The

BOOK
TOOL
 The
BOOK
TOOL L-LO
VER ’ S G UIDE TO OVER
200 HAN D TOOLS

O
A TO
 Writers
Phil Davy, Luke Edwardes-Evans,
Contents
Jo Behari, Matthew Jackson
Senior Editor Ruth O'Rourke-Jones PLAN YOUR WORK AREA 8 44
Editor Jamie Ambrose CHOOSING A TOOL BELT 10 THE TOOLS FOR
CHOOSING A TOOL BOX 12 CUTTING &
Project Art Editor Vicky Read
CHOOSING A TOOL SHED 14 CHOPPING
Managing Editor Dawn Henderson
Managing Art Editor Marianne Markham HISTORY OF CUTTING & CHOPPING 46
16 CHOOSING A SAW 48
Asset Management Emily Reid
THE TOOLS FOR STRUCTURE OF A HACKSAW 52
Jacket Designer Steven Marsden MEASURING &
USING A HACKSAW 54
Producer Rebecca Fallowfield MARKING
STRUCTURE OF A HANDSAW 56
Creative Technical Support
HISTORY OF MEASURING & MARKING 18 USING A HANDSAW 57
Sonia Charbonnier, Tom Morse
CHOOSING A MARKING TOOL 20 CHOOSING AN AXE 60
Photography John Spence
at MMS Marketing Services STRUCTURE OF A MORTISE GAUGE 22 STRUCTURE OF A SPLITTING AXE 64
USING A MORTISE GAUGE 24 USING A SPLITTING AXE 66
Illustrator Andrew Torrens
CHOOSING A MEASURE 26 CHOOSING A KNIFE 70
Art Director Maxine Pedliham
CHOOSING A CALIPER OR DIVIDER 30 STRUCTURE OF A UTILITY KNIFE 72
Publishing Director Mary-Clare Jerram
STRUCTURE OF A DIGITAL CALIPER 32 USING A UTILITY KNIFE 74
First published in Great Britain in 2018 USING A DIGITAL CALIPER 33 CHOOSING A SCYTHE OR SICKLE 76
by Dorling Kindersley Limited CHOOSING A SQUARE 34 STRUCTURE OF AN ENGLISH SCYTHE 80
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL
STRUCTURE OF A USING AN ENGLISH SCYTHE 81
Copyright © 2018 Dorling Kindersley Limited COMBINATION SQUARE 36 CHOOSING SHEARS 84
A Penguin Random House Company
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 USING A COMBINATION SQUARE 38 STRUCTURE OF TOPIARY SHEARS 86
001–305962–May/2018
CHOOSING A LEVEL 40 USING TOPIARY SHEARS 87
All rights reserved. STRUCTURE OF A SPIRIT LEVEL 42 CHOOSING A PRUNER OR LOPPER 88
No part of this publication may be reproduced,
stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, USING A SPIRIT LEVEL 43 STRUCTURE OF BYPASS SECATEURS 92
or transmitted, in any form, or by any means
(electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, USING BYPASS SECATEURS 94
or otherwise), without the prior written permission
of the copyright owner. MAINTAIN TOOLS FOR
CUTTING AND CHOPPING 96
A CIP catalogue record for this book
is available from the British Library.
ISBN: 978-0-2413-0211-8

Printed and bound in China

A WORLD OF IDEAS:
SEE ALL THERE IS TO KNOW
www.dk.com
 98 166 218
THE TOOLS FOR THE TOOLS FOR THE TOOLS FOR
FIXING & FASTENING DIGGING & FINISHING &
GROUNDWORK DECORATING
HISTORY OF FIXING & FASTENING 100
CHOOSING A SCREWDRIVER 102 HISTORY OF DIGGING HISTORY OF FINISHING
& GROUNDWORK 168 & DECORATING 220
STRUCTURE OF A RATCHET
SCREWDRIVER 104 CHOOSING A SHOVEL OR SPADE 170 CHOOSING ABRASIVES AND
STRUCTURE OF A SPADE 172 SANDING BLOCKS 222
USING A RATCHET SCREWDRIVER 106
USING A SPADE 173 USING A SANDING BLOCK 224
CHOOSING A WRENCH 110
CHOOSING A POST-HOLE DIGGER 174 CHOOSING A PAINTBRUSH 226
STRUCTURE OF A TORQUE WRENCH 114
CHOOSING A HOE OR CULTIVATOR 176 STRUCTURE OF A PAINTBRUSH 228
USING A TORQUE WRENCH 116
STRUCTURE OF A HOE 180 USING A PAINTBRUSH 229
CHOOSING A DRILL AND DRILL BIT 118
USING A HOE 181 CHOOSING A ROLLER 230
STRUCTURE OF A COMBI DRILL 122
CHOOSING A TROWEL, FORK, STRUCTURE OF A ROLLER 232
USING A COMBI DRILL 124
OR DIBBER 182 USING A ROLLER 233
CHOOSING A VICE 126
STRUCTURE OF A TROWEL 184 CHOOSING WALLPAPERING TOOLS 236
STRUCTURE OF A MECHANICS VICE 128
USING A TROWEL 185 CHOOSING TILING TOOLS 238
USING A MECHANICS VICE 129
MAINTAIN TOOLS FOR CHOOSING A CABINET SCRAPER 240
CHOOSING A CLAMP 130 DIGGING AND GROUNDWORK 188 MAINTAIN TOOLS FOR
CHOOSING PINCERS OR PLIERS 134 FINISHING AND DECORATING 244
STRUCTURE OF
COMBINATION PLIERS 136 190
INDEX 246
USING COMBINATION PLIERS 138
THE TOOLS FOR
SHAPING & ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 252
MAINTAIN TOOLS FOR
FIXING AND FASTENING 140 SHARPENING
HISTORY OF SHAPING
142 & SHARPENING 192
THE TOOLS FOR CHOOSING A CHISEL 194
STRIKING & STRUCTURE OF A MORTISE CHISEL 196
BREAKING USING A MORTISE CHISEL 198
CHOOSING A PLANE 200
HISTORY OF STRIKING & BREAKING 144
STRUCTURE OF A JACK PLANE 202
CHOOSING A HAMMER 146
USING A JACK PLANE 204
STRUCTURE OF A CLAW HAMMER 150
CHOOSING A FILE OR RASP 208
USING A CLAW HAMMER 152
CHOOSING A GOUGE
CHOOSING PICKS AND MATTOCKS 156 OR SPOKESHAVE 210
STRUCTURE OF A PICKAXE 158 CHOOSING A SHARPENING STONE 212
USING A PICKAXE 159 MAINTAIN TOOLS FOR
CHOOSING A WRECKING BAR 160 SHAPING AND SHARPENING 216
MAINTAIN TOOLS FOR
STRIKING AND BREAKING 164
 TOOL BOOK
THE

Foreword
BY NICK OFFERMAN

mystical object, like a wand, a staff, or a ring.

And now that I think about it, perhaps my
infatuation with “tools” and “wizardry” are
not so unrelated after all.

As a youth in rural Illinois (the American state that

contains Chicago and corn, among other things),
much of my spare time was spent learning to gainfully
employ many of the implements represented in this
magnificent catalogue you are about to read. My
many teachers included my mother and my father,
along with their own siblings and parents, most of
whom maintained a family farm operation, raising
pigs, soya beans, and corn. Every household in the
family cultivated a robust garden and attractive yard
(some more so than others, as in any family) whilst
perennially investing in the beauty and tidiness of
Photo Emily Shur
their houses and outbuildings.

Tools. Yes! These extremely practical humans were always

The mere mention of the word thrills my blood, in the process of getting good work done, and
much as I have been given to understand the words that usually with tools. Their sphere of influence
“chocolate”, or “gin”, or “fireman” can sometimes was not limited to their yards, either, because
titillate others. Another similarly rousing but unrelated neighbours in our community would readily share
term for me is “wizardry”. Like many, I have always tools, as well as their kind attentions and the labour
been strongly attracted to the magicks described in of their hands. In my 30 or so years living as an
stories of enchantment; the eldritch knowledge and “adult” I have inhabited and visited a pretty full
“old ways” passed down over generations. I am a spectrum of living arrangements, from abject poverty
complete sucker for the sorts of charms and glamours (working in theatre) to the lap of luxury (working in
to be found in your Chronicles of Narnia, your television), and I can attest from my experience that
Lord of the Rings, your Dungeons & Dragons, the homes in which health and love and economy
and your Harry Potters, particularly those most readily flourished were the ones that knew the
containing the stripe of conjuring that requires a use of some of the noble equipment in this here
book. I daresay that the older I grow, the more the Think about that. I know that he learned the ways of
wrenches and the hammers begin to resemble the shovel from his dad, as well as other workers in
the tackle of wizards. the neighbourhood from his own youth, but where
did his dad get it? And what of the myriad other tools
I think that had anyone suggested to me in my in which he schooled me, not to mention the other
teenage years that my love of tools might be remotely methods I gleaned from my aunts and uncles? It
comparable to my reverence for sorcery, I would stands to reason that my very own erudition in the art
have muttered something terribly pithy from the of the hole can be traced ancestrally all the way back
film Highlander under my breath, perhaps the to the first inventor of the shovel. Since we humorously
epic “It’s better to burn out than to fade away…”, cognizant monkeys first began to swing a stone at the
to which someone might have said “isn’t that a Neil end of a stick, we have been quietly and confidently
Young lyric?”, to which I would have defiantly stated passing along our collective knowledge to the next
“You don’t know dick”, and lurched off in a very generation, again and again over the millennia, each
Emilio Estevez fashion to admire my cassette tapes. apprentice acquiring an eventual mastery, occasionally
In my crotchety middle age, however, I am finding adding slight improvements, until we humans can
it easier to comprehend the reason that I find an now print a book like this one, full of colours and
adze every bit as compelling as Gandalf’s magic handsomely worded pictures, containing among its
sword Glamdring. It’s because both carry the deep juicy offerings categories of tools like “Digging and
wisdom of true handcraft. Through the painstaking Groundwork” and “Striking and Breaking”. It’s
centuries of trial and error on the part of man and downright Homeric.
womankind (or elves, in the case of the sword), these
clever sticks have been imbued with the cumulative, The tools in this book are not those of the specialist.
arcane intelligence of the generations of hands that It is unlikely that you will build a serviceable rocket
perfected their forms, and thereby, their uses. ship or a nickelodeon with the stuff in here. On
the contrary, the authors have chosen to honour the
One of my most poignant brand of tool memories venerable tools of the generalist. What you can
is when my dad would take me out in the yard create with these charismatic utensils is a limitless
to help him plant trees, or do anything with a sense of adventure and accomplishment – a life rife
shovel or a spade. The honest mastery with which with practical industry. The list does not necessarily
he brandished said item to sculpt an accurate and contain the items that spring to mind when one
practical hole out of the gravelly soil might just as considers creating “art”, as it were, but (in my book)
easily have been found inhabiting a virtuoso soloist’s they are precisely the devices necessary for the art
bow, as she sawed away on some Tchaikovsky (Valse of living well, and I think that is about as magical
Sentimentale please and thank you). To mine, a as it can get.
child’s perception, his skills could easily be accused
of witchcraft, especially when the spell did not end at
the digging. My dear dad was not only accomplishing
his task of landscaping, he was also teaching me to
use the spade. To this day, when I grip a shovel’s staff
in my hands and place my foot upon the shoulder of
the blade in preparation for its initial plunge into the
ground, my dad is there with me, his hands upon
mine, his gentle tutelage in my ears.
 PLAN YOUR

Work Area
Introduction

Whether you’re fixing a bike, decorating the house,

or making furniture you need somewhere to work.
Depending on space and budget this could be
a folding workbench that stores in a cupboard, or
a fully equipped workshop in a shed. For occasional
jobs a temporary solution may do, but for long-term
projects a more permanent work area is necessary.

Work surface
For many tasks a solid work surface makes a big difference.
A workbench doesn’t need to be huge, but it should be as solid
as possible. You can fit a vice to the front or one end for working
with timber, metals, or other materials. A portable Workmate or
similar bench is a cheaper, lightweight alternative and can be
used outdoors or moved from one room to another.

Tool storage
Tools should be stored so that you can find them easily. Displaying
them on a wall or in a dedicated cupboard means you can spot if
a tool is missing and is safer than riffling through a toolbox. Keeping
a work area tidy and well organized helps you work efficiently.
008 Heat, light, and power
009 For lighting and mains sockets, you will need a power supply,
which should be installed by a qualified electrician. You may also
need heating as an unheated work area in cold weather can be
miserable. Think about the type of heating: a mobile gas heater
is efficient, but a naked flame in a dusty workshop is not wise.
An electric heater may be safer but costly to warm a large space.

Environment
Some hand tools, such as hammers, can be noisy in use. For
frequent work, consider insulating a workshop or restricting work
times: think about the neighbours! Fire safety is a must, especially
if storing flammable materials. Fire extinguishers are inexpensive,
but make sure you get the correct type to suit the situation.

FOCUS ON…
Security
Keeping your tools safe should be a priority. Don’t rely on a flimsy
padlock on the shed door. Thieves will aim for the easiest method
of breaking and entering, so think about how you would gain entry
to your workshop if you lost the keys. Adding internal shutters to
windows, security bars across doors, and battery-operated alarms Woodworkers often store tools in purpose-made
can help. Track tools by using a security-marking kit to label them cabinets with hinged doors. This a good use of wall
invisibly with your postcode – it will show up under ultraviolet light. space and protects the contents from workshop dust.
Fitting cabinet locks or padlocks makes tools more
secure, and keeps them out of the reach of children.
 Far left: In a
garage or shed
hang tools on
hooks or pegs above
a bench. This makes
them easy to reach
and you can spot
if a tool is missing.

Left: Decorating
means turning
a room into a
temporary work
area. Empty the
space so you have
clear access and
can move a pasting
table or stepladder
around as needed.

FOCUS ON…
Safety
Even hand tools can be hazardous if abused or maintained poorly.
For example, a blunt chisel is arguably more risky than a sharp
one as it’s more likely to slip. Check the condition of your tools
regularly and replace any that are damaged and beyond repair.
Make sure that you wear suitable personal protective equipment
and that this is stored carefully when not in use. Label drawers
or cupboards so you know just where to find the relevant item.

A simple first aid kit should

include plasters, eyewash,
and dressings. It’s not
necessary to have a large,
comprehensive box as
individual items can be
replaced if they’re used
or become out of date.

Work gloves prevent splinters

and cuts when handling
rough-sawn timber or heavy,
metal items. Heavy leather
or fabric gloves can be
cumbersome – lighter
vinyl gloves are easier to
wear and still give protection.

Eye protection is vital.

Clear safety glasses are
comfortable and some may
be worn over spectacles. If
welding, you’ll need proper
full-face protection.
 CHOOSING A

Tool Belt Spanners

If you’re working from a ladder it can be frustrating when you should be
Introduction

stored together
don’t have the right tools to hand. To overcome this, wear a tool when using
several sizes.
belt and pouch around your waist so you don’t need to climb up
and down to fetch an item you’ve forgotten. Outer pockets are
handy for storing small items like nails or screws.

010
011

Claw hammer
is too big for
pockets – store in
its own loop.

Tool loop is
good for storing
large items, but
check they won’t
fall through.
 FOCUS ON…
s
Pockets & Holster
“ DON’T O V E R LO A D
BELT W I TH TO O LS A S THIS CO U L D
YOUR
Tool belts are traditionally made from sturdy leather, with pockets
stitched and riveted. Durable fabric belts offer a similar number
TI R I N G T O WEA R O V E R
BECOME of pockets and hoops, sometimes detachable, with polypropylene
webbing belts. Belts have steel or plastic buckles and are adjustable
A LONG PE R I O D
” for size. Shaped holsters for bulkier tools are usually steel. When
buying, check the fit and consider how many tools you will need.
Too many pockets could tempt you to load up the belt unnecessarily.
Retractable tape
measure has clip
on back designed Pozi screwdriver – at
to hook over belt. least one – plus slotted
pattern for older screws,
are essential tools.

Pliers such
as long nose
and combination
will cover many
DIY tasks.

Outer pocket
is good for
storing screws
and nails.
 CHOOSING A

Tool Box
When there is no dedicated work space it makes
Introduction

sense to keep hand tools in a tool box. This means

items can be stowed in a cupboard, moved easily
from one job to another, or transported in the back
of a car. Tool boxes are usually heavy duty and
come in a variety of sizes and styles. Lids are often
hinged and good boxes allow a padlock to be fitted.

Steel tool box

A steel box is a sturdy option, ideal for bike maintenance or
mechanic’s tools. Cantilevered versions reveal lower compartments
as the top of the box opens outwards. A full-length handle makes
them easy to carry, but steel boxes tend to be heavier than plastic
ones. Filled with tools, they are quite weighty. It’s a good idea to
line compartments with anti-slip matting or bubblewrap to protect
valuable tools. If keeping a steel tool box in an unheated area check
the contents regularly. Condensation will lead to rusting of metal
Measuring and
tools, so you may want to treat these with an anti-corrosive spray. marking tools
should be stored
Plastic tool box on soft, anti-slip
A plastic tool box will not rust and is better at protecting precision
012 marking and measuring tools, as well as metal woodworking tools.
matting cut to fit
compartments.
013 Some lightweight plastic models are more susceptible to damage.
Heavy-duty boxes (made from structural foam) may have rubber
seals around the lid, making them water resistant.

Tool bags
The traditional tool bag is made from canvas with reinforced rope
handles and brass eyelets around the rim to secure the contents.
These have been largely replaced by reinforced, synthetic fabric
bags with numerous internal and external pockets.

Steel tool box

Small plastic tool boxes are ideal Tape measures
for hobbyist tools. Larger, more are used frequently and
durable ones suit heavier tools should be readily accessible
and can usually be padlocked. when you open the lid.
 Fixings and other loose
items should be placed
Mallet and other heavy in clear plastic bags
tools should be placed or smaller boxes.
at the bottom of the box
in the largest area.

Sanding block
Hammers are is neatly packed
stored with heavier to make most of
kit at base of box. available space.
 CHOOSING A

Tool Shed 3
Introduction

A shed is a safe place to store your tools but it can

also be where you carry out DIY, bike maintenance,
or woodwork. A suitable shed should be positioned
on a firm, level surface, so you may need to do
some preparation work. Start by laying paving
slabs to create a base, or use concrete, which is more
work but will be more solid and last indefinitely.
2
Metal shed
Made from a series of corrugated steel panels bolted or clipped
together, this type of shed is suitable for garden tools, stepladders,
and large items such as folding benches or sawhorses. The steel
is normally galvanized and pre-painted, making it fire and rot
resistant. Arguably more durable than timber, metal sheds are
virtually maintenance-free, with no roofing felt to replace or
panels that require painting. Roof panels are also corrugated for
strength. A potential problem with such sheds is condensation,
which can lead to rusting of tools if not kept in check. Metal
sheds are unlikely to have windows, though this makes them
secure. Doors may be sliding or hinged and can be padlocked.

014 Timber shed

015 Traditional sheds are built from softwood, which should be treated
with preservative to prevent rot and insect attack. Consisting of
timber sections bolted together, this framework is covered in
shiplap or tongue-and-groove boards nailed horizontally. Roofs
are pitched to shed rain and snow. Once fixed to the walls, the
roof material is covered in mineral felt and nailed in place.
Flooring can be chipboard or plywood. Windows may be glass
or clear plastic and are likely to be fixed in budget sheds. The
outside should be maintained with an exterior wood finish or
paint. A timber shed is easy to insulate and walls can be lined
with MDF or plywood. With lighting and electrical sockets this
can provide an excellent small workshop.

1
A traditional 1 Work platform 2 Tool belt 3 Claw
timber shed provides hammers 4 Shelving for small tools
a secure work area 5 Clamps 6 Saw horses and saws
to pursue interests, 7 Heavy outdoor tools on floor
like bike maintenance, 8 Lighter garden tools on hooks
woodwork, DIY,
and gardening.
 8
6

Folding saw horse

is lightweight and
can be hung on wall. 5
4

Portable work
bench has folding
legs and adjustable
jaws, making it
ideal for DIY jobs.

7
 Carpenters pencil Marking knife
Mortise gauge

Propeller pencil
Marking Tools

Scriber Chalk line

H E T O O L S
T for
Measuring & Marking
From simple scribers and rulers to more complex digital levels
and calipers, accurate measuring and marking tools are
essential to getting your project off to a good start.

Measuring Tools
Folding rule

String line

Laser measure Feeler gauge Tape measure Steel rule

 Digital caliper

Dial caliper Divider Internal spring calipers External spring calipers

Trammel points
Calipers and Dividers

Squares

Engineers Combination
square Try square Mitre square square

Levels and Bevels

Post level Pocket level Sliding bevel Plumb line

Spirit level Digital level

 HISTORY OF

Measuring & Marking

FIRST CHALK LINE MEASURING RODS
c.3000 BCE

c.2650 BCE
Ancient Egyptian builders used an early form Copper-alloy bars were
TURKEY
of the chalk line. A cord, coated with wet red or used as measuring rods in
yellow ochre, was held taut between two points Mesopotamia. In 1916, a
and then snapped onto a surface to leave a well-preserved, demarcated
SYRIA Mesopotamia
straight line. This technique is still used in bar was found at excavations at
modern construction today, with chalk used Nippur (present-day Iraq). It is IRAQ
instead of ochre. thought to be a Sumerian cubit,
Cords on modern equal to around 51.85cm (20.4in).
tools are coated Cubits varied across the Middle
in chalk.
East. The Egyptian
royal cubit of around
SAUDI ARABIA
the same period was
52.3cm (20.6in).
Chalk line

EARLY PLUMB LINE

c.2600 BCE

Buildings such as the Great Pyramid at Giza led 2.3 “MAN IS THE
MEASURE OF
MILLION
to the development of levels, including an early
plumb line to check walls were vertical. The tool
was E-shaped and had a weighted line suspended blocks were used in
ALL THINGS.”
from the upper edge of the “E”. The tool was held the building of the P R O TA G O R A S
against the wall to check that the string touched Great Pyramid of Giza.
481–411 BCE
the lower outside edge of the E shape.

EGYPTIAN A-FRAME LEVEL FIRST SQUARE

c.1290 BCE
c.2600 BCE

Egyptians used an A-frame tool to check horizontal The square was also developed in ancient
levels. The frame was set on the surface to Plumb line hangs Egypt and it may have been used it to cut stone
be checked and a plumb line was from apex of accurately for building temples, pyramids, and
frame.
suspended from the centre. This other monuments. Two pieces of wood were joined
method was still being used Weight at a right angle, sometimes with a diagonal rod
attached to
across Europe well into the end of cord. acting as a brace. Such artefacts have been
19th century. discovered in tombs such as that of an artisan
named Sennedjem, at Deir el-Medina, Egypt.

A-frame
 EGYPTIAN RULERS

c.1070 BCE
THE YARD The Egyptians used various rulers, from ceremonial stone cubit-rods
found in temples to wooden rulers used by carpenters. The standard
1305 – In England,
Edward I defined the yard was a royal cubit, defined as seven palm widths measured across
as the distance from the fingers, totalling roughly 52.3cm (20.6in). Egyptian masons
the tip of his nose used wooden rulers with a bevelled edge.
to his outstretched thumb:

0.9M (3FT)
Ancient Egyptian ruler

BASIC DIVIDERS AND CALIPERS MEDIEVAL DIVIDERS

c.600 BCE

c.500–1500
Dividers – many similar to modern compasses – and calipers were By the Middle Ages, the caliper
used by both the ancient Greeks and Romans; as ancient calipers was used for woodwork, but huge
were wooden, however, most have not survived. One rare example from dividers were used by architects
the 7th century bce, with one fixed and one movable jaw, was discovered planning large stone constructions,
during the excavation of a Greek shipwreck off the coast of Tuscany. such as cathedrals. These tools
were often half a man’s height!
Roman dividers had
curved or straight legs.

Divider

RENAISSANCE DIVIDER
1452–1519

Leonardo da Vinci refined the

“WHEN YOU CAN MEASURE WHAT
divider by adding a knuckle-joint YOU ARE SPEAKING ABOUT, AND
hinge to increase the instrument’s EXPRESS IT IN NUMBERS, YOU
rigidity. His notes include a
compass with interchangeable KNOW SOMETHING ABOUT IT.”
points, including a clamp for L O R D K E LV I N
graphite or chalk, and a beam 1824–1907
compass with a screw adjustment
used to draw large circles.

BEVEL SQUARE
1600s

Leonardo wanted to make

Adjustable bevel squares were first
EARLY
SPIRIT
the divider more stable
when the legs were open used to measure and create angles
by increasing the contact

LEVELS
other than 90 degrees during the
area of the hinge points.
mid-17th century. Some of these
were fixed to commonly used angles consisted of a sealed glass
such as 45 degrees, while the tube containing alcohol and an
angle bevel could be adjusted air bubble. Before being used as
surveying instruments, they
to any angle desired.
were used on telescopes.
Leonardo’s divider
 CHOOSING A

Marking Tool
Measuring & Marking

Accurate marking out is a basic principle when working with wood,

metal, plastic, or any other surface. Without dependable tools
you cannot achieve accuracy later on in a project. Marking
tools should be sturdy and made from quality materials,
rather than flimsy and unreliable. Simple
is often better than complex.

il
penc
ling
pel
Pro

r
ibe
Scr

020
021

uge
tise ga
Mor
 nife
ingk
M ark

“ M A R K IN G T O O L S S HO U L D B E S T U R D Y A N D
MADE FROM QU AL IT Y M AT E R IA LS
”
il
penc
ters
pen
Car
Scriber Carpenters Pencil
☛☛What it is Hardened steel point ☛☛What it is A rectangular wood body
at the end of a slim handle. May be with graphite core. Sturdier than standard
single- or double-ended. pencils and unlikely to break.
☛☛Use it for Mainly scoring surfaces ☛☛Use it for Approximate marking of
of metal prior to cutting or machining. timber and other materials. Not really
Can also be used on other materials. fine enough for general woodwork.
☛☛How to use Run it along a steel ☛☛How to use Sharpen to a chisel point
rule or an engineer’s square for accurate with a knife and use like an ordinary

“
marking, including at 90 degrees. standard pencil.
SKI LLE D WO R K R EL IES ☛☛Look for A precision-engineered ☛☛Look for Interchangeable coloured
ON AC C U R ATE tip and check that the grip is non-slip. leads in some plastic versions, which
work like propelling pencils.

MARKIN G O U T
” Marking Knife
☛☛What it is A hardwood or metal
Mortise Gauge
☛☛What it is Twin steel pins that create
handle with skewed steel blade, ground parallel lines in wood. Hardwood stock
to bevel on one side. slides along stem, locking with a screw.
☛☛Use it for Ensuring clean lines on ☛☛Use it for Marking exact position of
planed timber by severing wood fibres, mortises parallel to the edge of planed
especially if marking joints before sawing. timber. Also for marking matching tenons.
☛☛How to use Hold and pull the flat ☛☛How to use Set pins to chisel width
side of the blade against a steel rule or and overall distance from stock with steel
try square when marking a line. rule. Hold against wood and push tool.
☛☛Look for The bevel on left or right ☛☛Look for Flush brass strips set into
side of blade to suit user. Japanese tools the face of the stock that reduce wear
are made of laminated steel. and increase the life of the tool.

Propelling Pencil Chalk Line

☛☛What it is A lead or graphite core ☛☛What it is A long, retractable string
with mechanical jaws that propel it contained within a metal or plastic box
through the outer casing as the tip wears. filled with coloured chalk.
☛☛Use it for Marking wood and other ☛☛Use it for Marking a long, straight
materials. With consistent point size, cutting line on rough-sawn timber,
it is sturdier than a common HB pencil particularly where the edge is uneven.
ine
lk l ☛☛How to use Activated by pressing ☛☛How to use Pull out the string and
Cha thumb button at the opposite end. The hook clip over timber end. Lift string taut
lead can be retracted to prevent breakage. and snap it against surface to create a line.
☛☛Look for New refills that are correct ☛☛Look for Easy string-rewind action
diameter and hardness grade. A pocket and a self-sealing grommet for cleaner
clip and eraser tip are useful. refilling with chalk.
 Twin pins for
marking mortise.
Brass thumbscrew
locks sliding pin and
End pin is fixed,
stock position on stem.
inner one adjusts.
Measuring & Marking

Pins, angled
top view
SIDE VIEW

Hardwood stock
with flat face that
runs against timber.

Twin brass strips

inlaid into face of
022 stock to reduce wear.

023 Fixed brass section

screwed into channel
cut in stem.
TOP VIEW

Knurled edge
Thumbscrew, on thumbscrew to
angled side view aid ease of use.
 Brass button
UC TURE OF
screwed to end
of sliding STR A

Mortise Gauge
brass strip.

Pin adjusts
by sliding button. A mortise gauge is traditionally made of
rosewood or a similar dense hardwood, with
brass facings and adjusters, so it is one of the
most attractive hand tools. Although it may have
a very specialized function, it would be difficult
to manage without it if you’re doing a job that
involves mortise and tenon joints.

FOCUS ON…
Gauge Types
Narrow stem
is made from
hardwood.
Both marking and mortise gauges have tiny pins that scribe fine
lines along wood. Although visually similar, the cutting gauge
uses a small knife blade instead. This is normally sharpened
to a V-point. All three gauges are used in the same way.

Adjustable brass
section slides along
captive channel.

Mortise gauge Two pins for marking mortise with

parallel lines, usually up to 80mm (3in) from stock.

Channel shaped
so brass section Marking gauge Single fixed pin to mark line parallel
doesn’t fall out. to edge. Usually up to 180mm (7in) from stock.

“ TO PROT ECT FR O M M O I S TUR E

AND PRE V EN T STO CK S TI C K IN G ,
STORE GA U G ES IN P L A STIC BAG S
” Cutting gauge Small, pointed blade wedged into stem
for marking a line across, rather than with the grain.
 USING A

Mortise Gauge
Measuring & Marking

A more sophisticated version of a marking gauge (which has just a single pin), this tool is
used specifically when setting out the position of a mortise, or rectangular hole, in timber.
Twin pins are adjusted to the exact chisel width required, and the stock is then set at the
selected distance from the timber’s edge.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Check the dimensions Make sure that
the timber is planed to the correct width and
thickness before using the gauge.
☛☛Choose the chisel Select the chisel (mortise
or firmer) closest to the finished mortise size and
set the gauge accordingly.

024
025

2 Lock the stock

Use a steel rule to measure
the stock distance. This
will give you the precise
dimension of the mortise

1
from the edge of the timber.
Set the gauge Lock the stock using its
Holding the chisel against the gauge, thumbscrew and check
adjust the sliding pin so that both pins the setting against the rule.
just nip the outside of the blade. Lock this
setting with the thumbscrew on the stock or Rotate the
adjuster on the stem. Recheck the setting thumbscrew to
against the chisel. lock the stock.
FOCUS ON…
Scoring Action Sharp pin
Gauge is rotated so
pin sits at an angle.
The pins of a mortise gauge are incredibly sharp and concentrates
pressure to
score the surface of wood with minimal pressure. This score wood.
means that the wood is marked clearly but not split Surface of wood
and damaged. The gauge is rotated so it rests on is lightly scored
but not split.
the wood with little weight behind it. As the gauge
is pushed along, the pin concentrates the pressure to
score the surface lightly. This only works for marking
along the grain, not across it.

4 Shade the area

Once the parallel lines have been
marked out, square off the ends with
a square or steel rule. Then mark out the
area to be cut away between the parallel
lines. Cross-hatching with a carpenters
pencil works well.

3 Make your mark

With the stock held firmly against the face
side of the timber, apply downward pressure
and pull or push the gauge gently away from you.
Both pins should just lightly score the surface,
After you finish
☛☛Mark again Mark out matching tenons
without readjusting the mortise gauge pins.
☛☛Cut the mortise Use a mortise or firmer
chisel to chop out the mortise from both sides
rather than dig too deeply. of timber with the appropriate mallet.
 CHOOSING A

Measure
Measuring & Marking

Whether you are marking out the boundary for a new

workshop or checking the tiniest clearance at a lathe,
the correct measuring tool is crucial. You may
be working in fractions of a millimetre or your
project may span several metres, but without
precise measurements you will struggle
to achieve accurate work.

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 “ MIX
D O N ’T B E T E M P T E D T O
ME T RIC A N D IMP E RIA L
ME A S U RE ME N T S O N T HE
SAME PROJECT
”
Steel Rule Laser Measure
easu
re ☛☛What it is A sturdier version of ☛☛What it is Battery-powered electronic
a school ruler, usually made of stainless device, with digital display, that uses
er m
Las steel to prevent corrosion. a laser to measure accurate distance.
☛☛Use it for Small measurements and ☛☛Use it for Measuring rooms and
layout work. Often metric on one side, buildings; used mainly for indoor
imperial on reverse. measures or in poor light conditions.
☛☛How to use Hold down firmly, then ☛☛How to use Place device against
use it as a guide for drawing lines with wall, switch on and read display. Some
a pencil or marking knife. models calculate areas and volumes.
☛☛Look for Lengths of 150mm and ☛☛Look for Models with both metric
300mm (6in and 12in), clear graduations and imperial displays, good battery life,
and a brushed finish for easier reading. and a protective bag or case.

Folding Rule String Line

☛☛What it is Hinged boxwood or plastic ☛☛What it is Tough, weatherproof cord
ruler with 10 sections. Extends to 1m or up to 100mm (4in) long, usually wound
2m (3–6.5 ft), folds flat for storage. around a plastic spool for storage.
☛☛Use it for Building projects where ☛☛Use it for Setting out reference lines
a measuring tape is too flexible. Useful over a distance for brickwork, walling, or
for confined openings such as doorways. fencing work.
☛☛How to use Unfold as many sections ☛☛How to use Tie one end around a nail
as necessary and measure from the or pin placed in ground. Undo line and
square end of tool. secure tautly at far end with another nail.
☛☛Look for Rigidity when opened. ☛☛Look for Bright-coloured lines, which
Both metric and imperial graduations are easier to work with. Cut off frayed
are useful. ends when necessary.

Tape Measure Feeler Gauge

☛☛What it is Flexible steel blade from ☛☛What it is Set of extremely thin,
2m to 10m (6.5–33ft) overall length, hardened steel blades of precise
contained in metal or plastic case. thickness, each marked with size.
☛☛Use it for General measuring over ☛☛Use it for Making adjustments to
distance. Longer tapes have wider car, motorbike, and petrol lawnmower
blades for better rigidity. engines. Blades fold into case for storage.
☛☛How to use Clip the end hook to ☛☛How to use Insert the tapered end
Feeler gauge edge of object, or hold against wall or of blade into gap. Correct size is reached
framework for internal measurements. when blade contacts both surfaces.
☛☛Look for A thumb button to lock the ☛☛Look for Check whether you need
blade open, a belt clip, and recoil action metric or imperial gauge sizes, although
that is not too fierce. combination sets are available.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

Y
AS
“ IT IS

C E RTA IN
N O T W R ON G TO DO

P O O R A N D S IM P L E M E N

A R E WO N T T O S AY, W HO TELL US

WE MU ST M A RK S E VE N T IME S
AND CUT ON C E .
BENVENUTO CELLINI
”
 CHOOSING A

Caliper or
Measuring & Marking

Divider Dial
calip
er

It is tricky to measure external diameters of

cylinders or internal diameters of bowls accurately
using standard rules or tape measures. Mechanical
calipers have adjustable legs and are used
particularly by woodturners. Dial and digital
calipers are tools used more in engineering
tasks that give precise dimensions via their
relevant displays.

030 er
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“ S H AR P P O INT S
a l sp liper
r n ca D IV ID E R S A N D C O M PA S S E S HAV E
Inte
S O TA K E
CA R E W HE N HA N D L IN G T HE M
”
 Dial Caliper Spring Calipers
☛☛What it is Stainless-steel or plastic ☛☛What it is Steel legs with shaped
measuring tool. The dial slides along feet, which are adjusted via a threaded
a graduated beam. rod and thumbwheel.
☛☛Use it for Obtaining internal and ☛☛Use it for Checking internal or
external dimensions where precision is external diameters when turning bowls
vital – essential in engineering projects. or spindles on a woodturning lathe.
☛☛How to use With the jaws closed, ☛☛How to use Adjust the thumbwheel
check the needle is at zero. Set the jaws until the inside (or outside) legs touch
to contact both surfaces; read the measure. both surfaces.
☛☛Look for Smooth rack-and-pinion ☛☛Look for Models that check both
action and zero-dial calibration. internal and external dimensions.

Digital Caliper Trammel Heads

☛☛What it is Stainless-steel or plastic ☛☛What it is Pair of steel points that
tool, with a battery-operated digital are clamped to a wooden batten to scribe
display metric and/or imperial readout. arcs or measure diagonals.
☛☛Use it for Obtaining internal ☛☛Use it for Making arcs or circles
and external dimensions rapidly with large radii greater than on a compass.
and conveniently.
☛☛How to use Clamp one point to the
☛☛How to use Close the jaws, press batten, fix the second at the required
the on/off button. Set the display to zero, distance. Rotate the batten to make an arc.
adjust the jaws and read the measure.
☛☛Look for Some heads use a pencil
☛☛Look for Easy battery changing, instead of a steel point.
and a digital display showing either
metric or imperial measurements.
Spring Divider
☛☛What it is Pair of steel legs with
hardened points, which are adjusted
ads via a threaded rod and thumbwheel.
l he
mme
Tra ☛☛Use it for Precise marking or
measurement on wood or soft materials,
stepping off equal distances.
☛☛How to use Place one point on the
mark. Rotate the thumbwheel until the
second point reaches required distance.
☛☛Look for Good bow-spring tension
and a smooth adjustment action when
turning the wheel.

der

“ KEEP
ng divi
Spri C A L IP E R S O R D IV ID E R S I N
T HE IR C A S E S T O P R OT E C T THEM
W HE N T HE Y A R E N O T IN U S E
”
 UCT URE OF Inch/mm switch
STR A allows you to set
the required

Digital Caliper
measurement.
Measuring & Marking

A contemporary version of the traditional dial caliper, Whole tool

the digital caliper is much easier to read and faster
to use. The display may be solar-powered or it may
rely on a button battery. Better-quality tools
are made from stainless steel, while
cheaper versions may be of plastic
or carbon fibre.
Measurement
on rule shows on screen
in metric or imperial. Digital display
Upper jaws activated by
adjust to measure on/off button.
between inside Solar panel
faces of objects. should be kept clean
to allow maximum
light for charging.

032
033
SIDE VIEW

On/off button
activates digital Zero switch
display for more sets display to
accurate readings. zero, no matter
where jaws
are adjusted.

Notched tips
on both lower
and upper
jaws; inner jaw
Lower jaws is movable.
measure across
outside surfaces;
outer jaw is fixed.
 USING A

Digital
Depth gauge
uses sliding pin to
measure depth.
Caliper
One of the easiest measuring tools to use, the
digital caliper is also one of the most precise.
As well as internal and external measurements,

“ ALWAYS BU Y STA IN L ESS-STE E L

TOOLS FOR MEASURING AND MARKING
a pin at the end of the beam can also be used
for checking depth, which is revealed as you
slide the jaws apart.
I F YOU CA N A FFO R D T HEM
” The Process
Main scale
marked out in either Before you start
metric or imperial for ☛☛Clean the caliper Wipe clean surfaces to ensure they
accuracy and ease of use. are free of grease and grime before using the caliper.

☛☛Check the battery If no readout is visible, check

the battery and replace it if necessary. If using a solar-
powered model, make sure it has been properly charged.

