Lectron Gen II 4 Stroke Tuning Manual

Gen II 4 Stroke Install and Tuning Manual
Installing the Throttle and Cable

1. Turn the petcock to the “OFF” position. Uninstall the fuel tank and plastics to make the
carburetor accessible. Uninstall the stock carburetor, throttle cable(s), and throttle.
2. Remove the three screws from the top of the Lectron and set the top cover aside. Use caution
as it is under light spring tension.
3. Install the included Domino 4 Stroke throttle housing on the handlebar and remove the plastic
throttle tube.
4. Select which throttle cam profile you would like
to use. The 600xx cam is a faster turning cam for
aggressive riding. The LEC cam has a slower initial
turn for more leverage and control.
5. Snap the cam onto the end of the red, billet G2
throttle tube.
6. Thread the included throttle cable into the
Domino throttle housing. Feed the inner cable through the housing and center the brass barrel
in the cam.
7. Install the cam and tube into the throttle and bolt it back together.
8. Feed the cable through the frame of the bike and thread the cable into the Lectron top cover.
Snug it up, then back it off about a turn.
9. Thread the inner cable from the throttle cable through the top cover gasket and spring. Seat the
ball of the cable in the back of the round opening in the slide. The spring tension will hold it in
place.
10. To check the free play, remove the top cover from your throttle assembly and screw in the bolt
that holds the top cover on. You may need to use a small washer to hold the wheel in place (this
wheel is green in most 4 stroke throttles). Twist the throttle from closed, to wide open, to
closed again to ensure everything travels freely. There should be a small amount of slack, but
not enough to make the cable rub on the inside of the throttle housing. Reinstall the cover and
confirm again that the slide travels freely and the throttle snaps shut. If it does not snap shut do
NOT run the bike
Installing the Carburetor

1. Loosen the clamp closest to the carburetor on the rubber intake adapter and press the Lectron
into it. If the fit is too tight, soak the flange in some hot water to make it more pliable.
2. Reinstall the slide, spring, top cover gasket, and top cover onto the Lectron. Snug the top cover
bolts up evenly.
3. Once the carburetor is seated, snug up the hose clamp just enough to hold the carburetor in
place.
4. If your motorcycle is equipped with a vacuum petcock, remove the vacuum port cap from the
engine side of the carburetor and run a line from there to the petcock.
5. Seat the air boot onto the bell of the carburetor. Rotate the carburetor to where it is as vertical
as possible. The carburetor can be tilted up to 15° off center for clearance.
6. Tighten the clamps to hold the carburetor in place. Try rotating the carburetor to make sure
everything is tight. If the carburetor can rotate, then tighten the clamps up until it no longer can.
Air leaks (especially on the engine side) can cause tuning issues.
7. Cycle the throttle a few times from closed to wide open to make sure if activates smoothly. If it
does not work smoothly, DO NOT RIDE IT.
Setting the Choke Tension

1. The knurled knob on the Remote Choke cable is a tension adjuster. Tighten it down to
increase the tension, and back it off to reduce tension.
2. Lectron recommends setting the tension JUST tight enough to hold the choke fully open.
Cycle it a few times to confirm that this is the case before attempting to start the bike.
Filling the Float Bowl

1. If you have a manual petcock, flip it to the ON position, and the float bowl should fill up.
2. If your bike has a vacuum petcock, turn it to PRIME.
3. If your bike has a vacuum petcock but does NOT have a PRIME option, turn the petcock to ON
and turn the engine over until fuel fills the bowl.
If fuel does not enter the bowl, give the side of the float bowl a few sharp taps with the handle of a
screwdriver and try again.
First Start Procedure

With the engine cold and the float bowl full, fully engage the choke.
First Start for a Kick Only Bike
1. Give the bike a few easy kicks until you are at the top of the compression stroke.
a. If it is below 40°, kick it 2-3 more times with closed throttle and full choke
2. Give it a good kick from the top of the compression stroke with about ¼ throttle.
3. Warm the bike up using the throttle to keep the bike running.
4. Turn the choke off. Wait for the engine to finish warming up, then go for about a 10-minute test
ride.
First Start for an E-Start Bike
1. Turn the engine over with full choke and no throttle to prime it.
2. Give the bike 1/8th to ¼ throttle and turn the bike over and it should start right up.
3. Warm the bike up using the throttle to keep it running.
4. Turn the choke off. Wait for the engine to finish warming up, then go for about a 10-minute test
ride.
Gen II 4 Stroke Carb Anatomy
Idle Speed Screw (ISS)
The Idle Speed Screw (ISS) is a horizontal, brass screw that can be mounted on either side of the
carburetor. Threading it in raises the slide, allows
more airflow, and raises the idle RPM. Threading it
out lowers the slide, reduces the air flow, and
lowers the idle RPM. It is very sensitive should be
adjusted in 1/8th to 1/4 turn increments.
Idle Fuel Screw (IFS)
The Idle Fuel Screw (IFS) is a horizontal screw with a silver finish. It
is always located on the left side of the carburetor, and lower in
position than the ISS. It delivers all the fuel at idle and up to about
1/16th throttle. Threading it in limits the flow of fuel and leans out
the air fuel ratio (AFR) at idle. Threading it out increases the flow
of fuel and richens up the AFR at idle. As the AFR at idle changes,
the idle speed will too. It is very sensitive should be adjusted in
1/16th to 1/8th turn increments.
Power Jet (PJ)
The Power Jet (PJ) is a vertical
screw mounted on the top of the carburetor by the air box connection. It is your
fine-tuning device for half to wide open throttle positions. It is very sensitive
should be adjusted in 1/8th to 1/4 turn increments.
Metering Rod
The Metering Rod (MR) is in the slide of the carburetor. It delivers fuel from 1/16th throttle to wide
open. It is your main tuning device for instant response
and up to ½ throttle. It is adjustable in ¼ turn increments
and the flat side always must face the engine. On the Gen
II 4 Stroke carburetors, the metering rod delivers no fuel at idle.
Tuning
Warm the bike up before tuning. Do not tune for performance on the stand. While the Lectron
carburetors compensate for a wide
range of factors, some variable that can affect tuning include:
• Type of air filter • Exhaust

