esigner

DStitch

DS #0118 - SYNTHIA RUFFLE TOP

multi-sized pattern : (AU/UK) 6/8/10/12/14/16/18/20/22/24/26
(US) 2/4/6/8/10/12/14/16/18/20/22
(EU) 34/36/38/40/42/44/46/48/50/52/54
CUP SIZES - B, C, D, DD(E)
Evoking the soft and flirty trans seasonal vibe the Synthia is a feminine silhouette
featuring a ruffle collar and waterfall armhole frill. A semi fitted shape the Synthia is
both figure flattering and easy to wear. The Synthia pattern easily translates from work
to evening glamour.
SKILL LEVEL - © www.designerstitch.com.
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index
TABLE OF CONTENTS: PAGE
Cover. 1.

Table of Contents. 2.

Contact us. 2.

Sizing Chart. 3 - 4.
CONTACT US:
Choosing Cup Sizes. 5.

Finished Garment Measures. 6.

Printing Your Pattern . 7.

Taping the PDF Pages. 8 - 9. Email : [email protected]

Pattern Pieces. 10. Facebook : DesignerStitch

DesignerStitch Pattern Support

Shopping/Fabrics . 11.
Instagram : DesignerStitch
Pattern Info. 12.
Pinterest : DesignerStitch
Fabric Requirements. 13. www.designerstitch.com

Cutting Layouts. 13 - 14.

Sewing Instructions. 15 - 18.

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SIZING CHART- Designer Stitch patterns are designed to be “true-to-size”. There is not a lot of
extra ease loaded into the styles so please choose the size that is closest to your own body
measurements. The patterns can be altered to fit your size and shape. We would recommend that you
make a test fitting sample before cutting into your main fabric - similar weight fabric to your intended
final garment is a must for test fitting. Your test sample can be constructed from the main pattern pieces
so you can fine tune for any fit variances.

1.

3.

Sizing your garment will be based on 3 main measurements.

1. Bust Circumference: Horizontal measurement at fullest part of the bust making sure the tape
measure is horizontal around the body.
2. Waist Circumference: Horizontal measurement at natural waist ( your belly button is not your waist).
3. Hip Circumference: Horizontal measurement at fullest part of your hip line. Try different positions -
abdomen, buttocks and high thighs and use the biggest measure.

The chart on page 4 offers many additional measurements to fine tune your fit. For details on how and
where to measure your body please see the help chart at http://designerstitch.com/sizing/
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PATTERN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
SIZE

equivalent to :

US 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22

AUSTRALIAN/ 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26
UK

EU 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54

80cms 85cms 90cms 95cms 100cms 105cms 110cms 115cms 120cms 125cms 130cms
Bust (32”) (34”) (36”) (38”) (40”) (42”) (44”) (46”) (48”) (50”) (52”)

60cms 65cms 70cms 75cms 80cms 85cms 90cms 95cms 100cm 105cm 110cm
Natural Waist (23½”) (25½”) (27½”) (29½”) (31½”) (33½”) (35½”) (37½”) (39½”) (41½”) (43½”)

86cms 91cms 96cms 101cms 106cms 111cms 116cms 121cms 126cms 131cms 136cms
Full Hip (34”) (36”) (38”) (40”) (42”) (44”) (46”) (48”) (50”) (52”) (54”)
(20cms below waist)

Centre Back 40.4 cms 41 cms 41.6cms 42.2 cms 42.8cms 43 .4cms 44 cms 44.6 cms 45.2 cms 45.8cms 46.4cms
(nape to waist)
(16”) (16⅛”) (16⅜”) (16½”) (16¾”) (17”) (17¼”) (17½”) (17¾”) (18”) (18¼”)

Centre Front 43.8 cms 44.4 cms 45 cms 45.6 cms 46.2cms 46.8 cms 47.4 cms 48cms 48.6 cms 49.2cms 49.8 cms
(side neck to waist)
(17⅛”) (17⅜”) (17⅝”) (17⅞”) (18⅛”) (18⅜”) (18⅝”) (18⅞”) (19⅛”) (19⅜) (19⅝”)
27.8 cms 28.4 cms 29 cms 29.6 cms 30.2cms 30.8 cms 31.4 cms 32 cms 32.6 cms 33.2 cms 33.8 cms
Bust Depth (10⅞”) (11⅛”) (11⅜”) (11⅝”) (11⅞”) (12⅛”) (12⅜”) (12⅝”) (12⅞”) (13⅛”) (13⅜”)