Beam or blade
marked with
1 Slide the jaws
Press the on/off button. Select the unit needed by
pressing the metric/imperial button, then slide the
jaws closed. Check that the display is set to zero by
using the appropriate button.

2
graduations up
to 150mm (6in).
Take the readings
For internal measurements, slide the upper
jaws open on the reading head so that they make
FOCUS ON… contact with the two inside faces. Read the display. For

Capacitance
external measurements, slide the lower jaws around the
outside surfaces of the object to be measured, then
read the display.
Electronic sensors embedded along the beam detect
changes in electrical charge, known as capacitance,
as the distance changes between the jaws. The back After you finish
of the display head contains a network of lines etched ☛☛Remove the battery If you’re unlikely to use the tool
onto a printed circuit board that interact with a for several months, take out the battery. This prevents the
similar pattern of copper tracks on the beam, forming possibility of corrosion destroying the battery connection.
a variable capacitor. As the head travels along the ☛☛Store it safely Replace the digital caliper in its
beam, it sends a signal to a chip within the caliper, storage case or drawer to keep it clean and dry.
generating the readings shown on the LCD display.
 CHOOSING A

Square
Measuring & Markigng

Regardless of whether you’re working with metal,

wood, or sheet materials of various types, at some
point you will need to use a square. You need it not
only for marking lines that are perpendicular
to an edge, but also for checking angles,
or that a workpiece is square
before additional work can
go ahead on it.

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 Try Squares
☛☛What it is A hardened steel
blade riveted to a wood or plastic
re stock (carpenter’s) or an all-steel stock
squa (engineer’s) at precisely 90 degrees.
a tion
bin ☛☛Use it for General wood- and
Com metalworking; marking items before
sawing or further work. Testing for
squareness.
☛☛How to use Hold stock firmly against
the workpiece edge. Mark a line along the
outside of the blade.
☛☛Look for A brass facing to hardwood
stocks for greater endurance.

Mitre Square
☛☛What it is A hardened steel blade
riveted to a hardwood or metal stock
at precisely 45 degrees.
☛☛Use it for Checking and marking
out 45-degree angles on materials.
☛☛How to use Hold the stock firmly
against the workpiece. Mark a line along
the outside of the blade.
☛☛Look for On new tools, sharp edges
may need filing slightly before use.

“ WHEN WO R K IN G W IT H W OO D ,
A LWAY S K EEP THE S T O C K O F T HE Combination Square
SQ U A R E AGAINST T HE FA C E ☛☛What it is An adjustable stock

”
that slides along a rule, locking with
SIDE O R FA CE E D G E a thumbscrew.
☛☛Use it for Common for marking
45-degree angles; as a rule or level;
for checking depth; also as a try square.
☛☛How to use Loosen the thumbscrew,
slide the stock along the rule, retighten.
☛☛Look for A heavy cast-iron stock
for reliability and accuracy. Most models
include a spirit level and scriber in
the stock.

Sliding Bevel
☛☛What it is A hardwood, plastic,
or aluminium stock with a steel blade
that can be locked at any angle.
☛☛Use it for Checking existing angles,
adjusting blades on machines, and
marking out material.
☛☛How to use Hold the stock firmly
against the edge of the workpiece,
swing the blade to the required angle,
Sliding bevel and tighten.
☛☛Look for An easy but firm locking
action via a lever or thumbscrew.
 Sliding
cast-iron stock
locks in groove on rule.
Measuring & Marking
VIEW
TOP

Stock edge
at 45-degree
036 angle for mitres.
037 Knurled
SIDE VIEW

thumbscrew
for tightening
stock at desired
position.

Inset vial
enables the tool Knurled scriber
to be used as a stored in end of stock.
compact spirit level.
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Combination
Thin blade
is just a few
millimetres deep.
Square
A combination square is a multifunctional tool
that is used to mark out both timber and metal
at the start of a project, as well as to check mitres,
corners, and right angles. Unlike a conventional
square, a combination stock incorporates a spirit
level and scriber, and it can also be used for
measuring depth.

FOCUS ON…
s
Stainless-steel rule
Combi Square Head
with metric or imperial Combination squares can include a variety of interchangable
graduations. Length from heads that can be fixed on to the blade. The standard head
150–400mm (6–16in). is used to check angles of 90- or 45-degrees, and is probably
all you need for most woodworking and DIY jobs. More complex
combination sets, often used by metal-workers and engineers,
may include additional heads, such as a protractor.

“ MORE V E R S ATI LE
A TRY OR EN G IN EER ’S SQ U A R E , T HIS
T HA N

T OOL HA S N U MER O U S U SES

”
Combination square A basic combination square
has a standard, or square, head fitted on to the blade.

Scriber is unscrewed
and pulled out to use.

Combination sets A combination set includes more

specialized heads, such as a protractor, centre head,
Scriber from bottom and 45-degree holder, as shown here.
 USING A

Combination Square
Measuring & Marking

Having a small (150mm / 6in) combination square can come in handy, particularly when
marking out woodworking joints or checking internal corners in wood or metal where space
may be too tight to allow the use of larger squares. The small version takes up very little
room in the toolbox and is a useful addition to any do-it-yourselfer’s toolkit.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Check the size Ensure that the
square’s ruler width and length are
adequate for the workpiece.
☛☛Test the square If using it for
the first time, and especially if you’ve
bought a used tool, check your square
is true. Lay the stock against the edge
of a straight piece of ply or MDF and
draw a perpendicular line. Flip the
square and draw a second line over the
first. If they line up, the square is true.
038 ☛☛Check the workpiece Reference
surfaces should be completely straight.
039 In woodwork this is usually the face
side or face edge. Cutting guide
drawn by
running pencil
along blade.

2 Mark a right angle for cutting

To mark timber to length before sawing, measure from
one end with a tape measure or steel rule. Mark with
a sharp pencil and square a line across the face side and
face edge. You may find it helpful to add a third line down
the back edge to guide the saw.

1 Draw a sliding guide line

Slide the stock until the required
length is visible on ruler. Lock the
“ ME A S U RE IT, Y O U
IF Y O U C A N N O T

”
thumbscrew, then hold stock firmly
against workpiece edge. Hold pencil C A N N O T C O NT R OL IT. L O R D K E LV I N
at the end of blade and slide the square
along workpiece to create a parallel line.
 FOCUS ON…
Right Angles
Interior stock
There are three corners on a square that should be to blade set at
perfect right angles. But don’t assume that blade and 90 degrees.
stock on your square are set precisely at 90 degrees.
To check, hold the stock firmly against the dead Exterior blade
to interior stock External blade
straight edge of a board. Draw a pencil line along to external stock
set at 90 degrees.
the outside of the blade. Flip the tool over and then set at 90 degrees.
repeat the process. Both lines will coincide if the
square is accurate. Check this when buying new tools.

With shoulder
of square on edge

4
of timber, rule
lies at 45 degrees.
Check an interior angle
To make sure internal corners are square,
slide the stock to the end of the blade and
tighten the thumbscrew. Hold the square against
both interior surfaces and check the angle for
accuracy. This is useful when gluing together
a box or drawer.

3 Mark 45 degrees
To mark a 45-degree cutting
angle, hold the shoulder of
the square against the edge
of the workpiece with one hand.
After you finish
☛☛Keep it clean The rules on combination
squares can rust if exposed to moisture. Wipe
the blade with a cloth and a drop of oil or
paraffin to protect it after use.
Draw a line across using the
rule to mark the angle of cut. ☛☛Store it safely Like all measuring tools,
combination squares should be treated with
respect, as they are relatively fragile tools.
Built-in scriber If your square came in a purpose-made case,
at end of stock can be replace it there for storage. If not, store it so
used in place of pencil. that it lies as flat as possible.
 CHOOSING A

Level
Measuring & Marking

A spirit level is an essential tool for general building work,

renovation, or landscaping projects. Besides checking that
horizontal and vertical surfaces are true, a long level
can also be used as a straight edge when cutting
plasterboard or marking out sheet materials.
A short level may be a more useful choice
in a confined space.

040
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“ WAT E R
T HE S U R FA C E O F A S T IL L B O D Y O F
IS T R U LY L E V E L
”
 Pocket Level
☛☛What it is A compact tool for
checking the levels of smaller items
or working in confined spaces.
☛☛Use it for Levelling pictures and
paintings, shelves, light switches,
and wall tiles.
☛☛How to use Hold tool against vertical
or horizontal surface. The surface is level
or plumb when the bubble is centred.
☛☛Look for A magnetic strip enables
easy use on metal surfaces. A belt clip
is also handy.

Digital Level
☛☛What it is A tool similar to a spirit
level, but with an LCD screen displaying
angles in both degrees and percentages.
☛☛Use it for Checking precise angles
(degrees) on roof timbers or inclinations
of sloping surfaces (mm per metre).
☛☛How to use Place the tool on the
surface to be checked and turn on the
Plumb Bob level. Use hold button to retain display.
☛☛Look for Backlighting makes the
☛☛What it is A tapered brass or steel LCD easier to read. Audible bleeps
weight (bob) suspended on a fine nylon indicate when surfaces are perfectly
or cotton string tied to its opposite end. level or plumb.
☛☛Use it for Checking walls and studs

Post Level
are plumb. Transferring marks from floor
to ceiling. Hanging wallpaper.
☛☛How to use Drive a nail into a surface ☛☛What it is A compact and angled
perpendicular to the item being checked,
level with three vials that allow for use
such as a ceiling joist beside a wall stud.
around corners.
Tie the string to the nail. Once the bob is
still, measure the distance from the item’s ☛☛Use it for Checking that fence
surface to the top of the string and to the posts or pipework are plumb in all
bob tip. If they match, the surface is plumb. their respective vertical planes.
☛☛Look for As the tool relies on gravity, ☛☛How to use Hold the level against
the line must hang free for accuracy. two surfaces of the object, such as a post
corner, and check that all bubbles are
centred in their vials.
Spirit Level ☛☛Look for Models with built-in
magnets are useful for checking
☛☛What it is A long, rectangular metal surfaces.
aluminium box with liquid-filled vials
embedded in the ends and in the centre.
☛☛Use it for Checking horizontal
surfaces are level (parallel) or vertical

“ VERTICAL
surfaces are perpendicular (plumb).
A
☛☛How to use Place the tool on surface
or against edge. Check the appropriate SURFACE IS THE
bubble is centred between the lines: the
el centre vial finds the true horizontal,
t lev LINE DEFINED BY A
Pos the end vials find the true vertical.
☛☛Look for Shock-absorbing rubber
end caps provide protection. Vials with
a magnifying lens are easier to read.
PLUMB LINE
”
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Spirit Level
Measuring & Marking

Whole tool
The vial is a crucial component of a spirit level, and any
tool will have at least two: one for horizontal and one for
End cap is made of soft
vertical work. High-tech digital models will also measure material to absorb shock
angles and inclination, which are displayed on a clear if level is dropped. Makes
tool more durable.
LCD screen. Although spirit level bodies are usually
extruded aluminium, wooden levels are still available.
Lengths range from around 250 –2,440mm (10–96in).

Edges of tool have

been machined flat
for absolute accuracy.
Hanging hole They also form a useful
for storage. hand grip.

042
SIDE VIEW

043

FOCUS ON…
The Bubble
The vial of a spirit level is not completely filled
with fluid in order to create an air bubble.
Because it is less dense than the coloured
fluid, the bubble rises to the top of the vial if
unobstructed. When the tool is level, the high
End vial for
point is in the vial’s centre, so the bubble
checking vertical
settles there. If the tool is not level, the bubble surfaces are plumb.
heads for higher ground, or the far end – right Vial rotates between
or left – of the vial. 0 and 90 degrees.
 USING A

Spirit Level
A longer level means greater accuracy. If
Box section you need to check that a surface is horizontal
is constructed of
powder-coated across a greater span than the tool length,
aluminium. substitute a piece of straight, parallel timber
between the two points with the level on top.

The Process
Coloured fluid Before you start
may be alcohol
or mineral spirit ☛☛Inspect the level Make sure the level is completely
solution. Colour clean. Remove any dirt or debris from tool edges.
improves visibility.
☛☛Prepare your ground If using the level in outdoor
work (such as concrete or building decking), hammer
pointed pegs into uneven ground. Level tops of pegs first
to obtain reference points and measure down from these.

1 To check a horizontal surface

Place the spirit level on the horizontal surface and
allow bubble to come to rest. If the bubble does not
appear exactly between divisions on vial, adjust one end
of object until the bubble is centralized.

2 To mark a wall
If using the level when marking a wall, place a pencil
mark at one end. Flip the level around and mark at
the opposite end, continuing this method until sufficient
distance is covered.

“ CALIBR ATE Y O U R LEV E L B Y

3 To check a surface is plumb
To check the plumb of a vertical surface, hold the
level against the edge. If the bubble is not centred
in the vial, then the vertical surface is not perpendicular
or plumb and needs adjusting.
PLACI NG IT O N A F L AT SU R FA C E ,
NOTE THE R EA D IN G , FLI P THE
LEVEL AN D N O T E T HE BU BBL E ’S After you finish
POSI TI ON . IF B O TH R EA D IN G S ☛☛Clean it up Always wipe down or wash off a level
if it is muddy or has been used around concrete. An
MATCH T HE LEV EL IS aluminium body will not rust, but any debris attached
to its surface can throw its measurement out of true.
BALA N C E D
” ☛☛Put it away Store your level in a dry, secure place.
Some levels have hoels in the end to hang them up.
 Long-handled
Garden scissors lopper
Anvil lopper

Anvil secateurs
Bypass secateurs Bonsai snips

Loppers and Pruners

Bypass lopper
Flower snips

H E T O O L S
T for
Cutting & Chopping
Most tasks in the workshop or the garden involve some cutting
or chopping. Whether you need to split logs, prune shrubs, clear
weeds, or saw through a pipe, there’s a specific tool to help you.

Splitting axe Hatchet Yorkshire billhook

Axes
Staffordshire
billhook

Side axe Adze

General Billhook Chopper
purpose axe
 Weed slasher
Beet hook
Parang machete
American grass whip

Hand slasher Machete

Sickle

Long-handled slasher Modern scythe

Scythes and Sickles

English scythe

Saws
Dozuki

Azebiki
Tenon saw Junior hacksaw
Hacksaw

Ryoba

Dovetail saw Gents saw

Pruning saw

Hardpoint saw

Floorboard saw Coping saw Handsaw

Shears

Knives

Multitool
Topiary shears

Utility knife Swiss Army knife

Grass shears

Edging Lawn
Craft knife Pruning knife shears Japanese shears shears
 HISTORY OF

Cutting & Chopping

FIRST TOOLS EARLY AXE
3.3–1.7 MYA

1.5 MYA
ETHIOPIA In 1969, five stone
choppers made 2.6
The oldest-known stone tools come million years ago were
Used for chopping, scraping, or
from Kenya. Stone cutting tools, discovered here. as hunting knives, axe-like tools
made by striking (“knapping”) appeared in the Acheulean period.
rocks against each other, have They were sharp-edged, tapered at
been found at numerous Koobi Fora one end, and rounded at the other.
archaeological sites. Naturally
shaped rocks were used for cutting
SOMALIA
throughout this period, before stone
KENYA
was worked into scrapers and
hand-axes with serrated edges.

Nairobi

TANZANIA

Acheulean axe

HANDLED KNIVES EARLY SICKLES

35,000 YA

18,000–8000 BCE

Cro-Magnon man used stone Sickles were first used in the Mesolithic Era. These tools
blades, but also transformed other were probably developed in Mesopotamia, and played
materials, such as bone, horn, and an important role in the farming revolution by Handles for early sickles
were usually made from
ivory from mammoths into tools. improving the efficiency of gathering crops. either wood or bone.
A graver was a narrow flint blade
used to scrape out slivers of bone
to make pins or needles. Handles,
or hafts, were first attached to
blades around this time, creating
Early sickles were
the first knives. created by shaping
narrow flint “OFT DID THE
blades, some with
a slight curve, HARVEST TO THEIR
or using toothed
animal jawbones. SICKLE YIELD…”
Neolithic T H O M A S G R AY
sickle
 USING METALS
6500 BCE
Before the advent of smelting,
1,083°C “WE SHAPE
The melting point
copper and meteoric iron were of copper. OUR TOOLS,
hammered into sheets to create
tools with sharper and harder
AND THEN
edges, including knives, choppers, OUR TOOLS
and axe heads. Some were shaped
with handles; others were set into
SHAPE US.”
handles of wood or bone. When alloyed with tin, JOHN M CULKIN
this drops to T H E S A T U R D AY R E V I E W ,
18 MARCH, 1967
950°C
THE FIRST TRUE SAWS AXES AND ADZES
c.3000–1900 BCE

2700 BCE
In the Bronze Age, metal was smelted and cast, processes that Metal axes and adzes were
improved many tools and weapons. Bladed saws were created used in ancient Egypt and in
from smelted and cast copper, with teeth that cut through wood, Mesopotamia. The Egyptians
rather than hacking at its surface. Saws began to be used for lashed metal blades to wooden Adze head
woodworking, heralding the rise of many modern saws. handles, but the Mesopotamian made from metals
including copper
Early hammered
tools created shaft holes to fix and silver.
bronze saws had blade and handle together.
very short teeth. Shaft-hole axes and adzes
were also used in Crete around
700 years later.
Bronze
Age saw Mesopotamian adze head

SAW DEVELOPMENT CROSSCUT SAWS

35 BCE–500 CE

c.500–1500

IRON ALLOYS The Romans improved saws by In the Middle Ages, long two-
More durable tools were formed in the Iron
Age. Tools such as axes were made of adding handles and frames. In the handled saws were developed for
wrought and cast iron. 1st century ce, historian Pliny the crosscutting green wood. Two men
Elder noted that the setting of the operated the saw, one pulling as
teeth to create a kerf wider than the other pushed. The teeth of
Cast Iron
the blade’s thickness helped these saws were set in the same
to minimize sawdust. way as modern crosscut saws.
97% iron 3% carbon
Steel

FIRST SECATEURS
1819

98% iron 2% carbon

A SHARP KNIFE
Stainless steel IS NOTHING French aristocrat Antoine de
Molleville invented the first hand
WITHOUT A pruners or secateurs (from the
50% iron 20% chromium 30% other
metals SHARP EYE. French word for “cutter”).
 CHOOSING A

Saw
Cutting & Chopping

Some saws cut across woodgrain, others

rip along it; look for teeth per inch (tpi)
to know the cut type. A high tpi (10–12)
means finer cuts but slower sawing than
with a 4–5 tpi. Blade length and
handle shape are also important.
Saws for cutting metal
have finer teeth than
woodcutting saws.

w
dsa
Han

w
on sa
048 Ten

049

aw
oint s
Hardp
 Floorboard Saw
☛☛What it is A specialist tool with a
convex row of teeth, a plastic or hardwood
handle, and traditional or hardpoint teeth.
☛☛Use it for Cutting across floorboards
without the need to lever them up first for
conventional sawing.
☛☛How to use Start the cut with curved
teeth across the board’s centre. Flip the
aw saw and continue with the straight teeth.
oard s
orb ☛☛Look for Teeth that can be sharpened,
Flo although rarely available on new models.

Hardpoint Saw
☛☛What it is A plastic-handled saw
with heat-treated teeth that stay sharper
longer than traditional saws.
☛☛Use it for General-purpose sawing of
aw timber and boards. Can’t be resharpened.
ts s
Gen ☛☛How to use Place teeth at rear edge
of wood, pull saw back to make groove.
Hold saw at angle; cut on push/pull strokes.
☛☛Look for A soft-grip handle, a 550mm
(22in) blade, and 7–8 tpi. Handle can be
used to mark wood at 45 or 90 degrees.

Handsaw
Gents Saw
☛☛What it is Hardwood-handled saw
with teeth able to be sharpened. Blade ☛☛What it is Smaller version of the
length is around 500–660mm (20–26in). dovetail saw, with even finer teeth. Blade
length: 100–200mm (4–8in); up to 30 tpi.
☛☛Use it for Use a crosscut saw for cuts
across grain; a rip saw for coarse cuts with ☛☛Use it for Very fine cuts and precision
the grain; a panel saw for sheet material. work: making musical instruments,
model-making, fine furniture.
☛☛How to use See hardpoint saw
(above). Cut with push/pull strokes. ☛☛How to use Align teeth at rear of
wood. Pull backwards and gradually
☛☛Look for A handle attached with lower saw as you cut with push stroke.
screws, so it can be tightened as needed.
☛☛Look for A blade length of 150mm
(6in) is a useful size.
Tenon Saw
☛☛What it is Saw with reinforced brass
or steel back on the blade and a hardwood
Dovetail Saw
or plastic handle. Blade length: 250– ☛☛What it is Like a small tenon saw;
455mm (10–18in); 12–16 tpi. fine teeth and hardwood handle. Blade
length: 200–250mm (8–10in); 16–22 tpi.
☛☛Use it for Sawing joints in timber, and
finer crosscut work than a handsaw. ☛☛Use it for Small joints, especially
dovetails; model-making, cabinetmaking.
☛☛How to use Start cut at the timber’s
back edge. Pull saw back to make groove, ☛☛How to use Start the cut at the wood’s
lower the blade, and cut horizontally. rear edge. Pull back to make a groove,
then lower the blade and cut horizontally.
☛☛Look for A heavy brass back to blade
makes joint-cutting easier. Look down the ☛☛Look for A brass back to increase
w tooth-line to check the blade is straight. the weight for greater control.
tail sa
ove
D
CONTINUED ☛
Cutting & Chopping

w
ksa
Hac

w
ksa
or hac
Juni

w
in g sa
Cop
 Ryoba
☛☛What it is Japanese combination saw
with two rows of teeth (typically 10–16 tpi).
Handle is wrapped in split bamboo.
☛☛Use it for Crosscutting timber with
finer teeth; ripping along grain with larger
ba
Ryo teeth. Joints and general joinery work.
☛☛How to use Hold the saw at a low
angle when cutting. Swap between teeth
depending on timber density and thickness.
☛☛Look for A release lever, which
makes blade replacement easier. Blade
length should be 240mm (9in).

Dozuki
☛☛What it is Japanese saw with a folded
steel back to provide support for the thin

Hacksaw
ki blade. Very fine teeth (18–20 tpi).
D ozu
☛☛Use it for Fine crosscutting: joints,
cabinetmaking, mouldings, precision work.
☛☛What it is A metal-framed, fine-
toothed saw with the blade under tension. ☛☛How to use Start cut at the rear of
Replaceable blade is 300mm (12in). wood, lower the blade and keep it parallel
to surface as you pull the saw back.
☛☛Use it for Cutting metals, plastic
pipes, ceramic tiles. Some saws cut flush. ☛☛Look for Models with replaceable
blades; otherwise saws can be expensive
☛☛How to use Place teeth on surface,
as teeth may be too small to sharpen.
pull saw back to make a groove. Cut with
alternate push/pull strokes.
☛☛Look for Quick-release blade
tensioning makes replacing blades easy. Azebiki
☛☛What it is Japanese saw with two
Aze
biki
Coping Saw short rows of curved teeth on a hardened
steel blade, with a hardwood handle.

☛☛What it is Deep, metal-framed saw ☛☛Use it for Plunge-cutting in sheet

with a 150mm (6in) replaceable blade material and thinner timber without
held under tension. Blade can be rotated. starting from an edge.

☛☛Use it for Cutting curves or profiles ☛☛How to use Place teeth on pencil line,
in timber, sheet materials, ceramic tiles. gently pull back to start the cut. Use fine
teeth for crosscutting, coarse for ripping.
☛☛How to use Drill a clearance hole and ☛☛Look for A replaceable blade.
insert blade end. Refit blade to frame,
adjust tension and angle to make the cut. A protective cover is also a good idea.
saw
ng
Pr uni ☛☛Look for Make sure the blade is easy
to tighten and release.
Pruning Saw
Junior Hacksaw ☛☛What it is A rigid, backless blade
(fixed or folding, straight or curved), often
with triple-ground teeth to cut both ways.
☛☛What it is Small hacksaw, with

“ THE T E E TH O F JA PA N ESE bent-steel frame and 150mm (6in) blade. ☛☛Use it for Removing small branches,
Pins at blade ends slot in frame. pruning trees, shrubs, and general garden
work where secateurs are too small.
SAW S, OR N O K O G I R I , ☛☛Use it for Cutting metal or plastic,
bolts, general smaller-scale metalwork. ☛☛How to use Support branch with
Blades for wood are also available. your free hand while sawing to prevent
POI NT BA CK WA R D S A N D a sudden drop.
☛☛How to use Pull saw back to start
CUT TH E WO O D O N THE the cut. Continue with push/pull strokes. ☛☛Look for A folding handle to protect
the teeth when the saw isn’t in use. Ensure

”
☛☛Look for Saws with adjustable
P UL L S TR O K E tension offer greater control. this locks securely when blade is open.
 “ A VA R IET Y O F B LA D ES
DI FF ER EN T MATER IA LS MA K E S A
FOR
Cutting & Chopping

HAC K SAW A V E R S AT IL E TOOL

” One-piece frame
is bowed, providing
sawing depth.
Thumb fit
helps guide and
stabilize the
saw in use.

“ S O M E HA C K S AW S A L L O W A B L AD E T O
B E F IT T E D AT 4 5 D E GR E E S – T HIS
052 Front grip handle
provides more E N A B L E S B O LT S O R S IM IL A R T O B E S AWN
053 O F F F L US H W IT H T HE S UR FAC E
”
control for
better cutting.

Narrow blade
with small teeth,
held under tension.
Guard
at base of arm helps
keep blade in place.

Pins or spigots
hold the blade
in place on
the frame.
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Hacksaw
Rear handle Unlike saws for cutting timber, a hacksaw has a
features
soft-touch sturdy metal framework that holds a blade under
comfort grip. tension. Used primarily for sawing soft and hard
metals, its small teeth also make it suitable for
plastic pipes and fittings. Blades are replaceable
and have a standard length of 300mm (12in). Fit
a tungsten carbide grit blade to cut tiles and glass.

FOCUS ON…
Frames
SIDE VIEW

The rigid steel or aluminium frame of a hacksaw supports

a narrow, small-toothed blade, which is secured at each end
by posts or studs, sometimes known as spigots. Once fitted,
tension is applied in order to keep the blade taut enough
for sawing without breaking it. On modern saws the frame
incorporates an enclosed rear handle, which may be either
bare metal or have a textured rubber grip.

Quick-
release
lever pivots New hacksaw Has a tubular steel frame with a
around screw. greater depth for sawing. Modern saws also feature
a textured grip and a quick-release lever for easier
blade-changing.

Mechanism
drops down Old hacksaw The basic steel frame of an older model
when opened, Quick-release of hacksaw provides more limited clearance when
reducing tension lever open sawing. Studs or pins hold the blade in place, and
on blade. it is tensioned by turning a wing nut adjuster.
 USING A

Hacksaw
Cutting & Chopping

Because its teeth are so small, sawing with a hacksaw is slow compared with using a
handsaw – especially when cutting metal, as sawing too fast creates heat by friction. When
sawing cylindrical objects like pipes, it can be difficult to achieve an even surface, but put
a piece of tape around the pipe and you’ll have a guide all the way around the diameter.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Fit the blade With the teeth
facing forwards (pointing away from the
handle), fit the blade by hooking each
end over the frame pins or spigots.
☛☛Tighten the blade Turn the wing
nut or thumbscrew until the blade is
taut. Newer tools may tighten
automatically via a locking lever.
☛☛Secure workpiece Never hold
an item to be sawn in your hand while
cutting. Always secure it to your bench
054 or work surface using a clamp or vice.

055 ☛☛Saw it safely Wear gloves when

working with metal objects with sharp
edges, such as pipes or sheet metal.

2 Guide the cut

Standing with your
feet apart and your eye
above the line of cut, place
the saw teeth on the mark.
Carefully rest your thumb
or index finger next to

1
the blade to help steady
Make your mark it. Make your first cut by
Ensure that the object is gripped tightly positioning the blade along
in a vice or clamped to a workbench, the guide line, then pull it
and position your cut as close to the jaws towards you a few times Create the kerf
or first guide cuts
as possible to prevent vibration. Use a piece to create a shallow groove. for the blade
of tape as a guide around pipes, or create by using gentle
a mark with a file. strokes of the saw.
 FOCUS ON…
The Blade Teeth point Cut on push
stroke allows
forwards away
A general purpose carbon steel blade has 18 –32 tpi and from handle, and more pressure
will cut mild steel, soft metals, and rigid plastics. For are set in waves, on the saw for
making cuts harder-to-cut
hard metals a bi-metal universal blade with hardened wider than blade. material.
teeth is more efficient and durable. The high speed steel
edge and softer spring steel body welded together lets
the blade flex without breaking. The blade is fixed with
teeth facing forwards so it cuts on the push stroke, letting
the user exert pressure when cutting tough material.

4 Finish the cut

Once you’ve cut through the object to your
satisfaction, check that the cut edge is even
all the way around. Metals in particular will have
sharp, burred edges after sawing, so always use
a file to remove these before releasing your object

3
from the vice or clamp.
Sawing on Stand with your right
Grip the tool with both hands (unlike leg forward if you are
a woodcutting saw), with one hand on the left-handed or left leg After you finish
forward if you are
handle and the other at the front of the frame. right-handed. ☛☛Wipe off the blade Wipe any debris off the
Push the blade forwards and backwards a few blade after use. Apply a little oil with a soft cloth
times, using as much blade length as possible to prevent rusting.
on each stroke. Continue sawing back and forth, ☛☛Slacken off the tension Loosen the wing
keeping the blade horizontal. Catch the offcut nut a few turns before storing the saw in order
to prolong the life of the blade.
with your front hand as you complete the cut.
☛☛Hang it up Store the hacksaw by hanging
it to keep the blade as sharp as possible for
as long as possible.
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Handsaw
Cutting & Chopping

A traditional handsaw can be a highly rewarding tool to use, but its teeth
must be sharp and they should be set correctly to tackle the job you have in
mind. If you are cutting timber frequently, you may need both a crosscut
and a rip saw in your tool kit. A panel saw has smaller teeth designed for
cutting thinner pieces of wood, although these will blunt quickly when Whole tool
used on man-made boards.

Top edge of blade

is skew-backed
for better balance
SIDE VIEW

Toe of saw blade

is farthest from handle. when sawing.
Some have a hole here
for hanging the tool.

056
057

Blade is slightly
flexible, and normally
made from carbon steel.

FOCUS ON…
The Teeth
Traditional handsaws and backsaws, such as tenon
or dovetail saws, have teeth that can be sharpened with
a triangular saw file. Teeth are shaped individually and
lean alternately to the left or right; this is known as the
set. The set provides clearance as the saw slices through
timber and cuts a channel, called a kerf, that is wider
than the blade. Hardpoint saw teeth are electronically
Teeth are filed treated and cannot be sharpened, although they do
at angle on
crosscut saw.
stay sharper for longer.
 USING A
Shaped handle
consists of tapered grip

Handsaw
and horns, which should
Hardwood handle
be correct width to fit
on traditional saws
your hand comfortably.
is usually beech,
maple, or walnut.

Hold the saw with your index finger pointing

down the handle. Stand so that your eye is
above the line of cut, to judge if the blade
is square. Use the entire blade when sawing,
rather than just those teeth near the centre.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Mark the wood Always saw to a guide line,
whether cutting across or with the grain. Timber should
be marked on both the face side and the face edge.
☛☛Secure the wood Cramp timber to the top of a
workbench before sawing. Place long boards across
one or two sawhorses.

1 Line up
Position the teeth of the saw next to the pencil line
on the rear edge of the timber. Place the thumb of
your other hand next to the blade; this helps to adjust
the exact start of your cut.

Brass screws
2 Make a kerf
Pull the saw back gently a few times to make
a shallow groove, or kerf. Use your thumb to
move the blade sideways if necessary.

3
secure blade to handle.
They can be tightened Saw timber
if wood shrinks and Saw down through the timber with a push stroke,
handle becomes loose.
pulling the tool back, then repeat the process. Follow
the pencil lines, keeping the blade square. Hold timber
on the waste side of the line as you gently complete the
cut. This prevents splitting as the saw exits the wood.

“ ACCU
CA N N O T
YOU
R ATE LY
HO P E T O SAW
IF T HE

”
After you finish
TEETH ARE B LU N T ☛☛Clean up If the saw is unlikely to be used for
some time, wipe the blade lightly with a thin coating
of oil to prevent rust.
☛☛Store it safely Slide the saw back into its protective
plastic sleeve, both to protect the tool and to prevent
injury to you or others.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

Y
“ I SPEN D A L O T O F T IME
C A R PE NT RY . S O M E T IM E S T HE R E
D O IN G

IS N O TH ING T HAT G IV E S M E T HE

C O N TE N T ME N T T HAT S AW ING
A PI E C E OF W OO D
A B B A S K I A R O S TA M I
DOES.
”
 CHOOSING AN

Axe
Cutting & Chopping

Axes come in many shapes and sizes, each

one designed and suited to a specific task.
A multipurpose axe or hatchet will be
all most people need for
chopping firewood;
however, specialist
tasks can be catered
for. There are several
different axe types, e
e ax
so first identify the Sid
result your want to
achieve, then choose the
right axe to fit the job.

060
061 “ T O OALX E
THE IS A N A N C IE NT
T HAT HA S EV O LVE D IN T O
MANY D IFFER EN T FO R MS ,
BECO MIN G O N E O F T HE
M OST V E R S ATI LE
”
xe
po se a
ltipur
Mu

axe
itting
Spl
 e
Adz che
t
Hat

Adze
☛☛What it is Ancient cutting tool with
a long, scooped head that “shaves” wood.
☛☛Use it for Shaping or finishing wood.
The short handle allows for fine finishing.
☛☛How to use Take small swings with
the grain to start the cut, then larger ones
to finish off. This avoids gouging.
☛☛Look for A very sharp blade to shape
Side Axe
timber, create curves.

☛☛What it is Sharp axe with one flat

edge to the head, for accurate shaping Hatchet
and cutting.
☛☛What it is A lightweight, short-handled
☛☛Use it for Fine crafts, such as axe, ideal for domestic and camping use.
hedge-laying or shaping timber.
☛☛Use it for General cutting, such as
☛☛How to use Hold wood with one chopping kindling and splitting small logs.
hand, higher than axe-hand. Chop with
flat side of blade facing the wood surface. ☛☛How to use Grip handle with one or
both hands. Swing down from shoulder.
☛☛Look for Either a left- or right-hand
☛☛Look for A hard-wearing blade that
blade shape – both are available. keeps its edge, and a sheath to protect it.

Multipurpose Axe Splitting Axe

☛☛What it is A basic axe with a handle ☛☛What it is An axe with a wedge-
varying from curved to straight, traditional shaped head for splitting apart wood fibres.
wood to carbon fibre, medium to long.
☛☛Use it for Splitting logs to burn in an
☛☛Use it for Splitting and chopping. open fireplace or woodburner.
The head’s moderate angle makes it less
good for felling and shaping. ☛☛How to use Grip handle with both
hands, swing axe over your shoulder to
☛☛How to use Bring axe over shoulder, strike log. Split wide logs from outside in.
sliding top hand close to head. Swing axe
down, sliding top hand down the handle. ☛☛Look for A longer handle makes
splitting logs easier for taller people.
☛☛Look for Lighter or heavier heads,
shorter or longer handles. Choose those
that best suit your build and needs.
CONTINUED ☛
Cutting & Chopping

ok
lho
Bil

062
063

ok
billho
ds hire
ffor
Sta
 Billhook
☛☛What it is A short-handled tool with
a deep, flat, hooked blade.
☛☛Use it for A wide variety of chopping
tasks, for woody material 2–10cm (1–4in)
in diameter.
☛☛How to use Swing at material, away
from the body. Use gloves if holding stems.
☛☛Look for Old, well-maintained forged
steel with a good, weighty head.

Yorkshire Billhook
☛☛What it is A long-handled tool with
a head that has a hooked blade on one
side and a flat edge on the other. Total
tool length of 90cm (35in).

ook
☛☛Use it for Cutting thicker material
llh in a single swing, particularly when
r e bi hedge-laying. Requires a strong arm!
kshi
Yor

“
☛☛How to use Use one or two hands,
BIL L HO O K S AR E S IGN IF IC AN T swinging blade to the base of stems.
Keep free hand high if holding stems.
TO O LS. T HEY A R E E X T R E M E LY ☛☛Look for Smooth fitting of the handle
to metalwork, ensuring there are no snags
U S E FU L A N D C O M E IN A or rough edges.

R A N G E O F SHA P E S A N D S IZ E S
” Staffordshire Billhook
☛☛What it is Similar to the standard
billhook, but with an additional flat
cutting blade on the back side.
☛☛Use it for An even wider range of
chopping tasks. The flat blade is good
for sharpening stakes and kindling.
☛☛How to use When sharpening stakes,
cut vertically, holding the stake at the
right angle. Cut onto a chopping block.
☛☛Look for A head mounted well into
the handle, without any play or movement.

Cleaver
☛☛What it is Similar to a billhook
but with a single flat cutting edge.
☛☛Use it for Cutting points on small
stakes and splitting kindling.
☛☛How to use Swing single-handedly.
The main concern is not hitting your

“
free hand, so always keep it higher
CHO P Y O U R O W N W OO D than your cutting hand.

A N D IT W IL L WA R M Y O U
☛☛Look for Enough weight in the head
to cut smoothly, and no rust pitting in

”
the metalwork. The edge should be
Cle
ave
r
TWIC E . HENRY FORD very sharp.
 Wedge of wood or
metal; spreads axe
handle to fit eye.
The eye is the

FRONT VIEW
hole in the head
Cutting & Chopping

where the haft fits.

Handle forced
apart by wedge to
fit snugly in eye.
Tapered back
of handle helps it
to slide and swing
easily in the hands.
SIDE VIEW

Heavy steel wedge

forms concave shape
of blade, giving extra
force to striking blows.

064
065

Edge of blade
is clean and flares
upwards.
BACK
VIEW

Poll or butt
of head; only splitting
maul’s poll should be Shoulder of head
used to drive wedge. beyond eye gives
added weight to
the head.
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Splitting Axe
A splitting axe or maul is specially designed and forged to achieve the maximum result with the least
physical effort. Its wide, wedge-shaped head, with its thin, sharp blade, forces woodgrain apart –
unlike a felling axe, which cuts across the grain. Both the shape and weight of a splitting axe head
combine to produce a heavy and powerful strike, splitting the toughest of logs with ease. The blade
is also less likely to catch in wood than that of a standard axe.

Wide haft end

or swell knob
prevents axe
from slipping
out of hands.

FOCUS ON…
Axe Head Shapes
Axes vary greatly in size, head shape, handle shape, and use.

“ STO R I N G Most people are familiar with the multi-purpose axe for chopping
W HEN AN AXE and splitting; however, there are also special felling, splitting, and
FOR LONG ER P ER IO D S, RUB craft axes. The size, shape, and angle of these different axe heads
make them suitable for specific tasks.
UNCOATE D HA N D LE S WIT H
LI NSEED O IL A N D A P P LY A LIG H T
COAT O F L IG HT V EG ETA BLE O R
M ACHI NE O IL TO T HE HE A D
” Splitting axe The steep wedge of the splitting axe
uses weight and force to push a sharp, very thin blade
between wood fibres.

Felling axe The felling axe is large and very

sharp, with a shallow angle designed for cutting
across woodgrain.
Hardwood haft
usually made of
hickory or ash, which
are strong and flexible.

