Special Publication 2014 - Big Ideas For Small Full

12 AMAZING PROJECTS BUILT WITH HOME-CENTER MATERIALS
Build this
Workbench with Tool Rack
by this weekend p.76
• <II
Display until December 9, 2014

11
Big Ideas for
Editor.s Letter Small Workshops 2014
EDITORIAL CONTENT CHIEF DAVE CAMPBELL
DEPUTY EDITOR CRAIG RUEGSEGGER
PUBLICATION EDITOR LARRY JOHNSTON
ART DIRECTOR KARL EHLERS
PUBLICATION ART DIRECTOR JOHN GEARHEART
SENIOR DESIGN EDITOR KEVIN BOYLE

DESIGN EDITOR JOHN OLSON
TOOLS EDITOR BOB HUNTER
GENERAL-INTEREST EDITOR NATE GRANZOW
DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER LUCAS PETERS
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT SHERYL MUNYON
CONTRIBUTING CRAFTSMEN JIM HEAVEY, BOB BAKER,
PHOTOGRAPHERS DEAN SCHOEPPNER,JASON DONNEllY, JAY WILDE
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS TIM CAHILL, LORNA JOHNSON, ROXANNE LeMOINE
PROOFREADERS IRA LACHER,JIM SANDERS
--------------------------------
ADVERTISING AND MARKETING
VICE PRESIDENT & GROUP PUBLISHER SCOTT MORTIMER
GROUP BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR CURTBLADES
ADVERTISING SALES REPRESENTATIVE LISA GREENWOOD
SALES ASSISTANT NANCYECHEVERRIA
MEREDITH NATIONAL MEDIA GROUP

PRESIDENT TOM HARTY
EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENTS

PRESIDENT, MEDIA SALES RICHARD PORTER
henever I ask a home woodworker, "What's one
W
PRESIDENT, PARENTS NETWORK CAREY WITMER
thing you'd like to add to your shop to make it PRESIDENT, WOMEN'S LIFESTYLE THOMAS WITSCHI
better?" I often hear "more rooml" But going big- PRESIDENT, MEREDITH DIGITAL JON WERTHER
PRESIDENT, MEREDITH HQME GROUP JAMES CARR
ger isn't the only way-or necessarily the best way-to CREATIVE CONTENT LEADER GAYlE GOODSON BUTlER
improve a home workshop. CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER NANCY WEBER
A well-conceived small shop often proves far more CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER MICHAEl BROWNSTEIN
efficient and enjoyable than a large space full of tools and GENERAL MANAGER DOUG OLSON
equipment set up without adequate forethought. So we've SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS

filled this publication with solid solutions for planning, CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER ANDY WILSON
equipping, and organizing a shop to provide maximum DIGITAL SALES CAROLYN BEKKEDAHL
RESEARCH SOLUTIONS BRllTA ClEVElAND
capability in a modest footprint.
Inside, you'll find tricks that will help you make better VICE PRESIDENTS
use of every square foot in your shop. Tips on tool selection, BUSINESS PLANNING AND ANALYSIS ROB SILVERSTONE
including how to .buy a tablesaw (usually the anchor CONSUMER MARKETING JANET DONNEllY
CORPORATE MARKETING STEPHANIE CONNOllY
machine in a home woodworking shop), will help you equip COMMUNICATIONS PATRICK TAYlOR
your workspace. And, of course, we've included complete HUMAN RESOURCES DINA NATHANSON
instructions for building workbenches, tool stands, organiz- CORPORATE SALES BRIAN KIGHTliNGER
ers, and other projects designed to increase your workshop's DIGITAL VIDEO ·LAURA ROWLEY
DIRECT MEDIA PATTI FOLLO
versatility. With all this great information, you can't help BRAND LICENSING ELISE CONTARSY
but make your shop better, no matter the size.
meredith
CHAIRMAN AND CHiEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER STEPHEN M. LACY
PRESIDENT, MEREDITH LOCAL MEDIA GROUP PAUL KARPOWICZ
-----------------_._-
VICE CHAIRMAN MELL MEREDITH FRAZIER
IN MEMORIAM - E.T. MEREDITH III (1933-2003)
.----
Dave Campbell Our subscribers list is occasionally made available to carefully selected firms whose products may be of interest to
WOOD" magazine Editorial Content Chief you. If you prefer not to receive information from these companies by mail or by phone, please let us know. Send your
request along with your mailing label to Magazine Customer Service, PO Box 37452, Boone, IA 50037·0452.
[email protected]
COCopyright Meredith Corporation 2014 All rights reserved. Printed in the US.A.
Retail Sales: Retailers can order copies afWOODfor resale by e-mailingjennifer.buser@meredith.(om
SUBSCRIBER SERVICE
Go to woodmagazine.comihelp; write to WOOD magazine, PO Box 37508, Boone, IA 50037-0439;
or call us at 800-374-9663, option 1.
woodmagazine.com
Table of Contents
Small-shop tactics
4 Lessons for your shop
Get high-efficiency ideas from WOOD
Magazine's Idea Shop" series.
7 Establish workstations
Grouping tools and equipment for
specific tasks aids efficiency.
8 Focuson flexibility
Limited space calls for getting the
most use from every square foot.
10 Keep things tidy

Well-organized, uncluttered spaces
make working easier.
Great shops in less than 400 sq. ft.

20 Reclaiming spaces 28 Recipe for a small shop
Salvaged and repurposed materials A chef cooks up a small shop by
make a great shop for less money. applying kitchen principles.
24 Lessis more 32 Bare necessities

A minimalist shop proves that Mobility makes this shop easy to
less can be better. -~ rearrange for most efficient use.
12 Make the most of your workbench

Think of your workbench as more than
just a flat surface to work on.
15 Get things rolling

Mobilize your shop equipment so you
can vary the layout to fit the task.
16 Store accessorieswith tools

Keep all the pieces together to
conserve time as well as space.
18 Give tool bases extra duties

Bases need to do more than just hold
tools to earn their keep in small shops.
2 Big Ideas for Small Workshops 2014

Big Ideas for Small Workshops 2014
Tools
38 How to buy a tablesaw 54 Hand planes
Choose the right tablesaw for Even a fully power-equipped shop
your shop and the work you do. needs at least a couple of planes.
42 Pocket-hole jigs 58 All about wood chisels

Make strong screw joints easily Chisels, some of the oldest of tools,
with these affordable accessories. still deserve a place in your shop.
46 Compact routers 63 Our favorite hand tools

Small-body routers offer big-router WOOD@magazine editors and
.features in a convenient size. contributors pick tools they like.
50 One-hand bar clamps 66 Shop-proven products

Squeezing instead of twisting makes These tools have eamed a place
these clamps quick and easyto use. in our shop and yours.
Projects
68 Go-anywhere tool caddy
This rolling cart carries tools and
supplies to the job.
75 Swing-out tool stand

Keep a tool up against a wall until
you need it with this stand.
76 Built-to-Iast workcenter
Start your shop with this easy-to-build
workbench and tool board combo.
82 Double-duty workbench
Parkyour tablesaw under this combination
workbench and outfeed table.
88 Benchtop router table

Even the smallest shop has room
for this feature-filled router table.
94 Flip-top tool bench

Tools share space on both faces
ofthis space-making benchtop.
98 Dust-collecting tool stand

Gather sawdust with this roll-around
collector that doubles as a tool base.
104 Rolling tool cabinet

This tool chest offers plenty of
storage and pride of craftsmanship.
111 Shop Tips

Put these helpful hints and tricks
to use in your shop.
Built-to-Iast
workcenter 76
..---
wood magazine. com 3
Small-shop success tactics
WOOl)® magazine editors unveiled the Idea Shop in the September 1992 issue.
The shop demonstrated how to layout and organize an efficient, fully functional
workshop in the space a home woodworker might have. Here are proven methods
for maximizing workshop efficiency learned from the Idea Shops, plus more
examples from readers'shops.
he first Idea Shop proved so popu- Effective space utilization, tool selection, The shops demonstrated layouts, tool
T lar with readers that it led to

Idea Shop 2 a mere two years later.
From the beginning, WOOD Magazine's
storage and organization, lighting, heat-
ing, dust collection, and more came under
the editors' microscopes for study and
choices, and storage options that fit into
typical home-workshop spaces-a room
in a garage, a two-car garage, a basement,
Idea Shop®-five layouts in all (see page analysis. Readers' comments and sugges- an outbuilding, and a single bay in a
6)-brought innovative thinking to tions provided additional ideas and three-car garage. Here are the shops and
home-workshop design and construction. design criteria for consideration. some lessons drawn from them.
IDEA SHOP 1
The original WOOD magazine
Idea Shop (photo above) filled a
14x28' room in a rural garage with
a full complement of tools and
equipment. Innovative storage
and organization made the shop
work effectively. -
Belt/disc sander
r 14'
Finishing
. Jointer/planer
area
station
Exhaust
•
Finishing
Workbench
fan
!• 28' ---------------<.-i!

IDEA SHOP 2
f-------------- 24' • I
"--------~\~~----------ch,. ~
Bandsaw
Swing"open cabinets
Scrollsaw
--~--"
('----------~\
Workbench
1
1
1
1
1 1
Cabinet 1 1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Tablesa w
1
1
1
n
Planer~
~
1
1 • ~
@
rn
Idea Shop 2 showed how a full workshop Lathe
1
1
1
1
LJ
1 Jointer
could fit into a suburban two-car garage 1
while still enabling the garage to shelter 1
1
vehicles between work sessions.
1 1
Desk : . Vehicle 1 Vehicle ~
I, _'parkill~.:~~~_; __ par~~g ~E'ac~_ Lumber
storage
i
First aid
Compressor
Intercom Garage door
IDEA SHOP 3
~1·~--------------~----16'--------------------~·1
Wall
Drill press
cabinet
Perforated
hardboard
Flip-up 12'
router table
Bandsaw
Wall
cabinet
Mitersaw
Trash can
rofr"-r·
.
Flip-up counter.
to expose lathe
--&;=1:--- tg--l
IIIPlaner/sander
table
Cyclone
dust collector
Idea Shop 3 took the traditional basement

workshop to new standards of efficiency and
capability. Keeping dust and noise out of the
living space received special attention.
woodmagazine.com 5
IDEA SHOP 2000
f-I·~------------ 20'---------------1. I
A 12x20' outbuilding behind a suburban home

became the site for the next Idea Shop. Mobile
tools can be wheeled out onto a covered portico
between the house and shop to expand work space.
Drilling
accessory
cabinet
Sink
Workbench Jointer
Clamp rack D'mp~
IDEA SHOP 5
i Drill
Dust-
I P"" ";':~::;,
collection
15' duct Tables~~/
routing
center !---.
,i Dust-
: i collection
Mobile i i duct
rI----., I base !! Idea Shop 5 outfitted a lSx22' bay in a three-car
i l Lathe garage with versatile modular cabinets and tool
bases for maximum adaptability. A wall-cleat
system allows easy storage reconfiguation.
\<::::::~") [J~~~!~E~
l _~~~i~~~~~~~~~:~~Lumber rack
Floor sweep -j;.-J;::j~)~~~~~~~~='J
-More Resources .----~~----

Issues in which shops first appeared
~ Idea Shop, Issue 54, (September 1992) See more photos and descriptions of Find Idea Shop projects and more
~ Idea Shop 2, Issue 72, (September 1994)* the Idea Shops, including the work- on the Maximizing Your Shop Space
benches, storage organizers, and digital article collection, $29.95,
~ Idea Shop 3, Issue 100, (November 1997)
other projects developed for each woodmagazine.com/shopprojects.
~ Idea Shop 2000, Issue 119, (December 1999)* shop, along with links to purchase
~ Idea Shop 5, Issue 151, (October 2003)* individual plans for those projects at
woodmagazine.com/5ideashops.
'Purchase copies of these issues at woodmagazine.com/backissues.

Tactic 1:
Estab ish
workstations
To make the best use of any shop space,
arrange tools and equipment to keep every-
thing you need for certain operations close
at hand. Concentrating your clamps, glu-
ing supplies, and fasteners near your
assembly bench, for instance, saves both
time and space. You won't have to search
all over the shop for the things you need;
having everything together enables you to
accomplish more work in less space.
In most workshops, the tablesaw is the
de facto primary workstation. Positioning
it for easy infeed and outfeed access often
proves the best starting point for shop T Finishing area
planning. In small shops, a mobile base Drawing the curtain shields the
allows repositioning the tablesaw to meet finishing corner in Idea Shop 1 from
more needs. Set up workstations to accom- dust. With the curtain open, the space
modate the kinds of projects you do. .•. Woodturning area can serve other uses. Cabinets keep fin-
Here are a few of the many workstations The lathe, storage for turning tools, and ishing supplies close. A covered metal
from the Idea Shops. a grinder for sharpening fit neatly into container provides safe disposal for
a corner in Idea Shop 1. The mobile finish-soaked rags
base for the lathe enables it to swing out The drop-down table includes a
to make a corner workstation and to turntable for contortion-free finishing.
facilitate cleanup. When not in use, the table folds into
The freestanding dust-collector hood the wall cabinet to free up floor space.
behind the lathe catches chips as they
fly off the woodturning and can move
elsewhere in the shop to suck up dust .
...•Mitersaw station
The long wall-hung mitersaw bench in
Idea Shop 5 fits into a corner beside the
overhead door yet still allows cutting
long pieces without interference. The
cleat-mounted mitersaw station moves
easily to afford more space to the right
of the saw, if needed.
Lumber comes in through the garage
door and stores on racks above the
mitersaw to minimize lumber handling.
With a jointer mounted on a mobile
base, it's easy to set up a lumber prep
workstation where boards can be cut to
length and jointed without toting them
all over the shop.
woodmagazlne.com 7
Tactic 2:
Focus on
flexi ity
When you have only a little space to play with, think about
ways to make each square foot of floor (and wall) meet
multiple needs. Mobilizing equipment to allow easy shop
reconfiguration, mounting several tools on a single base, and
creating work surfaces that fold up when not in use are just
some of the ways you can make your shop seem bigger.
Often, the tablesaw and a workbench or assembly table earn
the center ring in a shop layout, with other tools and equip-
ment arrayed in leftover space around them. Simply putting
those two largest pieces of equipment on casters lets you open
up floor space in your shop for more efficient use when the
situation demands.
• Workbench contains
pull-up router table
A router table (above) pulls up from
inside the workbench (left) in Idea
Shop 3. A separate router table would
eat up lots more room.
Compact solutions like this work best
for tools you don't use very often. In
this case, if you rely on a table-mounted
router frequently, a better solution
might be to set a full-size router table
on a mobile base. You'll enjoy the
advantages of a full-featured table when
you work on it, but you can move it out
of the way when you don't need it.

~ Mitersaw moves to work
A rolling mitersaw stand with swing-up
work supports parks out of the way in a
corner of Idea Shop 2000 (right). For cutting
stock, the cart goes anywhere in the shop
that affords enough space. For long stock,
just roll the stand out through the double
doors onto the walkway between the house
and shop (far right). The outdoor workspace
solution works at least seasonally in most
places, if not year-round.
•• Wall cabinets store double

Wall-mounted cabinets in Idea Shop 2 feature tool storage
on the inside of the doors, effectively doubling the amount
of storage available. Closed, the doors shield tools from prying eyes
(below left) when the garage doors are open .
• Cars and tools all park inside

Equipment on mobile bases parks along the wall (above) when Idea Shop 2 serves
double-duty as a two-car garage. With the cars out, mobilized equipment allows
setting up a shop layout that fits the needs for any project (above middle).
woodmagazlne.com 9
Tactic 3:
Keep
things tidy
Working in a clean, well-organized shop always makes a project go
better. A small shop is no excuse for a cluttered shop. Always provide
adequate storage for tools and equipment rather than just stacking
stuff on open shelves; enclosed storage keeps things from getting
dusty and makes shop cleanup easier. Avoid tripping hazards-
run dust-collection ducts overhead instead of draping hoses across
the floor and provide plenty of electrical outlets near workspaces to _
minimize extension-cord use.
Here are some ways the Idea Shops tackled organizational and
environmental issues.
.•. Collect dust and chips

You can probably find enough space in any shop for a
high-efficiency cyclone dust collector, like this one in Idea
Shop 5. Effective dust collection at the sources keeps a shop
enjoyable to work in and helps you breathe better air.
.•. Keep stuff close

Cabinets and tool boards clustered
above the Idea Shop 5 workbench
keep tools and supplies handy. Slide- .•. Use all your space
out shelves hold larger tools in cases. The long mitersaw bench in Idea
Shop 3 offers storage underneath for
~ Tuck tools away portable tools in cases. Routers, ac-
A lift-up scrollsaw (similar to the cessories, saw blades, and a tablesaw
Idea Shop 3 router table, page 8) and
miter sled all reside out of the way on
a flip-over planer-and-jointer stand, the wall behind the saw station.
right, pack a lot of tools into a small
space in Idea Shop 2000.

Tactic 4:
Make the most of

your workbench
.•• A maple top and hefty maple legs make this workbench
heavy and stable, ideal for cutting, chiseling, and planing.
Drawers and shelves in the otherwise dead space under the
benchtop hold tools and supplies.
~ An end vise, a leg vise, and well-spaced holes for bench

dogs add versatility and multiple work-holding options to
any bench. Position a nonmobile bench in the workshop so
you can work from both ends and both sides.
.•• T-tracks set into this benchtop provide

adjustable hold-downs. Adjustable feet en-
hance stability and make leveling easy.
Drawers provide storage, and a shelf above the
drawers helps reduce benchtop clutter.

<11II Drawers beneath this workbench, plus a tool board and
supply bins on the back wall, create a compact workspace
with plenty of storage. Kreg plates set into the benchtop
receive clamps for easy work holding. The benchtop planer
and drill press beside the bench sit on mobile bases, so they
can move to accommodate long workpieces on the bench.
~ A pair of drawers for portable tools and a cabinet that

holds routers on slide-out shelves give this workbench
plenty of useful storage space. Holes for bench dogs, a pair
of Kreg plates for clamps, and two vises provide many
workholding options. A power strip under the benchtop
keeps cords under control, and a holder on the end corrals
clamp supports (shown in use in the inset photo).
<11II A deep drawer and two sets of shallower drawers

add substantial storage to this 6' bench. A shelf above the
drawers provides a place to keep tools and supplies near at
hand during a project but off the benchtop. The bench
features vises on an end and a side.
~ Slate countertops salvaged from a high-school

science lab give this storage-rich wall-mounted
bench a solid, smooth worksurface. Windows let
in lots of natural light.
woodmagazine.com 13
~ .Cabinetry and workbench com-

bine in this built-in garage wall unit.
A drop leaf with vises (above) in-
creases workbench versatility. The
work surface features %" hardboard
covering, which is easy to replace if
it becomes marred.
~ Casters carry this massive bench (it

weighs more than 500 pounds) into place;
then it sits solidly and stably on laminated
wood pyramids. The 6'-long side vise boasts
two chain-drive screws that help it close
evenly to accommodate long workpieces
on the bench.
~ T This sturdy workbench, built from

2x4s and OSB, features a top glued up
from 4/4 lyptus (a dense, sustainable
hardwood) and hard maple. End and
side vises, clamp storage cleats on one
end, and a storage shelf round out the
versatile and inexpensive design.

Tactic 5:
Get things rolling
.•. Tools on mobile bases park along one wall, leaving plenty of floor space in
the middle of the shop that can be configured for any need.
.•. Sturdy mobile bases for the tablesaw

and jointer allow them to be positioned for
the most effective handling of wide or long
~ This mobile assembly material. The mobile assembly table has an
table incorporates clamp adjustable-height top, so it can serve as
storage, so everything - an outfeed table for the tablesaw.
remains close at hand
for glue-ups and project
assembly.
..••This cart keeps an assort-

ment of clamps ready for use
anywhere in the shop, and
makes it easy to get them out
of the way when not needed. A
cart like this could park under
a workbench.
.•. Heavy-duty casters make this workbench

easy to wheel around the shop. When positioned,
the casters retract, and the bench stands solidly
on its legs.
woodmagazine.com 15
Tactic 6:
Store accessories
with tools
~ T Adding two drawers
to this drum sander's base
provides plenty of storage
for sanding supplies .
.• This handsaw's fence, miter gauge, pushstick,

pushblock, and hexhead wrench ride right along
with the saw when it rolls to a new location on T Just a little work transformed
..••
its mobile base. Custom-fit holders attached to the stand for an old radial-arm saw
the saw base hold the accessories securely. into a spindle-sander base with
plenty of drawers for sanding
supplies. Mounted on a mobile
base, the stand keeps the tool and
accessories together wherever they
go in the shop .
..••Router bits store in holders on the

doors of this router-table cabinet.
The cabinet also holds additional
routers and accessories.
..•.This 20x24" cabinet organizes tablesaw blades and accessories
in one compact unit. The cabinet rolls under the saw's extension
table for out-of-the-way storage .
..•.~ This mobile lathe station puts

turning tools and pen-making supplies
close at hand for turning sessions
and makes it easy to put everything
away when finished. Sections of pve
plumbing pipe attached to the ends
hold turning tools and protect their
cutting edges.
~ Here's another bandsaw with

its accessories-a fence, miter
gauge, and tapering jig-on
board and ready for use wherever
the saw is set up.
- -
..•. Plenty of storage space in this router table keeps bits and ..•. This cabinet collects tablesaw blades, jigs, and accessories in
accessories handy. Easy access to the router facilitates one convenient location-right next to the saw cabinet beneath
adjustments and bit changes. the table extension.
woodmagazlne.com 17
Tactic 7:
Give tool bases

extra duties
~ T A benchtop drill press jointer,
and bandsaw share space on this
mobile base. Drawers hold shop
supplies as well as accessories.
.•. This flip-over base holds a mitersav

planer. The design could be adapted 1
other tool combinations-a bench grin,
a sharpener, for example.
~ .•. Sanders make great candidates for clustering on a common base, as these three
examples show. Dust-collection hoses can be routed to one or two connections, so
you can gather dust from any machine with minimum hose-switching. Size drawers
and storage compartments to hold supplies for the machines on the base .•
Great shops less than 400 sq. ft.
If you think a decent workshop requires factory-size floor space, think again.
These four examples show how smart use of limited space can create a super shop.
spaces
This enterprising
woodworker found the right
materials, from reclaimed
to repurposed, to finish the
interior of his small shop
just the way he likes it.
W
es Bowling's shoestring budget
forced him to spend a great deal
of time planning the interior of
his shop. Then he put in more time network-
ing with friends to scrounge materials.
The drywall, for example, came from
friends who had material left over after fin-
ishing their basement. His shop wiring was
left over from a previous house project. And
when a local photography store remodeled,
he carted off the old flooring for his shop. "I
am always looking for a good deal," he says.
Wes set up his shop in a standard 8x14'
wood-framed utility shed he built on the
large concrete patio behind his home. Of
course the patio provides a rock-solid founda-
tion for the building. But because Wes knew
interior space would be at a premium in his
shop, he also picked the patio location to give
him access to a sizable area for constructing
larger projects outside the shop.
From the exterior, the finished building
looks just like what it is: a well-built, nicely
painted and shingled utility shed. But on
the inside, it's far from typical. .
(Re)claim to fame
Another reclaimed material lines two oppos-
ing walls of Wes' shop-the slatwall system
continued on page 23

-- -----
SHOPSPECS
TYPE: Dedicated shed

SIZE: 8x14' (112 sq. ft.); 8'
ceilinq with open rafters
CONSTRUCTION: 2x4 frame

and OSB exterior; drywall,
slatwall, and perforated
hardboard on interior
HEATING AND COOLING:

Wall-mounted 220-volt
combined heating/AC unit
ELECTRICAL: 220- and 11O-volt
service with eight duplex outlets
LIGHTING: Main lighting is two

4', four-bulb fluorescent fixtures,
with a 4' single-bulb fluorescent
unit over the workstation.
Two magnetic-base spotlights
provide task lighting.
DUST COLLECTION: 1-hp Jet

system with five ports dropped
from ceiling ductwork
Left: Limited space Above: For a small shop, there's a

inside his shop doesn't surprising amount of storage. Wes
limit project size for keeps power tools, a selection of turning
Wes. Whenever he blanks, and project supplies in this
needs to work on larger melamine cabinet.
projects, he rolls his
tools down a small ramp Previous page: Rolling steel tool chests
(not shown) and onto hold hand tools while wall cabinets
the concrete patio. contain mostly lathe supplies.

Wes puts a premium on proper lighting in his shop. "I have magnetized lights
that I can move closer to my work to help with turning," he says of his setup,
below. "The extra illumination proves critical when I'm finish-sanding and
applying finish to a project."
A slatwall hanging system with numerous

tool hooks offers maximum flexibility. "The
great thing about slatwall is the ability to
move and adjust storage to accommodate
my needs at any given moment," Wes says.
Wes' lathe-tool holder is simplicity in itself. He made the main

box out of scrap lx pine, with dimensions calculated to keep
various diameters of PVC snug once placed inside. Each length of
tubing holds a chisel or other lathe accessory.
1Vi' I.D. PVC 8y.,"' long
Bevel each top

L
20°
1y.,"' 1.0. PVC5%" long
%" I.D. PVC4%" long
Note: All stock is %" thick.
#8 x 1y.,"' F.H.screw

FLOOR PLAN
1~·~--------------------------------14'--------------------------------~·~1
I
Drill Tablesaw
Belt/disc
press Shelf
sander
Bandsaw T601hangers on slatwall
8'
Double-door
cabinets
Trash Tool boxes under bench Dust collector
00 Lathe
~ ~ tool holder Lathe~
Shop
vacuum
0~
U Tool hangers
on perforated
hardboard
Cabinet
Tool chest
e Vand
DVD
Tplayer
.
Power tools on mobile bases provide plenty

of flexibility in this shop. The linear layout
gives a straight path to the shop entrance
for those occasions when Wes wants to roll
continued from page 20 tools outside onto the patio.
that holds clamps, hammers, and other

hand tools.
"The slat wall system was a fluke," he
recalls. "My wife was shopping for last-
Teaching the art
minute deals at a going-out-of-business
sale. She called me about the slatwalls that
of pen-turning
the manager said they were going to sell."
Wes ended up buying three sections of it,
plus lots of hooks and hangers, for a nom-
inal cost. As a result, just about every tool
he needs hangs within arm's reach.
Close, but not cluttered

At 112 square feet, the shop is admittedly
small, but Wes keeps things clean and
uncluttered, thanks to more storage space
iI
than you might expect. Steel tool chests
hug the wall or tuck under his worksta-
tion, while a large cabinet houses power
tools and wood.
Woodturning occupies most of
Wes' shop time. But when he's
not making his own pens, like the
ones shown above, he teaches
II
Putting major power tools and tool cabi- entry-level pen-turning classes
nets on mobile bases allows Wes to move at his local Woodcraft store.
equipment around as needed while he "Pen-turning is a great way for
Because Wes does much of his own auto

maintenance (he learned mechanical
works. The maneuverability also helps
with regular cleaning.
However, his long-term goals include
adding more storage to the back of the
new woodturners to hone their
skills," he says. "I find that it is the
most rewarding when someone
walks out of a turning class with
a finished project."
I
f
skills in his dad's gas station), this rolling
metal tool chest houses an extensive
shed to open up the interior a bit. That was
part of the plan all along. "I positioned I
selection of mechanic's tools as well the workshop with space to extend it if Written by A.J. Hamler
as woodworking drill bits, chisels, and necessary," he says.• Photos: Kevin Lunt Photography
various lathe accessories.
woodmagazine.com
23
Less is D
uring a 27-year career at WOOD® magazine,
Marlen Kemmet had access to a plethora of wood-
working tools and accessories. But instead of
"one of everything and two of some" for his shop, he
more
Instead of a shop stuffed with tools
embraces the principles of tenkara=-the traditional
Japanese method of fly-fishing where only a rod, line,
and fly are used. Like the disciples of tenkara who
believe the more you know, the less you need, Marlen
has become a shop minimalist.
collected during three decades as 345 square feet of shop

For more than 20 years," Marlen says, "I've worked out
If
a woodworking editor, a regular of a 15x23' single-stall garage. From here, I've furnished
deep cleaning keeps everything our home with dozens of Greene & Greene-style furni-
ture pieces and have worked with my children to make
to a minimum in this garage shop. numerous pieces for their own homes and apartments.

