MADEIRA,

ITS OII1IATI AND S C E N E R Y

CONTA IKINO URDICAL AM» 0'NIKAI. ISMRMOlKJt
ró* INVAMM AND VHtTOKIt A TOtTR OT Tttt ISLAS D, MTC.;
ako am Arrivmx.
BT ROBE ET WHITE.

Illuttralrd teith Engraringt, from Sketchet takrn on Ih* S/,ot ty John Hotcii► nn* F*tj
and o Mep the írfunrf.
lONDOU; CKADOCK & CO. PATERNOSTEll BOW;
AND F. WILEINSON fc CO, MADEIRA.
1861.
 LOKEOjC:
CLÀT, PRIXTER, BREAD STREET III LL»
 PREFACE.

The following notes liave heen prepared at the

suggestion of a few friends, who have flattered tlie
author by eonsidering him fitted, from his long
eojourn on tlie island, to funiish such information
as would be useful to st ranger s, and especially
invalids, resorting to Madeira.
The want of such information lias often been
regre tted by visitors, and certainly none of the
works hitherto published on the subject are at ali
ealculated to supply tliis desideratum.
The autbor lias here «ndeavoured to ftimish ali
the information which an experienee of tipwards
of fifteen years' residenee on tlie island lias tauglit
him to be necessary for tlie visítor. He has
also attempted to supply such detaiis regarding
the climate of Madeira as miglit be interesting
and useful to many, and especially to those wh o
iv PREFACE.

are meditating a ehange, irom the trying cold of

England, to a míld and purer atmosphere, or who
111 ay be interested in selecting an eligible winter
resort for others.
Without' pretending to medicai kuowledge, the
author lias gíven his own experience of the climate,
and the resulta of some meteorologieal observations
made by himself, whieh be lias endeavoured to
condense as much as possíble, with a due regard
to correctness, from a series of daily observations.
He lias avaíled himself of the kínd assistance of
resident Englísh medicai praetitioners in pointing
out the beneficiai effeets of the climate in the cure
or amelioration of disease; and begs to express his
peculiar obligations to Drs. Lund and Tibbetts,
for their raluable informatíon. Tbe medicai in-
structions for invalíds during the voyage will be
fully appreciated by that class of visitors.
Tlie descripti011 of tlie dífferent kinds of grapes
and trines produced on tlie island, may be relied
upon as correct; for information on these, the
writer bas to aeknowledge his obligations to
William Grant, Esq., whose long experience and
excellent pracíical knowledge as a wine-merchant
and cnltivator of the grape, are well known in
Madeira.
 FREFACE. V

An additional and important mtercat has been

imparted to tlie work by the kimines3 of Jolin
Botcherby, Esq., who lias furnished the excellent
and accuratc sketehes from wliicli tlie illustrations
have been taken.
Considerable pai na li ave been besto we d on tlie
commercíal and statistical information contained in
tlie work; and it is hoped the explanation oí tlie
monies, weights, and measures of tbe island will
be found useful, as grcat confusion prevails on
tliese points 111 ali tbe woiks hitherto pubUshed
descriptíve of Madeira.
To lovers of natural scenery tbe excursions in
Madeira are peculiarly interesting; and as such
journeys are often undertaken by invalida, to vary
tlie monotony of a residenee in Funchal or its
ncighbourhood, a plan lias been given of a tour
tlirough the island, and such praetieal bints as the
author knows from experience will be useful. The
distances have ali been carefully aseertained, and
are given in a tabulai forni—not in miles, as the
nature of the roads renders such information of no
use to tlie tourist; but—in tbe time required in
passing from one point to another, at the usual
pace on horseback, in hammocks, or by boat.
Parties are usually aecompanied by attendants in
vi FREFACE.

tbese excursious, to look after the korses, &c.> but

as few of tliem understand English, tliey are of
little use as guides.
Besides wisking to record lais oiro grateful ex-
perience of a residenee in Madeira, to which ke
feels tliat lie owes many years' prolongation of
life, and tlic cnjoyment of comparative bealth, tke
writer kopes tliis little work may be of real ntility
to otliers similarly eircumstaneed witli liimsclf.

Hadkira, 1850.
 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER L
FAGE
Ilistoiy of tile Discovery of Madeira—General Appearance of tlie
Islaad—Hiatory—Populatiort, &c. }

CHAPTER H.
Appearance of thc Isiand frora lhe Anchoragc—Description of the
Atichoragi; — Impressions oa Landin# — Funchal: Hietory,
Churches. Convento kc. ,.11

CHAPTER Hl.
Descriptiou of Funchal—Ribeiros—Inundations—Praças—Beach—
Carreira—Englísh Chapei—Ccmeteríes—Hospitais—Old Buildings
—Manicipal GoTernment—Garrison—Improvements, &e. . , . 33

CHAPTER IV.
Inh&hitanta—Manners and CusÉoms—Muaic—Literatura, &e. . . . 34

CHAPTER T.
Geology—Nataral Histoiy—Imgatíon—Agricnltare, Src 41

CHAPTER Tl.
Iand—Cullivation of the Sagar-çane—Vine—Vintage—
Wines—Eiports, &i

CHAPTER TU.
Fruits—Yegetables—Treea—Flowers, &e 64
viu COXTENTS.

CHAPTER VUI.
PAGE
Climnto of Madeira—Hoteorological ObservatioUB and Tablcs. . . 71

CHAPPER Et.
Snlubrity of t!i c CHmate—-Its eflccts ou Pulmonary Discqscs , . 80

CHAPTER X.
Means of reachiog Madeira—Outfit—Currency—Mnils—Passports—
Ionding—Custom-liouse j q-j

CHAPTER XI.
Boardiug llouses —Funiished Honses—Scrvatits—Horus—Talaii-
qu i ns—II ammocks-—âlctf ges—Boatiog—Shops—Club-—Libraries
—Chnrch Few-rent»—Medicai Practitioners—Druggfsts—Meana
of retnrning to Eiiglnad 1X1

CHAPTER XH.
Medicai Directiom for Invalida during the Vojage 130
•
CHAPTER Xm.
Toar of the Island, kc,

CHAITER XIV.
Tour of the Isl&nd—ixmtittued

APPENDEÍ.
Population Tables—Foundation of Hospitais-—Monicipal Iteccipts
and Eipenditure—Laws rclating to the Press —British Chap-
laiocy—Exports, ^:c. of Wine—Rcmarks oo CLiroato—Tables of
Monics, Weights, Measiires—Dutics—List of Furnished Hooscs,
Frices, &c.—Tables of Distantes, Altitudes, &c 165
 10° *>■

A XEIT MA 1»

raiE isLÁWjj oj shamuríl. Pf ò"." Mn

WJTJf THE RO&DS, &c-
ACrORDTNO TO THE LATEST SITRYEY. P! Castanheira
Ronda Colmiwl Pi Fedffí/al

í" Fttf<tn i\'Owlhti

P! tJardii
1 Wkh.tor»
P! HyuUia

VHLag*

Sc ale OT Kiigllah MÚO,

I l i

*en //„ul Loo Rocte *32° <J7 ' 4-à iV. Latitttiie
^ruscmi') J 16° â â' 2 O li' Lewujitud*
 MADEIRA.

——

CHAPTER I.
«ISTOKV 01 THE PISOOVBttr 05> MADEIUÂ — OENXRiL APFEAKAKCE OP
THE 1SLÁHD—HISTORY—POPVLAIION, ETÇ,

It appears doubtful whether the isknds of Ma-

deira and Porto Santo were not known to the early
Phoenicians, who, by order of Pharaoh Xeclio,
sailed from tlie Red Sea round Africa, and re-
turned by tlie Pillara of Hercules, 607 b.c., aiid
frequently (at a latcr period), with tlie Cartbagi-
nians, visited the north-weat coast of Africa beyond
Cape Bojador.
Herodotus, whom Cicero has called the Father
of Ilistory, mentions the " Islands of the Blesscd,"
sitnated cm the confines of tlie earth, in an oeean
warmed by the rays of the near-setting sim: and
Plutarch asserts, tliat Sartori us, when driven firam
Spaín, wifíhed to save himself and his attendants,
ater tlie loss of his fleet, on a group of two
tlantic islands, ten thousand stadia to the west of
the mouth of the Bastis. It haa been supposed
B
2 MADEIRA.
that he meant to designa te the two islands of Porto
Santo and Madeira, wMch were already indicated
by Pliny as the Purpurarias.1
Tlie romantic and probably fabtdotun narrative
of the discovery of Madeira, in 1344, by Eobert
Machin and his run-away bride, which has been
inserted in nearly ali the works hitherto published,
descriptive of the island, need not be repeated
here.
Accordíng to tbe most authentic modem ac-
counts, Madeira was discovered during tbe most
brilliant century of Portuguese bistory, by Joaõ
Gon salves da Camara, commonly called Zargo,3
and Tristão Vaz Taxeira, under the auspices of
Dom Henry, "the Conquistador," soe of King
.John I. of Portugal, in July, 1419; and so named
from its being clothed in the richest forest ver-
dura.3
Porto Santo, a small island lying about fifty
miles to the north-east of Madeira, had been acci-
dentally discovered during the previ ous ycar by
Bartholomeu Perestrello, an Italían, who had dis-
tinguished himself in the maritime serviee of Por-
tugal. While on a voyage to explore the western
coast of Africa, a violent storm arose, wliich carríed
his vesscl out of its course, and, after being tossed
1
See Humboldfn " Cosmos,"
1
Joaõ Gonsalves da Camara, nick named " Zargo," or " Squint-
cye," from a defect ia his eyes; he is, however, gene rally known
byJ the name of JoaS Gonsalves Zargo.
Madeira, in Portuguese, mcaning " wood."
 MADEIRA.
about for some days, wae cast in sight of Porto
Santo, where lie found shelter from the storm, and,
in joy for liis deíiverance, called the island by tliat
namc.1 Froni tlience a dark cloudy outline was
visíble on the horizon, which inspired Zargo and
hÍ3 companions with tlie idea of other territoríe;)
existing there, and induced tliem to stecr for the
spot; with little delay the ohject was aceom-
plished, and the point where they first niade the
land they named from tlieir yessel SaS Lourenço.
The great Christopher Coluinbus married Felippa
the daughter of Perestrello, the discoverer, and
afterwards govemor, of Porto Santo; and lie is
stated to have received, at the death of liis wife's
father, those documenta and memoranda which
stimulated him to engage in his subsequent voyage
of disco very, Columbue resided for some time at
Porto Santo, and, ít is said, made frequent voyages
or excursions to Madeira, for the purpose of traffic,
previous to those great expeditious which gave
such celehrity to his name, and opened to Europe
the Western World.
The island of Madeira lies between 32° 49' 44",
and 32° 37' 18" north latitude, and between
16° 39' 30" and 17° 16' 38" west longitude, from
Greenwich,1 ncarly 10° north of the Tropic of
Câncer, and three or four degrees beyond the usual
1
Porto-Santo, or Iloly-haveu.
* From nbservatíonB fumished by Captam Azevedo, a very dis-
lingniíhed engineer, who lias lately made a moat accurate rervej
oftbe island.
B2
4 MADEIRA.
limit of the trade wiiuls. In form ít is of an irre-
gular oblong quadrangle, presenting in its whole
circuit a series of boi d and rugged headlands, ex-
tending to an elevation, at Cape Giram, of ncarly
2,000 feet; and tapering off at its easíern extremity
to a long narrow point of bokl and rugged roeks,
lyiiig E.s.E. by compass. Its extreme length,
from Poínt Saõ Lourenço to Point do Pargo, is 9f
Portuguese leagues, or 32 geographical miles; its
greatest breadth, from Point da Cruz to Point Saõ
Jorge, is 12 geographical miles; and its circum-
ference, taken from one point to another, the in-
dentations being trifling, is only 77 miles.1 The
surfaee presents a singularly broken and mountain-
ous appearance on eveiy side, but more partieularly
towards the north, where the broad Bwell of the
Atlantic foams up against the base of roeks which
rise, almost perpendieularly, to an elevation of
some hundreds of feet. Life is given to the scene
by the many little villages at the mouths of the
ravibes, tlirougli wliich, during the heavy raíns of
autumn, the surrounding lieiglits pour their turbíd
torrents into the sea.* These waters, during the
summer months, appear like the transparent streams
from a clear spring, as they bubble along the roeky
bottom.
The whole formation of the island is of volcanic
origin; and the huge masses of basaltie roeks,
1
Observations by Csptain Azeredo.
' These moa atai n torrents constitute the " Ribeiras," or tivera
of the island.
 MADEIRA. 5
lying on burnt carthy matter, show in many placea
the action of fire on their surface. On approaching
from tlie north, the appearanoe is grand and pic-
turesque: the ahrupt and beetling craga and over-
hanging rocks, covered with ricli ycrdure to their
vcry aummits, frequently hid by tlie niisty vapours
and darker elouds, and at intervala showing their
rugged peaka far ahove; their rough ontline
thrown forward, and rendered more distinct, hy
the elouds below and the briglit "blue sky behind,
with the dark luxuriant foliage of the yine and
cliestnut-tree 011 the lower parts of the narrow
ridges and hrokcn ravines, affbrd probahíy one of
the finest glimpaes of scenery to bc met with in
any part of the world.
From the lofty and almost perpendicular sea-
clíff of Cape Giram, to the western end of the
island, the scenery along tlie eoast is somewhat
similar, in its geological aspect, to that of the
north, but without that rich verduie which is pro-
dueed hy the moister atmosphere on the conipara-
tively uneultivated mountain ridges of that si de of
the island. Tlie snrrounding heiglits appcar more
dry and arid, and the wild luxuriant foliage of the
cvergreen Til and Vinhatico give place to the
tame and compara tively unintereating view of
artificial terraces, with their sloping patchea of
trellised vines and atunted corn, depriving it of
that wild aspect of nature which ia ao grand and
imposing aiong the wliole hue of coaat faeing the
north. *
G MADEIRA.
The appearance of the coast from Poínt Saõ
Lourenço, the eastera promontory of the island,
towards Funclial, is, for some miles, exceedíngly
bleak and barren, except around the villages of
Machico and Santa Cruz, wliere more cultivation
exists. Both of these hamlets are beautifully sitn-
ated, at the cutlet of streams collected from the
various gorges of the mountains; and, especially
the former, witli steep and lofty hills rising abruptly
ou each síde, and toweríng upwards of 2,000 feet
behind. Large tracts of red and yellow tufas,
interspersed liere and there with clumpa of dark
pine-trees, cover the lofty hills; and the Iower
slopes are laid out in patchea of miserably thin
crops of grain, and stunted vines.
Abreast of Machico, and about 12 miles distant,
the Desertas, a elustcr of three small islands, rise
almost perpendicularly from the sea, and stretch
towards the south, appearing perfectly ban*en and
a ri d. They are only aecessible on one or two
points, and are rarely visited, cxccpt by the fisher-
men for the purpose of procuring sea-fowl, or feed-
ing a few goats during the winter moníhs, when
the moister atmosphere enables them to obtain a
scanty pasturage, The ascent is exceedíngly dif-
fieult, and ean only bc effected where the heavy
rains on the surface, in deseending towards the
sea, havc cut a deep gorge, and left it partty filled
with large stones and débris.
Before the end of the fifteenth eentury the island
of Madeira liad attained a high state of prosperity,
 MADEIRA. 7

and the fame of ita riches frequently excitcd the

rapacity of the numerouS cor sair 3 and adventurers
who, at that early period, frequented th© neigli-
bouring seas. Several attcmpts were made by
these freebooters to pillagc Funchal, but wíthout
success, till 1566, wheu a caiamity occurred which
injured the prosperity of the island for some time.
In that year a band of Huguenots from Roehelle
attacked the city with success, and during tlie
sixtcen days in which these " ladrões Franceses,'
French robbers, lield posscssíon of it, many of
the inhabitants sought refuge in the neighbouring
mountains. The following abridged account oi
this outrage is translated from an ancient MS. by
Doutor A. C. de Bettencourt e Vasconçellos, with
a perusal of which the author lias been kindly
favoured by Senhor Caetano d Araujo;
" On the 3d of October, 1566, while at peace
with France, and the island quiet and flourishing,
cight French galleons anehored at Praya iormosa,
ahout a league below Funchal, where, at dusk,
they landed upwards of a thousand armed men,
who, making a detour, dcscended upon the city by
the Achada, where the Peak-fort now stands.
Notice having been conveyed to Captain Francisco
Gonsalvcs, then acting as governor in the absence
of his nephew, Simão Gronsalves da Camara, Cap-
tain and Donatario of Funchal, who was then
rcsiding at Lisbon, he retired to the fortress of Saõ
Lourenço, which was armed with artillery for the
defence of the town. The inhabitants were so
 8 MA DEI EA.
taken by surprisc tiiat they could only muster a
few men, who resisted tlieir entrance at the gate of
São Paulo, now Sao Francisco. On the following
morning, sfter conaiderable fightíng, the French
became mas ter a of the city. Two hundred of the
inhahitants, and fifty of the French, fell m this
engagement. Tliey remai nect sixteen days, during
whieh time they loaded their galleona with what-
ever ricJies they could find. T]ie churches were
plundered, the imagea were burnt or broken, the
altars deatroyed, and the relics profaned. On their
entering to rob the church of Saõ Francisco, the
friars ali fled, and shut themselves in their cells;
and they could only seize on nine, who were im-
mcdiately put to dcatii, beside» one who died from
tear or spasms. A vessel was at once despatched
to Liabon, from Machico, to give noticc of this
invasion, and JoaÕ Gonsalves da Camara, son ot
the captain and donatario of the ialand, sailed
almost immediately to their succour, with a large
ileet, containing many nobles of the kingdom.
Before they arrived, however, the French had
already beeu gone six days, steering their vessek
towards the Canariea. They afterwards paaaed
the ialands of Terceira, but, knowing their poverty,
the inhabitanta were not disturbed; ao tfiat their
poverty proved riches to them at sucii a time."
After tlie usurpation of the throne of Portugal
by Piíilip II. of Spain, in 1580, the importa rice of
Madeira rapidly declined, till Don Joaõ IV, of
Portugal threw ofF the Spanish yoke, in 1640, and,
 MADEIRA. 9
by exeiting again the energy of liis subjects, raiscd
the Portuguese colouiea, in some measure, ftom
their fallcn state. Towards tlie end of the seven-
teenth century, when tlie naval power of England
became paramount on the seas, tlie connexion be-
twecu the island and tliat country became more
intimate, and its prosperity rapidly increased. It
was held, for a short period, by the British duiing
the Peninsular wars, in 1801, under Col. Clinton,
who arríved in the " Argo," Captain Boweil, with
severa 1 transporta eontaining a detacliment of
Britisli troops, and garrisoned the island, as allies
of Portugal, till tlie peace of Amiens was defini-
tively eigned in the following year. In December,
1807, General Beresford arríved in the " Centaur,"
Admirai Sír Samuel Ilood, with transporta con-
veying 4,000 troops, and took foreible possession
of tlie island, whieh was retained under the British
ftag till April, 1808, when it was again restored to
Portugal, though it continucd to be garrisoned by
British troops, to protect it again st Frcnch inva-
sion, till tlie general peace in 1814, when they
final ly evacuated the island.1
Madeira lias been long treated with neglect by
the suceessive Governments of Portugal, its coffers
drained for their extravagance, and its commerce
1
During the oceupation of the island, from IS07 till 3814,
the British troopa were quartered ia the Collegc Bsrracks, the
hncaraaçau Conrent (the nuns of whieh were passed over to
the Convent of Clara), lhe monastery of Saõ Francisco, and
the fortress of Sant' Iago.
B3
 MADEIRA,
in a measure ruined by the most ill-tiined and
delusive measure of raising its status from a colony
to the nominal dignity of a province, wíthont afford-
ing it any retributive advantage, or treating it as
an integral part of the kingdom. Its coiidition vvas
greatly improved during the short period it waa
held by the British, under the able administration
of General Beresford, in 1808.
The population of Madeira and Porto Santo, ac-
eording to the censua taken in 1849, amotmted to
110,084 persons ; of wliom the distriet of Fnnelial
contained 29,383,* ehowing a decrcase from the
een3ns of 1839, of 5,677. This diminution, how-
ever, is easily to be accounted for, by the eurrent
of emigration which has set in, since 1840, to
Demcrara and the various islands of the West
Iiidies; the returns for thesc ten ycars giving a
total of 19,230, exclusive of those wh o, from the
numerous impediments thrown in the way of emi-
gration by the authorities of Funchal, have left the
island clandestinely ; and it is computed tliat these
wiLl amount, at tlie lowest ealeulation, to 11,000
more.
The British resídent population, for the present
year, consista of 81 families, or householders, giving
a total of 317 persons.
1
Soe Appcntlix A.
 C1IAPTEU II.

APPEA. RANCE OP THE ISLÀND FROM THE ANCHORAGE— DBSCRIPTIOÍÍ

OF THE ANCHORAGE—IMPRESSIONS ON LANDINO—FUNCHAL : HIS-
TORT, CHURCHES, CONVENTS, ETC.

