essential oil is rich in phytochemicals and
has antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory
properties that are used in essential oil blends and perfumes. It
protects against damage from UV rays and is a prebiotic, helping
maintain a healthy microbiome.
Black pepper, ground (Piper nigrum): Ground black pepper has all the
attributes of the essential oil but in a less caustic form. It is used as
 an exfoliant in facial scrubs, body scrubs, and bar soap.
Black raspberry seed oil (Rubus occidentalis): Extracted from black
raspberry seeds in a cold-process method, this extremely pure oil
contains high levels of antioxidants and essential fatty acids, has
anti-inflammatory properties, and is used to protect skin against
sun and environmental damage. It is a light, easily absorbed,
nongreasy, noncomedogenic oil used in sunscreens and for dry,
damaged, prematurely aging skin.
Black tea (Camellia sinensis): Brewed black tea can replace water in
formulations to increase efficacy. Replacing water with other fluids
such as hydrosols and teas is an effective way to impart active
ingredients. Black tea is also used in soapmaking.
Black tea extract (Camellia sinensis): Filled with antioxidants, this
extract is a staple in skin care formulations that target the
prevention and reversal of aging.
Black or chebulic myrobalan (Terminalia chebula Retz): This whole
plant is used to treat many ailments in Ayurvedic medicine. It has
antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antiviral
properties. Applied topically, it protects the skin’s natural barrier,
warding off toxins and germs. It is used to treat acne and dandruff,
and added to salves and creams for foot care.
Black willow bark (Salix nigra): Black and white willow bark contain
salicin and anti-inflammatory flavonoids beneficial for many skin
ailments. The bark is a powerful ally against the appearance of
aging skin. It is also used to decongest pores, smooth texture,
prevent blemishes, and relieve pain; in acne products and antiaging
products; and in muscle balms and pain-relieving bath soaks.
Blackberry (Rubus allegheniensis): Blackberries are filled with
minerals and vitamins and are a particularly high source of vitamin
C. When used in skin care they are concentrated, making the
vitamin C levels profound. Blackberry regenerates skin cells and
protects against environmental damage. It can be used either fresh
 or powdered and is becoming increasingly popular in skin care
products.
Blackberry seed oil: This oil has all the benefits of the fruit with the
addition of essential fatty acids. It is a noncomedogenic, easily
absorbed, versatile oil that can be used in products ranging from
face creams and oils to body lotions and serums.
Blue Cambrian montmorillonite: Rich in trace minerals, this highly
absorbent clay is used for drawing out congestion in pores, to
detoxify, and to combat acne and oily skin.
Blue lotus floral extract (Nymphaea caerulea): This extract is used for
its ability to moisturize. It also helps balance the skin’s natural oil
production, so it is used to reduce and prevent acne breakouts, in
antiaging skin products, and also as a calming, relaxing agent.
Blue lotus floral wax (Nymphaea caerulea): This floral wax has anti-
inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It is an emulsifier, imparts
viscosity, and creates an even, creamy texture. Its hydrating and oil-
balancing benefits make it widely used in products targeting aging
and acne.
Blue-green algae (Cyanobacteria): This microscopic organism lives in
lakes, ponds, and streams. Packed with amino and fatty acids, the
building blocks of healthy collagen and skin, it helps retard signs of
aging and visibly lifts and tones skin, making it look rejuvenated.
Blueberry seed oil (Vaccinium ssp): Blueberries are considered a
superfood, but their seed oil is also a powerhouse for skin. Rich in
antioxidants, essential fatty acids, vitamins, and phytonutrients, this
easily absorbed, nongreasy, and noncomedogenic oil is suitable for
all skin types. It rejuvenates skin, restoring luster.
Bog bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L.): This member of the bilberry
family contains one of the richest sources of anthocyanins, giving it
its color and a significant antioxidant content. It is also anti-
inflammatory. It protects collagen, promotes new cell growth,
 prevents the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and helps
improve hydration levels.
Bolivian rose salt: This rare salt is hand-mined from ancient deposits in
the Bolivian Andes Mountains. The mountains protected the salt
from contaminants, conserving the abundant trace minerals that
give it its unique color and ingredient profile. It nourishes,
detoxifies, smoothes, remineralizes, and tones skin.
Borage oil (Borago officinalis): This oil is pressed from the seeds of the
borage plant, which contain essential fatty acids that play a key
role in healthy skin structure and function. It is noncomedogenic
and creates a gentle skin barrier that conditions excessively dry
skin. It is a delicate oil with a shelf life of about six months.
Boron nitride: A naturally occurring mineral powder that can also be
synthesized, boron nitride is added to makeup and sunscreens to
help other ingredients spread over skin. It also promotes adhesion
and absorbs oil. Its crystalline structure refracts light from skin,
giving a smooth, even-toned appearance. It’s widely regarded as
nontoxic and safe for cosmetic use.
Boysenberries (Rubus ursinus x Rubus idaeus): Rich in antioxidants,
especially vitamin C and natural fruit sugars, boysenberries can be
used fresh or powdered and are used in face masks, cleansers, and
face creams that target the effects of aging before wrinkles appear.
They also gently remove dead skin cells and help eliminate pore
congestion.
Boysenberry seed oil: The cold-pressed oil from boysenberry seeds are
high in antioxidants and vitamins A, C, and E. It protects skin from
environmental damage and rejuvenates skin cells and collagen.
The cold-pressed oil is not to be confused with the fragrance oil,
which should be listed differently on the label as it is not derived
from the berry.
Brazil nut oil (Bertholletia excelsa): This oil from the nuts of a tree
native to South America is rich in selenium, vitamin E, essential
 fatty acids, and has anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties. It is
used in hair care products, massage oils, and skin care products
aimed at combating excessive dryness, preventing signs of aging,
and reducing fine lines and wrinkles.
Broccoli seed oil (Brassica oleracea italica): This oil contains
antioxidants and essential fatty acids that protect skin against
environmental stressors and is intensely hydrating. It is light,
nongreasy, noncomedogenic, and easily absorbed. As well as
vitamin C, it contains vitamin A, which helps remove dead skin
cells. It’s beneficial for all skin types, including sensitive skin. It is
used in face creams, face oils, and face serums that target
dehydration and the effects of aging.
Bromelain (Ananas comosus): Bromelain is an enzyme with anti-
inflammatory and antibacterial properties found in the stem or
fruit of the pineapple plant. Applied topically, it accelerates the
healing of wounds and burns. It also helps remove dead skin cells,
restoring health and luster.
Brown sugar: With its natural minerals left intact, brown sugar has all
the properties of white sugar with an extra mineral boost that
nurtures skin. It is a natural humectant and also a natural source of
glycolic acid. Brown sugar is used in facial and body scrubs, and in
bath sugars for soaking as opposed to traditional bath salts. Sugar
feeds yeast, however, and can exaggerate breakouts and rashes in
some people.
Buriti fruit oil (Mauritia flexuosa Arecaceae): Also called aguaje oil,
buriti oil is cold-pressed from the wild-harvested fruit of a palm
tree native to Brazil. It has one of the highest percentages of beta-
carotene of any oil and is rich in essential fatty acids. It is used in
skin care products for its ability to renew cells; protect and repair
collagen; increase skin’s elasticity, tone, and texture; and reduce
and retard signs of aging.
Buttermilk: The lactic acid in buttermilk removes dead skin cells,
 softens, brightens, lightens, moisturizes, and visibly evens skin tone.
It contains probiotics that balance skin pH and help maintain
healthy skin. Milks are often used in products such as lotions, face
creams, bath soaks, and hair care.
Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT): This synthetic chemical is used in
cosmetics as a preservative and antioxidant. Studies show it to be
both tumor-promoting and anticarcinogenic, depending on the
concentration. When applied topically, it affects the liver and
kidneys and is associated with toxic effects in lung tissue. The
limited studies on its effects on skin show no significant irritation,
sensitization, or photosensitization. Some studies claim it is safe for
cosmetic use in low concentrations.
Butylparaben: This preservative is used to limit bacterial growth and
extend the shelf life of products. Studies suggest that parabens
mimic estrogen and can disrupt both male and female reproductive
health. The EWG rates it 7/10 on its hazard scale. The FDA has no
specific laws for the use of preservatives in cosmetics and claims
the lack of reliable evidence/data regarding any harmful effects of
parabens on human health suggests no reason to advise against or
limit use.

C12-18 acid triglyceride: This synthesized ester of glycerin is used as

an emollient and to enhance the texture and thicken the
consistency of lotions and conditioners. The EWG gives it a 1/10
hazard rating, and it’s generally regarded as safe for cosmetic use.
Cabbage leaf extract (Brassica oleracea): Both the juice and the
extract from cabbage leaves are used in skin care for their
abundance of minerals and antioxidants such as vitamins C and E.
The extract protects against damage, maintains healthy skin cells,
 and reduces inflammation. Generally used in face creams for acne
and wrinkles, its efficacy at reducing inflammation in lactating
breasts is being studied.
Cabbage seed oil (Brassica oleracea): Cold-pressed from the seeds,
cabbage seed oil is high in vitamins C, A, D, and K and contains
essential fatty acids. This rare and expensive oil is nongreasy and
easily absorbed and is used in small quantities in face care
products rather than body lotions. It is used to prevent and reverse
signs of aging, and to treat acne.
Caffeine: Caffeine is used topically to protect skin against UV damage.
It has antioxidant properties and prevents premature aging. A
vasoconstrictor, it is also used topically to prevent undereye
puffiness and dark circles. The caffeic acid in caffeine helps skin
appear smoother and is often used in products targeting cellulite.
Cajeput essential oil (Melaleuca cajuputi): This oil is distilled from the
leaves of a tree related to the tea tree. It has a strong odor and is
generally used in small amounts in balms and salves for its
antibacterial, antifungal, analgesic, antiviral, anti-inflammatory,
antioxidant, and astringent properties. It is added to cleansers,
massage oils, bath bombs, and to creams for pain relief and to heal
athlete’s foot.
Calcium bentonite clay: This highly absorbent clay generally forms
after volcanic ash ages. It is used for detoxifying and clearing
congested pores and in cosmetics to help them adhere and add
natural water resistance.
Calendula flowers (Calendula officinalis): These vibrant flowers are
used in bath salts, soap, body scrubs, face scrubs, face masks, and
facial steams. They have the same benefits as calendula oil but in a
less concentrated form. The flowers are dried and either used in
powdered form in face masks and face scrubs, or the petals are
used whole in products such as body scrubs and facial steams.
Calendula oil (Calendula officinalis): Extracted from calendula flowers
 into a carrier oil, this oil is widely used for its antifungal,
antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps heal
wounds, protects and moisturizes skin, and reduces redness,
making it a good addition to sunscreens, acne products, salves, face
creams, face oils, face serums, body lotion, and bath soaks. The
soothing oil is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive and dry
skin, and can be used to treat diaper rash, eczema, and psoriasis.
California poppy (Eschscholzia californica): Native to California, this
species of poppy contains alkaloids, which are used to fight
wrinkles. There is also an indication that it helps reduce symptoms
of rosacea. Often used as a calming mild sedative, it can be added
to bath salts.
Camellia oil: Derived from the seeds of Camellia sinensis, Camellia
oleifera, or Camellia japonica by cold-pressing or solvent
extraction, this oil provides twice as much antioxidant protection as
grape-seed oil, rose hip oil, or vitamin E. Packed with high levels of
fatty acids, plus squalene, it increases collagen production, reduces
wrinkles, and is anti-inflammatory. Additionally, it is lightweight,
quickly absorbed, noncomedogenic, and it soothes sensitive and
irritated skin while increasing skin hydration. Used for dehydrated,
mature skin, it is extremely beneficial in preventing signs of aging.
Camphor essential oil (Cinnamomum camphora): Extracted from an
evergreen tree native to Asia, camphor essential oil is effective in
the treatment of acne, inflammation, oily skin, and wound healing.
It is concentrated and powerfully scented and is normally used in
small amounts for spot treatment.
Camphor hydrosol (Cinnamomum camphora): Camphor hydrosol has
all the benefits and attributes of the essential oil but in a less
caustic form, making it a more versatile way to impart the benefits
to skin care products. It is used in acne toners, shampoos and
conditioners, and face and body creams. It is also used in eczema
and psoriasis sprays and bath products.
Canola oil: Also known as rapeseed oil, canola oil is subject to
controversy about its effect on health when taken internally. While
there is disagreement among experts on its culinary use, it is
showing up more and more in face creams targeting dehydration
and aging. It is also used in soapmaking.
Caprylyl caprylate/caprate: This emollient and humectant is derived
from coconut or palm kernel oil. It is mild and generally regarded
as safe and suitable for sensitive skin and is often used in body,
skin, and baby care products. It leaves skin feeling smooth and dry,
and it biodegrades easily.
Capsaicin: Capsaicin is what gives hot peppers their heat. The extract
from the pepper is an extremely concentrated analgesic and is
used in balms, salves, and creams targeting joint and muscle pain
and inflammation. It produces a hot, burning sensation when
applied topically.
Caraway essential oil (Carum carvi): Produced from caraway seeds, this
essential oil has proved effective at treating acne, combating oily
skin, healing wounds, and treating infections. It is used in skin care
products targeting acne and in salves for wound healing.
Caraway extract (Carum carvi): Caraway extract has the same
attributes as the ground seeds but is more potent and can be used
in a greater variety of products. It can be extracted in water,
glycerin, or alcohol and is added to face care products to prevent
signs of aging, maintain healthy collagen, eliminate dead skin cells,
cleanse, and protect against environmental damage.
Caraway seeds (Carum carvi): Caraway seeds are ground to a fine
powder and used in facial masks and exfoliants. They contain
flavonoids, fatty acids, amino acids, tannins, sugars, and vitamins.
Carotenoid: There are over 600 carotenoids, mainly found in
vegetables with yellow, orange, or red flesh. Carotenoids are
powerful antioxidants often used in skin care products either
isolated and synthetic or naturally derived from fruits and
 vegetables or by using the vegetable itself.
Carrageenan: Derived from red seaweed (Irish moss), carrageenan is
used as a conditioning, thickening, and emulsifying agent in
products such as moisturizers, shampoos, and conditioners.
Carrageenan increases hydration by holding water onto hair and
skin. There are some health concerns about downgraded
carrageenan. Only food-grade carrageenan is allowed in cosmetic
formulations. In any case, carrageenan molecules are too large for
skin to absorb.
Carrot (Daucus carota): Carrots are rich in vitamins and nutrients such
as vitamins A, B6, and K, plus beta-carotene and potassium. They
protect skin from free radical damage and the deterioration of
collagen and leave skin clear, resurfaced, and smooth. Carrots can
be used fresh or in a highly concentrated powdered form. The
powder is used in face masks and exfoliants to treat premature
aging, wrinkles, fine lines, and stretch marks. The juice can be used
in everything from cleansers to face creams to body lotions.
Carrot root extract (Daucus carota sativa): Generally extracted in
glycerin, this extract is high in vitamins A and E and beta-carotene
and is used in face creams, serums, body creams, bar lotions, and
lip balms to soothe and soften dehydrated, chapped, flaky, itchy,
and uncomfortable skin.
Carrot seed essential oil (Daucus carota sativa): This essential oil is
antifungal, antibacterial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, and filled
with antioxidants. It is used for mature skin, oily skin, eczema, acne,
psoriasis, rashes, scars, wrinkles, and wound healing.
Carrot seed oil (Daucus carota sativa): Extracted from carrot seed
through a cold process, this oil contains a concentrated profile of
carotenes and antioxidants. It stimulates new cells and tissues, and
nourishes, firms, tones, moisturizes, protects, and rejuvenates skin
while supplying vital nutrients and essential fatty acids. It is
noncomedogenic and beneficial for both dry and oily skin,
 quenching deeply parched skin and helping regulate and balance
oil production. Primarily used in antiaging skin care products.
Castor oil (Ricinus communis): Often used in soap to increase lather,
castor oil is in such demand that many crops are genetically
modified to increase yield. The plant itself contains very unhealthy
compounds, so careful harvesting and complex processing is
necessary. The finished product, however, has no negative side
effects. Certified organic castor oil is available. The oil is used for
moisturizing, conditioning, and wound healing as it stimulates
tissue growth and forms a protective barrier that helps ward off
infection.
Catnip (Nepeta cataria Linn.): Catnip is a perennial native to Europe,
Asia, and Africa. It is most commonly known for its ability to calm,
relax, balance, and center. It is a natural astringent and is used to
help control dandruff. In skin care it is primarily added to toners
and shampoos but is also found in relaxing bath soaks and calming
mists.
Cayenne (Capsicum annuum): Cayenne is primarily used for muscle
pain relief, although it is increasingly used in salves, balms, and
lotions for psoriasis and antiaging.
CBD: Cannabinoids (CBD) are one of many compounds in the cannabis
plant. CBD has been getting a lot of press about its benefits when
taken internally or applied topically. Skin care companies are
touting its use for everything from acne to antiaging, but so far
there is little research and documentation to substantiate the
claims.
Cedar red clay: This powerful detoxifying clay is rich in many natural
minerals that help oxygenate skin. Its high absorbency capability
and iron content make it extremely beneficial for intense deep
pore cleaning and oily skin. Clays work more efficiently when
combined with other clays.
Cedarwood essential oil (Cedrus atlantica): Also known as Atlas cedar
 essential oil, this oil is commonly used for its woody scent.
Topically, its antiseptic and antifungal properties help treat acne,
cellulite, cracked skin, eczema, oily skin, inflammation, and
psoriasis.
Cedarwood hydrosol (Cedrus atlantica): Cedarwood hydrosol has the
benefits of the essential oil but in a less caustic form and can be
used undiluted or to replace water in formulations to increase
efficacy. It is used in conditioners to control dandruff and in face
cleansers, face toners, and face and body creams.
Celery hydrosol (Apium graveolens): Celery hydrosol has all the
benefits of the extract and essential oil in a less caustic form and
can be used undiluted. It is used in facial cleansers and toners
targeting aging and acne as well as in pain-relieving sprays.
Celery seed essential oil (Apium graveolens): This essential oil is used
to balance hormones, invigorate and stimulate cognitive function,
ease pain and discomfort, and maintain healthy skin. It is filled with
antioxidants, essential fatty acids, and anti-inflammatories. It is also
used to scent products.
Celery seed extract (Apium graveolens): This extract is filled with
antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, and minerals. Primarily used in
skin care creams and lotions, it is now appearing in products
targeting muscle aches and pains.
Cellulose acetate: A synthetic compound that comes from cellulose,
cellulose acetate can be made into plastics or fabrics. Cellulose is a
naturally occurring polymer derived from wood and processed to
make cellulose acetate. There are a multitude of modified
cellulose polymers used in skin care products for everything from
thickening agents and binders to absorbents.
Cellulose acetate microbeads: A bill was passed banning the
manufacture and distribution of plastic microbeads due to their
detrimental effect on the environment. By July 1, 2018 all products
containing plastic microbeads were supposed to be off the market.
 To replace them as an exfoliant that would not cause
microdermabrasions, these are one of the newer biodegradable
products, which are made from wood pulp from sustainable forests.
Ceteareth-20: This is a blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, which are
the natural fatty acids in coconut or vegetable oil. It is one of the
most common emollients used in cosmetic products and also works
as an emulsifier. It’s found in everything from hair dye to
sunscreens, cleansers to conditioners. However, the EWG warns of
possible contamination with carcinogens such as 1,4-dioxane. This
is especially dangerous since ceteareth-20 is a penetration
enhancer.
Ceteareth-25: This cleansing and solubilizing agent keeps ingredients
evenly dispersed throughout product mixtures. It has more gel-
forming and thickening properties than ceteareth-20 and is used to
enhance the texture of products such as lotions, creams, and
conditioners. It can be derived from plants, animals, or synthesized
in a lab. There is no EWG warning of potential contamination.
Cetearyl alcohol: A viscosity booster and consistency enhancer used to
thicken liquid products and increase their foaming capacity,
cetearyl alcohol can come from vegetable or coconut oil or be
synthesized. It is found in many lotions and creams. Because it’s a
fatty alcohol, it doesn’t have the same skin-irritating properties as
alcohol, so products labeled “alcohol-free” may still contain
cetearyl alcohol. EWG rates it 1/10 on its hazard scale, and it’s
considered safe for cosmetic use.
Cetyl dimethicone: A synthetic, silicone-based emulsifier that is used
as a conditioning agent in many skin and hair care products as well
as makeup, particularly primers and liquid foundations. It gives
products a creamy, consistent texture, so they go on smoothly
while filling fine lines and evening tone. Rated 1/10 on EWG’s
hazard scale, cetyl dimethicone is considered generally safe for
cosmetic use, although there are concerns that because products
containing it generally cover the whole face and seal pores, this
 ingredient disrupts the natural hydration process and possibly
creates a dependency on the product, much like petroleum jelly.
Because pores are blocked, they’re unable to get rid of waste and
buildup, which can increase the occurrence of blackheads and
breakouts.
Cetyl esters/cetyl palmitate: This is a synthetic wax derived from
vegetable or coconut oil. It naturally occurs in the head cavities of
sperm whales but is now synthesized for cosmetic use. Used in
moisturizers and hair care products as an emollient and
conditioning agent, it gives a smooth, consistent texture and
creamy feel. When applied, cetyl esters have no systemic toxicity,
sensitization, or photosensitization, and cause little irritation.
Cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose: Classified as a gum, this compound is
used to thicken products and acts as an emulsion stabilizer. It helps
skin and hair retain moisture while also reducing stickiness. It’s
often found in moisturizers and conditioners and is generally
considered safe for cosmetic use.
Chamomile, German (Matricaria recutita): Topically, chamomile calms,
soothes, and visibly reduces redness, itching, irritation, and
inflammation while keeping skin youthful and glowing. It is also a
powerful antioxidant used in antiaging products. It is very gentle
and suitable for all skin types, even extremely sensitive. Chamomile
can be found in many products from soaps to shampoos, face
creams to body lotions.
Chamomile, German essential oil (Matricaria recutita): This is one of
the most widely used essential oils and is found in skin care
products for sensitive, dry, aging, and irritated skin. It is often used
in spas for relaxation and in bath salts.
Chamomile, German hydrosol (Matricaria recutita): Derived through
steam distillation of the essential oil, this hydrosol has all the
attributes of the flower and essential oil but in a less caustic form
that can be used undiluted. It can be used alone as a facial mist or
 toner or can replace water in any formulation to increase efficacy.
It is extremely soothing and calming for both mood and irritated
and sensitive skin. It is used in facial toners for sensitive skin and
natural baby wipes.
Chardonnay grape seed oil: Grape-seed oil can be made from a variety
of grapes, but Chardonnay grape seed oil is limited to the
Chardonnay grape. Studies have shown the composition of
different grape seeds produce different profiles of the oil.
Chardonnay grapes contain essential fatty acids, vitamin E, and
antioxidants in amounts significant enough for use in skin care and
can be found in face care products, body creams, and body oils
targeting the effects of aging.
Chaulmoogra oil (Hydnocarpus wightianus): Sometimes called butter,
this oil is derived from the seeds of a tropical Indian tree. The oil is
extracted by steam distillation, which makes it very pure. It has
antiviral and antibacterial properties and is generally used in bars,
lotions, salves, or creams targeting psoriasis and eczema, although
it can also be found in deodorants and hand sanitizers. It should be
used only in small amounts as it is extremely potent and can cause
sensitivity.
Cherry blossom extract (Prunus serrulata): Cherry blossoms are in the
rose family, and both the leaves and petals are edible. The extract,
which is made from both, is known for its high levels of antioxidant,
anti-inflammatory, and skin-lightening properties and essential
fatty acids. It is very soothing and beneficial for all skin types,
helping decongest pores, visibly reduce signs of aging, increase
collagen production, and even out skin tone.
Chia seed (Salvia hispanica): Edible, nutrient-dense chia seeds come
from a flowering plant native to Central America. They contain
protein, anti-inflammatories, antioxidants, and minerals. The tiny
seeds are used whole or ground into powder and added to face
masks, facial exfoliants, and exfoliating soaps. When water is added
to them, they secrete a gelatinous fluid that is soothing, softening,
 and calming for irritated and sensitive skin.
Chia seed oil (Salvia hispanica): Made by pressing and extracting chia
seeds, the oil is an intense concentration of the nutrients and
benefits of the seeds. It helps prevent free radical damage and
rehydrates skin. It also evens out skin tone and texture and reduces
redness, scaling, and wrinkles. It is relatively new in the cosmetic
world but gaining in popularity.
Chinese ash (Fraxinus chinensis Roxb.): This species of flowering tree
has been used historically in traditional Chinese medicine and is
now appearing in face care products because of its ability to
prevent signs of aging and inhibit environmental stress.
Chinese licorice root extract (Glycyrrhiza uralensis): This flowering
plant native to Asia is a fundamental herb in traditional Chinese
medicine. The roots are packed with flavonoids, making it an
ingredient protective against UV radiation damage. Supremely
soothing and moisturizing, with skin tone–evening properties,
Chinese licorice is often found in cleansers, toners, moisturizers,
and eye creams for sensitive, reddened skin.
Chironji oil (Buchanania latifolia): Almond-flavored chironji seeds
come from an evergreen tree native to Malaysia, Nepal, and Burma.
The seeds are cold-pressed, and the resulting oil is added to
antiaging skin care products. The oil is rich in amino acids,
antioxidants, vitamins, and nutrients that prevent signs of aging,
increase cell turnover, and maintain healthy collagen.
Chlorella extract (Chlorella vulgaris): Also called dermochlorella, this
extract is sourced from green microalgae that typically grow in the
waters of Japan and Taiwan. An antioxidant, and loaded with
amino acids, it protects skin from signs of environmental damage
such as pigmentation and sunburn. Some studies show that it
promotes collagen production, increases skin firmness, and
diminishes the appearance of scars and fine lines. For these
reasons, it’s found in face masks and antiaging products.
Chloroxylenol: This synthetic liquid antiseptic and disinfectant is
primarily found in wound cleaners and antibacterial soaps. It’s also
used as a preservative and deodorant agent in cosmetic products.
At high concentrations, it can cause skin and eye irritation and
corrosion and is harmful if swallowed. Currently, studies show no
evidence of systemic toxicity in humans and conclude that it’s a
safe cosmetic ingredient. The EWG, however, rates it 3/10 on its
hazard scale.
Chromium hydroxide green: Synthesized from the mineral chromium,
this colorant is classified as a “straight color,” meaning it isn’t
mixed or chemically reacted with other substances to create it.
Permanently listed by the FDA for cosmetic use, it can be found in
makeup, hair dye, nail polish, and bath and skin care products.
While allowed in formulations for use around the eyes, it may not
be used in products intended for lips. The EWG gives it a hazard
rating of 2–4/10.
Chromium oxide greens/chromium(III) oxide: Derived from the mineral
chromium, this pigment powder is more stable and permanent than
chromium hydroxide green. It’s classified as a “straight color,”
meaning it isn’t mixed or chemically reacted with any other
substances to create it. Permanently listed by the FDA for cosmetic
use, it can be found in makeup, hair dye, nail polish, and bath and
skin care products. While allowed in formulations for use around
the eyes, it may not be used in products intended for lips. The EWG
gives it a hazard rating of 2–5/10.
Chrysanthemum: Edible “mums” are cultivated in a variety of colors.
Most commonly, people drink tea from white or pale yellow
chrysanthemums. Drinking the tea and using the extract helps
maintain beautiful skin. Used in creams, it’s an anti-inflammatory
and helps reduce puffiness.
Cinnamon bark essential oil (Cinnamomum zeylanicum): Antiseptic,
antibacterial, and antiviral, this oil is used in perfumes and
essential oil blends for scenting body products. Some people have
 a sensitivity to the oil, and it can cause photosensitivity.
Cinnamon bark extract (Cinnamomum zeylanicum): This extract has all
the attributes of cinnamon powder but can be used in a greater
variety of products, as it is in either glycerin or alcohol. It is often
used in products targeting acne but can cause some sensitivity and
should be used in very small quantities.
Cinnamon hydrosol (Cinnamomum zeylanicum): Cinnamon hydrosol is
a beneficial way to get all the attributes of cinnamon bark without
photosensitivity or skin sensitivity and is used in both antiaging and
acne skin care products.
Cinnamon leaf extract (Cinnamomum zeylanicum): Cinnamon leaf
extract can either be in alcohol or glycerin. It is less caustic than
the oils and often causes less skin sensitivity. It is used for foot
soaks and acne care.
Cinnamon powder (Cinnamomum zeylanicum): Made from the inner
bark of the tree, cinnamon powder has been used traditionally as a
culinary spice and for medicinal purposes. It contains a potent
compound, cinnamaldehyde, which is considered responsible for
many of its attributes. Cinnamon has antioxidant, anti-
inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal properties
and helps increase cognitive function. The powder is used in face
masks and facial exfoliants as well as body and foot scrubs to treat
acne and fungus. Caution should be taken when using cinnamon
topically as it can cause sensitivity and photosensitivity. It should
not be used in bath products.
Citric acid: This is an alpha hydroxy acid extracted from citrus fruits.
Used for its antioxidant and exfoliation properties, citric acid is
found in antiaging peels and masks to promote cell renewal and
protect against free radical damage. However, lactic and glycolic
acids are believed to be more effective with less likelihood of
causing a stinging sensation on skin. Due to its natural acidity, citric
acid is also used to adjust the pH of products, preventing them
 from being too alkaline.
Citronella essential oil (Cymbopogon nardus): Extracted from a
perennial plant native to tropical parts of Asia, the essential oil has
antibacterial, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and antifungal
properties. It is used as an antidepressant, natural deodorant, and
insect repellent. It’s a strong essential oil used in very small
amounts for oily skin conditions.
Citronella hydrosol (Cymbopogon nardus): Citronella hydrosol can be
used in more applications than the essential oil and is noncaustic
with a milder scent. It is used in acne care, hair care, and in natural
insect repellents.
Clary sage (Salvia sclarea Linn.): This is a flowering herb native to the
northern Mediterranean basin. In skin care, it helps balance sebum
production, making it beneficial for both oily and dry complexions.
It has powerful antimicrobial properties and contains linalyl
acetate, a chemical that works to decrease inflammation and
soften scarring.
Clary sage essential oil (Salvia sclarea Linn.): This concentrated form of
clary sage is used for its aromatherapeutic properties and topically
for skin. Added to deodorants, hand sanitizers, acne products,
wrinkle treatments, and cellulite products, it is also used in bath
soaks. It has a very strong scent that balances and clears the mind.
It is generally used in small amounts and should not be used
undiluted.
Clary sage extract (Salvia sclarea Linn.): This extract is used for
alleviating menstrual cramps; controlling oil; treating acne,
wrinkles, cellulite, muscle tension, and stress; and for its
antimicrobial properties.
Clary sage floral wax (Salvia sclarea Linn.): Made from the flower,
stem, and leaf, this floral wax is used as a thickening agent and
emulsifier to add rich, creamy texture and smoothness. It has
gentle stimulating properties and is an effective ingredient in
 detoxifying products.
Clove essential oil (Syzygium aromaticum): Clove essential oil contains
eugenol, a chemical that may help reduce pain as well as fight
infections. It is often used for toothaches as well as in food and
beverages. Topically, it is used for its antifungal, antiviral, and
antibacterial properties and in the treatment of acne, athlete’s foot,
cold sores, and wound healing. Its warming, calming scent is added
to perfumes and essential oil blends in bath and body care
products.
Clove hydrosol (Syzygium aromaticum): Clove hydrosol has all the
benefits of the essential oil in a noncaustic form and can be used
undiluted or to replace water in formulations to increase efficacy
and impart aroma. It is used as a mouthwash, for acne skin care,
and lotions for athlete’s foot and wound healing.
Cocamide DEA (diethanolamine) and MEA (monoethanolamine): These
substances are mixtures of fatty acids derived from coconut oil or
synthesized. Used primarily as thickening, foaming, and emulsifying
agents in body washes, shampoos, and conditioners, they are
deemed safe for cosmetic use in rinse-off products and in
concentrations up to 10% for leave-in products. However, the EWG
gives cocamide MEA a 1–4/10 hazard rating and cocamide DEA a
7/10 as a possible human carcinogen. Research shows that when
applied topically, there is little toxicity. The vapors, however, are
highly toxic, so these ingredients should not be used in aerosol
products.
Cocamidopropyl betaine: This synthetic detergent originally derived
from coconut oil is commonly found in shampoos, makeup
removers, body washes, and skin care products. It’s believed to
cause irritation and/or allergic contact dermatitis and was named
Allergen of the Year in 2004. Such reactions could be caused by the
ingredient itself or impurities.
Cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao): A plant-based fat derived from
 roasted cocoa beans, cocoa butter is high in essential fatty acids
and antioxidants. Used in lotions and body scrubs, it leaves a
nongreasy layer on skin that protects against the elements and
locks in moisture. It is readily absorbed and increases skin elasticity
and tone as well as prevents stretch marks. While fantastic for skin
from the neck down, it should be avoided on the face as it is
comedogenic. Most cocoa butter used in cosmetics is decolorized
and deodorized to prevent the color and smell in the finished
product.
Cocoa leaf extract (Theobroma cacao): While cocoa leaves are least
known and used, they contain a different profile of antioxidants
than the seed extract, making them the perfect complement to the
extract to get all the benefits of the cocoa plant in one product.
They’re used to protect skin against environmental damage and
aging, visibly reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and enhance cellular
turnover.
Cocoa powder (Theobroma cacao): Cocoa powder has all the benefits
of the extract in a less concentrated form. It is used for face masks,
face exfoliants, bath salts and bombs, and in soapmaking and spa
treatments.
Cocoa seed extract (Theobroma cacao): This extremely concentrated
and anti-inflammatory extract is derived from the cocoa bean and
is rich in flavonoids and antioxidants. Topically, it is added to
antiaging products to protect skin against environmental damage,
reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and increase production of new skin
cells and collagen.
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein: This is derived
by enzyme, acid, or other means of hydrolysis (the term used when
a compound is broken down chemically with the reaction of water).
This substance is used in body washes, face cleansers, hair
conditioners, and shampoos. While little is known about the long-
term effects of this ingredient, it is generally considered safe,
although currently the EWG rates it 10/10 for possibly being
 contaminated with pesticides.
Coconut butter (Cocos nucifera): Often confused with coconut oil but
very different, coconut butter is made by puréeing the coconut
meat, including the oil. The resulting butter is solid at temperatures
below 76°F and melts at temperatures above. It is high in essential
fatty acids and vitamins. It also has some antifungal and
antibacterial properties, making it a great moisturizer for feet,
hands, hair, cuticles, and lips. It can be used alone or in products
such as face creams and hand and foot lotions. While many people
use it on their face, it can clog pores and is best at under 5% of a
cream or 25% of an eye product.
Coconut milk (Cocos nucifera): A combination of coconut meat mixed
with about 50% water, coconut milk is a natural emollient that
gently cleans skin without stripping natural oils and provides
vitamins E, K, B complex, and C, amino acids, minerals, and
essential fatty acids vital for skin health but not naturally produced
by the body. It combats bacteria and provides intense hydration,
and it can visibly reduce the appearance of wrinkles, sagging, and
age spots. Very popular, it is used in many products from soap and
hair care to face creams and body lotions.
Coconut oil (Cocos nucifera): Cold-pressed or expeller-pressed
(sometimes called virgin) coconut oil is purer than refined coconut
oil. Both are made from the coconut meat, but refined is made from
dried meat under high heat that is then bleached, treated with
caustic soda, steamed, and filtered. Cold-pressed coconut oil has a
strong aroma, so some skin care companies use refined oil to avoid
a coconut scent in the finished product. Cold-pressed is generally
preferred in skin care products due to the higher level of
antioxidants and antibacterial properties. Coconut oil increases
elasticity, prevents breakouts, and is concentrated with essential
fatty acids, vitamins, and nutrients vital for skin health.
Coconut water (Cocos nucifera): Coconut water is naturally found in
young green coconuts. It has less fat and fewer nutrients than
 coconut milk. It contains lauric acid, an antimicrobial. Coconut
water is used to impart healthy fluids to keep skin hydrated. It is
also used to combat acne, frizzy hair, and athlete’s foot.
Coenzyme Q10/Ubiquinone: Also called CoQ10, this is a potent
antioxidant naturally produced by the body that’s vital to proper
cell function but decreases with age. The supplement is made in a
lab through a yeast fermentation method. When applied topically,
the small molecules easily penetrate skin and work by neutralizing
harmful free radicals to prevent and repair signs of aging. Because
of its skin-rejuvenating properties, it’s often used in serums,
moisturizers, and other antiaging skin care treatments.
Coffee (coffea): Coffee grounds are used in body scrubs for their
anticellulite properties, and the caffeine is added to many
antiaging and depuffing face care products. Coffee is rich in
powerful antioxidants; it also aids circulation, is a diuretic, calms
irritated and red skin, helps sun-damaged skin and rosacea, and
reduces swelling and puffiness around the eyes. It is gentle enough
for all skin types, even sensitive.
Coffee butter: This is not a true butter but coffee oil mixed with stearic
acid (a naturally occurring fatty acid in plants and animals) to
create a viscous buttery texture. Coffee butter has a coffee aroma
and is used in cellulite creams, body lotions, body butters, bar
lotions, lip balms, and face creams.
Coffee oil: Made by a cold process, coffee oil is a very pure and fairly
expensive oil with a coffee aroma. It has the same pH as skin,
making it suitable for use on all types of skin. It helps maintain
moisture levels and balances oil production, visibly reduces fine
lines and wrinkles, and helps in the treatment of acne, cellulite,
inflammation, and congested pores.
Collagen protein, hydrolyzed: Collagen proteins are increasingly used
in face care products as well as promoted for internal consumption.
Bone broth is rich in collagen, and there are many bovine collagen
 supplements. However, much cosmetic collagen protein comes
from other sources such as pigskin, made by an enzymatic
hydrolysis process. Topically, collagen is used to increase elasticity
and reduce fine lines, sagging, and wrinkles.
Colloidal oats (Avena sativa L.): These are made from dehulled oat
kernels. They are rich in polysaccharides, proteins, lipids, enzymes,
saponins, flavonoids, and vitamins. It is possible to make them at
home, but without an industrial machine it isn’t possible to grind
them as finely as commercial colloidal oats, and they will not be
quite as effective. This versatile ingredient can be used to soften
and soothe sensitive, itchy, dry skin, rashes, psoriasis, eczema, and
acne, and it cleans, exfoliates, and hydrates while also protecting
against UV radiation. Most commonly used in bath products, it can
also be found in lotions, face masks, and skin care products.
Colloidal silver: Highly popular in skin care as an antibacterial,
antifungal, and antiviral for the treatment of acne and as part of a
preservation system, the tiny particulates of silver suspended in
water are often touted as a skin wonder. However, there is little
scientific evidence to support the claims, and the Mayo Clinic
considers it unsafe to take internally.
Comfrey root (Symphytum officinalis): A perennial herb, comfrey root
contains allantoin (gentle moisturizer); rosmarinic (antioxidant),
salicylic (helps prevent blemishes), and caffeic (antiaging) acids;
mucilage (hydrates and reduces fine lines); polysaccharides; and
glycopeptides (antiaging). It is a powerful anti-inflammatory and is
used in eye and face creams as well as pain-relieving muscle
salves.
Copal essential oil (Bursera glabrifolia): This oil, from a tree native to
Mexico, is anti-inflammatory and generally used in products for
treating acne, although it is also used to heal wounds, treat
dermatitis, and condition skin.
Copal extract (Bursera glabrifolia): This extract is antibacterial, anti-
 inflammatory, antiviral, and contains antioxidants. It can be used in
a wide array of products, mainly face creams and serums, to target
acne and aging. It can be used in a higher concentration than the
essential oil.
Copal hydrosol (Bursera glabrifolia): Copal hydrosol has all the
benefits of the essential oil in a less caustic form and can be used
undiluted or to replace water in formulations to increase efficacy. It
is used in wound-healing sprays and sprays to treat acne,
dermatitis, and inflammation.
Copal resin (Bursera glabrifolia): This hard, gum-like substance is used
to create viscosity and texture in creams and lotions while
imparting all the benefits of the oil at less expense. It can also be
used in hard bars, lotions, and salves.
Copper peptide: Studies have shown that copper peptide, often
considered one of the most powerful skin regeneration ingredients,
promotes collagen production, increases skin elasticity, smoothes,
tones, tightens, softens, and reduces bumps. It is an antioxidant that
helps maintain skin’s fluid levels and build tissue.
Coriander essential oil (Coriandrum sativum): Essential oil made from
coriander seeds is used as a blending element in perfumes and
essential oil blends for skin and body care. It is also used in natural
deodorants, hand sanitizers, and acne products.
Coriander hydrosol (Coriandrum sativum): Coriander hydrosol has all
the benefits of the essential oil but in a less caustic form, so it can
be used undiluted. It is used as a base for natural deodorants, hand
sanitizers, and acne toners and cleansers.
Coriander leaf extract (Coriandrum sativum): The antioxidants in
coriander leaf protect against damage and premature aging
caused by UV rays. The extract is used in products targeting
premature signs of aging and dehydration.
Coriander powder (Coriandrum sativum): Coriander powder is made
 from the seeds. Its antioxidant and antibacterial profile makes it
suitable for face masks and exfoliants for acne. It is becoming
extremely popular in natural skin care products as it eliminates the
need for preservation systems.
Coriander seed extract (Coriandrum sativum): Coriander seeds have a
potent antioxidant profile and prevent bacteria buildup and the
odor caused by it. The extract is often used in acne products and
natural deodorants.
Corn silk (maize): Corn silk is the thread-like flexible fibers that grow
inside the corn husk. Generally considered a by-product and
discarded, it is used in skin care to reduce hyperpigmentation.
Studies have shown it to be effective at reducing pigment even on
sensitive skin. It is packed with potassium and other vital nutrients,
and is anti-inflammatory and an antioxidant.
Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus): Native to Europe, the blue-purple
cornflower petals are often added to products for color. The
extract contains anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties and
is added to eye care products, foundations, and makeup as well as
skin care products for antiaging.
Cornstarch: Cornstarch is made from the corn grain. It is used in
cosmetics, baby powder, foundations, makeup, face masks, and
deodorant. However, its high percentage of natural sugar
encourages the growth of yeast and bacteria, making it contribute
to diaper rash, acne, redness, and itching.
Cosmoseuticals: This term, an amalgam of “cosmetics” and
“pharmaceuticals,” refers to active ingredients that have been
researched for their benefits for skin. The FDA does not recognize
the term although companies are using it as a marketing aid,
creating a new category that they claim is more effective.
Cottonseed oil (Gossypium herbaceum): Derived from cotton plants
native to sub-Saharan Africa and Arabia, cottonseed oil can be
mechanically or chemically extracted. Most commercial
 cottonseed oil is solvent (chemically) extracted. Rich in fatty acids,
it’s used for its conditioning effects and can be found in facial
serums, eye makeup, and lip balms. It contains gossypol, a
crystalline compound that’s toxic to livestock and used as a
pesticide. It’s deemed safe for cosmetic use with established limits
on gossypol levels.
Cranberry (Vaccinium erythrocarpum): Cranberries, native to North
America, are high in antioxidants; vitamins C, A, and K; and
proanthocyanidins (see anthocyanins). Cranberry juice, powder,
and extract are all used in skin care to protect against visible signs
of sun and environmental damage, discoloration, and fine lines.
Cranberry seed oil (Vaccinium erythrocarpum): Cold-press extracted
from the seeds, the oil has a unique profile of high essential fatty
acids, vitamin E, and phytosterols (beneficial for hydration and
strengthening skin’s natural protective barrier). It provides a
powerful antioxidant blend that helps prevent sun and free radical
damage, signs of aging, and dehydration. It can stabilize and
extend the shelf life of other, more fragile oils while boosting their
antioxidant properties. The oil also aids in the skin’s absorption of
and ability to use essential fatty acids, plus it tones and tightens.
Cream: Cream is used either fresh or powdered and can replace water
in formulations. It gives lotions a silkier, luscious texture as well as
imparts antioxidants, essential fatty acids, and lactic acid.
Powdered cream is used in powdered masks and exfoliants to
remove dead skin cells and help keep skin hydrated.
Cubeb oil essential oil (Piper cubeba): Extracted from the berries of a
pepper plant native to Indonesian islands, this essential oil has
antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, astringent, and analgesic
properties and helps detoxify skin and clear congested pores.
Cucumber extract (Cucumis sativus): Made from the entire cucumber,
the extract contains all the attributes of each part of the cucumber.
It is generally extracted in glycerin and needs preservation.
 Knowing the ingredient used to preserve it is important in
determining whether the product is acceptable. Research has
shown it can have some skin-lightening, moisturizing, and oil-
producing effects. It is used in creams, after-sun products, lotions,
cleansers, hair care products, and serums.
Cucumber flesh/juice (Cucumis sativus): Primarily composed of water,
cucumber is naturally hydrating and visibly reduces redness and
inflammation while soothing dry and sensitive skin. It contains
ascorbic acid and caffeic acid and can help soothe skin irritations
and reduce swelling. The juice in the flesh is increasingly found in
products aimed at reducing puffiness around eyes and in face
creams to replace some of the water in the formulation to increase
efficacy.
Cucumber hydrosol (Cucumis sativus): Cucumber hydrosol is made
through steam distillation of the whole cucumber. The finished
product looks like water but has a cucumber aroma. It contains all
the attributes of the cucumber and can be used undiluted as a
facial mist, toner, or to replace water in any formulation to increase
efficacy. It is anti-inflammatory, mildly astringent, and reduces
redness and hydrates skin. It is used in facial toners, cleansers,
creams, and body lotions.
Cucumber peel (Cucumis sativus): Cucumber peel is available
powdered and as an extract. It contains a variety of beneficial
minerals including silica, which is essential for healthy connective
tissue. The peel is cooling and mildly astringent. It is used in face
masks, facial toners, and face creams targeting premature aging
and blemishes.
Cucumber seed oil (Cucumis sativus): Generally only used in face care
products, this cold-pressed oil is rich in vitamin E, essential fatty
acids, and antioxidants. It is used to combat signs of aging and to
treat acne, psoriasis, eczema, sunburn, and redness. It is suitable for
all skin types, is noncomedogenic, and is easily absorbed.
Cupuaçu butter (Theobroma grandiflorum): Cupuaçu is a pure plant
butter from the seeds of an Amazonian rain-forest tree. The butter
is easily absorbed and filled with antioxidants, anti-inflammatories,
and essential fatty acids that not only protect skin but also heal,
soothe, smooth, and soften as well as improve skin’s natural
moisture barrier to protect it from environmental damage.
Curculigo orchioides: Also known as black musli, this plant, which is
rich in antioxidants and bioflavonoids, is on the verge of extinction,
making it a controversial ingredient in skin care. It is used in
products for antiaging.
Curcumin: This compound is found in turmeric and has antioxidant,
anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and antifungal properties. Curcumin
will discolor products with an intense yellow if used in a high
percentage, making it hard to obtain an active percentage. It can
stain skin, so when making products at home, it’s best to do a patch
test.
Curry plant essential oil (Helichrysum italicum): From a plant in the
daisy family, this widely used oil is anti-inflammatory,
antimicrobial, antiseptic, fungicidal, and an emollient. It promotes
cell regeneration and is an effective treatment for eczema,
psoriasis, wounds, and burns.
Curry plant extract (Helichrysum italicum): This extract is used in skin
care targeting acne and the effects of aging. It is used topically for
skin care and also medicinally.
Curry plant hydrosol (Helichrysum italicum): This hydrosol has all the
attributes of the essential oil in a less concentrated form and can
be used undiluted as a facial toner or mist, or to replace water in
formulations to increase efficacy. The hydrosol is used in hand
sanitizers, deodorant, and for acne.
Curry plant wax (Helichrysum italicum): Curry plant wax is used as a
thickening agent and for viscosity and texture. It soothes,
moisturizes, softens, and protects skin.
Cyclopentasiloxane: This is a common synthetically manufactured
silicone used in many products. It can replace ingredients such as
glycerin for cost purposes. It’s used as a skin conditioner, emollient,
and lubricant, and for viscosity. Silicone-based products provide
waterproofing and add shine, spreadability, and a silky feeling to
skin, although they can clog pores.
Cypress essential oil (Cupressus sempervirens): From a plant native to
the Mediterranean, cypress essential oil has antibacterial, antiviral,
and antifungal properties and is often used as part of a
preservation system in natural skin care products. It is also used to
treat acne, congested pores, cellulite, oily skin, and rosacea; for
wound healing; as a natural deodorant; and in perfumes and
essential oil blends.
Cypress hydrosol (Cupressus sempervirens): Cypress hydrosol has all
the properties of the essential oil in a non-caustic form and can be
used undiluted or to replace water in a formulation to increase
efficacy. It is used as a toner for oily, sensitive, acne- and rosacea-
prone skin. It is also added to face cleansers and creams and used
as a base in natural deodorants and hand sanitizers.
Cypress leaf extract (Cupressus sempervirens): Cypress leaf extract has
antiviral, antioxidant, and skin-regenerating properties. It does not
have the scent of the essential oil, so it can be used in applications
where the scent is not desirable. It is used in antiaging and acne
products.
Cypress seed oil (Cupressus sempervirens): This seed oil is rich in
essential fatty acids, and research has shown that it absorbs UV
rays. It is used to protect skin against environmental damage and
dehydration and to prevent and reverse signs of aging.
D&C colors: These are synthetic colors approved for use in cosmetics
but not food. (FD&C colors have been approved for both.) While
deemed safe for cosmetics, some people find it controversial that
these colors cannot be used in food but can be used on skin.
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale): All parts of the dandelion are used.
It is high in vitamins A, B complex, and C; and minerals iron,
potassium, calcium, magnesium, and zinc. This nutrient profile
makes it effective in the treatment of acne and wrinkles. It also aids
in hydration and cleansing.
Date extract (Phoenix dactylifera): Date extract is an extremely
concentrated form of the date’s rich nutrient benefits. It is used in
high-end antiaging skin care products that target mature skin to
visibly reduce signs of aging.
Date paste/powder (Phoenix dactylifera): Dates are rich in vitamins,
natural fruit sugars, flavonoids, carotenoids, and phenolic acid (an
antioxidant). They are anti-inflammatory, gently exfoliate, help
clear pores, reduce visible signs of aging, and protect skin from
environmental stressors. Both the paste and the powder can be
used in many skin care products, from face creams and body scrubs
to bath salts and soap.
Date sugar: Date sugar is made by grinding dates without chemical
extraction, additives, chemical process, or solvents. The granules,
which contain all the nutrients of the date, are very small and
dissolve easily in water, so they are used for gentle yet effective
facial and body exfoliants.
DEA oleth-10 phosphate: A surfactant and emulsifier, this substance is
a compound of diethanolamine and oleic acid (a fatty acid) derived
from either plants or animals. It is a controversial ingredient rated
5/10 by the EWG, as it can be cross-contaminated with known
carcinogen ethylene oxide and formaldehyde donor 1,4 dioxane;
other industry insiders consider it safe.
Dead Sea clay: Located in Jordan and Israel, the Dead Sea contains salt
 levels 7 to 10 times greater than the ocean, with skin-healing
properties that are particularly beneficial for psoriasis. The
mineral-rich, soothing clay has a high absorption rate and an ability
to profoundly clean pores and minimize their appearance. It tones,
lifts, and tightens skin and is used to treat face and body acne,
generally in face masks but increasingly in body scrubs, soaps, and
bath soaks.
Dead Sea salt: Harvested from the Dead Sea, the salt is prized for its
healing attributes. Most sea salts are 90% sodium chloride whereas
Dead Sea salt is 10% sodium chloride and has 21 beneficial
minerals for skin. It is used to treat acne, psoriasis, eczema,
dandruff, and muscle soreness, as well as added to bath soaks to
alleviate stress and insomnia.
Decyl glucoside: Considered a mild surfactant, this substance is
derived from glucose and used in baby shampoo and products for
people with sensitive skin.
Decyl oleate: This ingredient is used for its ability to make products
nongreasy, slick, and easily applied. It gives skin a very smooth
appearance and is used in a variety of products such as color
cosmetics, antiaging products, moisturizers, sunscreen, body
creams, and face creams. While generally accepted as safe, it is
comedogenic and can exacerbate acne and heighten other skin
issues such as premature aging.
Deep sea mud/clay: This originated as mud under the sea millions of
years ago, making it rich in algae, macro and micro minerals,
sodium, and sulfur. Its high concentrations of salt and minerals
accelerate natural exfoliation and restore skin’s pH. Used as a mild
exfoliant, it detoxes, reduces cellulite, nourishes, nurtures, and
restores lost nutrients. It has a high absorption rate and penetrates
deep into pores to adhere to and draw out dirt.
Dehydroacetic acid: This preservative is synthetically derived.
Preliminary research on its safety has shown that it’s quickly
 absorbed through the skin and that it is slightly toxic when
administered to rats orally. It is deemed safe for use in cosmetics.
Dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA): Used for mature and aging skin,
DHEA increases hydration and moisture levels and is used as a skin
brightener, to maintain healthy collagen structure, and to reduce
visible signs of aging. It is effective in postmenopausal women as a
conditioning agent addressing the significant changes in skin as
women age.
Deionized water: Since water can constitute up to 80% of a
formulation, the source is critical to the quality of the finished
product. City and tap water can contain chlorine and mineral and
metal ions that can make emulsions difficult and affect the color
and purity of the product. Deionized water has had the ions
removed, although it can still contain other impurities such as
bacteria and viruses. Often, companies will put deionized water
through a purification system or systems such as UV light and
micron filters.
Delphinindin: This plant pigment can provide protection against
oxidative stress, UV damage, and cell damage. It is used in skin care
products targeting the prevention and reversal of visible signs of
aging such as wrinkles and fine lines.
Denatured alcohol: This is alcohol that has had a denaturant added to
render it undrinkable, for use in cosmetics. Denatured alcohol is a
controversial ingredient for both its toxicity and skin benefit
profiles.
Devil’s claw (Harpagophytum procumbens): Native to southern Africa,
the root of this plant was historically used to heal sores, wounds,
and other skin ailments as well as internally to reduce pain and
inflammation. Primarily used for its anti-inflammatory benefits in
eye serums and creams, it is also gaining popularity for bath soaks.
Dextran: This is a glucose polymer produced by polysaccharides and
synthesized by bacteria from sucrose. It is used as a thickening
 agent, to increase moisture levels, to get a smooth creamy
consistency, and as an emollient. It is also said to have anti-
inflammatory and antiaging properties.
Dhupu butter (Vateria indica): These seeds from an endangered
evergreen tree grown in India have a high percentage of oil that is
extracted as butter and used for cooking as well as topically. It is a
fairly rare and expensive butter with a very long shelf life. It is used
in products for label appeal, stability, and its ability to intensely
moisturize.
Diatomaceous earth: This soft powder comes from siliceous
sedimentary rock and contains fossilized remains of phytoplankton.
It is used to kill insects in gardens and carpet, internally for
detoxing, and topically for skin care. It contains high levels of silica.
There is little research on any of the claims, but it is said to be
antifungal, antibacterial, and antiviral and to decongest pores. It is
often used in face masks and exfoliants, although because it is said
to kill insects by slicing them with its sharp edges, this could
potentially cause microdermabrasion when used as an exfoliant.
Diazolidinyl urea: This preservative functions by forming
formaldehyde, which means that although the product label may
not say formaldehyde, it is in the product. It can be derived from
either a plant or animal source. The Contact Dermatitis Institute
warns that it may cause a skin reaction when applied.
Dibutylphthalate (DBP, DMP, DEP): These are phthalates.
Dibutylphthalate (DBP) is a plasticizer used in nail polishes,
dimethylphthalate (DMP) is used in hair sprays, and
diethylphthalate (DEP) is used as a solvent and fixative in
fragrances. In 2010, the FDA claimed that DEP is now the only
phthalate still commonly used.
Dicaprylyl carbonate: Used for its skin-conditioning and emollient
properties, this fat gives a product better spreadability, leaving skin
feeling velvety and smooth. It is nongreasy, making it accessible to
 all skin types. There is little known about whether it is
comedogenic. Usually derived from a vegetable source, there is
some discussion over whether it is also derived from an animal
source.
Dicetyl phosphate: A combination of diesters of cetyl alcohol and
phosphoric acid, this ingredient is used as both a surfactant and an
emollient.
Diethanolamine: Studies have confirmed that this substance is
carcinogenic in animals although there is inadequate evidence to
suggest that it is a possible human carcinogen. It does however
cause skin sensitivity and irritation. Metalworking fluids that
contain diethanolamine cause a high risk of cancer for workers
exposed to it.
Diheptyl succinate: This emollient is a natural alternative to silicone,
giving the same soft, silky, powdery, light, dry, and nongreasy feel
and viscosity. It’s both sustainable and biodegradable, however
there is little information on whether or not it clogs pores.
Diisostearoyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate: This silicone
ingredient is used as an emulsifier to give a silky, smooth texture to
skin. Considered safe for cosmetic use, it does coat and clog pores,
which can cause a number of skin issues. It can be derived from an
animal source.
Diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate: This is a synthetic ester derived from
either plant or animal sources and used as an emollient and skin
conditioner.
Dill essential oil (Anethum graveolens): Extracted from the seeds or
leaves and stems of the herb, this oil is used to heal wounds, keep
breakouts at bay, and reduce signs of aging.
Dill extract (Anethum graveolens): Dill has been used medicinally for
hundreds of years for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial,
antifungal, and antiviral properties. Research has shown it to have
 significant skin penetration, making it a highly potent active
ingredient. It helps maintain skin elasticity; decreases breakouts,
blackheads, and acne; reduces wrinkles and fine lines; and keeps
skin firm and taut.
Dill seed hydrosol (Anethum graveolens): This hydrosol has all the
benefits of the extract and essential oil and can be used undiluted.
It is often used in skin care products such as cleansers and toners to
treat acne, or is added to bathwater to reduce skin inflammation,
redness, and rashes.
Dimethicone: Also known as polydimethylsiloxane dimethicone, this is
a silicon-based polymer. The EWG expresses concerns about organ
system toxicity. It is used as an emollient in conditioners and skin
care products for the glide and smooth, soft, silky feeling it
supplies, although it has no skin benefits, is comedogenic, and is
contraindicated for overall skin health. Because of its ability to coat
skin, it is marketed as an aid to retaining moisture by sealing it in,
however it can actually suffocate skin.
Dipotassium phosphate: This is a synthetic, highly water-soluble salt
used to adjust pH levels and prevent coagulation in products. There
has been little research done on its topical application.
Disodium EDTA: Disodium EDTA is a synthetic preservative, stabilizer,
and chelating agent. Chelating agents prevent ingredients in a
product from binding with trace elements, such as minerals, often
found in tap water. As a result, it’s widely used in rinse-off products
such as cleansers, shampoos, and conditioners. It’s also used in a
variety of other formulations to prevent products from
deteriorating and to maintain clarity. Studies have shown disodium
EDTA to be nontoxic and noncarcinogenic. Some research suggests
it may be slightly mutagenic (changes genetic material), but the
typical concentration in cosmetic products is too low to cause harm
to the human body.
Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate: A mild surfactant, this compound is
 often confused with a sulfate, although it is not. It is often used as
an alternative in sulfite-free products such as body washes, bubble
baths, and shampoos. Overall, it is considered a more natural
alternative since it is biodegradable, but it is made with ethylene
oxide, and any ingredient treated with ethylene oxide can become
contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, a known carcinogen.
Distilled water: Distilled water is the steam collected from boiled
water. This removes salt and most particulates apart from
contaminants such as mercury that boil at a lower temperature
than water and remain in the steam. It is similar to deionized water,
which is generally preferred for skin care, while distilled is
acceptable for soapmaking.
DMAE: From the B vitamin choline, this is an antioxidant membrane
stabilizer. Known for its antiaging and calming effects, it’s been
widely used for years in skin care formulations such as cleansers,
serums, and moisturizers. It’s said to help boost collagen
production while defending against sagging, thinning skin. The
efficacy and safety of DMAE is controversial, though, as some
research has shown that DMAE may actually harm or kill skin cells,
destroying the mechanisms that naturally keep the skin firm. Its
touted antiwrinkle effects may actually be a response to cell
damage, which causes the skin to thicken.
DMDM hydantoin: The biggest concern about this ingredient, which is
primarily used as a preservation system, is that it’s a formaldehyde
donor. Such ingredients release low levels of formaldehyde into a
product. This means formaldehyde won’t be listed on the label but
will be in the product. It is used in many products such as baby
products, shampoos, conditioners, and “all natural” sulfate-free
body washes and shampoos.
Dragonfruit (Hylocereus undatus): Also known as pitahaya, this
tropical fruit contains highly beneficial antioxidants and vitamins
that prevent skin oils from becoming rancid, which deteriorates
collagen and accelerates skin aging. They also help prevent cell
 damage and inflammation, as well as protect against UV rays.
Dragonfruit is a prebiotic, helping maintain a healthy skin
microbiome. The pulp, seeds, and juice are used either fresh or
powdered in skin care.
Dragonfruit extract (Hylocereus undatus): This extract is made solely
from the fruit and is a rich source of vitamin C that skin can
metabolize and use. Skin care companies use synthetic, common,
natural, and fruit sources for vitamin C–enriched products.
Dragonfruit seed oil (Hylocereus undatus): Dragonfruit seed oil is
prized for its rich and extensive essential fatty acid profile as well
as vitamin E. It is an expensive and rare oil extracted through a
cold-press process, making it very pure. A powerful emollient that
leaves skin softer, supple, and hydrated, it helps maintain healthy
collagen, promotes new skin cell production, balances oil
production, and visibly reduces signs of aging. It is nongreasy, easily
absorbed, noncomedogenic, and suitable for every skin type.
Dulse (Palmaria palmata): This red seaweed grows on both the Pacific
and Atlantic Ocean coasts. Packed with vitamins and minerals, the
dried powder form can be found in face masks and exfoliants. It
contains a high concentration of polyunsaturated fatty acids that
nourish and protect skin’s natural oil barrier to keep skin looking
firm, plump, and youthful. Due to its high antioxidant content, it
protects skin by warding off free radical damage.
Dyer’s broom extract (Genista tinctoria): From a shrub with beautiful
yellow flowers, this extract is used as a natural dye for yellow hues
and in soapmaking. It is also a rich source of flavonoids and used in
antiaging face creams.
Egg (ovum): Egg whites contain high levels of collagen, vitamin A, and
proteins vital for maintaining youthful, healthy skin. They help
maintain elasticity, reduce inflammation, minimize the appearance
of pores, and make skin look taut, tight, and lifted. There is some
controversy about whether or not the collagen in eggs has any
transdermal penetration. They are primarily used commercially in
face masks and often in a powdered form. When using eggs for skin
benefits, it is best to find ones from hens that have not been treated
with antibiotics.
Elastin protein, hydrolyzed: This protein generally comes from fish and
contains specific proteins found in the connective tissue of the skin
and blood vessels. Elastin is important for maintaining youthful skin
and is used to revitalize, nurture, moisturize, and visibly reduce the
appearance of wrinkles, sagging, and fine lines.
Elderberry fruit extract (Sambucus nigra): The most common type of
elderberry is native to Europe. Elderberries are packed with
powerful antioxidants such as vitamin C, flavonoids, anthocyanins,
and phenolic acids. Elderberry visibly reduces inflammation,
protects skin from environmental stressors and free radical
damage, and prevents signs of aging. It has also been shown to
fight harmful bacteria, making it beneficial in the treatment of
acne.
Elderberry seed oil (Sambucus nigra): This oil is used to treat many skin
conditions, from acne and psoriasis to burns and inflammation. It
has antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory
properties. Studies have shown it accelerates wound healing and
the production of collagen. It is used in face creams and oils
targeting acne and aging.
Elemi essential oil (Canarium luzonicum): Made from the elemi tree’s
resin, this essential oil is used to balance oil production in mature,
dry, or oily skin, and has antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-
inflammatory properties. It is often added to face creams and
serums.
Elemi extract (Canarium luzonicum): Elemi extract can be in either
glycerin or alcohol and is used for its ability to help tone, tighten,
and firm skin. It is antiviral and antibacterial, making it useful for
both mature and acne-prone skin.
Elemi resin (Canarium luzonicum): Elemi resin has the same scent and
attributes of the essential oil but has a solid, gum-like texture and
can be added to creams and lotions for texture, viscosity,
creaminess, and scent.
Eleuthero (Eleutherococcus senticosus): Also known as Siberian
ginseng, eleuthero is a deciduous shrub native to the taiga regions
of East Asia. Because of possible confusion with Panax, or American
ginseng, it’s currently illegal in the United States to market
eleuthero as ginseng. Known for its anti-inflammatory and
antiaging benefits, it firms, tones, and lifts sagging skin. The roots
and leaves are rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants.
Excellent at fighting and protecting against free radical damage,
eleuthero also promotes collagen production for supple, youthful-
looking skin. It can be found in skin care products for antiaging and
eyes.
Emollient: An emollient soothes and softens skin. Emollients can be
essential fatty acids, oils, or other ingredients that keep skin
hydrated and prevent water loss. They differ from moisturizers in
that an emollient is just one of the ingredients in a moisturizer.
Emu oil: Made from fat collected from deposits below the bird’s skin,
emu oil is anti-inflammatory and has some antioxidant potential. It
is used as a massage oil and in salves for wound healing and pain.
Research suggests it increases healthy skin cells and reduces the
appearance of wrinkles. Its small particles allow it to effectively
penetrate skin. Some people experience sensitivity when using it
undiluted.
Emulsifier/emulsion: An emulsifier is an additive that enables two
liquids that would not normally mix together (such as oil and
 water) to form a cohesive and stable substance (an emulsion). In
any cosmetic formulation that contains water and oil, an emulsifier
is necessary.
Eperua falcata bark extract (Eperua falcata): Also known as wallaba,
eperua is native to Africa, Brazil, and Venezuela. The bark and resin
are anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, and contain bioflavonoids.
The extract is used to treat rosacea, signs of aging, and acne and to
prevent damage from environmental stress.
Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG): This substance in green tea is isolated
and used undiluted to boost skin’s protective barrier. It increases
hydration levels; reduces signs of aging, wrinkles, and fine lines;
generates new skin cells and healthy collagen; and protects against
free radicals and environmental stress. It is also anti-inflammatory.
It’s a highly regarded and common ingredient in face care products
targeting dehydration, aging, and acne.
Epsom salt: This is not actually salt but a naturally occurring pure
mineral compound of magnesium and sulfate. Studies have shown
that it has significant transdermal penetration, which led doctors to
suggest baths of Epsom salts for patients with magnesium
deficiency. It is widely used in products as an exfoliant, immune
system booster, and foot soak, and for dry skin, acne, and sore
muscles.
Essential fatty acids: Essential fatty acids, which are not manufactured
by the human body, are required for proper biological function and
must be found in the diet. Those found in the epidermis maintain
the skin’s protective barrier, while those in the dermis help reduce
inflammation and prevent collagen damage. Lack of essential fatty
acids causes dehydration, premature aging, skin sensitivity, slower
wound healing, and scaly skin. A high content of essential fatty
acids also helps deliver other nutrients, vitamins, and active
ingredients.
Essential oils (see each individual oil for its benefits): Essential oils are
 made in a steam distillation process that extracts the oil from
freshly picked plants. The oils can also be extracted through a
chemical process, but those are not considered essential oils. They
are used in many skin and body products for their
aromatherapeutic properties as well as their active ingredient
profile. Using the correct dosage of each essential oil is extremely
important, and they should never be used undiluted. Purity of
product ranges widely. They also contain volatile organic
compounds (VOCs) that can cause dizziness, fatigue, headache, and
memory impairment. Currently not much is known about the long-
term effects or the safe level of VOCs.
Ester-C: A manufactured combination of vitamin C and primarily
calcium ascorbate, Ester-C is said to more easily penetrate skin
because of its fat solubility. More stable than vitamin C alone,
Ester-C is believed to be less vulnerable to environmental exposure
breakdown. Antioxidant-rich and touted for its anti-inflammatory,
elasticity-enhancing, and skin-brightening benefits, it can be found
in a wide range of skin care products, including serums and
moisturizers.
Esters: Esters are an emollient that help smooth skin texture and
protect against environmental damage. They are a modified fatty
substance made when an organic acid is combined with an alcohol.
They don’t feel oily when applied, unlike some other emollients,
but are highly effective at treating both dry and oily skin.
Ethanol: Ethanol is a type of alcohol produced by fermenting starches
such as corn, wheat, and potatoes or sugars such as sugarcane or
sweet sorghum with yeasts or through petrochemical processes.
When used as a main ingredient in topical products, it can dry out,
sensitize, and even erode the skin’s surface, accelerating signs of
aging. It’s often found in toners and wipes, particularly those
intended for oily skin due to its astringent, degreasing, and quick-
drying nature. It also acts as an antimicrobial, anti-foaming, and
viscosity-decreasing agent.
Ethoxydiglycol: This synthetic liquid solvent and carrier is used to thin
products and increase penetration of other ingredients. Often used
in facial serums, lotions, and shampoos, it also acts as a humectant,
working to maintain moisture and reduce moisture loss from skin
and hair. Studies show that ethoxydiglycol is safe for cosmetic use.
It does, however, contain ether, which is associated with issues such
as cancer, allergic reactions, and endocrine disruption.
Ethylhexyl olivate: A natural, fatty-acid emollient derived from olive
oil, ethylhexyl olivate can serve as an alternative to silicones to
improve the feel and spreadability of products such as creams,
lotions, and moisturizers. It prolongs skin hydration, which can
increase elasticity for smooth, supple, younger-looking skin.
Ethylhexyl palmitate: Synthesized or derived from plant or animal
sources, ethylhexyl palmitate is a mixture of fatty alcohol and
palmitic acid. It acts as an emollient and texture enhancer to adjust
the consistency of products such as moisturizers and lotions. It has
a similar feel to silicone and is often used as an alternative. There
are no major side effects associated with it, and it’s generally
regarded as safe for cosmetic use.
Ethylhexylglycerin: This is used primarily as a preservative and is
becoming increasingly popular as an alternative to parabens. The
EWG gives it a rating of 1/10 although there have been very few
studies. Manufacturers claim it to be all natural, and while it does
come from a natural source (glycerin [glycerol] found in animal fat
and vegetable oil), it undergoes many chemical processes.
Ethylparaben: Derived from plants and used as an antifungal
preservative in a wide range of products such as lotions,
moisturizers, and deodorants, parabens are popular for their gentle
efficacy. A study showed a connection between parabens and
cancer due to their estrogen-mimicking properties, although the
evidence isn’t conclusive and parabens are currently deemed safe
for cosmetic use in low concentrations.
Eucalyptus essential oil (Eucalyptus globulus Labill): Derived from
evergreen trees in the myrtle family, this oil is used to boost the
immune system, fight infections, calm headaches, repel insects, and
for its antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties.
The broad spectrum of properties make it a popular ingredient for
many products such as pain salves and bath soaks, deodorants and
body lotions.
Eucalyptus hydrosol (Eucalyptus globulus Labill): This hydrosol has all
the benefits and properties of the essential oil in a noncaustic form
that can be used undiluted and to replace water in formulations to
increase efficacy. It is highly versatile and used for acne toners,
cleansers, natural deodorants, body lotions for pain relief, and
calming sprays.
Evening primrose oil (Oenothera oleum): Extracted from the seeds of a
North American wildflower, this oil is rich in linoleic acid, which is
critical for maintaining healthy skin, plus essential fatty acids. It has
been shown to increase skin’s moisture levels, elasticity, and
firmness, and to smooth out roughness. It’s also an exceptional
anti-inflammatory and is beneficial in treating atopic dermatitis.
Exfoliant: An exfoliant is a product or ingredient that removes dead
skin cells from the surface of the skin. Physical exfoliators like salt
or sugar are used to manually remove dead skin cells, while
chemical exfoliators like alpha hydroxy acid dissolve the substance
that holds cells together.