"For extra light and ventilation, I often work with the
garage door open," Marlen says, "so I like to keep my
workshop clean and presentable to the neighbors."
L SHOPSPECS
TYPE: Shop occupies third

stall of a three-car garage.
Lathe located in adjoining
gara,ge stall.
SIZE: 15x23' (345 sq. ft.)

with 9'6" ceiling
CONSTRUCTION: Drywall
over 2x6 frame
HEATING Wall-mounted
•• propane heater
ELECTRICAL: Two dedicated

shop circuits are part of
200-amp house panel;
220-volt service powers the
tablesaw ana lathe.
LIGHTING: Four 300-watt

compact fluorescent fixtures
and two ceiling-mounted
halogen lights for task
A wall-mounted %-hp, 650-CFM dust lighting
collector serves stationary tools. A
20'-long hose extends to connect to DUST COLLECTION: %-hp
each machine as needed. Rockier wall-mounted dust
collector; 650 CFM rating;
5-micron bag
AIR COMPRESSOR: 5-hp,
Marlen found a home for clamps, hearing
20-gallon Campbell Hausfeld
protection, and pneumatic tools and
portable compresor.
accessories on two backing boards
to the right of the overhead door track.

FLOOR PLAN
23' ----------------~----------------------~
Clamp rack
StorageJ Glue and finish shelf

Mitersaw
cabinet
Tool hangers on
3f.."plywood
backing board
Mortiser
· Ceiling-
O mounted
halogen Workbench 9'-wide
O lights with storage overhead
underneath door
15'
Tablesaw
Tool hangers on
3f.."plywood
backing board
Clamp rack
Toolhangeron
3f.."plywood
~he backing board
Tool hangers on plywood

"Drywall isn't conducive to hanging tools,"
Marlen says. "So I framed 3,4" plywood with
3,4" oak quarter-round and attached these
backing boards to the wall studs."
The boards allow Marlen to hang commonly
used tools on the walls. Putting tools, bits, and
other accessories in enclosed cabinets keeps
them dust-free, he admits, "but I like not hav-
ing to open and close doors to access my tools."
"With my small-shop limitations, I've found
that less has to be better. So every five years,
I clean my shop from top to bottom. I empty
every drawer and review each and every tool
and supply. Unless I know I'm going to use it in
the next year, I give nonessential items to
my woodworking neighbor or the local high-
school shop. I've given away hundreds of
dollars worth of tools and supplies, but since
they weren't getting used, I really didn't miss
them," he explains .•
Frequently used router bits and battery

chargers have a home just two steps away
from Marlen's workbench.
26 Big Ideas for Small-Workshops 2014

The end wall of Marlen's
garage workshop provides
plenty of space for
clamps, bandsaw blades,
wrenches, and stationary
and benchtop tools. He
purchased the mortiser
(near the service door to
the backyard) when he
began building Greene
& Greene-style furniture.
A mortiser simplifies
making the mortise-
and-tenon joints and
the inset square accents
found on this style.
Measuring and marking tools

fill most of a plywood backing
board on a narrow shop wall
to the left of the-garage door.
-- ~------=-~-.;.-->
r:c; =--.;;... A 22x34" corkboard fastened
to a service door keeps project
-- , plans visible. Marlen built
the crib (inset) from the
drawings shown.
.L- ~ _
woodmagazine.com
27
hen your shop fits into less than 400
Recipe for W square feet of floor space, every inch

counts. With a budget and a tight foot-
print in mind, woodworker Mike Hayes spent a year
researching shops in magazines and online. Mike
a small shop
even built a cardboard model (1"=1') of his 16x24'
shed and tool arrangement before breaking ground
in his backyard.
"I worked 12 years in Newfoundland [Canada]
kitchens," he explains, "and I had to know every
day that all my tools were in the right place. Every-
When Mike Hayes started planning his new shop, thing we needed was hanging on racks. I never did
like drawers-in a kitchen, there wasn't time to
he stirred in skills learned as a-restaurant chef look for things in a drawer.
and kitchen manager to make sure his shop was "And we spent a lot of time on recipe preparation
before trying anything new. So I've carried a lot of
done to perfection. those chef's disciplines into planning and building
this shop. I originally planned a 16x20' shop, but it
wasn't working out right, so I added on to my model.

Mike Hayes' 16x24' shop is just 20 steps from his
back door. A family member framed the structure
and cladded its exterior, and Mike finished off the - -
interior. The 5x6' overhead door and ramp make it
easy to move equipment and materials in and out.
SHOPSPECS
TYPE: Outbuilding
"I'm glad I did, too. The only thing I would SIZE: 16x24' (384 sq. ft.)
change now is that I could have easily built 10' with 8' ceiling
walls rather than 8' walls. I was used to low ceil-
ings in my old basement shop, so I am just now CONSTRUCTION: Wood
frame on pavers; 2x4
realizing how nice 10' ceilings would be when
stud walls; 12" insulation
handling 4x8' sheet goods. Of course, without a in ceiling
roof, the luxury of a 10' ceiling didn't show up
on my scale model," he says with a chuckle. HEATING 1,OOO-watt
"I planned everything down to the dartboard baseboard heater and
in my model. Lots of my neighbors have a dart- ceiling-mounted radiant
heater
board in the shed or garage. It's a popular game
around here." ELECTRICAL: 100-amp
sub-panel with 12 llO-volt
continued on page 31 outlets
LIGHTING: 12 compact
fluorescent bulbs (lOO-watt
equivalent)
DUST COLLECTION: Delta
Shopmaster ceiling-mounted
air scrubber and Powerfist
1-hp wall-mounted dust
collector. A shop vacuum
serves for general cleanup.
AIR COMPRESSOR: 2.5-hp,
10-gallon Brute by Briggs &
Stratton
A 26x71 W' bench provides space for

Mike's drill press, scroll saw, and 4" belt
sander. Mike constructed the top from
two layers of v," plywood and then
covered it with %" hardboard. He stores
a mini-lathe and other tools below.
29
FLOOR PLAN
1--·--~------------24'-------------·1
Wall cabinet
r------~-~J~-=~ ---I
L--=TtilT"-
'
Jointer
under bench Radial-arm saw
Wood storage
over garage door
5' garage door
Drill Belt Fire

press Scroll saw sander extinguisher
Baseboard heater ij i IqJ Mobile wood storage
continued from page 29
"Most of my tools are out in the open

for easy access," Mike continues. "I even
have some tools on perforated hard-
board-the tools look fine, and they're
easy to find. Nothing fancy for me.
"I think my next project will be to
build a cabinet with hinged doors-
something that doesn't take up too
much space but allows me to expand
my hand-tool collection. I want to keep
everything hanging." •
Mike wheels his clamp caddy

into a corner when not in use.
He stores additional clamps
behind the caddy. The corner
cabinet hides a 19" flat-screen
TV, stereo, and DVD player.

.-
,;;.
••
" ;' 'Y
.-= '
Bare • •
neCeSSI res
With just 308 square feet of floor space, every nook
and cranny of this shop has a purpose, allowing
plenty of room to work.
ompared with the coal cellar you'll find plenty of shops boasting
C where he once set up shop, Rick - larger footprints, this backyard retreat
Campbell now works in palatial
surroundings. Daylight streams through
suits Rick to a T.
"The only tools I keep in my shop,"
Corded and cordless drills hang together on
slatwall hangers Rick assembled from \I.Ix3"
the windows into his 14x22' shop, and he Rick explains, "are the ones I use regu- carriaqe bolts, 1\1.1" fender washers, and W' flat
actually can stand up instead of being larly. And I'm ruthless when it comes to washers. He stores removable battery packs
hunched beneath low joists., Although lumber storage. I only buy materials for in a nearby charging station or in a drawer.

~ - " .--
Previous page: In Rick Campbell's shop,
every tool has a home. Rick covered much SHOPSPECS
f the wall space with slatwall or custom
ovable panels that hang on beveled TYPE: Dedicated building
deats (also called French cleats).
SIZE: 14x22' (308 sq. ft.)
Right: Rick stands outside the entrance to with 8' ceiling
Is 14x22' shop. "I kept the construction
costs low," Rick says. "The simple design CONSTRUCTION: 2x6 frame
lowed me to spend more on interior construction on a poured
ures and equipment." concrete slab; vinyl siding
Below: One corner of Rick's shop includes a HEATING Ceiling-hung
obile drill press; wall-mounted mortiser; 220-volt space heater
ickness planer and router table, each
n casters; plus a mobile bench/cart/ ELECTRICAL: A subpanel
- feed-outfeed table. The router table brings in 100-amp service
accommodates two routers with different from the house to power
setups. Above it, two of Rick's cabinets have both 110- and 220-volt
removable frame inserts for project photos. circuits.
LIGHTING: Five banks of

double fluorescent fixtures
recessed into the ceiling
between the joists to
maximize ceiling height
DUST COLLECTION: A 1-hp
collector on wheels connects
to any machine; separate
systems service the bandsaw
and stationary sanders. A
ceiling-mounted air cleaner
removes airborne dust.
oodmagazlne.com 33
-~.
~Iess
'
than 400 sq. ft.
~'
the project I'm working on. I have a

4xlO' lean-to shed outside my shop
with one lumber rack, but everything
else gets burned in the fireplace or
taken to the recycling center."
Door pulls from leevalley.com fit
perfectly in a shop environment. Thumbs up for benches
Rick makes notes on the green "I probably get more comments about
chalkboard panels (purchased at my two workbenches than anything
Home Depot) in his cabinet doors.
else," Rick says, "because they're so
versatile. I replaced a long bench with
two smaller ones-each about 2x4'-
and it's made a big difference in how I
work. They're both on casters, so I can
position them end-to-end or side-by-
side-whatever the project calls for. Or
I split them apart as infeed or outfeed
"This clamp rack organizes my entire support for my tablesaw .
. assortment of clamps in one location,"
Rick says. "The small cabinet in the lower
corner of the panel houses compartments
for web clamps and a pull-out drawer for
clamping accessories."

FLOOR PLAN
t-·-------------------------------22'------------------------------------------~-1
Wall-hung
~
Dust
collector
Shop Mortiser Mobile
vacuum planer
Spindle Cabinet
sander Double
router table
I
Hanging air
cleaner
Tablesaw
Mobile
assembly
bench
with drawer
storage
14'
Tool hangers on
perforated
Jointer on hardboard
mobile base
Tool Bandsaw Mobile

hangers bench
Air compressor
Clamp rack
~
"I kept the tops real simple-a torsion

box sandwiched between %" plywood
sheets. The hardwood sides of the box
stand %" proud of the W plywood top,
creating a recess for a replaceable 1;4" hard-
board top. When it gets too worn, I pop it
out and drop in a new one.
"The other tool that catches people's
eyes is my dual router table. [It's in the
corner in the photo on page 33.] It's a real
time-saver-plus it improves accuracy. If a
project requires two bits to cut a rabbet
and an ogee profile, for example, I keep
both bits in a router. I don't lose any time
with setups-especially if I make a mistake
and need to cut a replacement part." ••
Rick organized turning tools and accessories

directly above the lathe on slatwall panels.
His wall-mounted lathe support secures directly
to the studs with 3" lag screws. i.........J=..J~.::;,;;.;.;..;;;.;;;;;.;;:
DRILL-PRESS TABLE AND CABINET MAXIMIZE UTILITY AND STORAGE
%"T-track
23Y2" long
.:;arknob
Channel
bolt
Y2" rabbet
14"deep
Laminate
%x 20';' x 24Y2" MDFJ
%"MDFunless noted
16" drawer slide
Y4" groove
To match the rest of his shop decor, Rick 14"deep 14"from
built his rolling drill-press stand from 3J4" bottom edge
MDF clad in plastic laminate and birch
trim. Four drawers provide organized
space for drill bits and other related
accessories. "For a while," Rick says, "I
had this benchtop drill press and a really
nice floor drill press with all the bells and
whistles, like laser alignment. But I sold
the floor drill press. Besides no storage,
it wasn't mobile. Plus, I rarely need a drill
press with so much vertical capacity." 4" swivel caster,

How to buy a
tablesaw
Get one that's right for your have to choose from the four types of tion motors run cooler and quieter than
tablesaws: benchtop/job-site, contractor, the universal motors typically found on
shop and the way you work. hybrid, and cabinet. Any of these saws, benchtop/job-site saws.
when well-tuned, make accurate cuts, but • Electrical service. Tablesaws with 2-hp
sk a hundred woodworkers which step-up features increase a saw's usefulness, or larger induction motors typically
A machine a beginner should buy

first, and most will heartily recom-
mend a tablesaw. And with good reason:
as well as its cost.
8 key factors to consider

require 220-volt service. Know your shop's
power capabilities before you buy, or be
willing to add a 220 line. Also, consider
It's ideal for sawing stock to size, getting it when buying a tablesaw what machines you'll operate at the same
square, machining miters and bevels, and • Power. If you regularly work with hard- time, such as a dust collector, so you don't
cutting nearly all types of joinery. woods more than }4" thick, get a saw with overload circuits.
Whether you're buying a tablesaw for the at least a 1Yz-hp motor. (It takes 3 hp to • Price. You can pay anywhere from $120
first time or upgrading your old clunker, make heavy cuts with no bogging down.) for a benchtop saw to well over $4,000 for
begin by narrowing your focus. "First,you'll Totally enclosed fan-cooled (TEFC) indue- a professional-level cabinet saw. As the

A riving knife attaches behind the blade and
moves up and down with it. This device holds
the kerf open and prevents kickback.
woodworkers' creed says, "Get all the tool

you can afford."
• Capacity. All tablesaws feature at least Cabinet saws deliver powerful performance
a lO"-diameter blade, but tabletop sizes
vary' greatly. And maximum rip capacity Just as automobile enthusiasts dream of
ranges from I' to over 4', an important luxury vehicles or speedy sports cars,
consideration if you work regularly with woodworkers long for cabinet-style table-
sheet goods. saws. With heavy-duty components and
• Safety. Newer saws include better safety 3-hp motors, these machines slice through
guards and features (anti-kickback riving wood like it's pudding, yet deliver and
knives, blade-brake technology) than older maintain pinpoint accuracy when set up
models, but often at a higher price tag. For correctly. The term "cabinet saw" comes
example, a riving knife, shown above, from the enclosed steel base that enhances
keeps boards from pinching against the dust collection as well as reduces blade
back edge of the blade, thus preventing and motor noise, though not all tablesaws
kickback. Since 2012, all new saws must with cabinets belong in this group. The
have this feature to comply with more saw of choice for professional woodwork-
stringent safety regulations. Blade-brake ing shops, this will cost you at least $1,000
technology, available exclusively on mod- for a new machine.
els from SawStop, almost instantly stops a A typical 3-hp cabinet tablesaw weighs
spinning blade should a hand or finger 500 lbs or more because of its big motor
come into contact. It could mean a small and cast-iron components. (Pro models
cut instead of an amputation. feature 5-, 7Yz-,or 10-hp motors and also
• Space. If you work in a small garage or can have 12" or 14" blades.) The motor,
basement, your shop might not accommo- mounted below the blade inside the cabi-
Heavy-duty trunnions provide durability and
date a tablesaw with 7' fence rails. Instead, net, drives the blade with either two or accuracy, and also dampen vibration.
opt for a more compact machine with a rip three V-belts or one wide, ribbed flat belt.
capacity of 30" or less. In addition to the To harness this kind' of power, cabinet
Pros:
footprint of the machine, you'll need to saws feature an all-cast-iron inner struc- • Powerful motor for bog-free cuts
leave infeed and outfeed space for ripping ture (yoke, trunnions, gears). The large • Trunnions mount to cabinet for
long workpieces, and side space for crosscut- trunnions mount to the cabinet, shown easy, long-lasting table adjustments
ting long stock. Don't let a too-big tablesaw above right, rather than to the cast-iron • Heavy-duty fence and rails
eat up the very space you need to work in. top, as with other tablesaw styles. This • Large rip capacity
• Dust control. Cutting wood creates is an advantage because adjusting the • Enclosed base improves dust
dust, but not all tablesaws can control it. top parallel to the blade-necessary for collection
Closed-base saws with dust ports prove accurate cuts-requires loosening only • Large, comfortable handwheels
most effective at channeling debris to a three of the four bolts that connect it to • Low blade and motor noise levels
• Typically, a large power switch in
dust collector, while many open-base con- the cabinet and pivoting the top.
an easy-to-reach location
tractor and benchtop/job-site saws simply Cabinet-style saws typically come with • A few models have built-in or
let the dust fly. fence rails that provide SO-54" of rip included mobile bases
• Availability and service. Online deal- capacity-mighty handy for working with
ers can ship a tablesaw to your shop, but 4x8' sheet goods. Don't need that much? Cons:
will they provide parts should it break You can get one instead with 30"-capacity • Prices start at around $1,000
• Requires 220-volt electrical service
down? You might prefer to buy from a rails, an attractive option for small shops.
• Heavy, so mobility is limited
local retailer if you're not confident in Most cabinet saws feature T-square-style • Large footprint on saws with long
making your own repairs. fences with heavy-duty rails. fence rails
woodmagazine.com
These tablesaws aren't just for contractors
The contractor-style tablesaw gets its SMALLER PARTS=MORE WORK
name from decades back, when home
builders used them on location. Today,
you'll seldom see one on a job site, thanks
to the evolution of the lighter-weight
benchtop/job-site saw.
Contractor-style saws feature cast-iron
tops, and most now include cast wings.
This added vibration-dampening weight
helps hold an accurate setup longer The small forged-steel trunnions on this
Hybrids blend big-saw
than a saw with stamped-steel wings.
However, the trunnions, much smaller
saw secure to the top rather than the base,
making top-to-blade alignments trickier.
features at 110 volts
than those on a cabinet saw, mount to the A hybrid tablesaw marries the small-shop
tabletop from below, as shown above right. power with slower feed rates and thin- needs of a contractor-style saw (1IO-volt
This makes alignment more difficult kerf blades. Cuts in thick, hard stock may electricity, light weight) with SOIIleof a
because you must reach inside the saw to prove difficult or impossible. cabinet saw's benefits (cast-iron guts,
loosen and move the arbor assembly rather A bare-bones contractor saw costs about enclosed base for good dust collection
than the top. $400, or as much as $1,800 with added and noise reduction) in a modest price
Power ratings on these. saws range from features. Deluxe models overlap the price range. The features vary from one saw to
lVz to 2 hp with nO-volt motors, which range of hybrid tablesaws-and even another. For example, some models have
extend out the back of the saw (as shown approach some low-cost cabinet saws-so forged-steel trunnions as on a contractor
above) and drive the blade with one belt. compare before buying. saw, and others have cast-iron trunnions,
Because the hanging motor adds 15-2011 of
.•. II
depth to the saw, it limits the use of outfeed Pros:
• !"
stands or tables and prevents you from • Pricesrange from $400 to $1,800
stowing the saw flat against a wall. • Ripcapacity equals cabinet-style saw
With a contractor saw, you get 3011 to 36" on some models
of rip capacity standard (with SOli-capacity • Dust hoods or shrouds on some models
rails optional on some models), smaller • Lighterweight than cabinet saws
handwheels, and much lighter weight • Accurate when set up correctly
(200-350 lbs). These saws tend to vibrate • Afew models have built-in
mobile bases
more than cabinet-style saws, suffer greater
likelihood of drive-belt slips (because only Cons:
the weight of the motor provides tension), • Limited power means struggles in
and generate higher noise levels. Many thick, hard materials
models include dust hoods for connection • Trunnions mount to top rather than
to a dust collector, and some even include . <.. base, making adjustments difficult
and shorter-lasting
a plastic shroud around the blade to
• Lighter-duty components allow
channel dust.
more vibration
Although its components are made for • Open design reduces dust-collection
lighter duty than those of cabinet saws, efficiency and increases noise
you still can set up a contractor-style saw • Motor hangs out the back of the •
The trunnions on this Steel Citysaw, as well
for pinpoint precision. However, you stand, adding to footprint as on Craftsman's hybrid, mount to the
might have to compensate for the reduced cabinet rather than the top.
40
top. Rip capacity tops out at 25" on the
Benchtop saws: Good better saws in this class, with some as little
options for small shops as 12". Because of the small tops, you'll
need infeed and outfeed support for
You don't have to be a contractor or trim boards more than 4' long, as well as sup-
carpenter to appreciate these portable port for crosscutting stock of that length.
though they're smaller than those on a tablesaws. In spite of their small stature The better-equipped benchtop/job-site
cabinet saw. and light weight, you can cut hardwoods saws carry price tags that rival those of
To enclose the cabinet, manufacturers if you slow your feed rate and use a thin- middle-of-the-pack contractor saws .•
mount the motors below the arbor assem- kerf blade, but some struggle in 2"-thick
Written by Bob Hunter
bly, as with cabinet saws, but these 11/2- to . hardwoods.
2-hp motors won't have the muscle of a Benchtop/job-site saws feature Llfl-volt Pros:
cabinet-style saw. Like a contractor-style universal motors that provide respectable • Prices range from $120 to $700
saw, most have trunnions that mount to power but are loud and prone to vibration, • Lightweight and easily portable,
the top rather than the cabinet, making thanks in part to direct- or gear-drive especially with collapsible, wheeled
top-to-blade . adjustments even more power trains. Models with closed bases stands
difficult (thanks to the enclosed base) feature good dust collection, but the • Motors run on 11o-volt electricity
and increasing vibration slightly. See the smaller ports are sized for shop vacuums. • Up to 25" rip capacity on some models
photo, opposite, for a welcome exception Many benchtop saws have shallow table • Decent dust collection on closed-base
models
to this style. . slots that accept only light-duty miter
• Small footprint
Hybrids come standard with 30"-rip gauges. They also can be unsafe when cut-
capacity fence rails, but you can upgrade ting large workpieces by yourself because Cons:
to longer rails for up to 54" capacity. The of the narrow footprint 'and small table- • Noisy universal motors tend to lack the
fences typically are the same heavy-duty power offull-size tablesaws
models sold with cabinet saws. • Increased vibration leads to
less-than-furniture-quality cuts.
• Aluminum or molded plastic tabletops
Pros:
lack the durability and vibration
• Prices range from $700 to $1AOO
dampening of cast iron
• Up to 54" rip capacity on some models
• Some models cannot accept a full %"
(with optional fence rails)
stacked dado set on their arbors
• Enclosed cabinet aids dust control and
• Blade-height adjustments typically made
reduces noise
with a single, small, uncomfortable
• Heavier weight than contractor saws
handwheel
• Motors run on 110-volt electricity
• Most models don't have geared-bevel
• Some models have cabinet-mounted
adjustments and must be done manually,
trunnions
making them tougher to set accurately
Cons: • Higher-priced saws overlap mid-priced
• Most models have top-mounted contractor-style saws
trunnions, making blade/table • Light-duty fences
alignment more difficult • Thin throat insert plates make it difficult
• Power (1Y2 to 2 hp) similar to Ryobi's job-site saw features a sliding or impossible to make your own zero-
contractor-style saws crosscut table that locks into place when you clearance inserts
want to make a rip cut or for storage.
41
T
hree "S" words describe pocket-
hole joinery: simple, speedy, and
strong. After using a jig, such as
the one shown at left, to bore angled holes
into one pece, you drive screws to join the
mating pieces. That's it!
The screws and the holes that house
them typically hide on the inside or back
side of a project. Pocket-hole joints excel
on cabinet face frames, where they allow
you to join stiles and rails without driving
screws into end grain. They're also a great
choice for carcase assemblies, dust-panel
frames, drawer boxes, and picture frames.
The jigs for making pocket holes with a
drill range in price from $15 to $200, so
you might wonder how much jig you
really need and which .ones work best. We
tested 11 widely available jigs, and here's
what we learned.
What to look for in a jig

• Dependable drill guides. The heart of
each jig is one or more tubes that guide the
bit for drilling holes at about a 15° angle.
Most jigs use steel guides for long life, but
aluminum guides in the Craftsman 29133
and essentially identical General Tools E-Z
Pro Deluxe 850 wore away during testing,
as evidenced by metal shavings in the
wood dust, even after boring multiple
holes. The Drill Master 96264, despite
having steel guides, also continued to
produce fine shavings.
All but the Kreg Mini jig have at least two
drill guides, allowing you to bore more than
one hole without repositioning the jig. The
Drill Master, Porter-Cable 560 Quik-Jig, and
Steelex D1060 have variable spacing, letting
you adjust the guides to best suit your work-
piece's width. Three fixed guides on Kreg's
K4MSand K5 give you three spacing options
with each placement of the jig. All the jigs
except Kreg's Mini let you drill two pocket
holes in lYz"- and 2"-wide stock-the two
most common widths for cabinet face
Pocket-hole
frames-without repositioning the jig.
We prefer jigs with centerlines marked .
on the guides for quickly aligning work-
pieces before clamping and drilling. All
•• but the CMT PPJ-002, Craftsman, and
JIgs
You can't beat these affordable tools
for creating quick, rock-solid joints.
General Tools jigs have this feature.
• Clean-cutting bits. All the tested jigs
use stepped drill bits, similar to those
shown on the next page, which bore both a
pocket for the screwhead and a smaller
pilot hole for the shank, leaving a shoulder
for the screwhead to snug against. A stop
collar, secured by a setscrew, limits the
bit's drilling depth based on the workpiece
thickness. All the provided stop collars

-BETTER BITS MAKE CLEANER HOLES
_J;:'
Workpiece ,,'
thic~ness ,_"..:
{
settings -, -
- '{
Craftsman's tapered bit works best with To precisely set the stop collar for the Kreg R3 After 40 holes, a Kreg bit made the left
flathead screws. All the other jigs use bits jig, place the bit in the case's holder, slide the pocket hole in veneered plywood. But after
that bore holes with square shoulders for collar to the workpiece thickness, and tighten equal testing, the Drill Master bit caused
the washer-head screws. the setscrew. substantial tear-out (right).
- maintained the set depth without slipping, able to create tight joints in W stock with Sommerfeld-work best as benchtop jigs,
but the Kreg and Porter-Cable models were all the test models. The CMT, Drill Master, where you bring the workpiece to the jig.
easiest to set correctly. all of the Kreg jigs, and the Porter-Cable CMT's jig comes in two parts (drill guide
In our testing, the supplied bits from can make pocket holes in Yz"stock. All and clamp) that must be mounted to a
Kreg, Porter-Cable, and Sommerfeld Tools tested jigs make pocket holes in lYz"-thick board. Among those five better-for-bench-
cut cleanest over the greatest number of material as well, but with the Craftsman top jigs, all but the Porter-Cable and Kreg
holes. The Craftsman, General Tools, and and General Tools jigs, you can't center the K5 require loosening a jam nut before
Drill Master bits dulled noticeably while screw's exit point on the workpiece's thick- threading the clamp face in or out-a
drilling 40 holes, causing workpiece tear- .ness, resulting in weaker joints. fussy process. All clamp securely once
out, shown at top right. Only the Steelex jig Porter-Cable's jig has a simple adjustment adjusted. Workpiece supports on the
comes without a bit; you can buy one sepa- for workpiece thickness, shown on the next Kreg and Porter-Cable jigs have stops for
rately for $11, but it does not include a stop page. With the Sommerfeld jig, you swap repeatable workpiece positioning.
collar. (Any bit from the other jig-makers the W drill guide for a 1Yz"guide; there's Should you ever need to drill pocket
would also work.) no adjustment for thicknesses in between. holes in an assembled or built-in project,
• Simple thickness adjustments. Most • Ease of clamping. The jigs that come the Kreg R3, K4MS, and K5 and Sommer-
woodworkers use pocket-hole screws pri- with built-in clamps-Drill Master, feld jigs work best. The K4MS comes with a
marily with %,"-thickmaterial, and we were Kreg K4MS and K5, Porter-Cable, and holder into which you slip the drill guide,
--
Craftsman 29133, $40
800-549-4505, craftsman.com
CMT PPJ-002, $90