19.8 cms 20.4 cms 21 cms 21.6 cms 22.2cms 22.8 cms 23.4 cms 24 cms 24.6 cms 25.2 cms 25.8 cms
Bust Separation (7¾”) (8 ”) (8¼”) (8½”) (8¾”) (9”) (9¼”) (9½”) (9¾”) (10”) (10¼”)

11.4 cms 11.7 cms 12 cms 12.3 cms 12.6cms 12.9 cms 13.2 cms 13.5 cms 13.8 cms 14.1cms 14.4cms
Shoulder (4½”) (4⅝”) (4¾”) (4⅞”) (5 “) (5⅛”) (5¼”) (5⅜”) (5½”) (5⅝”) (5¾”)
Length

35.6 cms 36.8 cms 38 cms 39.2 cms 40.4cms 41.6 cms 42.8 cms 44 cms 45.2 cms 46.4 cms 47.6 cms
Neck Circum (14 “) (14½”) ( 15 “) (15½”) (16 “) (16½”) (17 “) (17½”) (18”) (18½”) (19”)

57.8 cms 58.4 cms 59 cms 59.6 cms 60.2cms 60.8 cms 61.4 cms 62 cms 62.6 cms 63.2 cms 63.8 cms
Sleeve Length (22⅝”) (22⅞”) (23⅛”) (23⅜”) (23⅝”) (23⅞”) (24⅛”) (24⅜”) (24⅝”) (24⅞”) (25⅛”)

25.6cms 26.8cms 28cms 29.2cms 30.4cms 31.6cms 32.8cms 34cms 35.2cms 36.4cms 37.6cms
Bicep (10”) (10½”) (11”) (11½”) (12”) (12½”) (13”) (13½”) (14”) (14½”) (15”)

26.8 cms 27.4 cms 28 cms 28.6 cms 29.2cms 29.8 cms 30.4 cms 31 cms 31.6 cms 32.2 cms 32.8 cms
Crotch Depth (10½”) (10¾”) (11 “) (11¼”) (11½”) (11¾”) (12”) (12¼”) (12½”) (12¾”) (13”)
(from natural waist)

82cms 82cms 82cms 82cms 82cms 82cms 82cms 82cms 82cms 82cms 82cms
Inside Leg (32½") (32½") (32½") (32½") (32½") (32½") (32½") (32½") (32½") (32½") (32½")
(full length only)
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Choosing your Cup Size
Unfortunately there is no exact science in determining your cup size. While I have provided patterns graded in cup
sizes - B, C, D, and DD some fitting and tapering will be needed to fine tune the fit of your garment.
TO ENSURE YOU ACHIEVE YOUR BEST FIT A TEST GARMENT IN SIMILAR WEIGHT FABRIC IS A MUST !!!
Ensure you are wearing a well fitted bra !!!!

To check your cup size, take your bust (A) and high bust(B) measurements and record them.

Next, determine your cup size by subtracting your high bust measure from your bust measure.
If your bust is 2.5cms - 5 cms (1” to 2” ) larger than your high bust you are a B Cup.
If your bust is 5 cms - 7.5 cms (2” to 3” ) larger than your high bust you are a C Cup.
If your bust is 7.5 cms - 10 cms (3” to 4” ) larger than your high bust you are a D Cup.
If your bust is 10 cms - 12.5 cms (4” to 5” ) larger than your high bust you are a DD Cup.