Side axe The sharp blade of a side axe is flat on one

side, bevelled on the other. It is used by craftsmen for
accurate, close cutting and shaping of wood.
 USING A

Splitting Axe
Cutting & Chopping

A splitting axe is the most efficient type of axe to use for cutting firewood to size, and its
design makes the task easy. It’s technique, rather than brute force, that counts here. The
heavy, wedged head forces wood fibres apart, working with both gravity and the timber’s
own grain to make the cut.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Check your surroundings Ensure that your
work area is clear and open, without overhead
obstructions or trip hazards. Make sure there
is plenty of room for you to swing the axe.
☛☛Inspect the axe Check that the axe head
is fixed firmly on the handle, without any play.
☛☛Dress appropriately Wear stout, protective
footwear, long heavy trousers, and safety glasses.
☛☛Arrange your space Plan out the work area,
so that the material to be split is within reach.

066 Split close to where your wood will be stacked.

067

1 Set up
Choose a large log to use as a chopping block.
This elevates the work area which avoids back
strain and makes for easier splitting. Centre the
log to be split on the chopping block, ideally top
2 Line up
Check your stance by touching the log with the axe
to set your body position and distance from the log.
You will need to end up here so make sure the swing is
comfortable – eventually this will become second nature.
up (in the same direction it grew), as it will split Raise the axe and settle it on your shoulder.
more cleanly. Avoid aiming for knots.
 FOCUS ON…
The Head Wedged axe
head delivers
The splitting axe has a wider, wedge-shaped head splitting force,
than traditional axes. It is also quite heavy, and this driving fibres apart.
Wood fibres
weight, when combined with a strong swing, drives run vertically
a splitting force with considerable Newton mass. and parallel
Because wood fibres run parallel to each other, they to each other Axe impact
in logs. creates crack running
separate easily when driven apart, more so when cut through length of log,
in the direction in which they grew. Some wood splits resulting in split.
more readily when green (fresh) than when seasoned.

4 Make the split

If the wood you’re splitting has a long,
parallel grain, it should split easily. You
are aiming to drive through the log, not stop at
the top. If the blade gets stuck, try levering it
out first, or bang the axe and log upside down

3
on the base log.
Take the swing Resting position
You want to achieve a confident, powerful swing, as settles the axe
this makes the task much easier. Grip the haft with between swings and After you finish
allows you to aim
two hands, one higher than the other; the upper hand before swinging. ☛☛Examine the axe Check the axe handle
must start near the shoulder. Watching the log always, and head for damage, such as chinks or
swing the axe forwards and downwards in an arc to strike handle splinters.
the log. Let the weight of the axe do the work. Slide your ☛☛Clean up Wipe the blade clean of any
upper hand down to meet the other near the haft’s end. debris. Store the axe in a lockable workshop
or garage, especially if children are nearby.
Let the weight of the axe do the work.
☛☛Stack the logs Stack your split logs
off the ground in a log store or similarly
dry space with good air circulation.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

“ Y
PEO P L E L O V E C H O P P ING W O OD .
IN THI S A CTIV IT Y O N E IMME D IAT E LY
S E E S RE S ULT S .
ALBERT EINSTEIN
”
 CHOOSING A

Knife
Cutting & Chopping

A knife is an essential part of anyone’s toolkit, although choosing

the right one to fit your needs can often be confusing due to
the wide variety available. If you simply want to make straight
cuts now and again, then a fixed-blade knife will do the
job just as effectively as fancier models with many
different blades. Multitools, however, are ideal to
have with you during outdoor pursuits such as
camping or hiking.

nife
ft k
Cra

“ A SH A R P K N IF E
I S NOTHIN G WIT HO U T

070
071
A SHA R P EYE
”

Mu
ltito
ol “ T HE B E S T KN IF E IS
T HE O N E Y O U HAV E W IT H Y O U
W HE N Y O U NEED IT
”
 Multitool
fe
kni ☛☛What it is Gadget that combines a
rmy
is sA knife with tools such as pliers, slotted and
Sw Pozi screwdrivers, and a serrated blade.
☛☛Use it for General maintenance and
DIY work, camping and outdoor trips.
It’s also handy as an emergency toolkit.
☛☛How to use Press to unlock or slide
to open. If your model has pliers, you may
need to push them out first to use the tool.
☛☛Look for The tool’s primary function.
It may be pliers, rather than a knife blade,
so carefully check options available.

Pruning Knife
Craft Knife ☛☛What it is A curved, folding blade
☛☛What it is A slim, light-duty tool with with a shaped hardwood, plastic, or metal
a sliding blade. Blade tips snap off when handle designed for general garden use.
blunt to expose sharper cutting edge. ☛☛Use it for Grafting plants, removing
☛☛Use it for Crafts and model-making. shoots, stems, pruning. Also cuts string
g Cuts balsa wood, cardboard, and thin and plastic plant ties and compost bags.
foldin sheet plastics, and can trim wallpaper.
a
ble
cta ife ☛☛How to use Unfold the blade until
t r ☛☛How to use it locks into its open position. Carefully
Re lity kn Slide the blade out
uti to reveal the first break-line, lock the wipe clean after use, then close.
handle, and snap off tip with pliers. ☛☛Look for A stainless-steel blade to
☛☛Look for A die-cast metal body, prevent corrosion. Ideally, it should be
which is more substantial and long- compact enough to slip into a pocket.
lasting than cheaper plastic versions.
Retractable Folding
Swiss Army Knife Utility Knife
☛☛What it is A combination knife tool
☛☛What it is The blade retracts into a
that includes two blades, a corkscrew,
a can opener, a screwdriver, and more. sturdy metal body. Tool can be folded to
Pruning knife fit in a pocket. Blades store in the handle.
☛☛Use it for Travel, camping, fishing, ☛☛Use it for General cutting, including
and other outdoor pursuits. It’s also handy
as an emergency household toolkit. plasterboard, roofing felt, vinyl flooring,
carpet, cardboard. Also scoring cuts.
☛☛How to use Select the desired blade
☛☛How to use Unfold the knife so it
or specific gadget and unfold carefully.
Each blade should lock into position. locks in open position. Slide the button to
reveal the blade. Retract blade after use.
☛☛Look for Essential functions.
☛☛Look for Rubber grips for a more
You may never use some of the gadgets
on the most elaborate models. comfortable hold when in use. Blades
in the handle should be easy to access.
 Small button
depresses for
easy blade change.

“ D UL L B L AD E .
Cutting & Chopping

NEVER USE A
IT ’S L IKE LY T O S L IP A N D
C A U S E A N INJ U RY
”

Sprung steel strip

072 Stainless-steel
straight blade with
locks handle in
open position.
073 ground cutting edge. Blade folds away
into handle when
pushed downards.

Two-piece
handle pivots on steel
pin. Enables front
Ridged steel slider
blade holder to Blade folding button to advance or
fold into hollow at pivot retract blade.
rear section.
 UCTURE OF A
Palm grip of STR

Utility Knife
textured rubber Blades
forms top of blade have notches
storage compartment. to fit securely
inside tool.

As its name suggests a utility knife can be used

for everything from cutting rope to scraping hides
and craft projects. A folding model is relatively
Blade storage
compartment open safe because its blade retracts, which protects both
it and its user when it is not needed. In addition,
the die-cast metal body folds in half, so it can be
carried easily and safely in a pocket or toolbox.

OPEN SIDE VIEW

FOCUS ON…
Blade Types
Many blades for utility knives are made of carbon steel, and are
available in a standard format that consists of notches on the
upper edge to fit securely inside the front of the tool. Longer-
lasting bi-metal blades have a spring-steel backing, which
provides some flexibility when cutting and are virtually
unbreakable in use. All blades should be discarded when blunt.
FOLDED SIDE VIEW

Straight retractable blade cuts plasterboard, vinyl

flooring, carpet, cardboard, veneer, craft materials.

Folding blade is more robust. General-purpose knife

used for camping, fishing, hunting, outdoor pursuits.

Textured rubber
thumb grip for
pressure on blade.

Snap-off retractable blade for general craft use and

cutting thin material such as paper, lamp cloth, thin
cardboard, and balsa wood.
 USING A

Utility Knife
Cutting & Chopping

Because of its light weight and portability, this common household tool may seem like the
simplest to use, but a utility knife should always be treated with respect. It packs a very
sharp blade within its small body, so always keep your fingers away from the line of
cutting – especially when holding down a straightedge when trimming items to size.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Stay sharp Make sure the
knife blade is sharp before you start.
A blunt blade is more dangerous than
a sharp one when trying to cut objects.
☛☛Select the right blade Check that
you have the correct type and length
of blade fitted for the required task.
☛☛Check your surroundings Make
sure your work area is tidy. This will
prevent you from slipping or tripping
over items and injuring yourself.
074
075

Angle the blade

away from your
fingers and body
when cutting.

2 Release the blade

Unfold the knife and slide the blade outwards to its full
capacity (depending on thickness of rope). Check that the
blade is locked rigidly in place. Note where your cut-stroke
will be and keep your body and hands away from this line of
cutting. Hold down the rope with one hand, making sure that
your fingers are not too close to where you plan to cut.

1 Position the rope

Measure out the rope, if necessary,
and mark where it needs to be cut.
Choose a stable surface to work on, such
as a desk, table, or workbench, but
“ KEEP A S AF E T Y B L A D E D IS P E N S E R I N
Y O U R T O O L B O X . T HAT WAY T HE R E ’S NO
always use a self-healing cutting mat
to protect work surfaces when cutting.
E X C US E TO USE A BLUNT BLADE
”
 FOCUS ON…
The Cut
A thin edge
A knife’s cutting edge is created by grinding a fine is a sharp edge Material pushed apart
bevel on both faces of the blade. As you use the knife, and receives all by force of energy sent
pressure is exerted on the blade, concentrating it on pressure exerted. down into the blade.
the small surface area of the edge, allowing the bevel
to sever fibres or molecules, forcing them apart. The
sharpest knives are those with the thinnest edges. When
you sharpen a blade, you make it thinner, so the thinner
the steel, the sharper the edge – think razor blade.

Final cut
may be frayed,
so melt or bind
edges if needed.

Bear down
evenly, letting Anchor fingers
4 Finish up
Once you complete the cut, retract the blade
fully into the tool handle in order to avoid
injury. Always store utility and other knives in
a lockable cupboard or a secure toolbox if there
the blade do on the edge of
the work. the cutting mat
are likely to be children around.
for better grip.

After you finish

☛☛Bind the edges To prevent fraying, melt the

3
cut ends of polypropylene rope by heating them
Cut correctly with a match flame.
Gripping the knife in your other hand, draw the ☛☛Dispose of blades safely If you changed
blade carefully across the rope strands with even blades, wrap the blunt one in masking tape to
prevent injury during disposal.
pressure. Pull the blade, rather than using a sawing
motion, and let the pressure through the blade do the ☛☛Inspect the knife Make sure the knife blade
is fully retracted before you put it away. Wipe
work. Do this for as many times as is necessary. down the handle to remove any debris.
 CHOOSING A

Scythe or Sickle
Cutting & Chopping

er
lash
Scythes, sickles, and weed hooks vary enormously. Many ed s
We
are designed for specific tasks, but all are useful and
hard to surpass with machinery. The old ones are often
the best, forged well and ergonomically designed with
durable handles. Hooked blades are
still popular with many
modern craftsmen.

kle
Sic

076
077

ife
t kn
Bee
 Sickle
☛☛What it is Cutting tool with a short
handle for one hand and curved blade.
☛☛Use it for Clearance of plant growth,
or harvesting at close proximity to the user.
☛☛How to use Wearing gloves, swing
tool with one hand to slash plants. Keep
free hand clear, and use a stick to hold
back plants for cutting.
☛☛Look for A high-quality forged-steel
blade and a solid, well-fixed handle. Test
the feel for comfort and weight.

Beet Knife
☛☛What it is Short-handled tool
originally for harvesting sugar beets.
Long, flat, razor-sharp blade with short,
angled spike at the end.
☛☛Use it for General cutting / harvesting,
pointing small stakes, chopping kindling.
☛☛How to use Spike beet or other item
with prong on end, swing up to collect,
then use blade to cut off top. Or use like
hatchet to chop kindling, stakes.
☛☛Look for A blade that’s in good
condition, without too much pitting or
“dents” and “chinks” in the edge.

ed slas
her Long-handled Slasher
a ndl
Lon
g-h ☛☛What it is A hand tool with a long,
strong handle attached to a tough,
straight, or slightly curved blade.
er
sl ash ☛☛Use it for Chopping and slashing
H and course plant material at arm’s length,
particularly thorns and saplings.
☛☛How to use Hold firmly in two hands;
swing powerfully at the base of plants.
☛☛Look for Weighty, forged-steel head
and well-maintained handle if older.

Hand Slasher
Weed Slasher ☛☛What it is Short-handled version of the
weed slasher, long enough for two hands.
☛☛What it is Long-handled, lightweight ☛☛Use it for Getting a bit closer to
tool with a short, rounded-end blade set material than the weed slasher, and for
45 degrees to the handle. denser, woodier plants than a sickle.

“ EFFICIENT ☛☛Use it for ☛☛How to use

Clearing small areas of Use a strong, controlled
EXTREMELY soft-stemmed weeds such as thistles. slashing action, with two hands always on
A good option for organic gardeners. the handle for safety.
CLEARANCE TOOLS, SCYTHES
☛☛How to use Swing using one or two ☛☛Look for A style, shape, and feel
AND SICKLES ARE QUIET hands to cut weeds at ground level. that suit you.

”
☛☛Look for Weighty, forged-steel head
AND SUSTAINABLE and well-maintained handle if older. CONTINUED ☛
 English scythe
Cutting & Chopping

Parang machete

American grass whip

078
079
Modern scythe

English Scythe Parang Machete

☛☛What it is Ergonomic, long-handled ☛☛What it is Indonesian machete, with
cutting tool with very thin, tapering blade distinctive curved blade and heavier
and a simple handle called a “snath”. weight than standard machete.
☛☛Use it for Fine cutting and clearing ☛☛Use it for Cutting dense, woody
great swathes of grass very efficiently. brush and undergrowth; general chopping
and shaping.
☛☛How to use Swing the blade through
the grass in a slicing arc, twisting at your ☛☛How to use Swing from the shoulder
waist as you do so. to connect with wood like an axe.
☛☛Look for Long, new-fitted blades. ☛☛Look for Comfortable grip, good tool
Stable, well-maintained handles. balance, and a sharp, heavy steel blade.
 “ A S O L D AS FAR MING C R O P S , S C Y T HE S
A R E FA S T E R T HA N P O W E R E D S T R IM M E R S ,
A N D D EL IG HT F U L T O U S E
”

Machete

American Grass Whip Modern Scythe Machete

☛☛What it is Long, lightweight ☛☛What it is Shorter handled tool, with ☛☛What it is A long, knife-shaped blade
cutting tool with a hardwood handle a similar shape to a traditional scythe, with a short handle.
and serrated double-edged blade. often with metal handle.
☛☛Use it for Clearing and cutting
☛☛Use it for Clearing tall grass from ☛☛Use it for Slashing soft weeds and brushy material like thorns and saplings.
ditches and other overgrown areas. long grass over small areas.
☛☛How to use Hold in one hand and
☛☛How to use Hold handle with one ☛☛How to use Hold with one hand, swing downwards from the shoulder,
hand, keep swing clear of body and legs. swing blade at ground level, well clear flicking wrist up or down, depending
Swing to cut both ways. of your body. on angle and height of stems to be cut.
☛☛Look for Comfortable grip, good tool ☛☛Look for Correct handle length for ☛☛Look for Correct handle length for
balance, and a tempered steel blade. user height, good weight, and balance. user height, good weight, and balance.
 UC TURE OF A
STR N

English Scythe
Cutting & Chopping

Regardless of the type or model, the scythe is still a strong performer

when it comes to mowing long grass, even when compared with modern
strimmers. Both speedy and silent, it is made of a long, shaped handle,
or “snath”, with adjustable hand grips that allow the handling of it to
be tailored to suit the user. A long, curved blade is mounted at the end. Whole tool

Curved snath
or handle made
of hardwood.

Hook holds the

blade in desired
angle on snath.

080
081 Heel of blade
anchored to
the snath by
a hook.
SIDE VIEW

Blade
released
The tip or toe gathers
Tang slots the blade in the grass to allow
into position in a ring the blade to slice
on top of the snath. through it efficiently.

Steel rib or chine

strengthens the
back of the blade.

Curved blade
should be extremely
sharp. Once dulled, it
may be peened, or beaten
lightly with a hammer,
before sharpening.
 USING AN

English
“ EF FICI E N T
Scythe
A SCYTHE IS A N EX TR EMELY
WAY T O CUT
LONGGR A S S , EV EN IN TO DAY ’S
MECHANIZED WO R LD
” Every scythe must be adjusted to the user for
best results, and for comfortable use. The key
to success is getting your body rotations just
right, performing a smooth arc, and a gentle
shuffle forwards. Maintenance is essential,
including frequent sharpening of the blade.

The Process
Grip ring allows for
adjustment higher or
Before you start
lower on snath, to suit ☛☛Check your surroundings Check the area you’ll be
height of user. working in for large stones and other obstructions, and
exclude people and animals while you work.
☛☛Adjust the scythe Make sure that the blade is sharp,
and the handles have been adjusted to suit your height
and grip.

1
Grip or dole
is positioned at
a right angle
Start slowly
to the snath. The first cuts are the hardest. Hold the blade low and
swing backwards to the right, rotating your body at the
hips. Lightly swing the scythe and practise this action
until it feels comfortable. Begin to shuffle slowly forwards
with each swing. Ensure that the blade arcs in front
of you, cutting in narrow bands.

FOCUS ON…
Cutting Motion
2 Widen your arcs
As you progress, try rocking a little on your feet to
make the arcs wider. Don’t rush, and keep the blade
tilted slightly upwards to avoid hitting the ground. Stop
and sharpen it often, especially when working on rough
The curved design of the scythe has been perfected grass. With the right action, you’ll soon enjoy the job.
over centuries, and it places the hand grips in the
optimal position while at the same time presenting After you finish
the blade at just the right angle. Instead of slashing ☛☛Clean your tool Clean the blade and inspect it
horizontally, a scythe blade cuts in a sweeping arc, for damage. Wipe the handle clean of any debris and
beginning as the operator swings it from his or her check it over for cracks or splits.
right side. As the blade moves left, it is swung under ☛☛Sharpen up Before storing the scythe, sharpen
grass and long weeds, slicing cleanly through the the blade and wipe it over lightly with vegetable oil
stems, and depositing them to the operator’s left. to prevent rust. Replace the blade’s protective cover.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

“ Y
TH E B E S T K NIF E
IS TH E ON E Y O U HAV E

WHEN Y O U NEED
ANONYMOUS
IT.
”
 CHOOSING

Shears
Cutting & Chopping

Lawn shears
There are many different shears for many different tasks,
but the same principle applies to them all: good quality endures
and gives great results, while poor-quality tools frustrate and
break. Hand shears often yield better results than mechanized
versions because they achieve a finer finish. And forged steel
can always be sharpened, while strong handles last a lifetime.

“ G A R D E NE R S
PROFESSIO N A L
USE JA PA N E S E SHEAR S T O
OBTA IN A PE R FE C T FIN IS H
”
084
085

Grass shears
 Japanese Shears
☛☛What it is Shears made of the highest
quality Japanese steel, with long, wooden
handles. Simple, sharp, and efficient.
☛☛Use it for Everything from detailed
topiary trimming and cloud pruning to
hedge cutting and heavier garden
pruning and shaping.
☛☛How to use Grasp handles in both
Topiary shears hands and cut with scissor action. Keep
them clean and sharp.
☛☛Look for Correct blade length for
task: choose short purely for fine topiary,
longer for general use.

Lawn Shears Grass Shears

Japanese shears ☛☛What it is Very long-handled shears, ☛☛What it is A tough, heavier version
with flattened blades set at 45 degrees to of scissors, but with one moving blade
the handle, creating scissor action. and one fixed.
☛☛Use it for Trimming lawn edges not ☛☛Use it for Trimming lawn edges
easily accessed by a mower, such as in corners, cutting herbaceous plants,
under overhanging plants. general tidying.
☛☛How to use Position blades facing ☛☛How to use Use with one hand as
away from you. Use the scissor action to you would scissors, but keep your free
cut grass to lawn level. hand clear.
☛☛Look for Steel blades for sharpening ☛☛Look for A smooth, serviceable pivot
and an adjustable pivot action. A action as well as a size and weight that
comfortable handle length for your height. suit your hand.

Topiary Shears Edging Shears

☛☛What it is Very small, sharp hand ☛☛What it is Long-handled shears
shears, ranging from simple “scissors” with blades set at 90 degrees, facing
to more complex designs. one direction, and touching the ground.
☛☛Use it for Shaping topiary plants ☛☛Use it for Trimming lawn edges
such as box or yew, as well as cutting for a very tidy finish.
back herbaceous plants.
☛☛How to use Keep shears as upright
☛☛How to use Hold in one hand and as possible, move only the handle
cut slowly and carefully with scissor attached to the upper blade, cut left
action to shape material. Keep free to right. Watch your toes!
hand clear.
☛☛Look for Best-quality material
☛☛Look for Steel blades that can be and construction and the correct handle
sharpened, and the right size handles length for your height – particularly
that feel comfortable in your hands. important if you’re very tall or very short.
Edging shears
 CTURE OF
STRU

Topiary Shears
Cutting & Chopping

Hand topiary shears are simple tools for the close and precise pruning and finishing of
topiary shapes, as well as for other delicate clearing and maintenance tasks. The simplest
models are made from a single piece of high-quality sprung steel, and can be very sharp
and durable. A wide mouth allows for efficient trimming.
TOP VIEW

Blades are clean Painted edge

and smooth on the on some blades
inner cutting edge. protects them
from corrosion.

086
087
Rivet holds blades
in place, though some
models are single-
forged without
separate blades.

Each blade sharpened

to fine edge on one
side only.

Corresponding
blade face is
absolutely flat.
VIEW
SIDE
FOCUS ON… USING
The Springs
Although topiary shears are a simple tool in construction terms,
there are a range of complex forces at play in their operation. Topiary
Shears
The spring loop within the handle not only provides the scissor
action up and down, but a second spring force draws the
overlapping flat blade edges together. This ensures that the
cutting edge stays tight from base to tip, enabling it to deliver
a steady, clean cut with minimal effort.

Topiary shears are best used on fine foliage

such as box and yew, and are designed for
Looped handle
creates the spring routine tidying as well as fine detail work
that operates the over small areas. They are also useful for
blades, pushing
them tightly together. trimming ornamental grasses, lavender,
and soft herbaceous plants in borders.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Inspect the blades Carefully check that the blades
are sharp by cutting a piece of paper. Sharpen if needed.
Look for damage. Check the scissor action is smooth.
☛☛Protect your hands These shears are very sharp, so
wear gloves with a good grip and be conscious of where
your free hand is at all times.

“ TOPI ARY SHEA R S A R E

FOR F INE F IN ISHIN G , A N D F O R
G R E AT
1 Plan your approach
Plants used in topiary often cut better on a cool, dewy
morning, when the moisture content makes the foliage
soft and more pliable. Begin by contemplating the desired
REGULAR M A I N TE N A N CE
effect, and have a target shape or form in your mind
before making the first cut.

”
2
THROUGHO U T THE Y EA R
Make the shape
Work confidently, taking off less than you initially
planned overall. Snip at the soft growth methodically,
gradually creating the required shapes. Remember to step
back and check results often, making corrections as you
work. Remove cut debris as you go.
Handle is comprised
of single piece of
shaped steel. After you finish
☛☛Clean up Clean any debris off your shears and
check for damage. Sharpen them if required, and
carefully apply a layer of vegetable oil for protection.
☛☛Store the shears Wrap the open blades in a thick
cloth for safety, allowing the spring to sit in the resting
position when stored.
 CHOOSING A

Pruner or Lopper
Cutting & Chopping

Lopping and pruning tools vary greatly, but all are made for
cutting plant material. Some, such as loppers, are designed
for thicker branches while secateurs are made for finer urs
ecate
pruning and trimming; others are used for specialist tasks. as ss
For general pruning, one or two tools will do the trick. Byp

ips
sai sn
Bon

088
089

“ S ECAT E U R S
T HE GARDENER ’S BEST
ARE

GO O D PA IR
F R I END. A
LASTS A LIFETIME
”

s
issor
de n sc
Gar
 Bonsai Snips
“ THE PU R PO S E O F P R U N IN G IS
TO I M PR O V E THE QU AL IT Y
☛☛What it is Like scissors with large
handle loops; unsprung with sharp blades.

” ☛☛Use it for Specialist bonsai pruning

O F THE R O SES, N O T T O HU RT T HE B U S H. or fine trimming and general use.
FLORENCE LIT TAUER ☛☛How to use Use like scissors.
The large loops in the handle provide
fine control of the scissor action.
☛☛Look for A fine blade with large
handles and a simple action.

r sn
ips Garden Scissors
we
Flo ☛☛What it is Standard scissors that
have been strengthened for garden use,
often with a serrated edge.
☛☛Use it for Cutting string, plastics, and
fleeces. Useful for harvesting cut flowers
and for dead-heading.
☛☛How to use As you would general
scissors, but don’t overwork them in
place of secateurs.
☛☛Look for Stainless-steel body coated
with plastic to protect from the elements.
Strong pivot action and large handles.

Flower Snips
☛☛What it is A fine hand tool with a
scissor action and pointed cutting teeth.
☛☛Use it for Cutting flowers for floristry,
dead-heading garden plants, and fine
pruning of bonsai plants.
☛☛How to use Snips are very sharp and
work much like scissors. Follow secateur
guidelines when pruning.
☛☛Look for A clean and simple action,
s forged to a high standard. Japanese
t eur models are some of the best.
il seca
Anv

Anvil Secateurs
☛☛What it is Common secateurs with
Bypass Secateurs one sharp cutting blade that cuts plant
material against a flat anvil.

☛☛What it is Professional secateurs with ☛☛Use it for General pruning and

a curved cutting blade and a hooked anvil cutting of woody material in the garden.
that passes the blade to make the cut. A cost-effective tool.

☛☛Use it for General pruning in the ☛☛How to use With blades open wide,
garden, propagation, and many cutting use the scissor action to cut through
and trimming tasks. plant material. Do not twist.

☛☛How to use The bypass action ☛☛Look for A metal body rather than
produces a fine, clean cut. Open blades plastic and a blade that touches the anvil
fully and cut, but don’t rock if too thick. completely for a clean cut.

☛☛Look for Best quality. Metal body,

adjustable action, replaceable blades. CONTINUED ☛
Cutting & Chopping

Anvil lopper

“ BECAU SE O F THE HA R D , W O OD Y N AT U R E O F T HE
M ATER IA L T HEY D EA L WIT H, L O P P E R S C A N B E A M O N G T HE
FI RST TO O LS TO LO S E T H E IR E D GE . K E E P T HE M
SHA R P F O R O PTIMA L P E R F O R M A N C E
”
 Bypass Lopper
☛☛What it is A long-handled lopper
with a bypass cutting head; comes in
a range of sizes.
☛☛Use it for Good, clean cuts
when pruning thick, woody material.
☛☛How to use Push stems deep
into jaws, compress the handles.

Bypass lopper ☛☛Look for Forged steel heads and

blades, mounted or forged into the
long handles.

Anvil Lopper
☛☛What it is The workhorse lopper.
Like anvil secateurs, this tool has one
sharp blade that crushes plants onto
an anvil.
☛☛Use it for Tough, grubby, hard-
clearance jobs. Robust, so good for
cutting roots, hedge stems, and suckers.
☛☛How to use Open handles wide,
push the material as far back into the
teeth as possible. Do not twist side-to-side!

“ L O PPE R S TA CK LE D E N S E , WOODY
M ATER IA L , A N D THEIR LON G R E A C H O F T E N
☛☛Look for A simple mechanism.
Over time this results in less wear and
less play in the tool.

REPLA CES THE NEED FOR A L A DD E R

” Long-handled Lopper
☛☛What it is A lopper / pruner with
a very long shaft and a variety of cutting
heads and operating handles.
☛☛Use it for High pruning of small
branches in trees, particularly fruit trees.
☛☛How to use Reach high to the
desired branch, ensure loppers are
placed well, then make the cut. Don’t
try to cut anything too thick or the tool
blades may get stuck.
☛☛Look for A simple mechanism
throughout and a strong cutting head.
Lightweight build for ease of use.

Long-handled lopper
 Spring creates
scissor action and
opens the blades.
Cutting & Chopping

Pivot bolt
should be oiled
periodically for
maintenance.
SIDE VIEW

Cutting blade
precision-made and
very sharp. Sharpen
092 on one side only.
093

Locking lever
should be adjusted
Bypass blade is honed so that it doesn’t
Reverse side flat on one side and lock-on freely.
of blades
the top, allowing for
a precise cut.
 CTURE OF
STRU

Bypass
Bright handle
colours prevent
loss when in
the garden.
Secateurs
Quite simply the best and most versatile pruning
tool for gardeners, bypass secateurs have a sharp,
curved blade that passes accurately by a curved
anvil section. Ergonomic handles that easily lock
and open effortlessly make for easy use.

“ PRODUCIN G C LE A N C U T S ,
FOCUS ON…
Secateur Shapes
BYPASS SECATEU R S A R E T HE
IDEAL CHO ICE FO R A CCU R AT E
AND FIN E PR U N I N G O F Secateurs come with a range of heads and handles. Try them
out before you buy, either in a shop or garden centre, or ask your
TREES AND SHR U BS
” gardening friends if you can try theirs. Some are designed for tight
work, some for repeated tasks, some for durability over accuracy.

Bypass Bypass heads

are the most accurate
secateur type. They are
also very strong. Some
models come with
adjustable grip widths.

Anvil The anvil head is

tough and durable, but
less accurate. Its cutting
blade presses onto a
Handles are metal anvil like a knife
ergonomically shaped onto a chopping board.
and often covered with
vinyl or plastic for
softer grip.

Flower snips Snips are

useful pruners to have
for delicate stems.
The sharp, narrow
blade is perfect for
fine pruning or
dead-heading flowers.
 USING

Bypass Secateurs
Cutting & Chopping

Bypass secateurs are the gardener’s best option for the fine and accurate pruning of
anything woody up to 25mm (1in) thick. The simple but strong design means that they
are able to slice cleanly through plant material with ease. Although secateurs are usually
right-handed, left-handed options are available, as well as a range of handle sizes.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Check the blade Make sure that the blade is
clean and sharp; the task will go more smoothly
if it is, and a clean blade won’t spread disease.
☛☛Try the action Ensure the action of the
blades is smooth, and that the lock is not loose.
Adjust as required.
☛☛Get a carrier A holster is very useful for
keeping secateurs to hand when working in the
garden; if not, use a bucket, tool-belt, or apron.

094
095

1 Assess the plant

Before you begin pruning, research the plant
if necessary to assess its particular pruning
needs – you need to know how much to take off
and when as well as where. Decide where the 2 Get in position
When pruning to a dormant bud position, the blade should
be positioned above and at a slight angle close to the bud,
first cut should be located. Aim to prune back with the bypass blade on the other side of the stem to avoid
to dormant buds or close to roots. snagging the bud. Position the stem to the rear of the jaws so
maximum leverage can be achieved. This will also give the
tightest and cleanest-possible cut.
FOCUS ON…
Bypass Action Stem growth to be
pruned is excess
Good secateurs reflect the quality of engineering foliage growth. Cutting blade
and materials used, and should work like a pair of should come down
scissors, with one blade passing the other to make onto plant stem.
a slicing cut. Plant material sits in the groove Angled cuts
between the cutting blade and curved bypass blade. allow water to
The extremely sharp cutting blade is then drawn down run easily Dormant bud
through the material, gliding past the bypass blade off plant. should be left
and shearing the plant material in the process. undamaged by cut.

Clean cut
should be at
angle with no
ragged edges.

3 Make the cut

With a firm and steady hand, make the cut,
which will be smooth and clean if the blades are
sharp and well adjusted. Do not be tempted to rotate
the handles or twist sideways if the plant stem is too
4 Close and lock
Once you have made the cut, squeeze the handles
again to close the secateurs. Most models have a
locking mechanism to keep the blades closed safely.
Simply press the locking mechanism with your thumb
tough. If you do, you will damage both the plant so that it turns and holds the blades together. Keep
and the secateurs. blades closed whenever they are not in use.

“ B Y PA S S SECATEU R S
A R E T HE BEST CHO IC E
After you finish
☛☛Clean up Wipe down both blades and
disinfect them if necessary to ensure cleanliness
after use. Great results can be achieved by
F O R PR U N IN G LI V I N G washing secateurs in a dishwasher. Wipe them
over with a drop of vegetable oil afterwards
PLA N T T ISSU E, D U E T O before locking them closed.

T HEIR CLEA N , S HA RP ☛☛Stow them away Store the secateurs in

a safe place, but one that is easy to access as

”
you go out into the garden.
CU T T IN G A CTIO N
 IN TA I N T O O L S F O
MA R Tools Inspection

Cutting & ■ Wipe down handle and

Cutting & Chopping

blade to remove any

debris after use

Chopping Saws

A blunt edge cannot make a clean cut and makes ■ Check handle for damage
after use, including splits
the task difficult and even dangerous. Maintenance or fractures
of these tools is essential and can be satisfying.
Axes ■ Check for play in axe head,
causing it to wobble
slightly or even slip off
SHARPENING BLADES ■ Check cutting edge for
Most tools have a simple edge, which dents, nicks, and blunting
is easily sharpened. Little and often is
best, combined with correct use. ■ Check that blade is sharp,
as blunt knives are not

1 Check blade
Blades with a single edge,
without teeth or serrations can Knives
safe. When using, if
a blade is not working as
you expect it to, it’s not
easily be kept sharp, and must be sharp enough
inspected for nicks or warping. ■ Look for damage to blade
Note if the blade is has a bevel on

096 one side or both.

097 2
■ Scythes and sickles are
Sharpen blade Check edge best maintained while you
Using a sharpening stone, fine file, diamond
Scythes &
of knife blade is work, and therefore the
sharpener, or similar, carefully run the stone or sharp before use. extra tasks are infrequent
file along the blade. Follow the angle of the edge,
moving the stone from the outer edge into the blade.
Sickles Check blades for damage,
■

including little dents or

3
missing chunks
Finish edge
Several strokes with a sharpener after each use are usually
enough. More filing may be needed after time to improve the angle.
In this case, remove burrs (raised ridges) in the edge with a final ■ Shears rely on scissor
stroke of the file on both sides. action to work well, so
check if mechanism

Shears
needs adjusting
TREAT WITH CARE ■ Check blades for sharpness
Saws are vital for many tasks, and the sharper the teeth edges, the
cleaner and more accurately they cut. Sharpening individual teeth
is time-consuming, but careful use can reduce the need for this.

Cut clean ■ Check mechanism is

Saw teeth are blunted by dirt, grit, stones, and sheet materials. working smoothly and
Avoid cutting dirty material like roots, laying saws on the ground,
or accidentally cutting into soil. Wash any dirt off immediately. Loppers & ■
adjust if necessary
Inspect blades for sharp
Cut sharp
Care is needed with a sharp saw, but struggling with a blunt saw
Pruners edge, and for damage to
edge caused, for example,
by catching wire or stones
can cause accidents. It also makes for poor cuts in woodwork,
and in the garden using a blunt pruning saw reduces plant health.
Cleaning/Oiling Sharpening Joint Care Storage
■ Wash dirt from saw teeth ■ Usually only teeth on ■ Loose handle on traditional ■ Keep storage area clean and dry to prevent rust
with water and dry traditional handsaws can saw can be tightened if ■ If you can’t hang your saw, keep it in a toolbox or
■ Use fine wire wool to be resharpened – hacksaws fitted with screws drawer – make sure the blade can’t be damaged
remove light rusting and hardpoint saws cannot by anything that touches it
be resharpened.
■ Unless lacquered, wooden ■ Put a cork or rubber mat at bottom of drawer so
handles and metal blades
■ File edges of each tooth to metal doesn’t rub
should be oiled regularly, create sharp point – keep
angle equal for each tooth ■ Use blade covers when not in use
especially if wood is dry

■ Axes rarely need much ■ Keep shaping or felling ■ Play in head/handle is ■ Store sharp axes with axe-head sheath
cleaning, but they can axes sharp by using a flat usually caused by wooden ■ Store in dry, airy shed but not in heated or exposed
be lightly washed or file or whetstone handle drying out too store – ambient humidity keeps wood hydrated
brushed off much: first, with the head
uppermost, tap handle on ■ Store where head will not fall and cause injury
■ In damp conditions, smear
with vegetable oil to keep floor – then soak head/
rust off surface handle in water to swell
head

■ Keep knives clean as you ■ For best results, sharpen ■ Folding knives need to open ■ Ensure folding knives are clean and always closed
go, and work clean to with a whetstone or smoothly, and not fold too when not in use
prevent blunting of edge diamond stone easily – keep mechanism ■ Use a sheath to protect rigid knives
Use fine wire wool to Sharpen little and often to oiled but clean
A knife, when out working, is best stored in your pocket,
■ ■
■
remove light rust or keep blade keen ■ Ensure locking mechanisms and always there when needed
stuck-on dirt Kitchen sharpeners are function well to avoid
Store knives safely when not in use in a dry place
■

Smear with vegetable oil often a good alternative accidental closure ■

and with edge enclosed

■

to protect blade

■ While working, blade can be ■ Sharpen hooked blades ■ Check scythes are adjusted ■ As it is not used frequently, a scythe or hook is best
cleaned by running a fistful with whetstone with curved for you, the user – any cleaned and then treated with a smear of vegetable oil
of grass down blunt edge or rounded edge – do this discomfort in use is likely before storage – use protective sheath if you have one
to remove build-up little and often while to mean that it is not ■ Scythes are awkward to store, and dangerous if they
■ Alternatively, wipe with a working, to maintain set correctly fall – hang on custom-made hooks in a dry store
wet rag, thick leather razor-sharp cutting edge
■ Store sickles and other hooks in their own box, or hang
gloves, or a stiff brush on dedicated wall hook

■ Wash shears often in ■ If shears are treated well ■ Oil mechanism from time ■ Wipe with vegetable oil, and store safely in protective
clean water to keep cutting they should not need to time sheath to keep edge from damage
edges clean and cutting sharpening; however, if ■ Budget shears often work ■ Large shears like edging shears can be awkward to
action smooth they become blunt, use a loose, and play will develop store and are best kept on a bespoke hook in shed
Remove hard dirt with fine flat file or whetstone on in the “hinge”; tighten and Store hand shears on shelves or in tool bins, but
■

wire wool or wire brush blades lock-off to adjust

■

ensure they are locked shut or put away closed

■ Wash with water, and ■ Only sharpen one edge ■ Most loppers and pruners ■ Using a holster for secateurs is convenient and safe
for small hand tools, of tool if that’s how it allow for subtle adjustment ■ Store tools locked closed for safety and to protect edges
occasionally in dishwasher was designed. to hinge mechanism – set
this so there is no play, but ■ Hang up loppers or store face-down in tool bucket
■ Clean tough dirt with fine ■ Use flat file, whetstone
wire wool or specially designed without great friction
sharpener. ■ Ensure lock mechanism
■ Higher-quality blades may does not keep locking on
be replaceable in use
 Pump-action
screwdriver

Screwdrivers

Cabinet Pozi Stubby Jewellers Electricians Ratchet

screwdriver screwdriver screwdriver screwdriver screwdriver screwdriver

H E T O O L S
T for
Fixing & Fastening
Each toolkit needs a set of screwdrivers and every workshop
needs a vice or clamp to secure work. From putting up shelves to
changing tyres, fixing and fastening tools are everyday essentials.