888-268-2487, cmtusa.com
General Tools E-Z Pro 850, $50

800-697-8665, generaltools.com
woodmagazine.com 43
Tools
With the Porter-Cable Quik-Jig's clamp locked, you insert your workpiece, push down on the adjustment knob until the drill guide contacts the
board, and then twist the knob to lock in the setting. After drilling, release the clamp lock to change workpieces.
effectively making it a larger version of the roundings. The Kreg K4MS, Porter-Cable, MATCH THE SCREW TO THE 08
R3 jig. The KS includes an attachable heel and Sommerfeld jigs come with both
stop. The Kreg R3 does not come with a bits; the CMT, General Tools, and Kreg R3 Micro screw (W' stock)
clamp, but secures to a workpiece easily and KS jigs just have 6" bits. The other jigs
with a bar clamp or Kreg's locking-pliers come without driver bits .
clamp. Sommerfeld's drill guides also work • Optional drill guides. Kreg sells
like the R3 when removed from the jig. specialized drill guides that fit into the Regular screw (%-1%" stock)
K4MS and KS jigs so you can better
More difference-makers match the pocket-hole and screw size to
• Driver bits. We prefer a 6"-10ng bit for the material thickness. For example, the
driving the square-drive screws in pocket Micro guide works with 1jz"-thick stock HD screw (1W' stock)
holes, because 3" driver bits can cause and comes with a smaller drill bit and
the drill's chuck to contact and mar the screws. And the HD guide works with
workpiece. A 3" bit does prove handy, 11/z"-thickstock, using a larger-diameter
though, for driving screws in tight sur- bit and screw. (See the photo at right.)
Kreg Mini, $22 Kreg K4MS Master System, $150

800-447-8638, kreqtool.corn 800-447-8638, kregtool,com
Kreg R3, $45

800-447-8638, kreqtool.com
Workpiece support/stop

We found winners
at 3 price points Kreg K5, $140
800-447-8638, kregtool.com
The feature-laden Porter-Cable 560
Quik-Jig ($200) sets itself apart with its
quick and easy clamping and adjust-
ments for workpiece thickness, one-time
depth setting on the drill bit, adjustable
guide-hole spacing, a vacuum attach-
ment, and chip tray. Those features
earn it a Top Tool award. But it's strictly
for benchtop use.
The Kreg K4MS Master System
($150) does all that the Quik-Jig does
(with slightly less convenient adjust-
ments), works easily on built-ins and
assemblies, and sells for $50 less, so it
shares Top Tool honors. The K4MS cre-
ates clean pocket holes accurately and
consistently, and comes with more
accessories than any other jig.
The Kreg K5, at about the same price,
another Top Tool, offers quick three-
step setup for workpiece thickness, and' Porter-Cable 560 Quik-Jig, $200
888-848-5175, portercable.com
the added convenience of a front-
mounted clamp lever. Built-in side
extensions add stability and provide
storage for accessories.
To save a little money, you can buy
just the K4 jig ($100) with a drill bit,6"
driver bit, screw and plug assortment,
and case.
To save a lot of money, go with Kreg's
R3 jig. Despite its smaller size, it makes
pocket holes just as well as the Top
Tool jigs, and sells for only $45. You
don't get a clamp, but it works well
with most one-hand bar clamps. It's our
TopValue.. .
Produced by Bob Hunter with Steve Feeney
Sommerfeld Tools 31PC, $90

888-228-9268,sommerfeldtools.com
Drill,e for %" stock

Steelex 01060, $17
800-840-8420, woodstockint.com
woodmaga~ine.com 45
With big-router features packed
into a small body, you'll find one
of these mighty mites invaluable
for your shop.
Compact
routers
you
f do a lot of handheld routing, especially
I edge profiles and shallow cutouts, you'll really

appreciate one of these little/big routers. In fact,
in the WOOD® magazine shop, we find them so
handy and nimble that we reach for them more
than any other router. But this new category of
routers has a few limitations, so make one of these
your second router purchase; your first should be a
mid-size router or kit.
Here are some things you need to know before
adding a compact router-either a plunge model or
a multibase combo kit-to your tool collection.
- .-~- - - - - - - - - - --- -- - - ~----~~ - - -- - - -
Meet the Router family, from Baby to Big Daddy

Trim routers/laminate trimmers came out of Mid-size routers,
the cabinetmaking industry as tools used primarily available in fixed and
for flush-trimming countertops. But woodworkers plunge bases-
appreciate them for their light weight, especially including many models
when edge-routing round-overs, chamfers, and in combo kits-have
coves. They typically have a small, fixed base plenty of power for
and a WI collet, limiting your selection of bits. most woodworking
HP rating: Less than 1 hp. Weight: 3-4 Ibs. tasks and a weight
Price: $30-$125. that's not cumbersome
for handheld routing.
Compact routers Most routers in this class come with variable-speed motors and
combine the nimbleness 1,14"
and W' collets, opening you up to a greater selection of bits.
of a trim router with much They're suitable for most routing jobs, including mounting in a table.
of the functionality of a HP rating: 11f2-214hp. Weight: 7-12Ibs. Price: $100-$300.
mid-size fixed and plunge
router, but in a body
slightly larger than a Full-size routers excel at demanding tasks,
trimmer. Whether in a such as deep mortises or wide profiles for
combo kit (multiple bases raised door panels and architectural
sharing a motor) or a moldings. Often unwieldy and heavy for
dedicated fixed or plunge handheld duties, these routers work best
base, these routers excel at signmaking and routing inlays and hinge mounted in a table. Although most routers
mortises. They beat trimmers for jobs that require more muscle, such in this class are dedicated plungers, you'll
as mortising and routing profiles with larger-diameter bits. Most find a couple of fixed-base models. They all
have only WI collets, but a few accommodate similar metric sizes, come with 1,14" and W collets. HP rating: 3-314
such as those used with some dovetail jigs. hp. Weight: 10-18Ibs. Price: $200-$400.
HP rating: 1-11,14hp. Weight: 4-61f2lbs. Price: $100-$240.

TRIM HARD-TO-REACH EDGES •
The Makita offset base-with a belt powered Subbases on the DeWalt and Porter-Cable DeWalt's plunge base not only has a five-step
collet-lets you keep the weight of the motor routers have molded openings with recesses for turret for incremental routing, but also has an
solidly on the workpiece as you trim the edges. attaching standard P-C-style guide bushings. easy-to-use scale and a fine-depth adjuster.
• Combo kits rule. The ability to switch • Speed changes prove handy. Sometimes know these tools have the muscle when
the motor between bases adds versatility you need to change the router speed for you need it. We also like soft-start motors,
to the multibase kits compared to a bits larger than I" in diameter or to avoid which eliminate the sudden jerk at
plunge-only router. Three kits (Bosch burning woods, such as maple or cherry. start-up. All but the Makita RP0900K and
Colt PR20EVSPK, DeWalt DWP611PK, and Only four tested models (Bosch, DeWalt, Trend T4 have soft start.
Porter-Cable 4S0PK) come with plunge Makita's kit, and the Trend T4) provide .• Gear up for guide bushings. If you plan to
and fixed bases, the best combination variable speed settings. use these routers for closed-template rout-
of price and versatility. The Makita • They're surprisingly stout. We plunge- ing, such as for signs or inlays, you'll want
RT0700CX3 kit adds tilting and offset routed mortises in maple with each router the ability to use guide bushings, shown
bases (next page). You can also buy each of using a Yz" straight bit, and only the Bosch above. So at least one base, preferably the
these four routers with only a fixed base. required a slightly slower feed rate than plunge, should be so equipped. But some
And Bosch sells a Colt kit with fixed, tilt, the others. Granted, that's a job better models require proprietary bushings, an
and offset bases, but no plunge, for $190. suited to a midsize router, but it's nice to adapter, or an additional subbase for use
.. .-.-- - ---. . ---_.. ..---_ ..- .. _.
., "' .. --.-.. ~"" ... -
Compact yet capable: The lowdown onrslxsmall-size routers
Bosch Colt PR20EVSPK, $190 DeWalt DWP611PK, $200
877-267-2499, boschtools.com 800-433-9258, dewalt.com
Bosch launched the Colt in 2005 with only a fixed base; to this day Our favorite kit for a lot of reasons: LEDlights around the collet and
it still proves easy to grip and use. The new plunge base mirrors clear subbases help you see your work better than with other models
Bosch's mid-size plunger (MRC23EVS), only smaller. This base has we tested; the motor slides into both bases in two positions, letting
the greatest plunge travel and tied for best fine-depth adjustment you angle the power cord toward you or away from you when routing.
in our test. But, because the motor fits into the bases only one way On the fixed base, you adjust bit depth by turning a ring, making fine
and the handles on the plunge base (though comfortable) angle adjustments easy; and its D-shaped subbase adds stability and gives
back, it's not practical to operate the router from its "back" side. room to hold with a second hand when needed. The plunge base
(Sometimes we like to angle the power cord toward us.) Neither comes with a molded guide-bushing opening in the subbase, has the
base comes equipped for using guide bushings-you need to buy best depth scale, and tied with the Bosch for best fine adjustment.
an optional attachment (no. RAl126, $8) to use Bosch's proprietary We'd prefer a two-wrench bit-changing system to this model's one
bushings. The kit comes with an edge guide for the fixed base, but wrench and push-button collet lock, especially when changing bits
you must buy an optional guide (no. RA1054, $45) for the plunge with the motor removed from its bases. Edge guide (no. DW6913, $40)
base. Also optional: plunge-base dust-collection hoods (no. PR012, and dust-collection hoods (no. DNP615 and DNP616, $9 each) are sold
$19; no. RAl175, $15). separately.
woodmagazine.com 47
Tools
with bushings. To determine the specific and Porter-Cable routers function in this pinpoint accuracy. The plunge-base
requirements for each model, read the manner. The other models stay in free- depth-control mechanism (scale, stop
product summaries. plunge mode until you push or lift their rod, and turret) makes sure you maintain
• Plunge levers must be easy to use. We levers to lock them. cutting depth whether locked in or mak-
prefer plunge bases on which you depress • Accuracy proves crucial. This router ing repeated plunges, and the Bosch,
the lever to lower the bit because they class excels at fine-detail handheld work DeWalt, and Porter-Cable routers do this
default to locked when released, avoiding because of each unit's light weight, so best. The other models proved finicky or
accidental plunges. The Bosch, DeWalt, the tools must be capable of delivering" lacked fine adjustment.
Makita RT0700CX3, $240 dust-collection hoods, a proprietary guide : Makita RP0900K, $150
800-462-5482, makitatools.com bushing for each base, 14" and VB" collets, : 800-462-5482, makitatools.com
This kit includes fixed and plunge bases and a picnic-basket-sized fabric bag to : One of two dedicated plunge routers in our
as well as tilting and offset bases. The carry it.all. The router worked well in the : test, this model bested the field in our power
latter two, used primarily for trimming fixed base, although its slim body felt : testing (routing Y2" mortises and dadoes),
laminate countertops, serve cabinet awkward to grip at times. (You might : but lacks variable speed. We "likethe trigger-
installers best. But you can save money prefer this if you have small hands.) The : type power switch on one handle-with the
by purchasing the fixed-base router plunge base has a low starting height, : other models you have to. let go of one
(no. RT0700C, $130) and then getting a short plunge range, a complicated : handle to turn power on and off-but it
the plunge base (no.196563-0, $80) depth-stop system, and a difficult-to-use : lacks a lock, leading to finger fatigue on
separately. In addition to the bases, you plunge-lock lever that worked loose on : lengthy jobs.With a low starting bit height,
get a fixed-base edge guide, two several occasions during our testing. : short plunge, no fine adjustment, and a
: plunge lever that easily pops loose from the
: machine, this plunger lacks the user-friendly
: features of other routers ~'"~'\
: in the test. It comes '
: with an edge
: guide, but a
: guide-bushing
: adapter (no.
: 321492-3, $30)
: and dust hood
: (no. 194733-8,
: $12) are sold
: separately.
Porter-Cable 450PK, $190 Trend T4, $100

888-848-5175, portercable.com 877-918-7363, trend-usa.com
This kit is nearly identical to the DeWalt You get a lot for this price, with included edge guide
DWP611PKwith the following differences: (and the longest rails in our test), guide bushings, dust
• It lacks LEDlights and variable hood, and 6mm and 8mm collets (some router jigs come
speed, although it does have with metric bits) to go with the 14" collet. This dedicated
a soft-start motor. plunge router finished just slightly behind the Makita
• The fixed base has a RP0900K in our power test, has variable speed
differently textured (but no soft start), and its handles and power
(and not as effective) switch proved easy to use. But it has
grip and a smaller, the stiffest plunge action, a short
round subbase. plunge range, no fine adjustment,
• Both subbases have and a metric scale that's difficult
guide-bushing-ready to read. The collets have a spring
bit openings. inside for easier bit removal,
but it also limits how deep you
can insert the bit.
When it's time to buy, yellow means speed up ...

...and get the DeWalt DWP611PK,our Top Tool. This kit proved the easiest to use-in both fixed
and plunge bases-for jobs best suited to a compact router. And even though it doesn't include an
edge guide or dust hood, we'd gladly buy them later, ifneeded, to get its user-friendly features .•

~
ShopTips
Collapsible work support

made entirely of scrap
Working in the surplus and salvage busi-
ness, I come across plenty of perfectly
reusable materials. So when designing a
collapsible work support that assembles in
the field and breaks down for storage, I
combined found 2x6 stock, chain-link
fence tubing, and scrapwood.
The tubing slides through holes drilled
in the sawhorse rails and the center sup-
port boards to act as stretchers. To hold
smaller tools and parts, I made a storage
sling by wrapping a piece of canvas around
a pair of dowels and attaching them to the
inside of a sawhorse's legs.
This support works especially well for
cutting down sheet goods and other long
Canvas storage sling
or large pieces, and becomes a large, rock-
solid worksurface by adding a sheet of }4"
OSB or plywood as a top.
-Bob Folty, Tonica, III.
Benchtop catcher stops the slide

Because my workbench lacks dog holes, I worked them, so I made this adjustable To use it, I simply clamp the jig's base
always found myself needing to clamp a benchtop holding jig to keep those pieces cleat in my bench's vise and position
stopblock to. the edge of the bench while firmly in place. It works on any work- the adjustable fence to suit the width of
hand-planing boards. But long or wide bench with a front-edge vise and could the workpiece.
pieces still shifted side to side while I easily adapt to an end-vise bench. -Charles Mak, Calgary, Alta.
Adjustable fence
woodmagazine.com 49
Tools
One-hand
bar clamps
Only buy these clamps if you intend to work with wood, tools,
glue, fasteners, or need to pull two things together. To find the
best, we tested 11 models from seven makers.
ecause you can tighten these then averaged the results
B clamps with one hand while hold-

ing your work with the other,
one-hand bar clamps have become the
and multiplied by the
surface area of the ram
(1.08") to find maximum
standard for convenience and ease of use. clamping force. (See the rip fences or a workpiece to your benchtop
We like 'em so much we have 142 of var- chart on the next page for the results of while you chop dovetails.
ious lengths and brands in the WOOD® our tests. Your results might vary based In addition to clamping strength, a
magazine shop! Your shop needs some, too. on your hand strength.) clamp's jaws should close parallel-and stay
The original clamp in this category, the Irwin's largest Quick-Grip, the XP600, parallel-for best results when gluing up
Quick-Grip, debuted in 1989. But these topped the test with an average of assemblies. The Bessey EZS and Jorgensen
days, you have many models and brands 386 pounds of force. It achieves this ISD 3 clamps did this best in our tests. On
to choose from; so how do you know with beefy components and the smallest the other hand, the Quick-Grip XP600 jaws
which to buy? And in what lengths? Read jaw-travel-per-handle-squeeze (WI), for deflected more than the others, especially
on to find out. greater torque. By comparison, only one as we increased the force, causing glued butt
other clamp, the Lee Valley Aluminum, joints to slip, slide, and misalign. Still, these
The force may be with you averaged more than 200 pounds of force. clamps-which weigh more than any other
Despite most of the tested clamps being But you typically need only about 100 in the test-would be suitable for construc-
light and made of plastic composites, the pounds of force to pull together well-fitted tion and heavy-duty work-holding tasks.
majority demonstrated surprising force. joints. So most of the clamps we tested
To test this aspect, we asked WOOD staff will do the job when it comes to gluing Let's give the boys a hand
members to use one hand to squeeze a up a project. And even the lightweight Regardless of a clamp's strength, if it
hydraulic ram with pressure gauge in clamps that fall below this threshold work doesn't feel comfortable in your hand, or
each clamp until they "maxed out" the well enough for holding things in place, squeezing the trigger to close the jaws
clamp's potential, as shown above. We such as an auxiliary face to your tablesaw's seems unintuitive, you probably won't like

ONE-HANDED CLAMPING POWER LINK TWO CLAMPS FOR EXTRA REACH"'.::' ~
Average damp force in pounds 50 100 150 200

I
250 300 350 400
,
450
DeWalt Medium
Irwin Quick-Grip Mini
__ ~. __ IIIII@ 96
Bora
I
DeWaltlarge ~:32 I I I
I
Jorgensen's jigsaw-puzzlelike connectors at the
ends of the fixed jaws (above) hook together for
added length. You must first flip both fixed jaws
as shown (below). Either of the sliding jaws will
tighten the combined clamp.
Craftsman ~ 14~1
Ii _
Bessey DuoKlamp --f ~A~ !
1~1 I
BesseyEZS -1 ~1"
Irwin Quick-Grip SLlOO --f-------~ 192
Jorgensen ISO3 ~_ ••••• id198

LeeValley Aluminum ~ ~ 269
Irwin Quick-Grip XP600 -'f------....

------~ 386
using it. The Craftsman clamp, shown on Other considerations

page 52, feels awkward with its ratcheting • Clamp lengths. We like 6" and 12"
trigger behind the handle, so you squeeze clamps for their light weight and for
with your palm rather than your fingers. work-holding, where their shorter bars Bessey's Duoklamp proved easiest to convert
To work around this, we held the Crafts- don't get in the way. We also like 24" to a spreader: Swap the pads to the opposite
man "backwards," with the fixed jaw lengths for some larger assemblies because jaw sides and rotate a dial on the sliding jaw.
nearer to our bodies. Bessey's DuoKlamp, they weigh less than pipe or crank-handle
shown on page 52, also differs from the bar clamps. However, these 2-footers lack buying additional, longer clamps. This
field in that its trigger and handle run the clamping force those heavier clamps works well, but setup takes some time.
inline with the bar rather than a typical are able to deliver. Quick Tip: Buy bar clamps in multiples of
pistol-grip style. In some cases, such as All the tested brands have 12" models, four because rectangular projects typically
clamping below waist level, this works and all but Lee Valley offer 6" lengths. require four clamps at a time during assembly.
well, but it takes some getting used to. DeWalt's Medium and Large clamps, • Spreading. Except for the DeWalt
Once you tighten a clamp, at some point though similar in appearance, perform Medium and the Quick-Grip Mini, all the
you have to release it. All but the Bora dis- differently based on their size: The 6" and clamps feature jaws that reverse for
engage easily with a pull of the trigger 12" lengths clamp with only half the force spreading, such as when disassembling a
release, but the more force we applied, the of the 24"- and 36"-long clamps. The Jor- mortise-and-tenon or dovetail project,
more difficult some were to unlock. With gensen ISD 3 clamps uniquely combine by above. This proves an easy task with all
the Bora, we often had to knock the release interlocking, as shown top right, to double but the Bora clamps, which require a
loose with a mallet. capacity and possibly save you the cost of screwdriver to reconfigure.
woodmagazlne.com 51
Tools
• Jaw pads. All but two models have smooth pads; textured
pads on the Bora and Jorgensen clamps can mar your wood.
Jorgensen is correcting the problem by changing to smooth-face
pads for new-production ISD 3 clamps.
Both jaws on the Quick-Grip XP600 pivot 3° upward or 12°
downward to accommodate nonparallel assemblies, such as the
situation shown at right. On the Quick-Grip SL300, only
the fixed jaw pivots. The jaws on both models lock square to the
bar when pivoting isn't needed.
-
The jaws of the Quick-Grip XP600 can pivot, allowing
them to conform to curved and angular shapes.
Bessey DuoKlamp
800-828-1004;'
besseytools.com
Bora
Bessey EZS 866-588-0395;
800-828-1004; boratool.com
besseytools.com
Medium
Craftsman
800-349-4358;
Large
craftsman.com
Jorgensen ISD 3
312-666-0640;
ponytools.com
Irwin Quick-Grip SL300

800-464-7946; irwin.com
Irwin Quick-Grip XP600

800-464-7946; irwin.com
Irwin Quick-Grip Mini . Lee Valley Aluminum

800-464-7946; irwin.com 800-871-8158; leevalley.com
A pair of favorites emerges ~.

At the end of our tests, we found ourselves reaching most often Grips. But the Quick-Grip SL300 clamp exhibits slightly greater
for the Bessey EZSand the Quick-Grip SL300 clamps. They both clamping force, weighs a few ounces less in the shorter lengths,
do a great job with anything you ask of them, and they share our and features the pivoting jaw.•
Top Tool award. The Besseys sell for about 20 percent less per
clamp-effectively netting you five for each set of four Quick- Produced by Bob Hunter with Matt Seiler

Hand planes
for power-tool woodworkers
Hand planes excel at many chores in a power-tool woodworking shop.

Equip your shop with a low-angle block plane and a jack plane to get started.
F
or more than a century, hand For a starter set of planes in your shop, than a block plane and with a wider
planes have remained essentially pick a low-angle block plane (above) and a blade, the jack plane takes two hands and
unchanged in form and function. jack plane (page 57). more force to use.
Even in the age of power tools, these clas- The compact block plane makes short
sic hand tools still earn their keep in a "York of cleaning up edges, softening
woodworking shop. sharp edges, trimming tenon ends, and
More Resources
A properly sharpened hand plane can dozens of other quick tasks. You can use Learn how to tune up a hand plane at
eliminate milling marks to leave a glass- it one-handed and its small size makes it woodmagazine.com/blockplanebasics.
smooth edge or skim a whisper-thin easy to tuck into your apron pocket. Find instructions for restoring vintage
shaving off a project part for a perfect fit. The jack plane handles larger jobs, such planes to use in your shop at
Hand planes even do some jobs better as jointing gluing edges or flattening woodmagazine.com/planerehab.
than power tools (page 56). board faces. Much larger and heavier

Lie-Nielsen601f2adjustable-mouth, low-angle block plane VeritasApron Plane (05P27.02),$89,LeeValley,
(no.1-60-1-2),$165,800-327-2520,lie-nielsen.com. 800-871-8158,leevalley.com.
Buying a plane throat, too. Look for adjustments .Know your plane parts
When you shop for a plane, look for that work smoothly with little This drawing shows the anatomy of a typical block
these three qualities: looseness and lock easily: plane, although the specific adjustment mechanisms
A Oat. sole. The sole of a plane A thick blade. When comparing may differ depending on the model. .
must be flat for it to slide smoothly two planes, the one with the The body comprises the bed, which establishes the
over the wood and cut evenly. thicker blade will probably cut angle between the blade and the sale - the flat bottom
Check it by holding the edge of a more precisely and cleanly. That's of the body. Many block planes have a throat adjustment
metal rule against the sale and because the heavier blade resists plate that slides forward or backward to control the
looking for light between them. flexing and chattering. amount of material the plane removes with each pass.
Easy, accurate adjustments. When WOOD® magazine edi- The front knob serves two purposes: to secure the
Planes usually have two blade tors tested several low-angle throat adjustment plate on planes so equipped, and to
adjustments, one for cutting depth block planes, the Lie-Nielsen 601h provide a place for your index finger (or other hand) for
better control.
and another for cant, the lateral (above) emerged as the Top Tool.
A hole (or sometimes a notch) in the blade engages
movement of the blade that The Veritas 05P27.02 (above right)
the depth-adjustment mechanism. Turning the knob
squares-the cutting edge to the sale. came close in overall perfor- clockwise projects the blade farther through the sale
Some planes feature an adjustable mance and costs less. causing the plane to cut deeper; counterclockwise .
rotation withdraws it. To ensure that the cutting edge
of the blade parallels the sole, a lateral-adjustment
mechanism rotates the blade slightly on the bed. The
lever cap secures the blade to the bed with help from
the lock knob (or lock lever, on some planes).
Lockknob
These two Lie-Nielsenhand planes are identical except for the cutting
angles: the standard-angle 103 (left)and the low-angle 102 (right).
Why a low-angle plane? works well in face grain and edge

Good question. Low-angle planes grain because it's easy to part the
use a blade that's ground to a 25° soda-strawlike wood fibers. Sole
bevel and held in the tool at an On a low-angle block plane,
Bed
angle of about 12°. Combined, that the shallow cutting angle helps
places the cutting angle at about the blade cut more efficiently in Throat
37°, compared to a standard block- end grain. Yet,it still cuts well going Throatadjustment plate
plane cutting angle of 45°. (See with and across the grain, making
photo above.) The standard angle it the more versatile of the two.
"'
woodmagazine.com 55
Tools
Three jobs a hand plane does better than a power tool

Tools with motors cut faster and with less effort than many hand tools, to be sure. But the quiet
and simple block plane performs some tasks better and faster without all the racket.
1 Smoothing end grain. You won't believe

how glass-smooth your cross-grain cuts (such as
dovetails, box joints, and tenons) can be until
you've sliced them clean with a sharp block plane.
Power-tool crosscuts in hardwoods can burn and
softwoods may fuzz. Trying to sand away those
imperfections causes even more fuzzing.
To clean up end-grain cuts, secure the workpiece
in a vise with the end grain up. It's easy to blowout
the end of the cut as the plane exits the workpiece,
so clamp on a scrapwood backing board or slightly
chamfer the trailing edge before making your first
cut. Cut shallow on end grain; you should be able to
peel off a thin shaving like the one shown at right. If
the plane chatters across the cut, sharpen the blade
and/or back out the blade slightly. Don't try to remove too much wood at once when planing end grain. This
translucent walnut shaving is just about perfect. '
................................................................................................................................................................................
2 Planing edge grain. Think a jointer gives

you a perfect gluing surface? Think again. Any
rotating cutter, including router bits and a power
planer, creates a series of closely spaced scallops, as
shown at near right. A few quick strokes with a hand
plane levels those peaks and valleys into a truly
smooth surface for gluing (far right).
Obviously, wood cuts easier with the grain than
across it, so you can cut a little deeper in this situa-
tion. If your plane has an adjustable throat opening,
close it so just a sliver of light peeks between it and
the blade. Without this limitation, the knife tends
to "dive" into the grain and then bounce back up, Looking close up at the edge of this power-jointed board (left) reveals a not-so-
breaking off the shaving and leaving the wood with smooth surface that can weaken a glue joint. A few shallow passes with a sharp
block plane removed the scallops and left a noticeably smoother edge (right).
a rough surface.
3 Chamfering. To soften the sharp edge where

two adjoining faces meet on, say, a table leg or
bed post, you might be tempted to reach for your
router or a sanding block. By the time you find
your chamfering bit (much less install it), you could
have knocked off those hard edges with a plane
with less effort and smoother results than sand-
paper. Not only is a plane faster, but it also can
chamfer in ways power tools cannot, such as creat-
ing a tapered or asymmetrical chamfer. ,_
Simply breaking an edge requires no special
instructions: Set the plane's cutting depth for a light
cut; then make a few passes holding the plane at
about a 450 angle to one face of the workpiece.
For wide, tapered, or asymmetrical chamfers, draw
layout lines, as shown at right; then gradually plane Draw layout lines to define the limits of the chamfer on a table leg. As you plane,
down to the lines. adjust the angle of the tool on the table leg as needed to meet the lines.

