Cat - Pruebas y Ajustes 3406B S - N 2WB

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Producto: NO SE HA ESCOGIDO NINGUN EQUIPO

Modelo: NO SE HA ESCOGIDO NINGUN EQUIPO
Configuración: NO SE HA ESCOGIDO NINGUN EQUIPO
Pruebas y Ajustes
3406 & 3406B GENERATOR SET ENGINES
Número de medio -SENR2537-02 Fecha de publicación -01/03/1988 Fecha de actualización -11/10/2001
Testing And Adjusting
Introduction
NOTE: For specifications with illustrations, make reference to Specifications For 3406 And 3406B
Generator Set Engines, Form No. SENR2536. If the Specifications in Form SENR2536 are not the same as in
the Systems Operation and the Testing And Adjusting, look at the printing date on the back cover of each
book. Use the Specifications given in the book with the latest date.
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting can be difficult. The TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX gives a list of possible problems. To
make a repair to a problem, make reference to the cause and correction on the pages that follow.
This list of problems, causes and corrections will only give an indication of where a possible problem can be,
and what repairs are needed. Normally, more or other repair work is needed beyond the recommendation in
the list.
Remember that a problem is not normally caused only by one part, but by the relation of one part with other
parts. This list is only a guide and cannot give all possible problems and corrections. The serviceman must
find the problem and it source, then make the necessary repairs.
1. Engine Crankshaft Will Not Turn When Start Switch Is On.

2. Engine Will Not Start.
3. Engine Misfires Or Runs Rough.
4. Stall At Low rpm.
5. Sudden Changes In Engine rpm.
6. Engine With Dashpot Governor Is Slow To Correct Speed Or Hunts (Changes Speed Constantly).
7. Not Enough Power.
8. Too Much Vibration.
9. Loud Combustion Noise.
10. Valve Train Noise (Clicking).
11. Oil In Cooling System.
12. Mechanical Noise (Knock) In Engine.
13. Fuel Consumption Too High.
14. Loud Valve Train Noise.
15. Too Much Valve Lash.
16. Valve Rotocoil Or Spring Lock Is Free.
17. Oil At The Exhaust.
18. Little Or No Valve Clearance.
19. Engine Has Early Wear.
20. Coolant In Lubrication Oil.
21. Too Much Black Or Gray Smoke.
22. Too Much White Or Blue Smoke.
23. Engine Has Low Oil Pressure.
24. Engine Uses Too Much Lubrication Oil.
25. Engine Coolant Is Too Hot.
26. Exhaust Temperature Is Too High.
27. Starter Motor Does Not Turn.
28. Alternator Gives No Charge.
29. Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular.
30. Alternator Charge Rate Is Too High.
31. Alternator Has Noise.
32. Rack Solenoid Does Not Stop Engine.
Problem 1: Engine Crankshaft Will Not Turn When Start Switch Is On
Probable Cause:
1. Battery Has Low Output:
Make Reference to Item 27.
2. Wires Or Switches Have Defect:
3. Starter Motor Solenoid Has A Defect:
4. Starter Motor Has A Defect:
5. Inside Problem Prevents Engine Crankshaft From Turning:
If the crankshaft cannot be turned after the drive equipment is disconnected, remove the fuel nozzles
and check for fluid in the cylinders while the crankshaft is turned. If fluid in the cylinders is not the
problem, the engine must be disassembled to check for other inside problems. Some of these inside
problems are bearing seizure, piston seizure, wrong pistons installed in the engine, and valves making
contact with pistons.
Problem 2: Engine Will Not Start
Probable Cause:
1. Starter Motor Turns Too Slow:
Make Reference to Items 27 and 28.
2. Dirty Fuel Filter:
Install new fuel filter.
3. Dirty Or Broken Fuel Lines:
Clean or install new fuel lines as necessary.
4. Fuel Transfer Pump:
At starting rpm, the minimum fuel pressure from fuel transfer pump must be 20 kPa (3 psi). If fuel
pressure is less than 20 kPa (3 psi), change the fuel filter element. Look for air in the fuel system. If
fuel pressure is still low, install a new fuel transfer pump.
5. No Fuel To Cylinders:
Put fuel in tank. "Prime" (remove the air and/or low quality fuel) the fuel system.
6. Bad Quality Fuel:

Remove the fuel from the fuel tank and fuel system. Install a new fuel filter element. Put a good grade
of the correct clean fuel in the fuel tank. See FUELS FOR CATERPILLAR DIESEL ENGINES,
Special Instruction Form No. SEHS7067 and MEASURING DIESEL FUEL API SPECIFIC
GRAVITY, Special Instruction Form No. GMG00977.
7. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:
Make adjustment to timing.
8. Shutoff Solenoid Will Not Move To Extended Position:
The solenoid must get electricity to stop the engine. Operate the control for the shutoff solenoid and see
if the solenoid makes a noise (clicking sound). If this sound can be heard and the engine will not start,
remove the shutoff solenoid. Now see if the engine will start. If the engine starts, the shutoff solenoid is
bad. Replacement of the solenoid is necessary.
Problem 3: Engine Misfires Or Runs Rough
Probable Cause:
1. Fuel Pressure Is Low:
Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks or bad bends in the fuel line between fuel tank
and fuel transfer pump. Look for air in the fuel system. Check fuel pressure. The outlet pressure of the
fuel transfer pump is 205 kPa (30 psi) for a 3406 or 240 kPa (35 psi) for a 3406B at full load speed.
If fuel pressure is lower than 140 kPa (20 psi) for a 3406 or 170 kPa (25 psi) for a 3406B, install a new
filter element. If the fuel pressure is still low, install a new fuel transfer pump.
2. Air In Fuel System:
Find the air leak in the fuel system and correct it. If air is in the fuel system, it will probably get in on
the suction side of fuel transfer pump.
3. Leak Or Break In Fuel Line Between Injection Pump And Injection Valve:
Install a new fuel line.
4. Wrong Valve Clearance:
Make adjustment according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.
5. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s) Or Injection Pump(s):
Run at rpm that causes engine to misfire the most or run the roughest. Then loosen a fuel injection line
nut at the valve cover base for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylinder where a loosened fuel line
nut does not change the way the engine runs. Test the injection pump and injection nozzle for that
cylinder. Install new parts where needed.
7. Bent Or Broken Push Rod:
Replacement of push rod is necessary.
8. Fuel Has "Cloud Point" Higher Than Atmospheric Temperature ("Cloud Point" = Temperature
Which Makes Wax Form In Fuel.):
Drain the fuel tank, lines, and fuel injection pump housing. Change the fuel filter. Fill the tank with fuel
which has the correct "cloud point" and remove the air from the system with the priming pump.
Problem 4: Stall At Low RPM
Probable Cause:
and fuel transfer pump. Look for air in the fuel system, sticking, binding or defective fuel bypass valve.
Check fuel pressure. The outlet pressure of the fuel transfer pump should be 205 kPa (30 psi) for a
3406 or 240 kPa (35 psi) for a 3406B at full load speed.
2. Idle rpm Too Low:
Make adjustment to governor so idle rpm is the same as given in the Fuel Setting And Related
Information Fiche.
3. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s):
Install new fuel injection nozzle(s).
4. Engine Accessories:
Check engine accessories for damage and correct adjustment. If necessary, disconnect the accessories
and test the engine.
5. Defect In Fuel Injection Pump(s):
Install new parts if needed.
Problem 5: Sudden Changes In Engine Speed (rpm)
Probable Cause:
1. Failure Of Governor Or Fuel Injection Pump:
Look for damaged or broken springs, linkage or other parts. Remove the governor. Check for free
travel of the fuel racks. Be sure fuel injection pumps are installed correctly. Check for correct governor
spring. Install new parts for those that have damage or defects.
Problem 6: Engine With "Dashpot" Governor Is Slow To Correct Speed Or Hunts (Changes Speed
Constantly)
Probable Cause:
1. Wrong Adjustment Of "Dashpot" Governor:
Make correct adjustment. Make reference to GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENTS in Testing and Adjusting
section.
Problem 7: Not Enough Power
Probable Cause:
and fuel transfer pump. Look for air in the fuel system. Check fuel pressure. The outlet pressure of the
fuel transfer pump should be 205 kPa (30 psi) for a 3406 or 240 kPa (35 psi) for a 3406B at full load
speed.
3. Leaks In Air Inlet System:
Check the pressure in the air inlet manifold. Look for restrictions in the air cleaner.
4. Governor Linkage:
Make adjustment to get full travel of linkage. Install new parts for those that have damage or defects.
5. Wrong Valve Clearance:
6. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s) Or Fuel Injection Pump(s):
Run at rpm that causes engine to misfire the most or run the roughest. Then loosen a fuel line nut on the
injection pump for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylinder where a loosened fuel line nut does
not change the way the engine runs. Test the injection pump and injection nozzle for that cylinder.
Install new parts where needed.
8. Fuel Setting Too Low:
Make reference to the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.
9. Fuel Ratio Control:
Control either needs an adjustment or it is damaged and a new control is needed.
10. Defect In Aftercooler:
Check temperature of inlet and outlet water supply. Remove any external or internal restriction.
11. Turbocharger Has Carbon Deposit Or Other Causes Of Friction:
Inspect and repair turbocharger as necessary.
Problem 8: Too Much Vibration
Probable Cause:
1. Loose Bolt Or Nut For Pulley Or Damper:
Tighten bolt or nut.
2. Pulley Or Damper Has A Defect:
Install a new pulley or damper.
3. Engine Supports Are Loose, Worn, Or Have A Defect:
Tighten all bolts that hold engine supports. Install new components if necessary.
4. Engine Misfires Or Runs Rough:
5. Fan Blade Not In Balance:
Loosen or remove fan belts and operate engine for a short time at the rpm that the vibration was
present. If vibration is not still present, make a replacement of the fan assembly.
Problem 9: Loud Combustion Noise (Sound)
Probable Cause:
2. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s):
Install new fuel injection nozzle(s).
3. Defect In Injection Pump(s):
Install new fuel injection pump(s).
Problem 10: Valve Train Noise (Clicking)
Probable Cause:
1. Damage To Valve Spring(s), Locks, Or Broken Or Worn Valve Lifter:
Install new parts where necessary. Broken locks can cause the valve to get into the cylinder. This will
cause much damage.
2. Not Enough Lubrication:
Check lubrication in valve compartment. There must be a strong flow of oil at engine high rpm, but
only a small flow of oil at low rpm. Oil passages must be clean, especially those that send oil to the
cylinder head.
3. Too Much Valve Clearance:
4. Damage To Bridge For Valves:
Make a replacement of the bridge and make an adjustment as necessary.
Problem 11: Oil In Cooling System
Probable Cause:
1. Defect In Core Of Engine Oil Cooler:
Install a new engine oil cooler. Drain and flush cooling system and refill with new coolant.
2. Defect In Spacer Plate Gasket:
Install new spacer plate gasket.
3. Failure Of Cylinder Head Gasket:
Install a new head gasket.
Problem 12: Mechanical Noise (Knock) In Engine
Probable Cause:
1. Failure Of Bearing For Connecting Rod:
Inspect the bearing for the connecting rod and the bearing surface (journal) on the crankshaft. Install
new parts where necessary.
2. Damaged Timing Gears:
Install new parts where necessary.
3. Damaged Crankshaft:
Make replacement of the crankshaft.
4. Defect In Attachment:
Repair or install new components.
Problem 13: Fuel Consumption Too High
Probable Cause:
1. Fuel System Leaks:
Large changes in fuel consumption may be the result. Inside leaks probably will cause low engine oil
pressure and an increase in oil level in the engine. Tighten loose connections or make a replacement of
the component that leaks.
2. Fuel And Combustion Noise (Knock):
Make Reference to Item 3 and Item 6.
4. Wrong Or Poor Quality Fuel:
Problem 14: Loud Valve Train Noise
Probable Cause:
1. Damage To Valve Spring(s):
Make replacement of parts with damage.
2. Damage To Camshaft:
Make replacement of parts with damage. Clean engine thoroughly. If replacement of camshaft is made,
new valve lifters are also necessary.
3. Damage To Valve Lifter:
Clean engine thoroughly. Make a replacement of the damaged valve lifters. Inspect camshaft cams
(lobes) for damage. Look for valves that do not move freely. Make an adjustment to valve clearance
according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.
4. Damage To Bridges For Valves Or Bridge Dowel:
Make a replacement of the bridge and/or bridge dowel, and adjust as necessary.
Problem 15: Too Much Valve Lash

Probable Cause:
1. Not Enough Lubrication:
Check lubrication in valve compartment. There must be a strong flow of oil at engine high rpm, but
only a small flow at low rpm. Oil passages must be clean, especially those that send oil to the cylinder
head.
2. Rocker Arm Worn At Face That Makes Contact With Bridge:
If there is too much wear, install new parts or rocker arms. Make adjustment of valve clearance
according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.
3. Worn Bridge Or Bridge Dowel For Valves:
Make replacement of the bridge and/or bridge dowel, and adjust as necessary.
4. End Of Valve Stem Worn:
If there is too much wear, install new valves. Make adjustment to valve clearance according to the
Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.
5. Worn Push Rods:
If there is too much wear, install new push rods. Make adjustment of valve clearance according to the
6. Broken Or Worn Valve Lifters:
Install new valve lifters. Check camshaft for wear. Check for free movement of valves or bent valve
stem. Clean engine thoroughly. Make adjustment of valve clearance according to the Subject, VALVE
CLEARANCE SETTING.
7. Worn Cams (Lobes) On Camshaft:
Install a new camshaft. Install new valve lifters if damaged. Check for free movement of valves or bent
valve stems. Make adjustment of valve clearance according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE
SETTING.
Problem 16: Valve Rotocoil Or Spring Lock Is Free
Probable Cause:
1. Broken Locks:
Broken locks can cause the valve to get into the cylinder. This will cause much damage..
2. Broken Valve Spring(s):
Install new valve spring(s).
3. Broken Valve:
Replace valve and other damaged parts.
Problem 17: Oil At The Exhaust
Probable Cause:
1. Too Much Oil In The Valve Compartment:
Look at both ends of the rocker arm shaft. Be sure a plug is in each end of the shaft.
2. Worn Valve Guides:
Reconditioning of the cylinder head is needed.

3. Worn Piston Rings:
Inspect and install new parts as needed.
Problem 18: Little Or No Valve Clearance
Probable Cause:
1. Worn Valve Seat Or Face Of Valve:
Reconditioning of cylinder head is needed. Make adjustment of valve clearance according to the
Problem 19: Engine Has Early Wear
Probable Cause:
1. Dirt In Lubrication Oil:
Remove dirty lubrication oil. Install new oil filter elements. Put clean oil in the engine.
2. Air Inlet Leaks:
Inspect all gaskets and connections. Make repairs if leaks are found.
3. Fuel Leakage Into Lubrication Oil:
This will cause high fuel consumption and low engine oil pressure. Make repairs if leaks are found.
Install new parts where needed.
Problem 20: Coolant In Lubrication Oil
Probable Cause:
1. Failure Of Engine Oil Cooler:
Install a new engine oil cooler. Drain crankcase and refill with clean engine oil. Install new oil filter
elements.
2. Failure Of Cylinder Head Gasket Or Water Seals:
Check cylinder liner projection. Install a new spacer plate gasket and new water seals in the spacer
plate. Install a new cylinder head gasket. Tighten the bolts that hold the cylinder head according to the
Specifications.
3. Crack Or Defect In Cylinder Head:
Install a new cylinder head.
4. Crack Or Defect In Cylinder Block:
Install a new cylinder block.
5. Failure Of Liner Seals:
Replace seals.
6. Crack Or Defect In Cartridge Of Turbocharger:
Install a new turbocharger cartridge.
Problem 21: Too Much Black Or Gray Smoke
Probable Cause:
1. Not Enough Air For Combustion:

Check air cleaner for restrictions.
2. Bad Fuel Injection Valve(s):
Install new fuel injection valve(s).
4. Defect In Fuel Ratio Control:
Make adjustment to or install new control.
Problem 22: Too Much White Or Blue Smoke
Probable Cause:
1. Too Much Lubrication Oil In Engine:
Remove extra oil. Find where extra oil comes from. Put correct amount of oil in engine.
2. Engine Misfires Or Runs Rough:
Reconditioning of cylinder head is necessary.
5. Worn Piston Rings:
Install new piston rings. Check condition of cylinder liners.
6. Failure Of Turbocharger Oil Seal:
Check inlet manifold for oil. Replace seals and repair turbocharger if necessary.
7. Coolant In Combustion System:
Check for cracked head.
Problem 23: Engine Has Low Oil Pressure
Probable Cause:
1. Dirty Oil Filter Or Oil Cooler:
Check the operation of bypass valve for the filter. Install new oil filter elements if needed. Clean or
install new oil cooler core. Remove dirty oil from engine. Put clean oil in engine.
2. Diesel Fuel In Lubrication Oil:
Find the place where diesel fuel gets into the lubrication oil. Make repairs as needed. Remove the
lubrication oil that has diesel fuel in it. Install new oil filter elements. Put clean oil in the engine.
3. Too Much Clearance Between Rocker Arm Shaft And Rocker Arms:
Check lubrication in valve compartment. Install new parts as necessary.
4. Oil Pump Suction Pipe Has A Defect:

Replacement of pipe is necessary.
5. Relief Valve For Oil Pump Does Not Operate Correctly:
Clean valve and housing. Install new parts as necessary.
6. Oil Pump Is Worn Or Has A Defect:
Repair or make replacement of necessary parts.
7. Too Much Clearance Between Crankshaft And Crankshaft Bearings:
Check the oil filter for correct operation. Install new parts as necessary.
8. Too Much Clearance Between Camshaft And Camshaft Bearings:
Install new camshaft bearings. Install new camshaft if necessary.
9. Defect In Oil Pressure Gauge:
Install new gauge.
10. Too Much Bearing Clearance For Idler Gear:
Inspect bearings and make replacement as necessary.
Problem 24: Engine Uses Too Much Lubrication Oil
Probable Cause:
1. Too Much Lubrication Oil In Engine:
Remove extra oil. Find where extra oil comes from. Put correct amount of oil in engine.
2. Oil Leaks:
Find all oil leaks. Make repairs as necessary.
3. Oil Temperature Is Too High:
Check operation of engine oil cooler. Clean the core of the engine oil cooler. Install new parts if
necessary.
4. Too Much Oil In The Valve Compartment:
Look at both ends of the rocker arm shaft. Be sure a plug is in each end of the shaft.
Reconditioning of the cylinder head is necessary.
6. Worn Piston Rings And Cylinder Liners:
Inspect and install new parts as necessary. Reconditioning of the cylinder block may be necessary.
7. Failure Of Seal Rings In Turbocharger:
Check inlet manifold for oil and make repair to turbocharger if necessary.
Problem 25: Engine Coolant Is Too Hot
Probable Cause:
1. Restriction To Flow Of Coolant Through Radiator Core Tubes Or Heat Exhanger Lines:
Clean and flush radiator or heat exchanger lines.

2. Restriction To Air Flow Through Radiator:
Remove all restrictions to air flow.
3. Low Fan Speed:
Check for worn or loose fan belts.
4. Not Enough Coolant In System:
Add coolant to cooling system.
5. Radiator Or Expansion Tank Pressure Cap Has A Defect:
Check operation of pressure cap. Install a new pressure cap if necessary.
6. Combustion Gases In Coolant:
Find out where gases get into the cooling system. Make repairs as necessary.
7. Water Temperature Regulators (Thermostats) Or Temperature Gauge Has A Defect:
Check water temperature regulators for correct operation. Check temperature gauge operation. Install
new parts as necessary.
8. Water Pump Has A Defect:
Make repairs or replacement of the water pump as necessary.
9. Too Much Load On The System:
Make a reduction to the load.
Problem 26: Exhaust Temperature Is Too High
Probable Cause:
1. Air Inlet System Has A Leak:
Check pressure in the air inlet manifold. Look for restrictions at the air cleaner. Correct any leaks.
2. Exhaust System Has A Leak:
Find cause of exhaust leak. Make repairs as necessary.
3. Air Inlet Or Exhaust System Has A Restriction:
Remove restriction.
Make an adjustment to the timing.
Problem 27: Starter Motor Does Not Turn
Probable Cause:
1. Battery Has Low Output:
Check condition of battery. Charge battery or make replacement as necessary.
2. Wires Or Switch Has Defect:

Make repairs or replacement as necessary.
3. Starter Motor Solenoid Has A Defect:
Install a new solenoid.
4. Starter Motor Has A Defect:
Make repair or replacement of starter motor.
Problem 28: Alternator Gives No Charge
Probable Cause:
1. Loose Drive Belt For Alternator:
Make an adjustment to put the correct tension on the drive belt.
2. Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Have A Defect:
Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Make replacement of parts with
defect.
3. Rotor (Field Coil) Has A Defect:
Install a new rotor.
4. Brushes (if so equipped) Have A Defect:
Install new brushes.
Problem 29: Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular
Probable Cause:
1. Loose Drive Belt For Alternator:
Make an adjustment to put the correct tension on the drive belt.
2. Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Have A Defect:
Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Make replacement of parts with
defects.
3. Alternator Regulator Has A Defect:
Install a new alternator regulator.
4. Alternator Regulator Not Adjusted Correctly:
See ELECTRICAL SYSTEM in Testing and Adjusting. Some alternator regulators can be adjusted and
some cannot be adjusted.
5. Rectifier Diodes Have A Defect:
Make replacement of rectifier diode that has a defect.
6. Rotor (Field Coil) Has A Defect:
Install a new rotor (this applies only to brush type alternators).
Problem 30: Alternator Charge Rate Is Too High
Probable Cause:
1. Alternator Or Alternator Regulator Has Loose Connections:

Tighten all connections to alternator or alternator regulator.
2. Alternator Regulator Has A Defect:
Install a new alternator regulator.
3. Alternator Regulator Not Adjusted Correctly:
See ELECTRICAL SYSTEM in Testing and Adjusting. Some alternator regulators can be adjusted and
some cannot be adjusted.
Problem 31: Alternator Has Noise
Probable Cause:
1. Drive Belt For Alternator Is Worn Or Has A Defect:
Install a new drive belt for the alternator.
2. Loose Alternator Drive Pulley:
Check groove in pulley for key that holds pulley in place. If groove is worn, install a new pulley.
Tighten pulley nut according to Specifications.
3. Drive Belt And Drive Pulley For Alternator Are Not In Alignment:
Make an adjustment to put drive belt and drive pulley in correct alignment.
4. Worn Alternator Bearings:
Install new bearings in the alternator.
5. Rotor Shaft Is Bent:
Make a replacement of the rotor shaft.
6. Rectifiers In The Alternator Are Shorted:
Make a replacement of the diode assembly.
Problem 32: Rack Solenoid Does Not Stop Engine
Probable Cause:
1. Electrical Connections Are Not Correct:
Correct electrical connections and wiring.
2. Not Enough Plunger Travel:
Make an adjustment to the plunger shaft or make a replacement of the solenoid if necessary.
3. Wrong Shaft In Plunger:
Install the correct shaft in the plunger.
4. Defect In Solenoid Wiring:
Make a replacement of the solenoid.
Fuel System
3406B New Scroll Fuel System
Either too much fuel or not enough fuel for combustion can be the cause of a problem in the fuel system.
Many times work is done on the fuel system when the problem is really with some other part of the engine.
The source of the problem is difficult to find, especially when smoke comes from the exhaust. Smokethat
comes from the exhaust can be caused by a bad fuel injection valve, but it can also be caused by one or more
of the reasons that follow:
a. Not enough air for good combustion.