Scaffolders spanner

Combination Ring-box spanner

open ring box with ratchet drives

Wrenches Socket Slogging C spanner

wrench spanner

Allen keys Alligator Torque Chain

wrench wrench Plumbing wrench Adjustable spanner wrench
 Swing Archimedes drill Forstner bit Countersink bit Twist bit
brace

Lip and spur bit

Cordless
drill
Masonry bit
Hand drill

Flat bit
Bradawl
Drills and Drill Bits

Combination drill Auger bit

Vices

Woodwork
vice
Multi-angle vice
Hand vice Mechanics vice Swivel vice

Clamps
Pincers and Pliers

G clamp

Traditional pincers Combination pliers

F clamp

Spring clamp

Solo clamp
Circlip pliers Side-cutter pliers

Quick-action
clamp
Sash
Cam clamp clamp Electrical pliers Locking pliers
 HISTORY OF

Fixing & Fastening

BOW DRILL EARLY PINCERS
c.40,000 YA

The bow drill was developed in the

Paleolithic period, when a slack
c.3000–1900 BCE Smelting was invented in the Bronze Age, when
many new or improved tools were created, including Bronze replaced
bowstring was wrapped around a the first tweezers, an early form of pincers. wooden sticks.

straight stick. By moving the bow

back and forth quickly, the string Wide ends used
for grasping
rotated the stick, creating enough objects.
friction to start a fire when dry
grass was added at the base.
Early tweezers

EARLY PLIERS BASIC AUGER

c. 3000 BCE

c.1000 BCE
Sticks were probably the earliest An early form of auger for

7000 BCE form of plier-like holders, but

during the Bronze Age, bars of
enlarging holes emerged during
the Iron Age. It consisted of a pipe
Small bow drills were being bronze replaced wooden tongs split vertically, which was joined
used in the Indus Valley
(modern western Pakistan) –
as an early form of pliers, possibly to a crossbar that could be turned
for dental procedures. developed as a response to with two hands. The end was
handling hot objects such either a sharpened half-circle or a
as coals. spoon shape with sharpened edges.

PUMP DRILL
735 BCE–500 CE

“ALL I HAD WAS

The Romans refined the pump drill,
which consisted of a bow-like
A DRILL, AN
crosspiece that slid up and down ELECTRIC
a spindle. Cords attached to the
crosspiece were wrapped around Pushing down on
DRILL. THAT
the spindle. Pushing down on the
the crosspiece
rotated spindle.
WAS THE ONLY
crosspiece rotated the spindle, and the
weight of a flywheel kept it spinning.
MACHINE I
As the cords reversed direction, the Flywheel weight
HAD.”
crosspiece lifted as the drill slowed. kept spindle
JAMES DYSON
spinning steadily.
BRITISH INVENTOR AND
Pump drill INDUSTRIAL DESIGNER
 EARLY VICE NUTS AND SCREWS

1400s
c.500–1500
Craftsmen in medieval times Metal nuts and screws were 26 SCREW
often strapped their workpieces
to trestles or small benches to
developed around this time.
Square and hexagonal nuts and
DRIVES
The number of different ways a screw
secure them. The strap was bolt heads were turned with special or fastener can be turned, ranging
tightened by a craftsman placing box wrenches that were designed to from simple slots to Pozidrivs to the
his foot into a loop under the table. fit snugly onto the heads. five-pointed pentalobe security screw
used in personal computers.

SCREW VICE MONKEY WRENCH

1500s

1800s
Metalworkers began using small screw vices to A refinement of the sliding-jaw wrench, the monkey wrench was developed
secure their workpieces. The vice, which was in the 19th century. Instead of using a wedge, the adjustable jaw was
tightened with a nut and bolt, consisted of a held in position by a screw. This is the forerunner of the modern crescent
hinge, with one jaw fastened to a bench while wrench, which is a much thinner tool.
the other was pulled up to hold the workpiece. Lower jaw
turned by
a screw.

SOCKET WRENCH
1500s

Solid wood
handle.

An early form of socket wrench with a T-shaped

handle was developed in the 16th century, but
each example fitted only a specific size of nut
or bolt. These socket drivers were often used
to wind early clocks.
Early monkey wrench

GEARED DRILL POWER DRILLS

1805

1917

The first geared hand drill was

POWER DRILLS The first electric drill was invented
an improvement on bow and pump
drills because its unidirectional
THEN & NOW by Australian Arthur James Arnot
in 1889, but it was Black & Decker
1916 Black & Decker drill weight: c.10kg
bit could be turned much faster (22lb); cost: £173 / US$230 = that patented the first portable
by the gears. £4,055 / US$5,391 today. pistol-grip drill in 1916. The drill
2017 Cordless drill weight: c.1kg (2lb); had the now-familiar trigger
cost: c.£75 / US$100. switch of modern cordless drills.

IRON CRANKS Early drills weighed

1860

ten times that of

today’s models.
The commercial introduction of iron
“sweeps” or cranks meant holes Rechargeable
up to 2.5cm (1in) across could be 10KG batteries power
drilled. Two-handed augers were
still needed for larger holes. 1916 1KG cordless drills.

2017 Modern-day
combi drill
 CHOOSING A

Screwdriver
Fixing & Fastening

With an increasing variety of screw patterns emerging

ver
onto the market, it has become more important than dri
ew
scr
ever to match the tip of any driving tool to the screw bby
Stu
head. The blade size should also be considered, as
you can damage the head of the driver if it doesn’t
fit properly. It is best to have several different iver
screwdrivers in your toolkit in order rewdr
t sc
ine
to deal efficiently with a variety of Cab
day-to-day DIY tasks.

iver
r e wdr t fitted
t sc v bi
che dri
Rat h Pozi
wit

het
rr atc
s b it fo
llip er
Phi ewdriv
s c r

r
rive
cr ewd
idriv s
Poz

er
ewdriv
scr
ster
ins te
Ma
er
ewdriv
scr
tion
p-ac
Pum

rs
wd rive
scre
el lers
Jew
 Pump-action Screwdriver
☛☛What it is Spiral-action tool designed
for speed, with interchangeable bits.
☛☛Use it for Rapid insertion of slotted
or cross-headed screws.

“ CORDLESS DRIVERS ARE POPULAR, ☛☛How to use Insert required bit in end
of tool. Select ratchet button and operate
handle with up/down action.
BU T Y O U ’L L A LWAY S NEED ☛☛Look for Adaptors that enable
M A N U AL
”
modern hex bits to be used with this
A S C R E W D R IV E R older-style tool.

Cabinet Screwdriver Ratchet Screwdriver Mains Tester Screwdriver

☛☛What it is A traditional tool with ☛☛What it is Driver with hardwood or ☛☛What it is Slim, insulated slotted
slotted or Pozidriv blade; comes in plastic handle, slotted or cross-headed blade with plastic handle. Detects
several sizes to match screw heads. blade. Often has interchangeable voltage up to 250 volts via built-in lamp.
hex-shank bits, like Pozidriv or Phillips.
☛☛Use it for Inserting or removing ☛☛Use it for Electrical plugs, sockets,
screws in furniture; cabinetmaking. ☛☛Use it for Driving or removing screws and general maintenance work. Checking
with easy change of direction. if mains electric circuits are live.
☛☛How to use Insert blade tip in screw,
turn clockwise or anticlockwise. The ☛☛How to use Insert blade tip in ☛☛How to use Place the tip carefully
handle is designed for increased torque. screw head. Select clockwise or on electrical item. If there’s alive circuit,
anticlockwise drive and rotate handle. the lamp lights up.
☛☛Look for An oval section handle will
not roll off surfaces. Check slotted-pattern ☛☛Look for Hex bit storage in ☛☛Look for Clearly marked voltage
blade tip matches width of screw slot. combination models. rating on the tool.

Stubby Screwdriver Pozidriv Screwdriver Jewellers Screwdriver

☛☛What it is A compact tool with a ☛☛What it is Cross-headed blade ☛☛What it is Miniature blade with metal
short slotted or cross-headed blade, often tip for Pozidriv screws, comes in or plastic handle for precision work. The
interchangeable. Plastic or rubber handle. several sizes. head of handle revolves for greater control.
☛☛Use it for General maintenance. ☛☛Use it for Driving in or removing ☛☛Use it for Electronics, computers,
Working in confined spaces, such as Pozidriv screws. watches; extremely small screws generally.
kitchen cupboards.
☛☛How to use Match blade tip to ☛☛How to use Apply pressure to head
☛☛How to use Match blade tip to screw screw head and rotate. with forefinger. Grip the shaft with thumb
head; rotate clockwise or anticlockwise. and fingers to rotate.
☛☛Look for Avoid mistaking Pozidriv
☛☛Look for A textured rubber handle blade with older-pattern Phillips tool, ☛☛Look for Tools sold in sets, which
to provide greater grip. even though the blade tips look similar. are more economical, with a range of tips.
 “ MAT C H
S C R E W D R IV E R
T HE R IG HT S IZ E O F
B IT T O T HE
S C R E W . O T HE RW IS E IT M AY
Fixing & Fastening

S L IP, D A M A G IN G T HE S U R FA C E
”
Magnetic steel shank
holds Pozidriv bit in place.

Bit, front view

Shaft moves
clockwise, locked
or in anticlockwise
direction, depending
on setting chosen.
SIDE VIEW

104
105
Steel shaft revolves
as handle is turned.

Selector sleeve allows

for three different
rotation choices.

Sleeve slides
to allow end of
shaft to tilt where
access is limited.
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Ratchet
Several bits
can be stored in
end of handle.

Screwdriver
A ratchet screwdriver is faster to use than a
Handle storage,
open view traditional cabinet driver, mainly because less
wrist movement is necessary. Older tool designs
feature hardwood handles with a fixed blade,
while popular combination screwdrivers
Handle is covered with generally provide a standard hex shank holder
comfortable, textured complemented by interchangeable bits that fit
surface to provide a
firm but soft grip. a wide range of screws.

FOCUS ON…
Screws and Drives
Once the only type available, the traditional slotted screw could
be problematic as a screwdriver tip could easily slip out of the
slot. The introduction of cross-headed screws (Phillips and
Pozidriv) meant that it was easier to drive or remove a screw
without damaging the head. Today, there is an increasing number
of specialist screw patterns to choose from, each requiring
a specialist screwdriver bit to fit it correctly.
Removable end cap
unscrews for bit storage.

Screw structure Penetrating point, thread, shank,

countersunk head so screw is flush with surface.

“ S E LE C TI ON
W I TH A G O O D
OF BI TS, A N I N E X PE N S IVE
RATCHET SCR EWD R IV ER CA N Slotted Pozidriv Phillips Security

REPLA C E A MU CH PR ICIE R
SCREW DRIV ER SET
” Torx/hex Square Dual-slotted
Drives The variety of screws ranges from the basic
slotted to those with more specialist drives such as
the tamper-proof security, or one-way, screw.
 USING A

Ratchet Screwdriver
Fixing & Fastening

A combination ratchet screwdriver is particularly versatile, as it can be used for working

with most types of screws. At the end of the shaft is a magnetic holder that accepts standard
hex-shank bits. The tool usually includes storage for several bits in the handle, which are
accessed by unscrewing the end cap – saving storage space and keeping the bits safe.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Choose the screws Check that
available screw gauges and lengths
are suitable for the task. When fixing
timber pieces, screws should be three
times the depth of the thinnest piece.
☛☛Need a pilot hole? Some screws
can be driven without one, although a
pilot hole ensures timber will not split.
☛☛Sink the screw? Decide if you
need a countersink bit to make the
screw head flush with the surface.

Magnetic socket
allows fitting of most
standard hex-shank bits.

Pozidriv bit
with a hex shank.

1 Select bit
Choose a screwdriver socket and bit
that corresponds with the screw type
you want to use. For example, there
are six Pozidriv head sizes (P0 to P5)
2 Fit the bit
Insert the hex-shank Pozidriv bit into the
magnetic holder at the end of the screwdriver
shaft. Bits are identified by a number stamped on
the side. Always replace bits when they start to
and six slotted-head sizes, as well as four show signs of wear, as otherwise they will be unable
Phillips head sizes: 0–4 (0 is smallest). to turn screws effectively and may even strip them.
 FOCUS ON…
The Thread A screw’s thread
cuts into wood,
Each screw has a continuous spiral thread formed bringing excess to
along its length. As the screw is driven clockwise, it the surface as shavings.
cuts its own thread in the material. When the shaft
of the screw rotates, it moves along its axis relative Wood grooves
to the surrounding material. The screw cannot be cut by the thread
withdrawn without reversing this rotation (now anti- now hold the
clockwise). This process prevents any two items that screw in place.
have been screwed together from being forced apart.

Fit the bit

vertically into
the screw head
to begin driving.

4 Turn the screw

Keeping the screwdriver
vertical, drive the screw
home using a twisting action of
the wrist. The greater the wrist
movement, the quicker the screw is
driven into the wood. If required, the

3
screw can be removed by selecting
Line it all up the driver’s anticlockwise rotation Turn clockwise
If required, countersink the hole before and reversing the process. to drive the screw,
inserting the screw. This enables the head to anticlockwise
to unscrew it.
sit flush with the surrounding timber. Insert the
screw tip in the hole and select the clockwise After you finish
rotation on the screwdriver. Alternatively, select ☛☛Check the surface When required, check that all
the lock position on the sleeve to use it as you screw heads are flush with the timber surface by carefully
would a traditional (non-ratchet) screwdriver. running your fingers across the surface. Tighten if necessary.
☛☛Tidy up Detach the bits and replace them in the
handle. Wipe down the screwdriver with a clean, soft
cloth before storing.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

Y
THE
“ A R E T HE

CARPENTER
T OO L S W IT HO U T, W HIC H

PUTS FORTH HIS HANDS TO,

OR ARE THEY AND A L L T H E C A R P E N T RY
WIT HIN HI MS E L F ; A N D W O U L D HE N O T
S M I LE AT T HE N O T IO N T HAT C HE S T O R HO U S E

IS M O R E T H AN
C A BARTOL
HE ?
”
 CHOOSING A

Wrench
Fixing & Fastening

As long ago as the 15th century, rudimentary wrenches

and spanners were used to turn nuts and other fasteners
on cartwheels and armour plates. Modern wrenches
and spanners are used to secure every type of rotary
fastener, from a tiny hex bolt on a bicycle brake
to the nuts that secure
huge wind turbines.
nch
et wre
Sock

110 C-s
p ann
er “ REMEMBER TO INS P ECT
Y O U R S PA N N E R S A N D
111 W R E N C HE S R E G U L A R LY.
DA MAG E D TOOLS
CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO
FA S T E N ING S
”

rs
p a nneves
s i
ox t dr
i n g-b atche
R ith r
w
 C-Spanner
☛☛What it is Single- or double-ended
spanner with C-shaped ends featuring
teeth, pins, or hook.
☛☛Use it for Tightening or adjusting
larger ring-type fasteners or locking rings.
☛☛How to use Ensure all teeth, pins,
or hook are engaged and snug on fastener.
☛☛Look for Correct-sized tool. A wrong
size could damage the fastener.

Ring-Box Spanner
spann
ers with Ratchet Drives
- box
ion
ring ☛☛What it is Double-ended ring or box
nat spanner with integral ratchet drives.
bi
Com ☛☛Use it for Fasteners in tight spaces
where less than a quarter turn is possible.
☛☛How to use Fit ring end over fastener.
Lever handle back and forth at least one
click at a time.
☛☛Look for Correct size and a snug
fit on fastener head.

l u
P enc
ing
mb h Plumbing Wrench
wr
☛☛What it is Adjustable wrench with
serrated jaws that grip soft pipework.
☛☛Use it for Holding or turning soft
metal pipes, typically copper or soft iron.
☛☛How to use Close moving jaw on
Socket Wrench pipe. As leverage is applied to the handle,
the jaw locks tighter on the pipe.

☛☛What it is Cylindrical socket ☛☛Look for Ensure pipe is clean

with 6–12 internal flats that engage with and grease-free.
a square ratchet drive on a handle.
☛☛Use it for Fastening nuts or bolts.
☛☛How to use Select correct socket size
Adjustable Spanner
and fit to ratchet driver. Turn fastener and
returning lever at least one click at a time.
☛☛What it is Spanner with jaw adjusted
via a screw to fit multiple-sized fasteners.
☛☛Look for Socket to fit four driver sizes
☛☛Use it for Opening or closing basic
between 6mm and 19mm (0.25–0.75in). or non-hexagonal fasteners.
☛☛How to use Tighten jaw on fastener,
Combination Ring-Box ensuring the movable jaw is forced into,
not away from, the direction of rotation.

Spanners ☛☛Look for A tight fit on flat sides

of fastener; otherwise there is a risk
of rounding off bolt head.
☛☛What it is Open spanner at one
e end with ring or box end at the other.
abl
d j ust er ☛☛Use it for Rotary fasteners where
A nn
spa there is room for a quarter turn.
☛☛How to use Place either end on
exposed nuts.
☛☛Look for A snug fit on the fastener.
CONTINUED ☛
Fixing & Fastening

nch
wre
ue
Torq

h
wrenc
ga tor
Alli

112
113
r
panne
ffold s
Sca

ch
ren
nw
Chai
 Torque Wrench Scaffold Spanner
☛☛What it is A ratchet with ☛☛What it is Fixed-head socket with
a handle that incorporates various a fixed or articulated socket at one end.
torque-measuring elements.
☛☛Use it for Work on many same-sized
☛☛Use it for Fasteners needing a fasteners, such as scaffolding brackets.
measured amount of torque to ensure they
do not come undone or damage threads. ☛☛How to use Fit socket over hand-
tightened nut. Turn bar a quarter to a half.
☛☛How to use Select correct socket to
☛☛Look for An articulated socket head
fit the drive, ensure threads are dry, and to reach fasteners in inaccessible places.
tighten until required torque is reached.
☛☛Look for “Click-type” wrenches,
which give an audible click to let you
know when correct torque is reached.
Chain Wrench
☛☛What it is Self-tightening chain or
Alligator Wrench strap with a driver used with a ratchet bar.
☛☛Use it for Tight gripping of
☛☛What it is Multi-use wrench with an cylindrical automotive oil filters.
open jaw that is flat on one side and with ☛☛How to use Wrap the chain around
stepped series of teeth on the other. the middle of filter, turn driver until tight,
☛☛Use it for Working on basic machines then use the ratchet to turn the filter.
and tools with square nut or bolt heads. ☛☛Look for Clean oil and dirt from the
☛☛How to use Use tooth that sits most filter before fitting the chain.
tightly in jaw. Turn wrench as desired.
☛☛Look for This is a rudimentary
“heritage” tool – more for show than go. Allen Key
☛☛What it is L-shaped bit that fits
recessed hexagonal fasteners.
☛☛Use it for Usually smaller-sized
s fasteners on machinery and furniture.
key
Alle
n ☛☛How to use Insert the key fully
into the recess.
☛☛Look for The Torx type is designed
r for use with power tools.
nne
spa
ng
g ri
Flo
ggi
n
Flogging Ring Spanner
☛☛What it is Heavy-duty wrench with
an open spanner at one end and a block
at the other for striking with a hammer.
☛☛Use it for Heavy bolts or nuts that
require torque figures best achieved by

“ FI T
striking the wrench with a sledgehammer.
A LWAY S CHEC K F O R A S N UG ☛☛How to use If fastener has alignment
marks, screw down by hand, then strike
– IT IS E S S E NT IA L the wrench until the marks line up.

TO CHO O SE THE C O R R E C T S IZ E O F ☛☛Look for Strike it as squarely as

possible when tightening or releasing.
WR E N C H F O R T HE J O B , TO
AV O ID D A MA G IN G T HE FA S T E N E R S ,
THE P IPES, OR Y OU RS E L F
”
 Two-way switch switches Pivot and detent
ratchet drive between ball momentarily
clockwise and anticlockwise. releases drive head
when torque setting
is reached.
Fixing & Fastening

Square drive bit

has 6–19mm
(0.25–0.75in)
drive sizes for use
with appropriate-
sized socket sets.
Flat half of shaft
is not designed to be
used as handle.
VIEW
TOP

114 Hollow shaft exerts

leverage on fastener and
115 can be of varying lengths.

Ratchet drive
under bit allows
handle to be pumped
without removing
the socket from
the fastener.

“ A T O RQ UE W RE N C H
IS E S S E N T IA L F O R W O R K IN G O N
MA C H IN E S W IT H S O F T O R
”
Ratchet drive,
side view C R U S HA B L E MAT E RIA L S
 UCTURE OF A
STR
Torque markings
like most

Torque
instructions will
give torque values
in both newton
metres (N m) and
pound-feet (lb-ft).

Wrench
Pre-loading a fastener using a wrench that
measures torque is the best way to ensure that
a bolt is tight enough without damaging threads
or components. A torque wrench is essential for
Adjustable handle working on machines with soft or crushable
screws in and out to align
with torque settings
materials, such as carbon fibre, or on critical
marked on shaft. components that require high torque settings.

FOCUS ON…
pe s
Torque Wrench Ty
Hand-calibrated, spring-loaded torque wrenches are widely used
but there are other types of torque wrench: beam; electronic or
digital; and T-handle, no-ratchet type. The latter is really a mini
Textured grip torque wrench designed for a single, very low torque setting of
must be used to achieve about 5 N m, which makes it popular for clamping together fragile
required torque setting. carbon-fibre components.

Manual torque wrenches are simple to calibrate by

hand and they are spring-loaded for ease for use.

Lock-nut on end of
handle locks handle
in place at desired
torque setting.

Beam type has a deflecting beam that acts as a

handle, and a fixed indicator to show fastener load.

T-handle type is designed for single or

Nut on end of wrench very low torque loadings and may have
for dismantling tool digital readout.
for maintenance only.
 USING A

Torque Wrench
Fixing & Fastening

Loading a fastener to a specified torque setting is common practice when working with
precision components, or when a loose or stripped nut or bolt could result in a dangerous
failure. A torque wrench works like a standard ratchet wrench and is similarly easy to
use – as long you know the torque setting required for your project.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Check loading Take a careful
note of the required torque setting
for the fastener involved, either
from the workshop manual or as
marked on the fastener itself.
Make sure the handle
☛☛Choose torque measure Torque matches the torque
settings may be given in newton scale you require–
metres (N m), pound-feet (lb-ft), either N m or lb-ft.
or both. Often the figure will have
a small amount of leeway either side.
☛☛Keep it clean To load the
116 fastener accurately, make sure
the threads are clean and free
117 from grease or excess oil.

2 Dial it in
The wrench should have
been stored with the rotating
handle screwed outwards. Undo
the locking bolt on the end and
screw in the handle until the
leading edge aligns exactly

1
against the required torque
Select correct socket setting. Double-check you are
Check size of drive, from 6–19mm using the correct N m or lb-ft
(0.25–0.75in), and select correct size scale on the barrel.
Lock the
socket for the fastener. Automotive bolts handle again to
or screws may need a hex or Torx bit. secure settings.
Push the socket firmly onto the square
drive until it clicks into place.
 FOCUS ON…
Torque
Pushing from the
Torque measures rotational force: how much force on end creates most rotation,
an object causes it to rotate around a pivot point. In and therefore most torque.
this example, the pivot point is the nut or bolt, and
the force comes from your hands and arms via the
torque wrench. The longer the distance from the force
to the pivot point, the greater the torque exerted – Screwing
which is why it’s easier to turn a stuck nut by using down a nut
the end of a wrench rather than the middle. relies on torque.

4 Get the setting right

When the desired torque setting is reached,
you should hear a “clunk” sound from the
head of the wrench, which will also give a little.
Remove the wrench from the fastener.

3 Load it
Screw the bolt in by hand until snug. Check
that the switch on the back of the ratchet is
locked in the correct direction. Fit the socket
Tighten the bolt to
full torque but no
further. Take care not
to overtighten as it
could damage the
When you have finished
☛☛Unlock
your toolbox.
Release the socket and return
it to its appropriate place in its case or in

onto the fastener and, holding the adjusting threads or bolt. ☛☛Undo Release the locking nut on the
handle, slowly tighten the bolt. The handle end of the handle.
may need to be pumped while the ratchet ☛☛Unscrew Screw out the handle until
gently ticks on the return stroke. you can feel the tension release on the spring,
to a point where it exerts minimal pressure on
the internal spring and mechanism. Always
store it this way.
 CHOOSING A

Drill &
Drill Bit
Fixing & Fastening

Though they are not perhaps as efficient as

their powered counterparts, specialist bits
are still available for traditional, reliable
hand drills – so you can experience
their satisfying whirr, or feel the
brute force of a swing brace.
However, for tasks in which time
and torque are key, cordless power
drills really do fit the bill.

118 dril
l
119 Han
d

“ CO N V EN IEN T, R E L IAB L E , A N D Q U IE T,
A MA N U A L D R IL L C A N B E A PA RT IC U L A R LY
S ATI S F Y ING T OO L TO USE
”
l
daw
Bra

ce
g bra
Swin
 “ T HIN K A B O U T IT:E V E RYT H ING
W IT H A P OW E R C O RD E V E N T U A LLY
W IN D S U P IN T HE T RA S H .
JOHN SARGE, TIMBER FR AMER
”

ill
des dr
h ime
Arc

Hand Drill
☛☛What it is Toothed hand wheel that
meshes with smaller gears on steel or
aluminium frame to rotate chuck. Has
self-centring chuck, hardwood handle.
☛☛Use it for Drilling holes in most
materials up to 9mm (0.35in) in diameter.
Good for small holes in delicate surfaces.
☛☛How to use Insert twist bit in jaws
and tighten chuck. Turn side handle to
rotate chuck clockwise or anticlockwise.
☛☛Look for Check all three chuck jaws
are working. Side knob is often missing
from older tools.
Swing Brace Archimedes Drill
Bradawl ☛☛What it is U-shaped steel frame with
removable chuck. Hardwood or plastic
☛☛What it is A small steel or brass tool
with a spiral shaft, a spring-loaded sliding
handle. Most have chuck ratchet action. collar, and a collet (collar-type) chuck.
☛☛What it is Fixed square or pointed
steel blade with hardwood or plastic ☛☛Use it for Drilling deep, large- ☛☛Use it for Model-making; other
handle. Forces wood fibres apart. diameter holes in dense timber where small-scale work. Drilling tiny holes
extra torque is necessary. up to 1mm (0.04in) diameter in wood
☛☛Use it for Making starter holes for
or fragile surfaces.
small screws or larger drill bits instead ☛☛How to use Insert bit in V grooves in
of creating pilot holes. jaws; tighten sleeve. Grip rear handle and ☛☛How to use Insert bit into collet and
swing centre grip clockwise to turn chuck. tighten. Push down end of tool with index
☛☛How to use Position the tip of blade finger; slide collar up and down shaft.
on your pencil mark, holding tool upright. ☛☛Look for Check jaw pattern (two or
Push down and use a twisting action to three) as some braces only accept bits ☛☛Look for Replacement micro drill
make hole. with square taper shanks. bits, as these are easily lost or broken.
☛☛Look for The tip should be sharp,
so use edge of an oilstone, if necessary,
to maintain the point.
CONTINUED ☛
Fixing & Fastening

drill
Cordless

“ FAS T C O RD L E S S
A N D FU R IO U S, A
TOOL IS A R EA L TI M E S AV E R ,
SPE E D I N G U P BO T H T HE D R IL L IN G
AND T HE SCR EWD R IV IN G P R O C E S S E S
”

120
121
rill
bi d
Com

Cordless Combi Drill Cordless Drill / Driver

☛☛What it is Battery-powered tool with ☛☛What it is Two-speed power tool with
an added hammer-action function for rechargeable battery. Chuck revolves
drilling masonry. when motor is activated by on/off trigger.
☛☛Use it for Drilling holes in most ☛☛Use it for Drilling holes in timber,
materials, including concrete and metals, plastics, and similar material.
brickwork. Driving or removing screws. Driving or removing screws.
☛☛How to use Insert appropriate bit ☛☛How to use Insert appropriate bit,
in chuck, select drilling, hammer action, tighten chuck, and select drilling mode
or screwdriving function, choose the and speed. Adjust torque and speed
appropriate speed. for screws.
☛☛Look for A variable-speed trigger ☛☛Look for A fast charger with
aids drilling process. removable batteries. Budget tools
with built-in batteries generally
have a slower recharge time.
 Twist bit

Lip and spur bit

Masonry bit

Flat bit

Auger bit

Drill Bits
☛☛What they are Steel shanks with shaped
cutting tip for creating holes of precise diameter.
May have a full-length spiral (to remove waste) or
a plain shank with a specific cutting head. Most
have a centre point for guidance.
☛☛Use them for Different bits are used to bore
holes in different materials. Lip and spur, flat, and
Forstner bits are used in power drills for timber.
Twist bits fit manual and power drills and are used
for metals and timber. Auger bits make deep holes
in wood at any angle; use in swing braces and
power drills. Countersink bits recess screw heads Forstner bit
flush with surface. Use tungsten carbide-tipped
(TCT) bits for masonry as they are designed for
hammer action.
☛☛How to use Insert in chuck of drill. Tighten
jaws by hand or with key on older tools. Position
tip of bit on surface and check it’s at 90 degrees
before using tool.
☛☛Look for Check drill bit is suitable for
the task: metal, timber, plastic, masonry. Countersink bit
 Sleeve rotates to
open and close chuck.
Fixing & Fastening
TOP VIEW

Speed selector
Mode selector slider above Air vents
rotates to choose casing operates allow motor
hammer/drill/ gear change. to stay cool
screw functions. when drilling.

Variable-speed
122 trigger activates
motor. Max speed:
123 1300rpm.

Textured
soft-grip rubber
SIDE VIEW

handle is
non-slip and
reduces vibration.

Chuck front on
Keyless chuck’s
three self-centring
jaws grip bit as
sleeve is tightened.

Battery
detaches for
charging via
button release.
 UCTURE OF A
STR

“ SAF ER A N D MO R E CO N V ENIE N T
THAN A PL U G -IN EQ U IVA LEN T,
Combi Drill
A CORDLESS CO MBI D R ILL IS The heart of a cordless drill is its brush or brushless
A VERS ATI LE TO O L
” motor, encased in a plastic shell. Metal or plastic
gears create two or three speed settings, controlled
via a trigger. The chuck revolves on a spindle,
driven by the motor. Standard rotary action is
Outer casing
made of plastic,
used for drilling metals, timber, and driving
keeping tool screws; hammer action is for drilling masonry.
weight down.

FOCUS ON…
Sizes
Compact cordless tools are ideal for working in confined spaces
and are much more manageable for those with smaller hands.
However, they’re not as powerful as combi drills with hammer
action. The battery capacity is rated in amp hours (Ah) and is
LED work light generally up to 3.0Ah in 10.8-volt tools. Lithium (Li-ion) batteries
illuminates drilling are more environmentally friendly than older NiCd or NiMH types.
area when trigger
is activated.
Directional
button for 10.8V Combi drill
forward/reverse A lightweight drill
chuck rotation. and powered
FRONT VIEW

screwdriver, offering
drilling and driving
functions with two
variable speeds.
Fine for lighter
work, but not
suitable for heavy
Push-button masonry or concrete.
release for
battery pack.

18V Combi drill

Higher-voltage combi
drills are larger and
heavier, but offer
greater torque for
driving larger screws
into a wider variety of
materials. They also
take bigger-capacity
batteries of up to
5.0Ah or more.
 USING A

Combi Drill
Fixing & Fastening

A combination, or “combi”, drill can be used for virtually any drilling task due to its
additional hammer function. Once the drill is fitted with a tungsten carbide masonry bit,
the combi’s percussive hammer action can tackle concrete, while switching to standard
rotary action makes the tool suitable for wood, metal, and most other materials. And,
because it’s battery powered, the tool can also be used safely outdoors.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Safety Always wear eye
protection and a dust mask – ear
defenders are also a good idea with
sustained hammer drilling.
☛☛Battery Make sure the battery
is charged. A second pack means
you can swap when one is flat.
☛☛Bits If drilling many holes, save
time with a quick-release bit holder to
make switching easy. Secure bit holder
in chuck, then swap bits as necessary.
124
125

2 Insert the bit

After you’ve selected a twist bit of the correct
diameter, insert it into the chuck’s jaws and
tighten the sleeve securely. If using a quick-
release bit holder, make sure the bit’s shank
is seated correctly in the chuck before drilling.

1 Mark out a guide

Using a steel centre punch and
hammer, mark the metal. This acts
as a guide for the drill bit and prevents it
“ ONE MACHINE CAN DO THE WORK OF
ORDINARY MEN. NO MACHINE CAN DO THE
50

from skidding during the drilling process.

Make sure the metalwork is secured and
resting on a sturdy, flat surface.
WORK OF
ELBERT HUBBARD
ONE EXTRAORDINARY MAN.
”
 FOCUS ON…
Torque Settings Larger wheel
spins slowly but
Like a car going uphill or pulling a load, you need to with high torque.
change down a gear when using a cordless drill for
certain tasks. A lower speed produces higher torque,
the rotational force required to turn a screw or drill Driver gear
a large diameter hole. Conversely, when drilling in drill turns to
transmit torque
softwood you need high speed and low torque. When Driven gear to driven gear
selected, a large gear transmits torque to a smaller is smaller; spins making it spin faster.
gear, making it turn faster but with less force. at high speed
with low torque.

4 Drill the hole

Place the tip of the drill bit
on the mark and ensure the
drill is held square to the metal.
Squeeze the trigger gently to activate

3
the tool, then increase speed to
Select correct setting complete the hole. Swarf or
Choose the appropriate drilling function by rotating metal debris.
the torque collar to the recommended setting. Select
the right speed for the job: generally, you need a high After you finish
speed for most twist bits, although larger ones may ☛☛File it off There will be swarf (metal waste)
require a reduction in speed because they need around the hole, so remove this with a flat file or
more rotational force – torque – to get them moving similar. Wear lightweight work gloves so you
don’t pick up any metal splinters.
(see box, above).
☛☛Clean it up Remove all drilling debris from
the drill carefully, making sure it does not enter
the tool’s cooling vents.
 CHOOSING A

Vice
Fixing & Fastening

A vice is a basic necessity for anyone interested

in or about to start using hand tools. Installed
on a bench, it’s a sturdy device that is designed
for holding items securely, whether you’re
working with wood, metal, or plastics.
A smaller, portable vice can be fitted virtually
anywhere and may be the solution if you don’t
have a dedicated workspace.
Mechanics vice

“ LI NE JAWS WIT H HA R D WO O D FA C IN G S
TO PREVENT VULNERABLE
SURFACES BECOMING DENTED
”

Woodwork vice

Swivel vice
 Hand vice

Swivel Vice
☛☛What it is Portable tool similar to
mechanics vice, with clamp for fixing
to table. Jaws rotate through 90 degrees.
☛☛Use it for Angling small items when
soldering, wiring, sawing, model-making.
Useful where work space is tight.
☛☛How to use Clamp vice to bench,
then release base locking levers. Swivel
to desired position and retighten.
☛☛Look for Check that the clamp’s
capacity is sufficient for the thickness
of the table it clamps on.

Mechanics Vice Multi-angle Vice

☛☛What it is Heavy cast-iron vice ☛☛What it is Lightweight cast-alloy tool
screwed to workbench, with serrated jaws, with clamp adjuster for fixing to table.
rear anvil. Some models can be rotated. Jaws tilt to any angle, rotate 360 degrees.
☛☛Use it for Gripping pipes, cylinders, ☛☛Use it for Greater access to smaller
and square workpieces. Its high jaws items when soldering, wiring, sawing, and
make it possible to cut rods or bars model-making.
without fouling saw blade.
☛☛How to use Clamp to bench, then
☛☛How to use Slacken off the jaws, slacken rear tommy bar. Swivel jaws to
position the workpiece in them and desired position and tighten front bar.
tighten firmly with the tommy bar.
☛☛Look for Some plastic jaw facings
☛☛Look for Rubber facings to clip over can sometimes work loose easily.
the jaws to protect vulnerable surfaces
when tightening.

Hand Vice
Woodwork Vice ☛☛What it is Narrow tool, with
☛☛What it is A heavy-duty, cast-iron forged-steel jaws hinged at base.
unit screwed to underside of workbench. Tightened via spring-loaded wing nut.
Multi-angle vice Big-capacity jaws with large surface area. ☛☛Use it for Gripping very small items
☛☛Use it for Planing timber or holding such as jewellery before grinding, filing,
workpieces horizontally or vertically. drilling. Also mounts in regular vice jaws.
General-purpose work-holding. ☛☛How to use Grasp in hand, position
☛☛How to use Open jaws with the component, and tighten jaws with wing
tommy bar. Hold workpiece in place nut on threaded bolt.
while tightening jaws. ☛☛Look for Vertical and horizontal
☛☛Look for A quick-release mechanism V grooves in the jaws for gripping
makes jaws faster to open and close. circular items.
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Mechanics Vice
Fixing & Fastening

At its most basic level, a vice consists of a pair of

hardened steel jaws that are adjusted by a lever to grip
a workpiece tightly. Heavy-duty versions are made of
cast iron, while smaller, lighter, and more portable vices Anvil,
top view
tend to be of cast-alloy construction. A swivelling base
is useful, as it makes the tool much more versatile in Anvil behind rear
jaw for small-scale
terms of its work-holding capacity. hammering tasks.

“ BU Y T HE ST U R D IEST, H E AV IE S T
VI CE Y O U CA N A FFO R D , T HE N
FI T IT TO A SO L ID B E N C H
”
128 U-shaped channel

129 slides through

opening in body.

Fixing holes
around base
for bolting vice
to bench top.

FOCUS ON… Locking bolt

How It Works
allows base to
swivel and lock
in position.
Different vices operate in slightly different ways.
On a woodworking vice, dual steel bars either side
of a central screw thread guide the jaws, preventing
them from racking and keeping their faces parallel.
A mechanics vice also uses a screw thread, but
in these models a substantial square-sectioned,
U-shaped steel channel is used to guide the front
jaw. This passes through a square opening on the Locking bolt,
cast body of the vice to maintain rigidity. top view
 Jaw faces USING A

Mechanics
are cross-hatched
to increase grip.

Vice
Position is important when installing a
heavy-duty vice permanently on a bench.
A right-handed worker will find it most
convenient on the left side and vice versa.
A portable vice can be easily repositioned.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Prepare the jaws Clip on hard rubber/aluminium
vice jaws to protect timber or softer materials, if needed.
SIDE VIEW

Magnetic strips are usually included to secure to jaws.

1 Check the screw

Make sure the screw mechanism is operating
smoothly and lightly oil the thread if it seems
at all sluggish.

