02 Homemade Recipes Book

Lip Balms
Apricot-Orange Lip Gloss

Submitted by Helle of Brabrand, ALL
Ingredients:
1 tsp. beeswax
1 tsp. apricot kernel oil
1 tsp. calendula oil
3-4 drops of essential oil of orange
Mica for coloring or beet root infused oil (optional)
Instructions:
Add apricot kernel oil and calendula oil, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, add FDA approved
mica or beet root infused oil if desired for color. When partially cooled, add essential oil of orange.
Pour into lip balm jars or tubes. This is the best lip gloss......good luck!
Avocado Lip Balm

Submitted by Linda of Buffalo, MN
For the softest lips you’ve ever had!
Ingredients:
.8 oz. Coconut or virgin coconut oil

.8 oz. Avocado Oil
.8 oz. Beeswax
.4 oz. Mango Butter
20 drops flavor oil
Instructions:
Melt all the ingredients and mix together. Makes about 24 tubes.
Basic Lip Balm

Submitted by Jasmine of Corona, CA
Ingredients:
1 teaspoon beeswax
2 teaspoons coconut oil
1 vitamin E capsule
2-3 drops flavor oil
Instructions:
Melt beeswax coconut, and vitamin E together. Then add your flavor oil. Place in a tube or pot.
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Bubble Gum Lip Gloss
Submitted by Annmarie of Columbus, OH
Ingredients:
6 tsp jojoba oil

1 tsp aloe vera oil
3 tsp white beeswax
10 drops Bubble gum Flavor Oil
1/4 tsp red gold two tone mica
Instructions:
In a glass measuring cup melt beeswax in the microwave, add the oils (you may need to put in
back in the microwave for a few seconds more). Stir in the bubble gum flavored oil and mica. Let it
cool for about 5 mins. Give it more more quick stir and pour into lip gloss pots.
Cocoa Vanilla Lip Gloss

Submitted by Sue Ellen of Mesa, AZ
Heavenly smelling and sweet tasting treat for your lips
Ingredients:
16 teaspoons sweet almond or peach kernel oil

4 teaspoons beeswax
4 teaspoons cocoa butter
4 teaspoons honey
24 drops vanilla flavor oil
1 teaspoon vitamin E 250 IU
Instructions:
Put oil, cocoa butter and beeswax into a glass jar. Place jar in pan of boiling water over medium
heat. Stir occasionally and heat until all are melted. Remove from heat and add honey, flavor oil
and vitamin E oil. Mix well and pour into containers. Makes approx 12-13 1/4 oz containers.
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Darlene’s Healing Lip Balm
Submitted by Darlene of Penna. Furnace, PA
Ingredients:
1 tsp. beeswax pellets

1 tsp. cocoa butter (previously ground in food processor for easy measuring)
1/2 tsp. jojoba oil
1/2 tsp. Nature’s Gate vitamin E oil (This is what I had on hand to use. It is vit. E in a base of
grapeseed and calendula oils. I’m sure you can substitute with a similar oil that has healing
properties.)
5 drops (or less) peppermint essential oil
2 drops tea tree essential oil
Instructions:
Melt everything except essential oils in a double boiler. Remove from heat. Let cool slightly before
adding essential oils. Pour into lip balm tin, cap tightly and let cool.
(I like this in a small lip balm tin that I keep in my front pants pocket. Body heat softens the lip
balm slightly, but is still good when at room temperature. I’m not sure, but it may be too soft in a
lip balm tube that’s kept in the front pants pocket. In this case, a little more beeswax may help.)
Emu Oil Lip Balm

Submitted by Cindy of Allegan, MI
Ingredients:
1 oz. Emu Oil

1 oz. Beeswax
.8 oz. Almond Oil
.5 oz. Avocado Oil
.5 oz. Aloe Oil
.2 oz. Olive Oil
4 Drops Lavender Essential Oil
4 Drops Tea Tree Essential Oil
Instructions:
Melt beeswax in microwave.
Stir in emu, almond, avocado, aloe and olive oils.
Stir very well. Stir some more. If you do not stir enough, the lip balm will be lumpy. Stir in Essential
oils. Continue to stir until it cools a good bit. Place in containers and allow to finish cooling. Label
and store in a cool dry place. Use as often as needed.

Flavored Lip Balm (moisterizer and gloss)
Submitted by Stephanie of Nashville, TN
A personalized lip moisturizer and gloss
Ingredients:
1 teaspoon beeswax
A few drops flavor oil
1/4 teaspoon jojoba oil
1 teaspoon shea butter
Instructions:
Melt 1 tsp. beeswax and 1 tsp.shea butter in a double boiler. (This is only to liquify to make it easier
to fully blend all ingredients.) Add 1/4 tsp. jojoba oil and a few drops of your favorite flavor oil to the
mixture. Mix well and pour into the container you want to store your balm in. Allow to harden at
room temperature or in refrigerator.
Healing Lip Gloss

Heals chapped lips & stays glossy
Ingredients:
1/4 tsp meadowfoam oil

1/2 tsp jojoba oil
1/2 tsp coconut oil
1/2 tsp cocoa butter
1 tsp beeswax
1 tsp castor oil
a few drops peppermint EO
Instructions:
Melt all oils together in a double boiler (except peppermint). Stir in peppermint EO & pour into lip
balm containers. Let cool.

Hemp lip Balm
Submitted by Bonnie of Cedar City, UT
Ingredients:
2 oz hazelnut oil
1 oz hemp seed oil
.75 oz beeswax
.5 oz shea butter
Few drops of flavor oil or peppermint essential oil if desired
Instructions:
Heat everything except essential oil to 150. Cool slightly, add essential oil. Pour into tubes or pots.
Hemp Oil Lip Balm

Submitted by Yohana of Voorhees, NJ
Ingredients:
3T coconut oil
1T castor oil
1t beeswax
1T sunflower oil
1T hempseed oil
1T honey
1-2 drops of your favorite essential or fragrance oil
Instructions:
Melt the wax and coconut oil together, add honey, stirring constantly. Add sunflower oil, as mix
thickens add hempseed oil and essential oil. Stir until thick. Store in small containers.
Honey Lip Balm

Ingredients:
2 t olive oil
1/2 t beeswax
1/2 t cocoa butter
1/2 t honey
3 drops orange essential oil
1 vitamin E capsule
Instructions:
Heat the oil-cocoa butter-beeswax mixture in the water bath over medium heat until beeswax is
melted, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and stir in the honey and essential oil. Pinch open
the vitamin E capsule and squeeze the contents into the mixture. Stir well. Pour the mixture into
containers.

Kissable Lip Balm
Submitted by Pam of Crawfordville, FL
Following your basic balm recipe, here are specifics
Ingredients:
2 oz. shea or other vegetable butter

2 oz. beeswax
2 oz. jojoba or hazelnut oil
2 oz. safflower or grapeseed oil
2 t. EO or FO(Nice citrus choices are Sweet Orange/Cinnamon leaf, Tangerine w/dash of sage,
Lime, Lemongrass w/mint)
Instructions:
Put the 4 ounces of oil in 8 oz glass cup, add beeswax & butter & melt in microwave (or in double
boiler). Remove from heat & stir with stainless spoon. Add EO or FO a little at a time. Pour into lip
balm containers.(Also can add Vit. E capsule for extra nourishment.)
Moisturizing Lip Balm

Submitted by Tiffany of Cartersville, GA
Ingredients:
1 1/2 tsp Beeswax

1 1/2 tsp Shea Butter
1/2 tsp Jojoba Oil
1/2 tsp Sweet Almond Oil
3-4 drops Sweet Orange Oil or Peppermint Oil (or flavor oil if you prefer)
10 drops vitamin E 1000 IU
Instructions:
Melt beeswax, shea butter, and oils together in a double boiler. Remove from heat. When mixture
has cooled down a bit, add essential oil and the vitamin E into the mixture. Stir and pour into lip
balm containers. Allow to solidify. This should be hard enough to use in lip balm tubes. If it is too
hard, add a little more jojoba or sweet almond oil. Makes about 5 tubes.

Sherry’s Extra Moisture Lip Balm
Submitted by Sherry of Newtown, PA
Sherry’s Lip Balm Recipe
Ingredients:
.4 oz white beeswax pellets

.4 oz sweet almond oil
.4 oz shea butter
.4 oz cocoa butter
10 drops Viatmin E 1400 IU
1 - 2 tsp. flavor oil
A sliver of a NEW lipstick for color, if you wish or mica colorant of your choice
Instructions:
Melt everything but the flavor oil (you can use the microwave; just be careful it doesn’t get too hot).
Add in flavor oil and lipstick piece or mica. Stir well. This works best in tubes and is a nice,
moisturizing lip balm that feels SO smooth on.

Lotions
All-Over Lotion
Submitted by Rachel of Urbana, IA
A good basic lotion that makes 8 oz. and can be used year-round.
Ingredients:
1 oz Glycerin
1 oz Stearic Acid
1 oz Emulsifying Wax
2 oz Sweet Almond or Jojoba Oil
3 oz distilled water
1/2 t grapefruit seed extract
1/2 t fragrance oil (opt)
Instructions:
Measure out first 5 ingredients and put into a 2 cup glass measuring cup. Microwave 2 1/2 minutes
or until solid ingredients are melted. Blend with stick blender until fully blended. Add preservative
and fragrance oil and blend until incorporated. Pour into an 8 oz container and seal tightly. Shake
periodically until cool and enjoy!
Almond Oil Lotion

Ingredients:
1/8 t borax powder

1/4 cup distilled water
1/2 cup almond oil
1 T grated beeswax
Instructions:
Dissolve borax in the water. Melt beeswax and sweet almond oil in a double boiler stirring
occasionally. Bring this mixture almost to boiling. Remove the mixture from the heat. Slowly add
the borax-water mixture to it. Allow the lotion to cool completely while whisking.

Beeswax Handbutter - Lotion Bar
Submitted by Julie of Carrier Mills, IL
Ingredients:
4 oz. Beeswax
3 oz. Cocoa Butter
1/4 oz. of each of the following: Shea Butter, Avacado oil, Lanolin, orange essential oil, tea tree oil,
jojoba oil
Instructions:
Melt all ingredients together in a double boiler. Spoon into 3 oz molds- I use honeycomb with the
bee on it. Place in freezer until set up. Wrap in plastic wrap, for decoration purpose you can place
in 4 inch clay or plastic plant tray and tie raffia bow around it.
Body & Feet Cream

Submitted by Robyn of West Valley City, UT
Ingredients:
1 tsp. Citric Acid

4 Tbs. Stearic Acid
1/2 Cup Emulsfying Wax
1/2 Cup Oil Blend (Try Kukui nut, Flax seed oil and avocado oils)
4 Tbs. Veg. Glycerin
1 to 1 1/2 cup water
12 drops Grapefruit seed extract
FD & C Dye to color
Fragrance oil to scent
Instructions:
Combine all ingredients except GSE in a heat safe container. Melt in hot water bath, in double
boiler, until water turns milky and all ingredients are melted. Remove from heat, blend with blender
until starts to thicken. Add GSE, color and scent. Blend again to ensure even distribution of scent.
Pour into clean containers.

Camelot’s Suntan Lotion
Submitted by Glenda of Milan, TN
Moisturizing Suntan Lotion
Ingredients:
Coconut Oil 2 oz
Glycerin 4.5 oz
Emulifying Wax 3 oz
Water 38 oz (room temp)
Sesame Oil 12 oz
Cocoa Butter 2.5 oz
Citric Acid 1 tsp
GSE 2 oz
Vitamin E 5 capsules
Instructions:
Melt oils, cocoa butter and wax in double boiler over medium heat. Add citric acid. Remove from
heat and place in large mixing bowl. With stick blender in motion slowly add water until well
blended. Add glycerin and vitamin E. Cool slightly and add GSE. Add fragrance if desired. Put in
containers.

Creme de la Cream
Submitted by Andrea of Worcester, MA
A thick, easily absorbed body cream
Ingredients:
Water Phase:
Distilled Water 12.8 oz
Baking Soda 0.1 oz
Corn Starch 0.05 oz
Oil Phase
Grapeseed Oil 2 oz
Manog Butter 0.15 oz
Shea Butter 0.15 oz
Stearic Acid 0.3 oz
Citric Acid 0.1 oz
Soy Letchin 0.1 oz
E-Wax 0.8 oz
Phenonip(or other appropriate preservative) 0.1 oz
Instructions:
Combine and heat oil phase until fully incorporates. Heat water phase and dissolve baking soda
and cornstarch completely. Cool both phases slightly. While blending (stick blender is best)the oils,
SLOWLY add the water phase. Keep blending. As cream cools, it becomes VERY thick. If using
phenonip, you can add when mixture is still hot. Check with manufacturer for other preservatives.
When COMPLETELY cool, transfer to jars. I scent “as I go” by heating the cream slightly, then
adding scent and/or color. This will depend on your preservative. Also, you can put cream into a zip
bag, add color/scent, close and squish until mixed. Cut corner from bag and “pipe” into
containers.

Easy Body Lotion
Submitted by Elise of Lake Elsinore, CA
Makes about 4 oz.
Ingredients:
3 tbs glycerin
3 tbs rose or zdravetz hydrosol
1 tbs rice bran oil
1 tbs meadowfoam oil
1 tbs jojoba oil
10 drops Grapefruit seed extract
A few drops FD & C Red #33 Lake
Instructions:
Put all ingredients in a sterilized 4 oz. jar. Shake vigorously before each use.
Eczema Soother
Submitted by Anna-maria of Sarasota, FL
Oil Combo for Eczema Sufferers
Ingredients:
4 oz jojoba oil
20 drops evening primrose oil
12 drops lavender essential oil
12 drops roman camomile essential oil
Instructions:
Combine all ingredients. Use as a daily lubricant on the skin. This has worked WONDERS on my
little boy (21 months) who suffers with a bad case of eczema. It has been the only remedy that has
worked for him. It stops him from breaking out with the red, itchy patches and keeps his VERY dry
skin nicely lubricated. His skin will sometimes still get irritated when he comes in contact with an
allergen. As soon as I see it starting to get red and inflamed, I rub on the oil and it stops it from
getting any worse. By the next day, his skin is back to normal.

Light Lotion Spray
Submitted by Melissa of Milan, TN
Ingredients:
1 oz Sweet almond oil

1 oz Apricot Kernel oil
1 oz Grapeseed oil
.6 oz Emulsifying Wax
.3 oz Stearic acid
1/8 tsp citric acid
26 oz distilled water
1 oz Glycerin
4 Vitamin E capsules
Preservative at correct amount
.3 oz Fragrance
Instructions:
In a microwave-safe bowl, heat almond and apricot kernel oils, e-wax and stearic until melted. Stir
in grapeseed oil. In a separate bowl, mix water and citric acid and heat in microwave. Add oil
mixture to water mixture and blend with a stick blender to ensure complete emulsification. Allow to
cool several minutes. Add vitamin E, glycerin and preservative and mix well. Fragrance as desired. I
fragrance mine by the bottle in lieu of a whole batch. You may use any combination of light oils to
make 3 ounces. Aloe vera may be substituted for a portion of the water and added after heating
the water and citric acid.
Peppermint Neroli Lotion

A smooth, nourishing lotion for face and body
Ingredients:
1/4 Cup grapeseed oil

1/4 Cup apricot kernal oil
1/2 Cup distilled water
1 tbsp aloe vera gel
1 tsp beeswax
1/8 tsp borax
1/4 tsp baking soda
Instructions:
Melt oils and waxes together in a double boiler. Mix water, borax, baking soda and aloe vera gel.
Heat in microwave for two min. Slowly drizzle oils into water mixture and use a hand blender until
thick. Stir in 15 drops Neroli oil and 5 drops peppermint.

Rich Creamy Butter Lotion
Submitted by Staci of Cocoa Beach, FL
Thick creamy lotion, can also be used as a hand cream when made w/ less water or more stearic
acid, great for dry, itchy, or sensitive irritated skin, also great for reducing stretch marks when
made w/ EMU Oil
Ingredients:
2.50 oz. Hemp Oil

4.00 oz. Vegetable Glycerin
2.70 oz. Emu Oil
2.30 oz. Sweet Almond Oil
2.50 oz. Shea Butter
2.50 oz. Mango Butter
1.00 oz. Vitamin E 1000 IU
2.50 oz. Calendula Oil
2.00 oz. Stearic Acid (may add less for thinner lotion)
3.50 oz. Emulsifying Wax (way cool product that binds water to oil and keeps it from seperating!)
0.50 oz. Grape Seed Extract (GSE) as a natural preservative
3.50 oz. Rose Water or Floral Water of your choice
32.0 oz. Aloe Vera Gel or distilled water
Great Patchouli Scent Blend:
1.00 oz. Patchouli Essential Oil

0.30 oz. Lavender Essential Oil
0.30 oz. Rosewood Essential Oil
0.30 oz. Tea Tree Oil
2.50 oz. Coconut Fragrance Oil
I chose these essential oils for their specific medicinal purposes that are great for the skin. The
coconut fragrance oil balances the essential oil blend and tones it down yet still giving the
Patchouli the middle note while also toning down the coconut fragrance and leaving it as the base
note.
Instructions:
Heat the oils, butters, and waxes on low until everything has melted, (I use a double boiler so you
can’t burn it or boil it), then cool to about 140 degrees. Heat the aloe water and rose water mixture
to about 140 degrees as well. Put the oils into a large mixing bowl and start mixing on slow while
slowly adding the water mixture until all water is added, then add EO’s & FO’s and GSE and blend
some more at a higher speed, you want to keep blending until mixture is about body temp (around
97 to 98 degrees). Pour into jars or pump lotion bottles and continue to shake periodically until the
mixture becomes creamy and thick, this will prevent any seperation of the oils and water.

