Domestic Timber Deck Design: Technical Design Guide Issued by Forest and Wood Products Australia
Domestic Timber Deck Design: Technical Design Guide Issued by Forest and Wood Products Australia
Domestic Timber Deck Design: Technical Design Guide Issued by Forest and Wood Products Australia
Domestic Timber
Deck Design
Technical Design Guide issued by Forest and Wood Products Australia
04
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Timber-framed Construction non-proprietary information about timber and wood products to professionals
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Design and construction guide for BCA compliant
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Technical Design Guide issued by Forest and Wood Products Australia d Prod
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03. Timber-framed Construction for To retain consistency of information within the timber industry the section
Commercial Buildings Class 5, 6, 9a & 9b on timber decks, close to or on-ground, relies heavily on the Timber
Queensland’s Guide No 13 Residential Timber Deck Close to the Ground.
04. Building with Timber in Bushfire-prone Areas
We acknowledge Timber Queensland’s contribution to the guide.
05. Timber service life design - Design Guide for Durability
First published: June 2014
06. Timber-framed Construction -
Sacrificial Timber Construction Joint
07. Plywood Box Beam Construction for Detached Housing
© 2013 Forest and Wood Products Australia Limited.
08. Stairs, Balustrades and Handrails All rights reserved.
Class 1 Buildings - Construction
These materials are published under the brand WoodSolutions by FWPA.
09. Timber Flooring - Design Guide for Installation
IMPORTANT NOTICE
10. Timber Windows and Doors
While all care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information
11. Noise Transport Corridor Design Guide
contained in this publication, Forest and Wood Products Australia Limited
12. Impact and Assessment of (FWPA) and WoodSolutions Australia and all persons associated with them as
Moisture-affected Timber-framed Construction well as any other contributors make no representations or give any warranty
13. Finishing Timber Externally regarding the use, suitability, validity, accuracy, completeness, currency or
reliability of the information, including any opinion or advice, contained in
14. Timber in Internal Design this publication. To the maximum extent permitted by law, FWPA disclaims all
15. Building with Timber for Thermal Performance warranties of any kind, whether express or implied, including but not limited
to any warranty that the information is up-to-date, complete, true, legally
16. Massive Timber Construction Systems
compliant, accurate, non-misleading or suitable.
Cross-laminated Timber (CLT)
To the maximum extent permitted by law, FWPA excludes all liability in
17. Alternative Solution Fire Compliance, Timber Structures
contract, tort (including negligence), or otherwise for any injury, loss or
18. Alternative Solution Fire Compliance, Facades damage whatsoever (whether direct, indirect, special or consequential)
19. Alternative Solution Fire Compliance, Internal Linings arising out of or in connection with use or reliance on this publication (and
any information, opinions or advice therein) and whether caused by any
20. Fire Precautions during Construction of Large Buildings errors, defects, omissions or misrepresentations in this publication. Individual
21. Domestic Timber Deck Design requirements may vary from those discussed in this publication and you are
advised to check with State authorities to ensure building compliance as well
Other WoodSolutions Publications as make your own professional assessment of the relevant applicable laws
WoodSolutions publications provide information on topics and Standards.
of interest to architects, engineers and other building
The work is copyright and protected under the terms of the Copyright Act
professionals.
1968 (Cwth). All material may be reproduced in whole or in part, provided
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woodsolutions.com.au Wood Products Australia Limited) is acknowledged and the above disclaimer
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is prohibited without the prior written consent of FWPA.
Cover image: Castlecrag Residence, Architects: CplusC Architectural Workshop
Photographer: Murray Fredericks WoodSolutions Australia is a registered business division of Forest and
Wood Products Australia Limited.
Contents
Introduction 4
Scope................................................................................................................................................... 4
How to Use This Guide........................................................................................................................ 4
1 General Information 5
2 Specific Requirements 16
3 References 21
Scope
This guide outlines key design and construction considerations for light domestic timber decks for
both raised and close to or on-ground timber decks that are exposed to the weather.
It covers decks that are associated with Class 1 structures (such as detached houses, villas and
townhouses) and Class 10 structures (such as garages, sheds and swimming pools) according
to the National Construction Code (NCC) Volume 2. For the design and construction of decks for
commercial, industrial or marine applications, or where a deck has to take heavier loads such as tiles,
spas or even vehicles, a structural engineer must be consulted.
Terms used in domestic deck design and construction are illustrated in Figure 1.
