362-RCm2 FuellessEngineM2 Plans Part5 PDF

# 362-RCM2
# Sp500
The Fuelless Engine M2 or SP500 Anti-Pirate Customer ID # 97735032

Copyright 1996-2015 Creative Science & Research
Www.FuellessPower.com or www.FuellessUSA.com PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA
OPTION 2 BRUSH ASSEMBLY Creative Science & Research

Copyright 2015
www.FuellessPower.com
This brush assembly can also be used in the model # 2
prototype. Option # 2 may be a bit easier to make. We
used UHMW Polyethylene plastic and 2 carbon
brushes purchased from www.Grainger.com.
Creative Science & Research

Copyright 2015
# 362-RCM2
# Sp500

OPTION 2 BRUSH ASSEMBLY

This is really very simple to make. Much easier than it looks. Use your own judgment and common sense. Hole A is
only about 1/8” deep and is a 1/4” diameter hole. Holes B and holes C is 8-32 hole to fit an 8-32 machine long bolt.
Make holes C also with a counter sink hole about 0.375” deep, big enough for screw head to fit into and deep enough
for screw to reach Part # 1. Holes C uses 8-32 x 5/8 L machine screws. Holes B uses 8-32 x 2 3/4” L ( about).
Part # 2: Counter sink holes B on the opposite side, so the screw head will fit inside of the block, flush with the backside
face of the UHMW block.
Part # 1: Use ½” thick UHMW Part # 2 Brush Block - Front View

Center
1 3/32”
Center
½”
9/32” A 15/32”
B B
3/4”
1 7/16”
C C
½”
3/8” 3/8”
2 ½”
1 5/8”
4 7/16”

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Part # 2
Tap holes with 8-32 threaded tap.
C C
½”
3/8” 3/8”
1 5/8”
3/4”
# 362-RCM2
# Sp500

(Qty - 2 ) 8-32 x 5/8” L Machine Screws (Qty - 2 ) 8-32 x 2 3/4” L Machine Screws

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www.FuellessPower.com Step 1
Step 2 Step 3

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Step 4 Step 5
# 362-RCM2
# Sp500

Step 6 Copyright 2015

www.FuellessPower.com Step 7
Tip: This carbon brush assembly acts as an ON and OFF switch when it hits a commutator buss bar. Sending power
to the motors coils. If you do not want to use this device as a motor you can use it as a Sp500 Generator. If using
as a generator then there is no need for the carbon brush assembly or the commutator.
Step 8 Copyright 2015

Wind the nuts onto the long bolts and you are done and ready to install on your motor housing.
# 362-RCM2
# Sp500

Coil Mold Bobbin
One of eight motor or generator coils -

before second mold is applied.
2 part Epoxy
MAKING THE COILS

Copyright 2015
There are two choices in making the coils needed to make this motor / generator work.
The first option is the one we used in our first Fuelless Engine model # 2 prototype, as seen in the
youtube videos. If you want to duplicate our experiment that shows the motor running itself you may
want to do exactly what we did. We made ( Qty - 8 ) Coils. Each coil was wound with #17 AWG
magnet wire. We used the left to right method of winding. For example: wind the wire onto the
bobbin left to right, then right to left and repeat. Try your best to get the wire side by side. Each layer
of wire was coated with 2 part epoxy - Use an epoxy rated at about a 30 minute cure time or longer. You can find 2
part epoxy at your local hardware store or on the internet. We then let it dry or cure over night. We then placed
the coil in a mold and filled the mold with two part epoxy ( see photo’s ). The second option in
making these coils is much easier, but we have yet to try it and test it. It should work and get close to
the same result as the first one.
With the second option you can wind the coils dry ( I would put some 2 part epoxy on the first to
fourth layers only. The bobbin would be made up of many thin slots on each side of the bobbin so
lead wires can be inserted. Once the coil has been wound you can then use the lead wires hanging
from the sides of the bobbins and pull them up over and around the wound coil ( which is still in the
bobbin ). You would then twist the fine wire ( which can be copper wire or other ) at the top of the
coil. The coils could then be inserted into the stator housing holes and the coils can then be glued in
place using 2 part epoxy. Lay the stator housing disk flat on a table top with wax paper on back.
Place all 8 coils inside each hole. Apply 2 part epoxy in each hole, fill to the top of each hole, then
lay a flat piece of metal or 3/4” plywood on top and let dry overnight. This is much easier and a faster
way of making coils. There are many other techniques in making these coils, but time does not
permit me. Keep in mind the plans you see here are a brief description. We rushed to put these plans together, because
of a large demand requested by our customers. We hope to update these plans in the future.
# 362-RCM2
# Sp500

