International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management 130

Volume 4, Issue 4, April 2021

https://www.ijresm.com | ISSN (Online): 2581-5792

Methods of Improving Productivity in

Apparel Industry
R. Subhashini1*, Nirmala Varghese2
1,2
Department of Apparel and Fashion Design, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore, India

Abstract: Productivity plays an important role in any garment motion study. Work measurement is additionally called by the
industry. There are various reasons for which the productivity name ‘Time study’. Work measurement is completely essential
decreases and there are many known methods to improve the
for both the design and control of operations. Highly motivated
productivity. Choosing a correct and effective method plays a
crucial role. A garment manufacturing unit is considered for study employees focus their efforts on achieving the precise goals.
and analysis. The study helped in identifying the problems in the It’s the manager’s job, therefore, to motivate the employees to
industry. The study reported that productivity is low due to time get them to take up and try the simplest job. Highly motivated
Study analysis not being followed for the sewing operations. employees call in sick less frequently, are more productive, and
Secondly, employees are not motivated in the workplace. In order are less likely to convey bad attitudes to customers and
to improve the productivity, time study and motion study are the
associates. The motivation given has to be justified and should
effective methods. Work study is known to be a highly effective
productivity improvement method. Determining the standard be rational. It should be ready to fulfill the aim of productivity
work cycle time is one of the most important step used in work improvement otherwise it's going to result into huge loss to the
study, which helps in great deal in improving activities. The time organization and should even cause unethical work practices.
study and method study was carried out and was found that the Rewards and incentives within the workplace have benefits for
employees are not motivated in the workplace and that has both employees and employers. These incentives encourage
resulted in low productivity and efficiency. Subsequently with the
friendly competition between workers when linked to job
help of management various monetary and non-monetary
incentives to employees were suggested in addition to salary on performance. The sharing of a company's profits gives incentive
weekly or monthly basis. The introduction of the incentive schemes to employees to supply a top quality product, perform a top
has motivated the employees to work more efficiently. The time quality service, or improve the standard of a process within the
and motion study carried out in the industry has improved the corporate. Non-financial incentives help in satisfying
productivity by 33% and on an average; an operator makes 32 psychological, social and emotional needs of the workers. Few
pieces per hour.
examples for incentives include attendance bonus, group
Keywords: Time study, Motion study, Work study, Flow process incentives, and monetary awards, allow flexibility and
chart, Time standards, Productivity, Employee motivation, allowances, giving an opportunity to steer, work-life balance,
Incentive schemes. helpful services, healthy food etc.

1. Introduction 2. Literature Review

The study was carried out at a garment industry “Lango A. Productivity
Garments”. It is established in the year 2007.The industry According to J. R. Hicks, “Production is an activity whether
produces 15,000 garments per day and has well-equipped in- physical or mental, which is directed to the satisfaction of other
house factory of40,000 sq. ft. operating with 150 machinery. people’s wants through exchange. “Productivity is defined as
The productivity of the industry was studied and it was the ratio between output and input. Output determines the
observed that the time study analysis is not being followed for quantity produced and input determines the various resources
the sewing operations. Hence, the study aims to identify the employed like man, material, machines etc., (Ramesh Babu-
bottleneck operations and suggest appropriate methods to 2012). Productivity refers to the efficiency of production
improve the productivity of the industry to overcome the system. It is an indicator of how well the factors of production
problems. are utilized. (Glock and Kunz-2005).
Productivity is obtained by dividing output by one of the
factors of production. Work study may be a method of Productivity = Output/Input
enhancing the productivity of the firm by eliminating the waste
and unnecessary operations. It identifies non-value adding B. Work Study
operations by analyzing all the factors affecting the operation. “Work study is a generic term for those techniques, method
Method study and work measurement are a part of time and study and work measurement which are used in the examination

*Corresponding author: [email protected]