b. An overload at high altitude.
c. Oil leakage into combustion chamber.
d. Not enough compression.
e. Fuel injection timing retarded.
Fuel System Inspection

A problem with the components that send fuel to the engine can cause low fuel pressure. This can decrease
engine performance.
1. Check the fuel level in the fuel tank. Look at the cap for the fuel tank to make sure the vent is not filled
with dirt.
2. Check the fuel lines for fuel leakage. Be sure the fuel supply line does not have a restriction or a bad bend.
3. Install a new fuel filter. Clean the primary fuel filter.
4. Remove any air that may be in the fuel system. Use the fuel priming pump to move fuel through low
pressure part of the system. Fuel with air will return to the tank through the fuel return line.
To remove air from the fuel injection lines, loosen the fuel line nuts at the through head adapter nozzles
1/2turn. Move the governor lever to the low idle position. Crank engine with the starter motor until fuel
without air comes from the fuel line connections. Tighten the fuel line nuts.
NOTE: The fuel priming pump will not give enough pressure to push fuel through the orificed reverse flow
check valves in the fuel injection pumps.
Fuel Transfer Pump

With the engine operating at full load speed, the fuel transfer pump moves fuel through the secondary filter
and the fuel injection pump housing at approximately 240 kPa (35 psi).
Fuel Lines (Typical Example)

(1) Fuel Inlet.
To check the fuel transfer pump pressure, disconnect the fuel line (from the filter) at the fuel injection pump
housing inlet (1). Install a tee at inlet (1), and connect the fuel line to the tee. Connect a pressure gauge to the
tee and start the engine.
Minimum fuel pressures must be 70 kPa (10 psi) at low idle and 170 kPa (25 psi) at full load speed (and
engine under full load).
If the fuel pressure is not above the minimum specifications, stop the engine. Make a replacement of the
primary and secondary fuel filters and check to make sure the fuel lines and hoses are not plugged or
damaged.
Start the engine and again check the fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is not above the minimum
specification, a repair or replacement of the fuel transfer pump is needed.
Checking Engine Cylinders Separately

An easy check can be made to find the cylinder that runs rough (misfires) and causes black smoke to come
out of the exhaust pipe.
Run the engine at the speed that is the roughest. Loosen the fuel line nut at a fuel injection pump. This will
stop the flow of fuel to that cylinder. Do this for each cylinder until a loosened fuel line is found that makes
no difference in engine performance. Be sure to tighten each fuel line nut after the test before the next fuel
line nut is loosened. Check each cylinder by this method. When a cylinder is found where the loosened fuel
line nut does not make a difference in engine performance, test the injection pump and fuel injection nozzle
for that cylinder.
Temperature of an exhaust manifold port, when an engine runs at low idle speed, can also be an indication of
the condition of a fuel injection nozzle. Low temperature at an exhaust manifold port is an indication of no
fuel to the cylinder. This can possibly be an indication of a nozzle with a defect. Extra high temperature at an
exhaust manifold port can be an indication of too much fuel to the cylinder, also caused by a nozzle with a
defect.
The most common defects found with the fuel injection nozzles are:
1. Steel wire brushing of nozzle tip.

2. Orifice wear.
NOTICE
Do not test nozzles unless you have the correct service tools.
Testing Fuel Injection Nozzles

NOTE: FT1743 is a standard fuel line used between the through head adapter and the nozzle. Bend the line
to position nozzle in a vertical position in the extension and collector.
NOTE: For more information on the 5P4150 Nozzle Testing Group, see Special Instruction Form No.
SEHS7292.
5P4150 Nozzle Testing Group

(1) Nozzle assembly. (A) FT1743 Line Assembly. (B) 5P4244 Adapter. (C) 5P4721 Tube Assembly. (D) 2P2324 Gauge 0 to 34
500 kPa (0 to 5000 psi). (E) 5P4146 Gauge 0 to 6900 kPa (0 to 1000 psi). (F) Gauge protector valve for 2P2324 Gauge. (G)
FT1384 Extension and 8S2270 Fuel Collector. (H) Gauge protector valve for 5P4146 Gauge. (J) Gauge protector valve (must be in
the open position at all times).

(K) Pump isolator valve. (L) On-Off valve.
NOTICE
Be sure to use clean SAE J967 Calibration Fluid when tests are made.
Dirty test fluid will damage components of fuel injection nozzles. The
temperature of the test fluid must be 18 to 24°C (65 to 75°F) for good
test results.
Nozzle Preparation for Test
Remove seal (3) and carbon dam (2) from the nozzle. Before fuel injection nozzle (1) can be tested, all loose
carbon around the tip of the nozzle must be removed with the 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush (M).
Removing Carbon Dam

(1) Fuel injection nozzle. (2) Carbon dam. (3) Seal.
NOTICE
Do not use a steel brush or a wire wheel to clean the nozzle body or the
nozzle tip. Use of these tools can cause a small reduction of orifice size,
and this will cause a large reduction in engine horsepower. Too much
use of the 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush will also remove the coating that is
on the nozzle for protection.
8S2245 Cleaning Kit

(M) 9S2258 Brass Wire Brush. (N) 6V4979 Carbon Seal Tool. (P) 8S2250 Nozzle Holding Tool.
Clean the groove for carbon seal dam (2) and the body of the nozzle below the groove with the 8S2258 Brass
Wire brush (M). Remove the carbon, but be sure not to use the brush enough to cause damage to the body of
the nozzle.
NOTE: A change in color in the area below the groove is normal and does not effect the body of the nozzle.
8N7006 Fuel Injection Nozzle Shown

(4) Bleed screw and seal.
Remove bleed screw and seal (4) from the nozzle.
NOTE: The bleed screw and seal must be removed for all tests except the Bleed Screw Leakage Test.
Test Sequence
NOTE: It is necessary to have an accurate record of the test results for each nozzle that is tested. Make a
record of the result for each nozzle test procedure on Form No. SEHS8144, NOZZLE TEST RECORD.
These test sheets are available in a pad of 50 sheets, order one Form SEHS8144.
The fuel Injection Nozzle can not be disassembled for cleaning or adjustment. Do the tests that follow to
determine if the nozzle performance is acceptable.
Valve Opening Pressure Test (VOP).Flush the Nozzle.Tip Leakage Test.Orifice Restriction Test.Bleed Screw
Leakage Test.
When fuel injection nozzles are tested, be sure to wear eye protection.
Test fluid comes from the orifices in the nozzle tip with high pressure.
The test fluid can pierce (go through) the skin and cause serious injury
to the operator. Keep the tip of the nozzle pointed away from the
operator and into the 8S2270 Collector and FT1384 Extension.
Valve Opening Pressure Test (VOP)
1. Install 5P4721 Tube Assembly (C), 5P4244 Adapter and FT1743 Line Assembly on the tester.
2. Install the fuel injection nozzle on tube (A). Be sure the nozzle is inside FT1384 Extension (G) and 8S2270
Fuel Collector.
Nozzle Ready For Test

(F) Gauge protector valve. (L) On-off valve. (K) Pump isolator valve.
NOTICE
Put a shop towel around the upper part of the nozzle to take in any fuel
leakage.
3. Close on-off valve (L). Open pump isolator valve (K).
4. Open gauge protector valve (F). Operate the pump to make a slow increase in pressure until the valve in
the fuel injection nozzle just starts to open. Read the maximum gauge pressure at the instant fluid flows from
the tip.
NOTE: It is possible for the pressure reading of the gauge to go down fast if the valve makes a noise
(chatters), when it opens. It is also possible for the pressure reading of the gauge to be almost constant when
the valve in the fuel injection nozzle opens.
NOTE: The valve in the fuel injection nozzle can be good and still not make noise (chatter), or not have a
very fine vapor (spray) from the orifices in the tip of the fuel injection nozzle during Step 4.
If the opening pressure is not within specifications, do not use the fuel injection nozzle again.
Flush The Nozzle
1. Close gauge protector valve (F). Close on-off valve (L). Open pump isolator valve (K).
NOTE: Make sure nozzle extends inside and below the top of FT1384 Extension (G).
2. Operate the pump rapidly for three full strokes.
Tip Leakage Test
1. Remove all fuel from the nozzle tip and body with a clean cloth.
2. Put a clean cloth around the body of the nozzle to take in any leakage from the bleed screw hole and
prevent any fuel leakage to drain down to the tip of the nozzle.
Nozzle Ready For Test

(F) Gauge protector valve. (L) On-off valve. (K) Pump isolator valve.
3. Open gauge protector valve (F). Close on-off valve (L). Open pump isolator valve (K).
4. Make and hold for 15 seconds a pressure of 1380 kPa (200 psi) less than the opening pressure measured in
VOP Test and make a note of the number of drops that fall.
5. If the nozzle is not within specifications, DO NOT USE THE NOZZLE.
Orifice Restriction Test
1. Close gauge protector valve (F) and on-off valve (L). Open pump isolator valve (K).
2. Point the tip of the fuel injection nozzle into the 8S2270 Fuel Collector and FT1384 Extension (G).
3. Make a rapid increase in pressure and look at the orifice discharge (shape of discharge).
The discharge must be the same through all six orifices. Any change either vertically or horizontally, is an
indication of a bad nozzle.
Good Nozzle (Use Again)

Typical Discharge For Orifice With A Restriction (Replacement Necessary)
Typical Discharge With Horizontal Distortion (Replacement Necessary)
Typical Discharge With Vertical Distortion (Replacement Necessary)
Bleed Screw Leakage Test
1. Install bleed screw and seal (4) in fuel injection nozzle. Tighten the bleed screw to a torque of 1.8 ± 0.2
N·m (16 ± 2 lb in) with 6V4980 Torque Driver.
NOTICE
Do not tighten the bleed screw more than the torque shown. The bleed
screw or seal can be damaged.
2. Put the tip of the fuel injection nozzle down inside the 8S2270 Fuel Collector and FT1384 Extension (G).
3. Close on-off valve (L). Open gauge protector valve (F) and pump isolator valve (K).
4. Pump the tester until fuel injection nozzle is full of fluid and the pressure on the gauge is 20 700 kPa (3000
psi).
NOTE: 15 or 20 strokes of the pump can be necessary for the pressure to get to 20 700 kPa (3000 psi).
5. If there is leakage, replace the sealing washer. Inspect the washer face of the bleed screw for damage,
install a new screw if necessary. Test the nozzle again. If there is still leakage, the fuel injection nozzle must
be replaced.
Installing Carbon Dam

(2) Carbon dam. (3) Seal. (N) 6V4979 Carbon Seal Tool.
6. If no fuel leakage is found, the fuel injection nozzle is acceptable. Put a new washer (3) on the nozzle.
Install a new carbon dam (2) in nozzle groove with 6V4979 Carbon Seal Tool (N).
NOTE: Make sure the correct washer (3) is used when the nozzle assembly is installed.
Fuel Injection Lines

Fuel from the fuel injection pumps goes to the fuel injection nozzles through the fuel injection lines.
When fuel injection lines are disconnected or removed, always put caps or plugs on the ends to keep dirt out
of the lines. When fuel injection lines are installed, be sure all clamps and dampers are installed in their
original location.
Fuel injection lines which are bent, damaged or rubbing can leak and
cause a fire. Replace any lines which have damage or leaks that can not
be corrected when tightened to the correct torque.
The nuts that hold a fuel injection line to an injection nozzle and injection pump must be tightened to the
correct torque. If the nut is loose, fuel will leak from the connection. If the nut is tightened too tight, the
inside diameter of the line will become smaller and cause a restriction to the flow of fuel in the line. Use a
torque wrench and a 5P144 Fuel Line Socket to tighten the fuel injection line nuts to 40 ± 7 N·m (30 ± 5 lb
ft).
Be sure the fuel injection line clamps are installed in the correct
location. Incorrectly installed clamps may allow the fuel injection lines
to vibrate and become damaged. The damaged lines may leak and cause
a fire.

(1) Vertical centerline through the number one fuel injection pump.
locations. Incorrectly installed clamps may allow the fuel injection lines
a fire.
NOTE: Clamp location dimensions are in reference to a vertical line (1) through the center of the number one
fuel pump outlet.
(A) ... 35 ± 13 mm (1.38 ± .51 in.)
(B) ... 20 ± 13 mm (.79 ± .51 in.)
(C) ... 165 ± 13 mm (6.49 ± .51 in.)
(D) ... 174 ± 13 mm (6.85 ± .51 in.)

NOTE: The clamp at dimension (D) is not used on earlier engines.
(E) ... 195 ± 13 mm (7.68 ± .51 in.)
(F) ... 329 ± 13 mm (12.95 ± .51 in.)
(G) ... 339 ± 13 mm (13.35 ± .51 in.)
(H) ... 457 ± 13 mm (17.99 ± .51 in.)
(J) ... 529 ± 13 mm (20.83 ± .51 in.)
(K) ... 584 ± 13 mm (22.99 ± .51 in.)
NOTE: The clamp at dimension (K) is not used on later engines.
(L) ... 709 ± 13 mm (27.91 ± .51 in.)
Checking The Plunger And Lifter Of An Injection Pump

NOTE: There are no different size spacers available to adjust the timing dimension of the fuel injection
pumps. If the pump plunger or the lifter is worn, they must be replaced. Because there is no adjustment to the
timing dimension possible, there is NO OFF ENGINE LIFTER SETTING PROCEDURE.
When there is too much wear on the fuel injection pump plunger, the lifter may also be worn and there will
not be good contact between the two parts. To stop fast wear on the end of a new plunger, install new lifters
in the place of the lifters that have wear.
Wear Between Lifter And Plunger

Fig. A. Illustrates the contact surfaces of a new pump plunger and a new lifter. In Fig. B the pump plunger and lifter have worn
considerably. Fig. C shows how the flat end of a new plunger makes poor contact with a worn lifter, resulting in rapid wear to both
parts.
An injection pump can have a good fuel flow coming from it but not be a good pump because of slow timing
that is caused by wear on the bottom end of the plunger. When making a test on a pump that has been used
for a long time, use a micrometer and measure the length of the plunger. If the length of the plunger is shorter
than the minimum length (worn) dimension given in the chart, install a new pump.
Look for wear at the top part of the plunger. Check the operation of the plunger according to the instructions
for the Fuel Injection Test Bench.
Removal And Installation Of Fuel Injection Pumps
Before the 6V7050 Compressor Group is used for the first time, or if the group has been disassembled, make
the following adjustment:
1. An injection pump that is to be used for this adjustment (or one that is to be removed or installed) must
have another injection pump installed next to it.
The second injection pump serves as the compressor mounting stud. If there are not two injection pumps next
to each other, install two injection pumps without the lifter springs. See Installation Of Fuel Injection Pumps
for the correct alignment of the pump at assembly.
Adjustment Of 6V7050 Compressor Group

(A) 6V7015 Clamp. (B) Bracket assembly. (C) 4B2046 Nut. (D) 5M7418 Nut. (E) 2N3476 Screw.
2. Put bracket assembly (B) over one of the pump bonnets.
3. Put the clamp ram on the center of the other injection pump bonnet with screw (E) in contact with the fuel
line seat.
NOTE: The 6V7015 Clamp (A) should not be locked down.
4. Install and tighten nut (D).
5. Adjust screw in or out until the top of bracket assembly (B) just starts to move when the clamp ram is
locked down.
6. Tighten nut (C) to hold screw (E) in position.
Removal of Fuel Injection Pumps
NOTICE
Before any parts are removed from the fuel injection pump housing,
thoroughly clean all dirt from the housing. Dirt that gets inside the
pump housing will cause much damage.
NOTE: The fuel rack must be in the center position before the fuel injection pumps can be removed or
installed. Follow Steps 1 through 3.
1. Remove the plug from the injection pump housing timing pin hole.
Fuel Injection Pump Housing

(1) 6V4186 Timing Pin. (2) 8S4613 Wrench. (3) 6V7050 Compressor Group. (4) Retainer bushing.
2. Move the governor lever to the SHUTOFF position, and install timing pin (1) as shown.
3. With the timing pin in position, move the governor lever to the high idle position. The fuel rack makes
contact with the timing pin. The fuel rack is now in the center position. Fasten the governor lever in the
HIGH IDLE position.
4. Remove the fuel injection line from the pump to be removed and also the fuel injection lines on each side
of the pump to be removed.
There is spring force on the fuel injection pump plunger and barrel
assembly. Removal of retainer bushing (4) without the 6V7050
Compressor Group correctly installed can cause bodily injury.
5. Use 8S4613 Wrench (2) to loosen bushing (4) one quarter turn. Do not remove the bushing at this time.
6. Install 6V7050 Compressor Group (3) on the pump housing over 8S4613 Wrench (2). Lower the screw in
the compressor ram to the fuel line seat before the nut is tightened to hold the compressor group in position.
This centers the compressor group.

7. Use 8S4613 Wrench (2) to loosen retainer bushing (4) until it is out of the threads. Slowly raise the
compressor tool handle to release the spring force.
(5) 8S2244 Extractor.
8. Remove the 6V7050 Compressor Group and the 8S4613 Wrench. Install 8S2244 Extractor (5) on the
injection pump threads. Carefully pull the pump straight up and out of the pump housing bore. Remove the
spacer from the pump housing bore.
Be careful when an injection pump is disassembled. Do not damage the surface on the plunger. The plunger
and barrel are made as a set. Do not put the plunger of one pump in the barrel of another pump. If one part is
worn, install a complete new pump assembly. Be careful when the plunger is put into the bore of the barrel.
When injection pumps are removed from the fuel injection pump housing, keep the parts together so they can
be installed in the same location in the housing.
Installation of Fuel Injection Pumps
NOTICE
The fuel rack MUST BE IN THE CENTER POSITION before the

correct installation of an injection pump is possible.
1. Put the fuel rack in the center position. Make reference to Removal of Fuel Injection Pumps.
Fuel Injection Pump Installation

(1) 8S2244 Extractor. (2) Pump barrel. (3) Gear segment.
2. Put 8S2244 Extractor (1) on the threads of the fuel injection pump.
3. Make sure the lifter for the pump to be installed is at the bottom of its travel (cam lobe is at its lowest
point).
4. Put the groove in barrel (2) in alignment with the slot (groove) in gear segment (3).
5. Be sure the spacer is in position in the pump housing bore.

Fuel Injection Pump Housing (Top View)
(4) Pin. (5) Dowel.
6. Carefully install the pump straight down into the pump housing bore.
NOTE: The slot (groove) in gear segment (3) must be in alignment with pin (4) in the side of the lifter and
the groove in barrel (2) must be in alignment with dowel (5) in the housing bore.

7. Remove the 8S2244 Extractor. Put the O-ring seal, retainer bushing (9) and 8S4613 Wrench (7) in position
on the top of the injection pump. Install 6V7050 Compressor Group (8).
8. Slowly move the handle of the 6V7050 Compressor Group down to push the injection pump into the bore.
NOTICE
The handle of the 6V7050 Compressor Group must move smoothly

down to the lock position. Do not force the handle if it stops. If the
handle does not move smoothly down to the lock position, raise the
handle, remove the 6V7050 Compressor Group, and repeat Steps 3
through 8.
9. Put the O-ring seal in position in the pump housing bore. Use the 8S4613 Wrench to install the retainer
bushing.
10. Remove the 6V7050 Compressor Group. Tighten the retainer bushing to 215 ± 15 N·m (160 ± 11 lb ft)
NOTICE
The bushing must be tightened to the correct torque. Damage to the

housing will be the result if the bushing is too tight. If the bushing is
not tight enough, the pump will have leakage.
11. Install the fuel injection lines to the pump and tighten to 40 ± 7 N·m (30 ± 5 lb ft). See Fuel Injection
Lines in this section.
locations. Incorrectly installed clamps may allow the fuel injection lines
a fire.
12. Remove 6V4186 Timing Pin (6) from the fuel injection pump housing and install the plug.
NOTICE
If one or more of the fuel injection pumps have been installed wrong, it
is possible for the engine to run out of control when started. When any
of the fuel injection pumps have been removed and installed with the
fuel injection pump housing on the engine, take the precautions (steps)
that follow to stop the engine if it starts to overspeed (run out of
control).
a. Remove the air cleaner pipe from the turbocharger leaving the air inlet open as shown.
Turbocharger Air Inlet Opening
b. Set the governor control at low idle.
Be careful when plate is put against air inlet opening. Due to excessive
suction, the plate can be pulled quickly against air inlet opening. To
avoid crushed fingers, do not put fingers between plate and air inlet
opening.
c. Start the engine, and if engine starts to overspeed (run out of control), put a steel plate over the air inlet as
shown to stop the engine.
Stopping The Engine
Finding Top Center Compression Position For No. 1 Piston
No. 1 piston at top center (TC) on the compression stroke is the starting point of all timing procedures.
NOTE: On some engines there are two threaded holes in the flywheel. These holes are in alignment with the
holes with plugs in the left and right front of the flywheel housing. The two holes in the flywheel are at a
different distance from the center of the flywheel so the timing bolt cannot be put in the wrong hole.
Locating Top Center (Left Side Of Engine)

(1) Timing bolt. (2) Timing bolt location. (3) Storage location.
1. The timing bolt (1) is kept in storage at location (3) and can be installed in either the left side of the engine
at location (2) or in the right side of the engine at location (4). Remove bolts and cover from flywheel
housing. Remove the plug from the timing hole in the flywheel housing.
Locating Top Center (Right Side Of Engine)