2 Adjust the jaws

Adjust the jaws to open slightly greater than
the workpiece thickness. Hold the workpiece
in position and tighten the front jaw by turning the
handle in a clockwise direction.
Screw thread

3
mechanism hidden
beneath channel. Position the base
Rotate the jaws to the most convenient working
position if the vice is equipped with a swivel base.
This is done by slackening off two small locking bolts
on either side of the base, altering the vice’s angle to
Steel handle your desired position, then relocking the bolts.
or tommy bar
used to adjust
front jaw.
After you finish
☛☛Clean the vice Use a cloth to wipe down the
vice, removing any wood shavings, grit, or metal
Handle caps swarf from exposed screw threads.
prevent handle bar
from slipping ☛☛Give it some oil Put some machine oil on all
out of hole. moving parts of the vice to maintain smooth action
of the jaws and to prevent rust.
 CHOOSING A

Clamp
Fixing & Fastening

There are probably as many types of clamps

available as there are tasks for them to do.
Whether you want to glue timber components
together, hold metalwork in position for welding
or brazing, or simply grip items on the workbench,
you’ll probably need several of these essential
items in your toolkit.
mp
cla
Cam

p
lam
Gc

mp
h cla
Sas
130
131
“ YOU MAY NEED MORE THAN
ONE OF THE SAME TYPE OF
CLAMP FOR A PROJECT
”

mp
cla
ion
act
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Qui
 F Clamp
☛☛What it is Serrated steel bar with
one fixed and one sliding jaw, threaded
rod with clamping shoe, wood or
plastic handle.
☛☛Use it for General-purpose, heavy
clamping tasks. Long bars available, so
p greater depth capacity than G clamps.
lam
Fc ☛☛How to use Position clamp and
slide lower arm up to workpiece. Rotate
handle to tighten.
☛☛Look for Plastic covers on steel shoes
to prevent damage to softer surfaces.

Quick-action Clamp
☛☛What it is Steel bar with fixed,
high-density plastic jaw at one end.
Opposite jaw slides along bar.

G Clamp ☛☛Use it for Any situation where

single-handed clamping is necessary.
Faster to use than G or F clamp.
☛☛What it is Heavy forged-steel clamp.
☛☛How to use Position clamp around
Threaded rod adjusts capacity and pressure.
workpiece and squeeze trigger. Reverse
☛☛Use it forHeavy-duty clamping tasks jaws on larger clamps to act as spreader.
where maximum pressure is required.
☛☛How to use Position clamp shoes on
☛☛Look for Rubber or plastic shoes on
jaws to prevent denting delicate surfaces.
work, tighten with button or tommy bar.
☛☛Look for A tommy bar on larger
clamps applies extra pressure.
Solo Clamp
Sol
o cla
mp Cam Clamp ☛☛What it is Ribbed steel frame with
combined handle/lever. Rod runs through
frame with plastic clamping shoe attached.
☛☛What it is Lightweight hardwood
jaws (one fixed, one sliding) on steel bar. ☛☛Use it for Quick clamping tasks that
A cam-action lever applies the pressure. require the use of only one hand.
☛☛Use it for Lighter clamping or repair ☛☛How to use Position clamp on work,
tasks such as musical instruments. squeeze lever to advance rod and apply
pressure. Press small lever to release.
☛☛How to use Position clamp above
workpiece and pull lever to apply ☛☛Look for Check that the throat
pressure on sliding jaw. capacity is big enough for larger timber.
☛☛Look for Cork facings on jaws to
protect delicate surfaces.
Spring Clamp
Sash Clamp ☛☛What it is Simple steel or plastic
jaws hinged together. Pivots with
spring action.
☛☛What it is A steel bar with holes
to accept pin to secure sliding shoe. ☛☛Use it for Clamping small or
lightweight items; temporarily holding
☛☛Use it for Gluing together boards or items. Only needs one hand to operate.
panels, irrespective of timber thickness.
☛☛How to use Put pin through shoe ☛☛How to use Squeeze ends together to
open jaws, position clamp on workpiece
hole, arrange boards and tighten adjuster.
and release.
mp ☛☛Look for T-section bars for heavy
cla ☛☛Look for Cheaper clamps may not
ing gluing work resist bowing when tightened.
Spr offer sufficient pressure.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

Y
“ A TO O L IS B U T T HE E XT E N S IO N
O F A M A N’ S H A ND , A N D A M A C HIN E
IS BU T A C O M P L E X T OO L . A N D HE
T HAT IN V EN TS A M A C HIN E A UG ME NT S
THE PO W E R O F A M A N A N D T HE

WE LLB E I N G OF MAN KIN D .

H E N RY WA R D B E E C H E R
”
 CHOOSING

Pincers
or Pliers
Fixing & Fastening

Both pincers and pliers operate on the same ips

e gr
Mol
original principle of two hand-operated levers
joined by a fulcrum at one end. Pincers were
and are used mainly for holding or levering
items such as nails. Pliers have evolved into
a multifunction tool, often with a cutting edge,
available in a variety of designs for many
specialist applications.

“ GRI PPIN G , T WISTIN G ,

CUTT IN G , O R SHA P IN G :
VER S ATI LE
PLI ER S A R E U SED IN
134
135 MA N Y WAY S
”

rs
plie
ion
bi nat
Com
 rs
plie
ter
e- cut
Sid

Combination Pliers
☛☛What it is Universal handyman’s
tool with snub-nosed jaws.
☛☛Use it for Cutting and bending wire,
holding or pulling small items, from bolt
heads to pipes.
☛☛How to use Hold object using jaw
ends; cutting faces are near the fulcrum.
☛☛Look for Cutting faces sharp enough
rs to cut cables without causing them to fray.
pince
tional
adi
Tr
Side-Cutter Pliers
☛☛What it is Pliers designed solely for
cutting, crimping, or shaping materials.
☛☛Use it for Cutting electrical cables
and zip-ties; shaping metal or plastics.
☛☛How to use Make precise and
delicate incisions or crimps.

s ☛☛Look for Tin snips are side-cutting

p lier pliers used to work thin sheets of metal.
clip
Cir
Mole Grips
☛☛What it is Pliers with over-centred
Circlip Pliers
action for holding and gripping. They ☛☛What it is Pliers used for removal
exert more pressure than conventional and fitting of internal or external wire
pliers and operate with a locking function. circlips, often on automotive lines.
☛☛Use it for Exerting a tight grip or ☛☛Use it for Gently prising apart and
lock on anything from a plumbing nut moving spring-loaded circlips.
to an item being welded. Can also be
used as a temporary handle. ☛☛How to use Fit each jaw prong into
circlip rings. Open jaws and ease off.
☛☛How to use Use screw on handle
☛☛Look for Reversible or adjustable
to set limits of jaw; close handles.
models for internal/external circlip use.
☛☛Look for Mole and Vise-Grips are
rs trade names for original locking pliers.
plie
pin
g
Crimping Pliers
Crim
Traditional Pincers ☛☛What it is Pliers with circular cutters
☛☛What it is Steel or iron lever, and one straight cutter for stripping and
fulcrum, and perpendicular cutting jaws. cutting coated electrical cables.

☛☛Use it for Gripping nail heads and ☛☛Use it for Stripping the ends of
electrical cables for wiring to appliances.

“
pulling them free.
USE TH E R I G HT S I ZE ☛☛How to use Grip handles. Once teeth ☛☛How to use Cut cable with flat edge.
are under nail head, gently lever the nail Use side markings to identify cable size.
PLI ERS FO R T HE JO B, N EV ER until it can be pulled out. Clamp cable and pull to strip it.

”
EXTEN D T HE A R MS ☛☛Look for A forked-shaped lever on ☛☛Look for A crimping function for
one handle for digging under a nail head. working on small connectors.
 Steel jaws usually of
high-strength chrome
vanadium steel or
carbon steel.
Fixing & Fastening

Pipe grip serrated

part of jaw for gripping
small pipes in minor
plumbing jobs.
SIDE VIEW

Cable cutter
used for cutting Fulcrum is hinge
things like wire around which
and cable ties. the two levers or
handles pivot.
136
137
Lugs prevent hand
from slipping forwards.

Flat grip has

small serrations
Flat grip, to grip or twist.
front view
TOP VIEW
 CTURE OF
STRU
Curved grips
ergonomically

Combination
shaped for
comfort and
a secure hold.

Pliers
Every toolbox and most multitools contain
a pair of pliers that can be used for many minor
everyday tasks, such as opening a tight bottle
cap, and for more involved jobs like cutting
and shaping wire. Hand-sized and universal in
Plastic grip design, combination pliers last for years, with
over steel
insulates against virtually no maintenance.
electric shock.

FOCUS ON…
Plier Types
Combination pliers are one of the go-to tools in the box, but
because of their versatility they can often be used incorrectly,
either failing to complete the task or even damaging the job.
There are many specialist plier types, some suited for multiple
applications and some for a single specific task.

“ BEND I N G , G R IP P IN G , TWIS T IN G ,
OR PULLIN G … CO MBIN ATIO N PL IE R S
Combi pliers
Highly versatile
pliers with pipe

”
grip, cutter, and
ARE A TO O L K IT E S S E N TI A L flat grip. Some also
have side cutters.

Long-nosed pliers
For delicate and
small-scale gripping
jobs. Available in
various lengths
and designs.

Spring-loaded
small pliers
The spring helps
open the handles
and is very useful
for cutting or
repetitive tasks.
 USING

Combination Pliers
Fixing & Fastening

Because they are easy to use and are suitable for multiple small tasks, using combination
pliers is less about technique and more to do with matching them to the right job – as well
as not demanding more than the tool can achieve. With a good grip on the handles and
a steady hand, you can use a pair of combination pliers to perform many DIY essentials.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Check the task Is this a job for
combination pliers, or would a specialized
tool be better?
☛☛Check the pliers Make sure the Form a hook-bend
by bending a wire
cutting and clamping faces are both
in good condition. around pliers’ jaws.
☛☛Another tool? Often pliers will be used
with another tool, so check that the latter is
the correct type and size for the job.
☛☛Protect your eyes Always wear

138 protective goggles when cutting wire or

metal. Even the smallest piece could do
139 a lot of damage to an eye.

Bending or
splicing wire
Grip the end of the wire
in the flat part of the
pliers’ jaws and gently
twist, allowing the cable
to wrap itself around
the almost-closed jaws.
Cutting wire This technique is useful for
For cutting that doesn’t require a precision making a loop or hook. To
finish, grip the pliers and clamp the splice wires, grip with the jaws and
straight edge onto the wire. Increase twist to form one large, rope-like wire.
Turn wires
the pressure until it cuts through. If that evenly when splicing
isn’t possible, it may still weaken the them so that they
wire enough to be snapped off. twist together.
 FOCUS ON…
Lever Action
Pliers transform a small force applied to two parallel
levers (the handles) through a fulcrum (where the
handles join) to a greater force in the jaws, providing Handles increase
users with a stronger grip on objects than would be force by moving
Opposing forces
possible by hand. The longer the handles, the greater are exerted by the it via the fulcrum.
the force exerted by the jaws. More grip is created handles, so that
closest to the fulcrum, and some pliers have very the grip in the jaws Turning point
or fulcrum.
short jaws to take maximum advantage of this. is magnified.

Pipe grip
works like a
mini-vice.
Pull a cable
through studs
with the
pliers’ grip.

Holding objects with pipe grip

The serrated, semi-circular part of the pliers’ jaws
is known as the pipe grip, and it makes a useful
clamp for bolts, nuts, and small pipes if you don’t
have another specialized tool available. Close the
pipe grip gently around the object and grip it with
one hand while you use a wrench or spanner to
loosen or tighten the corresponding
Pulling or pushing cables nut with the other.
When rewiring electrics, such as plugs or light switches,
you may have to guide cables through walls or studs.
Pliers can grip even the smallest of items securely, so
are ideal for this type of job. Simply grip the end of the After you finish
cable in the flat part of the pliers’ jaws and gently pull ☛☛Inspect your edges Check your pliers
or push it in the desired direction until enough cable is over for possible damage, especially on the
exposed to complete the task by hand. cutting edges.
☛☛Clean your tools Wipe debris or dirt from
the pliers’ jaws. If necessary, add a drop of oil
to the pivot. Store them away carefully.
 IN TA I N T O O L S F O
MA R Tools Inspection

Fixing & ■ Check tip is not bent

or damaged – replace
Fixing & Fastening

Fastening
screwdriver if tip or shaft

Screwdrivers
is bent
■ For cordless screwdriver:
check functions work on
powered models – ensure
battery is fully charged

These tools are simple and robust, needing little ■ Check tool is not bent and
that the flats that engage
maintenance. Keep them free from corrosion and with fastener are not
they will last for many years with little upkeep.
Wrenches
damaged or rounded out
■ Check moving parts,
like barrel adjuster or
CHECKING FOR DAMAGE ratchet mechanism,
With few moving parts and basic design, most fixing and fastening operate smoothly
tools are easy to maintain. Inappropriate use and corrosion can cause
damage to the tool or part acted upon. ■ Check all functions work on
powered models – ensure

1 Impact damage
Take care not to drop the tool and always use it for the
job it was intended for. Drills ■
battery is fully charged
On hand drill check handle
turns smoothly and chuck
is not damaged

2 Rust risk
Steel tools can rust and seize up if left in wet or damp
■ Check drill bits for wear,
damage, or bent shaft
140 conditions. Store in the dry and wipe with an oily rag.

141
3
■ Check closing and opening
Moving parts action of jaws and adjuster
Keep moving parts such as pivots and threaded barrels handle (tommy bar)
running smoothly with a few drops of light machine oil.
Vices ■ If vice is fitted with
quick-release mechanism,
check this works smoothly
BATTERY CARE
Many handheld power tools, and especially drills,
are powered by rechargeable batteries that
have a long service life if looked after. For ■ Check jaws slide smoothly.
extensive use it’s always worth having Replace plastic jaw caps
a fully charged spare. if missing

Charging Clamps
Modern rechargeable battery packs
can achieve a full charge in around
an hour, and are able to power a drill,
saw, or sander where interchangeable.
Make sure the battery is fully charged ■ Check for damage or
before starting each job.
corrosion to jaws – ensure
Storage
After finishing a job, it’s a good idea to return
Spare batteries
let you keep Pincers & ■
pivot operates smoothly
Ensure screw and locking

Pliers
the battery to a full state of charge before working while mechanism operates
storage. This ensures that the tool is ready your other smoothly on locking pliers
for the next job and prevents the battery battery charges.
■ Check for damaged prongs
discharging if levels are low. on circlip pliers
 Cleaning Oiling Adjusting Storage
■ Wipe handle, shaft, and tip ■ Keep in rack or tool box
with dry rag
■ For cordless screwdriver:
keep air vents clean –
remove debris with vacuum
cleaner and check after
any job producing fine dust

■ Wipe exposed metal with ■ A drop of machine oil on ■ For torque wrench, refer ■ Hang on hook or in appropriate sized slot in tool box,
oily rag, or rub down any moving parts, such to service schedule for or drawer in the dry
corrosion with wire wool as a threaded barrel possible recalibration
adjuster, sliding surfaces by trained technician
of jaws, between ratchet
collar and spanner head,
or on all mechanisms of
socket wrench

■ Keep air vents clean – ■ Apply machine oil to ■ Keep cordless drill in original plastic case,
remove debris with vacuum moving parts on hand drill where provided
cleaner. Check after any ■ Remove battery from tool if unlikely to be used
job producing fine dust for some time
from drilling masonry,
timber, etc ■ Keep battery charged
■ Wipe body of tool clean with
damp cloth (occasionally)

■ Wipe dust and debris from ■ Spray moving parts with

threads occasionally – corrosion inhibitor (monthly)
apply grease to concealed
threads (e.g. on woodwork
vice) if they appear dry
or rusted (around every
six months)

■ Re-grease threads if they ■ Hang on rack or pegs on wall

appear dry or rusted

■ Wipe exposed metal with ■ Apply drop or two of ■ Keep in tool box or drawer in the dry
oily rag, or rub down light machine oil to ■ It’s useful to keep electrical pliers in a small
corrosion with wire wool pivots, springs (if fitted), box with electrical spares
and threads of any
locking mechanisms
 Cross-pein hammer
Claw hammer

Pin hammer Ball-pein hammer

Hammers
Japanese hammer

H E T O O L S
T for
Striking & Breaking
These robust tools are surprisingly versatile and can be used for
everything from heavy-duty digging and demolition to tapping
in small nails and delicately shaping metal.

Mallets and Punches

Carvers mallet

Club hammer Rubber mallet Nail Centre

punch punch

Carpenters mallet Sledgehammer

 Utility bar
Wrecking bar

Digging bar
Crow bar

Demolition bar
Wrecking Bars

Moulding bar
Pry bar

Picks and Mattocks

Mattock Hammer Railroad Ice axe Claw Mandrill

mattock pickaxe mattock pickaxe
 HISTORY OF

Striking & Breaking

HAMMER STONES AND SOFT HAMMERS
2.6–1.7 MYA

Some of the earliest tools were simply sticks

or rocks used for stabbing and crushing. Early “THE MOMENT
hammers were wooden clubs and served many
purposes. In the Old Stone Age, “soft hammers” MAN FIRST PICKED
made from pieces of wood, antlers, or bone worked UP A STONE OR A
with stone were used to work flint.
BRANCH TO USE AS
Antlers were ideally
shaped for hammering.
A TOOL, HE ALTERED
Pounder or
hammerstone.
IRREVOCABLY THE
BALANCE BETWEEN
HIM AND HIS
ENVIRONMENT.”
JAMES BURKE

Early hammer tools

DIGGING STICKS EARLY AGRICULTURE METAL-AGE HAMMERS

6500 BCE
2.6–1.7 MYA

10,000–1900 BCE

One of the oldest tools, still used The first handled, or hafted, hammer The hammer as we know it was
by some subsistence cultures was used in Neolithic times, possibly as formed, and it was used for
today, is the digging stick. a miner’s maul. An oval stone formed the metallurgy, nailing, and riveting.
A sturdy stick with a pointed axe head, which was attached to a branch
end and handle is the ancestor by twisted fibres.
of many hand tools, including the
pickaxe and mattock. It was used Wedge-shaped oval
for a multitude of tasks, including
digging out roots and tubers.
stone axe head.
“HAMMER
YOUR IRON
WHEN IT IS
GLOWING HOT.”
Bone or wood haft PUBLILIUS SYRUS
to increase blow. C.85–43 BCE
Neolithic hammer
2300 BCE ANTLER PICK SHAFT HOLES

3000–1900 BCE
UK Neolithic flint-mining sites In the Middle East, bronze and
Some shafts
such as Norfolk’s Grime’s Grave here are more
copper hammer heads were pierced
Grime’s
show that the sharp antlers of than 9m Grave with a shaft hole, through which
red deer were used as picks to (30ft) deep. wooden handles could be fitted.
excavate mines.

Main shaft of London

antler forms
natural handle.
Neolithic 30KG
(66LB)
Antler pick flint mine

MATTOCKS CAST-IRON PICKS

1000 BCE
3000–1900 BCE

The weight of the largest

stone hammer found at
During the Bronze Age, bronze The Iron Age discovery of carburization, where Great Orme, a Bronze Age
mattocks were used in ancient iron absorbs carbon during the smelting process, copper mine in North Wales.
It is just one of 2,500 stone
Greece, having replaced earlier meant that pickaxe heads became harder, larger, hammers of varying weights
similar tools made of antler or and heavier. Because they were made from iron, and sizes found at the mine,
stone. They were much the same their edges also remained sharper for longer than which yielded copper of such
shape as they are today, and the smaller bronze versions, and this durability a high grade that some has
tool has changed relatively little increased the pace and efficiency of work in been found in bronze made
in France and Holland.
since its creation. activities such as mining.

CLAW HAMMER
735 BCE–500 CE

50,000 PICKS The Romans developed the claw hammer and peen
The estimated number of red deer antler picks hammers (with rounded ends on the opposing face).
used to create Grime’s Grave, a Neolithic flint They also invented the file-maker’s hammer with two
mine located around 130km (80 miles) northwest chisel-shaped heads, which was used to score iron.
of London. The mine, which was begun around
2300 bce, and covered 34 acres, was worked for
over 600 years to exploit a vast seam of flint Surviving prong of
located beneath chalk beds. Roman claw hammer.

HEAVY HAMMERS
1000 BCE

In Europe, hammer heads began to be pierced with a shaft

hole to fit the handle – although this had been the practice in Rounded
the Middle East for centuries. Iron, however, meant that much striking face.
weightier iron hammer heads could then be fitted to sturdier
wooden shafts, a development that led to the creation of tools
such as early sledgehammers and forging hammers for use
in blacksmithing. The problem of keeping such heads securely
fastened on wooden shafts, though, remains to this day! Roman claw hammer head
 CHOOSING A

Hammer
Striking & Breaking

From driving in small nails to demolition work, hammers are

important tools. They vary in size and pattern: some are for
specific tasks such as shaping metal; others have a more
general purpose. Shafts on smaller tools are
traditionally ash or hickory, larger hammers
may be steel or carbon fibre, and mallets
are often made entirely of hardwood.

r
me
ham
Pin

146
147

“ A LWAY S GR IP Y O UR
HA M M E R AT T H E EN D
O F IT S S HA F T, N E V E R
HA L F WAY A L O N G IT
”
r
me
ham
p ein
ss-
Cro
 “ HEAD N E V E R U S E A HA M M E R IF T HE
IS D A M A G E D O R HA S
WORKED L OO S E
”
r
me
am
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Cla

Cross-pein Hammer
☛☛What it is Forged-steel head with
large striking face, wedge-shaped end,
hardwood shaft. Weight: up to 450g (1lb).
☛☛Use it for Larger nails. General use,
including assembling woodwork joints.

am
me
r ☛☛How to use Hold nail between finger
and thumb, tap with wedged end. Rotate
nese h
a hammer to finish with striking face.
Jap
☛☛Look for Striking face should be
slightly convex, not dead flat. Medium
weight (350g/12 oz) is a good choice.
Pin Hammer
☛☛What it is A forged-steel head with
small striking face, a wedged end, and a Japanese Hammer
hardwood shaft. Weight: up to 100g (3.5oz).
☛☛What it is Small steel or bronze head
☛☛Use it for Driving panel or veneer with one flat and one convex face. Slim
pins, tacks, small nails in finer woodwork, oak shaft. Weight: up to 375g (13oz).
upholstery, and hobby work.
☛☛Use it for Driving smaller nails,
☛☛How to use Hold pin and tap with striking chisels.
wedged end. Once the pin is set, rotate
hammer to finish with opposite face. ☛☛How to use Strike chisels with flat
face, nails with convex face.
☛☛Look for Check hammer balances
☛☛Look for A head that clearly
well as you swing it. Make sure shaft is
identifies flat or convex face.
firmly wedged into head.

Claw Hammer Ball-pein Hammer

er
☛☛What it is Striking face with claw. ☛☛What it is Steel head with ball and flat
m Steel, carbon-fibre, fibreglass or hardwood striking face. Weight: up to 1.1kg (2.4lb).
in ham shaft. Weight: up to 680g (1.5lb). Hardwood, fibreglass, carbon-fibre shaft.
l-pe
Bal ☛☛Use it forDriving large nails. ☛☛Use it for Shaping/bending metal,
Removing pins or nails with claw. setting rivets with ball face.
☛☛How to use Slide V of claw over head ☛☛How to use Tap rivet with hammer
of nail, grasp shaft, and exert leverage. to create mushroom head.
Use thin offcut to prevent denting surface.
☛☛Look for A properly hardened,
☛☛Look for Fine V tapering of claw to tempered head.
grip smallest pinheads. A shock-resistant
shaft (unless hardwood) for comfort. CONTINUED ☛
 ch
re pun
Striking & Breaking

Cent

llet
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Carvin

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Nai

148
149

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er ma
Rubb
 me
r llet
am ma
lub
h ers
C p ent
Car

Carving Mallet Rubber Mallet

☛☛What it is Wooden tool with a round ☛☛What it is Twin-face rubber head on
head of dense hardwood, specified by hardwood or fibreglass shaft. Weight: up
weight or head diameter. Turned handle. to 800g (2lb).
☛☛Use it for Striking woodcarving ☛☛Use it for Assembly work where
chisels and gouges. surfaces could be damaged. Driving pegs.
☛☛How to use Swing mallet so head ☛☛How to use Grip end of shaft and
strikes tool handle square on. swing mallet to strike workpiece squarely.
☛☛Look for Correct weight. A heavy ☛☛Look for Mallets with replaceable
mallet will be more tiring to use. screw-in faces (nylon, brass, or copper).

Nail Punch Sledgehammer

☛☛What it is Steel tool with shaft. ☛☛What it is Heavy, twin-faced, steel
Tip comes in sizes to match nail heads. head on long hardwood or fibreglass shaft.
Weight: up to 6.4kg (14lb).
☛☛Use it for Punching nails below
timber surface. ☛☛Use it for Breaking concrete, driving
fence posts. Use with wedge to split wood.
me
r ☛☛How to use Place tip on nail head,

geh
am tap firmly with hammer until head is flush. ☛☛How to use Hold in both hands due
d to its weight and swing it like an axe.
Sle ☛☛Look for Square section head means
punch cannot roll off the workbench. ☛☛Look for Check for damage to shaft
and wrap with repair tape if necessary.

Club Hammer
Centre Punch ☛☛What it is Heavy-duty, dual-face
Carpenters Mallet
☛☛What it is Small steel tool with steel head. Hardwood or fibreglass shaft. ☛☛What it is Hardwood tool with two
knurled shaft. One end ground to a point. Weight: 1–1.8kg (2.2–4lb). broad tapered striking faces, flared shaft.
☛☛Use it for Making small indents ☛☛Use it for Striking cold chisels, ☛☛Use it for Striking woodworking
in metal or timber to set drill bit. general demolition work. chisels or similar.
☛☛How to use Position punch tip on ☛☛How to use Don gloves and goggles. ☛☛How to use Hold mallet end. Swing
pencil mark, tap gently with hammer. Strike end of chisel with face of hammer. so face strikes chisel handle squarely.
☛☛Look for Square section head means ☛☛Look for Choose a lighter weight ☛☛Look for Splits on the striking faces.
punch cannot roll off the workbench. hammer, particularly if you are unused Re-glue and reshape if necessary.
to heavy work.
 Claw tapers
to V, with bevels
Striking & Breaking

Forged head on inside edges

made of to grip nails.
tempered steel.

Curved claw or
split pein, used
to extract nails.
SIDE VIEW

Handle made
Cheek or side of of hardwood,
hammer head. steel, or fibreglass.

Tapered neck
connects the poll,
or area surrounding
150 striking face, to head.

151
“ B A L AN C E
C HE C K A HA M M E R ’S
W HE N
B U Y IN G . IT S HO U L D N ’ T
FEEL UNWIELDY
”
Striking face
is circular and
slightly crowned.
BACK
VIEW

Shaft can be solid or

hollow if made of metal.
 UCTURE OF A
STR
“ NEVER LO O S E
Claw Hammer
U SE A HA MMER
THAT H AS A HEA D
OR A CRA CK ED HA N D LE
”
The claw hammer is unique in its capacity to
remove nails, as well as drive them into timber
and other materials. Nails are removed with a
curved or straight claw with a V-shaped groove,
which grips the nail head and levers it out. It’s
a vital general-purpose tool for tasks around the
house or workshop.

FOCUS ON…
Hammer Heads
A hammer is defined by its pattern and head weight, rather than
by the weight of the entire tool. A pin hammer typically weighs
100g (4oz), while a ball-pein hammer may be ten times heavier.
Some high-tech tools feature anti-vibration pads to isolate the
head from its shaft, reducing shock for the user when hammering.
A framing hammer has almost straight claws and a large,
textured, rather than smooth, striking face, which is designed
to prevent or limit skidding off the nail heads.

Thick base
stops hammer
sliding out of hand
when striking.

Textured grip Curved claw Provides excellent leverage when

of rubber or vinyl extracting a nail, particularly from hardwoods.
reduces vibration.

Framing hammer Has a patterned face and straight

claw that can pry materials apart or remove boards.
 USING A

Claw Hammer
Striking & Breaking

Using a hammer to drive in nails is generally a faster fixing method than driving screws by
hand. It’s arguably more permanent, though, so ensure that your timber is properly positioned.
Bent nails can sometimes be straightened, but you may need to use the hammer’s claw to
extract them. Use an offcut under the head to avoid damaging surfaces when levering a nail.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Work safely Always wear eye
protection when using anything larger
than a pin hammer. Even the smallest
chip can damage an eye.
☛☛Inspect hammer Check the
hammer head for chips or flaws. Make
sure it’s clean to avoid slipping off
when striking a nail.
☛☛Select nail Always select the
correct type and size of nail for the
task. Ideally, a nail’s length should be
152 three times the depth of the thinnest
component when nailing two items
153 together. Otherwise, the fixing may
not hold.

2 Set the nail

Position the point of the nail
perpendicular to the mark,
gripping it between thumb and
forefinger. Holding the nail upright,
Nail point
should be held
vertically over
the mark.

tap gently with the hammer a few

times to get it established.

1 Choose nail position

Mark the nail position with a pencil,
if necessary. Where a nail is to be
used close to the end of board, drill
“ A W E L L -B A L AN C E D HA M M E R
R E S U LT S IN L E S S S T RE S S O N

”
a small guide hole first to prevent the
timber from splitting, especially if MUSCLES AND TENDONS
you’re using hardwood.
 FOCUS ON…
The Strike Arm as fulcrum
or pivot point transfers
Using a hammer is rather like operating a lever. force to head via shaft.
Seen as an extension of your arm, the elbow acts
as a fulcrum as the tool is gripped and swung
Striking face
downwards. Force is transferred to the hammer head, concentrates
which then contacts the nail. A well-balanced tool maximum force
should require little effort to drive any nail completely to drive nail.
with just a few firm blows. Always aim to hit the nail Gripping end
head with the hammer’s striking face at 90 degrees. of hammer provides
force via lever action.

Grip hammer
at end of shaft for
maximum force
with least effort.

4
Strike vertically
so that the striking Finish the drive
face hits the nail For the cleanest finish, use a nail punch to
head squarely. drive the nail home. Select a punch that is
slightly smaller than the nail head. With your
hand resting on the timber to steady the punch,

3
hold it on the nail head. Tap with the hammer
Strike the nail until flush or just below the surface.
Move your fingers away and
strike the nail more firmly,
swinging the hammer from the After you finish
elbow. Be sure the face meets ☛☛Apply filler If you want to conceal the nail
the nail head squarely. Stop fixing, apply a suitable filler to the hole that
hammering when the nail head matches the colour of the wood.
is just above the wood’s surface. ☛☛Clean up your tools Keep the striking face
of the hammer clean by running it across fine
abrasive paper.
Remove any
poorly placed nails
using the claw.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

Y
“ A W O R K E R M AY B E T HE

HA M M E R ’ S MA S T E R , B U T T HE
HA MMER STIL L P R E VAIL S . A T O O L K N O W S
EX A CT LY HO W IT IS M E A N T T O B E H AN DL E D ,
WHILE THE U S E R O F T HE T OO L C A N O N LY

HAV E A N A PP RO XIMAT E
MILAN KUNDERA
ID E A .
”
 CHOOSING

Picks and
Striking & Breaking

Mattocks
They may not look like it, but picks and mattocks
are highly versatile tools that can be used for
digging, chopping, levering, and breaking e
kax
rock or cement – even as a life-saving d pic
lroa
anchor in ice. Often confused as the same Rai
tool, the mattock’s head is different from
that of a pickaxe, but both have long handles
to give a powerful swing.

axe
Ice
156
157

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atto
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Cla
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ill pic
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Ma

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atto
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Ham

Railroad Pickaxe Hammer Mattock

☛☛What it is Most common pickaxe, ☛☛What it is Big, pick-like tool, with
with a pick- and chisel-headed blade. a double-headed (hammer/adze) blade.
☛☛Use it for Breaking rocks, stones, ☛☛Use it for Breaking up small roots
and hard ground. and clumps of earth.
☛☛How to use Swing directly overhead ☛☛How to use Bring the hammer
and bring the pick down centrally over end down repeatedly on the object.
the target. Repeat as needed.
☛☛Look for A hammer size big and
☛☛Look for A long, comfortable handle weighty enough to tackle the material
to provide both hands with a firm grip. you need to break up.

Ice Axe Mattock

☛☛What it is Small, lightweight pickaxe ☛☛What it is A long-handled tool
with a serrated pick for cutting ice. with an adze or flat blade on one end.
☛☛Use it for Hacking into ice when ☛☛Use it for Digging and chopping,
mountain climbing; climbing aid. loosening hard soil, cutting through roots.
☛☛How to use Chip into ice with short ☛☛How to use Bring head to just above
strokes. Swing harder to use as “anchor”. waist height; let its weight bring it down.

ck
☛☛Look for An axe that is lightweight, ☛☛Look for A good-quality head, and
easy to carry, is easy to grip with gloves a comfortable handle with a good grip.
Matto
on, and has a wrist strap.

Claw Mattock
Mandrill Pickaxe ☛☛What it is A double-headed
☛☛What it is Also called a miner’s tool containing an adze blade and
pick, a short-handled tool that is ideal a two- to three-clawed blade.
for use in confined spaces. ☛☛Use it for Pulling out weeds
☛☛Use it for Breaking rocks and and deep roots.
digging rocks out of small spaces. ☛☛How to use Swing blade to earth,
☛☛How to use Swing like a normal then work the claw back and forth.
pick, but take shorter swings. ☛☛Look for Suitable sizes. This tool
☛☛Look for A sharp pick at the end can be either a large or small mattock,
and a good weight to the head. and often comes in a “micro size”.
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Pickaxe
Striking & Breaking

The pickaxe, sometimes called a railroad pickaxe, is an

invaluable tool for digging, breaking up hard ground, and
chopping up roots. Handles range from around 65–100cm
(26–39in) long, while the tool’s head is made from forged The eye
steel and features a pointed blade on one side with which is the hole in
pick head where
to break up ground, and a flat chiselled blade on the other, the handle fits.
which also doubles as a lever.

OVERALL VIEW
Top of handle
often formed into

“ TH E R A I LR O A D PIC K A X E WA S
SO NA MED D U E TO ITS EXT E N S IV E U S E
tapered wedge.

DUR IN G THE C O N S TR UC T IO N Long handle

OF A MER ICA N R A ILR O A DS
” is made from
fibreglass or wood.

Grip found mainly

on fibreglass handles.

FOCUS ON…
Striking Action
Pickaxe heads are deliberately curved so that when
they make contact with the ground or rock, the impact
of the strike occurs at an angle. This not only makes
the strike more effective at breaking up a surface, it Pick point
also prevents debris from flying directly upwards into concentrates
the face of the user, as well as reducing the likelihood force of blow
into small area.
that the tool head bends due to the impact. The point
concentrates the force of a strike into a small area,
while the sharp chisel spreads it into a cutting face.
 USING A

Pickaxe
Chisel end can
be sharpened with
grinder or file.

Chisel
used as lever, When trying to break up rock or hard ground,
for prying open use the pick end of the pickaxe. To use the
ground or
splits in rock. chisel end, place it into a crack that needs
to be split and rock the head back and forth,
like a lever prising the object open.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Practise the swing If you aren’t used to dealing with
the weight of a pickaxe, start slowly and practise pulling
it over your head.
☛☛Stay safe Work in a clear area with nothing behind
you. Wear gloves with extra grip, and safety goggles to
stop fragments of earth or rock flying up into your eyes.

1 Position yourself
Stand with your feet slightly apart and your dominant
leg forward. The object you need to hit should be
FRONT VIEW

slightly in front of you.

SIDE VIEW

2 Grip the pick

Place your non-dominant hand towards the bottom of
the grip, and put your other hand slightly further up
the handle, with a space between the two hands.

Powder
coating
on tool head
prevents rust
3 Make the swing
Bending at the waist and keeping your knees flexed,
lift the pickaxe over your head, or if new to using this
tool, swing it from just over the shoulder. Bring the axe
down in an arc, keeping your arms extended. Keep your
formation.
eye on the object you need to hit as you bring the tool
down. Grip tightly as you make contact with the object
so the pickaxe doesn’t slip.

After you finish

Point or pick ☛☛Clean the tool Wipe the handle and head of the
used for breaking pickaxe clean of any debris.
ground or stone. ☛☛Check the handle If using a wooden-handled
tool, check the handle for splinters. Smooth them away
with sandpaper if need be. Cracked handles should
be replaced.
 CHOOSING A

Wrecking Bar
Striking & Breaking

Wrecking bars of many types have been around for centuries. Their
strength and length provide excellent leverage, while a wide
variety of grooves and points make them ideal for
prying apart items, pulling out tight fasteners,
bar
or breaking down rocks – all essential for Pry
demolition projects. Demolition may
seem daunting but with the right
tools for the job, it will take
much less effort.

bar
lding
Mou

160
161

bar
ng
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Wre

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Demo

r
wba
Cro

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Util
 Digging Bar
☛☛What it is A long metal bar with a
chisel at one end and a point at the other.

ng
bar ☛☛Use it for Digging post holes, breaking
gi up hardened or frozen ground, digging out
Dig tree roots; also used as a lever.
☛☛How to use Drive pointed end into the
ground in a rotational motion to make a hole.
☛☛Look for Longer and thicker bars will
tackle harder surfaces.

Demolition Bar
☛☛What it is A long bar with a bent
end that has two prongs like a fork, with
a chisel at the other end.
☛☛Use it for General demolition,
breaking, removal, lifting heavy objects.

Moulding Bar ☛☛How to use Put the forked section

under the object that needs to be removed
and lever the bar.
☛☛What it is Short bar with wide, thin ☛☛Look for Make sure the bar is long
claw at one end, a forked head at the other.
enough to use standing up. A rubberized
☛☛Use it for Removing architraves, grip on the handle is a must.
picture rails, window/door frames, tiles.
☛☛How to use Push claw under object; pry
gently to avoid damaging surface beneath.
☛☛Look for A smooth, heavy, polished
Crowbar
exterior to prevent damage to surfaces.
☛☛What it is A long tool with
a chisel-like end and either a claw

Pry Bar
or point at the other end.
☛☛Use it for Breaking rock, general
demolition, lifting, and levering.
☛☛What it is A mid-length metal
bar with a blunt claw at one end. ☛☛How to use For breaking, drive the
point or chisel end down directly over
☛☛Use it for Mostly prying, but also
the item with a firm hit.
for pulling, lifting, and nail removal.
☛☛How to use Use the bent claw ☛☛Look for End type. For breaking,
a pointed end is better, but for lifting,
for lifting and leverage.
use a bent forked end.
☛☛Look for Powder-coated bars have
better longevity as they won’t rust.

Utility Bar
Wrecking Bar ☛☛What it is A flat, short bar, with one
☛☛What it is Tough bar with a large, bent and one flatter, slightly curved end.
curved point at one end, a smaller, flatter ☛☛Use it for Pulling up flooring, pulling
hook or cylindrical point at the other. out nails, and removing tiles.
☛☛Use it for Removing floorboards, ☛☛How to use Insert flatter end under
plasterboard, tiles, and general lifting. item to be removed; rock bar back and
☛☛How to use Use the larger hook to forth to loosen. Use bent end for pulling.
pull, or as a large lever to lift floorboards. ☛☛Look for Choose size that works well
☛☛Look for A good size and weight in the space you have. Some have a small
to provide leverage and endurance. hole in the bar to remove nails easily.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

“ Y
YOU CAN B U RY A LOT

OF TR O UB L E S D IGG ING
IN T HE D IRT .
ANONYMOUS
”
 IN TA I N T O O L S F O
MA R Tools Inspection

Striking & ■ Check for any damage

Striking & Breaking

after use, ensure that

the hammer heads are

Breaking
securely fitted and
don’t wobble
■ Check handles for grip,
any damaged or peeling
of coated handles could

If looked after well your tools should last many

Hammers make them slippery.

years. Ensure you clean excess dirt off after use

and store them in a dry place to prevent rust.