Hand rails
Balusters Decking
boards
Facing
Bearer joist
Bracing
Treads Post
stirrups
Posts
Stringer
Footing
Steel brackets
Concrete pad (hot-dip galvanised)
Section 1 of this guide provides general information applicable to all types of light domestic decks.
Information relevant to specific types of decks is contained in Section 2.
In all parts of Australia prone to bushfires, there are limitations on the use of timber in deck
construction. This limitation varies depending on the risk of bushfire attack and the elements of the
deck under consideration.
Appendix A of this guide contains a list of common timber species used for timber decks and the
maximum Bushfire Attack Level (BAL) that the species can be used for in a deck, in accordance with
AS 3959 Construction of buildings in bushfire-prone areas.
Refer to WoodSolutions Technical Design Guide #4: Building with Timber in Bushfire-prone Areas
for further information. It also should be noted that South Australia and NSW have some differing
requirements that need to be followed in those states.
Decking
Timber post
Where engaged brick piers to the external wall are used to support bearers in addition to the termite
cap, AS 3660.1 requires the bearer and joist of the deck to provide a gap of 25 mm between the wood
surface and the building envelop (Figure 4). Again this is to ensure adequate termite inspection can
take place.
Figure 4: Illustration of a 25 mm gap between timber deck frame work and brick external wall.
A good design technique is one that makes the inspection for termites easier, irrespective of what
termite prevention method is employed to comply with the NCC. One method is having the decking
boards that are parallel to the house envelop screwed instead of nailed, which allows easy and regular
inspection without causing damage to the decking boards (Figure 5).
Soil
Minimum
400
400 mm gap
below deck
Figure 5: Strategy to improve inspections at the interface of a timber deck and the house envelope.
Protection system
Joist
The joints between posts, bearers and joists need to be able to transfer load efficiently through the
structure – refer to AS 1684 for design of these elements. Where possible, bearers and joists should
be long lengths and continuous, spanning over at least three supports.
Where joints in bearers are required they must occur over supports and provide adequate bearing for
each bearer. Joints in joists must be made over a bearer and have a minimum of 30 mm of bearing for
each joist. Figure 7 illustrates methods to join joists, where they are required to be in line. Scarf or butt
joints can be used with a minimum of 30 mm of bearing for each joist.
Scarf joint
Butt joint
Lap
All connections should be of sufficient durability. All framing bolts, screws, nails, and other hardware
should be hot dipped galvanised or stainless steel. Electroplated fasteners are not suitable due to
early breakdown of the plating. Fixings within the splash zones (minimum 1.0 m from pool edge) of
swimming pools or in coastal zones must be stainless steel. Fixings for preservative-treated decking
boards should be hot dipped galvanised, stainless steel or with a coating approved for use with
treated timber decking.
Refer to WoodSolutions Design Guide #5: Timber Service Life Design – Design Guide for Durability
for further information on estimated service life of connectors.
Due to moisture potentially being trapped at the interface of crossing timber members, e.g. bearer and
post connections, a timber sealer should be used between the interfacing elements.
Timber washers need to be appropriately sized (Table 1).
Table 1: Timber washer selection guide coach screws or bolts Note: Source: AS1720.1
There are three main types of decking board profiles available: plain, pencil round and ribbed/reeded
(Figure 8).
Plain profile decking is not common as the square edges of the boards are more prone to splintering.
Pencil Round has significantly less chance of splintering compared to plain boards and is the most
common decking board available. Ribbed (or reeded) board profile can be used faced up or down.
Where ribbed boards are used face up, care should be taken in moist areas that the boards are kept
free of mould and moss build up that can make them slippery.
Decking boards are available in various widths. For 19 mm thick Australian species boards, the widths
that are usually available are 64 mm and 86 mm. Imported hardwood decking species are generally
available in 70 mm or 90 mm widths. Other widths are available but consultation with suppliers
regarding availability is required before specifying.
In all cases it is recommended that boards with a narrow width are selected because it is easier
for water to drain through the deck. Where wider boards are selected they will need to be thicker to
reduce the possibility of cupping developing.
Tongue and grooved timber, plywood or particleboard sheet flooring products are not recommended
for use as decking in weather-exposed situations.
Various timber decking boards have different span capacity. Table 2 gives maximum span of the
common decking board timber types and thicknesses.