(4) Timing bolt location.
2. Put timing bolt (1) [long bolt that holds cover on the flywheel housing] through the timing hole in the
flywheel housing. Use the 9S9082 Engine Turning Tool and 1/2in. drive ratchet wrench to turn the engine
flywheel in the direction of normal engine rotation until the timing bolt engages with the threaded hole in the
flywheel.
Using 9S9082 Engine Turning Tool
(1) Timing bolt. (5) 9S9082 Engine Turning Tool.
NOTE: If the flywheel is turned beyond the point that the timing bolt engages in the threaded hole, the
flywheel must be turned opposite normal engine rotation approximately 30 degrees. Then turn the flywheel in
the direction of normal rotation until the timing bolt engages with the threaded hole. The reason for this
procedure is to make sure the play is removed from the gears when the No. 1 piston is put on top center.
3. Remove the front valve cover from the engine.
Checking No. 1 Intake And Exhaust Valves
4. The intake and exhaust valves for the No. 1 cylinder are closed if No. 1 piston is on the compression stroke
and the rocker arms can be moved by hand. If the rocker arms cannot be moved and the valves are slightly
open, the flywheel must be turned again. Remove the timing bolt and turn the flywheel in the direction of
normal engine rotation 360 degrees until the timing bolt can be installed. The No. 1 piston is now in the top
center compression position.
Checking Engine Timing With 8T5300 Timing Indicator Group And 8T5301 Diesel
Timing Adapter Group
8T5300 Timing Indicator Group

(1) 8T5250 Engine Timing Indicator. (2) 5P7366 Cable Assembly. (3) 6V2197 Magnetic Transducer. (4) 5P7362 Cable. (5)
6V2199 and 6V3093 Transducer Adapters. (6) 8K4644 Fuse.
The 8T5300 Timing Indicator Group must be used with the 8T5301 Diesel Timing Adapter Group.
8T5301 Diesel Timing Adapter Group
(7) 5P7437 Adapter. (8) 6V2198 Cable. (9) 5P7436 Adapter. (10) 6V7910 Transducer. (11) 5P7435 Adapter. (12) 6V3016 Washer.
A high pressure fuel line must be disconnected. To avoid personal

injury or fire from fuel spray, the engine must be stopped before the
fuel line is disconnected.
When checking the dynamic timing on an engine without a mechanical advance, Caterpillar recommends that
the serviceman calculate and graph the dynamic timing on a worksheet like Form No. SEHS8140. These
worksheets are available in pads of 50 sheets, order one Form No. SEHS8140. See Special Instruction Form
No. SEHS8580, for information required to calculate the timing curve.
After the timing values are calculated and plotted, the dynamic timing should be checked with the 8T5300
Engine Timing Indicator Group. To do this, the serviceman must operate the engine from 1000 rpm (base
rpm) to high idle and from high idle to 1000 rpm (base rpm). Unstable readings are often obtained below
1000 rpm. He must record the dynamic timing at each 100 rpm and at the specified speeds during both
acceleration and deceleration. Then he should plot the results on the worksheet.
Inspection of the plotted value will show if the timing is within specifications. See Special Instruction, Form
No. SEHS8580 for information required to calculate the timing.
1. See the Engine Information Plate for the performance specification number and make reference to the Fuel
Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct timing specifications to use.
2. Make reference to Operation Instructions inside the lid of the 8T5300 Timing Indicator (1) or Special
Instruction Form No. SEHS8580 for complete instructions and calibration.
The engine must be stopped before the timing indicator group is

installed. A high pressure fuel line must be disconnected and a probe
must be installed against the flywheel.
Transducer In Position (Typical Example)
(10) Injection transducer. (13) Fuel injection line for No. 6 cylinder.
3. Loosen all fuel line clamps that hold No. 1 fuel injection line, and disconnect fuel injection line (13) for the
No. 1 cylinder at the fuel injection pump. Slide the nut up and out of the way. Put 5P7436 Adapter (9) in its
place and turn adapter (9) onto the fuel pump bonnet until the top of the bonnet threads are approximately
even with the bottom of the "window" in the adapter.
4. Put the 5P7435 Tee Adapter (11) on the injection transducer (10), and put the end of the 5P7435 Tee
Adapter (11). Install 5P7437 Adapter (7), and tighten to 40 N·m (30 lb ft).
5. Put fuel injection line (13) on top of 5P7435 Tee Adapter (11). Install 5P7437 Adapter (7), and tighten to
40 N·m (30 lb ft).
6. Remove the plug from the flywheel housing. Install transducer adapter (5) into the hole the plug was
removed from. Tighten only a small amount.
Transducer In Position
(3) TDC magnetic transducer. (5) Transducer adapter.
7. Push magnetic transducer (3) into the pipe adapter (5) until it makes contact with the flywheel. Pull it back
out 1.5 mm (.06 in.) and lightly tighten the knurled locknut.
8. Connect the cables from the transducers to Engine Timing Indicator (1). Calibrate and make adjustments.
For calibration procedure, make reference to Special Instruction Form No. SEHS8580.
9. Start the engine, and let it reach operating temperature. Then run the engine at approximately one-half
throttle for eight to ten minutes before measuring timing.
10. Run the engine at the speeds required, and record the timing indicator readings. If the engine timing is not
correct, make reference to Checking Engine Timing By Timing Pin Method for static adjustment of the fuel
injection pump drive.
Front Of Engine
(14) Access cover for governor and fuel pump drive group.
Checking Engine Timing By Timing Pin Method

1. Put No. 1 piston at top center on the compression stroke. Make reference to Finding Top Center
Compression Position For No. 1 PISTON. Remove the timing bolt from the flywheel, and use 9S9082 Engine
Turning Tool to rotate the crankshaft clockwise 30° as seen from the flywheel end of the engine.
Fuel Injection Pump

(1) Plug (timing pin hole).
2. Remove plug (1) from the fuel injection pump housing.
Timing Pin Installed

(2) 6V4186 Timing Pin.
3. Install 6V4186 Timing Pin (2) in the fuel injection pump housing as shown. Slowly rotate the crankshaft
counterclockwise (as seen from the flywheel end of the engine) until timing pin (2) goes into the groove in
the fuel pump camshaft.
4. Put the timing bolt in the timing hole in the flywheel housing. If the bolt can be installed in the timing hole
in the flywheel, the timing of the fuel injection pump is correct.
5. If the timing bolt does not go into the timing hole in the flywheel, the timing is not correct. Do the steps
that follow to adjust the fuel injection pump timing.
Front Of Engine
(3) Access cover for governor and fuel pump drive group.
a. Remove cover (3).

Governor And Fuel Pump Drive Group
(4) Bolts.
b. Loosen four bolts (4).
c. With timing pin (2) installed and the timing bolt removed, turn the flywheel clockwise (opposite the
direction of engine rotation) a minimum of 30 degrees. The reason for this step is to remove play from the
timing gears when the engine is put on top center (TC).
d. Tighten bolts (4) evenly to a torque of 3 N·m (27 lb in). This puts a slight clamping force on the gear for
the next step.
e. Turn the flywheel slowly in the direction of engine rotation until the timing bolt can be installed in the
flywheel. The number one piston of the engine is now at top center (TC).
f. Tighten four bolts (4) to a torque of 55 ± 7 N·m (41 ± 5 lb ft). Remove the timing bolt from the flywheel
and timing pin (2) from the fuel injection pump housing.
6. Turn the flywheel clockwise (opposite the direction of normal engine rotation) a minimum of 30 degrees.
Now, turn the flywheel in the direction of engine rotation and again check to see that the timing pin will go
into camshaft groove (notch) and the timing bolt will go into the flywheel.
7. If the timing is not correct, do the procedure of Steps 5b through 5f again.
8. If the timing is correct, remove the timing bolt from the flywheel and the timing pin from the fuel injection
pump housing. Install cover (3) and plug (1).
Fuel Setting Procedure
6V6070 Governor Adjusting Tool Group
NOTE: If the 8T1000 Electronic Position Indicator Group is used, make reference to Special Instruction
Form No. SEHS8623 for information on the use of the tool group.
The fuel setting procedure can be used with the fuel injection pump and governor on or off the engine.
Fuel Injection Pump And Governor

(1) Cover (rack position indicator). (2) Plug (rack centering pin).
1. Remove plug (2) and cover (1) from the fuel injection pump housing.
Indicator And Centering Pin Installed

(3) 6V4186 Timing Pin. (4) 6V6109 Bracket Assembly. (5) 2A0762 Bolt [1/4-20 NC x 15.88 mm (.625 in.)]. (6) 8H9178 Ground
Body Bolt [1/4-20 NC x 25.4 mm (1.00 in.)]. (7) 5P4814 Collet. (8) 6V6106 Dial Indicator.
NOTE: If the 8T1000 Position Indicator Group is used instead of the dial indicator, use Step 3 for the
installation of the probe.
2. Install the rack position indicator as follows:
a. Install the 5P4814 Collet (7) on the 6V6109 Bracket Assembly (4).
Slot In Fuel Injection Pump Rack
(9) Slot.
b. Position the indicator arm in approximately the middle of its travel to make sure that it will engage in slot
(9) in the rack. Put 6V6109 Bracket Assembly (4) in position on the fuel injection pump housing.
c. Install 8H9178 Ground Body Bolt (6) first. Then install 2A0762 Bolt (5).
d. Be sure the indicator arm moves freely.
e. Put indicator (8) in position in collet (7).
f. Put the 9S8903 Contact Point on the 6V2030 Extension and install on indicator (8).
NOTE: The 9S8903 Contact Point will not go through the collet and must be assembled after the indicator
stem has passed through the collet.
g. Tighten collet (7) just enough to hold the dial indicator.
3. Install the rack position probe as follows:
e. Put probe (A) in position in collet (7).
f. Put the 9S8903 Contact Point on the 6V2030 Extension and install on probe (A).
g. Adjust probe (A) in collet (7) so that the shaft can be moved through the entire measurement range without
reaching the end of the shaft travel. Tighten the collet.
Probe And Centering Pin Installed

Body Bolt. [1/4-20 NC x 25.4 mm (1.00 in.)]. (7) 5P4814 Collet. (A) 8T1002 Probe.
4. Remove the shutoff solenoid, if so equipped, or cover and install the 6V6151 Adapter (10).
Position Fuel Injection Pump Rack
(10) 6V6151 Adapter. (11) 6V7942 Hook.
5. Move the governor control lever to the "LOW IDLE" position (rotate governor shaft counterclockwise).
6. Install the 6V4186 Timing Pin (3) in the top of the fuel injection pump housing. Push the timing pin in
until contact with the fuel rack is made.
7. Use 6V7942 Hook (11) through 6V6151 Adapter (10) to push the sleeve and rack to the "SHUTOFF"
position. Make sure timing pin (3) engages in slot (9).
Push Rack To Shutoff

(11) 6V7942 Hook. (12) Servo valve.
8. Move the governor control lever to the "FULL LOAD" position (rotate governor shaft clockwise) and
fasten it in this position.
Pull Rack Against Timing Pin

(11) 6V7942 Hook. (12) Servo valve.
9. Use the 6V7942 Hook (11) to pull the sleeve and rack [through servo valve (12)] against the timing pin.
Fuel Rack Against Timing Pin

10. Adjust the 6V6106 Dial Indicator (8) in the collet to zero and tighten the collet. Make sure all needles of
the indicator are on zero.
NOTE: If the Electronic Position Indicator Group is used, press the ZERO switch on the front panel. This
sets the display to zero.
11. Remove the 6V4186 Timing Pin (3), 6V7942 Hook and release the governor control lever.
6V7941 Compressor Assembly

(13) Rod.
12. Turn rod (13) in the 6V7941 Compressor Assembly until the knob is approximately 25.4 mm (1.00 in.)
away from the compressor body.
NOTE: The 6V7941 Compressor Assembly is used to compress the overfueling spring through the linkage.
The overfueling spring must be compressed to get an accurate fuel setting measurement.
Install The 6V7941 Compressor Assembly

(10) 6V6151 Adapter. (14) 6V7941 Compressor Assembly.
13. Install compressor assembly (14) in adapter (10) as shown.
Static Fuel Setting

(13) Rod (part of 6V7941 Compressor Assembly). (15) 8T500 Circuit Tester. (16) Insulated terminal.
NOTE: Some engines have a torque spring and some do not. Because of this difference, separate procedures
are needed to check and adjust the fuel setting. Be sure to use the correct procedure for the fuel system that is
being worked on. The Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche has the information needed to determine
which type of fuel system is on the engine.
Fuel System With a Torque Spring
1. Fasten the clip end of the 8T500 Circuit Tester (15) to insulated terminal (16), and put the other end to a
good electrical ground.
NOTE: If the Electronic Position Indicator Group is used, the built-in continuity tester can be used instead of
8T500 Circuit Tester (15). Use the built-in tester only for static readings.
2. Hold the governor control lever in the "FULL LOAD" position (rotate governor shaft clockwise).
3. Turn rod (13) of compressor assembly in (clockwise) until the light in circuit tester (15) goes off and the
dial indicator hands move an additional 2 mm in the negative (-) direction after the light goes out (2 complete
revolutions of the large needle on the dial indicator).
NOTICE
DO NOT turn the rod any further in if the rod begins to tighten.
Damage to the governor can occur if the rod is turned in further.
NOTE: The static fuel setting (Step 5) and the static full torque setting (Step (6) must be within ± .25 mm of
the setting on the Engine Information Plate. If the setting is within ± .25 mm an adjustment is not necessary.
If the Engine Information Plate is gone or the FULL TORQUE SETTING is not on the Engine Information
Plate, see Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct settings.
4. Remove adjustment screw cover (17) from the rear of the governor housing.
5. Slowly turn rod (13) out (counterclockwise) until the circuit tester light just comes on. This is the static fuel
setting. See the Engine Information Plate or the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct
static fuel setting.
NOTE: When the rod is turned out, there can be a small initial movement of the dial indicator hands, then,
they will stop moving while the rod is turned out for approximately another 1 1/2 turns. Now the indicator
hands will begin to move again and will follow the turning of the rod until the setting is reached. It is
important that the rod be turned slowly so that the rack can follow the governor components.
NOTE: If rod (13) is turned out too fast, a wrong measurement can be read on the dial indicator as the light
comes on. Repeat Steps 3 and 5 to make sure the correct measurement is taken.
6. Continue to turn the rod out until the indicator hand stops moving. Then turn the rod out two additional
turns. Push in on the rack stop collar to make sure it is in the correct position. The new reading on the
indicator is the full torque static setting.
This means the torque rise setting is 1.00 mm. An addition of the fuel setting and the torque rise setting is not
necessary.
7. See the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct static full torque setting. On later
engines the full torque static setting is on the Engine Information Plate.
8. Determine how much the settings will have to be changed (see examples). Use the chart that follows to
determine how far the adjusting screws must be turned.
Adjustment Of Governor
(17) Adjustment screw cover.
Since "desired setting" is higher than "actual reading," turn adjusting screw out (counterclockwise)
approximately 1/4 turn. Recheck the new setting and readjust if necessary.
Since "desired setting" is lower than "actual reading," turn the adjusting screw in (clockwise) approximately
1 1/8 turns. Recheck the new setting and readjust if necessary.
Negative numbers work differently than positive numbers. If one number (-1.25) has a larger digital value
than another one (-1.05), the first number (-1.25) is actually less than the other one. Therefore, in this
example the "desired setting" is lower than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw in (clockwise)
The "desired setting" is higher than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw out (counterclockwise)
approximately 1 1/8 turns. Recheck the new setting and readjust if necessary.
The "desired setting" is lower than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw in approximately 2 7/8
turns.
The "desired setting" is higher than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw out approximately 2 7/8
turns.
Adjustment Of Fuel Setting

(18) Fuel setting screw. (19) 6V2106 Rack Adjustment Tool Group.
Adjustment Of Full Torque Setting
(19) 6V2106 Rack Adjustment Tool Group. (20) Torque rise setting screw.
NOTE: If you are working from the side of the engine and cannot see the adjusting screws, use the outer
edge of the opening in the governor housing to guide the 6V2106 Tool Group onto the fuel setting screw. Use
the inner edge of the opening to guide the 6V2106 Tool Group onto the full torque setting adjustment screw.
9. If both settings are to be increased, turn torque rise adjustment screw (20) out (counterclockwise) the same
number of turns as fuel setting adjustment screw (18) is going to be changed. If the static fuel setting is going
to be decreased, it is not necessary to change the full torque setting at this time.
10. Use 6V2106 Rack Adjustment Tool Group (19) to loosen the locknuts for adjustment screws and to turn
the adjustment screws.
11. Adjust the fuel setting screw the number of turns determined in Step 8. Always recheck the setting after
each adjustment and adjust again if needed.
NOTE: There is a zero tolerance for the fuel setting and full torque setting when an adjustment is made.
12. After the static fuel setting is correct, adjust the torque rise adjustment screw the number of turns
determined in Step 8. Always recheck the setting after each adjustment and adjust again if needed.
Fuel System Without a Torque Spring
1. Fasten the clip end of the 8T500 Circuit Tester (15) to insulated terminal (16), and put the other end to a
good electrical ground.
NOTE: If the Electronic Position Indicator Group is used, the built-in continuity tester can be used instead of
8T500 Circuit Tester (15). Use the built-in tester only for static readings.
2. Hold the governor control lever in the "FULL LOAD" position (rotate governor shaft clockwise).
3. Turn rod (13) of compressor assembly in (clockwise) until the light in circuit tester (15) goes off and the
dial indicator hands move an additional 2 mm in the negative (-) direction after the light goes out (2 complete
revolutions of the large needle on the dial indicator).
NOTICE
DO NOT turn the rod any further in if the rod begins to tighten.
Damage to the governor can occur if the rod is turned in further.
NOTE: The static fuel setting (Step 4) must be within ± .25 mm of the setting on the Engine Information
Plate. If the setting is within ± .25 mm an adjustment is not necessary. If the Engine Information Plate is gone
or the Static Fuel Setting is not on the Engine Information Plate, see Fuel Setting And Related Information
Fiche for the correct setting.
4. Slowly turn rod (13) out (counterclockwise) until the circuit tester light just comes on. This is the static fuel
setting. See the Engine Information Plate or the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct
static fuel setting.
NOTE: When the rod is turned out, there can be a small initial movement of the dial indicator hands, then,
they will stop moving while the rod is turned out for approximately another 1 1/2 turns. Now the indicator
hands will begin to move again and will follow the turning of the rod until the setting is reached. It is
important that the rod be turned slowly so that the rack can follow the governor components.
NOTE: If rod (13) is turned out too fast, a wrong measurement can be read on the dial indicator as the light
comes on. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 to make sure the correct measurement is taken.
Adjustment Of Governor
(17) Adjustment screw cover.
5. If the fuel setting is not correct, remove adjustment screw cover (17) from the rear of the governor housing.
6. Determine how much the setting will have to be changed (see examples). Use the chart that follows to
determine how far the adjusting screw must be turned.
Since "desired setting" is higher than "actual reading," turn adjusting screw out (counterclockwise)
Since "desired setting" is lower than "actual reading," turn the adjusting screw in (clockwise) approximately
1 1/8 turns. Recheck the new setting and readjust if necessary.
Negative numbers work differently than positive numbers. If one number (-1.25) has a larger digital value
than another one (-1.05), the first number (-1.25) is actually less than the other one. Therefore, in this
example the "desired setting" is lower than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw in (clockwise)
The "desired setting" is higher than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw out (counterclockwise)
approximately 1 1/8 turns. Recheck the new setting and readjust if necessary.
The "desired setting" is lower than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw in approximately 2 7/8
turns.
The "desired setting" is higher than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw out approximately 2 7/8
turns.
Adjustment Of Fuel Setting
(18) Fuel setting screw. (19) 6V2106 Rack Adjustment Tool Group.
NOTE: If you are working from the side of the engine and cannot see the adjusting screw, use the outer edge
of the opening in the governor housing to guide the 6V2106 Tool Group onto the fuel setting screw.
7. Use 6V2106 Rack Adjustment Tool Group (19) to loosen the locknut for the adjustment screw and to turn
the adjustment screw.
8. Adjust the fuel setting screw the number of turns determined in Step 6. Always recheck the setting after
each adjustment and adjust again if needed.
NOTE: There is a zero tolerance for the fuel setting when an adjustment is made.
Engine Speed Measurement
The 6V3121 Multitach Group can measure engine speed from a tachometer drive on the engine. It also has
the ability to measure engine speed from visual engine parts in rotation.
Special Instruction Form No. SEHS7807 is with the 6V3121 Multitach Group and gives instructions for the
test procedure.
6V3121 Multitach Group

(1) Carrying case. (2) Power cable. (3) Tachometer generator. (4) Tachometer drive group. (5) Multitach.
The 6V4950 Injection Line Speed Pickup Group is another diagnostic tool accessory that can be used with the
6V2100 Multitach. It can be used on all Caterpillar Diesel Engines equipped with 6 mm (.25 in.) single wall
fuel injection lines. With this pickup group, engine speed can be measured quickly, automatically and with an
accuracy of ± 1 rpm.
6V4950 Injection Line Speed Pickup Group
(6) 6V6114 Pickup. (7) 6V6113 Amplifier.
Special Instruction Form No. SEHS8029 is with the group and gives instructions for use for the 6V4950
Injection line Speed Pickup Group.
Governor Adjustments
NOTICE
A mechanic with training in governor adjustments is the only one to

make the adjustment to the set point rpm.
Engine rpm must be checked with an accurate tachometer. Make reference to ENGINE SPEED
MEASUREMENT.
Low Idle Adjustment
NOTE: The correct LOW IDLE rpm is given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.
To help prevent an accident caused by parts in rotation, work carefully

around an engine that has been started.
Start the engine and run until the temperature of normal operation is reached. Check low idle rpm with no
load on the engine. If an adjustment is necessary, use the procedure that follows:
Low Idle Adjustment

(1) Low idle stop screw.
1. To adjust the LOW IDLE rpm, start the engine and run with the governor control lever in the low idle
position. Loosen the locknut for low idle screw (1). Turn the low idle screw to get the correct low idle rpm.
Increase engine speed and return to low idle and check low idle speed again. Tighten the locknut.
Checking Set Point (Balance Point)
The engine set point is an adjusted specification and is important to the correct operation of the engine. High
idle rpm is NOT an adjusted specification. Set point (formerly balance point) is full load rpm plus an
additional 20 rpm. Set point is the rpm at which the fuel setting adjustment screw and stop or first torque
spring just start to make contact. At this rpm, the fuel setting adjustment screw and stop or first torque spring
still have movement between them. When additional load is put on the engine, the fuel setting adjustment
screw and stop or first torque spring will become stable against each other. Set point is controlled by the fuel
setting and the high idle adjustment screw.
There is a new and more accurate method for checking the "setpoint," formerly called the balance point, of
the engine. If the tools for the new method are not available, there is an alternate method for checking the "set
point."
The 6V4060 Engine Set Point Indicator Group with the 6V2100 Multitach can be used to check the set point.
Special Instruction Form No. SEHS7931 gives instructions for installation and use of this tool group.
6V4060 Engine Set Point Indicator Group
Alternate Method
NOTE: Do not use the vehicle tachometer unless its accuracy is know to be within ± 1 rpm.
If the set point is correct and the high idle speed is within specifications, the fuel system operation of the
engine is correct. The set point for the engine is:
A. At 20 rpm greater than full load speed.