• Cleanliness of air filter • Ignition
• Compression • Port work
• Type of fuel • Extreme elevation
• Personal Preference
The Idle Speed Screw (ISS) and Idle Fuel Screw (IFS) are tuned together – one adds air and the other
adds fuel. Small adjustments make large changes. Each time the ISS is adjusted, the IFS tuning limits will
change slightly. Adjusting the ISS too far will cause the carburetor to start running on the metering rod.
Tuning the Idle Speed Screw (ISS)
Threading the ISS in increases the slide gap and raises the idle RPM. Threading it out decreases the slide
gap and lowers the idle RPM. From the stock setting, there is about ¾ of a turn of adjustment in either
direction. Once you adjust the ISS, you may need to readjust the IFS to balance out your idle RPM and
AFR at idle.
Threading the ISS in too far will bypass the IFS and cause it to idle on the rod. Threading the
ISS out too far will cause stiction when trying to go from closed throttle to open throttle at
high RPM. If you are reaching either of those limits, then you need to balance your ISS
adjustments by incrementally tuning the IFS.
Tuning the Idle Fuel Screw
To find the IFS tuning limits, turn the bike on and begin threading the adjustment screw out VERY slowly.
Within ¼ turn, you will hear the engine RPM drop off slightly. That is the richest possible IFS setting at
the current ISS setting.
Reset the IFS to the stock setting, then begin turning it in. When the engine RPM drops off slightly, you
are at the leanest IFS setting at the current ISS setting.
Once the tuning limits are found, you can tune the IFS within those limits.
Lean IFS conditions include a wandering idle, excessive popping on deceleration, a glowing header when
idling, and a rough transition from IFS to metering rod circuit (see Roll Up Test).
Rich IFS conditions can include an inconsistent or labored idle, pipe bang (one loud occasional pop in the
muffler), and a rough transition from IFS to metering rod circuit (see Roll Up Test).
Tuning the Metering Rod

Each Gen II 4 Stroke carburetor comes with a model specific metering rod that is preset from the factory
and should not need adjusting. However, there are certain instances where it may need to be fine-
tuned.
Depending on the ISS position, the metering rod will have about ¾ of a turn of adjustment either leaner
or richer. The metering rod is adjustable in ¼ turn increments. Threading it out (making it longer) makes
it leaner. Threading it in (making it shorter) makes it richer.
To make the metering rod slightly richer, you would:
1. Thread the metering rod in ¼ turn to make the adjustment.

2. Push the metering rod up into the slide to release it.
3. Rotate it back to where the flat side faces the engine to index it.
4. Release the metering rod so it is fully extended.
5. Reinstall it into the carburetor.
Lean metering rod symptoms can include surging at low or steady throttle positions, flat mid-range
power, gagging when hitting the throttle quickly and a white colored spark plug.
Rich metering rod symptoms can include excessive chugging, black smoke or soot coming from the
exhaust, a hiccup when hitting the throttle quickly, poor fuel mileage and a dark colored spark plug.
Tuning the Power Jet
The power jet is preset from the factory. The normal tuning parameters are ½ turn out from seated to 1
½ turns out from seated. If the power jet is outside of those parameters, then you may need another
metering rod.
If you are riding sand dunes, snowbiking, or using the bike at high throttle positions for an extended
period, you may to open up (richen) the power jet.
If you are at high elevations and the bike does not rev out, then you will need to tighten down (lean out)
your power jet.

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How do you install and tune the throttle and cable?

How do you install and tune the throttle and cable?

What are the steps to install the carburetor?

What are the steps to install the carburetor?

Gen II 4 Stroke Install and Tuning Manual

Installing the Throttle and Cable

Installing the Carburetor

Setting the Choke Tension

Filling the Float Bowl

First Start Procedure

First Start for a Kick Only Bike

First Start for an E-Start Bike

Idle Fuel Screw (IFS)

Power Jet (PJ)

The Power Jet (PJ) is a vertical

range of factors, some variable that can affect tuning include:

• Type of air filter • Exhaust

Tuning the Idle Speed Screw (ISS)

Tuning the Metering Rod

To make the metering rod slightly richer, you would:

1. Thread the metering rod in ¼ turn to make the adjustment.

Tuning the Power Jet

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