See discussions, stats, and author profiles for this publication at: https://www.researchgate.

net/publication/333419974

Significance of the use of sewing work aids in garments production

Article · July 2017

CITATION READS

1 697

2 authors, including:

A.F.M. Fahad Halim

World University of Bangladesh
10 PUBLICATIONS   2 CITATIONS   

SEE PROFILE

Some of the authors of this publication are also working on these related projects:

Quality control View project

All content following this page was uploaded by A.F.M. Fahad Halim on 28 May 2019.

The user has requested enhancement of the downloaded file.

American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017
American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER)
e-ISSN: 2320-0847 p-ISSN : 2320-0936
Volume-6, Issue-7, pp-267-279
www.ajer.org
Research Paper Open Access

Significance of the use of sewing work aids in garments

production.
A.F.M. Fahad Halim 1, Mohammad Rashel Hawlader 2
1
(Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, World University of Bangladesh, Bangladesh)
2
(Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, Northern University of Bangladesh, Bangladesh)
Corresponding Author: A.F.M. Fahad Halim

ABSTRACT: In garment production, the most critical manufacturing process is sewing because it generally
involves a great number of operation. The production process includes a set of workstations, at each of which a
specific task is carried out in a sequence, with hundreds of employees. Sewing work aids means additional
working parts that are attached with the sewing machine to increase production to reduce faults and to increase
quality and also help to decrease manufacturing cost. In this study, the manufacturing sequence of jacket and
pants, types of machines used for each process, the number of workers used in a sewing line, SMV and daily
production of those related garments were enlisted. Data were collected while the garments were manufactured
by using work aid and also when those same garments were manufactured in the sewing line without using
sewing work aids. This project demonstrated that If work aids are used effectively operation cycle time can be
reduced than existing cycle time and effect on SMV, production and product quality and also help to decrease
manufacturing cost. At the end of the project it shows that sewing work aids can increase up to 11% efficiency
of sewing line for the selected product.
Keywords: work aid, SMV, work study, product quality, and efficiency.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------
Date of Submission: 14 -07-2017 Date of acceptance: 26-07-2017
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------

I. INTRODUCTION
The apparel sector is the highest industrial employment generator and the highest foreign exchange
earner to the country’s economy. The total export income of the sector for the year 2011 was US$ 4.2 Billion
which is equivalent to 39.6%. The export growth in 2011 is 24 percent (BOI, 2014). Readymade garments
(RMG) of Bangladesh is powered by young, urbanizing workers where most of them are women. [1]
The industry emerged at the time when Bangladesh began its struggle for achieving economic
emancipation and leading the country to prosperity with its limited resources. That time jute industry was the
major export product, which contributed to the herculean task of rebuilding the war-ravaged country. But the
‘Golden Fiber’ lost its golden days. The readymade garment (RMG) sector emerged after that, which within a
short span of time appeared to be crucial to our economy as a source of export earnings and employment
generation. Now the RMG sector is a 22-billion-dollar industry that accounts for 79 percent of the country’s
export earnings and contributes 10 percent to the national economy. Around 4.4 million people are employed in
the sector, and 80 percent of them are woman. [2]
In the early eighties, Bangladesh entered into the garments industry. The RMG sector has experienced
an exponential growth since 1980. In year1984-85 the number of garments factory were 384 with 0.12 million
workers which reached at a total number of garments factory 4306 with 4.20 million workers in year 2014-15
[3] Though, there are various types of garments are manufactured in Bangladesh, but all the readymade
garments are classified into two broad categories, where one is woven products and another one is knitted
products. Woven products include Shirts, Pants, Shorts etc. On the other hand, knitted product includes T-Shirts,
Polo Shirts, Undergarments, Socks, and Stockings etc. [4]
The apparel industry is one of the oldest and largest among the most global industries being primarily
concerned with the design and production of clothing and their supply.[5] Bangladesh is self-sufficient for knit
fabric as more than 90 percent of knitwear fabric is manufactured in Bangladesh. The capacity of our woven
fabric manufacturing and processing is also growing rapidly that has reached 2 billion meters per annum.
Besides, currently we have around 9 million spindles installed that can produce up to 1.7 billion kg of yarn per