R. Subhashini et al. International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, VOL. 4, NO. 4, APRIL 2021 131

of human work in all its contexts. And which lead location. This also provides a graphical representation of the
systematically to the investigation of all the factors which affect worker's manual tasks in a coordinated manner.
the efficiency and economy of the situation being reviewed, in 4. Multiple Activity Chart
order to effect improvement.” (George Kanawaty, 1955). It's a graph in which the actions of multiple subjects (worker
or equipment) are reported on a standard time scale to
demonstrate their interdependence.
4) Motion study
Motion research is a form of process study in which the
motion of an operator or a piece of work is examined using the
prescribed methods.
5) Time study
Work measurement is another name for time study. It is
needed for both operational planning and control. Time
research is described by the British Standard Institute as "the
application of techniques designed to determine the time
required for a skilled worker to perform a specified job at a
defined level of efficiency." (Glock and Kunz, 2005).
Fig. 1. Framework of work study
C. Employee Motivation
1) Method study
Motive is described by Webster's Dictionary as "something
“Method study is the systematic recording and critical
that causes an individual to act." Employee motivation refers to
examination or existing and proposed ways of doing work as a
how dedicated an employee is to his or her job, how involved
means or developing and applying easier and more effective
he or she feels in the company's goals, and how motivated he or
methods and reducing cost.” (George Kanawaty, 1955).
she feels in their everyday tasks.
2) Recording techniques for method study
Following the selection of the work to be analyzed, the next Employees who are highly motivated concentrate their
step in the basic procedure is to record all details pertaining to energies on achieving particular objectives. As a result, it is the
the existing method. It is important to provide a method for manager's responsibility to inspire workers and encourage them
tracking all the required information regarding the current to do their best work. Employees who are motivated are less
method in order to imagine the activities chosen for likely to call in sick, are more active, and are less likely to
investigation in their entirety and to improve them by express negative attitudes to customers and coworkers. Job
subsequent critical review. Records are extremely useful for motivation may be extrinsic or intrinsic, which means that an
comparing the success of the proposed improved process before employee's motivation stems from within. (Stephen, 2016)
and after. 1) Incentives
Despite the promotion of alternative motivators, money
3) Types of charts
It can be broadly divided into continues to play a significant role in the mix of motivators.
i. Macro motion charts Employees who participate in benefit sharing receive a share of
ii. Micro motion charts. the profit in addition to their daily pay.
Employees and employers alike benefit from job bonuses and
i. Macro motion charts: rewards. When linked to job results, these incentives promote
Following four charts are used under this type: friendly competition among associates. Employees are
1. Operation Process Chart motivated to create a high-quality product, provide high-quality
It's also known as an outline phase diagram. By documenting service, or increase the quality of a company's process by
only, the main operations and inspections involved in the sharing profits.
process, an activity process map provides a bird's eye view of Non-monetary benefits are those that help workers meet their
the entire process. psychological, social, and emotional needs. Attendance
2. Flow Process Chart bonuses, community rewards, and cash prizes are only a few
The flow process map depicts the flow of work for a product examples of incentives. Others include allowing flexibility and
or a portion of it through a work center or department, with allowances, providing a chance to lead, promoting work-life
activities recorded using appropriate symbols. It is an balance, providing supportive resources, and providing
amplification of the operation process map, which depicts nutritious food.
operations such as inspection, storage, delay, and
transportation. 3. Methodology
3. Two Handed Process Chart Production in the apparel manufacturing industry plays a
The most accurate form of flow chart is a two-handed major role in deciding the profit/loss of the company. There are
(operator process chart), in which the movements of the various reasons that affect the target output or production.
workers' hands are reported in relation to one another. The two- Identifying the reasons troubling productivity and the methods
handed method map is typically limited to work done at a single used to overcome the problems, by utilizing the available
R. Subhashini et al. International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, VOL. 4, NO. 4, APRIL 2021 132

manpower in a more effective way are discussed in 2) Process Flow Chart and Operation Breakdown Table
methodology. A process analysis can be used to improve understanding of
In order to achieve the objectives of the project, the how the process operates and to determine potential targets for
methodology flow chart has been designed. The methodology the process improvement through removing waste. Thus, the
followed in the study is explained in the Figure 2 and 3. chart shows the flow of operations which needs to be done in
order to complete the sewing of the polo neck T-shirt. It shows
the process flow of both machine and non- machine operations
of each part of the polo T-shirt. Process layout of polo T-shirt
is shown in Table 1. The stitches and machines required to
construct Polo Neck T-shirt is shown in Table 2.