Fennel bulb extract (Foeniculum vulgare): Fennel bulb is rich in amino

acids, vitamins, and minerals. The extract is used to reduce
inflammation and for overall skin health. It is beneficial for all skin
types and protects against environmental damage and premature
 aging.
Fennel essential oil (Foeniculum vulgare): Extracted from fennel seeds,
this essential oil is a potent antibacterial with antioxidant,
antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties. It is used in perfumes
and essential oil blends and topically on mature skin to prevent
and reverse wrinkles, and to treat cellulite, congested pores, acne,
and oily skin.
Fennel seed hydrosol (Foeniculum vulgare): Fennel seed hydrosol has
all the benefits of the essential oil in a less caustic form and can be
used undiluted or to replace water in formulations to increase
efficacy. It is used in cleansers and toners targeting acne and aging
skin.
Fennel seed oil, cold-pressed (Foeniculum vulgare): The oil is rich in
vitamin C, potassium, calcium, and iron. It is antibacterial,
accelerates skin regeneration, and encourages healthy collagen. It
is used in face oils for mature and dehydrated skin as well as in
spot treatments for acne.
Fenugreek seed extract (Trigonella foenum-graecum L.): From an
annual plant native to Asia and Africa, this seed extract provides
anti-inflammatory properties and is used to treat eczema,
inflammation, and wrinkles. It is used in both skin care and bath
soaks.
Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium): A member of the sunflower family
native to Europe, feverfew is rich in antioxidants and is an anti-
inflammatory. In skin care it is used for sensitive skin and to combat
rosacea as well as in antiaging products.
Flavonoids: Flavonoids are a large and diverse group of phytonutrients
found in a wide range of fruits and vegetables. Studies show that
flavonoids protect against environmental damage, retard signs of
aging, are anti-inflammatory, and help maintain healthy collagen.
They are used in both synthetic and natural forms in face creams,
face oils, and face serums targeting the prevention and reversal of
 aging.
Flaxseed oil (Linum usitatissimum L.): This oil, generally extracted
through a cold process is anti-inflammatory and emollient. It has a
short shelf life and is sensitive to both heat and light and so should
be stored refrigerated in a dark container. Its high concentration of
omega-3s and antioxidants make it useful topically for dehydration
and signs of aging. Ground seeds can be used as a gentle exfoliant.
Floral water: While a hydrosol is produced through steam distillation,
floral waters can be any type of water, from tap to distilled, with
the drop of an essential oil or fragrance oil. Companies sometimes
call their product a hydrosol when in fact it is a floral water.
Flower essence: A true flower essence is a sun infusion of flowers that
are macerated and preserved in brandy. They were developed by
Dr. Edward Bach in the 1930s, who said they carry the vibrational
imprint of the flower and all of its attributes. They are used
medicinally and are becoming an extremely popular topical
application in natural skin care.
Formaldehyde: While formaldehyde occurs naturally in everything
from cabbage to human bodies, the formaldehyde used in
cosmetics is a colorless, flammable, strong-smelling chemical that
studies have shown causes cancer in rats and workers exposed to it.
There are also many ingredients (e.g., diazolidinyl urea) that are
formaldehyde donors, which means they release formaldehyde
although it is not listed on the product label.
Fragrance: Fragrance encompasses a large category of ingredients
used to impart scent to a product. They can also be chemically
created to mimic natural essential oils. On a label, fragrance can
mean a mixture of synthetic chemicals or a single fragrance.
They’re taking a lot of heat in the cosmetic industry, especially in
the natural sector, because they can contain phthalates and other
toxic chemicals. Additionally, there’s more research coming out
about the hazards of breathing in fragrance from candles, air
 cleansers, and other products that disperse fragrance into the air.
Frangipani absolute (Plumeria rubra): Also known as the Hawaiian lei
flower, frangipani is native to the tropics. The absolute is expensive
but more accessible than frangipani essential oil. It is used in
perfumes and essential oil blends but is made through solvent
extraction as opposed to steam distillation.
Frangipani essential oil (Plumeria rubra): Made from frangipani
flowers, this extremely expensive and relatively rare essential oil is
used in perfumes and some essential oil blends. Beyond its
beautiful aroma, it is said to have antioxidant, antibacterial,
antiviral, and anti-inflammatory properties.
Frangipani extract (Plumeria rubra): This extract from the frangipani
flowers has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and is
useful in the treatment of pain and inflammation.
Frangipani hydrosol (Plumeria rubra): While hydrosols are generally
the most accessible way to get an aroma and the beneficial profile
of an ingredient, frangipani hydrosol is rare and expensive. It is
used in toners, face creams, and cleansers.
Frankincense (Boswellia carterii): There are many types of Boswellia
trees that produce essential oils and other ingredients used in
cosmetics, but carterii is the one most commonly known as
frankincense. The extract is anti-inflammatory and used in skin care
targeting aging, acne, and psoriasis.
Frankincense essential oil (Boswellia carterii): Used in perfumes and
essential oil blends for both skin and body care, this oil is very
expensive and generally used in small amounts. There is promising
research on its effectiveness at killing cancer cells. Topically, it is
used in skin care for damaged mature skin, blemishes and
blackheads, fungal infections, psoriasis, and to promote cell
regeneration.
Frankincense hydrosol (Boswellia carterii): This hydrosol has all the
 attributes of the essential oil in a less caustic form that can be used
undiluted or to replace water in formulations to increase efficacy.
Extremely versatile, it can be used in toners, bath soaks, foot soaks,
and facial sprays to reduce breakouts, repair wrinkles, and heal
scars. It also reduces inflammation and helps combat oily skin.
Frankincense resin (Boswellia carterii): This hard, gum-like resin can be
used in face and body lotions and creams to impart the benefits in
the scent and to add viscosity and texture.
French green clay: Also called illite, this clay is used for exfoliation and
pore-tightening. The green color comes from decomposed plant
material and iron oxide. Good quality clay should be dark green. It
is very absorbent and not only draws oils and debris from pores but
also pulls blood to the surface of the skin, boosting circulation. It
visibly reduces inflammation, tones, and minimizes the appearance
of pores.