Table 2: Maximum joist spacing for various decking boards. Source: AS 1684
Deck boards can be laid in various directions to add style to the project; refer to Figure 10 for various
decking patterns. Care is required to ensure that decking boards that are not perpendicular to the
joists do not span further than the maximum joist spacing allowed (see Table 2). For example, 19 mm
Standard grade hardwood decking boards at 45 degrees to the joists will require the joist spaced at
350 mm to maintain the maximum allowable span of 500 mm.
Deck
Joist
Deck
Joist
Each board must be fixed at each joist with at least two nails, which should be finished flush with the
top of the boards (rather than punched) to prevent moisture being trapped. Where the fixing occurs,
other than at the ends of the board, nails should be staggered across the joist to avoid the possibility
of cracks caused by moisture movement in the decking (Figure 12).
Nails to be
12mm min. from ends
Board ends
under-cut
for tight fit
Table 3: Minimum hand-driven nail size for various timber species decking and joist combinations.
Machine-driven nail properties usually vary between nailing gun manufacturers and are considered
proprietary to the manufacture. Machine-driven nails can be used as long as the nail has the same
capacity as the hand-driven nails detailed in Table 3. T-nails should not be used. Care is required when
using machines to ensure the nail head is not driven below the surface of the board.
As is the case for machine-driven nails, screw requirements are not referenced in AS 1684. The
principles described above for machine nails should be followed for screws. Types of screws are
usually proprietary information and reference to the manufacturer’s specification is required.
Screws normally used for fixing timber decks are not suitable for fixing timber decking to steel joists.
This is due to the seasonal and differential expansion and contraction of timber decking against the
steel substructure that may cause the screws to fail in shear. It is recommended that a timber batten is
affixed above or beside the steel joist so the decking board is nailed or screwed to this timber batten.
The size of any timber batten must allow adequate fixing for the decking to batten as well as the batten
to the steel joist.
There are a number of proprietary systems available that fix the decking at the side of the board.
Refer to Figure 14 for an illustration of one system. Most systems require a groove into the side of
the decking for fixings while some use spikes. In all cases the fixing systems are proprietary and
manufacturers’ recommendations must be followed.
Decking
Hidden fixings
Joist
Care is required in the fixing of a deck sub-structure to existing structures as this is a common source of
deck failure. It is recommended that the deck be self-supported on its own posts or piers off the exterior
fabric of the building. Where this is not possible, advice from a structural engineer is required to ensure
adequate fixing.
Care is also required in the way decks interface with the building exterior fabric, as water ingress into
the house may develop at this crossing point. Flashing is one way to provide a barrier to prevent
moisture entering the house.
It is important that a suitable finish be applied and maintained to protect the surface of the timber from
weathering and to maintain an attractive appearance. This protective finish of the timber surface will
reduce the effects of weathering of any timber (treated or untreated) in an exposed situation. From a
durability perspective, the main function of the finish is to slow down the rate at which the timber will
take up or lose moisture. By slowing that rate down, the severity of any checking on the surface of the
timber is considerably reduced. The finish should contain a fungicide to prevent mould growing on any
sugars or starches that may be in the finish.
There are two main types of timber finishes:
• Film-forming finishes, such as paints, clear surface coatings and heavy-bodied stains appear as a
layer on the surface of the timber, visually creating a smooth surface and do not penetrate significantly
into the surface of the timber.
• Penetrating finishes such as water repellents, decking oils and decking stains penetrate into the
surface of the timber and do not form a significant surface film. Due to the wear expected with foot
traffic, penetration finishes are better for decking boards than film-forming finishes.
Translucent coatings and stains are typically a combination of film-forming and penetrating coatings
with added preservatives, fungicides, and colourants. The degree of film formation and penetration
varies with product and manufacturer.
As a minimum, a protective finish should be applied to all surfaces (including any freshly cut ends) of
each decking board, preferably before fixing to the joists. A protective finish includes products that
penetrate the surface of the timber and products that provide a film or coating to the surface of the
timber.
Further information on timber finishes can be found in WoodSolutions Design Guide #13: Finishing
Timber Externally.
Where there is a risk of the deck becoming slippery when wet, especially if it is not kept clean and
brushed regularly, the slip resistance of the decking boards can be increased by the choice of finishes
or the addition of slip-resistant strips.
Slip-resistant finishes can be achieved by adding slip-resistant additive to the deck finishing product.