www.ajer.org Page 267

American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017
year. We are also almost self-sufficient for trims and accessories. So, with the expansion of the RMG industry
the backward linkage industries developed and have been playing an important role in reducing lead time and
offering competitive price in the international market [2]
Today’s business climate for clothing manufacturers requires low inventory and quick response systems
that turn out a wide variety of products to meet customers demand. It is especially in the apparel industry that
managers are trying to develop their current systems or looking for new production techniques in order to keep
pace with the rapid changes in the fashion industry. The joining together of components, known as the sewing
process which is the most labor intensive part of garment manufacturing, makes the structure complex as some
works has a priority before being assembled. [6]
In the apparel industry, the assembly process involves a set of workstations in which a specific task is
processed in a pre- defined sequence. Before production, in order to achieve a balanced line, the sewing line
supervisors assign one or more sewing operatives to each task based on the standard time required to complete
the task. [7]
The work aids that are used during sewing operations can be categorized in a number of different ways
and they vary in the aspect of their overall purpose that they emphasize some otter greatly increased the speed of
working in a situation where quality is already satisfactory. Others give a very little improvement in productivity
but the great accuracy of sewing [8]

II. METHODOLOGY

Steps of the sewing process and the line orientation is observed. For making a shirt first making the front, back
and sleeve. After that all this are joined and ready for finishing. Same as for making a pant front part, back part
and west belt are made and then attach them for the required product. As well as it is observed that in which
machine is used the sewing work aid. Line setup, manpower and operation time also observed .
In this project work following sewing work aids has been chosen.

Folder
1/4Guide
1/16 Guide
Hanger Guide
Zipper Guide

www.ajer.org Page 268

American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017

Data Collection with and Without Sewing Work Aids. Here cycle time is collected for each step needed for
completing Pant and Jacket in the sewing line. And this process was doing two times for each product. First
when using sewing work aids and second without sewing work aids. For data collection, a stop watch was used.
We collect three times of cycle time and average them. Take one stop watch. Stand by side of the operator.
Capture cycle time for that operation. Cycle time means total time taken to do all works needed to complete one
operation.

III. INDENTATIONS AND EQUATIONS

After data collection with that data SMV was calculated by following steps-

Convert this cycle time into basic time by multiplying cycle time with operator performance rating.
Basic Time = Cycle Time X Performance Rating
The operator at what performance level he was doing the job seeing his movement and work speed is called
performance rating.
 SMV= (Basic minute + Bundle allowances + machine and personal allowances).
 Add bundle allowances (10%) and machine and personal allowances (20%) to basic time finally, the
ultimate SMV variation and other factors was calculated .

IV. FIGURES AND TABLES

SMV of a Jacket:
Table 4.1: Data Table for SMV of Jacket (Vicky-8) With Using Sewing Work Aids

www.ajer.org Page 269

American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017

Table 4.2: Data Table for SMV of Jacket (Vicky-8) Without Using Sewing Work Aids

www.ajer.org Page 270

American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017

Figure: Changes in SMV of jacket due to using sewing work aid

www.ajer.org Page 271

American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017
From this graph, it is apparent that SMV of garment produced with using work aid is lower than SMV of
garment produced without using sewing work aid. Decreasing of SMV is directly related to cycle time which
decrease due to reduce material handling by using sewing work aids. On the other hand, without using sewing
work aids SMV increase by affixing handling and to maintain actual quality.
SMV reduction after using sewing work aids is 16 %.

Figure: production variation of jacket due to using sewing work aid.

From this graph, it is concluded that production of the garment produced with using sewing work aid is higher
than garment production without using sewing work aid. The difference between daily (per shift) production
with and without using sewing work aid is 265 which is huge. Sewing work aid ensure better garment quality
and increase the productivity.