Pattern Size Selection - your high bust measurement will determine what pattern size to use and the above calculation
will determine what cup size front pattern pieces to use. Use the size chart on page 4 to select your pattern size (based
on high bust measurement) along with your cup size.
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FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS (approx)

PATTERN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
SIZE
87cms 92cms 97cms 102cms 107cms 112cms 117cms 122cms 127cms 132cms 137cms
BUST - B cup
(34¼”) (36¼”) (38¼”) (40¼”) (42¼”) (44¼”) (46¼”) (48¼”) (50¼”) (52¼”) (54¼”)

89.5 cms 94.5cms 99.5 cms 104.5cm 109.5cm 114.5cm 119.5cm 124.5cm 129.5cm 134.5cm 139.5cm
BUST - C cup
(35¼”) (37¼”) (39¼”) (41¼”) (43¼”) (45¼”) (47¼”) (49¼”) (51¼”) (53¼”) (55¼”)

92 cms 97 cms 102 cms 107cms 112cms 117cms 122cms 127cms 132cms 137cms 142cms
BUST - D cup
(36¼”) (38¼”) (40¼”) (42¼”) (44¼”) (46¼”) (48¼”) (50¼”) (52¼”) (54¼”) (56¼")

94.5 cms 99.5 cms 104.5cm 109.5cm 114.5cm 119.5cm 124.5cm 129.5cm 134.5cm 139.5cm 144.5cm
BUST - DD cup
(37¼”) (39¼”) (41¼”) (43¼”) (45¼”) (47¼”) (49¼”) (51¼”) (53¼”) (55¼”) (57¼")

81cms 86 cms 91 cms 96 cms 101 cms 106 cms 111 cms 116 cms 121 cm 126 cm 131 cm
WAIST
31¾" 33¾” 35¾” 37¾” 39¾” 41¾” 43¾” 45¾” 47¾" 49¾” 51¾”
CIRCUMFERENCE

91.5cm 96.5cm 101.5cm 106.5cm 111.5cm 116.5cm 121.5cm 126.5cm 131.5cm 136.5cm 141.5cm
HIP
(36”) (38”) (40”) (42”) (44") (46”) (48”) (50”) (52”) (54”) (56")
CIRCUMFERENCE
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PRINTING -
This pattern includes layers that allow you to choose the sizes that you wish to print on both the Print-
at-Home and A0 Copy Shop PDF. Please refer to the size chart given at the beginning of these
instructions as my garments are “true-to-size”.

In Adobe Reader, click on the layers icon which is on the left hand side of the black navigation bar.
Click on the eyeball to turn the size layers on or off.
If you are grading multiple sizes ( please refer to the size chart), make sure to have displayed (turned on)
all the sizes you need. Or you can just print your single size if you are standard to the sizing chart. If you
are printing at a copy shop, be sure to specify which size/layers you want them to print.

Make sure before printing that your scaling is turned “off” in the printer’s dialogue box and that it is set
to scale at 100%. (Or page scaling should be set to none. Each printer has a different dialogue box so
double check!). Ensure that page “orientation” is also set to “Auto/Portrait Landscape”.
Print out the pattern page that contains the calibration square - page 2.
Measure the square (5cms or 2”) to make sure that your pattern piece was printed to the correct size.
Pages 7 to 8 detail how many tiles for the Synthia Top and taping order.
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TAPING THE SYNTHIA TOP PATTERN TOGETHER.

Cut off the borders as indicated. You don’t have to cut off all edges as I have provided a “symbol” that shows
which edges to cut off.

Once all necessary edges are cut you can then tape your pattern together matching the light grey circles and
work in numerical order. This is your template after taping together.

The template consists of 47 pattern tiles. Tiles run 1-7 across the top of the template and the subsequent
tiles run as shown in the diagram. Please ensure that you match up the circle symbol when taping the
edges.
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TAPING THE SYNTHIA TOP A0 file together.

Cut off the borders as indicated. You don’t have to cut off all edges as I have provided a “symbol” that shows
which edges to cut off.