Masks
Beauty’s Secret
Submitted by Marc of Oroville, CA
Skin Re-Vitalizing Mask
Ingredients:
1 tsp Rose Clay

1 egg white
1/16th tsp Neem Powder
1/2 tsp oat starch
Rose hydrosol
Instructions:
Mix all of the ingredients except the rose hydrosol. When this is mixed thoroughly, slowly add the
rose hydrosol to the desired consistency. Apply to face and allow to dry for 15 min. Wash face with
mild soap and water. Pat dry. The neem powder is especially good for acne prone skin.
Body Clay
Submitted by Tracy of Montreal, QC
For all skin type, even can be used for facial mask
Ingredients:
Dry Lavender 2tbsp

Dry Rose buds 2tbsp
Water 100ml
Honey 1tbsp
Fresh Sour Cream 1tbsp
Sweet Almond Oil 1tsp
Clay(Fuller or whatever suits better for your skin type) 100g
Orange Essentil Oil 3drops
Instructions:
1. Boil water in a stainless steel pot, put the dry lavender and rose buds in, close the lid, simmer for
10 mins. Cool it and filter the water.
2. Put the honey, sour cream, sweet almond oil into the cooled infusion, blend it well and add the
clay slowly until it’s smooth and pasty.
3. Before use, add 3 drops of Orange (or other) Essential Oil to scent it.
Take a warm bath before using this therapy.

Put the clay over the body, and massage it gently, let it stay for three minutes.
When the body feels warm from the clay, take a cool shower to clean the body.

Herbal Clay and Oat Mask
Submitted by Stephanie of Conway, AR
This gentle, soothing mask is a treat for those who have
Ingredients:
1/4 cup colloidal oatmeal fine

3 Tb china clay
2 Tb lavender flowers
2 Tb chamomile flowers
One or more of the following wetting agents: honey, floral water, herbal tea, water
Instructions:
Powder dry ingredents well. Put a few tablespoons of the mix in a small bowl. Add wetting agent to
make a paste. Apply to face and allow to dry for ten to twenty minutes. Rinse with warm water.
Store remaining mixture in airtight container. Use once or twice a week. For super sensitive skin,
herbs can be left out or lessened.

Melt and Pour
Citrus Blast M&P Shampoo Bar
Submitted by Jenn of Bechtelsville, PA
Citrus Blast M&P Shampoo Bar
Ingredients:
1lb opaque M&P base

1t almond oil
4t shea butter
1 1/2t castor oil
1oz beeswax
1 1/2oz cocoa butter
2-3 drops orange fo/eo
2-3 drops lemon fo/eo
2-3 drops grapefruit fo/eo
colorant (optional)
Instructions:
While soap base is melting, combine oils, beeswax and butters and melt separate from soap base.
Combine soap base and oil/butter mixture and stir constantly until cooled. Add fragrance and
color. Pour into molds and allow to cool. Package as desired
Coffee and Cream Soap

Use to aid in the fight against cellulite
Ingredients:
8 oz. Coconut Opaque M&P Base

2 tsp. Lanolin
2 tsp. Aloe Vera Gel
3 tsp. Coffee Grounds
2 tsp. Heavy Whipping Cream
10 Drops Coffee Fragrance Oil
10 Drops Vanilla Fragrance Oil
Instructions:
Melt the soap base in a double boiler. Add all the other ingredients and stir well. Pour into molds
and let it sit for 3 hours Put molds in freezer for 5 minutes and pop them out.

Cucumber Ivy Swirl Mint Soap
Refreshing and invigorating, wakes you up!
Ingredients:
1 pound opaque soap base

1 tablespoon cucumber fo
1 tablespoon English ivy fo
3-4 drops peppermint eo
light green mica
Instructions:
Melt down the soap base and scent. Pour ½ of your scented base into a glass-measuring cup and
color as desired with the green mica. When your base cools to about 120 degrees, you are ready
to pour. Take the colored base and the white base and begin to pour them on opposite sides of the
mold, making one pass to create an “x” pattern. When you are finished pouring, take a spoon or
pop stick and create a slight swirling motion in the soap. If you swirl it too much you will get a solid
color. Allow to cool and package as desired.
Earth Tones
Submitted by Carrie of Rochester, NY
Has a light earthy smell to it, works wonderfully.
Ingredients:
1 lb. unscented clear glycerine melt & pour base

1 1/2tsp. ground cinnamon, divided
10 drops sweet orange essential oil
5 drops lavender essential oil
1 drop rosemary essential oil
1 tsp. sunflower oil
Instructions:
Combine essential oils and 1/2 tsp. cinnamon in glass mixing bottle, set aside. Cut melt & pour
soap into 1 inch cubes, place into top of double boiler. Heat over low-medium heat until beginning
to melt. Sprinkle cinnamon evenly over soap, stirring gently, being careful to avoid over stirring.
Continue melting until soap is completely melted, remove from heat and immediately add
sunflower oil, and essential oil blend, stirring gently. Pour into prepared molds. Let set for 5-6 hours
or overnight, gently remove soap from molds, cut into slices if necessary, and store in a cool, dry,
dark place for at least 1 week, flipping bars daily to prevent warping. Should make an amber
colored soap with a darker layer where the cinnamon settles, like an amber sunset.

French Citrus Bar
Submitted by Gail of Loxahatchee, FL
Super Cleanser for Oily Skin
Ingredients:
8 oz M&P (clear or opaque)

1 tsp French Green Clay
1/2 tsp Lemon Peel Powder
1/2 tsp Orange Peel Powder
1 tsp Jojoba Oil
5 drops Tea Tree Essential Oil
5 drops Lemon Essential Oil
2 drops Lemongrass Essential Oil
Instructions:
Cut up the Melt and pour soap into small chunks and gently melt in the microwave or in a double-
boiler. Add the clay, citrus powders and the jojoba oil and stir thoroughly. Add essential oils and stir
again. Pour into molds. Makes about 2-3 bars. The clay and citus powders draw off the oils in your
face; the essential oils are antibacterial. If you have only slightly oily skin, you may want to use a
light moisturizer afterwards.
Milk & Honey Butter Bars

Submitted by Shannon of Crab Orchard, WV
Ingredients:
1 lb opaque melt & pour base

1/2 cup whole or goats milk
1 Tbsp honey
20 drops Vitamin E 250IU
1 Tbsp melted beeswax
1 tsp vanilla fragrance oil
1 tsp or your favorite oil
Instructions:
Melt beeswax and MP base over a double boiler. Add the milk, vitamin E, honey, and extra oil and
stir. Remove from heat and cool slightly before adding the vanilla fragrance oil. Pour into molds
and unmold when hard.

Milk and Honey Melt & Pour Soap
Submitted by Ann of Pilot Mountain, NC
A moisturizing and healing soap
Ingredients:
2 Tablespoons Olive Oil

2 Tablespoons Water
2 Tablespoons Milk Powder
2 Tablespoons Honey, natural not powdered
Honey, Spice or Vanilla Fragrance Oil if desired
1/2 cup melted Melt and Pour base
Instructions:
Combine all ingredients except the M&P soap in a small bowl and mix well. The mixture will be
thick. Add mix to melted soap base and stir gently until thoroughly blended. Pour into molds. I do
not add any coloring to this soap since it is for healing; it will be naturally brown due to the honey. I
have used both a white and clear soap base with excellent results.

MP Base Geode
Ingredients:
1- 3" x 5" x 1" slab of violet base

1-3 slabs of coconut opaque base
3 - 5 slabs of coconut clear base
Ultramarines and oxides and earthy toned micas (pick “rock” tones for a natural looking geode or
just pick your six year olds 5 favorite colors)
Oil for dispersing pigments
Instructions:
Hold the slab of violet base in your hand and with a sharp knife, cut criss cross cuts 1/8 of an inch
deep into the 1" width of the slab. When you have covered the surface with cuts, slice down
through the slab slicing off the tiny irregular shaped pieces. Crumble with your hand and chop up
into smaller pieces if necessary. Keep repeating this process until you have about 1 cup of tiny
crystal-like pieces of soap.
Melt some clear base (don’t make it so hot that you can’t touch it) and with your hands firmly pack
the crystals into a ball using some of the clear melted base as “glue” to help hold it together. You
may not need any if the soap is sticky enough. When you have packed a firm ball, start dipping it
into the clear base and use you hands to mold and firm the clear soap around the ball. The soap
will cool quickly and most of it will stick to your hands as you work. Just peel the soap off your
hands and place it back into the pan of melted soap. Remelt if the base cools too much. Keep
dipping and molding. Do this until you have a good solid layer holding the crystals together. Melt
some opaque base and dip the ball into the opaque white base until you have a thin layer of white.
Then color some melted clear base. Start dipping your ball into the colored base until you have a
good solid color. Then do another color and then maybe some more white and then more color
and then more white until your geode starts to approach a good 4-5 inches across. Keep the white
layers thin but make the colored layers about 1/8 -3/8 inch thick. Then color some of your base
with an earthy grayish color to start forming the outer layer. Dip your geode until you have a good
layer of “rock” color. Mix together some “earthy” micas (gold, blue violet, topaz, bronze). Dip your
geode in some melted base and start throwing on some micas and you use your fingers to smooth
the mica into the soft base. Keep working the mica into the outer layer. When you’re satisfied with
the last layer of your geode, put it down and do some major cleaning up! Get some rest and 48
hours later, you will be ready to take a sharp non-serrated knife to your geode. Use one motion to
slice through. It might help to warm the knife slightly over a fire but if you make it too hot, it tends
to melt the various colors all over each other so resist the urge to go this route. You will be amazed
at your geode!

Peppermint Exfoliating Foot Soap
Submitted by Susan of Highland, IN
A bar of soap to deodorize and exfoliate the feet.
Ingredients:
Per bar:
3-4 oz opaque coconut M&P soap
1 tsp kokum butter
2-3 drops peppermint essential oil
1 scant drop red or pink food coloring (optional)
Pumice powder
Instructions:
Melt soap and butter over a double boiler. Add peppermint oil and coloring and stir gently to
incorporate. Pour a tiny amount of soap into the bottom of the mold. Carefully sprinkle a generous
coating of pumice powder onto the bottom of the mold (I like about 1/4 inch thick). Finish filling
the mold the rest of the way.
I like this because you can lather up your feet with the “smooth” side, then use the pumice side to
get the dead skin off! :)
Vanilla Honey Oatmeal

Submitted by Tima of Richmond, VA
Soothing and moisturizing
Ingredients:
2lbs of clear or white melt and pour soap

1/8 to 1/4 cup of Honey
3/4 cup of ground oatmeal
1 tsp of vitamin E
1 tablespoon of Vanilla oil
1 tablespoon of Frankincense and Myrhh oil(Fragrance oil or Essential oil)
Instructions:
Cut the MP into chunks and heat on a double boiler. Add honey and vitamin E. Let your base cool
approx. 5-10 min or until it starts to form a skin on top, stir the skin back into the the base. When
the base starts to thicken slightly add your fragrance and oatmeal. You want your oatmeal to be
suspended in your base. Pour into molds. I use a loaf pan. Let it sit and harden for several hours
and unmold. Slice and let it sit for 24hr and wrap with plastic wrap.

Oil Blends
Oil Blend: Eczema
1 oz. Camelina Oil
2 oz. Flax Seed Oil or Tamanu Oil
1 oz. Calendula Oil
2 oz. Emu Oil
2 oz. Seabuckthorn Oil
Use these oil blends as your basis for body oils, breams, lotions, lip balms, body butters or add to
bath bombs, salt scrubs or even as a soap superfatting blend.
Oil Blend: Hair

4 oz. Monoi de Tahiti Oil or Shea Oil
1 oz. Castor Oil or Tamanu Oil
1 oz. Jojoba Oil
1 oz. Emu Oil or Rice Bran Oil
1 oz. Camelina Oil
Oil Blend: Light

2 oz. Watermelon Seed Oil
8 oz. Fractionated Coconut Oil
2 oz. Apricot Kernel Oil
4 oz. Sunflower Oil

Oil Blend: Light Face
1/2 oz. Rice Bran Oil
1 oz. Jojoba Oil
1 oz. Peach Kernel Oil
1/2 oz. Evening Primrose Oil
Oil Blend: Rich

2 oz. Sesame Oil
6 oz. Avocado Oil
4 oz. Hemp Seed Oil or Tamanu Oil
4 oz. Wheatgerm Oil
Oil Blend: Rich But Penetrating

3 oz. Virgin Coconut Oil
1 oz. Vitamin E Oil
1 oz. Flax Seed Oil

Oil Blend: Rich Butter
2 oz. Shea Butter
2 oz. Mango Butter
1 oz. Hempseed Oil
1 oz. Tamanu Oil
2 oz. Carrot Oil
Oil Blend: Soothing (for inflamed, irritated skin)

1 oz. Aloe Vera Oil
2 oz. Calendula Oil
3 oz. Emu Oil
1 oz. Kukui Nut Oil
Oil Blend: Sun Care

1 oz. Emu Oil
1 oz. Jojoba Oil
3 oz. Rice Bran Oil
4 oz. Virgin Coconut Oil

Ointments
Calendula & Plantain Ointment
Submitted by Jennifer of Hersey, MI
A good all around ointment to soothe irritated skin..
Ingredients:
1/2 C. Dried Calendula Petals

1/2 C. Dried Plantain Leaves
Olive Oil to cover
About 1 Tbl. Beeswax
Instructions:
Place herbs in glass bowl over simmering water (or double broiler), cover with oil. Warm the oil
stirring often for about 2 - 3 hours. Strain. Place herbs back in bowl over steaming water and add
enough beeswax to create the desired consistancy. Pour into lip balm jars.
Darlene’s Ointment #1
Submitted by Darlene of Penna. Furnace, PA
Easy to make basic ointment. I made this is a small batch as an experiment and loved it. It could
be made in larger quantities to suite your needs.
Ingredients:
3/4 Tbsp. beeswax pellets

1 1/2 Tbsp. cocoa butter, grated (as noted below)
1/2 Tbsp. coconut oil
1 Tbsp. almond oil
1/2 Tbsp. jojoba oil
3 drops patchouli e.o.
3 drops lavender e.o.
Note: I purchase my cocoa butter in chunks and use the grater blade in a food processor to grate
it. I store the grated cocoa butter in a tightly sealed glass jar. Grating the cocoa butter ahead of
time makes it very easy to use when needed.
Instructions:
While waiting for the water to heat in the double boiler, partially submerge the sealed bottle of
coconut oil in hot water in the sink to liquify it. When the double boiler is ready, melt the beeswax
pellets and grated cocoa butter. Remove from heat and add all of the oils. I use a clean wooden
chopstick to stir everything together. Let cool slightly. Stir in the essential oils. Pour into a clean
glass jar and seal tightly. Label the jar with the ingredients and date it was made. ENJOY!

PMS Oil Blend
Submitted by Maryam of Lexington, VA
For use when cramping during PMS
Ingredients:
10 drops geranium
15 drops lavender
5 drops german chamomile
3 drops cypress
4 oz almond oil
Instructions:
Mix well and store in a bottle or jar. Apply to abdomen as needed.

Perfumes & Colognes
Aftershave
Ingredients:
1 cup vodka
2 tsp dried yarrow
1 tbsp. dried lavender
1 tbsp sage leaves
1 dried bay leaf
1 tsp. whole cloves
Instructions:
Mix everything together in a glass jar and store in a dark sry spot for 2-3 weeks. Strain and rebottle.
Splash on!
Alluring
Submitted by Kathy of Lansford, PA
All-Natural Alluring Perfume Blend
Ingredients:
Essential Oils:
7 drops Sandalwood
7 drops Patchouli
3 drops Italian Neroli
1 drop Jasmine Absolute (India)
1 drop Jasmine Absolute (Egypt)
Base:
10ml Everclear or high-proof (100+) vodka
Instructions:
To a 1/2 ounce (15ml) amber glass bottle, add Essential Oils one at a time. Roll the bottle between
your palms gently and allow to settle for a day or two. Add alcohol (vodka), and allow blend to age
for at least 2-3 weeks before use. Shake periodically to disperse oils. This blend can be further
diluted in distilled water and used as a spritzer. Exquisite aroma.