Table 1
Process layout of polo-shirt

Fig. 2. Methodology outline chart

Fig. 3. Methodology flowchart

A. Productivity Improvement
In order to improve the productivity in the industry following
methods are followed. Table 2
1) Style Analysis Stitches and machines needed to make Polo T-shirt
This polo T-shirt shown in Figure 4 is exclusively designed
for men’s upon considering the comfort. It is made up of 100%
cotton, Pique fabric with 160 GSM. It has sizes from M, L, and
XL. This polo T-shirt has the following parts,
a. Front part
b. Back part
c. Sleeves – 2 No’s
d. Collar
e. Placket
f. Side label
g. Contrast cuff

Fig. 4. Men’s T-Shirt

R. Subhashini et al. International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, VOL. 4, NO. 4, APRIL 2021 133

3) SAM allocation placket finishing, and side seam operation which are 220 and
Based on the motion study and cycle time of an operation, a 130 seconds respectively when the whole operation is
standard time is allocated for every operation known as SMV combined.
(standard minute value). Each operation was measured in 4) The Original Method
seconds and is recorded. Time study sheet is showing the An operation of placket making with side seam of a Polo T-
different types of processes, standard time for each operation in shirt has been taken and it is required to study the existing
minutes, with allowance added 15%, SMV and SAM for Polo original method using work study and thereby propose a new
T-shirt. Table 3 shows the operation breakdown with SMV. method which is more efficient and less time consuming. The
existing method is the traditional method in practice for making
Table 3
polo T-shirt front placket and side seam which is followed.
Operation breakdown with SMV for Polo T- shirt

a) Operational breakdown for placket

No. of Operator: 31
Standard Minute Value (SMV): 17.75 (min)
SAM = (SMV + 15% allowance)
= 17.45 + 2.66 = 20.41 (min)
Target per hour: (31×60)/20.41 = 91.13 pcs/hr.

Fig. 5. Estimated standard minute values

The Figure 5 shows that there are thirty-one (31) operation

breakdowns where most of the values for SMV are below 50.
The target per hour of a qualified operator will be 91 pieces. On
the other hand, operation SMV above 60, are observed as
R. Subhashini et al. International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, VOL. 4, NO. 4, APRIL 2021 134

b) Operational breakdown for side seam

d) Two handed process chart (for side seam)

A two handed process chart for side seam is shown in Table
5.

c) Two handed process chart (for placket)

A Two handed process chart for placket is shown in Table 4.
R. Subhashini et al. International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, VOL. 4, NO. 4, APRIL 2021 135

e) Multiple Activity Chart for Placket g) Time Study Chart for Placket
A multiple activity chart for placket is shown in Table 6. A time study chart for placket is shown in Table 8.

Table 6 Table 8
Multiple activity chart for placket Time study chart for placket

f) Multiple Activity Chart for Side Seam

A multiple activity chart for side seam is shown in Table 7.
Table 7
Multiple activity chart for side seam

Calculations:
Standard Minute Value (SMV): 138 sec
Calculation of SAM:
R. Subhashini et al. International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, VOL. 4, NO. 4, APRIL 2021 136

Allowance: 15% Calculations:

SAM (Standard Allowed Minutes) = Basic Time + Total Standard Minute Value (SMV): 124.36 sec
Allowances Calculation of SAM:
SAM = (SMV + 15% allowance) Allowance: 15%
= 138 + 15% SAM (Standard Allowed Minutes) = Basic Time + Total
= 138 + 21 Allowances
= 159 Sec SAM = (SMV + 15% allowance)
Therefore, SAM = 159 sec = 2.6 min = 124.36 + 15%
Maximum output = (Working time/Maximum process time) = 124.36 + 18.65
= (60/2.6) = 143.01 Sec
= 23 Pcs Therefore, SAM = 143.01 sec = 2.4 min
Productivity per Operator = Total output / Total manpower Maximum output = (Working time/Maximum process time)
= 23 Pcs/21 Operator = (60/2.4)
= 1.09 Pcs/Operator is the output. = 25 Pcs
Productivity per Operator = Total output/Total manpower
h) Time Study Chart for Side Seam = 25 Pcs/23 Operator
A time study chart for side seam is shown in Table 9. = 1.08 Pcs/Operator is the output.

Table 9 5) The Proposed Methods

Time study chart for side seam The operation of placket making with side seam of a polo T-
shirt was considered and thereby studied the existing original
method using work study and hereby proposed a new method
which is more efficient and less time consuming.

a) Operational breakdown for placket

R. Subhashini et al. International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, VOL. 4, NO. 4, APRIL 2021 137

b) Operation breakdown of side seam

d) Two handed process chart (for side seam)

A Two handed process chart for side seam is shown in Table
11.
Table 11
Two handed process chart (for side seam)

c) Two handed process chart (for placket)

A Two handed process chart for placket is shown in Table
10.
Table 10 e) Multiple Activity Chart for Placket
Two handed process chart (for placket) A multiple activity chart for placket is shown in Table 12.