-- - - -~-~--- ---
About our product tests
We test hundreds of tools and accessorieseach year,but only those
that earn at least three stars for performance make the final cut and
appear in this section. Go to toolreviews.woodmagazine.com for
reviews of all the products tested, including those that don't make
the cut. Pricesshown are current at the time of article production
and do not-~ include shipping, where applicable.
WISE BUYS: Jack planes

Named for its "jack-of-all-trades" versatility, a jack plane works great for both flattening and smoothing the faces and edges of a
workpiece. And its momentum-making mass means you can hog away material without wearing out your arms. WOOD" project
builders Kevin Boyle and John Olson tested eight jack planes over several months, and they recommend these four models.
Best for end grain Best bang for the buck

Stanley Sweetheart no. 62 low-angle, $160 WoodRiver no. 5 (150875), $170
800-279-4441, rockler.com 800-225-1153, woodcraft.com
The low bed angle on this plane helps it cut as great This is the Chevy pickup truck of jack planes:
on end grain-something a standard-angle jack a midpriced, no-frills performer that gets the
can't do as well-as on edge and face grain. And job done. Out of the box, the blade and sole
if you need to plane tricky figured wood, you can needed flattening, but worked great after
increase the cutting angle-normally at 42°-sim- that. The carbon-steel blade dulled
ply by reshaping the bevel-up blade angle 5-10 0
quickest of those we tested, but
more. Plus, you can close up the mouth opening to sharpened easily. The Bailey-type
take finer shavings and eliminate blade adjuster proved easy to use
tear-out. Our model's sole needed for setting the cutting depth,
flattening, but once and you can close up the
done it performed mouth by moving the
nicely. And we frog forward, but it's not
didn't care for its as easy as a movable toe
thick, wide tote; that slides front to
we'd prefer a back. The bubinga
classic Stanley handles are a
design. nice touch.
Best if you dread sharpening Most likely to hold its value

Veritas no. 514W (05P24.71), $242 Lie-Nielsen no. 5, $325
800-871-8158,leevalley.com 800-327-2520,lie-nielsen.com
No. 5Yl jacks typically are shorter and narrower than a standard Based on the classic Stanley designs from a century ago and built
no. 5, but this innovative model maintains the 2" in Maine, this jack feels comfortable in your hands and
blade width. So it has the mass and feel of a no. 5, proves easy to use right out of the box: The
but with better balance. And the proprietary A2-steel blade takes longer to sharpen than
PM-Vll-steel blade held a sharp edge longer others, but holds an edge longer than
than any other in our test. To close up the carbon-steel blades. You can buy extra frogs
mouth for tighter shavings, you move ($75-$85 each) for this plane to quickly
the entire blade-frog-and-handle assembly change the cutting angle using the same
forward and back. (The included blade; the blade and frogs are also
instructions make this easy.) interchangeable with Lie-Nielsen's
And although the Norris no. 4 smoothing plane.
blade-depth adjuster Plus, these tools have
proved fussy at times, proved to hold their
setscrews near the mouth resale value should
restrict side-to-side blade you later choose to
movement. sell yours.
woodmagazine.com 57
All about
wood
chisels
Author and teacher Tim Peters
shows you which ones you
need, how to use them correctly,
and how to keep them sharp.

t the root of all woodworking lies a
A simple notion: A sharp tool can

quickly and effectively change the
shape of wood. And for several millennia,
CHISEL ANATOMY
Disassembled, you can see how socket and
tang chisels fit together.
the wood chisel has served as one of the
fundamental tools for cutting and shaping
wood. In the classes I teach, we use chisels
for chopping mortises, paring tenons,
cutting dovetails, carving reliefs, shaping
table and chair legs, and so on. In this
article, I'll focus on getting more from the
most common furniture-making chisels.
Tang
First, understand the At the top of the handle where you

blade/handle connections strike it, manufacturers often place a
Chisels come in primarily two styles: metal ring, known as a ferrule, or a leather
socket chisels and tang-type chisels, as washer to protect the wood end grain
shown below right. That means the handle from splintering. Over time, the wood
either slips into a tapered hollow socket, mushrooms over the ferrule, further
or it slips over a tapered square or round protecting the integrity of the handle
tang milled into the blade. One big differ- shaft. Socket chisels typically cost about
ence between the two is the relative one-and-a-half times the price of tang
strength of the blade-to-handle connec- chisels because they're more complex
tion. Both types can be struck with a to manufacture.
mallet, but socket chisels prove best for Tang chisels, on the other hand, feature
heavy chopping and prying. That's 2"- to 3"-10ng tangs, typically with four
because the force of mallet blows disperses .sides that taper to a point. The tang almost
around the rim of the socket and evenly always has a bolster (or shoulder) for the
down the shank to the cutting. edge. The handle to seat against and absorb mallet
strikes. Many manufacturers reinforce Tim Peters, master furnituremaker
more you strike the chisel, the tighter its
and professed hand-tool junkie,
handle fits in the socket. This style of this area with a metal ring at the neck of
teaches courses in cabinetmaking, as
chisel also resists bending and fracturing the handle to resist splitting. The handle well as furniture building and design
in situations, such as mortising, where top on most of these chisels features metal in the construction technology and
the tool might be subjected to prying rings, leather washers, or metal striking art programs at Orange Coast
forces or twisting as you retract the cut- caps, meant to absorb and distribute College in Costa Mesa, California.
ting edge from a tight joint. mallet blows.
Bench chisels. Buy these first making shallow hinge mortises, shown on page 62.) If you prefer professional-quality
Fortunately, most woodworkers don't need page 61, because the short lengths give me chisels made with harder steel, see "Chisel
dozens of specialized chisels. You can do greater control. Sources" on the next page.
the vast majority of your work with just a For most home woodworkers, I suggest
few common bench chisels. Bench chisels buying a set of bench chisels with at least
have 4"- to 6"-10ng blades with flat backs three or four different widths, from 1,4"
and beveled edges, as shown at right. The to 1". You can do great work with a set
beveled edges make it easier to reach into of Stanley or Irwin chisels (available at
tight spaces, such as narrow mortises or home centers and hardware stores), as
dovetail sockets. The cutting edge on a long as you keep them sharp. These
bench chisel typically has a 25° bevel, steep dull quicker than
enough to resist wear, but too acute for chisels made of
heavy prying. harder steel, so
Butt chisels are similar to bench chisels, be prepared
but have shorter blades and handles. These to sharpen
chisels work great for tasks where a longer more often.
chisel proves obtrusive or unwieldy, as (Learn about
with joinery on small projects such as jew- sharpening
elry boxes or toys. I use butt chisels when techniques on
woodmagazine.com 59
Tools
PARING CHISEL
Paring chisels handle
fine-cutting tasks steeply beveled edges, narrow necks (the edge. This provides a sharper edge for cut-
These chisels should never be struck with transition area between blade and handle), ting precision, but the trade-off is an edge
mallets. Most paring chisels use tang-style and wooden handles with rounded ends, that is not as durable, particularly when
construction, although any really sharp made to seat comfortably in your palm. paring harder woods such as white oak,
chisel could be employed to do some par- Chisels used exclusively for paring hard maple, or many exotics.
ing, slicing off thin layers of wood as you oftentimes have small-diameter tangs, but Buy paring chisels if your work includes
fine-tune a joint. Chisels specifically don't have washers, rings, or caps. Paring joinery that requires fine-tuning such as
designed for paring usually have slender, cuts should be made only with hand pres- dovetails, box joints, or mortise and ten-
6"- to 8"-long blades used for reaching deep sure pushing the tool. You'll find a more ons. When you are ready, buy a Yz" and I"
into joints. Paring chisels typically have acute bevel angle, 15°to 20°, on the cutting pair; add sizes as your needs grow.
Opt for specialty chisels well for shaving off proud wood plugs or to trim away material. I use them for
only when needed· dowels and for removing glue squeeze-out paring dovetail sockets, shown next page,
You might find these specialized chisels from inside corners. because I can hold the back flat against a
handy for your home shop: • Skew chisels. Another form of paring surface and ensure a true cut. It's best to
• Mortising chisels. Whether you're a chisel, the angled cutting edges on these get right- and left-facing models for use on
hand-tool traditionalist or you just don't work great for reaching into difficult areas opposing sides of a socket.
want to fuss with setting up a mortiser or
drill press, you can, with a little practice,
chop mortises by hand with these heavy-
duty chisels. Beefy, tapered blades separate MORTISING
these chisels from others. The back of the CHISEL
blade is often slightly wider than the front
to keep it from getting wedged, or bruising
the side walls of a mortise. And the cutting
edge, with a bevel in the 30° to 40° range, CORNER CHISEL
withstands hard mallet blows without
breaking down the tip.
You can also pry with one of these chis- CRANK-NECK CHISEL
els after sinking the tip into the wood to
break loose the chips, as shown below right.
Mortising chisels connect to the handles,
which are usually elliptical in shape, with
large, stout tangs and substantial bolsters
for the handles to rest against.
• Corner chisels. This type proves handy
for squaring up corners of rabbets, dadoes,
STEP ONE
grooves, and mortises when struck by a Cut triangle to
mallet. So if you don't have a dedicated bottom of mortise.
mortiser or mortising chisel, you can drill STEP THREE
out most of the waste at the drill press, and Pare ends of
mortise to
then clean up the corners with one of final dimension.
these. The same goes for stopped chan-
nels made with a router. •
• Crank-neck chisels. Marrying the best
features of a hand plane and a paring
chisel, a .crank-neck slices away material
while you rest the chisel blade flat on
the workpiece. You can grip the bent
handle comfortably without scraping
your knuckles on the wood. These work
Chisel Sources
Tools For Working Wood: 800-426-4613,
toolsforworkingwood.com
Traditional Woodworker: 800-509-0081,
traditionalwoodworker.com To hand-cut a mortise with a mortising chisel, begin by chopping out chips between your
Garrett Wade: 800-221-2942,garrettwade.com scribed lines, leaving Y,6" at the ends. Move the chisel about Va"at a time, and strike it with a
Lie-Nielsen: 800-327-2520,lie-nielsen.com mallet. Then, pry out the chips. Make a triangular pattern to the desired depth; then, begin
Japan Woodworker: 800-537-7820,japanwoodworker.com back-cutting the rest to match that depth. Finish by cutting away the remaining Y,6" at each end.

Consider Japanese chisels
for durable performance
The Western-style chisels I've shown you
up to now originated in Europe and are Tapered
perfectly adequate for most work. But in ferrule
my opinion, Japanese chisels have no them the benefit of both
equal. Here's why: basic types of chisel
Japanese chisels feature two layers of construction, combining
steel forged together into the blade: a the strength and rigidity
harder, thin layer laminated behind a of a socket fit with the
softer, thick front. As a result, the harder easier manufacturing of a longer, larger
portion holds its sharp cutting edge tang. A tapered ferrule at the union of Before using a new Japanese chisel, you
longer than most Western-style chisels. the handle and blade serves as the socket have to fit and seat the tapered ring at .
Japanese chisel manufacturers also grind for the handle's mating wood end, while the top of the handle. The chisel's
a hollow back onto the blade, as shown also keeping the handle from splitting instructions explain how to do this.
at right, so you have less material to during mallet strikes or prying. As a basic set, I recommend chisels
remove when lapping the back flat. Because Japanese chisels are handmade with blades 3, 6, 9, 12, and 15 millimeters
At the handle end, these chisels use a from high-quality materials, they can cost wide. This should be adequate for most
hybrid s.ocket-and-tang fit that gives $100 or more apiece. cabinet- and furnituremaking joinery.
. . . ---"...,-----""''''!\
Chisel out a perfect hinge mortise in 3 easy steps
D
Begin by making a series of angled "chops," Hold the chisel parallel to the edge of the Clean up the bottom and perimeter walls
staying Y16" from the ends and back. workpiece and pare away the chips. with light cuts until the hinge fits snugly.
Hand-cut half-blind dovetails with only a pair of chisels and a mallet
01 _ D _
Remove the socket waste with a bench chisel, After making a vertical cut, counter with a Pare down the angled side walls to the
staying Y,6" from the scribed sides and back. horizontal cut to remove the chip. bottom of the sockets.
Guide
board
n... ~t# ;..c

-
Using a clamped-on guide board, pare away Finally, use a skew chisel to clean out the Now you have two perfect pin sockets for a
the final material from the back walls. corners to finish the sockets. project part, such as an inset drawer front.

Tools
Yourchisels will only be as good as your sharpening makes them

I see several hundred new students in my
classroom each year, all eager to start
chopping wood. But there's a little tough
love waiting for them: I provide students
with the least expensive home-center chis-
els available for two reasons. First, any
accidental damage is no big deal because
the chisels cost only a few bucks to replace.
Second, and most important, these chisels
have relatively soft steel blades, so they
dull quickly. Why's that a good thing?
Because frequent sharpening ingrains in
their minds and muscle memories correct
sharpening techniques, which are the
same regardless of the chisel quality. And
having a sharp chisel always trumps hav-
ing an expensive chisel.
No matter what technique or mecha-
nism you use to sharpen your chisels, get
comfortable using it, and return to it Slide the chisel forward and back on the wet The texture of common butcher paper
regularly to touch up your tools. I favor sharpening stone. Latex gloves keep the produces a mirror finish and a cutting edge
sharpening freehand on water stones- soupy swarf from dirtying your hands. that's beyond scary-sharp.
years of sharpening experience mean I
don't need fancy machines or gadgets. And, 36- and 60-grit wheels because I want to Although it's not necessary, I like to add
if treated properly, the stones last for years. shape the steel quickly and avoid heating a secondary microbevel, about 10 steeper
But if you prefer to use a honing guide to up the tools. Overheating, usually indi- than the main bevel, for an even finer
hold your chisels at the correct bevel angle, cated by a blue hue of the steel, causes the edge. To do this, after you've finished the
or maybe a motorized sharpener, by all cutting edge to dull more quickly. And I first bevel, go back to an 8,OOO-gritstone
means do it. They all work if you take the prefer a hollow-ground bevel because it's . or I,OOO-grit sandpaper, raise the chisel
time to become familiar with them. easier and quicker to sharpen and touch slightly off the bevel so only the tip
Always start out a new-or, dare I say it, up on the stones. (With less steel dragging touches, and gently give it a few strokes. If
an abused-chisel with a hollow grind on across the stone, there's less friction, and you anticipate doing a lot of heavy chop-
a benchtop grinder, as shown below. I use the bevel's two-point contact helps main- ping or working with a particularly hard
tain correct angle orientation on the face or abrasive timber, such as white oak or
of the sharpening stone.) silica-rich teak, add a secondary bevel. The
After making the hollow grind, lap the more obtuse microbevel dramatically
back face of the chisel to make it perfectly increases the edge-holding durability of
flat, as shown above. You only need to do the chisel in these situations.
this on the bottom 2 inches. Some chisel The more you sharpen, the more you
work doesn't require a flat back, but other dish out the stones. Keeping the stones flat
tasks, such as mortising and paring, do; so guarantees your chisels' edges remain flat.
just get in the habit of lapping. Start with a Use a flattening stone to remove the high
coarse stone (800 grit) and repeat on sev- spots. I probably do this more than I need
eral finer-grit stones. This only needs to be to, but I'm in the habit of flattening every
done again if the back goes out of flat, or if stone before I sharpen with it. •
you have used up the flat portion of the
Holding your chisel against the tool rest for
leverage, grind a recess on the bevel that's
chisel blade through sharpening.
Written by Tim Peters with Bob Hunter
perpendicular to the blade sides. Next, sharpen the cutting edge on stones Illustration: Tim Cahill
or sandpaper grits. Begin with a coarse grit - ~~~ - ~ ~ . -
(800 water stone, gray Arkansas oil stone, or More Resources

1~0 sandpaper) to define the bevel, creating
FREE VIDEO
two narrow, flat points of contact above and
~ Watch a FREEvideo of sharpening with sandpaper
below the scooped-out hollow grind (left).
at woodmagazine.com/sharpenvid.
Progress through several finer grits, up to
RELATED REVIEW
15,000 stone or 1,000 sandpaper, to hone
~ For a small fee, download a review of motorized
the bevel to a razor-sharp edge. I go a step
sharpeners and handheld honing guides at
further and burnish the bevel on brown woodmagazine.com/sharpeners.
butcher paper or grocery bags.

Our favorite
handtools We love power tools, but many times a hand tool does
the job better and quicker, and always with less
noise and dust-ideal for small shops. Here are
eight "unplugged" tools that seldom
leave our workbenches.
5" Pocket Saw

Cady Tools, $125 durable blade is thicker than most small
cadytools.blogspot.com saws, with 16 teeth per
I keep this mini handsaw nearby for cut- inch, and a folded
ting small project parts that would be steel back for rigidity
impractical or even dangerous to cut It makes quick work
with a power saw. In spite of its stubby of rips and crosscuts
length, the handmade Pocket Saw has a in small workpieces.
full-size, quartersawn hard-maple handle -John Olson,
that feels comfortable in, my hand. Its Design Editor
Folding wood rule

New equivalent: lufkin X46, $14
Amazon.com
My favorite tool was also my kids' favorite:

an old 6' Starrett rule, now no longer
made. It saw as much action over the years
in sword fights and light-saber battles as it
did in the shop. (Okay, so they broke a few,
but I quickly replaced them because I
couldn't imagine working without one.)
It's spot-on accurate, the brass extension
reaches into tight
spots,and it's perfect
for checking carcase
glue-ups for square.
-Jim Heavey,
contributing craftsman
woodmagazlne.com
Tools
1"Crank-neck chisel
Traditional Woodworker, no. 225-2100,$63
800-509-0081, traditionalwoodworker.com
I find this paring chisel useful for flush-
trimming wood plugs, shaving tenon
cheeks, and-I'm sure this will make a few
purists grumpy-slicing glue squeeze-out
off a joint. Its bent neck lets you rest the
back of the chisel on the workpiece while
maintaining a good
grip on. the handle,
and it reaches places
that regular bench and
paring chisels just can't. .
-Kevin Boyle,
Senior Design Editor
Stanley no', 140 rabbeting block plane

(No longer in production; look for used models user. That speaks volumes about its useful-
at auctions and online.)
New equivalent: Lie- ness and durability. The Stanley no. 140
Nielsen no. 1-60-1-2R-N,$175 .
800-327-2520,lie-nielsen.com functions as two planes: a low-angle block
plane (far left) that slices end grain as
My grandfather bought this plane in the cleanly as edge grain and; when you
early 1900s, and I'm its third-generation remove the side fence (near left), a rabbeting
plane that cleans up tenons and rabbets.
Its blade cuts at a skewed angle, greatly
reducing tear-out.
-Erv Roberts,
a longtime woodworker
and WOOD" magazine
contributor for more than
15 years
Japanese handsaw
Rockier,no. 26513,$37
800-279-4441, rockler.com
I grew up using Western-style saws for
hand work. But the first time I tried a
Japanese handsaw, I couldn't believe the
difference. Like all Japanese saws, this
general-purpose model cuts on the pull
stroke rather than the Western-style push,
so it's easier to start a cut, and it tracks
straighter. Its thin blade flexes slightly for
making flush cuts, and it leaves no errant
scratches on the wood because the teeth
have no set. Still, the blade is stiff enough
to hold true for joinery cuts. I could
probably never go
back to the Western
saws now gathering
dust on my shelves.
-Lucas Peters,
Digital Content Manager
64
No. 5% jack plane 6" dial caliper
Lie-Nielsen, no. 1-5-1-2, $375 Amazon.com, no. MTDCF-06, $41
800-327-2520,lie-nielsen.com cumbersome-making less strain for me Whether checking the thickness of a tenon,
For years, I used a no. 4 smoothing plane in the long run-especially in figured or the depth of a mortise, the spacing of box
and no. 5 jack plane and got along fine. knotty wood. And if you prefer to buy a joints, or the diameter of a counterbore, this
But then I tried a no. 5Yz jack plane and used Stanley model (made until the late -, handy caliper delivers precision as no mea-
was immediately hooked. Now it's my 1950s) online or at suring tape or rule can. The large dial's 11;4"
zo-to bench plane, 'seeing action on almost auction, rest com- graduations make it easy to read, and when
every project I build. Although about the fortably knowing· I'm feeling really picky, the inner dial pro-
same length as a typical no. 5, this plane that you almost vides YlOO" increments. It also comes in
measures nearly Yz" wider and weighs can't find a bad one handy for setting up
about a pound and a half more. I like that (unless it's broken). machines, such as dial-
extra heft because it provides momentum -Bob Hunter, ing in router-bit and
to power through cuts without feeling ToolsEditor table saw-blade heights.
-Bob Saunders,
woodworking school owner
and teacher and WOOD
magazine contributor
Veritas apron plane

:...eeValley, no. 05P27.01, $89 needs fine-tuning. Its low angle shaves
300-871-8158,leevalley.com end grain as easily as edge grain, and the
:::have two standard-size block planes, in blade adjusts quickly
regular and low blade angles, but I always and holds an edge for
reach for this compact plane to do light a longtime .•
rrimmmg or shaping tasks. Veritas' apron -Matt Seiler,
:?iane perfectly combines size, weight, and custom furnituremaker
nimbleness, especially when I need to and WOOD magazine
zet in tight on a small project part that forum host
65
-
About our product tests
Shop-Proven P~oduds We test hundreds of tools and accessories each year, but only
those that earn at least three stars make the final cut and appear
in this section. Go to toolreviews.woodmagazine.com for
These woodworking wares passed our shop trials.
reviews of all the products tested, including those that don't
make the cut. Prices shown are current at the time of article
production and do not include shipping, where applicable.
Build a rock-solid workbench in no time
Kreg's Universal Bench system makes it fast and easy to build a
sturdy workbench, assembly table, finishing table, or tool stand. Just
bolt together a set of these 12-gauge, angled-steel legs and rails for a
rock-solid stand, and then screw on a top you make to suit your
needs. It's that simple.
The legs come in two adjustable heights: 15lA-21lA"and 29-35".
The rails come in 14", 20", 28", 44", and 64" lengths, giving you 15
possible footprints from 14x14" to 64x64". In addition to the pre-
drilled assembly holes, the legs and rails have holes for adding
shelves or enclosing the sides.
We made multiple stands for the WOOD· magazine shop and love
them. A 44x44" stand with a laminated MDF top doubles as a sec-
ondary workbench and tablesaw outfeed stand. A 28x44" bench
with short legs, locking 3" casters ($60 for a set of four, part no.
PRS3090), and %" sealed plywood top serves as an assembly and
finishing table and nests under the larger bench. We also made a
portable table with tall legs for finishing small projects. (No stoop-
ing for us tall guys!)
-Tested byKevin Boyle,
Senior Design Editor
Universal Benchsystem
Performance *****
Price Legs (set of 4) $60-80
Price Rails (set of 4) $20-80
Kreg Tool
800-447-8638; kregtool.com
Compact tablesaw cuts like bigger, pricier saws

I've been using a Bosch 4100 portable tablesaw for years with
great results, but the $500-plus price pushes it close to the cost of
a traditional contractor-style saw. Bosch's new GTSI031 provides
nearly the same performance as the 4100 in a smaller package-
and with a smaller price tag.
Bosch engineers cut the weight to 50 Ibs by building the saw
with a roll-cage-type frame rather than a closed cabinet. It's easy
to carry one-handed like a suitcase, even going up and down
stairs. But it's no toy. This saw's robust motor powered the
thin-kerf blade through 2"-thick red oak without bogging
down. The GTS1031 is accurate, compact, and solidly built,
and I found myself using the three-position riving knife and
blade guard because they're well-designed and effective. They're
easy to remove when necessary, too. Plus, all the accessories store
underneath the saw, keeping them protected during transport.
One sacrifice you have to make with this saw: The 18" maxi-
mum rip capacity measures 7" less than the 't100, meaning you
can't rip to the midpoint of sheet goods.
10" benchtop tablesaw (G1S1031)
-Tested by Dave Fish, Performance *****
a trim carpenter and cabinetmaker Price $399
Bosch Power Tools
877-267-2499; boschtools.com

The best of the best in jigsaws
If you need a jigsaw that makes spot-on perpendicular cuts, even
in thick woods and tight turns, then get the top-handle Bosch
]SS72EN. What makes this jigsaw so special? Two roller blade
guides surround the blade to keep it cutting perfectly straight
up and down. (Most other saws have only one guide, if any.) I
used this saw to cut sweeping and tight curves in multiple species
and thicknesses of solid wood and plywood, and the blade
never deflected from 90°. Impressive. That cuts down on time
(and abrasive) spent sanding edges with a spindle sander. In
fact, when used with Bosch's Extra-Clean For Wood jigsaw
blades, the]SS72EN delivered such clean edges, they needed only
a light hand-sanding.
I also appreciate the LED light that illuminates the cutline-
another first for jigsaws-making it easier to see and cut accurately.
Other great features on this premium saw: a tool-free adjustment
for tilting the footplate, tool-free blade ejection (so you don't grab
a hot blade), low Vibration, and a handy 13' rubber power cord with
a swiveling mounting boot to prevent kinking.
Buy it in a kit (JSS72EL) for $299, and you'll also get a sturdy
storage box, dust-collection attachment, blade shroud, and
hard-wearing steel shoe for the plastic-coated footplate. Bosch
also makes this saw in a barrel-grip version at the same prices
as the top handle.
-Tested by Bob Hunter,
Tools Editor
7.2-amp jigsaw (JS572EN)

Performance
*****
Price $239
Bosch
877-267-2499; boschtools.com
Vacuum gobbles dust and seals it away

It's easy to suck up dust from big, stationary machines using a powerful
collector, but not always so easy to capture the fine dust and debris
created by portable power tools, such as a sander, router, or circular saw.
DeWalt's DWV012 lO-gallon wet/dry shop vacuum solved that problem in
my shop. This vacuum has enough suction to keep up with those tools,
while capturing even the finest dust in the included prefiltering felt bag.
It also has HEPAfilters to trap dust particles as fine as .3 micron that escape
the bag-but even after sanding mahogany I couldn't find any sign of red
sanding dust on the white filters.
A tool-actuated switch turns the vac on and off with the tool, and the
motor runs so quietly, I couldn't hear it over the tool's noise. However,
every 30 seconds the built-in filter cleaner pulses, and that noise can be
annoying. Other .great features: variable suction, a 1j4"xlS' hose, easy-
rolling casters (lockable in the front), and a telescoping handle for
easy storage and transport.
-Tested by Craig Ruegsegger,

Deputy Editor
Tool-triggered shop vacuum (DWV012)
Performance * * * **
Price $529
DeWalt
800-433-9258; dewalt.com
woodmagazine.com 67
Projects
Go-anywhere
toolcaddy
Keep frequently used tools
organized, protected, and
within easy reach wherever
you go by rolling this compact -~
cart right up to your work area. \

"
\
Its drawers, shelves, top tray,
and doors create numerous
storage opportunities.
.~~~~~~\~-;----------~-
••
-~;S"'"~=---~~
Thanks to its large 6"-diameter wheels

and easy-adjust, fully retractable, locking
---- --------------
handle, moving the caddy is a cinch.
Note: For a natural wood look and void-free
I
nspiredby a rolling carry-on suitcase, The top of the tool caddy flips up and
like those used by airline travelers, the doors swing open to provide access to edges, we used Baltic birch plywood for our
this handy portable cabinet provides <, the items inside. Simple scrapwood hold- tool caddy, and applied a clear finish. As
on-the-go storage for tools and supplies. It ers keep everything in place while on a less expensive alternative, you can use
parks in a small area and serves as a storage the move, and removable drawers and type AC or BC plywood, particularly if you
cabinet in your shop. But when you pull up shelves accommodate tools and hard- plan to paint the unit. Also, because the
the retractable handle, you can move it ware. The photo above shows the unit thickness of plywood varies, you may need
around the shop or roll it wherever you with one drawer and shelf, but you can to slightly adjust the size of some parts and
need for fix-ups outside the shop. build it with two of each if you wish. the mating dadoes and rabbets.
DPARTSVIEW
1-1
.•
-----11 v2"----~o_l1 1-1 -------------o-il
17"
0>---------
--r-~I~J~I~I----~r-,i----~'--~I----l-~t
k \ \ '
'
I
,1%2"
3'.4", 'i
shank hole, countersunk
. id~ f ace
on,lnsl !
I'
27;8"
/~
L I=~\:::::::+==t=j=t=*==: I
t "l _t; :---+------;:)--l-------+---,~---------I----i
XI
3'.4" ~p.W' dad~es
'.4"deep
!
t.:4,~-~:--f--------[--r~:~__rJ·-----)T---'I ----t,-----ir--~
L I====ti====i====l===: '! I I Location of part@
rr \
~-£:::.\:!::::i'
! ! I 1 I 13'.4
3'.4" I
I! \
I %'" rabbet""r--
i
\
!
I I
I I
I I
I
L~==~c=~\====~!==~'c==='~~ I I '.4"deep
~ !/ i /
1 ~ II
I !
\
\ I
, I·, /' I
I
f
i
J@I!/
I D
\I I
\ r
;-f---.-.1--.-+-+-----(~-----:-t----------\---: +! ------t------'-
I
25Y2"
\ I ;: i+-----lL-f-----J-----------~-----)·-+·-j
!
II
\ i
: (I
I 'l'64' pilot hole I
! 7!i.'·deep
t
I,
!
I
! I
®
v ( 'I! /' i
Location of part
1\
! i \ \ I / \
~ (/ I / I
[F====F===:::;:j:=:/=/·:=l=:·:l=';:::::~:::.-::::::::~t
J (\
:'... l/;"h I 411,"
\ I
I \
'.4"
L /1( (' 2\ ~ l'r t \
V
i
1\
~
r. • '\ ~ I - 111
I I
Y2',r- f 1 " 1 " I ,
T Location of parteD 4
1--" ---l1 ~ BACK
(Outside face shown)
LEFT SIDE
(Inside face shown)
For the items needed to build this project,

seepage 73.
BRACE
Start with the case Cut the top divider (E) to size, making
1 Cut the sides (A), axle supports (B),

fixed shelves (C), and back (D) to the
5 sure the length matches the shoulder-
to-shoulder length of the shelves so the
sizes listed in the Materials List. case will assemble correctly. Then, with
2 Using a dado blade in your tablesaw,

cut seven W' dadoes W' deep across the
width of the sides (A) and a %" rabbet W'
the rabbeted edges of the top fixed shelf
facing up, glue and clamp the top divider
to it %" back from the front edge, where
deep along the back edge, where dimen- shown on Drawing 2. After the glue dries,
sioned on Drawing 1. Make sure they are assemble the case, as shown in Photo A.
mirror-image parts. Then, drill a Yz" hole
for the wheel axle through the sides, where Add the fenders and brace
dimensioned.
3 Bandsaw a YzxYz" notch for the axle in a

corner of the axle supports (B), where
1 To make the fenders (F), first cut four
pieces of 3f4" plywood to 5%><7". Lami-
nate the pieces together to form two
shown on Drawing 2. Then glue and clamp 1Yz"-thickworkpieces.
the supports to the sides (A),where shown,
with the notches aligned with the Yz"holes
in the sides.
2 Make two copies of the full-size
fender pattern on page 74. Using spray
adhesive, adhere one fender pattern to
4 using your tablesaw, cut W' rabbets

Yz"deep along the ends of the fixed
each laminated workpiece. Then bandsaw
slightly outside the outer radius on the Glue and clamp together the side assemblies
(A/B),fixed shelves (C, (IE), and back (0).
shelves (C), leaving %><W' tongues to fit the patterns. Now sand to the line using a Make sure the rabbeted edges of shelves (
dadoes in the sides (A). lOO-grit sanding drum. face down and shelf (IE face up.
woodmagazine.com 69
fmTOP PROFILE DETAIL
EJ EXPLODED VIEW
1" screw eye
%" hole 3;4"de
#10X13;4"F.H.;\~
machine screw \ 0
#10 stop nut~o
fs
U1
3;4" 0.0. aluminum pipe
•.
5Vi'long
ep
Va" round-overs
. __
!edges
%"0.0. .
Vi' round-over aluminum pipe 3;'''' hole, countersunk
25'A" long
#8 x 1Vi'
F.H.screw .' .
if%" round-overs
Va" round-over along

front and side edges
1"screw
25%" I
Vi'steel
/ push nut
6"-diam.
V2" round-overs wheel with a
J:::::
1 'I
Draw catch
~,.J 3
611 i Noting that the two fenders are mir- positioning them where indicated on
ror images of one another, use your Drawing 1. .
table-mounted router to shape a Yz"
round-over along a top outside edge of
each workpiece, where shown on the pat-
4 TO make the brace (G), cut two 2x4"
pieces from %". plywood. Laminate
the pieces together. After the glue
.•.. tern and Drawing 2, and as shown in dries, bandsaw the beveled edges of the
Photo B. Then bandsaw and sand the part, where dimensioned on Drawing 1,
inner radius of the fenders to shape. and sand smooth. Now glue and clamp
Remove the patterns using a solvent, the brace to the bottom fixed shelf (C)
such as lacquer thinner. Then glue and centered and flush with the front edge,
clamp the 'fenders to the sides (A), where shown on Drawing 2.
An easy (and doubly fast) way

to form drawer-pull openings
Here's how to quickly and simultaneously
bore precise radiused openings in a
pair of drawer fronts, such as those for
the tool caddy. Clamp the two fronts
together top edge to top edge, and mark
the centerpoint for the openings. Then
"place the clamped assembly on top of
a backer board on your drill-press table.
Using the appropriate size Forstner bit, a
hole saw, or a circle cutter for the desired
opening radius, bore a hole through the
Round over a radiused edge of each fender, fronts at the marked centerpoint, as
routing opposite top outside edges of the shown at right.
pieces to produce mirror-image parts.