B. The rpm where the fuel setting adjustment screw stop or first torque spring just make contact.
Use the procedure that follows to check the set point. Make reference to Techniques For Loading Engines in
Special Instruction Form No. SEHS7050.
1. Connect a tachometer which has good accuracy to the tachometer drive.

Terminal Location
(2) Brass terminal screw.
2. Connect the clip end of the 8T500 Circuit Tester to the brass terminal screw (2) on the governor housing.
Connect the other end of the tester to a place on the fuel system which is a good ground connection.
Work carefully around an engine that is running. Engine parts that are
hot, or parts that are moving, can cause personal injury.
3. Start the engine.
4. With the engine at normal conditions for operation, run the engine at high idle.
5. Make a record of the speed of the engine at high idle.
6. Add load on the engine slowly until the circuit tester light just comes on (minimum light output). This is
the set point.
7. Make a record of the speed (rpm) at the set point.
8. Repeat Step 6 several times to make sure that the reading is correct.
9. Stop the engine. Make a comparison of the records from Steps 6 and 7 with Full Load Speed from the
Engine Information Plate. If the Engine Information Plate is not available, see the Fuel Setting And Related
Information Fiche. The tolerance for the set points is ± 10 rpm. The tolerance for the high idle rpm is ± 50
rpm in chassis and ± 30 rpm on a bare engine. If the readings from Steps 5 and 7 are within the tolerance, no
adjustment is needed.
NOTE: Later model engines have the actual Dyno High Idle stamped on the Engine Information Plate. It is
possible, in some applications that the high idle rpm will be less than the actual lower limit. This can be
caused by high parasitic loads such as hydraulic pumps, compressors, etc.
Adjusting Set Point (Balance Point)
1. If the set point and the high idle rpm are within tolerance, no adjustment is to be made.
2. If the set point rpm is not correct, remove cover (3).

Remove Cover
(3) Cover.
Set Point Adjustment

(4) Locknut. (5) Adjustment screw.
3. Loosen locknut (4) and turn adjustment screw (5) to adjust the set point to the midpoint of the tolerance.
4. When the set point is correct, check the high idle rpm. The high idle rpm must not be more than the high
limit of the tolerance.
If the high idle rpm is more than the high limit of the tolerance, check the governor spring and flyweights. If
the high idle rpm is less than the low limit of the tolerance, check for excess parasitic loads and then the
governor spring and flyweights.
Dashpot Adjustment
Adjustment Of Dashpot
(1) Needle Valve.
This adjustment controls the amount of restriction to oil flow into and out of the dashpot chamber. Too much
oil flow will cause the governor to hunt, and too little oil flow will cause a slow governor action.
1. Turn needle valve (1) in (clockwise) until it stops. Now, open needle valve (1) two full turns
(counterclockwise). The exact point of adjustment is where the governor gives the best performance.
NOTE: Do not keep needle valve (1) fully closed. This can cause excessive overshoot on start up or load
rejection.
2. Check governor operation.
With the engine running at medium (mid) speed, load the engine (at least one-quarter load) to find the
stability of the setting. Quickly remove the load. A slight overshoot of speed is desired, as it reduces response
time. The engine speed should return to smooth steady operation. If it does not have a slight overshoot and
return to a smooth steady operation, adjust the needle valve and repeat the above procedure.
Fuel System Identification (3406)
Governor And Fuel Injection Pump Group

(1) Location of stamped part number for Governor and Fuel Injection Pump Groups.
3406 Fuel System

Either too much fuel or not enough fuel for combustion can be the cause of a problem in the fuel system.
Many times work is done on the fuel system when the problem is really with some other part of the engine.
The source of the problem is difficult to find, especially when smoke comes from the exhaust. Smoke that
comes from the exhaust can be caused by a bad fuel injection valve, but it can also be caused by one or more
of the reasons that follow:
a. Not enough air for good combustion.

b. An overload at high altitude.
c. Oil leakage into combustion chamber.
d. Not enough compression.
e. Fuel injection timing retarded.
Fuel System Inspection
A problem with the components that send fuel to the engine can cause low fuel pressure. This can decrease
engine performance.
1. Check the fuel level in the fuel tank. Look at the cap for the fuel tank to make sure the vent is not filled
with dirt.
2. Check the fuel lines for fuel leakage. Be sure the fuel supply line does not have a restriction or a bad bend.
3. Install a new fuel filter. Clean the primary fuel filter if so equipped.
4. Remove any air that may be in the fuel system. If there is air in the fuel system, use the priming pump and
loosen the nuts holding the fuel lines to the outside of the cylinder head, one at a time. Do this until fuel,
without air, comes from the fuel line connection.
5. Inspect the fuel bypass valve to see that there is no restriction to good operation.
Checking Engine Cylinders Separately

An easy check can be made to find the cylinder that runs rough (misfires) and causes black smoke to come
out of the exhaust pipe.
Run the engine at the speed that is the roughest. Loosen the fuel line nut at a fuel injection pump. This will
stop the flow of fuel to that cylinder. Do this for each cylinder until a loosened fuel line is found that makes
no difference in engine performance. Be sure to tighten each fuel line nut after test before the next fuel line
nut is loosened.
Check each cylinder by this method. When a cylinder is found where the loosened fuel line nut does not make
a difference in engine performance, test the injection pump and injection valve for that cylinder.
Temperature of an exhaust manifold port, when the engine runs at low idle speed, can also be an indication of
the condition of a fuel injection valve. Low temperature at an exhaust manifold port is an indication of no fuel
to the cylinder. This can possibly be an indication of an injection valve with a defect. Extra high temperature
at an exhaust manifold port can be an indication of too much fuel to the cylinder, also caused by an injection
valve with a defect.
The most common defects found with the fuel injection valves are:
1. Carbon on tip of the nozzle or in the nozzle orifice.

2. Orifice wear.
3. Dirty nozzle screen.
Testing Capsule-Type Fuel Injection Nozzles

NOTICE
Be sure to use clean SAE J967 Calibration fluid when tests are made.
Dirty test fluid will damage components of fuel injection nozzles. The
temperature of the test fluid must be 18 to 24°C (65 to 75°F) for good
test results.

(A) 5P4721 Tube. (B) 5P4146 Gauge, 0 to 6900 kPa (0 to 1000 psi) used to test PC capsule-type nozzles. (C) 2P2324 Gauge, 0 to
34 500 kPa (0 to 5000 psi) used to test DI capsule-type nozzles and pencil-type nozzles. (D) Gauge protector valve for 5P4146
Gauge (B). (E) Gauge protector valve for 2P2324 Gauge (C). (F) On-off valve. (G) Pump isolator valve. (H) 5P4720 Fitting. (J)
5P8744 Adapter for capsule-type nozzles. (K) 5P4244 Adapter for pencil-type nozzles.
NOTE: For more information on the 5P4150 Nozzle Testing Group see, Special Instruction, Form No.
SEHS7292.
Extra Valve
(L) Gauge protector valve (must be in open position at all times).
The test procedures that follow will give an indication of nozzle condition. A nozzle that has a defect is BF
not always the only cause for a specific engine problem.
Nozzle Tester Preparation
Illustration I
(1) Test nozzle (welded orifice). (2) Bottom part of 5P8744 Adapter (J). (J) 5P8744 Adapter. (M) FT1384 Extension. (N) 8S2270
Fuel Collector.
Find an old capsule-type fuel nozzle and weld the orifice closed. Keep this fuel nozzle with the tester group
for use in the future.
NOTE: Do not weld the fuel nozzles that are to be tested.
Illustration I shows the latest 5P8744 Adapter. Illustration II shows the former 5P4717 Adapter. Unless some
indication is made, the procedure is the same for the use of either adapter.
Illustration II
(1) Test nozzle (welded orifice). (2) Bottom part of 5P4717 Adapter (J). (J) 5P4717 Adapter.
1. Install the top part of adapter (J) that holds the capsule nozzle.
2. Put test nozzle (1) (with welded orifice) in the bottom part (2) of adapter (J) that holds the capsule nozzle.
Install and tighten bottom part (2) to top part of adapter (J).
3. Close on-off valve (F). Open pump isolator valve (G). Open gauge protector valve (E).
4. Operate the tester pump until a pressure of 24 000 kPa (3500 psi) is read on 2P2324 Gauge (C). Now, close
pump isolator valve (G).
5. Check all connections for leaks. Tighten connections to stop any leaks that are found. 6. Open on-off valve
(F) and remove test (welded) fuel nozzle (1).
Do not loosen the bottom half of the adapter to remove fuel nozzle until
on-off valve is opened and no pressure is read on the gauge. Unless high
pressure is released in the pump, the fluid discharge from the adapter
can cause injury to the operator.
NOTE: To prevent fuel leakage, the top surface of the test (welded) nozzle, and all other nozzles that are to
be tested, must be free of scratches or burrs (sharp edges).
The procedure for NOZZLE TESTER PREPARATION must be done each time any of the conditions that
follow exist:
a. The complete 5P8744 Adapter is removed and installed again.

b. Before and after a series of tests.
c. There is an indication of a problem with the nozzle tester.
Test Sequence - Direct Injection (DI) Fuel Nozzle

It is necessary to have an accurate record of the test results for each nozzle that is tested. Make a record of the
result for each nozzle test procedure on Form No. SEHS8144, Nozzle Test Record. These test sheets are
available in a pad of 50 sheets, order one Form No. SEHS8144.
To test DI capsule-type fuel nozzles, use the sequence that follows:
Nozzle InstallationPressure Loss TestValve Opening Pressure (VOP) TestFlush the NozzleTip Leakage
TestOrifice Restriction Test
NOTICE
Do not use a steel brush or a wire wheel to clean the nozzle body or
nozzle tip. Use of these tools can cause a small reduction of orifice size.
This will cause a large reduction in engine horsepower. Too much use
of the 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush will also remove the coating that is on
the nozzle for protection.
Nozzle Installation
1. Put one of the nozzles to be tested in the bottom part (2) of adapter (J). Install and tighten bottom part (2) to
top part of adapter (J).
2. Close on-off valve (F). Open gauge protector valve (E), one-half turn. Open pump isolator valve (G) one-
half turn.
Tester Nomenclature
(C) 2P2324 Gauge, 0 to 34 500 kPa (0 to 5000 psi). (E) Gauge protector valve. (F) On-off valve. (G) Pump isolator valve.
3. Bleed (remove) air from the tester as follows:
a. Loosen bottom part (2) of adapter (J) one-half turn.
b. Operate the pump until clear test fluid (free of air bubbles) leaks past the threads at top of adapter (J).
Air Removal From Tester
(2) Bottom part of adapter (J). (J) 5P8744 Adapter.
NOTE: With some 5P8744 Adapters, pressure may start to increase before there is an indication of clear test
fluid. To correct this condition, do step c.
c. Tighten bottom part (2) of adapter (J).
NOTE: The 5P8744 Adapter makes its own seal, and normally needs very little force when turned on bottom
part (2) of the adapter. It is possible, however, that it will be necessary to use a 1P2853 Spanner Wrench and
a 1 1/8 in. open end wrench to tighten the adapter to prevent excessive leakage from some DI fuel nozzles.
Pressure Loss Test
1. Open gauge protector valve (E) an extra amount of one-half turn (the total amount is now one turn open).
Tester Nomenclature
2. Operate pump to increase pressure slowly to 15 200 kPa (2200 psi), and close pump isolator valve (G).
Now turn gauge protector valve (E) to adjust pressure again to 15 200 kPa (2200 psi).
NOTE: If it is not possible to reach the 15 200 kPa (2200 psi) pressure with FOUR FULL RAPID
STROKES of the pump handle, stop the test. Do not use the nozzle.
3. After 30 seconds, take a pressure reading from the gauge. The pressure reading at this time must be 13 800
kPa (2000 psi) or less.
4. If the pressure loss is not within the range shown as GOOD [13 800 kPa (200psi)], stop the test sequence.
Do not use the fuel nozzle again.
Pressure Loss Range For A Good Nozzle
5. If nozzle is in the specification range, see Valve Opening Pressure (VOP) Test.
Valve Opening Pressure (VOP) Test
1. Open pump isolator valve (G) one-half turn.
Tester Nomenclature
2. Operate the pump to increase the pressure slowly until test oil comes from the nozzle tip.
3. The pressure reading on the gauge at this time must be in the pressure range that follows:
VOP Range For A Good Nozzle
4. If the valve opening pressure (VOP) is not in the 16 550 to 21 390 kPa (2400 to 3100 psi) range shown as
GOOD, do not use the fuel nozzle again.
5. If the fuel nozzle is within specification range, see subject Flush The Nozzle.
Flush the Nozzle
1. Close gauge protector valve (E).
NOTE: Make sure the nozzle tip extends inside and below the top of FT1384 Extension.
2. Operate the pump rapidly three full strokes.
3. Open gauge protector valve (E).
Tester Nomenclature
Tip Leakage Test
1. Remove all fuel from the nozzle tip and adapter with a cloth. Put a clean cloth around the lower part of the
adapter to catch any outside leakage that may run down to the tip.
2. Open gauge protector valve (E). Be sure the nozzle tip is completely dry.
3. Increase pressure to between 3450 and 6900 kPa (500 to 1000 psi). Hold this pressure for 30 seconds.
4. If the nozzle is not within specifications, do not use the nozzle again.
5. If fuel injection nozzle is within specification, see subject Orifice Restriction Test.
Orifice Restriction Test
1. Close gauge protector valves (D), (E), and on-off valve (F). Open pump isolator valve (G).
2. Point the tip of the fuel injection nozzle into the 8S2270 Fuel Collector and FT1384 Extension.
3. Make a rapid increase in pressure and look at the orifice discharge (shape of discharge) when fluid begins
to flow from the nozzle tip. The discharge must be the same through all six orifices. Any change, either
vertically or horizontally, is an indication of a bad nozzle.
Good Nozzle (Use Again)
3. Use the 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush from 8S2245 Cleaning Kit to remove any loose carbon from the nozzle
tip.
Typical Discharge For Orifice With A Restriction (Replacement Necessary)

Typical Discharge With Horizontal Distortion (Replacement Necessary)
Typical Discharge With Vertical Distortion (Replacement Necessary)
NOTICE
Do not use a steel brush or a wire wheel to clean the nozzle body or the
nozzle tip. Use of these tools can cause a small reduction of orifice size.
This will cause a large reduction in engine horsepower. Too Much use
of the 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush will also remove the coating that is on
the nozzle for protection.
Fuel Injection Service
Injection Valve (Capsule-Type Nozzle)

If a fuel injection nozzle has been removed from the adapter, test the nozzle before it is again installed in the
adapter. See Testing Capsule-Type Fuel Injection Nozzles.
Check and clean the seat in the adapter before the fuel injection valve is installed. It is important to keep the
correct torque on the nut that holds the fuel nozzle in the adapter. Tighten the nut to 75 ± 7 N·m (55 ± 5 lb ft).
NOTICE
The nut that holds the nozzle in position must have the correct torque.
There will be damage to the nozzle if the nut is too tight. If the nut is
not tight enough, the nozzle can leak.
Install the inner fuel injection line to the adapter and to the nozzle. Tighten nuts of both ends to 40 ± 7 N·m
(30 ± 5 lb ft). Use the 5P144 Socket to tighten the fuel line nut at the nozzle. Use 5P5195 Fuel Line Wrench
to tighten fuel line nut at the adapter.
Injection Pump Removal
NOTICE
Before any parts are removed from the fuel injection pump housing,
thoroughly clean all dirt from the housing. Dirt that gets inside the
pump housing will cause much damage.
Before the fuel injection pumps can be removed the fuel rack must be in the center position. To put fuel rack
in the center position, the procedure that follows is necessary.
1. Remove stop (1), spacer (2), and both gaskets from the end of fuel injection pump housing.
Rack Stop
(1) Stop. (2) Spacer.
2. Move the governor control all the way in the fuel-on direction or until the end of the fuel rack can be felt
with the finger to be past (toward outside of housing) the counterbore in the housing where stop (1) is
installed. Fasten the governor control in this position.
NOTE: If a shut off solenoid is used, electricity must be sent to solenoid (energized) or removed from
solenoid (de-energized) for fuel rack movement.
Rack Stop
(1) Stop.
3. Install stop (1) as shown back on the housing without spacer (2) or the gaskets. Two bolts with shorter
length must be used to hold stop (1) against housing.
The fuel rack is now in the center position against stop (1), and the fuel injection pumps can be removed.
4. Remove fuel injection line from the injection pump.
5. Put 8S4613 Wrench (5) into spline of bushing that holds the fuel injection pump in the housing. Remove
the bushing.
6. Install 8S2244 Extractor (3) on the threads of the injection pump. Pull the pump straight up out of the bore.
When injection pumps and spacers are removed from the injection pump housing, keep the parts for each
pump together so they can be installed back in their original location. Make reference to subject, Checking
The Plunger And Lifter (Or Lifter Washer) On An Injection Pump.
Be careful when injection pumps are disassembled. Do not damage the surface on the plunger. The plunger
and barrel for each pump are made as a set. Do not put the plunger of one pump in the barrel of another
pump. If one part is worn, install a complete new pump assembly. Be careful when putting the plunger in the
bore of the barrel.
Injection Pump Installation
NOTE: Special Instruction Form No. SEHS8436 gives instruction for the use of the 6V9128 Rack Position
Tool Group.
To install a fuel injection pump back into the housing bore, use the procedure that follows:
NOTICE
The fuel rack MUST BE IN THE CENTER POSITION before the

correct installation of an injection pump is possible.
1. Put 8S2244 Extractor (3) on threads of injection pump.
2. Put groove of barrel (4) in alignment with slot of the plunger gear segment (slot is on opposite side of gear
segment teeth).
Injection Pump Installation

(3) 8S2244 Extractor. (4) Barrel.
3. Look inside the bore of the injection pump housing to find the dowel. Put groove of the barrel in alignment
with the dowel and put the injection pump straight down into the bore.
4. Push down on extractor (3) (hand force only) and install bushing (6) that holds the injection pump in the
pump housing. If the pump is in the correct position, the bushing will turn into the threads of the injection
pump housing with the fingers until it is even with the top of the housing (except for the pump that is in
position to fire). When bushing is installed correctly, tighten the bushing to 205 ± 14 N·m (150 ± 10 lb ft).
NOTICE
Damage to the housing will be the result if the bushing is too tight. If
the bushing is not tight enough, the pump will have leakage.
Install Bushing
(5) 8S4613 Wrench. (6) Bushing.
5. Install fuel injection line to the pump with 5P144 Socket and tighten to a torque of 40 ± 7 N·m (30 ± 5 lb
ft).
6. Remove stop (1) from the end of housing. Put spacer (2) and the gaskets between housing and stop (1), and
install the original bolts.
7. Move governor control back to shut-off position. Check to be sure governor control moves freely between
fuel-on and shut-off position.
Check for the correct installation of injection pump with the engine stopped. Rack travel from the center
position in the fuel-on direction can be checked with governor installed, but the governor and governor piston
must be removed to check for full rack travel. Use 9S240 Rack Position Tool Group and the chart that
follows to check rack travel. Make reference to Fuel Rack Setting for installation of 9S240 Rack Position
Tool Group.
With the governor piston and valve removed, the total amount of fuel rack travel (from shut-off position to
full load position) is approximately 20.32 mm (.800 in.). If the pump is installed wrong (center tooth of gear
segment is not in correct notch of fuel rack) fuel rack travel will be less than 20.32 mm (.800 in.). The
injection pump will have to be removed and then installed correctly.
NOTICE
If one or more of the fuel injection pumps have been installed wrong, it
is possible for the engine to run out of control when started. When any
of the fuel injection pumps have been removed and installed with the
fuel injection pump housing on the engine, take the precautions (steps)
that follow to stop the engine if it starts to overspeed (run out of
control).
a. Remove the air cleaner so that the turbocharger air inlet is open as shown.
Turbocharger Air Inlet Opening
b. Set the governor control at low idle.
Be careful when plate is put against air inlet opening. Due to excessive
suction, the plate can be pulled quickly against air inlet opening. To
avoid crushed fingers, do not put fingers between plate and air inlet
opening.
c. Start the engine, and if engine starts to overspeed (run out of control), put a steel plate over the air inlet as
shown to stop the engine.
Stopping The Engine
Checking The Plunger And Lifter (or Lifter Washer) On An Injection Pump
Check timing dimension for the fuel injection pumps. Make an adjustment if necessary, with the pump
housing off the engine. When an adjustment to the timing dimension is done correctly, fuel injection in the
cylinder will be at the correct time. If the timing dimension is too small, fuel injection will be early. If the
timing dimension is too large, fuel injection will be late. An injection pump can have a good fuel flow coming
from it but not be a good pump because of slow timing that is caused by wear on the bottom end of the
plunger. When making a test on a pump that has been used for a long time, use a micrometer and measure the
length of the plunger. If the length of the plunger is shorter than the minimum length (worn) dimension given
in the chart, install a new pump.
Look for wear at the top part of the plunger. Check the operation of the plunger according to the instructions
for the Fuel Injection Test Bench.
Wear Between Lifter Washer And Plunger

Fig. A shows the contact surfaces of a new pump plunger and a new lifter washer. In Fig. B the pump plunger and lifter washer
have worn a large amount. Fig. C shows how the flat end of a new plunger makes bad contact with a worn lifter washer, causing
rapid wear to both parts.
When there is too much wear on the pump plunger, the lifter (or lifter washer in aluminum lifters) may also
be worn and there will not be good contact between the two parts. To stop fast wear on the end of a new
plunger, install new lifters in place of lifters that have wear.
Fuel from the fuel injection pumps is sent through the fuel injection lines to the fuel injection valves.
Each fuel injection line of an engine has a special design and must be installed in a certain location. When
fuel injection lines are removed from an engine, put identification marks or tags on the fuel lines as they are
removed, so they can be put in the correct location when they are installed.
The Nut Of A Fuel Injection Line

(1) 5P144 Fuel Line Socket
The nuts that hold a fuel injection line to an injection valve and injection pump must be kept tight. Use a
torque wrench and the 5P144 Fuel Line Socket (1) to tighten the fuel line nuts to 40 ± 7 N·m (30 ± 5 lb ft).
Fuel injection lines which are bent, damaged or rubbing can leak and
cause a fire. Replace any lines which have damage or leaks that can not
be corrected when tightened to the correct torque.
Fuel Bypass Valve
The fuel bypass valve controls fuel pressure to the fuel injection pump at full speed to a pressure of 230 ± 35
kPa (33 ± 5 psi).
Finding Top Center Compression Position For No. 1 Piston
No. 1 piston at top center (TC) on the compression stroke is the starting point of all timing procedures.
NOTE: There are two threaded holes in the flywheel. These holes are in alignment with the holes with plugs
in the left and right front of the flywheel housing. The two holes in the flywheel are at a different distance
from the center of the flywheel so the timing bolt can not be put in the wrong hole.
Locating Top Center (Left Side Of Engine)
(1) Timing bolt. (2) Timing bolt location. (3) Storage location.
1. The timing bolt (1) is kept in storage at location (3) and can be installed in either the left side of the engine
at location (2) or in the right side of the engine at location (4). Remove the bolts and cover from the flywheel
housing. Remove the plug from the timing hole in the flywheel housing.
Locating Top Center (Right Side Of Engine)