Coil Mold Bobbin Assembly
Photo 1 Photo 2

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Bobbin / mold - 3 3/16” Diameter x 2 5/8” outer length. Bobbin / mold - View of the right side
Inside length of PVC pipe = 1 5/8”
Photo 3 Photo 4
Starter wire hole
A view of the left side of starter hole for #17 wire insert. A exploded view - Center part is a 1 1/4” PVC pipe
Actual size of PVC pipe is: 1 8/16” ID x 1 11/16” OD
Use a 5/16” D x 8 ½” L long bolt. x 1 5/8” Length
Photo 5 Cut out part # 3 from

UHMW white plastic or Photo 6
Part # 1 Part # 4
long bolt
polyethylene ( kitchen
cutting board plastic
Part # 5
Part # 3 PVC ½”thick ) Use a sears.com
drill press circle cutter. You
need to adjust your cutter a
few times until you get the
exact size, so the part # 3
will fit just inside of the
PVC pipe. Then drill 2
Part # 2
holes, tap thread the holes
and attach part # 3 to part
# 1 and 2.
# 362-RCM2
Left
First Layer
Winding The Motor Coils STARTER
Copyright 1996-2015 Creative Science & Research WIRE
Www.FuellessPower.com
Method 3 Left to right method

Right
Second Layer
Fig 1 Left
First Layer
UHMW white
coil bobbin.
STARTER
HOLE
Copyright 2015
STARTER
WIRE
Allow about 5 inch of excess wire
on the outside. To wrap around # 17 AWG Magnet wire
long bolt, to keep out of the way
Right
while winding coil..
Second Layer
A long bolt with nuts will go through the center of this bobbin to keep it together and to be able to
connect it to a small drill press for winding. We used a small table top drill press, and converted it, by
replacing the AC motor with a 90VDC conveyer belt type motor with adjustable speed controller. Very
easy to make. You can get these motors from www.grainger.com. Once you have the bobbin attached to
your coil winder you can now begin to wind the coil. Step 1: Have a table close by, with your 2 part
epoxy on it. Go ahead and mix about a golf ball size of epoxy. Cut small pieces of cardboard or thin
plastic that you can apply the epoxy with. WARNING! Make sure to use a small fan to push the epoxy
vapors away from you, and an exhaust fan to pull the vapors outside. Step 2: with a small brush apply a
thin coat of white grease or oil to the inside on the bobbin, PVC etc. So the epoxy will not stick to it. You
want the epoxy only sticking to the magnet wire not the bobbin. Tip: If using a 11lb spool of #17 wire, set
the spool upright on it’s end and place it on the floor right under the coil winder table in front of you. The
wire will easily come off the spool while you are winding the coil. Step 3: Thread the end of your starter
magnet wire through the starter hole on the left side of your bobbin. The hole should be right above, but
flush with the outer diameter of the PVC pipe. Thread about 10 inches of starter wire through the bobbin
starter hole and wrap it around the long bolt, to keep it out of your way when winding. Tip: Use a on/off
AC foot switch to start and stop your drill press coil winder. Step 4: Set the speed on a slow rpm setting
until you get the hang of it.
# 362-RCM2
Left
First Layer
Method 3 CONTINUED....
Left to right method
Right
Second Layer
Starter Hole on left side of bobbin.

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PVC Pipe www.FuellessPower.com
Inside side view of bobbin.
Step 5: Now wind the bobbin with wire starting your first layer, from left to right. Try to get the wire side
by side. Step 6: Once you are done winding your first layer ( best to use to people for this job, but can
be done with one ). Now apply a thin layer of epoxy to the top of the wire. Step 7: Now wind from right to
left, side by side ( It gets a bit harder the more layers you do - remember you do not have to do it this
way, you can try the dry winding method and glue in later. ) Once you are done winding your 2nd layer,
do the same thing - apply a thin coat of 2 part epoxy. Repeat the process for every layer until you get
close to the top edge of the bobbin.
NOTICE: Do not wind all the way to the edge of the bobbin, leave about 3/16” or less. So you will have
enough space left over to apply more epoxy on the coil in the second molding - method process. See
photo’s in these plans. Hopefully the photo’s will help you some. We are making the magnets this way
so you they can be interchangeable for research purposes - using tap screws. You do not have to do it
this way if you don’t want to. You could skip the 2nd molding process and simply place all eight coils into
the large stator holes in the UHMW stator housing, then apply 2 part epoxy to glue them in place so they
will not move.
Step 8: Now cut the wire when you are done winding the coil. Leave about 7 to 10 inches of wire to be
able to wrap around the long bolt on the right side of the bobbin. Keep the wire tight, do not let it unwind.
Use tape or a second person to help keep tight until you wrap the excess wire around the long bolt.
Step 9: Now apply epoxy to the last layer wind, all around the coil. DO NOT REMOVE THE COIL YET!
Turn the coil winder back on. Allow the coil to turn around and around on low speed setting for about 2
hours so the epoxy will not drip while curing and drying. After 2 hours if the epoxy still feels a but sticky
allow it to turn another hour or so.
Step 10: Once the coil has cured overnight. You can now take it off of the coil winder ( drill press ).
Remove the nuts and the long bolt, and carefully take apart the bobbin. You now have the first stage of
assembly done. Next step is to place it into the coil mold made of UHMW Plastic or white Kitchen cutting
board. The photo’s you see on the next page are of one of our first coil molders. It was not a very good
design but it did work. We have come up with a better design, but have yet to try it. See photo’s and
drawings.
# 362-RCM2
Left
First Layer
Right
Second Layer
Photo A Photo B