Table 12
Multiple activity chart for placket
R. Subhashini et al. International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, VOL. 4, NO. 4, APRIL 2021 138

Allowance: 15%
SAM (Standard Allowed Minutes) = Basic Time + Total
Allowances
SAM = (SMV + 15% allowance)
f) Multiple Activity Chart for Side seam = 97 + 15%
A multiple activity chart for side seam is shown in Table 13. = 97 + 14.5
Table 13 = 111 Sec
Multiple activity chart for side seam Therefore, SAM = 111 sec = 1.8 min
Maximum output = (Working time/Maximum process time)
= (60/1.8)
= 33.33 Pcs
Productivity per Operator = Total output / Total manpower
= 33 Pcs/15 Operator
= 2.2 Pcs/Operator is the output.

h) Time Study Chart for Side Seam

A time study chart for side seam is shown in Table 15.
Table 15
Time study chart for side seam

g) Time Study Chart for Placket

A time study chart for placket is shown in Table 14.

Table 14
Time study chart for placket

Calculations:
Standard Minute Value (SMV): 100.92 sec
Calculation of SAM:
Allowance: 15%
SAM (Standard Allowed Minutes) = Basic Time + Total
Allowances
SAM = (SMV + 15% allowance)
= 100.92 + 15%
Calculations: = 100.92 + 15.13
Standard Minute Value (SMV): 97 sec = 116.05 Sec
Calculation of SAM: Therefore, SAM = 116.05 sec = 1.9 min
R. Subhashini et al. International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, VOL. 4, NO. 4, APRIL 2021 139

Maximum output = (Working time/Maximum process time)

= (60/1.9)
= 31.6 Pcs
Productivity per Operator = Total output / Total manpower
= 31.6 Pcs/15 Operator
= 2.1 Pcs/Operator is the output.
B. Employee Motivation
Incentives can be given to employees in order to encourage
them to work more effectively. Incentives include attendance
bonus, group incentives, and monetary awards, allow flexibility
and allowances, giving a chance to lead, work-life balance,
helpful services, healthy food etc. A chart of incentive scheme Fig. 7. Two handed process chart for placket and side seam
can be prepared with the help of management. It shows various
monetary incentives that can be given to employees depending In this graph its clearly shows that the hand movements are
upon their productivity and output. The monetary and non- decreased from 26 to 16 for placket and 24 to 17 for side seam.
monetary incentives can be given to employees in addition to When we do the time and motion study we are combining
salary on weekly or monthly basis. various operations for both hands and thus the number of
motions for both right and left hand motions are reduced.
4. Results and Discussion 3) Time Study Chart for Placket and Side Seam
The results obtained after implementing the proposed The following graph shows the comparison of the time study
method and employee motivation schemes are discussed. chart between the original method and proposed method for
placket and side seam finishing.
A. Productivity Improvement
By following the methodology, the following results are
obtained. The results are measured and shown in the form of
graphs for better understanding.
1) Operation Breakdown Chart for Placket and Side Seam
The following graph shows the comparison of the operation
breakdown steps between the original method and proposed
method for placket and side seam finishing.

Fig. 8. Time study chart for placket and side seam

From Figure 8, it is observed that the time taken to complete

the operation is comparatively reduced in the proposed method.
This is because of following the time and motion study by
combining various operations.
4) Output per Hour before and After Motion Study – Placket
Figure 9 shows the comparison of the output per hour before
and after motion study for placket and side seam.

Fig. 6. Operation breakdown for placket and side seam

From Figure 6, it is observed that the operation breakdown

steps are decreased from 21 to 17 for placket and from 26 to 17
for side seam. Time and motion study is carried out by
combining various operations and thus the number of
operations are reduced.
2) Two Handed Process Chart for Placket and Side Seam
The following graph shows the comparison of the two
handed process chart between the original method and proposed
method for placket and side seam finishing.
Fig. 9. Output per operator for placket and side seam
R. Subhashini et al. International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, VOL. 4, NO. 4, APRIL 2021 140

From the Figure, it is observed that the output per hour for the employees.
each operator for both placket and side seam in original method
is lower than the proposed method. As we can see that the
output is increased dramatically after we implemented the time
and motion study.
5) Percentage of Efficiency Before and After Motion Study
The following Figure 10 shows the percentage of efficiency
before and after motion study for placket and side seam.