(4) Timing bolt location.
2. Put timing bolt (1) [long bolt that holds cover on the flywheel housing] through the timing hole in the
flywheel housing. Use the 9S9082 Engine Turning Tool and 1/2" drive ratchet wrench to turn the engine
flywheel in the direction of normal engine rotation until the timing bolt engages with the threaded hole in the
flywheel.
Using 9S9082 Engine Turning Tool

(1) Timing bolt. (5) 9S9082 Engine Turning Tool.
NOTE: If the flywheel is turned beyond the point that the timing bolt engages in the threaded hole, the
flywheel must be turned opposite normal engine rotation approximately 30 degrees. Then turn the flywheel in
the direction of normal engine rotation until the timing bolt engages with the threaded hole. The reason for
this procedure is to make sure the play is removed from the gears when the No. 1 piston is put on top center.
3. Remove the front valve cover from the engine.
4. The intake and exhaust valves for the No. 1 cylinder are closed if No. 1 piston is on the compression stroke
and the rocker arms can be moved by hand. If the rocker arms can not be moved and the valves are slightly
open, the flywheel must be turned again. Remove the timing bolt and turn the flywheel in the direction of
normal engine rotation 360 degrees until the timing bolt can be installed. The No. 1 piston is now in the top
center compression position.
Engine Timing And Automatic Timing Advance Unit (Dynamic Check)

The DYNAMIC check of an engine means that the engine is checked while in operation (in motion). The
STATIC check of an engine means that the engine is checked while stopped (not in motion).
8T5300 Timing Indicator Group
(1) 8T5250 Engine Timing Indicator. (2) 5P7366 Cable Assembly. (3) 6V2197 Magnetic Transducer. (4) 5P7362 Cable. (5)
6V2199 and 6V3093 Transducer Adapters. (6) 8K4644 Fuse.
The 8T5300 Timing Indicator Group must be used with the 8T5301 Diesel Timing Adapter Group.
8T5301 Diesel Timing Adapter Group

(7) 5P7437 Adapter. (8) 6V2198 Cable. (9) 5P7436 Adapter. (10) 6V7910 Transducer. (11) 5P7435 Adapter. (12) 6V3016 Washer.
A high pressure fuel line must be disconnected. To avoid personal

injury or fire from fuel spray, the engine must be stopped before the
fuel line is disconnected.
1. Make reference to Operation Instructions inside the lid of 8T5300 Timing Indicator Group (1) or Special
Instruction Form No. SEHS8580 for complete instructions and calibration.
The engine must be stopped before the timing indicator group is

installed. A high pressure fuel line must be disconnected and a probe
must be installed against the flywheel.
(10) Injection transducer. (13) Fuel injection line for No. 1 cylinder.
NOTE: If the engine is equipped with doublewall fuel injection lines, it will be necessary to remove the
number one fuel injection line and install a standard number one fuel line, for timing procedure only. After
the timing procedure is completed, install the original type number one fuel line on the engine.
2. Disconnect fuel injection line (13) for No. 1 cylinder. Slide the nut up and out of the way. Put 5P7436
Adapter (9) in its place and turn the adapter onto the fuel pump bonnet until the top of the bonnet threads are
approximately even with the bottom of the "window" in 5P7436 Adapter (9).
3. Put 5P7435 Tee Adapter (11) on injection transducer (10) and put the end of 5P7435 Tee Adapter (11) in
the "window" of 5P7436 Adapter (9).
4. Move the end of fuel line (13) down on top of 5P7435 Tee Adapter (11). Hold fuel line (13) in place with
5P7437 Adapter (7) and tighten to a torque of no more than 40 N·m (30 lb ft).
Timing Hole Location

(14) Plug.
5. Remove plug (14) from timing hole in flywheel housing. Install the correct adapter (5) into the timing hole
and tighten just a small amount more than finger tight.
(3) Magnetic transducer. (5) Transducer adapter.
6. Push magnetic transducer (3) into adapter (5) until it makes contact with the flywheel. Pull it back out 0.5
to 2 mm (.02 to .08 in.) and finger tighten the knurled locknut.
7. Connect the cables from the transducer to engine timing indicator (1). Calibrate and make adjustments. For
calibration procedure, refer to Special Instruction Form No. SEHS8580.
8. Start the engine and let it reach operating temperature. Then run the engine at approximately one-half
throttle for eight to ten minutes before measuring timing.
9. Run the engine at the speeds required. Record the engine timing readings. If the engine timing is not
correct make reference to Fuel Injection Pump Timing for the correct procedure to change the timing.
10. If the timing is still not correct, or if the operation of the advance is not smooth, make a replacement of
the automatic advance unit. There is no adjustment to the unit.
Fuel System Adjustments: On Engine
Fuel Injection Pump Timing
1. Put No. 1 piston at top center (TC) on compression stroke. Make reference to Top Center (TC) Position For
No. 1 Piston.

(A) Timing pin.
2. Remove the plug from the timing pin hole in the fuel injection pump housing. Install timing pin (A)
through the hole in the pump housing and into the notch in the camshaft.
NOTICE
Too much pressure on the timing pin can damage the fuel injection
pump or the timing pin.
3. If timing is correct, the timing pin will go into the notch in the camshaft and the timing bolt will turn into
the threaded hole in the flywheel. If timing is NOT correct, the timing must be changed.
NOTE: If timing is correct, BE SURE TO REMOVE TIMING PIN AND TIMING BOLT.
4. If timing was NOT correct, remove timing pin and use the procedure that follows to change the timing.
Automatic Timing Advance Unit

(1) Bolts. (2) Automatic timing advance unit.
a. Remove the cover for access to the four bolts of the automatic timing advance unit.
b. BE SURE the timing pin is removed before you loosen the bolts. Loosen the four bolts (1) which hold
automatic timing advance unit (2) on the fuel injection pump drive shaft. Hit the automatic timing advance
unit with a soft faced hammer to make it come loose from the end of the drive shaft for the fuel injection
pump. Be sure it will move freely on the end of the shaft.
c. Tighten the bolts (1) with fingers until there is a small amount of friction (slight drag) between the retainer
and the timing advance unit (2). This friction will hold the unit against the timing gears. This prevents play
(backlash) when gears are turned to the correct position.
d. Remove the timing bolt. Turn the flywheel until the timing pin will go into the groove in the injection
pump camshaft.
e. With the timing pin installed, turn the flywheel clockwise (opposite the direction of engine rotation) a
minimum of 30 degrees. The reason for this step is to be sure the play is removed from the timing gears when
the engine is put on top center (TC).
f. Turn the flywheel in the direction of engine rotation until the No. 1 piston of the engine is on top center
compression stroke. Then, turn the timing bolt into the threaded hole in the flywheel.
g. Tighten bolts (1) to 35 N·m (25 lb ft). Then remove the timing pin from the injection pump housing.
h. Tighten bolts (1) to 70 N·m (50 lb ft). Then remove the timing bolt from the flywheel.
i. Tighten bolts (1) to 135 ± 7 N·m (100 ± 5 lb ft). Then remove the timing bolt from the flywheel.
5. Remove the timing bolt from the flywheel.
6. Turn the crankshaft two complete revolutions and check the timing again to see that timing pin will go into
notch in camshaft with bolt in flywheel.
6. If timing is not correct, do the procedure of Steps 4b through 4h again.
NOTE: If timing is correct, BE SURE TO REMOVE TIMING PIN AND TIMING BOLT.
Flow Checking Fuel Injection Pump Timing
NOTE: This procedure cannot be used on later engines with 7000 Series Fuel Nozzles.
See Special Instruction Form No. SMHS7083 for complete instructions for the fuel flow method of engine
timing (injection sequence).
The timing dimension should be checked and changed if necessary, to correct any movement in the relation
of the accessory drive shaft to the automatic timing advance unit (drive gear) or to correct for worn timing
gears.
Measuring Piston Travel

(1) 3P1565 Collet. (2) 9S215 Dial Indicator and Contact Point. (3) 5P7268 Adapter. (4) Direct injection adapter. (5) 3S3264 Rod.
(6) Inlet port. (7) Piston.
To find the travel (movement) of piston (7), from the point that injection pump inlet port (6) closes (point fuel
injection begins) to top center compression position, use the procedure that follows:
1. Put No. 1 piston at top center (TC) on the compression stroke. Make reference to Finding Top Center
Compression Position For No. 1 Piston.
2. Remove the plug from the timing hole in the fuel injection pump housing.
3. Install 6V4186 Timing Pin (A) through the timing hole and into the notch in the fuel injection pump
camshaft.

(A) Timing pin.
NOTE: If No. 1 piston is at top center compression stroke, and 6V4186 Timing Pin (A) does not fit in the
notch of the fuel injection pump camshaft, see Fuel Injection Pump Timing.
4. Remove the fuel nozzle from the direct injection adapter for No. 1 cylinder.
5. Put 5P7268 Adapter (3) in the direct injection adapter and tighten the adapter finger tight.
NOTICE
Do not use a wrench to tighten the adapter. There will be damage to

the nozzle seat if the adapter is too tight.
Install Adapter And Rod

(3) 5P7268 Adapter. (5) 3S3264 Rod.
6. Put a small amount of clean oil on 3S3264 Rod (5) and put the rod into adapter (3).
Dial Indicator Installed

(1) 3P1565 Collet. (2) 9S215 Dial Indicator.
7. Put the 5P7261 Contact Point and 3P1565 Collet (1) on 9S215 Dial Indicator (2).
8. Put the assembled indicator into adapter. Position the dial indicator (up or down) so small pointer is on
+7.62 mm (+.300 in.) (black numbers) and tighten collet (1).
NOTICE
Do not tighten collet too much or damage to the dial indicator can
result.
9. Loosen the screw that locks the dial face. Move the dial face until the larger pointer is on "0" (zero) and
tighten the lock screw.
10. Remove the timing bolt from the flywheel and the timing pin from the fuel injection pump housing.
11. Turn the crankshaft a minimum of 40 to 50° in the CLOCKWISE direction (when seen from the flywheel
end of the engine) to make sure all gear clearance (backlash) has been removed.
12. Turn the crankshaft in the COUNTERCLOCKWISE direction (when seen from the flywheel end of the
engine) until the dial indicator gives an indication of maximum piston travel. Make an adjustment to the dial
indicator again, if necessary, to put other pointers of the dial indicator at the positions shown in Steps 8 and 9.
13. Disconnect the fuel line and install 6V2023 Adapter Group on No. 1 injection pump.
a. Turn fitting (8) so that less than 5 mm (.2 in.) of pin (14) is extended.
b. Remove tube (13). Put the adapter group in position on No. 1 injection pump. Tighten nut (11) to 40 N·m
(30 lb ft) maximum.
c. Turn fitting (8) down until pin (14) makes contact with the reverse flow check valve.
d. Turn the fitting an additional 1/4 turn.
e. Push washer (10) against adapter (12). Tighten nut (9) finger tight. Install tube (13) on the adapter group.
6V2023 Adapter Group

(8) Fitting. (9) Nut. (10) Washer. (11) Nut. (12) Adapter. (13) Tube. (14) Pin.
14. Disconnect fuel supply line from the fuel filter base. Connect 5J4634 Hose Assembly (15) to the filter
base with an adapter.
1P540 Flow Checking Tool Group
(15) 5J4634 Hose Assembly. (16) Tank assembly.
15. Disconnect the fuel return line from the anti-siphon block or from the junction block. Install a plug where
the fuel return line was disconnected.
Fuel Filter Base

(17) Fuel filter base. (18) Fuel return line. (19) Fuel supply line. (20) Anti-siphon block. (21) Junction block.
16. Turn the crankshaft approximately 45° in a clockwise direction (when seen from the flywheel end of the
engine).
If shop air is used, set the tank regulator to the minimum kPa (psi)
setting. If air pressure is too high, fittings and hoses can be blown off or
the tank can explode causing personal injury. Do not exceed 415 kPa (60
psi) air pressure in the tank.
17. Put 4 liters (1 U.S. gal.) of clean fuel in the tank assembly (16). Move the governor lever to full "fuel-on"
position. Put 105 kPa (15 psi) of air pressure in the tank by using the hand pump or shop air.
18. Hold a pan under the free end of tube (13) for the fuel that comes out.
19. Turn the crankshaft slowly in direction of normal rotation (counterclockwise when seen from the flywheel
end of the engine). Do this until the flow of fuel coming from the end of tube (13) is 6 to 12 drops per minute
[point of closing inlet port (6)].
20. Stop rotation of the crankshaft when the flow of fuel is 6 to 12 drops per minute. Take a reading of the
measurement on the dial indicator.
21. To check for correct timing of the fuel system, make a comparison of the measurement on the dial
indicator with the measurements in the Flow Timing Conversion Chart that follows:
NOTE: The fuel system has a tolerance of ± 1°.

22. If the injection pump timing is wrong, several cylinders can be checked. If they show different readings,
remove the injection pump housing to check all lifter settings and plunger lengths, and to adjust as needed.
See Setting The Injection Pump Timing Dimension: Off Engine, and Checking The Plunger And Lifter (Or
Lifter Washer) Of An Injection Pump.
NOTE: On all cylinders other than No. 1 and No. 6 top center (TC) of each piston will have to be found by
use of the dial indicator. Only No. 1 and No. 6 cylinder can be found by installation of bolt in flywheel.
Measuring Fuel Injection Pump Timing Dimension
2. Make sure the 6V4186 Timing Pin fits through the timing hole and into the notch in the fuel injection
pump camshaft.
3. Remove No. 1 fuel injection pump with 8S4613 Wrench and 8S2244 Extractor. Make reference to
Removal And Installation Of Injection Pumps (On Engine).
4. Put 3P1565 Collet Clamp (2) and 5P4156 Base (3) on 8S3158 Indicator (1). Put 5P4163 Contact Point (5)
on the indicator.
5. To adjust (calibrate) the dial indicator for the lifter measurements, use the procedure that follows:
a. Put the 5P4157 Gauge [101.6 mm (4.00 in.)] on the 5P4159 Gauge Stand.
b. With contact point in gauge hole, put the dial indicator and base on top of 5P4157 Gauge.
c. Loosen the screw that locks that dial face. Move the dial face until large pointer is on zero and tighten the
screw.
d. Make a record of the position of the small pointer. The dial indicator is now adjusted (calibrated).
NOTE: When measurement of the pump timing dimension is made, find the difference between the
adjustment reading and the present reading on the dial face. A dimension of 101.6 mm (4.00 in.) must be
added to the difference in indicator readings for the correct measurement.
6. Put 5P4158 Gauge (4) into the bore in the fuel pump housing.
7. Put the indicator assembly in position on the 5P4158 Gauge (4) and make a note of the pump timing
dimension.
Checking Timing Dimension

(1) 8S3158 Indicator. (2) 3P1565 Collet Clamp. (3) 5P4156 Base. (4) 5P4158 Gauge, 50.8 mm (2.00 in.) long. (5) 5P4163 Contact
Point.
8. The correct timing dimension (on engine) for the fuel injection pump is shown in the chart that follows:
NOTE: If the timing of the fuel system is different than the correct timing dimension given in the chart, and
the camshaft timing for the fuel injection pump is correct, remove the injection pump housing to check all
lifter settings and plunger lengths, and to adjust as needed. Make reference to FUEL SYSTEM
ADJUSTMENTS: OFF ENGINE, and CHECKING THE PLUNGER AND LIFTER (OR LIFTER
WASHER) OF AN INJECTION PUMP.
9. If the timing dimension is correct, install the No. 1 fuel injection pump into the bore in the pump housing.
Make reference to INSTALLATION OF INJECTION PUMP.
10. Remove the timing bolt from the engine flywheel, and remove the timing pin from the fuel injection
pump housing.
Fuel Rack Setting (Hydra-Mechanical Governor)
NOTE: Special Instruction Form No. SEHS6995 gives instruction for the use of the 9S240 Rack Position
Tool Group.
1. Remove stop (1), spacer (2) and both gaskets from the drive housing for the fuel injection pump.
2. Disconnect the governor control linkage to let the governor control lever more freely through its full travel.
Rack Stop
3. Install the 9S7350 Bracket Group (4) and the 9S215 Dial Indicator (5) on the drive housing for the fuel
injection pump.
4. With the governor control lever in the "shut-off" position, put spacer (3) of the bracket group (the spacer is
on the rod connected to the chain) over the rod that makes contact with the rack. Put force on the end of the
rod that makes contact with the rack, to hold the spacer in position while the dial indicator is set at zero.
5. Move dial indicator (5) in bracket group (4) until the pointers indicate zero. Tighten the clamp bolt to hold
the dial indicator in position.
Putting Fuel Rack At Center Position

(3) Spacer. (4) 9S7350 Bracket Group. (5) 9S215 Dial Indicator.
6. Remove spacer (3) from the rod in bracket group (4).

7. Connect the clip end of the 8T500 Circuit Tester (7) to the brass terminal (6) on the governor housing. Put
the other end of the tester to a good ground.
Measuring Fuel Rack Setting

(6) Brass terminal. (7) 8T500 Circuit Tester.
8. Turn the governor lever in the "fuel-on" direction until the light in the tester comes on. Now move the
governor lever toward the "shut-off" position until the test light goes out. Now slowly, turn the governor lever
toward "fuel-on" until the test light has a minimum light output. In this position, rack stop collar (9) is just
making contact with the torque spring or stop bar.
9. Read the measurement on the dial indicator. Look in the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche to
find the correct measurement for rack setting.
10. If an adjustment is necessary, remove the cover from the rear of the governor.
11. To make an adjustment to the fuel rack, loosen locknut (8). Turn adjustment screw (10) to change the fuel
rack setting.
Making An Adjustment To The Rack Setting

(8) Locknut. (9) Stop collar. (10) Adjustment screw.
12. After the adjustment procedure is done, tighten locknut (8) to 15 ± 1 N·m (11 ± 1 lb ft).
13. Install the cover on the rear of the governor.
Rack Shut-Off Solenoid Adjustment

Rack Solenoid
(1) Distance between shaft and plate. (2) Travel 15.7 mm (.62 in.). (3) Starting position of plunger plate from mounting flange is
11.2 mm (.44 in.) to measure travel of plunger.
The correct adjustment of the fuel rack shut-off solenoids is necessary to help prevent failures of the
solenoids. Use the procedure that follows to adjust the shaft:
1. Adjust the plunger plate so it is 11.2 mm (.44 in.) from the flange face as shown in the illustration.
2. Adjust the correct shaft according to the dimension shown in the chart.
3. After the solenoid is installed on the engine, three checks must be made to give proof that the solenoid
adjustment is correct.
A. The adjustment must let the fuel rack move to the full load position. Use 9S240 Rack Position Tool Group
to measure the fuel rack position (see subject FUEL RACK SETTING).
B. The solenoid must be able to move the fuel rack to shut-off position.
C. For solenoids with two sets of windings (pull-in and hold-in), the adjustment must give the plunger
enough travel to cause only the "hold-in" windings to be activated when the fuel rack is held in the shut-off
position. Use a thirty ampere ammeter to measure solenoid current during engine shutdown. If the adjustment
is correct, less than two amperes will be read on the ammeter when solenoid plunger is in the "hold-in"
position.
4. If necessary, make adjustments to the shaft until all three conditions in Step 3 are met.
NOTE: Single winding solenoids do not have the "hold-in" windings. A higher current is necessary to pull
the plunger into position, and the same current level is used to hold the plunger at this position. This type of
solenoid must not be activated constantly for a time period of more than 2.5 minutes, or damage will result.
Fuel System Adjustments: Off Engine
Setting Fuel Injection Pump Dimension
The off engine timing dimension is checked to make adjustment for wear of components in the injection
pump housing. Adjustment of the accessory drive shaft is a compensation for wear in the timing gears,
accessory drive shaft and the camshaft of the injection pumps.
This will make sure that the point of fuel injection is correct. If the timing dimension is too small, fuel
injection will be early. If the timing dimension is too great, fuel injection will be late.
6V4180 Off Engine Lifter Setting Tool Group

(1) 1P7410 Timing Plate. (2) 5P1768 Pointer Assembly. (3) 5P1761 Shaft. (4) 5P4158 Gauge. (5) 2S6160 Washer. (6) S1594 Bolt
(3/8"-16 NC X 1 in. long). (7) S509 Bolt (3/8"-16 NC X 3/4 in. long).
1. Put pointer assembly (2) in position on the front of the fuel injection pump housing and install bolt (7) to
hold it in place.
Installation Of The 5P1768 Pointer Assembly
(2) 5P1768 Pointer Assembly. (3) 5P1761 Shaft. (7) S509 Bolt. (8) Plug for timing hole.
2. Install shaft (3) in the drive end of the pump camshaft.
3. Remove plug (8) from the fuel injection pump housing.
4. Turn the pump camshaft until timing pin (A) can be installed through the timing hole and into the notch in
the camshaft.
Installation Of The 1P7410 Timing Plate

(1) 1P7410 Timing Plate. (5) 2S6160 Washer. (6) S1594 Bolt. (A) 6V4186 Timing Pin.
5. Put timing plate (1) in position on shaft (3) with the 0° mark on the plate in alignment with the pointer.
Install washer (5) and bolt (6) to hold timing plate (1) in position.
NOTE: Be sure 1P7410 Timing Plate (1) does not move from 0° mark while bolt is tightened.
6. Remove the timing pin from the pump housing.
Removal Of Injection Pump Bushing

(2) 5P1768 Pointer Assembly. (9) 8S4613 Wrench.
7. The fuel rack must be in the center position before the injection pumps can be removed. Push and hold the
fuel rack against 5P1768 Pointer Assembly (2) to center the fuel rack.
8. Use wrench (9) to loosen the injection pump bushings.