Copyright 2015
Epoxy each layer, keep winds side by side. As

close as you can.
Photo C Photo D
Remove the finished coil from the bobbin.
Last Molding Step Do this if you want your coils to be interchangeable for research purposes.
Photo E Photo F
Cutting the 3 layers of ½”thick UHMW for the coil Place the coil in the UHMW mold. This is the 2nd
molder. Size is 3 3/16” Inner Diameter stage of molding.
# 362-RCM2
# Sp500

Last Molding Step

Do this if you want your coils to be interchangeable for research purposes.
Creative Science & Research Photo G Photo H
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Tape the 2 wire leads Apply your 2 part epoxy. We Place UHMW on bottom and a piece on top with
simply used aluminum tape from a hardware store. a weight. Let sit over night.
Photo J
Photo i

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It should look like this on the other side.

Remove UHMW outside mold plates. Should be flat and smooth.
Photo K
Photo L
Now the fun begins - Try removing the coil out of Using a vise and a rubber hammer helped remove the
the mold. coil faster. I repeat this again, this mold worked but is
not the way to go if you want to make them quickly!
Creative Science & Research PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151-0557 USA Copyright 2015

Copyright 2015

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# 362-RCM2
# Sp500

Last Molding Step

Remember; The inside wire of the inner diameter of Creative Science & Research
the air coil is the starter wire. The inner diameter of Copyright 2014
the air core is about 1 11/16” inch. The N52
Neodymium permanent magnet that we used was a 2”
D x ½” thick N52 magnet. This is what we used in the
video. Just in case you would like to try and do the
exact same experiment we did. We did not use steel
disks for our magnets to lay on. Motor ran cool to the
touch!
The outer diameter of the coil is about 2 7/8” OD

before the 2nd mold.
Tip: Use adobe reader to zoom in

for close ups of photo’s.
You now have two wires coming from the coil
Place brass terminal on wood, tape down with masking tape,

then solder.
Tap holes
and tap
screws
Wood
You can now cut off the excess wire and add aluminum
Get a good idea where you want to cut the wire off and mark it.
wire terminals or brass spring type material to the wire.
Sorry do not have measurement

Tip: Use adobe reader to zoom in
available for the length of wire.

Use your own judgment.
for close ups of photo’s.
We cut small slots by the holes, much like small ramps

We made our own and then soldered them to the wire. for the wire to go up and connect to brass wire terminals.
# 362-RCM2
# Sp500

Last Molding Step

OPTION 2: This is a much better mold design if you want to try it. Use UHMW white plastic polyethylene.
Size is 6” x 6” x 1. 3/4” thick or 1.75” thick. Use a drill press circle cutter or drill a hole in the middle and use the
middle as a pivot to turn by hand and mill out the hole using a mill drill bit and drill press. Next drill two 5/16” bolt
holes. Start with a 1/4” drill bit ( 6 to 7” length bit ). Drill from top to bottom or at least 3/4 through. Next mark a
center line. Now cut the mold in half along the center mark line. The Mold is now in two pieces. The top half and
the bottom half. The top half holes can now be drilled with a 5/16” drill bit. The bottom half holes can now be
threaded with a 5/16” tap. Another option would simply be to use two 5/16” long bolts with nuts and washer to
connect the top and bottom. If you do it that way you do not have to thread the holes.
5/16” bolt holes

Figure 1

Top Half Copyright 2015
6”
Bottom Half
1.75”
6”
6” Size is 3 3/16”
Inner Diameter
OR 6” Size is 3 3/16”
Inner Diameter