Citrus Zinger Cologne
Submitted by Donna of Woodridge, IL
Unisex refreshing citrus perfume
Ingredients:
1 oz of vodka (100 proof)

10 drops bergamot essential oil
4 drops lime essential oil
4 drops sweet orange essential oil
2 drops rosewood essential oil
Instructions:
Pour vodka into sterile glass bottle. Add bergamot, sweet orange, lime and rosewood oil. Shake
well, set aside for one week. Can apply to skin like a splash, or put in an atomizer.
Denise’s Night Out

Submitted by Denise of Clinton, KY
Earthy, musky, with a hint of floral
Ingredients:
30 drops of oil of jasmine (absolute diluted in jojoba oil)

12 drops of essential oil of ylang-ylang
12 drops of essential oil of patchouli
1/2 oz vodka
Instructions:
Mix all oils together. Add vodka. Shake to blend. Let mellow a few days. Shake to use.
Hydrating Perfumed Body Spray

Submitted by Nancy of Worthington, IN
Scented, skin softening body spray.
Ingredients:
1/2 oz glycerine
10 drops of vitamin E
3 oz. hydrosol of your choice
1/2 teaspoon of essential or fragrance oil
Instructions:
Combine all in a 4 oz plastic spray bottle. Shake well, spray over skin to retain moisture and add
fragrance!!

Lilac Solid Perfume
Submitted by Elena of Las Cruces, NM
Heavenly scent of lilac in a solid form with optional decorative flowers
Ingredients:
1 part fractionated coconut oil

1 part bees wax or hydrogenated jojoba MP 56
Lilac fragrance oil (it is a good idea to have .5 oz for each ounce of fractionated coconut oil
Individual lilac flowers cut from the bunch—if possible go for organic, you don’t want pesticides!
(optional)
Instructions:
Put bees wax or hydrogenated jojoba and coconut oil into a non-reactive pan and heat on low until
wax melts into the oil. Test the consistency by sticking a cold spoon into the mix. If it is too hard or
soft when it cools on the spoon, add wax or oil. Stir and let cool until you can touch the mixture,
but before it starts to harden. Stir in fragrance oil to desired strength. Stir again and pour into
containers. If desired take lilac flowers and place them into the mix before it hardens over, they
look the best when they are barely covered. I recommend using a toothpick or tweezers to place
them. Another good way is to make a batch and fill the containers 2/3 full, let it harden, put the
flowers on top and spoon another batch on top of them. This recipe can be used with other scents
also.
Men’s After Shave Gel

Ingredients:
1/2 Cup pure Aloe Vera Gel

1 Tablespoon Water
2 teaspoons 100 proof Vodka
2 teaspoons Witch Hazel
1 bayleaf or 10 drops of essential or fragrance oil.
Instructions:
Allow bayleaf or oil to remain in gel and age for approx. 2-3 days. Then add remaining ingredients
and mix well. Put into squeeze bottle or pump bottle for easier dispensing.

Mood Scents: Happiness
Submitted by Candice of Osprey, FL
Happiness
Ingredients:
3 drops bergamot essential oil

2 drops jasmine absolute
2 drops rosemary oil (i use infused oil)
1 drop gardenia fragrance oil
Instructions:
Mix with your favorite base oil (I use jojoba oil) about 1 to 2 oz. Shake well before each use. Store in
glass bottle.
Mood Scents: Serenity

Submitted by Candice of Osprey, FL
Serenity
Ingredients:
2 drops sandlewood essential oil

1 drop clove essential oil
3 drops mountain rain fragrance oil (or something of the like)
1 drop your favorite flower fragrance oil (I use gardenia)
Instructions:
Mix with your favorite base oil (I use jojoba), and make sure to shake before each use. Store in
glass bottles.

Potpourri
Basic Potpourri
Instructions:
Choosing the botanicals:
Decide on a color scheme. It can be very natural and earthy looking or very brilliant. It can be
made with 2 colors or many colors. It can be simple white and gold. Or, if you have a fragrance in
mind, you may want to pick colors that seem to go with the fragrance. For example, vanilla â•“ you
immediately think of whites and natural colors not bright orange. Or Holiday Spice, reminds you of
warm reds, oranges, greens and browns perhaps but not navy blue.
Once you’ve decided on your colors, you want to decide which color or colors will be most
predominant. Pick a botanical or a few botanicals in that color. It helps to pick a variety of sizes or
textures. For instance, if you want the base color to be white, you can choose white globe
amaranths and white angel wings which are different in size, shape and texture.
Then start choosing botanicals and spices and dried fruits from your other color groups.
Remember to pick various shapes and sizes. For instance, if you are choosing browns, you will
want to choose from a variety of cones, cinnamon sticks, nuts, pods etc. You may wish to add a
highlight to your mix such as gold, or white or black or any other contrasting color. Choose a
botanical that is bold and large like pomegranates or orange slices or gold amra nuts. You will only
need a few pieces of this item.
Choose an appropriate fragrance (if you started with a fragrance in mind you are ready to start
mixing).
Putting it together:
Place your base color botanical in a large mixing container or bucket. If you are using more than
one botanical for the predominant color, combine them one at a time, cup by cup, until you are
pleased with the overall texture. Make a note of how many cups of each botanical you used so you
can adjust the proportions as you go and be able to reproduce the mix again later.
Start adding the botanicals from your other color groups one at a time making sure to record how
many cups of each you used. Do not add the highlight botanical pieces yet ( you will want to add
these after you have packaged your potpourri so that they stand out). If it seems like you base color
got overwhelmed by the colors, go back and add more of the base color botanicals to bring it back
in balance. Once you like the proportions of your botanicals you are ready to add the fragrance.
The easiest easy way to add scent to the botanicals is to use a spray bottle and to mix the
botanicals as you spray them with essential or fragrance oil.
Allow the oil to soak in. Mix well without crushing the botanicals making sure that there are no
pools of oil anywhere. Now you are ready to package your potpourri.
Package your potpourri in cello bags, clear acetate boxes, glass apothecary jars or anything else
that will show off the blend. Cello bags are a nice inexpensive way to package potpourri. A wide
ribbon in one of your colors can be used to tie off the bag. Cardboard boxes with clear acetate

covers are nice too and can be found at most packaging supplies. Ribbons or natural raffia ties are
a nice touch. Before sealing the package add the highlight pieces one by one so they stand out
where they can be seen against the packaging.
Citrus Potpourri
Submitted by Kimberly of Malaga, NJ
Ingredients:
3 Limes
3 Lemons
2 Oranges or Tangerines
Orange,lemon,lime or patchouli fragrance oil
Orange Cedarchips, Albezzia leaves, Birch cones, Lily Petals, Orange & Light Green Star Flowers,
Natural Angel Wings and any other botanical you like
Instructions:
1. Slice all the fruit into thin slices. 2. To dry the fruit out, you can either use a food dehydrator or
place them on a cookie sheet lined with wax paper and place it in the oven on very very low heat.
I’ve found that the dehydrator works the best. You can place the fruit in there and just let it go,
without tying up your oven.(food dehydrators can be bought at your local wal-mart. I got mine for
$20) 3. Dry it out until it is a light brown color, and has almost no smell to it. (If using a food
dehydrator, this will take a few days. Times vary for ovens) 4. Place all the dried fruit and the
botanicals into 2 large sandwich plastic bags. Add about 5-10 drops of your prefered fragrance. 5.
Close the bags with a twist tie, and put it in a dark area for 2 weeks. Remember to shake the bag
up every couple of days. 6.After the two weeks is up, open the bag. If you want a stronger smell,
and some more fragrance oil and repeat the last step
Fresh Pear
Submitted by Michele of Jenison, MI
Ingredients:
1/4 C. Oakmoss
1/2 C. Ginger Slices
1/4 C. Sunflower Petals
5 Mango Pods
1/2 C. White Angel Wings
1/4 C. Rose Petals
1/4 C. Albezzia Leaves
1/4 C Starflower Light Green
2 tsp. Sun Ripened Pear FO
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer all ingredients with Mango Pods and Oakmoss on top. Add FO to oakmoss and
Arti Pods. Allow to sit a minute and then toss together. Let rest 2 weeks in dark spot. Check scent.
Add more FO if desired. Allow to sit another 2 weeks. Package.

Heather Potpourri
2-1/2 C. Dusty Lavender & Rose
Ingredients:
3/4 C. Mauve Orchids

3/4 C. Oakmoss in bite-size pieces
1/4 C. Purple Angel Wings
1/4 C. Purple Larkspur
1/2 C. White Milo Berries
2 tsp. Heather Fragrance Oil
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer Orchids, Milo Berries, and then Oak Moss on top. Add FO to oakmoss and allow
it to sit a minute. Toss together, cap the jar and let sit, in the dark, for two weeks. Open the jar. Re-
scent if necessary (if you prefer a stronger scent), and allow to sit another week. Add the Angel
Wings and larkspur. Toss all together and let sit another week. Package.
Mardi Gras
2-1/2 C. Fresh Multi Color
Ingredients:
1/4 C. ea.:
Red Milo Berries
Rhododendron Leaves
Purple Angel Wings
Red Velvet Flowers
Sunflower Petals
Bleached Polbosa
Orange Peel Ribbons
Pink Angel Wings
Gold Curly Pods
Burgundy Hibiscus Flowers
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer all ingredients BUT angel wings, placing polbosa on top. Add FO, let sit a minute,
toss all together. Cap jar and let rest 2 weeks in a dark place. Check scent. Add more FO to
polbosa if desired. Let sit 2 more weeks. Package.

Nostalgia Potpourri
2-1/2 C. Old Fashioned Christmas
Ingredients:
1/4 C. Cranberry Milo Berries

1/4 C. Red Rose Petals
1/4 C. Red Velvet Flower
1/4 C. Green Kernifern
1/8 C. Rhododendron or Eucalyptus Leaves
1/2 C. Oakmoss
1/2 C. Gold Curly Pods
3/4 tsp. Cranberry FO
3/4 tsp. Apple FO
1/2 tsp. Cinnamon FO
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer all ingredients, except angel wings and Larkspur, with oakmoss on top. Add FO
blend to oakmoss and let sit a minute. Toss all, cap jar, and let rest in dark place for two weeks.
Check scent. Add more FO to oakmoss if desired and toss. Let rest another 2 weeks, adding angel
wings and larkspur when FO has been absorbed by other ingredients. Package.
Patchouli Potpourri
2 C. Woody Blend
Ingredients:
3-5 Carob Bean Pods

1/2 C. Oakmoss
1/4 C. Kernifern
1/2 C. Lily Petals
1/4 C. Bay Leaves
1/2 C. Sponge Mushroom
2 tsp. Patchouli FO
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer all ingredients with oakmoss and mushroom on top. Add FO to oakmoss and
mushroom and let sit a minute. Toss everything together, cap the jar, and let rest 2 weeks in a dark
place. Check scent. If more is desired, add to oakmoss and mushroom. Toss, and store another 2
weeks in the dark. Package.

Plumerian Delight Potpourri
2-1/2 C. Pink & Pretty
Ingredients:
1/4 C. Mauve Orchids or Violet Babu cut

1/2 C. Oakmoss
1/4 C. Hibiscus Flowers or Rosehips
1/4 C. Pink Angel Wings
1/4 C. White Milo Berries
1/4 C. Rose Petals
1/2 C. Pink Rose Buds
2 tsp. Plumeria FO
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer all ingredients with oakmoss on top. Add FO and let sit a minute. toss everything,
cap jar, and let sit a couple weeks in dark place. Check scent. Add more FO to oakmoss if desired.
Let sit another 2 weeks. Package.
Romance
2-1/2 C. Red and Romantics
Ingredients:
1/4 C. Eucalyptus Leaves

1/4 C. Hibiscus Flowers
1/4 C. Pink Angel Wings
1/2 C. Rose Buttons
1/2 C. Oak Moss
1/4 C. Rose Petals
1/4 C. White or Natural Milo Berries
2 tsp. Romance FO
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer Leaves, Hibiscus Flowers, Rose Petals, Buds, Milo Berries, and Oak Moss on top.
Add FO to oakmoss and allow to sit a minute. Toss together, cap jar, and let rest in the dark for two
weeks. Check scent and add FO if stronger scent is desired. Let sit another week. When scent is
satisfactory, add Pink and Purple Angel Wings, and Purple Larkspur. Toss and let sit another week.
Package.

Sunflower
2-1/2 C. of Sunshine
Ingredients:
1/4 C. Oakmoss
1/2 C. Bleached Polbosa
1/2 C. Yellow Sunflower Petals
1/8 C. Bay Leaves
1/4 C. Orange Peel Ribbons
1/4 C. Black Eyed Susans
1/2 C. Gold Curly Pods
1/8 C. Rose Leaves
Instructions:
In glass jar, layer all ingredients, oakmoss on top. Add FO to oakmoss and let sit a minute. Toss all
together, cap jar, and let rest in dark place for 2 weeks. Check scent. Add more FO to oakmoss if
desired, and let sit another 2 weeks. Package.
Vanilla Bay
2 C. Woody Blend
Ingredients:
1/8 C. Mini Pine Cones

1/2 C. Oakmoss
1/4 C. Curly Pods
1/4 C. Sponge Mushroom
1/2 C. Polbosa Bleached
1/8 c. Bay Leaves
3-5 Carob Bean Pods
1/4 C. Orange Peel Ribbons
1 tsp. Vanilla FO
1 tsp. Bay Rum FO
Instructions:
In glass jar,layer all ingredients with oakmoss, pine cones, and mushrooms on top. Add FO to top
ingredients and let sit a minute. Toss all, cap jar, and let sit 2 weeks in the dark. Check scent. If
stronger scent desired, add more to mushrooms, oakmoss, and pinecones. Let sit another 2
weeks. Package.

Scrubs
Almond-Oatmeal Body Scrub
Ingredients:
2 to 3 aloe vera leaves

2 Tbs. honey
2 drops geranium essential oil
2 drops palmarosa essential oil
1 cup ground almonds
1 cup colloidal oatmeal
Instructions:
You will need 2 ceramic or glass bowls, a stainless steel spoon, and a sterilized 8-oz. jar. 1) Cut the
aloe leaves in half lengthwise and scoop out the clear gel into a bowl. Mix in the honey and
essential oils. 2) Place the almonds and oatmeal into the second bowl. Stir in the liquid, adding a
little distilled water as needed to make a thick paste. 3) Makes enough for two applications. Store
in the refigerator.
Apricot Kernel Face and Body Scrub

Submitted by Annette of Eugene, OR
Apricot Kernel Face and Body Scrub
Ingredients:
2 oz citrus blend or orange blossom floral water

1.5 oz ground apricot kernel
1 oz melt and pour glycerine soap
1 oz aloe vera gel
1 oz rice bran oil (or other light weight oil suitable for use on the face)
Orange and Sandalwood Essential oils
Instructions:
1) In a double boiler melt the soap. 2) Once thoroughly melted, add the aloe vera gel and safflower
oil. 3) Remove from heat and stir in the floral water, a dropper of sandalwood oil and two droppers
of orange essential oil. 4) Mix thoroughly and then stir in the ground apricot kernel. 5) Stiring
frequently, allow the mixture to cool. Add more essential oil and floral water until the desired scent
and consistency is achieved. Typically the scrub is slightly more thin than creamy peanut butter. 6)
Scrape the scrub into glass containers and seal for a day or two. The ingredients will blend more
thoroughly and fragrance will stablilize into a nutty, woody and vanilla scent. 7) Instructions for use:
place a small dab in the palm of your hand, add water and rub into a lathery paste. Massage the
lather onto face or other areas and rinse with warm water. The gentle glycerine soap cleanses, the
aloe heals, safflower oil moisturizes and apricot kernel exfoliates, leaving the skin restored after
each use.

Body Scrub
Submitted by Minh of Albany, CA
Use this in the tub or shower to rub off dry skin
Ingredients:
1/2 teaspoon beeswax

1 teaspoon castor oil
1/2 teaspoon apricot kernel oil
1 tablespoon sea salt
1 tablespoon almond meal
1 1/2 tablespoon shampoo base
Instructions:
First melt the beeswax, castor oil, and apricot kernel oil together. Mix well. Remove from heat. Add
sea salt and ground almonds. Finally, stir in the baby shampoo and there you have it.
Body Scrub Bliss

Submitted by Jenna of Troy, MO
Give the gift of flake-free skin with this yummy scrub.
Ingredients:
2 cups colloidal oatmeal coarse

1/2 cup honey
1/2 cup chopped almonds
1/4 cup chopped dried orange rinds
1/2 cup peach kernel oil
1/4 cup hazelnut oil
2 Tbsp vitamin E 1000 IU oil
8 drops geranium essential oil
4 drops lime essential oil
Instructions:
Mix together all ingredients and pour into a glass jar or container. Stone in a cool, dry place. This
mixture’s messy, so apply to damp skin while in the shower.

Body/Facial Scrub
Submitted by Hope of Ventura, CA
Made with everyday ingredients...it can be easily modified to suit your skin type
Ingredients:
1/4 C rolled oats

1/4 C powdered milk (buttermilk or goats milk works great)
1 Tbsp table or sea salt
Extras added to above:
1Tbsp cornmeal (for extra exfoliation)
1Tbsp rose petal powder
1tsp neem powder (for problem skin)
Instructions:
Put all ingredients in food processor and process until fine. Add fragrance/essential oils drop by
drop while processing. To Use: place 1 - 2 Tbsp of mixture in palm and wet (water/hydrosol/floral
water) until paste-like. Gently, massage into skin and rinse well. Note: I use this on my skin daily
and modify as needed. Other additives could be: powdered lemon or orange peel, powdered
lavender buds, chamomile, calendula etc.
Brown Sugar Scrub

Submitted by Brenda of Chatom, AL
Ingredients:
1 cup ‘sugar in the raw’

2 tlbs honey
2 tlbs rose hydrosol
2 tlbs fractionated coconut oil
1/4 cup epsom salts
Fragrance oil of choice to ‘taste’
Instructions:
Mix all together. Give it a stir each time you use it. Keeps well.