KEEP TOOLS CLEAN

Cleaning is the key to keeping tools in good
shape for longer. Avoid using abrasive
chemical cleaners and stick to soap ■ Check for splinters
and water, or even sugar soap, for in handles
stubborn dirt. ■ Check for loose heads
before use

1 Clear dry dirt

Knock any dry dirt off your tools
when you have finished using them.
Picks &
164
165 2 Wash tools
Use warm water and a rag to clean
off any really stubborn dirt. Dry dirt can
Mattocks
simply be

3 Dry and store knocked off

Dry your tools thoroughly and store digging tools.
them in a dry place to stop rust forming.

STORAGE
Store your tools safely and in an order ■ Check for any bends and
that makes sense to you, so that they chips in tools when
are easy to find when you need them. cleaning them
Tools with sharp edges should be
hung safely or stored so the sharp
edge cannot fall easily – for

Wrecking
example pickaxes should be stored
with the head resting on the floor.

Get organized
If you have a place for each of your
Bars
tools to live, they are easier to find
when you need them. Digging into a large
box or bag that has tools randomly thrown
Hammers
into it can be dangerous and can also cause
should be hung
damage to the tools.
up securely.
 Cleaning Repair Tips Storage
■ Wipe down after use ■ A broken shaft on a ■ Treat wooden handles ■ Store in a cool, dry place to stop wood from swelling
hammer with a traditional with linseed oil to and metal heads from rusting
hardwood handle can be preserve the wood
replaced: remove broken and maintain a smooth
wood from eye, then, using but comfortable grip
the old shaft as a guide,
whittle a new shaft to size,
testing fit with hammer
head as you go. Set head
into new shaft with a
rubber mallet. Remove
wedge from old shaft and
tap it into slot sawn across
the end to fix head firmly
in place.

■ Clean excess dirt off ■ Splits in fibreglass handles ■ If head becomes ■ Store in a cool, dry place to stop wood from swelling
after job cannot be repaired, but loose during a job, soak and metal heads from rusting
■ For dry dirt use a wet cloth small splits or splinters in the head in water for
wooden handles can be about 30 minutes to swell
sanded away wood and make head
fit – this is only
a temporary fix though,
and not a long-term
solution to a loose head

■ Clean with WD40 to ■ Breaker bars are hard to ■ If you feel like your bar ■ Ensure all tools are dry before storage
lift dirt and protect break so won’t need any is bending during use ■ Hang on hooks or store flat in a safe box or bag
corrosive elements repairs. If they bend they stop and use a heavier
can’t be used again so weight bar
need to be replaced
 Spade

Border spade

Roundmouth spade
Shovels and Spades

H E T O O L S
T for
Digging & Groundwork
Preparing soil, planting, clearing, and digging all require tools
suited to the task. From the humble spade to the specialized
cultivator, the right tool can make light work of groundwork.

Digging fork

Manure fork

Flat shovel
 Post-hole digger

Post-hole digging bar

Grafter

Augers and Post-hole Diggers

Manual auger
Drainage
spade

Hoes and Cultivators

Garden rake

Leaf rake

Hand claw
cultivator
Dutch hoe

Long-handled Draw hoe

claw cultivator

Angled hoe

Oscillating hoe

Trowels, Forks, and Dibbers

Hand trowel

Dibber Widger Transplanting trowel Hand fork

 HISTORY OF

Digging & Groundwork

DIGGING STICKS EARLY TROWEL

10,000 YA
2.6–1.7 MYA

The basic but highly versatile “A WISE MAN In Neolithic times, the shoulder blades of large
digging stick is the ancestor of WILL MAKE mammals were used to dig out soil and rocks,
tools such as the spade and the especially when mining for flint. The bones of
hoe. It was used mainly for digging
TOOLS OF oxen were put to use in much the same way
out underground food, such as WHAT COMES as a garden trowel is used today.
tubers and roots, as well as
flushing out burrowing animals or
TO HAND.”
accessing insects within anthills. THOMAS FULLER

EARLY HOES WOODEN TROWELS

1800 BCE
5000 BCE

Cave paintings depict hoe-like Ancestors of Native Americans belonging to the Katzie First Nation used wooden tools
tools being used by ancient similar in design to modern garden trowels. The tools were carved with broad, rounded
peoples. These resemble long, tips and were found at a site near Vancouver, Canada. Used for cultivation of
fork-like sticks and are believed to wild potatoes known as wapato, they provide some of the
have been used to weed farmland, earliest evidence of wild food gardening on the continent. Katzie territory
chop up plant matter, and create shaded pale blue.

furrows for planting.

CANADA

“ENOUGH
SHOVELS OF
EARTH – A
MOUNTAIN.
ENOUGH PAILS Early wooden trowel

OF WATER – Pitt Lake

A RIVER.” Vancouver Katzie
CHINESE PROVERB

Region of Katzie First Nation Territory

1750 BCE SHOVELS ROMAN GARDENING TOOLS

500 BCE–500 CE
Artefacts found at copper-mining The Romans developed many of the
sites in the UK show that wooden gardening tools still in use today. The
shovels were used to dig mines. pala was the forerunner of the spade,
the sarculum was equivalent to
a hoe or weeding hook, and the
bidens resembled a modern rake.

The Roman bidens had a

wooden head inserted with
Preserved wooden shovel several wooden tines or prongs. Roman rake

BRONZE SHOVELS ROMAN SPADES

140–165 CE
c.55 BCE

Romans designed and used bronze The Romans added a cutting edge to reinforce
shovels. Examples, including wooden spades in the form of “spade shoes” or
versions for shovelling incense, iron rims. The spades and shovels used today
“IF YOU HAVE A have been found at various sites. owe much to Roman improvements to the tools,
GARDEN AND especially the development of forged iron.

A LIBRARY,
YOU HAVE
EVERYTHING BRONZE 12%
Tin
Bronze is an alloy of copper
YOU NEED.” and tin, although sometimes other
metals are added, including zinc and
CICERO nickel. Historically, the composition
varied widely, with craftsmen using
whatever metal scraps 88% The main
were available. Copper
part of most
bronze blends
Bronze alloy is copper.

LIGHTWEIGHT TOOLS CAST-IRON SHOVEL

1300s

1774

In the Middle Ages, iron smelting The first cast-iron shovel in America was forged
led to more lightweight tools that by Captain John Ames. The Ames company went on The cast-iron blade
was more durable
required less effort to use, with to modify the shovel further by introducing a back- than wrought iron.
more precisely crafted shapes. strapped model in 1817, for use by soldiers in wartime,
and then adding a wooden handle in 1824.

GARDENER’S KIT
1600s

By the mid-1600s, contemporary

illustrations show cultivating
forks and trowels as part of the Socket-sleeve allowed for fitting
gardener’s wide-ranging toolkit. of wooden or metal handles.
Ames shovel
 CHOOSING A

Shovel or Spade
Digging & Groundwork

Spades, shovels, and forks vary in size, shape, and length,

meaning they are suited to specific tasks. Though the terms
are often used interchangeably, shovels and spades do not
do the same job. A shovel’s angled head makes it useful for
scooping, while the straighter spade is for digging.

ade
ing sp
Digg

170 g fo
rk
171 Digg
in

ork
re f
Manu
l
shove
Flat
 Round-mouth Shovel
☛☛What it is Shovel with a medium-
length handle and a large, scooped,
rounded head (mouth).
☛☛Use it for Scooping and moving large
quantities of loose earth, sand, or gravel.
Not for digging.
el
hshov ☛☛How to use With one hand at the far
m out end and one near the mouth end, scoop in
nd- a sweeping motion.
Rou
☛☛Look for Strong but lightweight to
ease effort. Wood or composite-fibre
handles are strong.

“ TH E MO STI M PO RTA NT T HIN G

W H EN C HO O S I N G SPA D E S A N D
Flat Shovel
☛☛What it is Shovel with a flat mouth,

”
square end, and raised edges.
FORKS IS S I ZE A N D FI T ☛☛Use it for Scooping and moving
large volumes of loose material. Good
for scraping flat surfaces.
☛☛How to use A consistent motion
makes loading and scooping more
efficient. Don’t overload the mouth.
☛☛Look for A strong join between the
mouth and the steel shaft leading to
the handle. Lightweight build.

Manure Fork
☛☛What it is A medium-length fork
with wide, slender tines that have sharp,
pointed tips.
☛☛Use it for Moving, clearing, and
loading loose material, including manure,
hay, and weed piles.
de
spa
B ord
er ☛☛How to use Push the tines into
bulkier material or piles that bind well,
such as leaves and grass clippings.
☛☛Look for Some versions have a long
handle, which is useful for spreading
manure and loading trailers.

Digging Fork Digging Spade Border Spade

☛☛What it is A four-pronged tool with ☛☛What it is A flat-bladed tool made ☛☛What it is Much like a digging spade
steel fork and a medium-length handle. of steel and slightly dished, with a but with a much smaller blade or head.
medium-length handle.
☛☛Use it for Turning over, breaking up ☛☛Use it for Lighter gardening jobs,
cultivated soil. Filtering roots from soil. ☛☛Use it for Digging holes in soil, including border work in tight spaces
turning soil over, such as when planting and loading soil into large pots.
☛☛How to use Put the fork onto the
trees, and large shrubs.
soil and push down with one foot. ☛☛How to use Use like the digging
Lever the handle back and turn soil over. ☛☛How to use Push the blade (spit) spade, but it may not need to be pushed
into the soil with your foot, lever back with the foot.
☛☛Look for Strong fork tines with
and forth, and turn over,
well-pointed or sharp tips and a good, ☛☛Look for A good fit, and a smooth
sturdy handle without play. ☛☛Look for Blade size (small or large) blade surface, with an edge that is as
and handle length to suit your height. sharp as possible.
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Spade Blade union with shaft

Digging & Groundwork
should be very strong,
whether forged or welded.

If you want to do some digging in the garden,

you’ll always need a spade, which makes it one
of the most fundamental tools in the gardening
shed. There is little variation in design, although
handle shape and angle, and blade size
or moulding do vary.
TOP VIEW

172
173 Steel collar
is robust and
attached firmly
to main shaft.
Steel blade is rigid,
yet should be fine,
clean, and sharp.
SIDE VIEW

Curved sides
of blade for
scooping.

Folded tread
protects the soles
of footwear when
pushing down.
FOCUS ON… USING A
Handle Shapes
Handle grips are either D- or T-shaped and come in a range of
materials. People with large hands can find a D-grip restrictive.
All grips need to be well finished to avoid snags or splinters, and
can sometimes be sanded. A slight angle reduces back strain
Spade
and increases leverage. Spades are very versatile, and a well-chosen
one is pleasing to use. Working slowly and
methodically, digging manageable volumes,
D- or T-grip on and straightening the back is important, as
handle completes
the shaft and
is selecting the right spade for the task.
controls use of tool.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Check the blade A clean and sharp blade will
cut the soil far better and with greater ease. Sharpen
if necessary before beginning.
☛☛Inspect the shaft Check for play in the shaft and
grip. Spades with wooden shafts are better stored in an
unheated shed to avoid drying out.

Shaft is lightweight
but strong enough to
endure hard work.
1 Place and push
Position the spade vertically on the surface of the
ground and give it a slight push with your hands.
Place one foot on the blade tread and push firmly into
the ground.

2 Mark out the hole

Repeat this action several times when digging holes
to determine the shape all the way around before
removing any soil. Gently rock or lever the spade when
in the soil if the ground is hard.

Angled grip
helps reduce
bending, saving
back from strain.
3 Lever the spade
Bending your knees and keeping your back straight,
lever the spade handle back towards you, either
turning the soil over when cultivating, or lifting it out
if digging a hole. Repeat until the job is done.

“ EXTEN S I O N
A SPADE IN U SE BECO MES A N
O F THE A R M S ,
After you finish
☛☛Clean the blade Clean blade and shaft with a cloth.
FI T
SO I TS DESIG N SHO U LD
Give uncoated steel blade a light coat of general-purpose
oil to prevent rust. Rub wooden shafts with linseed oil.
TH E USER PE R FE C TLY
” ☛☛Check for play If wooden shaft develops slight play,
soak it in water for 24 hours as a short-term solution to
rehydrate wood and allow it to swell to fit.
 CHOOSING A

Post-hole Digger
Digging & Groundwork

Digging holes for posts can be very hard work, especially

as the job often has to be performed in a tight spot, and
sometimes in stony ground. The holes must be deep,
vertical, and narrow, leading to the need for
specialist tools. Post-hole tools have
long handles and long, narrow
digging heads, unlike
most other spades
and shovels.

ade
age sp
Drain
174
175

“ POS T HO L E S A R E E A S IE R
TO D IG W HE N Y O U HAV E T HE

”
er
t-ho
le d
igg R IGH T T O OL S
Pos
 Drainage Spade Grafter
☛☛What it is Spade for digging drainage ☛☛What it is A narrow, flat-bladed
channels, its long, narrow blade is also spade with a very long, heavy handle.
useful for creating post holes.
☛☛Use it for Digging deep, narrow holes
☛☛Use it for Digging deep, rounded in combination with post-hole diggers.
holes in constricted spaces.
☛☛How to use Push blade into ground
☛☛How to use Use as a spade, gradually with foot. Use blade to shave the sides of
shaving the edges off a deep hole. You the holes and loosen bottom for scooping.
may have to kneel to use the short handle.
☛☛Look for A sharp and narrow head,

Gra
fter ☛☛Look for A good, sharp blade and with a strong and weighty handle.
very slight angle between the head and
the handle.
Post-hole Digger
☛☛What it is Essentially a twin-bladed
spade, with a scissor action and long
handles for reach.
☛☛Use it for Digging post holes in
tandem with the post-hole digging bar.
Scooping loosened material from holes.
☛☛How to use Holding both handles,
drop the head into the loosened soil, pull
handles apart to grip, lift out and empty.
☛☛Look for A well-made and durable
scissors mechanism. Long handles.

Manual Auger
☛☛What it is A very large screw thread
on a metal shaft turned via a long,
ger T-shaped handle.
l au
nua
Ma ☛☛Use it for Making deep, circular
holes in smooth, stone-free soil such
as clay.
☛☛How to use Position the auger and
rotate the thread clockwise to make hole.
Remove periodically to empty soil.
☛☛Look for A tough, sharp auger thread
and a very strong T-handle.
ar
gb
ig gin

Pos
t-ho
le d
Post-hole Digging Bar
☛☛What it is A heavy, solid-iron
bar with a chisel-shaped iron head
and a long handle.
☛☛Use it for Breaking up hard ground
or stony surfaces when digging.
☛☛How to use Use the blade end to
break up the ground in sections, a few

“ T O MA K E SU R E PO S T S S TAY IN
P O SIT IO N , D I G H O L E S T HAT A R E
centimetres at a time before scooping out
hole with post-hole digger. Loosen any
stones or obstructions as you go.
☛☛Look for
”
Long handle with
D E E P BU T N O T T O O W IDE a solid-iron core for extra weight.
 CHOOSING A

Hoe or
Digging & Groundwork

Cultivator
Choosing the right hoe or cultivator can
make a considerable difference to the ease and
effectiveness of your work in the garden, ke
f ra
and it can save a lot of other tasks further Lea
down the line. Frequent use of a hoe deals
with young weeds easily, which in turn
avoids the need to dig older ones out
later on. A sturdy, well-made rake
with the right kind of tines will
make surface preparation a joy. oe
wh
Dra

176
177

aw
en cl
gard
dled
g-han
Lon
 Dutch Hoe
☛☛What it is Traditional hoe with a flat,
D-shaped head, sharp on the front edge.
hoe ☛☛Use it for Removing weeds,
led
Ang cultivating soil in more open ground.
☛☛How to use Use a push and pull
motion in between plants and seedlings.
☛☛Look for A sharp edge to blade,
a long handle suitable for your height.
hoe
ch
Dut
Oscillating Hoe
☛☛What it is Hoe with flexing, stirrup-
Leaf Rake shaped head and sharp, curved blade.
☛☛Use it for All hoeing tasks, from light
☛☛What it is A long-handled rake with weeding to thick weeding in gravel.
fine but tough sprung-wire tines arranged ☛☛How to use Push and pull; the blades
in a fan shape. cut in both directions, oscillating slightly.
☛☛Use it for Raking leaves and pulled ☛☛Look for Different head sizes and
weeds, smoothing gravel, and removing handle lengths.
moss from lawns.
☛☛How to use
Long-handled Garden Claw
Pull the tines towards
you to gather material, either gently or,
in the case of lawn moss, firmly.
hoe ☛☛Look for Thick-grade wire and strong ☛☛What it is Medium-height tool
ng with T-handle. Four short prongs,
illati wooden handle for durability.
often twisted, are arranged in a square.
Osc
☛☛Use it for Cultivating and loosening

Draw Hoe
soil, removing weeds, turning compost.
☛☛How to use Push prongs into the soil
and rotate the handle.
☛☛What it is A long-handled hoe with
a simple, turned-down rectangular blade ☛☛Look for A comfortable fit and strong
set at 90 degrees. A very traditional tool. prongs and fixings.
☛☛Use it for Removing weeds and

Hand Claw Cultivator

general cultivation.
☛☛How to use Draw the blade towards
you through the soil, cutting weed roots,
and loosening the soil. Use blade to break ☛☛What it is Similar to long-handled
claw, but with short handle for close work.
up large chunks of earth.
☛☛Look for A sharp edge and strong ☛☛Use it for Cultivating worked soil,
working around established plants.
weld between the blade and metal collar.
☛☛How to use Push into ground and
twist the tines repeatedly with one hand.
vator

d cl
aw
c ulti
Angled Hoe ☛☛Look for A smooth handle for comfort
when using repeatedly.
Han
☛☛What it is A long-handled hoe with
a hooked blade that is sharp on all three
edges. Garden Rake
☛☛Use it for Removing light weeds, ☛☛What it is Long-handled rake, with a
severing larger weeds from roots, weeding wide metal head holding many short tines.
in between established plants.
ke ☛☛How to use As draw hoe, but
☛☛Use it for Levelling seed beds,
landscaping, spreading gravel or mulches.
de n ra because it is sharp on three edges, the
Gar angled hoe cuts better when pulled. ☛☛How to use Work backwards and
forwards to level or sculpt materials.
☛☛Look for A long handle and sharp
☛☛Look for A long handle and a heavy
edges. The collar must be strongly fitted
to the blade. head to carry it through surface materials.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

“ Y
TO FO RG E T HO W T O D IG
THE E A RTH A N D T O T E N D T HE S OIL
IS TO FO R G E T OU RS E LV E S .
M A H AT M A G A N D H I
”
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Hoe
Digging & Groundwork

Whole tool
Wood or man-made
handle must be light
The hoe is one of the best tools for the modern for ease of use.
gardener, and can even be well deployed to
achieve no-dig gardening. Because hoeing
vastly reduces labour, the right choice of hoe
is important. The professionals’ choice is the
oscillating hoe, which has a head that uses
a swivel action. In all cases, hoes must have a
long handle for comfort, and be kept very sharp.

Curved stirrup blade

rotates by 20 degrees,
improving the cut. Blade is sharp
on both edges, and
curved shape allows
great manoeuvrability. Blade tilted

180
181
TOP VIEW

Stainless steel or copper

make the most durable
heads and shafts.

FOCUS ON…
Head Types
Hoes come in many shapes and sizes, and
because so many hoe heads are available,
choice is important. Heads that cut in both
directions are sharp on each edge, which can
halve the time needed for each task, making
Blade is riveted so
it can be replaced
them more efficient. The edge must be slightly
when desired. angled into the soil for best results, which is
why the oscillating hoe is a good bet. Dutch
hoes are harder to work, and less effective.
 USING A

Hoe
Handle length
gives extended reach
and saves the back.

Keeping on top of weeds by regular hoeing

can reduce digging, as well as limiting the
surface compaction involved. This retains

“ NO GARD E N E R SHO U LD and builds healthy soil structure and

improves the overall plant health.
BE W I THO U T A HO E . U SED
CONSI STE N T LY, IT CA N G R EATLY
REDU C E T HE CHO R E The Process
OF KEEP IN G T HE G A R D EN
Before you start
W EED - FR E E
” ☛☛Plan a hoe-friendly space Gardens that are designed
for hoeing leave space between plants for the hoe, so be
sure to plan ahead when you’re planting and sowing.
☛☛Check blade Ensure the hoe blade is sharp before
you start; sharpen with a file if necessary. Some blades,
such as the oscillating hoe, are said to be self-sharpening.

1 Check the weather

Choose a dry, preferably hot day to hoe. Hoe when
weeds are tiny seedlings for maximum effect, not
when they are established. This saves a lot of time later.

2 Work in rows
Choose a position near the area that reduces surface
compaction, limiting the amount you walk over the
cultivation surface. Hoe up and down rows, methodically
and not randomly.

3 Skim smaller weeds

Push and pull the hoe gently through the soil,
although not too deeply, skimming the surface to cut
the roots of seedling weeds. Larger, perennial weeds can
be beaten by frequent hoeing too, as the front of the blade
can be used to cut through their roots and lever them out
of the soil.

After you finish

Fine woodgrain ☛☛Clear up the weeds If you have a compost heap that
of ash handle generates enough heat to kill seeds, rake up and dispose
makes it strong of the weeds there. If not, either bag them or burn them.
and smooth.
☛☛Clean the tool Wipe down both hoe blade and shaft.
Sharpen the blade if necessary, giving it a light coating
of oil, preferably vegetable oil, before storing.
 CHOOSING A

Trowel, Fork,
Digging & Groundwork

or Dibber
Trowels and forks come in all shapes and sizes,
and while it’s useful to have a selection, two
well-chosen items – a standard hand trowel
el
and fork – will cover almost every job. g trow
la ntin
Dibbers and transplanting trowels are Tra
nsp
useful if you sow and plant seedlings
frequently. Choose the best quality tools
you can afford, and take good care of them.

ber
Dib

rk
d fo
Han
ger
Wid
 el
d trow
Han

Transplanting Trowel Hand Trowel

☛☛What it is A narrow, pointed trowel ☛☛What it is An essential gardening
with incremental measures on the blade. tool, with a short handle and scooped
digging blade.
☛☛Use it for Digging planting holes
and channels to measured depths for ☛☛Use it for General gardening:
seedlings and young plants. planting small plants, uprooting weeds,
tilling surface soil, scooping compost.
☛☛How to use Use measurements to
create consistent depths, sowing drills ☛☛How to use Push blade into loose,
and planting holes in cultivated soil. cultivated soil. Avoid use in very hard
ground as this might bend the blade.
☛☛Look for Clear markings and
a narrow, tapering blade. ☛☛Look for Best quality, with a steel
or copper blade and a strong handle.

Dibber
☛☛What it is A short-handled tool
Hand Fork
with a fine, tapering point at the end. ☛☛What it is A miniature garden hand
☛☛Use it for Easily making planting fork, with short handle and three tines.
holes for seeds, small plants, and bulbs. ☛☛Use it for Mainly weeding through
☛☛How to use In soil that has been soil and loosening soil surface in borders.
prepared to a fine finish, push the point ☛☛How to use Working close to the
in vertically to the required depth. ground, push into the soil and lever or
☛☛Look for A smooth finish to the point, turn to cultivate or lift out weeds.
like metal, to avoid any pulling of soil ☛☛Look for Solid, strong tines that will
back out of the hole. not easily bend. A comfortable handle.

Widger
☛☛What it is A very long and narrow
hand tool with a scooped head.

“ TR O WE L O R F OR K C A N ☛☛Use it for Transplanting seedlings,

A Q U A L ITY making seed drills and holes; also
BE A HI G HLY S AT IS F Y ING T O O L
weeding in tight spots.
☛☛How to use Slip blade down the
TO O WN , HO LD , A N D U S E
” length of seedling roots to lift them out
gently, or push into gaps between stones
to pull out weeds.
☛☛Look for A tapering blade with
reasonably sharp edges and a very
robust handle.
 UCTURE OF A
Blade may rust over

STR
time, but can be
treated with wire

Trowel
wool and oil.
Digging & Groundwork

In its design and purpose, a trowel is really

a miniature spade. It is a must-have tool for
smaller planting and maintenance operations
in the garden. With its small blade and handle,
it’s also ideal for single-handed use.

184 Carbon-steel
blade is strong but
185 Blade made of carbon prone to rust, so
requires light coat
steel, stainless steel,
of oil for protection.
aluminium, or plastic.

Curved sides
strengthen the
blade and allow
easy scooping.

Steel tang is
strong so it won’t
bend or snap.

Tang embeds
the blade firmly
in the handle.
Tang, rear view
 USING A

Trowel
FOCUS ON…
Head Shapes
Trowel head shapes vary greatly, and are made from a range
of materials. Narrow and pointed heads are good for weeding
or planting small plants; digging trowels are very wide and A trowel is involved in many small gardening
almost triangular. Plastic or very thin steel budget trowels
are easy to use but don’t last long and break easily. Forged tasks, and like all tools, a good fit for you
stainless-steel or copper heads, mounted into wooden will make it more enjoyable to wield. Make
handles, are the longest-lasting, and easy to maintain. sure you like the feel of the handle, as well
as the size and shape of the head.

Handle is shaped
The Process
both for comfort
and a good grip.
Before you start
☛☛Choose the right type Ensure you’ve chosen the
correct trowel for the task. A long, thin rockery trowel
TOP VIEW

won’t do the job of a broad-bladed potting trowel.

☛☛Inspect the tool Check that your trowel is clean,
the blade isn’t bent, the edges are in good condition,
and the handle is sound.

Solid handle
made of wood,
rubber, or plastic
(polypropylene).
1 Prepare the ground
Working hard, compacted soil with a trowel is difficult,
so work over any soil first with a border fork prior to
using your trowel to plant. Planting in well-worked and
composted soil is easy, so preparation helps.

2 Dig the hole

Push the trowel vertically into the soil, and do
this several times to form the shape of the desired
planting hole in firm soil. Apply backward pressure
while removing the soil to capture and remove it. Use
one hand only, and don’t overwork the tool.
SIDE VIEW

3 Hold back the soil

In loose soil, or when planting into potting compost,
the soil often falls back into a planting hole. Use
the trowel to pull the soil away, then leave it in place
at the edge to hold the soil back while planting.

“
After you finish
A VITAL T O O L FO R U SE
☛☛Remember your tool Be careful not to throw trowels
away. They often end up in a bucket, mixed in among the
I N BORDE R S, CO N TA IN ER S, O R weeds, and then get flung onto the compost heap!
VEGETAB LE GARDENS
” ☛☛Keep it clean Make sure to clean off the trowel after
use, give it a light coat of general-purpose oil, if needed,
then store safely.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

Y
A
“ WHEN I G O IN T O T HE G AR DE N
S PA D E , A N D D IG A B E D , I F E E L S U C H
W IT H

AN E X HI LA R AT IO N AND H E ALT H T HAT

I D ISCO V ER THAT I HAV E B E E N D E F RA UD ING

M Y S E LF A L L T HIS T IM E IN L E T T IN G O T HE R S

D O FO R ME WHAT I S HO U L D HAV E D O N E W IT H

M Y O W N H AN DS .
R A L P H WA L D O E M E R S O N
”
 IN TA I N T O O L S F O
MA R Tools Inspection

Digging &
Digging & Groundwork
■ Check for play in joints of
handle and shaft before
use – wobbling handles

Groundwork
can pinch skin

Shovels &
■ Check spade edges
are sharp and face
clean before work and
Spades after finishing

Often shoved in the shed, grubby and rusty, with

wobbling handles, digging tools may be robust,
but they need care like any other tools.
■ If used infrequently, take
SHARPENING EDGED BLADES extra care to check that
your post-hole digger is
A good, sharp hoe will reward with ease in good condition
of use, lessening many labour-intensive before storing
chores. Regular maintenance keeps it
performing well at all times. Post-hole ■ Check scissor action,
usually a nut-and-bolt
Diggers
1
arrangement, is working
Check edges well – on many models this
All hoes have a cutting edge – can work loose – and
some have one; others two or adjust if necessary
three. Check all edges for damage.

188
189
2 Clamp and file
Clamp the hoe in a vice or on a
workbench, and, using a flat file or stone, Sharp edge of an
■ Check tools are structurally
sound, with any special
sharpen one side of each edge only. Follow the oscillating hoe. mechanisms working
sharpening angle already present in the edge. smoothly

3 Hoes &
■ Tools with cutting edges
Keep it sharp need to be sharp, and hoes
The edge need not be razor-sharp, but good are often overlooked – we
enough to cut roots on young plants. For the
best results, sharpen with each use. Cultivators expect them to cut, yet
push them through harsh,
blunting material

TREAT WITH CARE

All tools benefit from maintenance, which in some cases is only
a check over, or perhaps a quick clean off after use. Checking
tools means they don’t fail you when really needed. ■ Check for stress damage,
such as cracks at top of
Wash and oil shafts of forks and trowels,
or bent areas
Untreated metals will rust, and the pitting this causes leads to
resistance and collects dirt. Be sure to clean all tools with water, Trowels, ■ Look for rust and

Forks, &
including coated, synthetic, or rust-resistant metals. Coat any deep pitting, as texture
untreated metals with light vegetable oil, which is better for the of thickset rust will
soil than some alternatives. attract soil and

Care for wood Dibbers therefore builds-up

a resistant surface
Many tools, both new and old, have wooden handles, and they are
often the most pleasing to use. Storage in hot sheds or glasshouses
can dry out the wood and cause play in the joints. Soak wooden
handles in water to revive them and then store in cool shade.
 Cleaning Protection Adjustment Storage
■ After use, wash with water ■ These tools need little, if ■ Fix play in wooden handles ■ Store tools with wooden handles in cool and dry sheds
and hand brush if any, oiling when stored in by soaking in water or rooms – a shed in sun or a glasshouse can get very
necessary – using a a cool, dry shed or room – for 24 hours – man-made hot, drying out handles
rain-fed trough is best, seasoned wood does not handles can require ■ Avoid damp conditions, which can lead to rusting
rather than a hose, as it need protection and neither new rivets, or may be tool heads
leaves two hands free does good steel beyond repair
■ Clean soil away when wet, ■ If metalwork does need oil, ■ Sharpen spade edge with
as baked-on dirt can be such as in prolonged or a flat file to give it a good,
very tough to get off, damp storage, then use fine angle
hardening like fired clay vegetable-based chainsaw
oil, which will not harm
your soil

■ After use, wash with water ■ Little, if any, oiling needed ■ Adjust scissor action via ■ Make sure tools are clean and well-adjusted, as often
and hand brush if – should metalwork need nut and bolt – it relies they are needed for an emergency repair and must
necessary – preferably attention use vegetable- upon a shaft running be ready when required
using rainwater based chainsaw oil through the centre, with a
■ Clean soil off when wet threaded end – ideally nut
will have a nylon locking
core to keep it accurate,
replace if necessary

■ After use, wash with water ■ Little, if any, oiling needed ■ Keep mechanisms, such as ■ Store in a tool bin or on specific hook if
and hand brush if – should metalwork need that of oscillating hoe, awkwardly shaped
necessary – preferably attention use vegetable- clear of compressed mud
using rainwater based chainsaw oil ■ Sharpening hoe edges is
■ Clean soil off when wet important as they need
to sever roots of weeds
cleanly – use a flat file
and solid vice, clamp, or
workbench to grip tool
head, sharpen one or both
edges to tight angle that’s
sharp to touch

■ Wash every time you use ■ Overworked tools may get ■ Keep these tools at hand, perhaps in a grab bag,
them, or simply brush dirt bent – clamp tool and garden trug, bucket, or similar – it is good for
off with gardening glove as apply gentle pressure to efficiency, but put them in there as you hope to
you finish your work bend metal back to shape find them
■ Take great care when ■ Do not “store” your favourite hand tools on a compost
bending a hand tool, as heap – they will not be the same after a year of
wrong or excessive force compost action
may simply snap it
 Mortise chisel Bevel-edged chisel

Chisels

Japanese chisel Firmer chisel

H E T O O L S
T for
Shaping & Sharpening
A carpenter’s toolkit includes a range of chisels, planes, gouges,
and files for shaping wood. Sharpness is key for fine woodwork
and sharpening stones are vital for blade maintenence.

Files and Rasps

Rasp

Microplane File
 Japanese plane

Smoothing plane

Block plane

Wooden plane
Planes
Jack plane

Spokeshave: rounded sole Spokeshave: flat sole

In-cannel gouge Out-cannel gouge

Gouges and Scrapers

Sharpening Stones

Oilstone Diamond stone Japanese waterstone

 HISTORY OF

Shaping & Sharpening

FIRST CHISELS EARLY GOUGES

7000 BCE
8000 BCE

Long, chisel-like stone tools made Chisels and gouges were made
MOHS SCALE
In 1812, German mineralogist Friedrich
of flint appeared around this time. from ground and polished stones, Mohs developed a way to identify minerals
These were further developed in such as jadeite, diorite, and schist. based on their resistance to scratching
the late Neolithic period by All last longer than flint, a type of by ten reference minerals. Here, flint
grinding the flint. quartz that fractures easily. scores higher than diorite, but diorite
is actually more durable.
10
9 Diamond
8

“IT IS WELL WITH 7

6
Flint
Jadeite

Mohs scale
ME ONLY WHEN 5 Diorite

I HAVE A CHISEL 4
3 Schist
Obsidian

IN MY HAND.” 2
1 Talc
MICHELANGELO
Paleolithic chisels Minerals

EARLY BRONZE CHISELS EGYPTIAN FILES AND CHISELS

c.3000–1900 BCE

c.1500 BCE

When smelting and casting techniques were developed, the first Ancient Egyptians used flat bronze files and iron
bronze chisels were made. They initially consisted of one solid piece as well as bronze chisels. Some were cast with
of metal with no attachable handle, and could be used to cut and tangs – rods pushed into a wooden handle – or
shape soft rocks such as sandstone and limestone, as well as wood. with sockets, into which wooden handles were set.
Chisel around
18cm (7in) long.
OBSIDIAN TOOLS
1200–900 BCE

Chisels and knife-chisels made out of obsidian,

Chisel, side view a type of volcanic glass, were used to shape
Projections at softer stone, as seen in the highly intricate
Widens from butt to
mid-point on each cutting edge. sculptures of pre-Columbian Central America.
side of chisel.
Gouges, basically chisels with concave sections,
were also used around this time to scoop out
hollows or create holes with curved, instead
of straight, sides.
Chisel, top view
 ROMAN CARPENTRY FIRST PLANE

79 CE
735 BCE–500 CE
Roman carpenters used a wide range of The earliest-known planes were Roman, with examples of the tool
woodworking tools, including a variety of files, discovered at Pompeii. The Roman tool worked in much the same
chisels, and gouges. A combined round and flat way as the modern plane. Roman planes came in a variety of sizes
file made from bronze was developed and was ranging from about 20cm (8in) long up to 43cm (17in) long.
widely used in the Iron Age.

Rome

ITALY

Naples
Pompeii
One plane found at
Pompeii measures
around 21cm (8in).

Roman gouge Roman file Roman chisel SICILY

FILE SHAPES BENCH PLANE

1100 CE

1600s

Files made of carburized steel were available in A widely used carpentry

RARE IVORY
Roman woodworking planes
a variety of shapes, including square, triangular, tool, the bench plane was made with ivory are rare.
and round. The tools were hardened after being used for smoothing wood The Goodmanham plane, found
cut to the desired shape and length by a sharp and straightening edges in 2000 in Yorkshire, northern
chisel and hammer. in furniture and house England, is one of the most complete
examples with a solid-ivory stock.
construction.

PLANES
c.1890

“THERE ARE ALSO FILES

MADE OF PURE STEEL The screw and lever adjustor for a plane’s iron was created,
replacing the wedge that was hammered in place.
… FOUR-CORNERED, The plane has changed little since.
THREE-CORNERED, Knob, front
AND ROUND.” handle, of plane.

THEOPHILUS PRESBYTER Modern plane

 CHOOSING A

Chisel
Shaping & Sharpening

Because chisels are such fundamental

woodworking tools, it’s important to select the
correct type for each task. A bevel-edged chisel is
designed for cutting dovetails and finer woodwork,
but its blade is not sturdy enough to chop out
a mortise. Conversely, a mortise chisel is too
cumbersome for most cabinetmaking jobs.

sel
se chi
Morti
194
195

el
echis
anes
Jap
 Mortise Chisel
☛☛What it is Heavy, square-edged steel
blade with broad neck. Hardwood handle
with steel hoop prevents splitting.
☛☛Use it for Chopping mortises and
levering out waste material without the
risk of the blade snapping.
☛☛How to use Hold the tool upright to
start chopping and use a mallet to strike

“
the handle.
A B LU N T CHISE L R E Q U IR E S ☛☛Look for Models with a leather
MO R E E FFO RT T O C U T W O O D
washer between the blade and handle
to absorb mallet blows.

”
C LE A N LY T HAN A S HA R P O N E
Firmer Chisel
☛☛What it is Tool with a rectangular-
section carbon-steel blade and a
hardwood or polypropylene handle.

his
el ☛☛Use it for Carpentry and joinery
rc work, particularly framing. Also general
Firme construction and DIY projects.
☛☛How to use Either grip the tool and
push with both hands, or use a mallet for
striking the handle.
☛☛Look for You may need to buy
secondhand, as this tool is much less
common nowadays.

Japanese Chisel
☛☛What it is Laminated blade (soft and
hard steel), with a hollow ground on back.
The oak handle has a steel hoop to
withstand hammer blows.
☛☛Use it for Cutting joints and fine
woodwork generally. Heavier versions are
specifically for mortise cutting.
☛☛How to use Strike with Japanese
hammer or use with two hands, like
Western chisels.
el ☛☛Look for Requires single bevel
dchis
dge (not two), when sharpening. Hollow
el-e back must be maintained as steel wears.
Bev

Bevel-edged Chisel
☛☛What it is Parallel steel blade with
shallow bevelled edges. Has a hardwood
or polypropylene handle.
☛☛Use it for Cutting pins and tails on
dovetail joints. Horizontal/vertical paring,
lightweight cuts, getting into corners.
☛☛How to use Grip tool with both hands
or use a mallet for striking handle.
☛☛Look for Boxwood handles can
be quite elaborate in shape, including
octagonal or bulbous.
 Steel ferrule
hides tang of
blade, driven
Shaping & Sharpening

Neck where blade deep into handle.

meets handle.

“ S HA R PE N
CO R R ECTLY BY U SIN G
A CHIS E L

A HO N IN G GUIDE
”
TOP VIEW

Cutting edge Leather washer

ground and honed to absorb shock
to specific angles. (on registered
196 pattern chisel).

197 Stout forged-steel

blade with square edges
and precision-ground
flat back.
SIDE VIEW

Blade end
angle is bevelled
to 25 degrees.

“ ALWAYS S T R IK E A HA R DW O O D
C HIS E L HA N D L E W IT H A MA LLET ,
”
Chisel tip
usually sharpened
N E V E R W IT H A HA M M E R
to 30 degrees.
 UCTURE OF A
Turned end

STR
of handle
reduced to Steel hoop

Mortise Chisel
accept hoop. reinforces the top
end of handle.

A mortise chisel’s blade has square edges, rather

than bevelled. This makes it much stronger, which
is important when levering out waste material
from a mortise to prevent the tool from breaking.
The handle is sturdier and traditionally made
from ash or hornbeam. It’s fitted with a steel hoop
to prevent splitting when striking with a mallet.

FOCUS ON…
Chisel Blades
Chisel blades are forged from carbon steel and come in various
widths, from 3mm (0.12in) on bevel-edge tools up to 50mm (2in)
on framing chisels. Lighter blades can be used to cut freehand
or with gentle mallet blows, although heavier chisels are simply
struck. Timber-framing chisels feature sturdier blades, which are
Steel hoop virtually unbreakable.
fitted tightly to
handle to prevent
wood splitting.