Gamma linolenic acid (GLA): GLA is a skin-smoothing, unsaturated fatty

acid found naturally in black currant oil/seeds, evening primrose
oil, and borage oil. It’s used in skin care formulations such as
moisturizers and creams as an emollient and antioxidant. It’s
effective in treating a number of skin conditions, including
dermatitis, eczema, dryness, and psoriasis, by preventing water loss.
Research suggests that GLA has wound-healing and anti-
inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for those with acne.
Garlic essential oil (Allium sativum): This essential oil has a strong
garlic odor. Garlic is used medicinally for its antibacterial, anti-
inflammatory, and antiviral properties. Topically, garlic is generally
used to treat acne.
Garlic oil (Allium sativum): Garlic oil is an infusion of garlic in a carrier
oil. It provides the same benefits as the essential oil but can come
in odorless form. DIYers often make and use it to alleviate acne.
Geranium essential oil (Pelargonium graveolens): From a perennial
shrub native to South Africa and now widely cultivated, this oil is
often included in essential oil blends. It has antibacterial properties
and is used for eczema, fungal infections, and aging skin.
Geranium essential wax (Pelargonium graveolens): Extracted from the
flowers, geranium wax is an emollient and thickening agent that
gives products a creamy feel. It is used in skin care and body lotions
for its calming, nurturing effects and astringent properties.
Ginger (Zingiber officinale): Ginger is a perennial plant commonly
used in culinary applications. It has antioxidant and anti-
inflammatory properties that protect against free radicals,
environmental damage, and signs of aging. It gently draws out
toxins, excess oil, and impurities from skin; tones; stimulates; and
visibly increases firmness.
Ginger hydrosol (Zingiber officinale): Ginger hydrosol has antioxidants
and anti-inflammatories that can be used undiluted or to replace
water in formulations to increase efficacy. It is used in facial
cleansers and toners for oily and acne-prone skin.
Ginkgo extract (Ginkgo biloba): Native to Asia, ginkgo is thought to be
one of the oldest species of tree on Earth. While it has been used
internally for some time, topically it is a relatively new ingredient
and results are undetermined. It is filled with antioxidants, helps
balance oil production, and retards signs of aging.
Glacier clay: Traditionally from Canada, glacier clay comes from
glacial settlement and is rich in marine compounds, vitamins, and
nutrients. It is used to remove toxins and dead skin cells, stimulate
circulation, and replenish nutrients.
Glucose oxidase: This synthetic enzyme can also be found naturally in
 bee pollen and honey. It functions as a skin and hair conditioning
agent in products such as creams, lotions, and conditioners. Also
used as a stabilizer, it acts as the catalyst in the oxidation of
glucose sugar to produce hydrogen peroxide.
Glutamine: Glutamine is the most abundant amino acid in the human
body and plays a role in more metabolic processes than any other
amino acid. Topically, glutamine is valued for its skin-replenishing
properties. It is believed to promote youthful-looking skin, and so it
is often used in antiaging serums.
Glutathione: This powerful antioxidant naturally occurs in the human
body, plants, and animals. Research suggests that production
gradually decreases with age, which may contribute to visible signs
of aging. A combination of three amino acids, glutathione defends
against free radical damage, protecting and rejuvenating skin when
applied topically. Studies have shown it to improve skin
smoothness and reduce wrinkles, making it beneficial in antiaging
products such as serums, moisturizers, and masks.
Glycereth-6 laurate: This synthetic ester is essentially the same as
glycereth-26 and is used as a surfactant and emulsifier in
cosmetics.
Glycereth-26/Glycereth-26 phosphate: This is a synthetic ester derived
from glycerin that comes from animal or vegetable oils. Considered
safe for cosmetic use, it is found in body lotions, moisturizers,
sunscreens, and hair care products as a skin conditioner, thickener,
humectant, and foam booster.
Glycerin/glycerol: Glycerin can have either animal or vegetable origins
and is a naturally occurring alcohol compound and a part of many
lipids. It is a by-product of soap manufacturing. It is used as a
humectant, conditioning agent, and solvent to protect skin, as well
as for viscosity.
Glycerol monostearate (GMS): This substance is naturally produced by
the human body but can be synthesized by reacting glycerin with
 stearic acid (a naturally occurring fatty acid in plants and animals).
Considered safe for topical application, it is used as a thickener,
lubricant, and emollient in cleansers, moisturizers, creams, lotions,
and baby products. When used on skin, GMS gives a soft, smooth,
nongreasy look and feel.
Glycerol triacetate: Also called triacetin, the primary function of this
compound is to prevent microbial growth in products. It’s also used
as a plasticizer, solvent, and fragrance carrier in hair care, creams,
and nail polishes. Considered safe for cosmetic use, glycerol
triacetate is also a Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) human
food ingredient per the FDA.
Glyceryl behenate: This fatty acid acts as a penetration enhancer for
other ingredients. It’s also an emollient, surfactant, emulsifier, and
skin-conditioning agent produced synthetically or derived from
refined vegetable oils. It is widely used in facial products such as
serums, moisturizers, liquid foundations, and lipsticks because it is
noncomedogenic. It’s considered safe for cosmetic use but the EWG
rates it 4/10 on its hazard scale because there’s strong evidence
that it’s an irritant when aerosolized. It should also be noted that its
penetration enhancement/increased absorption is favorable only if
blended with beneficial ingredients.
Glyceryl cocoate: A surfactant made from glycerin and coconut fatty
acids, this mild, moisturizing, water-soluble emollient is used in
soaps, body washes, and hair products. Research suggests it may be
an irritant, and so it should not be used in aerosols or products
intended for use around the eyes. It can also act as a penetration
enhancer.
Glyceryl dibehenate: A combination of glycerin and the fatty acid
behenic acid, it’s often used as a thickener in cosmetic products
such as creams, balms, and concealers. It also serves as an
emollient and skin conditioner and is rated 1/10 on the EWG’s
hazard scale.
Glyceryl distearate: This is a compound of glycerin and stearic acid (a
naturally occurring fatty acid in plants and animals). It’s used in
skin care formulations such as lotions and creams for its
conditioning and emollient properties.
Glyceryl esters: These are a large category of ingredients made from
glycerin and fatty acids. They range from oily liquids to waxy solids
and are used in skin and hair care products as emollients and
lubricants as well as water-binding and thickening agents. They are
generally considered safe for cosmetic use in specified
concentrations.
Glyceryl myristate: Synthesized from glycerin and myristic acid (a fatty
acid found in nutmeg, palm oil, coconut oil, butterfat, and sperm
whale oil), this is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics,
with the exception of aerosol products, and can be found in
moisturizers, liquid foundations, shaving creams, and hair care as
an emollient and surfactant.
Glyceryl oleate: Made from glycerin and oleic acid (a naturally
occurring fatty acid found in animal and vegetable fats and oils), it
helps emulsify ingredients in a formulation. It also functions as an
emollient, and its pleasant scent makes it popular in fragrance
products as well as hair care, makeup, and skin care products.
Glyceryl palmitate: This synthetic surfactant, emulsifier, and emollient
is used to thicken products such as creams, lotions, and
moisturizers, giving them a smooth, creamy feel. The combination
of glycerin and palmitic acid (a common saturated fatty acid found
in animals, plants, and microorganisms) is considered safe for
cosmetic use, though it can be an airborne irritant, so it should not
be used in aerosol products.
Glycine soja oil: A natural vegetable oil extracted from soybean seeds,
this ingredient contains high concentrations of genistein (a
phytoestrogen), vitamin E, essential fatty acids, and lecithin. A
powerful antioxidant, when applied topically it can help protect
 skin by neutralizing free radicals. It’s also deeply moisturizing and
believed to possess anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial
properties. It’s a popular ingredient in a variety of skin care
products including face and body oils, lip balms, moisturizers, and
lotions.
Glycine soja seed extract: This soybean seed extract is a powerful
moisturizer when used topically. Full of amino acids, proteins,
vitamins, and minerals, it can be found in many products such as
soaps, lotions and hair care and skin care products. As an
antioxidant, it combats free radical damage, reducing the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while stimulating collagen
production, making it a popular ingredient in antiaging skin care
formulations.
Glycine soja sterols: Sterols are solid, complex alcohols that lubricate
and condition skin and hair. They can come from both plant and
animal sources. Glycine soja sterols are derived from the soybean
plant and can be found in moisturizers, hair care, and eye creams.
Glycolic acid: This acid has the smallest molecular weight of all the
alpha hydroxy acids and therefore has significant transdermal
penetration. Dermatologists prefer glycolic acid for facial peels.
Glycolic acid is also anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. It can be
naturally derived from sugarcane, but the synthetic form is most
common in skin care.
Glycolipids: Glycolipids are fats containing carbohydrates/sugars
found naturally in the human body. Often used as a surfactant and
foam booster, glycolipids are found in products such as shampoos
and body washes. Studies suggest that, when applied topically,
glycolipids have profound moisturizing effects and improve the
barrier function of skin to prevent moisture loss, making them
popular in serums and moisturizers for dry skin.
Glycyrrhetinic acid: This active organic compound is isolated from
licorice root extract. Known for its anti-inflammatory and skin-
 soothing properties, it’s used in serums, moisturizers, and lotions to
restore suppleness to dry, damaged, and/or flaky skin. Studies also
suggest that it may encourage cell regeneration in UV-damaged
skin.
Goat milk: Goat and cow milk share the same nutritional properties,
but goat milk is more easily absorbed by skin. It is gentle enough
for all skin types, and packed with essential fatty acids, vitamins,
nutrients, antioxidants, and lactic acid. A natural emollient, goat
milk has an alkaline pH that is perfectly compatible with skin,
allowing for quick absorption and hydration. The lactic acid helps
remove dead cells from the skin’s surface and enhance its natural
moisture levels. It’s currently very popular in products such as
soaps, shampoos, face creams, and body lotions.
Goji berry oil (Lycium barbarum): This oil is a highly concentrated
source of the active ingredients along with essential fatty acids. It is
a powerhouse ingredient in antiaging products and suitable for all
skin types, as it is noncomedogenic, nongreasy, and easily
absorbed.
Goji berry or wolfberry (Lycium barbarum): Native to China, goji
berries are a superstar antioxidant packed with minerals, amino
acids, carotenoids, and polysaccharides that together help firm,
tone, and tighten skin. They also protect it from environmental
stress, reduce signs of aging, combat wrinkles, increase hydration,
brighten skin, and help maintain a healthy glow. Relatively new in
skin care, it is primarily used in face care products to prevent and
reverse signs of aging.
Gold: Gold is currently hot in the cosmetic industry, with products
containing it carrying a hefty price tag and spas offering pricey
gold facials. There is no current evidence or research to
substantiate the claims of any actual benefits in skin care, and
because gold is not soluble, it cannot be absorbed or used by the
skin.
Goldenseal (Hydrastis canadensis): Native to the United States and
Canada, this perennial herb contains berberine, which is considered
to be antibiotic, antibacterial, and antiviral. It is used in skin care to
treat acne, in nail oils and foot soaks targeting fungus, and in bath
soaks for women’s health.
Gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa): This extract contains polyphenol,
flavonoids, vitamins A and C, and anthocyanin. Studies have shown
it to be an antifungal and effective in the treatment of candida.
Gooseberries are used to prevent signs of aging, visibly reduce
wrinkles and fine lines, and treat acne.
Gotu kola (Centella asiatica): Native to Asia and South Africa, this
perennial plant is rich in antioxidants and flavonoids that visibly
improve tone and tautness, fight fine lines and wrinkles, reduce
signs of aging, boost collagen, and prevent breakouts. Gota kola is
currently one of the most sought-after ingredients for antiaging
skin care.
Gotu kola oil: (Centella asiatica): Also known as brahmi oil, this is not a
true oil but gotu kola extract combined with sesame and/or
coconut oil. It is traditionally used in Ayurvedic medicine for scalp
treatment, skin care, soaps, lotions, and to combat stress.
Grape (Vitis vinifera): Grape juice without the skin or seeds is a source
of antioxidants, but it also contains condensed tannins, natural fruit
sugars, and anthocyanins. These components are highly beneficial
when added to facial cleansers, toners, and exfoliants. The
antioxidant properties protect skin against signs of aging, while the
grape pulp and juice help keep pores clean, exfoliate dead skin
cells, and resurface and revitalize skin.
Grape alcohol, organic (Vitis vinifera): There are many types of alcohol
in skin care and all are very different. Made from red wine grapes,
organic grape alcohol is extremely expensive, making it an
uncommon ingredient. It is used as a preserver, a superhero
bacteria-slayer, and an astringent, and it promotes maximum
 efficacy of all other ingredients. Alcohols in too high concentration
can be drying and slightly irritating to sensitive skin.
Grape leaf extract (Vitis vinifera): This extract has anti-inflammatory
and antioxidant benefits as well as being astringent. It is suitable
for all skin types and often used in conjunction with other grape
extracts to enhance the capabilities of each. It’s used in antiaging
products, as well as in cleansers and toners.
Grape-seed oil (Vitis vinifera): A by-product of winemaking, grape-seed
oil comes from pressing the seeds. It is a natural antioxidant and
contains alpha-hydroxy acids, essential fatty acids, and other
nutrients that make it ideal for aging skin. It also contains anti-
inflammatory and antibacterial properties and is noncomedogenic,
so it is often used in products targeting breakouts, blemishes,
blackheads, and acne. The oil improves skin’s elasticity and
suppleness, evens skin tone, reduces dehydration, and protects
against sun damage.
Grape skin extract (Vitis vinifera): The concentration of antioxidants in
grape skin extract makes it a valuable ingredient in face care and
body care products for antiaging. It is also used in soapmaking,
where it imparts a lovely light color.
Grape vine extract (Vitis vinifera): Grape vine extract is astringent and
anti-inflammatory and is used to treat varicose veins. It is generally
added to body lotions and creams for smooth, supple, soft, vibrant
skin.
Grapefruit essential oil (Citrus grandis): This essential oil has a sweet,
pungent aroma that is very popular. Studies on its
aromatherapeutic effects are generalized and broad; it is said to
uplift mood and enhance joy. It is generally used for its aroma and
in scent blends in everything from body lotions, bath salts, and
shampoo to body wash and body scrubs.
Grapefruit extract (Citrus grandis): Extracted from the entire grapefruit
in either water or oil, and also available in powdered form, this
 extract contains alpha hydroxy acids, polysaccharides, vitamin B6,
and antioxidants. It is hydrating, helps exfoliate dead skin cells, and
is mildly astringent. It is used in body lotions, face creams, face
masks, and face serums.
Grapefruit peel extract (Citrus grandis): Grapefruit peel is rich in
bioflavonoids, which makes it advantageous in antiaging products,
although it also contains an ingredient that can cause
photosensitivity.
Grapefruit seed extract (Citrus grandis): Alone, this ingredient is
harmless, but it is often contaminated by other ingredients such as
methylparaben, triclosan, and benzethonium chloride. Grapefruit
seed extract has been used as a preservation system. Since
methylparaben, triclosan, and benzethonium chloride appear in
the extract through contamination during processing, they are not
listed on the label. Contamination can be an issue with all extracts
but is a particular concern with grapefruit seed extract as it tends
to get cross-contaminated more than others. Companies now claim
their grapefruit seed extract has been tested and is not
contaminated. While that answers one issue, what the seed is
extracted in is another matter. A common ingredient used for
extractions is propylene glycol. There are however clean
extractions in carriers such as jojoba oil or pure alcohol.
Green tea extract (Camellia sinensis): Green, white, and black tea all
come from the same plant, the difference being the level of
oxidation. Green tea is less oxidized then black and more than
white. It contains antioxidants and anti-inflammatory polyphenols.
Green tea is a powerhouse ingredient used to combat acne as it
helps reduce oil production, and to reduce wrinkles in aging skin.
Its potent antioxidants visibly reduce signs of aging and protect
skin from damage caused by pollutants, free radicals, and UV
radiation. It may also help improve the appearance of damaged
skin by helping tone and improve elasticity to decrease sagging
and fine lines.
Grey salt: Also known as sel gris, this salt is hand harvested from clay-
lined salt ponds in the Guérande region of France. This gives it its
color as well as a rich supply of minerals. Used in skin care for its
high trace mineral content, it is primarily used in products for
bathing or exfoliating.
Guaiacwood essential oil (Guaiacum officinale): Produced from the
wood of a tree native to the Caribbean, this essential oil is used for
its firming and tightening effects to help prevent sagging skin and
wrinkles. It is also used in perfumes and essential oil blends for
scenting skin care, bath, and body products.
Guar gum (Cyamopsis tetragonoloba): The guar plant has been
cultivated in India and Pakistan for centuries. Guar gum is a
thickening and binding agent derived from the endosperm of guar
seeds. It functions as a skin and hair conditioner and is used in
products such as creams, lotions, and hair care. Studies have shown
that it may have anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties
while also extending the shelf life of products.
Guarana seed extract (Paullinia cupana): This extract comes from the
seeds of the Amazonian guarana plant. It has twice the amount of
caffeine as coffee beans. Though more research needs to be done
on its topical effects, it’s believed to have antioxidant and
antibacterial properties, protecting skin against damage. Studies
have shown that caffeine can help tone and tighten skin, reduce
the appearance of cellulite, and flush toxins. Its powerful anti-
inflammatory actions make it a popular ingredient in eye creams
and serums where it restricts blood vessels to reduce puffiness.
Guava (Psidium guajava): Guava fruits grow on small evergreen trees
native to the Caribbean and Central and South America. All parts of
the fruit are used both medicinally and topically. The fruit, leaves,
and seeds have different benefits. The fruit is filled with
antioxidants, flavonoids, tannins, ascorbic acid, and natural fruit
sugars. The pulp is beneficial in cleansing, removing congestion
from pores, exfoliating, relieving pain, and in salves for infections. It
 visibly reduces fine lines and wrinkles and protects skin against
environmental damage. The fruit can be used powdered or fresh.
Guava fruit extract (Psidium guajava): Packed with antioxidants,
vitamins, minerals, and nutrients, guava is thought to have skin-
protecting properties while toning and brightening skin. Its natural
astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial qualities make it a
popular ingredient in a wide variety of skin and hair care products.
It’s particularly valued in antiaging, acne-fighting, and clarifying
formulations.
Guava leaf essential oil (Psidium guajava): This essential oil is highly
concentrated and has all the benefits of the extract, but it is also
used for its aroma. Topically, it is used for athlete’s foot and in
salves and lotions for pain relief and infections.
Guava leaf extract (Psidium guajava): Anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and
antibacterial, this extract is effective in the treatment of acne as
well as reducing infections and accelerating wound healing.
Research suggests it can lighten and brighten skin while protecting
against UV and environmental damage. Guava extract is growing in
popularity for targeting both acne and aging.
Guava seed oil (Psidium guajava): Guava seed oil is cold-pressed
without any solvents or chemical extractions, making it a pure and
light oil easily absorbed by the skin. It’s rich in lycopene; beta-
carotene; vitamins A, B, C, E, and K; and minerals. It also has
antibacterial and antiviral properties. It improves skin texture,
decreases sagging, increases elasticity, reverses signs of wrinkles,
and combats acne.

Hawthorn berries (Crataegus species): A plant in the rose family,

 hawthorn is rich in bioflavonoids and antioxidants and is often used
in extract form in face care products targeting the effects of aging.
It is imperative to know what it is extracted in to determine its
efficacy and possible toxicity.
Hazelnut flour (Corylus avellana): Also known as a filbert, hazelnuts
come from a tree that grows mostly in Turkey, Italy, Spain, and the
United States. They contain protein, B vitamins, vitamin E,
magnesium, copper, essential fatty acids, and high levels of
antioxidants. The nuts are finely ground into a flour that is used as
a gentle exfoliant that also moisturizes, protects, and nurtures skin.
Hazelnut oil (Corylus avellana): This cold-pressed oil has the same
nutrient content as the nut meat in a more concentrated form. It is
noncomedogenic and easily absorbed, making it suitable for all
skin types, including sensitive skin. It’s a potent moisturizer and
contains antioxidants and mildly astringent tannins, which help to
reduce pore size, eliminate bacteria, and decongest pores. This oil
increases collagen production and revitalizes skin tone. It is used to
reduce wrinkles, fine lines, sun damage, and hyperpigmentation.
Hectorite: Hectorite is a natural white clay derived from a rare, soft
mineral. Rich in sodium and magnesium, it is known for its drawing
properties, clearing congested pores of impurities and rancid oils. It
can be found in a variety of skin care products, particularly masks,
and is suitable for both oily and dry complexions as it doesn’t
dehydrate skin. It’s also used as a bulking and suspension agent for
products like mineral makeup. It’s considered safe for cosmetic use
in specified concentrations.
Hematite extract: Derived from the semiprecious stone, hematite
extract is high in iron and said to protect, restore, and rebuild
collagen. Gemstones may be currently popular in skin care, but
there’s little substantiating scientific data.
Hemp flour (Cannabis sativa): Because the oil content is so high in
hempseed, it has to be removed first and then milled into flour. The
 flour contains all 20 amino acids along with essential fatty acids.
Amino acids are vital to keeping skin youthful, helping generate
new skin cells and protecting collagen. Used as a gentle exfoliant,
hemp flour removes dead skin cells while it protects, nourishes, and
mends.
Hempseed butter (Cannabis sativa): This is not a true butter but a
combination of hempseed oil and a hydrogenated vegetable oil.
The result is a creamy “butter” that has all the attributes of
hempseed oil in a less concentrated form that can be used in
different applications and for different results. Generally it is used
to increase the viscosity, richness, creaminess, and texture of a
body lotion, body cream, or lotion bar.
Hempseed oil (Cannabis sativa): Hempseed oil is a cold-processed and
generally unrefined oil. It is highly concentrated and contains all 20
amino acids along with essential fatty acids. The oil is
noncomedogenic and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive
skin. It helps balance the skin’s oil production, is anti-inflammatory,
and is often used in products for psoriasis, aging, and severely
dehydrated skin.
Hexanoyl dipeptide-3 norleucine acetate: Damaged proteins on the
skin’s surface can obstruct the natural exfoliation process. This
synthetic peptide works by competing with these proteins and
bolstering the skin’s natural shedding ability. Intensely hydrating, it
smooths and refines. Research shows that it reduces wrinkles and
so is valued for its antiaging properties.
Hexyl laurate: A mixture of hexyl alcohol and lauric acid (a naturally
occurring fatty acid), hexyl laurate is used as a skin-conditioning
emollient, solvent, and thickener. It can be found in sunscreens,
foundations, and other makeup and is considered safe for cosmetic
use.
Hexyldecanol: A synthetic, nondrying fatty alcohol, this compound is
used as an emollient, humectant, and skin-conditioning agent. It
 can serve as a base to increase the spreadability of products such
as serums, moisturizers, and lotions. Studies have shown that
topical application may decrease hyperpigmentation by lightening
dark spots and improving skin’s overall texture.
Hexylene glycol: This synthetic preservative, solvent and viscosity
agent is often used to thin heavy formulations to make them more
spreadable. It can be found in products such as body lotions,
shampoos, and moisturizers. Although considered safe for use in
cosmetic products, some studies suggest that it may be an irritant
when applied topically.
Hibiscus flower extract (rosa-sinensis): This extract comes from a
flowering plant in the mallow family native to tropical areas. The
flowers contain high levels of antioxidants, bioflavonoids, and
vitamin C that stimulate collagen production, promote tissue
regeneration, and help fight signs of aging. It can increase skin
circulation, leading to enhanced elasticity and a healthy
complexion. It also contains saponins and can be used to boost
cleansers and facial washes.
Himalayan salt: Mined deep within the Himilayas, this salt is claimed
to be one of the purest salts on Earth. The pink color is due to trace
minerals like iron. The unique mineral composition makes it
beneficial for skin. It is used as a body exfoliant and in bath soaks
for relaxing, rejuvenating, and replenishing minerals.
Homosalate: A derivative of salicylic acid (see beta hydroxy acid),
homosalate is found in many chemical sunscreens that protect
against UVB radiation. Because it doesn’t provide substantial UVA
protection, it’s combined with other ingredients. It can act as a
penetration enhancer. Research shows that homosalate degrades
relatively quickly when exposed to sunlight, breaking down into
harmful by-products. It may also be a hormone disruptor in both
men and women.
Honey (mel): This natural humectant helps keep skin supple and soft. It
 is used in products to help eliminate pore buildup, fight acne, heal
wounds, reduce scars, and for its antiaging properties. Honey is
filled with enzymes, antioxidants, and other elements beneficial to
skin. It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, and can be
used undiluted or mixed with other ingredients. DIYers often use
honey alone as a wonderful face wash.
Honeybush (Cyclopia): The leaves of this South African plant are used
for tea. The anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antiviral, antidepressant,
and antioxidant properties are used for acne and antiaging skin
care products as well as bath salts aimed at relaxation.
Honeysuckle extract (Lonicera japonica): Made from the flowers,
which are dried and then extracted in oil, alcohol, or solvent, this
extract contains anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and antibacterial
properties and is used to treat acne as well as added to salves for
cuts and scrapes. The extract might contain natural parabens, and
some companies are removing it from their formulations due to
bad press about parabens.
Hops essential oil (Humulus lupulus): This essential oil is used topically
for soothing rashes, irritated skin, redness, itchy skin, and for
general skin conditioning.
Hops extract (Humulus lupulus): From a perennial plant native to
China, this extract has antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory,
and sedative properties. It has been found effective in acne and
antiaging products.
Horse chestnut extract (Aesculus hippocastanum): Horse chestnuts
come from a large deciduous tree native to southeastern Europe.
The extract is soothing, anti-inflammatory, and capillary
strengthening. It can be found in moisturizers, salves, and toners,
particularly those for antiaging.
Horsetail extract (Equisetum arvense): The only living genus in its
family, horsetail contains more of the trace mineral silicon than
any other herb, in a highly absorbable form. Rich in antioxidants,
 vitamins, and nutrients, horsetail is believed to promote a firmer,
even-toned complexion that’s more resistant to environmental
stressors. Also beneficial for dry, sensitive skin, it has powerful
moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects and can be found in
products such as cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and shampoos.
Humectant: A substance that promotes the retention of water.
Hyaluronic acid (HA): This acid is naturally produced by the body and
helps keep skin youthful, supple, healthy, smooth, and glowing.
Production lessens with age. It boosts collagen production and
helps skin retain moisture, visually reducing fine lines and wrinkles.
HA also helps reduce redness and quickens skin healing. HA is one
of the most studied and time-tested ingredients in skin care and is
used primarily in face serums.
Hydrogen peroxide: Hydrogen peroxide is a synthetic, liquid chemical
compound that’s slightly more viscous than water. It’s a powerful
oxidizer, bleaching agent, and antiseptic with drying properties.
Over-the-counter hydrogen peroxide comes in only a 3%
concentration due to its potency. Cosmetic use of hydrogen
peroxide is controversial. While it’s inexpensive, readily available,
and generally safe for use on small cuts or scrapes, it’s believed to
damage skin cells through oxidative stress if used on larger areas.
Despite its antimicrobial and drying effects, some studies show
that, when applied topically, hydrogen peroxide can lead to
increased acne inflammation.
Hydrogenated coco-glycerides: This is a mixture of mono-, di-, and
triglycerides derived from hydrogenated coconut oil.
Hydrogenation allows an oily liquid to remain solid at room
temperature, which makes it a useful thickening agent. A skin-
conditioning emollient, hydrogenated coco-glycerides give skin a
soft, smooth appearance and help a product glide onto skin. They
can be found in products such as creams, moisturizers, foundations,
lipsticks, and eyeliners.
Hydrogenated didecene: This is a skin-conditioning agent derived from
the hydrocarbon didecene. Hydrocarbons are organic compounds
that contain only carbon and hydrogen (e.g., mineral oil, petroleum,
and paraffin wax). It can be found in products such as creams,
lotions, hair gels, and foundations. More research needs to be done
on the cosmetic safety; although the EWG gives it a hazard rating of
1/10, it’s suspected to have nonreproductive organ toxicity.
Hydrogenated lecithin: Lecithin is a natural emulsifier and surfactant
derived from plant and animal sources. Because of its oxidation
and instability against heat, cosmetic use of lecithin was limited.
Hydrogenated lecithin delivers the same benefits as lecithin with
added stability. When applied topically, hydrogenated lecithin
soothes, softens, and moisturizes skin. It’s often used in products
intended for dry and/or mature skin. Although the FDA has rated it
GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe), there are concerns about its
penetration-enhancement properties and thus it is considered safe
for cosmetic use only in concentrations up to 15%.
Hydrogenated olive oil (Olea europaea): Hydrogenated olive oil is
made by chemically reacting olive oil with hydrogen under high
pressure to solidify it for increased stability. Full of antioxidants
and essential fatty acids that are easily absorbed, hydrogenated
olive oil is nourishing, moisturizing, and protective to skin. Also
known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory effects, it is suitable
for sensitive skin and can be found in products like moisturizers,
creams, and eye makeup.
Hydrogenated polyisobutene: This synthetic oil is used as a skin-
conditioning agent, often as a substitute for mineral oil. It allows
for pigment dispersion, particularly in makeup such as lipsticks,
eyeshadows, eyeliners, foundations, and concealers. A popular
ingredient in waterproof sunscreens, it preserves SPF even after
water exposure.
Hydrogenated soybean oil (Glycine soja/max): Derived from soybeans
and chemically reacted with hydrogen, this oil has a soft, waxy
 texture that’s stable and pleasant to apply to skin. Used as a skin
conditioner and thickener, it’s commonly found in makeup
products such as lipsticks, eyeliners, eyeshadows, blushes,
foundations, and concealers, as well as lip balms and moisturizers.
Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate: This substance is made by the
hydrogenation of a starch, usually corn, but sometimes potato or
wheat. Commonly found in face masks and moisturizers, it acts as a
skin conditioner and humectant. Studies suggest that it can help
calm sensitive skin and reduce irritation.
Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides citrate: This is a mixture of
vegetable (often palm) glycerides and citric acid chemically
reacted with hydrogen to form a semisolid or solid substance. In
cosmetics, it promotes stability while acting as an emollient and
emulsifier and improving texture. It can be found in products such
as moisturizers and creams.
Hydrolyzed algae extract: This is made from natural algae that’s been
broken down by a chemical reaction with water. It contains
polysaccharides and is used for skin conditioning.
Hydrolyzed keratin protein: This protein can be derived from the hair,
feathers, horns, and hooves of various animals. Keratin is rich in
amino acids and contains sulfur. It is often used in hair care to
strengthen and protect hair but can also be used in facial care
products as a protectant.
Hydrolyzed lupine protein: This comes from the seeds of the lupine,
which contain all the essential amino acids. It is used in high-end
antiaging skin care products to protect against premature aging
and reverse visible signs of aging. It is a vegan amino acid
ingredient that helps protect collagen and build healthy skin cells.
Hydroquinine: Used as a skin lightener for hyperpigmentation and skin
discoloration, hydroquinine was at one point pulled off the market
due to safety concerns. The FDA discovered that many products
containing it were cross-contaminated with toxins such as mercury.
 Its safety has been confirmed, and it is available over the counter
or at prescription strength from a dermatologist. It generally takes
at least four weeks of use to start seeing an effect and many
months before the full results are visible.
Hydrosols: Hydrosols are often confused with floral waters, which can
be labeled as hydrosols or distillates but are just regular distilled
water with a drop of essential oil in it. A true plant hydrosol is the
pure distilled water captured during steam distillation. While they
look like water, hydrosols have the plant compounds and
properties of the essential oils, but in very small amounts, making
them gentler and not caustic.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer:
This is a synthetic polymer that acts as a gelling agent to thicken,
stabilize, and opacify products. When used in moisturizers, serums,
masks, and sunscreens, it creates a desirable melting sensation
when applied that leaves skin feeling smooth and velvety. It is
considered safe for use.
Hydroxyethyl urea: Naturally produced by the skin but made
synthetically for cosmetic use, this powerful humectant helps
maintain and replenish the skin’s moisture levels. It also stimulates
healthy cell turnover, working synergistically with exfoliating
ingredients, like lactic acid, to slough off dead cells and strengthen
the skin’s barrier function. It’s most commonly found in serums and
moisturizers.
Hydroxyethylcellulose: This is a modified, plant-derived amino acid
used as a preservative, lubricant, emulsifier, thickener, and binder.
As a water-soluble substance that can be thickened or thinned, it’s
used in a wide range of products such as conditioners, mascara,
and hair gels. While it doesn’t provide any direct benefits to skin or
hair, it’s a popular cosmetic ingredient due to its versatility.
Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid: This substance is often
used with ingredients like glycolic acid to neutralize pH levels and
 promote a product’s longevity. Studies suggest that when applied
topically it can enhance exfoliation and even tone. It can be found
in scrubs, serums, and moisturizers. Some preliminary research
indicates that in the presence of oxygen it can lead to free radical
damage.
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin: This is a synthetic or plant-derived
emulsion stabilizer found in a variety of skin care products,
including facial serums and moisturizers. Research suggests that it
can enhance the skin-rejuvenating and antiaging properties of
other ingredients such as vitamin C, retinol, and L-ascorbic acid
when used in conjunction with them.
Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate: This synthetic or naturally derived
sugar is used as a surfactant, texturizer, emulsifier, and stabilizer. It
can be found in skin care products such as moisturizers. It works to
reduce greasiness, giving products a smooth, thick feeling. It’s safe
for cosmetic use in concentrations up to 10%.
Hyssop essential oil (Hyssopus officinalis): This essential oil is antiviral
and antibacterial and is used for inflammation, oily skin, eczema,
and psoriasis. It is found in face care products for acne and bath
soaks for muscle pain.
Hyssop extract (Hyssopus officinalis): From an aromatic, semi-
evergreen perennial native to southern Eastern Europe, hyssop was
traditionally made into tea for respiratory issues and as an
antiseptic. The extract can either be in oil or glycerin and is
generally made from both the leaves and the flowers. It contains
antiviral and antibacterial properties and is used in acne cleansers,
toners, and face masks.
Hyssop hydrosol (Hyssopus officinalis): Hyssop hydrosol has all the
benefits of the essential oil in a less caustic form and can be used
undiluted or to replace water in any formulation to increase
efficacy. It is used in baths for wound healing, eczema, and
psoriasis, in body lotions and creams for dehydration, and in toners
 and cleansers for acne.

Illipe butter (Shorea stenoptera): This butter is extracted from the nuts
of a species of tree that grows in the Southeast Asian jungle. It has
a similar profile to cocoa butter and is naturally high in essential
fatty acids. It can be used undiluted or as part of a formulation. Like
cocoa butter, it protects skin and is an excellent moisturizer. It is
found in face creams, foundations, body creams, lotion bars, and lip
balms, and it is also used in soapmaking.
Imidazolidinyl urea: This synthetic, antimicrobial preservative is often
used alongside parabens, which release formaldehyde in products.
Studies suggest that people exposed to formaldehyde-releasing
ingredients may develop a formaldehyde allergy or an allergy to
the ingredient itself. Others argue that the amount of
formaldehyde released is below the limits for unsafe exposure. One
of the most widely used preservatives, imidazolidinyl urea can be
found in various products including foundations, shampoos, hair
gels, and moisturizers.
Indian barberry (Berberis aristata): Also called tree turmeric, barberry
is a deciduous evergreen shrub that grows in Europe, Asia, and
North America. All parts of the plant are used medicinally for
various purposes. The berries are rich in antioxidants and the
extract is generally used in face care products for antiaging.
Indian barberry bark (Berberis aristata): This bark has antiviral and
antibacterial properties and protects against cellular damage. It is
used in face care products targeting acne and signs of aging.
Indian barberry root (Berberis aristata): Topically, this root is used for
its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antiviral properties to
 protect against cellular damage. It is found in skin care products
targeting acne to help condition, repair, and combat signs of
breakouts.
Indian gooseberry (Phyllanthus emblica): These berries from a tree
also known as amia contain a potent array of antioxidants that
have an immediate and long-lasting effect, protecting skin against
free radicals and sun damage. They help generate and restore
collagen and are used in antiaging skin care products and
sunscreens.
Indigo leaf extract (Indigofera tinctoria): This extract has antioxidant,
antiviral, antibacterial, and conditioning properties, making it
beneficial for products targeting aging and acne. It is also used as a
natural dye in soapmaking.
Inositol: A nutrient in the vitamin B complex naturally found in the
body tissues of mammals, inositol regulates cell contents and helps
them receive hormonal signals, which allows for proper
functioning. High levels of inositol in the body can contribute to
healthy hair and hair growth; low levels can cause hair loss, dry
skin, and eczema. As an ingredient it’s synthesized and used in hair
and skin care products such as facial serums and shampoos, and in
moisturizers as a humectant, anti-static, and conditioning agent.
Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate: A synthetic preservative originally used
in paints, primers, and coolants to prevent microorganism growth,
this preservative is now used in shampoos, conditioners, hair gels,
and moisturizers. Evidence suggests it may be toxic to humans and
it is linked to gastrointestinal, liver, reproductive, and development
issues. However, it’s been deemed safe for cosmetic use in
concentrations up to 0.1%; concentrations of 0.5% and above may
cause skin irritation.
Irish moss (Chondrus crispus): Also known as carrageenan, Irish moss is
actually a seaweed that grows in the Atlantic Ocean. It has high
mineral and vitamin levels, and leaves skin silky and smooth. Most
 often found in hair care as a conditioning agent, it is widely used as
a thickening agent and emulsifier as well as to soften and hydrate
skin. It can be used in creams, lotions, and serums.
Iron oxides: These inorganic chemical compounds have been used as
cosmetic pigments since the early 1900s. Though iron oxides can be
naturally derived, they’re usually synthesized for cosmetic use to
ensure purity. They can be found in a wide range of makeup
products and bar soaps and are valued for their non-bleeding and
moisture-resistant qualities. Applied topically, they are nontoxic
and nonirritating.
Isoamyl cocoate: This is a mixture of a natural solvent, isoamyl alcohol,
and coconut acid. It may be derived from coconuts or synthesized.
A skin-softening emollient, it’s valued for its light, nonoily, and fast-
absorbing feel and can be found in products such as moisturizers,
baby lotions, serums, and conditioners, often in place of silicones.
Isoamyl laurate: This ester of isoamyl alcohol and lauric acid is used as
a texture enhancer, conditioner, pigment-dispersing agent, and to
increase spreadability. It can be plant or synthetically derived and
is often used in place of silicones. It is found in products like lotions,
moisturizers, and sunscreens.
Isobutyl acetate: This chemical compound is used as a solvent. Though
it occurs naturally in raspberries, pears, and other plants, it’s
usually synthesized for cosmetic use. Found in products such as
sunscreens and lip balms, it has a naturally fruity scent at low
concentrations.
Isobutylparaben: This is a preservative in the paraben family that
extends the shelf life of products such as shampoos, conditioners,
cleansers, moisturizers, and foundations. Isobutylparaben receives
a rating of 8/10 on the EWG’s hazard scale. The FDA has no specific
laws on the use of preservatives in cosmetics and treats them like
any other ingredient. They claim a lack of reliable evidence/data
regarding the harmful effects of parabens on human health, and so
 have no reason to advise against or limit use.
Isoflavonoids: These are a large subclass of flavonoids.
Isohexadecane: This is a synthetic cleansing and skin-conditioning
agent. Thick and creamy, it’s often used to enhance the texture of
products but has a dry, powder-like finish. It can be found in
moisturizers, sunscreens, serums, makeup removers, and more. The
relatively large molecules prevent it from penetrating very deep
into skin. Because of this, it’s sometimes used to help keep other
ingredients, such as antioxidants, on the skin’s surface.
Isoleucine: This amino acid can be derived from plant proteins such as
almonds, cashews, and soybeans. It’s believed to promote protein
synthesis and is used as a moisturizing and conditioning agent in
skin and hair care products. Research also shows that it may be
useful in barrier repair, thereby protecting and nourishing skin.
Isononyl isononanoate: A synthetic ester that can be found naturally in
cocoa and lavender oils, this substance is used in products such as
lipsticks, moisturizers, and foundations as a skin-conditioning
emollient. Although more research is needed, it has been
determined safe for cosmetic use within some limits.
Isopropyl lanolate: This is a chemically modified form of lanolin.
Popular in makeup formulations, it binds the ingredients of pressed
powders. It also functions as a lubricant, giving skin a smooth,
glossy appearance. There’s some evidence of it being an allergen
and/or irritant, though many believe the risk of reaction is low due
to the minimal amount used in most products.
Isopropyl myristate: A synthetic oil made from isopropyl alcohol and
myristic acid (a fatty acid found naturally in palm oil, coconut oil,
and butterfat), this is used in products such as creams, lotions, and
deodorants to lessen the greasy feel sometimes caused by other
ingredients. It also works to fortify skin’s natural moisture barrier,
thereby keeping skin hydrated. As it is thought to be a penetration
enhancer, it’s important to pay attention to the other ingredients in
 a formulation. Some research suggests it may be comedogenic at
higher concentrations.
Isopropyl palmitate: A synthetic ester of isopropyl alcohol and palmitic
acid, this acts as a conditioner, texturizer, antistatic, and binding
agent in many skin and hair care products. It’s also believed to
enhance skin penetration of other fat-soluble ingredients. Though
isopropyl palmitate is safe for cosmetic use and noncomedogenic
when diluted, there is evidence that it can irritate skin and/or clog
pores if used in higher concentrations.
Isopropyl titanium triisostearate: This synthetic compound is derived
from stearic acid, a naturally occurring fatty acid in plants and
animals. As an emollient and emulsifier, it blends well with other
ingredients for a nongreasy feel. It is also found in sunscreens to
coat titanium dioxide nanoparticles, keeping them suspended and
stable.
Isopropyl titanium triisostearate/triethoxy-caprylylsilane
crosspolymer: This is a surfactant used to control viscosity. It is used
in sunscreens and color cosmetics.
Isostearamide DEA: Isostearamide DEA is a synthetic, waxy solid made
partly from synthesized fatty acids. Used to boost and stabilize
foam, it acts as a cleansing and water-binding agent in foundations,
shampoos, and bath products. It’s also known to add viscosity to
thin, liquid products and act as an antistatic.

