Permaculture For The Homestead Final
Permaculture For The Homestead Final
Permaculture For The Homestead Final
By Josh Thomas
Homesteading Family
Would you like to grow more food while improving the health of your soil?
Would you like to improve the sustainability of your land but don’t know where to
start?
It might sound like a contradiction to grow your own food while improving
your soil and doing it in less time with less energy. Instead of working with nature
to harvest nature’s abundance, we have tried to dominate using our modern
technology. But nature wants to thrive, and your self-sufficient garden dreams
can become a reality. It is totally possible to bring back a healthy, productive
balance.
By the end of our crash course, you’ll have practical tips to get you started
on your own land. It doesn’t matter where you are: if you have some sunlight,
some water, and a little soil, then you too can learn about permaculture.
Josh
Permaculture for the Homestead
Permaculture Basics
What is Permaculture?
Permaculture Ethics
Before we can move on to the actions you can take on your own property,
we have to establish a system of thoughts and guidelines. Permaculture has a set
of ethics to guide us so we can ethically take care of our responsibilities. There is
also a set of twelve design principals to help us as we design our landscapes and
make practical decisions. The three main ethics are:
Ultimately, we are trying to provide for ourselves by growing our own food.
We are providing for our families and loved ones, but we should also be helping
our communities. Caring for others is ethic number one.
Ethic number two is take care of natural resources. This is being responsible
to take care of the resources on the land that we have. We cannot properly fulfill
this ethic without stewarding the land, thinking about the choices we make, and
seeing if what we’re doing is sustainable.
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Our third ethic involves caring for others: pull not only a yield, but a
surplus. To care for our families, we need to pull a yield from the earth. To care
for others and the land itself, we need to pull more than a yield: we need a
surplus. All three ethics work together beautifully. To care for people, we have to
steward the land properly. As we’re stewarding the land, we need to get not only
a yield, but a surplus.
Just getting a yield is not enough. A yield is pulling enough from the garden
to feed your own family or fill your own freezer. Plenty of people think, “My
garden feeds my family and me, so that’s enough, right?” Actually, we have to do
more than that if we want to be sustainable, to grow more food, and to
experience abundance. Having a surplus is like getting interest on a bank account.
It gives us extra that we can put back into the earth (think compost). Nature has
no waste. If we are pulling from the land without returning to the land, then we
are degrading the landscape.
Also, if we are caring for people, we should be growing a surplus for the
community. This could be something like a market garden, or just growing extra
food for people in need. When we do it right, it is so cool to see what happens.
Not only is there plenty of yield to care for ourselves and our families, there is a
surplus for selling, helping others, and giving back to the land.
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4) Self-regulate
The fourth principle is to self-regulate. What are we under or over working and
where do we need to pull back? A classic example is animals on the pasture.
We grow all of our own meat, and over the years, as we’ve moved to different
properties and learned how to manage livestock, we’ve noticed a pattern. It’s
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a tendency of most people we’ve observed to just get as many animals on the
land as possible. That way, there will be a bigger harvest.
But the problem is that we may be taxing the land without giving enough
thought to that important question: what are we working and where do we
need to pull back? Always be looking to ALWAYS be improving your fertility
for the long run. Never sacrifice long term fertility for short term production.
We all need to regulate ourselves and say, “You know what? We just can’t
produce this much on this space until we improve the pasture.”.
5) Recycle everything
Design principle five is recycle everything. Permaculture seeks to work with
nature, not against it. What does nature do? It doesn’t produce any waste but
recycles everything. When creatively problem solved, most items have multip
possible uses... find another use for something that could be considered
“waste”.
6) Produce no waste
Priciple five fits right in with principle six, produce no waste. It seems
redundant, but the emphasis is to recycle what we have. My “waste” refers to
things that have to go offsite because they are unusable. Again, nature does
not produce waste, so we want to reduce ours as much as possible but even
better than that is to not produce anything that cannot be recycled.
8) Stack functions
Design principle eight is one of my favorites: stack functions. Even in the
garden, each vegetable has its own place and its own role. How do these roles
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benefit each other and where can we stack functions? Where can we put two
elements that benefit each other?
Chickens are a classic example of this. Not only do they lay eggs and
provide meat, they also produce manure, which improves soil fertility.