Fig. 12. Group incentives

The employees are divided into various teams depending on

their type of operations carried out in the industry. Based on the
productivity achieved by each team the incentives are given by
the management to promote team work and to increase healthy
competition between the teams. The team who achieves output
efficiency above 60% is awarded with Rs. 100 per head in the
team. For output efficiency above 70%, the team is awarded
with Rs. 200 per head and for output efficiency above 80%,
each member in the team is awarded with Rs. 500. Through the
Fig. 10. Percentage of efficiency before and after motion study
incentive schemes, the team work is enhanced and employees
It is observed that the efficiency percentage of both the are motivated.
operations is increased dramatically after the implementation of 3) Allowances
the new proposed method. Employees can take leave any day they want. But the days
should not exceed the allowance of 10% which is 3 days a
B. Employee Motivation - Incentive Schemes month; with prior notice, they will be awarded leave with
A chart of incentive scheme is prepared with the help of salary. Exceeding 3 days without prior notice will result in
management. It shows various monetary incentives that can be cutting salary for one day extra.
given to employees depending upon their output. The monetary Experienced employees are assets of any industry. In order
and non-monetary incentives are given to the employees in to control switching of industries and to keep permanent labor
addition to salary on weekly or monthly basis. within the premises, extra allowances for long job tenure were
1) Attendance Bonus suggested and management accepted to extend this allowances
Various monetary incentives can be awarded to the to well experienced employees. Figure 13 shows the monetary
employees who maintain good and regular attendance. Figure awards extended to employees. For operators with 3 years’ job
11 shows the attendance bonus extended to the employees at tenure, an award of Rs. 36000 was extended at the end of third
different period. year along with Diwali bonus for better use. Employees with
more than five years of experience, an amount of Rs. 60000 is
awarded as a bonus. After this the entire cycle is repeated again.

Fig. 11. Attendance bonus

With the help of management, the employees who holds full

attendance for one month is awarded with Rs.500, for three
months Rs. 2000. For a period of 6 months, the bonus is Rs.
5000. If they maintain full attendance for one whole year they
will be awarded with one-month salary in order to motivate
them to work more efficiently.
2) Group Incentives
In order to promote the group activities and team work the
monetary incentives can be awarded based on the whole team Fig. 13. Monetary awards
achievement. Figure 12 shows the group incentives extended to
R. Subhashini et al. International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, VOL. 4, NO. 4, APRIL 2021 141

To encourage the working women, a scheme “Gold for improve the work life balance.
Marriage” was suggested. This award was extended to women
who are efficient and good performers in the company. Figure 5. Conclusion
14 shows the gold for marriage scheme. If the employee works Production is one of the most important department in any
in the company for 1 year, 2-gram gold will be awarded. 4 industry, as it plays a major role in deciding the profit or loss.
grams for 2 years and for women working in the company for Therefore, the study was carried in an apparel industry in
about 4 years, 6-gram gold will be awarded. This method Tiruppur to increase the productivity without disturbing the
increases the trust and good relationship between the employees input investment. It is challenging to identify the reasons for
and the management. finding out why productivity is not meeting the planned target
even though everything is planned and executed according to
the buyer’s requirement. The study carried out by analyzing the
productivity and the methods to improve the productivity
through time and motion study. It is found that the time study,
altering the operations, reducing the waiting time of the
machine, helps in improving the efficiency of operators in the
line, which in turn resulting in increased production.
Employee motivation plays greater part in increased
production. As a result, various incentive schemes are
introduced to motivate the employees based on their efficiency,
sincerity and productivity.
Fig. 14. Gold for marriage Thus, the productivity in sewing department is improved by
using work study method. The various process and procedures
4) Chance to Lead are improved and numerous steps are reduced by using motion
Weekly once any one person is chosen from the group to lead study. The efficient use of man machine and materials is
the group activities. They will assist the supervisor in all achieved by time and motion study. The employees are well
matters. During the supervisor’s absence in the company, the motivated.
group leaders will take up the responsibility and guide the rest
of the people in the group. In this way, all the members in the References
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[3] G. Kanawaty, “Work Study (Time and Motion Study)”, Introduction to
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