After passing Cape Garajáo,1 or the Brazen*-

head, as the Englisli residents call it, the city of
Funchal opens to view, facing tlie soutli, witK íts
wliite turre ted li ouses, appearing in tlie fonri of an
amphithcatre. Tlie bílis rise to a eonsiderable
elevation on cach side, increasing in hciglit as they
close behind, till they attain an elevation of up-
wards of 4,000 íect. They present numerons
ravines, and other irregularitiea of surface, whícli
are richly cultivated, wherever eultivation is prac-
tieable, and adorned with innumcrable "quintas,
or villas. At an elevation of ncarly 2,000 leet
behind the city, the church of Nossa Senhora do
Monte rears its double dome, out of a forest of
chestnut-trees; and from th is point the trellised
vines extend almost to the centre of the town.
To reach the anchorage off Funchal, sailing
vesscls geneTally keep well out from the land, alter
clearing Cape Garajáo, unless the wind blows
1
Kamed from " Garajáo/* a species of sea-gull; and " Brazen-
head/' from the reddiah colour of the rocks.
12 MADEIRA.
strong from tlie eastward, so as to reacli tlic
westerly sea-breeze, or embate}l as it is here ealled,
which prevails during nearly níne months of tlie
year, anel ig caused by the eddy formed by the
lofty hills, when the wind prevails from tlie north
or north-east. Tlie roadstead is open, and exposed
to ali the blasts from east to south-west, which at
times cause considerable destruetion among the
vessels at anelior, During the storms of winter
the sea rolls into the bay ivith fearful violence, and
should any of the vessels part their cables, or drag
their aneliors, during tliese southerly gales, there
is Iittlc chance of their escape. In the course of a
few hours, iu October 1842, no less tlian five
vessels came on sliore, besides one supposed to
liave gone down at her anchorage, as nothing was
ever secn of her after that fcarfní gale, cxcept a few
floating spars. To show lhe alacrity of tlie Por-
tuguese in rendering assistance on such occasions,
not a soul was lost on board of tliese vessels that
came on sliore, although the storm oceurred during
tlie riight. Again, in Decembcr 1848, five vessels
were east ashore, witliin a sliort períod of each
other, and only one person was lost—through his
anxiety to render assistance to his companíons,
whíle endeavouring to regaín the deek of his
vessel. In order to avoid these risks as mueh as
possible, sailing vessels usually anchor about a
quarter of a mile from the Loo Rock,' which
1
Embate, to bcat against.
* Called by the Portuguese, " Ilbeo/' email isl&nd.
 MADEIRA. 13
should tear about NN,e. by compass, from íta
affordiug good holding-gnnmd at a depth of from
twenty-fivc to thirty fathoms. By th la means they
are olear of the Points, and are general Iy able to
siip their cables aiid pnt to sea before the force of
the gale sets in. Steamcrs uaually anehor mucli
nearer the shore, haviíig none of these risks to
oontend again st, and affording greater convenience
for taking in coals.
The line of coast forniing what is called the
Bay of 1' unchai, though it scarcely menta the
mune, begins to reeede from the headland of Cape
Garajáo on the east, towards the city, a distanee
of about three mi los, and protrudes again more
rapidly towards Ponta da Cruz, to the west of
Funchal, with an indeutatlon of little more thaii
half a mile. Between Cape Garajáo and Fort
Sant' Jago, which form3 the eastem boimdary of
the town, the coast ia bold and abmpt, broken
only by one mountain gorge, at the outlet of
which the new quarantine establishment is situated.
I' rom the fort altuded to the rough shingly beach
eommenees, and extends as far as the Ribeira de
Saõ Paulo,1 tlic westera boundaiy, where it again
assumes its nigged and roeky character. Con-
tinuing to the westward for a short distanee, the
1 ontínha and Loo-rock, each crowned with a fort,
are prominent objeets from the anchorage. The
former is conneeted with the land hy a sort of
' ^eirlL <le Saa ?auio> gene rally called Ribeira de Sa5 Joaõ.
Pontinha/* or narrow point.
 14 MADEIRA.

brictge, or platform, while the latter, rising

abruptly, stands out about a gun-shot distant from
the high and roeky coaat behind, and affords an
uncertain slieltcr for small vessels while undcr
repair. Between this rock and the heights above
tlie Brazenhead a telegraphic communication is
kept up, and the approach of ali vessels annonnced,
by a code of signak from the fort, long before
tliey reaeh tke ancliorage, desígnating the class of
vessel, her nation, and the direction from which
she comes, or in which she first appears. Between
the Loo-rock and the town, the beautifnl Portu-
guese cemetery rears its slender cypress trees
along the verge of tlie cliff. The " Fortaleza," or
Governor'a palace, rising behínd the gardcn of tlie
Praça da Rainha, is also a conspicuous objeet; it
is built in varioas styles of arcliitecture, and more
resembles a barrack than the residence of a
govenior. Adjoining are the ruins of a mole, in
the construction of whiek some thirty tlioueand
dolkrs liave been thrown, or rather washed away;
the nature of the beacli affording no proper foun-
dation for snch an undertaking: nearly two-thirds
of it have already been destroyed by the force of
the sea. Passing eastward, the tall pillar, ori-
ginally built for unloading vessels,1 the custom-
1
Tliia column iras commcnccd in 1796, Vjy Mr. John Li^ht
Banger, ati English merehant, for thc purpoae of landing goods
ou the beaeb. The iiiea, however, proved a íailure. It waa
finiahed in 179S, at an cxpense of 6,600 dollars, npwarda of
1,360/. When first ereetcd, its liase waa washcd by the sea;
since that period, the intervening lieaeh has been thrown up.
 MADEIRA. 15

houae, and the Praça Académica, stand out from

the line of houses; while tlie conspicuous Peak-
fort, and Santa Clara convent, rear their barc white
walls behind the town, and the ehurch of " Our
Lady of the Jlount" shows its brigbt domes far
in the rear.
Vessels, on anchoring in the roadstead of Fun-
chal, are admitted to pratique by the healíh officers,
who put off from the sliore in a four-oared boat for
that purpose; and, liaving ascertained tliat ali the
papers are correct, come 011 board, and tlie ship
and passengers are elear of ali further iinpediment.
This boat ia foliowed by one from the custo m-
house, with two officcrs, who remain on board
while the vessel is discharging her cargo, or while
any part of it remains 011 board; and scores of
others in scareh of employment. Now, perhaps
for the first time, the visitor witnesses a foreign
scene, new to hini in every respect. The noiay
boatmen, full of eagerness, and jabbering in a
languagc quite unintellígible to most English eara;
theír curiously shaped, but clean and neat boats,
with long peaks rising some feet above the gun-
wale at botli ends, together with the bustle 011
board and the completely foreign aspect around,
strike one with admiration and astonishment, and
render the scene in many respccts exceedingly
amusing. On landing, the visitor is struck with
tbe cliange which a few days at sca have effected;
everytlimg appears new to him; the houses, the
streets, the iuliabitants, and tbe climate, ali wear a
 16 MADEIRA,

foreign appearance, and differ ao materially from

those he lias just left, tliat lie can searcely believe
in the reality of tlic scene: the absence of ali
wlieeled veliicles, the want of trafíie and bustle,
gíve the plaee more the resemblancc of an iuland
town, tlian the usually active and busy port of an
island.
Captam Marryatt tlius graphically describes the
sensations of a visitor on arriving here for the first
tiine :—" I do not know a spot ort the globe wliich
so astonishes and delights, upon fírst arrival, as
the Island of Madeira. The yoyager embarks,
and is in ali probability confined to his cabin, suf-
fering under the dreadfol prostration of sea-sick-
ness. Pcrhaps lie lias left England in the gloomy
elose of autumn, or the frigid concentration of an
English winter, In a week he again views tliat
terra-firma which he had quitted with regret, and
wliich, in his sufferings, he would have given half
that he possessed to regam. When he lands upon
the island, what a ehange! winter lias become
summer; the naked trees which hc left are ex-
eliangcd for the luxuriant and varied foliage; snow
and frost for warnith and splendour; the scenery
of the temperate zone for the profusion and magni-
ficence of the tropics; a hright blue sky; a glowing
sun; liills eovered with vines; a deep blue sea; a
pícturesque and novel costume; ali meet and de-
liglit the eye, just at the precise moment when to
have landed on a banen island would have been
considcred a luxury."
 MADEIRA. 17

The operation of landing at Funchal is, at

times, rather excíting, especially to tíiosc accns-
tomcd to the many faeilities of tlie English ports.
Should the se a be at ali rough, or a heavy swell
setting in, the process ia gencrally effeeted at the
Pontinha, under the protection of the Loo-rock,
where, watching the rising swcll of the sea, the
opportunity is seizcd to step quietly on shore; and,
ascending a flight of steps, tlic bridge or platform
which connects the rock with the shore is reachcd.
Horses and palanquins are gencrally to be found
here on such occasions, to convey the passcngera
to town, a distance of about lialf a mile. The
necessity of landing at the Pontinho, however,
rarcly occurs, except in the case of passe ngers
arriving by tlie Brazil steam packets, whose short
detention obliges theír getting on shore. as sj>eedily
as possible. When the weather ia such that the
sailing packets cau come to anclior, the landing is
easily and safely effeeted, and it is rarely other-
wisc. Although a swcll may set in sufficient to
cause a considerable surf along the bcach, the
boatmen manage admirably, and it is a raie occur-
rence that one is disturbed evcn by the spray. On
arriving close to the bcach, the boat is turned with
its steni towards tlie shore, and the rowers, ivith
their nether gannents tuckcd up, watch the oppor-
tunity, as one of the larger waves rolls in, to back
the boat on its boiling crest, till it touehes the
shingly bcach j then, leaping out, with the assist-
ance of one or two others on shore, they pull their
 18 MADEIRA.
craft, passengers and ali, high and dry on the st rand.
The great object during this process Í8 to remam
still and qniet, for íf a leap from the boat be
attempíed, a ducking is almost sure to follow.
These precautions are not, however, always neces-
sary, the sca being frequently so smooth tliat one
may step on shore from the boat, without the
neeessity of being hauled up with it on the beaeh,
Funchal, the capital of Madeira, was so named
by tbe discoverers of the island, from the extensive
beds of "funcho," or fennel, which grew on the
spot where the town was afterwards erected. It
lies in 32° 37' 45" north latitude, and 16° 55' 20"
west longitude, from Greenwichdistant, by ship's
eourse, about 1,325 miles from Southampton, 535
from Lisbon, 625 from Gibraltar, 380 from the
coast of Africa, and 260 north of Santa Cruz, in
the island of Teneriffe. The situation ivas selected
by Zargo, between whom and Tristão Taxeira the
island was nearly equally divided by Don Joaõ I.
on their return to Lisbon, after tiíeir successful
voyage of discoveiy; the former receiving the
family name of CamaTa, and the appointment of
Capitaõ e Donatario (captam and grantee) of tlie
district of Funchal, conferred on him and liís heirs.
Tristão heíd a similar appointment at Machico,
where he built the first church erected on the
island, and dedicated it to Christ. This church is
known at the present day as Machin's Chapei. His
captaincy, in default of heirs, reverted to the crown
L
From obaervaticns taken at the Loo voei, by Capt. Azeveio.
 MADEIRA. 19

in 1540. The spiritualities of the island had been

made over in perpetuity to tlie Ordcr of Clirist, by
Dom Jolirt I, and tlie gift was eonfirmed by Pope
Eugene IV, in 1442. The first church erected in
Funchal was dedicated by Zargo to Santa Ca-
tharinaand that of Nossa Senhora do Calliío
followed, though th is latter is generally, but erro-
neously, supposed to have l>een the first. In 1508
Santa Cruz and Calheta® were established as towns,
and Funchal was, by Royai Charter of 21 st August,
raised to the dignity of a city, with a " Camara,
or munieipality, possessing privileges equal to
those of Lisbon. In 1514, it was made a bishopric,3
and by a buli of Paul III, of Sth January, 1539,
was clevated to tlie dignity of an arehbislioprie.
Tíiis position, liowever, it only retaincd till that of
Goa was erected, in 1547.* The present Sé, or
cathedral, was built by Dom Emanuel, King of
Portugal, and opened in 1508, duríng the eaptaincy
of Simaõ Goncalves da Camara, surnamed " O Mag-
nifico," the third in descent from Zargo: the build-
ing was commenced in 1485, but waa not completed
till 1514.* The style of arehitecture is Italian-
Gothic, and the upper part of the square tower, or
spire, is covered with glazed tiles. In the interior
there is little worthy of notice, except it be the
curious and ricli ceiling, formed of the cedar-wood

De Freitas, and Vasconeellos' MSS. (To the west of Funchal.)

2
Vasconcollos* MS.
3
Vasconcellos' MS.; Cordeyro, Hist. Insulana, lib, iii,
1
* Vasconcello!' MS. Ibid.
 20 MADEIRA.
of the ia]anel. The invasion and short occupation
of tlie island by the Freneh freebooters, (already
alluded to,) during the reign of Dom Sebastian, in
1566, was folio wed by the arrival of the Jesuits.
The tir^t of tliat order accompanied the expedition
sent from Lisbon for the relief of the city.1 They
eatablished a college of their order in 1570, which
they held till their expulsion by Don Jozé, in 1758.
1 hey aíso hnilt the church of ÍS. Joaô Evangelista,
uow known as the " Igreja do Collegio," or College
church, ornamented in front with the statues of
St. Ignatius and St. FrancÍ3 Xavier, the cliiefs of
their order, and two others of nunor note. In its
internai arrangements there is little to attract
notíce, cxcept its rich and gorgeous altars. The
interior of the church of Sao Pedro has much the
sanic appearance; and with that of the Soccorro,
and tlie otlier churehcs of the island, possesses no
attraction, in paintíngs or ornament, worthy of
nptice.
Among the convents and monasteriça of Madeira,
tliosc of the Franciscan order (which includee the
nunneriea of Santa Clara and N. S. da Encarnaçtó)
1
" Ia company with JoaS Gonsalves da Camara, in his veesel,
and at his table, an envoy of the Society of Jesus, aamed Fran-
cisco axera, a Castilian priest of great learuing, was sent from
Liílion, for the lervioe of God, to preach in thís island, wherc he
mel with great snecess : he was the fim of his orcler who arrived
in the íaland, and, by hia devotion, persuaded the people to
petition the King, Dom Sebastian, to establieh a college for
his order at Funchal, to tcach and instrnet tlieir sons " Vos-
concílios' MS.
 MADEIRA. 21

lield the most conspicuous plaee. The latter were

snppressed, and their possessions eonfiscated by
the Government, ín 1834, ivhen the island passed
into the power of Don Pedro, on the final over-
throw of hÍ9 brother, Don Miguel. At that period,
and also during the ehort reign of the Constitu-
tional Government in Madeira, in 1822, the nuns
were permitted to leave their eonvents; and a few
availed t liem sei ves, for a time, of the privilege, but
retumed again to their cloistexs, after a sliort en-
joyment of the vrorld's gaiety. The cclebrated
recluso, Maria Clementina, to wliose history Cole-
ridge has imparted such interest, still livea in the
eonvent of Santa Clara, among some forty-eiglit of
her sisterhood.1 She ia now somewhat advaneed
in life, and few, if any, traces remain of tliat beauty
whieh our poet so warmly deseribed. These nuns
support themselves, in a great measure, by the
manufacture, and sale, at the gratings of their re-
eeption rooms, of artificial flowers and fruits, with
a few other ornamental productions. The former
are usually made of dyed feathers, and the firuit of
wax, and are prized by many visitors as affording
a pleasing souvenir of their sojourn in Madeira.
The eonvent of tlie Encarnaçaõ, endowed in
1
This eonvent is crccted oa the site of the church of íí. S. da
Couceiçau de Cima, the third church built by Zurgo, and in it
hia remaina are said to be deposited. It is a largc and irregular
pile of btiildiugs, overlooting the town, and derives a limited
income from property held by the sisterhood ia and aliout the
Curral.
22 MADEIRA.
166(3, by Henrique Calassa de Viveiros, a cânon
of the clrarcli, contains about twenty-five nuns,
who support themselves as tliose of Santa Clara.1
No vices being no longer admitted into these esta-
blishment s, the inmates are gradually decreasing
in number; and their little property will, eTC long,
be in possession of the Government. The Convent
of Bom Jesus affords a temporary asylum to young
widows and deserted uives. That of the Capu-
chas, or Sisters of Mercy, contains about twenty-
seven inmates, who are considered the most rigid
observers of their monastic vows; they attend to
ali their menial vork themselves, employing neither
servants nor assistants, and seldom reeeive visits,
even from their relatives.
1
Tlio founder of ikis convent gave up Lis quinta, or villa, as
a site for the buildíng, whicb be bad promised to dedicate to
N. S, da Encamaçaõ.
 CHAPTER 111.

DESCRIPTION OP FUNCHAL—RIBEIROS— INUNDATIONS—PRAÇAS—BEACH

— CARREIRA — ENflLISH CHAPEL — CEMETERIES — HOSPITALS—OLD
BUILDINGS—MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT—OARRISON—IMPROVKMENTS,
ETC.

Tiie general appearanee of the city of Funchal

is by no means prepossessing. The streets are
irregularly built, and payed with small rounded
pieees of basal t, about the sízc of an egg, procured
from tlie beacli; and with rough broken pieces of
the sanie material, so as to afford a firmer footing,
where any considerable aseent exists. The larger
and more respectable class of housea are inter-
spersed with thoae of a small and shabby appear-
ance, and are generally provided with balconies,
which afford a gay and lively siglit on " festas," or
holidaya, whcn they are usually crowded with the
bright-eoloured dresses and sparkling eyea of the
Portugueae ladies. The lower parta are usually
oeeupied as wine storea; and the streets appear
narrow to those unaeeustomed to foreign towns ; at
the same time, they are remarkably elean, and kept
in good order and repair.
The town is intersected by three river3, gene-
rally dry during the summer montlis, but rolling
down in torrents, for short intervala, and with im-
 24 MADEIRA.
mense velocity, during the usually heavy rains of
autnmn; oftcn bcaring cnormous bonlder stones
along with their turbid waters, and, at times, car-
rying away bndges in their course, and inundating
the lawer parts of the tom. One of these fíoods
occurred in October 1803, during the night, which
in a great measure, destroycd the eastern part of
the cky. The clinrch of N. S. do Calháo, the
seeond churcli built by Zargo, which stood at the
end of Rua da Santa Maria, on the site of the
present western fruit-markct, and many neighbour-
ing houses were carried away. One of these,
inhabited by an English family named Tatlock|
near the Pelourinho Square,1 was carried bodily
into tlie sea, and, the npper part being of wood,
floated about for a considerable time with the líghts
still glimmering from the windows: not a soid of
this househoid eseaped. The rivers were not then
protected by those strong walla which now hem in
their currents, as tliey pass through the city, and
the loss of life and property was in eonsequence
very grcat; above three hundred sonls perished,
and heaps of dead osen, slieep, and domestic ani-
mais filled the streets, and lay scattcred along the
beaeh in the vicinity of the river which caused such
devastation.
^ A like cala mi ty occurred from the overflowing
of the same river, and during the same month, in
1842, which, although the destruction of property
1
In the centre of this square the pillory formerly eiisted; it
was tiemoliahed about geyentoen ycara ago.
 MADEIRA. 25

was great, waa by no means attended with sucli

fearful resulta, as the mass of water carne down
during the day. Thesc torrente are. kept 111 their
eourse, under ordinary cireumatanccs, by strong
t.hick walls; their beds being at a depth oí from
ten to twenty feet below the levei of the adjoíning
streets, which however slope down in many cases
to a line with the bed of the torrent. Most òf
theae rivers have pleasant walks along their raised
banka, shaded with large overliangmg plane-trees,
whose branehes almost meet over the centre of the
channel. Under their shade the washerwomen ply
their task, and hammer the linen entrusted to
their tender mercies, at a most destructive rate,
agaínst the large rough pieces of rock; and when
the clothes are laid out to dry in the sun, the bed
of the river appears as if eovered with a sheet of
snow.
The Praça Académica, and the Praça da Bainha,
lying along the margin of the sea, and the Praça
da Constituição, in front of the cathedral, afford a
pleasant resOTt and lounge for the invalid. They
are delightfnily shaded with rows of fine trees,
and provided with benehes for the repose of the
weary. At one or other of t lie se promenades, the
military band usnally plays during the afternoons
of the Sundays and festas. The native inhabitants
tlien appear in ali their finery, and many of the
English residents and visitots take their evening's
<?troll, while listening to the airs discoursed by
the Portugnese band, and inhaling the fumes of
C
 •Hl MADEIRA.
horrid tobaceo from the holiday cígars of the per-
imi bui a ti ng sprigs of fashion around, who, in
gloves of ali bright hues, delight in Tshowing off an
article in the forni of a real Havannah, ou ali sucii
public occasion3.
Along the beacli the seene ía extremely aiii-
mated, espeeialiy ou the raarket days, when the
httle fleet of country boats arrives from the dif-
ferent village-ports of the island. Theae craft are
often gaudiiy painted, aiid managed by a strong
Hwarthy set of beings, more like savages tiian the
inhabitants of a civilized country. They are
a Imos t in a state of nature while employed in
landing or receiving their eargoes, and dive under
the breakers, as they pass from the shore to their
boats, as if they were ampliibious. In íact, the
boatmen generally, and the ehildren living ncar
the beaeh, are almost as much at home in the
w ater as the fish themselves. The wine aniving
in ^asks by these boats is thrown overboard a
short way off the beach, and floated on shore, from
wbence it is conveyed in bnllock-sledges to the
varra» stores. Ali the cartage in the im meei iate
neighbourliood of the town is effeeted on these
sledges; tliat over the eonntry is usually aílotted
to a sinal 1 raee of mules, scarcely larger than an
ordinary sized donkey—but the loads they carry
are reallv astonishing. Tiie oxcn are exceedingly
quiet and docile, much more so than their d ri vera,
who are a most noísy and boisterous set, raising
their stentorian voices to a pitch quite deafening to
 MADEIRA. 27

English ears, as tliey goad their poor animais

along, with tlieir usual call, " Ca-para-mim-boÍ1—
ca—ca—ca—oá." These animais are usual ly pre-
ceded by a boy, whose low sharp note ciúmes in at
intervala with the gruffer tone of tlie driver io the
rcar, who, besides his goad, carries a wet clotli, to
drop under the sledge from time to time, so as to
prevent ita heatíng, and cause it to glide more
smoothly along the Street
The Carreira, the principal street, interseets the
chy from east to west. At its upper extremity, in
the Eua da Bel la-vi ata, the British chapei stands
enelosed in a beautiful and carefully-kept garden-
ground, and completely closed in with trees and
various tropical plants. The gronnds fov thii
chapei were purchased by the British Factory, in
1810, at a eost of 5,435 dollars, to which an addi ■
tional picce was added some years later, at a:i
expense of 840 dollars, for the purpose of ereetin^
a house for the clergyman, which, however, ha -
never yet bcen cffected. The chapei was built by
subscriptions raised among the pernianent British
residents, and avoluntary impost of 600 rs., eqnal
to 2s. Gd, per pipe, ou ali wines exported by then:.
From want of funds, and various other difficultic; .
it was not opened for public worship tilí Marcli,
1822, at a total cost of not less than 40,000 dollars.
nearly 10,000/. sterling. The building Was d( ■
signed, and its crection superintended, by the lat ■
cônsul, Mr. Veitch; and the laws of Portugal, at
0
i Come to me, oxen—come—come—come.
c 2
28 MADEIRA.

that period, not permitiing it to lie raised in the

form of a church, it does not possess the appear-
ance outwardly of a place of worsliip. It is of the
puré Ionie order, exceedmgly chaste and neat, and,
in its internai arrangements, well suited to the
climate; altliough now foiuid rather small for the
increased influx of visitors during the w inter.1
The two eemeteries, known as the " llesidents' "
and " Strangers'" burying-grounds, are eiitered a
little fuither up the Carreira. The ioruier, a small
triangular piece of ground, opened in 1764,1 is, as
ita name imports, general ly reservcd for the
families of the permanent residents. The latter,
nearly adjoining, was purehased by the British
Faetory, during the administration of General
Beresford in 1808, and was first used for the
1
Previous lo the present eentury, the Biitisb merchants,
altliough a uumcrouB body, wcre witbout the serviços of a resi-
rient clergyman ; and on the occasíon of vessels arriving in port
with a chaplaiu on board, he was requestei to perform churcb
servic« at the eonsul'8 residente, during the Sundays he re-
mained; and was usually remunerated by the Faetory with a
present of a box of preservei citron, Yulue, ia 1714, bíi dollaTs.
(See Appendix B.}
1
Previous to the oponing of this burying.grotmd, the bodies
of ali Protestante dying ia Madeira irerê, throngh the bigotted
prejudices of tbc Portuguese govemment, obliged to be carried
out to sea for burial, atid it was not till tbe establishment of an
indepcndent British cônsul ato, tbat this law was nhrogated ; and
even then, so strong were the prejudices of the nativos, it waa
necessary for some years to einploy a guard of soldiers, who
aeeompaoiod tbe funeral procession to the eenictery, to proteet
the party from insult, This ground was then called the " Oraoge-
tree," or Larangwa, by the Portuguese.
 MADEIRA.. 29