Removal Of Injection Pump
(10) 8S2244 Extractor.
9. Use extractor (10) to remove the injection pumps from the housing.
NOTE: When injection pumps, spacers and lifters are removed from the injection pump housing, keep the
parts of each pump together so they can be installed back in their original location.
10. Put the pump lifter, for the cylinder to be checked, in the correct position. Make reference to the LIFTER
SETTING CHART for the timing plate degrees for the lifter being checked. To use the timing plate, turn it
counterclockwise until the degree setting for the lifter to be checked is in alignment with the pointer.
Adjustment Of Timing Tools

(11) 8S3158 Indicator. (12) 3P1565 Collet Clamp. (13) 5P4156 Base. (14) 5P4157 Gauge, 101.6 mm (4.00 in.) long. (15) 5P4159
Gauge Stand.
11. To adjust (calibrate) the dial indicator for the lifter measurements, use the procedure that follows:
a. Put gauge (14) on gauge stand (15).
b. With contact point in gauge hole, put the dial indicator and base on top of gauge (14).
c. Loosen the screw that locks the dial face. Move the dial face until the large pointer is on zero and tighten
the screw.
d. Make a record of the position of the small pointer. The dial indicator is now adjusted (calibrated).
Installation Of 5P4158 Gauge
(4) 5P4158 Gauge, 50.8 mm (2.00 in.) long.
12. Make sure the spacer for the injection pump is installed in the pump housing. Install gauge (4) as shown.
13. After the dial indicator has been adjusted and the timing plate is moved to the correct lifter position, put
dial indicator (11) and base (13) on gauge (4).
5P4165 Indicator Group Installed

(4) 5P4158 Gauge, 50.8 mm (2.00 in.) long. (11) 8S3158 Indicator. (13) 5P4156 Base.
14. When measurement of the pump timing dimension (17) is made, find the difference between the
adjustment reading and the present reading on the dial face. A dimension of 101.6 mm (4.00 in.) must be
added to the difference in indicator readings for the correct measurement.
15. The correct timing dimension for off engine adjustment of the lifter is shown in the chart that follows:
Measuring Timing Dimension
(4) 5P4158 Gauge, 50.8 mm (2.00 in.) long. (11) 8S3158 Indicator. (12) 3P1565 Collet Clamp. (13) 5P4156 Base. (16) Spacer. (17)
Timing dimension. (18) 5P4163 Contact Point, 120.7 mm (4.75 in.) long.
16. To change the timing dimension of an injection pump, spacer (16) must be changed. Make reference to
the SPACER CHART for spacer thickness.
17. Make another check for all timing dimensions after all adjustments have been made.
18. Before the injection pumps are installed in the pump housing, the fuel rack MUST be in the center
position. Push and hold the fuel rack against 5P1786 Pointer Assembly (2) when pumps are to be installed in
housing bore. For correct alignment of pumps, make reference to Installation Of Injection Pumps.
19. After the fuel injection pump housing is again installed on the engine, make reference to Fuel Injection
Pump Timing.
Governor Adjustments
NOTICE
A mechanic with training in governor adjustments is the only one to

make the adjustment to the low idle. The correct low idle rpm, and the
measurement for adjustment of the fuel rack are in the Fuel Setting
And Related Information Fiche.
Engine rpm must be checked with an accurate tachometer. The 6V2100 Multitach from the 6V3121 Multitach
Group is the most accurate and the easiest to use. See the topic Measuring Engine Speed for more information
on this tachometer and others that are available.
Low Idle Adjustment
Start the engine and check the low idle and high idle rpm. See the Fuel Setting And Related Information
Fiche for the correct low idle and high idle rpm.
Idle Adjustment
(1) Low idle screw. (2) High idle screw. (3) Cover.
If an adjustment is necessary, remove cover (3) and use the procedure that follows:
1. To adjust the LOW IDLE rpm, move the governor linkage to LOW IDLE position and turn screw (1).
Increase the engine speed and then return linkage back to LOW IDLE position to check the setting again.
2. When governor adjustment is correct, install the cover on top of the governor.
When the cover is installed on the governor, the idle adjustment screws fit into holes in the cover. The shape
of the holes will not let the idle adjustment screw turn after the idle adjustment is done and the cover is
installed.
3. Now install a new wire and seal to cover bolt.

Dashpot Adjustment
Dashpot Governor
(1) Low idle screw. (2) High idle screw. (3) Cover. (4) Dashpot reservoir. (5) Adjustment screw for dashpot. (6) Adjustment screw
for supply oil to reservoir.
If the dashpot governor of an electric set engine (or some special application engines) does not work correctly
(no stability of rpm, or slow changes of rpm when the engine load changes, or variable performance), adjust
the governor.
1. With the engine in operation, loosen adjustment screw (6) on top of the governor two or three turns. The oil
flow will clean the orifice in the oil passage. Next, tighten screw (6) until it stops. Then, loosen screw (6)
only 1/16 to 1/4 of one turn, to give the correct amount of oil for the "dashpot" reservoir.
NOTE: This adjustment controls oil flow into the top reservoir. Too much oil flow will fill the governor with
oil and decrease performance. Too little oil flow will let reservoir empty and allow air in dashpot chamber.
Now governor will "hunt" (increase and decrease engine speed constantly).
2. Loosen adjustment screw (5), on the right side of the governor two or three turns. The oil flow in and out of
the dashpot chamber will clean the orifice in the oil passage. Next, tighten screw (5) until it stops. Then,
loosen screw (5) only 1/4 of one turn to one full turn, to make the correct restriction for "dashpot" operation.
The exact point of adjustment is where the governor gives the best performance.
NOTE: This adjustment controls the amount of restriction to oil flow into and out of the dashpot chamber.
Too much oil flow will cause the governor to "hunt", and too little flow will cause a slow governor action.
Measuring Engine Speed

test procedure.
The 6V4950 Injection Line Speed Pickup Group is another diagnostic tool accessory that can be used with the
6V2100 Multitach. It can be used on all Caterpillar Diesel Engines equipped with 6 mm (.25 in.) single wall
fuel injection lines. With this pickup group, engine speed can be measured quickly, automatically and with an
accuracy of ± 1 rpm.
6V4950 Injection Line Speed Pickup Group

(6) 6V6114 Pickup. (7) 6V6113 Amplifier.
Special Instruction Form No. SEHS8029 is with the group and gives instructions for use of the 6V4950
Injection Line Speed Pickup Group.
Checking Set Point (Balance Point)
The set point check of the engine is a method to make a diagnosis of engine performance.
There is a new and more accurate method for checking the "set point", formerly called the balance point, of
the engine. If the tools for the new method are not available, there is an alternate method for checking the "set
point".
6V4060 Engine Set Point Indicator Group
The 6V4060 Engine Set Point Indicator Group with the 6V2100 Multitach can be used to check the set point.
Special Instruction Form No. SEHS7931 gives instructions for installation and use of this tool group.
Alternate Method
If the set point and the high idle speed are correct, the fuel system operation of the engine is correct. The set
point for the engine is:
A. At 20 rpm greater than full load speed.

B. The rpm where the rack stop collar just makes contact with the torque spring or stop bar.
C. The rpm where the engine gets the maximum amount of fuel per stroke.
D. The rpm where the engine has maximum horsepower output.
E. The rpm where an increase in load on the engine puts the engine in a lug condition (a condition in
which a small increase in load causes the engine speed to decrease).
Use the procedure that follows to check the set point. Make reference to Techniques For Loading Engines in
Special Instruction Form No. SEHS7050.
Circuit Tester Installed

(1) Brass terminal screw. (2) 8T500 Circuit Tester.
1. Connect a tachometer which has good accuracy to the tachometer drive.
2. Connect the clip end of 8T500 Circuit Tester (2) to the brass terminal screw (1) on the governor housing.
Connect the other end of the tester to a place on the fuel system which is a good ground connection.
3. Start the engine.
4. With the engine at normal conditions for operation, run the engine at high idle.
5. Make a record of the speed of the engine at high idle.
6. Add load on the engine slowly until the circuit tester light just comes on (minimum light output). This is
the set point.
7. Make a record of the speed (rpm) at the set point.
8. Repeat Step 6 several times to make sure that the reading is correct.
9. Stop engine. Make a comparison of the records from Steps 5 and 7 with the information from the Fuel
Setting And Related Information Fiche.
10. If the set point is correct, the governor setting is adjusted correctly. If the set point is not correct, adjust
the high idle rpm until you get the correct set point.
NOTICE
Do not adjust rpm above the range for HIGH IDLE given in Fuel
Setting And Related Information Fiche. Damage to engine can result if
setting is too high.
Woodward PSG Governor

Linkage Adjustment (3406B)
PSG Governor Control Linkage

(1) Lever. (2) Angle. (3) Rod assembly. (4) Lever (5) Governor output shaft. (6) Angle.
1. When output shaft (5) is in the SHUTOFF position, angle (6) between lever (4) and vertical must be 30°.
2. Hold lever (4) in the SHUTOFF position. Adjust rod assembly (3) so that when it is connected to lever (1),
angle (2) between the lever and vertical is 28°.
3. Check to make sure the linkage moves freely.

Fuel Setting Procedure (3406B)
6V6070 Governor Adjusting Tool Group
The fuel setting procedure can be used with the fuel injection pump and governor on or off the engine.
Fuel Injection Pump And Governor

(1) Cover (rack position indicator). (2) Plug (rack centering pin).
1. Remove plug (2) and cover (1) from the fuel injection pump housing.
Indicator And Centering Pin Installed

Body Bolt [1/4-20 NC x 25.4 mm (1.00 in.)]. (7) 5P4814 Collet. (8) 6V6106 Dial Indicator.
2. Install the rack position indicator as follows:
Slot In Fuel Injection Pump Rack
(9) Slot.
e. Put indicator (8) in position in collet (7).
f. Put the 9S8903 Contact Point on the 6V2030 Extension and install on indicator (8).
g. Tighten collet (7) just enough to hold the dial indicator.
3. Move the drive group lever (10) to the SHUTOFF position (fully counterclockwise).
4. Install the 6V4186 Timing Pin (3) in the top of the fuel injection pump housing. Push the timing pin in
until contact with the rack is made.
5. Move the drive group lever (10) to the MAXIMUM FUEL position (fully clockwise) and fasten in this
position.
6. Adjust the dial indicator to zero, and tighten collet (7) to hold the dial indicator in position.
7. Move the drive group lever (10) to the SHUTOFF position, and remove timing pin (3).
8. Move the drive group lever (10) to the MAXIMUM FUEL position, and read the measurement on the dial
indicator.
9. See the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct static fuel setting.
10. If the measurement is not correct, do the steps that follow:
a. Cut the lockwire, and remove cover (11).
b. Loosen locknut (13).
c. Turn setscrew (12) to get the correct reading on the dial indicator. Move the drive group lever (10) to the
MAXIMUM FUEL position while reading the dial indicator.
d. Tighten locknut (13). Recheck the fuel setting.
e. Install cover (11) and new seal and lockwire.
11. Remove dial indicator and bracket assembly.
12. Install cover (1) and plug (2).

Governor Drive Group
(10) Drive group lever. (11) Cover. (12) Setscrew. (13) Lock nut.
Linkage Adjustment (3406)
PSG Governor Control Linkage

(1) Lever. (2) Rod assembly. (3) Lever. (4) Governor output shaft. (A) Angle. (B) Angle.
1. When governor output shaft (4) is in the SHUTOFF position angle (B), between lever (3) and horizontal,
must be 60°.
2. Keep lever (3) at SHUTOFF. Adjust rod assembly (2) so that when it is connected to lever (1) angle (A),
between the lever and horizontal, is 40°2'.
3. Check to make sure the linkage operates freely.
Needle Valve Adjustment

1. Start the engine and let it run at the desired speed until the coolant temperature is normal.
2. Turn compensating needle valve (2) two or three turns counterclockwise. Let the engine hunt for about 30
seconds. This lets air out of the hydraulic circuit in the governor.
3. Turn the needle valve slowly clockwise until the engine speed has stability. Put a near full load on the
engine. Again turn the needle valve slowly clockwise until the engine speed has stability.
NOTE: 1/4 turn out from the seat is the approximate point of best stability.
4. To check the adjustment turn lever (1) counterclockwise to decrease engine speed. Release the lever. The
engine must return rapidly to the desired speed.
5. If the engine hunts more than a small amount before it has stability turn the needle valve clockwise. If the
engine is slow to return to the desired speed turn the needle valve counterclockwise. Do steps 4 and 5 until
the engine returns to the desired speed and has stability in the shortest amount of time.
PSG Governor
(1) Lever. (2) Compensating needle valve.
Fuel Setting Procedure (3406)
NOTE: Special Instruction Form No. SEHS6995 gives instructions for the use of the 9S240 Rack Position
Tool Group.
1. Remove stop (1), spacer (2) and both gaskets from the drive housing for the fuel injection pump.
Rack Stop
2. Disconnect the governor control linkage to let the drive group lever move freely through its full travel.
Measure Rack Travel

(3) Spacer. (4) 9S7350 Bracket Group. (5) 9S215 Dial Indicator.
3. Install 9S7350 Bracket Group (4) and 9S215 Dial Indicator (5) on the drive housing for the fuel injection
pump.
4. With the drive group lever in the shutoff position (fully clockwise), put spacer (3) of the bracket group over
the rod that will make contact with the rack.
5. Push the hole attachment against the rod to hold the spacer in position.
6. Put the dial indicator on zero and release the hole attachment. Take the spacer away from the rod.
7. Turn the drive group lever slowly in the FUEL ON direction (counterclockwise) until it stops.
8. Read the measurement on the dial indicator. Look at the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche to
find the correct measurement for rack setting.
9. If the measurement is not correct do the steps that follow:
a. Remove cover (9) and the washer.
b. Loosen nut (7) until lock (6) is free of the pin.

Governor Drive Group
(6) Lock. (7) Nut. (8) Switch assembly. (9) Cover. (10) Terminal. (11) Drive group lever.
c. Turn switch assembly (8), as necessary, to get the correct reading on the dial indicator. Remember to push
the drive group lever (11) counterclockwise when reading the dial indicator.
NOTE: Turn switch assembly (8) clockwise to decrease or counterclockwise to increase the rack setting.
NOTE: If the pin is not in alignment with one of the notches in lock (6), turn switch assembly (8) to put the
nearest notch in alignment with the pin.
d. Tighten nut (7). Check the adjustment by going through Steps 4 through 9 again. When the adjustment is
correct, install cover (9), the gaskets, spacer (2) and stop (1).
NOTE: To check for full fuel with the engine running connect the 8T500 Circuit Tester between terminal
(10) of the switch assembly and a good ground. When the rack gets to full fuel the light in the tester will go
on.
Adjusting The High Idle Stop

1. Start the engine and let it run until the coolant temperature is normal.
2. Loosen locknut (3). Turn stop screw (4) counterclockwise approximately two turns.
NOTICE
With the stop screw in this position the engine can overspeed. This can
cause damage to engine components. Be ready to shutdown the engine
if it has an overspeed condition.
Earlier PSG Governor
(1) Synchronizing motor. (2) Knurled knob. (3) Locknut. (4) Stop screw.
3. Use knurled knob (2) or synchronizing motor (1) to adjust the engine to the desired speed.
4. Turn stop screw (4) clockwise until it stops. Tighten locknut (3).
5. If the engine speed is still correct, the adjustment is correct.
Check Speed Droop

The speed droop can be adjusted between zero and seven percent. The desired speed droop will be different
for different applications. Percent of speed droop is the percent difference between the engine speed at no
load and full load. To calculate speed droop use the formula:
1. Get the desired speed droop for the application.
2. Multiply the full load speed by the desired speed droop. Add the number from this multiplication to the full
load speed to get the no load speed.
3. Start the engine and let it run until the temperature of the coolant is normal.
4. Adjust the engine speed to get the no load speed from Step 2.
5. Connect a known load to the engine. The load must be less than the full capacity of the engine. Make a
record of the decrease in engine speed.
6. Make a ratio between the load on the engine and the full load capacity of the engine. This ratio must be the
same as the ratio between the decrease in engine speed from Step 5 and the number from the multiplication in
Step 2, For example:
7. If the ratios are not the same, an adjustment of the speed droop is necessary. Remove the load and stop the
engine. If the engine speed decreased too much according to the ratio, decrease the amount of speed droop. If
the decrease in engine speed is not enough, increase the amount of speed droop. See Speed Droop
Adjustment.
Speed Droop Adjustment
1. Make a mark on cover (1) to show the original position of bracket (3). This will show how much a change
in bracket position changes the speed droop.
2. Loosen knob (2) that holds bracket (3) and speed droop lever (4) in position.
Earlier PSG Governor

(1) Cover. (2) Knob. (3) Bracket. (4) Speed droop lever. (5) Stop screw.
3. To increase the speed droop turn lever (4) counterclockwise. To decrease the speed droop turn lever (4)
clockwise.
NOTE: If the lever is turned clockwise beyond the point where the speed droop is zero the engine will hunt a
large amount and will not get stability.
4. Tighten knob (2) to hold the lever and bracket in position. After an adjustment is made check the speed
droop. See CHECK SPEED DROOP. Several adjustments can be necessary to get the desired speed droop.
5. When lever (4) is in the position that gives the desired speed droop, set stop screw (5) against the pin on
lever (4). This will make it easy to return the speed droop lever to the desired position after disassembly and
assembly of the governor.
Pilot Valve Adjustment
The top cover is pushed away from the body of the governor by a strong
spring. Loosen all the bolts that hold the cover in position evenly to
decrease the force of compression of the spring.
PSG Governor
(1) Inspection opening. Check the adjustment of the pilot valve when the governor is disassembled (linkage and top cover
removed).
1. Remove the pipe plug from inspection opening (1).
2. Use a light to look for the control opening in pilot valve bushing (2) and regulating land (3) on the pilot
valve.
Control Opening
(1) Inspection opening. (2) Pilot valve bushing. (3) Regulating land. (A) Port opening. (B) Port opening.
3. Push pilot valve (6) in the direction of the drive end as far as possible. Check the length of port opening
(A).
4. Pull the pilot valve in the opposite direction as far as possible. Check the length of port opening (B).
5. The length of port opening (A) must be the same, within 0.25 mm (.010 in.), as port opening (B).
PSG Governor
(2) Pilot valve bushing. (3) Regulating land. (4) Locknut. (5) Spring seat. (6) Pilot valve.
6. If the lengths of the port openings are not correct hold spring seat (5) with 1P87 Adjusting Wrench. Loosen
locknut (4). Turn the pilot valve as necessary to get the correct adjustment.
NOTE: Turn the pilot valve clockwise to increase port opening (A) and decrease port opening (B). Turn it
counterclockwise to decrease port opening (A) and increase port opening (B).
1P87 Adjusting Wrench Used To Hold Spring Seat
7. Tighten locknut (4) and remove the wrench.
8. Check the adjustment according to Steps 3, 4 and 5.
NOTICE
If this adjustment is not correct the engine can have an overspeed

condition. This can cause damage to engine components.
9. When the adjustment is correct, put 5P3413 Pipe Sealant on the threads of the pipe plug and install it in
pipe plug opening.
Air Inlet And Exhaust System

Restriction Of Air Inlet And Exhaust
There will be a reduction of horsepower and efficiency of the engine if there is a restriction in the air inlet or
exhaust system.
Air flow through the air cleaner must not have a restriction (negative pressure difference measurement
between atmospheric air and air that has gone through air cleaner) of more than 762 mm (30 in.) of water.
Back pressure from the exhaust (pressure difference measurement between exhaust at outlet elbow and
atmospheric air) must not be more than 685 mm (27 in.) of water.
Measurement Of Pressure In Inlet Manifold

The efficiency of an engine can be checked by making a comparison of the pressure in the inlet manifold with
the information given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche. This test is used when there is a
decrease of horsepower from the engine, yet there is no real sign of a problem with the engine.
The correct pressure for the inlet manifold is given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.
Development of this information is done with these conditions:
a. 747 mm (29.4 in.) of mercury barometric pressure.

b. 29°C (85°F) outside air temperature.
c. 35 API rated fuel
Any change from these conditions can change the pressure in the inlet manifold. Outside air that has higher
temperature and lower barometric pressure than given above will cause a lower horsepower and a lower inlet
manifold pressure measurement than given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche. Outside air
that has a lower temperature and a higher barometric pressure will cause higher horsepower and a higher inlet
manifold pressure measurement.
A difference in fuel rating will also change horsepower and the pressure in the inlet manifold. If the fuel is
rated above 35 API, pressure in the inlet manifold can be less than given in the Fuel Setting And Related
Information Fiche. If the fuel is rated below 35 API, the pressure in the inlet manifold can be more than given
in the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.
NOTE: Be sure that the air inlet and exhaust do not have a restriction when making a check of pressure in the
inlet manifold.
Inlet Manifold Plug For Pressure Test
Aftercooler Housing Plug For Pressure Test
Use the 1U5470 Engine Pressure Group and part of the 6V3121 Multitach Group to check the pressure in the
inlet manifold.
1U5470 Engine Pressure Group
This tool group has a gauge to read pressure in the inlet manifold. Special Instruction Form SEHS8524 is
with the tool group and gives instructions for its use.

test procedure.
Turbocharger
Every 7200 hours or if any unusual sound or vibration in the turbocharger is noticed, a quick check of bearing
condition can be made without disassembling the turbocharger. This can be done by removing the piping
from the turbocharger and inspecting the compressor impeller, turbine wheel and compressor cover. Rotate
the compressor and turbine wheel assembly by hand and observe by feeling excess end play and radial
clearance. The rotating assembly should rotate freely with no rubbing or binding. If there is any indication of
the impeller rubbing the compressor cover or the turbine wheel rubbing the turbine housing, recondition the
turbocharger or replace with a new or rebuilt one.
End clearance is best checked with a dial indicator. Attach a dial indicator with the indicator point on the end
of the shaft. Move the shaft from end to end making note of the total indicator reading.
End play for the turbocharger should be 0.08 to 0.15 mm (.003 to .006 in.). If end play is more than the
maximum end play, rebuild or replace the turbocharger. End play less than the minimum end play could
indicate carbon build up on the turbine wheel and the turbocharger should be disassembled for cleaning and
inspection.
Checking Turbocharger Rotating Assembly End Play (Typical Example)
A more reliable check of bearing conditions can be made only when the turbocharger is disassembled and the
bearings, shaft journal and housing bore diameters can actually be measured.
Measurement Of Exhaust Temperature
6V5000 Infrared Thermometer Group
Use the 6V5000 Infrared Thermometer Group to check exhaust temperature. Special Instruction Form No.
SEHS8149 is with the tool group and gives instructions for the test procedure.
Crankcase (Crankshaft Compartment) Pressure

Pistons or piston rings that have damage can be the cause of too much pressure in the crankcase. This
condition will cause the engine to run rough. There will also be more than the normal amount of fumes
coming from the crankcase breather. This crankcase pressure can also cause the element for the crankcase
breather to have a restriction in a very short time. It can also be the cause of oil leakage at gaskets and seals
that would not normally have leakage.
Compression
An engine that runs rough can have a leak at the valves, or have valves that need adjustment. Removal of the
head and inspection of the valves and valve seats is necessary to find those small defects that do not normally
cause a problem. Repair of these problems is normally done when reconditioning the engine.
Cylinder Head
The cylinder head has valve seat inserts, valve guides, and bridge dowels that can be removed when they are
worn or have damage. Replacement of these components can be made with the tools that follow.
Valves
Valve removal and installation is easier with use of the 5S1330 Valve Spring Compressor Assembly and
5S1322 Valve Keeper Inserter.
Valve Seat Inserts