·IIDRAWER v.~ CD
3
[
's
L~~
r------
======-~ ~
~
-~--------
83116" ~----,------------------------
16
15
116" ------=-~~,
__
~'
'I2"rabbet
1i~ i
<; R=l"~
_______ 3/S" deep %2" shank hole,
countersunk with a
I . ) 7/64' pilot hole
~ 16%" #8 x'l" %" deep
Slide into the dra~ F.H.screw
Drill mounting holes through the bottom (J)

1From Yz" plywood, cut the drawer sides
(H) and drawer fronts and backs (I) to
the sizes listed. From W' hardboard, cut the
Note: We used #4xW' flathead screws
to fasten the hinges to the Baltic birch
and into the drawer frame (HII) at the marked
locations. Then drive the screws.
drawer bottoms/shelves (J) to size. plywood case. If you are using type
2Cut Yz" rabbets %" deep along the ends

of the fronts and backs (I), where
AC or BC plywood, which may have
voids between the plies, use i"-long
SIDE SECTION VIEW II
shown on Drawing 3. Using a circle tern- screws to help ensure an adequate grip
plate or compass, mark a centered 1" radius in the plywood edges.
on each of the two fronts, where dimen-
sioned. Bandsaw and sand the openings to
Mount hinges on
the front edge
3 #10 x 1',4" F.H.
machine screw in a
shape. Or see the Shop Tip, opposite page, of the sides (A) and 3M' shank hole,
countersunk, with a
for a time-saving alternative. on the top edge of #10 stop nut
3Glue and clamp together the drawer

sides, fronts, and backs, and check for
square. After the glue dries, place the draw-
the back (D), where
dimensioned. Align
the hinges flush
%" 0.0. aluminum pipe
25V4'long
ers on your workbench with the radiused with the inside face
openings facedown. of the sides and back. \164' pilot hole
%" deep in part@
4Mark the locations for mounting holes

on the two drawer bottoms (J), where
shown. (We marked the locations on white
4Fasten the top
(K) to the hinges,
placing the top flush i
%2" shank hole,
countersunk #8x 1'12"
tape so we could easily see them.) Then with the back of the F.H.screw
position a bottom on each drawer, flush case and centered
with the outside faces of the front and back side-to-side with a Yz"
and centered end-to-end with a %z" over- overhang. Next at- 14"!
D
hang on the sides, where shown. Clamp tach the doors (L) to
L
the bottom to the drawer. Now secure it in the hinges with the
place, as shown in Photo C. doors flush with the
#8 x 1V4'
case sides and a Va" F.H.screw
Top it off, and add the doors gap between the top
1
Cut the top (K) and doors (L) to size. edge of the doors
Using your table-mounted router, rout and the top, where
a Va" round-over along the bottom front shown on Drawing 4.
and side edges of the top, where shown on For an easy way to , I
Drawing 2a. Switch to a Yz" round-over bit, hold parts in posi- %2" shank hole,
countersunk with a
and rout the top edges. Now rout a Yz" tion while you mark 7/64' pilot hole 1" deep
round-over along the long outer edge of the hinge mounting- 1 i
each door on its outside face, where shown hole locations, see c
on Drawing 2. the Shop Tip on
2
Refit your router with a %" rabbeting the next page. Now
bit. Then rout a %" rabbet %" deep along mount draw catches
the long inner edge of each door, cutting on the doors, where
one door on the outside face and the other dimensioned, using
on the inside face, where shown, so the the screws supplied
rabbets overlap when the doors close. with the hardware.
woodmagazine.com 71
Time for the handle
From ¥I" plywood, cut four 2%x9"
1 pieces-two for the pipe supports (M)
and two for the pipe clamp (N). Laminate
the two pieces for the pipe clamp together
to form a 1Yz"-thickworkpiece.
2 Photocopy the pipe supports/pipe

clamp half-pattern (page 74) at 200
percent to make three full-size patterns,
and spray-adhere them to the three
workpieces. Using a ¥I" Forstner bit in your
drill press, bore holes through, one piece at
•
Usingstopblocks to precisely position the Jam together two '.4-20 hex nuts on the
a time, where shown on the pattern and as pipe supports (M) and pipe clamp (N), bore hanger bolt. Driveit into the pipe clamp (N)
shown in Photo D. %" holes through each part at the marked by turning the nuts with a 1\6" wrench. Then
centerpoints on the pattern. remove the nuts.
3 Bandsaw and sand the pipe supports
and pipe clamp to the pattern line.
Head for the finish
Then rout W' round-overs along the top
and bottom edges, where shown. Now drill
a centered W hole only through the clamp.
7 Bandsaw and sand the handle sup-
ports to the pattern lines. Then, using
1 Remove the top (K),doors (L),and all of
your table-mounted router, rout lis" round- the hardware. Sand any areas that need
4 using your tablesaw, rip the pipe

clamp (N) along the cutline, where
overs along all of the edges. Now remove
the patterns from the handle supports,
it with 220-grit sandpaper. Apply a clear
finish, if you wish, or prime and paint the
shown. Next, using your drill press and a pipe supports, and pipe clamp. unit. (We applied three coats of water-based
From a 60"-long piece of ¥I" O.D.
twist bit, enlarge the W hole in the con-
toured half of the clamp to %". Then drill
the countersunk shank holes in the other
8 aluminum pipe, hacksaw one 5Yz"-
long piece and two 25W-Iong pieces. Slide
clear satin polyurethane to the caddy and
aluminum pipes, sanding to 320 grit
between coats.)
half, where shown. Position this half of
the clamp on the back (D), where dimen-
sioned on the back portion of Drawing 1.
the two long pipes through the holes
in the two pipe supports (M). Align one
support flush with the ends of the pipes.
2 From a W' steel rod 36"·long, hacksaw
a 22"-long piece for the wheel axle.
Insert the rod through the holes in the
Using the clamp shank holes as guides, Then drill mounting holes through the case sides (A),where shown on Drawing 2.
drill pilot holes in the back, where shown support and pipes, where shown on Draw- Then install the flat washers, wheels, and
on Drawings 1 and 4, and drive the screws. ings 2 and 4, and drive the screws. Do not push nuts on- the axle. (We used a 6"-
From W' plywood, cut four IV2X2Vz"
S pieces for the handle supports (0).
fasten the other support to the pipes.
g capture the 5Yz"-long pipe in the W
diameter lawnmower wheel with a steel
hub.) Use a hammer to drive the push nuts.
Laminate the pieces together to form two
1Yz"-thickpairs.
holes in the sides of the handle sup-
ports (0). Then position this assembly on 3 TO attach the handle assembly, drill
two '}3z" shank holes through the back
6 Referring to the parts-view drawing on

page 74, layout the handle supports (0)
on the workpieces. Then bore a ¥I" hole W
the ends of the long pipes, where shown.
Drill countersunk 0/16" holes through the
supports and pipes, where shown on Draw-
(D), where dimensioned on Drawing 1, for
mounting the upper pipe support (M).
Then countersink the holes on the inside
deep in each, where shown. Draw diagonals ing 2, and secure with machine screws and face of the back. Next, with the tool caddy
on the bottoms of the parts to find the stop nuts. For safety, trim the ends of the facedown on your workbench, install a
centers. Now bore a Whole 1" deep at each screws flush with the nuts using a hack- %x20x2" hanger bolt in the center Whole
marked center. saw, and smooth with a file. in the case-mounted part of the pipe clamp
-- - - ---~~- -~~- ---- - ---.... (N), as shown in Photo E. Now position the
handle assembly on the unit, as shown,
SHOP TIP and install the contoured half of the pipe
Double-faced tape makes clamp, a flat washer, and a four-arm knob
@ Double-faced tape
on the bolt.
hinge mounting easy applied to hinge leaf
Holding a cabinet door or case top in

exact position while marking the hinge
) 4 TOsecure the upper pipe support (M)
to the back (D), position the handle to
center the support over the shank holes in
mounting holes can be awkward and
frustrating. Here's a simple way to avoid the back, and tighten the four-arm knob.
the problem. Apply a piece of double- Then, from inside the case and using the
faced tape to the hinge leaves that attach c., shank holes as guides, drill pilot holes
to the door or top. Remove the tape . through the support and pipes, where
backing. Align the part and press it firmly shown on Drawing 4. Now drive the screws.
in place to adhere it to the tape. Open Remount the top (K) and doors (L).To
the door or top and mark the mounting
holes with an awl, as shown at right. S install a chain for holding the top
Remove the tape, and drill the holes.
o open, drill pilot holes for 1" screw eyes in
the left side (A) and top, where dimen-

Quick and easy ideas for mounting your tools and accessories
The tool caddy doors provide a convenient place to keep clearance around the items for easy handling. Also, keep in
frequently used tools accessible and organized. To hang your mind that because the fixed shelves (C) extend to the front of
tools and keep them secure when moving the caddy, you don't the case, you need to keep the tools at least 2%" below the top
need to spend a lot of money on fancy holders. Using small of the doors and 51;2" from the bottom. Ensure your tools and
pieces of scrapwood, dowels, and aluminum bar, you can make holders extend no more than 11;2" from the doors so they'll
attractive holders-in minutes that custom-fit your tools, such as clear the drawers and shelves when you close the doors.
the ones shown in the photos below. To allow for easy.rearranqernent of your tools later, omit glue
Start by removing the doors, placing them on your workbench, and simply screw the holders in place. If some of your tools
and laying out your tools on them. Make sure you leave enough have their own holders, you can mount them to the door too.
%" spacer
~-
YsxlW' )
aluminum bar
{ dl;-:""
To make a holder for tools that fit in round A piece of YaxlY2" aluminum bar (available at To create narrow slots, glue Ys" spacers
holes, glue two pieces of %" scrap together. hardware stores) and two \4x1Y2X1Y2" wood between strips of %" stock. A notched
Drill stopped holes slightly larger than the spacers make a handy holder for items that T-shaped holder made from %" stock keeps
bit-shank or tool diameters. have a spring clip. a sliding bevel securely in place. '
sioned on Drawing 2. Install the eyes. the inside of the doors, see the sidebar
Then, using needle nose pliers, open "Quick and easy ideas for mounting your
Materials List
the eyes, slip the ends of a 15" length of tools and accessories," above .•• FINISHED SIZE
twisted-link chain onto them, and close Part T W L Mati. Qty.
Written by Owen Duvall with Chuck Hedlund
the eyes. To secure the top when it is Project design: Kevin Hall with Kevin Boyle A sides %" llW' 25W' BB 2
down, drill holes in the top divider (E) and 'Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine B axle supports 11211
4" 10%" BB 2
the top, and install a 1" hook and screw C fixed shelves %11 lOW 17" BB 3
eye, where shown. D back %" 17" 25W' BB 1
6 Slide the 'drawers and shelves (J) in

place. Load the caddy with tools, hard-
ware, and supplies and you're ready to roll
E
F
top divider
fenders
%11
ly,"
2" 16W'
5\1,," 7"
BB
LBB
1
2
G brace ly," 2" 4" LBB 1
to your work site. For ways to hang tools on
H drawer sides Y,"' . 3Ys" 9" BB 4
drawer fronts
Y21l 3YB" 16%" BB 4
Cutting Diagram and backs
drawer bottoms/
E W' 9)4" 16'1'16" H 4
shelves
"
/0
I
'l'(''7'
-- 'l"'( v-'F'-l"'/-0-lL2~
, \J"J \ J, ' ~
a
/,,---- .. /,'------ /,'------ /,------- G
,,1".,
G
V2 x 24 x 30" Baltic birch plywood
K
L
top
doors
1'4tI 12'}\6"
%" 9YB"
19"
25%"
BB
BB
M pipe supports %" 2)4" 9" BB
© © © N pipe clamp 1y," 2W' 9" LBB 1
------------~•.. ------------~- -- ----- ------ ------
a handle supports lY," lY2" , 2y," LBB 2
'Parts initiallycut oversize.Seethe instructions.
Materials key: BB-Baltic birch plywood,