Some coating manufactures have products with anti-slip particles already included, while others
have particle that can be added to common standard coating products. Refer to the coating product
manufacture for more information.
The recommended durability of the timber for deck sub-structure and decking boards is in Section B
of this guide. In all cases, either a recommended natural durability class or preservative-treated timber
hazard level is given.
The WoodSolutions
1.8.1 Natural Durability Classes
website contains
a list of timber
There are two natural durability classes used in this guide: ‘above-ground’ (AG) and ‘in-ground’ (IG)
species and,
and they refer to the heartwood of the timber only. The sapwood of all timber species is considered
where available,
non-durable when exposed to the weather. A number of Australian Standards list the above-ground
the above-ground
and in-ground natural durability class for various timbers and these Standards are:
and in-ground
natural durability • AS 1684 Parts 2 and 3 Residential timber-framed construction
ratings for each • AS 5604 Timber - Natural durability ratings
species according Other sources of information on timber durability can be found in:
to Australian
Standards are • Keith Bootle’s Wood in Australia
given. • WoodSolutions Technical Design Guide #5: Timber Service Life Design - Design Guide for Durability
The natural durability class of many imported timbers can also be found in the Australian Standards
referenced above.
Where there is no durability class given for a timber species, an indicator of performance can be found
for a number of timber species from the paper; Natural Durability of Wood: A Worldwide Checklist of
Species, Scheffer and Morrell, 1998. Note, the durability classes quoted in this publication, do not
correspond with Australia’s timber durability system.
Specifiers in Queensland must also refer to the Construction Timber in Queensland guide available
from the Queensland Department of Agriculture Fishery and Forestry.
Australian Standard AS 1604 Timber – Preservative-treated – Sawn and round defines the retention
rates for various timber preservatives for different exposures and hazard levels.
Handrail or decking boards treated with the preservative Copper Chrome Arsenate (CCA) are not
allowed to be used in areas where children could come into frequent or intimate contact with it. CCA-
treated timber can be used in other locations of the deck, such as sub-floor framing, roof rafters, and
so on. Timber treated with other preservatives such as ACQ (alkaline copper quaternary), copper
azole or LOSP (light organic solvent preservatives) can be used as handrails and decking boards.
Timber treated with LOSPs is not suitable for in-ground use (H4 or H5 hazard level) and timber treated
for additional resistance to termites (H2f, H2s and H2 hazard level) is not suitable for use in weather-
exposed applications.
If the deck is more than one metre off the ground, handrails or balustrades are required. The choice
of appropriate handrails and balustrades will depend on the design and application and even location
in relation to other structures. For example, balustrades for decks next to a swimming pool vary from
balustrades required in the NCC for fall protection. Further information can be found in WoodSolutions
Technical Design Guide #8: Stairs, Balustrades and Handrails Class 1 Buildings - Construction.
Timber is a natural product and, as deck timbers weather, small cracks (or checks) are likely to
appear on the surface of the boards. These cracks are caused by the intermittent wetting and drying
of the wood. They are part of the character of wood and have no structural effect. This natural
ageing process can be slowed by the use of finishes, as discussed above, which reduce moisture
movements in timber.
All decks will benefit from regular maintenance, otherwise the decking boards will discolour and the
surface will become rough and prone to splinters. A poorly maintained deck is also susceptible to
mould which can make the surface slippery or reduce the service life of the decking boards.
The deck should be cleaned regularly. When cleaning the deck, avoid hosing it down; use a broom or
a blower instead.
Pot plants or other items that are not moved regularly should be elevated off the deck. Pot plants
should be placed in drip trays. To minimise uneven weathering of the deck, all items should be moved
regularly.
At least once a year, or as indicated by the coating manufacturer, the deck should be thoroughly
cleaned, and resealed or stained. The process involves the removal of dirt, algae, moss and other
organic matter.
Clean the deck by hosing it down with an appropriate deck-cleaning solution. The deck should then
be scrubbed and rinsed. During this process, check for loose boards and nails or screws that stick
up and make any necessary repairs. Also examine all areas where deck boards come into contact
with any joists or any point that comes into contact with the ground. These areas are particularly
susceptible to moisture damage.
Allow the deck to dry and reseal it with the sealer or stain originally applied. Where a different finish is
used to the original finish, check with the manufacturer about using different types of sealers or stains,
as mixing them may prevent adhesion of the new coating.