Copyright 2014
# 362-RCM2
Left
First Layer

Www.FuellessPower.com or www.FuellessUSA.com
Method 3 Left to right method

Right
Second Layer
Direction of winds
Finish = F
Start = S

Copyright 2015
= copper wire
When you start connecting your poles in series it is very important how you hook them up. Study
this drawing then go on to the next page. Your first coil will be S to F then the second coil will be
F to S. This will make your first coil ( if for example you applied a DC current to the coil )
to generate a north pole magnetic field facing you. The second coil would have to be South pole
facing you. This is how we did it as seen in the demo video. We had all the start ( S) wires facing
us. We then reversed the connections for every other coil. A second option would be to turn (
reverse ) every other coil to get your south poles. It should work the same way. And would be
easier to connect them in series using #17 AWG wire ( the same as was used in the coils ).
Quick Tip Guide: For those who have purchased our plans or kits.
HOW TO PREPARE AND CONNECT YOUR MTR / GENERATOR AIR COILS IN SERIES.
For research purposes only, you build and test at your own risk.
1. If you just purchased our plans and not the kit and want to make our dry type coils for test purposes, then wind all ( 8 )
Copyright 2015
coils as shown in the plans. Use the special dry type bobbin that we designed in the plans. Left to right method.
2. For those who purchased plans and kits: Once you have the coils in front of you. You will need to mark each coil as
seen in figure 1 below. You can use masking tape.
Finish Finish
wire wire Now mark the edges of the coils
N S using a perm black marker as
north and south, so you can clearly
identify the coils when you connect
Figure 1 them in series. Scrap and sand off
+ N - - S + the protective insulation coating on
the ends of the wires. Be careful
not to take off the copper metal of
the wire. Now apply 2 part clear
Starter Starter epoxy to the outside and inside of
wire wire the coils. Apply about 3 to 4 coats
on the outside of coils, and about 2
coats on the inside of coils.
Mark (4) of the coils like this. Mark last remaining (4) of the coils like
This will be your North pole coils. this. This will be your South pole coils.
Connect all negative wires to the positive wires as shown in Figure 2 below. The first coil + wire = starter wire, will be your power in and out wire lead. The last coil
negative wire will be your power in and out wire lead. The coils will have a DC and AC current flowing through them at the same time, when used as both a motor
and generator at the same time. This device can also be used just as a motor by itself or as a generator only.
Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish Finish

wire wire wire wire wire wire wire wire
N S N S N S N S
+ N - - S + + N - - S + + N - - S + + N - - S +
Starter Starter Starter Starter Starter Starter Starter Starter
wire wire wire wire wire wire wire wire

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# 362-RCM2

The Fuelless Engine M2 or SP500 Anti-Pirate Customer ID # 97735032

Www.FuellessPower.com or www.FuellessUSA.com PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA

OPTION 2 BRUSH ASSEMBLY Creative Science & Research

Creative Science & Research

The Fuelless Engine M2 or SP500 Anti-Pirate Customer ID # 97735032

Www.FuellessPower.com or www.FuellessUSA.com PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA

OPTION 2 BRUSH ASSEMBLY

Part # 1: Use ½” thick UHMW Part # 2 Brush Block - Front View

Creative Science & Research

Tap holes with 8-32 threaded tap.

The Fuelless Engine M2 or SP500 Anti-Pirate Customer ID # 97735032

Www.FuellessPower.com or www.FuellessUSA.com PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA

Creative Science & Research

Creative Science & Research

The Fuelless Engine M2 or SP500 Anti-Pirate Customer ID # 97735032

Www.FuellessPower.com or www.FuellessUSA.com PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA

Creative Science & Research

Step 6 Copyright 2015

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Step 8 Copyright 2015

The Fuelless Engine M2 or SP500 Anti-Pirate Customer ID # 97735032

Www.FuellessPower.com or www.FuellessUSA.com PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA

Coil Mold Bobbin

One of eight motor or generator coils -

MAKING THE COILS

The Fuelless Engine M2 or SP500 Anti-Pirate Customer ID # 97735032

Www.FuellessPower.com or www.FuellessUSA.com PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA

Coil Mold Bobbin Assembly

Creative Science & Research

Starter wire hole

Photo 5 Cut out part # 3 from

Method 3 Left to right method

Starter Hole on left side of bobbin.

Creative Science & Research

Epoxy each layer, keep winds side by side. As

Remove the finished coil from the bobbin.

The Fuelless Engine M2 or SP500 Anti-Pirate Customer ID # 97735032

Www.FuellessPower.com or www.FuellessUSA.com PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA

Last Molding Step

Creative Science & Research

It should look like this on the other side.

Creative Science & Research

Creative Science & Research

The Fuelless Engine M2 or SP500 Anti-Pirate Customer ID # 97735032

Www.FuellessPower.com or www.FuellessUSA.com PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA

Last Molding Step

The outer diameter of the coil is about 2 7/8” OD

Tip: Use adobe reader to zoom in

Place brass terminal on wood, tape down with masking tape,

Sorry do not have measurement

available for the length of wire.

We cut small slots by the holes, much like small ramps

The Fuelless Engine M2 or SP500 Anti-Pirate Customer ID # 97735032

Www.FuellessPower.com or www.FuellessUSA.com PO BOX 557 New Albany, IN. 47151 USA