Once all necessary edges are cut you can then tape your pattern together matching the light grey circles and
work in numerical order. This is your template after taping together. The template consists of 3 A0 pages.
Tiles run 1-2 across the top of the template.
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pattern pieces

1 2 4 3

6
5
To make the Synthia please use the relevant pattern pieces.
Pattern Tile Guide
1. Back - Cut 2 1-2, 8-10, 15-17, 22-24
2. Front - Cut 1 FOLD B-Cup 3-4, 10-12, 17-19, 24-26
C-Cup 22-23, 29-31, 34-36, 39-41
D-Cup 24-25, 31-33, 36-38, 41-43
DD-Cup 40-43, 44-48
3. Back Neck Ruffle - Cut 2 19-21, 26-28
4. Front Neck Ruffle - Cut 1 Fold 5-7, 12-14
5. Neck Bind - Cut 1 33, 38, 43
6. Armhole Bind - Cut 2 33, 38, 43

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SHOPPING LIST FABRIC
Please use the following only as a suggestion.
Depending on your skill level you should choose
- Fabric and matching colour thread.
the appropriate weight fabric. Cottons and cotton
types are much easier to use than silk types as these
- 50 cms (20") invisible zipper
fabrics can be a bit slippery to handle.

Light to medium weight fabrics without a

distinguishable right and wrong side.
- Satin Back Crepe or Crepe types
- Silk and Silk Types
- Faille and Faille types
- Chirimen and Chirimen types.

SEAM ALLOWANCES are included. All main seams have 1.5 cms (5/8") unless otherwise stated.
Designer Stitch Patterns use industrial construction methods to give you a professional finish so there
will be steps where the seam allowance may vary .
THIS WILL BE CLEARLY INDICATED AT EACH STEP METHOD.

STORING YOUR PATTERN - As this pattern is a multi-sized one it is best to trace off your size
with tissue or similar paper and leave the taped template intact. That way if you happen to have a
missing pattern piece or you need to make body size adjustments in the future you will still have the
master at hand. For storage of the master you could hang it up with bull-dog clips on a coat hanger in a
spare wardrobe or fold it flat and store in a large zip-lock bag.

TERMS OF USE - This pattern can be used to make garments for personal use only.
No part of this document may be sold or re-distributed in any form including digital and/or printed
form.

If your family and friends would like to have a copy of this pattern, please ask them to purchase their
own at www.designerstitch.com

Why don’t you visit www.designerstitch.com

for more ideas, tips, tricks and tutorials. We would love you to say HELLO !!!!
#synthia….#synthiaruffle….#synthiaruffletop....#synthiatop
#designerstitch….. @designerstitch
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PRE-WASH YOUR FABRICS
Wash your fabrics as you would wash any similar garment. Your fabric must be washed/laundered prior
to cutting out your garment as this will circumvent any shrinkage that may occur in your fabric. If you are
not sure how your fabric will react please wash a test square first. If there is no change to the test square
fabric then it can be laundered successfully either by a gentle machine wash setting or by hand washing.

PATTERN SYMBOLS AND MEANINGS.

CUT ON FOLD
SIZE KEY
Cut on fold of Fabric
1
Cut on Straight Grain of Fabric
(parallel to the selvedge)
STRAIGHT GRAIN
2

Notch - match point to align two

3
pattern pieces together. 4
Lengthen or Shorten Line. 5
(pattern is cut along these lines to either shorten or add extra length)
6
Seam Allowances.
Seam allowances will vary throughout the pattern. At each 7
sewing step the required seam allowances will be clearly
stated.
8
Sides of the Fabric. 9
10
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING
11
Follow the relevant Size Key line for
your size as defined in this chart.
DEFINITIONS.
STAY STITCHING - a row of larger length machine stitches that prevents the garment edge from stretch-
ing while handling.
UNDER STITCHING - a row of machine stitching to keep the seam allowance “under” the garment. Made
by pressing seam allowance towards the facing and then stitching close to the edge (2-3mm)(⅛") of the
seam on the facing side on the top-side of the garment. Ensure that the seam allowance is caught on the
underside.
TOP STITCHING - A row of stitching very close to the edge of a seam or garment. It is also known as
edge-stitching - and hence the name - sew on the top-side of the garment.
WRST - With right sides of fabric together.
CF - Centre Front
CB - Centre Back
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Using the following Fabric Requirements chart.
The fabric requirements chart has been divided into individual requirements depending on the style/option
that you choose and is only to be used as a guide. It is HIGHLY recommended that once you have your
pattern pieces ready you use a piece of fabric from your stash and lay out your pattern using the layout
guide. If you lay your pattern pieces you WILL be able to calculate your meterage/yardage as less than
indicated in the charts.
Fabric Requirements (Metres/Yards)
Additional fabric may be required for directional/one way print designs