LBB-Iaminated Baltic birch plywood, H-hardboard.
Supplies: Spray adhesive, 2W' no-mortise hinges (6),
#4xY2"flathead screws (30),#8xl" flathead screws (30),
#8xll4" flathead screws (2),#8xl Y2"flathead screws (2),
---------
#10xlW flathead machine screws (2),#10 stop nuts (2),
draw catches (2),%" a.D. aluminum pipe 60" long, paint-
able wood putty, double-faced tape,
Y2"steel rod 36" long, 6"-diameter wheels with a
_~_,~ r'---- ---------
----
__ , Y2"-diameter hub (2),Y2"flat washers (2),Y2"steel push
---@---------------------------------- ---w~-------------
------ nuts (2),)4"-20x2" hanger bolt, )4-20 hex nuts (2),)4" flat
washer, four-arm knob with 14" insert, 1" screw eyes (2),
twisted-link chain 15" long, 1" hook and screw eye.
Bits and blade: Dado-blade set, YB"and Y2"round-over
% x 60 x 60" Baltic birch plywood 'J4x 24 x 48" Hardboard and %" rabbeting router bits, %" and 2" Forstner bits.
woodmagazine.com
73
Go-anywhere tool caddy
r - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - --=-:..::-...;-~-_-~__ ~-~-;;...;;:-;....:::--=-=--- - - - - - - - _ - - ,
®
---------
FENDER
FULL-SIZE PATTERN
(2 needed)
sv.."
~----+----+_------+----------7" •.i
I
'---------'- ----- - -------------------------------~---~-- I
Va"round-over
all edges
@@
PIPE SUPPORTS/PIPE CLAMP
Initially V4' hole in part@only, then enlarged to HALF-SIZE PATTERN
'Is" after separating part at the cutline (3 needed)
f---------'------''--'-----+-------9''--------\-----I
2%"
----------- ----- I '/.0"
------- ---------_ I
3/16' hole,
'/.o"hole
-. ---~-·---r- -·---y~'I-round-over \) I
countersunk
on outside face i (~) i j
'/.o"hole
, : '--along top and 2v.." l"deep
~~~::--+'
, : I
: : bottom edges +
-r--i' v.." hole in~ %," shank hole, -["['
HANDLE SUPPORT
No round-over alonq] i countersunk-/: i HALF-SIZE PATTERN
this edge j j part@only : in part@only j j (2 needed) (Inside face shown)
Photocopy the half-size patterns at 200 percent to make full-size patterns; verify dimensions on copies

Projects
Swing-out, fold-flat
tool stand
hen WOOD® magazine reader
W Dan Christen of Boise, Idaho,

put together his garage shop, he .
wanted permanent mounts for bench-
"
top tools that could easily move out of

the way when it came time to park the
cars inside. His swing-out tool stand
accomplishes both tasks.
To make one, first measure the width
of the tool base you want to mount,
divide in half, and subtract 2" to find the
depth (D) of the wall unit. Then, build
the frame of the stand and wall unit
using 2x4 stock ripped to 3" wide, Glue
. and screw %" plywood to the faces of the
tool stand and wall unit, sanding or
flush-trimming any overhanging edges.
Connect the wall unit and the tool stand
with strap hinges, attach the locking
caster, and mount the assembly to the
wall by screwing it into a stud.
(Ifyou're concerned about the tool stand
holding up to a heavier tool's weight, cut
#8 x 1 Vz" F.H. screw----------.
a wider wall-mounting plate to reach
#8 x 1 Vz" F.H. screw Tool-base ~ I
two studs.) Finish the stand by screwing width~ ~Tool.base
-< __- "
L~
.-.::j
:::: r- length
a plywood platform-sized to support 8" #8 x 1 Vz" F.H. screw
the tool you'll use with it-to the stand's ~
.1: ·-t~:----- x
top. Bolt the tool to the platform, and ~~~ #8 3" F.H. screw
------.-- . ~" : : STAND
you're set.• 't ::::
.,
f
" "
, - .. - -----"..:: ~ Tool-b~se length + 2"
""
11 ,I
" I'
II ,I
.ll. H-
'1 ..•..• ,1
WALL UNIT ... --- ".~ ~~:-.-----J...~"~
25" 2 ::::S":::: . "---~·:.~----"-l
More Resources
l '.- T'
l
I
Check out these other projects from the
Fold-flat series: ~".;~~~~~i'
. I
~ Fold-flat sheet-goods mover:

woodmagazine.com/FFsheetgoods
~ Fold-flat sawhorses:
"I
' •........
(0*),
..'
hinge _.J_
~
(0*)
~
'-:;:"'3"
Jl:J 2S
"
-p,
" .
woodmagazine.com/FFsawhorse #8 x 3" F.H. screw
into wall stud
~ Fold-flat work table:
woodmagazine.com/FFworktable 3"
#8 x l Vz" FH screw~ •• .> •
*See the instructions.
woodmagazine.com 75
Projects
Built-to-last Inexpensive and simple

to build, this workbench
workcenter and tool rack will provide

years of service.
wo easy-to-build components-a sturdy workbench and a
T versatile tool-storage wall complete with custom tool

racks-will make your workspace the envy of your friends.
The durable MDF benchtop provides a solid, stable worksurface,
and an ingenious set of blocks behind the rails turns an ordinary
one-hand clamp into a vise, as shown at right.
Laminate the bench's top

1 Cut the tops (A) from %" MDF, making them I" longer and
wider than specified in Drawing 1. From %" pine, cut sixteen
2J,qx34" blanks. These will later become the leg components (B, C,
D, E), but will first be used as clamping cauls to laminate the top.
2 Place one of the tops (A) on sawhorses and use a glue spreader
(a cardboard scrap or an old credit card) to evenly distribute
glue over its surface. Set the other top panel onto the first, clamp
Clamp a board in place against a bench dog (Shop Tip, page 80) for
easy face-planing, chiseling, or sanding. See page 79 for details on
the clamping blocks, mounted beneath the benchtop.
the panels together [Photo AJ, and allow to dry. Move quickly
%" hole
during this step so the glue doesn't set up before you get the
assembly clamped. --s=;; 22W~~
10" - _ _~ _
3'.4" -- __ ~--_ 64W'~
3 use a circular saw and straightedge to trim one edge of

the laminated top straight and smooth [Photo B];then, use the
---------=
3V2,J 4" 4"
- - _ _
same setup to rip the top to final width. Next, trim one end square
to the edge, and then cut the top to final length.
Build the legs and rails

1 From the pine blanks used earlier, cut each of the leg compo-
nents (B-E) to length [Drawing 2, Materials List] on the mitersaw.
Also, cut a spacer at least 4" long from a 5"-wide scrap piece.
2 Begin assembling a leg by covering the top (A)with kraft paper;

this keeps glue-ups from sticking to the top. Next, stand an inner
leg face (E) on edge on the paper. Glue and clamp an upper leg core
(C) and lower leg core (D) to the inner leg with a spacer between
them to create the mortise that will hold the end rails [Photo C].
Remove the spacer when the leg has been securely clamped, and
wipe away any glue squeeze-out with a damp rag. After about 30
minutes, the glue-up can be removed from the clamps and set aside.
DBENCHTOP
Repeat the process for the remaining legs. EXPLODED VIEW
3 When all leg assemblies (C/D/E) have dried, glue and clamp the
outside leg faces (B)to them, again using the top (A) to keep edges
and faces aligned. Be sure to make two mirrored pairs [Drawing 2].
CUT THE TOP TO ITS FINAL WIDTH •
Kraft paper .
covers fhe toP@.
Distribute clamping force across the tops (A) A straight board guides your circular saw Assembling the leg pieces (C, 0, E)on edge
by clamping pairs of leg blanks side by side when trimming the top (A).Clamp the board keeps one edge aligned. Clamp the parts to
and spaced evenly along the MDF panels. firmly to the top to prevent it from slipping. the top (A)and to each other.

PILOT HOLES PREVENT SPLITTING SCRIBING ENSURES ACCURACY
®
®
~-
m
To make the dowels easier to insert into the When drilling pilot holes through the end By allowing 1" extra length at each end of the
stretchers (H/I), slightly chamfer one end of rails, extend the drill bit as far as possible front/back aprons (K), you can set them in
each dowel with sandpaper. from the chuck while still holding it soldly. position and scribe their final dimensions.
EJBENCH END ASSEMBLY
4 cut the outer and inner end rails (F, G) to size [Drawing 2];
then, glue the rails together to make two assemblies.
E (outside face)
cut the outer and inner stretchers (H, I) to width, but 2"
S longer than specified [Drawing 3]. Glue and clamp these
parts together with the bottom edges flush, wiping away any
glue squeeze-out. Cut these stretchers to finished length when
dry. Discard the kraft paper.
6 use a 3,4"spade bit to drill two holes where shown in each

end of the stretchers (H/I) [Drawing 3]. Cut a W-diameter
hardwood dowel into eight 11!z" lengths and chamfer one end of
33"
each [Photo 0]. Apply glue in the holes and insert the dowels,
tapping them flush with a mallet. 29Y2"
Bring the bench together B B
1 Glue and clamp one end-rail assembly (F/G) into the mor-
tises of two leg assemblies (B-E) [Drawing 2]. Repeat for the
other end. -r
2 use 6Yz"-long spacer blocks to position the stretchers (H/I)
against the leg assemblies (B-G) and flush with the top edge
o 6Y2"
J
of the end rails (F/G) [Photo E]; clamp the stretchers in place.
Transfer the locations of the dowels installed in the stretchers
(H/I) onto the end rails. Drill YJi' pilot holes through the end
rails, centered on the dowels. The cross grain of the dowels gives
the screws better purchase than the end grain of the stretchers.
Next, drive 4Y2" structural wood screws [Source] through the Add the clamp blocks
pilot holes to secure the base assembly together.
3 Cut the end aprons mto size, and glue them to the ends of
the top (A)flush with the top face. After the glue dries, set
1 From 3,4"-thickhard maple, cut one 2¥16x14" blank for the
front clamp blocks (L) and a 1¥SxlO" blank for the end clamp
blocks (M). Note: Avoid using pine here because the slots you cut for the
the top assembly (AI]) on the base. clamps will wear out in softer woods. Rip a W' centered groove I"
4 cut the front/back aprons (K) to final width but 2" longer deep along one edge of both blanks [Drawing 4].
than shown [Drawing 3]. Rest them in place on the base,
scribe the ends [Photo F], and cut the front/back aprons to final
length. Glue the aprons to the top, and glue and screw the aprons
2 Lay out three front clamp blocks (L) on the wider blank and
two end clamp blocks (M) on the narrow one [Drawing 4].
Mark the location of the W' dado on each of the five blocks. Clamp
0, K) to each other and the base. "- an auxiliary fence to your tablesaw's miter gauge, line up a dado
Lay out the dog-hole locations on the top (A) [Drawing 1], layout line with the blade, and crosscut the dadoes with two or
S and use a 3,4" spade or Forstner bit to drill the holes. three passes. Repeat for the remaining blocks.
Quick Tip! Use two squares as visual guides to keep the drill perpen-
dicular as you drill [Photo G].
m
3 Cut the taper on each clamp block (L, M) with a jigsaw.
Then, crosscut the clamp blocks to final length.
Mark the W' hole locations on one end apron and the front
apron (K) [Drawing 3] and drill them with a spade bit. 4 cut the clamp block mounting cleats (N) to size [Drawing 4]
and glue and screw them to the clamp blocks (L, M).

_~ 9 ~ ~
To drill perpendicular bench-dog holes in the top (A), have a helper Center a clamp block (M/N) behind a hole in the upper end apron (J).
assist you in keeping the drill aligned with one square while you check the fit and alignment of a clamp in the block (Shop Tip, below);
watch the other. Then attach the block to the underside of the benchtop (A).
BBENCH FRAMEWORK
-:-~
~
<; IDCLAMP
BLOCKS
\/8" hole ;, ~
v.," dado 1" deep - <::
".
FliP the workbench upside

S down on sawhorses. Align each
clamp block (L/N, M/N) with a hole in
the front and end aprons a,
K) and check the
-,
fit of a clamp in each block. Secure each clamp
block with screws [Photo H]. , ::."-
.,,~
6 From %" pine, cut the shelf slats (0) to fit between the
outer stretchers (H) [Drawing 1]. Flip the bench back onto its
legs; then glue the slats to the inner stretchers (I).
4V2' structural wood screw
-- ..... -
SHOP TIP
Turn a bar clamp into a vise
Instead of a pricey vise, this bench uses shop-made
clamp blocks that hold typical one-hand ratcheting bar
clamps inserted through holes in the bench's front and
end aprons, shown at right.
-
After removing the fixed jaw, the bar fits into the
groove of the clamp block, and the bar's roll pin holds
the clamp in place once inserted, far right. These clamp ~
blocks are designed to work with Irwin SL300 or Roll pin
Jorgensen ISO3 expandable bar clamps. If you have a
different clamp, test its fit in the blocks and make
modifications to the grooves as needed, or install a By anchoring a ratcheting bar clamp's roll pin in the clamp block, you can then
'larger roll pin in the clamp bar. squeeze a workpiece between the moving jaw and a bench dog.
woodmagazine.com 79
SPACERSENSURE PROPERPLACEMENT ATTACH THE BRACE:ClEATS 1 #8 x 2" F.H. screw IS
:'----'" ••• WALL UNIT
Spacers
__:=-------. EXPLODED VIEW
- --------- --- 72"
j 45° bevels ~
: ..:-I 9" I---
Beveled 3%"-wide spacers ripped from Drive #8x3" screws through the
scrap cleat material consistently space each brace cleat (U) and the ends of
subsequent wall cleat (0) as you screw it to the wall cleats (0) and into the
the wall. underlying wall stud.
83"
Now build some tool storage .-.c:~8 x 2W'

From %" pine, cut to size the base wall support (P), wall cleats (Q),
1 shelf (R),shelf cleat (S),shelf braces (T). and brace cleats (U) [Materi-
als List and Drawing 5]. Tilt your tablesaw blade to 45° and rip bevels
.-- ---
~
"
F.H. screw
66"
#8
. ~:H.sc)rev.
x 2"
along the top edge of each wall cleat (Q) and along the bottom edge of
#8X2W'J
--- .
the shelf cleat (S). F.H. screw
2 Locate the studs in the wall where you want to attach your wall
unit, making sure each end lands on a stud. Then, place the base
wall support (P) flush against the floor and screw it to the studs; do not
drive screws at the ends yet, as these will be fastened when you install
the brace cleats (U).
3 pOSitiOnthe bottom edge of the first wall cleat (Q) 30" off the floor.
Check for level; then screw it to the studs. Again, do not drive screws at
the ends of the cleats. Then, attach the remaining wall cleats [Photo I].
---~
4 GIUethe shelf cleat (S)to the shelf (R)flush with the shelf's rear edge
[Drawing Sa]. After the glue dries, hang the shelf assembly on the
topmost wall cleat and screw the shelf cleat to the studs.
~
mSIDE SECTION
I;IOldthe brace cleats (U) flush with th.e ends of the wall cleats (Q) VIEW
S and screw through them to the wall studs [Photo J, Drawing 5].
Screw the shelf braces (T) to the brace cleats, and then drive screws
through the shelf (R) from above and into the shelf braces.
Create custom tool holders

Now that you've built the workbench and wall-hung tool rack, build
some holders for your tools. Use Drawings 6, 7, and 8 as the basis for .CLAMP RACK l......- -_--.......J~---- ~
constructing customized racks, using beveled cleats to hang them SIDE VIEW
from the mating wall cleats .••
- --
- - ------
45° bevel
SHOP TIP
To use a clamp in the clamp BENCH .L ~1Y2':--)
blocks as a bench vise, you need a DOG 1~v," - : _- y,"
~ -
bench dog, as shown on page 77. -1
Rather than buying _____ ~-_..., • %" hole,
bench dogs, consider
making your own, as
shown. If the dowels fit
too snugly in the dog
holes in the top (Al,
J
• /
O)~~;;
simply sand them NOTE:Ifusing pine (orany other softwood) for this clamp rack,
glue together four 5J4x4W' segments edge to edge, so the grain
until they slip in and
runs front to back for maximum strength. When dry,sand it smooth;
out easily. then drill¥S" holes atthe backofthe slots. Cutthe slots with a
jigsaw;then glue and screw together as shown.

B PLIERS RACK ElDRILL RACK
·2'14"
45° bevel
NOTE: Create the mortises for the pliers by first drilling Va"
holes, and then jigsawing them to rectangular shape. Adapt
the spacing to suit your tools.
Cutting Diagram
Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
® Part T W l MatI. Qty.
Bench
A* tops %" 22Y2" 64Y2" MPF 2
B outer leg faces %" 214" 29Y2" p 8
C upper leg cores %" 214" 21Y2" p 4

® D lower leg cores %" 214" 6Y2" p 4
E inner leg faces %" 2]411 33" P 4

% x 48 x 96" Medium-density fiberboard p
F outer end rails %" 5" 18" 2
[® ~J--l
% x 5V2 x 96" Pine (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed)
------r1I(i3i;3 © o G inner end rails
H* outer stretchers
%"
%"
5"
5"
22Y2"
63"
P
P
2
~ RgtII-I -----.11 ('QiT3® F1 1* inner stretchers %"

%11
414" 63" p 2
% X 5V2 x 96" Pine (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed) end aprons 5" 22Y2" P 2
t---=I K* front/back aprons %" 5" 66" P 2
% X 5V2 x 96" Pine (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed) L* front clamp blocks %" 20/,6" 4%" M 3
% x 5h x 72" Pine (3 bd, ft.) (2 needed)

oJ M* end clamp blocks
N clamp block cleats
%"
%"
1%"
2Y2"
4%"
4%"
M 2
a shelf slats %" 4Y2" 16Y2"
% X 5V2 x 72" Pine (3 bd, ft.) (2 needed)

OJ Wall Unit
14
P base wall support %" 3Y2" 66" P

Q wall cleats %" 3Y2" 66" P 9
% x 7"" x 96" Pine (53 bd.ft.) R shelf %11 9" 72" P
8u)¢
~@ I@
% x 9"" x 96" Pine (6.7 bd. ft.)
I@ I@ I@ I 5
T
U
shelf cleat
shelf braces
brace cleats
%"
%"
%"
214"
6%"
1Y2"
66"
83"
83"
P
P
P
2
~@ I@
% X 5V2 X 72" Pine (3 bd. ft.)
I@ I@ J 'Parts initiallycut oversize.Seethe instructions.
Materials key: MDF-medium-densityfiberboard,
% x 7"" x 96" Pine (53 bd. ft.) (2 needed)

1-&1 P-pine, M-maple.
Supplies: #8x1Y2" F.H.screws (10), #8x2" F.H.screws
(54), #8x2Y2" F.H.screws (33), #8x3" F.H.screws (20), %"
~ (p)(Q) dowel 36" long.
% X 3V2 x 72" Pine (2 bd. ft.) (10 needed) Written by Mike Berger Bits: %" spade bit, W' spade bit, 0/,6"brad-point bit.
Produced by Bob Hunter with
John Olson Source
~® Project design: John Olson Fasteners: FastenMaster4Y2"structural wood
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; screws, Lowe's, lowes.com, no. 194827, 12 per pack,
~bd.ft.)
~_L M Lorna Johnson driver bit included.
% x 3h x 24" Maple (.7 bd. ft.)
woodmagazine.com 81
, Projects
Space-saving double-duty ,
tablesaw workbench Park your tablesaw under this
combination workbench and
outfeed table to make greater
use of valuable floor. space in
your workshop.
ansmall workshop, the tablesaw may take
I up much of the floorspace. This multipur-

pose project allows you to put an assembly
bench in that same space. And when you need
to cut long material, roll the bench behind the
tablesaw for outfeed support.
. -~
Locking casters [Source, next page) mounted
on lever-operated pivots, raise and lower the
bench and allow for easy movement around
Use it as
an outfeed
~ •
"
•"
j;f
.
•
,. ,t(
,
•
r ,
Jf--
r ,
the shop. Levelers in the legs make it easy to
adjust the height to match your tablesaw for
outfeed use. When the plywood worksurface
becomes scarred, you can easiy renew it by
,--~""--.
.table ... flipping or replacing the panel.
No matter the type of tablesaw you own,
or how it's accessorized, you can customize
this project to fit your needs. The bench
shown left works with a contractor's saw equip
oped with a 30" fence [Drawing " next page].
Note: To position the workbench over your
tablesaw, remove the blade guard, rip fence,
and miter gauge. The bench dimensions allow
1" clearance at the top of the tablesaw and 1"
clearance at each side. There is no front-to-
back clearance: With the workbench positioned
over the tablesaw, the back fence rail touches
the inside of the upper back rail (F) [Drawing
4 L and the back of the front fence rail rests
against the front legs (C). -
Watch a FREEtwo-minute video of

Overall 'dimensions:
61Y:1" wide x 32%" deep x 390/16" high the Tablesaw Workbench in action
~ (casters in the down position) at woodmagazine.com/videos.
~~""-
"'81"'''' e-,
~~ I Big Ideas for Small Workshops 2014

r
Take some measurements
1 Measure your tablesaw, and enter the dimen-
sions in the empty brackets on Drawing 1. (Our
t~;~]h
1-
Q;;;;;~~~~~~~~~~~1F
sample tablesaw dimensions are shown in parenthe- Length: Measure from the back
sis.) If by chance your saw dimensions match those of the front fence rail to the'
of the sample tablesaw, stop here. Simply use- the back edge of the back
fence rail.
part dimensions for the sample tablesaw shown on
the Materials List, below right. Height: Measure from the
floor to the top of the
2 For dimensions in brackets larger or smaller
than the ones in parenthesis [Drawing 1], here's
how to size the workbench to your tablesaw. (Don't
saw table.
Width: Measure the maximum
dimension, including the saw
let the following lengthy explanation scare you off. table, wings, extensions,
The process is really quite simple.) and back fence rail.
• Subtract the smaller length dimension from the
larger one. Enter the difference in the L column D Note: Our tablesaw dimensions are shown in parenthesis.
under the CALCULATE heading on the Materials List
for parts A, D, E, H, L and K, and in the W column Step 1
EXAMPLE: 30W'-29W'=1 W'
for part N, preceded by a plus symbol (+) for a length
in brackets larger than the one in parenthesis, or a
minus symbol (-) for a length in brackets smaller
than the one in parenthesis.
• Subtract the smaller height dimension from the
larger one. Enter the difference in the L column
under the CALCULATE heading for part C, and in the Step4 Step 2 Step 3
W column for part E, preceded by a plus symbol for Cross out The length in 23%"+114"=25"
the obsolete brackets is larger
a height in brackets larger than the one in parenthe- than the length in
dimension.
sis, or a minus symbol for a height in brackets parenthesis.
smaller than the one in parenthesis.
• Subtract the smaller width dimension from the
larger one. Enter the difference in the L column Materials List
FINISHED SIZE: SAMPLE TABLESAW CALCULATE YOUR TABLESAW
under the CALCULATE heading for parts F, G, I, and
. . ..
••
- ••
Base T W L W L W L Mati. Qty.
N, preceded by a plus symbol for a width in brackets
larger than the one in parenthesis, or a minus sym-
bol for a width in brackets smaller than the one in
parenthesis. C* legs
3tt
3"
l'a"
3"
- M
LP
2
• Divide the width dimension difference deter-

mined in the previous step by four. Record the
• end rails 1W' 3" 29\1,," P 4
end panels JAil

23" 24" BP
dividend in the L column under the CALCULATE
- -
•• ••
back rails 3,4" 8" 60" BP 2
heading for parts Land M, preceded by a plus or
minus symbol, as directed above.
••
- ••
Top
• For a width dimension in brackets smaller than
the one in parenthesis, divide the dimension differ-
ence by two. Enter the dividend in the L column
under the CALCULATE heading for part B, preceded
front! back trim
top supports
JA"
'A"
2W'
13,1.,"
61Y:1' - M
M
2
3
by a minus symbol. (Do not make part B longer end cleats JAil 13,1.," 24" M 2
than the length listed for the sample tablesaw.) outer cleats 3,4" 13,1.," M
• Now add the numbers in the Wand L columns inner cleats 3j.t 13,1.," M 2
under the CALCULATE heading to, or subtract them
top panel 'A" 30" 60" BP
from, the Wand L dimensions under the SAMPLE
TABLESAW heading. Enter the new dimensions in 'Parts initiallycutoversize.Seethe instructions.
the Wand L columns under the YOURTABLESAW Materials key: LM-Iaminated maple, M-maple, LP-Iaminated pine, P-pine, BP-birch plywood.
heading. Then, to avoid confusion, cross out the Supplies: #8x1\4", #8x1 W', #8x2", #8x2Yl flathead screws; %" levelerswith T-nuts (4); Y4x1y,"
obsolete SAMPLE TABLESAW dimensions. hexhead bolts (6); Y4x2" hexhead bolts (24); 14"washers (52); 14" locknuts (32); Y4x2" eyebolts (2); W'
Now, for example, let's say your tablesaw measures washers (6); Ysx%x36" steel bar; Y>x36" schedule 40 steel pipe (2).
Blade and bits: Stack dado set; 14" round-over and 45° chamfer router bits.
30Vz" long, and you've entered this number on
Drawing 1 in the brackets under Length. In this case, Source
complete the row in the Materials List as shown Casters: 4" swivelcasterwithbrake,no.00K21.41,$14 each (4 required),LeeValleyTools,800-871-8158,
[Example, right center]. leevalley.com.
woodmagazine.com 83
V4" bolt
inserted-to .(
eep the pipe ~
from'Shifting
, ,
With 3%" of pipe protruding from one end of the pivot block (Al, drill With washers, a spacer, and the lever assembly in place, mark the pipe
holes through the block and pipe at the marked hole centers. length and lever attachment bolt-hole location.
Build the pivot assemblies

1 For the pivot blocks (A), cut four 11 1 V.x2"
-----<-~ "..'~ 1-",

%"-thick pieces of stock to the width ,,-----heXheadbolt EJPIVOT ASSEMBLY
and length listed. (We used maple. If ,/Yo"washer
c '23%" .•.
,
you've adjusted the length of part A, be : v.." hole V. x lY2" hexhead bolt
'i
sure to use the new length.) Then, making
Vsx% x 9" steel bar
two passes with a dado blade, cut centered
W
grooves in each piece [Drawings 2 and 2a]. Yo"hole, cent.ered
Clamp the pieces together in the arrange- . ; 3:' ~ ~8" I
ment shown, and verify that Yz" schedule V2"
~'
3V2" "~'
,
..x
~
40 steel pipe slips through the square hole. .~~ _' B V
Now glue and clamp the pieces, keeping i~~ i---------------_~i 27Y2" ~/~~" '--1"
the ends and edges flush. v.." washer \ \ . ,':":-. -_- i/V."hol~------j .' ~ ,- y.,
~
~ -.--. 9%" _ -
.--....:"V.-___. "
2 ~ay out the hole centers on the
bottom face of each pivot block (A)
[Drawing 2a]. (Use the caster plates to
v.." lock nut \ \
'----- ----------~---- ,-, ~-~ v.." stopped round-overs
7/8" washers ----, , ;
locate the caster-mounting holes.) Drill ,- 1'" ••
only the caster holes. v." hole ~ ••
~ lockinq swivel caster "'- v.." lock nut
3 Cut two levers (B)to size. Rout stopped
round-overs along the edges [Drawing
2]. Then, from a Vsx%x36" steel bar, cut *Sizedto accept Y2" schedule 40 pipe mPIVOT BLOCK
four 9"-long pieces .. Drill holes where 1------------ 23%"
shown. Now position a bar on each lever
with the bar protruding I" beyond the end L .
(
~"
r--- 6V<.
4
1 "
*7,18" groove 11.' deep
centered on inside face I 1"
6 V<.
.~ % " -,
,1
of the lever. Using the holes in the bar as

guides, mark hole positions on each lever.
1 V2"
0:
E:::::::::::::~~L: 0 0
E:::::::::::::-~1 1
: : 0 3 11
Also mark the hole center at the opposite --------------t::::::::::::::::~:r--------,----,0-------------------------------- ---t~:-_:-_-_:-t-_:-_::-:::_t------------ 1

end of each lever. Drill the holes on your Use the holes in a caster plate 4v.." ---.j
drill press. Bolt the bars to the levers. to locate the mounting holes.
4 Slide a 36"-long piece of Yz" schedule

40 steel pipe into each pivot block (A),
letting the pipe protrude 3Vs"at one end. S TO cut the pipes to finished length,
- first cut a 3"-long spacer from 2x4
and with the lever (B) and pivot block
aligned horizontally, mark the finished
Then drill the four 14" holes that go scrap. (The spacer represents the thickness length and the bolt-hole location [Photo
through both the pivot block and pipe, of a leg [C].) Drill a centered Vs" hole B]. Repeat with the other assembly. Now
where previously marked [Photo A]. To through the 3" dimension. Then slide two mark the pipes and pivot blocks for reas-
keep the pipe from shifting in the pivot washers and the spacer onto the long pro- sembly, remove the pipes, and cut them to
block, insert bolts into the holes as you truding pipe end of one pivot block (A) length. Using a V-block on your drill press,
drill them. assembly. Apply masking tape to the pipe, drill the bolt holes.

IJEND ASSEMBLY E!lLEVELER DETAIL
(back leg shown)
7116" hole
1W' deep
8" rabbet
3,4" deep
7/8" hole,
centered
Assemble the ends adjust it to cut 1Y2"deep. To establish one
1 For the legs (C), cut eight 2x4 pieces Y2"

longer than listed. Laminate them in
edge of the dadoes, position the fence 5"
from the right side of the blade, and attach
3 TO form the 8"-wide rabbets at the top
and bottom of the back legs (C) [Draw-
ings 3 and 3a], leave the tablesaw set up as
pairs to form four 3x3Y2"blanks. Then an extension to the miter gauge to back in the previous step, but lower the blade to
joint one edge smooth, rip the opposite the cuts. Then, using the fence as a stop, cut %" deep.
edge to width, and crosscut the legs to cut a dado at both ends on the 'inside face Then, making sure you will have mirror-
length. To avoid problems when building of each leg. Next, to establish the other image parts, cut a dado at both ends of the
projects from construction lumber, see the edge of the dadoes, reposition the fence 8" back face of each back leg. Now make
Shop Tip, below. from the left side of the blade. repeat cuts to remove the waste from the
2 TO form 3"-wide dadoes in the inside

faces of the legs (C) [Drawing 3], install
a %" dado blade in your tablesaw, and
Again using the fence as a stop, cut a
second dado at each end of all four legs.
Now make repeat cuts to remove the waste.
dadoes, extending the rabbets to the ends
of-the legs.
4 Drill a YS" hole for the pivot assembly

pipes through each leg lW from the
bottom [Drawing 3a]. Then, drill a Y16" hole
into the bottom end of each leg for the
How to keep construction leveler T-nut.
lumber straight
Construction lumber (2x4s, 2x6s, etc.)
has a high moisture content. When
5 Cut the end rails(D) to size. Glue and
clamp them into the leg (C) dadoes
with the rail ends flush with the front
brought into a shop, the lumber dries surface of the- front legs and the rab-
out, causing it to shrink and often beted surface of the back legs [Drawing 3].
twist. Of course, your project will go Check the assemblies for square. Then
together easier with straight lumber. drill holes, and drive the screws. (For #8
Here's a simple solution.
screws in softwood, drill ')-32"shank holes
First, select lumber that does not
include the center (pith) of the tree. and 0/32"pilot holes.)
Cut the parts to rough length as soon
as you bring the lumber home. Then
place the parts in a trash bag, as
and return them to the bag until you
are ready to assemble them. After 6 Cut the plywood end panels (E)to size.
Glue and clamp the panels to the
upper and lower end rails (D) with the top
building the project, the wood dries,
shown at right, and close it with a twist but now twisting of anyone part is of each panel flush with the top of the
tie. Remove the parts for machining, restrained by the other parts. upper rail [Drawing 3]. Drill screw holes,
and drive the screws ..
woodmagazine.com 85
· IIBASE
]4" hole 1" deep,

drilled after assembly
Complete the base

1 Cut the back rails (F) to size. Drill 1'8"
holes for the pipe in the lower rail
[Drawing 4]. Join the end assemblies
(C/D/E) with the back rails (F), and glue
and screw the rails in place [Drawing 4 and
Photo C]. Note: Locate the screw holes in ]4" washers
]4 x 2" eyebolts
the back rails (F) so they don't interfere with
the screws that fasten the end rails (D) to
the legs (C). To avoid interfering with the leg Position of ® with the casters up
levelers, use a 1W'-long screw at the lower
outside corners of the bottom back rail.
2 APPlY a finish to the pivot blocks

(A)and levers (B). (For an easy-to-apply
and easy-to-repair finish, we applied two
the pipe holes, and bolt the pipes in place
[Drawing 2]. Now slip a washer and a lever
(B) assembly onto each pipe, and bolt the
to the upper back rail at the locations of
the lever ends when the casters are in the
up position. Mark lines on the tape 1Yz"
coats of Minwax Antique Oil Finish.) levers in place [Drawing 4]. from the ends of the rail. Rotate the levers
Attach the casters to the pivot blocks