Jamaican dogwood (Piscidia erythrina): Traditionally used internally

for pain, tension, headaches, anxiety, and as a sedative, this
deciduous tropical tree is gaining popularity as an ingredient in
bath soaks aimed at relaxation. It also contains antioxidants and
 has been making its way into face serums for antiaging.
Jasminum grandiflorum extract: From a plant also known as Spanish
jasmine, this extract is used in skin care because of its antioxidant
content and its natural ability to moisturize, smooth, and even out
skin tone. It is suitable for sensitive skin. The extract doesn’t have
the same scent as the essential oil.
Jasminum grandiflorum essential oil: Extremely popular for its
multitude of benefits and its aroma, this essential oil is an
antidepressant and antiseptic. It is used to relax muscles, as a
calming nerve tonic, to reduce stress, and to rejuvenate, hydrate,
and brighten skin. Found in everything from face care to bath
soaks, it is one of the most popular scents for perfumes.
Jasminum grandiflorum hydrosol: This hydrosol has all the properties
of the essential oil but in a gentle, less concentrated form. It can
replace water in formulations to impart the scent and attributes of
jasmine.
Jasminum grandiflorum wax: This wax is used as an emulsifier to add
viscosity and a creamy texture. It has regenerative properties as
well as a mild jasmine scent.
Jojoba beads (Simmondsia chinensis): Polyethylene beads have long
been a popular manual exfoliation method because they do not
cause microdermabrasions of the skin. However, there are
environmental risks associated with the beads. Jojoba beads are a
biodegradable form that avoid the environmental risks but still
impart the exfoliation benefits.
Jojoba butter (Simmondsia chinensis): There are many cosmetic
“butters,” none of which are real butter. A true cosmetic butter is
made from a single ingredient, such as mango, cocoa, shea, and
babassu. Most cosmetic butters are an oil such as jojoba mixed
with a hydrogenated vegetable oil or stearic acid (a naturally
occurring fatty acid in plants and animals). They add a luxurious
thickness to creams.
Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis): This oil is extracted by cold-pressing
the seeds of the jojoba, an evergreen desert shrub. The oil is very
similar to skin’s sebum, making it noncomedogenic. Filled with
essential fatty acids, it deeply moisturizes, softens, and conditions
dehydrated skin, leaving a breathable protective layer. It is rapidly
absorbed, nongreasy, and regulates natural oil production. Also
anti-inflammatory, it has positive effects in treating eczema,
psoriasis, and acne. Jojoba is one of the most stable oils with a very
long shelf life, which makes it an excellent carrier oil. It is costlier
than most plant oils and often in short supply.
Jojoba wax: This wax is hydrogenated jojoba oil. It is used in products
for slide, as a thickening agent, and to increase solidification. Since
it is a natural wax, it is often used as a beeswax replacement in
vegan products. Its high antioxidant profile helps extend product
shelf life. It is eco-friendly, biodegradable, and can be used on
sensitive skin. It is extremely nourishing and used in soaps, body
butters, lotions, lip balms, hard bar moisturizers, creams, and
salves.
Juniper essential oil (Juniperus virginiana): Made from juniper leaves,
this essential oil is used to reduce cellulite, balance oil production,
decongest pores, relieve muscle aches and pain, and treat psoriasis
and eczema. Its woody scent is used in essential oil blends for bath
and body products and soapmaking.
Juniper hydrosol (Juniperus virginiana): Juniper hydrosol has all the
benefits of the essential oil in a less caustic form and can be used
undiluted or to replace water in formulations to increase efficacy. It
is used in body creams and lotions for dehydration, eczema,
cellulite, and psoriasis and in facial toners for oily skin and
congested pores.
Kacip fatimah (Labisia pumila): Native to Malaysia, this small flowering
plant has traditionally been used medicinally, especially for
women’s health issues. It contains both phytoestrogen and
phytochemicals. It is primarily used in face creams and serums for
mature skin.
Kakadu plum (Terminalia ferdinandiana): These plums have been used
for thousands of years for medicinal purposes. They’re considered
to be one of the best sources of vitamin C. They also contain
antiviral, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties and
phytochemicals. Beneficial for all skin types, including sensitive,
they’re often used to treat acne and reduce signs of aging.
Quercetin, one of the natural antioxidants in the fruit, is highly
effective at maintaining healthy skin and reducing wrinkles.
Kalahari melon seed oil (Citrullus vulgaris): Also known as wild
watermelon, this native African plant is the ancestor of cultivated
watermelon. The seed oil is rich in essential fatty acids and
contains antioxidants and vitamins A, C, and E. Light and nongreasy,
it is easily absorbed into skin, making it applicable for all skin
types. It helps remove excess dirt, oil, and debris from pores. It also
helps tighten, firm, and protect skin against environmental damage
and retard signs of aging.
Kaolin clay: This gentle clay is suitable for all skin types, including
sensitive. It is naturally absorbent, soaks up excess oils, and pulls
impurities from pores without causing irritation or redness. White is
the most commonly used form, although yellow, red, and pink are
also readily available. Each color has different attributes and
abilities.
Kapoor katcheri essential oil (Hedychium spicatum): Extracted from
the rhizomes of a perennial plant, this essential oil is antifungal
and antibacterial and primarily used in face oils and face creams to
treat acne and in lotions and salves for athlete’s foot.
Kefir: This cultured fermented drink tastes similar to yogurt but is
 made using a starter of milk proteins, yeast, and bacteria. While
usually made from dairy milk, there are vegan forms available. It is
a rich source of essential fatty acids, protein, potassium, probiotics,
calcium, and B vitamins and contains more fat, protein, and
probiotics than yogurt. Research has shown kefir to be effective in
skin lightening and treating acne.
Kelp (alga): Kelp is a large seaweed in the brown algae family. Among
other attributes, kelp is rich in sulfated polysaccharides, shown in
studies to be effective in protecting skin from UV damage,
preventing wrinkles, and gently lightening. It also assists in
expelling toxins.
Kiwi flesh/juice (Actinidia deliciosa): From a fruiting vine native to
China, kiwifruit contain natural enzymes, fruit sugar,
phytonutrients, antioxidants, copper, and potassium. The
macerated flesh or juice from the whole fruit (including seeds) is
used for its ability to loosen and remove dead skin cells, protect
skin from environmental damage, and nurture skin. Generally, it is
used in face creams targeting premature aging, fine lines, and
wrinkles.
Kiwi seed extract (Actinidia deliciosa): Available in both powder and
liquid form, the anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant
properties in this seed extract help maintain skin’s natural oil
production and decrease acne breakouts. It has been shown to
reduce and prevent wrinkles, promote supple skin, and help
maintain skin’s pH. It is also effective at reducing
hyperpigmentation and dark undereye circles, maintaining and
increasing moisture levels, and protecting skin from environmental
damage.
Kiwi seed oil (Actinidia deliciosa): Extracted through a cold process
from kiwi seeds, this oil has all the benefits of the seed extract in a
highly concentrated form. It also has a potent essential fatty acid
content, omega-3s, and a high amount of vitamin E.
Kojic acid: This acid is made from fungi. It is also a by-product of
certain fermented foods such as soy sauce and rice wine. It is used
in skin care as a lightening and brightening agent. It also contains
some antibacterial and antifungal attributes, making it a positive
addition in acne treatment.
Kokum butter (Garcinia indica): A true butter, this is extracted from the
fruit of the Indian kokum tree and has a fatty acid profile similar to
that of cocoa butter. It is used in smaller percentages in skin lotions
and creams and at higher concentrations in body butters for a rich
feel, texture, and hydration. It softens, smoothes, and restores skin’s
elasticity and moisture content. It is also used in soapmaking.
Kombucha: This is a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast grown or
cultivated commercially. Commonly thought of as a probiotic
health drink, kombucha is making its way into skin care. It protects
against environmental and free radical damage, protects collagen,
decreases wrinkles, keeps skin soft and supple, evens skin tone,
reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and helps keep a healthy bacteria
colony that maintains skin’s natural acid mantle and overall health.
Kukui nut butter (Aleurites moluccana): This is not a pure butter but a
combination of kukui nut oil mixed with a hydrogenated vegetable
oil to make it feel like a rich creamy butter. It has all the same
attributes as the oil, but because of its more solid form it’s used
differently in formulations, usually to add texture and creaminess
to body creams and lotions or hair care products.
Kukui nut oil (Aleurites moluccana): Extracted from the seeds of the
Hawaiian state tree, this oil has antiviral and antibacterial
properties that promote wound healing and collagen production. It
is rich in essential fatty acids. Generally used in products targeting
acne and the effects of aging, it is also added to massage oils and
salves for psoriasis, eczema, and stretch marks.
Kundari extract (Melothria heterophylla): This root extract is used for
its antioxidant properties. It protects skin from environmental
 damage and visibly reduces signs of aging. It is added to face
creams targeting the prevention and reversal of aging skin.

L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C): One of the best and most useful forms of
vitamin C in skin care, L-ascorbic acid is used as a skin lightening
and brightening agent, to prevent and repair damage from sun
exposure, for collagen synthesis, and to prevent and minimize fine
lines and wrinkles. It is a powerful, highly effective, and widely used
antioxidant.
Lactic acid: Next to glycolic acid, lactic acid is the most popular and
researched alpha hydroxy acid. Its ability to penetrate the skin is
not quite as profound as that of glycolic acid. Different
concentrations produce different results. At 2% it begins to hydrate,
at 5% it removes dead skin cells, and at up to 10% it provides a
more profound and intense exfoliation. It can be derived from dairy
milk although the most common forms in skin care are synthetic.
Lanolin: This thick substance, secreted by sebaceous glands in sheep to
help keep their coats dry, can be separated into liquid lanolin oil
and solid lanolin wax. Lanolin ingredients have excellent
moisturizing abilities and are used in a wide range of cosmetic
products, including baby and shaving products, as well as skin, hair,
and nail care. Some studies have shown lanolin to be an
allergen/irritant, while others conclude that there is low risk for
reaction because of the negligible amount used in most body care
products.
Laureth-4: This is a synthetic polymer composed of lauryl alcohol and
polyethylene glycol (PEG). A clear, colorless liquid, it’s used as an
antistatic and emulsifying agent in products such as shampoos,
conditioners, body washes, foundations, and lipsticks. Although
 classified as safe for cosmetic use, there is strong evidence that it’s
an irritant and, due to the presence of PEG, there is also concern
about contamination with potentially toxic impurities such as 1,4-
dioxane.
Laureth-7: Laureth-7 is a synthetic surfactant and emulsifier made
from chemically modified natural fatty acid, lauric acid, and
ethylene oxide. Compared to other laureths, it has relatively low
viscosity and can be found in products such as foundations,
moisturizers, serums, eye creams, and styling gels. There is some
evidence that the lower the numerical value of a laureth, the
higher the risk of irritation. There is also concern about
contamination with potentially toxic impurities such as 1,4-dioxane.
Laureth-23: A synthetic derivative of lauryl alcohol, this is a clear,
colorless liquid used as a cleansing and/or solubilizing agent in
products such as shampoos, conditioners, hair gels, and shaving
creams. Although classified as safe for cosmetic use, more research
is needed as there are concerns about contamination, topical
irritation, and/or toxicity.
Lauric acid: This is a medium-chain fatty acid abundant in coconut oil
and also found in palm kernel oil and human, cow, and goat milks.
It acts as a surfactant in products such as bar soaps, body washes,
cleansers, and shampoos. Research suggests it has antimicrobial,
antiviral, antibacterial, and moisturizing properties, making it
beneficial in combating skin issues from acne to psoriasis to
wrinkles. It’s considered nontoxic.
Lauroyl lysine: This naturally occurring amino acid is derived from
coconut fatty acid. Valued for its skin and hair conditioning
properties, it can also be used to enhance the texture of products
such as lipsticks, foundations, blushes, eyeshadows, and concealers.
It’s safe for cosmetic use with limits on concentrations.
Lauryl alcohol: A fatty alcohol that can be synthesized or derived from
natural sources such as coconut oil, lauryl alcohol is primarily used
 as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and thickener in products such as
sunscreens, shampoos, conditioners, and body washes. It has a
thick, waxy texture. It is much gentler than other forms of alcohol
and can be beneficial to dry complexions as it’s nondrying and
helps skin retain moisture. That said, some research suggests it may
be irritating to especially sensitive skin.
Lauryl glucoside: Used as a dispersant, surfactant, and/or foaming
agent, this substance is made from coconut or palm oil and sugar
often from corn. In products such as shampoos, body washes,
cleansers, and hand soaps, it helps water mix with oils and dirt for
easy rinsing. Known for its mild nature, it can be found in many
baby products.
Lauryl lactate: A combination of lauryl alcohol and lactic acid, this is
found in products such as sunscreens, moisturizers, shampoos, and
cleansers for its skin-conditioning and exfoliating effects.
Considered safe for cosmetic use, it’s also occasionally used as a
fragrance ingredient.
Lauryl laurate: A synthetic ester from naturally derived lauryl alcohol
and lauric acid and used for its emollient properties and to better
integrate other ingredients with the skin’s surface, it can be found
in products such as sunscreens, conditioners, foundations, and
moisturizers. It’s considered safe for cosmetic use.
Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone: This is a synthetic
polymer used as a humectant, conditioner, emulsifier, stabilizer,
and thickener in products like sunscreens, moisturizers, concealers,
and foundations. More research is needed as there are concerns
about possible toxic contamination.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia or Lavandula officinalis): A flowering
plant in the mint family, lavender is widely cultivated for its
beautiful flowers and fragrance. The petals are used in products
such as facial steams, scent sachets, and bath salts. Lavender has
been shown to calm irritated skin.
Lavender essential oil (Lavandula angustifolia or Lavandula
officinalis): There are many types of lavender, each carrying its own
scent, so many unique essential oils are available. Essential oil,
which confers profound aromatherapeutic benefits, is rich in
antioxidants and anti-inflammatories. It also promotes new cell
growth, making it a powerful antiaging ingredient. It’s one of the
most common essential oils used in every type of skin care product.
Lavender hydrosol (Lavandula angustifolia or Lavandula officinalis):
Lavender hydrosol has all the properties of the essential oil in a
less concentrated form that can be used undiluted. Lavender
hydrosol is used in facial toners and mists for acne and oily skin
and to replace water in face creams and body lotions to increase
efficacy and impart a lovely light scent.
Lavender wax (Lavandula angustifolia or Lavandula officinalis): This
wax is used as an emulsifier and emollient for viscosity and rich
texture. It is very calming to both skin and mood, making it a
perfect wax for sensitive and dehydrated skin.
Lemon balm essential oil (Melissa officinalis): This essential oil has
some of the same antioxidant profiles as the extract, although it is
generally used for its aroma to scent lotions, body creams, and
soaps, as well as in bath products targeting relaxation and pain
relief, body mists for relaxation and insomnia, salves for pain,
deodorants, and acne treatments.
Lemon balm extract (Melissa officinalis): Lemon balm is a perennial
plant in the mint family. Studies have shown it to be effective in the
treatment of cold sores, menstrual cramps, headaches, and pain. It
contains antioxidants and has antibacterial, antiviral, and anti-
inflammatory properties. It protects against and reverses wrinkles,
fine lines, and signs of aging; helps decrease and combat acne
breakouts; and is used in deodorants, foot salves, and calming bath
soaks.
Lemon essential oil (Citrus limon): Also used aromatherapeutically,
 lemon essential oil is used topically for its powerful antiviral,
antibacterial, astringent, and detoxifying properties that aid in
treating acne and deep-cleaning pores. It helps control the
overproduction of oil and brightens dull, lackluster, ruddy skin.
Lemon extract (Citrus limon): From a mixture of juice and peel or just
the peel, lemon extract is much more concentrated and therefore
powerful than the peel. It is important to know what the carrier oil
of an extract is, as many common carriers are known or suspected
to contain toxins. Pure grape alcohol or a plant oil (preferably
jojoba due to its stability and long shelf life) are best.
Lemon juice (Citrus limon): Lemon is high in vitamin C, a commonly
used antioxidant for skin care. Studies show vitamin C can be
effectively absorbed topically. It encourages cell renewal,
promotes collagen health, and guards against environmental
pollutants and free radicals. Lemon juice is a natural alternative to
synthetic vitamin C.
Lemon peel (Citrus limon): Lemon peel has much more concentrated
levels of bioflavonoids and antioxidants than the juice, which
makes it a powerful alternative. It also contains the essential oil
limonene. The combination of juice and peel is often used to get a
complete profile. It is used in face care products to prevent damage
from environmental stressors, protect collagen, and prevent aging.
Lemon verbena essential oil (Aloysia citrodora): Extracted from the
leaves and flowers of a plant native to South America, this essential
oil is used topically to treat acne and cystic acne as well as to
alleviate puffiness and soften skin. It has antibacterial and antiviral
properties.
Lemon verbena extract (Aloysia citrodora): Generally extracted in
alcohol, this can also be extracted in chemical solvents or oil.
Depending on the extraction, it may or may not have a gentle
aroma. It is less expensive than the essential oil and contains
similar properties in a less potent form.
Lemon verbena hydrosol (Aloysia citrodora): This hydrosol has the
same benefits and properties as the essential oil but in a less
caustic form and can be used undiluted or to replace water in
formulations to increase efficacy. It is highly beneficial in treating
cystic acne and is also used to alleviate puffiness under eyes.
Lemon verbena powder (Aloysia citrodora): The powder is more potent
than the extract and contains the entire beneficial profile of the
essential oil without the strong aroma and in a less caustic form. It
is becoming very popular for face masks to treat acne, which can
be exacerbated by some chemicals often used to preserve skin care
products. This powder is a natural alternative to a preservation
system.
Lemongrass essential oil (Cymbopogon citratus): This versatile oil is
used aromatherapeutically and has antibacterial and antifungal
properties that can treat acne and nail fungus. It is found in body
sprays, lotions, or soaps to cool the body, and in hand sanitizers
and deodorants.
Lemongrass extract (Cymbopogon citratus): This herb grows in the
tropics, predominantly in Asia. It has antioxidant, antifungal, anti-
inflammatory, and antibacterial properties. Topically, the extract is
used to treat acne, wrinkles, and nail and foot fungus. It is also
found in deodorants and hand sanitizers. As with all extracts, it is
important to know the carrier, as some carriers are known or
suspected to be toxic.
Lemongrass hydrosol (Cymbopogon citratus): This is a gentle
alternative to the essential oil. It contains the same attributes in a
less potent form that can be used undiluted or to replace water in
any formulation to add its attributes to facial and body mists to
cool an overheated body, natural astringent toners, or for oil and
blemish control.
Licorice root extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra): Licorice root is a perennial
legume native to the Mediterranean and parts of Asia. It’s been
 widely used for centuries as a medicinal herb and is renowned for
its soothing, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits. It visibly
reduces dark spots, redness, irritation, and inflammation, and
protects against environmental stressors, while balancing oil. It
gently brightens and moisturizes, helping fade sun damage and
treating rosacea and psoriasis.
Lime essential oil (Citrus aurantifolia): Lime essential oil is used to
treat acne, cellulite, and congested pores, and to heal wounds. It is
also added to perfumes and essential oil blends.
Lime extract/flavor (Citrus aurantifolia): Lime extract is generally
extracted in alcohol but can be in an oil. Used in skin care products
to impart scent, the flavored oils are also used in lip balm.
Lime hydrosol (Citrus aurantifolia): This hydrosol has all the benefits of
the peel and the essential oil and can be used undiluted or to
replace water in formulations to impart the attributes and aroma. It
is used in acne toners and cleansers.
Lime juice (Citrus aurantifolia): Lime juice contains antioxidants;
vitamins A, B, C, and D; calcium; and magnesium. It also contains
natural fruit sugar and is anti-inflammatory. Used to protect skin
against environmental damage, remove dead skin cells, and keep
skin vibrant and healthy, the fresh juice can be added to face
creams and lotions, and powder can be added to masks and facial
exfoliants.
Lime peel (Citrus aurantifolia): Lime peel has more vitamin C than the
juice as well as a higher concentration of flavonoids, vitamin B6,
magnesium, and potassium. It is anti-inflammatory and used on
mature skin to prevent and visibly reduce wrinkles and fine lines. It
also helps brighten dull skin and maintain healthy collagen.
Powdered peel is added to face masks, face exfoliants, and soaps.
Litsea cubeba essential oil: Made from the fruit of an evergreen tree
native to China, this essential oil has antibacterial and antiseptic
properties that make it useful for oily skin and acne.
Litsea cubeba hydrosol: This hydrosol has all the benefits of the
essential oil in a less caustic form that can be used undiluted. It is
used for acne toners, acne cleansers, and body lotions targeting
acne.
Luffa (Luffa aegyptiaca): Also called sponge gourds, luffa are native to
Asia. Their fibers are used as a mild exfoliant for the body, although
they may be too harsh for sensitive facial skin. Often used in spas
for body exfoliation, they encourage cellular turnover and healthy
skin.
Lutein: This is a naturally occurring betacarotene found in green leafy
vegetables such as spinach and kale. A powerful antioxidant, it
protects skin against environmental stress and damage and is often
combined with other antioxidants in skin care products that target
premature aging, dehydration, wrinkles, and fine lines.
Lychee extract (Litchi chinensis): This extract comes from the lychee
fruit and is either in powdered or liquid form. The liquid can be in a
base of glycerin, solvents, oils, or alcohol. High in vitamin C and
antioxidants, it rejuvenates skin, restores luster, protects against
aging, visibly reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and helps skin
elasticity.
Lycopene: This bright red carotene gives fruits and vegetables their
color. Although its SPF of 3 is not enough to be used as a sunscreen,
it does provide some protection against UV radiation. It is used in
skin care for premature aging, dehydrated skin, and to prevent and
reduce signs of aging. The extract can be found extracted in
another plant oil, making it suitable for use in face oils, face
creams, and body lotions.
Macadamia nut meal (Macadamia integrifolia): The meat of the
macadamia nut is milled into a fine powder that has all the
benefits of the oil in a less concentrated form. It can be used as a
highly effective yet gentle exfoliant suitable for all types of skin,
including sensitive. It is used in powdered masks, powdered
exfoliants, and in spa treatments.
Macadamia oil (Macadamia integrifolia): Macadamia oil is extracted
through cold-pressing or refinement of the nuts of a tree native to
Australia and Hawaii. There is a growing demand for this scarce
and expensive oil, which is extremely high in a broad spectrum of
essential fatty acids, antioxidants, amino acids, vitamins, and
minerals that help regenerate skin, ward off wrinkles, and combat
dehydration.
Machilus thunbergii bark: This tree bark has been used in traditional
Chinese medicine but is now showing up in bath salts, body sprays,
and aromatherapy products aimed at uplifting and calming mood.
It also has some anti-inflammatory properties and can be effective
in the treatment and prevention of aging skin.
Madder root (Rubia tinctorum): The root of this perennial evergreen is
often used as a dye to impart beautiful orange and red hues to
textiles. Topically it is used to treat and heal rashes, acne, and
wounds.
Magnesium alum silicate: This naturally occurring mineral comes from
refined, purified clay. Often used as a thickener, it can be found in
shaving creams and lotions, as well as in deodorants for its
absorbent properties. Due to its relatively large molecular size, it
can’t penetrate the skin barrier. It’s generally considered safe for
use in cosmetics and skin care products.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate: A potent antioxidant derived from
vitamin C, this substance is effective at much lower concentrations
than vitamin C. It possesses some of the same benefits, such as
collagen enrichment. Much less acidic than vitamin C, it can act as
 a gentler alternative for those with sensitive skin. Known for its
anti-inflammatory and brightening/lightening effects, it offers
protection against and repair from UV damage, like diminishing the
appearance of age spots. It’s a popular ingredient in moisturizers
and serums.
Magnesium aspartate: An amino acid that supports skin proteins,
magnesium aspartate can be animal-derived or created
synthetically. Some research shows that when applied topically, it
may assist in the delivery of minerals to skin cells, as it does when
taken internally. It can be found in skin care products such as
moisturizers, serums, and cleansers.
Magnesium carbonate: This mineral salt is often used for its absorbent
and pH-balancing qualities in products like foundations,
concealers, eyeshadows, and shampoos. Considered safe for use in
cosmetics and skin care, it’s also used as an opacifying, bulking, and
binding agent.
Magnesium laureth sulfate: This is the salt of sodium laureth sulfate,
commonly found in shampoos as a cleansing agent. Less irritating
than other surfactants and effective in hard water, it can be used by
those with sensitive skin. Though it’s classified as a safe ingredient,
possible contamination by known toxins ethylene oxide and 1,4-
dioxane is a concern.
Magnesium oleth sulfate: This substance is commonly found in
shampoos as a cleansing agent. Though it’s classified as a safe
ingredient, possible contamination by known toxins ethylene oxide
and 1,4-dioxane is a concern.
Magnesium sulfate: Also known as Epsom salt, this inorganic salt is
found in seawater and mineral deposits. When used topically, it can
provide anti-inflammatory benefits, easing muscle soreness and
possibly combating acne, which makes it a popular ingredient in
bath soaks. Also used as a bulking and conditioning agent,
magnesium sulfate can be used in foundations, shampoos, and
 sunscreens and is deemed safe for cosmetic use.
Magnolia bark (Magnolia officinalis): Promoted as one of the new
antiaging wonders in skin care, magnolia bark contains very
powerful anti-inflammatories that studies show inhibit the
activation of NF-KB, a component in the aging processes.
Malachite extract: This extract from the semiprecious stone is used to
protect skin. While gemstones may be currently popular in skin
care, there’s little substantiating scientific data on their
effectiveness.
Malic acid (see also alpha hydroxy acid): Malic acid molecules are
larger than both glycolic and lactic acid, resulting in less
transdermal penetration and less effective exfoliation. However, it
still actively exfoliates and for some people is the best choice as it
generally causes less sensitivity. Studies have shown malic acid to
increase collagen production and reverse sun damage and signs of
aging. It also may even out pigmentation, fight acne, and reduce
wrinkles. It is often made from apples, but for skin care a synthetic
form is more commonly used.
Malkangni oil (Celastrus paniculatus): Cold-pressed from the seeds of
an Indian shrub, this oil is anti-inflammatory, antibacterial,
antiviral, and sedative. In skin care it is found in products targeting
acne, salves for joint pain and inflammation, and bath soaks for
relaxation and stress reduction.
Maltodextrin: Derived from hydrolyzed rice, corn, or potato starch, this
sugar is most commonly used as a low-calorie food sweetener. In
cosmetics and skin care products such as lipsticks, deodorants,
shampoos, moisturizers, and sunscreens, it provides binding and
stabilizing properties. Some studies suggest that maltodextrin may
enhance the antiaging effects of some weak acids when in the
same formulation. Furthermore, it may reduce irritation caused by
some acids.
Maltooligosyl glucoside: This is a naturally derived carbohydrate
 polysaccharide combined with a starch that has multiple uses in
skin care and cosmetics. It acts as a binding agent, emulsifier,
hydrator, texture enhancer, and film-forming agent in products
such as masks, cleansers, and shampoos. It can replace glycerin
and is believed to have a soothing effect while giving products a
smooth, creamy feel.
Mandarin orange essential oil (Citrus reticulata): Extracted from the
peel, this essential oil has antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and
astringent properties and is often used for acne.
Mandarin orange hydrosol (Citrus reticulata): This hydrosol has all the
benefits of the essential oil in a less caustic form. It can be used
undiluted or to replace water in any formulation to impart its
beautiful scent and attributes. It is also used in bath soaks for
rashes and inflammation.
Mandarin orange juice (Citrus reticulata): This juice is filled with
vitamins A and C, calcium, and natural fruit sugars. It removes dead
skin cells, helps unclog pores, and protects collagen. The juice can
be used fresh or powdered in face masks, cleansers, and creams
targeting the effects of aging, and also in body soap.
Mandarin orange peel extract (Citrus reticulata): The high levels of
bioflavonoids and antioxidants in Mandarin orange peel are highly
effective at preventing wrinkles, sagging, and collagen
deterioration. It comes either in an extract or powdered form and is
used in skin care aimed at preventing and reversing signs of aging.
Mandelic acid: The least common of all the alpha hydroxy acids,
mandelic acid has the largest molecules. This means it has the
slowest penetration rate and is the best for sensitive skin. Of all the
AHAs, it has the most positive effects on skin discoloration.
Mango butter (Mangifera indica): Mango butter is extracted from the
fruit kernels of a flowering tree native to India. It is a true butter
with nothing added to it. Rich in essential fatty acids, it is used for
body butters, lotions, and creams to add richness, viscosity, and
 weight. It is extremely moisturizing and beneficial for dehydrated,
cracked, brittle, or flaky skin.
Mango fruit (Mangifera indica): Mango has antiviral, antibacterial, and
anti-inflammatory properties along with natural fruit sugars and
antioxidants. It gently loosens dead skin cells, helps protect skin,
and reduces outbreaks. It can be used either fresh or powdered and
is generally found in face masks, cleansers, and exfoliators
targeting pore congestion, acne, and aging. Rarely, people can be
sensitive to both the peel and fruit.
Mango seed oil (Mangifera indica): Mango seed oil is rich in essential
fatty acids, selenium, copper, zinc, and antioxidants. While mango
butter is solid at room temperature, the oil is not and can be added
to formulations without adding weight and texture, making it
perfect for thinner body lotions, body oils, massage oils, and face
oils.
Mangosteen fruit juice (Garcinia mangostana): This juice has a high
concentration of antioxidants as well as natural fruit sugars. It is an
astringent and is added to face creams and face serums to prevent
signs of aging, and to cleansers to gently remove dead skin cells
and keep skin soft, supple, and healthy.
Mangosteen seed oil (Garcinia mangostana): This oil, pressed from the
seeds of a tropical evergreen, is one of the new gold standards in
the cosmetic industry. The oil is used in antiaging skin care because
of its ability to stabilize cells and retard signs of aging, helping
maintain a healthy and youthful appearance. It also helps keep
skin hydrated, toned, and tight.
Maple leaf extract: Most people are aware of maple syrup but less so
of the leaf extract. Current research suggests it is a potent and
powerful ally in preventing and reversing wrinkles and signs of
aging. Maple “Botox” is being touted as the hottest new ingredient
in antiaging, and companies are rushing to market with products.
Maple syrup: Made from the sap of the maple tree, the syrup is
 extremely high in natural sugars and antioxidants. It also contains
magnesium, zinc, iron, and potassium. It gently dissolves and
removes dead skin cells, decongests pores, smooths and resurfaces
skin, protects against environmental damage, and helps maintain
healthy collagen. It is used undiluted in face masks, cleansers, and
exfoliants as well as added to creams, cleansers, and liquid masks.
Maple water: Maple water is 98% water. It contains a high
concentration of calcium, potassium, and magnesium as well as
antioxidants. It helps maintain proper skin function and is used in
face creams for overall skin health.
Marionberry (Rubus L.): Due to its antioxidant and hydroxy acid
content, marionberries are used in early prevention skin care
products to resurface skin, remove dead skin cells, decongest
pores, protect against environmental damage, and maintain
healthy collagen.
Marionberry seed oil (Rubus L.): Made by a cold-press extraction, this
seed oil is increasingly popular. It is rich in antioxidants and
effective at protecting against environmental damage. It also
maintains healthy collagen and prevents wrinkles and fine lines.
Maritime pine bark extract (Pinus pinaster): From a pine tree native to
the Mediterranean, this bark extract contains powerful antioxidant,
anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, and pain-relieving
properties. It protects against environmental damage, repairs and
protects collagen, increases production of hyaluronic acid,
increases skin’s hydration level and elasticity, and visibly reduces
signs of aging. It is used in antiaging face creams and serums as
well as in deodorants, hand sanitizers, and acne treatments.
Maritime pine essential oil (Pinus pinaster): Distilled from pine
needles, this essential oil is antibacterial and antiseptic. It is used in
perfumes and essential oil blends as well as in hand sanitizers,
deodorants, pain-relieving salves, and acne products.
Marjoram essential oil (Origanum majorana): Derived from marjoram
 flowers and leaves, the essential oil is antioxidant, anti-
inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal and helpful in the
treatment of acne and infections.
Marshmallow root (Althaea officinalis): Marshmallow is a perennial
plant native to parts of Europe, Asia, and Africa and is traditionally
used to treat colds, coughs and flu. It has anti-inflammatory and
antibacterial properties, and contains mucilage, which soothes
irritated skin. It is used to treat eczema and acne, and applied
topically it helps alleviate pain.
Marula oil (Sclerocarya birrea): Made from the pressed kernels of a
tree native to South Africa, the profound moisturizing ability of
marula oil makes it effective at relieving dehydrated skin, and
calming, toning, smoothing, and reducing redness and signs of
aging. It has a similar fatty acid profile to olive oil and is used in
similar applications.
Meadowfoam seed oil (Limnanthes alba): This extremely stable oil has
a long shelf life and contains powerful antioxidants and essential
fatty acids. It has a very rich feel and leaves skin soft and supple
without being comedogenic. It is often used in skin care products as
it contains very similar attributes to jojoba oil but is less expensive.
Menthol: Either naturally or synthetically derived, this compound
found in mint delivers a tingling, cooling effect and is used to
relieve joint pain. In small amounts it is added to massage oils for
muscle aches and pains. It also promotes better transdermal
penetration of other ingredients.
Menthoxypropanediol: This synthetic derivative of menthol is used as a
cooling, flavoring, fragrance, and fragrance-masking ingredient. A
common ingredient in lip-plumping products, it triggers irritation,
causing lips to swell. It can also be found in shampoos,
conditioners, toners, shaving creams, and aftershaves. Although it
receives a 1/10 on EWG’s hazard scale, its effects can be up to
twice as strong as those of menthol and therefore that much more
 irritating.
Menthyl anthranilate: This is a synthetic UVA absorber and thus the
active ingredient in some sunscreens and SPF lip balms. It’s shown
to be only moderately effective in protecting against UV radiation
and may produce damaging reactive oxygen species when exposed
to sunlight. It’s not permitted for use in Europe or Japan but is 1 of
17 FDA-approved sunscreen ingredients in the United States.
Menthyl lactate: Used as a cooling fragrance and flavoring ingredient
in cosmetics, menthyl lactate is said to be milder and less irritating
than menthol, but more research is needed. It can be found in many
applications such as sunscreens, masks, toners, shampoos, and
aftershaves.
Methicone: A silicone-based ingredient found in a variety of products
such as foundations, concealers, sunscreens, and moisturizers,
methicone creates a protective barrier on skin that slows down
water loss to keep skin hydrated. It can also be added to products
to make other ingredients either repel or attract water. Due to its
large molecular size, methicone doesn’t easily penetrate skin,
which furthers its protective powers. That said, it can interfere with
skin’s natural ability to expel waste and toxins and may cause
breakouts for those with sensitive and/or acne-prone complexions.
Methyl gluceth-20: Considered a versatile and gentle ingredient that
also functions as a foaming and skin-softening agent, this synthetic
emollient and humectant is often used in products such as
moisturizers, serums, and cleansers for its ability to retain moisture
while opening pores.
Methyl gluceth-20 benzoate: A synthetic ester of methyl gluceth-20
and benzoic acid, this compound acts as a solvent, emollient, and
skin conditioner that enhances spreadability of products. It’s most
commonly found in chemical sunscreens and self-tanning lotions.
Although more research is needed, it’s considered to have low
toxicity and to be safe for cosmetic use.
Methyl glucose sesquistearate: This is a synthetic skin-conditioning
agent, emulsifier, and surfactant made from methyl glucose and
stearic acid (a naturally occurring fatty acid in plants and animals).
Research shows that it’s minimally absorbed by skin, and it has
been deemed safe for cosmetic use in its current practices of use
and concentration. It can be found in products such as eye creams,
moisturizers, and concealers.
Methylchloroisothiazolinone: This widely used synthetic preservative
is known for its antibacterial and antifungal properties, although it
belongs to a group of chemicals known as isothiazolinones, which
are the most potent allergens on the consumer market. There’s
strong evidence that methylchloroisothiazolinone is an irritant and
potential neurotoxin. Because of this, it’s primarily found in rinse-
off products such as shampoos, conditioners, body washes, hand
soaps, and cleansers, though it may be used in leave-on products in
concentrations of up to 8%.
Methyldibromo glutaronitrile: This synthetic preservative can be found
in products like sunscreens, hand creams, body lotions, facial
toners, and cleansers. Research indicates that it’s sensitizing when
used in leave-on formulations. In Europe, it’s banned from use in
leave-on products due to a significant rise in allergic reactions. In
the United States, it’s classified as safe for cosmetic use in low
concentrations.
Methylglucoside phosphate: This is a simple sugar derived from
glucose that can be found in products such as eye creams,
moisturizers, and serums for its skin-softening and antiaging
properties. There’s evidence that when combined with certain
essential amino acids, it can boost skin’s collagen and elastin
production for improved firmness and elasticity. There are no
present concerns regarding its cosmetic safety, though more
research is needed.
Methylisothiazolinone: This widely used synthetic preservative and
biocide kills and inhibits the growth of microbes. It belongs to a
 group of chemicals known as isothiazolinones, which are the most
potent allergens on the consumer market. There’s strong evidence
that it’s an irritant/allergen and also a suspected neurotoxin. It’s
approved only for use in low concentrations in rinse-off products
such as shampoos, conditioners, body washes, hand soaps, and
cleansers.
Methylparaben: This preservative contains parabens. It is used to limit
bacterial growth and extend the shelf life of products. The EWG
rates it 4/10 on its hazard scale. The FDA has no specific laws on
use of preservatives in cosmetics and treats them like any other
ingredient. They claim a lack of reliable evidence/data regarding
the harmful effects of parabens on human health, and so have no
reason to advise against or limit use.
Methylpropanediol: An organic, synthetic solvent used in a variety of
products, including face masks, moisturizers, eyeliners, toners, and
serums, this substance enhances skin absorption of other, active
ingredients. No research has shown methylpropanediol to be a
toxin or irritant, but it should be used mindfully due to its
penetration-boosting effects.
Methylsilanol mannuronate: This organic, seaweed-derived ingredient
is used for its skin-conditioning and antistatic properties. When
applied topically, it adheres to moisture in the skin to strengthen
and firm. It may also help combat the breakdown of collagen and
elastin by protecting against free radical damage. Originally used
in spa wraps and treatments, it can now be found in products such
as moisturizers and serums. There are no known adverse side
effects.
Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM): A popular supplement used to boost
immune systems, MSM is an organic sulfur compound found
naturally in plants and animals and used mostly for joint pain and
inflammation. The cosmetic industry claims topical use provides
the same benefit profile as a supplement although little research
has been done to substantiate the benefits of topical application.
Mexican marigold extract (Tagetes erecta): This anti-inflammatory,
antiviral, and antibacterial extract is used topically to treat
blemishes and blackheads. It is also added to creams and salves for
joint pain and inflammation.
Milk (dairy from cows): Although there is controversy over whether
digesting cow milk increases breakouts, milk is used topically to
prevent them. Milk contains lactic acid, essential fatty acids,
vitamins, enzymes, and proteins. The lactic acid removes dead skin
cells, the essential fatty acids replace moisture loss, and the
vitamins and proteins help maintain healthy collagen. Avoiding
milk from cows that are fed hormones or antibiotics is important
for skin care.
Mineral salts: Harvested for over 30 years from an ancient seabed in
central Utah, this pure and natural sea salt creates an
uninhabitable environment for bacteria. Containing more than 60
trace minerals, the finely milled salt makes a superior bath salt for
relaxation and reviving skin. It is also beneficial in deodorants and
salt scrub applications.
Moringa leaf extract (Moringa oleifera): The extract from the moringa
leaf is equally as powerful as the oil. Used for centuries as an
antifungal, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, antidepressant, and stress
reducer, moringa is a power pack of intense nutrients including
proteins, vitamins A and C, niacin, calcium, potassium, iron, and
zinc. It is used topically for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant
benefits and its ability to regenerate skin cells.
Moringa oil (Moringa oleifera): Coldpressed from moringa seeds, this
oil has a long shelf life and is filled with antioxidants, vitamins, and
nutrients. It is noncomedogenic, nongreasy, and easily absorbed by
skin, evening out skin tone and tightening skin for a youthful, dewy
glow. Its anti-inflammatory and collagen-building properties can
help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while
reducing DNA damage in skin cells.
Moroccan chamomile extract (Ormenis multicaulis): Moroccan
chamomile extract has anti-inflammatory, antifungal, and antiviral
properties. It is generally used in skin care to treat acne.
Moroccan chamomile floral wax (Ormenis multicaulis): Extracted from
chamomile flowers, this wax is used in skin care as an emollient
and to create viscosity, smooth texture, add thickness, and emulsify.
Moroccan red clay (red clay): This clay is naturally high in silica and
mineral oxides. Its high iron oxide content gives it a beautiful red
color. It is most commonly used to treat rosacea, eczema, and
psoriasis as it helps rebalance, calm, and improve skin tone,
texture, and elasticity. Its beautiful color makes for use in
soapmaking, but it should be cut with other clays when used in face
masks or body wraps as it can stain.
Motherwort (Leonurus cardiaca): Originally from Europe and Asia,
motherwort is a powerful calming herb. Topically, it is used to help
heal infections and calm skin. Due to its sleep-inducing, anxiety-
relieving attributes it is gaining popularity in aromatherapy and
bath soaks.
Mowrah butter (Bassia latifolia): Extracted from the fruit of an Indian
tree, this butter is pure and without additives. Solid at room
temperature, it melts with skin heat and is rapidly absorbed. It is
filled with essential fatty acids, phytochemicals, and potent
antioxidants. Studies suggest that it may be more effective than
olive oil at preventing signs of aging. It is generally used in body
care such as body creams, butters, lip balms, and hard bar lotions,
but it is also found in small percentages in products targeting aging
and dehydration.
Mucilage: Mucilage is a viscous substance secreted or extracted from
plants. It is used for its ability to visibly reduce fine lines, soothe,
soften, hydrate, and help maintain overall skin health. It also helps
increase skin’s protective barrier and has a plumping effect. It is
used to treat rosacea, eczema, and psoriasis and added to
 antiaging skin care products.
Mung bean (Vigna radiata): Mung beans are an edible legume used in
skin care as gentle and mild exfoliants. They help maintain and
even out skin tone and texture for a healthy glow.
Mungongo oil (Schinziophyton rautanenii): The oil is extracted from
the nuts of a tree native to Africa. It contains amino acids, minerals,
vitamin E, and essential fatty acids, making it a superstar ingredient
for skin care. It is often added to face care products targeting the
effects of aging but is also found in lip balms, body lotions, oils, and
butters. It is suitable for all types of skin, including sensitive.
Mushrooms: A type of fungus that grows in moist areas worldwide,
mushrooms are rich in vitamin D, selenium, and antioxidants. They
are used in skin care to reduce inflammation and irritation and
soothe even the most sensitive skin, as well as for skin brightening
and lightening, and to repair, reduce, and protect against aging and
wrinkles. The extract is used in many products including soaps, face
creams, serums, and shampoos.
Muskmelon seed oil (Cucumis melo var. cantalupensis): Also known as
cantaloupe seed oil, this oil is extracted by cold-pressing
cantaloupe seeds. It is similar in nutrient and benefit profile to
watermelon seed oil. It is very light and easily absorbed, making it
useful for all skin types. Able to be used undiluted or in
combination with other oils, it is generally used in face creams,
face oils, and face serums targeting acne and aging.
Mustard oil (genera Brassica and Sinapis): This oil is extracted from
mustard seeds. Although there is controversy about using it
internally, and it is actually banned for internal use in some
countries, it is considered safe for topical use. It is rich in essential
fatty acids, vitamin C, and antioxidants and has antibacterial,
antifungal, and antiviral properties. Beneficial for extremely dry,
cracked, and brittle hands, feet, and nails, it also reduces fine lines
and wrinkles, removes dark spots, alleviates cold symptoms,
 promotes hair growth, and helps protect against UV damage. Not
considered suitable for undiluted use, it is often added to massage
oils, hair oils, face masks, face oils, bath soaks, and salves.
Mustard seeds (genera Brassica and Sinapis): Soft and round yellow
mustard seeds are used whole as a gentle exfoliant. They’re also
added to salt scrubs for additional exfoliation as well as primarily
used in hard bar soaps for gentle spherical exfoliation that also
gives the soap an added boost of cleansing power.
Myristic acid: This saturated fatty acid is used as a surfactant and
emulsifier, and in perfumes. It can be derived from both animal and
vegetable sources and is found in many products such as face
masks, cleansers, soaps, and lotions.
Myrrh essential oil (Commiphora myrrha): Extracted from myrrh resin,
this very expensive essential oil is used for both perfume and
essential oil blends, generally in small quantities due to its price.
Traditionally it is used medicinally for its anti-inflammatory,
antibacterial, antiviral, and sedative properties. It is found in skin
care targeting acne or signs of aging.
Myrrh hydrosol (Commiphora myrrha): This hydrosol has all the
benefits of myrrh essential oil and the extract in a less caustic form.
It can be used undiluted and to replace water in formulations to
impart both the scent and efficacy without the cost. It is very
soothing for skin and often used as a toner.
Myrrh resin extract (Commiphora myrrha): Extracted either in an oil or
solvent, this is a less expensive and less concentrated alternative to
myrrh essential oil.