Mortise Tempered and hardened steel blade has

square edges for chopping mortises cleanly.
Designed to be struck with a mallet.

Dense hardwood handle Bevel-edge Finely ground bevels on edges enable

commonly ash, which tool to undercut and cut dovetails. Widths down to
is flexible and absorbs 3mm (0.12in). Likely to have boxwood handle.
mallet blows readily.

Japanese Laminated steel blade (hard back, softer

front) with hollow back. Creates extremely sharp edge.
Should be reshaped with a fine hammer occasionally.
 USING A

Mortise Chisel
Shaping & Sharpening

For chopping square or rectangular holes in timber, remember that the blade of a mortise
chisel is heavier and more suitable for the task than that of a bevel-edged or even a firmer
chisel. Always chop a mortise first before cutting the matching tenon. It’s much easier to
trim the tenon to fit, if necessary, than vice versa.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Check the blade Check the chisel blade
is the correct width to match the mortise and
that the edge is sharp.
☛☛Mark the mortise Mark mortise precisely
on the wood with correctly adjusted gauge
plus a try square.
☛☛Mark the waste With a pencil, cross-
hatch the waste to be removed from mortise
and tenon. If not, you could cut either the
wrong way.

198
199
Strike chisel
the same number
of times at each
cut to maintain
equal depth.

2 Make the cut

Strike the chisel firmly
with a mallet. Make a
series of cuts about 3mm
(0.12in) apart along the
mortise to the same depth
each time, keeping the
chisel vertical. Count the

1
number of strikes at each
Clamp and position position to repeat and match
Clamp the workpiece to the benchtop, the depth. Reverse the
close to a leg to transmit mallet blows chisel when you reach
down to the floor. With the chisel held the opposite end.
vertically, place the blade edge about Keep blade bevel-side
3mm (0.12in) in from the end of the down to remove the first
mortise, bevel facing inwards. layer of waste wood.
 FOCUS ON…
Chisel Bevels
The end of a chisel blade is always ground to an Bevel forces
wood fibres apart Wood splits as it
angle of 25 degrees; this is known as the primary
when cutting. is pushed apart by
bevel. A tiny secondary bevel of 30 degrees is created
chisel bevel.
by sharpening (honing) the blade on a stone. This
small additional bevel strengthens the blade edge
because it forces the fibres of the timber apart during
cutting, which reduces the force needed by the blade
to move through the wood.

3 Clear out the waste

Clean out the first layer of waste wood, keeping
the blade bevel-side down. Use the waste section
at each end of the mortise for leverage. Continue
chopping across the next layer of the mortise and
Waste sections
at ends can be
used for leverage,
pushing the rest
of the pieces out.
4 Complete the mortise
When you reach just over half the timber
depth, remove the waste at each end of the
mortise by moving the chisel just inside pencil
line and chopping downwards, keeping the blade
repeat the process, removing the waste at the end vertical. Turn the timber upside down, tip out the
of the section as before. chips, and repeat the process from opposite face.

After you finish

☛☛Check the cut Hold the blade of
a small try square inside the mortise

“ KEEP E D G E BO TH HA N D S B E HIN D T HE to check the end depths match. If not,

clean it up with the chisel.
CUTTI NG TO P R EV EN T IN J U RY
” ☛☛Mark the tenon Mark out a matching
tenon before resetting the mortise gauge.
 CHOOSING A

Plane
Shaping & Sharpening

Most home workshops need one or two bench planes. Defined

by their size, the most versatile are metal jack and smoothing
planes. A longer plane is better for getting boards straight,
removing higher areas to produce a flat surface. A shorter
plane tends to ride the contours on lengthy boards, although
it’s better for joints and finer work. You can still buy traditional
wooden planes, although these are trickier to adjust.
Smoothing plane

200
201
Wooden plane

“ A S HA R P , FIN E LY T U N E D
PLA N E SHO U L D P R O D U C E A
”
Jack plane
R IBBO N -L IK E S H AV ING

Japanese plane
Smoothing Plane Wooden Plane
☛☛What it is Iron body with carbon- ☛☛What it is Body of dense hardwood
steel blade, adjusts for cutting depth via (beech or hornbeam), with cutout for the
thumbwheel. Hardwood or plastic handle. steel blade, which is wedged in place.
☛☛Use it for Trimming joints, final ☛☛Use it for General planing tasks
cleaning of surfaces before sanding, depending on model, from preparing
planing smaller components to size. rough-sawn timber to final finishing.
☛☛How to use Set blade depth with the ☛☛How to use Gently tap upper edge
thumbwheel. Sight down the sole to check of blade with small hammer to increase
that the projecting blade is even. cutting depth. Tap rear of body to reduce it.
☛☛Look for No 4 is the most common ☛☛Look for Wooden planes with blade
size. No 4 1⁄2 a slightly wider and adjustment tend to be more expensive
heavier tool. than equivalent metal versions.

Jack Plane
☛☛What it is Iron body, carbon-steel

“
blade, adjusts cutting depth via
T HE L ON GE R thumbwheel. Hardwood or plastic handle.

T HE P L A N E ’S ☛☛Use it for Preparing rough-sawn

timber to size. Hanging doors, general
B OD Y , T HE carpentry and joinery work.
☛☛How to use Set blade depth with the
thumbwheel. Sight down the sole to check
M O R E E V E N LY IT that the projecting blade is even.
P RE PA RE S ☛☛Look for No 5 is the most common

”
size, No 51⁄2 a slightly wider, heavier tool.
A S U R FA C E Hardwood handles are most comfortable.

Japanese Plane
☛☛What it is Simple body from oak.
Sloping cutout to accommodate steel
blade, held in place with wedge.
☛☛Use it for Smaller tools for fine
finishing, longer ones for preparing timber.
Specific planes for chamfers and rebating.
☛☛How to use Japanese planes cut on
the pull stroke. Tap the end of the blade
to increase cutting depth.
☛☛Look for Laminated steel blades have
hollow backs, so a special hammer is
needed for eventual reshaping.

Block Plane
☛☛What it is Small iron tool that can
be used in one hand. Has a carbon-steel
blade, with depth and lateral adjusters.
☛☛Use it for Planing end grain, narrow
edges, chamfers, trimming joints, and fine
detailed work.
☛☛How to use Adjust blade for fine cut,
place palm over top of tool. Using two
hands will increase pressure.
☛☛Look for More sophisticated block
planes have adjustable throats for finer
Block plane control of shavings.
Shaping & Sharpening
TOP VIEW

Front handle
made of dense
hardwood or plastic
screwed to the body.

Frog screwed to
body, seats blade
at 45 degrees.

Brass screw
tightens screw cap,
cap iron, and blade
assembly against frog. Screw,
side view
Brass screw cap iron
with locking screw.
202
203
SIDE VIEW

Cast-iron body and sole

accurately machined to
lie completely flat.

Toe of plane where

downward pressure Steel blade
is applied at the projects through
start of cut. mouth in sole.

Blade
on sole
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Jack Plane
A jack plane is a traditional bench plane used for
preparing rough-sawn timber to size. In terms of
plane size, the No 5 jack plane makes a versatile
all-rounder for general carpentry and woodwork.
Bodies of metal planes are generally made of very
strong cast iron, although more upmarket models
may be made of bronze.

FOCUS ON…
Plane Sizes
Bench planes vary in length and width; some have specific jobs.
Each is defined by a number, such as No 4, as well as by a common
name: smoothing, jack, fore, etc. Blades (or plane irons) vary in size,
depending on tool width, but the most common sizes are 50mm (2in)
and 60mm (2.25in). Shorter planes are better for finishing timber,
Lateral while longer ones are perfect for flattening undulating surfaces.
adjuster lever
moves blade so that
it protrudes evenly
No 3
across width.

No 4

No 4 1⁄2

Rear handle
No 5
made from
hardwood or plastic
screwed to body. No 5 1⁄4

No 5 1⁄2

No 6

No 7

“ RUBBI N GC A N D LE WA X
PLANE WIT H
T HE SO L E O F THE
Minnow to whale The smallest plane is a No 1,
though it’s hard to find. Smoothing planes include No
No 8

W I LL RE D U C E THE EFFO RT
3 through to No 41⁄2, while Nos 5 and 51⁄2 are known
as jack planes. Even longer are the No 6 (fore) and

”
Nos 7 and 8 try or jointer planes. Superb for truing up
REQUI RE D WHEN PLA N IN G long boards, they are unwieldy and difficult to handle.
 USING A

Jack Plane
Shaping & Sharpening

The No 5, commonly known as a jack plane, is a good all-rounder when it comes to

choosing a plane for timber preparation. Used for planing wood square as well as
reducing material to exact dimensions, it’s long enough to true up the edge of
a door while not being too big to store in a tool box.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Check the blade Inspect the blade and
sharpen it, if required, on a suitable stone.
Remove any oil from the blade before using.
☛☛Secure the workpiece Either position the
timber securely in a vice or secure it to
the benchtop with a suitable clamp.

1 Adjust the blade

Hold the plane upside
down to check the
blade is projecting evenly
across its mouth. If it’s
2 Plane in position
Standing with feet apart, grasp the rear
handle with your index finger pointing down
the side of the frog. Applying downward pressure
on the front knob, push the plane forwards along
uneven, adjust the lateral the wood, following the grain. As you reach the
blade level. Turn depth- end of the workpiece, transfer the pressure from
adjuster wheel for the toe to the heel of the tool.
a fine cut. Twist depth
adjuster wheel.
 FOCUS ON…
Shaving Action
A correctly adjusted and sharpened plane will Blade cuts shaving,
create a thin shaving of wood as it moves across which is forced up and out.
the surface. As the blade severs the wood fibres, the
convex cap iron (or chip-breaker) forces a shaving
up through the mouth, which then curls backwards
in a string of small cracks. In most bench planes Cap iron channels
the blade is seated on the frog at 45 degrees, with and breaks
the bevel-side down. shavings without
clogging blade.

3 Square it off
Using a try or combination square,
check that the face edge is at 90
degrees to the adjacent planed surface
(the face side). If the edge is not square,
Face edge should
be at 90 degrees
to surface. 4 Check for level
The planed edge must also be flat, so
check this by tilting the plane on its
edge and sighting along it. With longer
timber it’s best to use a steel straight edge
Look for light beneath
the straight edge that
indicates gaps and
unlevel surfaces.

adjust the lateral lever of the plane or even a long spirit level. Always use
slightly to compensate and plane the a marking gauge for accuracy when
edge again. Keep checking until planing to width or thickness.
the edge is perfectly square.
After you finish
☛☛Clean the plane Brush away debris from
the tool and remove any shavings jammed
under the cap iron.
☛☛Store it safely If stored in an unheated
workshop, wipe the sole with an oily rag and
retract the blade.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

Y
OF
“ THE FEE L A ND B E AU T Y
FI N E LY CR AF T E D W O OD … T HE
R E FR E S HI N G S ME L L O F Y O U R W O R K S HO P…

T HE A B S O R B ING J O Y OF C U T T ING
A N D JO I N I NG T HAT M A K E S T HE HO U R S

R A CE BY… T HE S E A R E T HE R E A S O N S Y O U

LO V E WO O DW O RK ING .
JACK NEFF
”
 CHOOSING A

File or Rasp
Shaping & Sharpening

Used to shape both metal and wood, files and rasps

come in varying sizes and shapes: flat, half-round,
square and circular. Only files can be used on metal,
while traditional rasps and modern Microplane
blades are designed for efficient use on timber.
Needle files, with a range of profiles, are
miniature versions used for detailed work.

208 pla
ne
bla
de

209 Mic
ro

p
Ras
 “ R E P LGLACOINVEGS
WEAR W HE N
M IC R O P L A N E
B L A D E S A S T HETEETH ARE
IN C R E D IB LY S H A RP
”
file
und
Half-ro

Half-round File
☛☛What it is Carbon-steel tool with
rows of diagonal teeth. One face is flat,
reverse side half-round.
☛☛Use it for Sheet metals, cleaning up
sawn metalwork, sharpening garden tools.
Also shaping wood and general tasks.
☛☛How to use Grip end with thumb and
forefinger, grasp handle with other hand
and push tool forwards, keeping it level.
☛☛Look for Appropriate cut/coarseness
Microplane Blade type for job. Individual files often sold
without handles, so check when buying.
☛☛What it is A stainless-steel blade
with plastic handle and rows of razor-
sharp, chemically formed teeth that Rasp
create shavings when pushed on surface.
☛☛What it is
“
Tool with coarser teeth
USE A F I LE C A R D ☛☛Use it for Shaping plasterboard,
timber, and plastics rapidly and cleanly.
than a file. These may be punched by
machine or stitched by hand.
TO CLE A N T HE
Several profiles are available, including
angled blades. ☛☛Use it for Removing waste areas of
wood rapidly. Preliminary shaping work
CLOGGED TE E TH ☛☛How to use Fit blade to holder, before filing, but leaves coarse marks.
move tool back and forth over surface

”
ON A FI L E O R R A SP to be shaped. The tool cuts on the push ☛☛How to use Grip end with thumb and
stroke, but blade can be reversed to cut forefinger, grasp handle with other hand
on the pull stroke. and push tool forwards, keeping it level.

☛☛Look for Some blades can also be ☛☛Look for Handmade rasps are
fitted to hacksaw frames. Tools may have efficient but expensive to buy. A 250mm
either fixed or snap-in handles. (10in) size is a useful all-rounder.
 CHOOSING A

Gouge or Spokeshave
Shaping & Sharpening

Often a curved rather than straight cutting tool is required whenever

you’re working with wood, whether the project is carving a bowl or
shaping a chair leg. This is the realm of gouges and spokeshaves.
A gouge is basically a chisel with a curved profile blade, which
is used for carving and scribing cuts. The twin-handled
spokeshave works in a similar way to a bench plane,
but its design allows it to be used to create
convex or concave cuts.

ge
el gou
-c ann
Out
210
211

ve
kesha
le spo
t-so
Fla

uge
ne l go
In-can
 Out-cannel Gouge
☛☛What it is A convex-profile steel
blade with cutting edge ground on the
outside. Hardwood handle.
☛☛Use it for Carving and hollowing
out hard- and softwoods.

“
☛☛How to use Select suitable blade
S L IP S T ON E
MA K E SU R E Y O U R width. Position blade on timber and
push gouge handle or strike with mallet.
MATCHES T HE G O U GE C U RVAT U R E . IF IT ☛☛Look for Handles can vary in size
D O E S N ’T , Y O U W IL L S T R U G G L E T O G E T and shape, so check for comfort and
balance. Sharpen with a slipstone.

A K EEN E D G E WHE N S HA R P E N IN G
” Flat-sole Spokeshave
☛☛What it is Cast-iron body with twin
handles. Blade is ground at 25 degrees
and secured with a wing nut and cap iron.
☛☛Use it for Creating convex curves in
timber, particularly narrow edges; shaping
spindles and similar.
☛☛How to use With the blade barely out,
grip tool with both hands, push forwards,
following grain. Adjust depth as required.
☛☛Look for Elaborate tools have twin
thumbscrews to adjust blade depth.
More basic tools are trickier to adjust.

In-cannel Gouge
☛☛What it is Convex profile steel blade
with cutting edge ground on inside.
Hardwood handle.
☛☛Use it for Trimming timber to match
adjacent items, such as curved mortise
and tenon joints on chairs.
☛☛How to use Select the blade to match
curve of profile. Position blade on timber
and strike with mallet.
☛☛Look for Handles can vary in size
and shape, so check for comfort and
balance. Sharpen with a slipstone.

Rounded-sole Spokeshave
☛☛What it is Cast-iron body with twin
handles. Blade is ground at 25 degrees
and secured with wing nut and cap iron.
☛☛Use it for Creating smooth, concave
curves in hard- and softwoods,
particularly on narrow edges.
☛☛How to use With blade barely out,
grip tool with both hands, push forwards
e following grain. Adjust depth as required.
eshav
le s
pok ☛☛Look for Elaborate tools have twin
so thumbscrews to adjust blade depth.
nd ed- More basic tools are trickier to adjust.
Rou
 CHOOSING A

Sharpening
Shaping & Sharpening

Stone
An edge tool needs sharpening with an
abrasive stone. Whether it’s a plane, chisel,
or spokeshave, a consistent bevel must be
maintained along the edge. Although
natural sharpening stones are available,
the most popular and cheapest are made
from synthetic materials. A coarse stone
will hone rapidly, but this is usually
e
followed with a finer grade. ton
Oils

212 view
)
213 ton
e (sid
e

Oils

e
ston
m ond
Dia

“ ADD THE C O R R E C T L U B R IC A N T
WHEN U SIN G A S H A RP E N ING
STO N E TO P R E V E N T C L O G G IN G
”
 Oilstone
☛☛What it is Often a combination of two
faces: fine, medium or coarse grit; silicon
carbide or aluminium oxide particles.
☛☛Use it for Use the coarse side for
removing nicks or restoring primary
bevel, fine side for secondary bevel.
☛☛How to use Best used with a honing
guide to maintain constant angle of bevel
edge. Wear stone evenly, not just in middle.
☛☛Look for Use with light oil to float
particles of steel away during sharpening
process. Clean with paraffin when stone
finally clogs and cutting is slow.

Diamond Stone
☛☛What it is Durable plastic or metal
base embedded with diamond particles
on one or both faces. Grades from extra
coarse to fine.
☛☛Use it for Rapid sharpening of any
edge tool, from chisels (fine) to garden
implements (medium to coarse).
☛☛How to use Lubricate with water
(garden plant sprayer is ideal) or cutting
fluid to float particles away.
☛☛Look for Check surface is completely
flat with the edge of a steel rule. Small
diamond stone ideal for penknives.

Japanese Waterstone
☛☛What it is Synthetic or natural stone
(expensive). Coarse (800 grit), medium
(1,000 grit) up to very fine (8,000 grit).
☛☛Use it for Honing woodworking tools.
Finer grades will produce polished blades
and razor-sharp edges.
ne ☛☛How to use Submerge in water for
rsto
ate several minutes. Use Japanese Nagura
ne se w stone to build up a slurry for honing tools.
a
Jap
☛☛Look for Soft stone wears quickly
and is damaged easily. Surface can be
restored with use of diamond stone.

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 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

Y
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LI FE
THE E XP E C TAT IO NS
D EPE N D U P O N DIL IG E NC E ;
OF

THE M E CH AN IC T HAT W O U L D

PE R FE C T HIS W OR K M U S T F IR S T

S HA RP E N HIS T O O L S .

CONFUCIUS
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 IN TA I N T O O L S F O
MA R Tools Inspection

Shaping &
Shaping & Sharpening
■ Check cutting edge for
nicks or damage

Sharpening Chisels

For accuracy and reliability, shaping tools need to

be maintained properly. Look after them and you ■ Check for rust if tool
can expect years of work in return. is stored in unheated
workshop – wipe oil from
sole before use
SHARPENING EDGE TOOLS
Edge tools must be sharp for efficient Planes
cutting and safety. Blunt tools are more
likely to slip in use and require greater
effort for often mediocre results.

1 Flatten back
With the back of the blade flat
on the sharpening stone, run the
■ Check teeth are not
clogged with debris
blade across the surface to remove from previous job
any slight burrs. Use oil or water
Files
216 (to suit the stone) to float the steel

217
particles away and prevent clogging.
& Rasps
2
Chisel blade
Hone secondary bevel must be kept
With the blade held at 30 degrees, move sharp for
the blade in a figure-of-eight pattern across the accurate cuts.
stone. It’s important to keep the angle constant,
so use a honing guide here. ■ Check cutting edge for
nicks or damage

3 Remove burr
Lay the blade flat on the stone again and slide it over
the surface a couple of times. This will remove the burr and Gouges &
Spokeshaves
leave a sharp edge. Wipe the stone clean when you have finished.

ADJUSTING DEPTH OF CUT

With a sharpened blade fitted, make sure it is seated correctly in the
tool. The blade should protrude evenly through the mouth on each side.
■ Check for cracks or
Planes blemishes –particularly
Hold the plane upside down to check the blade is even. If not, with Japanese waterstones
it will cut to one side, so use the lateral lever for adjustment. Set
the cutting depth by rotating the knurled thumbwheel adjuster. Sharpening ■ Stone should be dead
flat – check with edge

Spokeshaves
Simple spokeshaves do not have blade adjusters but are simply
Stones of steel rule

tightened with a wingnut. On adjustable spokeshaves, slacken

off the cap iron, rotate the twin thumbscrews evenly, then
retighten the front locking screw.
 Sharpening Cleaning Adjustment Storage
■ Primary bevel is 25 ■ Either keep chisels in leather tool roll or fit plastic
degrees, secondary bevel guards to ends of blades – different size guards
is 30 degrees – use honing to fit standard blade widths
guide to maintain
consistent angle

■ Primary bevel is 25 ■ Cap iron should be set ■ Wipe sole with camellia oil or oily rag (remember
degrees, secondary bevel about 2mm (0.08in) from to wipe clean before using tool)
is 30 degrees – use honing end of blade – use lateral
guide to maintain adjustment lever for even
consistent angle blade protrusion through
mouth – set depth of cut
with thumbwheel adjuster

■ Remove clogged debris with ■ Store in tool box or hang from hook
file card

■ Usually just one bevel when ■ Spokeshaves may have two ■ Either keep gouges in leather tool roll or hang
sharpening gouges – hone adjuster thumbscrews for in tool rack
spokeshave blade at setting depth of cut – ■ Keep spokeshaves in toolbox or hang from hook
around 30 degrees adjust these for even blade

■ Oilstones should be cleaned ■ Keep rectangular oilstone in hardwood box made to fit
with paraffin and abrasive ■ Avoid storing wet Japanese waterstones in unheated
pad – wash slurry from workshop in winter – they may crack
Japanese waterstone
after use
■ To keep stones flat, rub
stone across sheet of
medium grit silicon carbide
paper taped to flat surface
 Cork block Aluminium oxide
Abrasive pad paper
Garnet paper

Sandblocks and Papers

Aluminium oxide
Velcro block Steel wool paper

H E T O O L S
T for
Finishing & Decorating
From achieving a satin-smooth surface on wood to putting
on that final lick of paint, these tools will help you achieve
the perfect finish to your projects.

Paintbrushes
Stencil brush
Angled brush

Foam brush
Paint pad Synthetic brush

Radiator brush Natural-fibre brush

 Long-
handled Decorators sponge
roller
Bucket and string

Wallpapering scissors

Basic roller Foam roller

Rollers Standard roller

Seam Wallpapering brush
roller

Wallpapering Tools
Short-pile Medium- Long-pile Sheepskin roller
roller pile roller roller

Cabinet Scrapers

Rectangular scraper Scraper plane

Tile cutter Tile spacer

Tiling Tools Hook scraper

Grout finisher
Grout remover Oval scraper

Replaceable-
blade scraper

Burnisher Curved scraper

Tiling sponge Notched spreader Squeegee Handled scraper

 HISTORY OF

Finishing & Decorating

FIRST SCRAPERS FIRST BRUSHES
2.6–1.7 MYA

In Paleolithic times flat stone

scrapers were used to carry out
2.5 MYA Cave paintings found in the Périgord region of
France and Altamira in Spain show that brushes
Paris

basic planing, such as smoothing were used to apply pigment to the cave walls FRANCE
out rough spots. The stone scraper during the Paleolithic period.
Moss or animal
is an ancestor of the metal cabinet hair brushes used
Reeds, bristles, twigs,
scrapers used today. or small bones were at cave sites in
used at Altamira. Périgord.

Flat surface. SPAIN

PORTUGAL
Madrid

Lisbon

Paleolithic scraper

EARLY TILES ABRASIVE SAND

4000 BCE

3000–1900 BCE

Some of the earliest decorative The Bronze Age saw the widespread
TILED WALLS
Tile manufacture flourished in Mesopotamia,
tiles are from ancient Egypt and use of sand as an abrasive to as evidenced by the glazed decorative block
are around 7,000 years old. The finish metal axe heads, while in covering the Processional Wall and Ishtar
use of tiles spread through ancient Egypt during the same period, Gate in Babylon
civilizations of Greece and Rome, sandstone was used to smooth (modern-day Iraq) built at this time.
as well as Asia and North Africa. architectural stone.
THE PROCESSIONAL WAY was half
a mile long and its 15m (49ft) high
walls displayed

120 LIONS
“DECORATING IS LIKE
MATH, A GAME OF ADDING
AND SUBTRACTING.”
CHARLOTTE MOSS, AMERICAN INTERIOR DESIGNER
300B CE THE PAINTBRUSH ISLAMIC TILE ART

800s
The paintbrush is thought to Early examples of Islamic tile “GEOMETRY
have been invented by Meng Tian,
a Qin Dynasty general. Early
art at Tunisia’s Great Mosque
of Kairouan, dating from 836 ce,
ENLIGHTENS THE
brushes were designed for use in reveal intricate geometric patterns, INTELLECT AND SETS
calligraphy but later models were
used for painting pottery. The
such as eight-pointed stars, that
would be perfected and elaborated
ONE’S MIND RIGHT.”
brushes consisted of a bamboo over coming centuries. IBN KHALDUN,
handle and animal hair, such as ARAB HISTORIAN
rabbit hair or longer hog bristles.

EARLY SANDPAPER WALLPAPER REPLACES TAPESTRIES

1200s

1500s
In China, ground shells, sand,
50 ROLLS In Europe, wallpaper was being manufactured
Many of the first wallpapers
seeds, and natural gum were used were hand-painted. In France, and was particularly popular in England
to make sandpaper. Naturally rough for example, Jean Bourdichon and France. In England, following Henry VIII’s
sharkskin is also thought to have decorated 50 rolls of paper with excommunication from the Catholic Church,
been used for the same purpose. angels on a blue background wallpaper replaced the tapestries that had
for Louis XI in 1481. The
papers were mounted on panels
often been imported from France.
so they could be moved easily.

TILES IN THE AMERICAS WALLPAPER PRINTER MACHINE-MADE BRUSHES

1500s

1785

1800s
Following the Spanish colonization of Central The first machine for printing Early paintbrushes were
and South America, tile production evolved. wallpaper was invented by handmade, but in the 19th century,
Hand-made and brightly painted tiles from Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf. machines began being developed
Mexico are prized to this day. His machine printed coloured tints in various parts of the world for
onto sheets of paper. In 1798, manufacturing the handles, mixing
Intricate patterns Frenchman Nicolas-Louis Robert and tapering the bristles, and
are hand-painted.
invented a machine that could finally gluing them into place.
print unbroken rolls of paper, but
this technology wasn’t applied to
wallpaper until the next century.

Mexican tiles Bristles secured

in ferule.
GLASSPAPER EARLY ROLLER
1833

1925

Particles of glass were used to make early The New Yorker magazine made
forms of sandpaper, known as glasspaper. the first mention of the paint roller
Around this time glasspaper started to be in one of its 1925 editions, where Tapered bristles.
mass-produced, thanks to new adhesive it praised the tool’s virtues for
techniques developed by John Oakey in decorating interiors, describing
London, UK. it as a “phenomenal success”.
19th-century paintbrushes
 CHOOSING

Abrasives
Finishing & Decorating

& Sanding Blocks

Sanding is a tedious but necessary task to get the best finish
before varnishing or painting woodwork and other surfaces.
Using the most suitable abrasive paper and a backing
block helps to reduce the drudgery. Many abrasive
grades (denoted by grit size) will be required
on most jobs.

per
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 Steel Wool
☛☛What it is Fine carbon-steel strands
meshed together and available in wad or
roll form. Several grades, from 4 (coarse)
to 0000 (very fine).
☛☛Use it for Applying wax polish to
wood, cleaning glass, marble, and
delicate surfaces; removing rust, restoring
metal surfaces to a bright finish.
er ☛☛How to use Cut a piece with scissors.
e pap
m oxid Wear thin work gloves if using steel wool
iniu with white spirit or meths.
m
Alu ☛☛Look for Avoid using on oak surfaces
Velcro Block as it may react and cause staining. Use
stainless-steel wool if in doubt.

☛☛What it is Lightweight, rigid

polyurethane foam block with a Velcro
base for hook-and-loop abrasive discs. Cork Block
☛☛Use it for General sanding work ☛☛What it is Compressed cork block to
where fast, convenient change of abrasive wrap abrasive paper around. Light weight
grits is required. is comfortable for long sanding sessions.
☛☛How to use Attach abrasive paper ☛☛Use it for Its size allows a standard
disc and wrap it around sides. Grip finger sheet of abrasive paper to be torn into
moulds and sand with grain. four equal pieces without wastage.
☛☛Look for Make sure that abrasive ☛☛How to use Fold paper around block
disc diameter (125mm and 150mm/5in and grip both sides. Apply light pressure
and 6in) matches size of block. and move across the surface.
☛☛Look for Check that the surface of
Aluminium Oxide Paper the block is flat and not damaged.

kb
lock
☛☛What it is Long-lasting particles
(harder than garnet) resin-bonded to Sanding Pad
Cor heavy paper backing. Standard sheet size
(280 x 230mm / 11 x 9in) or rolls 115mm ☛☛What it is Double-sided, low-density
foam sponge, faces coated with silicon
(4.5in) wide. Grades from 40–320 grit. carbide particles. Grades: 60 to 220 grit.
☛☛Use it for Painting and decorating
☛☛Use it for Sanding curved and
preparation, coarser sanding of hard- and
profiled surfaces. Finer grades ideal for
softwoods. Cut rolls to fit power sanders.
preparing painted surfaces for recoating.
☛☛How to use Tear to size and wrap
☛☛How to use Use dry or wet. Dip into
around cork block or similar. water. Wash under the tap to clean pad.
☛☛Look for It’s more economical to buy
☛☛Look for Deeper, high-density blocks
abrasive in roll form and cut to size, are coated on all four sides, so ideal for
rather than individual sheets. sanding into corners.

Garnet Paper
☛☛What it is Crushed stone particles
glued to paper backing. Less common,
but lasts far longer than glass paper.
☛☛Use it for Sanding hard- and
softwoods in cabinetmaking, fine
furniture, musical-instrument making.

ng
pad ☛☛How to use Tear sheet to size and
di wrap around cork block. Sand in direction
San of grain, working through the grades.
☛☛Look for Grades from 40 to 320 grit.
Packs of 25 sheets is most economical
way to buy.
 USING A

Sanding Block
Finishing & Decorating

You can use abrasive paper by holding it in your fingers, but you’ll obtain a crisper surface
if it’s wrapped around a sanding block. A traditional cork block can seem stiff to use, but it
offers some resilience, unlike a piece of hardwood of similar size. When paired with suitable
abrasive paper, this is an effective tool for sanding flat areas.

The Process

Before you start

☛☛Get the right grit Make sure you
have several grades of abrasive ready.
The grit size will be printed on the
back of paper abrasives.
☛☛Protect yourself Always wear a
dust mask when sanding, no matter
what the material.
☛☛Prepare the work area Try to sand
timber outdoors, if possible. When
sanding indoors, open windows but
close doors to contain the dust.
224 ☛☛Protect your hands You may
225 choose to wear flexible work gloves if
sanding for long periods, to avoid skin
abrasions due to long contact.

2 Size up the paper

Prepare the abrasive paper to fit the
Folding and
creasing

1
the paper first
sanding block. Allow enough excess to
allows it to tear
Select the right grade run up the sides and provide a grip for thumb more cleanly.
Choose the most appropriate abrasive and fingers. Creasing and tearing paper along
for the job. If you’re uncertain about the edge of a bench will give a fairly clean
what grade to use, start with a finer grit edge. Thin paper can be sliced easily with a
(high number) and work back from there. steel rule. Avoid scissors as the abrasive will
It’s harder to remove coarser sanding blunt these quickly. A standard sheet should
marks from wood than lighter ones. be folded into four.
FOCUS ON…
s
Abrasive Particle Large and jagged Small and uniform
grit size is for quick, grit size is for finer,
Abrasive sheets consist of particles of hard materials coarse sanding. finishing work.
bonded to backing paper. Grit size refers to the
density of particles per 6.4sq cm (1sq in) of abrasive
paper. Coarser particles are larger and cut more Coating
rapidly than finer particles, which are more numerous.
Glass particles (traditional glasspaper) are relatively
Adhesive
soft, garnet is medium, while aluminium oxide is
harder still. Hardest of all is silicon carbide.
Backing

4 Sand it all over

Sand the edges of a workpiece, keeping the
block flat. Rounded edges and profiles (such
as traditional skirting or architrave) can be sanded

3
by wrapping the paper around a hardwood dowel
Cover the block Overlap enough to suit the contour. Remove sharp corners and
Place the sanding block on the paper, paper on the edges with a piece of worn abrasive paper.
sides to create
then wrap the paper firmly around the
a firm hold.
block, creasing it along each corner so that After you finish
the excess fits flat against the sides. When ☛☛Clean it up Brush all surfaces clean
sanding timber, start with the coarsest grade after sanding and vacuum up the dust if
first and finish with the finest (240 grit or working indoors.
higher). Never sand across the grain, as the ☛☛Store any excess Keep sheets of
resulting scratches will be tough to remove. abrasive paper in plastic bags if storing
them in an unheated workshop.
 CHOOSING A

Paintbrush
Finishing & Decorating

Choosing the right paintbrush can seem like an

overwhelming task. Many different brush sizes are sh
bru
available to use for different tasks and you also Angl
ed
need to choose between natural or synthetic fibres,
depending on the type of paint you will be using.
As a general rule, the smaller the area to paint,
the smaller the brush should be.

226
227
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 sh
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Nat

Radiator Brush
☛☛What it is Brush with a long handle,
often with an angled head.
☛☛Use it for Painting behind radiators
without removing them first. Also useful
for applying wallpaper to a wall behind
a radiator.
☛☛How to use
Natural-fibre Brush
Don’t overload the brush.
Work from the bottom up and paint in
upward strokes.
☛☛What it is Brush with animal-hair
☛☛Look for The correct bristle type for
bristles, such as badger or hog.
the paint being used. An angled head can
☛☛Use it for Oil-based paints and make the job easier.
varnishes due to their high absorbency.
☛☛How to use Load brush lightly with
Paint Pad
Angled Brush paint to create a sharp edge.
☛☛Look for A good quality brush to last ☛☛What it is Rectangular pad with
a long time. Check for a sharp, even edge. tightly packed foam. Comes in a range
☛☛What it is A narrow brush with
of sizes, some with adjustable handles.
a slanted edge to the bristles.
☛☛Use it for Cutting in the join between
walls and ceilings, or around door and Foam Brush ☛☛Use it for Painting walls. Holds less
paint than roller so needs loading more
window frames. often. Good for edges, smooth surfaces.
☛☛What it is “Brush” made from Creates less splatter then a roller.
☛☛How to use Brush is best held in sponge, usually chisel-shaped.
a pencil grip. Drag the brush down the
☛☛Use it for Creating a smooth finish
☛☛How to use Dip into paint tray, scrape
join of the wall. off excess. Drag paint in one direction
with oil-based paints, varnishes, stains. along surface. Avoid back/forth motion.
☛☛Look for Tight bristles that create
☛☛How to use Dip a third of sponge
a very sharp straight edge to them.
length into paint. Scrape off excess and
☛☛Look for Good-quality foam on
Comfortable grip to hold. the pad. An adjustable handle is always
paint in long strokes in one direction. a good idea.
☛☛Look for A tight knit in the foam.

Synthetic Brush
Loose foam can leave bits in the paint.

☛☛What it is Brush with bristles made

from man-made materials such as nylon Stencil Brush
or polyester, or a mix of both.
☛☛What it is Specialist, usually round
int
pad ☛☛Use it for Best used with water-based brush with short, tight, pile bristles.
Pa latex paints like emulsion as synthetic
bristles don’t absorb a lot of water. ☛☛Use it for Dabbing paint through
a stencil.
☛☛How to use Dip brush into paint
☛☛How to use Load brush with tiny
up to about one-third of bristle length. amount of paint, dab it over the stencil.
Scrape excess off before applying to wall.
☛☛Look for Quality, by flicking brush ☛☛Look for Choose a head the right
size for the stencil. Smaller heads are
a few times to see if bristles come out.
generally easier to control.
Cheap brushes lose bristles in paintwork.
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Paintbrush
Finishing & Decorating

Although they vary in size, shape, and purpose, all paintbrushes are essentially made the
same way. The handle is connected to a bundle of filaments, which is normally referred to
as the bristle, by a metal clamp known as a ferule. The differences arise in terms of the type
of bristle used (natural or synthetic) and how the end of the bristle is finished, as well as
the size of brush and type of handle it's mounted on.
Top end of
handle allows
for directional
action.

228
229
Ferrule is a metal
clamp that holds the
bristles into brush.

Bristle edges come in

different shapes: tapered,
chiselled, angled,
or straight.

Filaments also known as

bristles, made from either Crimp is where
natural or synthetic fibres. the ferrule
presses onto
brush handle.
 USING A

Paintbrush
FOCUS ON…
Bristles
A paintbrush functions because the filaments hold and
channel paint all the way to the centre of the bristle. As the
brush is dragged down the surface to be painted, the pressure A paintbrush is ideal for intricate or detailed
exerted on the bristle forces the paint out from the centre
of the bristle to the filament edges. This is why the edges of decorating where you need a smooth finish.
bristles need to be sharp in order to create a crisp, neat line For example, use a paintbrush to cover joins
of paint on whatever it is that is being painted. between walls and ceilings where rollers can’t
reach, or around light fittings and switches.

Bottom end The Process

of handle Hole for hanging up
provides stability and storing brushes
when painting. after washing. Before you start
☛☛Flick the brush Flick the bristles of a new
paintbrush back and forth a few times to release
any loose bristles.
TOP VIEW

☛☛Use a kettle A paint kettle (small paint bucket)

makes it easier to keep the paintbrush handle clean
and stops paint building up around the paint-tin rim.

1 Load the brush

Dip the paintbrush into the paint so that around one-
third of the bristle length is covered. Brush the excess
away on the side of the paint kettle or tin. Hold a wall
brush by wrapping your entire hand around the handle;
your thumb will be on one side of the ferrule, and your

“ QUALI TY D IR ECT LY
INVEST
fingers on the other. If painting trim, hold the smaller
trim brush as you would a pencil.

2
AFFECTS F IN ISH, SO
Paint in a stripe
I N A GOO D SET O F BR U SHES Drag the brush in one long stripe along the area that
F OR L I FE A N D L O O K needs to be painted. When the paintbrush starts to
“dry wipe”, stop dragging and reload it. Repeat until
AFTER THEM WE LL
” you’ve covered the desired area.

3 Hide your work

To ease away brush marks, feather the brush lightly
on the wall in a back and forth motion.

After you finish

☛☛Wrap it up If you’re planning to use it for a second
VIEW
SIDE

coat, wrap the brush in plastic wrap.

☛☛Wash it up To clean, wash the brush under running
water, brushing it against the bottom of the sink to work
the paint out of the middle of the bristles. Wrap the
bristle in a folded paper towel to help keep its shape.
 CHOOSING A

Roller
Finishing & Decorating

Like most decorating tools, the range and selection

of paint rollers available can be very confusing.
The type you need depends not only on the job
you want to do, but also the type of paint you
are using. As a rule of thumb, the more textured
the wall, the thicker pile you need to have
on your roller head.

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“ T HE R OL L E R C O VE R IT S E L F IS
C A L L E D T HE NA P A N D C A N B E M A D E F R OM
MAN Y D IF F E R E N T MAT E RIA L S
”
“ COVERWR A P
PLASTI C
WET PA IN T R O LLE R S IN
BET WEEN C O AT S
TO PREV E N T D RY IN G
” Basic Roller
☛☛What it is Small roller to be used
on a smaller roller base and handle.
☛☛Use it for Cutting in. Applying
water-based paints, such as emulsion,
to small areas, like window trims.