SYNTHIA RUFFLED TOP

SIZE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10/11
115 cms /45” 1.70 m 1.70 m 1.80 m 1.80 m 2.30 m 2.30 m 2.60 m 2.60 m 2.60 m 2.60 m
1 ⅞ yds 1 ⅞ yds 2 yds 2 yds 2 ½ yds 2 ½ yds 2 ¾yds 2 ¾yds 2 ¾yds 2 ¾ yds
150cms / 60” 1.10 m 1.40 m 1.60 m 1.60 m 1.70 m 1.70 m 1.70 m 1.80 m 1.80 m 1.80 m
1 ½ yds 1 ½ yds 1 ¾ yds 1 ¾ yds 1 ⅞ yds 1 ⅞ yds 1 ⅞ yds 2 yds 2 yds 2 yds

115 cms / 45 " wide fabric

SELVEDGES

1 Cutting Layout for Sizes 1 to 4.

6 5 Fold the fabric in half . Cut all pieces.
3
4
2
FOLDLINE

SELVEDGES

1
4 5
3 6
2 Cutting Layout for Sizes 5 to 11.
Fold the fabric in half . Cut all pieces.
FOLDLINE
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cutting layouts
150 cms / 60 " wide fabric

SELVEDGES

1
3 Cutting Layout for Sizes 1 to 4.
Fold the fabric in half . Cut all pieces.

4 5
2 6

FOLDLINE

SELVEDGES

1 6
5
Cutting Layout for Sizes 5 to 11.
Fold the fabric in half . Cut all pieces.
4 3

FOLDLINE
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sewing instructions
Note : Please ensure all pattern information is Step 3 - Side Seams Neck Ruffle
marked to the wrong side of your fabric and that all (Seam Allow 1.5 cms (⅝”))
notches are transfered to your fabric.
WRST pin front and back together at side seams matching
Step 1 - Back Shoulder Darts, Front Side Bust notches. Stitch. Press. Complete both sides. (Alternatively
Darts and Shoulder Seams complete a french seam on each side.)
(Seam Allow 1.5 cms (⅝”))

WRST pin back shoulder dart and stitch . Press.

WRST pin and stitch front side bust darts. Press.
WRST pin back and front shoulder seams. Stitch. Press.

Step 4 - Neck Ruffle Outer Hem Edge

(Seam Allow 12mm (½”))

Turn outer edge of ruffle 6mm (¼"). Pin and press. Baste.
Turn outer edge of ruffle over another 6mm (¼"). Pin and
press. Top stitch.

Step 2 - Side Seams

(Seam Allow 1.5 cms (⅝”))

WRST pin back and front side seams. Stitch. Press.

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sewing instructions
Step 5 - Shoulder Seams on Neck Ruffle Step 6 - Neck Ruffle to Neckline and
(Seam Allow 6mm (¼”)) Armhole
(Seam Allow 6mm (¼”))
WRST pin inner edge of back and front neck ruffle between
indicated notches - NK PT and SHLD PT. Stitch and reinforce
ends of stitching with a double stitch. Clip into these 2 notch Place wrong side of neck ruffle against right side of garment
points but be very careful not to clip beyond. The clip must body matching shoulder seam of ruffle to shoulder seam of
be 6mm (¼") only. Turn to right sides and press only this body and side seam of ruffle against side seam of body. Pin neck
shoulder seam open. edges and armhole edges together. Baste in place. Ensure your
basting seam allowance is exactly 6mm(¼") as this stitch line
will be used as a guide when applying binding in the next steps.