N-acetyl L-tyrosine: This substance is primarily used as an antioxidant

 and conditioner to protect and replenish skin. It can be found in
cosmetic products such as serums, moisturizers, and conditioners.
It’s also used as a tanning agent, though there is little data on this
ingredient.
Nanoparticles: These are microscopic particles with at least one
dimension of less than 100nm. The cosmetic industry has been
embracing nanotechnology for its ability to deliver a more
profound application. For example, in natural sunscreens zinc oxide
is often used. With normal zinc oxide particulates, the sunscreen
will be opaque and greasy, but when nanoparticles are used it is
less oily, has a better texture, and penetrates the skin more deeply.
However, nanoparticle use is controversial because the extremely
small size means they get absorbed into body and skin tissue and
can cause cell destruction and potentially even environmental
pollution. Little is known about the safety of using nanoparticles.
Narcissus absolute: Narcissus absolute is made by a solvent extraction
and is a very rare and expensive absolute. It is generally used in
small amounts in antiaging face care products for its exotic scent
and ability to repair.
Narcissus poeticus bulb extract: This extract contains a wide range of
compounds that boost the immune system and are antiviral, anti-
inflammatory, and anticancer. In skin care, the extract is used in
antiaging products to decrease inflammation and reduce
premature aging. It also has a positive effect in the treatment of
acne.
Narcissus poeticus wax: This wax is used as an emollient and
thickening agent, and to add a smooth and creamy texture. It is
used in body lotions and face creams to repair, restore, and protect
skin from environmental damage. It also has a calming and
relaxing effect.
Neem oil: The oil is cold-pressed from the fruit and seeds of the
tropical neem tree. It is high in essential fatty acids and
 antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antiviral, and
antibacterial properties. It is also a pesticide. It visibly reduces
redness and inflammation and has been used in traditional
medicine as a remedy for acne and viruses because of an aspirin-
like compound that combats bacteria. It can be mildly irritating for
some skin types and should never be used undiluted. While its
effects are profound for skin, its strong aroma makes it challenging
to formulate within a significant percentage.
Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate: This is a synthetic
combination of neopentyl glycol and a blend of fatty acids. The
fatty acid components help lubricate skin and increase cell
resilience. It’s used as an emollient and texturizer in products such
as concealers, lipsticks, conditioners, foundations, and cleansers
and has been classified as safe for cosmetic use.
Neroli essential oil (Aurantium amara): This extremely expensive
essential oil comes from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree
native to tropical regions in Asia and Africa. It should never be
applied undiluted but added to a product in a small percentage or
used with a carrier oil. The scent is highly desirable, but due to cost,
it is generally used in a very small percentage in a larger scent
blend.
Neroli extract (Aurantium amara): Due to the scarcity and expense of
both neroli essential oil and hydrosol, this extract, which carries
little to no scent, is often used in skin care for its antioxidant, anti-
inflammatory, and soothing properties as a way of achieving some
of the benefits without the cost. It is added to products containing
the oil or hydrosol to boost benefits and decrease the amount of oil
or hydrosol needed.
Neroli hydrosol (Aurantium amara): Neroli hydrosol is an antioxidant-
rich, purifying astringent that has soothing properties that can
regenerate skin cells, decrease redness, maintain elasticity, and
rejuvenate skin. It also fights inflammation and is antibacterial,
making it helpful in the treatment of both acne and rosacea. It is
 gentle and can be used undiluted on all skin types. Alone, it makes
a wonderful toner or facial mist. It can also replace water in any
formulation to increase efficacy.
Niaouli essential oil (Melaleuca quinquenervia): This tree is related to
the tea tree. Niaouli is considered a milder version and is suitable
for sensitive skin. Its antiseptic properties are beneficial in the
treatment of oily and acne-prone skin. It is also used for detoxifying
and uplifting mood.
Noni (Morinda citrifolia): This evergreen tree in the coffee family was
originally grown in the tropics. Clinical studies have shown that
noni guards against and decreases wrinkles; visibly reduces crow’s-
feet; and improves skin health, elasticity, tone, and firmness to
maintain a youthful glow.
Nonoxynols: These are used for surfactants, solvents, and emulsifying
agents. There is potential contamination with known carcinogen
ethylene oxide and formaldehyde donor 1,4 dioxane. While
deemed safe for rinse-off products, they are a controversial
ingredient. They can be found in almost every type of cosmetic
from body lotions and hair care to face creams and bubble bath.
Nutmeg essential oil (Myristica fragrans): Studies have shown nutmeg
to be antibacterial, antiviral, and antioxidant, although the most
studied attribute is its calming effect on the nervous system. It is
used for its aromatherapeutic properties as well as in hand
sanitizers and for acne. Some people can have a sensitivity to the
essential oil, so it’s important to patch test it before use.
Nutmeg powder (Myristica fragrans): This powder is used in face masks
and exfoliators targeting acne. Generally, people with acne should
not exfoliate with manual exfoliants. Cut and sifted powder is used
in facial steams targeting breakouts and blackheads.
Nutmeg wax (Myristica fragrans): This exotic wax has a different
profile from most waxes and adds a warm, spicy note to products. It
is calming and used in bar lotions, lip balms, and face and body
 care. It is also used in body creams and salves for pain relief. It
provides skin conditioning, viscosity, firmness, and stability.
Nylon-12: A synthetic polymer that is both solid and flexible, this is a
popular bulking agent and texture and viscosity enhancer. It is used
in many products from cosmetics and fragrances to soaps and face
and body creams.

O-cymen-5-ol: A synthetic preservative used in cosmetics, this

controversial ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetics
in America in a 0.5% concentration, although Europe has approved
it for only 0.1%. Additionally, some studies done in the 1950s found
it neurotoxic to animals. Currently, information is limited.
Oak bark (Quercus cortex): Oak bark contains tannins and is a gentle
astringent. It also has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial
properties that have a positive effect on dermatitis and
inflammation of the skin. It is used in bath soaks and salves aimed
at reducing inflammation, and is added to facial toners.
Oak moss essential oil (Evernia prunastri): This is a species of lichen.
Oak moss fragrance is often called an essential oil, however it is
not made by steam distillation but by chemical solvent extraction.
The essential oil is generally used in fragrances and scent blends. It
is a controversial ingredient, and the EWG rates it 7/10 for toxicity.
Oak moss extract (Evernia prunastri): The extract has antioxidant,
antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal properties. It is extracted
with light heat process in either glycerin or oil. It does not have the
same aroma as the essential oil and is generally used in hand
sanitizers, shampoos, skin care targeting acne, as a fragrance
ingredient, and in foot care. Natural skin care companies wanting
 the benefits of oak moss will often opt for the oil or glycerin
extraction instead of the “essential oil,” despite its different aroma.
Oat extract (Avena sativa): A member of the grass family, oats can be
used as a natural cleanser that visibly soothes, calms, and softens.
Studies have shown that colloidal oatmeal provides a protective
barrier against irritants and holds moisture in. It also acts as an
emollient, balances pH, and reduces itchiness. Oats have
antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits and protect against UV
radiation. Oat extract is used in skin care, bath and body care, and
is often combined with colloidal oatmeal.
Oat oil (Avena sativa): Derived from entire oat kernels by a solvent
extraction, this nongreasy oil has antioxidant and anti-
inflammatory properties. It is easily absorbed by skin and used in
acne treatments.
Oat straw extract (Avena sativa): This benefits of oat straw are less
well known than the edible oat, but it has potent effects on skin.
The extract is made from the dried stalks, leaves, and tops of oat
plants and used for its nutrient content of vital minerals such as
calcium, magnesium, and silica. Oat straw tincture is used in skin
care and hair care to provide a restorative mineral boost. It helps
regulate skin’s oil production and is anti-inflammatory, so it
soothes and calms red, itchy, irritated skin. It is used in skin care
aimed at excessively oily skin and sensitive skin.
Obsidian clay (illite): Obsidian clay is a purifying clay rich in natural
minerals including sulfur, which makes this clay beneficial for skin
conditions such as acne, eczema, or psoriasis. Its high absorption
capacity makes it very helpful for oily skin and for deep-cleaning
pores. It purifies skin and visibly reduces the appearance of
blemishes and breakouts.
Octinoxate: A common ingredient used for its ability to absorb and
filter UV rays, octinoxate is used in face creams with SPF,
sunscreens, and to preserve the freshness of other ingredients.
 There are safety concerns as research has shown reproductive and
developmental issues for expectant mothers; it is also a
penetration enhancer. It is often found in products targeting acne,
although some researchers found it can cause breakouts and
dermatitis. The FDA states there is not enough evidence to consider
it harmful to humans and has not restricted it in cosmetic use,
although consumers and natural skin care companies consider it
controversial.
Octyl palmitate: Derived from palm oil, this ester is used for viscosity
and to add a thick and creamy texture. It is also used as a silicone
replacement as it gives skin the same silky, polished feeling. It can
clog pores and increase breakouts.
Octyldodecyl myristate: This compound is used as a thickening agent
and emollient. There is little information on its safety, and currently
it is deemed nontoxic.
Oenocarpus bataua fruit oil: Extracted from the fruit of a palm tree
native to the Amazon rain forest, this oil’s extensive fatty acid
profile contains antibacterial, antioxidant, and antiviral properties,
along with amino acids, essential fatty acids, and vitamin A. It is
used in skin care for moisturizing, to combat acne, and as a
thickening agent and an antiaging ingredient. It is easily absorbed
by skin, leaving a nongreasy feel.
Oenocarpus bataua extract: This extract is made from a combination
of the bataua fruit leaves and roots, which both contain
antioxidants although the leaves contain more. It is used in skin
care to prevent damage from UV rays and environmental stress,
reduce signs of aging, and prevent fine lines and wrinkles.
Olive leaf extract (Olea europaea): Traditionally, this oil pressed from
the fruit has been used in skin care. Less common but highly
effective, the leaf extract is gaining popularity for its antibacterial,
anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antiviral properties. One potent
antioxidant present in large amounts, oleuropein, makes the
 extract highly effective in protecting against free radical damage,
collagen deterioration, and aging. The extract is used topically to
treat acne and wrinkles, as well as a preservation booster.
Olive oil (Olea europaea): Olive oil is rich in one of the few natural
sources of the super hydrating and emollient squalene. The oil has
an abundance of essential fatty acids and antioxidants. It also stops
overproduction of oil and is used for eczema, psoriasis, and
postoperative scar tissue. As well as maintaining a proper moisture
balance, it aids in elasticity and healing severely chapped and
cracked skin. Olive oil is noncomedogenic and penetrates deep
into the skin to provide profound, long-lasting moisture and help
skin stay smooth, soft, and supple. Olive oil is used in body lotions,
face creams, face oils, and soap. It can be used in cold-process
soaps. The more olive oil, the less lather, so it is generally
combined with other oils.
Olive pomace oil (Olea europaea): Olive pomace oil is a by-product of
olive oil production. It has some of the same nutrient profile but is
much less concentrated and not as beneficial for skin. It is less
expensive than regular olive oil and primarily used for soapmaking.
As with regular olive oil, this can be used in cold-process soaps,
though usually in combination with other oils.
Orange extract (Citrus × sinensis): Oranges contain more than 170
phytochemicals and are packed with antioxidants. The extract is
generally made from the peel, which has the highest concentration
of antioxidants. It protects skin from UV damage and helps
revitalize collagen and support skin structure. Orange extract is a
noncaustic way to get the benefits of the orange peel without the
scent of the essential oil.
Orange juice (Citrus sinensis): Orange juice is high in antioxidants and
helps maintain youthful skin, reduce wrinkles, prevent collagen
deterioration, and eliminate dead skin cells. It can replace water in
skin care formulations or be added to hard bar soaps.
Orange peel (Citrus sinensis): Orange peel contains powerful
antioxidants that protect skin from environmental stressors, purify
and rebalance skin, and visibly reduce signs of aging. It has
antiseptic properties and encourages growth of new skin cells, so it
is commonly used to treat stretch marks and other forms of
damaged skin. Dried and powdered peel is also used in face masks.
Oregano essential oil (Origanum vulgare): Extracted from oregano
leaves, this essential oil contains carvacrol, which is antibacterial;
thymol, an antifungal; and rosmarinic acid, an antioxidant. These
three ingredients make a powerful combination to treat acne,
athlete’s foot, and topical infections, although its strong odor
makes it difficult to use in concentrations high enough for full
efficacy.
Oregano extract (Origanum vulgare): Made from oregano leaves
(sometimes with the seeds), the leaf extract can be in alcohol or
chemical solvents. It contains all the benefits of the essential oil in
a less concentrated and pungent form.
Oregano hydrosol (Origanum vulgare): Oregano hydrosol is antiseptic,
antifungal, and antiviral. It has all the benefits of the essential oil in
a less caustic form and can be used undiluted or to replace water in
a formulation to increase efficacy. The aroma is less strong than
the essential oil but still strong enough that it generally is blended
with something else. It is often used in foot soaps and acne
products as well as hand sanitizers, deodorants, and sometimes
mouthwash.
Oregano seed oil (Origanum vulgare): Filled with essential fatty acids,
antioxidants, and vitamin E, this oil also contains antifungal and
antibiotic properties. It is used in antiaging products to hydrate skin
and help it retain moisture, visibly reduce signs of aging, protect
skin against environmental damage, and maintain healthy
collagen.
Orris root: This ingredient is generally from the roots of Iris germanica
 and Iris pallida. It is used for its beautiful violet-like aroma as a
fixative in perfumes, essential oil blends, and in powders, potpourri,
bath salts, and facial steams.
Oryzanol: This is an ester used for its skin-conditioning, softening, and
antiaging benefits in face creams, masks, face oils, and serums for
mature skin.
Oxidoreductase: An enzyme that increases the efficacy of antioxidants
used in products to prevent signs of aging, oxidoreductase
facilitates the antioxidants in preventing the breakdown of
collagen and elastin and protecting against environmental
damage. It is anti-inflammatory and can be used on sensitive skin.
Ozokerite wax: A naturally occurring paraffin found in shales and
sandstones, this is a fairly hard wax with emulsifying and emollient
properties that is often used for viscosity and thickness in many
products.

Palm kernel oil (Elaeis guineensis): This comes from the same plant as
palm oil but is extracted from the seed rather than the flesh. Filled
with antioxidants, it is used in antiaging creams and soaps.
Palm oil (Elaeis guineensis): From the flesh of the fruit of the oil palm,
palm oil is dark orange due to the high levels of carotenes. It
contains essential fatty acids and tocotrienols, strong antioxidants
that help fight free radicals, visibly reduce fine lines and wrinkles,
and cleanse without a greasy feel. It is primarily used in
soapmaking, body lotions, and products for antiaging.
Palmarosa essential oil (Cymbopogon martini): Extracted from the
leaves of a plant native to southeast Asia, this essential oil has
antibacterial and antiviral properties and is used for acne,
 balancing oil production, eczema, dry and oily skin, psoriasis,
wound healing, wrinkles, and infections.
Palmarosa hydrosol (Cymbopogon martini): This hydrosol has all the
beneficial properties and scent of palmarosa essential oil but in a
less caustic form that can be used undiluted or to replace water in
formulations to increase efficacy. It is very versatile and beneficial
for all skin types, making it popular in a wide variety of face care
products. It is effective for eczema and psoriasis and used in sprays
and bath soaks targeting the treatment of both.
Papaya (Carica papaya): Native to Mexico and South America, papaya
contains an enzyme called papain, which removes dead skin cells
to resurface skin. Papaya is a rich source of antioxidants that
protect skin from environmental factors, wrinkles, and aging.
Papaya seed oil (Carica papaya): Extracted from papaya seeds, the oil
contains essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and enzymes. It is also
antibacterial and antifungal and is used to treat acne and athlete’s
foot. It is added to face cleansers to help remove dead skin cells
and rejuvenate skin, face oils to protect against aging and acne,
and to scalp oils and foot balms.
Parabens: Parabens are a group of synthetic chemicals used as
preservatives in cosmetics and personal care products. They
include butylparaben, propylparaben, methylparaben,
isobutylparaben, and ethylparaben. Despite much press about their
toxicity, the FDA considers them safe for use. Some studies argue
that cumulative exposure contributes to health problems, including
risk of breast cancer as they’re said to disrupt hormone function.
Parsley seed essential oil (Petroselinum crispum): This essential oil has
the benefits of parsley seed oil in a more concentrated form. It
should be diluted before use. It is generally used in wound care and
is becoming a popular ingredient in products targeting acne.
Parsley seed oil (Petroselinum crispum): Extracted by cold-pressing,
this very pure oil is gaining popularity. In comparison to other oils it
 has one of the strongest capacities to protect against free radical
damage. It is filled with phytochemicals and essential fatty acids
and is used in skin care to fight and reverse signs of aging, and to
treat acne.
Passion fruit oil (Passiflora edulis): Passion fruit oil comes from the
seeds of the passionflower plant, native to South America and
Africa. It is full of vitamins and nutrients including vitamins A and C,
copper, magnesium, calcium, carotenoids, and essential fatty acids.
It is an extremely hydrating, lightweight, nongreasy, and
noncomedogenic oil, making it suitable for all skin types. It protects
skin against environmental damage and premature signs of aging,
reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and keeps skin
smooth and supple.
Patchouli essential oil (Pogostemon cablin): Extracted from the leaves
and stems of a plant in the mint family, this essential oil has an
earthy, woody scent that is used in perfumes and essential oil
blends for face care and body products. Topically, it has astringent,
antifungal, antibacterial, and wound-healing properties and is used
for acne, eczema, dermatitis, and dandruff.
Patchouli hydrosol (Pogostemon cablin): Patchouli hydrosol has all the
attributes of the essential oil in a less caustic form and can be used
undiluted. The scent is similar to the essential oil but a bit more
fresh and vibrant. It is used in toners and cleansers for acne,
shampoos, deodorants, and body sprays for eczema and psoriasis.
Pawpaw fruit (Asimina triloba): Pawpaw fruit, from a small deciduous
tree native to Canada and the United States, is antibacterial and
high in antioxidants, magnesium, and amino acids. It gently
removes skin cells and helps protect collagen and maintain healthy
skin. The fruit is used in skin care products for antiaging and acne.
Pawpaw seed oil (Asimina triloba): This oil, extracted from pawpaw
seeds, is high in essential fatty acids and found in many products
from face oils and creams to soaps. It is used to treat dehydrated
 skin, eczema, and psoriasis.
Peach flesh/juice (Persica vulgaris): Peaches are anti-inflammatory
and contain antioxidants such as quercetin, vitamin C, and
potassium. They are used topically to reduce wrinkles, smooth skin
texture, maintain and promote new healthy collagen, protect
against environmental damage, and help remove dead skin cells.
They can be used either fresh or powdered in face masks, facial
cleansers, face creams, and soap.
Peach kernel oil (Persica vulgaris): This oil is extracted from the peach
kernel. It has a shorter shelf life and is less stable than other oils. It
is high in essential fatty acids and amino acids and is used in facial
products for antiaging.
Peanut oil: Extracted through cold-pressing, peanut oil is pure and
retains the beneficial nutrients, although refined oil (bleached and
deodorized) is often used as it is generally considered safe for
those with peanut allergy. It is filled with essential fatty acids,
vitamin E, and amino acids. It is intensely hydrating, protects skin
from UV radiation, and helps maintain the skin’s natural protective
barrier.
Pear seed oil (Pyrus communis): Pear seed oil is harvested from pears,
whereas prickly pear oil is harvested from cacti. This oil, which is
lightweight and quickly absorbed, visibly improves skin elasticity
and restores moisture to leave skin feeling smooth and soft. It is
used in face creams and oils as a powerful ingredient for antiaging.
Pecan meal (Carya illinoinensis): Pecan meal has all the properties of
the oil plus the ability to exfoliate without causing
microdermabrasions. It is used in face exfoliants in cream or
powdered form, which avoids the need for preservatives in
formulations. It is also used in soapmaking to provide gentle
exfoliation.
Pecan oil (Carya illinoinensis): Cold-pressed from the nuts and rich in
essential fatty acids and vitamin E, pecan oil is nongreasy and
 easily absorbed by skin, where it protects against UV damage,
hydrates, and helps generate new skin cells. It is used in face care
products targeting dehydration, mature skin, and visible signs of
aging.
Pectin: This gelatinous polysaccharide that naturally occurs in fruits is
used as a thickener, gelling agent, and texture enhancer. Often,
apple pectin is used in skin care as it also has the benefits of the
antioxidants, alpha hydroxy acids, and other attributes of apples.
PEG: This is an acronym for polyethylene glycol. There are many PEG
compounds as polyethylene glycol can be mixed with fatty
alcohols or fatty acids to create different ingredients. Each has a
different use in cosmetics, such as being emollients or surfactants.
Depending on the manufacturing process, ingredients formulated
with PEGs may be contaminated with carcinogenic ethylene oxide
and formaldehyde-donor 1,4 Dioxane. 1,4 Dioxane can be removed
during manufacturing but, as with all PEGs, there’s no way to know
whether the PEGs has undergone that additional process. PEGs are
also penetration enhancers, allowing all ingredients in a product
more profound transdermal access.
PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate: This ester is made from glycerin and coconut
oil. It is used as a thickening agent, foam booster, emollient, and for
skin conditioning. Product labels may be confusing and state “all
natural derived from glycerin and coconut oil” when in fact it
contains manufactured PEG.
PEG 8: This is the ester of lauric acid used as both a surfactant and
emulsifier. (See PEG for safety concerns.)
PEG 14: This is a polymer of ethylene oxide. PEG 14 is used as a skin-
conditioning agent. It can clog pores and cause irritation. (See PEG
for safety concerns.)
PEG 32: This emulsifier is used to suspend oil and water. (See PEG for
safety concerns.)
PEG 33: This is used as a humectant and solvent and for viscosity. (See
PEG for safety concerns.)
PEG 90M: Used to add lubrication and viscosity and for film forming,
this also helps stabilize emulsions. (See PEG for safety concerns.)
PEG-100 stearate: Also known as polywax, this is used as an emulsifier.
It is made by combining oils with stearic acid (a naturally occurring
fatty acid in plants and animals) or ethylene oxide and fatty acids.
Ethylene oxide is a carcinogen and traces of the by-product 1,4
dioxane (a formaldehyde donor) can remain in the product. The
substance is used in creams, lotions, and conditioners. (See PEG for
safety concerns.)
PEG-150 distearate: A polyethylene glycol diester of stearic acid (a
naturally occurring fatty acid in plants and animals). It is both a
thickener and surfactant and used in products such as shampoo,
bubble bath, and shower gel. It can also be used with other
emulsifiers in lotions and creams. (See PEG for safety concerns.)
Peppermint extract (Mentha x piperita): This extract is primarily used
in skin care products such as facial cleansers to control oil
production, and as an anti-inflammatory and mild astringent.
Peptides: Peptides are a chain of amino acids linked by amide bonds
(peptide bonds). While there is exciting research about their
benefits, some of it has been exaggerated, such as marketing it as a
replacement for cosmetic surgery. Although they are often used
alone, peptides work best in skin care formulations when in
conjunction with other ingredients such as antioxidants.
Perilla seed oil (Perilla frutescens): This oil comes from the seeds of a
plant in the mint family native to Asia. It is rich in essential fatty
acids, including omega-3. It has antibacterial and anti-
inflammatory benefits as well as being a potent antioxidant. It is
readily absorbed into the skin, nongreasy, and noncomedogenic,
making it particularly useful for treating acne, aging, and
dehydrated skin.
Petitgrain (Citrus aurantium var. amara): Often called poor man’s
neroli, petitgrain is derived from the same tree as neroli but
extracted from the leaves and twigs rather than the blossom. It is
much less expensive than neroli and therefore more widely used in
perfume and essential oil blends. Topically, it effectively treats
acne and bacterial infections and can be used as an antiseptic, to
balance oil production, and heal wounds. It is safe for sensitive skin.
Petitgrain hydrosol (Citrus aurantium var. amara): The hydrosol is
widely used as it has all the aroma and attributes of the essential
oil but can be used undiluted or to replace water in formulations to
increase efficacy and impart scent. It is suitable for sensitive skin. It
calms redness and inflammation and eases rosacea. It is used in
toners, face cleansers, face creams, and body lotions and also as a
calming and relaxing spray.
Petrolatum/petroleum: Petroleum can be found on many skin care
product labels under such names as xylene, toluene, mineral oil,
and liquid paraffin. Besides being comedogenic, there are safety
concerns as it contains 1,4 dioxane, a probable carcinogen.
PHA (polyhydroxy acids): AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) and BHA (beta
hydroxy acid) are commonly found in many skin care products.
PHAs are less well known but considered a better choice for
sensitive skin as their molecular structure is larger so they don’t
penetrate skin as easily. They are humectants and they gently
exfoliate and dissolve dead skin cells.
Phenoxyethanol: This lesser-known preservation alternative to
parabens became popular when parabens started getting negative
press. However, there is evidence of its harmful effects, and many
natural skin care companies now choose to be phenoxyethanol
free as well as paraben free.
Phenylalanine: Occurring naturally in high-protein foods such as eggs,
meat, and milk, phenylalanine has amino acids and lipids and is
used for skin conditioning, hydrating, and to visibly reduce signs of
 aging. There’s some conflicting information about taking it
internally as a supplement, and although it is generally considered
safe, people with PKU (phenylketonuria) need to avoid it.
Phenylpropanol: Phenylpropanol is used for preservation against
bacteria, yeasts, and molds. It can cause skin sensitivity and in a
study, rats dosed orally with 3-phenylpropanol at certain levels
died within two days. While considered safe by many natural skin
care companies, there’s insufficient research on its safety. It is used
in products that are both left on and rinsed off, such as lotions or
cleansers.
Phthalate: Phthalates are generally used to make plastics, but they’re
also used as solvents. The long-term health effects are not
conclusive, but research has shown them to affect the reproductive
system in laboratory animals; more research is being done to
confirm the findings and ascertain safe levels of use and exposure.
Currently the FDA does not require a listing of the individual
ingredients of fragrance, so phthalates may end up in products but
not be labeled. They’re generally found in nail polish, fragrances,
and hair care products.
Phytic acid: Phytic acid naturally occurs in plant seeds. Its use
internally is controversial as it impairs the absorption of minerals.
Seeds can be soaked, sprouted, or fermented to reduce the phytic
acid content. Topically, it is used as a powerful antioxidant in skin
care products aimed at reducing signs of aging.
Phytonutrients: Plants contain different chemicals called
phytonutrients. This large group of chemicals helps the plant
survive by protecting it from fungus, bugs, and other elements.
There are more than 25,000 phytonutrients that are powerhouse
ingredients for skin care, doing everything from decreasing
dehydration and wrinkles to protecting against environmental
stressors and retarding signs of aging.
Pine bark extract (Pinus sylvestris): Pine bark has anti-inflammatory,
 antibacterial, and antiviral properties. The extract can either be
extracted in an oil or a chemical solvent and used as an antiaging
agent and to treat acne.
Pine essential oil (Pinus sylvestris): Made from pine needles, this
essential oil is antiseptic and detoxifying and used for eczema,
psoriasis, cuts, sores, congested pores, and acne. It is often found in
facial toners, body creams, bar lotions, and salves.
Pine leaf extract (Pinus sylvestris): Extracted either in oil or a chemical
solvent, pine leaf extract has been studied for efficacy against
cancer cells. There is less research about its effect on skin. It has
antioxidant properties and is found in some toners, cleansers, and
face creams. However, some people have a sensitivity to it.
Pineapple (Ananas comosus): Pineapple contains bromelain, an
enzyme that softens skin, visibly reduces the appearance of
inflammation, removes dead skin cells, and combats buildup.
Perfect for problem skin, the enzyme helps disintegrate excess
surface cells for efficient and nonabrasive exfoliation, leaving skin
clean and luminous. It also helps hydrate skin and improves
elasticity.
Pink kaolin clay: This is a mixture of white and red kaolin clays. It
offers all the properties of both clays, although it does not have the
absorption capacity of the red alone. Its beautiful color and
attributes make it popular for face and body masks. Clays are often
used in soaps and this pink clay gives soap a lovely natural color.
Pink lotus absolute (Nelumbo nucifera): The flower from which this oil
comes is also known as the sacred lotus or water lily. It is used for
hyperpigmentation, muscle pain, antiaging, and as an astringent.
This popular ingredient is included in perfumes and scent blends in
everything from body lotions and massage oils to soaps and face
creams.
Pink lotus leaf extract (Nelumbo nucifera): Made from pink lotus
leaves, this extract is filled with bioflavonoids and antioxidants. It
 protects skin against environmental damage, slows signs of aging,
helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and prevents sagging. The
powdered form is advantageous for face masks and exfoliants in
the natural skin care sector as it eliminates the need for
preservation systems; the liquid form is used in face creams and
body lotions.
Pistachio nuts (Pistacia vera L.): Pistachios contain essential fatty acids,
amino acids (in higher concentration than most other nuts),
vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and phytonutrients. They’re also
prebiotic. The nuts are ground into a flour and used as a gentle
exfoliant, in powdered face masks, and soapmaking. They’re
beneficial for all skin types, including sensitive.
Pistachio oil (Pistacia vera L.): This oil has the same nutrient profile as
the nuts in a more concentrated form. It’s light, nongreasy,
noncomedogenic, and easily absorbed into skin. It is beneficial for
all skin types and used in everything from lotions and body creams
to face oils and soaps.
Plankton extract: Plankton extract comes from a combination of
marine skeletons, seaweeds, and algae. Rich in vitamins, amino
acids, minerals, and silica, it is used for its soothing, intensively
moisturizing, antiaging, antiwrinkle, and anticellulite abilities. It
also helps maintain healthy collagen structure and promotes
renewal.
Plantain fruit (Plantago major): Originally native to Europe and Asia,
plantains are extremely high in vitamin C and potassium and are
useful for a range of skin types. They lock in moisture and soothe
dry, flaky skin while promoting healthy cell development, resulting
in a glowing complexion. By stimulating the natural rejuvenation
process, they can also diminish acne scars, balance skin tone, and
act as a natural protectant for healing skin.
Plantain leaf (Plantago major): Plantain leaves are soothing emollients
packed with powerful anti-inflammatories that make them
 valuable for topical wound healing and for acne, and antiaging
products.
Plum kernel oil (Prunus domestica): Extracted from plum kernels in a
cold-press process without using solvents, this pure oil is high in
essential fatty acids and antioxidants. It can be used undiluted but
generally is combined with other oils. It is most effective when used
for dehydrated skin as well as an antiaging agent.
Plum vinegar: The popularity of apple cider vinegar in skin care has
paved the way for other vinegars, such as this one, which is also
known as umeboshi vinegar. Plum vinegar is rich in antioxidants
and enzymes that digest skin cells, help balance pH, and protect
against aging. It is used in facial toners, cleansers, and masks.
Polyethylene: This synthetic wax made from ethylene is a type of
plastic used in products for stability, hardness, and as a thickening
agent. It is used in stick formulations such as lipstick, foundation
sticks, and sunscreen sticks; it enables these products to withstand
heat. It also helps prevent oil separation and creates a film to make
colors more vibrant.
Polyhydroxystearic acid: This very soft wax derived from the castor
plant (see castor oil) is used as a thickening agent, to increase
viscosity, hardness, and to form a film. It adds a creamy texture and
stability to emulsions. It’s used in color cosmetics, sunscreens, gels,
and body creams.
Polypodium leucotomos: This potent antioxidant comes from a fern
that grows in Central America. It inhibits the growth of free radicals
and prevents damage from UV radiation. It’s a powerful anti-
inflammatory and helps in the production of new skin cells and the
repair of damaged skin cells. It is used to treat psoriasis and
prematurely aging skin.
Polysaccharides: These are carbohydrate molecules composed of a
variety of sugar molecules bonded together. They give lotions and
creams better spreadability and a decadent feel. They increase
 hydration levels, decrease fine lines and wrinkles, and even out skin
tone. They may also have antioxidant properties.
Polysorbate 20: This is one of the most common emulsifiers used as an
emollient, surfactant, and stabilizer in cleansers, moisturizers, and
skin care products for children. The carcinogen ethylene oxide, and
traces of 1,4 dioxane (a formaldehyde donor) can remain in the
product.
Polysorbate-60: This is an emulsifier consisting of sorbitol (a sugar
alcohol), ethylene oxide (a carcinogen), and stearic acid (a
naturally occurring fatty acid in plants and animals). Research
shows it is a mild skin and eye irritant. It is typically considered to
be a low hazard ingredient; however, there are concerns regarding
cancer risks and reproductive toxicity (the EWG group rates it 3/10).
Polysorbate-80: This is an emulsifier consisting of sorbitol (a sugar
alcohol), ethylene oxide (a carcinogen), and oleic acid (a fatty acid).
It has the ability to penetrate the blood-brain barrier and
potentially cause anaphylactic shock. It also caused reproductive
abnormality in rats. Some consider this controversial ingredient
safe; others suggest it should be avoided.
Pomegranate juice (Punica granatum): This juice is packed with
minerals and vitamins, especially vitamin C, and contains
antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that protect and
defend skin and hair against harmful elements such as UV rays,
stress, poor diet, and pollution that damage and prematurely age
skin and deteriorate collagen.
Pomegranate peel extract (Punica granatum): Pomegranate peel is
made into an extract and used in high-end skin care. It has a stable
shelf life, unlike the juice and oil, but more importantly it has a
more concentrated ratio of antioxidants and anti-inflammatories,
providing the benefits of the seed and the oil in higher
concentration. It lacks the essential fatty acids present in the oil
and is often combined with creams and oils to increase the
 benefits.
Pomegranate seed oil (Punica granatum): Pomegranate seed oil
contains essential fatty acids, antioxidants, and anti-inflammatories
and is often paired with pomegranate peel extract as it increases
the delivery of the active ingredients. Research has shown it to be
effective on skin tumors.
Poppy seed oil (Oleum papaveris seminis): Used both internally and
topically, this oil is rich in vitamin E, antioxidants, and essential
fatty acids. It is fairly stable with a longer shelf life than most plant
oils and is used in face oils and creams targeting aging and
dehydration.
Poria cocos extract: Also known as hoelen and fu ling, this extract is
from an edible mushroom traditionally used medicinally. It
contains anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, and antiviral
properties, plus amino acids. Its ability to regulate oil production
makes it effective for oily and acne-prone skin. It is also used for
mature, sensitive, or dehydrated skin, and to visibly reduce signs of
aging.
Potassium phosphate: This inorganic salt is used to adjust pH and as a
buffering agent.
Potassium sorbate: Used as both a food grade and a cosmetic
preservative, this substance derived from petroleum is suspected of
causing allergies in some people and has been found to have
negative health effects. It offers no skin-enhancing qualities.
Previously popular as a natural preservation system, more
companies are looking for an alternative. The EWG now gives it a
3/10 on its hazard rating.
Pracaxi seed oil (Pentaclethra macroloba): From an evergreen tree
native to tropical areas in South America, this oil is extremely high
in essential fatty acids, is anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, and
helps generate new skin cells. Due to its nutritional profile it is
suitable for many applications but is generally used in skin care
 products targeting dehydration and acne.
Prickly pear oil (Opuntia ficus-indica L.): Extracted from the seeds of a
member of the cactus family, prickly pear oil is rich in vitamins A
and C, calcium, and potassium, as well as tannins, flavonoids, and
alkaloids. It increases cell renewal.
Probiotics: Probiotics are microorganisms that contribute to and
promote health and balance in their host. They are found in foods
such as yogurt, kefir, sauerkraut, and kombucha. While many forms
are not vegetarian or vegan, there are vegan sources of probiotics.
Probiotics help protect skin against external contaminants, balance
pH, are anti-inflammatory, help reduce acne breakouts, and retard
signs of aging. They have also been shown to prevent free radical
damage, which accelerates skin aging and collagen deterioration.
For skin health they are used both internally as well as topically in
skin preparations such as face creams and serums.
Propanediol: This is used to control the viscosity of a product, for
conditioning, and as a humectant and preservation booster. One of
the biggest concerns is its manufacture and the potential
environmental and health effects. One method of manufacture is
from acrolein, which is also found in cigarette smoke and may be a
factor in lung cancer. Often cited as “natural,” propanediol can be
made from genetically modified (GMO) corn. The most widely used
version in the cosmetic industry comes from DuPont Chemical. It’s
found in products from masks and shampoos to moisturizers and
sunscreen.
Propolis: This sticky substance is made by bees from sap, beeswax, and
other elements they use as a coating to build their nests. It contains
antioxidants specifically high in flavonoids and is also considered
to be antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antiviral. It is
used in salves for wound healing and scars, in acne products, and in
antiaging skin care.
Propylene glycol: This petroleum-derived substance is a penetration
 enhancer. It’s a suspected immune system, reproductive, skin, and
respiratory toxin. It is extremely common and found in hair care
products, lotions, shower gels, and deodorants. There is no efficacy
or benefit from using this for skin.
Pumice powder: Pumice stones are naturally produced from volcanic
ash. The stones are milled to a very fine powder and used in foot
scrubs, hand scrubs, and soaps to remove excessive dirt and oils,
and dead skin (especially on feet). It may be found in facial scrubs
but is considered too abrasive and should be avoided.
Pumpkin flesh (Cucurbita pepo L.): All parts of the pumpkin are used in
skin care for their different attributes. The flesh is rich in beta-
carotene and also contains enzymes, alpha hydroxy acid, vitamins,
and minerals. It is also a power booster for other ingredients. The
molecular structure of pumpkin is small, giving it exceptional
transdermal penetration and allowing it to carry other ingredients
in a product with it. The flesh can be dried and powdered and used
in face masks, body scrubs, and facial exfoliants.
Pumpkin seed (Cucurbita pepo L.): Rich in natural enzymes and alpha
hydroxy acids, pumpkin seed helps remove dead skin cells, giving
skin a smoother and brighter appearance. They also contain
essential fatty acids that replenish lost moisture. Pumpkin seeds
are finely ground and used as a very gentle exfoliant or added to
cleansers. They are suitable for all skin types.
Pumpkin seed oil (Cucurbita pepo L.): Cold-pressed from the seeds,
pumpkin oil is packed with vitamin E, zinc, antioxidants, and
omega-3 and -6 fatty acids to boost collagen and protect against
signs of aging. Essential fatty acids hydrate skin while regulating oil
production and fighting acne. Studies have shown the oil to be
beneficial in healing wounds and burns. It helps maintain a healthy
skin barrier, which protects skin from environmental stressors and
damage. It is beneficial for all skin types, including sensitive.
Pumpkin stem cells (Cucurbita pepo L.): Plant stem cells are currently
 hot ingredients in skin care, and while some studies cite the
benefits of pumpkin stem cells, most agree that more research is
needed. Companies, however, are increasingly adding plant stem
cells to products as consumers are seeing the results.
PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer: This synthetic polymer is used as a
binding agent and thickener.
PVP (polyvinylpyrrolidone): This synthetic water-soluble polymer is
used in cosmetics for stabilizing, viscosity, binding, and film
forming.