Chickens also eat bugs, which are found in abundance in the garden and cow
pasture. While the chickens are providing meat and eggs, there’s a lot of work
we can have them do. This is an example of stacking functions.
Water is one of our key resources. No matter where you’re at, you get
some amount of water – depending on where you are, maybe you get too much!
Most places also have a dry season, even if they get plenty of water the rest of
the year. We need to learn how to control the water and how to get rid of excess
to prevent erosion. Look at your landscape and think about what’s happening
with the water.
What we want to do is catch water, slow it down as it’s running through our
land, let it sink in, and get rid of excess without erosion. What can you do to help
water sink into your land where it’s needed?
Most of us have roads. If your road has a hard surface, look at the water it
sheds. Where does it go? Is it taking some of your precious soil with it? An easy
way to get that water to sink into your landscape without doing damage is digging
a few ditches by hand to spread the water out to different areas.
Another crucial area that needs water is your garden. Not everyone has flat
ground, and even if they do, some of the water will still run off. How can you
catch the water and keep the soil? Again, simple hand-dug ditches will often do
the trick, though sometimes machinery is needed. The goal is to divert excess
water to gently spread out over an area. When you cover your soil, as we will talk
about in just a minute, it helps with water absorption and keeps the ground from
eroding.
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If you have any bare dirt on your property, you are losing an opportunity to
create abundance. Bare dirt is also a problem because it gets washed away when
it rains. You need to get that area covered up.
There are a couple of different things you can use to cover bare dirt. One is
mulch, which is just carbonaceous material, but you have to be very, very careful
about pesticides and sprays. Always know your source.
A great option for a lot of people is tree chips. Tree companies trim trees
and then chip up the branches, so this material is all ready to go. This is an
excellent way to cover your soil, slow down erosion, and help water absorption.
Eventually, your mulch and chips will break down, and then you’ll be able to plant
a cover crop.
Cover Crops
There are different plants and different strategies used in cover cropping.
Actually, you can strategically use weeds to cover crop. As soon as you get some
moisture in a bare place, there is something that wants to come up – oftentimes
something we don’t want. But you can take those weeds, let them grow, and then
chop them down before they start to seed. That is better than bare ground.
Absolutely do not spray those weeds, and don’t try to kill them. Let them grow
just to the point of seeding so you get a lot of bio mass and then cut them down.
Mow them and leave them.
Growing weeds is much better than having bare ground. After you’ve used
the weeds to keep an area covered, cut them down and mulch the area. You can
let the weeds keep growing or you can buy a cover crop seed mix that’s
appropriate for your area. Just doing this will slow down erosion, catch water, and
start biological activity in your soil.
you? Even beautiful flowers and bushes contribute something. However you go
about it, start thinking about covering your soil.
Let’s step back for a moment and look at the first two actions. By catching
water and covering soil, you are starting to create a process of life. As you do
these things, you’re also setting the stage to be able to grow more. Now, let’s
turn our attention to plant diversity. After you’ve gone to the work of catching
water and covering your soil, you don’t want to just put in a lawn. Even the cover
crop we talked about is just a start.
In permaculture, we have what are called food forests and gilds. They start
to put different elements together. Instead of just planting an orchard, we would
first plant trees. We might want to plant large trees to shade the fruit trees. Then,
underneath the fruit trees we might put berry bushes, and underneath those
vines or small bushes. We don’t have time to get into all of that, but I want you to
think about planting diversity and getting more onto your property.
Think about different heights and different plants. Look for diversity. If all
you can do is buy a tree and a berry bush, then do it! If you have an area that
you’ve cover cropped, don’t just turn it into lawn. Get some ground cover on it
and plant fruit bushes. Do something that creates productivity. Over time, you
can add more elements and build over the ones that you already have.
At this point, you can experiment and have fun. Don’t be afraid of failure. It
gets so exciting when you start thinking about all the different things you can
plant. Not only will you start to have a yield, you’ll have a natural surplus that is
going to give back. It will give you material to put back into your soil, which will
help catch water, which in turn will create a biologically active system to help you
grow more. You are starting to put nature to work for you.
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There is one more action item that you can start thinking about, and this is
stacking functions. Now, you’re already building a system like we’ve talked about,
but how can you add other elements of your homestead and make things work
together? We’re going to use the chicken example again.