Cleansing Aromatic Salt Glow
Submitted by Kymberli Gayle of Manchester, NH
Clears the skin of dead cells and toxins while soaking up minerals and leaving a healthy glow.
Ingredients:
1/4 cup sea salt

1/4 cup epsom salts
1/4 cup skin oil (almond and apricot work well)
1 T baking soda
1 T borax
12 drops essential oil ( try 8 drops of geranium and 4 drops of lavender)
Instructions:
In a canning jar(wide mouth) mix salts well, then add baking soda and borax and mix again. Add
essential oils to the carrier oil before mixing with salts mixture. Add oils to salts and mix and store.
Before bathing or showering, use ample amount and rub viggorously in circular motion. Set into a
nice herb bath and soak for 20 minutes, or rinse off in the shower. Either way it will leave your skin
clean and soft and give you a subtle fragrence that will enhance your mood. Enjoy
Diane’s Body Polish

Submitted by Diane of East Islip, NY
A salt scrub that’s EASY to make and use!
Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups dead sea salt fine

1 oz honey glycerin soap, melted
1 oz goats milk glycerin soap melted
1/2 cup liquid castille soap
3/4 cup favroite oil blend or sunflower oil
1-2 tsps. fragrance oil
1/2 tsp. Mica
Instructions:
Heat melted glycerin soap and liquid soap until warmed and stir in the mica until well blended. Add
oil and fragrance oil and blend thoroughly until emulsified. Add salt and stir well to mix completely.
That’s it! I was VERY frustrated by salt scrubs/salt glow recipes that dripped all over and were an
oily mess. This type of salt scrub firms up enough to scoop out what’s needed and it doesn’t drip
all over the place! And best of all it leaves the skin so soft and clean! Enjoy! Diane :-) South Shore
Soapworks

Fruit n Honey Oatmeal Body Scrub
1/4 cup mashed ripe mango
1 mashed kiwi
1/2 cup colloidal oatmealfine or coarse
1/4 cup aritha powder
2 tablespoons rose petal powder, orange peel powder or lemon peel powder
1 tablespoon goats milk powder
1 teaspoon honey
Heavy Cream as needed
Mix all ingredients together using enough heavy cream to make a thick paste. Massage into the
skin using a circular motion and then rinse with warm water.
Happy Skin Scrub

This scrub is good for acne, pimples, and blemishes
Ingredients:
1/2 cup oats

1/2 cup rice (brown)
1/4 cup comfrey (dried)
1/4 cup oregano (dried)
1/8 cup anise seed
1/2 cup calendula
1 1/2 cups clay
1/4 cup myrrh
1 drop tea tree essential oil
1 drop lavender essential oil
Instructions:
Grind and sift all ingredients except oils a few times until powdery, then add oils and stir well. Store
in a jar. To use- add a small amount of water added to a tsp or so of scrub!

Lavender Rose Sugar Scrub
Ingredients:
1 cup sugar or brown sugar

1/4 cup almond oil (or other oil of choice)
1/2 tsp. vitamin E
6-8 drops rose fo
4-6 drops lavender e.o.
Instructions:
Combine brown sugar and oil until it reaches a paste like consistency. Than add vitamin e and
fragrance, package as desired.
Mint Salt Scrub

Moisturizing Scrub that Doubles as a soap
Ingredients:
1/2 oz glycerin soap base

1/8 cup liquid castille soap
1/8 cup sunflower, safflower, or other light oil
1 tbsp jojoba oil
3/8 cup epsom salts (or other coarse salt)
1 tsp aloe gel (optional)
a few drops peppermint EO
a few drops tea tree EO (less than the mint)
blue or green mica powder for color (optional)
Instructions:
Melt glycerin soap base in a double boiler. Add liquid soap & oils. Remove from heat. Stir in salt,
essential oils, aloe, and color (mix powder with a little oil before you mix it in). By this time, the
mixture should be thick and goupy but still warm. Plop into a glass or plastic container and let cool
(or you can use immediately as long as it’s thick to your liking).

Oatmeal Body Scrub
Exfoliate dead skin cells and give the skin a smooth texture
Ingredients:
1 handful brown lentils

1 handful coarse rolled oats
1/2 tsp. carrot oil
1/2 tsp. jojoba oil
water
Instructions:
1)In a blender, reduce the lentils to a coarse powder. Add the rolled oats and process again to
make powder; then add the oils and process again. Blend in water by the teaspoonful until the
mixture becomes a thick paste. 2) Spoon the miture into a bowl. Massage the scrub all over the
body before a shower or bath, paying paticular attention to dry areas. Makes enough for one
application.
Sugar & Spice Body Polish

1 cup sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon powder
4 T orange peel powder
1/4 cup sunflower oil
1/4 cup peach kernel oil
1/8 cup meadowfoam seed oil or jojoba
1 t T50
1/4 cup rice bran oil
1/8 cup wheatgerm oil
1/2 - 1 tsp orange and cinnamon Fragrance oil or apple spice Fragrance oil or any other spice
scent FO of your choice.
Mix the dry ingredients together. Mix the oils and the fragrance oil together. Combine the oils and
dry ingredients and package in a suitable jar type container. To use, scoop out and massage into
the skin.

Summer Salt Scrub
Submitted by Jo Ann of Silver Spring, MD
A refreshing salt scrub for summer!
Ingredients:
(* All ingredients are approximate, use more or less to suit)
2 cups Sea Salt

1/2 cup Corn Meal
1/2 cup light oil
1 TSP Soapnut or liquid soap (opt)
EO or FO (for summer I use citrus scents like lemon, orange, grapefruit)
Powdered colorant (opt)
Instructions:
(*note: mix thoroughly each time an ingredient is added)
Pour & mix salt and corn meal in a large bowl. Mix in colorant & soapnut if using. For summer I
use yellow, coral, or other “sunshiney” colors. I also add in a teeny bit of cosmetic grade glitter.
Add EO or FO’s and let sit overnight with a paper towel covering it to “fix” the scent.
Next, pour and mix the oil and liquid soap.
I prefer light oils like grapeseed or almond, especially for the summer mix. For drier skin in the
winter I use a heavier oil. The consistancy should be like damp sand.
Scoop into a plastic container (glass is too risky as this should be in the shower).
To use, scoop out a couple of fingerfulls and rub along the body BEFORE washing. Actually, with
the soap already in it (you can omit if you like) additional washing may not be necessary, but I
would avoid the face and other sensitive areas. DEFINITELY avoid any cuts or abrasions as the salt
would sting!

Miscellaneous
5-Alive Air Freshner
Submitted by Sofi of Montreal, QC
5-Alive Type EO Blend Air Freshner
Ingredients:
1 tsp of vodka (the stronger the better)

(almost) 2oz distilled water
12 drops Sweet Orange EO
12 drops Grapefruit EO
11 drops Tangerine EO
7 drops Mandarin EO
4 drops Bergamot EO
2 drops Lemon EO
2 drops Lime EO
2 drops May Chang EO (Litsea Cubeba)
Instructions:
Pour vodka into sterile glass cobalt/amber bottle (60ml/2oz.). Add essential oils. Shake well, add
distilled water, cap with an atomiser. Shake well before each use.
* A 2oz bottle is good for about 500 sprays.
** If you double the recipe to make 4oz, add 1 drop each of lemongrass and ginger EO...
mmmmmmm
*** Do not spray directly over furniture or fabrics. Keep away from flame. Do not spray near drinks,
food or eyes. Keep away from children.
Air Freshner Gel

Ingredients:
Air Freshener Gel Base

Candle Dye
Candle Fragrance Oil
Instructions:
Air freshener gels are easy to make if you use our gel base. You simply start by melting the gel base
in a double boiler being careful not to overheat it. It takes a while so be patient. Don’t stir too much
because it will make air bubbles. Once your base is liquid, add candle dyes drop by drop, stirring to
get a uniform color. Once you are satisfied with the color, add your fragrance oil (1/2 - 1 oz per 8 oz
gel base). Be careful to choose your colors and fragrance oils carefully because if your fragrance oil
is yellow or orange in color, it will affect the color of your gel making it difficult to get colors like
purple or blue. Quickly pour your gel into glass jars or votive containers. Let them set up.

Anointing Oil
Submitted by Ray of El Paso, TX
Used for anointing purposes
Ingredients:
17 drops Maja fragrance oil

3-4 drops sandalwood fragrance oil
2 -3 drops woodspice fragrance oil
1 oz fractionated coconut oil to dilute.
Instructions:
Combine and use to anoint.
Body Powder
Ingredients:
1/3 cup cornstarch

1/3 cup arrowroot powder
1/3 cup oatmeal fine
Mica
Essential Oil
Instructions:
Mix the dry ingredients and add the essential oil drop by drop mixing very well. Add 1/4 tsp of mica
to color.
Botanical Oil Bottle

Instructions:
Fill a glass bottle with dried potpourri and fill to the top
with liquid paraffin. Seal the cork into place with sealing
wax and package the bottle in a basket with a wick
stopper. Give instructions to remove the cork and place
the wick stopper into the jar. Once the wick has
absorbed some paraffin, the lamp is ready to light.

Celestial Dreams Pillow
Submitted by Celeste Murray
A small pillow filled with wonderful scents to help enhance your sleep
Ingredients:
1 tbsp Frankincense
1 tbsp Sandalwood
2 tbsp Rose petals
1 tbsp Orris root powder or other fixative of choice
1-2 drops Sandalwood essential oil
1-2 drops Rose essential oil
Instructions:
Sew a natural fiber pouch, fill with mixture, and sew shut. Place between pillow and case for
heavenly dreams.
Cool Foot Powder

Submitted by Eric of Yakima, WA
A minty scented soothing foot powder
Ingredients:
<1 tsp finely ground peppermint> <1 tsp finely ground arnica flowers> <1/4 cup cornstarch>
<3/4 cup baking soda> <1 tsp white clay> <25-30 drops peppermint and spearmint essential
oils>
Instructions:
Mix all ingredients together in a bowl. Shake before use. Store in cool, dark location. Shelf life up to
1 year

Crystal Gel Air Fresheners
These are great Non-molding air fresheners. Use an EO for best scent throw
Ingredients:
1 tsp Agrosoak Polymer crystals(Soil Moist)

3 TBSP vodka
4 oz Distilled Water
EO or FO
Liquid Coloring(if desired)
8oz ‘Jelly’ Jar
Instructions:
Add vodka, EO and COloring to jar. Mix WELL. Add polymer crystals. Stir. Add water (Jar should be
about 1/2 full) Wait. Crystals will expand to fill jar. Use an EO witha strong scent (Lavender,
Peppermint, Lemongrass) for the best scent throw. Liquid Potpourri oil (concentrated) can be used
in place of color, scent, vodka and water.
Flea Powder
For use on pets, beds, or carpets
Ingredients:
2 cups baking soda

1 cup pennyroyal (dried)
1 cup lavender (dried)
1 cup rosemary (dried)
5 drops citronella EO
5 drops pennyroyal EO
10 drops lemon EO
5 drops rosemary EO
10 drops lavender EO
Instructions:
Blend herbs until they form a fine powder and then blend with baking soda. Add eo’s and mix well.
Store in a powder sifter. Sprinkle a small amount onto your carpets or put a small amount on your
animal bed. Let sit and then vacuum.
Fragrance Spray
Instructions:
Add a few drops of your favourite essential oil blend or fragrance oil to 1 oz of Everclear or high
proof vodka. Stir and add 2-3 oz of distilled water. Transfer to a glass sprayer bottle.

Gel Air Fresheners
Submitted by Brenda of Warrenton, MO
Ingredients:
1 packet knox gelatin

3/4 c. water
1/4 c.vodka
1-2 TBS.fragrance oil
food coloring if disired
Instructions:
Dissolve the gelatin in boiling water. Allow to cool to room temp. then add vodka, coloring, and
scent. Pour in a decorative jar and refrigerate until set.
Glitter Gel for the Body

Submitted by Clementine of Boston, MA
Ingredients:
1/4 cup aloe moist

1 teaspoon glycerin
1/4 teaspoon mica or glitter
5 drops fragrance oil
Pinch of mica for color
Instructions:
Mix aloe and glycerin in a small bowl. Stir in glitter, fragrance and mica.
Making a Tea
Instructions:
Pouring 2 cups of boiling water over 1 oz of dried herb (double the amount if using fresh) and allow
it to sit for 2-4 minutes or 5-10 minutes for barks, roots, and other hard plant material.
Teas can be used in the bath, as foot soaks, hair rinses, wetting agents for facials, skin wash for
wounds or irritated skin, or of course for taking internally. Teas can also replace water in skin care
formulations however care must be taken to preserve your finished product properly.

Making a Tincture
Instructions:
Place 6 - 8 oz of dried herbs in a large glass jar. Pour about 10 oz of vodka over the herbs and then
add about 20 oz of water. Mix and then let it sit in a dark cool place. Shake the bottle every so often
for 2 weeks. After 2 weeks, strain the liquid through a fine cheesecloth into a dark amber glass
bottle. Tinctures can be used to make balms, creams, lotions, salves, toners, etc. To make a
calendula, lavender, chamomile or other herbal cream, replace the water with 1 part water and 1
part tincture.
To make a vinegar tincture, follow the above directions but replace the vodka with vinegar.
Making an Infused Oil

Instructions:
Place 4 oz of dried herbs in a pan and cover with the desired vegetable oil (olive, sunflower,
grapeseed and safflower work well). Simmer the oil for 2 hours over steam or in a double boiler.
Remove the oil from the heat and strain the oil through a fine cheesecloth. Place another 4 oz of
dried herb in the pan and cover with the strained oil (add a little bit more if necessary to cover the
herbs). Simmer the oil for another 2 hours over steam. Strain the oil again and add about 5% T 50
when cooled. Store in an amber glass bottle. Use this infused oil in creams, lotions, balms, salves,
massage blends, bath oils, lip balm, soap etc. Infused oils of calendula, chamomile, comfrey root,
marshmallow root, lavender, St. John’s Wort and nettle are especially useful for skin care
formulations for dry skin conditions.
Melon Blossom Foot Soak

2 cups Dead Sea Salt medium grain
Pinch of FDC Coral Mica and a pinch of Gold Karat Sparkle Mica
1/4 oz Watermelon Seed Oil
1 tablespoon dried calendula petals & peppermint leaves crushed or any other dried botanical of
your choice.
1/2 tsp Melon Blossom Fragrance Oil
Color the salts first with the micas. Add the watermelon seed oil and fragrance oil. Mix well. Add the
dried botanicals. Package in clear glass (Our 10 oz apothecary jar would work nicely). If you buy
the apothecary with the dome lid, you can stuff the lid with dried botanicals or potpourri.
To use: Pour 1/2 cup of salt into a bowl large enough for soaking both feet. Add hot water and
soak. Try using our lotion base fragranced with melon blossom fragrance oil to top off your foot
treatment.

Minty Toes Foot Spray
Submitted by Ruth Herron of Philadelphia, PA
Refreshes and Sooths the tiredest and Stinkiest Feet
Ingredients:
1 cup everclear
1/2 cup distilled or filtered water
1/2 cup witch hazel
1 ml tea tree essential oil
1ml pepermint essential oil
food color
Instructions:
Add essential oils into everclear and stir. Add water and witch hazel, solution will become cloudy.
Tint with food color. Refreshing blue or green color adds to the experience. Keep in spray bottle,
spray on feet and let air dry. Kicking feet in air like a little kid while drying may refresh sprit at same
time.
Moisturizing Hand Treatment Oil

If winter is doing a number on your hands, try this super rich hand treatment:
1 tsp carrot oil
1 tsp flax seed oil
1 tsp jojoba
1 drop essential oil of geranium (optional)
Slowly warm up the 3 oils while you soak your hands in hot water. Then quickly stir in the essential
oil and rub into both hands, working the oil into the skin and around the cuticles. For best results,
cover hands with a pair of gloves and leave for 30 minutes.

Nail Oil
Submitted by Yuliya of New York, NY
Moisturising anti-fungal oil
Ingredients:
10 ml sweet almond oil

5 ml hempseed oil
10 drops vitamin E oil
10 drops tea tree EO
3 drops myrrh EO
5 drops lavender EO
Instructions:
Mix all the ingredients and store in a cool, dark place. Massage into nails and area around nails as
desired.
Shoe Powder
Shoe Powder
Ingredients:
1/4 cup Baking Soda

1/8 cup Arrowroot Powder
1 tbsp Dendritic salt
3 tsp fragrance (Baby Powder works great)
Instructions:
Mix fragrance with dendritic salt. Mix into baking soda and arrowroot powder. Sprinkle in shoes/
sneakers. My husband no longer has stinky feet!

Stretch Mark Oil
Submitted by Alisha of Pasadena, CA
Ingredients:
3 tbsp. camelina oil

1 tsp. of avocado oil
1 tsp. of wheat germ oil
7 drops of tangerine EO
7 drops of geranium EO
5 drops of lavendar EO
5 drops of neroli EO
5 drops of carrot seed EO
Instructions:
Blend all oils together and massage into affected ares 1 to 2 times daily.