Figure: Changes in rejection& alteration of jacket due to using work aid.

During total production process per shift alteration and rejection cause vital factor. Alteration and rejection
gradually increase when total machines are running without sewing aid as well as quality parameters decreasing
downwards from buyer requirement. In the above figure we can identify that with using sewing work aids in
sewing line alteration and rejection quantity is 40 and 2 on average. On the other hand without using sewing
work aid it is increasing to 100 and 25.

www.ajer.org Page 272

American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017

CM (Cost of manufacturing) variation of jacket (Vicky-8) before and after using work aid

From the table, it is shown that during costing CM cost is identified on the basis of total SMV, machine output,
garments production, types of style. If the production output range of this garment produced with using work aid
is in between 800-900 then CM cost of that garment is defined $18.87 per dozen. On the other hand, without
using work aid it increases up to $19.87 as production output decreases in between 500-600.

SMV of a Pant:
Table: Data Table for SMV of Pant (Chino-5) With Using Sewing Work Aids

www.ajer.org Page 273

American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017

Table: Data Table for SMV of Pant (Chino-5) Without Using Sewing Work Aids

www.ajer.org Page 274

American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017

SMV Variation of pant (chino-5) against after and before using work aid:

From this graph, it is shown that SMV of garment produced with using work aid is lower than SMV of garment
produced without using sewing work aid. Decreasing of SMV is directly related to cycle time which decrease
due to reduce material handling by using sewing work aids. On the other hand, without using sewing work aids
SMV increase by affixing handling and to maintain actual quality.
SMV reduction after using sewing work aids 19.56%

www.ajer.org Page 275

American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017
Production variation of pant (chino-5) against after and before using work aid:

Production of the garment with using work aid is higher than garment production without using sewing work
aid. The difference between daily (per shift) production with and without using work aid is 291 which is huge.
So, work aid ensures better garment handling and increase the productivity.

Rejection and Alter percentage in total production process for pant:

From the figure, it is shown that alteration and rejection gradually increase when total machines are running
without sewing aid. Rejection and altering has an effect on production quality so it also decreased when sewing
work aid was not used. . In the above figure we can evaluate that with using sewing work aids in sewing line
alteration and rejection quantity per shift is 45 and 3 on average. On the other hand without using sewing work
aid it is increasing to 115 and 30.

CM (Cost of manufacturing) variation of pant (chino-5) before using sewing work aids:

www.ajer.org Page 276

American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017
This table represents that during costing CM cost is identified on the basis of total SMV, machine output,
garments production, types of style. If the production output range of this garment produced with using work aid
is in between 800-900 then CM cost of that garment is defined $23.87 per dozen. On the other hand, without
using work aid it increases up to $26.87 as production output decreases in between 500-600.This style is almost
basic as well.

Efficiency of sewing line with using sewing work aids and without using sewing work aids:

Comments
After using sewing work aids efficiency of the sewing line was 65.89% for jacket and 64.77% for pants.
Efficiency of the sewing line without sewing work aids was 54.13% for jacket and 54.10% for pants.

Pitch diagram of jacket without using work aids

Pitch diagram of jacket using work aid

www.ajer.org Page 277

American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017

Pitch diagram of pant without using work aids

Pitch diagram of pant using work aids

From the pitch diagram, it is clear that time required for making jacket without using work aids is more showing
more number of bottleneck condition than that of jacket which is made using work aids. Similar cases has been
observed for making pant with or without using work aids.

V. CONCLUSION
Key Findings
1. After using sewing work aids SMV was reduced 16% for jackets and 19.56 % for pants so that lead time is
decreased. As a result, Production was increased 265 pieces for jacket and 291 for pants after using work
aids. Rejection and altering process was reduced consequently with the help of sewing work aids.
2. During the evaluation of manufacturing cost as production percentage per shift is increasing significantly as
a result manufacturing cost was decrease $2 for jacket and $3 per dozen for pants after using sewing work
aids.
3. After using sewing work aids efficiency increased to 65.89% for jacket and 64.77% for pants whereas
without sewing work aids efficiency was 54.13% for jacket and 54.10% for pants.