Let’s say that you’ve got some chickens. Maybe you have an area that
needs to be rehabilitated so you can put some of those ideas we’ve talked about
into practice. You might be thinking, “Man, it’s just so weedy, I don’t think I can
get anything to grow there. How do I get control exactly?”
This is where stacking functions comes in. You can get some chickens and
stick them in that area! Whether they’re layers or meat birds, you can put up
temporary fencing and start stacking functions. Not only will the chickens eat the
weeds and help clear out that area, they are also providing manure to help break
things down. Plus, you won’t need to give them as much feed.
That was just a small example. Let’s move to something bigger. An example
of using chickens in a large context would be allowing them to go where the cows
have been. Chickens actually break up the cow patties and manure as they spread
it out to look for fly larvae. Not only are they putting down manure, they are also
spreading manure and eating bugs.
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Yes, you read that right. One of the very first things you can do is to reduce
or stop tilling the ground. Our modern concept is that tilling is productive. Well,
yes, it is, but only for a short term. In reality, it has long term consequences.
Tilling breaks up the natural layers in the ground, slowing down and eventually
destroying the essential soil biology necessary for growing healthy, nutritious
food.
There are times when tilling is appropriate. For instance, when you want to
loosen compact soil or when you want to turn sod into a garden plot. But tilling
isn’t something that needs to be or should be done every year because it actually
just compacts and damages the soil.
Another great benefit that happens when you stop tilling is that your weed
population will immediately decrease. Every time you till, you are bringing seeds
up to the surface and causing them to germinate. When you stop tilling, you only
have to pull the seeds on the surface. There’s a time-saver!
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You need to create a system that will catch water and give excess a way to
drain. If you’re on a slope, your garden beds need to follow the contour of the
slope and have a natural way to drain if you get excessive rain. Remember the
ditches that we talked about earlier. Look for ways to prevent erosion as you
create permanent gardens beds that are not dependent on tilling.
You want to work to keep your soil covered at all times, and we’re starting
to achieve that as we move to a no-tilling system. But, in an annual garden, there
will always be sections that will have to be exposed to plant certain crops (think of
beds with lettuces). Our goal is to minimize the time that the soil is exposed, and
there are several ways to do this.
One way is to cover the soil with mulch, mimicking what nature does in
forests and prairies. You can also do cover crops or green manure. Green manure
is a valuable, fast-growing, dense crop that isn’t generally for consumption,
although sometimes there’s an exception like peas. Green manure crops are good
for the soil, but they should be grown in areas that you’re not going to plant until
later in the season.
Now, I know that there are some beds you have to leave exposed (I’m
thinking of our succession lettuce beds). For those beds, I plant very densely. In
areas that I’m not going to use, I put a landscape cloth or tarp over the bare beds.
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This is a method I use for all of the garden. I try to plant everything very
densely so that the soil is covered as quickly as possible. You can always go back
and thin (the veggies you thin are yield,too!). There is a little extra work, yes, but
you’ll be getting a yield and a surplus to share with someone else. This method
also really discourages weeds. Remember, you need to keep your soil covered
one way or another, and this way generally yields the best results.
Nature does not do mono crops, and it certainly doesn’t do straight rows of
one variety. Rather, it is diverse and mixes things up. This is healthy and causes
the plants to play off each other. The plants benefit each other above soil, as they
shade each other, exchange nutrients, and bring in pollinators, but they also
benefit each other below ground. The more diversity of root structure, the more
diversity of biological life in the soil, which creates a healthier soil.
Three well-known companions are corn, squash, and beans. As the corn
grows, it creates a physical structure for the beans. The beans return nitrogen to
the soil while the squash spreads out and provides shade. In turn, the squash gets
shade from the other two. That’s just one example. Another good set of
companions is beans, cabbage, and broccoli.
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Beneficial species aren’t necessarily things you consume. This can be birds
that prey on bugs giving you problems. I like to plant sunflowers to attract those
helpful birds. You might have a problem with wasps. But wasps actually come in
and eat little bugs and grasshoppers that could give you problems. Some wasps
are also pollinators. Also, plant flowers that bring in pollinators right in the middle
of your garden. Encourage beneficial species, whether birds, bugs, or flowers.
Conclusion
Finally, have fun! You can’t harm or destroy anything as long as you are
encouraging nature. You’re learning about how nature works, how it was
created, and how you can mimic those systems to create more abundance.
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