Tools needed to remove and install valve seat inserts are in the 6V4805 Valve Insert Puller Group. Special
Instruction Form No. SMHS7935 gives an explanation for the procedure to remove the valve seat inserts. For
easier installation, lower the temperature of the insert before it is installed in the head.
Valve Guides
Tools needed to install valve guides are the 5P2396 Driver Bushing and 7S8859 Driver. The counterbore in
the driver bushing installs the guide to the correct height. Use a 1P7451 Valve Guide Honing Group to make
a finished bore in the valve guide after installation of the guide in the head. Special Instruction Form No.
SMHS7526 gives an explanation for this procedure. Grind the valves after the new valve guides are installed.
Checking Valve Guide Bore

Use the 5P3536 Valve Guide Gauge Group to check the bore of the valve guides. Special Instruction Form
No. GMG02562 gives complete and detailed instructions for use of the 5P3536 Valve Guide Gauge Group.
5P3536 Valve Guide Gauge Group
Bridge Dowel
Use a 5P944 Dowel Puller Group witha 5P942 Extractor to remove the bridge dowels. Install a new bridge
dowel with a 5P2406 Dowel Driver. This dowel driver installs the bridge dowel to the correct height.
Bridge Adjustment
When the cylinder head is disassembled, keep the bridges with their respective cylinders. Adjustment of the
bridge will be necessary after the valves are ground or other reconditioning of the cylinder head is done. The
bridge should be checked and/or adjusted each time the valves are adjusted. Use the procedure that follows to
make an adjustment to the bridge.
NOTE: The bridges can be adjusted without removal of the rocker arms and shafts. Valves must be fully
closed when adjustment is made.
Bridge Adjustment
NOTE: Valves must be fully closed.
1. Put engine oil on the bridge dowel in the cylinder head and in the bore in the bridge.
2. Install the bridge with the adjustment screw toward the exhaust manifold.
3. Loosen the locknut for the adjustment screw and loosen the adjustment screw several turns.
4. Put a force on the bridge with a finger to keep the bridge in contact with the valve stem opposite the
adjustment screw.
5. Turn the adjustment screw clockwise until it just makes contact with the valve stem. Then turn the
adjustment screw 30° more in a clockwise direction to make the bridge straight on the dowel, and to make
compensation for the clearance in the threads of the adjustment screw.
6. Hold the adjustment screw in this position and tighten the locknut to 28 ± 4 N·m (22 ± 3 lb ft).
7. Put engine oil at the point where the rocker arm makes contact with the bridge.
Valve Clearance Setting

NOTE: Valve clearance is measured between the rocker arm and the bridge for the valves.
Valve Clearance Check

NOTE: When the valve lash (clearance) is checked, adjustment is NOT NECESSARY if the measurement is
in the range given in the chart for VALVE CLEARANCE CHECK: ENGINE STOPPED. If the measurement
is outside this range, adjustment is necessary. See the chart for VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING: ENGINE
STOPPED, and make the setting to the nominal (desired) specifications in this chart.
To make an adjustment to the valve clearance, turn the adjustment screw in the rocker arm. It is not necessary
to change the bridge adjustment for normal valve clearance adjustments. Valve clearance adjustments can be
made by using the procedure that follows:
Valve Adjustment
2. Make an adjustment to the valve clearance on the intake valves for cylinders 1, 2 and 4. Make an
adjustment to the valve clearance on the exhaust valves for cylinders 1, 3 and 5.
3. After each adjustment, tighten the nut for valve adjustment screw to 28 ± 4 N·m (22 ± 3 lb ft), and check
the adjustment again.
4. Remove the timing bolt and turn the flywheel 360° in the direction of engine rotation. This will put No. 6
piston at top center (TC) on the compression stroke. Install the timing bolt in the flywheel.
5. Make an adjustment to the valve clearance on the intake valves for cylinders 3, 5 and 6. Make an
adjustment to the valve clearance on the exhaust valves for cylinders 2, 4 and 6.
6. After each adjustment, tighten the nut for valve adjustment screw to 28 ± 4 N·m (22 ± 3 lb ft), and check
the adjustment again.
7. Remove the timing bolt from the flywheel when all valve clearances are correct.
Cylinder And Valve Location
Lubrication System
One of the problems in the list that follows will generally be an indication of a problem in the lubrication
system for the engine.
Too Much Oil ConsumptionOil Pressure Is LowOil Pressure Is HighToo Much Bearing WearIncreased Oil
Temperature
Too Much Oil Consumption

Oil Leakage on Outside of Engine
Check for leakage at the seals at each end of the crankshaft. Look for leakage at the oil pan gasket and all
lubrication system connections. Check to see if oil comes out of the crankcase breather. This can be caused
by combustion gas leakage around the pistons. A dirty crankcase breather will cause high pressure in the
crankcase, and this will cause gasket and seal leakage.
Oil Leakage Into Combustion Area of Cylinders

Oil leakage into the combustion area of the cylinders can be the cause of blue smoke. There are four possible
ways for oil leakage into the combustion area of the cylinders.
1. Oil leakage between worn valve guides and valve stems.

2. Worn or damaged piston rings, or dirty oil return holes.
3. Compression ring and/or intermediate ring not installed correctly.
4. Oil leakage past the seal rings in the impeller end of the turbocharger shaft.
Too much oil consumption can also be the result if oil with the wrong viscosity is used. Oil with a thin
viscosity can be caused by fuel leakage into the crankcase, or by increased engine temperature.
Measuring Engine Oil Pressure
An oil pressure gauge that has a defect can give an indication of low oil pressure.
The 1U5470 Engine Pressure Group can be used to check engine oil pressure.
1U5470 Engine Pressure Group
The 1U5470 Engine Pressure Group can be used to measure the pressure in the system. This tool group has a
gauge to read pressure in the oil manifold. Special Instruction Form SEHS8524 is with the tool group and
gives instructions for its use.
1. Be sure that the engine is filled to the correct level with SAE 10W-30 oil. If any other viscosity of oil is
used, the information in the Engine Oil Pressure Graph does not apply.
2. Connect the 1U5470 Engine Pressure Group to the main oil manifold at location (1).
Oil Manifold
(1) Pressure test location.
3. Operate the engine to get it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Keep the oil temperature constant with the engine at its rated rpm, and read the pressure gauge.
NOTE: Make sure engine oil temperature does not go above 115°C (239°F).
5. On the Engine Oil Pressure Graph, find the point that the lines for engine rpm and oil pressure intersect
(connect).
Engine Oil Pressure Graph
6. If the results do not fall within the "ACCEPTABLE" pressure range given in the graph, find the cause and
correct it. Engine failure or a reduction in engine life can be the result if engine operation is continued with
oil manifold pressure outside this range.
NOTE: A record of engine oil pressure, kept at regular intervals, can be used as an indication of possible
engine problems or damage. If there is a sudden increase or decrease of 70 kPa (10 psi) in oil pressure, even
though the pressure is in the "ACCEPTABLE" range on the graph, the engine should be inspected and the
problem corrected.
Oil Pressure Is Low

Crankcase Oil Level
Check the level of the oil in the crankcase. Add oil if needed. It is possible for the oil level to be too far below
the oil pump supply tube. This will cause the oil pump to not have the ability to supply enough lubrication to
the engine components.
Oil Pump Does Not Work Correctly

The inlet screen of the supply tube for the oil pump can have a restriction. This will cause cavitation (low
pressure bubbles suddenly made in liquids by mechanical forces) and a loss of oil pressure. Air leakage in the
supply side of the oil pump will also cause cavitation and loss of oil pressure. If the bypass valve for the oil
pump is held in the open (unseated) position, the lubrication system can not get to a maximum pressure. Oil
pump gears that have too much wear will cause a reduction in oil pressure.
Oil Filter Bypass Valves
If the bypass valve for the oil filter is held in the open position (unseated) because the oil filter has a
restriction, a reduction in oil pressure can result. To correct this problem, remove and clean the bypass valve
and bypass valve bore. Install a new Caterpillar oil filter to be sure that no more debris makes the bypass
valve stay open.
Too Much Clearance at Engine Bearings or Open Lubrication System (Broken or

Disconnected Oil Line or Passage)
Components that are worn and have too much bearing clearance can cause oil pressure to be low. Low oil
pressure can also be caused by an oil line or oil passage that is open, broken or disconnected.
Piston Cooling Tubes (Jets)

When engine is operated, cooling jets direct oil toward the bottom of the piston to lower piston and ring
temperatures. If there is a failure of one of the jets, or it is bent in the wrong direction, seizure of the piston
will be caused in a very short time.
Use the 5P8709 Piston Tool Group to check and adjust the alignment of piston cooling jets.
Oil Pressure Is High

Oil pressure will be high if the bypass valve for the oil pump can not move from the closed position.
Too Much Bearing Wear

When some components of the engine show bearing wear in a short time, the cause can be a restriction in an
oil passage. A broken oil passage can also be the cause.
If the gauge for oil pressure shows enough oil pressure, but a component is worn because it can not get
enough lubrication, look at the passage for oil supply to the component. A restriction in a supply passage will
not let enough lubrication get to a component, and this will cause early wear.
Increased Oil Temperature

Look for a restriction in the oil passages of the oil cooler. If the oil cooler has a restriction, the oil temperature
will be higher than normal when the engine is operated. The oil pressure of the engine will not get low just
because the oil cooler has a restriction.
Also check the oil cooler bypass valve to see if it is held in the open position (unseated). This condition will
let the oil through the valve instead of the oil cooler, and oil temperature will increase.
Cooling System
This engine has a pressure type cooling system. A pressure type cooling system gives two advantages. The
first advantage is that the cooling system can have safe operation at a temperature that is higher than the
normal boiling (steam) point of water. The second advantage is that this type system prevents cavitation (low
pressure bubbles suddenly made in liquids by mechanical forces) in the water pump. With this type system, it
is more difficult for an air or steam pocket to be made in the cooling system.
The cause for increased engine temperature is generally because regular inspections of the cooling system
were not made. Make a visual inspection of the cooling system before a test is made with test equipment.
Visual Inspection Of The Cooling System

1. Check coolant level in the cooling system.
2. Look for leaks in the system.
NOTE: Water pump seals. A small amount of coolant leakage across the surface of the "face-type" seals is
normal, and required, to provide lubrication for this type of seal. A hole is provided in the water pump
housing to allow this coolant/seal lubricant to drain from the pump housing. Intermittent leakage of small
amounts of coolant from this hole is not an indication of water pump seal failure. Replace the water pump
seals only if a large amount of leakage, or a constant flow of coolant is observed draining from the water
pump housing.
3. Look for bent radiator fins. Be sure that air flow through the radiator does not have a restriction.
4. Inspect the drive belts for the fan.
5. Check for damage to the fan blades.
6. Look for air or combustion gas in the cooling system.
7. Inspect the filler cap and the surface that seals the cap. This surface must be clean.
Testing The Cooling System

Remember that temperature and pressure work together. When a diagnosis is made of a cooling system
problem, temperature and pressure must both be checked. Cooling system pressure will have an effect on
cooling system temperatures. For an example, look at the chart to see the effect of pressure and height above
sea level on the boiling (steam) point of water.
Test Tools for Cooling System
The 8T470 Thermistor Thermometer Group is used in the diagnosis of overheating (engine hotter than
normal) or overcooling (engine cooler than normal) problems. This group can be used to check temperatures
in several different parts of the cooling system. The testing procedure is in Special Instruction Form No.
SEHS8446.
8T470 Thermistor Thermometer Group
The 8T2700 Blowby/Air Flow Indicator Group is used to check the air flow through the radiator core. The
operating instruction are included with the group.
8T2700 Blowby/Air Flow Indicator Group
The 6V3121 Multitach Group is used to check the fan speed. The testing procedure is in Special Instruction
Form No. SEHS7807.
Checking Pressure Cap

One cause for a pressure loss in the cooling system can be a bad seal on the radiator pressure cap.
DO NOT loosen the filler or pressure cap on a hot engine. Steam or hot
coolant can cause severe burns.
After the engine is cool, loosen the pressure cap and let the pressure out of the cooling system. Then remove
the pressure cap.
Inspect the pressure cap carefully. Look for damage to the seal or to the surface that seals. Any foreign
material or deposits on the cap, seal or surface that seals, must be removed.
Typical Schematic Of Pressure Cap
(A) Sealing surface of cap and radiator.
The 9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group is used to test pressure caps and to pressure check the
cooling system for leaks.
To check the pressure cap for the pressure that makes the pressure cap open, use the procedure that follows:
1. Remove the pressure cap from the radiator.
2. Put the pressure cap on the 9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group.
9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group
3. Look at the gauge for the exact pressure that makes the pressure cap open.
4. Make a comparison of the reading on the gauge with the correct pressure at which the pressure cap must
open.
NOTE: The correct pressure that makes the pressure cap open is on the pressure cap and is also in the
Attachment Specifications Section.
5. If the pressure cap is bad, install a new pressure cap.

Testing Radiator and Cooling System for Leaks
To test the radiator and cooling system for leaks, use the procedure that follows:
1. Remove the pressure cap from the radiator.
2. Make sure the coolant is over the top of the radiator core.
3. Put the 9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group on the radiator.
4. Get the pressure reading on the gauge to 20 kPa (3 psi) more than the pressure on the pressure cap.
5. Check the radiator for outside leakage.
6. Check all connections and hoses for the cooling system for outside leakage.
7. If you do not see any outside leakage and the pressure reading on the gauge is still the same after 5
minutes, the radiator and cooling system does not have leakage. If the reading on the gauge goes down and
you do not see any outside leakage, there is leakage on the inside of the cooling system. Make repairs as
necessary.
9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group

(A) Release valve. (B) Adapter. (C) Hose.
If a pressure indication is shown on the gauge, to avoid personal injury

push release valve (A) to release all pressure in the system before
removal of hose (C) from radiator.
Gauge for Water Temperature

2F7112 Thermometer Installed
If the engine gets too hot and a loss of coolant is a problem, a pressure loss in the cooling system could be the
cause. If the gauge for water temperature shows that the engine is getting too hot, look for coolant leakage. If
a place can not be found where there is coolant leakage, check the accuracy of the gauge for water
temperature. Use the 8T470 Thermistor Thermometer Group or the 2F7112 Thermometer and 6B5072
Bushing.
Start the engine and run it until the temperature is at the desired range according to the test thermometer. If
necessary, put a cover over part of the radiator or cause a restriction of the coolant flow. The reading on the
gauge for water temperature must be the same as the test thermometer within the tolerance range in the chart.
Water Temperature Gauge

Water Temperature Regulators
1. Remove the regulator from the engine.
2. Heat water in a pan until the temperature is 92°C (197°F). Move the water around in the pan to make it all
the same temperature.
3. Hang the regulator in the pan of water. The regulator must be below the surface of the water and it must be
away from the sides and bottom of the pan.
4. Keep the water at the correct temperature for 10 minutes.
5. After ten minutes, remove the regulator and immediately measure the distance the regulator has opened.
The distance must be a minimum of 9.53 mm (.375 in.).
6. If the distance is less than 9.53 mm (.375 in.), make a replacement of the regulator.
V-Belt Tension Chart
Basic Block
Piston Rings
This engine has piston grooves and rings of the KEYSTONE (taper) design. The 1U6431 Keystone Piston
Ring Groove Gauge Group is available to check the top two ring grooves in the piston. For the correct use of
the gauge group see the instruction card that is with the gauge group.
Instructions For the 1U6431 Keystone Piston Ring Groove Gauge Group
Connecting Rods And Pistons

Use the 7M3978 Piston Ring Expander to remove or install piston rings.
Use the 5P3526 Piston Ring Compressor to install pistons into cylinder block.
Tighten the connecting rod nuts in the step sequence that follows:
1. Put 2P2506 Thread Lubricant on bolt threads and contact surfaces of nut and cap.
2. Tighten all nuts to 80 ± 5 N·m (60 ± 4 lb ft).
3. Put a mark on each nut and end of bolt.
4. Tighten each nut 120° from the mark.
The connecting rod bearings fit tightly in the bore in the rod. If bearing joints or backs are worn (fretted),
check bore size. This can be an indication of wear because of a loose fit.
Connecting Rod And Main Bearings

Connecting rod bearings are available with 0.64 mm (.025 in.) and 1.27 mm (.050 in.) smaller inside diameter
than the original size bearings. These bearings are for crankshafts that have been "ground" (made smaller than
the original size).
Main bearings are available with a larger outside diameter than the original size bearings. These bearings are
for cylinder blocks that have had the bore for the main bearings "bored" (made larger than the original size).
The size available is 0.64 mm (.025 in.) larger outside diameter than the original size bearings.
Cylinder Block
The bore in the block for main bearings can be checked with the main bearing caps installed without bearings.
Tighten the nuts that hold the caps to the torque shown in the SPECIFICATIONS. Alignment error in the
bores must not be more than 0.08 mm (.003 in.). Special Instruction Form No. SMHS7606 gives instructions
for the use of 1P4000 Line Boring Tool Group for alignment of the main bearing bores. The 1P3537 Dial
Bore Gauge Group can be used to check the size of the bores. Special Instruction Form No. GMG00981 is
with the group.
1P3537 Dial Bore Gauge Group
Projection Of Cylinder Liner
Check liner projection above top plate as follows:
1. Make certain that top plate (4) and the cylinder liner flange are clean. Install a new top plate gasket, but do
not install liner seals when this check is made.
Holding Top Plate To Cylinder Block (Typical Example)

(1) 3H465 Plate. (2) 1P2396 Puller Plate. (3) 2F126 Seals (copper washers). (4) Top plate.
2. Use 3/4-16 NF bolts, 76.2 mm (3 in.) long, with two 2F126 Seals (3) on each bolt to hold the top plate (4)
to the cylinder block. Install two bolts with seals (3) on each side of the cylinder liner. Tighten the bolts
evenly, in four steps; 14 N·m (10 lb ft), 35 N·m (25 lb ft), 70 N·m (50 lb ft) and then to 95 N·m (70 lb ft)
NOTE: To keep installation and removal of bolts and washers to a minimum as each liner is checked, install
two bolts with washers on each side of each cylinder liner along the complete length of the top plate.
3. Use a 1P2396 Puller Plate (2), three 3H465 Plates (1), 8B7548 Push-Puller (6), and two 3/4-16 NF bolts,
177.8 mm (7 in.) long to hold the liner down.
4. Tighten the bolts evenly in four steps; 7 N·m (5 lb ft), 20 N·m (15 lb ft), 35 N·m (25 lb ft), and then to 70
N·m (50 lb ft). Distance from bottom edge of 8B7548 Push-Puller (6) to top plate must be the same on both
sides of cylinder liner.
Measuring Liner Height Projection

(Typical Example) (5) Dial indicator. (6) 8B7548 Push-Puller. (7) 1P2402 Gauge Body.
5. Use a 8T455 Liner Projection Tool Group to measure liner projection. Special Instruction Form No.
SMHS7727 is with the tool group.
6. To zero dial indicator (5), use the back of 1P5507 Gauge with dial indicator (5) mounted in 1P2402 Gauge
Body (7).
7. Liner projection must be 0.05 to 0.20 mm (.002 to .008 in.). (Make the measurement to the top of the liner
flange, not the inner ring). The maximum differential between high and low measurements made at four
places around each liner is 0.05 mm (.002 in.). The average projection of liners next to each other must not be
more than 0.05 mm (.002 in.). The maximum difference in the average projection of the cylinder liners under
one cylinder head must not be more than 0.10 mm (.004 in.).
NOTE: If liner projection changes from point to point around the liner, turn the liner to a new position within
the bore. If still not within specifications, move liner to a different bore.
NOTE: When liner projection is correct, put a temporary mark on the liner and top plate so when seals and
band are installed, the liner can be installed in the correct position.
The contact face of the cylinder block can be machined with use of the 8S3140 Cylinder Block Counterboring
Tool Arrangement to adjust liner projection. Special Instruction Form No. FM055228 is part of the cylinder
block counterboring tool arrangement and gives tool arrangement and information to use the tool.
2W3815 and 5N93 Stainless Steel Inserts are available for use after the cylinder block has been counterbored.
Special Instruction From No. SMHS8222 has the correct installation procedure for the inserts.
Flywheel And Flywheel Housing

Heat the ring gear to install it. Do not heat to more than 315°C (600°F). Install the ring gear so the chamfer on
the gear teeth are next to the starter pinion when the flywheel is installed.
Face Run Out (axial eccentricity) of the Flywheel Housing

If any method other than given here is used, always remember bearing clearance must be removed to get
correct measurements.
8S2328 Dial Indicator Group Installed
Checking Face Runout Of The Flywheel Housing

(A) Bottom. (B) Right side. (C) Top. (D) Left side.
1. Fasten a dial indicator to the crankshaft flange so the anvil of the indicator will touch the face of the
flywheel housing.
2. Put a force on the crankshaft toward the rear before the indicator is read at each point.
3. With dial indicator set at 0.0 mm (.000 in.) at location (A), turn the crankshaft and read the indicator at
locations (B), (C) and (D).
4. The difference between lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not be more than 0.30
mm (.012 in.), which is the maximum permissible face run out (axial eccentricity) of the flywheel housing.
Bore Runout (radial eccentricity) of the Flywheel Housing
8T5096 Dial Indicator Group Installed
1. Fasten the dial indicator as shown so the anvil of the indicator will touch the bore of the flywheel housing.
2. With the dial indicator in position at (C), adjust the dial indicator to "0" (zero). Push the crankshaft up
against the top of the bearing. Write the measurement for bearing clearance on line 1 in column (C) in the
Chart For Dial Indicator Measurements.
NOTE: Write the dial indicator measurements with their positive (+) and negative (-) notation (signs). This
notation is necessary for making the calculations in the chart correctly.
3. Divide the measurement from Step 2 by 2. Write this number on line 1 in columns (B) & (D).
4. Turn the crankshaft to put the dial indicator at (A). Adjust the dial indicator to "0" (zero).
5. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to put the dial indicator at (B). Write the measurements in the chart.
Checking Bore Runout Of The Flywheel Housing
6. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to put the dial indicator at (C). Write the measurement in the chart.
7. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to put the dial indicator at (D). Write the measurement in the chart.
8. Add lines I and II by columns.
9. Subtract the smaller number from the larger number in line III in columns (B) & (D). The result is the
horizontal eccentricity (out of round). Line III, column (C) is the vertical eccentricity.
10. On the graph for total eccentricity find the point of intersection of the lines for vertical eccentricity and
horizontal eccentricity.
11. If the point of intersection is in the range marked "Acceptable" the bore is in alignment. If the point of
intersection is in the ranged marked "Not Acceptable" the flywheel housing must be changed.
Graph For Total Eccentricity
Face Runout (axial eccentricity) of the Flywheel

1. Install the dial indicator as shown. Always put a force on the crankshaft in the same direction before the
indicator is read so the crankshaft end clearance (movement) is always removed.
Checking Face Runout Of The Flywheel
2. Set the dial indicator to read 0.0 mm (.000 in.).
3. Turn the flywheel and read the indicator every 90°.
4. The difference between the lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not be more than
0.15 mm (.006 in.), which is the maximum permissible face runout (axial eccentricity) of the flywheel.
Bore Runout (radial eccentricity) of the Flywheel
1. Install the dial indicator (3) and make an adjustment of the universal attachment (4) so it makes contact as
shown.
Checking Bore Runout Of The Flywheel

(1) 7H1945 Holding Rod. (2) 7H1645 Holding Rod. (3) 7H1942 Indicator. (4) 7H1940 Universal Attachment.
2. Set the dial indicator to read 0.0 mm (.000 in.).
3. Turn the flywheel and read the indicator every 90°.
4. The difference between the lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not be more than
0.15 mm (.006 in.), which is the maximum permissible bore runout (radial eccentricity) of the flywheel.
5. Runout (eccentricity) of the bore for the pilot bearing for the flywheel clutch, must not exceed 0.13 mm
(.005 in.).
Checking Flywheel Clutch Pilot Bearing Bore
Vibration Damper
Damage to or failure of the damper will increase vibrations and result in damage to the crankshaft. It will
cause more gear train noise at variable points in the speed range.
The vibration damper has marks (1) on the hub and the ring. These marks give an indication of the condition
of the vibration damper. If the marks are not in alignment, the rubber part (between the ring and the hub) of
the vibration damper has had a separation from the ring and/or hub. If the marks are not in alignment, install a
new vibration damper.
Vibration Damper
(1) Alignment marks.
A used vibration damper can have a visual wobble (movement to the front and then to the rear when in
rotation) on the outer ring and still not need replacement, because some wobble of the outer ring is normal.
To see if the amount of wobble is acceptable, or replacement is necessary, check the damper with the
procedure that follows:
1. Install a dial indicator, contact point and other parts as necessary to hold the dial indicator stationary. The
contact point must be perpendicular (at 90° angle) to the face of the outer ring of the damper, and must make
contact approximately at the center of the outer ring.
2. Push on the front end of the crankshaft so the end play (free movement on the centerline) is removed. Keep
the crankshaft pushed back until the measurements are done.
3. Adjust the dial indicator to zero.