Most hardwood timber species contain water-soluble extractives that provide colour and some
natural decay resistance to the timber. Water-soluble extractives may be leached to the surface of
the timber whenever moisture leaves the timber. Because the discolouration is water-soluble, it can
be washed to other surfaces and may leave an unsightly stain that can be difficult to remove from
brickwork, concrete or any paving underneath the deck that is not sealed. To lessen the likelihood of
such extractives bleeding and staining, use seasoned timber and apply a water-repellent finish to all
surfaces including any freshly cut ends.
Any iron filings that are not cleaned from the surface are likely to react with moisture and the timber
extractives to create unsightly black staining on the timber. Avoid using any power tools on, near or
above an uncovered deck that may deposit fine iron filings or dust on the timber surface. Particular
care should be taken with cutting metal, masonry, brick or ceramics with an angle grinder. Cutting
bricks or tiles with an angle grinder creates iron filings from the metal mesh that forms the base of the
cutting disk. Storing or leaving metal on the deck for long periods of time may also cause tannin stain.
Some softwood timber species boards such as radiata and slash pine can be prone to resin bleed.
Ideally, if a board shows obvious signs of resin bleed it is preferable not to use that board or to cut out
the affected area. If it has to be fixed in the deck, it should be fixed in a position where the resin bleed
won’t be a problem. Sometimes it may not be obvious that a board is prone to resin bleed until after
the finished deck has been exposed to a period of hot weather. In such circumstances, the resin can
be cleaned up or the offending board replaced.
A raised timber deck is any timber deck where the decking boards are more than 400 mm above
the finished ground (Figure 15). It is assumed there is appropriate drainage available for water and
adequate cross-flow ventilation underneath the deck. Adequate cross-flow ventilation for decks
is regarded as the same as the minimum requirement for raised timber floors in houses. For the
minimum cross-ventilation requirements, refer to NCC, Volume 2, Part 3.4.1.
>400mm
Spacer block
Notched posts
The sub-deck supports transfer horizontal and vertical loads into the ground, sometimes including
uplift forces, particularly where decks are covered with a roof.
Footings
Footings for supporting posts are usually designed in two ways. The most common method is
concrete footings with galvanised stirrups embedded or fixed in the footings to support the posts
(Figure 16).
Timber post
Galvanised
stirrup
Timber post
Top of footing
sloped away
75 mm ‘No-Fines’
Min. concrete footing
Concrete
footing
150 mm
Min.
The design of footings is outlined in AS 2870 or AS 1684. Usually, the soil classification and expected
loads on the deck are required to be known. Decks designed to AS 2870 and AS 1684 are for decks
used for housing with average loads and ground conditions. If these conditions are not met (e.g.
the deck needs to support a spa or the deck is to be tiled), the design needs to be considered by a
structural engineer.
Timber selection
Unless the deck is completely protected by a roof, the timber framing and boards will be exposed to
the weather, so it is essential that the selected timber can provide good service life in those conditions.
Timbers used above the ground (framing, boards and posts on stirrups) should be hardwoods rated
above-ground natural durability class 1 or 2 (plus sapwood removed or H3 treated) or, if softwood is
used, preservative-treated to at least H3 hazard level. Softwood timber that is treated to H2, H2F or
H2S hazard level is not suitable for use in the construction of decks. Timber embedded in the ground
(embedded posts) should be in-ground natural durability class 1 or be preservative treated to H5
hazard level. Refer to Appendix A for a list of common timbers and their above-ground and in-ground
natural durability ratings. Durability ratings only refer to the heartwood of the timber. Sapwood is not
durable when exposed to the weather.
A wide variety of engineered wood products is now available on the market, such as glue-laminated
timber, finger-jointed timber and LVL products. If these products are being considered, direct
reference to specific manufacturer recommendations is required. In most cases there are additional
requirements or limits when these products are used in applications such as decks where they
are exposed to the weather. Timber I-beams (treated or untreated) are not suitable for use in the
construction of decks.
Posts
As described previously, posts are usually connected to concrete footings via a stirrup. They are
generally preservative-treated softwood (H3 hazard level) or natural above-ground durability Class 1 or
2 timber species.
The span tables within AS 1684 have the required timber sizes for posts. These are dependent on the
deck area, roof area (if any), post height and stress grade of the timber selected. Common cross-
sectional sizes for posts vary, but usually start at 88 mm and upwards. Minimum sizes for posts are
also governed by the distance between the ground and the underside of the bearers. The maximum
height of a deck above the ground for a given post dimension is 15 times the face width of the post.