Useful Conversions
Approximate Equivalents
1 oz = 2 tablespoons or 6 teaspoons or 30 ml/cc or 28.35 grams or approx. 700 drops
1/2 oz = 1 tablespoon or 3 teaspoons or 15ml/cc 14.18 grams or approx. 350 drops
1 teaspoon is about 5 ml/cc
1 gallon of most oils is approximately 7.775 lbs
U.S. to Metric
1/5 teaspoon = 1 milliliter
1 teaspoon = 5 ml
1 tablespoon = 15 ml
1/5 cup = 50 ml
1 cup = 240 ml
2 cups (1 pint) = 470 ml
4 cups (1 quart) = .95 liter
4 quarts (1 gal.) = 3.8 liters
Metric to U.S.
1 militers = 1/5 teaspoon
5 ml = 1 teaspoon
15 ml = 1 tablespoon
34 ml = 1 fluid oz.
100 ml = 3.4 fluid oz.
240 ml = 1 cup
1 liter = 34 fluid oz.
1 liter = 4.2 cups
1 liter = 2.1 pints
1 liter = 1.06 quarts
1 liter = .26 gallon
Weight
1 gram = .035 ounce
100 grams = 3.5 ounces
500 grams = 1.10 pounds
1 kilogram = 2.205 pounds
1 kilogram = 35 oz.

Cooking Measurment Equivalents
1 cup = 16 tablespoons or 48 teaspoons
3/4 cup = 12 tablespoons
2/3 cup = 10 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons
1/3 cup = 5 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon
1/6 cup = 2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons
1/16 cup = 1 tablespoon
1 pint =2 cups
1 quart = 2 pints
1 tablespoon = 3 teaspoons

Aromatherapy Information
Guidelines for the use of Essential Oils
There are many ways in which you can use essential oils, however, to use them effectively, you
need to understand the properties of the oils, recommended dilutions and the various methods of
application. You should also be familiar with the different carrier oils, their shelf lives and their
effects on different skin types. Always keep good notes on blends that you make so that you can
replicate something if needed. Your notes should include ingredients and proportions, the date you
prepared the blend, comments, and improvements to be made next time. Label finished products
with the date the product was made, ingredients and instructions for use.
Because essential oils are concentrated, highly potent substances, you must know how to work
with them safely. The potential hazards of an essential oil depend on the compounds in the oil, the
dosage and frequency used, and the method of application. Some can cause skin irritations, some
can raise or lower blood pressue and some can even cause abortions so become familiar with the
oils you intend to use. Here are a few guidelines to ensure safe and effective use of essential oils:
• Use only pure essential oils from plants. Buy your oils from a trustworthy source and beware of
cheap essential oils. Prices of essential oils vary greatly and are subject to fluctuation and few
are inexpensive.
• Most essential oils should not be used undiluted (neat) on the skin. They can cause burning,
skin irritation and photosensitivity. Oils such as lavendar, or tea tree and a few others are
exceptions to this rule. These can be used neat on burns, insect bites, pimples and other skin
eruptions - unless you have sensitive skin. You can test new oils by diluting them with a carrier
oil and massaging it into the soles of your feet. Oils will usually not irritate the thicker skin. If
you do have a reaction then it is probably an allergy to the oil and you should not try to use it
on your skin.
• Some of the citrus oils greatly increase photosensitivity. Bergamot contains bergaptene, a
powerful photosensitizer that wil cause allergic reactions in some individuals. (Bergaptene-free
oil is available.) Of the citrus oils, bergamot is the most photosensitizing. If you are using
photosensitizing oils on your skin, use them at night, stay indoors, or wait at least four hours
before going out during the day.
• Keep all essential oils away from the eyes. Some are irritating to mucous membranes and
should be used with caution.
• Keep all essential oils out of the reach of young children. Older children can learn to use
essential oils safely, but they should nevertheless be supervised. In general, when treating
children with essential oils, use one-third to one-half the adult dosage and select only non-toxic
oils. The oils generally used for children are lavender, roman chamomile, mandarin, tangerine,
neroli, frankincense, petitgrain, yarrow, eucalyptus and tea tree.
• Vary the essential oils you use. While it is alright to use a small amount of a blend such as a
facial oil blend for a long period of time, it is not recommended that you use an application of
the same blend of oils over your entire body for more than two weeks at a time. Alternate with a
blend of different oils containing different chemical constituents at least every two weeks. Give
your body a chance to rid itself of the constituents of a particular oil or oils.

• Although some very experienced aromatherapists can safely prescribe the oral use of essential
oils, I do not advise you to try this on your own. Again, keep essential oils away from the reach
of children.
• Essential oils must be used cautiosly with the elderly and those who have serious health
problems such as asthma, epilepsy or heart disease. Be aware of how the oils you use can
affect these conditions.
• Use extra caution when using essential oils during pregnancy, especially during the first
trimester. Stick to the very safe oils such as rose, neroli, lavender, Ylang-Ylang, chamomile,
jasmine absolute, the citruses, geranium, sandlewood, spearmint and frankincense.
• “Too much of anything is no good.” Keep in miind that 1 ounce of essential oil is the equivalent
of several pounds of the actual plant material. If you’ve been overexposed to an essential oil,
either through the skin or through inhalation, you may experience nausea, headache, skin
irritation and/or other symptoms. If this happens, get some fresh air. If you ever experience skin
irritation or accidently get essential oils in the eyes, dilute with straight vegetable oil, not water
as water will cause further absorption.
Methods of Application - Dilutions

The most effective way to dilute essential oils is in a carrier oil. A carrier can be any high-quality
vegetable oil such as almond, apricot, hazelut, olive, macadamia, kukui, wheatgerm, grapeseed or
sesame. Carrier oils should be stored away from heat and light to ensure their freshness. The
addition of jojoba oil as 10% of your carrier oil will help extend the shelf life of your blnd as will
Vitamin E oil which is an excellent anti-oxidant; adding it to any aromatherapy blend will help
extend the life of most vegetable oils. One or two capsules (200-400 IU) per two-ounce bottle of
carrier oil is enough. Make blends in small amounts and use within a few months. They can be
stored in the refrigerator for extended shelf life.
A safe and effective dilution for most aromatherapy applications is 2% (2 drops of essential oil per
100 drops of carrier oil). There is no need to go beyond a 3% dilution for any purpose. Using more
of an oil will not get you better results; in fact, it may cause adverse effects. Some oils, such as
lavender, are sedating in low dilutions and stimulating in high dilutions. A 1% dilution should be
used on children, pregnant women, the elderly and those with health concerns.
When making blends for the first time, start with no more than two or three oils at a time. The
more complicated blends require a bit more knowledge because the oils have synergistic effects
(meaning that the combination of oils have properties greater than the um of the individual oils).
· 1% dilution: 5-6 drops essential oil per ounce of carrier oil

The size of a drop however varies depending on the viscosity of the oil, the temperature and the
opening of the dropper of course. Use an ordinary dropper that you purchase from a pharmacy.
When making large portions, use teaspoon measurements. Use the chart above from Keville and
Green’s Aromatherapy: A Complete Guide to the Healing Art as a guideline.
Storage and Shelf Life

Essential oils need to be stored away from heat and light to preserve their freshness and potency.
When stored properly, they have a shelf life of several years. The citrus oils have the shortest shelf
life of all essential oils and should be used within one year. The longest-lasting oils, which improve
as they age, tend to be the thick resins such as frankincense and myrrh, woods such as
sandlewood, roots like vetiver, as well as other oils, including spikenard and patchouli.

Various Methods of Application
• Massage/Body Oil - use a 2-3% dilution (10-12 drops per ounce of vegetable oil) or 1% (5 drops
per ounce of carrier oil) for pregnant women, people with health concerns and children.
• Tub Bath - 3-15 drops diluted in a carrier depending on the oil. Adjust amounts for baby baths
and use only the safe oils.
• Hand/Foot Bath - this is a great way to obtain the therapeutic effects of aromatherapy when a
bath is not possible. Use 3-4 drops in a little 1 quart tub of warm water and soak for 10
minutes. This is a good way to treat fungal problems of the foot.
• Compress - 5 drops per cup of warm or cold water.
• Inhalation - 3-8 drops in a bowl of hot water will help relieve congestion, coughing and chest
infections. Cover your head with a towel and inhale the vapours. Caution: never do an
inhalation during an asthma attack or with epileptic people. You can also put 3 drops of an oil
on a handerchief, pillow or cotton ball in a zip lock baggie.
• Douche - 3-5 drops per quart of warm water. Caution: Choose non-irritant oils only (e.g.,
lavender or tea tree).
• Sitz Bath - 5-10 drops per sitz bath
• Fragrant Body Water - 5-10 drops per 4 ouces of water in a spray bottle.
• Room Spray - 20 drops per 4 ounces of water in a spray bottle.

Candlemaking
Introduction
Candles were once used merely as a source of light and were simple and plain, without color or
fragrance. They came in standard sizes and shapes. Now candlemaking is an art form and candles
have become decorative works of art that come in an infinite variety of shapes, sizes, colors &
fragrances. They are generally used to create a peaceful, romantic ambiance and are treasured for
their relaxing effect. Candles have recently become a big part of home decor and this has
encouraged the development of new techniques and materials.
The techniques used in candlemaking are relatively simple however the art of candlemaking
cannot be mastered simply by reading about the techniques. Only a process of trial and error and
good note taking can make you an expert on the subject of candles. The materials you use will
determine the quality of your candles but each candle will require a different combination of
materials and techniques. Good note taking will allow you to determine what works and what
doesn’t and when you perfect your candle, you will be able to reproduce it. What ever doesn’t work,
can be melted down again and re used. Candle scraps and pieces of shaved wax can all be kept
and recycled so nothing goes to waste. Candles were meant to be burned so no matter how
beautiful your candle comes out, remember it isn’t done until it burns well so keep working at it
until you get a good smokeless, even burning candle.
A candle is basically a block of wax or fat (fuel) wrapped around a wick. The wick burns and melts
the solid fuel around it. As it melts, it â•œwicksâ•• the fuel up through the fibers and then
vaporizes the fuel. The earliest forms of fuel were animals fats, plant waxes, tallow and beeswax.
Eventually the development of paraffin revolutionized the candle industry and we were able to
achieve long burning, smoke free, inexpensive candles. Nowadays, candles can be made with pure
beeswax or pure paraffin or a blend of the two. There are also a number of different specialty waxes
that are used to give candles longer burning times and special effects.
Types of Candles
Container candles - candles that are poured into a vessel of some sort that contains the melted
wax as it burns. These candles are usually made of soft wax.
Pillar candles - thick columns of wax that can be made in a variety of geometric shapes.
Novelty candles - irregularly shaped candles that are made by molding or sculpting wax in the
shape of various objects/figurines.
Tapers - tall thin candles that are about 1/2 - 1 inch in diameter and are made to fit in a candle
holder. These are the typical dinner table candles and are made by repeatedly dipping the wick into
a container of wax until the taper is the right diameter. Tapers can also be made with a mold or by
rolling sheets of wax around a wick.
Votives - thick little candles about 2 inches in diameter and about 2-3 inches tall. These are
typically used in small spaces like bath rooms for fragrance.
Tea lights - little containers candles used for warming potpourri pots and food trays.

Methods of Candlemaking
Molding - Molded candles are made by pouring wax into molds. You can find candle molds in craft
stores/candle supplies or you can make your own molds from milk cartons, boxes, plastic shapes
etc. You can also use a rubber mold kit to make your own reusable molds.
Dipping - Tapers are easily made by repeatedly dipping a length of wick into a container of melted
wax. Each layer hardens and makes the taper thicker and thicker. The natural force of gravity
creates a tapered effect. Usually a pair of tapers is made to insure matching thickness. This is done
by holding a double length of wick in the center and dipping both ends so 2 tapers are created
simultaneously.
Poured - Poured candles refers to any candle that was made by pouring wax into a molded form -
this includes container candles, molded candles and cast candles.
Rolled - Rolled candles are probably the easiest to make. They are made by rolling sheets of wax
around the wick. Tapers, pillars and novelty candles can be made using this method.
Wax Additives
When combined with waxes, additives can harden, mottle, opacify and create other special effects.
They should generally be melted with a small amount of your wax blend and then added to the rest
of the batch of wax. This will ensure proper melting and thorough blending.
Stearic acid - when combined with paraffin waxes at the right temperature and in the right ratio,
stearic acid can combine with wax to form very strong crystalline structure. This makes a hard
candle that resists bending or caving in. It aids in mold release. Stearic acid is usually used at a rate
of about 2-5 tablespoons per pound of wax. Stearic acid also helps opacify a translucent wax. In
cases where you are overdipping a candle to protect embedded objects, (shells, leaves, flowers etc)
you will want to avoid using stearic acid as you will be unable to see through the outer coating.
Microcrystallines - a group of highly refined waxes that are generally used to increase wax to wax
adhesion or make waxes more pliable and elastic or to make waxes more durable and hard.
Choose your microcrystalline waxes carefully and know what they are for before you use them.
Used properly, they can really increase the quality of your candles.
Synthetic polymers - there are a number of polymer additives that can be used to prevent color
fading, assist in mold release, increase the luster of a candle, raise the melting point of a candle,
create mottling effects etc. You will need to follow the manufacturers directions for use to achieve
the proper results.
Commonly Used Waxes

Beeswax - Beeswax is the secretion of honeybees used to form their honey storage combs. After
the honey is removed, bee keepers generally melt down the combs and reform it into blocks of
beeswax. The beeswax has a slight honey smell and is yellow brown in color and contains bee parts
and bits of pollen. To obtain refined beeswax, the wax needs to be filtered and bleached to get
white wax. Beeswax burns slowly, doesn’t shrink as it hardens (so you don’t need to top of your
candles as they harden), and tends to be soft and tacky (making it difficult to release from molds).

Petroleum waxes or paraffins - Paraffin wax is a by product of refining crude oil into motor oil. It can
be made to have various melting points and in general are classified as low, medium and high MP
waxes. The most commonly used paraffins have melting points between 120 and 150 F. Always
make sure you are buying a good quality paraffin so that you get a good, clean and odorless
burning candle. Synthetic waxes - these can be highly refined petro waxes or synthetic polymers.
Vegetable waxes - Waxes such as carnauba and candelilla are obtained from waxy plants that grow
in Mexico, Texas and Brazil. These waxes are much more brittle than beeswax and have very high
melting points and are therefor used mainly to raise the melting point of softer waxes and to make
them harder. Use these waxes when you need to add strength to a wax blend. Soy wax is a softer
wax and is good for container candles and small 3 inch pillars. Soy wax is an earth friendly wax, it
burns longer, cooler and cleaner than paraffin wax, it comes from a renewable, sustainable source,
it is not carcinogenic & it supports American farmers.
Wax Blends
Wax sheet blends:
· 100% beeswax. Melt, color, scent and pour into flat sheets.
· Half and half beeswax and paraffin (medium melting point). Melt, color, scent and pour into
sheets.
· 100% paraffin (or 90% Paraffin and 10% stearic acid). Melt color, scent and pour into sheets.
Wax blends for pouring or dipping:
· 85% paraffin and 15% stearic acid
· 65% paraffin, 10% beeswax and 25% stearic
· 85% paraffin, 10% stearic and 5% candelilla wax
Wax blends for sculpting/modeling wax:
· Equal parts paraffin and beeswax
· 70% beeswax and 30% paraffin
Wax blend for pliable modeling wax:
· 2 pounds of beeswax and 3 oz of petroleum jelly
Wax blend for wax paint:
· 1 cup beeswax and 1/4 cup turpentine
Figuring out how much wax you need to fill a container/mold: Fill your container or mold with
water. Then measure the water in a measuring cup. For each cup of water, you will need
approximately 8 ounces or 1/2 lb of wax.

Candle Wicks
When making a candle, always prime your wicks if they are not pre primed. Priming the wick
means saturating the wick in wax to eliminate air bubbles in the wick. This allows for good burning.
When burning a candle, always trim the wick to about 1/4 inch so that when it burns, it will keep
the flame from getting too big and will help the wick burn properly. The wick should have a 1 - 2
inch flame that burns steady and the tip of the wick should be in the outer oxidation zone of the
flame so that it burns off completely. If the tip of the wick is within the combustion zone (inner part
of the flame), it will smoke.
Whether or not your candle burns properly will depend largely on your choice of wick. The
thickness of the wick must be chosen according to the thickness of your candle but also, it needs
to be able to melt just the right amount of the wax so that it will have a good burn rate. The burn
rate is the amount of wax the wick will burn in a given amount of time. The wick should be burning
enough wax so that a pool surrounds the wick without spilling over the side of the candle. Spilling
wax means that the wick is melting too much wax and not wicking or using it up fast enough;
therefore the wick is too small for the diameter of the candle or for the type of wax used. Too little
wax surrounding the wick means that the wick is drawing up the wax too quickly and is not getting
the fuel it needs; therefore the wick is too large for the diameter of the candle or for the type of wax
used. Keeping this in mind will help you determine if your wick is too thick or too thin for your
candle diameter and wax type.
Types of Wicks
Deciding on which wick to use requires a bit of trial and error at first. You can start by following the
general guidelines for choosing a wick according to the diameter of the candle but the type of wax
and additives you choose will also determine if your wick will work efficiently.
Certain wick types work best with certain candle types:
Flat braid wicks are made by braiding 3 multi-ply strands of cotton. The more plies per strand, the
larger the wick Flat braids generally run extra small (15 ply), small (18 ply), medium ( 24-30 ply),
large (42 ply) and extra large (60 ply). Use flat braids in tapers. Small diameter pillars and beeswax
sheet rolled candles.
Square braided wicks are specially braided to form a square shaped wick. These wicks are
numbered starting at 6/0 (the smallest) to 1/0 (about medium) and then #1 through #10 (the
largest). The numbers without the /0 are braided less tightly and allow the wick to be thicker
without being denser or heavier. Use a square braid wick in rolled beeswax candles, pillars, large
cast candles & novelty candles.
Cored wicks can have a paper, cotton, zinc or lead core (although lead core wicks are less
common today) that holds the wick up. The metal cores burn hotter than cotton or paper and
should be used when you need a higher burn rate or are using a high melt wax blend. Cored wicks
are used for container candles so that they stand erect while pouring the wax and so they don’t
bend over into the wax pool as the candle burns. These generally come in small, medium and
large sizes although specialty sizes are available.