Standard Roller ☛☛How to use Use with a small paint

tray. Dip roller head into paint, roll back
over flat part of the tray to remove excess.
☛☛What it is Medium-handled roller,
☛☛Look for Normally comes in pack
usually in pack with a roller tray. Roller
sleeve fits over a cage on handle end. with foam rollers. Ensure hole for the
roller head fits the roller handle.
☛☛Use it for Water-based paints, like
emulsion on large areas like walls.
☛☛How to use Pour some paint into the
trough on the tray, dip in the roller, roll it Sheepskin Cover
back over the ridged tray slope to cover
the head and remove excess. ☛☛What it is A natural-fibre roller
head, made from sheepskin, lambswool
☛☛Look for A comfortable handle and or a lambswool mix. Sometimes called
a medium pile to cope with various a lambswool roller cover.
general painting jobs.
☛☛Use it for Oil-based paint, varnish,
stain. Can also be used with emulsion
Long-handled Roller paint, but as these are more expensive
rollers, standard is better choice there.
c ove
r ☛☛What it is A telescopic extension
☛☛How to use Dip the roller head
skin pole that either fits the end of a normal into the paint and roll back over the flat
Sheep roller handle or is an independent roller surface to remove excess. Apply paint on
that extends. to the wall by rolling up and down evenly.
☛☛Use it for Ceilings, tops of walls,
☛☛Look for Mohair is the best type to
painting floors without bending over. buy. Choose a long pile if you’re painting
☛☛How to use Attach to roller handle a textured wall.
before loading with paint, then load paint
in normal way. Extend to right length and
roll paint onto surface.
Short-, Medium-,
☛☛Look for Ensure your regular roller
handle has a hole so that the extension
handle will fit it.
and Long-pile Covers
☛☛What it is Roller heads or sleeves

Foam Roller
with different lengths of fibres (nap).
☛☛Use it for Different wall textures
ver that need different lengths. The flatter
-pil
e co ☛☛What it is Budget alternative to the surface, the smoother the roller needed
g traditional fibre or napped rollers.
Lon Absorbs paint very easily.
– so match a foam roller to flat wood, but
a long-pile roller to textured ceilings.
☛☛Use it for Very smooth surfaces,
☛☛How to use Load the roller head by
as the foam dispenses paint more evenly dipping it into paint, then remove excess
than fibre heads. Also good for thin paint. by rolling over the flat part of the tray.
☛☛How to use Load the roller head
☛☛Look for Choose the type and length
as normal, remove excess thoroughly. of pile to match both surface type and
☛☛Look for Value packs, as foam heads paint type. For example, applying
are mainly for one-time use. water-based paints on a smooth surface
requires a short-pile roller.
 UCTURE OF A
STR

Roller
Finishing & Decorating

Rollers are great tools, designed for painting large, flat

areas. They can come in different shapes and sizes, but
they all work in the same way. A roller head is attached
to a bar or cage that rolls around when pushed, and it
is this mechanism and combination of parts that allow
Plastic sleeve core paint to be spread smoothly and evenly.
of roller head
keeps textured
sleeve rigid.

Metal
handle core
usually made
from steel.

232 Attachment section

233 allows some handles to
slot or screw into poles
of various lengths.
Spring cage holds
the roller head,
allowing it to rotate.

Roller head nap

comes in many
lengths and
materials.

Plastic end caps

on cage keeps
the roller head
in place.
 USING A

“ YOU M AY HO LD A R O L L ER
FOR A LO N G T IME, SO BE S U R E
Roller
TO USE A C O M FO RTA B L E Paint rollers are the most sensible choice
for painting the body of walls, floors, and
HANDLE TO PR E V E N T ceilings. For floors and ceilings, investing in
BLI STERS A N D CA LLO U SES
” an extension pole is essential if you want to
make the job go quicker and more easily.

The Process
Textured grip of rubber Before you start
or plastic for greater
comfort when painting. ☛☛Choose the right tool Select the right nap length
and size of roller for the type of surface you want to paint.
EXTENDED VIEW

Smooth rollers for smooth surfaces, thicker/longer naps

for textured ones.
☛☛Line the tray Line your roller tray with a plastic bag
to avoid having to clean it out.

Screw threads
1 Pour the paint
Fill the trough in the roller tray about two-thirds full
with paint. Ensure the roller head is pushed firmly
onto the roller cage before you begin.

2
allow attachment
to extension pole. Load the roller
COLLAPSED VIEW

Dip the roller head into the paint. Pull it backwards

and roll it over the flat surface of the tray a few times
to spread the paint evenly over the roller head and
remove any excess. This will help to prevent drips.

3 Paint the wall

To paint a wall, start by rolling the top half, so that
any drips trail onto unpainted surface beneath. Work
from bottom to top, and overlap roller widths each time,
to ensure smooth coverage. Paint in sections, a few feet
FOCUS ON… at a time. When you reach a corner, roll as closely to it as

Nap Lengths
you can without touching, then start on the adjacent wall.

Different roller nap lengths work better on After you finish

differently textured surfaces. As a general ☛☛Keep it covered Wrap the roller in plastic wrap or
guideline, you need a smooth roller for a smooth a plastic bag if you take a break or are planning to use
surface. For rough surfaces such as masonry or it again for a second coat.
artex, use a long-haired roller. The longer the nap ☛☛Clean it up Put the roller head under running water
or hair, the more paint the roller can hold, and while scraping paint down its sides with a plastic scraper.
Or use your hands (in rubber gloves) to squeeze paint out.
the more bumps it can cover effectively.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

Y
“ O N LY T HO S E W HO HAV E T HE

PATI E N C E TO DO S IMP L E T HIN G S

PE R FEC T LY E V E R A C Q U IR E

T HE SKILL TO DO DIF F IC U LT
THIN GS E A S ILY.
FRIEDRICH VON SCHILLER
”
 CHOOSING

Wallpapering
Finishing & Decorating

Tools
Wallpapering can be a straightforward task when
you use the right tools in the right order. From
loading up with paste to rolling down the last
seam, if you take time to get organized and
learn how to use the different tools correctly,
your project will run smoothly.

ket
Buc

er
roll
236 Sea
m

237

ush
per br
llpa
Wa
 “ W E T T OODRY
LS
T O OL S
K E E P T HE AWAY F R O M T H E
OR ALL YOUR TOOLS WILL
E N D U P D R IP P IN G IN S T IC K Y GLUE
”
Wallpaper Scissors
☛☛What it is Very long scissors with
angled handles and very sharp blades.
☛☛Use it for Cutting wallpaper to the
correct length.
☛☛How to use Mark how long your drop
needs to be, then use the scissors to cut
along that line. Can also be used to trim
wet paper when it’s on the wall.
☛☛Look for A comfortable handle and
long blade. The scissors need to be very
sharp, so store wallpaper scissors
separately from general-purpose scissors
to avoid blunting them with everyday use.

Decorating Sponge
lpape
rsciss
ors
Bucket ☛☛What it is A medium-sized, thick
Wal cellulose sponge.
☛☛What it is Large, wide-mouthed
bucket, with handle. ☛☛Use it for Wiping and cleaning
☛☛Use it for Mixing wallpaper adhesive. excess wallpaper adhesive off wallpaper
Tie string, or a rubber band, across after it has been hung.
bucket on handle hooks to wipe excess ☛☛How to use Dip sponge in clean
paste off glue brush. water, gently wringing it out before use. If
☛☛How to use Pour in warm water and it’s too dry, it can tear the paper; too wet
add wallpaper adhesive slowly, stirring and it will drip and damage the paper.
with a stick or wooden spoon as you go. ☛☛Look for A high-quality sponge to
☛☛Look for A sturdy handle is essential. hold the right amount of water.
Some buckets come with a strap so you
can wipe excess glue off the brush.
Wallpaper Brush
Seam Roller ☛☛What it is A long, wide brush with
soft, medium-length bristles and a flat
handle, usually made of wood.
☛☛What it is Small plastic roller with
a smooth surface. Usually around 4–5cm ☛☛Use it for Smoothing out the surface
(1.5–2in) in width. of wallpaper when it has been hung to
remove creases and bumps.
☛☛Use it for Rolling over the seams of
two sections of wallpaper so they push ☛☛How to use Once a section of
down to the wall and meet together neatly. wallpaper is on the wall, brush from the
centre of the drop to the edge, moving
e
☛☛How to use Once two sections
from top to bottom and brushing gently
ng (“drops”) of paper are on wall, gently roll
spo as you go.
ting down the join between them. Wipe off
ora excess glue that pushes out of seam. ☛☛Look for A little lip or dimple in
Dec
the handle will make it easier to hold –
☛☛Look for High-quality rollers are
very helpful if you have a lot of paper-
slightly soft to touch so they don’t damage
the paper by crushing it as it’s rolled. hanging to do.
 CHOOSING

Tiling Tools
Finishing & Decorating

ers
Tiling is one home-improvement activity that spac
Tile
requires a lot of different tools. While this can
seem daunting at first, if you make sure that
you use them in the right way, it’s easy to achieve
a professional-looking finish. Larger tools such
as tile cutters are sold individually, but the most
basic items can often be purchased in packs,
making it very straightforward to find all
you need to get the job done.

ter
cut
Tile

238
239

ee
eeg
Squ

nge
spo
ng
Tili
 er
pread
ch ed s
Not

r
ove
trem
G rou

ishe
r Squeegee
fin
ut ☛☛What it is Long rubber tool, often
Gro found on other side of a notched spreader.
☛☛Use it for Applying grout, removing
the initial excess left as grout is spread.
☛☛How to use Once grout has been
Tile Spacers Notched Spreader applied, draw squeegee along tiles to
force grout into the gaps between them,
removing any excess at the same time.
☛☛What it is Small plastic crosses in ☛☛What it is A flat tool 15–30cm
☛☛Look for A length that works with
different sizes. Normally sold in packs. (6–12in) long with notches along the side.
Can be made of either plastic or metal. the size of tile.
☛☛Use it for Ensuring tiles are evenly
spaced so grout lines will be aligned.
☛☛How to use Place in between each
☛☛Use it for Spreading adhesive onto
walls or floors for tiles to rest on. The Grout Remover
tile when applying. In larger tiles, place notches create lines in the adhesive,
a few spacers between each tile and the which allows air in to dry it properly. ☛☛What it is A tool with a plastic
handle and a thin, jagged metal blade.
next in line. ☛☛How to use Apply even layer of
☛☛Use it for Breaking up and removing
adhesive to wall or floor, scrape along it
☛☛Look for A spacer that is the same
with the notched side to create grooves. old or broken grout.
size as the desired grout lines. Larger
grout lines need wider spacers. Press tile into adhesive with even pressure. ☛☛How to use Drag the blade down
the grout line repeatedly to break it up.
☛☛Look for Small plastic spreaders are
adequate for basic jobs. For larger jobs, ☛☛Look for A good grip will make it
Tile Cutter
a large metal spreader is better. easier to apply the necessary pressure.

☛☛What it is A manual device that

scores a tile, allowing the tile to be Tiling Sponge Grout Finisher
snapped apart by applying pressure.
☛☛What it is A large sponge, sometimes ☛☛What it is A two-edged tool, normally
☛☛Use it for Making straight cuts in with a plastic handle on the back. plastic, with a small thin blade at one end
ceramic tiles. For harder tiles, a and a ball on the other.
wet-wheel power cutter works best. ☛☛Use it for Cleaning excess grout off
tiles before it hardens. ☛☛Use it for Applying grout to corners
☛☛How to use Mark where the tile
☛☛How to use Soak sponge in water, and edges. The ball end is used to make
should be cut, drag the blade along the wipe over the tiles’ surface. Rinse and grout lines look neat and even.
mark. Line the push arm over the centre
of the mark, push down to split the tile.
repeat often to remove excess grout. ☛☛How to use Apply grout to the blade
and push it into the tiles. Drag the ball
☛☛Look for Ensure the cutter can ☛☛Look for Good quality. A cheap along the line to create a neat finish.
sponge will break up, leaving bits
handle the tile depth. Floor tiles are
thicker than wall tiles and need a larger
on the surface. Ensure that you can hold ☛☛Look for A good grip and feel in
the sponge comfortably in your hands. the hand. Inexpensive price, as this
blade and push arm. is a very basic tool.
 CHOOSING A

Cabinet
Finishing & Decorating

Scraper eable
-blad
escra
per

Scrapers are simple tools used for the final lac

Rep
preparation of timber surfaces before applying a
finish. They have one or more cutting edges that
are held at a set angle to the surface. Traditional
cabinet scrapers are sharpened with a file and
burnisher, while more modern tools have disposable
blades that are suitable for use on paintwork.

240
241

r
crape
dl ed s
Han

“ O N E O F T HE S IMP L E S T
W O O D W O R K IN G T O O L S , A S C R A P E R

Bur
nish
er CREATES A PERFECT FINISH
”
 per
tscra
bine
ap e ca
ed -sh
Mix

er
scrap
i net
cab
gular
tan
Rec

Mixed-shape
Cabinet Scrapers
☛☛What they are Thin, flexible
rs tempered-steel plates with cutting edges
cr ape formed with burnisher. Rectangular and
in et s various convex and concave curves.
cab
ape ☛☛Use them for Fine scraping of flat
ed-sh
Mix timber to produce final finish. Shaped
scrapers for profiled mouldings such as
beading, skirting, and architrave.

“
☛☛How to use Hold scraper with both
A CO R R ECTLY S HAR P E NE D hands. Flex steel with your thumbs to
make cut as you push tool across wood.
CA BIN ET SCR A P ER W IL L P R O D U C E A ☛☛Look for Heat is generated when

”
scraping, so stick tape to face of tool.
PA P ER -T HIN S HAVIN G ON WOOD A burnisher and file are needed to form
cutting edges.

Replaceable-blade Handled Scraper Burnisher

Scraper ☛☛What it is Twin-handled cast-steel ☛☛What it is Hardened steel blade,
body with flat sole holds scraper blade which may be oval or circular in section.
☛☛What it is Aluminium and soft-grip at angle. Adjustable tension and depth. Fitted with hardwood handle.
polypropylene handle with reversible
tungsten carbide blade at one end. ☛☛Use it for Fine scraping of planed ☛☛Use it for Forming a burr or hooked
wood and veneered surfaces. Ideal tool for edge on steel cabinet scrapers.
☛☛Use it for Removing dried glue, wild hardwood grain that tears with
☛☛How to use File edge square with
varnish, rust, old paintwork prior to normal planing.
decorating. Cleaning floors and removing scraper held in vice. Lay scraper flat on
defects from surfaces generally. ☛☛How to use Secure blade in tool so bench. Hold burnisher flat, draw tool
it’s touching benchtop. Adjust tension along the edge. Put scraper in vice again
☛☛How to use Grip in one hand and and push tool forwards across timber. and repeat with burnisher horizontal, then
pull scraper backwards. Cuts on pull at slight angle to form hooked edge.
stroke rather than push stroke. ☛☛Look for The blade is sharpened like
a normal cabinet scraper, so you will need ☛☛Look for Keep the blade clean with
☛☛Look for Check width of tool when a burnisher. steel wool or fine abrasive paper.
buying replacement blades.
 E PHILOSOPH
T H of
tools

Y
ONE
“ EA CH P L A N K … C A N HAV E O N LY

IDEAL USE. T HE W O O D W O R K E R

MU ST FIN D T HIS ID E A L U S E A N D

CR EATE A N OB J E C T OF U T IL IT Y
TO MA N , A ND IF N AT U RE S M IL E S ,
A N O BJECT O F L AS T ING B E A UT Y.
GEORGE NAKASHIMA
”
 IN TA I N T O O L S F O
MA R Tools Inspection

Finishing &
Finishing & Decorating
■ Check bristles on brushes
– when you see lots of
bristles start to come

Decorating
out in paint it shows

Paintbrushes
paintbrush is nearing the
end of its useable life

These tools get dirty by nature, so factor in some

cleaning time when using them. If paint or glue
dry onto the tools they can no longer be used.

CLEAN AS YOU GO
It’s great to have a dedicated place to
Rollers
clean tools, like a utility room or outdoor
sink as they can cause a mess when
cleaning. To avoid excess material
drying on the tool while it’s in use
keep a rag to hand and wipe the
tool regularly.

244
1 Scrape away excess
Use a scraper to scrape excess Wallpapering
Tools
paint, glue, or adhesive off used
paintbrushes or rollers.
245 Rinse brushes

2 Soap and water

Run the tool under warm water and
use regular washing-up liquid to loosen
under running
soapy water.

any materials. For stubborn dried-on paint, leave

brushes to soak in warm water for up to two hours.
For solvent-based paints you may need to use a little
solvent-based cleaner, such as white spirit, to soak
off residue in a secure container. Tiling
3 Clean and dry
Ensure tool is thoroughly clean before wiping over with
Tools
a dry cloth and leaving to dry in a well-ventilated area. Do not
dispose of any solvents down the sink. Cover the container you
used and leave it until any paint has sunk to the bottom. Store
any remaining solvent for use in future. Allow paint residue
to dry out before sealing and throwing away in a bin.
■ Check cutting edges for
any damage

Cabinet
Scrapers
 Cleaning Repair Tips Storage
■ For solvent-based paints ■ Only a very expensive brush ■ If you don’t have access to ■ When drying brushes out after cleaning, hang bristles
use white spirit to clean is worth repairing and this a cleaning area straight down so water doesn’t run into ferule, loosening glue
paint off and then rinse should be rare as expensive away, wrap brushes in
through with warm water. brushes don’t break very plastic so they don’t dry
For water-based paints use often. Bristles can be out as this makes them
regular washing-up liquid re-glued into ferule but harder to clean
and water this is a tricky job.
Sometimes a manufacturer
will offer a repair service

■ Some rollers are ■ Not worth repair as price ■ If your paint tray cracks ■ Store roller heads upright to dry them
inexpensive and therefore point is relatively low mid-way through a job,
can be thrown away after tape it up with gaffer tape
a job – for others scrape and cover tray with a bag
paint off with plastic to allow you to continue
scraper under warm water
and rinse through until
water runs clear

■ Have a rag to hand when ■ Most wallpapering tools are ■ Store all wallpapering tools together so they don’t get
wallpapering to clean glue not worth repairing; they mixed up with other tools and they are always ready
tools as you go won’t break often but are to use when you come to wallpaper
inexpensive, so if they
break it’s worth just buying
new ones
■ Scissors can become
blunt over time but can
be sharpened using a
sharpening stone

■ Wipe all adhesive and ■ Store all tiling tools together so they don’t get mixed
grout off tools as you go. up with other tools
Then clean with soap and
warm water

■ Wipe to remove any debris ■ Use a burnisher to rapidly ■ Keep wrapped up and in toolbox, to protect sharp edges
after each use restore the cutting edge ■ Store in dry area to prevent corrosion
 A beet knife 77 wallpaper brushes 237
A-frame levels 18 bench planes 193 buckets 237
abrasives 220, 225 bevel-edged chisel 195, 197 Burke, James 144
choosing 222–23 chisel bevels 198–99 burnishers 241
using 224–25 bevel square 19 burrs, removing 216
Acheulean axes 46 bidens 169 bypass loppers 91
Index

adjustable spanner 111 billhooks 63 bypass secateurs 89

adzes 47, 61 Black & Decker 101 structure of 92–93
agriculture, early 144, 168 blades using 94–95
allen keys 113 chisel 197
alligator wrenches 113
alloys, iron 47
craft knives 73
hacksaw 55 C
aluminium oxide paper 223 microplane 209 C-spanners 111
American grass whip 79 sharpening 96, 188 cabinet scrapers
Ames, Captain John 169 stone 46 choosing 240–41
antler picks 145 block planes 201 maintaining 244–45
anvil loppers 91 bonsai snips 89 cabinet screwdrivers 103
anvil secateurs 89, 93 border spade 171 calipers 19
Archimedes drill 119 Bourdichon, Jean 221 choosing 30–31
Arnot, Arthur James 101 bow drills 100 digital calipers 31, 32–33
augers 100, 175 braces, swing 119 cam clamps 131
248 axes bradawls 119 capacitance 33
249 axe head shapes 65 breaking and striking tools 142–65 carpenters mallet 149
choosing 60–63, 157 hammers 146–53 carpenters pencil 21
history of 46, 47, 144 history of 144–45 carpentry, Roman 193
ice axes 157 maintenance 164–65 carving mallets 149
maintaining 96–97 picks and mattocks 156–59 cast iron 47, 145, 169
pickaxes 157, 158–59 wrecking bars 160–61 Cellini, Benvenuto 28
splitting axes 61, 64–67 bronze 169 centre punches 149
azebiki 51 Bronze Age tools 47, 100, 145, chain wrenches 113
192, 200, 220 chalk lines 18, 21

B brushes
bristles 229
charging batteries 140
China, early decorating and
ball-pein hammers 147 choosing paintbrushes 226–27 finishing tools 221
Bartol, C A 108 history of 220, 221 chisels
battery care 140 machine-made 221 bevel-edged chisel 195, 197
beam type torque wrench maintaining 244–45 bevels 198–99
115 structure of 228–29 blades 197
Beecher, Henry Ward 132 using 229 choosing 194–95
 early 192, 193 combination ring-box abrasives and sanding
Japanese chisels 195, 197 spanners 111 blocks 222–25
maintaining 216–17 combination sets 37 cabinet scrapers 240–41
mortise chisels 195, 197 combination squares 35 history of 220–21
structure of 196–97 structure of 36–37 maintaining 244–45
using 198–99 using 38–39 paintbrushes 226–29
chopping and cutting tools 44–97 Confucius 214 rollers 230–33
history of 46–47 coping saws 51 tiling tools 238–39
maintaining 96–97 copper 47 wallpapering tools 236–37
Cicero 169 cordless drills 101, 120 demolition bar 161
circlip pliers 135 cork blocks 223 depth of cut, adjusting 216
clamps craft knives 71 dial calipers 31
choosing 130–31 sharpening 96 diamond stones 213
maintaining 140–41 crimping pliers 135 dibbers
claw hammers 10, 145, 147 Cro-Magnon man 46 choosing 182–83
structure of 150–51 crosscut saws 47 maintaining 188–89
using 152–53 cross-pein hammers 147 digging and groundwork tools
claw mattocks 157 crowbars 161 166–89
claws, long-handled garden 177 cubits 18, 19 history of 144, 168–69
cleaning tools Culkin, John M 47 hoes and cultivators 176–77
cutting and chopping tools 96–97 cultivators maintaining 188–89
digging and groundwork tools choosing 176–77 post-hole diggers 174–75
188–89 maintaining 188–89 shovels and spades 170–73
finishing and decorating tools cutting and chopping tools 44–97 trowels, forks, and dibbers 161,
244–45 axes 60–67 171, 182–85
fixing and fastening tools 140–41 history of 46–47 digital calipers 31
shaping and sharpening tools knives 70–75 using 32–33
216–17 loppers and pruners 88–95 digital levels 41
striking and breaking tools maintaining 96–97 dividers
164–65 saws 48–57 choosing 30–31
cleavers 63 scythes and sickles 76–81 history of 19
club hammers 149 shears 84–85 dovetail saw 49
combi drills cutting gauges 23 dozuki 51
size 123 drainage spade 175
structure of 122–23
using 124–25 D draw hoes 177
drill bits 121
combination pliers 135 damage, checking tools for 140 drills 118–25
structure of 136–37 decorating and finishing tools bow drills 100
using 138–39 218–45 choosing 118–21
 combi drills 120, 122–25 screwdrivers 102–107 foam rollers 231
history of 100, 101 vices 126–29 folding rules 27
maintaining 140–41 wrenches 110–17 forks
drives 101, 105 feeler gauges 27 choosing 171, 182–83
Dutch hoe 177 felling axes 65 maintaining 188–89
Dyson, James 100 files Fuller, Thomas 168
Index

choosing 208–209

E early 192, 193

maintaining 216–17 G
edge tools finishing and decorating tools G clamps 131
edging shears 85 218–45 Gandhi, Mahatma 178
sharpening 216 abrasives and sanding blocks garden rake 177
Edward I, King 19 222–25 garden scissors 89
Egyptian tools cabinet scrapers 240–41 gardening tools, early 169
A-frame levels 18 history of 220–21 garnet paper 223
chalk lines 18 maintaining 244–45 gents saw 49
files and chisels 192 paintbrushes 226–29 Giza, Great Pyramid of 18
plumb lines 18 rollers 230–33 glasspaper 221
metal axes and adzes 47 tiling tools 238–39 gloves 9
rulers 19 wallpapering tools 236–37 Goodmanham plane 193
squares 18 firmer chisel 195 gouges
250 tiles 220 first aid kits 9 choosing 210–11
251 Einstein, Albert 68 fixing and fastening tools 98–141 early 192, 193
Emerson, Ralph Waldo 186 clamps 130–31 maintaining 216–17
English scythes 78 drills and drill bits 118–25 grafters 175
structure of 80–81 history of 100–101 grass shears 85
using 81 maintaining 140–41 gravers 46
environment 8 pincers and pliers 134–39 Gray, Thomas 46
eye protection 9 screwdrivers 102–107 Great Mosque of Kairouan,
vices 126–29 Tunisia 221

F wrenches 110–17
fixings 13
Great Orme, North Wales 145
Great Pyramid of Giza, Egypt 18
F clamps 131 flat shovel 171 Greece, ancient 19, 145
fastening and fixing tools 98–141 flat-sole spokeshave 211 Grime’s Grave, Norfolk 145
clamps 130–31 flint blades 46 groundwork and digging tools
drills and drill bits 118–25 flogging ring spanner 113 166–89
history of 100–101 floorboard saws 49 history of 168–69
maintaining 140–41 flower snips 89, 93 hoes and cultivators 176–77
pincers and pliers 134–39 foam brushes 227 maintaining 188–89
 post-hole diggers 174–75 finishing and decorating tools Japanese waterstones 213
shovels and spades 170–73 220–21 jewellers screwdrivers 103
trowels 182–85 fixing and fastening tools junior hacksaws 51
grouting tools 239 100–101
measuring and marking
K
H tools 18–19
shaping and sharpening tools Kelvin, Lord 19
hacksaws 51 192–93 Kenya 46
structure of 52–53 striking and breaking tools Kiarostami, Abbas 58
using 54–55 144–45 knapping 46
half-round file 209 hoes 176–77, 180–81 knives 47, 70–71
hammer mattock 157 choosing 176–77 the cut 75
hammers 13, 146–53 early 168, 169 history 46, 47
choosing 146–49 head types 180 maintaining 96–97
claw hammers 10, 145, 147–53 maintaining 188–89 utility knives 71, 72–75
hammer heads 151 structure of 180–81 Kundera, Milan 154
history of 144, 145 using 181
maintaining 164–65
L
the strike 153
hand-axes, early 46 I laser measures 27
hand claw cultivator 177 Ibn Khaldun 221 lawn shears 85
hand drills 119 ice axes 157 leaf rakes 177
hand forks 183 impact damage 140 Leonardo da Vinci 19
handsaws 49 in-cannel gouges 211 levels
structure of 56–57 iron 47, 145, 169 A-frames 18
using 57 Iron Age 100, 145 choosing 40–41
hand slashers 77 iron cranks 101 spirit levels 41, 42–43
hand trowels 183 Islamic tile art 221 lever action 139
hand vices 127 ivory 193 light 8
handled scrapers 241 lightweight tools 169
handled knives 46
hardpoint saws 49 J long-handled garden claws 177
long-handled loppers 91
hatches 61 jack planes 201 long-handled rollers 231
heat 8 structure of 202–203 long-handled slashers 77
Henry VIII, King 221 Japanese chisels 195, 197 long-nosed pliers 137
history of tools Japanese hammers 147 loppers
cutting and chopping tools 46–47 Japanese planes 201 choosing 88–91
digging and groundwork tools Japanese saws 51 maintaining 96–97
168–69 Japanese shears 85 Louis XI, King 221
 M Mesolithic Era 46 O
machetes 78, 79 Mesopotamian tools 18, 46, Oakey, John 221
mains tester screwdrivers 47, 220 Oberkampf, Christophe-Philippe
103 metals, early use of 47 221
maintaining tools Michelangelo 192 obsidian tools 192
cutting and chopping tools microplane blades 209 oilstones 213
Index

96–97 minerals, identifying 192 Old Stone Age 144

digging and groundwork tools miner’s maul 144 oscillating hoe 177
188–89 mitre square 35 out-cannel gouge 211
finishing and decorating tools mixed-shape cabinet scrapers
244–45
fixing and fastening tools
241
Mohs, Friedrich 192 P, Q
140–41 Mohs Scale 192 paint pads 227
shaping and sharpening tools mole grips 135 paintbrushes
216–17 Molleville, Antoine de bristles 229
striking and breaking tools 47 choosing 226–27
164–65 monkey wrenches, history early 220, 221
mallets 13 of 101 machine-made 221
mandrill pickaxes 157 mortise chisels 195, 197 maintaining 244–45
manure fork 171 mortise gauges 21 structure of 228–29
marking and measuring tools 12, structure of 22–23 using 229
252 16–25 using 24–25 pala 169
253 history of 18–19 Moss, Charlotte 220 Paleolithic tools 100,
choosing 20–21 moulding bar 161 220
mortise gauges 21, 22–25 multi-angle vice 127 parang machete 78
mattocks 144, 145, 156–57 multipurpose axes 61 pein hammers 145
maintaining 164–65 multitools 71 pencils 21
measurements 18, 19 picks
measuring tools 12, 16–17,
26–43 N antler picks 145
choosing 156–57
calipers 30–33 nail punches 149 history of 144, 145
choosing 26–27 Nakashima, George 242 maintaining 164–65
history of 18–19 natural-fibre brushes railroad pickaxe 157
levels 40–43 227 striking action 158
squares 34–39 Neff, Jack 206 structure 158–59
mechanics vice 127, 129 Neolithic tools 144, 145, using 159
medieval tools 19, 47, 101, 168, 192 pin hammers 147
169 notched spreader 239 pincers
Meng Tian 221 nuts, history of 101 choosing 134–35
 early 100 R rounded-sole spokeshave 211
maintaining 140–41 radiator brushes 227 royal cubit 18, 19
planes railroad pickaxe 157 rubber mallets 149
adjusting depth of cut 216 rakes 169, 177 rules 19, 27
bench planes 193 rasps rust 140
choosing 200–201 choosing 208–209 ryobas 51
early 193 maintaining 216–17
jack planes 201–205
maintaining 216–17
ratchet screwdrivers 103
structure of 104–105 S
plane sizes 203 using 106–107 safety 9
using 204–205 Renaissance dividers 19 sand, abrasive 220
pliers 11 replaceable-blade scraper 241 sanding blocks 13, 223–25
choosing 134–35 retractable folding utility knife choosing 222–23
combination pliers 135–39 71 using a sanding block 224–25
early 100 right angles 39 sandpaper 221
maintaining 140–41 ring box spanner with ratchet sarculum 169
Pliny the Elder 47 drives 111 sash clamps 131
plumb bobs 18, 41 Robert, Nicolas Louis 221 saw horses 15
plumbing wrench 111 rollers 230–33 saws
pocket levels 41 choosing 230–31 choosing 48–51
Pompeii 193 early 221 hacksaws 52–55
post-hole diggers maintaining 244–45 handsaws 56–57
choosing 174–75 nap lengths 233 history of 47
maintaining 188–89 seam rollers 237 maintaining 96–97
post levels 41 structure of 232–33 teeth 47
power 8 using 233 scaffold spanners 113
Pozidriv screwdrivers 103 Roman tools Schiller, Friedrich von 108
propelling pencil 21 bronze shovels 169 scissors 89, 237
Protagoras 18 carpentry 193 scoring action 25
pruners 51, 71 claw hammers and pein scrapers
bypass secateurs 89, 92–93 hammers 145 burnishers 241
choosing 88–91 dividers and calipers 19 early 46, 220
maintaining 96–97 gardening tools 169 handled scraper 241
pry bar 161 planes 193 maintaining 216–17
Publilius Syrus 144 pump drills 100 mixed-shape cabinet scrapers
pump-action screwdrivers saw development 47 241
103 spades 169 replaceable-blade scraper 241
pump drills 100 tiles 220 screw vices 101
quick-action clamps 131 round-mouth shovel 171 screwdrivers 11
 choosing 102–103 topiary shears 85, 86–87 spirit levels 41
maintaining 140–41 sheds, tool 14–15 history of 19
ratchet screwdrivers 103, sheepskin roller cover 231 structure of 42–43
104–107 shovels using 43
screws choosing 170–71 splitting axes 61
drives 101 early 169 structure of 64–65
Index

history of 101 maintaining 188–89 using 66–67

screw patterns 105 sickles spokeshaves
threads 107 choosing 76–79 adjusting depth of cut 216
scribers 21 early 46 choosing 210–11
scythes maintaining 96–97 sponges 237, 239
choosing 76–79 side axes 61, 65 spreaders, notched 239
cutting motion 81 side-cutter pliers 135 spring calipers 31
English scythes 78, 80–81 slashers 77 spring clamps 131
maintaining 96–97 sledgehammers 149 spring dividers 31
seam rollers 237 sliding bevel 35 spring-loaded small pliers 137
secateurs smelting 100, 169, 192 squares
anvil secateurs 89 smoothing plane 201 bevel square 19
bypass secateurs 89, 92–95 snips 89, 93 choosing 34–35
early 47 socket wrenches 101, 111 combination squares 35, 36–39
security 8 soft hammers 144 history of 18
254 Sennedjem 18 solo clamps 131 squeegee 239
255 shaft holes 145 spades 170–73 Staffordshire billhooks 63
shaping and sharpening tools choosing 170–71 stainless steel 47
190–217 drainage spade 175 standard rollers 231
chisels 194–99 early 169 steel 47
files and rasps 208–209 handle shapes 173 steel rules 27
gouges and spokeshaves maintaining 188–89 steel wool 223
210–11 structure of 172–73 stencil brushes 227
history of 192–93 using 173 stone tools 46, 192, 220
maintaining 216–17 spanners 10 stones, sharpening 212–13
planes 200–205 adjustable spanner 111 storage
sharpening blades 96, 188 C-spanners 111 batteries 140
sharpening stones 212–13, combination ring-box tools 8, 164
216–17 spanners 111 striking action 46, 153, 158
shaving action 205 flogging ring spanner 113 striking and breaking tools
shears ring-box spanner with ratchet 142–65
choosing 84–85 drives 111 hammers 146–53
maintaining 96–97 scaffold spanners 113 history of 144–45
 maintaining 164–65 head shapes 185 choosing 110–13
picks and mattocks 156–59 maintaining 188–89 history of 101
wrecking bars 160–61 structure of 184–85 maintaining 140–41
string lines 27 using 185 torque wrenches 114–16
stubby screwdrivers 103 try squares 35 yard 19
Sumerian cubit 18 tweezers 100 Yorkshire billhooks 63
swing braces 119
Swiss Army knife 71
swivel vice 127 U
synthetic brushes 227 utility bars 161
utility knives 71

T the cut 75
structure of 72–73
T-handle torque wrench 115 using 74–75
tape measures 11, 12, 27
teeth, saw 56
tenon saws 49 V
Theophilus Presbyter 193 Velcro block 223
threads, screw 107 vices
tiles, early 220, 221 choosing 126–27
tiling tools early 101
choosing 238–39 maintaining 140–41
maintaining 244–45 mechanics vice 127, 128–29
tool belts 10–11
tool boxes and bags 12–13
tool sheds 14–15 W, Y
topiary shears 85 wallpaper, early 221
structure of 86–87 wallpapering tools
using 87 choosing 236–37
torque 117 maintaining 244–45
torque settings 125 waterstones, Japanese 213
torque wrenches 113 weed slashers 77
structure of 114–15 widgers 183
using 116–17 wooden tools 168, 201
trammel heads 31 woodwork vice 127
transplanting trowels 183 work areas, planning 8–9
trowels 182–85 work benches 15
choosing 182–83 wrecking bars 160–61
early 168 wrenches 110–15
 DK would like to thank the following people ABOUT THE AUTHORS
for their assistance in the publication of Nick Offerman Actor, Humorist, Author, Woodworker.
this book: Mandy Earey, Simon Murrell, A native of Minooka, Illinois, Nick Offerman learned basic
and Charlotte Johnson for design assistance; carpentry from his father, and the further use of tools from
Victoria Pyke for proofreading; Jamie Ambrose his farmer uncles and grandfathers. In Chicago, Offerman
Acknowledgments

for research; Brian Lawrence and Gary Wade launched his professional acting career and also built
for hand-modelling; John Spence for advice scenery and props to supplement his meagre acting income.
and assistance on set; MMS Marketing After earning a couple of feature film roles, Offerman
Services for photography and logistics. Special relocated to Hollywood to further pursue his acting career
thanks to the following for the kind donation where he also continued to work as a carpenter building
of tools or assistance in sourcing images: cabins and decks while landing film and television work.
Phil Davy and John Read. Since 2000, Offerman owns and operates Offerman
Woodshop in California where he and a team of redoubtable
MMS Photography American woodworkers create good times, fine furniture,
www.mms-ww.com and other sundry items. Last October, Offerman released
Axminster Tools & Machinery his third New York Times Bestseller, Good Clean Fun:
www.axminster.co.uk Misadventures in Sawdust at Offerman Woodshop.
His previous books are Paddle Your Own Canoe:
Niwaki Ltd One Man’s Fundamentals for Delicious Living (2013),
www.niwaki.com followed by Gumption: Relighting the Torch of Freedom
with America’s Gutsiest Troublemakers (2015).
Stanley Black & Decker
www.stanleyblackanddecker.com Phil Davy has been crafting things from wood since he
was a boy. His broad expertise includes making musical
Timeless Tools instruments, running woodwork training workshops,
www.timelesstools.co.uk teaching carpentry and joinery, as well as being a qualified
wood machinist. Phil joined “Good Woodworking” magazine
PICTURE CREDITS as Technical Editor when it was launched in 1992, going on
256 The publisher would like to thank the following for their to edit Britain’s biggest-selling woodwork magazine for nine
kind permission to reproduce their photographs: years. He remains as a Consultant Editor.
(Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left;
r-right; t-top) Jo Behari set up the UK’s first all-female home improvement
8 123RF.com: donatas1205 (tr). 8-9 Alex Rosa: (cb). 9 123RF.com: and property maintenance company, Home Jane, which has
Darius Dzinnik / Dar1930 (t). 84-85 Niwaki Ltd - www.niwaki.com: won many awards. She co-authored The Girls Guide to
(Japanese shears). 88 Niwaki Ltd - www.niwaki.com: (cla). 89 DIY and co-presented the Channel 4 television show Make,
Niwaki Ltd - www.niwaki.com: (ca). 200 Niwaki Ltd - www.niwaki. Do and Mend. She is also the DIY expert columnist for
com: (b). 246-247 Alex Rosa.
“House Beautiful“ magazine.
All other images © Dorling Kindersley
For further information see: www.dkimages.com Luke Edwardes-Evans is a journalist and former editor
of “Land Rover World”, “Winning”, “Cycle Sport”,
“Cycling Active” and “Tour” magazines. Other books he has
contributed to include: The Advanced Cyclist’s Training
Manual and DK’s The Complete Bike Owner’s Manual.
Matt Jackson is a landscape consultant, has worked
in horticulture for more than 20 years, and now designs
and restores heritage gardens. He has written about
gardening in The Telegraph, and a book on
Biodynamic & Lunar Gardening.