British troops, then garri soning the island. It is

considerably larger than the other, surrounded
with tall cypress-trees, and the various tombw
covered with the beautiful and sweet - scented
heliotrope, geranium, rose, and otlier plants, o ver
which the datura hangs its dark foliage, and
drooping snow-white flowers. Altogether, this spot
has a pleasing, though melaneholy appearance, and
one lingers, not unwillingly, among its ricli and
fragrant flowers, while reading with sadness the
simplé tale of many wh o, in the bloom and joy
of youth, having sought these shores for a relief to
their sufferings, througli the influence of ita balmy
climate, and far removed from the endearing ties
of friends and liome, have only found that relief
in the grave.
" Yet, embkm of the soul, sweet flowers aro spriogine
In silvery beauty from the dreary eod;
They whisper thus, that ali our spirits winging
Their way o'er death ehall blosaom yet with God."
D. Movrt.
The Portuguese cemetery, at the Augustina,
opened in 1841, is also worthy of notiee. In
beauty and símple neatncss it almost surpassea the
more secluded Protestant grounds, and contains
many ehaste tombs, neatly enclosed, and ein-
bosomed in flowers. Previou3 to its being opened,
the inteTmenta took place in the cathedral, and
otlier eliurches, 011 the floors of which the inserip-
tions over many tomba of fornier generations may
be dístinetly traeed.
30 MADEIRA.
Tlic Hospital of Saõ Lazaro, for lepers, is
situated to tlie east of tlie Portuguese cemetery,
anel near the se a. The number of patients averages
from thirty to thirty-five, most of wliom are from
the distriets of Ponta do Sol, and Ponta do
Pargo.1
Tlie Santa Casa âa Misericórdia, or Hospital of
Funchal, a large and cornmodious bnilding, ex-
tending along the northern side of the Praça da
Constituição, was erected in 1685; although much
negleeted, and its funda in a most unsatisfactory
state, it still receives from sixty to eighty patients.3
Attached to this hospital stands the convent of
Santa Isabel, with its grated windows, built in
1726; and aftbrding au asylum for feinale orphans,
whose exit is only permitted on a prospeet offering
for theír settlement in life, eitíier by marriage or
as domestie aervants.
At the western extremity of the same Praça,
stands the monastery of Saõ Francisco,3 with its
bare and noiv roofless walls. Since the suppression
of the order of its former worthless in mates, it has
been made little use of, and is now falling into
ruins. Its boildings are overlooked by the " For-
taleza," the buhvark of Saõ Lourenço, where the
great struggle was earried on between the inha-
bitants and the " Huguenot invaders," already
1
i See Appcndix C. See Appcadii D.
3
The Monastery of St. Francisco was establisbed by Zargo ;
it waí the largest on the island, and on it the othera werc
dependent.
 MADEIRA. 31

alluded to, The buildinga attached to Sao Lou-

renço were greatly altered, and part entirely ve-
built, during their occupation by General Beresford,
as govemor of the island, in 1808, and stíll forni
the residencea of the civil and military governora.
In one of thc saloons there are several partraits, in
oil colonrs, of the early captains of Funchal; onc
of tlieae, representing a person of long thin features
and grave aspect, is said to be an excellent likcness
of Zargo,
A apaeíoua theatre formerly oceupied the greater
part of thc square, at the entrance of the " Forta-
leza;" and, thougli thc English merchants held
considerable abares in the building, it "was pulled
down without their conaent or remnneration, by
order of the Portugueae Government, in 1833, to
facilitate tlie defeneea, dnring the occupation of the
island by the troope of Dom Miguel.
There are several curious old buíldings still re-
maining in Funchal; one in Rua <la Boa A iagein,
which, from the figurea cut on the stones forming
the windows, ia by many aupposed to bave been
the Açougue, or meat market. The great Chris-
topher Columbua, who reaided for some time in
tbe neighbouring island of Porto Santo, wbere bis
wife posaessed a small property, ís said to bave
sojourned, during bis trading voyagea to Madeira,
in a bouse at the corner of Rua Dereita, leading
towards the Carmo; but which lias been removed
during the present year. Some claim this ceie-
brity for a laTge building in the Rua do Esmeraldo,
32 Madeira.
kiiown as the " granel do poçoand others for a
house fbrmerly existing near the Socorro. Little
reliance can be pláced on these contradictory tradí-
tions, but the "granel do poço" liavíng been
employed as the custom-house long previous to
the erection of the present buildings, at the close
of the sixteenth century, rendera its claim the most
doubtful of the three; and the acknowledged po-
verty of the great discoverer would certainly point
to a less ostentatious edifice as his place of abode.
The cityof Funchal is govemed hy a" Camara,"
or municipal hody, consisting of seven memhers,
each of whom must posses s an annual income of
not less than 400 dollars; and the suffrage ex-
tends to ali possessing an income of 100 dollars
per annum. The Administrador do Conçelho,
or chief m agis trate of police, holds his appoint-
ment from the Crown. The town is plentifully
supplied wítli excellent water, and the streets are
clean, and well clrained by covered seweru, having
small stone gratings, at short distances from each
other, along the centre of the streets, towards which
the pebbled pavements have a slight inclination,
Tlie garri son eonsists of a detachment of 450 to
500 men, including officers; and (witli a small
eorps of artillery) are under the orders of a military
governor, and the command of a colonel.
Tlie present civil governor, Senhor José Silvestre
Ribeiro, lias done much towards the iraprovement
of the town during the few years that he lias had
the direction of íts internai affairs, The roads
 MADEIRA. 33

having been put in a state of better repair, now

communications opened, the streets more thoroughly
cleaned, tlie sewers improred, and a series of oil-
lamps placed at the comera of the different streets,
afford a proof of the ínterest he has takeii in im-
proving the condition and appearance of the district
under his more immediate charge. Au asylnm
for the poor was established in 1847,1 under bis
auspices, which has tended to remove the Joath-
some multitudes who infested the streets, thruating
their scars and sores ínto the face of every stranger
as he landed on the beach, or passed througli tlie
town.
Tlie ineome of the Camara, or munieípality of
Funchal, for the year ending 30th June, 1850,
amounted to 30,818 dollars, againat 26,820 dollars
of the previous year.1 Of thia amount a large por-
tion ia expended in the support of foundlings; in
repaíring the roads, streets, &e., and in aalaries.
1
The number of panpera fed and clothed in this establishment,
which ía entireiy fupported hy voluntary eontribntions, ave raies
about 200. lu January ] S51, the rcfurr. ■ gave—
Males under twelve years of age ... 22
Males above twelve do. ... 51
— 73
Fcmalcs under twelve yearu of age ... 23
FemalcK above twelve do. ... 38
- 121
5
Total 194
See Appendii E.

c3
 CHAPTEll IV.

1N0ABITANTS-1—1IAXNER3 Ali D CUSTOMS—MCSIC—LlTKRATURE, ETC.

FhoíI the rugged nature of the roads iu Madeira,

tlie intercourse betvveen the different distriets is
greatly restrieted, and the inhabitants are gene rally
ignorant of ali that is passing in the world around.
Their prejudicea are usual ly strong, and they
are stubbornly opposed to nearly ali the modem
improvements of civilize d life: as their ancestors
did, so are they eontented to do.
The Madeirese are generally about the middle
stature, and well fonned. The eomplexíon is more
swarthy than that of the natives of tlie raother
eountry, and, in many, a Moorish lineage can be
traced. Their eyes are large and expressive, and,
like their hair, almost invariably blaek. The men
are hardy and athletic, and decidedly handsomer
tlian the women, wh o have, even wlien young, an
aged and haggard appearanee, from the sedentary
life they lead, and the early age at which they
arrive at maturity. The iiard-workcd peasantry,
liowever, freqnently form a striking exeeption;
they enjoy a deeided advantagc over the higher
classes in personal appearanee; and, among the
tribe of females arriving froni the mountains, with
 MADEIRA. 35
auppliea of fuel, &c. on their heads, fine featuree,
as well as handsome and erect figures, are com-
monly met with. To strangera, as well aa to each
other, tliey are exceedingly cívíl and polite—tiie
peasantry seldom passing along tlie voada without
a recognition, accornpanied by the rcnioval of their
" carapaça," a funnel-shaped cap, wliich is worn
with considerable addresa, its long peak slightly
inelined towards the right, The dress of íhe la-
bouring cl as 3, or peasantry, ia exceedingly pietu-
resqnc. Tlie wonteti usualiy wear a garment of
printed calíco, or atriped linsey-woolsey petticoat
of island manufacture, with a red or bine baize
cape bornid with some lighter colour. The dress
of the men generally eonsists of a pá ir of loose
linen trousers, and a shirt, fastened at the neek
with gold studs; in town, a gaudy-coloured waiat-
coat, and a short jaeket thrown over the left
shoulder, à la houssard, complete the toilet. A
long stiek, to assíst them in clímbing the hilK is
a necessary adjunct; and the carapuça and yellow
boots are alike worn by both sexea. They are
generally eheerful, good-natured, sober, and eon-
tented; and the idea of politicai rights seldom
enters their heads. Aets of violence are rarely
resorted to, aaaaaainations and burglaries are almost
unknown, but petty thefta are coramon, anti strief
honesty is rarely met with. Their huckstering
and bargaining dispositious are strongíy developed,
and dome3tie servants are particularly pronc to
take every advantage that may offer in marketing.
36 MADEIRA.

There is extreme distress and misery existing

among the humbler class; and, in excursions
through the island, the visitor is frequently sur-
rounded with crowds of mendicants, rnany of whoia
are almost in a state of nudity, and their emaciated
appearauce shows plainly the miserabie existence
they must lead. Begging is a favourite oeeupation
with ali the lower orders} and the first lesson the
infant receíves is, to lift its tiny hands in the at-
titude of supplication, and prononnce the usual
appeal for "<7-63 reisinhos pelo amor de Deos"1
The standard of religion is exceedingly low.
The priests are careless and indifferent, and devoid
of ali energy. They received a slight stimulus,
wliieh, however, induced in many cases an active
perseeution, during the sojourn of Dr. Kalley, from
1840 to 1846; but since his violent ejection frora
the island, they have gradually reverted to their
formcr state. The nuraerous conversíons effected
through his aetivity were trnly astonishing, and
inany were obliged to emigrate to the West Indies,
to avoid the bigotted persecutions raised against
thera through the influence of tlie priesthood,
leaving large tracts of industríously cultivated land
to negleet and ruin. Others, who with singular
firmness adhere to the more enlightened faith they
have adopted, still remain on the island, but sub-
ject to ali those annoyances and petty persecutions
whieh are even increased by the latest edicts of a
government calling itself constitutional, whieh
* " A email ten-rei piece for the love of God." 10 r$. =
 MADEIRA. 37

impose fines and impriscmment on any individual

wbo should venture to express a doubt of the truth
o£ dogmas taught by the Church of Rome, or de-
fend any of the doctrmcs condemned by that
church.1
The island had been for aeveral years without
any resident biahop till the arrival of the preaent,
who was duly installed, with ali the pomp and
pageantry attending such ceremonies, iu Novem-
ber, 1850; hut it is to be feared that the j ealousy
and continuai interference of the clergy, will make
his situation as unpleasant as bis predecessora have
found it. It is to be hoped that his example and
activity may stimulate them to energetic and more
usefu.1 labours.'
The peasantry are still a superstitious race, be-
lieving in the effieacy of charms, &c.; thougli
perhaps ín this respect they do not surpass the
more ignorant of our own country, Their reli-
gious processions, of whieh there are many during
the year, especially at E as ter time, are objecte of
great pride and veneration; and the penitential
processions, that accompany the prayers for rain,
or other dcsirable changcs of weather, are a truly
painful sight. Thcir vows in siekness or misfor-
tune are strictly fulfilled, and walking in proces-
aion, loadcd witli bars of iron and lieavy chains,
or, among fcmales, climbing over the sharp-pointed
stones. and long fliglit of steps, towards the Mount
1
See Appeodii F, for citract of these lawa.
1
See Appendii 6.
 38 MADEIRA.
Chureh, on their bare knees, are examples of their
supera ti tious practiees on these occssions.
The distai? is still ín use, and the women em-
ploy their spare time ia the manufacture of eoarse
linen and linsey-woolsey. The other manufactures
of the island are straw-hats, baskets, laee-work,
and embroidery, in which the natives excel; and
at the conveuts the nuns find employment in
ma king feather-ílowers, preserves, and wax-work.
tíhoemakers and cabinet-makers are the most nu-
merous class of artizans, and their work is usually
good and cheap.
Though fond of musie, the natives of Madeira,
from the various politicai changes, have lost mueh
of their former enthusiasm. The instrumenta in
cominou use are the maehête, or mackêtinho, tlie
Spanisli guitar (viola Françesa), the guitarra, or
old English guitar, with six double wires, and the
violiu (rabeca). The maehête is peculiar to the
island; it is a small guitar, with four strings of
eatguí, which are tuned in thirds, with the excep-
tiou of the two lower, which have an interval of a
fourth. Tliis instrument is used by the peaaantry
to accompany the voice and the dance. The music
eonsists of a succession of simple chords, but, in
the hands of an accomplished player, the maehête
is capable of mueh more pleasing harmony; and
the etranger is sometimes agreeably surprised to
hear the fashionable music of our ball-rooms given
with considerable eífect, on what appears a very
insignifieant instrument. The Portuguese have
 MADEIRA. 39

uiany exquisite vocal melodies {modinhas), but the

kind of singing in vogue among the peasantry oi'
Madeira scarcely deserves the name oí' music. To
an English ear it more frequently resembles a pro-
longed liowl. Tlie singer commeuces at the top of
his voice, holds on his high note as long as he cari
with one breath, and only descenda to the bottoni
of the scale when the lungs are exhausted. Yet,
to a Madeirese, therc is something pecnliarly ex-
eiting in this kind of singing.
On account of the rugged nature of the roads,
nearly ali the burthcns are carried throogh the
country on the shoulders of the peasantry, who
generally travei in gangs. One of the party leads
off with an extempore cliallenge to some one else,
who howls his response, and thus an amusing con-
versation is kept up, whicli seems to lighten tlieir
loads, and relieve the fatigues of the journey. The
weight caiTied by these liardy mountaineers is
truly astonishing; a load of 200 to 250, or even
300 ponnds, is by no raeans nneomnion ; and with
these loads tliey will pass along the rough and
steep paths of the island, from one side to the
other, without mucli seeming fatigue.
Literature niakes but a poor figure, evcn among
the noniinally educated classes. Few possess any-
thing like a library, and even a book is seldom secn
in the hands of youth, after their scholastie studies
have ceased, unless it be a transladou from the
works of Eugene Sue, Paul de Kock, or some
similar anthor. Tliey appear to know nothing of
40 MADEIRA.

the history or laws of the small island they iiave

been reared upon, and are particularly ignorant of
geography, and the manners and cuatoms of foreign
countries. There are, however, exceptions to this
descriptíon, and some few are to be met with wh o
have profited by travelling abroad, and who deplore
tlie prevailing ignorance of the mass of their
conntrymen.
 CHAPTER V.

CIOLOGY— NATURAL HISTOHT—IRJIIOATÍÔN—AGRJCULÍUItE, ETC.

In an excellent memoir on the geological formation

of the island of Madeira, published in the Journal
of the Geological Society,1 Mr. Smith, of Jordan
Ilill, says : "The crust of the island of Madeira is
eomposed, to the deptli of séveral thousand feet,
of subaèrial volcanic matter, erupted during the
tertiary period; and perhaps no other volcanic
region ofFers more favourable opportunities for in-
vés tigation. To account for its rugged and frag-
mentary character, it ia not necessary to have
reconrse to the supposition that Madeira ia one of
the remai tis of a vast continent, as there are, in the
volcanic constitution of the island, and in the
action of the mountain torrents, sufficient elements
to afford data for explaining every physical pheno-
menon."
" The igneons rocks, comprising the greater part
of the island, are lavas, sand, and aahes, with
bombs, lapilli, pumice, volcanic scoria and cindera,
tupas and conglomerates: the non-igneous, the
limes tone of Saõ Viçente, the lignite of Saõ Jorge,
and the sands of Caniçal.
1
Proceedinga of the Geological Society, vol. iii. part íi. No, 27.
42 MADEIRA.

" The lavas are wholly basal tie, containing nu-

merous crystals of olivine; and they are compact,
scoriaceous and vesicular. The compact variety
occurs in beds interstratiíied wiíh the other vol-
canie products, and ín dykes which interseet ali
the igneous rocks; it is occasionally amorphous, "but
more often mdely eolumnar, and also, though
rarely, presents regular columns."
" The scoriaceous basalt is rough and porous,
resembling the slag of a foundry, The vesicular
lava, or basalt, presents, through íts whole raass, a
porous texture. The lapilli, sand, ashes, and voí-
canic bombs appear to have been projected simul-
taneously, as the bombs are evidently iialf imbedded
in the iiner materiais.
" Beds of pumice, varying iu tliíckness, occur
either on the surface or interstratiíied with the
basalt and tufa, dispersed without regará to gravi-
tai ion.
" The seoria, or cinders, also forni extensivo beds;
they are generally reddish, and vary in size ac-
cording to the distance from the orifice of eruptioi).
The ashes, botii dark and light coloured, are in-
cohereut, except where they are mixed with earthy
matter, or apparently fell on a heated cone of
eruption, and in these case3 they forni a scoriaceous
mas»,
" Tufas and conglonierates compose a largc por-
tion of the rocks of Madeira, and are considered to
owe tbeir eonsistency to water.
" The most remarkable volcanic series, amount-
 MADEIRA. 43
ing to many hundred beds, is at Cape Giram, the
eliff, 1,000 feet in height, being stratified from thc
base to the summit; it lias been rent in inany
places, and the fissures, which tcrraiiiate opwards
in acute angles, havc been filled up with lava
ejected from below.
" The principal chain of mountains must at one
time have been much higher, because their very
summit3 consist of beds which are met with only
at the base of active volcantc cones.
í;
The limestone of Saõ Viçente belongs to the
tertiary epocb; it erosses a mountain between two
and tbree thousand feet above the levei of the sea,
and abounds in zoophytea and marine testacea. It
is traversed by two dykcs of basalt; and ít lies
immediately under the Paul da Serra, a volcanic
plateau, which rises 2,500 feet above limestone,
1;
Tlie coal, or lignite, occurs on the north side
oí the isl&nd, on the banks of one of the tributaries
ot tlie Saõ Jorge. Professor Johnstone considers
Ít to be the dried relict of an ancient peat bog, and
its lustre, eompactness, and rhomboidal fracture to
be due to the aetion of the basalt which overlies it.
An analysis gave:
Carbon 80.70
Hydrogen 5,82
Oxygen and Mitrogcn . 33.47 = 99.S5»,
And 20.05 per cent. of ash.
Tliis is the organic constitution of truc peat; but
no peat exists at present in Madeira.1
Tbere is, howevcr, thc " Atui ei roa/' a qnaking bog, at Saut*
44 MA DEI KA.
" The sands of Canibal are found near the eastern
extremity of the island; tliey consist of small par-
tícles of basalt*and comminuted testacea, enclosing
vast numbers of land-shells, as well as calcareons
incruatationa of planta. The shells have been care-
fully examined, and one-sixth aacertained to belong
to species not now found livmg in the island. Dr.
Macanlay ia of opinion, from these incruatations
eonsistmg of carbonate and phosphate of lime,
sílica, and animal matter, that they are of animal
orígin, and probably belonging to the family of
Aleyonidte,"1
I» natural liistory tlie ísland of Madeira is par-
ticularly barren; there are no indigenous qnad-
rupeds, or venomous reptiles of any kind. Botli
the brown and black rat are to be found in great
abundance; and the common green Hzard (lacerta
agilis) ia seen, aporting in thousanda, on the walls
and other places expoaed to tlie rays of the sun;
and, together with the rata, cause sad havoc among
the ripe grapes. Frogs have been introduced

Antonio da Serra.; and l)r, Líster snggests that perhaps a simi-

lar morass íjave origin to tho lignite of Safl Jorge.
1
Dr. Sebastian Fischer, medicai attendant to Hia I, H. the
Duke of L-eucktenberg, during hia visit to Madeira in 1849, a
diligent microacopic observer, anti well knoirn to the savana of
St. Petersburgh for hia valuable researehea with that instrument,
haa carefully examined theae aeeming calcareoua incrusta tions
with tho microacope, and gives hie opinion that they are decidedly
coral formatiotia, In form they certainly very mueh resemble
the branchos of coral, frequently fiahed up by the fiahertoen,
along the coaat.
 MADEIRA. 45
within the present century, and swarm along the
margin of the mountain streams, where their inces-
sant eroakíng Ís far from being agreeable. The
mosquito is rather troublesome at times, but it is
not nearly so common as in other warm cl i mates.
And the zebra-spider, a specics of tarantula, is
found among the branches of cacti, or príckly pear;
but íts bite, though slightly venomous, is by no
means severe. The small brown ant is very trou-
blesome in the eupboards of most of the houses;
and the common house-fly is often annoying during
the warmer seasons. The feathered tribe is ex-
ceedingly rare; a few rcd-legged partridges, quai],
and woodcock, are found ou the hills. The roek-
pigeon, columbia livia, is found along the rocky
eoast, but is shy and diflicult of approach. There
ai'e few small bírds to be seen ; the goldfinch,
fringílla carduelis ; the eanary, carduelis cornaria ;
and the blaekbird, redbreast, and sparrow, are the
most abundant. The wagtail is also common, and
the awallow remains during the winter. The tin-
tonegro, a species of blackeap, or nightingale, be-
ionging to the genus " conirostres " of Cuvier, is
peculiar to the island, and is much prized for the
sweetness of Íts note. A beautiful specic3 of owl,
strix flammta, is found among the rocks on the
mountains. The small sparrow-hawk abounds;
and the manta, falco cesalon, ís common in the
neighbourhood of the loftier peaks. Of the gull
tribe there ís a considerable variety to be found
along the eoast, but more particularly about tíic
46 MADEIRA.

Desertas, where a peculiar species of night petrel,

of a brownish blaek colour, is to be found in great
abundance, and cau be easily caiight while asleep,
during tlie day, under tlie rocks and stones left by
the torrents in their almost precipitous course to-
wards the sea. Rabbíts are plentiíul in tlie diíFerent
serras, and upper districts of the ia]and, but more
particularly along tlie Paiil da Serra, where they
exist in great abundance. The hare, though at
one time introduced, lias not been found to thrive,
and is no longer to be met with 011 the island.
Of fish there is a great variety existing along
the coast of the island; as many as 170 specíes are
«aid to have been discovered.1 There are scarcely
any sea-shells to be met with; and ali kinds of
shell-fish are rare.
Notwi th stand ing the advantages of clima te the
cultivation of Madeira is far behind most other
civilized nations. Xear the sea, and at the bottom
of the ravines, the soil ia generally of a rich allu-
vial nature, and, when water can be procurcd for
írrigation, is wcll adapted for agricultural purposes.
Ou the higher districts, however, it is usual ly líght,
and without substance. The grounds are irrigated
by means of levadas, or water-courses, brancliing
off from the mountain streams, at a considerable
elevation, along the side of the hills, with subordi-
1
A valuabic work by the Eev. K. T. Lowe, entitled " History
of the Fishes of Madeira," J, Van Voorst, L ondoii, was prepared
for the press some years ago, but only a few mimbers have been
publiubed.
 MADEIRA. 47
nate channels to convey the water to the different
"fazendas," or propertiea lying below, eacli of
which is entitled to so many liours' supply during
a given period, according to tlieír respectíve righta,
eatablished by law or purcliase. The water tbus
supplíed forms an article of sale and purchase
ainong tlie peasantry, according to theii require-
nients, and is often the cause of great conte 11 tion
and protracted litigation. These levadas are scat-
tered over the island in almost every dírection, and
con3titute the principal public works of Madeira.
The inost important are those of Rabaçal and the
Furado; the former intended to convey the water
froni the sourcc of the Ribeira da Jane 11a, 011 the
north side of the island, through an extensive
tunnel, to irriga te the conaíderable traets of hitlierto
neglected land lying above Calheta, and the Paul
do Alar, 011 the south coast. This undertaking
was begun in 1836. At the head of a deep and
narrow ravine, wliere the Ribeira da Janella com-
mences, a water-conrse has been cut about (500
feet along the face of a perpendicular rock, at an
elevation of about 300 feet iro 111 its base, which
reccives a cryatal stream, as it trickles down the
side of the precipice, extending upwards of 600
feet above; and obtaina additional supplies from
every available souree, as it ívinds along the
northern side of the mountains, till, passing through
a tunnel of 1,400 feet in length, and in width and
depth about 40 feet, the levada emerges on the
south, and continues along the hills for a distancc
48 MADEIRA.

of eix miles from its source. Such are the en-

gineering qualifications, however, of those inter-
e3ted in the management of this meritorious work,
that, after an outlay of upwards of 8,000£ sterling,
the inclinaiion is fcimd to be the wrong way! So
erroneoua have been their calculations, that tht
tunnel, of which such boasts liave becn made, lias
yet to be loweied upwards of 15 fcet, and the rest
of the water-cour se in proportion, hefore the final
objeet can be realized; and it appears doubtful,
aecording to the opinion of one oí the best en-
ginecra of the island, whetlier it would not yet lie
advisable to alter the whole plan ot the work, and
carry the water througli one of the mountains
nearer its sonree. The Levada do í urado was
commenced in 1840, by a joint-stock asaoeiation,
to bring an extensive supply of water from the
Ribeiro do BalcaÕ, one of the tributaries of the
Ribeira do Fayal, along the northem side of the
mountains, to the Lamaceiros, and from thence
along the south, behind Sant' Antonio da Serra
and Camacha, to tiie heights above the eastern part
of Funchal, a distanee, including the windings
along its coursc, of nearly forty-five miles. The
wh ares were issued at 25 dollars, and the estimated
eost amounted to 9,000 dollars, Upwards ot
41,000 dollars, however, liave already been ex-
pended, and, although the levada is completed
throughout, the water only flows as far as
íSant' Antonio da Serra, and tlie districts below,
where it was comparatively littlc required. From
 MA DEI 1U. 49

this point it Í9 either perfectly levei, or inclining

upwards, and remai ns as a monument of the ill-
regulated surveys, and mismanagement of the
parties entrusted with the superintendenee of th is
laudable undertaking.
A large portion of the surface of Madeira is
uníit for cultivation. The upper districts, the
regi ou of the heath and bilberry, which constitute
fullj one-half, are too elevated and barrcn for the
produetion of grain^ and a large portion of the
remainder is either bare Tock, or too precipitous for
cultivation; so tliat piobably not more tlian one-
fourth of the island is actually cultivated. The
agricultura! implementa in use are of the rudest
description, and consist of the enchada, a
slightly curvcd and short pick-axe, which only
partially tnrns up the soil; the arado, or plough, a
most primitive instmment, almost entireiy of wood,
and somewhat resemhling the aratnim of the
ancient Romans ; the_/òiíw, orfoucinho, a jagged-
edged síckle, used in cutting grass, &c. for tbeir
cattle ; and the podão, an augular-sliapcd pruning-
knife.
Tliere is aeldom any rotation of crops, or cliange
of cultivation. Bearded wheat and barley are
grown on the same lands froni generation to gene-
ration, so that it is not to be wondered at that
their average produce should be so limited as
rarely to exceed ten bushels per acre; and the
produce of lye grovni in the upper districts is even
less. The bearded wheat is more extensively cul-
D
50 MADEIRA.

tivated tlian any other cereal, auri occupiee fully

one-half of the arable Ian d; but the produce of
grain over tlie whole island does not cxceed three
montha' consumption. Wheat is somi from Octo-
ber to January, and the harvest takes place, ac-
cording to tlie locality, in May or June. The
graín is usually pulled up by the roots, and the
ground afterwards prepared for sweet potatoes or
beans. It is trodden out by oxen, in Hat circular
enclosures,1 surrounded by a lmv parapct of loose
s tones, and general ly formed on some exposed
point of land, where the process of Tvinnowing is
also carried on, by throwing the grain in the air,
and allowing the breeze to carry the eliaíf aside.
Tlie Old Testa ment injunetion, " Th ou shalt not
muzzle the ox that treadeth out the com," is still
rigorously observed.
Maize, or Indian corn, which constitutes ouc of
the principal articles of food among the poorer
class, lias of late years been cultivated with con-
siderable success in the northem parts of the
island, and its cultivation might, with almost in-
calculable advantage to the peasantTy, bc grcatly
extended. At present it is largely imported from
Portugal, the Azorcs, and America.
An improvement, however, on the rude system
of agriculture hitherto prevailing in Madeira, is
gradually becoming apparent. A society lias lately
(1850) been formed at Funchal, under the auspices
of II. I. II, the Duke of Leuchtenberg, and pre-
1
Theae threaliing-floors are called *' Eiras" liy the nativas.
 MADEIRA. 51

sided over by his Excellency the Civil Governor,

for the purpose of introducing seeds, plants, and
implementa, and improving tlie agricuiture of tlie
island. and ali tlie arts relating thereto. The
ÍSociety already numbers abotit 150 influential
members, iliirty of whom are annually appointed
Directora; and ít is to lie hoped the Agricultural
Society of Madeira may ere long be prodttctive of
immense advantage to the island generally.