Raspberry flesh (Rubus idaeus L.): Raspberries are currently considered

a superfood due to their high levels of antioxidants and anti-
inflammatories. For skin care, the whole berries are dried and
ground, which enables the beautiful pink color to be imparted to
products such as soaps, face creams, bath soaks, face masks, and
bath bombs.
Raspberry juice (Rubus idaeus L.): Raspberry juice contains the
nutrients of the berry in a concentrated form. Being liquid, it has
more versatility than the powder and can be used in everything
from creams and soaps to shampoo and face serums. It also
contains a higher level of natural fruit sugars (AHAs), which remove
dead skin cells and rejuvenate skin.
Raspberry seed oil (Rubus idaeus L.): Extracted from the seeds, this oil
is rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids, and nutrients that
repair, hydrate, soften, smooth, protect, and condition skin. It is
noncomedogenic, nongreasy, and easily absorbed. It is a highly
versatile oil that can be used on all skin types, including sensitive,
from head to toe.
Red algae (Ahnfeltia concinna): This easily absorbed algae imparts
nutrients to skin, hydrating, moisturizing, revitalizing, and
maintaining skin health, elasticity, structure, and youth.
Red clover (Trifolium pratense): Red clover has been used medicinally
internally for respiratory problems associated with colds and flu
and for symptoms of menopause. It is also now being used in
salves, bath soaks, and aromatherapy blends for these symptoms.
Topically, it calms inflamed skin. Rich in vitamins and minerals, it is
most commonly used in skin care to treat psoriasis, eczema, and
rashes.
Red currant (Ribes rubrum): These small red fruits are filled with
macronutrients such as protein, fats, natural fruit sugars, vitamins C
and K, iron, and antioxidants. They help maintain collagen
structure, slowing signs of aging, preventing sagging, and helping
generate new skin cells. They also protect skin against
environmental damage.
Reishi mushroom extract (Ganoderma lucidum): This extract can be
found in organic alcohols and is filled with bioactive compounds
and antioxidants that protect skin against contaminants, generate
new skin cells, maintain healthy collagen structure, and slow signs
of aging.
Reishi mushroom powder (Ganoderma lucidum): This powder is
gaining popularity due to its efficacy and ability to be formulated in
face masks and facial exfoliants without the use of water, which
negates the need for a preservation system. Containing only dried
ground mushroom, it is more concentrated than the extract. The
powder is used in soapmaking and provides gentle exfoliation as
well as skin softening and soothing.
Reishi mushroom spore oil (Ganoderma lucidum): This oil extracted
from the mushroom spores has the highest concentration of
triterpenes, which heal and repair skin. It is used for acne,
dehydrated skin, wound healing, scar reduction, and mature skin.
Reishi mushroom water (Ganoderma lucidum): Mushroom water can
replace water in formulations to increase efficacy and impart the
benefits. Reishi mushroom water is not only a powerful antiaging
ingredient for mature skin but is also an emollient that leaves skin
incredibly soft and supple.
Resveratrol: This compound is found in large concentration in red
wine, grape skins, blueberries, cranberries, and peanuts. It is
popular in skin care for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and
antiaging properties and is used in face creams and serums
targeting premature aging, wrinkles, and fine lines.
Retinaldehyde: This gentler form of vitamin A requires only a single-
step conversion to retinoic acid, the active form cells can use,
which may lead to faster visible results. Though not conclusive,
studies suggest that, like retinol, retinaldehyde can aid in cellular
turnover yet cause very little, if any, irritation. Because it’s more
widely tolerated, it can be beneficial for those with sensitive skin
wishing to take advantage of vitamin A’s antiaging and acne-
fighting properties.
Retinoids: This generic term covers a class of potent chemical
compounds derived from synthetic vitamin A. Brand names for this
prescription-only ingredient include Retin-A and Differin. Studies
show that when applied topically (usually in a cream) retinoids are
accepted directly into skin cells. This makes them extremely
effective in diminishing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles,
hyperpigmentation, and stretch marks, while also fighting acne.
That said, they can be highly irritating, causing redness, peeling,
and photosensitivity. Pregnant women or women who may become
pregnant are advised against using retinoids.
Retinol: Retinol is the alcohol form of synthetic vitamin A that’s
available over the counter. Less effective than retinoids, retinol is
still a powerful ingredient that accelerates cell renewal. It can be
seen in antiaging and acne-targeted skin care formulations such as
moisturizers and serums. It’s known to cause irritation in some
 people and should not be used by pregnant women.
Retinyl palmitate: This synthetic ester of retinol and palmitic acid is a
less potent vitamin A derivative that requires high concentrations
for efficacy. It can be found in a variety of products, including
lipsticks, sunscreens, foundations, moisturizers, serums, shampoos,
and conditioners. Many products that contain it may not have
enough in their formulations to achieve any visible results. That
said, pregnant women are still advised against using it.
Reverse osmosis water: Since water can comprise up to 80% of a
formulation, skin care companies look for pure options to maintain
quality and efficacy. It also is helpful when labeled so people can
identify the source of the water when assessing the quality of the
product. While reverse-osmosis water is a pure form of water and
beneficial for skin care, most eco-friendly companies choose not to
use it as it takes about 4 gallons of water to produce 1 gallon.
Rhassoul clay: Mined from Morocco, this ancient clay has a high
mineral content. It’s effective at drawing out impurities, old oils,
dirt, and debris and improving skin texture and elasticity. It is
suitable for all skin types.
Ribwort plantain (Plantago lanceolata L.): Ribwort, a flowering
perennial in the plantain family, contains tannins that provide
gentle astringency, polysaccharides, and anti-inflammatories that
provide emollient and soothing, calming benefits. Studies have
shown that it has significant anti-inflammatory properties when
used topically.
Rice bran oil (Oryza sativa oleum): Extracted from the germ and
interior of the rice husk, this easily absorbed, very light oil is rich in
essential fatty acids, squalene (emollient), and antioxidants. It is
used in antiaging face creams and oils.
Rice flour (Oryza sativa oleum): Rice flour naturally softens and gently
removes dead skin cells from the face and body. It is often used in
spa treatments and soapmaking.
Rice starch (Oryza sativa oleum): An inexpensive common ingredient
and alternative to cornstarch, rice starch is used as a filler in face
masks, for viscosity in lotions, and in makeup and body powders.
Like cornstarch, when applied and left on the skin its natural sugars
encourage the growth of yeast and can activate acne, diaper rash,
and redness.
Rice syrup (Oryza sativa oleum): Generally made from whole-grain
brown rice that’s treated with enzymes, then boiled into a syrup
with a honey-like consistency, rice syrup has amino acids, essential
fatty acids, natural sugars, vitamins, and minerals. It is used as a
facial cleanser and exfoliant, and in face masks.
Rice water (Oryza sativa oleum): Made by soaking and sometimes
gently simmering rice, rice water is used in face creams to treat
psoriasis and eczema and to promote soft, supple, and velvety skin.
It is also used in face cleansers and to dissolve and remove dead
skin cells.
R-lipoic acid: This is the natural form of lipoic acid (AHA). It is not as
commonly used in skin care but some consider it to be superior.
This antioxidant is highly touted for its ability to penetrate both oil
and fluid, thus giving it greater transdermal penetration and higher
efficacy.
Rock rose absolute (Cistus ladanifer): This absolute is derived through
a solvent extraction that makes it less expensive than the essential
oil. Since it still retains all the attributes it can replace the essential
oil.
Rock rose essential oil (Cistus ladanifer): This essential oil is used for
mature skin, acne-prone skin, congested skin, and eczema. Studies
have shown it to be effective as a wrinkle reducer, as an
antibacterial, and for eliminating pore buildup.
Rock rose extract (Cistus ladanifer): This extract has antifungal
properties and is rich in tannins. It does not carry the scent of the
essential oil or the absolute and is used in cleansers and toners
 targeting acne as well as in salves and creams for feet.
Rock rose twig hydrosol (Cistus ladanifer): Made from the twigs of the
rock rose plant, this hydrosol can be used undiluted or to replace
water in formulations to increase efficacy. It is most often used for
mature skin for its firming and toning effects as well as its ability to
repair and reduce signs of aging. It is very gentle and calms
irritated, red skin, rosacea, and acne.
Roman chamomile essential oil (Anthemis nobilis L.): From a perennial
plant native to Europe and Africa, this essential oil is used to treat
headaches, acne, wrinkles, insomnia, muscle pain, anxiety, eczema,
psoriasis, cold sores, and joint pain. Generally, it is used in a very
low percentage in face oils and creams for acne or antiaging, body
lotions and bath soaks for psoriasis, eczema, and in salves for pain.
Roman chamomile extract (Anthemis nobilis L.): This extract is used for
its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiaging and pain-management
properties to help treat acne, wrinkles, eczema, redness, irritation,
and rashes. It helps calm and sooth sensitive skin.
Roman chamomile hydrosol (Anthemis nobilis L.): This hydrosol carries
the same properties as the essential oil in a non-caustic form that
can be used undiluted or to replace water in formulations to
increase efficacy. It is often included in face creams to combat
acne, dehydration, and wrinkles, or as a toner or facial mist.
Rooibos: This is a flavonoid and antioxidant superstar that is gaining
momentum in the skin care industry. Intensely purifying and pore
decongesting, the extract and tea are used in acne products and
creams for dehydration and eczema for their antibacterial and
anti-inflammatory properties. It is suitable for all skin types, even
extremely sensitive.
Rosa canina hip extract: Generally extracted in alcohol, this extract
contains flavonoids, tannins, fatty acids, carotenoids, vitamin C,
amino acids, calcium, and alpha hydroxy acid. It’s important to
know exactly what it is extracted in to ensure it contains no toxic
 components. It is used in antiaging skin care, to help protect skin
against UV damage, and to replenish skin cells and collagen.
Rosa canina hip oil: Also known as rose hip, this oil is naturally rich in
antioxidants, intensely hydrating, and quickly absorbed. Rose hip
contains retinoic acid (vitamin A), which helps promote protein
synthesis and cell regeneration. Increasing skin’s capacity to
produce new tissue can diminish the appearance of fine lines and
wrinkles.
Rosa canina hydrosol: This 100% pure plant product is used for its
ability to reduce signs of aging and improve tone and firmness.
Naturally scented, its joyful scent lifts spirits while working
wonders on skin.
Rosa canina leaf extract: Rosa canina leaves contain alkaloids and
saponins. The leaf extract is generally used in cleansers and toners
targeting the effects of aging.
Rosa canina leaf oil: This oil is made by a hydro-distillation process
that results in a product more similar to an essential oil than a
hydrosol; it has a similar profile to rose leaf extract.
Rosa canina seed powder: Rosa canina seeds are milled or ground to a
very fine powder that will gently remove dead skin cells. It is gentle
enough to use alone or in facial cleansers and masks aimed at
resurfacing skin.
Rosa x centifolia extract: Also known as cabbage rose, this extract is
used for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and astringent
properties. It helps condition skin, decongest pores, and protect
skin from free radical damage.
Rosa x centifolia flower wax: Obtained from the flowers of a cabbage
rose hybrid, this wax carries a lovely faint rose scent that it imparts
to products. It is generally used in high-end antiaging skin care.
Rosa x damascena absolute: This absolute is produced by a solvent,
making it less expensive and more readily available, although it is
 generally used for the same applications as the essential oil.
Rosa x damascena essential oil: Extracted from a great many roses, the
very small amount of essential oil produced is used to calm nerves,
calm and repair skin, and relieve PMS symptoms and depression.
Rosa x damascena extract: This is the extract of a concentrated form of
both the hip and the flower. Knowing what it was extracted in is
important when selecting products. The extract is a very versatile
and inexpensive form of the rose, making it widely used in many
face care and body care products.
Rosa x damascena flower wax: Derived from the flower petals, this
wax has the beautiful rose aroma. It is used as an emollient and for
creaminess and texture in products such as lip balms, face creams,
and body lotions.
Rosa x damascena flowers: The dried flowers, which contain
antioxidants and anti-inflammatories, are either used whole as
buds or petals, or powdered. The buds or petals are used in facial
steams, bath teas, or added to products for their decorative quality.
The ground powder is used in face masks and exfoliants.
Rosa x damascena hips extract: Rich in vitamins, minerals, essential
fatty acids, and tannins, this extract has a potent profile without the
scent of the essential oil or the absolute. It is used for its ability to
protect skin from free radical damage, repair and treat collagen,
and reduce signs of aging. The hips can also be ground and
powdered or cut and sifted. The powder is used in face masks and
facial exfoliants, and the cut and sift is used in facial steams and
bath teas.
Rosa x damascena hydrosol: This hydrosol, with its fairly strong and
vibrant aroma, has become one of the most popular rose waters. It
helps calm sensitive skin, reduces redness, protects skin from
damage, and is used as a facial toner or in lotions and creams to
increase efficacy.
Rose geranium essential oil (Pelargonium roseum): Used for its aroma
in perfumes and products such as body lotions and face creams,
this essential oil is antimicrobial and antifungal and beneficial in
acne products, foot salves, hand sanitizers, and deodorants.
Rose geranium extract (Pelargonium roseum): Made from the stem and
leaves of this flower, extract is used for pain and depression and as
an antibacterial, antifungal, and antioxidant.
Rose geranium hydrosol (Pelargonium roseum): This hydrosol has all
the attributes of the essential oil in a less concentrated form and
can replace water in formulations to increase efficacy. It is used for
acne toners and cleansers as well as foot soaks and lotions.
Rosemary essential oil (Rosmarinus officinalis): Filled with antioxidants
and anti-inflammatories, this herbaceously scented essential oil
decreases muscular pain. It is often added to lotions, soaps, and
creams where its primary use is for oily, acne-prone, and aging skin.
Rosemary extract (Rosmarinus officinalis): Made from rosemary
needles and filled with antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-
inflammatory properties, this extract does not have the potency or
aroma of the essential oil, which widens its applications and makes
it a useful, nonfragrant addition to face creams and oils targeting
the effects of aging, oily skin, and acne.
Rosemary hydrosol (Rosmarinus officinalis): This hydrosol contains the
same benefits as the essential oil but in a noncaustic form that can
replace water in formulations to increase efficacy. It is filled with
nutrients that protect skin from UV and free radical damage;
reduce breakouts, pore size, and excessive oil; and visibly tighten
skin. It can be used undiluted as a facial toner or body mist.
Rosewood essential oil (Aniba rosaeodora): Made from rosewood, this
essential oil is antibacterial, antiseptic, and naturally stimulating.
Its scent is added to perfumes and essential oil blends. Topically, it
is used to decongest pores, for acne, oily skin, inflammation,
psoriasis, scars, and cell regeneration.
Rosewood extract (Aniba rosaeodora): This antifungal, antibacterial,
and antiviral extract is generally extracted in alcohol and used in
deodorants, hand sanitizers, and acne products.
Rosewood hydrosol (Aniba rosaeodora): This hydrosol has all the
benefits of the essential oil in a less caustic form and can be used
undiluted. The pure hydrosol is used as a base for natural
deodorant, in acne toners, as a tension headache–reducing spray,
for psoriasis, and to help control oil production.
Royal jelly: Secreted by bees and fed to the queen and larvae, royal
jelly contains abundant nutrients including vitamins, minerals,
antioxidants, antibacterials, and anti-inflammatories. It supports
and hastens wound healing, increases healthy collagen production,
and slows signs of aging. It’s used internally as a supplement as
well as being a staple in skin care.

Sacha inchi oil (Plukenetia volubilis L.): From a perennial vine native to
the Peruvian rain forest, this new and increasingly popular oil
contains a super high concentration of essential fatty acids
including omega-3 and omega-6, vitamins A and D, and other
nutrients. It is noncomedogenic, and helps decongest pores, and its
antioxidant properties are highly effective for antiaging.
Saccharide isomerate: This carbohydrate is used for its ability to
increase hydration, moisturize, and keep skin soft and supple.
Saccharomyces lysate: This is a yeast compound used as a conditioning
agent and antioxidant to increase moisture levels in skin. Although
yeast and yeast-derivative ingredients are becoming very popular
in skin care, there is little documentation on their efficacy.
Safflower seed oil (Carthamus tinctorius): An annual plant grown
 commercially for the oil extracted from the seeds, this oil can be
cold-pressed or refined. The finished oil is packed with essential
fatty acids and antioxidants that visibly increase skin’s elasticity
and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It protects skin against
environmental damage and premature aging. It is
noncomedogenic, easily absorbed, inexpensive, and readily
available. An effective moisturizer, it can substitute for widely used
oils such as almond oil in nut-free applications.
Saffron (Crocus sativus): Derived from a resilient flower that can thrive
in extreme conditions, saffron protects skin against environmental
damage. Studies have shown that using saffron at 4% concentration
garners 8% SPF. It is also a soothing antioxidant and anti-
inflammatory.
Sage (Salvia officinalis L.): Native to the Mediterranean, sage has a very
strong aroma and is often used for its aromatherapeutic attributes.
Used topically, it is an astringent, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory,
and antifungal and is typically used in toners, deodorants, and foot
soaks.
Sage hydrosol (Salvia officinalis L.): Sage hydrosol is gently astringent
and has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory attributes that make it
beneficial in the treatment of acne. It can replace water in any
formulation to boost the product’s active profile and can be used
undiluted as a facial toner.
Sake: This traditional Japanese alcoholic beverage is made by
fermenting rice. It has natural sugars and enzymes that help gently
exfoliate. It is also used for brightening skin, which is different from
lightening skin, in that it restores glow. It can be added to
bathwater or replace a proportion of water in skin care products to
boost efficacy. It’s generally used in face cleansers, toners, or
masks.
Sal seed butter (Shorea robusta): Extracted from the seeds of an
evergreen tree that grows in India, sal seed butter is a true butter
 with no added ingredients. It is filled with essential fatty acids,
amino acids, minerals, and vitamins. Because it is hard butter, it can
be used in smaller percentages to add thickness and viscosity to a
body cream or lotion. It is also used in foot creams, salves, lotions,
and lip balms.
Sal seed flour (Shorea robusta): Made from the seeds by defatting the
kernel to make powder, sal seed flour is filled with amino acids,
tannins, and minerals and used as a gentle exfoliant in facial
cleansers, face masks, and soaps.
Saponins: These are a group of carbohydrates that naturally occur in
certain plants such as yucca, ginseng, licorice, and soap nuts. They
are natural surfactants and emulsifiers and soothe skin; most
contain antioxidants.
Savory (Satureja bachtiarica): Antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, and
anti-inflammatory, savory contains flavonoids and is generally used
in cleansers, toners, and face serums targeting acne.
Savory essential oil (Satureja bachtiarica): This essential oil is
antiseptic, analgesic, antibacterial, and filled with antioxidants. Its
herbaceous aroma is used in perfume and essential oil blends.
Topically it is used to treat acne and in hand sanitizers and
deodorants.
Saw palmetto extract (Serenoa repens): Extracted in either alcohol,
glycerin, oil, or chemical solvents from the berries, this extract is
available in both powder and liquid form and is used in face masks,
cleansers, and toners targeting acne.
Saw palmetto oil (Serenoa repens): This oil is extracted from the
berries but is cold-pressed and therefore very pure and rich in
essential fatty acids. It is used in products targeting acne and,
unlike the extract, can be used in face oils.
Schisandra berry extract (Schisandra chinensis): Research being done
on this extract’s benefits for antiaging has had promising results.
 The extract appears in products aimed at balancing moods, and it
is also beginning to be found in face creams targeting wrinkles and
other signs of aging.
Sea buckthorn berries (Hippophae rhamnoides): All parts of this
deciduous plant are used medicinally for different purposes. The
berries are used to ward off infections and retard aging and to
prevent sunburn, dry skin, and eczema. They are used in skin care
for dehydrated, acne-prone, and prematurely aging skin.
Sea buckthorn leaves and flowers (Hippophae rhamnoides): The leaves
and flowers of this plant are often combined and used for treating
joint pain, rashes, and acne. They are a valuable source of many
vitamins, antioxidants, proteins, fatty acids, and minerals and are
used in salves to target inflammation and pain, and in products to
generate collagen and combat acne and aging.
Sea buckthorn oil (Hippophae rhamnoides): This intensely
concentrated oil contains all the benefits of the berry. It is
antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and a rich source of vitamins C, A, E,
and beta-carotene as well as minerals, amino acids, and fatty acids.
It is noncomedogenic, highly emollient, easily absorbed, and used
to repair collagen, protect from environmental damage, reverse
and retard signs of aging, and combat dehydrated skin.
Sea salt: Sea salt is produced through the evaporation of ocean water
or water from saltwater lakes, usually with little processing.
Depending on the water source, the evaporation leaves behind
certain trace minerals and elements. Sea salt rejuvenates skin and
improves blood circulation while moisturizing, detoxifying, and
revitalizing.
Seaweed: There are many types and varieties of seaweed used in skin
care. Overall they commonly provide hydration, visibly reduce
inflammation and signs of aging, and help remove toxins. They also
fight against free radical damage, protect collagen from
deterioration, and repair and mend. They’re often added as an
 extract, which is a more concentrated form than seaweed itself.
Senna alata leaf extract: From a shrub grown throughout Thailand,
these leaves are used for their antifungal properties; studies have
shown them to be effective in the treatment of skin issues with
fungal activity. Topically, the extract is used to treat dandruff, acne,
and psoriasis.
Sesame seed (Sesamum indicum): Originally grown in tropical regions
and traditionally used as a culinary condiment, sesame seeds have
made their way into skin care products. They are an excellent
source of calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, selenium, amino acids,
antioxidants, and essential fatty acids. The seeds are very high in oil
and therefore hard to make into powder, but the ground seeds are
used as an exfoliant in soaps, facial scrubs, and cleansers.
Sesame seed oil (Sesamum indicum): This oil has the concentrated
nutrient profile of the seeds. It is easily absorbed by skin,
noncomedogenic, and intensely moisturizing. It is anti-
inflammatory and used in massage oils to alleviate pain. It also
protects skin against UV radiation and environmental damage,
making it an important oil in antiaging products. Both toasted and
untoasted sesame oils are available for culinary purposes, but for
skin care formulations, cold-processed untoasted oil is used.
Sesbania grandiflora bark: This bark is an astringent and used in facial
toners and facial cleansers.
Sesbania grandiflora leaves: These leaves contain amino acids,
antioxidants, flavonoids, antibacterials, anti-inflammatories, and
antivirals. They are used in an array of products: in bath soaks and
salves to reduce inflammation and heal bruises and in acne and
antiaging skin care.
Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii): This oil (butter) is extracted from
the nuts of a tree native to Africa. It is generally refined, bleached,
and deodorized for skin care preparations. Rich in fatty acids and
vitamins A, E, and F that visibly reduce inflammation, nourish, and
 moisturize, it is also filled with powerful antioxidants and anti-
inflammatories that rejuvenate, oxygenate, and offer a protective
barrier. An effective moisturizer, it can be used undiluted on hands,
elbows, lips, and feet to prevent and heal cracking and severe
dryness, as well as added to body lotions and soaps.
Shea oil (Butyrospermum parkii): This rare oil comes from the same
source as shea butter and is very similar to the butter except for
being liquid, which gives it different applications. Like the butter, it
has an extremely high essential fatty acid content and is used for
moisturizing, in hair care, and for dehydrated skin. Its liquid form
means it is often used in massage oils, bath oils, and body lotions.
Shiitake mushroom (Lentinula edodes): These edible mushrooms
contain vitamins, minerals, amino acids, polysaccharides, and
antioxidants. As well as being used medicinally in supplements,
topically they are anti-inflammatory and antiaging and are
becoming a mainstay in skin care. The mushroom is dried and
powdered and used in face masks and facial exfoliants.
Shiitake mushroom extract (Lentinula edodes): This extract is much
more powerful than the plain mushroom and can be used in a
greater variety of products. It is a powerful antiaging ingredient
and helps prevent dehydration, wrinkles, crows’-feet, sagging, and
discoloration.
Shiitake mushroom water (Lentinula edodes): Derived from soaked
and sometimes partially heated mushrooms, this water softens and
soothes skin as well as removes dead skin cells, increases cellular
turnover, protects collagen, and reduces signs of aging. It can
replace water in face and body creams or serums, and is used in
soapmaking. When making mushroom soap, the soaked
mushrooms are pulverized and added to the soap along with the
water.
Silica: Silica is one of the most abundant elements found on Earth and
in the human body. Topically, silica helps produce new collagen
 and skin cells, which improves elasticity, tone, and strength.
Silica microbeads: An alternative to plastic microbeads, this
biodegradable product can be added to skin care products for
gentle exfoliation.
Silk amino acids (Bombyx mori): Silkworms produce a protein, sericin,
that research shows has significant effect on wound healing as well
as imparts antioxidants. Its ability to repair and mend tissue means
it is beneficial in products geared toward treating acne. It is also
used for antiaging products with the combined benefits of
antioxidants and protein. It protects skin against environmental
damage and promotes collagen renewal.
Skullcap (Scutellaria baicalensis): This purple flowering perennial
plant contains a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory
profile that includes intense free radical scavengers. It also offers
skin-brightening properties and is a popular ingredient in skin care
products for acne, eczema, psoriasis, and antiaging.
Slippery elm bark extract (Ulmus rubra): Traditionally, the bark of this
tree native to the United States and Canada has been used
medicinally. It is a natural mucilage, and when used in skin care it
softens, soothes, and conditions.
Smithsonite extract: This extract is from the semiprecious stone, which
is rich in zinc sulfite and is being touted for its antiaging ingredients
that have an effect similar to Botox. While gemstones may be all
the rage in skin care, there’s little substantiating scientific data to
confirm their effectiveness.
Sodium benzoate: Sodium benzoate is widely used in natural skin care
cosmetics as part of a preservation system and also used as a food-
grade preservative. Several studies have linked it to health issues.
While not a harmful ingredient alone, when combined with
ascorbic acid it creates a chemical reaction that forms benzene, a
chemical used in pesticides, hair dyes, plastics, and that is also in
secondhand smoke. The American Cancer Society deems it a
 known carcinogen, so it should be avoided.
Sodium bicarbonate: This salt raises the pH of bathwater. Research
suggests that a pH level closer to ocean water (8) could be
beneficial to skin and help remove dead skin cells, though as an
exfoliant sodium bicarbonate is too rough and should not be used
in facial scrubs. It is an antibacterial. While it is often used in acne
treatments it is beneficial only for spot treatment, without
scrubbing. It is used in fizzing bath products, bath soaks, and body
scrubs.
Sodium coceth sulfate: This surfactant is used as a milder alternative
to sodium laureth sulfate. It is derived from the fatty acids of
coconut oil and modified using ethylene oxide (a carcinogen);
traces of 1,4 dioxane (a formaldehyde donor) can remain in the
product. It is used in products that lather and often used in baby
products.
Sodium hydroxide: This inorganic compound is also known as lye and
is used for making cold-processed soap. A lye-and-water bath is
mixed with fats for the saponification process to create soap. Pure
lye is caustic and precautions need to be taken, but finished soap
does not contain any lye as it is converted to a new compound
during the soapmaking process.
Sodium laureth sulfate: Made from either petroleum or coconut oil
and potentially contaminated with 1,4-dioxane (a formaldehyde
donor) this is the most widely used detergent and surfactant.
Negative press about this ingredient means companies are looking
for better alternatives.
Sodium PCA: Derived from amino acids, this humectant is naturally
found in human skin. Research shows it has the ability to bind
moisture in the air to hair and skin cells to maintain hydration.
Found in products such as shampoos, conditioners, cleansers, and
moisturizers, it is considered safe for cosmetic use in
concentrations up to 4%.
Solar-evaporated Pacific sea salt: Harvested off the Pacific Coast and
solar evaporated, these pure small granules of salt cleanse,
balance oil production, and combat bacteria. Traditionally used in
body scrubs and bath salts, it is also showing up in deodorants and
acne sprays.
Sorghum bicolor: Sorghum is a tall grass native to Africa. It is used as a
natural colorant for soap. It is filled with vitamins and has
antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits.
Sorghum bicolor stalk juice: Sorghum bicolor stalk juice is
antibacterial, antiviral, and antioxidant and contains vitamins and
minerals. It gently removes dead skin cells and gives a boost to
dull, lackluster skin.
Soy milk: Filled with amino acids, essential fatty acids, isoflavonoids,
vitamins, and minerals, soy milk can be used in skin care either
powdered or fresh. It maintains collagen structure and health,
generates new cells, removes dead skin cells, and softens and
soothes skin. It is used in many products from face creams and
body lotions to bath salts and bath bombs.
Spearmint essential oil (Mentha spicata): Extracted from spearmint
leaves, this essential oil contains menthol, anti-inflammatories,
antifungals, antioxidants, bioflavonoids, and other vitamins and
nutrients. It is highly concentrated and can irritate skin and eyes, so
it is generally used in very small amounts in lotions, soaps, massage
oils, and body scrubs. Its cooling effect makes it useful in pain-
relieving salves and lotions.
Spearmint hydrosol (Mentha spicata): Spearmint hydrosol has all the
benefits of the essential oil but is nonirritating. It is often used in
acne toners and cleansers as well as antiaging cleansers, as it helps
stimulate skin. Because it is nonirritating, the hydrosol can be
effectively used in the treatment of psoriasis.
Spirulina (Arthrospira platensis): This blue-green algae found in oceans
throughout the world is commonly used internally as a supplement.
 It is anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and is packed with protein, vitamin
B12, vitamin A, iron, and essential fatty acids. Since it lacks cell
walls, its nutrients are easily accessed by skin. It increases skin
hydration and leaves a breathable protective barrier. It also helps
balance oil production. It is a widely used ingredient in skin care
products of all kinds.
Squalane: Naturally produced in sebum, squalane lubricates skin, but
body levels begin to decline rapidly from our early twenties. It is a
highly effective emollient and a powerful antioxidant that prevents
damage from UV rays, increases cellular turnover, promotes
collagen strength, prevents age spots, and is antibacterial,
nongreasy, easily absorbed, and good for all skin types. It can be
obtained from oils such as olive and amaranth.
St. John’s wort extract (Hypericum perforatum L.): The plant is grown
worldwide for medicinal properties, for its oil, and also for its
flowers. Topically, this extract is used for its antibacterial, anti-
inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Due to its mood-
enhancing properties it is added to bath soaks aimed at calming
and relieving stress. The extract is also used in small quantities in
face creams and serums.
St. John’s wort oil (Hypericum perforatum L.): This oil is extracted from
the flowers, which impart a beautiful red color, and is generally
very expensive. It is used to calm sensitive, red, irritated skin,
making it a wonderful addition to acne products. It is also used to
treat eczema and severely dry skin.
Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica): These leaves, flowers, and roots are
used in extracts for skin and hair. It is antioxidant, anti-
inflammatory, and mineral rich, making it beneficial in products
geared toward antiaging. It protects against cellular and UV
damage, slowing wrinkles and fine lines. It has also been shown to
be effective in wound healing.
Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa): Strawberries are grown worldwide for
 their fruit, which contain flavonoids, vitamin C, folic acid, and
potassium. The fresh pulp and juice as well as powdered
strawberries are used in skin care products. Strawberries are anti-
inflammatory and slightly astringent; they help loosen dead skin
cells, protect skin from environmental damage, and brighten skin.
They’re primarily used in antiaging products such as face creams,
face masks, and cleansers.
Strawberry seed oil (Fragaria ananassa): Made by a cold process that
does not include refinement, this very pure oil has antibacterial
and antioxidant properties and an intense ability to condition,
moisturize, and help skin stay hydrated. It is very soothing, making
it suitable for all types of skin, including sensitive. It is readily
absorbed and can be used undiluted but is generally combined
with other oils. Most beneficial for acne-prone and aging skin, it is
used in face creams, oils, and massage oils.
Sugandha bala essential oil (Pavonia odorata): Extracted from the
rhizomes of a perennial herb native to India, Pakistan, Burma, Sri
Lanka, and Africa, the essential oil has antibacterial, antiviral, and
antifungal properties. It is used in skin care targeting acne as well
as in massage oils, deodorants, hand sanitizers, and foot creams.
Sugandha bala extract (Pavonia odorata): The extract is anti-
inflammatory, antiviral, and antibacterial. It is mainly used for its
anti-inflammatory benefits in bath soaks and pain-relieving cream
as well as in antiaging face care.
Sugar, raw (Saccharum officinarum): Although considered much
healthier than processed sugar, raw sugar is processed in the same
manner until the final stages. This leaves a gentle coating of
molasses on the raw sugar. It has the same attributes for skin care
as white cane sugar with an additional mineral boost from the
molasses.
Sugar, white cane (Saccharum officinarum): The AHAs in white sugar
rejuvenate and resurface skin, remove dead skin cells, and help
 maintain moisture. High levels of AHAs can be irritating and cause
redness and sensitivity in some types of skin. Sugar granules are
used for body and face exfoliants. They are square and have sharp
edges, but when they’re mixed with water and applied to skin the
edges soften, preventing microdermabrasions or tears. Sugar
exfoliants should be avoided on acne-prone skin.
Sugar, white cane juice (Saccharum officinarum): Extracted from the
sugarcane plant, the juice is a concentrated, less-processed form of
sugar granules. Being liquid, it can be added to different products
such as cleansers, face masks, creams, and serums. It is often used
as a gentle option to impart AHAs.
Sulfates: These comprise a large group of ingredients used in products
primarily for their ability to lather and bubble. They are detergents
that can irritate skin.
Sunflower seed oil (Helianthus annuus): Extracted by either cold or
heat methods, the oil is squeezed from the hulled seeds. Warm-
pressed seeds result in better yields. Sunflower seed oil contains
essential fatty acids and linoleic acid and improves cell
regeneration. It also moisturizes, and is noncomedogenic and anti-
inflammatory.
Sunflower seed wax (Helianthus annuus): The sunflower seed wax is
obtained from the winterization of sunflower seed oil.
Winterization means removing the higher melting point parts, such
as waxes. It is used as a natural thickening agent, for viscosity, and
to give stability, smoothness, solidity, and a creamy texture to
products such as lipsticks, creams, lip balms, bar lotions, and color
cosmetics.
Sunscreen chemicals: Some chemicals such as oxybenzone,
homosalate, octinoxate (octylmethoxycinnamate), octisalate, and
octocrylene cause hormone disruption, skin allergies, and other
issues. Some have transdermal penetration and have been found in
mothers’ milk. The two with the most negative research results are
 oxybenzone and octinoxate.
Surfactant: These controversial ingredients are lathering and foaming
agents. They’re used to break down oils and fats, enabling them to
be cleansed from skin. Getting luscious lather naturally is difficult.
Often, labels stating natural surfactants will add “derived from
coconut/sugar or . . .” which sounds good, but neither coconut nor
sugar lather when added to water. The result of the original
derivative is far from either coconut or sugar.
Syzygium cumini bark extract: With its fatty acid, flavonoid, and tannin
content, the extract is used in facial toners and cleansers as a
gentle and mild astringent that helps remove oils and debris and is
suitable for sensitive skin.
Syzygium cumini essential oil: The essential oil contains essential fatty
acids and antioxidants. Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, it is
used in products treating acne and signs of aging, and in balms
targeting psoriasis and eczema.
Syzygium cumini flower: Also known as Java plum, this plant is in the
myrtle family and native to the tropics. Its flowers are rich in
flavonoids and antioxidants. It is an extremely soothing and
calming ingredient used to help reduce redness and in the
treatment of psoriasis, eczema, and rosacea.
Syzygium cumini fruit: The fruit is not only a natural source of
antioxidants, it also contains anthocyanins, flavonoids, amino acids,
calcium, natural fruit sugar, mineral salts, and vitamin C. The
extract from the fruit is used in facial cleansers, face masks, and
antiaging and hydrating face creams.
Syzygium cumini leaves: Rich in bioflavonoids and antioxidants, the
leaves are used in products targeting aging and to protect against
free radical damage.
Syzygium cumini root: The root is rich in flavonoids and often mixed
with other parts of the plant to increase potency in antiaging skin
 care products.

