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 A fully lined notched-collar jacket fitting Boy 5/6
Originally designed, drafted and blogged by Sabra Gubler at www.sewastraightline.com
February 2011

Please keep in mind:

-I’m not a professional and the pattern reflects that. But it’s free, so that’s what you get.
It’s the pattern and construction process I used and should get you the same look,
assuming that’s what you’re going for. Or it can be used to help draft out your own
ideas. Or you could use it to line a bird cage. I’m good with whatever.
-When printing the pattern, make sure to unclick the “auto-center” options, etc. I’ve
included a one inch square marking for the first page of each constructed pattern piece
for you to compare, to make sure it’s printing at the needed size.
-If you do decide to get all crazy and make something off of my patterns and ideas, I’d
love to know about it. Feel free to shoot me an email or comment. It totally makes my
day. For full terms of use regarding things I share on this blog, please refer to my
TERMS OF USE.

Materials:
1.5 yards heavyweight fabric, such as corduroy or denim
1.5 yards lining
1 yard heavy- to medium weight interfacing
1/4 yard leather, suede, or the fake stuff
4 buttons
Jacket PDF pattern pieces (20 pages total)

Double Fish Eye Dart

transfer the dart markings from the pattern onto the wrong side of the outer material
Fold the material in half, right sides facing, along the center of the dart

Sew, following the transferred lines as a guide

Press on a tailors ham or tightly rolled towel to maintain shape

Breast Pocket:
Place the lining and the outer material right sides facing, all edges matching

Sew, leaving about a one inch gap at the bottom center

 Turn to right side through gap

Fold the edges of the gap inside, press

Top stitch the top, flat edge. I ended up going back and adding a second row of stitching
to the top edge.

Pin to jacket front, as per pattern indications

Sew to jacket from, leaving top, flat edge open. Repeat with a second row of stitching, if
desired
 Hip Pockets:

Lay your pockets out

 Fold according to pattern indications so that they resemble this

Press and do a short basting stitch across the folds at the very top and very bottom
 Lay the linings, right sides facing, so all edges match

Sew all around, leaving a one inch gap at bottom. Trim to 1/8 inch from stitching

Turn through opening, fold gap in, press, top stitch top edge
 Pin to jacket fronts, as indicated on pattern

Sew in place, repeat with second row of stitching as desired

Get your flap pieces

 Lay right sides facing

Sew both sides and one edge. Trim and clip corners

Turn, press, and top stitch

 Add button holes, as desired

Stitch with the flap open, or pointing up, just above the pocket opening

Fold down and sew along /14 inch along the top of the flap, securing in place
 Outer Jacket Back
Right sides facing

Sew back seam from point indicated on pattern up

Press seam allowance open

Interfacing:
Trim the front interfacing as indicated on pattern

Attach to back
 Front facings and collar

Jacket front lapel and hem

And I totally forgot to do the sleeves, but attach interfacing to the cuffs of the sleeves,
too.

Outer Sleeves:
pin elbow patches to sleeves, as indicated on pattern

Sew in place
Fold sleeves right sides facing

Sew side seams of sleeves

 Turn right sides out

Outer Jacket Construction:

Right sides together, lay jacket front onto jacket back
 Sew shoulders together, then side seams

Inserting Sleeves:

Basting stitch around the sleeve shoulder opening from marking to marking
 Gather with basting thread

Lay the right side out sleeve inside the inside out jacket
 Match the side seams and marking, pin

Pin at shoulder top

Use the basting stitches to adjust sleeve, pining in place

Sew
 Collar
Right sides together

Sew all around, leaving flat bottom edge open

Trim
 Turn and press

Pin to the right side of the jacket at the collar

From lapel notch to lapel notch

Now, sew through all layers of fabric, attaching the collar in place.

Front Lining
Lay front lining on front facings, right sides together
Sew, open, and press

Lining Back
Same as Outer Back
 Lining Sleeves
Same as Outer Sleeves, EXCEPT

You can either leave an eight-inch gap on one sleeve side seam, in the center, or unpick
this later in the process

Jacket Lining Construction:

Same as Outer Jacket Construction
 Now you’ll have two friendly little matchey jackets

Right sides together, lay them so that all raw edges match, and the collar is tucked down
 and inside, sandwiched between the outer and the lining

Sew from the front bottom hem of the facing, up around the sides, collars, down the
other side and end at the end of the other front bottom hem of the facing

Now match the bottom hems and sew those.

 The Book says to expect a gap where the front facing and the front lining meet

This next part looks weird, and is a bit confusing, so I hope I can explain it.

With things still wrong side out, pull the sleeves of both the lining and the jacket up
 above the shoulders.

Now you need to match their raw edges, right sides facing. It’s awkward, because the
entire sleeves are NOT inside of each other. You just have to put the openings ONLY
inside each other

And stitch all around

Now, if you opted not to leave an eight inch gap in one sleeve’s side seam earlier, now is
the time to unpick one sleeve’s side seam about eight inches
It will be through this opening that you’ll turn the whole thing right side out

Clip all corners, cut in all angles

 The back kick-pleat thing needs to be clipped, too

And start pulling the jacket through the opening. I think this part is really pretty cool.
Like giving birth to the jacket. Or something

To aid in pulling out all corners and edges, I used my seam ripper to kind of grasp and
pull.
I probably wouldn’t use this method on more fragile fabric, but it worked without a hitch
on the corduroy
So now you have this

Fold the hem up and sew in place. taking care of that earlier mentioned gap
 Figure out button placement and add button holes

And then sew your buttons on the opening and the pockets