What Should Be Piston Ring Gap For 4e Engine

Last Updated on Sun, 19 Jul 2020 | Toyota Corolla E11

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13 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times by hand to check for any obvious binding.

20.11 Apply a 2 mm wide bead of sealant to the main bearing ladder

20.8a Rotate the thrustwasher into position

with the oil grooves facing outwards with the oil grooves facing outwards

20.9 Main bearing cap bolt tightening sequence - 4E-FE and 4A-FE Non-VVT-i engines

VVT-i engines

10 Make sure the crankshaft journals are clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in the block.
Clean the faces of the bearings in the main bearing ladder, the apply lubricant to them.
11 Apply a 2 mm wide bead of sealant (Toyota No 08826-00080) to the main bearing ladder (see
illustration). Install the main bearing ladder within 3 minutes or the sealant will harden.

12 Refit the main bearing ladder bolts, and tighten the inner row of 10 bolts in sequence to the Stage
1 torque setting, followed by the Stage 2 angle-tightening setting (see illustration). Tighten the
remaining main bearing ladder bolts to the specified torque.

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13 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times by hand to check for any obvious binding.

20.12 Main bearing ladder bolt tightening sequence - 4ZZ-FE and 3ZZ-FE VVT-i engines

21.3 Align the hole in the bearing with the oil hole in the rod

21.5a Piston ring end gap positions for the 1.3 litre engine

21.5b Piston ring end gap positions for the 1.6 litre non-VVT-i engine

21.3 Align the hole in the bearing with the oil hole in the rod

14 Check the crankshaft endfloat with a feeler gauge or a dial indicator as described in Section 12.
The endfloat should be correct if the crankshaft thrust faces aren't worn or damaged and new
thrustwashers have been installed.

15 Install a new main oil seal, then bolt the retainer to the block (where applicable) - see Part A of
this Chapter.

21 Pistons/connecting rods

1 Before installing the piston/connecting rod assemblies, the cylinder walls must be perfectly clean,
the top edge of each cylinder must be chamfered, and the crankshaft must be in place.
2 Remove the cap from the end of the number one connecting rod (refer to the marks made during
removal). Remove the original bearing shells and wipe the bearing surfaces of the connecting rod
and cap with a clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept spotlessly clean.

3 Clean the back side of the new upper bearing shell, then lay it in place in the connecting rod. Make
sure the tab on the bearing fits into the recess in the rod so the oil holes line up (see illustration).
Don't hammer the bearing insert into place and be very careful not to nick or gouge the bearing face.

4 Clean the back side of the other bearing shell and install it in the rod cap. Again, make sure the tab
on the bearing fits into the recess

21.5a Piston ring end gap positions for the 1.3 litre engine in the cap, and don't apply any lubricant.
It's critically important that the mating surfaces of the bearing and connecting rod are perfectly
clean and oil-free when they're assembled.

5 Position the piston ring gaps at staggered intervals around the piston (see illustrations).

6 Slip a section of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod cap bolt to protect the cylinder
bore.

7 Lubricate the piston and rings with clean engine oil and attach a piston ring compressor to the
piston. Leave the skirt protruding about 8.0 mm to guide the piston into the cylinder. The rings must
be compressed until they're flush with the piston.

8 Rotate the crankshaft until the number one connecting rod journal is at BDC (bottom dead centre)
and apply a coat of engine oil to the cylinder wall.

9 With the dimple or arrow on top of the piston (see illustration) facing the front of the engine,
gently insert the piston/connecting rod assembly into the number one cylinder bore and rest the
bottom edge of the ring compressor on the engine block.

10 Tap the top edge of the ring compressor to make sure it's contacting the block around its entire
circumference.

11 Gently tap on the top of the piston with the end of a wooden hammer handle (see illustration)
while guiding the end of the connecting rod into place on the crankshaft journal. The piston rings
may try to pop out of the ring compressor just before entering the cylinder bore, so keep some
downward pressure on the ring compressor. Work

21.5b Piston ring end gap positions for the 1.6 litre non-VVT-i engine slowly, and if any resistance is
felt as the piston enters the cylinder, stop immediately. Find out what's binding and fix it before
proceeding.

Caution: Do not, for any reason, force the piston into the cylinder - you might break a ring and/or
the piston.

12 Make sure the bearing faces are perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of clean moly-based
grease or engine assembly lube to both of them. You'll have to push the piston higher into the
cylinder to expose the face of the bearing shell in the connecting rod, be sure to slip the protective
hoses over the rod bolts first.

13 Slide the connecting rod back into place on the journal, remove the protective hoses from the rod
cap bolts, install the rod cap and tighten the nuts to the correct torque.

14 Repeat the entire procedure for the remaining pistons/connecting rods.

15 The important points to remember are:

a) Keep the back sides of the bearing shells and the insides of the connecting rods and caps perfectly
clean when assembling them.

b) Make sure you have the correct piston/ rod assembly for each cylinder.

c) The dimple or arrow on the piston must face the front of the engine.

d) Lubricate the cylinder walls with clean oil.

e) Lubricate the bearing faces.

16 After all the piston/connecting rod assemblies have been properly installed, rotate the crankshaft
a number of times by hand to check for any obvious binding.

21.5c Piston ring end gap positions for 1.4 litre 4ZZ-FE and 1.6 litre 3ZZ-FE VVT-i engines

21.9 Check to be sure both the mark on the piston and the mark on the connection rod are aligned

21.11 The piston can be (gently) driven into the cylinder bore with the end of a hammer handle

21.5c Piston ring end gap positions for 1.4 litre 4ZZ-FE and 1.6 litre 3ZZ-FE VVT-i engines

21.9 Check to be sure both the mark on the piston and the mark on the connection rod are aligned

21.11 The piston can be (gently) driven into the cylinder bore with the end of a hammer handle

22 Initial start-up after overhaul

■ A Warning: Have a fire extinguisher handy when starting the engine for the first time.

1 Once the engine has been installed in the vehicle, double-check the engine oil and coolant levels.
2 With the spark plugs out of the engine and the ignition system and fuel pump disabled (see Section
2 of Chapter 4A), crank the engine until oil pressure registers on the gauge or the light goes out.

3 Install the spark plugs, connect the HT leads/coils (where applicable) and restore the ignition
system and fuel pump functions.

4 Start the engine. It may take a few moments for the fuel system to build-up pressure, but the
engine should start without a great deal of effort.

5 After the engine starts, it should be allowed to warm-up to normal operating temperature. While
the engine is warming-up, make a thorough check for fuel, oil and coolant leaks.

6 Shut the engine off and recheck the engine oil and coolant levels.

7 Drive the vehicle to an area with minimum traffic, accelerate from 30 to 50 mph, then allow the
vehicle to slow to 30 mph with the throttle closed. Repeat the procedure 10 or 12 times. This will
load the piston rings and cause them to seat properly against the cylinder walls. Check again for oil
and coolant leaks.

8 Drive the vehicle gently for the first 800 kilometers (no sustained high speeds) and keep a constant
check on the oil level. It is not unusual for an engine to use oil during the run-in period.

9 At approximately 800 to 1000 kilometers, change the oil and filter.

10 For the next few hundred kilometers, drive the vehicle normally. Do not pamper it or abuse it.

11 After 3200 kilometers, change the oil and filter again and consider the engine run-in.

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