[Drawing 2]. 4 Adhere masking tape to the lower
back rail (F) at the location of the
so the casters are in the up position, and
drill 1"-deep holes through the rail and
3 Place the base upside down on the

floor, and slide the pipes through
lever (B) ends when the casters are in
the down position. Draw a line on the
into the legs (C).
Turn the base right side up. Cut the rail
the legs (C), washers, pivot block (A)
assemblies, and lower back rail (F) [Draw-
tape 1W' from the bottom edge of the rail.
Drill holes in the rail for the eyebolt
S stiffener (G) to size, and glue and
clamp it to the top edge of the lower back
ing 3]. Align the pivot block holes with lever pins [Drawing 4, Photo 0]. Apply tape rail (F) [Drawing 4].
CD
61_.__
Glue and clamp the back rails (F) into the end assembly leg (C) rabbets.
m
Using the hole in the lever (B) as a guide, align the drill bit with the
Check for square, drilrscrew holes, and drive the screws. marked line, and drill a lever-pin hole through the rail (F).

Add the top
1 Cut the end trim (H) and front and
back trim (I) to size. Set the back trim
aside. Clamp the end trim and front
gTOP
trim to the legs (C) with the top edge of

the trim protruding %" beyond the tops
of the legs [Drawing 5]. (Use a scrap of
W plywood for a gauge.) Drill screw holes
and drive the screws. (For driving #8 3116" chamfer
screws into hardwood,
drill 5/32" shank holes
#8x 2"
and ~64" pilot holes.) F.H. screw
2 Cut the top sup-

ports 0), end cleats
(
' -,.",
'''' " ,,,'
.i>:
(K), outer cleats (L),and --- ~'~ -, 2'V:"

3,.'" ~ 2
inner cleats (M) to size. '" ""
Then clamp the parts in . 30" " H
place with the top edges W ~;,,~.
below the top edges of the end
trim (H) and front trim (I), and with
. the top edges of the top supports flush
with the top edge of the upper back rail (F)
[Drawing 5]. Now drill screw holes and
drive the screws. Retrieve the back trim,
and clamp it to the upper back rail. Drill
screw holes, and drive the screws.
Cut the top eN) to size. Clamp it in
3 place, resting on the upper back rail
(F), top supports 0), and cleats (K, L, M). .Apply finish and hardware the holes in the upper back rail (F). Adjust
Drill screw holes, and drive the screws.
Rout a }'Ji' chamfer along the outer edges 1 Inspect the bench, and finish-sand,
where needed. Ease any sharp edges
the levelers so the bench height matches
your tablesaw height.
4
of the trim (H, I).
Position the workbench over your
tablesaw, 'and on the inside face of the 2
with a sanding block. Apply the finish.
Tap the T-nuts into the holes in the
bottoms of the legs (C), and screw in
2 TO position the bench over your
tablesaw, first remove the blade guard,
miter gauge, and rip fence from the table-
upper back rail (F), mark the location of the levelers. Insert eyebolts into the lever saw. Then withdraw the eyebolts from
any part of the tablesaw that protrudes (B) end holes, and secure them with wash- the holes in the upper back rail (F). Rotate
beyond the back fence rail and interferes ers and lock nuts [Drawing 4]. the levers (B) to the horizontal position
with the upper back "i-'ail.Then transfer the (casters down), and insert the eyebolts
niarks to the outside face of the upper Using the workbench into the holes.in the lower back rail (F).
back rail. Now layout a notch, adding IU
of clearance all around the obstruction. 1 To use the bench as a tablesaw outfeed
support, rotate the levers (B) to the
Now roll the bench into place, and depress
the caster locks with your foot.
Jigsaw and sand the notch.
Cutting Diagram
vertical position (casters up), and insert
the protruding ends of th~ eyebolts into 3 TO renew the worksurface, simply flip
or replace the 3;4/1 plywood top panel. •.
~ ~ ~ ~
[$-,---,~~=&ittt;:L4-® +-- -l,@
'Ax 5V2X 96" Maple (4 bd. ft.)
'Ax 7'.4
x 96" Maple (5.3
bd. ft.)
[~~~~~)~3V:~~X~12~0~"p~in~e~(~2~~4~)~~~~:~e~;~~~~)~~~~~~~cJ)~~~~~~d~~~8d~ ~ ~-~==I~-i-QDN-)------------'-=~=-~-'~-~-:~--:=--~=---~====~~I=~
BcE'
1'12
x 3'12
'---- '] Tc)~
x 96" Pine (2x4)
----3 '==_=---==-. ?_-- ---_~----~-
.,---------------~--- .----------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
mlD) -:=) (oj- AD) ~D) jjj ~~---------~ _~ ._.
1V2x 3'12
x 120" Pine (2x4) u-®-E----+------ ~-------
@®$ -- ~ --tftttlj :--·=:=:-:-----0 -.----===::::::::.-::::..::.::.: __.:.: ===:=:::::=

'Ax 5'12
x 96" Maple (4 bd,ft.) u----'-----:~®-~---~- :----.-_:- s-r-r-:-: .
Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund

Project design: Jeff Norris, Delta, B.C 'Ax 48 x 96" Birch plywood
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
woodmagazine.com 87
Flip-top, benchtop
router table
The pivoting top simplifies bit changes and adjustments.
i
hort on space, but long on wood- by cutting a 16Vsx96" strip from a sheet Cutting Diagram, page 92] and parts C-H
S working ambition? With room for of %" plywood, using your circular saw
even a 3-hp router, plenty of stor- <and a straightedge. (See More Resources
age for accessories, and easy access for for a video that shows how to safely
from the other, marking them with
their part letters and setting them aside.
GlUe and screw the right foot (C)
bit changes and router adjustments, this handle sheet goods.)
compact table fits your needs to a T. From this strip, cut a piece 2SW' long
2 [Drawing 1] to a leg (B). Set the
assembly aside. Cut the table aprons (I)
for the top (A) and set it aside. Cut the to size. Then, cut notches in the center
First, build a beefy base remaining piece in half and rip each leg for the table aprons. See the Shop
Because many of the parts in the half to 16" wide. Cut the legs (B) from Tip, next page, to learn how to cut the
1 base share a 16" dimension, start one half [Drawing 1; Materials List and notch precisely. ''

ml ~
m
Align one end of the upper drawer divider (F) Stack the lower drawer divider (G),on the
flush with a notch; then mark its width using center leg (B), aligning the edges. Use the
the opposite notch as a guide. notch as a guide to mark the divider's width.
-. "'.- - ~
SHOP TIP
No-slop tablesawn notches
Measuring and marking a project part using
a tape measure or steel rule can be
hit-or-miss, especially with undersized
plywood. Instead, use project parts, scrap
DEXPLODED VIEW
material, and direct measurement on the
cutting tools themselves to increase
accuracy. Then, follow these steps to
precisely cut the notches in the center leg
I
(B) to fit the table aprons (I).
, '.4 x 1 V,'
'.4" hole '~hexhead bolt
To set up for the notch's width, cut into

a scrap of your plywood. Raise the blade
until it just leaves splinters of veneer.
To set the notch depth, measure from the

fence to the outside edge of a tooth on
the saw blade.
Retrieve the upper drawer divider (F) Glue and clamp the upper drawer
3 and use the notches in the center leg
(B) to help mark the drawer divider's
4 divider (F) to the center leg (B),
aligning the bottom face of the divider
Using an auxiliary fence on your miter
width [Photo A]; then cut it. Next, mark with the top of the notches [Photo c]. gauge, cut the notch in repeated passes.
and cut the lower drawer divider (G) to After the glue dries, glue and clamp the The fence act~ as a stop for the final cut.
width as shown [Photo B]. lower drawer divider (G)as shown. ;to J
woodmagazine.com 89
A combo drill/countersink bit reduces the Glue, then clamp, the table aprons (I) into the To ensure the aprons (I) remain parallel along
bit changes necessary for drilling and notches and flush with the upper divider (F). their length, mark the top cleat (H) for cutting
countersinking for screws. Then glue and screw the left leg (B) in place. by holding it near the left leg assembly.
5Drill, glue, and screw the left foot

(D) to the drawer assembly(B/F/G)
[PhotoD].
the pivot cleats (E) and glue and clamp
them to the left and right legs (B).Sand
a Ys"round-over on the top outer edge of
drill them with a W' bit, as shown in
Photo I. Glue and clamp the top aprons
to the top (A).
Quick Tip! Several base parts can be at- the left pivot cleat with a sanding block. Clamp the top (A/K) to the base,
tached using glue and screws that get covered
up later. Screws speed assembly because Tackle the tabletop
4 centering the pivot hole on the end
of the pivot cleat (E). (Use the center ply
you don't have to wait for glue to dry be- Retrieve the top (A) and use a of the plywood as a gauge to line up the
fore moving on to the next step. 1straightedge to mark diagonal lines
Cut the drawer-box back 0) to size, from comer to comer, forming an X in
hole.) Then use the holes in the top
apron (K) as a guide for drilling a Y3z"
dry-fitting it to ensure the top edge aligns the center. Drill a 1lJi" hole centered on hole for the pivot screw and a W'hole for
with the notch in the center leg (B) the X using a holesaw [Photo G]. the right linchpin bolt [Drawing 1, Photo
before gluing and clamping it in place. Remove the subbase from the router J]. Add washers and snug the 14xl14" lag
6 RetrieVethe table aprons (I),and glue 2you intend to mount in the table
and clamp them in place [Photo E]. and use the holes in it to help mark the
screws in the pivot hole. Raise the top
and use the left linchpin hole as a guide
Glue and screw the remaining leg (B)in location of the mounting holes [Photo to drill a 14" hole for the linchpin bolt.
place. Afterthe glue dries, retrieve the top H]. Drill and countersink holes sized for
cleat (H). Mark it as shown [Photo F], and your router's mounting screws at the Finish the full-size fence
glue and clamp it in place [Drawing 1]. marked locations. Cut the fence face and base (L) to
7 Retrieve the right leg assembly (B/C).

Glue and screw it to the left leg 3Cut the top aprons (K) to size. Lay
out the locations of the three holes
1 size. Layout the identical radiused
cutouts [Drawing 3]. Then, use the
assembly (B/D/F-]) [Drawing 1]. Retrieve on one of the aprons [Drawing 2] and method in the Shop Tip, next page, to
EJTOPAPRON
I- 25"
-------------------------1- 1
r- W' hole _c W' hole

--®~----- W'hole'J3fs"
1V2"-~~--.
L-+ -+ - -=- .\t) !:/
~
I 3,4" 3'"
78
2%"---l
CI To ensure that the holes match, stack and

Clamp the top (A)to a worksurface with a Center the subbase on the top (A), oriented
scrap backer board underneath to prevent so that the router's controls may be easily secure the top aprons (K)to your bench, with
tear-out. Then drill the bit-access hole. accessed from the front of the table. a scrap backer board underneath.

•••
D
Drill a 1'32" holethrough the pivot 'hole and a
m:=-=~~"lD;~
Now, raise the top all the way. The/location of On a backer board, line up and stack-the
14" hole through the right guide hole. Match the left guide hole marks the location for the fence (L/LJ on top of the cleat assembly (M/NJ.
the depths to the hardware length. "up" linchpin hole. Drill with a 14" bit. Clamp, drill, and repeat on the other end.
jigsaw the curves. Now, glue and clamp

the face to the base.
Cut the fence spacers (M) and fence
2 cleats (N) to size. Glue and clamp the
spacers to the cleats. After the glue dries,
BFENCE
stack and clamp the fence assembly

(L/L)onto the cleat assembly (M/N), and
drill WI holes through the stacked ply-
wood [Drawing 3 and Photo L].
From a %x3x12" strip of plywood,
»:
3 cut the fence braces (0) [Photo M].
Glue and clamp the braces to the fence
assembly [Drawing 3]. ~
27"
Devise some
heavy-duty drawers
From %"plywood, cut two blanks
1 for the drawer fronts and
31Y16xlO"
backs (P). From one blank, cut two
13Y2"
drawer backs to length and set aside. On

the other blank, layout the drawer-front
finger pulls on each end [Drawing 4], and
cut out the pulls [Shop Tip, below right]
before cutting the fronts to length. .
Quick Tip! Cutting the radius before cutting
the blanks apart leaves you plenty of space for ___ ~_~~._._ ,"'_~" ~ __ 0 •.• _ _" __ ~"-' _.. ~ ~ "" _
clamping without interfering with the jigsaw

baseplate. SHOP TIP
A trick for tackling
tight jigsaw turns
Even with a fine-toothed wood blade
(10 tpi or greater) in your jigsaw,
cutting around tight curves can be a
tricky proposition, causing the blade
to bind, bend, arid burn.
Try this trick: Before you start in on
the curve, cut multiple straight relief
cuts, right. Then cut the curve within
Yi6" of the line. As you cut your way
around the curve, the waste pieces fall
® !
away one by one, relieving pressure on
the blade, and providing space to back
Relief cuts .a~~ '.'~
the tool up should you need to change

your angle of attack slightly. Sand to
Set your miter gauge to 45° to cut a brace the line of the curve using a short
from either end ofthe strip. Reset to 90° to section of sandpaper-wrapped Pvc.
cut the remaining two braces.
woodmagazine.com 91
Materials List
IIDRAWER FRONT
Table T
FINISHED SIZE
W l Mati. Qty.
r~
A* top %" 16Ys" 25" B
,15116' ,21'16"115116"
r B* legs %" 16" 11\1,," B
DFULL-SIZE DRAWER CATCH C* right foot %" 16" 2\1,," B

(2 needed) D* left foot %" 16" 7" B
R-l~"~ -r:-: E* pivot cleats %" 16" 2W' B
1"~
40/,6' Ye"round-over
F* upper drawer %" 14Y2" 4"
divider
® CD
L=
y,"
D, lower drawer
G* divider %" 15W 4" B
H* top cleat %" 14Y2" 2" B

%,"' hole, R=v.."
counterbored I table aprons %" 2" 1SY2" B
J drawer-box back %11 4" 9\1,," B

I-I.~--3"\'6' -----.~I K top aprons %" 1Y," 25" B
Fence
L face/base %" 4" 27" B
M spacers %" 1" 4%" B
N cleats %" 2" 4%" B

0* braces %" 3" 3" 4 .
Drawers
drawer fronts/ %11 43116"
P* backs 3'0/16" 4
-.
Q drawer sides Y2" 40/,6" 14%" B 4
R drawer bottoms 11211 2'0/16" 14%" B
5 drawer catches W'- W' 1" B 2
'Parts initiallycut oversize.Seethe instructions.
. .~~b'
14%" Materials key: B-birch plywood.
Supplies: #6x1" flathead wood screws (2), #Sx1Y2"
flathead wood screws (20), \l"x1 W lag screws (2), W flat
washers (6), \l"x1 Y2"hexhead bolts (2), \I,,-20x3" carriage
bolts (2). \1,,-20 star knobs (2).
From Yz" plywood, cut the drawer ~ Blade and bits: Drill!countersink bit; Wand j/32" drill bits;
2sides and bottoms (R)to size and
(Q)
%" rabbeting and Ya" round-over router bits; 1Y2" holesaw.
set them aside. Cutting Diagram

Mount your router onto the under- (KJ
3 side ofscrews
faceplate the top (A).reach,
don't original ~~==~~'>C±l.;2=::~~=~~~~~~~j~I''''~
(If the purchase It- .' \ N}-----1
longer machine screws of the same size ~CD2L ~-------rU ICD:;:::L ~-,- __ ...."..., __ L1~Q)~-,l~:2S1._I~U4:::;:7~'T!§:f7~J..A:::.~~~=-=-=
and thread count.) f----,-
ChuCk a %" rabbeting bit in the

4 router. Attach the fence and position
it to rout Yz"-deep rabbets the same
®®
® ® ® ®
thickness as the drawer sides (Q). Rabbet ®®
three sides of the drawer fronts and % x 24 x 96" Birch plywood
backs (P) [Drawing 5]. Now, switch bits
and rout Ys" round-overs on the finger
pulls of the drawer fronts.
Glue and clamp the drawers together
5 [Drawing 5]. From scrap W' stock (we
used plywood), cut the drawer catches
v.. x 6 x 12"
Birch plywood
(S)to size. Sand W' radii on the comers

[Drawing 6] with a sanding block. Drill,
counterbore, and attach the catches to
the front edge of the center leg (B) [Draw- y, x 24 x 24" Birch plywood
ing 1]. Now, insert the drawers, fill them
to the brim with bits, and get ready for
some routin' .• • For a video on safely handling • For a free plan for modular, in-
Produced by Lucas Peters with John Olson sheet goods, go to drawer router-bit storage, go to
Project design: Kevin Boyle woodmagazine.com/sheetgoods. woodmagazine.com/bitstorage.
Illustrations: Lorna Johnson

Space-saving
flip-top
tool bench
ike many others, I do my woodworking in the garage. But for
L some reason my wife expects to park her car in there, so keeping

my benchtop tools readily accessible-yet quickly stowed
away-had become a challenge. This bench keeps us both happy. It
holds twice. as many machines as I could pack on a typical wotksur-
face, saves me from lifting and lugging them about, and rolls out of
the way when the car rol~lsin. ~
Lucas Peters
Digital Content Manager
94
Set your fence 7" from the blade's outside edge. Make the first cut with the end rail (A)butted against the Place the center stretcher (D)so it spans the two
fence. Because the cut doesn't go fully through the workpiece, it's safe to use the miter gauge and fence in ends (AlB),its rabbeted ends in the end rails' (A)
tandem. Without moving the fence, butt the end rail against the spacer block and make the second cut. dadoes. Drill pilot holes and drive the screws.
First, make the sides fence as shown in Photo A. To cut the the center dado facing up on the bottom
Purchase five 8'-long 2x4s that are dadoes in the end rails (A), where shown of the assembly. Repeat for the other end
1 dry and straight as you can find, and
mostly free of defects. Cut the three
in Drawing 1, first cut their outside edges
[Photos A and B].Then, make additional
assembly and allow the glue to dry.
Bore the %", VI", and W' holes in the
straightest ones to 64" long, and save the
cutoffs. Cut six more pieces 31" long.
passes to remove the waste material
between the outside cuts.
2 top end rails (A), where shown [Draw-
ing 1]. Sand the end assemblies (A/B)
Joint, plane, and rip these 12 pieces to Now, reposition the fence so the to 150 grit.
1%" thick and 3" wide. From this stock,
cut the end rails (A), end stiles (B),side
3 spacer block is 3" from the outside
edge of the blade. Cut the rabbets in the 3 Glue and screw the side stretchers
(C) and center stretcher (D) [Photo C]
stretchers (C), center stretcher (D), and ends of the end stiles (B) [Drawing 1]. to the ends (A/B) [Drawing 2].
caster blocks (F) to length [Materials Cut a centered 3"-wide dado in the TOget the best yield from two sheets
List]. Set the caster blocks aside for now.
Install a %" dado set in your table-
4 . top· edge of the two bottom end
rails (A) [Drawing 1]. Then, reposition
4 of plywood, cut one base panel (E)to
sizefrom each sheet [Materials List, Cutting
2 saw, and raise it to lYt6". Clamp a
2W'-wide spacer block to your tablesaw's
the fence and spacer block and cut the
rabbets on both ends of the center
Diagram]. Layout and cut 1%"-long,
3"-widenotches for the stiles [Drawing 2].
stretcher (D) [Drawing 2]. Quick Tip! Use' a 10-tpi wood-cutting
blade in your jigsaw to minimize tear-out.
aSIDE ASSEMBLY Assemble the base Mount the base panels [Photo D].
(Inside view) 7fs" hole
Glue and clamp two end rails (A) Retrieve the caster blocks (F) and
1" deep
1 and two end stiles (B) [Drawing 1],
remembering to place the end rails with
5 glue them to the inside corners of
the base [Drawing 2].
30"
~" 3" rabbet
:::"d~~
woodmagazine.com ""'" I :
·..__ ,m
Check the base panels' (Elfit on the base stretchers Apply glue to the bottom of one of the spacers (Hl Clamp the assembly together to keep the pipe
(C,Dl and rails (Al before running a bead of glue on and nail it in place. Repeat for the other side, bottomed in each 1'8" hole. Drill the pipe through
their top edges and nailing the panels in place. keeping the spacers tight to the pipe. the W' hole in the end rails (A),
Build a spinning top bly (G-J). Place a 1'8" LD. washer on each Secure the pipe with bolts through the
Cut the top panels (G), long spacers end of the pipe before inserting the top top end rails. Mark and drill the lock-
1 (H), and short spacers (I) to size
[Materials List]. Layout the location of
assembly between the top end rails (A). bolt holes [Drawing 3, Photo G].
the spacers on the inside face of a top

panel [Drawing 3].
Situate two long spacers (H) on the
2 layout lines found near the center of
the top panel (G),and %" from both ends )~
of the panel to leaveroom for the ends U). 13;4"
Place a 62W' length of Yz" black pipe
between the long spacers; then, glue and
nail the spacers in place [Photo E].
Glue and nail the remaining two
3 long spacers (H) flush with the out-
side edges of the top panel (G). Then,
glue and nail the short spacers (I) in
place [Drawing 3]. J
From 1Yz"-thickstock, cut the ends
4 U) to size [Materials List]. Rip the W
rabbets in two long edges of each end
[Drawing 3]; then, drill centered W'
through holes where shown. Glue and
nail the ends to the top assembly
(G/H/1). Use the pipe ends to align the
. holes with the centered long spacers (H).
Remove the pipe. Apply glue to the
S top edges of the spacers (H, I) and
ends U). Lay the remaining top panel
(G) on the spacers and nail it in place.
Now, put it all together

Slide the Yz" black pipe into the W'
1 holes in the top end rails (A). (You
may need to push the ends away from ,II
III
I '
each other slightly to accomplish this.)
Drill 1'l64" holes through the pipe to
I
"
accept a W' bolt [Photo F].
Quick Tip! Drill the first hole and drop in a
bolt before drilling the pipe's other end. This
ensures bolt-hole alignment.
Remove the pipe from the base and
2 slide it back through the top assem-
When setting up your bench, considerworkflow
It's easy to get carried away when mounting tools to outfeed side of the tool. Others, such as sanding wheels •
your flip-top tool bench: The more tools you can fit, the or sharpeners, can function near each other. Also
lessclutter you'll have around your shop, right? But consider weight distribution and balance; too many
attaching too many tools may not leave adequate heavy tools on one side can make rotating the tabletop
working room around each of them. Instead, lay your difficult. For instance, we mounted only a portable
tools out on the bench, keeping workflow and spacing planer and oscillating spindle sander on one side
in mind. Some tools, such asjointers and planers, because those two tools weigh about as much as the
require additional space on both the infeed and . four tools on the opposite side.
Drill four 'Y16" holes through the upper end rails (A)
for the lock bolts. Use a clamp and spacer block to
keep the top (G-J) aligned with the end rails.
Cut the braces to size and glue

(K)
3 them in place To keep
[Drawing 3].
them from moving as they dry, shoot a Cutting Diagram
few brads or pins through them into the
end stiles (B)and base panels (E).Mount
rEe) I leA) n
*1 Y2 x 3Y2 x 96" Pine (2x4) "Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List.
a 4" locking caster on all four corners of
the workbench. Then, secure benchtop rEe) I I (A) B
* 1Y2 X 3Y2 x 96" Pine (2x4)
tools to the bench as desired using
through bolts for heavier tools and lag [SO) 11
t;
* 1Y2 X 3Y2 x 96" Pine (2x4)
screws for lighter ones .•
Producedby Nate Granzow with Kevin Boyle
rE6' rI==CB)
* 1Y2 3Y2 x 96" Pine
;tfl#fl
X (2x4)
Project design: Lucas Peters
Illustrations:Lorna Johnson tEeB) lAB)
*1 % x 3% x 96" Pine (2x4) *Q?
Materials List.
FINISHED SIZE
Wi
1% x 5Y2 x 96" Pine (2x6)
(£H)€Q J
Part T W l MatI. Qty.
A end rails 1¥s" 3" 30" P 4
B end stiles 1%" 3" 30" P 4
e side stretchers 1%" 3" 60\4" P

0 center stretcher 1W 3" 63" P
E base panels %" 15" 63" PLY
F caster blocks 1%" 3" 3" P 4
G top panels %" 30" 58W' PLY 2

©
H long spacers %" W' 57" P 4
I short spacers %" %" 13)1\6" P 4
J ends 11-2" 2Y8" 30" P 2
K braces %11 8" 8" PLY 4
t-®
Materials key: P-pine, PLY-plywood. % x 48 x 96" Plywood
Supplies: )1," black pipe 62y.," long, \4"-20x2W' lock bolts
(4),J4"-20x3W bolts (2), %" 1.0.washers (2), 0/,6" washers
(4),4" locking swivel casters (4), J4" nuts (2), #8x3" screws
(8), #8xl J4"screws (4),#12x1" panhead screws (16),
#18x1 W' brads.
Blade and bits: Dado blade; J4",'%4', 0/,6", W, W' drill bits. -
More Resources ~@
~ Learn to select benchtop tools that ~
work as hard as full-size ones here: K!02
woodmagazine.com/benchtoptools.
~ For more space-saving shop plans, visit CD
-->
~K/
woodmagazine.com/foldflat. I/(K
% x 48 x 96 " Plywood
woodmagazine.com 97
Dust-collecting
tool stand
A debris separator, effective air filter, and mobile
worksurface all rolled into one
nvest
a weekend in building this simple machine, be it nearby or sitting on its
I glued-and-screwed plywood cabinet

outfitted with a low-dough dust-
collection blower and you're ready to stop
sturdy 49Y2 x 31h" worksurface. As shown
in the Separator Airflow Drawing on the
next page, nearly all of the debris settles
sawdust-from big chips to microscopic in the cart's large drawer for convenient
airborne particles-in its tracks. You need disposal; the airborne stuff settles in its
only run a flexible hose from the collec- small drawer after passing through the
tor's 4" side port to any dust-spewing blower or gets trapped in the filters.

Mark the 4" hole in the baffle (C)with a After drilling countersunk pilot holes, apply a Apply glue to the outer faces of the inner sides
compass, bore a %" blade start hole near its bead of glue and screw together the separator (B).Position the outer sides (D) and clamp or
inside edge, and cut along the marked line. box ends (A), inner sides (B),and baffle (C). weight the pieces until the glue has dried.
D SEPARATOR BOX
SEPARATOR
AIRFLOW
Large chips fall

into drawer below.
I I
@
First, build the separator box \
'"
1 From %" plywood (we used Baltic birch
but any good-quality plywood will do),
cut to size the separator-box ends (A),inner
sides (B), baffle (C), and outer sides (D)
[Materials List, page 103; Drawing 1]. For
efficient cutting from 4x8' sheets refer to
the Cutting Diagram on page 103. Cut the 4"
hole in the baffle [Photo A]. You will cut the of the ends (A) and the outer sides (D) you cut your parts; measure for pieces that fit
other holes later. flush, with the top edges of the outer sides onto or into existing assemblies, and adjust
2 DrY-clamp parts A-C, ensuring they

are square with each other [Drawing 1].
higher than the tops of the inner sides (B)by
the thickness of your plywood. Note: The
those dimensions accordingly.
Drill countersunk pilot holes every 4" along

the butted joints. Unclamp and assemble
dimensions in this project assume your ply-
wood is exactly 3,41/ thick. But plywood thick-
4 Mark 4" holes on both outer sides (D)
[Drawing 1]. Cut the holes as you did
earlier through both the outer sides and
with glue and lYz" screws [Photo B]. nesses vary and your stock will most likely inner sides (B).
3 GIUe the outer sides (D) to the inner

sides (B) [Photo C]. Align the long edges
measure a bit under 3Ji. (Our Baltic birch ply
measured 111161/ thick.) Keep that in mind as S cut the straight ends off two 4%"-
flange plastic dust-collection elbows
woodmagazine.com 99
•
Clamp the flange of the elbow to your Align the hose connectors and flange elbows Applya bead of glue to mating surfaces,
workbench to steady it. Then hacksaw off the over the 4" holes in the outer sides (D) and align the separator-box top (E),and attach
straight portion ofthe unflanged end. attach the fittings with 1" screws. with countersunk 1 W' screws.
EJFILTER BOX
Vi'rabbet
Ys"deep
#8 x lVi'
F.H.screw~
Flip over the separator box (A-E). Align the
end ofthe separator-box bottom (F) with
the outer sides (D) and join with glue and
f
countersunk 1%" screws.
#8 x 2Vi'
F.H.screw
To create space for the drawer, place two

2W'-tall scrapwood spacers beneath the filter
box (G/H/Il to hold it in position as you attach
it with 1%" screws.
(see Sources on page 103) [Photo 0]. Attach
the elbows and two 4" hose connectors
[Sources] to the outer sides (D) [Photo E].
1 Cut the vertical cleats (G), horizontal
cleats (H), and back (I) [Materials List,
Drawing 2]. Glue and screw together the
6 Cut the separator-box top (E) and glue

and screw it in place [Photo F].
filter-box assembly (G-I). Although 1W'
screws work for joining most parts of this
7 Cut the separator-box bottom (F) to

size [Drawing 1] and attach it to the
separator-box assembly (A-E) [Photo G].
project, you'll need 2Vz" screws to reach
through the edges of the vertical cleats
and into the horizontal cleats.
Next, construct the filter box 2 Attach the filter-box assembly (G-I)
to the separator box (A-F) [Photo H].
Note: We sized this project to work with a
Grizzly l-hp, model GOllO dust collector
[Sources] that stands about 13W' tall. You
3 Cut the top spacer (J) and bottom-
spacer (K) to size from ¥I"-thick maple
and the filter-box top (L) to size from Attach the top and bottom spacers (J, K)with
may have to alter the height of the filter box %" plywood [Drawing 2]. Glue and clamp glue and clamps. Do the same with the filter-
to accommodate a different dust collector. these pieces to the filter box assembly box top (L),clamping it on three sides.

@
@
"-__'-~_-
~m ~
Place a sacrificial sheet (wood or extruded foam) under the cabinet sides (M)to protect Working on one side at a time, glue the cabinet
your worksurface from the through cuts. For cuts near edges, support the straightedge and sides (M) in place. The cabinet sides create recesses
buttress the thin area of the workpiece with a plywood scrap of identical thickness. for the filters and help seal the separator box (A-F).
IJCABINET
ASSEMBLY
Screw down one end of each motor mount

(N). Slide the blower's flanges under the
motor mounts' rabbets and attach the other
ends ofthe mounts.
4 Next, attach a Sx4" quick coupler

[Sources] to the exhaust port on the
dust-collector blower.
Quick Tip! If the coupler fits loosely, adhere
14"foam tape onto the exhaust for an airtight
friction fit.
Thread a 17" length of 4" dust collection
hose [Sources] onto the quick coupler and
lV2'
Note: Drawer cutout attach a 4" connector to the opposite end
in one@only Quick Tip! For straight and clean interior of the hose using a 4" hose clamp. Run a
cuts,usea plunge router outfitted with a guide 13" length of flexible hose between the
(G-I) [Photo I]. Note: The bottom spacer bushing and 14"upcut spiral bit guided by a connector on the separator box and the inlet
rests W' above the bottom edge of the hori- straightedge held in place with double-faced of the dust-collector blower, securing both
zontal cleat (H) to create a stop for the tape [Photos J and K]. ends with 4"hose clamps. Position the blower
drawer front added later.
Add the sides, casters,

2 GIUe and clamp the cabinet sides (M)
to the separator/filter-box assembly
(A-L) [Photo L].
so it rests entirely within the edges
of the filter-box top (L). Bend the exhaust-
port hose 90° and determine a mounting
dust collector, and top Quick Tip! Usea flush-trim bit in your router, location for its connector. Cut a 4"hole at that
1 Cut the cabinet sides (M) [Drawing 3].

The identically shaped sides mirror
if necessary, to trim the sides flush with other
cabinet parts.
location and attach the connector
with I" screws. Mark the location of the
each other except that only one has a
drawer cutout-something to keep in
mind if one side of your plywood looks
3 using ~xl" lag screws with washers,
attach 3" locking swivel casters to the
corners of the bottom (F). If the points of
blower's mounting flanges; then remove
the blower. Cut two rabbeted motor mounts
(N) [Drawing2], and securethe blower [Photo M].
better than the other, and you want the the screws stick into the drawer openings cut the two support stiles (0) and the