To Prime a Wick
Priming a wick allows it to light easily and burn steadily. If you are making ice candles, you need to
prime the wick to keep the wick from absorbing the water from the ice. Primed wicks will stand
erect in a container so if you cannot find a cored wick large enough for a very large candle, you
can use a primed large square or flat braid or even a shoe lace. Prime wicks are also stiff enough to
push through a cast candle after it has been poured. To prime a wick, melt your wax and dip the
wick in the wax until all the air bubbles escape. Pull the wick taut and allow it to dry.
Tabbing Your Wicks

When making a container candle, or pushing a wick into a cast candle, you will need to attach a
wick tab to the wick. Simply push a primed wick into the hole and use pliers to squeeze the metal
prongs around the wick. Now you can place the tab in the bottom of a candle container or push
the wick into the hole of a candle and secure with some melted wax. To make a hole in a candle for
the wick, heat up a wicking needle and push all the way through the candle.
Coloring Your Candle

Candle colorants need to be soluble in oil or wax. We recommend using the dyes especially made
for candles. Start with a few basic colors since these can be mixed to produce additional colors.
You can also make natural dyes by infusing herbs/spices in oil. Good botanicals to try are annatto
seeds (orange), turmeric (yellow-orange), paprika (red), beet (violet-red), plant leaves (green). Use
very small amounts of dye to achieve pastel, translucent candles.
Another way to color candles is to start with a white or lightly colored candle (a core candle or a
premade candle base) and simply overdip or paint the base with colored wax. For instance, you
can take a plain white ball base and ‘glue’ on colored wax pieces until the base is covered such as
when making a millefiori design.
Scenting Your Candle

You may use essential oils or fragrance oils to scent your candles however when using fragrance
oils, make sure they are oil based and not alcohol based. Use essential/fragrance oils at a rate of 1
teaspoon per pound wax. Too much oil will mottle your wax or ooze out of the wax. If you find that
your candle doesn’t give off the scent as it burns, you can try soaking the wick in the fragrance/
essential oil before making your candle. It’s difficult to determine which scents will work best and
which ones will be heat activated. Experiment with various types to see which work best.

Techniques for Candlemaking
Decorating with Botanicals
To Apply Pressed Flowers - start with a warm candle base and have your pressed flowers laid out.
Heat a spoon and use the back of it to soften a portion of your base where you want to place the
first flower. Immediately press the flower onto the softened wax. Keep applying flowers until you are
finished. Now you are ready to overdip your candle (do not use stearic acid or it will opacify your
surface). After overdipping, immediately plunge the candle into cool water to give it a glossy finish.
To roll your candles in herbs/petals - Spread out your finely minced dried herbs. Use lavender buds,
calendula petals, finely crushed rosehips, hibiscus, and other colorful herbs. Coat one half of your
candle base with regular craft glue and roll in the herbs. Repeat on the other half and let it dry for
several hours. Go back and fill in the bald spots.
Dipping Candles
Dipping a candle is one of the easiest ways to make a candle. It naturally creates a tapered effect
as a length of wick is repeated immersed in wax until it reaches the desired diameter. They are
generally made in pairs by dipping both ends of a double length wick into the wax simultaneously.
You will need a dipping can a few inches taller than the desired candle height and you will need
enough wax to form the candles as well as to maintain the level of wax in the dipping can. Select a
1/0 square braid or a 30 -42 ply flat braid. You can use 100% beeswax, a blend of paraffin and
beeswax, or a blend of paraffin, beeswax and stearic (see suggested blends). Also have ready a
bucket of water to submerge the tapers in. Cut a length of wick 2 x the desired height of the tapers
+ 4 inches. Tie a metal washer or bolt to each end of the wick as weights. Cut a 2 inch piece of
cardboard and make a 1/2 in cut on 2 opposite sides. Centering your wick, insert the wick into the
niches so that the hanging lengths are equal. Heat the wax in a double boiler to 155F if you are
using paraffin and stearic or 165F if you are using beeswax. Color and scent the wax. Pour the wax
into the dipping can to about 1 inch from the top and maintain this level by refilling it with wax as
necessary. Keep the dipping can in a hot water bath to keep it at the right temperature. Dip the
wick ends into the wax to about 1 inch of the top and hold it there until you don’t see any more
bubbles escaping. Hang the cardboard on something so that the wicks can harden. You can also
dip them in the bucket of cool water to speed up the hardening. When all the water has run off and
the wax is cool, re-submerge quickly to the same level pulling it out slowly but steadily. Allow it to
cool again. Re submerge as before and you should begin to see the wax building up. If it’s not,
then the dipping wax is too hot and is melting the wax each time you redip so let it cool down a few
degrees before redipping. Keep dipping and cooling until the candles reach 1/4 inch in diameter at
the thickest end. Then cut off the bottom of the candles evenly, taking off the weights. Keep
dipping the candles until they reach about 7/8 inches (the standard) in diameter. Use a knife to
shave off excess wax at the base of the candle before the last few dips. If you want, you can dip the
last few dips in a high melting point wax to give the candle a hard outer shell. Immediately after the
last dip, immerse your tapers in cool water to give them a shiny surface. Hang them up to harden
completely.
A couple of notes about dipping - The candle will not grow if your wax is too hot and it will become
lumpy if the wax is too cold so for each new wax blend that you use, you will need to find the
perfect temperature for dipping. Don’t let your candle get too cool between dips or the layers will

not adhere to one another. Try to dip with a steady rhythm keeping the wax temperature nice and
steady. It will be difficult to dip candles in a cold environment so try to work in a warm room.
Overdipping the tapers - overdipping simply means that your last dip is in a high melting point wax
and therefore it creates a nice hard outer shell that eliminates dripping. The inner wax is contained
by the hard outer shell until it is completely consumed. To overdip a candle, melt your high MP wax
and add 10-30% stearic acid (unless you need the candle surface to be see through). Make sure
the candle to be overdipped is not cold or the wax will not adhere well. Take your warm candle and
dip it into the overdip wax and pull it our slowly but steadily. The candle will be soft from the high
temperature. To get a nice glossy finish, immediately submerge the candle in cool water and then
hang it carefully until it rehardens. An overdip can be used to color a white candle too. Instead of
using colored wax for the whole candle, you can use a regular white taper and just dip it into
colored overdip wax.
Because tapers remain pretty pliable between dips, you can take advantage of this and create
braided candles by braiding 3 skinny tapers together or twisting a pair of skinny tapers around
each other. You can flatten your taper a little with a warm rolling pin (leave the base round so it will
fit into a candle holder) and then twist the whole candle to create a twisted taper.
To seal in botanicals on the surface of a candle, ‘glue’ the botanicals onto the surface of the candle
with some melted wax and then overdip in a high melt paraffin without stearic acid. You can add 5-
10% microcrystalline (the type that hardens) to the paraffin for extra hardness.
Overdipping for Decorating

Wax for overdipping can be just regular wax that you made your candle with or you can add stearic
acid or microcrystallines to it to make it harder. You can also just use a high melt wax. With the
process of overdipping, you can do a number of decorative things. You can overdip a plain white
candle to color it, you can revive old candles that have discolored or faded, you can create striped
candles by overdipping in 2 different colors or you can overdip to protect embedded objects on the
surface of the candles. To set up your overdipping station, you will want to have a double boiler
going in which you will place your dipping container. Fill it with enough wax to cover the whole
candle when submerged but leave enough space at he top so that the wax doesn’t overflow when
displaced by the candle. Make sure the wax is at about 20 degrees above its melting point. Use
pliers to hold your candle by the wick. Make sure the candles are warm before they are overdipped,
otherwise, your layers will not adhere. Have a bucket of cool water nearby to submerge the freshly
dipped candle. This will give it a nice glossy hard finish.
Striping a candle - Place strips of masking tape around the candle where you want it to remain the
base color. Then dip the candle in colored wax, plunge it into cool water and allow it to dry.
Remove the tape. You can also create horizontal stripes by dipping half the candle in one color,
flipping it over and dipping the other half plus an inch or 2 in another color. The part that got
dipped in both colors will be a mix of the two colors so you will have a candle with 3 different color
bands.
Overpouring
You can create some really pretty candles by overpouring around a premade base. Place your
premade base inside of a mold that is slightly larger in diameter than the base. Surround the base
with dried flowers, shells, coffee beans, beads etc to fill the space between the base and the mold.
Slowly pour in a clear wax (no stearic acid) that has a higher melting point than the base wax.

Check to see if you need to repour if the wax shrinks down. Remove from the mold once the
candle is cooled sufficiently. If the objects need to be exposed a bit more, you can use swift even
swipes of a propane torch to melt off some of the surface wax until the objects are visible. Use a
piece of panty hose to buff up the surface once it hardens.
Painting with Wax

Make up a wax paint with 1 part melted paraffin and 3 1/2 parts turpentine. Let the mixture sit for a
few days so the turpentine can evaporate leaving a pasty wax paint. Add candle dye and apply to a
candle base with a paint brush. Overdip the candle to protect the paint job.
Candles can also be painted with regular acrylic paints. You can use brush techniques or sponging
techniques or even stencils. You can protect your painting with an overdipped coat.
Poured Candles
A poured candle simply means a candle that was made by pouring melted wax into a form so that
the candle takes on the form when hardened. Therefore, poured candles can be container candles,
candles that were formed in a mold or cast candles. Container candles are the easiest to make as
the wax is simply poured into the container in which it will be burned.
Pouring a Container Candle

Find a container that has a wide opening, is not deeper than about 5 inches, and is made of metal,
ceramic or glass. Choose a paraffin wax or wax blend with a low melting point and a medium cored
wick. Determine how much wax you will need to fill your container/s. Start melting your wax in a
double boiler or crock pot. Cut your cored wick to a length 1 inch longer than the height of your jar
and tab one end. Warm your candle containers to reduce wax shrinkage. You can warm them in
some hot water. When your wax is at a temperature of about 150F, you can color it and add your
fragrance. Pour a 1/2 inch layer of wax into your container and quickly center the wick tab in the
wax and hold it until it won’t move. Let the wax cool a bit and then fill up the rest of the container
to about 1/2 inch of the top. The wax will shrink a bit as it cools so when you have a thin layer of
hardened wax on the surface, poke some holes around the wick all the way to the bottom of the
container and then pour in some more hot wax to fill up the holes. You will probably need to repeat
this repour a few times until all the wax is hardened. Trim the wick to 1/2 inch from the surface of
the candle. You will know you have the right combination of wax and wick if your candle burns with
an evenly liquefied surface without creating a puddle of wax that drowns out the wick. Your wick is
too small for the diameter of the candle or for the melting point of the wax you chose if it leaves
walls of wax on the side of the container.
Making Candles Using Molds

Candle molds can be simple one piece molds, or 2 piece molds that allow for complex shapes or
even disposable molds that can be torn away once the candle has hardened. Even an empty milk
carton can be used to mold a candle.
Generally, a one piece candle mold comes with a hole in the base that allows you to thread the
wick through it. You then use a wick sealer and screw to hold it in place. The other end of the wick
is usually wrapped around a rod or pencil that rests along the upper rim of the mold, holding the
wick taut and centered. A store bought mold will come with more specific instructions for use. If
you are using a homemade mold such as a milk carton, you can make a small hole in the bottom
of the carton, thread the wick through and then seal the hole with some modeling clay or putty or
tape. This will become the top of your candle so make sure to leave excess wick outside of the

hole. If you can’t (or don’t want to) make a hole in the mold, you can pour your candle and then
using a hot knitting needle, make a hole straight through the center of the candle. Push a primed
wick up through the hole and then fill the hole with wax. You can also hang a weighted wick (use a
metal washer as a weight) from a rod or pencil and then pour your candle.
To pour your candle - melt your wax blend to about 165F in a double boiler or crock pot and add
your wax additives, color and scent. Have your mold wicked and ready to go. If you are using a
rigid mold, lightly coat the inside with mold release (not necessary if you are using a rubber mold
or disposable tear away mold). Pour a 1/2 inch layer of wax into the mold to help seal the wick
hole. When your wax reaches the right temperature for pouring (your mold instructions should
have a suggested wax temperature), pour the wax slowly down the side of the mold to prevent air
bubbles. If you are using a water bath to cool/shrink the candle quickly, transfer the mold to the
water making sure no water runs into the candle. Make sure the whole depth of the candle is
submerged and weigh it down with something heavy so it won’t bob around. Once a thin layer on
the surface has hardened, poke holes around the wick down the length of the candle to release the
air bubbles and fill the holes with more wax. Make sure that the wax doesn’t run over the sides of
the candle between the wall of the mold and the side of the candle that has shrunk and pulled
away from the mold. Repeat the repouring until the surface no longer caves. Wait until the candle
is completely cool and hard before attempting to remove it doesn’t become distorted from the
handling. If you find it difficult to remove the candle from the mold even after it has hardened, try
popping it in the refrigerator for 20 minutes.
Color Variation
You can pour a candle with different colored layers by pouring a color and then waiting until it
hardens and then pouring another color. The harder you let each layer get between pours, the
more sharp the color change. If you want the colors to blend a little between layers, pour your
layers when only about 1/8 inch of the previous layer has hardened. The second color will melt the
first and the colors will blend a bit.
Chunk Candles
A chunk candle is made by filling the mold with chunked up pieces of colored wax and the pouring
a clear or contrasting colored wax over the chunks. You will need to tap the mold around to ensure
that air doesn’t become trapped inside the candle around the chunks.
Embedding Objects
To make candles with objects (sea shells, botanicals, decorative objects) on the outer surface of the
candle, place the objects along the mold wall and hold them in place with chunks of wax the same
color as the rest of your candle. Then pour your melted wax to fill up the mold. Tap the mold
around lightly to release trapped air bubbles. The closer you can get the objects to the wall of the
mold, the more they will show through the surface of the candle. Don’t use stearic acid in these
candles because it will opacify the wax and the objects will not show through. These candles are
best poured in a larger diameter mold otherwise, the objects will become loose as the candle
burns. If the objects do not show well through the surface, use quick even swipes of a propane
torch to melt the outer surface of the candle to expose more of the objects.
A Layered Color Effect

You can make a candle that has a light colored exterior with a darker colored or contrasting
colored center. To do this, pour a candle as you would normally and wait until a thin layer of wax
hardens on the surface. Using a knife, carefully carve off the hardened top surface leaving a 1/8
inch wall and pour the liquid wax from the center back into your melting pot. You can either

deepen this wax further by adding more dye or use another color to fill in the candle. The deeper
color on the inside of the candle will create an interesting look. You can even carve designs onto
the surface of the candle to expose the inner color using a hot carving tool.
Rolling Wax Sheets

This is the easiest and fastest way to make candles and is something to think about if you need to
produce quick inventory for a craft show or gift giving season. Wax sheets can be made of 100%
beeswax, 100% paraffin wax or a blend of the two. They can be embossed with a honeycomb
design or be plain flat sheets. They come in various colors as well as natural.
To make your own wax sheets, melt and color/scent one of the recommended wax blends and
pour it evenly onto a foiled flat surface. Allow it to cool and carefully peel away the foil paper. Trim
the sides to make even sheets.
To roll a simple pillar candle, place a length of 36-42 ply flat braid wick or a 1/0 square braid wick
1/8 inch from the narrow edge of a wax sheet (cut your wick at least 1 1/2 inch longer than the
height of your candle). Make sure the wax sheets have been kept in a warm room for a while before
starting so that they will be pliable and won’t break when you try to roll them. Bend the edge of the
sheet over the wick and press firmly so the wick is nicely sandwiched between the wax layers. Start
rolling the sheet tightly, keeping the bottom edge of your candle even. When you get to the edge,
press it firmly onto the surface of the candle so it seals. Using a heated knife will help if the wax
doesn’t want to stick. Run the hot blade across the open edge and quickly seal into place. Trim the
wick to be flush on the bottom and to within 1/2 inch on top.
A fun thing to do with wax sheets is to use cookie cutters or a knife to cut various shapes out of the
sheets and then apply the shapes onto plain pillar candles.

