Horizontal "Flatbed" Router Table: MLCS Manual For #9767
Horizontal "Flatbed" Router Table: MLCS Manual For #9767
Horizontal "Flatbed" Router Table: MLCS Manual For #9767
1.) Start the assembly by installing the two vertical table supports (part#23) to the router
table base (part #24) using (8) screws (part #22). The table base should have the
countersunk holes on the bottom. The vertical table supports should have the threaded
inserts facing the rear of the table.
2.) Remove the protective paper backing from both sides of the Router Mounting Plate
(part #25). Center your router over the hole in the Router Mounting Plate and mark the
mounting holes for your router. (Note: After marking these positions, it may be helpful
to remove the sub-base from the router and use it as a drilling guide. Line up the sub-
base with the marked mounting holes and attach with double sided tape.) Drill and
countersink the holes for the router. The countersinks for router mounting holes must be
drilled on the same face of the Router Plate as the countersunk holes for the drive block.
The router plate is left uninstalled to ease preparing the router plate for router
installation.
3.) First, follow the instructions for marking and drilling the Router Plate (#25) to accept
your router.
4.) The Drive Block (#8) must be predrilled to accept the Router Plate mounting screws
(#16). Use the template on the last page to mark and pre-drill the mounting locations on
the face of the Drive Block (#8). The template is the same size as the face of the Drive
Block. Use an 1/8” drill bit to pre-drill the mounting holes.
6.) Attach the router mechanism (pre-assembled from the factory) (part numbers 3, 4, 5,
6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 16 +18) to the base assembly with (6) hex bolts & washers (part #26).
Do not over-tighten as you may bend the aluminum columns (part #10 + #18)
7.) Continue by installing the router table top (part #21) to the vertical table supports (part
#23) using the (8) remaining screws (part #22). The countersunk holes will be facing up
on the router tabletop.
8.) Attach extension fences (part #13 + #19) to the table top using (4) screws (parts #22).
Complete this step by attaching the top of the extension fences (part #13 + #19) to the
aluminum columns (part #10 + #18) using screws (part #12) and screwing through the
angle support brackets (part #11)
9.) The knob (part #2) will already have male threads protruding out of the base of it. See
figure 1.
(figure 1)
11.) Screw the knob (part #2) into the threaded insert in the wheel (part #1) from the top
of the wheel (part #1). Do not completely tighten the knob (part #2) against the top of the
wheel (part #1). See figure 3.
(figure 2) (figure 3)
12.) Use an open ended wrench to secure the hex nut down tightly against the wheel (part
#1). See figure 4.
13.) The knob (part #2) should now be able to turn freely. It should not be tightened up
against the wheel (part #1). If it is tightened up against the wheel, unthread the knob
from the wheel. See figure 5.
(figure 4) (figure 5)
14.) Place Handle (part #1) and Height Wheel (part # 2) assembly onto the drive rod (part
#3) so that the allen set screw is oriented towards the flat spot on the drive rod. Secure by
tightening the setscrew.
You may now install your router on the Horizontal Table after completing the full
assembly instructions.
If you want to mount the bench top Horizontal Router Table, you could use the MLCS
#9680 stand. See below for the proper mounting orientation.
1) Start by cutting your panel to its finished size. You may choose to allow a small 1/16”
to 1/8” gap inside the rail & stile for seasonal wood movement.
2) After you have cut your panel to its finished dimension, install a vertical raised panel
bit in your router.
3) Adjust the router bit depth so the router bit will cut a 3/8” depth flat cut before the
profile cut starts. Position the router plate height so that the router bit’s edge is just above
the surface of the tabletop. Turn the locking knobs to secure the router and plate in place.
4) Turn on the router and working from left to right, make the first pass on the end grain
of the panel. Cut the end grain first so that any tear out can be cleaned up when you cut
with the grain.
5) After cutting the end grain on the panel, cut the two remaining edges (with grain cuts).
6) Turn off the router and wait for the router bit to come to a complete stop.
7) Loosen the two locking knobs on the router plate and adjust the bit up a small amount.
Lock the knobs to secure the plate and make your second pass on the panel.
8) Repeat until you have a 1/4” tongue to fit into the slot on the rails and stiles. TIP:
Taking many shallow passes will yield a better cut than trying to cut too aggressively
which may lead to a poor cut quality or excessive tear-out.
Remember Safety Rules: Wear proper eye protection, keep hands away from router
bit and never rout with the router bit above your workpiece – always keep your
workpiece above the router bit.