Tabernaemontana divaricata L.: Also known as pinwheel flower or

crepe jasmine, this evergreen shrub native to India has been shown
to have antibacterial, antiviral, and antioxidant properties. It is
being added to skin care products targeting aging and acne.
Table salt: Typically mined from underground salt deposits, table salt
is heavily processed to eliminate minerals and usually contains an
additive to prevent clumping. Most table salt also has added iodine.
Traditionally, table salt is not used in skin care although it is less
expensive than sea salt, so some companies use it as an alternative
in bath soaks and body scrubs.
Talcum powder: A naturally occurring mineral, talcum powder has
long been used as baby powder and as an absorbent in makeup
such as eye shadow, blushes, and foundation. Talc itself is not a
harmful substance, but it is often contaminated with asbestos, a
known carcinogen.
Tamanu oil (Calophyllum inophyllum): Produced from the seed of the
tropical tamanu tree, the oil has extremely high fatty acid content
and antioxidant, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and
antiviral properties. It easily penetrates all layers of skin, helps skin
regenerate, and visibly reduces blemishes and scarring. For face
care, it is generally recommended to dilute it.
Tamarillo (Cyphomandra betaceae): The edible fruit is filled with
powerful antioxidants and flavonoids and is used to protect
collagen, protect skin against environmental stressors, reduce the
appearance of wrinkles, and exfoliate dead skin cells. It is most
often found in extract form and added to face creams and serums,
 although powder made from the fruit and seeds is used as an
exfoliant.
Tarragon essential oil (Artemisia dracunculus): Tarragon is a perennial
herb in the sunflower family. Although anti-inflammatory and
antiviral, the essential oil is not often used in skin care as it can
cause sensitivity and contains some phytochemicals that may be
carcinogenic. It is not recommended for DIYers.
Tartaric acid: This alpha hydroxy acid can be made synthetically or
from grapes. The synthetic form is the most commonly used form in
skin care. It is an effective exfoliant and may be tolerated more
easily than glycolic, lactic, and malic acids, despite its larger
molecule size.
Tea tree essential oil (Melaleuca alternifolia): Extracted from the
leaves of a tree native to Australia, the essential oil contains
antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral compounds, making it
popular for natural deodorants and products combating blemishes,
athlete’s foot, nail fungus, and dandruff. Several studies support its
ability to kill viruses, making it beneficial in natural hand sanitizers.
Tea tree hydrosol (Melaleuca alternifolia): The hydrosol reduces the
appearance of breakouts and helps keep them at bay, visibly
reduces redness and inflammation, minimizes pore size, reduces
excessive oil, and visibly tightens skin. It contains the same
properties as the essential oil in a less concentrated, less strongly
aromatic, and noncaustic form. It can often replace water in
formulations to add the benefits of tea tree. It can be used alone,
undiluted, as a facial toner or hydrating mist.
TEA-lauryl sulfate: This is a biodegradable detergent and surfactant
with high foaming capabilities. Research has shown it to be slightly
toxic in rats and a significant skin irritant although it is deemed
safe for use in cosmetics in lower concentrations. However, often
people have sensitivities to detergents and shampoos containing
the substance.
Temu kunci (Boesenbergia pandurata Roxb.): The rhizome of this
Indonesian plant contains flavonoids and antifungal, antibacterial,
and antioxidant properties. Traditionally, it has been used in the
treatment of many diseases. Its powerful components have made it
popular in antiaging and acne products, plus in foot bombs and nail
soaks to treat fungus.
Temulawak extract (Curcuma xanthorrhiza Roxb.): Also known as
Japanese turmeric, this plant is in the ginger family. The extract is
antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory. There’s some
research suggesting it may help lighten skin, however it is mostly
used in the treatment of acne and generally found in products such
as face creams, cleansers, face oils, and face serums.
Temulawak oil (Curcuma xanthorrhiza Roxb.): The oil is a concentrated
form of temulawak and has all the attributes of the extract but can
be used for different applications. It’s used in very small
percentages and normally as spot treatments for acne, blackheads,
and pimples.
Thyme cold-pressed oil (Thymus vulgaris): Generally infused in another
oil, thyme oil is similar to the extract and contains the same
benefits in a less caustic form. It has essential fatty acids and is
used to treat acne, athlete’s foot, and skin infections.
Thyme essential oil (Thymus vulgaris): This essential oil is one of the
strongest antioxidants and has been used medicinally since ancient
times. It is antifungal, antibacterial, and antiseptic and used to treat
acne, infections, fungal infections, eczema, and congested pores. It
is also added to hand sanitizers.
Thyme extract (Thymus vulgaris): Preliminary research suggests that
thyme extract is more effective at killing the bacteria that causes
acne than benzoyl peroxide, which has led to its inclusion in
products for the treatment of acne.
Titanium dioxide: This naturally occurring oxide of titanium is a white
fine powder that is used in sunscreens and cosmetics as a colorant;
 it is also used in soapmaking.
Tolu balsam essential oil (Balsamum tolutanum): Made from the resin
of the Myroxylon tree native to South America, the essential oil has
a lovely warm aroma often used in perfumes and essential oil
blends. The blends are added to creams, soaps, shampoos, and face
care products. It is often found in massage oils for relieving muscle
tension and relaxation. It is also used for eczema, acne, rashes, and
infections.
Toluene: This is a solvent and paint thinner that research has shown to
be a neurotoxin. It inhibits breathing, may cause developmental
damage to a fetus, negatively impacts the immune system, and is
potentially linked to blood cancer.
Tomar seed essential oil (Zanthoxylum armatum): Made from seeds of
a tree native to China and India, the essential oil has a light floral
scent that is added to perfumes and essential oil blends. It is an
antiseptic, disinfectant, and deodorant used in soaps, hand
sanitizers, and facial toners.
Tomato seed oil: This oil is relatively new in cosmetics but is packed
with antioxidants that can benefit mature skin by alleviating
environmental damage. It can enhance and improve skin tone,
texture, and softness.
Tribehenin wax: This very soft wax is often combined with harder
waxes to achieve the desired texture, viscosity, and firmness in
products. It also adds gloss to lip balms, lipsticks, and foundations.
Triclosan: Triclosan is a broad-spectrum antibacterial used in
antibacterial soaps, body washes, cosmetics, and toothpaste.
Exposure to triclosan can decrease thyroid hormone levels and
contribute to forming bacteria-resistant antibiotics. According to
the FDA, there’s not enough data to assess the level of risk triclosan
poses, although ongoing studies, monitored by the FDA, are looking
at the potential of skin cancer after long-term exposure.
Trideth-3: This is an emulsifier in liquid form as opposed to wax and
other semisolid emulsifiers. It is found in many products from floor
cleaners and air fresheners to nail polish, face creams, body
washes, and lotions. It is considered safe for use in the cosmetics
industry, although there is little research on its safety.
Triethanolamine (TEA): Made from a reaction of ammonia with
ethylene oxide (a known carcinogen), TEA is a skin irritant for some
people and can cause burning, redness, and itching. Much
commercial TEA is a combination of 85% TEA and 15% DEA
(diethanolamine, which has been linked to some types of cancer). It
is used in skin care to balance pH and as an emulsifier.
Triisostearyl citrate: A citric acid compound that can be derived from a
plant or animal source, it is used as a skin conditioner and
emollient.
Triterpenes: These naturally occur in plants and are one of the most
powerful anti-inflammatories as well as being antiviral and
antibacterial. They are used in the treatment of cancer and
internally to help with insomnia, depression, anxiety, and
distraction. Their importance in skin care comes from their
profound anti-inflammatory properties, which are key for
antiaging, and their antibacterial and antiviral properties for the
treatment of acne and psoriasis.
Tuberose essential oil (Polianthes tuberosa): The essential oil is very
expensive and usually used in high-end perfumes for its floral
scent. It is said to ease depression, stress, and anxiety and promote
mental clarity.
Tuberose extract (Polianthes tuberosa): From a perennial plant related
to the agaves, the extract is filled with polysaccharides and
protects against environmental damage, eliminates pore
congestion, resurfaces skin, and prevents dehydration. It also has
antiviral and antibacterial properties. It is generally used for
mature and dehydrated skin.
Tuberose hydrosol (Polianthes tuberosa): The hydrosol has all the
benefits of the essential oil in a less concentrated form. It is also a
less expensive way to impart some of the aroma. It can be used
alone as a toner or to replace water in formulations to increase
efficacy and impart scent.
Tuberose wax (Polianthes tuberosa): The wax is a highly desirable
addition to skin care not only because of its lovely scent but also
for the calming, softening, and smoothing effect it has on skin. It
adds viscosity, texture, and richness to face serums and face
creams.
Tucuma butter (Astrocaryum tucuma): Extracted from the fruit of a tree
native to Brazil, this is a real butter with no added ingredients. It is
filled with antioxidants, vitamin A, essential fatty acids, and
minerals. It protects skin from environmental damage and stress,
helps improve skin elasticity, generates skin cells, and reduces the
appearance of wrinkles. It provides a profound moisture boost and
is added to body creams, body lotions, and body butters for
antiaging and skin protection. It is also used in lip balms, soaps, and
face creams.
Tulsi essential oil (Ocimum tenuiflorum): Also known as holy basil, tulsi
is native to Asia and highly praised for its medicinal uses in
Ayurvedic medicine. The essential oil calms nerves, protects against
toxins and infections and is antibacterial, antiviral, anti-
inflammatory, analgesic, and filled with antioxidants. While it has a
lot of topical attributes it can be slightly irritating.
Tulsi extract (Ocimum tenuiflorum): The extract is made from the
leaves and extracted in alcohol, oil, or a solvent. It is antibacterial,
antiviral, and antifungal and is used to treat acne, athlete’s foot,
dandruff, and psoriasis.
Tulsi hydrosol (Ocimum tenuiflorum): The hydrosol has the attributes
of the essential oil in a less caustic form and can be used undiluted
to treat acne, aging, congested skin, and for detoxing and in room
 and body sprays for headaches, stress, and anxiety.
Turmeric extract (Curcuma longa): The antioxidant, antimicrobial, and
anti-inflammatory properties are extracted from the root. Most of
the benefits come from curcumin, a powerful antioxidant that
visibly diminishes dark spots, blemishes, scars, and inflammation.
Turmeric helps soften and smooth skin. It facilitates wound healing,
helps build and protect collagen, and helps control psoriasis. Pure
curcumin is available for use in skin care but is not a replacement
for turmeric extract. While the extract does not have the same
concentration as pure curcumin, it has other benefits and is often
used in conjunction. Additionally, pure curcumin is highly
pigmented and can discolor products.
Turmeric oil (Curcuma longa): Extracted from the roots, the oil has a
beautiful yellow color. Some oils are marketed as pure but are cut
with other carrier oils, so read the label carefully; pure turmeric oil
will be strongly yellow. While the oil has the same benefit profile as
turmeric tincture, it is much more concentrated.
Turmeric tincture (Curcuma longa): Extracted in different carriers such
as alcohol, propylene glycol, glycerin, and vegetable oil, the
tincture has the same beneficial properties as pure turmeric oil but
is less potent.

Ucuuba butter (Virola surinamensis [Myristicaceae ]): Extracted from

the fruit of an Amazonian tree, this is a pure butter that imparts its
golden-brown color to products. The anti-inflammatory and
antiseptic properties make it beneficial in the treatment of acne,
eczema, and dehydrated skin, and its exceptionally high levels of
essential fatty acids make it an excellent moisturizer for mature
and aging skin. It is used in lotions, body creams, body butters, hard
 bar lotions, soaps, and face creams.

Valerian root essential oil (Valeriana officinalis): Used for its calming,
sleep-inducing aroma as well as to help prevent wrinkles and to
alleviate eczema, the essential oil is for topical use only, unlike the
extract.
Valerian root extract (Valeriana officinalis): From a perennial plant
native to Europe and Asia traditionally used medicinally as a
sedative and sleep aid, valerian root extract is mildly astringent
and used in toners and face cleansers. The extract is made through
gentle heat extraction and is in alcohol, a chemical solvent, or oil.
Vanilla absolute (Vanilla planifolia): While something may be labeled
as vanilla essential oil, the delicate aroma compounds in vanilla
cannot be separated by water (through steam distillation), which is
how an essential oil is generally extracted. Vanilla absolute is
made by using a solvent such as ethanol to extract the aroma.
Vanilla has strong antioxidant, antibacterial, and stress-relieving
properties. It is also used for psoriasis, depression, and as an
aphrodisiac. The absolute is extremely expensive and generally
used in small amounts as part of the scent profile of a product.
Vanilla bean extract (Vanilla planifolia): The bean extract is made by
macerating vanilla beans in alcohol. It has some of the same
benefits as the absolute but is less expensive and more readily
available. Its dark brown color can discolor products, so it is
generally used in small amounts to reduce inflammation and
irritation, soothe, calm, protect, and reduce signs of aging.
Vanilla flavor (Vanilla planifolia): Vanilla is one of the most popular
scents in skin care products, but the absolute is extremely
 expensive, which leaves the fragrance oil as one of the only
alternatives to get the aroma into products. The only issue with the
flavor is the carrier. The most common carriers are propylene
glycol and canola oil. The flavor doesn’t have any of the beneficial
properties of vanilla and is used solely for scent.
Vanilla oil (Vanilla planifolia): Vanilla beans are macerated in oil for
an extended period to extract both the scent and the nutrient
profile. It can replace a non-oil-based extract in oil applications
where an emulsifier is not used.
Vervain essential oil (Verbena officinalis): Extracted from a perennial
flowering plant, the essential oil helps decongest pores, clear acne,
reduce excess oil, and is an antiseptic and emollient.
Vervain extract (Verbena officinalis): Vervain extract contains anti-
inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It alleviates pain, helps
prevent tissue damage, and promotes new cell growth. It is used in
body creams and salves for joint and muscle aches and pains as
well as in skin care products targeting premature aging.
Vetiver essential oil (Vetiveria zizanioides): Made from the roots of a
perennial grass, the essential oil is expensive and highly regarded
for perfume and essential oil blends for skin care body products. It
is anti-inflammatory and antiseptic; helps generate new skin cells;
accelerates wound healing; relieves muscle pain, nervousness,
shock, and insomnia; and is a calming nerve tonic.
Vetiver hydrosol (Vetiveria zizanioides): The hydrosol is very rare but
highly regarded as it imparts all the attributes of the essential oil
and can be used undiluted, which makes it more accessible for face
creams and serums.
Viola hondoensis W. Becker and H. Boissieu (Violaceae): This is used
for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Studies have
shown it to have a positive effect in reducing signs of aging and
preventing inflammation, which is one of the causes of skin aging. It
inhibits the signs of wrinkles and fine lines while promoting healthy
 collagen.
Violet absolute (Viola odorata): The absolute has all the properties of
violet essential oil but is extracted through a chemical extraction
rather than steam distillation. It is more cost effective and can
replace the essential oil in all the same applications.
Violet essential oil (Viola odorata): Extracted from the leaves and
flowers, the essential oil has the properties and attributes of both.
Topically it is good for dry, itchy, irritated, and red skin. It has
antiseptic properties and helps visibly reduce pore size. It is an
extremely expensive essential oil, making it rarely used or only in
small amounts.
Violet flower extract (Viola odorata): The flower extract is anti-
inflammatory and rich in antioxidants, peptides, and salicylic acid
(see beta hydroxy acid). It is used topically to treat pain and acne,
decongest pores, prevent visible signs of aging, and protect skin
from environmental stress.
Violet hydrosol (Viola odorata): The hydrosol has all the benefits of the
essential oil in a less concentrated, noncaustic form that can be
used undiluted. It is more cost effective than the essential oil or
absolute, making it accessible for imparting the scent and
properties to toners targeting acne, face creams, face serums, and
body lotions.
Violet leaf extract (Viola odorata): The leaf extract can be used alone
or in a blend with the flower. It has anti-inflammatory and
antioxidant properties and is used to promote healthy skin and
pores, revitalize skin, and restore luster.
Violet wax (Viola odorata): The wax is used for its beautiful aroma and
calming, soothing, anti-inflammatory, cleansing, and protecting
benefits. It’s an emulsifier and thickening agent used for viscosity
and creamy texture in products ranging from lip balms and hard
lotion bars to face serums and creams.
Vitamin A: There are two types of vitamin A, retinoids and carotenoids.
Both convert to retinol, which increases new cell production and is
generally used in face creams to treat acne and reduce wrinkles.
Carotenoids are high in antioxidants and prevent damage from UV
rays and other environmental stressors and inhibit premature
aging. Vitamin A comes in many different forms that differ in
strength and how skin recognizes and metabolizes them. All
vitamin A causes photosensitivity, so sun avoidance is
recommended when using topical vitamin A creams.
Vitamin B3 (niacinamide): Vitamin B3 is common in skin care for its
soothing abilities with acne-prone skin, in the treatment of
hyperpigmentation, sun-damaged skin, and to reduce fine lines and
wrinkles and increase elasticity.
Vitamin B5 (panthenol): This is a common ingredient used in hair care,
to help skin retain moisture, as a moisturizer, and to help maintain
a protective and conditioning barrier on skin. It is generally not
effective enough to be used alone but works in conjunction with
other compatible active ingredients.
Vitamin C: One of the most commonly used active ingredients in skin
care, this powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory protects
against environmental stressors and visibly reduces signs of aging
and damage caused by free radicals. Mature or sun-damaged skin
has lower levels of vitamin C, the loss of which is associated with
accelerated aging, poor wound healing, and dehydration. Vitamin C
also promotes cellular turnover, healthy collagen, production of
skin’s natural barrier lipids, and skin elasticity and tone.
Maintaining healthy levels wards off wrinkles and fine lines while
keeping skin healthy. There are many different types of vitamin C,
both synthetic and natural.
Vitamin D: Although most vitamin D is synthesized naturally in the
body from exposure to the sun, an increasing number of people
take internal supplements of this vitamin due to deficiency. Low
levels increase dehydration, eczema, and psoriasis. It is an anti-
 inflammatory, making it particularly beneficial in the treatment of
acne and psoriasis.
Vitamin E: Because vitamin E is soluble in oil, it has extensive
transdermal penetration. Studies have shown that vitamin E can
help keep both the fluid and moisture content of skin balanced as
well as protect skin from environmental stress. Vitamin E is
generally combined with other compatible antioxidants to make a
complete and powerful antioxidant profile that protects skin from
signs of damage caused by free radicals. There are different forms
of vitamin E, but those generally used in skin care are alpha-
tocopherol or tocopherol acetate.
Volcanic ash: This very fine powder is made from the rock and mineral
particulates expelled from a volcanic explosion. While harmful
when inhaled, the ash is used for its ability to purge and purify, its
rich mineral profile, and as a natural exfoliant. It is traditionally
used in spas to reduce cellulite, blemishes, and wrinkles; relieve
eczema and psoriasis; and calm red, irritated skin and rashes. The
ash is rich in sulfur, a natural antibacterial often used to treat skin
ailments. It is increasingly found in face care products targeting
acne or congested pores, and in bath products for cellulite,
psoriasis, and detoxification, and in soaps.

Walnut leaf extract (Nucis juglandis): This extract is a powerful anti-

inflammatory used in bath soaks to reduce swelling and in salves to
treat wounds. It is also used for sunburn, itchy skin, rashes, dandruff,
and acne.
Walnut meat (Nucis juglandis): The meat of the walnut is a popular
superfood with substantial health benefits. High in vitamin C, the
meat contains alpha lipoic acid, antioxidants, anti-inflammatories,
 and high levels of vitamins and minerals. Topically, for skin care it
is finely ground for gentle, nutrient-charged facial exfoliants.
Walnut oil (Nucis juglandis): Generally cold-pressed from the meat of
the walnut, the oil has the same nutrient profile as the meat in a
more concentrated form. The oil is also more versatile and
primarily used in face oils, creams, and serums, although it has a
shorter shelf life, sometimes just 6 to 12 months.
Walnut shell (Nucis juglandis): Ground to a fine powder, the outer shell
is commonly added to facial cleansers as an exfoliant. Walnut
shells cannot dissolve in water, so no matter how finely ground
they will never be completely spherical, which means the hard, tiny
particles can cause microdermabrasions.
Warm adobe clay (illite): Illite clays are a group of minerals with a very
similar structure to mica, although they contain more water and
less potassium. Each color clay has a slightly different mineral and
active component. Illite clays can be confusing as different
manufacturers market them using different names. Pay close
attention to whether it’s an illite and the color, which provides
information about which clay it is. Warm adobe clay contains
minerals that visibly relieve the appearance of stress by melting
muscular tension. The high silicon content in warm adobe clay
gives it its firming, toning, and even texture–restoring qualities. It
has a high absorption capacity, making it great for congested pores
and oily skin.
Water: This is the most common ingredient in skin care, although many
natural skin care companies are formulating what they can without
water as it reduces the need for preservation systems. Face creams,
lotions, cleansers, and other skin and body care products can
contain up to 80% water, which makes the water used a powerful
component. To increase the efficacy and purity of a product,
companies are replacing all or part of the water with hydrosols,
coconut water, maple water, or nut milks. There are several types
of water besides tap water listed on labels, and since water is such
 a large percentage of a product, the source of the water is key to
the purity of the finished product.
Watermelon extract (Citrullus lanatus): Extracted from the pulp and
the rind (which contains amino acids) watermelon extract is filled
with vitamins and nutrients and has a strong antioxidant and anti-
inflammatory profile. It has the ability to promote new cell growth
and is used in products targeting the effects of aging, sun damage,
and dehydration.
Watermelon powder (Citrullus lanatus): Made from the pulp, the
powder is a concentrated form of all the vitamins and nutrients in
watermelon. Powders are becoming more popular in cosmetics as
formulating without water eliminates the need for preservatives.
Powdered watermelon is used in powdered face masks and
exfoliants as well as in soapmaking, lotions, and creams.
Watermelon seed oil (Citrullus lanatus): Watermelon seeds are first
dried to lower their water content, then the oil is extracted through
cold process or solvent extraction. The finished oil is filled with
antioxidants. It is emollient, detoxifying, anti-inflammatory, and
antiaging. Because it is so stable and has such a long shelf life, it
can be used as a carrier oil. It is wonderful for oily skin as it reduces
oil production and unclogs pores. It also protects skin against
environmental damage and helps expel toxins.
Waxes: Natural and synthetic waxes are used in skin care to seal in and
protect hydration, to help form a protective barrier on skin, as an
emollient and thickening agent, for viscosity and consistency, and
to provide stability. They’re harder than other types of fats and oils
used in products so can enable a product to be semisolid, such as a
lip balm or bar lotion, and yet still be hydrating and melt on skin
when applied.
Wheat germ oil: Extracted from the germ of the wheat kernel, the oil
has a very high vitamin E content, vitamins A and D, amino acids,
lecithin, and minerals. It is unstable and has a short shelf life. It is a
 fairly lightweight oil and when used in skin care products it helps
all the ingredients have better transdermal penetration. It is
primarily used in high-end face care to prevent, retard, and reverse
fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of aging.
Whey: The liquid part of milk that separates during the cheese making
process, whey contains a wide range of quickly absorbed amino
acids along with other vital nutrients. Amino acids are the building
blocks of healthy collagen. Studies show whey’s effectiveness at
lightening skin and tackling acne.
White kaolin clay: Also called China clay, this very fine soft powder
contains a high level of the mineral kaolinite, which is rich in silica.
Kaolin clay is one of the gentlest clays and perfect for sensitive and
dry skin. Its absorption capacity is lower than most clays, which
gives it the ability to soften and mildly exfoliate skin with its gentle
particles.
White tea (Camellia sinensis): White tea comes from young, minimally
processed leaves that contain potent antioxidants. It is often used
to replace water in formulations to increase efficacy, although the
tea and extract are also used together to supercharge the benefits
of face creams and serums.
White tea extract (Camellia sinensis): The extract comes either
powdered or in oil, solvents, or alcohol and is added to antiaging
skin care products.
White willow bark (Salix alba): From a deciduous tree native to Europe
and Asia, white willow bark’s main active ingredient is salicin (an
analgesic), but it also contains antioxidants. The bark is distilled
and made into a tincture or sometimes extracted into a carrier oil
or alcohol. Research has shown salicin’s efficacy at improving
wrinkles and roughness, decreasing pore size, and restoring luster,
vibrancy, and firmness when applied topically. It is also anti-
inflammatory and antibacterial and is widely used as an acne
treatment.
Wild yam extract (Dioscorea villosa): Wild yam is filled with saponins,
which are anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, and
antioxidant. They’re also believed to be effective at evening skin
pigmentation. The extract is used to improve skin’s elasticity;
prevent sagging skin; combat hyperpigmentation; soothe and calm
irritated, red, and sensitive skin; bring back luster and glow to dull
skin, and promote healthy collagen and new collagen production.
Wine: All parts of the grape are used in skin care: leaf extract, seed
extract, seed oil, and the skins. Although wine itself is also used, red
wine grape peel is primarily used for its resveratrol content. There
is also wine powder, which is becoming extremely popular in the
natural skin care sector as it can be made into powdered masks
and exfoliants and eliminate the need for preservatives. Wine is
also used in soapmaking.
Wintergreen essential oil (Gaultheria procumbens): Extracted from the
leaves of an evergreen shrub, the essential oil has a high
percentage of methyl salicylate, which is related to aspirin and
therefore has analgesic properties. It is added to lotions and salves
for pain relief, soaps, massage oils, and headache blends. It is also
used for scenting soaps and skin care products.
Wintergreen hydrosol (Gaultheria procumbens): The hydrosol has all
the benefits of the essential oil in a less caustic form and can
replace water in formulations to increase efficacy. The hydrosol is
used undiluted in body mists to increase energy and vitality and
alleviate pain, in facial cleansers to increase circulation, in toners
for acne-prone skin, and in lotions for pain relief.
Witch hazel bark (Hamamelis virginiana): Native Americans boiled the
bark and used it to treat skin ailments. Today it is often used to
make tinctures or added to facial toners and cleansers for its mild
astringent properties.
Witch hazel hydrosol (Hamamelis virginiana): This potent antioxidant
and natural astringent reduces signs of redness and irritation and
 makes skin appear tighter, even toned, and more youthful.
Witch hazel leaf (Hamamelis virginiana): Clinical studies have shown
promising results in the treatment of eczema. The leaf, which can
be powdered, dried and cut, or extracted, is increasingly appearing
in lotions, creams, and salves targeting severe dryness, cracked
skin, and eczema. It is a powerful anti-inflammatory and
antibacterial and has been found to decrease breakouts and be
beneficial in treating acne. It is also used for itching, rashes, stings,
and insect bites.

Ximenia Americana seed oil: Made by a cold-press process or refined,

the oil comes from the seeds of a tree native to Africa. It is used in
skin care to help balance oil production and aid lubrication as well
as provide softness, suppleness, and hydration to dry skin. It has
antiaging and skin cell regeneration benefits.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium): Native to Europe, North America, and

Asia, yarrow has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It
accelerates wound healing, which, along with its other properties,
makes it a powerful ingredient in the treatment of acne. It is also
added to toners and cleansers for its mild astringency.
Yarrow essential oil (Achillea millefolium): The essential oil is used for
acne, wounds, burns, eczema, rashes, scars, and oily skin. It is fairly
expensive so when used for its aroma it’s generally a small part of a
larger scent blend. It is added to skin care products targeting acne,
 oily skin, and dehydrated skin and added to bath soaks for rashes
and eczema.
Yarrow hydrosol (Achillea millefolium): The hydrosol has all the
properties of the essential oil in a less concentrated form that can
be used undiluted or to replace water in formulations to increase
efficacy. It is a balancing oil used in toners, cleansers, and face
serums to restore, revitalize, and rebalance skin health.
Yellow dock root extract (Rumex crispus): From a perennial flowering
plant native to Europe and Asia, yellow dock is filled with
phytochemicals, potent antioxidants, and flavonoids. The leaf is
also sometimes used although the root has more powerful
antioxidant properties. The extract is used in antiaging face creams
and serums. It protects skin against environmental damage,
maintains healthy collagen, and visibly reduces fine lines and
wrinkles.
Yellow kaolin clay: Slightly more absorbent then white clay, yellow
kaolin clay is also exfoliating and gentle enough for sensitive skin.
It has high levels of titanium, potassium, and silica that together
help produce collagen. It is circulation-boosting and used in
antiaging and brightening masks and body powders, facial
exfoliants, and in soaps as a natural colorant.
Ylang-ylang essential oil (Cananga odorata): From a tree native to
Madagascar, Indonesia, and the Philippines, the essential oil is used
aromatherapeutically and in essential oil scent blends to alleviate
anxiety, stress, tension, and to lift self-esteem. Topically it can be
used on both dry and oily skin.
Ylang-ylang hydrosol (Cananga odorata): The hydrosol has all the
benefits of the essential oil in a less concentrated form and can be
used undiluted or to replace water in formulations to increase
efficacy and impart scent. It is used in toners, face cleansers, face
creams, and body lotions to treat acne, dermatitis, and eczema,
balance oil production, and for general skin care.
Yogurt: A fermented dairy product, yogurt contains beneficial
probiotics that may help with both acne and antiaging. Yogurt is
also filled with proteins, the building blocks of healthy collagen. In
skin care, full-fat yogurt is used for the benefits the fatty acids
provide. It tones and plumps skin and can be used fresh in face care
products, body lotions, and soap. Powdered yogurt is also
commonly used.
Yuzu essential oil (Citrus junos): Made from the fruit peel, the essential
oil scent is popular for scenting skin care and bath products.
Topically, it’s used in skin care products targeting aging and to
increase circulation and restore vitality, and in products such as
bath soaks and salves to boost immunity.
Yuzu fruit/juice (Citrus junos): Often referred to as Japanese grapefruit,
yuzu juice, peel, and seeds are traditionally used medicinally. The
juice is added to bath products to induce relaxation and relieve
pain and in face care products for its high profile of citric, tartaric,
and ascorbic acids. It has the highest level of vitamin C of all yuzu
components and is said to have one of the highest levels of all
citrus. It smoothes skin texture, eliminates dead skin cells, and
protects collagen.
Yuzu hydrosol (Citrus junos): The hydrosol contains all the benefits of
the essential oil in a less caustic form that can be used undiluted or
to replace water in a formulation to increase efficacy and impart
aroma. Yuzu hydrosol is used for all skin types in everything from
face creams to body lotions.
Yuzu peel (Citrus junos): A traditional remedy for dry skin in Japan is a
soak in the tub with a dozen yuzus floating in it. The active
ingredients in the peel infuse the water and help relieve symptoms.
The peel contains all the attributes of the essential oil as well as a
higher concentration of bioflavonoids. It can be used either as an
extract or powdered. The powdered peel is used in face masks and
facial exfoliants geared toward antiaging.
Yuzu seed extract (Citrus junos): Used in cosmetics for whitening and
smoothing, the seed extract also helps prevent and reverse
pigmentation caused by age, hormonal changes, and exposure to
UV light by increasing cell turnover, which decreases with age. It
also helps build healthy collagen. The extract can be in alcohol,
chemical solvent, or in water and glycerin.
Yuzu seed oil (Citrus junos): Extracted and refined from the seeds, the
antioxidant-filled seed oil is used to treat dermatitis, excessively
dry and dehydrated skin, itchy skin, psoriasis, and eczema.

Zinc oxide: Occasionally found in food but more commonly in lotions,

makeup, sunscreens, baby powders, athlete’s foot products, and
other cosmetic industry standards, zinc oxide is used as a colorant,
filler, bulking agent, and sunscreen. Non-nanoparticle zinc does not
penetrate as profoundly into the skin and is not irritating.
Zinc sulfite: Commonly found as nutritional supplements but also
often used in skin care, there is little research to substantiate the
claims of its efficacy at treating actinic keratosis lesions, acne,
aging, and dandruff. It is astringent and also stabilizes emulsions.
 PART FOUR

4 DIY Skin Care

Recipes
Our own kitchen cupboards can be a powerful resource for
maintaining beautiful, healthy skin. DIY skin care also gives
you the opportunity to have complete control over what you
put on your skin. However, there are many recipes available
that are not only ineffective but also actually create skin
issues. For example, many DIY recipes use cornstarch, a
natural form of sugar that can grow yeast, which can cause
rashes, acne, and diaper rashes. Making skin care products is
fun and cost effective, but having reliable sources is key. Just
as in the cornstarch example, everything natural is not
necessarily good for skin. Remember to always do a patch
test when using an ingredient for the first time to ensure you
don’t have a sensitivity to it.

Ingredients matter! When making your own products, it’s always best
to use fresh and organic ingredients.

DEEP-CLEAN CLEANSER
45 APPLICATIONS
Clean pores are the gateway to healthy skin. This cleanser will help
keep your pores clean so your skin can breathe and function properly.
1 pinch coconut hull or bamboo charcoal
¼ cup finely ground sunflower seeds
2 tablespoons finely ground coconut flakes
Mix all the ingredients in a small bowl. Store in an airtight
container. Use within 2 months.

EVERYDAY CLEANSER
45 APPLICATIONS

This mild cleanser is gentle enough for everyday use on even the most
sensitive skin. It gently sloughs off dead skin cells, leaving your skin
resurfaced, cleansed, and ready to soak up your moisturizer.
¼ cup colloidal oats
2 teaspoons powdered coconut, soy, or goat milk
1 teaspoon almond flour
Mix all the ingredients in a small bowl. Store in an airtight
container. Use within 2 months.

PH-BALANCING TONER
60 APPLICATIONS

This toner will wipe away the last traces of dirt and oil your cleanser
may have missed. It also primes your pores, protects your skin, and
helps keep breakouts away.
2 cups distilled water
1 rooibos tea bag
1 honeybush tea bag
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
 Combine the water and rooibos and honeybush tea bags in a small
pot and simmer until the liquid has reduced to 1 cup. Allow the tea
to cool, add the apple cider vinegar, and store in the refrigerator.
Use within 2 weeks.

BIOFLAVONOID TONER
(WITH NEROLI)
60 APPLICATIONS

This antioxidant-rich toner will wipe away the last traces of dirt and oil
your cleanser may have missed, while preventing visible signs of aging.
2 cups distilled water
1 rose hip tea bag
½ teaspoon citrus peel, including the white part
½ cup neroli hydrosol (optional)
Combine the water, rose hip tea bag, and citrus peel in a small pot
and simmer until the liquid has reduced to 1 cup. After cooling,
remove the peel (larger pieces work best) and the tea bag. Add the
hydrosol (if using) and store in the refrigerator. Use within 2 weeks.

DEEP-CLEANING MASK
MAKES 25 MASKS

An intense pore-purging mask is a key element of a healthy skin care

routine. This mask dives deep into your pores, breaks up the dirt and
oils, then adheres to them and draws them out so your skin can
breathe and function properly.
1 pinch bamboo or coconut hull charcoal
½ cup kaolin clay
½ cup French green clay
 1 tablespoon distilled water
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar

1. In a small bowl, mix the charcoal, kaolin clay, and French green
clay together and store in an airtight container for up to 1 year.
2. When ready to make a mask, mix together the distilled water
and apple cider vinegar in a small bowl.
3. Mix 1 teaspoon of powder with enough vinegar mixture
(approximately 1 teaspoon) to make a thin paste.
4. Apply to your face immediately and wear for 5 to 15 minutes.
Use within 5 to 7 days.

SKIN-RENEWING MASK
MAKES 1 MASK

This skin-renewing mask replenishes essential fatty acids, vitamins,

and nutrients, while dissolving dead skin cells for healthy skin.
⅛ teaspoon fresh avocado
¼ teaspoon coconut milk, goat milk, or cow milk yogurt
⅛ teaspoon honey or maple syrup
1 small pinch paprika
Place all ingredients in a mini blender and blend or mash by hand
to a smooth consistency. Use immediately. Apply to your face
immediately and wear for 5 to 15 minutes.

FACIAL SCRUB
16 APPLICATIONS

Gently slough off dead skin cells with this mild facial scrub that is
perfect for even the most sensitive skin.
2 teaspoons hemp flour
 1 teaspoon finely ground walnuts
1 teaspoon colloidal oats
4 teaspoons honey or maple syrup
Mix all the ingredients together and store in an airtight container in
the refrigerator. Use within 2 weeks.

BODY SCRUB
1 APPLICATION

This decadent body scrub is infused with shea butter for ultimate
hydration. It’s an exfoliator and moisturizer all in one. One tablespoon
of scrub is generally enough for a complete application from the neck
down.
1 teaspoon avocado oil
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 teaspoon apricot oil
½ teaspoon shea butter
1 tablespoon sea salt
A few drops your favorite essential oil (optional)

1. In a small bowl, mix together the avocado oil, olive oil, and
apricot oil. Melt the shea butter over low heat, add it to the oils,
and stir vigorously. Place in the refrigerator.
2. To make the scrub, put the sea salt in a small bowl and saturate
it with enough oil mixture to generously coat the salt but not be
runny. The type of salt used will determine the amount of oil, as
smaller granules will absorb more.
3. Stir in the essential oil (if using).

FACIAL OIL
MAKES 6 TABLESPOONS
This combination of noncomedogenic oils is beneficial for all skin
types. It will deeply hydrate, balance oil production, and prevent signs
of aging. Note: If you have a nut allergy, leave the walnut oil out or
replace it with argon oil.
2 tablespoons jojoba oil
2 tablespoons safflower oil
1 tablespoon apricot oil
1 teaspoon rose hip oil
1 teaspoon carrot oil
1 teaspoon walnut oil

1. Mix all the oils in a 1-cup mason jar, close the lid, and shake
well. Store the mason jar out of sunlight. Use within 6 to 8
months.
2. After cleansing and toning, place a couple of drops in the palm
of your hand, rub your hands together, and massage your face
using gentle upward circular motions starting at your neck and
moving up.