good side facing out. you will need to file or grind them flush. S support rail, (P) to size [Materials List,
woodmagazine.com 101
..
Staple along one long edge of the filter frame (BB/CC) first. Then, pull the filter fabric taut as you staple along the remaining edges. Trim off the
extra material along all edges before gathering the corners and trimming those, too.
Drawing 3]. Glue the support stiles to the easily. If necessary, disassemble the draw- pulls. Apply double-faced tape to the fronts
inside of the sides (M) and glue and screw ers and trim their parts. Once you're of the drawer boxes; then, align the false
the support rail atop the stiles. . satisfied with the fit, assemble the drawer fronts in the openings, and press them
onto the drawer-box fronts. Drive one
6 Cut the top (Q), long edging (R), and
short edging (S) [Drawing 3]. Glue the
short edging to the top with one edge
boxes with screws and glue.
3
Slide the drawer boxes (T-V; X-Z)
into their openings. Cut the false
screw through a hole for the wire pull, slide
the drawers out, and remove the screw.
flush with the top surface. Using a hand- fronts (W, AA) to size, and check that Drill through the holes in the false fronts,
saw, carefully trim the edging's ends flush they fit tightly with just a 1116" gap at the and glue the false fronts to the drawers.
with the top and attach the long edg- top and sides. Attach the wire pulls, using 2" machine
ing. Trim that edging flush with the JlAttach 3" wire pulls centered on both screws to reach through the drawer front
short edging. Set the top in place and • alse fronts (W, AA); then remove the (V, Y) and false front. .
secure one end with 114" screws driven
from the bottom of the support rail (P).
Secure the other end of the top with
screws driven through the top and into
the separator box (A-E).
Build and install the drawers

1 Cut the sides, fronts, backs, and bot-
toms for the separator drawer (T, V, V)
and the filter drawer (X, Y, Z) [Drawing 4]. #8x1W'
-_ Filter #8x1W'
F.H.screw
F.H.screw
Temporarily assemble the drawer boxes
using 1W' screws and attach the bottoms
with I" screws.
2 Test the fit of the drawer boxes (T-V;

X-Z) in their openings. They should
be snug to minimize air leaks, but slide
IJEXPLODED VIEW
and FILTER FRAMES
3"
wire pull
1 #8 x 1" F.H.screw
'--.-.#8 x 1" F.H.screw
(G)
Cutting Diagram RH H H
~
(fA)
-;j):..
, :~
-- (PJ -@- ----
--
-~
-~~--.--
.------~
© © CD -~ ,
------.-.--
@ CD
® ® CD © % x 48 x 96" Plywood
% x 48 x 96" Plywood
--~
® CD --~
---
CD
®
CD ® @ @
-- 3,4 x 48 x 96" Plywood
% x 48 x 96" Plywood
-- L--
lei ;-I==@
3,4 x 7'A x 96" Maple (5.3 bd. ft.)
(5)<
-----------
----.S
Materials List
FINISHED SIZE FINISHED SIZE
(j) Part T W L MatI. Qty. Part T W L MatI. Qty.
Separator box Separator drawer
A ends %" 16W 21%" PL T sides %" 11%" 28W PL 2
~~-
B inner sides %" 21%" 27" PL 2 U front & back %" 11%" 14'116" PL 2
C baffle %" 15" 21%" PL V bottom Y4' 161\6" 28W PL
® D outer sides %" 28Yi' 34W PL 2 W false front %" 161\6" 131\6" PL
E top %" 16Y,' 28W PL Filter drawer

'A x 48 x 48 " Plywood
F bottom %" 47)1,," 28W PL X sides %" 2W 29W PL 2
Filter box Y front & back %" 2y,," 27" PL 2
Add the filters and G vertical cleats %" 1Yi' 17W PL 2 Z bottom W 28W 29)1,," PL
finishing touches H horizontal cleats %" 1Yi' 27" PL 6 AA false front %" 3Yi' 28W PL
Quick Tip! In Step 3 of this section you will need
I back %" 28W 17W PL Filter frame
to drive staples into the filter frames to secure
J top spacer %" %" 28Yi' M BB rails %" %" 28%" M 6
the fabric. If you rely on a hand stapler instead
of a pneumatic stapler, build the frames from K bottom spacer %" Y2' 28W M CC stiles %" %" 14'1s" M 6
pine instead of maple. L top %" 30" 28W PL 'Part length may vary depending on the sizeof your dust-
collector blower.
1 Cut six filter-frame rails (BB) and six

filter-frame stiles (CC) [Materials List].
Glue and screw together three filter frames
Cabinet
M sides %" 48" 35v,," PL 2
Materials key: PL-plywood, M-maple.
Supplies: Double-faced tape, #8x1" flathead screws (52),
N motor mounts %" 2" 9"* PL 2 #8x1 v,,"flathead screws (12),#8x1W flathead screws (128),
[Drawing 4]. Check to make sure they fit #8x2W flathead screws (4),3" wire pulls (2),#8-32x2" truss-
0 support stiles %" 2W 11" PL 2
- into their openings with Ys"to spare all head machine screws (4),3" locking swivel casters (4),v"x1"
P support rail %11 2)1,," 28Yi' PL
the way around. lag screws (16),W washers (16),W staples.
Q top %" 30" 48" PL Bits: %" drill bit; W upcut spiral, flush-trim router bits.
2 Apply a durable finish to all surfaces.
We applied three coats of a water-
based polyurethane.
R
5
long edging
short edging
%"
%"
1W
1W
49W
30"
M
M
Sources
Dust-collection fittings: 4%" flange elbows (2),no.
D4223, $5.95 each; 4" connectors (3), no. D4262, $3.50
3 Cut three 21x32" pieces of filter fabric

[Sources]. Staple those pieces to the
filter frames [Photos N, 0].
SAttach a length of flexible hose to the
connector on the outside of the sepa-
each; 5x4" quick coupler, no. D4233, $2.95; 4" hose clamps
(4), no, W1022, $.50 each; Grizzly Industrial, 800-523-4777,
grizzly.com.
JI Place the filters within their openings rator box. Hook up the other end of the Dust hose: 4"x10' clearflexible hose, no. D4206, $17.95,
Grizzly Industrial.
-trwith the fabric facing inward. Attach the hose to any dust-belching machine in
Dust collecto-r: Model G0710, $175, Grizzly Industrial.
frames with two countersunk 1Yz" screws your shop and enjoy your new level of Filter fabric: 36x82" 1O-oz. polyester felt, singed one
driven through each frame rail (BB). dust-collection efficiency .• side, $25, woodmagazine.com/filter.
Rolling
tool cabinet
Don't settle for metal. Build
a chest beautiful enough to
passfor fine furniture.
Dimensions: 30W'W x 21"D x 50¥,6"H
Approximate materials cost: Lumber and
plywood-$320. Hardware-$255.
T
he inspiration for this cabinet
came from the steel mechanics'
tool chests seen in so many garages.
We took that basic design and classed it
up to suit a woodworking shop.
For years to come, you'll gain satisfac-
tion from tugging on the brass knobs and
feeling the drawers-sized to hold every-
thing from pencils and chisels to full-size
routers-glide open effortlessly on full-
extension slides. A lidded top tray provides
quick access to frequently used tools and a
place to set them while working. Casters
hidden below the base allow you to roll
everything wherever needed in your shop.
We joined the carcase with biscuits to
simplify and speed up construction. And
even though each drawer looks slightly
taller than the one above it, we designed
only three drawer-box sizes to minimize
tool setups and reduce stacks of differently
sized parts. Simple and strong lock-rabbet
01-
joints, cut entirely on the tablesaw with a
W' dado blade, make drawer construction
a map.
John Olson, Design Editor
Put an edge on plywood parts

1 Using a circular saw guided by a
straightedge, and following the Cut-
ting Diagram on page 110, rip one 8/-long
blank 18%/1 wide and another 18/'8/1 wide
from a sheet of %/1 walnut plywood .
. Quick Tip! To prevent chip-out, use a
60-tooth plywood blade, cut with the good face
of the plywood down, and cover the cutline on
the top face with painter's tape.
Set the wider blank aside for the top/
bottom panels (E), divider panel (J), and
lid panel (GG).
2 From the 18W'-wide blank, crosscut
two side panels (A)to 41Ys" long, stack
them with their factory edges flush,
and, with your circular saw, crosscut them
to finished length [Drawing 1]; then rip
them to final width at the tablesaw.
Finish-sand the outside faces of the side
panels to 220 grit.
3 Cut the long panel edging (B) and the

short panel edging (C) V8" wider and I"
longer than finished size [Materials List,
page 110]. Cut the top/bottom panel
edging (D) W' wider than listed, but to
finished length [Drawing 2].
A scrap of 1"1" plywood below the side panel
4 Miter the long panel edging (B) and
short panel edging (C) to fit around
the side panels. (A). Cut a piece of W' ply-
(A)creates an even lip with the long and
short panel edging (B, C) on the outside face
of the panel.
wood to about 16x36" and lay a side panel
on it, inside face up [Photo A]. Glue and
clamp the long and short panel edging to EJCARCASE
the side panel. Install a flush-trim bit in
your router and rout only the inside face of
the edging [Photo B].
aSIDE VIEW (Left side, inside face)
- -0- .~-.
42V2"
\ 16"
~
F 0
42V2"
41"
W' groove W' deep

W' from back edge
I
Mitered
! ends
c--
1-------18v,"------"'-<-< #20 biscuit and slot
Press the base of the joiner against the The cradle supports the side assembly (A-C)
T-square and align the mark on the center of and provides a flat surface for registering the
the tool's fence with the mark 1%" from the biscuit joiner while cutting the slots.
front edge. Cut the slot.
cut the top and bottom panels (E) to [Photo E]. Mark the lengths of the top,
S size; then glue the toplbottom panel
edging (D) to the panels [Drawing 2]. After
middle, and bottom vertical dividers;
then crosscut the vertical dividers to
the glue dries, flush-trim both faces of length. To locate the groove for the
the edging and finish-sand the panel back panel (K), mark the rear edge of
assemblies (DIE). the top panel on the side assembly
(AlBIC). Cut a W' groove W' deep along the
The biscuiting begins mark [Drawing 1].
Note: Cut all biscuit slots on this project cut #10 biscuit slots centered in the
with the biscuit joiner fence folded up. S ends of the top, middle, and bottom
vertical dividers (G, H, I) [Drawing 1; Shop
1 On the inside face of each side assem-
bly (AlBIC), layout the bottom edge of
each divider (F) [Drawing 1]. Mark an
Tip below]. Note: Cut a slot in only the bot-
tom end of the top vertical divider (G).
intersecting line on each layout line 1:W' -6Clamp three dividers (F) together
from the front face of the long panel edg- with their ends flush [Photo FJ, and
ing (B). Then layout the five biscuit-slot mark a line 3/s" to one side of the center- The T-square ensures that the biscuit slots for
locations on the short panel edging (C) line. Align the T-square with this line and the vertical dividers (G, H, I) align across the
centers of all three dividers (F).
and the mating locations on the top and cut biscuit slots centered on the length of
bottom panels (DIE). the dividers. Set one divider aside, transfer
2 From 2x12" and 2x24" scraps of 3;4" the line around to the opposite faces of
plywood, build a T-square like the one the two remaining dividers, and cut slots
shown in Photo C. Clamp it along each on these faces.
the divider panel and the rear of the verti-
cal dividers, and cut slots on these marks
[Shop Tip, opposite page]. Then glue the
divider panel in place.
layout line and set the biscuit joiner to cut
slots W' above the base of the tool. With
the base of the joiner facing the bottom
7 Glue biscuits in the slots and clamp
the vertical dividers (G, H, I) to the
three dividers (F). Ensure the assembly is 8 Begin assembling the carcase by glu-
ing the top panel (DIE) to a side panel
of the panel and resting against the edge of square and that the front edges are flush. (AlBIC). Glue the divider assembly (F-J) to
the T-square, cut #20 biscuit slots for the After the glue dries, cut the divider panel the top and side panel [Photo G]. Then
dividers (F). To cut the slots in the short (J) to length [Drawing 1]. Mark three loca- glue the remaining dividers (F) and bot-
panel edging (C) easily, make a cradle from tions for #10 biscuits on the front edge of tom panel (DIE) to the side panel. Glue the
scrap plywood [Photo 0]. Cut the mating
biscuit slots in the ends of the top and
bottom panels (DIE).
Secure short pieces to
3 Cut the dividers (F) to size [Drawing 2]
and sand them to 150 grit. With their
bottom faces down, cut #20 biscuit slots in
simplify slotting
each end of each divider. Place #20 biscuits Tosafelyholdthe verticaldividers(G,H, I), trap
c, them in ajig made from scrapsheet goods.
in the slots and dry-fit a side assembly
First,screwyour biscuitjoinerto a base and
(AlBIC), the top panel (DIE), and the three clampthe base to your bench. Clampa fence
top dividers. on the base square to the faceofthe joiner.
JI Cut a V4X3YzxI2" blank for the top, Keepyour hands awayfromthe cutter at the
-9middle, and bottom vertical dividers front ofthe tool by holdinganother scrap
(G, H, I) and butt it against the top panel behind each divideras you cut the slots.
(DIE) and the rear edges of the dividers (F)

- -~~---,
SHOP TIP
To cut slots,
go over the edge
To support the divider assembly
(F-I) when cutting the biscuit slots
in the vertical dividers (G, H, I),
extend two 3"-wide scraps past the
edge of your bench. Clamp the
divider assembly to the scraps and
rest the biscuit joiner on the scrap
when cutting the slots.
Check each divider (F) as you clamp it in place

m
Driveonly two screws, each into the
to ensure that it lies flush and square with the elongated holes in the drawer slides, to allow
front of the long panel edging (6). for adjusting the drawer positions later.
V2"
remaining side panel in place and check BSMALL DRAWER v.," dadoes v.," deep
\4" fromthe end
the assembly for square.
(
9 Measure for the back panel (K) [Draw-
ing 2], cut it to size, and set it aside.
Build a bunch of drawers

Quick Tip! Instead of planing down 3,h,"-thick
stock for the j/;z"-thick drawer parts, maximize
your yield by resowing and planing 6/4 stock. 1 x'l's"
raisedknob
1 Cut the drawer fronts and backs (L, 0,
Q) and sides (M, P, R) to size [Materials
List, Drawings 3 and 4]. To form the lock-
rabbet joints, rout or cut a W' dado W'deep, Note: *@2%"
W' from the end of each drawer side. Cut @)27fs"
rabbets on each end of the drawer fronts
and backs to create tongues that fit the
dadoes in the sides. Next, cut a J411-deep IIMEDIUM AND LARGE DRAWER
groove in each piece to accept the plywood
for the drawer bottoms (N, S); then cut
the drawer bottoms to size. Finish-sand the
inside faces of the drawer parts to 220
grit; then glue up the drawers.
2 Draw a line across each side panel

(A)and the center panel U) centered in
each drawer opening. Center the cabinet
half of a drawer slide on each line, using
the T-square made earlier to position it,
and secure each slide with two screws
[Photo H].
3 screw the drawer half of each drawer

slide to the drawer sides (M, P, R), flush
with the front end and centered on the
lVsxlVs"
raisedknob
width of the side. Test the fit and opera- Note: *0 4\4"
tion of the drawers in the carcase. Make G)Sv.,"
any needed adjustments to the drawer ®6V2"
slides; then drive the remaining screws @8"
into each half of the slides.
~'"
Rest each drawer face (T-AA) on pennies to
D ~ 11
Align the edge of a %" straight bit with the far Turn the carcase upside down and center the
create a Yi6" gap below; then mark any areas side of a hole in a base trim (BB) piece. Lock base (BB-DD) on it. Apply glue to the base
needing to be trimmed for-a uniform gap all the fence against the straightedge and rout cleats (DO) and screw them to the bottom
around. away the waste. panel (E).
4 TOallow VI6" clearance all around, cut

the drawer faces (T-AA) Ys" narrower 3 Complete the profile by mounting a
W straight bit in your table-mounted 4 SwitCh to a W' round-over bit in the
router table, and round over the top
and shorter than their respective drawer router and raising it %" above the table. outside edges of the long and short base
openings. Dry-fit each drawer face in its Adhere a straight-edged scrap to the face of trims (BB,CC). Cut #20 biscuit slots in the
opening, and scribe any areas that need each base trim piece (BB, CC), flush with miters, and glue and clamp the base trim
trimming [Photo I]. the bottom edge, and rout between the pieces together.
Cut the base cleats (DD) to size and
Quick Tip! Label the back of each drawer
up to help you
face, and mark an arrow pointing
realign the faces when reattaching them.
holes in each piece [Photo J]. Raise the bit
to IVI6" and rout away the remaining waste
on each piece.
S glue them to the inside faces of the
long base trim (BB) flush with the top
In the back of each drawer face (T-AA), edges of the trim. .
S layout and drill counterbores and
shank holes for the machine screws that
Mitered
secure the knobs [Drawings 3 and 4]. Install ends >---"'~
the knobs. Affix a short strip of double-
faced tape to the back of each drawer face
and, again resting the drawer face on
pennies, press it against its respective
drawer. Gently pull out the drawer and
DTOP ASSEMBLY
face far enough to allow you to drive
screws through the drawer fronts (L, 0, Q)
and into the faces.
6 Remove the drawers, detach the faces

(T-AA), remove the double-faced tape
and knobs, and finish-sand the drawer faces.
II
7 RetrieVe the back panel (K). Apply a

ribbon of glue into the grooves in the
long panel edging (B), and slide the back
panel in place [Drawing 2].
The base helps it roll

1 From 4"-wide stock, miter-cut the long
base trim (BB) and short base trim
(CC) to finished length [Drawing 2]. On
the outside face of each piece, layout a
point 5%" from each end and 3%" from the
top edge. Drill 1Yz" holes centered on these
marks, and connect the top edges of the
holes with a straight line.
2 Rip the bottom edge of the long and

short base trim (BB, CC) to bring the
pieces to 3%" wide. To remove the waste
between the holes, bandsaw to within ljg"
of the line.
1 08 Big Ideas for Small Workshops 2014

Drillpilot holes for the screws through the Cut a kerf in each side lid trim (II)as deep as Draw lines on the face and end of the side
holes in each caster; then secure a caster to. the width of the back lid trim (JJ). The kerf lid trim (II)to connect the ends of the kerf.
each corner of the base trim (BB/CC). should exit right at the corner of the side Saw along the lines with a handsaw to
lid trim. remove the waste.
6 After the glue dries, glue and screw the

base assembly (BB-DD) to the bottom
panel (D/E) [Photo K]. Screw a caster
3 Set your tablesaw miter gauge to 45°
and attach an extension to it. Raise the
tablesaw blade to match the width of
[Source] to each corner [Photo L]. the back lid trim (TJ) and make a cut
@
through the extension. Clamp a side lid
Put a lid on it trim (II) to the extension, top edge down,
1 Laminate two pieces of %x2Ysx30Ys" aligning the top outside corner with the
walnut for the tray back (EE). After near edge of the kerf in the extension, and
the glue dries, plane it to 114" thick and cut a kerf [Photo M]. Reset the miter gauge
rip and crosscut it to 2x30". Cut the tray to the opposite 45° setting and repeat this
sides (FF)to size and shape the 2" radius at procedure for the remaining side lid trim.
the front end [Drawing 5]. Glue and screw
both tray sides to the tray back. After the
glue dries, glue this assembly to the top
4With a handsaw, trim away the waste
created by the kerf in the side lid trim
(II) [Photo N]. Glue and clamp the front lid •
panel (E) and short panel trim (C), flush trim (HH) and side lid trim to the lid panel Center the lid (GG-JJ) from side to side on
top of the carcase. Press the side lid trim
at the back and centered from side to side. (GG); then glue the back lid trim (JJ) in (II)against the tray back (EE) and screw the
2 Cut the lidpanel (GG) to size [Drawing place. After the glue dries, position the lid hinge in place.
5]. From %" stock, cut the front, over the tray sides (FF) and screw a length
side, and back lid trims (HH, II, JJ) 1/2" of continuous hinge to the back lid trim
longer than listed. Miter-cut the front
ends of the side lid trims (II), clamp them
and tray back (EE) [Photo 0, Drawing 5].
Check that the lid opens and closes; then
6
Reattach the knobs, and screw the
drawer faces (T-AA) to the drawers.
Position the lid (GG-JJ), secure the
to the lid panel, and miter-cut the front remove it from the hinge and rout a 14" continuous hinge, and your new cabinet is
lid trim (HH) to fit between them. Fit round-over along the outside bottom edge ready to house your tools .•
the back lid trim (JJ) against the back of the front and side lid trim.
Produced by Craig Ruegsegger with
edge of the lid panel and mark the
finished length of the side lid trim.
Crosscut the side lid trim on the marks.
5Remove the continuous hinge. Apply a John Olson
finish. We used the procedure describ-
ed in Bringout the beauty in walnut, below.
Project design: John Olson
Illustrations: Lorna Johnson
Bring out the beauty in walnut

To more closely match walnut's light sapwood with its dark heartwood, we applied
a coat of Lockwood water-based dye, no. 43 English Brown Mahogany, over all
surfaces. To get a seamless result, apply the dye with a foam brush, and immediately
wipe each pass with a moist rag to smear the wet edge and blend the line between
adjacent passes, right. Start your strokes away from inside corners and edges where
the dye may pool. Instead, use the rag to help work dye into those areas.
Water may raise the grain, making it feel fuzzy, so after the dye dries, sand lightly
with 220-grit sandpaper. If needed, apply a second coat of dye to areas that remain
too light, blending the edges with a rag.
The dye evened out the color variations in the walnut, but added a redder tone
than we wanted, so we then applied a coat of Varathane stain no. 260 American
Walnut for a browner hue. After the stain dried, we sprayed on three coats of a
satin-finish, oil-based lacquer.
Cutting Diagram Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
G)(HI) © © Part T W L MatI. Qty.
F W Carcase
l!:iB ~B I A* side panels %It 18Y2" 41" WP 2
%x7'14 x 96" Walnut (5.3 bd. ft.)
long panel 42Y2"
B* %" 1" W 4
edging
F
short panel
C* %" 1" 20" W 4
edging
top/bottom
f®E) D*
E*
panel edging
top/bottom
:y.t
%"
%"
18%"
28"
28"
W
WP
2
2
% x 7'14x 96" Walnut (5.3 bd. ft.) panels
prEE)c ~QS@!CQr?k$ t== I F
G
dividers
top vertical
%"
%"
3Y2"
3Y2"
28"
2Ys"
W
W
7
% X 7V. x 96" Walnut (5.3 bd. ft.) divider
±C
middle vertical
~= ~~
H %" 3Y2" 2Y2" W
~ .@
39 ;B[ @S=:
~ I divider
bottom vertical
%" 3Y2" 3" W
divider
% x 9'14 x 96" Walnut (6.7 bd. ft.) J* divider panel %" 16" 9%" WP
~v,
1
.iil!===~f3
x 7'14 x 60" Poplar (6.7 bd. ft.)
* Plane or resaw to the
thickness listed in the
Materials List.
K
Drawers
back panel
small drawer
~" 28Y2" 42Y2" BP
L Y211
2" 12Ys" 12
~?(P)
W --
I--=(p)
P!(o'5=
1V, x 7'14 x 96" Poplar (10.7 bd. ft.)
=-.
I *(P)~
*(0) M
fronts/backs
small drawer
sides
Y," 2" 18" P 12
small drawer 12Ys" 17Y2"
N %" BP 6
bottoms
medium drawer Y2" 3Y2" 26Y2"
0 6
fronts/backs
1V, x 7'14 x 96" Poplar (10.7 bd. ft.)
p medium drawer Y," 3Y2" 18" 6
sides
- I. Q
large drawer Y2" 6Y2" . 26Y2" p 4
frontslbacks
large drawer 11211 6Y2"
- R 18" 4
(" i--- sides
medium/large )1,," 17Y2" 26Y2" BP
5
drawer bottoms
® ® ® CD T drawer 1** faces %11 2" 13Y2" W 2
U drawer 2** faces %" 2%" 13Y2" W 2
V drawer 3** faces %" 2%" 13Y2" W
W drawer 4** face %" 3Y2" 27%" W

Waste
A A
C; X drawer 5** face %tf 4!4" 277Js" W
y drawer 6** face %" 5!4" 27%" W
% x 48 x 96 " Walnut plywood
Z drawer 7** face %" 6Y2" 27%" W
AA drawer 8** face %" 8" 27%" W

__
. ..
_. -~.--t-------I---.--.- Base
c:D_.__ ---®I-----J-®~-t------- BB* long base trim %" 3%" 30Y2" W 2
CC* shortbasetrim %" 3%" 20Y2" W 2
DD base cleats %" 2" 29" W
Lid
EE* tray back 1iii" 2" 30" LW
..--··-·-<2.. -11 + ---
FF tray sides %" 2" 18" W 2
® GG* lid panel %11 17Y2" 29" WP
'14x48 x 96" HH* front lid trim %" 3" 30Y2" W
Birch plywood - - --- 11* side lid trim %" 3" 19" W 2
.s=
JJ* back lid trim %" 1" 30Y2" W
--- Source
Hardware: 25x780mm brass-plate 'Parts initially cut oversize.Seethe instructions.
@ @ piano hinge no. 00D5225 (1),$7.20;#3x%" "Drawer facesnumbered from top to bottom.
----- brass F.H.screws [10 pkJ no. 91Z0305X (2), Materials key: WP-walnut plywood, W-walnut,
$1.00; Frame casters, no. 00K2501 (setof BP-birch plywood, P-poplar, LW-Iaminated walnut.
@-
_----- r--------.S
.
@
_._ ...
4), $15.40; 18" 100-lb. full-extension zinc
drawer slides no. 02K3018 (11),$14.60;
lx%" raised knobs no. 02W3200 (6) $4.20;
1YsxlYs"raised knobs no. 02W3201 (10),
Supplies: Double-faced tape, #10 biscuits (8),#20
biscuits (38),#8x1" flathead screws (32),#8x1 iii" flathead
screws (8),#8x2" flathead screws (4).
@ @ $4.50. Lee Valley Hardware, 800-871-8158, Blade and bits: Dado blade; Y,6", 1'32", 1Y2"drill bits;
'14x 48 x 48" Birch plywood leevalley.com. flush-trim, iii" round-over, %" straight router bits.

· "' --.~~
ShopTips
Planer stand sets up quickly,

rolls away for easy storage
With limited room in my shop, I needed to stow my planer out of the
way, but in such a way as to make getting it out of storage and setting
it up on a pair of sawhorses relatively painless.
So I built a frame from 2x4 and 2x6 lumber with 2" swivel casters,
as shown, and mounted my planer to it. Because my folding saw-
horses were designed to hold 2x4s as sacrificial top rails, the frame
drops right in, keeping the planer secure during use. If your sawhorses
don't have this feature, just clamp the frame in place for stability.
When finished with the planer, set the frame on the floor and roll it
smoothly into storage.
-Carl Byrns, Liverpool, N. Y.
............................................................ : .
- .
Clamp caddy rolls to work Support table pulls triple duty
I depend on my pipe clamps for most
projects, which means I constantly
as support, fence, and storage
In my tiny shop, space efficiency is the name of
have to move them around the shop (or
the game. By building the top of my mitersaw's
trip over them). The simple caddy I
extension table in three segments, and hinging
built makes moving and storing those
the two rear segments as shown, I created
heavy clamps easy.
a collapsible fence that, when positioned
I built mine for 24" clamps, but you
upright, provides access to additional storage
can resize all the parts to accommodate
space beneath the tabletop. Folded flat, it
longer (or mote) clamps. The lengths of
11,4" J.D. pve pipe slide through the
provides a broad worksurface.
holes in the top and fit over 1%x1" -Jake Lee, Amery, Wis.
dowel attached to the base with screws.
After securing the pipe to the dowel
with screws and attaching casters, your Storage space
pipe-clamp caddy will be ready to rolL under folding top
-John Fiorani, Winston-Salem, N.C
Support table
HINGE ORIENTATION DETAIL
Fence face Back fence
Support table
- - - ~
Shop Tips
Sandbag and mat calm Simple, sturdy shelves
shaky mobile scrollsaw store standard screw boxes
I put my scrollsaw on casters to make it In the past, I've noticed that the small
mobile, but then it seemed to vibrate plastic storage bins you buy at home
more. It also had a tendency to roll centers and hardware stores won't hold
away from me While pushing a work- all the contents of a I-Ib box of some
piece through. fasteners. However, I also noticed that
To dampen the vibrations, I strapped those I-Ib boxes are almost always the
a sandbag onto the saw, as shown, using same size, regardless of the fasteners
cable ties. When I need to use the saw, I inside. Even better, they already come in
roll it onto a floor mat. This further perfectly serviceable, prelabeled, storage
reduces vibration. Plus, the additional containers. So instead of buying buckets
weight sinks the wheels into the mat so of bins; I built these simple shelves and
the saw doesn't wander during use. It store the prelabeled boxes on them.
works so well that it passes the "nickel -Jeff Feuetsieln, Neenah, Wis.
test"-a nickel standing on edge on
the tabletop doesn't fall over with the '11,
'tll
motor running! tltt
-Dean Fiene, Runnells, Iowa II'tl
tt"1
Knockdown workstation rolls to stow low

In my small shop, any tool that doesn't fit ing function. So I built this base from
on a shelf gets casters added to help me 2x4s and W' plywood, mounting 3" lock-
make the most of the space I do have. But ing casters under it. Now, after collapsing
in the case of my collapsible workstation, the bench, I simply roll it beneath other
there wasn't a good place to mount casters machines for storage.
without interfering with the bench's fold- -Cory Hoehn, Jeffersonville, Ind.
%x6V2x21Y2"
back
%x 2'.4 x 21Y2"
sides
2"
Va" hardboard
·'3~
~~

Supe' '
Longer~orstrength
Wat:emblytime
. deanup
NET8FLO Z-(237ml) ~i_
·,~

Special Publication 2014 - Big Ideas For Small Full

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Special Publication 2014 - Big Ideas For Small Full

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Special Publication 2014 - Big Ideas For Small Full

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

12 AMAZING PROJECTS BUILT WITH HOME-CENTER MATERIALS

Display until December 9, 2014

SENIOR DESIGN EDITOR KEVIN BOYLE

MEREDITH NATIONAL MEDIA GROUP

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENTS

equipment set up without adequate forethought. So we've SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS

10 Keep things tidy

Great shops in less than 400 sq. ft.

24 Lessis more 32 Bare necessities

12 Make the most of your workbench

15 Get things rolling

16 Store accessorieswith tools

18 Give tool bases extra duties

2 Big Ideas for Small Workshops 2014

42 Pocket-hole jigs 58 All about wood chisels

46 Compact routers 63 Our favorite hand tools

50 One-hand bar clamps 66 Shop-proven products

75 Swing-out tool stand

88 Benchtop router table

94 Flip-top tool bench

98 Dust-collecting tool stand

104 Rolling tool cabinet

111 Shop Tips

T lar with readers that it led to

4 Big Ideas for Small Workshops 2014

while still enabling the garage to shelter 1

Idea Shop 3 took the traditional basement

A 12x20' outbuilding behind a suburban home

-More Resources .----~~----

6 Big Ideas for Small Workshops 2014

8 Big Ideas for Small Workshops 2014

•• Wall cabinets store double

• Cars and tools all park inside

.•. Collect dust and chips

.•. Keep stuff close

10 Big Ideas for Small Workshops 2014

Make the most of

~ An end vise, a leg vise, and well-spaced holes for bench

.•• T-tracks set into this benchtop provide

12 Big Ideas for Small Workshops 2014

~ A pair of drawers for portable tools and a cabinet that

<11II A deep drawer and two sets of shallower drawers

~ Slate countertops salvaged from a high-school

~ .Cabinetry and workbench com-

~ Casters carry this massive bench (it

~ T This sturdy workbench, built from

14 Big Ideas for Small Workshops 2014

Get things rolling

.•. Sturdy mobile bases for the tablesaw

..••This cart keeps an assort-

.•. Heavy-duty casters make this workbench

.• This handsaw's fence, miter gauge, pushstick,

..••Router bits store in holders on the

..•.~ This mobile lathe station puts

~ Here's another bandsaw with

Give tool bases

.•. This flip-over base holds a mitersav

20 Big Ideas for Small Workshops 2014

TYPE: Dedicated shed