In Apparel manufacturing process sewing is one of the most important operation. Industrial sewing is
done by industrial sewing machines. Work aids of sewing machine is an additional part used to increase
production, reduce faults and increase quality. Work aids are one of the most effective sewing tools. The
suggestive tools developed in this article cover a comprehensive series of aspects in minimizing cost and time in
the sewing section of apparel industries by ensuring quality production. In the sewing process, it is seen that a
sewing machine works with 20% time and rest of the time remain stopped. In this 80% time fabric handling
means folding, placing of fabric under the needle, bundle shifting and so on is done. To reduce this wastage of
time in production of garments work aid can plays a vital role. This paper also will aid industry in the
development of apparel production quality and production rate by minimizing non-productive activities. By this
project, it is shown that about 20% time can be saved by using sewing work aids. Beside this it’s also increased
productivity and make an order more profitable.

www.ajer.org Page 278

 American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 2017
REFERENCES
[1]. B. E. S. Bandara, Silva D. A. M. De and Fernando G., “Role of Standard Minute Value in Export Processing: Will it Make
Difference to the Firm Economic Performance,” International Research Symposium on Engineering Advancements 2015 (RSEA
2015) SAITM, Malabe, Sri Lanka.
[2]. BGMEA. About Garments Industry of Bangladesh. Available from: http://www.bgmea.com.bd/blog/story. Access Date:
[29/01/2017]
[3]. BGMEA. BGMEA Trade Information. Available from: http://www.bgmea.com.bd/home/pages/trade information#.Vl9PdvkrLIU.
Access Date: [29/01/2017]
[4]. Islam. M., Readymade Garments Industry of Bangladesh. Available from: http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/readymade-
garments-industry-ofbangladesh. Access Date: [29/01/2017]
[5]. 5. Callychurn. D S, Soobhug. K, Hurreeram. D K, “Key Success Factors for the Apparel Manufacturing Industry: A Case Study at
Company X”, in the book of “Proceedings of the World Congress on Engineering”, London, U.K., WoodHead PublishingLtd,
2000.
[6]. Rahman.H, Roy.P.K, Karim.R, Biswas.P,K Effective Way to Estimate the Standard Minute Value (SMV) Of A T-Shirt by Work
Study. European Scientific Journal. 2014; 10(30): 196–203.
[7]. W. K. Wong, Z. X. Guo and S. Y. S. Leung, “Topic”, in the book of “Optimizing decision making in the apparel supply chain using
artificial intelligence (AI)”, England, Woodhead Publishing Ltd, 2000.
[8]. Raihan.S Effect of Sewing Work Aid in Garments Production. International Journal of Textile Science. 2016; 5(3): 49-59.
[9]. Saiful.A,. Abu.M.M and Abu.N.K, “Garment Manufacturing Technology,”
[10]. Manufacturing Facility for Apparel, Textiles Government of Gujarat, [08/02/2017] Available from:
http://textilefashionstudy.com/types-of-fabric-used-in-apparel-manufacturing
[11]. “Technological advances in sewing garments”, in the book of “Advances in apparel production”, Edited by Cambridge C.F,
England, Woodhead Publishing Ltd, 2008.
[12]. Golder S.A.N. Apparel Analysis for Layout Planning in Sewing Section. International Journal of Current Engineering and
Technology. 2015; 5(3): 1736-1742.
[13]. Islam MM, Khan AM, Prof. Uddin AZ. Elimination of Non-Productive Activities is a Must in Cost and Time Savings in the Sewing
Section of Apparel Industry. International Journal of Engineering and Applied Sciences. 2013; 1(4): 113-119.