Library Information
About Dead Sea Ingredients
Dead Sea Salts are very mineral rich, containing high proportions of Potassium, Magnesium and
Bromide. Potassium helps regulate the moisture level of the skin, Magnesium helps promote
healing, and Bromide has a smoothing and relaxing effect. The natural mineral salts exfoliate and
revitalize the skin and help draw out toxins. Sea Salt is well known for it's ability to relieve aches &
pains, reduce stiffness after exertion, relax the muscles and relieve skin problems such as acne,
eczema & psoriasis.
The high mineral content of Dead Sea Salt stimulates blood and lymphatic circulation. Increased
circulation moves trapped fluid from joints, improving joint movement and reducing stiffness and
pain. Regular use of salts promotes healthy skin by exfoliating and encouraging regeneration of
new skin cells.
The Mud and/or Clay from the Dead Sea is equally rich in minerals and helps revitalize, exfoliate
and purify the skin. It draws toxins, oils & debris from the skin leaving a clean fresh feeling. It
helps to tighten pores and stimulate circulation so your skin is left with a smooth healthy glow. The
mud can also be used as a pack for sore joints. Use the mud as a hair pack to alleviate dandruff
and oily hair conditions. It will not over dry the scalp.
The Dead Sea Brine is the mineral rich water from the Dead Sea. It can be used in creams, lotions,
facials, masks, body wraps, etc.
To use the mud or clay:
A Dead Sea Mud Mask can be made very simply with some dead sea clay and enough water to
make a thick paste. The best water would of course be, the dead sea brine. You can also use the
mud which is already wet. You can add 3 drops of essential oil to the mud to help cleanse the
pores and kill bacteria that cause blemishes. Other wetting agents for the clay are fruit puree,
yogurt, cucumber juice, milk, etc. Honey can be added to make the mask anti bacterial. If your
skin tends to be dry in some spots, you may want to add some jojoba to the mud mask to help
balance the skin. Other good additives are: Powdered Sea Vegetables, Powdered Rice Bran,
Colloidal Oatmeal, Nut Meals, Powdered Herbs etc. Dead Sea Masks cannot be premixed and
stored so only mix what you will use immediately or provide customers with a specially blended
wetting agent in a separate container so they can mix as they need.
A great Dead Sea hair wrap can be made with 1/2 cup mud or clay (wet with Dead Sea Brine), 1
Tablespoon shikakai powder, 1 tsp aritha powder, 1 tsp neem powder, 1 Tablespoon jojoba oil and
5 drops of rosemary essential oil. Mix all the ingredients and massage through wet hair. Wrap with
plastic and then a hot towel. Leave it for at least 15 minutes and then wash out.
Dead Sea Mud and Clay can be added to soap at a rate of 1T - 2T per pound.
To use Dead Sea Salt:
Dead Sea Salt can be used by itself to make a bath salt or you can blend it with other salts to keep
your costs down. It can be used as is or you can color and scent.

About Dendritic Salts
Dendritic salts are micro crystallized salts that have an enormous surface area and therefore help
hold fragrance and discourage clumping of regular salts. They are effective when used at a rate of
5% in bath salts (slightly less than 1 oz per pound of regular salts). Mix your fragrance oil with your
dendritic salts first and then blend that into your other salts.
About Emu Oil

Emu oil is rapidly gaining recognition as an invaluable cosmetic ingredient due to very positive
results in current studies. It has an extraordinary ability to penetrate the skin, acts as a carrier for
carrying other ingredients into the skin, it is non-comedogenic, and is completely non irritating. It
has been found to reduce inflammation and redness of the skin, reduce the formation of wrinkles
and restore moisturize to irritated dry skin. It is extremely healing when used in conjuction with
Tamanu oil for ezcema and psoriasis. In addition, it has been found to reduce inflammation and
pain of sore muscles and joints and can help with conditions such as arthritis. It is unparalleled in
its ability to heal burns and prevent the formation of scar tissue while encouraging rapid repair of
damaged tissue and should be a must have for the medicine cabinet. A blend of emu oil, water
and lavender essential oil in a spray bottle will rapidly heal wounds, burns, stitches, and even hot
spots in dogs and encourage quick re-growth of lost hair/fur due to injury or surgery (ask me how I
know!). Used in soap at 10-20%, emu oil will make a hard bar with stable moisturizing lather.
Use emu oil in essential oil blends to help deliver the oils into the skin. Use in massage or sports
blends to relieve soreness and inflammation. Emu oil becomes creamy looking at 65 F and will
solidify if keep colder. Refrigeration is recommended if you plan to store emu oil for longer than 3
months.
About Hemp
Hemp (Cannabis sativa) The hemp plant is one of the most economically useful plants because
every part of the plant can be used and multiple crops can be harvested annually from a single
field. The seeds of the hemp plant yield a non narcotic oil that is made up of 81% poly-unsaturated
essential fatty acids of EFAs necessary for the metabolism of healthy skin. Due to this unusually
high content of EFAs, hemp seeds are used in a variety of health food preparations and the oil is
being used more and more in the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical industries. Hemp seed oil can
be used at a rate of 5-20% in soaps, lotions, creams, balms, lotion bars etc.
Hemp fiber is becoming popular in the textile industry due to economic and environmental
concerns. Compared to cotton, hemp produces twice as much fiber per acre and while cotton
typically requires significant amounts of pesticide spraying, hemp requires none. Hemp does not
need as much water as cotton and can grow in almost any temperate or tropical climate. The fiber
from hemp is 10 times stronger than cotton and can be used to make all types of clothing.

About Neem Oil
The neem seed kernel is very rich in fatty acids such as oleic, stearic, palmitic, linoleic and various
others. The oil is very bitter, dark in color and has a strong garlicky smell. Neem oil is an excellent
moisturizing oil that has been used historically for it’s proven medicinal properties. Today scientific
research validates the traditional uses of neem in general body and specifically skin care, to treat
bacterial, fungal, and viral infections, and to boost the immune system and for a variety of health
problems. The use of the oil for cosmetics and medicines has been limited by its strongly bitter
taste and strong odor however, when it is used in soap, the odor fades and can be further masked
with the use of essential or fragrance oils.
Anecdotal reports of neem date back to the Middle Ages, and accounts of its successful use in
treating skin lesions and a variety of ailments come from around the world. On the Indian
subcontinent, where the neem tree is known as the “village pharmacy,” researchers have found
more than 60 medicinal uses. Today, neem oil is becoming popular outside of India because it has
proven itself to be a safe alternative to stronger, less benign treatments. It can be used to treat
acne, eczema, psoriasis, other skin lesions, dandruff, lice, chicken pox, diaper rash, insect bites,
hot spots in animals etc.
The neem oil that we offer is a wildcrafted, unrefined neem oil and is of superior quality.
Recommended Usage:
· In soap: use the oil as 30% of the base oil or as a superfatting agent at 5-10%.
· In antibacterial salves: make a balm with beeswax, neem oil and tea tree for cuts and scrapes.
· As a facial for acne control: mix the neem powder with green clay and use as a mask.
· In the bath: make a strong tea with the leaves or the powder and pour into bath water.
· For athletes foot and other foot problems: Make a strong tea and soak feet.
· For dandruff and head lice: Massage the oil into hair and leave for 1 hour. Shampoo. Repeat
once weekly for 3 weeks or as long as problem persists.
· As a garden pesticide: Spray infested plant material with a solution of neem oil, aritha powder
(as a surfactant) and water. The insects will avoid sprayed leaves and will die of starvation.
Essential, Fragrance & Flavor Oils

What is the difference between Essential oils, Fragrance oils and Flavor oils?
An essential oil is a pure natural product obtained by distillation of plant material. These oils are
volatile (they will evaporate), highly fragrant, very strong (they contain concentrated levels of
chemical components found in the plant it has been distilled from)and have medicinal properties
related to the chemical constituents of the plant. These oils are limited to the botanicals which
yield a reasonable amount of oil from distillation and their prices are highly dependent on the oil
yield of a particular plant. Essential oils must be properly diluted and used with caution because
they have such strong medicinal properties but they are a must for all natural skin care products.
Some essential oils are safe for use in lip care products but please do your research first!
Fragrance oils are generally made from a combination of essential oils and synthetic aromatic
compounds. They are rarely “all natural” although it can be done. They are unlimited in the range

of possible fragrances and are usually much less expensive than pure essential oils. They do not
need to be regulated like essential oils do and are very easy to work with. They are generally used
at 2-5% in formulations and can be used as perfume oils when diluted in a vegetable oil or jojoba.
Do not use fragrance oils in lip care products! Do not use our toiletry fragrance oils in candles -
they will not burn!
Flavor oils are really just fragrances that are approved for use in lip products. They do not give a
taste to lip balms (they are not sweet oils). Use at recommended rate of 2-5%.
Can candle fragrance oils be used in toiletries and vise versa?

Some fragrance oil manufacturers claim that their oils can be used in both candles and soap
however they usually say this because soap is not regulated by the FDA. Our candle oils at FNWL,
are made in a non cosmetic grade base so we discourage the use of our candle FOs in skin care
products. Our toiletry oils on the other hand are made in a cosmetic grade base that will not burn
well in candles. If we have a fragrance in the toiletries section that we do not carry in the candle
section, please feel free to request it.
How to
Heat Shea Butter Properly
Improper heating of shea butter can cause the butter to crystallize as it cools which can cause lip
balms, body butters and other formulations to turn gritty upon sitting. In order to avoid this, shea
butter must be melted and heated to about 175 degrees and kept at that temperature for at least
20 minutes. This will allow the butter to melt completely so that crystals will not form once cooled.
Melt Solid Oils

To melt solid oil for pouring, place the container in a hot water bath for 20 minutes.
Reshape Flattened Loofah

Our loofahs come flattened to save on shipping costs. To plump them, they can be soaked in water
and then air dried or spritzed with alcohol and shaped by hand.
Figure a Percentage (i.e., how much fragrance oil to add)

To work out a percentage, take the size of your batch (usually the weight) and multiply by the
percentage required. For example if you are making a 5 lb batch of cream and need to add 2% of
an essential oil, you would first convert 5 lbs to 80 oz ( 5lbs x 16oz = 80 oz) and then multiply 80
oz by .02 (2%) which gives you 1.6 oz.
If the resulting number is very small or difficult to measure, you can multiply oz x 30 to get ml (or
cc). So 1.6 oz x 30 = 48 ml or 48 cc. You can find ml/cc syringes at any pharmacy.
Making
An Infusion
Making an infusion simply means making a “tea”. Bring the water almost to boiling and then pour
over the herbs. Generally 1 cup water is used per 1-2 teaspoons of herb. Let it steep for at least 15
minutes. Cool and strain. Store in a glass jar but preserve with alcohol if you intend to keep it for
more than 3 days.

Linen Waters
To make a linen spray, start with an essential oil blend or fragrance oil and add a solubilizer. You
can use Polysorbate 20 mixed 1:1 or our fragrance base mixed 1:4 (fragrance:solubilizer). Some
trial and error will be necessary as some fragrances may cloud when added to P20 or the fragrance
base. Shake the blend until you get a homogenous solution. You may need to add a bit more
solubilizer if the oil does not become miscible. Once the oil dissolves in the solubilizer, you can now
add it to a 50/50 (or desired proportion) water/alcohol blend.
Natural Hair Care

Premature hair loss is becoming a big problem these days and yet we continue to treat our hair
with very harsh chemicals because there don’t seem to be any immediate health risks. Treating hair
naturally can be very easy though. Here are some tips for natural hair care:
Cleansing
Use a detergent free cleanser - Liquid castille is a very good, mild soap for the hair. Herb such as
shikakai, amla & aritha have been used for centuries in India to gently clean the hair and scalp.
These herbs are used to make a “tea” which is then used to wash the hair. Neem powder tea can
be used when there are scalp problems such as dandruff or to treat lice.
Conditioning
Apple cider vinegar infused with natural herbs such as rosemary and neem is the best natural
conditioner. It will leave your hair soft and manageable.
Oil Treatments
Combine the following: 6 oz fractionated coconut oil, 3 oz Monoi de Tahiti, 1 oz castor oil, 2 oz
jojoba, 2 oz emu oil, 2 oz shea oil. When ready to use, heat the oils in a double boiler and apply to
dampened hair and scalp. Wrap with a hot towel and allow it to sit for 20 minutes. Wash with liquid
castille soap (rosemary essential oil can be added to the castille soap).
Using
An Anti-Oxidant to Preserve Your Products
In the cosmetic industry, an anti oxidant is a preservative that reduces the rate of oxidation of
unstable oils. You would want to use an anti oxidant in your skin care products if they contain
fragile oils such as sweet almond, hemp, avocado, flax, evening primrose etc or simply if they are
going to be kept for long periods of time. You can add anti oxidants directly to your oils to keep
them fresh or you can add the anti oxidant to the oil phase of your recipe. Lip balm, lotion bars,
creams, lotions, and any other product containing oils can benefit from the addition of an anti
oxidant.
Examples of anti oxidants are vitamin E (must be a low alpha mixed tocopherol form of vitamin E
to work as an anti oxidant) or Rosemary Oil Extract. Both are typically used at a rate of .5 -2%. Mix
with your oils before combining oils with water (if applicable).
Vitamin E from the health food store is NOT a suitable anti oxidant for skin care products because
it contains a high percentage of alpha-tocopherol which is great for your skin but doesn’t act as an
anti oxidant. The delta and gamma tocopherols are better anti oxidants than the alpha tocopherol
and these can be found in a high percentage in our T50 vitamin E oil.

Clay in Soap
The addition of clay gives soap a creamy dense lather that makes it ideal for shaving. Bentonite
and French Green clay are often used for this purpose. Clay is also useful for adding natural
earthtone colors to soap. Use it at a rate of 1 T per pound of soap.
Clays for Facial Masks

Various clays are made up of different mineral contents and each clay has a different effect on the
skin. The high mineral content of clays rejuvenates the skin while the clay exfoliates and stimulates
blood circulation to the skin. Regular use of clay facials will remove dead skin cells, improve
circulation to the skin, remove debris from the pores and bring about a smooth healthy glow. Each
clay has the ability to absorb toxins from the skin but they differ in their level of absorption.
China clay or white kaolin has a mild astringent effect and is best used on dry to normal skin.
Multani mitti or fullers earth absorbs toxins very well and exfoliates well making it a good facial clay
for oily, scaly, combination skin.
Roseclay is similar to china clay and is good for dry to normal skin.
Bentonite and French Green clay are the most drawing of the clays and are best used on oily to
normal skin. These can help revitalize tired looking skin and will encourage blood flow to the skin.
Moroccan red clay is also good for drawing out toxins and excess oils from the skin and should be
used for oily to normal skin types.
Emulsifying Wax
Our emulsifying wax is a vegetable based emulsifier (Ingredients: Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60,
PEG-150 Stearate & Steareth-20). It is used to bind oil and water together in creams, lotions etc.
Measure out 5% emulsifying wax and melt with your other solid waxes/oils.
FD & C Dyes
To use FD & C dyes: These dyes are water soluble and highly concentrated. Mix a small amount
with warm water and stir until dissolved. Since the color of your product will be lighter than the
color of the dyed water, you will need to do some trials to determine how much dye is required per
batch to get the end results you desire. These dyes produce brilliant colors and can be blended to
get other colors. Add this dye to the water phase of your formulation.
Flavor Oils
Flavor oils are simply “fragrance” for lip products. These oils do not have a taste and they are not
sweet. The oil can be added to one of the oils or directly to your lip balm batch while it is still warm.
Use the flavor oils at 2 - 5% but not more than 5%.