1800mm max.
Max. Stump
Height to
Width Ratio
= 15:1
30
to
60
150mm min.
When decking is less than 400 mm off the ground, additional consideration to ensure adequate
performance and service life of the timber is required (Figure 20). This includes increased ventilation,
sub-surface drainage, increased timber durability/preservative treatment and access for termite
inspection and maintenance.
Where any of the conditions described in the guide cannot be met, performance may be affected and
the service life of the deck will be reduced.
Allow ventilation
and inspection
Ground <400mm Additional
Line
timber
treatment
It is important that the ground beneath the deck is completely cleared of all building rubbish, garden
debris and obstructions to water or air movement. Water must not be able to pool under the deck
and the ground must be sloped away from the foundations of the house or other nearby buildings.
Agricultural drainage pipes may be required in some instances so water can properly flow away from
beneath the deck.
Plastic sheeting acting as a waterproof membrane should be placed on the cleared ground. If timber
bearers are to be placed directly on the ground, the plastic sheet should be covered with compacted
gravel or sand to provide a solid base.
2.2.2 Footings
membrane Joist
Concrete foundations and bearers should be placed so they don’t restrict the flow or drainage of
water. The perimeter of the deck should be kept open to allow for ventilation. Preferably, a decking
system should be designed so it is panelised. The panels need to be sized so that they can be easily
lifted to allow for easy maintenance and inspection.
Only termite-resistant timber should be used (see section above) and there should be a gap between
the house and deck of at least 40 mm to allow for pest inspection and air flow (Figure 22).
Timber selection
Timbers used close to or on the ground require additional durability as well as termite resistance.
Framing timbers more than 150 mm above the ground should be termite resistant and above-ground
durability Class 1 or 2 (plus sapwood removed or H3 treated) or softwood preservative treated to
at least H3 hazard level. Framing timbers on the ground or lower than 150 mm should be termite
resistant and in-ground durability Class 1 (plus sapwood removed or H4 treated) or preservative
treated to H4 or better. Durability ratings refer to the heartwood only of the timber.
Decking boards should be termite resistant above-ground natural durability Class 1 or 2 (plus
sapwood removed or H3 treated) or preservative treated to H3 or better. To reduce likelihood of
excessive movement and allow for more ventilation, the minimum width board should be selected.
Decking board spacing
The decking should be the minimum width available and have a minimum spacing between boards
(long term) of 5 to 6 mm to allow water to flow between the boards and ensure adequate ventilation.
Australian Building Codes Board, National Construction Code Series, Volume Two
Australian Standards
AS 1604.1 Specification for preservative treatments, Part 1: Sawn and round timber
AS 1684.2 Residential timber-framed construction, Part 2: Non-cyclonic Areas
AS 1684.3 Residential timber-framed construction, Part 3: Cyclonic Areas
AS 2870 Residential slabs and footings
AS 1810 Timber - Seasoned cypress pine - Milled products
AS 2796.1 Timber - Hardwood - Sawn and milled products - Product specification
AS 2870 Residential slabs and footings standard
AS 4785.1 Timber - Softwood - Sawn and milled products - Product specification
AS 5604 Timber - Natural durability ratings
Cypress 90 x 20 2 1 Yes No
B
Appendix B -
Common Deck Problems
Common problems to avoid when designing or building a deck:
1. Deck framing not designed to stand alone or is inadequately connected to the house.
2. Fasteners incorrectly sized or not of sufficient durability.
3. Timber species not sufficiently durable or the right preservative treated hazard class for the
intended exposure to weather.
4. Subfloor frame not adequately braced.
5. AS 1684 timber spans and sizes used when the deck is tiled or includes a hot tub or spa.
6. Deck does not contain adequate termite inspection points.
7. In bushfire-prone areas, bushfire resistant construction methods or timbers are not used.
8. Timbers not all sealed, including cut joints in timber.
9. Stair goings and risers not sized correctly according to NCC requirements.
10. Handrails on stairs and ramps not continuous.
Additionally, if a deck is built close to or on the ground, common problems include:
1. Inadequate or impeded drainage.
2. Inadequate subfloor ventilation.
3. Insufficient easy access termite inspection points next to the house.
4. Timber species not of sufficiently durability or preservative treated hazard class for the
closeness to the ground.
5. Inadequate deck board spacing.