[14]. Colovic G, “Analyze of the planning, layout and logistics in garment manufacturing”, in the book of “Management of Technology
Systems in Garment Industry”, New Delhi, India, WoodHead Publishing Ltd, 2011.
[15]. Islam M.M, Khan.A.M, Islam.M.M Application of Lean Manufacturing to Higher Productivity in the Apparel Industry in
Bangladesh. International Journal of Scientific & Engineering Research. 2013; 4(2)
[16]. Hiba, Juan Carlos, “Improving Working Conditions and Productivity in the Garment Industry,” Practical ideas for owners and
managers of small and medium-sized enterprises, Geneva, International Labor Office, 1998
[17]. Garment Machinery and Equipment, [Internet]. [05/02/2017] Available from:
https://www.google.co.in/search?q=Garment+Machinery+and+Equipment&site=web
hp&ei=vcScWICjJ4vpvATixZWABw&start=10&sa=N&biw=1600&bin=770
[18]. Singh.K Implementing Industrial Engineering as A Tool in The Industry. National Institute of Fashion Technology, (Mumbai);
2015 [2017/02/01]. http://14.139.111.26/jspui/bitstream/1/435/1/Implementing%20Industrial%20Enginee
ring%20as%20A%20Tool%20in%20the%20Industry.PDF
[19]. Khatun.M.M Application of Industrial Engineering Technique for Better Productivity in Garments Production. International Journal
of Science, Environment and Technology. 2013; 2(6): 1361-1369.
[20]. Miller.M Productivity and workers’ rights. Somerset: ActionAid; 2012.
[21]. Khatun.M.M Effect of time and motion study on productivity in garment sector. International Journal of Science, Environment and
Technology. 2014; 5(5): 825-833.
[22]. Carr, Latham`s, “Sewing”, in the book of “Technology of Clothing Manufacture”, Edited by David J. Tyler, Oxford OX4 2DQ, UK,
Blackwell Publishing Ltd, 2012-2013.
[23]. “Textile Terms and Definitions”,Edited by M j Denton DSc CText FTI, P N Daniels BA MIInfSc, Manchester M1 6FQ, UK, The
Textile Institute, 2010-2011.
[24]. International Labor Organization, „Introduction to Work Study‟, Universal Publishing Corporation, India. 1986; PP. 69-97.
[25]. Chandra.P.V An Effort to Apply Work and Time Study Techniques in a Manufacturing Unit for Enhancing Productivity.
International Journal of Innovative Research in Science, Engineering and Technology. 2013 August; 2(8):4050-4058.
[26]. Ferdous.E.N Underpin the Productivity of Apparel Industries in Dhaka District by Effective Utilization of Line Balancing. The
International Journal of Science &Techno ledge. 2015 July;3(7):1321.
[27]. Willem.D te Velde (ed.). Enhance Productivity in Bangladesh‟s Garment Sector. Growth Research Programme. 2014 Feb 20, 28p.
[28]. Kulkarni.P.P, Kshire.P.P Chandratre.P.P Productivity Improvement through Lean Deployment & Work Study Methods.
International Journal of Research in Engineering and Technology. 2014 Feb;3(2):429-434.
[29]. Chandurkar.P, Kakde.M, Bhadane.A, Improve the Productivity with help of Industrial Engineering Techniques. International
Journal on Textile Engineering and Processes. 2015 October; 1(4):35-41.
[30]. Singh. J.B, Method Study (Work Study), E1-E2 Telecom Factory, Date: 19/01/2013.
[31]. Apreutesei.M, Suciu.M, Ionela ,Arvinte.I.R Lean Manufacturing-bA Powerful Tool for Reducing Waste During the Processes.
ANALELE UNIVERSITATII. 2010; 2:23-34.
[32]. Callychurn.D.S Soobhug. K, Hurreeram.D.K Key Success Factors for the Apparel Manufacturing Industry. Proceedings of the
World Congress on Engineering. 2014 July (2-4); 2:5-12.

A.F.M. Fahad Halim . "Significance of the use of sewing work aids in garments production."
American Journal of Engineering Research (AJER) 6.7 (2017): 267-279.

www.ajer.org Page 279

View publication stats