Grapefruit Seed Extract
One of the reasons people are moving away from commercial soaps and skin care products is
because of the numerous chemicals and preservatives used that have questionable effects on our
health. Grapefruit seed extract is a natural (extracted from the seeds of grapefruits) citricidal
preservative. It can be used in many ways for household disinfection and can also be used to
preserve soaps, toiletries and cosmetics. In the house, it can be used to wash fruit, vegetables and
meat/fish, disinfect countertops, laundry, toothbrushes, utensils, humidifiers, etc. It can also be
used diluted as a mouthwash, gargle or disinfectant for hands. Pretty much anywhere you use
commercial disinfectants, you can substitute GSE and you can rest assured that it is safe for you
and the environment. It can even be used to disinfect drinking water if necessary.
Handling GSE
Avoid contact with eyes. If contact should occur, immediately flush eyes/eye with water for at least
10 minutes and see a physician. Always dilute before using on skin or for personal use. There’s no
need to dilute for use in soaps and toiletries. If it comes in contact with the skin (unless you’re
using a drop for warts or cysts), you should thoroughly rinse the area with water. As with all other
medications, keep out of the reach of children.
Uses
• For a fruit/veggie or meat/fish wash: use 8-15 drops per gallon of water
• For laundry: add 10 drops to rinse cycle
• For humidifiers: add 4 drops per gallon to the reservoir
• For disinfecting toothbrushes: 2 drops in 5 oz. of water. You can store your toothbrush for a
week in this solution.
• As a gargle or mouthwash: 3 drops in 5 oz. of water
• To disinfect drinking water: If possible, filter water first or let sit. Add 10 drops GSE to gallon of
clear water. Shake and let resettle. It will be bitter but clean.
• For general disinfection of counter tops and other surfaces: Use 8-15 drops per gallon of water.
• Make your own baby wipes: Use 20 drops in 16 oz. of water
• For soap or lotions: Use between .05 and 2% of your total ingredients. Add to oils before adding
lye when using in soap.
How Much to Use
Use GSE ar a rate of .05- 2%. To measure out 2%, multiply the total volume (in ounces) of your
batch times .02 to get ounces of GSE to use. Usually the amount is too small to measure in
ounces so you can multiply that number by 30 to get ml and use an ml syringe to measure your
GSE.
How GSE is Made
GSE is made with extracts of citrus seeds/pulp. It is made through a special process of combining
polyphenols with the acidic extracts of citrus seeds/pulp until they convert to a stable quaternary

ammonium compounds. Some quat. compounds are toxic to animal life but GSE provides very
broad anti bacterial activity while demonstrating no toxicity. It is blended with vegetable glycerin to
make it non irritating to the skin and mucous membranes. As a blend, GSE is safe enough to use
as a disinfectant for drinking water when necessary. Our GSE does not contain any preservatives
such as parabens as it shouldn’t be necessary if GSE itself is a preservative. While the 33% GSE is
suitable for regular household purposes, the 60% Concentrated GSE is recommended for
cosmetic purposes. Use at .05 to 1% to preserve most formulations or use at 2% to create
antibacterial creams, salves, rinses, soaps etc.
Hydrolyzed Silk
The addition of hydrolyzed silk amino acids to a cream, lotion or soap, gives the product a “silky”
feel. Add the silk during the water phase at a rate of about 1-6% in creams, or lotions and about 4-
10% in soaps.
Milk Powders
The nice thing about using milk in the powdered form (other than the fact that you can have it
around and not have to worry about it going bad before you use it), is that you can alter the
concentration of it and therefore make a fattier milk. The normal reconstitution rate for milk
powder is 4 T per cup of water. In soap, you may prefer to use 6-8 T of powder per cup water to
increase the creaminess of your milk.
In cold process soap, you will find it easier to reserve a small amount of your water from your
recipe and use that water to make a paste with the milk powder. Add the milk paste to your batch
at light trace. You can also make up the milk and use it in place of your water, however, it will need
to be chilled before combining with the lye.
In MP soap, you can make a paste with 1T of milk powder per pound of soap (mix with just enough
water to make it into a paste) and add it to the melted base. Stir well to incorporate.
Oxides and Ultramarines

These pigments are oil dispersible and therefore do not dissolve. They need to be mixed well with
an oil to prevent clumps of pigment in your finished product. Add evenly colored oil to your batch
and mix well. These pigments will settle to the bottom of your product if you use too much or if
your product is very thin in consistency so some trial and error may be necessary to use these
pigments in certain instances. These pigments tend to be on the earthy side and can be blended to
get complex muted colors.
Polysorbate 20
Use polysorbate 20 to emulsify oils & water at about 1:1 (may require slightly more to achieve a
clear solution). Mix fragrance /essential oils with P20 until you get a clear solution and then add to
batch. Since this may not be compatible with all essential oils and fragrance oils do a small test
first. Some fragrance oils may cloud. Great for body sprays, room and linen sprays etc.

Silicone Rubber Molds
Choosing Objects to Make Your Mold
Find smooth nonporous objects that are heavy enough
that they will not float to the top in the rubber. Hollow
objects will float up and should not be used. Porous
objects will allow the rubber to seep into the pores and
you will not have a smooth cavity. The objects used in
the pictured mold were a leaf shaped glass ashtray, a bar
of round soap and a big heavy sea shell (the sea shell
was first wrapped in saran wrap to prevent the rubber
from entering the cavity). Keep you eyes open when
you’re out shopping for little solid, heavy trinkets that
would make nice shaped soaps. Other soaps or candles
can be used too. You may be able to use something that
is hollow if you can fill it with sand and seal it in. Remember that you need to choose objects that
are uniform width from top to bottom or things that can be placed so that the widest part is rested
on the bottom of the tub. The object must be removable once the mold is hard so a wide part will
not fit back out through a narrow opening : ).
Making your Mold

Place the objects that you want a casting of in a basin type tub or wide container. Plastic works best
because it is flexible and will make it easy to remove your mold once it is hard. Use the smallest tub
that you can so you don’t waste a lot of compound in empty spaces. For example, arrange 6 bars
of soap in a tray leaving 1 inch around each bar. The objects must be heavy and sit flat on the
bottom of the tub or the rubber will seep under and lift up the object thereby sealing the object into
the mold rather than making a cavity in it’s shape.
Then mix 10 parts by weight of Part A with 1 part by weight of Part B (activator) in a container. Stir
thoroughly either by hand until a uniform light blue color results. A Plastic disposable stirrer will
work best. Do not overmix however as you will wind up with too many air bubbles. Once, properly
mixed, carefully pour the compound over the objects in your tray being careful not to move the
objects at all. It helps to hold the object in place as you pour the rubber around and over it until
you are sure it will not move. Allow 16 to 18 hours cure time.
Once hard, carefully remove the rubber mold from the tub or container. Then carefully remove the
objects from the bottom of the mold.
This compound has exceptional tear strength so it can withstand repeated flexing for part removal.
To prolong life of your molds, carefully clean them after each use and allow to dry properly. Keep
them out of direct sunlight and in room temperature.
You will need approximately 1 lb. of compound per 3 cavities. The 5 lb. size is good for about 12
cavities.

Why consider adding potpourri and air fresheners to your line?
If you are a professional soaper looking to enhance your line, a new business looking for
something easy to make and sell or just a hobbyist looking for a good craft for gift giving, potpourri
may be what you’re looking for.
Home Fragrance Products, including potpourri, rooms sprays, linen sprays, air freshener gels etc.
are becoming fast selling items and well known companies have placed great emphasis on these
new lines.
• These products are quick and easy to make.
• They don’t require expensive packaging
• They can be sold individually with a wide range of pricing or they can be added to gift sets/
baskets to fill them out
• Potpourri and freshener gels tend to attract the eye and nose drawing more people to your
displays/stores
• Potpourri is easily customized for the person it is meant for by varying the colors and fragrance
• It can be made with pure essential oils for an aromatherapy product or with high quality
fragrance oils
• It has no shelf life and can be made well in advance of a craft show or gift giving season

Index
We are not completely done indexing at this time. We’ll continue to work on setting up indexing
terms and complete the index in the near future! Thanks for downloading our book!
A
almond oil 12
aloe vera gel 52, 61
aloe vera oil 15, 18, 30, 50
anise essential oil 41
anti bacterial 16
anti fungal 16
apricot kernel oil 17, 18, 47
apricot oil 12
avocado oil 12, 16, 18, 41, 42, 47, 51, 59
azuki bean powder 26
B
basil 39
beeswax 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 22, 33, 42, 46, 50, 52, 53, 56, 58, 59, 60, 61
bentonite clay 39, 43
benzoin gum powder 17
borage oil 47
borax 17, 50, 52, 53
butter 11
cocoa 12, 17, 18, 30, 38, 40, 44, 46, 48
illipe 12, 15, 16, 52
kokum 16, 26
mango 16, 37, 40, 58
nutmeg 40
sal 16, 37, 40
shea 15, 16, 18, 27, 30, 40, 44, 45, 47, 53, 56, 57, 59
buttermilk 40, 43
C
calendula oil 57, 58, 59, 60
calendula petals 14, 15, 16, 30, 56, 60
calendula powder 48, 61
camelina oil 57, 60, 61
canola oil 28, 29, 30, 39, 43, 45
carrot oil 47
carrots 29
carrotseed essential oil 47
castor oil 26, 28, 30, 35, 36, 37, 42, 43, 44, 45, 57
chamomile essential oil 61
chamomile flowers 14, 16, 26, 60
chamomile powder 48, 58, 61
citric acid 15, 54
citronella java essential oil 27
clay
bentonite 39, 43
sea 51
white kaolin 60

clovebud essential oil 30
cocoa butter 11, 12, 17, 18, 30, 38, 40, 44, 46, 48
coconut oil 17, 18, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 50, 53, 57
comfrey root 39
comfrey root powder 16
cornstarch 58, 60, 61
cucumber floral water 26
cucumbers 45
D
dill weed 41
E
emu oil 12, 14, 18, 37, 52, 57
emulsifying wax 15, 54
essential oil
anise 41
carrotseed 47
chamomile 61
citronella java 27
clovebud 30
eucalyptus 18
eucalyptus citriodora 27
fennel 41
geranium 27
grapefruit 13
lavender 14, 15, 18, 48, 52, 57, 58, 60, 61
lemon 13
lemongrass 36
mandarin 13, 26, 60
myrrh 39
nutmeg 40
orange 13
peppermint 18, 42
roman chamomile 14, 48, 59
rose 14
rose bulgarian 48
rosemary 27, 42
sandalwood 39
spearmint 30
tea tree 15, 36, 42
vanilla 40
eucalyptus citriodora essential oil 27
eucalyptus essential oil 18
evening primrose oil 47
exfoliant 26
F
fennel essential oil 41
flax seed oil 31
floral water 52
cucumber 26
jasmine 52

orange 52
fractionated coconut oil 50
fragrance oil
almond 38
basil 26
bubble gum 27
cucumber 50
honey 38
neroli 30
peach 17
raspberry 17
vanilla 12
fullers earth 39
G
gel wax 20
geranium essential oil 27
glycerin 51, 52, 53, 56
glycerine 15
goats milk powder 15, 33, 40, 41, 61
goldenseal 56
grapefruit seed extract 41, 47, 50, 56
grapefuit essential oil 13
grapeseed oil 14, 34, 36, 53
gum
myhrr 56
H
healing soap 39
hempseed oil 14, 16
herb
arrowroot 60
azuki bean powder 26
basil 39
benzoin gum powder 17
calendula petals 14, 15, 16, 30, 56, 60
calendula powder 48, 61
chamomile flowers 14, 16, 26, 60
chamomile powder 48, 58, 61
comfrey root 16, 39
dill weed 41
goldenseal 56
lavender buds 15, 58, 60
lavender flowers 14, 60
lavender powder 61
lemon peel 13
neem leaves 16
neem powder 39
orange peel 13
peppermint leaves 42
rose petals 14, 60
rose powder 48
stinging nettles 16
tulsi 39
tumeric 39

honeycomb sheets 20
hydrolized silk amino acids 37
hydrosol 17, 50, 52
neroli 26
rose 52
I
illipe butter 12, 15, 16, 52
J
jojoba, MP 56 12
jojoba, MP56 58
jojoba oil 16, 18, 27, 37, 42, 47, 53, 54, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60
K
kokum butter 16, 26
kukui nut oil 47
L
lanolin 17, 52, 61
lavender buds 15, 58, 60
lavender essential oil 14, 15, 18, 48, 52, 57, 58, 60, 61
lavender flowers 14, 60
lavender powder 61
lecithin 52
lemon essential oil 13
lemon peel 13
lemongrass essential oil 36
M
mandarin essential oil 13, 26, 60
mango butter 11, 16, 37, 40, 58
meadowfoam oil 53
mica 11, 12, 26, 27, 50, 58, 60
milk
buttermilk 40, 43
goats 15, 33, 40, 41, 61
whole 38, 40
MP 56 12, 58
muslin bags 58
myhrr gum 56
myrrh essential oil 39
N
neem leaves 16
neem oil 16, 27, 37, 39
neem powder 39
neroli hydrosol 26
nutmeg butter 40

nutmeg essential oil 40
O
oatmeal
colloidal 46
coarse 51
fine 58
oat starch 60
oil
aloe vera 15, 18, 30, 50
apricot kernel 12, 17, 18, 47
avocado 16, 18, 41, 42, 47, 51, 59
avovado 12
borage 47
calendula 57, 58, 59, 60
camelina 57, 60, 61
canola 28, 29, 30, 39, 43, 45
carrot 47
castor 26, 28, 30, 35, 36, 37, 42, 43, 44, 45, 57
coconut 17, 18, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 50, 53, 57
emu 12, 14, 18, 37, 52, 57
evening primrose 47
flax seed 31
fractionated coconut 50
grapeseed 14, 34, 36, 53
hempseed 14, 16
jojoba 16, 18, 27, 37, 42, 47, 53, 54, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60
kukui nut 47
meadowfoam 53
neem 16, 27, 37, 39
olive
14, 15, 16, 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 50, 53, 56, 59
palm 26, 27, 30, 31, 32, 34, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 57
palm kernel 29, 42, 43, 48
peach kernel 12, 57
rice bran 52
rosehip 47
safflower 45
sesame 39
soybean 29, 35, 38
sunflower 26, 33, 34
sweet almond 12, 16, 17, 29, 30, 34, 36, 37, 43, 45, 47, 48, 56, 57, 59
virgin coconut 12, 52, 59, 61
wheatgerm 42, 47, 53, 59
olive oil
14, 15, 16, 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 50, 53, 56, 59
orange essential oil 13
orange peel 13
P
palm kernel oil 29, 42, 43, 48
palm oil 26, 27, 30, 31, 32, 34, 37, 38, 39, 42, 43, 44, 45, 47, 57
paraffin wax 20, 21, 22
peach kernel oil 12, 57
peppermint essential oil 18, 42

peppermint leaves 42
R
rice bran oil 52
roman chamomile essential oil 14, 48, 59
rose bulgarian essential oil 48
rose essential oil 14
rose geranium essential oil 11
rose petals 14, 60
rose powder 48
rosehip oil 47
rosemary essential oil 27, 42
rosemary oil extract 42
S
safflower oil 45
sal butter 16, 37, 40
sandalwood essential oil 39
sesame oil 39
shea buter 30
shea butter 11, 15, 16, 18, 27, 40, 44, 45, 47, 53, 56, 57, 59
silk amino acids 37
skin type
acne 36
baby 14
cracked 18
difficult 36
dry 11, 16, 17, 31
healing 39
maturing 48
moisturizing 12, 15, 33, 36, 44
rough 15
soap
shaving 43
sodium hydoxide 27, 30, 32, 33, 34, 43
sodium hydroxide 26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 57
sore muscles 18
soybean oil 29, 35, 38
spearmint essential oil 30
stearic acid 15, 54
stinging nettle 16
sunflower oil 26, 33, 34
sweet almond oil 12, 16, 29, 30, 34, 36, 37, 43, 45, 47, 48, 56, 57, 59
T
tallow 27, 28, 37
tea tree essential oil 15, 36, 42
tulsi 39
tumeric 39
V
vanilla essential oil 40

vanilla fragrance oil 12
virgin coconut oil 11, 12, 52, 61
virgrin coconut oil 59
vitamin E 250UI 59
vitamin E T-50 14, 26, 42, 47, 57, 60, 61
vitamin E T50 16
W
wax
bees 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 22, 33, 42, 46, 50, 52, 53, 56, 58, 59, 60, 61
emulsifying 15, 54
gel 20
honeycomb sheets 20
paraffin 20, 21, 22
wheatgerm oil 42, 47, 53, 59
white kaolin clay 60
wick
zinc core 20
Z
zinc core wick 20


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Lip Balms

Apricot-Orange Lip Gloss

Avocado Lip Balm

For the softest lips you’ve ever had!

.8 oz. Coconut or virgin coconut oil

Basic Lip Balm

From Nature With Love Page 101 http://www.FromNatureWithLove.com

6 tsp jojoba oil

Cocoa Vanilla Lip Gloss

Heavenly smelling and sweet tasting treat for your lips

16 teaspoons sweet almond or peach kernel oil

http://www.FromNatureWithLove.com Page 102 From Nature With Love

1 tsp. beeswax pellets

Emu Oil Lip Balm

1 oz. Emu Oil

Melt beeswax in microwave.

Stir in emu, almond, avocado, aloe and olive oils.

From Nature With Love Page 103 http://www.FromNatureWithLove.com

A personalized lip moisturizer and gloss

Healing Lip Gloss

Heals chapped lips & stays glossy

1/4 tsp meadowfoam oil

http://www.FromNatureWithLove.com Page 104 From Nature With Love

Hemp Oil Lip Balm

Honey Lip Balm

From Nature With Love Page 105 http://www.FromNatureWithLove.com

Following your basic balm recipe, here are specifics

2 oz. shea or other vegetable butter

Moisturizing Lip Balm

1 1/2 tsp Beeswax

http://www.FromNatureWithLove.com Page 106 From Nature With Love

Sherry’s Lip Balm Recipe

.4 oz white beeswax pellets

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Almond Oil Lotion

1/8 t borax powder

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Body & Feet Cream

1 tsp. Citric Acid

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Moisturizing Suntan Lotion

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A thick, easily absorbed body cream

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Makes about 4 oz.

Oil Combo for Eczema Sufferers

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1 oz Sweet almond oil

Peppermint Neroli Lotion

1/4 Cup grapeseed oil

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2.50 oz. Hemp Oil

Great Patchouli Scent Blend:

1.00 oz. Patchouli Essential Oil

2.50 oz. Coconut Fragrance Oil

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Skin Re-Vitalizing Mask

1 tsp Rose Clay

Dry Lavender 2tbsp

Take a warm bath before using this therapy.