D2
 CHAPTER VI.

TESUHE 07 J.AND—OCLTIVATIOW OF THK SDGAB-CÀKE—YINE—

VIKTAQB—W1SES—EXPOHTS.

The vineyards, an<l different allotments of laiid

in Madeira, are generally of small extenfc. Thougli
appearing large in many parts, they are so divided
among the different " caseiros," or tenants, tliat the
produce of each is usually limited to a few barreis
of wiue, or a triflíng portion of grain; and this
subdivision is a principal cause of tlie poverty
existing among this class—nearly one-fourth of
the inhabitants. These " caseiros," similar to the
Roman coloni, hold their lands on the metayer
system, divide the multifarious produce of their
grounds with the landlord,. or morgado, and pay
the State one-half of the ti the in wine and grain.
The propcrty of the morgados is entailcd, merely
forming a possession for life; but they are com-
pelled to provide a "mczada," or monthly allow-
ance, to bmthers and sisters, according to the
income derived from their entail.
Previous to the revolution of 1821, theoceupiers
of land looked upon these morgados as thcÍT feudal
lords, and extended to them ali the homage wliich
usually accompanies such a system. Undcr these
 MADEIRA. 53

circumstances it is not surprising tliat the estafes

are rarely improved. The caseiro acts quite inde-
pendeu tly of the lord of the soil, and is absoltite
owner of ali tlie bemfeitorias, or improvements iii
buildíngs, plants, &c., which lie must be paid for,
accordíng to valuation, before liis removal can "be
cffected; and on liis deatli tlie riglit of cultivation,
along with tlie benfeitorias, &c., are usually parted
among liis children, increasing the subdivísion oi
land from year to year.1
The sugar-cane, formerly the ehief produce ot
Madeira, was first introdueed by Dom Ilenry,
Prinee of Portugal, in 1425, and planted at Ma-
chico. It rapidly progressed in importance, and at
the end of the same oentuiy the iiumber of sugar
mills along the soutliern coast exceeded one liun-
dred and twenty; the first heing crccted by Diogo
Vaz dcTeíve, near the village of Machico, in 1452.
The half of the titlie, which went to the govern-
ment ín 1500, exceeded a million of "arraieis," or
pounds. This contínued to form the chief, or only
commercial produce of the island, till the end oi'
the sixtecrith century, when, during the usurpation
of Philip II. of Spain, the abundance of sugar
furnished by the different parts of America, ac-
cordíng to De Freitas' MS., caused its rapid de-
cline in Madeira. The cultivation was ehiefly
1
3ee an exceUent memoir " On the Tc mire of Land in the
laland of Madeira," by Dr. Peacock, Dean of Ely, rerul before lhe
meeting of the BritiEh Asiociation, Septembcr, 1849 ; reported
in the Athemeum, Ko. 1144, pago 995.
54 MADEIRA.

canried on by slaves, composed of the descendants

of the conquercd Moora of Portugal, Moorish cap-
tives taken during the wars, aiid a few Negrões
from the coast of Africa. In 1552, according to
Gasper Fructuoso, the island of Madeira contained
upwards of 2,700 slaves. From Madeira the
sugar-cane was introduced into the BraziIs, iu
1510, teu years after the díscoveiy of that country
by tlie celebrated Pedro Alvarez Cabral, and, in
1513, to the islaud of St- Vincent, in the West
Indies. At present the sugar-cane is little culti-
vated in Madeira, and is only used in the manu-
facture of "mél," or syrup, for preserves, &c.
Therc are still three mills existing for pressing the
canes for tliis purpose; one at Praya Formosa, onc
at Sao Martinho, and the other at Rua do Chapeo,
in Funchal.
On the decline of the tradc in sugar, the vine
beoame the great staple of Madeira. Some writers
state that thie plant was introduced by Prince
Henry, during the year folio wing the díscovery of
the island; but this is highly improbablc, for ali
the early authorities assert, that, to clear the
grounds for agricultural pnrposes, Zargo set fire to
the woods, which continued bimiing for several
years.1 At ali evente, it appears evident that the
1
Manoel Thomas, in bis " Insulana," ivritWn within two
centúrios of tlie d iscovery of tlie island, slates that tlie Êre con-
tinued turning foT eighty-fonr months; and adds, that tlie
settleru liad to seek rofnge in their eliipa, from the raging of
lhe íire.
 MADEIRA. 55

island was not cleared for cultivation till some

years subsequent to tliat period.
The viiie was probably introduced in 1425, from
Cyprus, buí it was not actively cultivated till tlie
early part of the sixteenth century; and it is more
tlian probable tliat tlie fincst descriptions were in-
troduced by the Jesuíta at a much later period.
The wines from their estafes excelled ali others,
and, althongh these esta te 3 have now passed into
otlier li anda, their produce still bears a preference.
The vine is propagated from cuttings, plantcd at
a depth of from tliree to six feet; and tliere ií
geuerally no produce for thc first tliree years.
During the seeond or third spring tliey are trained
alonganet-work of canes, Atundo sugittata, (wlneli
is extensively grown, in low or moist sítuations,
for tliat purpose,) and supported by stakes about
three or four feet from the ground. In tlie north,
however, and other inferior positiona, they are
geuerally trained on cliestnut-trees, as a less ex~
pensive mode of cultivatíon; and tliis is certainly
more picturesque and pleasing to the eye tlian the
stiff and formal trellis-work, under wliich ali sorts
of vegetables are eultivated, and weeds allowed to
grow in abundance; the grape however ia saíd to
be richer when grown near the ground.
The vintage uíually takes place, in thc south,
in thc early part of September; and, according to
the exposure or elevation, from a fortnight to three
weeks later in tlie north. The rats and lizards nre
said to destroy nearly one-fiftli of the produce, and
 56 MADEIRA.
leavíng tbe lower vineyards as the vintage pro-
gresses upwards, make sad havoc among the later
produce. The grapes, when gathered, are " escol-
hido," or pieked; those of an inferior quality
being general ly reserved by themselves. They are
then thrown into the " lagar," or wine-press, a
large and clumsy wooden trough, where they are
trodden by the feet; and after the first juice lias
been drawn off, the remaining mass is collected
together, and, a rope being coiled round it, a lever
pressure is applied. The juice is received in a
tub, and conveyed to the stores in goat-skins,
where it is emptied into casks for the purposc of
fermentation, which usually lasts, in an active
state, for fonr or five weeks. After the juice bas
been extracted, a quantity of water is thrown into
the press, and the refuse undcrgoíng a repeti ti on of
the same proceas, produces the " agoa pé," foot-
water, or dregs, a drink lield in grcat estimation
by the lower classes, but frequently producing
violent diarrhcea, cspecíally if used after the fer-
mentation lias eommcnced.
When the wine has ceased fermenting, it is
drawn off the lees, and transferrcd to other casks,
when it is clarified witb eggs, ox-blood, or more
trequently 'gypsum, a gallon or two of brandy
liaving been prevíously added to each pipe to pre-
veni the acetous fermentation taking place. The
brandy used for tliis purposc ia made on the island,
from the most inferior wines, such as those of Porto
Santo, Saõ \ isente and other parts of the north.
 MADEIRA. 57

The average produce of the vine throughout the

is]and is estimated at a little over a pipe per acre,
The inferior descriptions of wine, after being cl a ri -
íied, are subjected, in stoves, to a temperaturc of
140° to 160° Falir, for six months, hy which pro-
eess of forem g they assume an apparent age; butT
at the same time, a dry and smoky flavour, which
can never be entirely cradicated, Thís cias a of
wines is shipped annually, in large quantities, to
Hamburgh, where it undergoes a procesa which
changes its character to that of Ilock, nnder wliict
liame a large portion of it finds its way into the
Englisb niarket.
The wines produced along the southern eoast of
the island of Madeira are probably unequalled by
any otlier country, eitlier in body, aroma, softness,
or delieaey of flavour. The folio w mg constitute
the principal wines and grapes of the island ; the
grapes are never exported, and many of the wines
are rarely to be met with out of the island.
Malmsey.—A light-ooloured wine, made from the
" Malvasia Candida," 1 a large oval grape, of a ricli
gold-colour when ripe, hanging in long and rather
thin pendulous tranches. The íinest wines of th ia
class are produced at the " Fazenda dos Padres,"
formerly belonging to the Jcsuits, and the " Faiil
do Mar,'' botli to the west of Funchal. To the
growers it is considered a most unprofitable vine,
only producing close to the sea, and the flower
1
*
Corrupted from Candia, from which island it was first intro-
dneed, in 1445.
D3
58 MADEIRA.

being so delicate that the slightest fog or moíaturo,

during the spring, is sure to destroy it; tlie pro-
duce for years together is frcquently líttle or
nothing. Tlie Malmsey on th is account, as well
as on account of its very superior and rich charac-
ter, is consídered the most valuable of ali the
Madeira vrines, and is usually eharged from 161. to
85?. per pipe on board. The other grapes of tlie
sarae class are the Malvazw.õ, wliich is onlv fit for
making vinegar, and the Malvasia Boxa, a reddisli-
eoloured and inferior grape, used only for interior
wines.
Bâal,—A soft and dclicate wine, made from a
beautiful round straw-coloured grape, ahout the
size of a small marble, and when ripe must be
immediately eut, otherwise it ehrinks and yields
little juice. Campanaiio was formerly the most
farned sítuation for the líôal grape, but of late
yeaís it bas become scarce, probably in conse-
quenee of its precarious produce. Tlie wine is of
a peculiarly delieate and rich mellow character,
and. a splendid wine cither when new or old.
The usual sliipping priee of Bílal is from 70?. to
80 giiineas per pipe.
Sercial.—A dry liglit-coloured wine, of Strong
aroma and high flavour, produeed from the round
Iloch grape, hanging in thickly-clustered bunches.
Tlie fine?t quality of Sercial is produced at the
Paul do Mar, and is so unpleasant to the pai ate
when new, that it can only be used after it has
attained an age of eight years; it is then consi-
 MADEIRA. 59

dered, by connoisseurs, tlie finest and most whole-

some of ali the wines of Madeira, as well as an
excellent etoinaehic. The grape itself is quite
uneatable, even the lizards will not toueli it. It is
usual ly exported at from 101 to 80/. per pipe.
The Ser ilha, a grape of the game class, produces a
weak and inferior wine, but is seldom grown; and
the Esganacaõ, grown in the upper distriets of
Ponto do Sol and Seiçal, is general ly pressed
along with other inferior grapes, for coininon use
on the island.
Tinta, or Madeira Burgundy.—A dark and peeu-
liarly fine-ílavoured wine, made from the small
black Burgundy grape. The best wines oí tliis
deseription are grown in the distriets of Cama dos
Lobos and the Estreito; it receives its high claret
colour from the husks of the grape, which are
allowed to remain hi the wine during the process
of fcrinentation, and which also írnpart to it the
astringent property of Port. Tinta should be used
duriug the first or second year; after tliat period it
gradually loses its fine aroma and delícate flavour.
Tlie usual priee of thiâ wine is from 60/. to 70?.
per pipe.
Tinto.—A dark wine, made from the Negra Molle
grape, considerably larger, softer, and more juicy
tlian the Tinta, or Burgundy grape; it produces
abundantly, and is generally used with the other
varieties of grape in making Madeira,
Madeira,—so ealled from its being the principal
wine of the island,—is made from a variety of grapes
 CO 11ADEIBA,
mixed together in the wine-press, tlie Verdelho,
Tinto, Terrmtrez, and Búal predominating. When
new it is gene rally of a light-claiet colour, but
which is gr:idually deposited as the wine advanees
towards maturity, when it assumes a bright amber
appearance. Tlie most esteemed Madeira is pro-
duced on that part of tlie island lyirig between
1' unebal and Catnpanario, but more parti cu larly in
the distríets of Cama dos Lobos and the Estreito.
I his wine is supposed to bc much improved by a
voyage to tlie Last or West Judies, and is classe d
accordingly in the London market, as " Lr»idem
Particular," and " East or West índia Madeira;"
the usual shipping price being from 25/. to 50/.
and upwards per pipe.
Verdelho.—A pale, strong-bodied, and peculiarlv
fine-flavou red wine, rnade from a small light-
coloured grape of the same liame, grown over the
whole island, from the coast to an elevation of
2,700 feet above the sea. The finest Verdêlho is
produced on tlie south coast, and the valley of
Porto Cruz on the north, and, when pure, arrives
sooner at maturity than any otlier wine of Ma-
deira.
Palhete, or Vinho pallido.—A very pale straw-
coloured wine, usually made from the Verdêlho
?raIRi' a
process of clarifica ti on with charcoal,
which destroys the rich colour, and in a great
measure the body and fine fiavour of the wine.
Surdo. — A sort oí liqueur, made from the
strongest bodied and thoroughly ripe grapes, both
 IIA DEI RA. 61
ligbt and dark coloured, by preventing the fer-
rnentatíon taking plaee, and tiiua retaining ali the
sweetness of the must. Ií ia chiefly used for
giving body and softness to wines of an inferior
deseription. Surdo lias been exporte d in small
quantities, under the name of Nuns1 wine; it ha»
íiow, however, ceased to be shipped.
Negrinho.—A rich dark-coloured ívine, or cor-
dial, made from a dark, round, pulpy grapc, called
by the natives Maroto, and considered the most
inferior of ali the grapes used in makhig wine; it
is, however, very hardy and prolifie, but never
thoroughly ripens: when cut, it is partially dried
in the siui before being pressed. Negrinho is only
made in small quantities, and is rarely met with.
There are many other kinds of grape grown 011
the island. The large and formidable Alicant and
Muscatel are cultivated in private gardens, for tlie
table, and, it is said, ncarly forty different kinds
for making wine.
The wines of Madeira, with the exception of
linta, should be kept in cellars of a modera te and
equable temperature, and should be placed, for a
short period, at a moderate distanee from the tire
before being deeanted; and the deeanter heated
in Iike manncr.

The exact quantity of wine prodtteed on the

island of Madeira Í3 totally unknown; it is sup-,
posed, however, to aniount, at the lowest calcula-
tion, to írom eigliteen to twenty thousand pipes
62 MADEIRA.

annuallv, of which about one-third only is ex-

ported; the remaining portion is either converted
into brandy, or consume d on the island.1
The total quantity exported during the year
1850, amounted to 7,125 pipes ;s showing a decrease
of 254 pipes from tlie vcturns of the prévioua
year, and 850 pipes less than the total exporta of
1840. In 1809, there were 15,363 pipes shipped
from Madeira, in 13 ri ti ah vessels alone, and the
quantity imported into England, during the same
year, exceeded 639,000 gallons. The dematid for
these wines in Great Brítain lias been rapidly
deereasing for some years past. The total deli-
veries for home consumption, in 1849, amounted
to 71,097 gallons, against 112,555 gallons in 1840;
showing a decrease of 41,458 gallons, or nearly
one-third, in ten years.' In 1821, upwards of
400,000 gallons were retained for home consump-
tiôn in tlie United Kingdom.
1
The returna made to goveniment of the entire produce of
the viatage of 1850, calculatcd from the tithe, amounted only to
12,6641 pipca. It ia presuined, hoirever, by competent pernos,
lhat nearly douldc that quantity was produeed. Tlie tithes of
the different parisliea being geuerally diaposed of in grosa, by
auction, it "becomea an ohjeet to the purcbaser to ruako the
relurns as low ae posaible, that he may obtain the future tithes
at a low rate. And, when these aaloa are effeetcd at a fixeil price
per barrei, the Teturna made by the collectors appei»Led by
government are equally unsatisfactory, from circumstaucea eaaily
aceounted for. Tbese retorna, aome firteen or twenty yeara ago,
whou more correetly made, gave upwarda ef 30,000 pipes as the
annual produce of the island.
: 1
See Tablc of ExporU, Appendis H. llíid.
 MADEIRA. m

This fhlling oíf in the eonsumption of Madeira

wincs in England lias, however, opened other
markets; and we íind by returns from the United
States of America, tliat the quantity imported into
that country from England, and direct from
Madeira, increased from 101,176 gallons in 1845,
to 303,125 gallons in 1850; being 201,945 gallons,
or nearly 200 per cent., in 5 years!
 CHAPTER VII.

TRUITS—VEQETABLES—TREES—FIOWERS, ETC,

Few eountries surpass Madeira ín the variety and

abundanee of its fruits. The ir cultivation, liow-
ever, is very mxicli neglected; the plants are
allowed to grow almost wild, and are seldom cn-
grafted, or even pruned; the qnality is therefore
miserably inferior to that of other localities. Tiie
objeet of the cultivators In Madeira appears to be
quantity, vithout the slightest regard to quality.
Citron, which grows extensively in the north,
and formed at one time a eonsiderable article of
export, is still prepared and candied in small
quantities by the nuns of Santa Clara, and a few
other parties, but only for consumption on tlie
ialand. At times it is shipped to tbe London
market, preserved in a strong salt brine, and is
therc prepared for use.
The orange grows ívell, and Í3 abundant over
tlie wliole island, under an elevation of 2,000 feet.
The cultivation, liowever, as with ali tlieir fruit-
trees, is quite neglected, and the fruit in conse-
quence is very inferior to that of the Azor es and
 MADEIRA. 65

other parts: the finest are prodnced along the

north coast. If properly attended to, the orange
might be made a vcry valuable and profitable
article of expovt; at present only a few boxe a
are shippcd annually, to arrive in England bcfore
the produ.ee of the other orange-growing countries
can he obtained.
The giiaya, Paidium pomiferum, and banana,
Musa paradisaica, are extensively grown and ex-
ceedingly cheap; the latter is sometimes exported,
in limited quantities however, to the London
market, where tlie fruit is considere d a rarity.
The custar d apple, Annona squamosa, is also grown,
hut ehiefly in priva te gardens, and is sei dom to
he met with in the markets. The West Indian
mango has been lately introdnced, and thrives
admirably. Lemons, peachcs, apricots, pomegra-
nates, "janibro" or rose-apples, Eugenia jambos,fafjjp,
and ali the fruits belonging to temperate cl ím ates,
are produced in great abundance, but generally of
inferior quality, The Cape gooseberry, Physalic
edulis, and the srnall Àlpine strawberry, grow wild
about the monntains; where the bilberry, Vac-
cinium madeirense, is also met with in great
abundance.
Coffee and arrowroot are cultivated to some
extent, and are of superior quality. The latter can
be purchased from the eountry people, who bring
it to town for sale, at from 3d. to 4d. per pound.
The supply of vcgctables is most abundant, but
they are generally eoarse, and greatly inferior ir»
66 MADEIRA,

quality to those raised in England. The inhame,

the Arum peregrinam of Persoon, is extenaively
culíivated near the rivers and water-courses, to an
elevation of 2,600 feet above the sea. The roots
are large and productive, frequently weighing trona
tliree to four pounds, and, from its eheapness,
forma when hoiled one of the chief articlea of food
among the peasantry. It is coarse and harsh to
the taste, and requires eonsíderable earc in cook-
ing. The leaves are exeeeding acrid and only
uaed in feeding piga.
The sweet potato, Convolvulus edulis, is also
extensively grown, on dryer situations; it ia one
of the commoneat vegeta bica produeed on the
island, and most valuable to the peasàntry. It
yieída moat abundantly, and the long tendrils and
leaves forni an exeellent food for their cattle. No
outlay is required for its cultivation, exeept in
mannre, as it produces from the tendrils, which are
again laid in the gronnd as the roots are dng
up. The common potato is also extensívely eulti-
vated, and is well adapted to the soíl of the upper
distriets of the island, wliere as many as three
crops ean be obtained from the same ground in
one year. Of late, however, the produce of th is
vegetable lias been rather preearions; the aame
dísease whieh has so materially injured the plant
in England having extended its ravages even to
the soil of Madeira. Cabbages and pumpkins are
grown rouiid almoat every hut.
Melon s, cueumbers, chou-chou, Sechium edule,
 MADEIRA. 67

and otliers of the same speciea, are easily obtained,

and thc other vegetables of Jiurope are to be had
in great abundance during the greater pari of
tlie year. Artiehokes, asparagus, celery, and the
more expensive gardcn produce, are grown in the
" quintas " of the British residents in great perfee-
tion. In faet, nearly ali the frnits and vegetables,
whether of teniperate or tropical clmiates, niay be
produced in Madeira in great abundance, and of
superior quality, if their cnltívation were properly
attended to.
The tea-plant is grown by Mr. Veiteh, at his
vil la near the Curral, about 2,700 feet above the
sea. And tobacco might be extensively cultivated
were the restrietions imposed by Government, to
favour the monopoly of the eontraetors for the
supply of this article, removed; even on the now
barren Desertas it might be advantageously grown.
The diffeTent kinds of cacti are found in great
luxuriance.
The Opuntia decumana flourishes on the most
arid and roeky soils, and would afford an excellent
opening for the cultivation of the cocliineal insect,
wliich appears to thrive well on this plant, The
exjíeriment lias already been tried, with most satis-
factory residis; but the people are generally so
devoid of energy in tliese matters, that, notwith-
standiug the decline of their wine trade, and con-
sequent poverty, no substitnte lias yet been adopted
with sufficient perseverance to obtain a favourable
result.
GS MADEIRA.