4. Turn the crankshaft 360° and watch the dial indicator. A total indicator reading of 0.00 to 2.03 mm (.000
to .080 in.) is acceptable.
Electrical System
Test Tools For Electrical System
Most of the tests of the electrical system can be done on the engine. The wiring insulation must be in good
condition, the wire and cable connections must be clean and tight, and the battery must be fully charged. If
the on-engine test shows a defect in a component, remove the component for more testing.
The service manual Testing And Adjusting Electrical Components, Form No. REG00636, has complete
specifications and procedures for the components of the starting circuit and the charging circuit.
6V4930 Battery Load Tester
The 6V4930 Battery Load Tester is a portable unit in a metal case for use under field conditions and high
temperatures. It can be used to load test all 6, 8 and 12V batteries. This tester has two heavy-duty load cables
that can easily be fastened to the battery terminals, and a load adjustment knob on the front panel permits a
current range up to a maximum of 700 amperes. The tester also has a thermometer to show when the safe
operating temperature limit of the unit has been reached.
NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction Form No. SEHS8268 for more complete information for use of
the 6V4930 Battery Loader Test.
8T900 AC/DC Clamp-On Ammeter
The 8T900 AC/DC Clamp-On Ammeter is a completely portable, self-contained instrument that allows
electrical current measurements to be made without breaking the circuit or disturbing the insulation on
conductors. A digital display is located on the ammeter for reading current directly in a range from 1 to 1200
amperes. If an optional 6V6014 Cable is connected between this ammeter and one of the digital multimeters,
current readings of less than 1 ampere can then be read directly from the display of the multimeter.
A lever is used to open the jaws over the conductor [up to a diameter of 19 mm (.75 in.)], and the spring
loaded jaws are then closed around the conductor for current measurement. A trigger switch that can be
locked in the ON or OFF position is used to turn on the ammeter. When the turn-on trigger is released, the
last current reading is held on the display for 5 seconds. This allows accurate measurements to be taken in
limited access areas where the digital display is not visible to the operator. A zero control is provided for DC
operation, and power for the ammeter is supplied by batteries located inside the handle.
NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction Form No. SEHS8420 for more information for use of the
8T900 Clamp-on Ammeter.
6V7070 Heavy-Duty Digital Multimeter
The 6V7070 Heavy-Duty Digital Multimeter is a completely portable, hand held instrument with a digital
display. This multimeter is built with extra protection against damage in field applications, and is equipped
with seven functions and 29 ranges. The 6V7070 Multimeter has an instant ohms indicator that permits
continuity checking for fast circuit inspection. It also can be used for troubleshooting small value capacitors.
The 6V7800 Regular-duty Digital Multimeter (a low cost option to the Heavy-Duty Multimeter) is also
available; however, the 6V7800 Multimeter does not have the 10A range or the instant ohms feature of the
6V7070 Multimeter.
NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction Form No. SEHS7734 for more complete information for use of
the 6V7070 and 6V7800 Multimeters.
Battery
Never disconnect any charging unit circuit or battery circuit cable from
battery when the charging unit is operated. A spark can cause an
explosion from the flammable vapor mixture of hydrogen and oxygen
that is released from the electrolyte through the battery outlets. Injury
to personnel can be the result.
The battery circuit is an electrical load on the charging unit. The load is variable because of the condition of
the charge in the battery. Damage to the charging unit will result if the connections (either positive or
negative) between the battery and charging unit are broken while the charging unit is in operation. This is
because the battery load is lost and there is an increase in charging voltage. High voltage will damage, not
only the charging unit, but also the regulator and other electrical components.
Use the 6V4930 Battery Load Tester, the 8T900 Clamp-On Ammeter and the 6V7070 Multimeter to load test
a battery that does not hold a charge when in use. See Special Instruction Form No. SEHS8268 for the correct
procedure and specifications to use.
Charging System
The condition of charge in the battery at each regular inspection will show if the charging system operates
correctly. An adjustment is necessary when the battery is constantly in a low condition of charge or a large
amount of water is needed (more than one ounce of water per cell per week or per every 100 service hours).
When it is possible, make a test of the charging unit and voltage regulator on the engine, and use wiring and
components that are a permanent part of the system. Off-engine (bench) testing will give a test of the
charging unit and voltage regulator operation. This testing will give an indication of needed repair. After
repairs are made, again make a test to give proof that the units are repaired to their original condition of
operation.
Before the start of on-engine testing, the charging system and battery must be checked as shown in the Steps
that follow:
1. Battery must be at least 75% (1.225 Sp. Gr.) fully charged and held tightly in place. The battery holder
must not put too much stress on the battery.
2. Cables between the battery, starter and engine ground must be the correct size. Wires and cables must be
free of corrosion and have cable support clamps to prevent stress on battery connections (terminals).
3. Leads, junctions, switches and panel instruments that have direct relation to the charging circuit must give
correct circuit control.
4. Inspect the drive components for the charging unit to be sure they are free of grease and oil and have the
ability to operate the charging unit.
Alternator Regulator Adjustment (Delco-Remy)

When an alternator is charging the battery too much or not enough, an adjustment can be made to the
charging rate of the alternator. Make reference to the Specifications section to find all testing specifications
for the alternators and regulators.
To adjust the voltage setting, use the procedures that follow:
Delco-Remy 12V 60A (7G7889 Alternator) Delco-Remy 24V 35A (3T6352 Alternator) Delco-Remy 24V
35A (5N5692 Alternator)
No adjustment can be made to change the rate of charge on the alternator regulators. If rate of charge is not
correct, a replacement of the regulator is necessary.
6N9294 Alternator
Delco-Remy 12V 75A (5S6698 Alternator)
To adjust the voltage setting on these alternators, use the procedure that follows:
5S6698 Alternator
(1) Adjustment screw under plug (earlier regulator). (2) End plate.
1. Remove end plate (2) and cover (3) from the alternator.
Location Of Cover
(3) Cover.
2. Remove the rubber sealant from the adjustment screw (4).
3. Use a voltmeter to measure alternator voltage output.
Alternator Regulator
(4) Voltage adjustment screw. (5) Field wire. (6) Transistor pins.
4. Turn adjustment screw (4) counterclockwise to lower the voltage setting. Turn adjustment screw (4)
clockwise to raise the voltage setting.
5. Put 3S6252 Rubber Sealant on adjustment screw (4) and install cover (3) and end plate (2).
NOTICE
Make certain that field wire (5) is not located over transistor pins (6).
The pins can make a hole in the insulation of the wire.
Delco-Remy 24V 60A (4N3986 Alternator) Delco-Remy 32V 60A (4N3987 Alternator)
To make an adjustment to the voltage output, pull out voltage adjustment cap (1). Turn the cap 90° and install
it again into the alternator. The voltage adjustment cap has four positions: HI, LO, and two positions between
the high and the low setting.
The 4N3987 Alternator can be adjusted for either 30 or 32 volts. A replacement alternator shipped from the
factory will be adjusted for 32V systems. Where the alternator is to be used in a 30V system, pull out voltage
adjustment cap (1) and change to position 3.
Cap Type Regulator Adjustment

(1) Voltage adjustment cap.
No adjustment can be made to change the rate of charge on these alternator regulators. If the rate of charge
(ampere output) is within 10 amperes of rated output (marked on the alternator frame) the regulator is good.
An over or under charged battery condition can be corrected sometimes by an adjustment to the voltage as
described above. If rate of charge is not correct, a replacement of the regulator is necessary.
Bosch 24V 37A (7N9720 Alternator)
The solid state regulator used with the Bosch Alternator is totally enclosed and non-adjustable. If the rate of
charge is not correct a replacement of the regulator is necessary.
7N9720 Bosch Alternator

(1) Regulator. (2) Cover.
Motorola Alternator Regulator (Separate From Alternator)
When the alternator is either charging the battery too much or not enough, an adjustment can be made to the
alternator charging rate. To make an adjustment to the voltage output, remove the cap (1) from the alternator
regulator and change the regulator adjustment with a screwdriver.
Alternator Regulator (Motorola)
(1) Cap for adjustment screw.
To increase the voltage, turn the adjustment screw clockwise. The adjustment screw under the cap (1) has five
positions (number 1 is the last position clockwise).
Motorola Alternator Regulator (6T9445) Bosch Alternator Regulator (9G7567) Nippondenso

Alternator Regulator (7T2798)
Motorola Regulator (6T9445)

Bosch Regulator (9G7567)
Nippondenso Regulator (7T2793)
No adjustment can be made to change the rate of charge on these alternator regulators. If rate of charge is not
correct, a replacement of the regulator is necessary.
Delco-Remy Alternator; Pulley Nut Tightening

Tighten nut that holds the pulley to a torque of 100 ± 7 N·m (75 ± 5 lb ft) with the tools shown.
Tools To Tighten Alternator Pulley Nut

(1) 5P7425 Torque Wrench. (2) 8S1588 Adapter (1/2 in. female to 3/8 in. male). (3) FT1697 Socket. (4) 8H8517 Combination
Wrench (1 1/8 in.). (5) FT1696 Wrench.
Starting System
Use the multimeter in the DCV range to find starting system components which do not function.
Move the start control switch to activate the starter solenoid. Starter solenoid operation can be heard as the
pinion of the starter motor is engaged with the ring gear on the engine flywheel.
If the solenoid for the starter motor will not operate, it is possible that the current from the battery did not get
to the solenoid. Fasten one lead of the multimeter to the connection (terminal) for the battery cable on the
solenoid. Put the other lead to a good ground. A zero reading is an indication that there is a broken circuit
from the battery. More testing is necessary when there is a voltage reading on the multimeter.
The solenoid operation also closes the electric circuit to the motor. Connect one lead of the multimeter to the
solenoid connection (terminal) that is fastened to the motor. Put the other lead to a good ground. Activate the
starter solenoid and look at the multimeter. A reading of battery voltage shows the problem is in the motor.
The motor must be removed for further testing. A zero reading on the multimeter shows that the solenoid
contacts do not close. This is an indication of the need for repair to the solenoid or an adjustment to be made
to the starter pinion clearance.
Make a test with one multimeter lead fastened to the connection (terminal) for the small wire at the solenoid
and the other lead to the ground. Look at the multimeter and activate the starter solenoid. A voltage reading
shows that the problem is in the solenoid. A zero reading is an indication that the problem is in the start
switch or the wires for the start switch.
Fasten one multimeter lead to the start switch at the connection (terminal) for the wire from the battery.
Fasten the other lead to a good ground. A zero reading indicates a broken circuit from the battery. Make a
check of the circuit breaker and wiring. If there is a voltage reading, the problem is in the start switch or in
the wires for the start switch.
A starter motor that operates too slow can have an overload because of too much friction in the engine being
started. Slow operation of the starter motor can also be caused by a short circuit, loose connections and/or dirt
in the motor.
Pinion Clearance Adjustment (Delco-Remy)

When the solenoid is installed, make an adjustment of the pinion clearance. The adjustment can be made with
the starter motor removed.
Connection For Checking Pinion Clearance

(1) Connector from MOTOR terminal on solenoid to motor. (2) SW terminal. (3) Ground terminal.
1. Install the solenoid without connector (1) from the MOTOR connections (terminal) on solenoid to the
motor.
2. Connect a battery, of the same voltage as the solenoid, to the terminal (2), marked SW.
3. Connect the other side of the battery to ground terminal (3).

4. Connect for a moment, a wire from the solenoid connection (terminal) marked MOTOR to the ground
connection (terminal). The pinion will shift to crank position and will stay there until the battery is
disconnected.
Pinion Clearance Adjustment

(4) Shaft nut. (5) Pinion. (6) Pinion clearance.
5. Push the pinion toward the commutator end to remove free movement.
6. Pinion clearance (6) must be 8.3 to 9.9 mm (.33 to .39 in.).
7. To adjust pinion clearance, remove plug and turn nut (4).
Pinion Clearance Adjustment (Prestolite)

There are two adjustments on this type motor. They are end play for the armature and pinion clearance.
End Play For The Armature
The correct end play for the armature is 0.13 to 0.76 mm (.005 to .030 in.). The adjustment is made by adding
or removing thrust washers on the commutator end of the armature shaft.

Connections For Adjustment Of The Pinion Clearance
(1) Stud.
1. To adjust the pinion distance, connect the 24V solenoid to a 12 volt battery (12V solenoid to a 6 volt
battery) as shown. For a short moment, connect a wire from the "motor" stud of the solenoid to the stud at (1)
in the commutator end. This moves the solenoid and drive into the cranking position.
Disconnect the wire.
NOTE: The drive is in the cranking position until the battery is disconnected.

(2) Adjustment nut. (3) Distance.
2. Push the drive toward the commutator end of the motor to eliminate any slack movement in the linkage and
measure the distance between the outside edge of the drive sleeve and the thrust washer. The distance (3)
must be 0.51 to 1.27 mm (.020 to .050 in.).
3. Remove the plug. Turn the adjustment nut (2) in or out as necessary to get this distance.
4. Install the plug.
Air Starting System

Pressure Regulating Valve
Pressure Regulating Valve (Typical Illustration)

(1) Adjustment screw. (2) Regulator inlet. (3) Regulator outlet.
To check and adjust the pressure regulating valve, use the procedure that follows:
1. Drain the line to the pressure regulating valve or drain the air storage tank.
2. Disconnect the regulator from the starter control valve.
3. Connect an 8M2885 Pressure Gauge to regulator outlet (3).
4. Put air pressure in the line or tank.
5. Check the pressure.
6. Adjust the pressure regulating valve as shown in Chart For Air Pressure Setting.
7. Remove the air pressure from the line or tank.
8. Remove the 8M2885 Pressure Gauge and connect the air pressure regulator to the line to the air starter
motor.
Each engine application will have to be inspected to get the most acceptable starting results. Some of the
factors that affect regulating valve pressure setting are: attachment loads pulled by engine during starting,
ambient temperature conditions, oil viscosity, capacity of air reservoir, and condition of engine (new or
worn).
The advantage of setting the valve at the higher pressures is increased torque for starter motor and faster
rotation of engine. The advantage of setting the valve at the lower pressures is longer time of engine rotation
for a given reservoir capacity of supply air.
Lubrication
Always use an air line lubricator with these air starter motors.
For temperatures above 0°C (32°F), use a good quality SAE 10 motor oil.
For temperatures below 0°C (32°F), use diesel fuel.
To maintain the efficiency of the starter motor, flush it at regular intervals. Pour approximately 0.5 liter (1 pt.)
of diesel fuel into the air inlet of the starter motor and operate the motor. This will remove the dirt, water and
oil mixture (gummy coating) from the vanes of the motor.
Air Starting Motor (Ingersoll-Rand, Size 150 BMP)

The cylinder (12) must be assembled over the rotor (15) and on the front end plate (16) so the dowel hole
(12B) and the inlet passages (12A) for the air are as shown in the rear view illustration of the cylinder and
rotor. If the installation is not correct, the starter drive (42) will turn in the wrong direction.
Rear View Of The Cylinder And Rotor For Clockwise Rotation

(12) Cylinder. (12A) Air inlet passages. (12B) Dowel hole. (15) Rotor.
Tighten the bolts (6) of the rear cover in small increases of torque for all bolts until all bolts are tight 25 to 35
N·m (20 to 25 lb ft).
Put a thin layer of lubricant on the lip of the seal (29) and on the outside of the collar (35), for installation of
drive shaft (34). After installation of the shaft through the cover (28) check the lip of the grease seal (29). It
must be turned correctly toward the drive gear (25). If the shaft turned the seal lip in the wrong direction,
remove the shaft and install again. Use a tool with a thin point to turn the seal lip in the correct direction.
Air Starter (Ingersoll-Rand)
(6) Bolt. (12) Cylinder. (15) Rotor. (16) Front end plate. (22) Gear case. (25) Drive gear. (28) Gear case cover. (29) Grease seal.
(32) Bolt. (34) Drive shaft. (35) Drive shaft collar. (42) Starter drive (pinion). (45) Drive housing. (49) Air inlet. (50) Deflector (air
outlet). (51) Mounting flange on the drive housing.
Tighten the bolts (32) of the drive housing in small increases of torque for all bolts until all bolts are tight
11.3 N·m (100 lb in).
Check the motor for correct operation. Connect an air hose to the motor inlet (49) and make the motor turn
slowly. Look at the drive pinion (42) from the front of the drive housing (45). The pinion must turn
clockwise.
Connect an air hose to the small hole with threads in the drive housing (45), nearer the gear case (22). When a
little air pressure goes to the drive housing, the drive pinion (42) must move forward to the engaged position.
Also, the air must get out through the other hole with threads nearer the mounting flange (51).
Components Of The Air Starter (Ingersoll-Rand, Size 150 BMP, Model C Or E)
(1) Motor housing cover. (2) Plug. (3) Plug. (3A) Plug. (6) Bolt (cap screw). (7) Lockwasher. (8) Gasket. (9) Rotor rear bearing.
(10) Bearing retainer. (11) Rear end plate. (12) Cylinder. (13) Dowel. (14) Rotor vane. (15) Rotor. (16) Front end plate. (17) Rotor
front bearing. (18) Motor housing. (19) Gear case gasket. (20) Rotor pinion. (21) Rotor pinion retainer. (22) Gear case. (23) Bearing
ejecting washer. (24) Rear bearing for the drive shaft. (25) Drive gear. (25A) Thrust washer. (26) Key for the drive gear. (27) Front
bearing for the drive shaft. (28) Gear case cover. (29) Grease seal for the drive shaft. (30) Cover seal. (31) Piston seal. (32) Bolt.
(33) Lockwasher. (34) Drive shaft. (35) Drive shaft collar. (36) Piston. (36A) Piston ring. (37) Shift ring. (38) Shift ring retainer.
(39) Shift ring spacer. (40) Piston return spring. (41) Return spring seat. (42) Starter drive (pinion). (43) Lockwasher. (44) Bushing
for the bolts. (45) Drive housing. (46) Drive housing bushing. (47) Oiler felt for the bushing. (48) Oiler plug.
Copyright 1993 - 2011 Caterpillar Inc. Mon Mar 21 13:36:04 EST 2011
Todos los derechos reservados.
Red privada para licenciados del SIS.

Cat - Pruebas y Ajustes 3406B S - N 2WB

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Testing And Adjusting

1. Engine Crankshaft Will Not Turn When Start Switch Is On.

Problem 1: Engine Crankshaft Will Not Turn When Start Switch Is On

1. Battery Has Low Output:

Make Reference to Item 27.

2. Wires Or Switches Have Defect:

Make Reference to Item 27.

3. Starter Motor Solenoid Has A Defect:

Make Reference to Item 27.

4. Starter Motor Has A Defect:

Make Reference to Item 27.

5. Inside Problem Prevents Engine Crankshaft From Turning:

Problem 2: Engine Will Not Start

1. Starter Motor Turns Too Slow:

Make Reference to Items 27 and 28.

2. Dirty Fuel Filter:

Install new fuel filter.

3. Dirty Or Broken Fuel Lines:

Clean or install new fuel lines as necessary.

4. Fuel Transfer Pump:

6. Bad Quality Fuel:

7. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make adjustment to timing.

8. Shutoff Solenoid Will Not Move To Extended Position:

Problem 3: Engine Misfires Or Runs Rough

1. Fuel Pressure Is Low:

2. Air In Fuel System:

Install a new fuel line.

4. Wrong Valve Clearance:

Make adjustment according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.

5. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s) Or Injection Pump(s):

6. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make adjustment to timing.

7. Bent Or Broken Push Rod:

Replacement of push rod is necessary.

Problem 4: Stall At Low RPM

2. Idle rpm Too Low:

3. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s):

Install new fuel injection nozzle(s).

5. Defect In Fuel Injection Pump(s):

Install new parts if needed.

Problem 5: Sudden Changes In Engine Speed (rpm)

1. Failure Of Governor Or Fuel Injection Pump:

1. Wrong Adjustment Of "Dashpot" Governor:

Problem 7: Not Enough Power

1. Bad Quality Fuel:

2. Fuel Pressure Is Low:

3. Leaks In Air Inlet System:

5. Wrong Valve Clearance:

Make adjustment according to the Subject, VALVE CLEARANCE SETTING.

6. Defect In Fuel Injection Nozzle(s) Or Fuel Injection Pump(s):

7. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make adjustment to timing.

8. Fuel Setting Too Low:

Make reference to the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.

9. Fuel Ratio Control:

Control either needs an adjustment or it is damaged and a new control is needed.