BODY OR BATH OIL

MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP

This super hydrating oil is rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins, and
nutrients that will hydrate you from head to toe.
¼ cup safflower oil
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons avocado oil
2 tablespoons sunflower seed oil
2 tablespoons sesame seed oil (not toasted)

1. Mix all the oils in a 2-cup mason jar, close the lid, and shake
well. Store the mason jar out of sunlight. Use within 6 to 8
months.
2. To use as a body oil, apply it in the shower after you’ve soaped
and rinsed, or liberally whenever needed. To use as a bath oil,
add 1 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon to bathwater.
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https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909
Anthocyanins
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/biochemistry-genetics-and-
molecular-biology/anthocyanins
Antioxidants
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5514576
Apple
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5674215
Apple cider vinegar
http://www.pharmaxchange.info/press/2011/03/the-ageing-skin-part-
4f-chemical-peels/).
Apricot
https://doctor.ndtv.com/living-healthy/benefits-of-apricot-oil-health-
hair-skin-and-more-1901232
Argan oil
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020
Arnica
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15490315
Arrowroot
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/biochemistry-genetics-and-
molecular-biology/arrowroot
Asafoetida
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3459456/
Ascorbyl palmitate
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Ascorbyl_6-
palmitate#section=Absorption-Distribution-and-Excretion
Ashwagandha
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/303343480_Studies_of_Ashwagandha_
Astragalus
http://www.pnei-
it.com/1/upload/bioactive_compounds_from_natural_resources_against_skin_agi
Avocado
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020

B
Babassu oil
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5753019/
Babchi
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/pharmacology-toxicology-and-
pharmaceutical-science/psoralea-corylifolia
Balsam of Peru
https://www.ema.europa.eu/documents/herbal-report/draft-
assessment-report-myroxylon-balsamum-l-harms-var-pereirae-royle-
harms-balsamum_en.pdf
Bamboo
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4659479
Banana
http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname=foodspice&dbid=7
Baobab
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0102695X16300874
Barberry
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5478785/
Bay
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-dentistry/laurus-
nobilis
Bee pollen
https://www.thesuperfoods.net/bee-pollen/nutritional-analysis-of-bee-
pollen
Beefsteak plant
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24898576
Beet sugar
https://www.britannica.com/story/whats-the-difference-between-
cane-sugar-and-beet-sugar
Behenic acid
https://academic.oup.com/ajcn/article/73/1/41/4729657
Behentrimonium chloride
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/700657/BEHENTRIMONIUM_CHLORIDE
ZMnV
Bentonite clay
https://www.universityhealthnews.com/daily/nutrition/3-unexpected-
bentonite-clay-benefits
Benzoin
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/230165476_Volatile_constituents_of_b
Benzoyl peroxide
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3088940
Berberine
https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-1126/berberine
Bergamot
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909
Beta-carotene
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/252758.php
Beta hydroxy acid
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/salicylic_acid
Betel leaf
https://www.science.gov/topicpages/b/betel+leaf+extract
Bilberry
https://www.science.gov/topicpages/v/vaccinium+myrtillus+fruit
Birch
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/297715435_The_medical_importance_
_An_overview
Black cumin
https://www.healthline.com/health/food-nutrition/black-seed-oil-
benefits
Black currant
https://www.healthline.com/health/health-benefits-black-
currant#side-effects
Black or chebulic myrobalan
http://www.bioline.org.br/pdf?pr16105
Black pepper
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5600121/#jfds13792-
sec-0140title
Black raspberry
https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/04/070418074348.htm
Black tea
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/black-tea-benefits#section7
Black willow bark
https://www.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1468-
2494.2011.00645.x
Blackberry
https://www.healthline.com/health/benefits-of-blackberries#takeaway
Blue Cambrian montmorillonite
http://www.rruff.info/doclib/hom/montmorillonite.pdf
Blue lotus
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4710907
Blue-green algae
https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-3-642-66505-9_44
Blueberry seed oil
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3274736
Bog bilberry
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/263046615_COSMETIC_FORMULATION
Bolivian rose salt
https://www.seasalt.com/bolivian-rose-salt.html#192=94&202=592
Borage
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020
Boron nitride
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/chemistry/boron-nitride
Boysenberry
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15686403
Brazil nut
https://www.healthline.com/health/food-nutrition/brazil-nut-
benefits#1
Broccoli seed oil
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4481082
Bromelain
https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/article/7813/wounds/bromelain-
pineapple-extract
Buriti
http://www.ufrgs.br/sbctars-eventos/xxvcbcta/anais/files/1281.pdf
Butylated hydroxytoluene
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12396675
Butylparaben
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Butyl_4-
hydroxybenzoate

C
C12-18 acid triglyceride
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/trygly122017FAR.pdf
Cabbage leaf extract
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3931201
Caffeine
https://www.healthline.com/health/coffee-benefits-for-skin
Cajeput essential oil
https://wwwlib.teiep.gr/images/stories/acta/Acta%20680/680_8.pdf
Calcium bentonite
https://www.healthline.com/health/calcium-bentonite-clay#2
Calendula
http://www.pnei-
it.com/1/upload/bioactive_compounds_from_natural_resources_against_skin_agi
California poppy
http://www.dermaviduals.com/english/publications/special-
actives/alkaloids-in-cosmetic-applications.html
Camellia
https://www.dermalinstitute.com/us/news/tag/camellia-japonica/
Camphor
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Canola oil
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3746113/
Capryl caprylate/caprate
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/alkyle032013rep.pdf
Capsaicin
https://www.health.harvard.edu/pain/how-does-hot-pepper-cream-
work-to-relieve-pain
Caraway
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3210012/
Carotenoid
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-
sciences/carotenoid
Carrageenan
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/food-science/carrageenans
Carrot
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Castor oil
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/castor-oil
Catnip
https://www.mountainroseherbs.com/products/catnip/profile
Cayenne
http://www.dermaviduals.com/english/publications/special-
actives/alkaloids-in-cosmetic-applications.html
CBD
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/317221.php
Cedarwood
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909
Celery
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909
Cellulose acetate microbeads/cellulose acetate
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-
sciences/cellulose-acetate
Ceteareth-20
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/PEG-
PPG%20Ethers_DR.pdf
Ceteareth-25
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/PEG-PPG_ethers.pdf
Cetearyl alcohol
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/701236/CETEARYL_ALCOHOL/#.W66Hd
ZMnU
Cetyl dimethicone
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14555417
Cetyl esters/cetyl palmitate
http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/109158189701600107
Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/d664/a7f23cf41aab0d464b7b15071a508280a91a
Chamomile (German)
http://www.practicaldermatology.com/2010/10/applications-of-
popular-botanical-ingredients-in-otc-skincare/
Chardonnay grape seed
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5052182/
Chaulmoogra oil
https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-
621/chaulmoogra
Cherry blossom extract
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25065693
Chia seed
https://www.dermalinstitute.com/us/news/tag/tamanu-oil/
Chinese ash
http://www.pnei-
it.com/1/upload/bioactive_compounds_from_natural_resources_against_skin_agi
Chinese licorice
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/13880209.2016.1225775
Chironji
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/282954557_Buchanania_lanzan_spreng
Chlorella
http://www.codif-recherche-et-nature.com/wp-
content/uploads/2016/02/DERMOCHLORELLA-ZOOM-
PUBLICATION.pdf
Chloroxylenol
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/232053156_A_Review_of_Available_To
Chromium hydroxide green
https://www.pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/22504267#section=Wikipedia
Chromium oxide greens/chromium III oxide
https://toxnet.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/sis/search/a?
dbs+hsdb:@term+@DOCNO+1619
Chrysanthemum
https://www.healthline.com/health/food-nutrition/how-
chrysanthemum-tea-benefits-health
Cinnamon
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3854496/
Citric acid
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3362829/
Citronella
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Clary sage
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2221169115001033
Clove
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Cocamide DEA
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/109158189901800204
Cocamidopropyl betaine
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18627690
Cocoa
https://www.healthline.com/health/cocoa-butter-for-face
Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed rice protein
http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/kerati092015slr%20.pdf
Coconut
https://healthyeating.sfgate.com/benefits-pure-coldpressed-coconut-
oil-7169.html
Coenzyme 10
https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(03)03634-X/fulltext
Coffee
http://www.dermaviduals.com/english/publications/special-
actives/alkaloids-in-cosmetic-applications.html
Collagen protein
https://www.healthline.com/health/collagen-powder-benefits#top-
benefits
Colloidal oats
https://jddonline.com/articles/dermatology/S1545961616P0684X/1
Colloidal silver
https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/consumer-health/expert-
answers/colloidal-silver/faq-20058061
Comfrey
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3834722/
Copal
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Copper peptide
https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/articles/10980-understanding-
the-ingredients-in-skin-care-products
Coriander
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4152784/
Corn silk
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24595276
Cornstarch
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/24836924
Cornflower
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/313698266_THE_PHARMACOLOGICAL_
A_REVIEW
Cottonseed
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11558638
Cranberry
https://www.gundrymd.com/cranberry-seed-oil-skincare/
Cubeb
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/10412905.2007.9699217
Cucumber
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/260228305_Exploring_cucumber_extra
Cupuaçu
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4495740
Curculigo (black musli)
http://www.pnei-
it.com/1/upload/bioactive_compounds_from_natural_resources_against_skin_agi
Curcumin
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12676044
Curry
http://www.codif-recherche-et-nature.com/wp-
content/uploads/2016/02/AREAUMAT-PERPERTUA-FICHE-
BOTANIQUE-GB.pdf
Cyclopentasiloxane
https://www.osha.europa.eu/en/legislation/directives/regulation-ec-
no-1907-2006-of-the-european-parliament-and-of-the-council
Cypress
https://bmccomplementalternmed.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/1472-
6882-14-179

D
D&C colors
https://www.fda.gov/forindustry/coloradditives/coloradditiveinventories/ucm1066
Dandelion
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/dandelion-benefits#section2
Dates
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/benefits-of-dates
DEA oleth-10 phosphate
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/701868/DEA-OLETH-
10_PHOSPHATE/
Dead Sea clay
https://www.californiaskininstitute.com/treating-body-acne/?
gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm6vswrDb3QIVhWF-
Ch3oAw5_EAAYAiAAEgJMD_D_BwE
Dead Sea salt
https://www.sfsalt.com/dead-sea-salt-research
Decyl glucoside
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24174472
Decyl oleate
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581803022S106
Deep sea mud/clay
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25351016
Dehydroacetic acid
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.3109/10915818509078671
Dehydroepiandrosterone
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18242894
Delphinindin
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0022202X15331006
Denatured alcohol
https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/labeling/claims/ucm2005201.htm
Devil’s Claw
https://www.uofmhealth.org/health-library/hn-2079001
Dextran
http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?
doi=10.1.1.185.3954&rep=rep1&type=pdf
Dhupu butter
http://www.tropical.theferns.info/viewtropical.php?id=Vateria+indica
Diatomaceous earth
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/what-is-diatomaceous-
earth#safety
Diazolidinyl urea
https://www.contactdermatitisinstitute.com/pdfs/allergens/Diazolidinyl%20urea%
Dibutylphthalate
https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/productsingredients/ingredients/ucm128250.htm
Dicaprylyl carbonate
https://www.cir-
safety.org/sites/default/files/dialkyl%20carbonates.pdf
Diethanolamine
https://www.toxnet.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/sis/search/a?
dbs+hsdb:@term+@DOCNO+924
Diheptyl succinate
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Diheptyl_succinate
Diisostearoyl trimethylolpropane siloxy silicate
https://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=chem&id=3034
Diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14555419
Dill
https://www.mdedge.com/edermatologynews/article/56200/aesthetic-
dermatology/dill
Dimethicone
http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient.php?
ingred06=702011&refurl=/product.php#.W6jxAFJRfMU
Dipotassium phosphate
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3278747/
Disodium EDTA
https://toxnet.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/sis/search/a?
dbs+hsdb:@term+@DOCNO+8013
Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate
http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/kerati092015slr%20.pdf
DMAE
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15675889
DMDM hydantoin
https://www.unilever.com/about/innovation/Our-products-and-
ingredients/Your-ingredient-questions-answered/Formaldehyde-
donors.html
Dragonfruit
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308814608011783
Dulse
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15833383
Dyer’s broom extract
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/264164671_The_production_of_isoflav

E
Egg
https://www.thedermreview.com/egg-white-mask/
Elastin protein
https://www.elastagen.com/media/The_Science_of_Elastin.pdf
Elderberry
https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/07/070703172020.htm
Elemi
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Eleuthero
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5098108/
Emu oil
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/315535.php
Eperua falcata
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/236644564_Extractives_of_the_tropica
swelling_agents
Epigallocatechin gallate
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796122
Epsom salt
https://www.epsomsaltcouncil.org/uses-benefits/beauty/
Essential fatty acids
https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/essential-
fatty-acids
Essential oil
https://www.takingcharge.csh.umn.edu/explore-healing-
practices/aromatherapy/what-does-research-say-about-essential-oils
Ester-C
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5579659/
Ethanol
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2596158/
Ethoxydiglycol
http://www.beauty-review.nl/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Final-
report-on-the-safety-assessment-of-butylene-glycol-hexylene-glycol-
ethoxydiglycol-and-dipropylene-glycol.pdf
Ethylhexyl olivate
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/alkyle_build.pdf
Ethylhexyl palmitate
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.3109/10915818209013145
Ethylhexylglycerin
http://ijpsr.com/bft-article/characterization-and-quantification-of-
ethylhexylglycerin/?view=fulltext
Ethylparaben
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19101832
Eucalyptus
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Evening primrose
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18492193

F
Fennel
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Fenugreek
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3834722/
Feverfew
http://www.practicaldermatology.com/2010/10/applications-of-
popular-botanical-ingredients-in-otc-skincare/
Flavonoids
https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/flavonoids
Flaxseed
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3834722/
Formaldehyde
https://www.cancer.gov/about-cancer/causes-
prevention/risk/substances/formaldehyde/formaldehyde-fact-sheet
Frangipani
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1541-
4337.2011.00169.x
Frankincense
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
French green clay
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2600539/

G
Gamma linolenic acid
https://www.link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF03360571
Garlic
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4734812/
Geranium
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2221169115001033
Ginger
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK92775/
Gingko
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15549661
Glacier clay
http://www.clays.org/journal/archive/volume%2023/23-2-153.pdf
Glucose oxidase
https://www.globalhealingcenter.com/natural-health/glucose-
oxidase/
Glutamine
https://www.uofmhealth.org/health-library/hn-2856003
Glutathione
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4207440/
Glycereth-6 laurate
https://www.pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/121596024
Glycereth-26
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4505343/
Glycerin
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4885180/
Glycerol monostearate (GMS)
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/glyest092015TAR.pdf
Glycerol triacetate
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/biochemistry-genetics-and-
molecular-biology/triacetin
Glyceryl behenate
https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?
fr=184.1328
Glyceryl cocoate
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15513825
Glyceryl dibehenate/distearate
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1080/10915810701663143
Glyceryl esters
https://www.cir-
safety.org/sites/default/files/monoglyceryl%20monoesters.pdf
Glyceryl myristate
http://www.beauty-review.nl/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Final-
report-on-the-safety-assessment-of-myristyl-myristate-and-isopropyl-
myristate.pdf
Glyceryl oleate
http://www.beauty-review.nl/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Final-
Report-on-the-Safety-Assessment-of-Glyceryl-Oleate.pdf
Glyceryl palmitate
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/palmitic_acid#section=Top
Glycine soja
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020/
Glycolic acid
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4277239/
Glycolipids
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22790172
Glycyrrhetinic acid
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/neuroscience/glycyrrhetinic-
acid
Goat milk
https://drinc.ucdavis.edu/goat-dairy-foods/dairy-goat-milk-
composition
Goji berry
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/283675901_Dermatologic_Uses_and_E
Goldenseal
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-
dentistry/goldenseal
Gooseberry
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/200022975_Anticandidal_effect_of_ber
Gotu kola
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3834700/
Grape
https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/2/3/259/htm
Grapefruit
https://www.sciencebasedmedicine.org/not-natural-not-safe-
grapefruit-seed-extract/
Green tea
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK299060/
Grey salt
https://www.sfsalt.com/french-grey-salt
Guaiacwood
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Guar gum
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-
sciences/guar-gum
Guarana
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22151935
Guava
https://www.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/exd.13151

H
Hawthorn berry
http://pennstatehershey.adam.com/content.aspx?
productId=107&pid=33&gid=000256
Hazelnut
https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/hazelnut-oil-for-
skin
Hectorite
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/earth-and-planetary-
sciences/hectorite
Hemp
https://www.healthline.com/health/hemp-oil-for-skin#side-effects-
and-risks
Hexanoyl dipeptide-3 norleucine acetate
https://patents.google.com/patent/US6126939A/en
Hexyl laurate
https://www.cir-
safety.org/sites/default/files/alkylesters_blue_092012.pdf
Hexyldecanol
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23786619
Hexylene glycol
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0536.1989.tb04728.x
Hibiscus
https://www.dermatocare.com/blog/hibiscus-skin-benefits--
exfoliation-antiaging-and-hair-growth
Himalayan salt
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/315081.php
Homosalate
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15020197
Honey
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5661189/
Honeybush
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/273083376_Fact_Sheet_on_Honeybush
Honeysuckle
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3577469/
Hops
https://www.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/1541-4337.12201
Horse chestnut
https://www.centerchem.com/Products/horse-chestnut-extract-hgl-ms-
code-40540/
Horsetail
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4132922/
Hyaluronic acid
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3970829/
Hydrogen peroxide
https://academic.oup.com/bja/article/118/6/958/3860400
Hydrogenated coco-glycerides
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/115_buff3e_suppl.pdf
Hydrogenated didecene
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/702924/HYDROGENATED_DIDECENE/
Hydrogenated lecithin
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11358109
Hydrogenated olive
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22995032
Hydrogenated polyisobutene
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19101833
Hydrogenated soybean
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-
sciences/soybean-oil
Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polysaccharide_gums.pdf
Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides citrate
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/PEGalk062014SLR.pdf
Hydrolyzed algae extract
https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/5/1/2/pdf
Hydrolyzed lupine protein
http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/pltpep092016slr.pdf
Hydroquinine
https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/articles/10980-understanding-
the-ingredients-in-skin-care-products
Hydrosols
Catty, Suzanne. Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy. New York, NY:
Healing Arts Press, 2001.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ACTAPY122015rep.pdf
Hydroxyethyl urea
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/hyurea062018SLR.pdf
Hydroxyethylcellulose
http://www.beauty-review.nl/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Final-
report-on-the-safety-assessment-of-hydroxyethylcellulose-
hydroxypropylcellulose-methylcellulose-hydroxypropyl-
methylcellulose-and-cellulose-gum.pdf
Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid
https://books.google.com/books?
id=3tfKBQAAQBAJ&pg=PA107&lpg=PA107&dq=HEPES+topical+study&source=bl&o
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin
https://www.jpharmsci.org/article/S0022-3549(16)41410-3/pdf
Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate
https://efsa.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.2903/j.efsa.2017.4911
Hyssop
https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-258/hyssop

I
Illipe butter
https://www.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/jsfa.2740600104
Imidazolidinyl urea
https://www.ntp.niehs.nih.gov/ntp/htdocs/chem_background/exsumpdf/imidazolid
Indian barberry
http://www.phytopharmajournal.com/Vol6_Issue1_08.pdf
Indian gooseberry
https://www.lifeextension.com/Magazine/2010/7/Unleash-Your-Skins-
Internal-Defenses/Page-01
Indigo
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28681622
Inositol
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15569619
Iodopropynyl butylcarbamate
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/butylcarbamate_rr.pdf
Irish moss (carrageenan)
https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-
710/carrageenan
Iron oxides
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5316225/
Isoamyl cocoate
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/236067552_Immobilised_lipases_in_the
Isoamyl laurate
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Isoamyl_laurate
Isobutyl acetate
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/isobutyl_acetate
Isobutylparaben
https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/productsingredients/ingredients/ucm128042.htm
Isoflavonoids
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/chemistry/isoflavonoid
Isohexadecane
https://www.omicsonline.org/moisturizers-for-patients-with-atopic-
dermatitis-an-overview-2155-6121.1000143.pdf
Isoleucine
http://clinical-pediatrics-dermatology.imedpub.com/barrier-repair-
therapy-in-atopic-eczemaeffects-of-isoleucine-rhamnosoftceramides-
and-niacinamide-facial-and-bodycreams-on-clinical.php?aid=8391
Isononyl isononanoate
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581811428980?
journalCode=ijtb
Isopropyl lanolate
https://www.the-dermatologist.com/content/lanolin-wool-wax-
alcohol-update
Isopropyl myristate
http://www.nononsensecosmethic.org/wp-
content/uploads/2013/12/Comedogenicity-and-irritacy-of-commonly-
used-ingredients.pdf
Isopropyl palmitate
http://datasheets.scbt.com/sc-250200.pdf
Isopropyl titanium triisostearate
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/organo-
titanium%20ingredients.pdf
Isostearamide DEA
http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?
doi=10.1.1.919.1112&rep=rep1&type=pdf

J
Jamaican dogwood
https://restorativemedicine.org/wp-
content/uploads/2018/01/Piscidia.pdf
Jasmine
https://www.healthline.com/health/jasmine-essential-oil
Jojoba oil/wax
https://www.mdedge.com/edermatologynews/article/17921/aesthetic-
dermatology/jojoba
Juniper
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/

K
Kacip fatimah
http://www.pnei-
it.com/1/upload/bioactive_compounds_from_natural_resources_against_skin_agi
Kakadu plum
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S074000201830515X
Kalahari melon
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/318552260_The_topical_efficacy_and_
term_clinical_assessment
Kaolin clay
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/318508286_Characterization_and_Shor
Term_clinical_study_of_clay_facial_mask
Kapoor katcheri
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3530335/
Kefir
https://www.ajas.info/upload/pdf/147.pd
Kelp
http://www.differencebetween.net/science/nature/difference-
between-kelp-and-seaweed/
Kiwi
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29470689
Kojic acid
https://www.my.clevelandclinic.org/health/articles/10980-
understanding-the-ingredients-in-skin-care-products
Kokum butter
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-
sciences/garcinia-indica
Kombucha
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1047279718307385
Kukui nut
https://www.futurederm.com/what-does-kukui-oil-do-for-your-skin/
Kundari
http://www.pnei-
it.com/1/upload/bioactive_compounds_from_natural_resources_against_skin_agi

L
L-ascorbic acid
https://www.my.clevelandclinic.org/health/articles/10980-
understanding-the-ingredients-in-skin-care-products
Lactic acid
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8784274
Lanolin
https://www.the-dermatologist.com/content/lanolin-wool-wax-
alcohol-update
Laureth-4
http://www.journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.3109/10915818309141999?
journalCode=ijta
Laureth-7
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/PEGPPG062013tent.pdf
Laureth-23
http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.3109/10915818309141999?
journalCode=ijta
Lauric acid
https://www.cir-
safety.org/sites/default/files/115_draft_steary_suppl3.pdf
Lauroyl lysine
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/aaaamd092013tent.pdf
Lauryl alcohol
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12429475
Lauryl glucoside
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24617572
Lauryl lactate
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8784274
Lauryl laurate
http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/alkyle032013rep.pdf
Lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone
https://www.cir-
safety.org/sites/default/files/ROPSIL_092014%20_Tent.pdf
Lavender
http://www.practicaldermatology.com/2010/10/applications-of-
popular-botanical-ingredients-in-otc-skincare/
Lemon
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Lemon balm
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5871149/
Lemon verbena
https://www.science.gov/topicpages/l/lemon+verbena+aloysia
Lemongrass
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3217679/
Licorice root
http://www.practicaldermatology.com/2010/10/applications-of-
popular-botanical-ingredients-in-otc-skincare/
Lime
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/304448.php
Litsea cubeba
https://www.science.gov/topicpages/l/litsea+cubeba+essential
Luffa
https://www.pdfs.semanticscholar.org/ac9f/1f8a23b3b64f83173bafce942d307afba
Lutein
https://www.sciencebasedhealth.com/Webpage.aspx?WebpageId=68
Lychee
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3976307/
Lycopene
https://www.lifeextension.com/Magazine/2012/9/Topical-Lycopene-
Improves-Skin-Cellular-Function/Page-01

M
Macadamia nut
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/237671502_EVALUATION_OF_BASIC_PR
Machilus thunbergii bark
http://www.pnei-
it.com/1/upload/bioactive_compounds_from_natural_resources_against_skin_agi
Madder root
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1319610311002687
Magnesium alum silicate
https://foreveryoung.perriconemd.com/alpha-lipoic-acid-cellular-
rejuvenator.html
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3673383/
Magnesium aspartate
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/alkyl_amides_0.pdf
Magnesium carbonate
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/carbonate_salts.pdf
Magnesium laureth sulfate
http://nuph.edu.ua/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/8_Asian-Journal-of-
Pharmaceutics-%E2%80%A2-Jan-Mar-2017-Suppl-%E2%80%A2-11-
1.pdf
Magnesium oleth sulfate
https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-
pdfs/PR533.PDF
Magnesium sulfate
http://www.epsomsaltcouncil.org/wp-
content/uploads/2015/10/report_on_absorption_of_magnesium_sulfate.pdf
Magnolia bark
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/active/81720587.ht
Malic acid
https://www.healthline.com/health/malic-acid-skin-care#skin-care-
science
Malkangni oil
https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Therapeutic-uses-of-the-
plant_fig4_264540128
Maltodextrin
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/polysaccharide_gums.pdf
Maltooligosyl glucoside
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/8234920
Mandarin orange
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4908842/
Mandelic acid
http://www.nucelle.com/pdfs/article.pdf
Mango
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3249901/
Mangosteen
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1046/j.1365-
313X.1998.00073.x
Maple
https://www.acs.org/content/acs/en/pressroom/newsreleases/2018/august/maple
leaf-extract-could-nip-skin-wrinkles-in-the-bud.html
Marionberry
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15686403
Maritime pine
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3203267/
Marjoram
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5871212/
Marshmallow root
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3834722/
Marula oil
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0254629911001074
Meadowfoam seed oil
https://www.agresearchmag.ars.usda.gov/1997/feb/meadow/
Menthol
https://www.health.harvard.edu/newsletter_article/Rubbing_it_in
Menthoxypropanediol
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27862339
Menthyl anthranilate
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S101060301731434X
Menthyl lactate
http://www.leffingwell.com/download/Leffingwell%20-
%20Handbook%20of%20Cosmetic%20Science%20and%20Technology.pdf
Methicone
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1455541
Methyl gluceth-20
https://www.cir-
safety.org/sites/default/files/megluc122012tent_faa_final%20for%20posting2.pdf
Methyl gluceth-20 benzoate
http://www.innospecinc.com/assets/_files/documents/may_08/cm__1210344657_
20.pdf
Methyl glucose sesquistearate
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/megluc062013tent.pdf
Methylchloroisothiazolinone
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2562339
Methyldibromo glutaronitrile
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15811027
Methylglucoside phosphate
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/megluc092013final.pdf
Methylisothiazolinone
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4056723/
Methylparaben
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19101832
Methylpropanediol
http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/ADIOLS062016rep.pdf
Methylsilanol mannuronate
https://www.dovepress.com/in-vitro-study-of-rrsreg-silisorg-ce-class-iii-
medical-device-composed-peer-reviewed-fulltext-article-MDER
Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM)
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5372953/
Mexican marigold
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/237813994_The_Use_of_Marigold_The
Milk
https://www.ajas.info/upload/pdf/147.pdf
Mineral salts
https://www.sfsalt.com/redmond-real-salt
Moringa
https://www.doctorshealthpress.com/general-health-articles/moringa-
oil-benefits-for-skin-hair-health-side-effects-uses/
Moroccan chamomile
http://www.circulating-oils-library.com/en/essential-oils/wild-
moroccan-chamomile-essential-oil-ormenis-multicaulis
Moroccan red clay
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214509517300153
Motherwort
https://www.uofmhealth.org/health-library/hn-2132004
Mowrah butter
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/236147474_Mowrah_butter_Nature%27
Mucilage
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-
sciences/mucilage
Mung bean
https://www.pdfs.semanticscholar.org/ac9f/1f8a23b3b64f83173bafce942d307afba
Mungongo oil
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0254629911001074
Mushrooms
https://www.miamiherald.com/living/health-fitness/skin-
deep/article1947452.html
Muskmelon
https://www.britannica.com/plant/muskmelon
Mustard
https://food.ndtv.com/health/8-incredible-mustard-oil-benefits-that-
make-it-so-pop-ular-1631993
Myristic acid
https://www.acs.org/content/acs/en/molecule-of-the-
week/archive/m/myristic-acid.html
Myrrh
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/pharmacology-toxicology-and-
pharmaceutical-science/myrrh

N
N-acetyl L-tyrosine
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/700091/ACETYL_TYROSINE/
Narcissus
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2856661/
Neem oil
https://www.healthline.com/health/neem-oil-for-skin
Neopentyl glycol
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Neopentyl_glycol
Neroli
https://www.hydrosolworld.com/2017/the-benefits-of-neroli/
Noni
https://www.nccih.nih.gov/health/noni
Nonoxynols
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/nonoxy122015rep.pdf
Nutmeg
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5222521/

O
Oak bark
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3834722/
Oak moss
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/13880200600713808
Oats
https://www.dermnetnz.org/topics/oatmeal/
Obsidian clay
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2904249/
Octinoxate
https://www.healthline.com/health/octinoxate#is-it-safe
Octyl palmitate
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.3109/10915818209013145
Octyldodecyl myristate
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/19028571
O-cymen-5-ol
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.3109/10915818409010518
Oenocarpus bataua
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4964390/
Olive oil
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/305755353_Review_Beneficial_Health_
Orange
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3824622/
Oregano
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/9-oregano-oil-benefits-and-
uses#section1
Orris root
https://thedermreview.com/root-extracts-skin-care/
Oryzanol
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3299446/
Oxidoreductase
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-
dentistry/oxidoreductase

P
Palm oil
http://www.coconutresearchcenter.org/hwnl_4-2.htm
Palmarosa
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Papaya
https://www.dermatocare.com/blog/7-benefits-of-papaya-for-skin--
know-from-dermatologist
Parabens
https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/productsingredients/ingredients/ucm128042.htm
Parsley
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Passion fruit
https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/jf203313r
Patchouli
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3813264/
Pawpaw
https://www.scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=pjn.2016.23.27
Peach
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/274620.php
Peanut oil
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020/
Pear
https://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/FSS-Pear-Seed-Oil-
p/fss16731.htm
Pecan
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/9-healthy-nuts#section6
PEG compounds
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4505343/
Peppermint
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2221169115001033
Peptides
https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/peptides
Perilla seed oil
http://www.imedpub.com/articles/study-on-high-value-application-of-
perilla-seed-oil-and-meal.php?aid=22338
Petitgrain
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Petrolatum
https://www.healthline.com/health/beauty-skin-care/petroleum-
jelly#qampa-differences
PHA
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3047947/
Phenoxyethanol
http://www.safecosmetics.org/get-the-facts/chemicals-of-
concern/phenoxyethanol/
Phenylalanine
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/phenylalanine
Phenylpropanol
https://www.toxnet.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/sis/search/a?
dbs+hsdb:@term+@DOCNO+8266
Phthalates
https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/productsingredients/ingredients/ucm128250.htm
Phytic acid
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/phytic-acid-101#section5
Phytonutrients
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/313892969_Anti-
skin_ageing_phytochemicals_in_cosmetics_An_appraisal
Pine
https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/jf048948q
Pineapple
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/ac9f/1f8a23b3b64f83173bafce942d307afba3ea.p
Pink kaolin clay
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/318508286_Characterization_and_Shor
Term_clinical_study_of_clay_facial_mask
Pink lotus
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0308814609013120
Pistachio
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4890834/
Plankton extract
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/286325112_Glimpses_on_cosmetic_app
Plantain
https://www.uofmhealth.org/health-library/hn-2148003
Plum
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1173711/
Polyethylene
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17365139
Polypodium leucotomos
https://www.lifeextension.com/Magazine/2010/7/Unleash-Your-Skins-
Internal-Defenses/Page-01
Polysaccharides
http://www.scielo.br/pdf/bjps/v48n3/a22v48n3.pdf
Polysorbate 20
http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/706089/SODIUM_LAURETH_SULFATE/#.W
Polysorbate 60
https://www.bibra-information.co.uk/downloads/toxicity-profile-for-
polysorbate-60-1989/
Polysorbate 80
https://www.annallergy.org/article/S1081-1206(10)61024-1/references
Pomegranate
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/12-proven-benefits-of-
pomegranate#section2
Poppy seed
https://ndb.nal.usda.gov/ndb/foods/show/02033?
fgcd=&manu=&format=&count=&-
max=25&offset=&sort=default&order=asc&qlookup=poppy+seed&ds=&qt=&qp=&q
=&qn=&q=&ing=
Poria cocos
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24751506
Potassium sorbate
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22570031
Pracaxi seed oil
http://www.tropical.theferns.info/viewtropical.php?
id=Pentaclethra+macroloba
Prickly pear
https://www.aromaticstudies.com/prickly-pear-seed-oil/
Probiotics
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352647515000155
Propanediol
http://www.duponttateandlyle.com/pdf/C%26T_Skin_Sensitization_Reprint.pdf
Propolis
https://www.healthline.com/health/propolis-an-ancient-healer
Propylene glycol
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/1_2-propanediol
Pumice
https://sciencing.com/pumice-used-5449687.html
Pumpkin
https://www.dermalinstitute.com/us/news/2012/10/the-benefits-of-
pumpkin-ingredients-on-the-skin/
PVM/MA decadiene crosspolymer
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3835651/
PVP
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/1091581817716649

R
Raspberry
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15686403
Red algae
https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/UV-A-sunscreen-from-red-
algae-for-protection-skin-Daniel-
Cornelia/902037132f533eb070373ff027d56d33c637c751
Red clover
http://pennstatehershey.adam.com/content.aspx?
productId=107&pid=33&gid=000270
Red currant
https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/jf902806j
Reishi mushroom
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/reishi-mushroom-
benefits#section1
Resveratrol
https://www.livescience.com/52541-phytonutrients.html
Retinaldehyde
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/
Retinoids
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/Retinol_DAR.pdf
Retinol
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2699641/
Retinyl palmitate
https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/vitamins/vitamin-A
Rhassoul clay
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2904249/
Ribwort
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3834722/
Rice
https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-852/rice-bran
R-lipoic acid
https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/dietary-factors/lipoic-acid
Rock rose
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Roman chamomile
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-
sciences/chamaemelum-nobile
Rooibos
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3967803/
Rose
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020/
Rose geranium
http://www.acanceresearch.com/cancer-research/pelargonium-
graveolens-rose-geranium--a-novel-therapeutic-agent-for-
antibacterial-antioxidant-antifungal-and-diabetics.pdf
Rosemary
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/266370.php
Rosewood
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Royal jelly
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/royal-jelly#section9

S
Saccharide isomerate
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/saccharides.pdf
Saccharomyces lysate
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/26688190_Bifidobacterium_longum_lys
Sacha inchi oil
https://www.hindawi.com/journals/ecam/2013/950272/abs/
Safflower seed oil
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020/
Saffron
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3862060/
Sage
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21391115
Sake
https://www.britannica.com/topic/sake
Sal seed
http://www.worldagroforestry.org/treedb2/AFTPDFS/Shorea_robusta.PDF
Saponins
http://www.dermaviduals.com/english/publications/special-
actives/saponins-in-skin-care.html
Savory
https://www.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/ejlt.201000547
Saw palmetto
https://www.healthline.com/health/saw-palmetto-hair-loss#side-
effects
Schisandra
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/active/premium-
Narcissus-Tazetta-and-emSchizandra-Chinensisem-to-Regulate-Youth-
Gene-ClustersAn-In-vitro-Analysis-226957861.html
Sea buckthorn
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/267307083_Sea_Buckthorn_Oil_for_ski
Sea salt
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15689218
Seaweed
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/10715762.2017.1355550?
src=recsys&journalCode=ifra20
Senna alata
https://wwwlib.teiep.gr/images/stories/acta/Acta%20597/597_28.pdf
Sesame
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020/
Sesbania
https://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/duke_energy/Sesbania_grandiflora.html
Shea butter/oil
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020/
Shiitake mushroom
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/shiitake-mushrooms#section2
Silica
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4938278/
Silk amino acids
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4822939/
Skullcap
https://www.dermascope.com/scope-this/skullcap-extract-in-skin-care
Slippery elm
https://www.frostburg.edu/fsu/assets/File/ACES/ulmus%20rubra%20-
final.pdf
Sodium benzoate
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11766131
Sodium bicarbonate
https://www.jaad.org/article/S0190-9622(09)00493-9/fulltext
Sodium coceth sulfate
https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-
pdfs/PR533.PDF
Sodium hydroxide
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/sodium_hydroxide
Sodium laureth sulfate
http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/706089/SODIUM_LAURETH_SULFATE/#.W
Sodium PCA
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/pca.pdf
Solar-evaporated Pacific sea salt
https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/nutrition-and-healthy-
eating/expert-answers/sea-salt/faq-20058512
Sorghum
https://scialert.net/fulltext/?doi=ajft.2007.79.86
Soy
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5188409/
Spearmint
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/266128.php
Spirulina
https://www.omicsonline.org/open-access/clinical-efficacy-of-
dermocosmetic-formulations-containing-spirulina-extract-on-young-
and-mature-skin-effects-on-the-skin-hydrolipidic-barrier-and-
structural-properties-2167-065X-1000144.pdf
Squalane
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4885180/
St. John’s wort
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5411873/
Strawberry
https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/271285.php
Stinging nettle
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3529973/
Suganda bala
http://www.imedpub.com/articles/antimicrobial-and-
antiinflammatoryactivity-of-bioactive-components-ofpavonia-odorata-
wild.pdf
Sugar, cane
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19245467
Sunflower seed
http://www.practicaldermatology.com/2010/10/applications-of-
popular-botanical-ingredients-in-otc-skincare/
Sunscreen chemicals
https://www.ewg.org/sunscreen/report/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-
chemicals/
Sygyzium
https://www.innovareacademics.in/journals/index.php/ijpps/article/view/7901/597

T
Tabernaemontana divaricata Linn.
https://www.pharmatutor.org/articles/antioxidant-activity-of-flowers-
and-leaves-of-tabernaemontana-divaricata-linn
Table salt
https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/nutrition-and-healthy-
eating/expert-answers/sea-salt/faq-20058512
Talcum powder
https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/productsingredients/ingredients/ucm293184.htm
Tamanu oil
https://www.healthline.com/health/psoriasis/tamanu-oil-psoriasis-
healer
Tamarillo
https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/ac9f/1f8a23b3b64f83173bafce942d307afba3ea.p
Tarragon essential oil
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0278691512005303
Tartaric acid
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/tartaric_acid
Tea tree
http://www.practicaldermatology.com/2010/10/applications-of-
popular-botanical-ingredients-in-otc-skincare/
TEA-lauryl sulfate
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.3109/10915818209021267
Temu kunci
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1876619614001922
Temulawak
https://www.ema.europa.eu/documents/herbal-report/final-
assessment-report-curcuma-xanthorrhiza-roxb-c-xanthorrhiza-d-
dietrich-rhizoma_en.pdf
Thyme
https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jos/65/8/65_ess16042/_article
Titanium dioxide
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2855360/
Tolu balsam
https://www.ema.europa.eu/documents/herbal-report/draft-
assessment-report-myroxylon-balsamum-l-harms-var-pereirae-royle-
harms-balsamum_en.pdf
Toluene
http://www.cybra.lodz.pl/Content/10761/PJOM_1990_Vol_3_No_1_(109-
116).pdf
Tomar seed essential oil
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378874118318245
Tomato seed oil
https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2012/08/08/Botanic-
Innovation-targets-anti-oxidant-rich-tomato-seed-oil-at-hair-and-skin-
care
Tribenehin wax
https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Tribehenin
Triclosan
https://www.fda.gov/ForConsumers/ConsumerUpdates/ucm205999.htm
Trideth-3
https://hpd.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=chem&id=729
Triethoanolamine
http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/706639/TRIETHANOLAMINE/#.W6hGSlJR
Triisostearyl citrate
http://www.alegesanatos.ro/dbimg/files/Citric%20acid.pdf
Triterpenes
https://www.mdedge.com/edermatologynews/article/9403/aesthetic-
dermatology/triterpenoids
Tuberose
https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/sccj1979/30/1/30_1_77/_article/-
char/en
Tucuma butter
https://www.hallstar.com/product/tucuma-seed-butter-ultra-ref/
Tulsi
http://www.ijdr.in/article.asp?issn=0970-
9290;year=2010;volume=21;issue=3;spage=357;epage=359;aulast=Agarwal
Turmeric
https://www.healthline.com/health/turmeric-for-skin

U
Ucuuba butter
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378874108007253

V
Valerian
https://www.ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/Valerian-HealthProfessional/
Vanilla
https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/ja02025a019
Vervain
https://skums.ac.ir/Dorsapax/Data/Sub_39/File/ProfessorsArticles_etoolsfile1_90d
72ba-49d4-a5fb-145add444b04p976-c2706f1a-e582-4f9a-9d4a-
bbbc84ff3fb4.pdf
Vetiver
http://www.plantsjournal.com/vol1Issue1/Issue_may_2013/6.pdf
Viola hondoensis
http://www.pnei-
it.com/1/upload/bioactive_compounds_from_natural_resources_against_skin_agi
Violet
https://www.centerchem.com/Products/DownloadFile.aspx?
FileID=6939
Vitamin A
https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/vitamin-A
Vitamin B3
http://www.dermatologytimes.com/clinical-pharmacology/topical-
vitamins-hold-promise-face-challenges
Vitamin B5
https://www.healthline.com/health/vitamin-watch-what-does-b5-
do#daily-intake
Vitamin C
https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/vitamin-C
Vitamin D
https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/vitamin-D
Vitamin E
https://www.mdedge.com/edermatologynews/article/111743/aesthetic-
dermatology/update-vitamin-e
Volcanic ash
https://www.sciencedaily.com/terms/volcanic_ash.htm
W
Walnut
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3834722/
Warm adobe clay
https://www.britannica.com/science/illite
Watermelon
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/267935195_Watermelons_and_Health
Wheat germ oil
https://www.pharmanewsonline.com/health-wonders-of-wheat-germ-
oil/
Whey
https://www.ajas.info/upload/pdf/147.pdf
White kaolin clay
https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-44/kaolin
White tea
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/white-tea-benefits
White willow bark
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20883292
Wild yam
https://www.gundrymd.com/wild-yam-extract-skincare/
Wintergreen
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3995208/
Witch hazel
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3834722/

X
Ximenia Americana seed oil
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0254629911001074

Y
Yarrow
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Yellow dock
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20623623
Yellow kaolin clay
https://www.durablehealth.net/kaolin-clay/white-red-yellow-pink-
kaolin-clays-benefits-uses/
Ylang-ylang
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5435909/
Yogurt
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352647515000155
Yuzu
http://www.oryza.co.jp/html/english/pdf/Yuzu_Seed_Extract_ver3.0M.pdf

Z
Zinc oxide
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4120804/
Zinc sulfite
https://www.academic.oup.com/jn/article/135/5/1102/4663877
 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Writing a book on a combination of topics with the inclusion of 1,000

cosmetic ingredient definitions was a daunting task! But the support
and encouragement from my publishing team was invaluable. From
Elizabeth, who patiently got the process started, to Nana K., who wrote
the most comprehensive outline, to Meredith, who took my
disorganized manuscript and polished it. Thank you.
To my fans who make my days brighter. To hear how their skin has
changed, how I’ve empowered them with education to make choices
they’re comfortable with, allowed them to make effective products at
home, and brought joy to their life is an endless source of inspiration.
I thank my family, extended family, and staff for putting up with and
supporting me during the writing of this book, and always.
A huge thanks goes to you, the reader, for demanding information to
be able to make informed choices about what you put on your body.
To be able to provide that information is humbling.
In gratitude and good health,
Deborah
 ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Deborah Burnes has been “at the forefront of the natural beauty
product revolution” for at least two decades. Concerned about the
rapid proliferation of chemical-laden products, and convinced that
nature is the ultimate innovator, Deborah married her knowledge of
chemistry, biology, and cosmetology with studies in medicinal herbs,
nutrition, and environmental sustainability to launch Sumbody, an
extensive range of skin care, body care, and color cosmetics
formulated with pure, potent, whole-sum natural and organic
ingredients.
She has written two other books, Natural Beauty Skin Care: 110
Organic Formulas for a Radiant You! and Look Great, Live Green.
Deborah’s products are regularly highlighted on TV and in magazines.
Her popular blog is www.Sumbody.com/Blog.