The Morwt muUicaulus lias "been introduced, and

thrives most luxuriantly; and an experhnent ís
now being made to rear the silkworm.
The Ruivinha, or madder,—the woad, Tsntis
tínctoria,—and the turmerie, Ourcuma longa, grow
wild on the mountains; and, with the bríght scarlet
ílower of the Salvia splendens, are used by the nuns
in dyeing. The eotton-plant lias been tried, and
growa well; and the castor-oil plant, Ridnus com-
munis, produces most abundantly, and grows wild
o ver the eountry.
The indigenous forest trees of Madeira, formerly
existing in great abundance, have become exceed-
ingly scarce, except in those abrnpt and precipitous
ravines in the north of tiie island, where the wood-
cutter and chareoal-burner have been nnable to
ply their axe. The native cedar, of whieh the
roof of tlie cathedral Ís íbrmed, has almost entirely
disappeared; and the dragon-tree, whieh formerly
attained such an enormous size, and grew in snch
abundanee, is now only to be met with in a few
private " quintas."
The til, Laurus fwtens,—and vinhatieo, Laurus
indica, or island mahogany, are still met with on
the mountains in the north, and their wood is
nmch prized for cabinet work. The til, when
newlv cut, possesses a most disagreeable odour of
sulphuietted hydrogen; when old, the wood is of
a fine blaek colour, and is now chiefly obtained
from the beams and joists of the eavly buildings.
The beautiful flowering Folhado, Clethra arioria,
 MADEIRA. 69
mdigenous to tlie island, fornis almost a forest at
ítibeiro Frio, and other parts of tlie north. The
wood is white, cioso graíned, and exeeedingly
tougli; and is eliiefly used for tlie polés of palan-
quins and hammocks.
The heath-tree, Érica arboria, and teixo or yew.
Taxas baccata, grow luxuriantly on tlie liigh
lands, and attain, espeeially tlie former, an asto-
nishing size. Walnnt and chestnut1 trees cover
the liills; and tlie fruit of tlie !atter forms a eonsi-
ilerable article of food among the peasantry,
The pine and oriental plane liave been exten-
sively introduced, the former now covering the
mountains with verdure along the wliole southern
range.
The oak retains its leaves till the new shoots
appear, in Febrnary, and, with tlie eork-tree,
Quercus suber, growa most luxnriantly. Tlie lioney-
locust aeaeia, Gledit.schia triacanthos, is niet with
m the lowcr regions ; and tlie Magnolia gr and (flora,
and otlier planta of the same species, tlirive well
and attain a great size.
In the beautiful gronnds in the vieinity of the
Mount Chureh, about 2,000 feet above the sea,
many fine spechnens of tlie indigenous trees and
planta of China, Australia, and Japan, are to he
found. These and others from the southern liemi-
spliere, in ali their changes, stiíl retain their native
seasons, our w inter eonstituting their snmmer.
The Spanish chestnut is otie of the laleet trees of Madeira,
the Içavas soldam appeariug till Mli y.
70 MADEIRA.

The pdu-branco, mui bem-, plum, orange, plane,

and nearly thirty otlier kinda of wood, are used by
the cabine t-makers, in making furniture, or in
ornamental and inlaid work, in whicli íliey excel.
Tlie iiidigenous tiowera of Madeira are probably
íew in number, but many that liave been intro-
duced flonrísh in great perfection. The mutable
rose, Mosa mutabtlts, coral-trcea, Erythrirm crista-
galU and E. laurifolía, oleander, camellia japo-
nica, and ali the laurel tribe, flonrísh in great
luxuriance, and attain an enormoua size. The
myrtle, jasmine, fuchaia, honeysuckle, wild-rose,
and geranium, cover the walls and fencea; and the
beautiful belladonna lily, Amaryllia belladonna,
growa wild and profusely among the Jiills. The
arum lily, Jtichardia cethiopica, — StreUtzía re-
gina,—Lilium candidum, or white lily, Amaryllw
formosissime, or Jacobin lily, datnra, heliotrope,
hibiscus, verbena, and pa.ssion-flowcr, abonnd in
every quinta. And nearly fifty difíerent apecies of
ferns atford ample scope for the induatry of the
botaníeal eollector.
 CHAPTEE ML

CUJfATE t>? MADEIRA—METEOBIUOalCAL OBSERVATIONS AND TABLE3.

The most remarkable feature of the is 1 and of

Madeira is probably the mildness and equabílity
of its clima te, and its consequent beneficiai effects
on pulmonary and other complaints. These have
been so fully treated of by tlie late Drs. G-ourlay,
Ileineken, líenton, and othcr writers,1 tliat fiirther
reraarka wonld seem almost superfluous; still, any
work on Madeira would be incomplete ivithoi.it a
few observationa on matters of sucli importance.
The editor of a late publícation on the clímate of
Madeira,® haa suggested that it is the province of
tlie medicai practítioners of the Í3land to attend to
meteorologieal observations, and tbua prevent " the
reproaeh of indifference, relativo to the charge,
sometiraea urgcd against tliem, of withholding the
truth, mi der a dread that the far-famed climate of
the island will not bcar the test of close and accn-
rate examination." Notwithstanding the ardnous
nature of their professional dutie9, medicai men
1
See Appcndix I,
3
A Treatise on the Climate and Mcteorology of Madeira, by
the late J, A. Mason, M.D., edítcd bj J. Sberidan Enowles.
J. Churchil), London, 1350.
72 MADEIBÀ.

have ever been found the foTemoat in these in-

vestiga tions, and sucli a reproach in the present
instanee seems peculiarly unmeritcd.
Witliout advancing any pretensions to medicai
knowledge, or the physiological effects of climate,
a reaidence of many years in Madeira, and a
lengthened aojoum, in purauit of health, among the
most favoured localities of the South of Europe,
enablea the tvriter to add hia testimony to tlie
decided superiority of the climate of Madeira o ver
ali thoae he has viaited. The pnrity of tlie atmo-
sphere is neither impaired hy smoke nor dnat; cold
winda or elose sultry weather are little known, and
a continuoua suramer may be enjoyed without suf-
fering from extremes of heat or cold, or a continu-
ance of damp or wet weather. Moísture never
appears in mists or fogs, except on the monntains;
and dewa, though profuse at certain seasons on the
liigher grounds, seldom fali in Funchal. The
hcavy rains usually occur during the early spring
and autunin, leaving the air clear and cxhilarating.
During the latter part of September, or early in
October, the winda prevail from the west or south-
west, aecompanied by frequent and heavy showers.
January, Februaryf and March are the eoldest
inonths; during the two latter there is frequently
finow on the hills for a few days togetlier, but
liever descending below the levei of 2,500 feet
íibove the sea. The air in Funchal, liowever,
(dthough the thermometer may not denote a greater
cold than60°of Fahr.,frequentlyfeela ehilly during
 MADEIRA. 73
the time the snow remains on the mountains, and
precautioiís are then necessary, though tlie cold is
never so severe a3 to confine tlie invalid to the
honse. In Madeira tliere is little twilight; so soon
as the sim sinks bencath the horizon, night closes
in. The length of day is nearly the same tlirough-
ont the year. During the aummer the sun sets, at
the latest period, about seven o'clock, and ín \vin-
ter, about an liour and a half earlier; with the same
difference in his appearance abovc the horizon.
The late Dr. Mason, in his Treatise on the
Climatc and Meteorology of Madeira,1 appears to
have detectcd a greater degree of moistuie in tlie
atmosphere around Funchal, than is shown by the
tables of Other observers ; and, wliilc writmg under
the morbid inflnence of active disease, eomplained
bitterly of tlie cloudy sky, the high winds, and the
variabibty of temperatura enconntcred in Madeira.
The situation where his observations were made is
notoriously one of the least favourable for tliat
purpose in the outskirts of Funchal; and th ia cir-
curustance, togetlier with the fact of his hygro-
meter being placed in a elose room, between two
windows, near an open tank, and surrounded with
trellised vines and vegetation, independent of the
aeknowledged severity of the season during which
they were made, will sufficiently account for the
difference existing between his observaiions and
those of other parties. As regards the cloudy sky
!
See a Trealiae on the Climato and Mtíteorology of Mtule:raf
b)' the late J. A. Mason, M.D. J. Cburchill, London, 1850,
E
74 MADEIRA.
and liigh winds, thc tables of Chás. M'Euen, Esq.,
published íii tlie same volume, offer a sufficient
refutaiion, as will be seen from tlie following
summaiy;—
Comparative Force of Wind at Funchal, 1348-9, deductd from.
Tables by C. ÍVEueii, Esq.
IS18 9, Frtraa Ol>sen»tieoíit9â,ii. From Obsrrvtlíui» itlp si. 0 * o|
o*
Months. 0. 1. t. 3 4. 0. 1. 2. 3. 4. is H® ?3
December 14 3 3 4 E> 6 2
1 21 42
January ,, s S 14 2 14 13
1 1 31 62
February 1? 3 7 1 14 12 28 56
13 5 5 1 3 8 12 1 24 4i
20 7 5 20 3 28 56
May 11 18 1 4 21 5 30 60
83 44 | 31 4 1 19 > 86 51 5 0 162 324
0. Calma . , . ín 324 obaorvations oecurs 102 time?.
1. l.ight winds 130 „
2. Fresh 82 „
3. Stronjj 9 ,,
*i. Presti med gale 1 „
324
Comparative Appearance of tlie Shj at Funchal, deduced from
Obtervations by C. M'E»en, Esq.
IS 18-9. Obwrv»tion> takrn «t9 *.M. otaervitiuai t»kt*n «t 2f.« c ■/ 5Í
Month*. B, C. U s O r y II. B. c. R S. O. T. F. II. sc6 a%
II
Deeember... 10 10 3 í 1 1 11 16 3 2 3 3 21 42
January...».., 29 17 2 2 24 24 1 2 3 1 31 61
Febrtia-y 24 1 1 1 a 2 7 2:! 15 2 4 26 54
March 12 19 t 6 o 5 17 21 1 1 4 24 -18
Aprll 25 26 1 2 11 25 2 3 2 6 28 56
May 29 15 25 24 2 2 30 60
I2í» 88 5 5 18 8 15 Ul 125 8 6 12 11 ...15 160 321
 MADEIRA. 75
In 321 observations tliese letters appear joíntly
anti separately as follows :—
B. Bine, or ciear sky . . . 240 iimea.
C. Cloudy 223 „
It. llain 13 „
S, Showers 11 „
O. O Terças t 30 „
T. Threatenitig 19 „
F. Foggy 0 „
H. Hazy 30 „
566

From the position of thc island of Madeira, and

the lofty and ragged nature of its surface, it will
appear sufficiently obvious to every one couversant
with the causes of thc formatioii of cloudfl, and tlie
tradc winda, that iJie aky cannot te generally so
clear, nor tlie atmosphere so calm as that of Italy.
The precedi ng taliles, however, íhough eompiled
during a season of unusual severity, " certa inly one
of the coldest for a great number of ycars," 1 still
afford a favourable resulf.
The trade-winds usually commencc a few degrees
sonth of fiadeira; from th is latitude their tendency
towards the equator is so marked that they may
almost l)e said to begin at this point. The nortli-
erly winds prevail at Madeira, on an average from
eight to nine montha in the year; but from their
direct influence, the lofty cliain of mountains, which
traverae the island from cast to west, aíford a suffi-
cient protection.
1
Sce Masons irork on the Cliniatc, &c. of Madeira, p. 223,
E 2
76 MADEIRA.

The warra and dry Leste, or east wind, analogous

to the Sirroeo, which blows from the coast of
Africa, seldom occurs during the winter months
at Madeira, and rarely lasts more than two or
three days. During its continuanee the heat is
more oppressíve in the upper distriets than ín
Funchal, and in the summer frequently occaaiona
langour and headaches, partieularly with the more
robust, or per sons of a plethoric liahít. From the
effeets of tliia wind, Dr. Mason appears to ltave
drawn his cliief or only deductions with regard to
the effeets of the climate of Madeira on invalida,
and recommenda " those who, on their arrival, find
that the Leste agrees with them, to remove to a
drier climatebut without pointing out any
more suitahle spot; " while those with whom it
materially disagrees may rest assured that they
will derive pennanent benefit from remai 11 mg."
These observations mu3t earry little weight with
them, for in onc case he liimself appears to have
" suffered very severely from the Leste, after being
inucli exposed to its influence during some experi-
nients on the subjectand, on the other hand,
"during tbe prevalence of the Leste," he says,
" my spirits were very mucli exhilarated; and,
ítlthough the temperature was 86a, I never felt any
langour; but, on the contrary, sucli a general
alaerity and vigour about the whole system as
I never experienced under any other circum-
stances." 1
1 Mason on tbe Climate, &c. of Madeira, pp. 152,156.
 MADEIRA. 77
It is well known that medicai mcn, in recom-
mending their patients to resort to a milder climate,
have many diíScultiea to contend against. The
sim pie increase of temperature cannot be obtained
alone, the invalid mnst bc snbjected at the same
time to other meteorological ehanges. W hether
the beneficiai effects of these on disease be greater
or less in Madeira, than in other climates recom-
merided by the faculty, are matters which they are
best able to decide.
The folio wíng meteorological tables form a snni-
mary of obaervations carefully made during 1850,
and the first four montha of the present year.
Though cons ide rabi y condensed and abridged, it
is hoped tliey may etill afford ali the neeesaary
infonnation under tbeir respectivo hcada. They
have been sclccted as affording a fair average of
the climate of Madeira, in those situations usually
chosen for the summer and wínter rcsidence of
invalida. During the former season, from June to
September incluaive, the obaervations were made
in the valley of Machico, at an elevatíon of only
421 feet above the levei of the sea. The instru-
menta were placed at the outside of a window,
Itaving a north aapeet, about ten feet from the
ground, and protected from ali currcnta of air, and
refleeted light, by being placed withín a d nuble
frame of lath-work, covered ontwardly with white
oil-clotli, and lined with flannel; the ínner com-
partment having flannel outwardly, and an interior
lining of blue clotli. The two frames were sepa-
78 MADEIRA.

rated about an ineh from each otlier, allowing a

current of air to pass freely fcetween tliern, and
forming together a box about eighteen inches
square, with a sloping roof; one sitie being of per-
forated zine, and the front completely open towards
tlie window, on the sill of wliich it was secured:
the window being closed lialf-an-honr previous to
each obscrvation.
The readings duríng the winter months were
taken at Mr. Wilkin3on'e boarding-house, a central
positíon in Funchal; and the sarne preeautions
were observed. Tlie window stood at an elevation
of 132 feet above the sea, and 35£ feet from the
ground, with an aspect e.n.e. and perfectly opcn.
Tlie receiver, or funnel of the rain-guage, was
sítuated at an elevation of 148 feet above tlie sea,
and 49 feet from the ground, free from ali eddies
or counter currents, except tbose produced by the
lofty hills sloping npwards towards tlie north.
The instrumenta, excepting the barometcr, were
ali made by Casella & Co.1 of Ilatton-garden, and
corre uponded with each otlier.
1
The wrilor can strongly rccommend the varioni instruments
made by Meesrs. Casella & Co. If orderud for seientific purposesj
their accuracy cannot be stirpassod, and their cbargcs aro cx-
ceedingly moderate.
 M ADE 11'A. 79

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 80 MADEIRA,

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 MADEIRA. 81
In Table I. tlie mean daily temperatura of
February 1850, is increased Io 08 by a Leste of four
days' duration; and that of August, 0° 84, by three
days Leste. Ou tliese occasions tlie highest tem-
peraturc obscrved during the day, by self-registcr-
ing thermometers, was as follows:—

At FUNCHAL. At MACHICO. At St. A. DA SERRA,

133 Feet ibore the Sea. (Quinta das Amexieiras).
421 Fe*t abnve the Se«, 1,489 Prct abore the S^a.
1850. <»*«. 1850. d cg. 1850. d«f.
February 22 75.0 August 27 81.0 August 27 84.0
„ 23 77.0 „ 28 83.0 „ 23 91.0
ii 2+ 74.0 „ 29 77.5 „ 29 80.0
i, 25 76.0

Table III,—Showing tlie Highest and Lúwest Temperature, at the hours

noted, exclusive of Leste, during each month, and Oie MoníMy Mean of
each hour, deduced from daily observations.
1850-1. 8 A M, 2 F.M. 6 F.M, 10 F.M. ±
Month*, Mean. JZ-2f- ' O X
£I j I
Mean. £u {o Mean. J§ Ct
S -3 Z 3 Mctn. 1 I
dr|t- de*.
January 64.0 djf. de*. d cg. d**, d>-g. dpg. d**- deg. dcf. deg.
february. 66.0 54.0 58.72 70.0 61.0 66.13 64j0 58,0 61.69 60.0 53.0 57.46
March .„. 67.5 55.5
59.0
60.73 72.0 65.0
62,00 73.0 64.0
66,89 68.5 58.0
67.54 69.5 62.0
63.68 63.0 55.0
64.35 64.0 56.0
58.37 4
59.67
April 69.0 57.0 65.00 75.0 68.0 71.31 71.0 61.0 68,75 66.0 61.0 64,56
May 70.0 64.0 66,30 75,0 68.5 71.77 74,0 70.22 70.0 60.5
June
Jttljr 68.0 64.0 66.38 71.0 67.0 68.78 68,0 07,0
62.0 65.38 67.0 63.0
65.20 II
64.33
72.0 67.0 69.32 74.0 67,5 71.45 72,0 65.5 68.69 69.0 65.0 66.98
August...
Sepctmb,, 72.0 67.0 69,50 74.5 67.0 71.92 69.5 65.5 68.19 68.5 66.0 67.22 3
72,5 65.0 69.08 76.5 67.0 72.36 71.0 66.0 68,60 69.0 62.0 66.78 Jf
Qctober... 73.0 64.0 68.77 76.5 68.0 72.74 74.5 65.0 70.24 72.5 63.0 67.51
Novemb.. 68,5 61.0 63,03 74,0 67.0 70,16 72,0 64.0 66.46 66,0 61.0 63.71
Decembcr 65.0 56,0 60.37 70,5 60.0 65,67 67.0 58.0 62.38 67.5 56.0 60.11 )I cr
Mean op Y SAR 65.00 69.72 66.55 63.49 7 £.
January,, 63.0 55-5 59.90 70.0 63.0 66.21 65.0 59.0 62.24 63.0 56.0 59.38
february. 61.0 54.0 57.50 69.5 61.0 63.98 64,0 53.0 59.46 60,5 53.0 57.01
March
Vprii 65.0 56.5 61.27 71.0 6L5 66.74 67.0 58,0 62,71 62,5 55.0 58.96
66.5 58,0 63,15 74.0 60 5 68.73 67.0 60.51 64,73 65.5 56.0 61.48 Jl
E3
82 MADEIRA,

Table IV,—Showing ihe Ilighest and Lowest Temperalvres

reijistf,red during títt Day and Night, for each Mon/h, with
lhe Mean Muximum, Mean Minimum, and Mean Monthhj
Range, áedveed frtm daily obtservatitons, exclusive of "Leste"
Self-Rbgistekisg Tuermometers
1850-1. Day. Night.
Me*n
j of
Umo MonOily
V
JC Mean $ Minimum Range.
Mf> thf. ta f Maviítiuin
2 of D*y. 3 of NighL
de*. d<*«. clnr. tU-jr d pí. de*. de*
January .......... 70.0 63.0 66.76 5y.o 51.0 55,25 11.51
February 72,0 65.0 67.08 59.0 53.0 55.20 11.88
March 74.0 63.0 68.66 60.5 52.5 56.60 12,06
A pril........ 76.5 69,0 73.00 64.5 55.5 60.00 13.00
May 77.0 69.5 73,00 66.0 56,5 61.67 11.33
June 72.5 68.0 6b».93 65.0 60.0 62.45 7.48
July 75.0 69.0 72.32 68.0 61.0 65.71 6.61
August 76.0 70.0 73.26 67.5 64,0 66.32 6.94
September....... 78.0 69.5 73.33 67.5 63,0 65.16 8.17
October .......... 78.0 69.5 74.61 70.0 61,0 64,56 10.05
Nbvember 74.5 69,0 70.98 64.0 58.5 61.03 9.95
December 71.5 63,5 66.58 65,5 54.5 58.45 8.13
m 70.79 61.03 0.77
January 70.0 64.5 67.59 60.0 51.0 56.46 11.12
February 69.5 58.0 64.89 58.5 52.0 54.18 10.71
March ............ 71.0 63.0 67.60 60.5 51.5 55.35 12.25
April 74.0 65.5 69.55 65.0 53.0 58.81 64.18

Tabi.e V.—Showing Table IV. uritli " Leste."

1850, Bat. Nigbt. DuTitíon

M*an
of
Monthly of
Mis if Mt-m
MíX i Mc4n
Min- Ru>|«. Le»t«.
Montiic iraMm-
= um. 1 imum.
'1"S. deu dfc. d»-*. de*. d*f.
February .... 77.0 74.0 68.30 69.0 57.0 56.25 12.05 4 days.
August............ 83.0 74.5 74.00 73.0 72.0 66.90 7.10 3 „
 MADEIRA. 83
Ta ele VI,—Mean of IlygrometTical Observalions taken daily
during each Month, at thc hourt noted.

c
c £ 10
1850-1851. Uoua £- 13 A3 5 sE | Cm5c o
J: r
«e i!
£É iè 5 è
é i IS -*■
5*5 33 cr-
23
cyfccS
cífí, de*. dpf. de*. iiwhn snint JltilIL
' 9 A,M. <54,33 59.25 5.0* 55.2 .435 5,258 L820
June j 2 P.M. ti4.92 59.16 5.76 54.5 .424 5.145 2.065 I »
7 p.m, 58.75 56.42 2,33 54.3 .421 ">,175 .817
9 A.M. 65.77 60.53 5.24 56.3 .45! 5.454 1.927 'íf
Jul? | 3 P.M. G5.68 60.63 5,05 56.5 .455 5.491 1.890
7 P.M. 61.95 5 7,92 4.03 54.7 .427 5.212 1.345 * to
7 A.M. 65.19 58.92 6.27 53,9 .415 5.135 2.116 ff
AUÊUit | 3 P.M, 67.20 61.02 6.18 56.1 .448 5.431 2,254 ?"
7 P.M. (33.04 57.52 5,52 53.1 .403 i.899 í.m
8 A.M. 09.08 64,48 4.60 62.8 .566 6.662 1,473
Septcmber.., 2 P.M. 72.30 66.06 6,30 61.6 .543 6.?62 2.644 1?|t
0 P.M. 63.60 64.33 4.27 60.7 .526 6.242 1.798 )?
■S A.M. 68.77 63.48 5.29 59.2 .500 5.963 2,101
Qctober 2 P.M. 72.74 65.86 6.88 60.9 .530 6.228 2.888
6 P.M. 70.24 64.62 5,62 60.7 .526 6,222 2.196
8 A.M. 63.93 58,33 5.60 53.8 ,414 5.033 1.958
N©vember„,| 2 P.M, 70.16 62,35 7.81 56.9 .461 5.5J1 2.907
6 P.M, 66,46 60.38 6.08 55.5 .439 5.306 2.227 •K
8 A.M. 60.37 55.87 4.50 52.3 .398 4.802 1.473 B3
December „| 2 P.M. 65.67 59.01 6.66 5,7 .412 4.998 2.362
a p.m. 62.38 59.93 5.45 52.6 .400 4.836 1.804 $7
8 A.M. 59.90 55.30 4.60 51.2 .379 4.629 1,575 m2.0
January 2 P.M. 66.21 59.37 6.81 53.9 .415 5.027 2.441
6 P.M. 62.24 57.40 4.81 53.5 .409 4.997 1.599 >\JT
8 A.M. 57,50 53.32 4.18 54.6 .356 4.410 1.363 *S
February ,..rj 2 P.M. 63.98 57.70 6.28 52.6 .400 4.830 2.183 3C
6 P.M. 59.46 55, JO 4.36 51.2 .379 4.633 1.483
8 A.M. 61.27 55.17 6.10 50.3 .365 4.^53 1,998 1
March j 2 P.M. 66,74 59.19 7.55 53.2 .415 4.899 2.698
G P.M. 62.71 56.71 6.00 51,9 .397 4.727 2.001
8 A.M. 63.15 57.78 5.37 53.5 .409 4.988 1.828
Apríl. 2 P.M. 68,73 61.80 6.93 56,2 .450 5.403 2.661
6 P, M, 61.73 53.76 4.97 55,8 11 .444 5.377 1.787
84 MADEIRA.