Step 5 - Completed Ruffle

The following illustration shows the ruffle completed in

Step 5. The wrong side of the ruffle is placed on top of
the right side of the body in Step 6. Step 7 - Armhole Bind
(Seam Allow 6mm (¼”))

Pin diagonal edges of armhole bind together in the “round”

and sew making sure you match up cut edges at the
6mm(1/4") seam allowance junction. Press seam allowances
to one side and then pin bind in half with wrong sides
together in the “round”. Press folded edge.
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sewing instructions
Step 8 - Bind to Neckline and Armhole Step 10 - Centre Back Zipper
(Seam Allow 6mm (¼”)) (Seam Allow 1.5 cms (⅝”))

With wrong sides together press neckband in 1/2 length ways. An invisible zipper is inserted in an entirely open seam; the rest
Pin the cut edges of the neck bind to the right side of the of the seam is stitched after the
neckline matching end of bind to edge of back neck. Ease the application is completed.
neckline on to the binding - the bind has been cut slightly • Use the foot designed for the zipper brand you are
smaller. Stitch the neck binding to the neckline using the using because coil sizes of zippers vary.
basting stitch line as a guide. Press the bind flat and away • Stitch from top to bottom of zipper.
from the neckline. The back ruffle edge will be caught into zipper when sewing so
Pin the cut edges of the armhole bind to the right side of the baste edge of ruffle in place along CB
armhole matching shoulder line and side seams. Ease the before zipper commencement.
armhole on to the binding - the bind has been cut slightly
smaller. Stitch the armhole bind to the armhole using the
basting stitch line as a guide. Press the bind flat and away Step 11 - Centre Back Zipper Insertion
from the armhole.
cont'
(Seam Allowance 1.5 cms (⅝”))
Attach the invisible zipper foot to the machine, with the
needle lined up with centre mark.
Place open zipper face-down on right side of fabric as
shown.
Pin in place with coil on seam line and top stop 3mm (⅛”)
below finished top edge of garment.

With right-hand groove of foot over coil, stitch zipper until

the foot hits the slider. (remove pins as you come to them)
Back-tack.

Step 9 - Top Stitch Bind ZIPPER COIL SITTING

AT THE SEAM
LINE
Fold the neck bind to the inside of the garment making sure
the bind rolls approx 1.5mm (1/16") to the inside of the gar-
ment. Pin in place. Press. Fold the neck ruffle out of the way CUT EDGE OF
top stitch the bind in place approx 6mm (¼") from edge of OPENING
neckline. Repeat this step for both armholes.
CORRECT SIDE OF
FABRIC
You will have to stop and restart top stitching under the shoul-
der ruffle (as the ruffle is pinned to the armhole and cannot be
completely moved out of the way at that point)

SLIDER WRONG SIDE

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sewing instructions
Step 12 - Centre Back Zipper Insertion Step 13 - Centre Back Zipper Insertion
cont' cont'
(Seam Allowance 1.5 cms (⅝”)) (Seam Allowance 1.5 cms (⅝”))
To attach the other half of the zipper, pin tape face-down Close zipper. Slide zipper foot to the left so that needle is in
with coil on seam line and top stop 3mm (⅛”) below finished the outer notch or change your foot to your standard zipper
top edge of garment. foot.

Make sure that the zipper is not twisted at the bottom. Use
the left-hand groove of foot, making sure that the centre Pin the seam together below zipper opening. Fold end of
marking is still lined up with the needle and stitch, as before. zipper out of the way and lower the needle by hand slightly
above and to the left of the last stitch approx 1cms (⅜”)
above the last stitch of the invisible zipper insertion.
RAW EDGE OF GARMENT

You have two options now . Stitch seam for about 5 cms (2”),
as shown. Continue stitching length of seam with zipper
foot or finish seam here. Change to regular presser foot and
complete the seam.

At zipper end, stitch about 2.5 cms (1”) of each zipper tape
to seam allowance only.
CUT EDGE
OF GARMENT EDGE OF GARMENT

FABRIC
WRONG
SIDE

SLIDER FABRIC
WRONG WRONG
SIDE
SIDE

STITCHING LINE
Step 14 - Hemming. FOR ZIPPER
INSERTION

Body Hem= 2.0 cms (¾”)

Fold and hand stitch top of zipper tape into the turn of the seam
allowance. SEAM
ALLOWANCE
Press and enjoy wearing your new Synthia Ruffled Top !!!! STITCHING LINE
TO CLOSE SEAM
Well Done !!!!
#synthia….#synthiaruffle….#synthiaruffletop....
#synthiatop #designerstitch….. @designerstitch
www.designerstitch.com