The mean value of thc wet and dry-bulb ther-

mometers, in the preeeding table, for the months
of June, July, and August, have been kindly fur-
ais hed by Dr. Lund, from a regi s ter kept at the
Quinta das Ame-xieiras, near Santo Antonio da
Serra, 1,910 feet above the levei of the sea.
The dew-point is deduced from the temperatures
shown by the wet and dry bulb thermometers, ac-
cording to the following Table of F actor a, gíven in
the " Greenwich Magnetieal and Meteorologieal
Observa tio lis, 1844."

Rcadingi of Fsietor. Krading» of Factor.

Dry-Bulb Thfirounwlfr. Dry-Buib Thermometer,
Between 28 deg. and 29 deg. 5.7 Between 40 deg. and 45 deg. 2.3
29 „ 30 „ 5.0 n ^3 „ 50 f, 2.2
» 30 „ 31 „ 4.6 „ 50 „ 55 „ 2.1
» 31 i* 32 „ 3.6 tt 35 „ 60 „ 1.0
p, 32 „ 33 „ 3-1 60 „ 70 „ 1.8
»■ ** 33 , i 34 tt 2.8 »» 70 tt 80 „ 1*7
» 34 ,, 35 „ 2.6 tt 80 „ 85 „ 1.6
„ 35 „ 40 „ 2.4 «i 85 „ 90 „ 1.5

The differenee of the two temperatures is mui ti-

pi ied by thc proper factor, and the product sub-
tracted from the temperattire of the air gives the
dew-point.
The elastic force of vapour is taken from the
table recommended by Sir John Herschel, in the
" Admiralty Manual of Seientific.Inquiry, 1849."
The eolumn of Weight of Vapour shows the
quantity, in grains, existing in a cubic foot of aír;
and the last colum», the quantity, in grains, re-
 MADEIRA. 85

qiiíred to saturate the same space at the existing

temperatures. These calculations have been made
from tables given in Professor Daniel's work on
Meteorology.
Table VII,—Showing the Mean Height, and Extreme Range of
the Barometer, during each Month ; tlie number of Days on
which Jtain fett, with the quantity in Inche»; and the compa-
raíive Force of lhe Winds,from daily obaervations.
Barometer. Pluviometer, CompwtiTe Force of Windj,
1850-1. vc -c T
0 v-
Months. s nbà —3 a£SJ* asO* fí
h 0 1 2 3 4 5 p
s
January .... 29.91 0.69 3 1.655 10 9 7 3 2 31
February ... 30.05 0.59 1 .094 4 10 10 3 1 28
March 29.98 0.46 9 3,636 2 9 14 4 2 31
April ... 29.91 0.66 2 .840 5 5 13 6 1 30
May 30.00 0.33 5 1.775 4 10 11 6 31
June......... 29.49 0,22 6 .420 3 12 11 4 30
July 29.55 0.29 4 4 11 9 7 31
August 29.50 0.21 5 2 1C 12 6 1 31
September, 29,66 0.36 10 10 9 7 4 30
October 29.97 0,77 12 5.607 4 11 s 7 31
November . 30.17 0.29 1 .090 8 8 9 5 30
December.. 30.11 0.70 8 6.877 4 8 7 7 4 31
Mean... 29.36 0.46 66 20.994 60 112 118 62 12 1 365
January .... 30.20 0.72 3 1.529 9 10 8 4 31
February... 30.02 0.75 12 5,355 10 7 2 5 3 28
March ...... 30.25 0,33 0 7 14 7 3 31
April,. 29.93 0.72 10 3.800 6 12 5 5 2 30

The preceding Table shows the quantity of min

for Funchal only, Tlie slight summer showers,
passing o ver the more elevated positions above
Machico, have been duiy registered in the eolumn
of days 011 which rain fell, although tlie quantity
 86 MADEIRA,
lias not bccn as certa ined. Duríng the months of
July, August, and September, there was no de-
posit in the "rain gauge" at Funchal.
The readings of tlie barometer for tlie fir&t four
months are taken from tlie observa tions of Drs.
Ilemeken and Ilenton, ninety feet above the sea,
duríng tlie six years from 1826 to 1831.
The comparative force of the winds are regis-
tered by numbers; viz.—
0 deiioting calm. S denotlng fresh breese.
1 1} liffht air. 4 H strong or víolent wlnd.
2 „ gentle breeje. 3 „ rooderate gale.
Tabus VIU.—Skowing the number of Days in each Month
during which the different Winds prevailed.
18,50-], *
Momb*. 5 st'
Jantiary
February
March 3 2 10
ApriTt 1 "I 3 3
May
June fl ■
July .1.
August........
September ... 6
October 1
November ... 2 ... ;-..a
December.... i j
Meak.. 27 7 7 18 10 37 M: 365
January ...... 2 ... 4 2 lo' !1
February... I 2 1 2S
March ...U .. 31
ApriJ I ! 4 S: 1 30
From the position of tlie basin of Funchal, open
only towarda tlie south, it is difficult to aseertain
 MÀDEIKA. 87

the true course of tlie winds; and the different

eddies or currents, caused by tlic viciníty of the
mountaics, rcnders eitlier a vanc or ancmometer of
little uae. The direction of the winds, in tlie pre-
cedmg Table, liave been registered from tlie "carry"
of tlie lower strata of clouds, or from the eom-.se
of tlie country hoats passing the Brazen-head.
Duríng the continnaiice of Jíorth and Xortli-East
winds, a gentle weBterly breeze, or back eurrent,
usuaily bio ws into the bay of Funchal.
The mean temperaturc of Malaga, given in the
following Table, lias been deduced from observa-
tíons made duríng 1850, by Dr. Shortliff, wli o lias
resided there for some ycars, and to whom the
author is indebted for tlie table wliich will be
found appended.1
The teraperature of Madeira for 1850, in the
same table, is takcn from tlie mean maximum and
mean mmimam, obtained by self-registering ther-
mometcrs, as given in Table 1V., from observa tlons
madc at Funchal duríng the winter, and at the
Quinta da San? JÍiiná, above Machico, duríng tlic
months of June, July, August, and Scptember.
The pieceding temperature, tlirougbout the year,
applies to Funchal only, and ha3 been obtained,
with those of the other localitics, from Sir James
Clark's work on Climate, to which the reader is
referred for inore eoneise and general information
regarding tlie various plaees resorted to by in-
valida during the winter.
1
S<?e ArpendíK K.
 CHAPTER IX.

SALCBRITT OF TIIÈ C1IMATE.—ITS tFFECTE OK FrTLMOKAÍlT

MSEiEES.

In a work like th is, intended as a guide for

invalida visiting Madeira, it is nnnecessary to give
a detailed aceount of the diseases to which thc
native9 and foreign residente are Hable; but the
foi lo w mg brief remarks, ohtained from a medicai
friend of the author, may not be considered out of
place, as bearing on the suhjeet of the salubrity of
tlie climate of the island.
The result of ali the observaiions obtained by
Sír James Clark on the climate of Madeira, and
the othcr foreign resorts of English invalida, is in
hia own words,—" It (Madeira,) is warmer during
the vrinter, and cooler dnring tlie summer; there
is less diffcrence between the temperatura of the
day and that of the niglit, between one season and
another, and between successive days: it is almost
exempt from keen, cold winds; and enjoys a
general steadiness of weather, to which the conti-
nental elimates are strangers."
tóuch a climate ought to be a healtliy one, and
the experience of many wlio have tried it, and of
many who are now trying it, as well as the testí-
90 MADEIRA.

mony of Englishmen wh o have been settlcd fiere

in buainess during many years, will bear out the
conclusion.
There are no discas es that can be said to be
peculiar to Madeira: and, althougli tlie inliabitauts
are subject to many of those cominou to moTe
nortliern latitudes, these, in general, assume a mild
form, One or two diseafies of tlie skin, liowever,
that are not met with in England, but are common
in warm clímates, are seen in Madeira;—such are
Blephantiasis and Lepra, of whieli loathsome dis-
eases tlie hospital Saõ Lazaro eontains many cases,
and it is not diflicult to discover their origin in the
poor living and destitution among the lower classes,
combiued with the warmth of tbe eliinate, and the
neglect of cleanliness in their persons and liabi-
tations.
A fact wcll known to medicai men, and to most
of the Englisb rcsidents who have reared faniilies
in the island, is the remarkable exemption enjoyed
liere froin most of the complaints to whicb children
are exposed in England during the early years of
life, and the case with which infants get over the
períod of teething—a time of great anxiety to
mothers in general. Yet there is no doubt that
the alternations of temperature in such a climate
as that of England have a braeing effect, and
children who are originally of healthy constituí ion,
and brought up there, are more robust in after life.
Zyinotic diseases, as they are callcd, (measles,
scarlatina, &c.,) are seldom met with in Madeira ;
 MADEIRA. 91

and when an epidemic of any of tliese does occur,

the disease appcars in a mucli milder forni tlian we
generally see in England.
During one season, a few years ago, the small-
pox proved extensively fatal among thc natives,
but its introductioo was clearly traoed to tlic crew
of a vessel from abroad, and occurred also at a
time when the sanitary regulations oi the port did
n ot exist, or were carelessly enforced.
Inftammatory fever is seldom met with, but a
mixed fever, of a typhoid type, frcquently makes
its appearance toward the end of tlie summex; it
occura only in detached cases, and appcars to
posscss nothing of a contagious nature, but not
unfrequently proves fatal, lnfiamniatory atlections
of the bowels are not uncommon among the lower
classes, caused chiefly, as l>r. Gourlay long ago
remarked, by the poor people, when overheated and
fatigued by tlieír incredibly laborious oeeupations,
imprudently drinking copiou sly of cold water.
DyseiiU*vy, a disease so fatal in tropical cl mi ates,
is not unknown in the severe forni familiar to our
medicai practitioners in the East and W est Indies,
nevertheless, at ccrtain seasons, and especially
during a season of scarcíty of provisíon that oc-
curred about three years ago, the disease proved
frcquently fatal among tlie ill-ted and ill-clothcd
poor,
A mild Diarrhosa occa3Íonally annoys the
stranger on his arrival from a cold climate, but tlns
cannot be said to be in any way peculiar to
 92 MADEIRA.
Madeira, as it is wcll known that thc traveller
is liable to be subjected to the same complaint
on first taking up his residence in any part of
southern Europe, or evcn in any of thc continental
towna. Th is may bc the consequenoé simply of
changc from the mode of living on board ship to
that on shore, combined witli the increased tempe-
rature, or the result of imprudence; but it certainly
is not the lot of every stranger on his airival here.
Dr. Watson, speaking of this kind of Diarrhcea,
says, An ar ti ele of díet which is perfectly wliole-
some and digestible, and which the stomach bears
"^sll after a Iittle habit, will some ti mes cause
griping and purging, when it is taken for the first
timc
I do not kno-vv that it is so, but I
think it very likely that Frenchmen, and Germana,
and Italians, suffer in the same way wlien they
first come to this country (England,) and adopt
our habita and regimen."—Lecturea on Practice
of Physic.
The stranger who may be in perfect health, or
the invalid landing in Madeira in search of health,
are alike subject to this kind of Diarrhcea, which'
it must be remembered, is a very different thing
from that morbid relaxation of the bowels to which
many of the latter class of visitors are liable, and
which is one of the symptoms of their disease,
Cowumption, and very frequeritly aceompanies its
advanced stage.
Acute rheumatic aífections, with their usual and
dangerous coneomitant, disease of the heart, are
 MADEIRA. 93
vcry une0111 mon in Madeira, and chronie rheum-
atísm, which so often cripplea and disfigures the
eufferer in England and other northem countries,
13 almost itnkriown. Tlie greatest benefít Í3 de-
nved from a short residence here by patiente
labounng under the latter fonn of rheumatism.
The
3 Bedentuy habita of the better elass of the
Portuguesc render thcin very liable to hemorrhoida,
as well as nervous dyspeptic complamts.
Although the climate of Madeira i3 so veiy
equable, it is not altogether frec from changes,
. constitute here, as well as elscwhere, the
excitmg canse of pulmonaiy and inflammatory
affeetions, These, however, as may be supposed,
are comparatively rare among the better classes,
and occur chiefly among the hard-working poor|
who are more exposed to this causc, and to sudden
elidis of the surfacc while perspiring profusely.
An epidemic catarrh not unfrequently makes its
appearanee about tlie montlis of August and Sep-
tember, or before the annual rains, whieh usuallv
occur in October.
It is now pretty well understood that no chmate
affords entire exemption from scrofulous diseases.
W heneverthe exciting causes are applied, in what-
ever part ot tlie worid, these diseases manifest
tlicmselves; pulmonary consumption is eonnceted
with what is called the scrofulons diathesis, and
occurs aniong the natives of Madeira, but prevails
much less among them than it does among tlie
natives of more cliangeable climates. That it
94 MADEIHA.

sliould occur is not to be wondered at when we

íind many of the causes oi thc scrofulous diivtliesis
in full operation among a large proportion of them.
The se causes are chiefly imperfect food and clotliing
in childhood and youth, and dehcicncy of fresh air
in their low, damp dwellings or huts, eombmed
wit-li over-exertion. It sliould also be remcnibered
that thc natives of Madeira must be subject to con-
sumption when tlie cxciting causes are applicd, for
a reason given by Dr. Alison, wlio, spcaking of tlie
natives of warm cliniates, shows that the long-con-
tinued appl ications of heat m early lifc are weakening,
and thcrefore favourable to the formation of the
acrofulous habit; and it is found by expericnce
that tbey are (bot.h white and black,) peeuliarly
liable to scrofulous diseases when they come to
colder clÍmates.
With regard to thc effects of the climate of
Madeira on puhnonary disease, thc following valu-
ablc information, which haa been kindly furiiished
by Dr. Lund, will be found interesting to the
medicai profession generally, as wcll as to those
wlio are in search of health, or who may be in-
terested in otliers requlring a change ot climate.
" Cousumption has long been known as one of
the most fatal diseases occurring in Great Bvitain,
and this great and well-known fatality is plainly
shown in the following extract from Banfield's
Statwtical Companion for 1850The reporte
of the Registrar-General show that in one year, in
Etigland and Walcs, 59,025 died from consump-
 MADEIRA. 95
tion, bcing 18.2 per cent., or nearly onc-fifth of
the entire mortality.'"
Sir James Clark, from collecting tlie observa-
tions ot (liffercnt standard authovities, es ti mates
the ordinary duration of this disease to be from
nine months to two years; that is, from the first
consumptive symptom being observed untíl the
disease ends fatally—ali its different stages are
passed through in this sliort period.
\\ e also find in The First Medicai Report of the
Drompton Hospital for Consumption the foliowing
Table of 215 fatal cases:—

«UAftTKRLY 1IALF-YBAHLY PERIODS.

PtKlODS.
« V •DÁ■í ?> * í i ™ J3 nJe si M £ * —
s ? n3 ~9 %á
* g os 3 ~ li
3s l i *3
U A3 £3
•!Zú to J si <3 s| |! 33 Q
Both Sexeí. 1 22 3C 30 34 22 23 6 y 4 14 14 215
Per cent,..„ 10,2 lfi.7 13.1 I5.t 10 2 10.5 2.8 4.2 l.í> e.3 6,5

fhus, there occurred within one year 89 deaths;

within 18 montha 123 ; and within 30 months as
tnany as 168 out of 215; leaving alive at that
period the small number of 47.
In the midst of such calamitous results a cheer-
ing gleam of hope broke forth, when, during tlie
endeavours of different medicai observers to aseer-
tain the canse of death in variara diseases, it was
found that consumptive disease had existed where
it had not been suspected, and that nature had
been busily occupied in making eíforts towards
96 MADEIRA,

a cure, and this, too, under unfavourable circum-

stances. Tbeae observations, though few in num-
bcr, being well autlienticated, established tlic fact,
tliat consumption waa not always fatal; and further
experienee has fully proved tbat persons coming,
for varioua per ioda of time, to sueh a climate as
Madeira in the early, or occasionally in tlie ad-
vanced stages of tlie disease, liave their complaints
arrested, where they liave. the pradence to conjoin
proper regimen and treatment with tlie eff&cts of
elimate. In ali stages the mosi distressing symp-
toms are, almost invariably, so much ameliorated
as to cause comparatively little inconvenienee, and
where this relicf does not occur the case is an
exception to the general rnile. Even in the most
advanced stages the downward progress of the dis-
ease is mucli retarde d, ali the distressing symptoms
ameliorated, and the patient lias the grcat advan-
tage of freely inlialing a balmy atmosplicrc out of
doors, which gives much relíef. The great majo-
rity are thus enabled to pass with comfort tbeir
remainitig term of life, and can generally take out-
of-door exercisc, or sit in a garden, until a day or
tira before finally sinking.
This afforda a great contrast to what the invalid
suffers at home, where, being necessarily coníined
within doors, and deprived of many enjoyments,
lie passes through a long and dreary wiuter in
an artificially-heated and vitiated atmosphere—no
mode of warming apartments being evev free from
an oppressive closenes3, which is not felt in tlie
 MADEIRA, 97
open air. Persons in England may delude tliem-
selves into the idea that ií ia possible to make an
artificial fiadeira climate, but they may rcly upon
being mistaken. No means as yet discovered can
compensate for a natural, mild, and puré atmo-
sphere, affording opportunities of regular daily
exerci se.1
In order to illustrate as correctly as possible the
effeets of the climate of Madeira on consumptive
disease, 1 have arrangcd 100 cases from my note-
book, and as nearly as possible in the order in
whieh thcy are entered. Tbe progress of the dis-
ease I have divided into three stages, viz,—
Ist. Whero tbe lung ia not broken down.
2d, Whore the limg haa bcguu to brcak down.
3d. Whcre the lung ia greatly broken down.
In the first class, ali had some of the symptoms
and sígns appcrtaining to consumption, and most
of them were sent out by expert Stethoscopists
either as actually diseased or strougly tlireatened.
Some had tbcir lungs extensively solidified; a few,
probably, liad not genuine tubercidar consumption,
but had so much induration of the lung, accom-
panied with untoward symptoms, as ío Ieave no
doubt
1
In tbe Hospital for Coasumption at Brompton, where an
artificial Madeira climate ia attempted, and most likcly carríed out
43 suecessfully as artificial means will allow, an oppressive warmth
is felt. And the faet of two of tho Assistanl Physieians to thát
Institution, when invalided, having eome to Madeira, shows that
meditai men in their own cases fullj' appreciatc the advantiufOí
of a warm natural climate.
F
98 MADEIRA.

ttM
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i J5I
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ás 1 cl |q *5i -9=
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g_o s-o |<9 ■í'Í^Í •ç|s . * o í"SS S
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Iff 1==££^ í j, u 3 Jí —=W=,C5 £
| N ~ *s
.= ■ S " I 3=3 4»
Í£
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II_ & s.*a
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S a 11 5- í:~ uo.£< si lá
s - .£-. tf'r2C »aS«c? c"r3=Sí
nn
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Ips1 i| li sjjêsf llllti
«£%£ «5*3 •-* ihllMíij

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-taifKni
QOdtl 4ÍI)S
 MADEIRA.

ss Is

I?
áa

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,C w
sl
=s o s* • -g5
OJ£ "3» £ 2 Sí* '
Sí c
s fci-;

§
100 MADEIRA.

doubt. that, had they not left England, they most

assuredly would, sooner or later, have died phthi-
sieal. Some cases marked in the seeond stage,
might, with propriety, liave liecn plaeed in the
thírd, but I reserved this laat for the very ad~
vaiiced cases, and where distinct evidence of a
large cavity or cavities existed.1
These cases show, that, in the early stage, a pa-
tient ooming to Madeira lias a very fair chance of
having the disease pcrmanently arrested, or, if
more advanced, of gaining a prolongation of life,
and avoidance of many distressing syniptoms.
The actual duration of the disease is not given;
in England its utniost estent is two years. The
cases coming to Madeira in the moTc advanced
stage were composed of those wh o had tried other
places, and carne here as a last resource; and the
whole are marked, not from the first invasion of
the attack, but from the date of tlieir landing.
Tliere are other cases not mentíoned in the Madeira
table tliat have been sent out as hopehss cases, and
are now living here ín the enjoyment of good
liealth, and have done so for ten years and up-
wards.
1
Sce Table in preceding pagos.
 CHAPTER X.

ME ANS OP REACHJNO MADEIRA—OUTFIT—CTRRENOr— MÀILS—

PASSP0RT3—LANDI KG—CUSTOM-HOUSE.

The conveyances to Madeira were formerly few,

tedious, and ill-suited for invalida; and tlie accom-
modation for vi ai tora on thcir arrival was far frora
satisfactoiy; only one or two boardmg-liouses cx-
isted, and these of a very mediocre description.
This want, however, was in many cases compen-
sai ed by tlie kind hospitality of the Engliah mer-
cliants, whoae doors were ever open to receive
those reconimended to thcir attcntions; and wliose
princely entertainments, during tlie flonrisliing
state of the island trade at that time, are still
looked back upon with grateliil reeollections by
many.
These disadvantages no longcr cxist. From the
small number who resorted to Madeira only twenty
years ago, the annual arrivals liave now increased
to from 300 to 400 persons. The opportunitie3
of reaehing the island are frequent, and the meahs
of conveyanee of a very superior description. The
increase of accommodation lias also kept pace with
102 MADEIRA.
the influx of visitors, and now affords every com-
fort that the most fastidions could dcsire.1
Several fast-sailing vessela, built expressly for
the trade between England and Madeira, com-
manded by experienced seamen, and fitted up with
eveiy regarei to the accommodation and comfort of
passengers, leave Sontlmmpton aí statcd intervals
direet for Madeira, and acoomplish the voyage,
nnder ordinary circumstanees, in from eight to
twelve days. These are—
The brig BríUiomt, of 373 tom; register; Captam J. B.
Calbeck, Agents: Messrs. II. & C. Touimin, 31, Great
St Helen's, Bishopsgate-street, London; Mr. T. Hill,
Oriental-place, Southampton; and llesíra. Jos. Phelps
& Co,, Madeira.
Tha brig Cornet, of 260 tons; Captam J. Airth; anil the
brig Eclipse, of 246 tons; Captain C. B. Davi». Agents ;
Messrs. Rayden & Reid, 3, Saa couri, Cornhill; Mr. N. M.
Priaulex, Southaxnpton; and ilesare. Stoddart & Co.,
Madeira.
The brig Dart, of 242 tons; Captain J. Bell. Agents; Mr.
T. Stephings, 3, Wal b rook-buildingfl, London; Mr. J. W.
Deal, 80, High-strcet, Southampton; and Mr. J, II. Holl-
waj, Madeira.

1
IIow much ignorance prevails in England on this subject
may bc gathered from the fact, that an eminent authority on
discases of the chest, on being consulted in 3x>ndon by a friend
of the author, during the last season, with regard to the eligihOity
of Madeira as a vrinter residenee for his diseafe, remarked that
invalids in Madeira were deprired of ali the comforts they enjoyed
in England, That Madeira had its wínter, as well as England;
and during that season tbere were feiv days on which an invalid
iTould be able lo Bit in the bouso without a great-eoat over his
shonldeTS ! 1
 MADEIRA. 103

The firsí of these vessels was oríginally intended

for a pleasure yacht; lias a fltish deck, and accom-
modation for 54 passengers; she sails nearly every
month, frora Soutliampton only.
The others liave raised quarter-decks, sail fast,
and liavc accommodation for about 45 passengers
each. One or other of these vessels sail, on an
average, nearly every fortnight fremi London, and
call at Soutliampton for passengers.
These packcts are ali fitted np ivith family and
double-berthed eabins, well ventllatcd, witli good
bedding, and evcn the luxury of a bath-cabin.
The attendance on board is tmly exeellent, and
the table ís most libe rally and pleutifully supplied,
including wines, portei', ale, &c. and in faet ali the
comforts that could be deslred. The passage-
money ís 17?.; children and servanta, 10?. each.1
A small gratuity is usually given to the stewards
of about lOs. for each passe nger. The regular
period for the sailing of these vessels wi 11 be found
in the second column of the Times newspaper.
Besídes the regular Madeira Packets, the lately
established line of Itoyal Mail Steamers to Erazil,
sail frora Soutliampton at half after eleven o'eloek
in the ruoniing of the 9tli of every month, and,
proeeeding by way of Lisbon, are due at Funchal
on the morning of the 18th. The voyagc to
Lisbon usually occupies about four and a halt days;
at this port tliey remaín twenty-four hours, and
1
herc there are several children, a reduetion is usually made
in the Fare.
104 MADEIRA,

twelve hours at Madeira. The passage-money by

t lie se Bteamere is as follows :—
From Southampton to Madeira, Eacli
Passenger.
Singlc berthcd after caliiás , . . £30
ditto foro cabina . , . 25
Double-berthed after cabina . . . 22
ditto fore cabina , . . 20
From Lisbon to Madeira, 35 dollars = 71. 17s. 6d. at 4». 6<í.
per dollar, or according to the eurretit oxcbange at Lisbon.
Femaie aervante are charged two^ttiirds; male aervanta, and
children between the agea of eight and twelve yeans, one-
liaif; and children between the ages of three and eight
years, ono-qnarter of the usual fare; children under three
years of age, free.

These charges are exclusive of wínes, &c., and

ltiggage is límited to twenty cubie feet to eacli
passenger, The agents are—
The Royai Mail Steam Packet Company, 55, Moorgate-
atreet, London;
Mr. Duffel, Company'a Office, Winkle-atreet, Southampton;
And Messrs. Gordon, Duff & Co. Madeira,1
Opportuiiitíes of reaehing the ialand by East
and West índia merchant ships, sailing from
London, Liverpool, or Glasgow, and touching at
Madeira ou tbeir oatward voyage, frequently offer
during the autumn, but, though usually of larger
1
Theae ateamera retnrn to England, viâ Madeira and Lisbon,
and aio due at Madeira on the third of eacli monlb. Retum
tickets are isaued, with ati abatemeat of 25 per eent. on the pas-
sage money, and perroission to remam at Madeira for the vrhole
or any porlion of the season,
 MADEIRA. 105
toimage tlian the regular traders, the cômforts are
by no means equal, ainl tlie passenger is required
to furnish his own bedding, &e., the cost of whieh
is usually from 3/. to 4L Tlieir sailing is fre-
quently put off from day to day ; and tlieir usual
or average passage ia eonsiderabl.y longer than
tbat of tlie otlier sailing paekets.
A fine first-elass brig, íhe Galgo, of 248 tons,
Captain Avellar, sails from Lisbon for Madeira
about oncc a month; this vessel ia fitted up witl i
a degree of eomfort almost equal to the English
trader3, and performs the voyage in from four
to six days. Tlie passage-money is 61. 5s. in-
cluciing a well-supplicd table, wine, bedding, &e.
The agents are Mr. James Wardrop, 18, Little
Tower-street, London; Mr. C. A. Munro, Lisbon;
and Messrs. Freittas, Abreu & Co. Madeira, The
Peninsular Steam Packets, wliieh leave Soutliamp-
ton for Lisbon on the 7th, 17th, aud 27th of every
month, render this an easy and agreeable route to
tliose who are in no huxry to reaeh the ialand.
The agents for the Galgo, at Lisbon, will attend
to the clearance of luggage, &e. for tliose parties
proceeding by their vessel to Madeira.
The dock charges at Southampton on luggage
are very trifíing, avcraging about 3d. per package,
whieh is paid at the gate on entering.
It is by no means neeessary for invalida, or
others proeeeding to Madeira, to lay in a large
supply of clothing. Sueli articles as are worn in ■
England duriiig tlie spring, are quite suitable for
p 3
 106 MADEIRA.

the winter in Madeira; and lightcr clotliing, sliould

ít bc found necessary, can be obtained eqnally as
good, and quite as cheap as in London. Calico
ahírts aie better snited to the cliraate tlian those
of lincn; and flannel underclothing sliould not be
omitted.
Ti is rccoraraended that eacli passcnger, previous
to embarking, provide himself with a receptacle
for liia brushes, and other articles of tlie toilet, to
prevent their rolling about with every motion of
the vessel. This can easily be prepared vrith a
small square of brown-holtand, having a double
row of poekets sewn on to it, and fastened with a
«ma! 1 nail at each comer, in some convenient part
of liis cabin. One or two good table bells will
be found useful to those who purpose occupying
fumished houses.
With regard to money-matters, it will be found
jndicious to carry out, in speeie, as much as will
cover the expenses of some months' sojoiun, and
thns save much trouble, as well as the loss whieh
is frequently sustained in the exchange on bills,
often amounting, with oommission, &c., to three
and even five per cent. A letter of credit, however,
may be found useful, and one or two of introduc-
tion are ali that is necessary.
Mexican and Spanish dollars, as well as English
and American gold and silver coins, are corrent in
Madeira, at fixed rates. The only Portuguese
, coins in circulation are those of eopper, the others
being Spanish pístareens, or lOrf. silver pieces, and
 MADEIRA. 107

those already mentioned. A table of the island

curreney will lae found appended.1
Tlie raaila for Madeira are made up in London
on the morning of the 9th of every month, for the
Brazil packet sailing frora Southampton. Letters,
&c., are also forwarded via Lisbon by the Penin-
sular mails, if specíally so addressed, but this con-
veyanee is uncertain, and not to be recommended,
as they frequently rcmain a long time at Lisbon,
tliere being 110 regular mail from thence to fia-
deira.
The postage must be prepaid, on letters not
exeeeding half-an-ounee Is. 1(M, and on news-
papers 2d. eaeh. A letter-bag is also made up at
the office of the respective traãers; if delivered
there, they are forwarded free of charge; when sent
througli the Post-Office, and specially endorsed for
these vessels, a postage of 8d. must be paid. A
like suni is also charged on ali letters delivered at
the Post-Office in Madeira. NewBpapera are deli-
vered at the Britísh eonsulate, free ot charge.
Invalide, and other passengers, proceeding to
Madeira, usually desire to leave England in the
latter part of September, or early in Oetober, in
consequenee of wliieh the applieation for berths, by
the sailing packets, is greater at that pertod than at
any other season, and renders it advisable to make
an early selection, at ali ©venta where there are
several members of a family who desire to be toge-
ther. To seeure a passage, a depoait, or rather
1
Seo Appendii L.
108 MADEIRA.

payment of one-half of the farc bccomcs necessary,

the other moiety bcing paid before embarking.
The agente will furnish parti es with a plan of tlie
cabin of their respectivo vessels, on application by
letter or othenvise.
For those proceeding dircct to Madeira, pas aporta
are not at ali necessary, as no impediments what-
ever are tlirown in the way of passengers landíng,
but a charge or fine of 1,200"- = 5,i. for the omis-
sion, is exaeted by the police authorities wlien they
furniah the permit-of-residence, or the passport
which is required by ali persons on Ieaving the
island. It is preferable, however, to submit to this
exaction, and avoid the payment of ten shillnigs
for a passport in England.
Tlie usual charge for landing at Funchal in
a two oared boat is 300"' = 1í. 3c?.; if in a four
oared boat, 200"' = 10c?. extra. Strangers are,
however, greatly imposed upon by the Portuguese
boatmen, and, no established tariff existing, a3
raueh a9 2Os. lias frequently been demanded.
Visitors and others on their arrival and departnre
generally pay more for their boat hire than oti
other occasions, a eus tom which the Madeira boat-
men iiow geeni to look upon as a law. It is there-
fbre advisable to leave the settlement of their
charge to the landlord of the house in which you
take up your quarters for the time bcing, who will
generally see that no imposition takes place.
Having landed at Funchal, the vi si to r will find
no difficulty in obtaining aecommodation; nearly
 MADEIRA. 109
ali tlie boarding establishments, as well as those
termed hotelg, will receive passengers for a few
days, or till they can decide on, or procure, a per-
manent residence.
Tlie inost nervous or fastidious invalid nced be
under no appreliension tliat there are any impor-
tant diffieulties to be cncountered in proceeding to
or landing at Madeira. Tlie interests of the Ialand
are so materially promoted by the sojoum of
visitors, that the local authorities adopt every
measure to encourage their presence; and, 111 ali
their custom-housc and municipal regulations,
render every facility both on their arrival and
departure.
Passengers' luggage, except a carpet bag, or
a few ar ti cies for immediatc use, cannot be removed
from the vessel tilí application lias been made at
the casinha, or customs-guard house, and, on being
furnished with a list of the packages, they send an
offieer to convey them on shore. To facilítate this,
it is advisable to deliver your principal letter of
introduetion as early as possible, and the parties
will willingly lend their assistance, or the landlord
of the boarding-house will do ali that is needful in
the ease.
The custom-house at Madeira offers an example
to ali other9. The greatest politeness and promp-
titude are shown to ali visitors, the detention of
luggage is brief, and the examination conducted on
most liberal principies. Ali wearing apparel, and
bed or table linen having been in use and belonging
110 MADEIRA.

to persons arriving, are aliowed to pass free of

duty. Silk or otlier dresses not made up, or ladiea'
bonnets and dresses which liave not been in use or
in unreasonable nurabers, are cliarged accordingly.
Ali plate, or plated articles, articles of fuiniture,
saddlery, and musical instrumenta, &c., are freely
admitted, on giving bond for their reshipment, or
payment of the duties, within eighteen montlis.1
Soap, tobacco, cigars and snnff are prohibited,
the supplying of these articles being leased, by the
Povtniguese Grovernment, to a private company,
who furnish the island with trash, and, particu-
larly with regard to soap, at an exorbitant price.
Tea is also prohibited unless imported in Por-
tuguese vessels from Lisbon, or direct from the East
Indies.
The charges at the eustom-hou3e, in clearing
luggage, are trifling. 400"- = ls. 8d. is usually
allowed to tlie officer bringing it on sliore, besideíi
the hire of the boat, and from 50™- to 130"- = "2\ã.
to 5d. per package for porterage, &c., aceording to
tlieir number and síze.
1
For a liít of duties chargeable in Madeira, see Appendix K.
 CHAPTER XI.
BOABDING-HOITSES — FU RN IS HE D HOtSES — SERVANTS — HORSKS —
PALANQUINS— HAMH0CE3 SLRDOES*— BOATTKG—SHOPS—CLUBS—
LIBRARIES— PEW-RENTS - MEDICAL PRACTITtOHERS—DRTJGGISTS—
ME ANS OP RETURNINO TO ENGLAND.

The increaae of visitors to Madeira within these

last few yeara lias added considerably to the num-
ber of boarding-liouses throughout FLinchai. These
are situated in almost every quarter of the town,
and afford ample room for aeleetíon. The prin-
cipal establislimenta are here given in alphabetical
order, and in hÍ3 choice the stranger can be guided
by his own observations, or the recommendation of
bis íriends or medicai adviser, as regards position
and other advantages:—
Cearns, Wm, 33, Rua da Carreira.
Cou&is, D., 22, Rua do Aljube.
Freitas, J. H., 57, Rua da Carreira,
Fronch, Mrg., £6 and 50, Eua da Carreira.
Giulietti, Madam, European Hotel, 1, Travessa d'Alfandega.
Hayírard, Mrs., i, Eua de Saõ Pedio.
HoUway, J. H., Caminho do Meio, and 16, Eua do Aljube. (1)
Mace, Thos., 33, Caminho da Torrinha. (2)
MeGinn, Mies, 2, Eua das Aranhas.
Milea, Jno., 14, Eua dos Pintos.
Pestana, Madam, Caminho de St». Luzia Veiiw. (3)
Reid, Wm,, 5, Eua do Mercado.
Sliaw, Mrs , 19, Rua do Castanheiro.
112 MADEIRA.
Wardrop, Mies, 36, Iiua da Carreira,
Wilkinson, S., Iíua do Estudo.
WilkitiBon, Wm,, liua de Ponte Nova.
Tates, Jno., " Family Hotel," Caes.

Besides tbe foregoing, tliere are a few private

farailies where two or three persons ean find com-
fortable aceommodation. Those marked 1, 2, 3,
are si tu ate d at tlie oiatskírts of the town, at an ele-
vation of 298, 293, and 525 feet, respeetively,
above the sea.
There 13 a batli establishment attaclied to Mr.
8. Wilkinson's boardi n g-house, Eua do Estudo.
Tbe landlord also acts as liouse-agent, and will
furnish those wh o wish to lure a quinta, or vil la, for
the season, with every requisite information.
Tlie eharges at the boarding-houses vary, aeeord-
ing to tlieir standing, from forty to fifty dollars per
month, whích inelude3 wines of the island, and
every neeessary comfort. The majority provide
a general table only, but accommodatioii may be
obtained entirely separate from tlie other inmates
at an extra cliarge of about ten dollars per month,
or according to the eonveniences required. Foreign
wines, spirits, and malt liquors, are not included.
Servants and children are usually eharged one-
half, and it is eustomary 011 leaving to present
a small gratuity to the domestica of the establish-
ment.
The charge for washing ia from 1,500"- to
2,000"- = Os. 3d. to 8s. 4d. per month for eaeh per-
son, or 250"- to 300"- = Is. \d. to Is. 3c?, per
 MADEIRA. 113
dozeii pieeefl. In the case of a family, however,
a ii agreeraent is usual ly made at a somewhat
lower rate.
There are uo lodgings to "be had in Madeira
similar to those in England, where the parties
supply t lie ir own cuisine; but for those who de-
sire furnished houses a selection may he had in
ahnost every locality at the outskirts of the town,
where they are mostly situated, with gardens and
stabling attached. A líst of the se, with their ele-
va tion above the sea, will be found appeuded,1 and
eveiy information regarding accommodation and
other particular3 may be obtaincd at tlie grocery
establishment» of Messrs. Wilkinson, or Mr. Payne.
In hiring a furnished quinta, or villa, for the
season, the períod shouhl be distinctly epecified,
and a written agreement made with the landlord.
One-half of the rental is usually paid on taking
possession, and the other moiety at the expiration
of three months, It is also advisabie to examine
the inventory carefully, and to specify the add i -
tions required to it, before eoneluding the agree-
ment. One blanket and one counterpane are
furnished to eaeh bed, and ali bed and table linen,
toweling, &c., nmst be provi ded by the party
themselves, as well as plate of eyeiy description.2
The greater number of these houses may be
híred for the whole year for a few pounds extra,
1
See Appcndix IT,
* Furnished houses are not let by the month, unless the
season he far adranced.
114 MADEIRA.
and thcre are no taxes or public burdena of any
kind attached. Tlie landlorda usually cíaim a right
to thc garden and produee, unlees excluded by
a speeial agreement.
With regard to servants, there is little or no
diffieulty in aelecting thc requisite establishment.
They are geuerally hired by the month, tlie wages
vatying aceording to their qualifications:—
For a. superior cook, from 7 to 9 do] Iara. \
„ good plain do. , . 5 to 7 „ [ Men servantB.
„ „ waiter . . . 6 to 9 „ )
„ housc or table-maid 3 to 5 „
„ stableboy . , . 2 to 3 „ )
„ ljurriqueiro or groom 4 to fl ( ^'thout food.
The higher rate is usually expected when the
servaut ean speak or understaud a few worda of
English. It is by no ineans adviaablc to bríng ont
English servant3; unleaa they liave becn long
accustomed to the famiíy they aeeompany, they
generally oeeasion more trouble tban is repaid by
their assistance. Not speaking the language, they
are of little use in Madeira, and, differing in their
habita from the Portugueae domeatiea, reqnire a
separa te table and attendanee. At sea they are
equally useless, abandoning tliemselves to tlie pro-
strai ion of sea-aickness, and appearing to suffer
greatly more than their employers.
Yisitora who are partial to horae-exeTcise should
bring out their own saddlea, as thoae to be had on
the Island are general ly very ha rd and uncomfort-
able. Althougii there are few horses to be found
 ■madeira: 115
in Madeira without some blemish, the síyle of
animal lias been greatly improved of late by im-
portations fremi England, America, and Portugal,
and, in purchasing, a considerable selection is
offered at priees varying from 40 dollars for small
island ponies, to 200 dollars, or even upwardâ, for
large or superior animais. Li long journeys, or in
trave 11 mg along the narro\v rugged roads of tlie
nortli, the smaller horses, not exceeding 12 hands,
are usually preferred, and for 70 or 80 dollars
a decent pony of this size may be obtained. In
selling again in the 3pring, however, the visitor
must make up his mind to submit to a conaiderable
loss. The expense of keep is about seven dollars
per moníh, exclusive of attendance. Stablíng is
charged at the boarding eatablishments from to
2 dollars = 6,9. 3d. to 8s. Aã. per month; or an
agreement may, in some cases, be made for tlie
entire keep for about 12 dollars = 50s. a-month.
Grass, the usual food, ís furnished in almndance
duringthe winterseason at 75™- to 100"- = to
5ã. per bundle, sufEcient for one day,1 and is
brought to the stable every morning. Maize or
Indian corn is given in plaee of oats, -which ai*e
rarely to be obtained; the usual allowance, where
nioderate exercise or work is given, is one-quarter
of an alqueire per day, the alqueire usually c03ting
350rfi- = 1«. 5\d. Many persons prefer liaying the
1
Verj good liay is grown on the mountainB, but is not muc:h
nsed except duríng the summer, ívhen grass is scarec. It is
usually sold at 400™- = 10c/. per arrobo of 32 lbs.
116 MADEIRA.

com bruised, in whicli case a maquia, equal to one-

sixteenth part, is taken at the mill, buí the tralk is
considerably inereased.
In liiring a horae by the month, the charge
varies from 20 to 30 dollara {=4?, 3.t. 4d. to
6/. 5s.) according to the style of animal, and 1 £ to
2 dollars (= 6s. 3 d. to 8s. 4d.) to tlie burriqueiro
or groom.1 Wlien híred by the hour the charge is
300"- = ls. 3d. for the first, and 200rs* = 10í£
for each succeeding period, with a triflmg " pour
boire.at times, to the attendant. In journeys to
the north, or by the day, the usual cost Í3 from 1 £
to 2 dollars (= 6s. Sã. to 8s. 4d,), and 200or lOá.
to the burriqueiro; tiiesc men accompany tlieir
employers on ali oceasions, and are always near to
render any assistance that may be required. They
kcep up with their animais, frequently holding on
by the tail, even during a pretty severe gallop, or
a lengthened exeursion round the island, and are
usually exceedingly civil and obliging. They are
by no means, however, the most honest of their
kind, and as their food is in a great measure made
up of milho, ground and prepared, they are nowise
averse to supply themselves at tl\e espense of the
poor horse. The generality of the Madeira men-
servants take after the burriqueiros, in helping
themselves when an opportunity offers; and seldom
seruple to buy the various household supplies in
the eheapest market, and charge them at the
1
If taken to tlie norlk, an agreement to that effect is neccssaiy,
and an iucrcasc of charge is tnadc.
 MADEIRA. 117
higheat rate; and tlie purcliase of meat, fruit,
groceries, &c. being usually entrusted to the eooks,
tliere is plenty of scope afforded for peculation.
To avoid th is system of robbery ít is adviaable to
adopt the pass-book system in ali purcliases with
which tliey may be charged.
There being no roads in Madeira fit for wheeled
vehicles, those who are unable to ride on horseback,
and 1 adiea in visiting, usually employ the pafan-
guin, a kind of settee simpended from a long pole,
which, wlien carried, hanga about twelve inches
from the ground. It is partly covered with an
awning and cortai na, the seat is low, and the atti-
tude rather cramped. The se vehicles are carried
on tlie shoulders of two men, one preceding the
other, who are paid 150™* = l\d. cach per hour,
and 100"- = 5d. for whatever time the palanquin
may be employed on liire. Many of the furnished
houses, lio we ver, provide a conveyance of th is
description. On account of the greater weíght of
the palanquin, and the rugged nature of the eountry
roads, hammocks are nsnally made use of by invalida
for any lengtliened exeursion, or even about towri
by those who prefer tliis mode of locomotion, The
Madeira hammock is generally made of strongly
wove hempen threads, of various colours, with
a deep netted fringe; it is suspended from a long
pole, and carried as the palanquin, but tlie eleva-
tion from the ground ia considerably greater, and
tlie position niuch more agreeable. The cliarge is
the same, except in long cxcursioiís, wlien it is
118 MADEIRA.
advisable to procure bearera from St. Antonio, or
other parfs of tlie conntry, who are paid at the
raie of 600"- to 800™' (=2s. Qd. to 3s. Aã.) eacli
per day, according to tlie time they may be
employed.
Oflate years several families liave had machinea
built, somewliat similar to a Russian sledge. These
are draivn by a yoke of oxen, and carry from fouv
to six persons. Tliey are not adapted, however,
for tlie roada out of town; but for sliort vides,
tliough their progress ia Tather eloiv, tbey are
exceedingly comfortable and economical. The
eliarge for a pair of oxen, and a driver who walks
bebind) varies according to tlie distance3 but they
may be engaged for about a dollar per day. In tlie
course of a few seasons it ia probable these sledges
will become a common mode of public conveyance
among the English residents and visitors; at
present they are only to be had on hire from the
manufacturer Mestre Pheltppe, at 10, Rua Direita.
Besides the foregoing, chairs made of liglit wicker-
work, and suspende d nearly in the same way as
a seâan-chair, are sometimes made use of.
Boating is frequently resorted to by invalida,
and others, as an amusement, and is strongly
recommended by medicai men in chest eomplaints.
Alany pleasant exeursiona may be made aloug the
coast, and the boats are elean, comfortable, and
well managed. The charge with two men is 300"-
= 1í. 3d. per hour, or 1,200™- = 5s. per day,
with four rowers 500rs = 2s. 1 d. per hour, or 2
 MADEIRA. na
dollars = 8s. 4d. per day. If the distance ia
great, however, such as to the fóssil bed, or Machico,
an allowance of 400"- =1 s. 8d. is usually made.
The boatmen will provide fishing lines for those
whose inclinations lead that way, but the depth of
water renders this rather an arduous pastime for
most invalids. Lines of froni 30 to 60 fathoms
are usually employed, and the fatigue of drawing
up such a íength of cord, after probably a mere
nibble at the bait, is far from beíitg competi a ated
by tlie number or size of the fisli obtained, althongh,
from their great varie ty and bcauty of colour, this
pastime is likely to afford considerable amusement
to lovers of ichthyólogy. Tlie fish market is also
worthy of a visit early in the morning to ali those
interested in such a subject, and even others will
sometimes íind many singular and interesting
specimens of the finny tribe.
Many persons leave Engíand with the idea that
there are few of the necessaries, and none of the
luxuries, of life, to be obtained at Madeira, and
load themselves, unneeessarily, with ali sorts of
groceries, &c., and provide a supply of clothing as if
they were about to undertake a voyage round the
world. No opinion ean be more fallaeious, for
almost every article, whether as regards food or
clothing, can be obtained at Funchal, at prices Httle
exceeding, and in many cases less than they eost
in England. A list of many articles, with their
usual prices, will be found appended.1
1 See Appcndii O.
120 MADEIRA.

There are two English grocery and baking

establisliments, wliere ali sorts of groceries, piekles,
&c, are received direct from London, and plain or
faney bread can be had quite equal to tliat at
home, Tltese are:—
W. and A. lVilkinaon's, No. 2, Rua do Aljube, faeing the Cathe-
dral Square, and
J. Paync'8, No. 1, Bua do# Inglczes, near the cnstom-house,
with a store attaehed, for the sale of crockery, glass, kc.
There are also several Portuguese stores or
sliops, where many articles of a similar natnre can
be obtaiiied.
The English drapery stores, ívliere every descrip-
tion of clotlnng, &c. can bc obtained, are:—
The " Br i ti eh IVarehousc," No, 1, Travessa d'Alfandega; and
The " Glasgow and Manchester IVarehouGC," F. AVilkinson and
Co., 14, Travessa d'Alfandega.

There are also several Portuguese shops, among

vhich may be mentioned:—
Bastos and Co., No. 14, Rua dos Mercadores.
F. Luiz Ferreira, No TB, Rua dos Mercadores,
F. Gomes e Filho, No. 3, Rua de Bettancourt; and
Victurino F, Nogueira, No 20, Largo de SaB Scbastiaõ.
At the statlonery and perfumery store of F. Wil-
kinson and Co., Travessa d'Alfandega, a variety of
these and other articles are to be obtained. Messrs.
Wilkinson and Co. also reeeíve orders for books.
periodicals, &c., of which thcy obtain a supply by
the Brazil mail steamers, every month, and eliarge
 MADEIRA. 121
the regular publisher's price, includíng ali expenses,
There are also good hatters, taílors, boot and shoe
makers, and otlier artísans,
Ironmongery and hardware are to be had at
" Bastos and Co.'s " No. 3, Ena doa Mercadores,
and a few other plaees,
At Gr. Boldering's Birmingham and Sheffiekl
Warehouse, nearly opposite the British Cônsul ate,
saddlery, plated goods, optical iustruments, and a
variety of articles too numerou» to mention, are to
be obtained; piano-fortes are also to be had 011
hire at thís establishment, the usual eliarge being
from 48 to 50 dollars (10/. to 10/. 8s. 4d.) for the
season, or by the year for 10 to 20 dollars extra.
They may likewise be Mred at Messrs. Payne's or
WÍlkinson's, and of Mr. De Freitas, 57, Rua da
Carreira.
Most of the sliops in Funchal are to be found in
the streets adjoining tiie Custom-house ; their out-
waxd appcarance is by no means prepossessing,
being generally in eonfined situations, and without
any show, or even a wíndow to set off theír
goods.
Sm ali huckster and wine stores are thickly
«cattered over the town, and along the countiy-
roads. The latter are generally known by a small
board httng ítom the doorway, and bearing tlie
letters P.V.B., for Pàò e Vinho Bom, or good bread
and wine.
Those who are fond of literature, or light read-
ing, will find suffieient to interest and amuse tlient
G
122 MADEIRA.

in the various libraries and reading-rooms of

Funchal.
At the "English Club," near the Cathedral, there
is a select library of nearly two thoosand volumes,
with a billiard-table attached. At these rooms
the Times, Morníng Okroniele, Illustrated Lonãm
News, Athenwum, índia Mail, Punch, and several
Otlier English, French, and Portuguese newspapers
and periódica! a, are regularly received. The ad-
mittance is by ballot, the visitor being first intro-
duced by a proprietor. The subscription is 3
dollars (= 12fi. Gd.) per montli, 8 dollars (= \l.
13s. 4(7.) per quarter, 15 dollars (= 3/. 2js. 6d.) per
half ycar, or 24 dollars (=■ 5/.) per annum.
At the " Portuguese Club," No. 2, llua de
Pei-ti, the principal Portuguese, French, and a few
English newspapers, are taken in. There is no
library, but a good billiard-table: tea is iumished
every evening, and a bali once a month during the
season; the subscription is 3.600rs. (= 15».) per
month, for visitors, who are admitted by ballot, as
in the English rooms.
The " Coinmercíal Rooms," near the Caes, or
pier, receive the Tiines, Mercantile Adveríiser,
Shipping Gazette, Illustrated London News, Punch,
Journal de VEurope, besides a variety of Portu-
guese and American newspapers. The arrival and
departurc of vessels and passengers are regularly
noted at these rooms, in books kept for tliat pur-
pose ; there is likewise a pleasant veranda attached,
affording an agreeable lounge, and a fine view of
 MADEIRA. 123
the bay. Tlie subseription Í3 only 2 dollars
(= 8s. 4d.) for the season of six months.
1 hcre is also a Iibrary attachcd to the Camara,
or Mumeipality, containing upwarda of 1,800
volumes, among wliich there are several English
and Frendi publications, and many old and valu-
able works and MSS. from the suppressed monas-
tery of Saõ Francisco. This iibrary is open to
the public grátis, from 9 till 3. Tlie secretary,
Senhor Antonio Pio Fernandes, is most obliging,
and vrill allow books to be rcmoved for a few days
by any respectable applicant. This Iibrary does
not appear to be much known, even among the
Portuguese, The annual outlay for books is so
trifiing, and the little use made of those it contains
so manifest, that nothing else is wanting to show
the great apathy of the majority of the natives
with regard to literary pursuits.
There are also líbraries in connexion with the
Episcopal and Presbyterian Churches, the annual
subseription to cacli being only one dollar,
or 4». 2d.
Chureh service ts performed regularly by the
British Chaplain, the Kev. T. K. Brown, at the
elegant and beautifully situated English Chapei,
No. 10, Pua da Bella-vísta. The Iibrary attached
to this chapei was established by the present chap-
lain, on his amval in 1848, and already consista of
upwards of 550 volumes. During the ministration
of the former chaplain, the Rev. li. T. Lowe, it
was considerably more extensive, but on his re-
G 2
124 MADEIRA.

moral by Her Majestys Government, at the

urgent solicitation of the majority o£ the congre-
gation, the library, subscribed for by them, as if
his privatc property, was removed; many truly
evangelic&l works ]iaving previously been thrown
aside for the Oxford Tracts, or similar publications.
The Communion plate was likewise removed, on
the plea that it had been purehased by Ais com-
municants, and therefore belonged to htm, or to
his Church. The great majority of the residente,
however, were so pleased to ohtaín the removal of
their ill-suited pastor, anA were so unwillíng to
bring their differences "before the Portuguese courts
of laiv, that they took no steps to recover the
property belongíng to their Chuich.1
There is alao a cliapel at No. 1, Travessa do
Surdo, conducted by the Rev. James 1), Burns,
where serviee is regularly performed in connexion
with the Free Chiirch of Scotland. The library
attached to this chapei contains upwards of a thou-
satid volumes.1
The seats in the English ehureli are charged
six dollars (=1Z. 5*.) eaeh, per anmim, or one
do]lar (=4s. 2d.) per month; but in the case of a
family oecupying several sittings, theae charges are
somewhat reduced,
At the Scotch church the seats are 5 dollars
1
See Appendix B.
!
The stipend of tlie elergyman of the Presbyterisn church is
paid partly by the congreçitt.on, and partly frorn Lhe Free
Church Suítentation Flind.
 MADE1KA. 125
(=lí. Os. 10d.) for the season or year, and 1 dollar
(=4s. 2d.) for servant3.
The Rev. R. T. Lowe, since his removal from
the chaplaincy, lias establíshed a chureh oi' his
own at No. 14, Rua das Aranhas, with a view of
carrying out his so-called Tractarian principies.
The library attached contains about 200 volumes.1
The want of gaiety and amusements in Fun-
chal is sometimes complained of by invalids ; the
usual routiue of life, they say, is too mouotonous
to render it an eligible resort; little imagining
that the very evils they complain of so ma-
teiially assist in their restoration to health. With
regard to theatres, and such plaees of niglit resort,
Madeira is eertainly far behind the ltahan and
Continental States, neither can it boast of museums
oi picture-galleries. A few balis during the winter
season, with a chance concert or two, constitute tlie
fashionable amusements of the place; but even
these are better avoided by ali iuvalids. -vyhose
restoration to health ouglit to be their chief aim
during their sojourn here, having probably made
many sacrificcs, and left the comfort of friends and
home for that eiid.
One of the sources of amusement most frequent
among the visitors are the Pic-nic parties during
fine weather, either by sea or land; but even in
these little discretion is shoivn, and a Pic-nic is
usually thought nothing of unless a ride of five or
1
The Rev. R, T. Lowe ie paid by volimtary contribution, and
the ecats in bis chapei are nominally grátis.
126 MADEIRA.

six hours be obtained, or some of the loftiest hills

aseended! and for invalids gencrally, notliing can
te more injurious than these long, and probably
galloping excursions, or the chilling blasts en-
countered at times, on these exposed heiglits. A
(juiet ride to a moderate distance, and as near the
sea as possible, is better, and quite as interestíng
as a lmrried visit to greater elevations.
In January or Febrnary ít is usual for one or
other of the regular trading packets to make a
voyage with passengers to Tcneriffe and Grand
Canary, where they remain a suffieient time to
atfford an opportunity of visiting ali tlie interesting
localities of these islands—gencrally a week or
ten days at each—and return direet to fiadeira,
thus affording an agreeable eliange from the mono-
tonous life in Funchal. The usual charge for these
pleasure excursions is ten guiueas each, The
aecommodation obtained at these localities is, how-
ever, of a very interior description, and many per-
30ns prefer living on board the vessel during their
sojourn, in •whieh case one dollar (= 4s. 2d.) per
day is eharged.
Many unfit and sad cases are annually sent out
to Madeira, probably to end their days, aivay from
ali the endearing comforts of friends, without an
idea of their complaint, or auy rales to regulate
their conduct—vrithout any instructions from their
medicai advisers at home for their guidance during
the voyage, or on their arrival. They appear as if
sent merely for a change of climate, as though that
 MADEIIIA. 127

change were to renew their sliattered conatitutions,

and render further care unnecesaary. Such igno-
rance or carelessness is to be deplored; and the
invalid resorting to Madeira, or any Southern
climate, ahould conaider that lie is merely placing
himself in a more favourablc position for I1Í3 reco-
very, and strictly observe ali tbose rules which
have been laid down for hia guidance at home.
He should bc furnislied by hia medicai a tf vi ser
with specific instructions for thc precaution3 neces-
sary during the voyage, and earnestly counselled
to place himself on arrival under the guidance of
some experienced pliysician, so as to be in a posi-
tion which may enable him to derive the greatest
advantage from the influence of climate. The
resident English medicai practitioners, arranged in
alpliabetical order, are—
Dr. Brougiiton, Santa Luzia.
Dr. Lund, Santa Clara.
Dr, Miller, Toitííiò.
Dr, Itoss, Kua das Hortas.
Dr. Tibbettfs, Rua da Honrar!».
The usual fee ia one guinéu for the first visit, and
Iialf-a-guinea for each succeeding visit. Where
the visita or examiuations, however, are periódica!,
■or at lengthened intervala, a physician'a fee is
usually paid. Some years ago it was necessary to
laud at Madeira wçll provided with medicines,
«xcept those of thc commonest kinds. Tliat neces-
sity haa long ceaaed to exist, and visitors will find
medicines as well dispensed as at any of the first-
128 MADEIRA.

rate London cliemists, and tlie eharges exceedingly

moderate. The principal cliemists' shops are—
The Botica dm dois Amigos, Senhor—Machado, No. 4, Rua
da Igrejinha, aotl
Senhor Gerardo José de Nobriga, Rua da Prineeza.
Invalida returning direct to England general ly
leave the Island towards the end of May or the
beginning of June. At that period there are fre-
quent opportnnities offering, as the regular packets
study their oivn interest as well as the eonvem-
ence of passengers with regard to their time of
sailiug, and these vessels are deeidedly the most
CQmfortable conveyances eitlier ont or home. They
proceed direct to Southampton or Portsmouth at
the option of the passengers, and charge the same
farc as on their outward voyage, hut the passage is
usually two or three days longer on account of the
northerly winds and calma which pievail at this
season.
At an earlier period one or two of these packets
usually make a voyage to Cadiz, for the conveni-
enee of tliose who -wish to visít Spain, or to pro-
ceed througli France. The passage money for the
voyage is 10/., servants and children one-half.
There are other opportunities offering from time,to
time by vessels proeeeding to the Medíterranean,
and landing passengers at Gibraltar.
The Galgo, Madeira andLisbon packet, sails nearly
cvcry month direct for Lisbon; the passage-money
by this vessel is 25 dollars (= 51. 4s. 2d.) Strangers
in visiting the Portuguese capital are frequently
 MADEIRA. 120
subjected to considerable annoyance and trouble at
tlie custom-house, as well as from the passport
regulations, Should they desire to proceed on-
wards by an early conveyance, they ouglit to
obtain the assistanoe of some party aequainted
with the routine of these matters. An applieation
to the agents of the vessel will probably tend to
facilitaie their arrangements in this respect.
The Brazil line of steamers call at Madeira
also ou their return voyagc to England, and are
d lie at Funchal on the 3d of eaeh month. The
honieward cliarges are the same as those whieh
have already becn given in a former part of the
present work.1
On leaving the Island it is neeessary to obtain
a passport, whether proceeding direct to England
or by any other route. This docnment—a guaran-
tee that there is no claim exísting against the
party—is usually obtained through the Cônsul,
the charge being 3.240", ( = 13s. 6â.), and mu st
be shown to the iiealth-offieer on his coming on
board to clear the vessel. If they are proceeding
to Spain the visé of the Spanish Cônsul is requíred,
and the same for any other foreign country, for
which a chargc of one dollar (4s. 2d.) is exacted.
A gratuity of 50"' ( = 2\d.) per package is
usually paid to the officer stationed on the beach
on embarking the luggage, and prevents the trouble
aud annoyance of obtaiuing a permit for that pur-
pose, or risking their exercise of the right of seareh.
1
See page 104.
o 3
 CHAPTEK XII.

MEDICAL WBECTIOiTS FOB rNVÀLIDS DtRlKG THE YOYAOE.

Impressed with the idea that some instructions

or advice, in a medicai point of view, tor the
gui dance of invalida resorting to líadeira, might
be found useful, the Autlior, on making applica-
tion to I)r. Lund—a physician who liad resided,
and practised, on tlie island for several yeara—for
some information on these points, lias been kindly
fornished, by liím, with the following notes, which
appear so correct and useful in every part, that the
"w ri tor has obtained 1 )t*. Lund a sanction toi their
puhlication entire.
" Invalida resorting to tlie Island of Madeira
for the rccovery of their healtli are chiefly thoae
suffering from pulmonary disease3, of wliom there
are two classes; the first, wheie the complaint is
in its early stage, during which period the climate
generally acts beneficially in arresting its further
progress, and there is no doubt that more would
experienee relief but for their own imprudent con-
duct; the second claes is composed of those in the
last stage, where no reasonable hope of recovery
can be givenstill, even Itere, its downward pro-
 MADEIRA. 131
gress is often mueh retardei!, and life'3 frail tenure
prolonged; ali íhe symptoms beoome milder tlian
at home, and tlie remaining term of existence is
passed with com parati ve comfort. Tliere are
persons who have now been living many years on
the island, whose cases, on leaving home, ivere
pronouiiccd hopeless; some, I know, have long had
large portions of tlie lungs destroyed; these are the
fortunate exceptíons to the almost universal fatality
of confirmed consumption, and shew that, even
itnder tlie most adverse circumstances, hope is not
to be entirely given up. These persons ride and
boat, enjoy the society of their friends, mak.e
voyages home in summer, and live, with prudence,
a com para tively happy life.
" It is to be regretted that invalids who might
derive benefit from the climate of Madeira in an
early stage of their disease, too often íose in-
valuable time by frittering it away at some of the
English resorts, not one of which is really suitable
to their case. They dread the voyage; and the
advice to take cod-liver oil and remam in England,
which it has lately been the fashion with some
medica] praetitioners to give, is no doubt a great
inducement to delay their departure. That such
advice is not the best ia evident from tlie fact that
tlie opportuníty of constantly respiring pure air,
and taking regular exereise, cannot be enjoyed,
dtiring tlie winter and spring, by invalids in
England—where they must necessarily live shut
up in rooras, and only enjoy the open air for a
132 MADEIRA.

few bours during that rare oceurrenee, fine weather,

and even then are obliged to wear a respirator,
or be elosely muffled up. With these disad-
vantages the uae of eod-liver oil must prove less
beneficiai tlian it would do under more favouiable
circunistances. It is freely used in Madeira,
though in moderate doses, and undoubtcdly im-
proves tbe funetions of assimilatíon and convérsion,
enabling tlie blood to deposit healtliy Iymph,
ínstead of albumen whieh constítutes tubercle; but
for the r em oval of the imhealtliy stracture aheady
deposited, one of the chief means ia exercise and
the free ínhalation of purc air. Again, where one
portion of any organ is prevented by disease from
doing its duty, it become3 doubly impcratíve that
the remaining portion of healthy strueture, whieh
lias double work to perform, should be placed
under as tavourable circumstances as possible for
the more eííicient diseliarge of its inereased fune-
tions ; henee the necessity of a constant supply of
pure air, when only a limited part of the lung is
acthig, and the importance of selecting Iarge and
well ventilated sleeping apartments. These cir-
cumstances show that if a ehange is to be made, it
should be to some decidedly good climate possess-
ing advantages sufficient to repay the invalid for
the sacrifice he undergoes in leaving the eomforts
of home. In my own case, I acted, many years
ago, aceordhig to this advíce and with the most
beneficiai results. The late Dr. Andrew Combe, in
writing to a friend, says, " If I must go abroad, I
 MADEIRA. 133
shall most likely retum to Madeira, on the simple
grouud that, if I muat forego the pleasures of home,
it is better to resort at once to the most advan-
tageous climate tlian to adopt the halt* measures of
going to Italy, Jcrsey, or the south of England."1
" For a trustworthy account of the climate of
Madeira, as reported by two physicians long
resident on the is Ian cl, Sir J, Clark's book on
climate can bc referred to, and after a residence of
nine years T can confirm the very great aceuraey
of the ir remarks. Havitig also ^íade inquiries,
for some years past, from invalíds who have
wintered at different favouritc loealitiee, sucli as
Pau, Pisa, Nice, Rome, Malta, Malaga &c., how
the climate of Madeira rankcd in comparison wíth
those they had tried, the answers haye xuiiversally
been in fayour of Madeira, That of Egypt is the
only one approximating to it; but in that country
many drawbacks exist.
" Some complain of the dulness of Madeira, and
the want of gaiety, or places of public amusement,
but, medically considered, these are far froni
advantageous; indeed the late Dr, Renton remarked
that, if the winter in Madeira proved a little woree
than usual, his patients generally progressed more
favourably, for the simple reason that they tlien
acted with greater prudence.
" In addítíon to those suffering from chest com-
plaints, there are other classes of invalids who
1
Life and Correspondente of Andrew Combe, M.D. Long-
man k Co, Londoo, 1850.
134 MADEIRA.

are mucli benefited by a sojonrn in Madeira; such

as those labouring under morbid conditions of the
blood, and the discases arisirig from this state,
rheumatism, scrofula, kidney affectiona, and various
chronic diseases, imperfect recoveries after fevers,
and those who cannot resist çold, and consequently
suffer from internai congestiona and imperfect
action of the skin, Persons suffering from aflec-
tions of the brain and nervous system, or a ten-
deney to apoplexy, asthma, chronic diarrhoea, and
dysentery, should not be sent to Madeira."
Notwithstanding every information has already
been afforded in the body of this ivork, as regards
the different modes of reaching tlie island, " I
am," Dr. Lund writes, " so fully convinced of the
great superiority of the regular Madeira sailing
packets, in affording the greatest comfort, and
attention to invalids, that I cannot forbear recoin-
mending thcm to avail tliemselves of these con-
veyances; and this advice I give from my own
experience of tlie ineonvenience and lack of comfort
on board the old line of steamers, as well as
sailing vessels, merely touching at the island. The
regular packets are ali firat-class vessels, fitted up
chiefly for the aceommodation of delicate persons,"
are amply provided with ali invalid requirements,1
and have a sufficient number of stewards to ensure
good attendance. The residents, in their journeys
1
These pacfccts cariy a regular medicine ehest, so that, unlees
a particular remedy be reqtiíred, the invalid need not encumber
himself with drugs.
 MADEIRA, 135

to and from England, almost invariably give the

preference to theae veasets. The new line of
steamera, touching here on tlieir way to the
Brazils, may be more comfortable than any hither-
to on the station, but this has yet to be proved.
They certainly perform the voyage with greater
speed and regularity than saíling vessels, but a
quick paaaage from England to Madeira, especially
in September or early in October. is poaitívely
detrimental to a delicate person. The tranaitíon
from cold to lieat is vcry trying, and apt of itself
to occasion illness; a passage of from 12 to 14
days is decidedly prcferable; the cbange ia then
gradual, and the constitution becomea accustomed
to the greater warmth which pvevaila in Funcbal
till after the first autumnal rains.
" A mild aperíent takcn previous to embarking
will be of advantage in mitigating the excessive
nausea of sea-aiekncss; and a good form ia three
grain8 of blue pill and five of compound aloetic
pill, made ínto two pills, and taken at bed-time.
When sea-siekness comea on the best plan is to
lie down, and let the atomaeh be completely eva-
cuatedj drinking occaaionally small qnantitiea of
ftuid. llurray'a fluid magnesia not only correcta
acidity but renders the vomiting casier: after the
violence of the vomiting has subsided, small quan-
tities of atimulating food and drink can be taken;
fresk air on deck ia alao neceaaary. Preventivas
for sea-sickness, such as ereoaote, &c., allay the
vomiting for a time, but leave intolerable nausea.
136 MADEIRA.

" Jlueh after misehief would be avoided if inva-

lida ivould live moderately during the voyage, and
prevent constipation by occasionally taking a mild
aperient, as the compound rliubarb pill; if stronger
medicine be required, an aloetic or colocynth pill
may be taken, but in ali chest diseases, and more
especially in tlie advanced stage, purgative medi-
cines must be nscd with the greatest eaution.
" In cases of hsemoptysis, or spitting of blood,
wherc there is no medicai assistance to be obtained,
the following general directions may prove ot'service,
If the attack is slight, living very abstém iously,
keeping quiet, and observing perfect silence, with
a saline purgative, may be sufficicnt; should the
attack be more violent, it will be advisable to dis-
solve one table-spoonfid of salt in a small quantity
of eold water, and drink it off directly; tliis dose
can be repeated in half-an-hour if necessary. Should
the bleeding stíll continue after the use of the salt,
and after free purgation with Epsom salts, astrín-
gents must be used, as the infusion of Ma tico,
made by pouring one pint of boiling water over
one ounce of the leaves, and straining it when eold;
a wine-glassful of tliis can be taken every three
hours. Lead is also a valuable astringent, but
eannot be used in unprofessional hands with safety.
Ten to fifteen di'ops of dilnted sulphuric acid in lialf
a wine-glass of water, taken two or three times
during the day, is also useful.
" Upon landing in Madeira, the invalid must
carefully avoid ali causes of excitement in moving
 MADEIRA. 137
to his place of residence. For the first few days it
ís requisite to live very pradently, avoid too much
iudulgence in fruit, and drink very little, if any,
beer or wine; indeed, strict modoration must be
the rule not only now but during his whole so-
journ. Carefully avoiding any exercise, which
materialíy quiekens the pulse and breathing, will
save future attacks of illness; andwalking, exposed
to the mid-day sun, or up the hills, is especially to
be avoided, During damp or wet weatlier, and
partieularly after sun-set, the invalid should keep
within doors. The general rules for restoratíon to
health are comprised under the lieads of air, exer-
cise, regalated diet, attention to the skin, and
keep mg up any deficient function; the special
application of these must be varied to suit each
individual case, but ali will be benefited by strict
temperance, regular and early hours, and avoiding
ali excitement.
" A work, entitled Physiology applieã to Health
and Eáitcatúm, by Dr. A. Combe, is an excellent
guide in matters relating to health; it should be
read, and its directions followed, by ali invalids,
who will then understand the reason9 of many
directions which are given by their medicai man,
aud will tbus follow out bis mstruetions not only
wíth proíit to themselves, but will find their per-
foimance much lesa irksomc than when doue in
ignorance."
 CHAPTER XIII.

TO U R DP THE iauíí, &C.

The singularly broken and rngged naturc of the

aurface of Madeira, and the consequent diffieulty of
constructing good roads, tends greatly to 'impede
the intercourse between tlie inhabitants of the dif-
ferent paits of the Island; and in many secluded
situatious, especially along tlie weatern coast, the
appearance of a stranger causes as mucli wonder
and speculation as might he expected to result
froni the arrival of a caravan of wild animais.
Many of the uatives never leave the ravine or dis-
tríct in which they were bom, and the first visit to
Funchal is so bewildering to those whose good
fortune enables tliem to undertake such a journey,
that it fornis an epocli in their livea never to be
forgotten! Little or no attention has been paid to
the construetion of the mountain paths, or to lessen
theír fatiguing ascent. Tlie most direct route has
been usually marked out, and an inclination of from
18" to 25° is by no means uncommon. Even the
Caminho do Meio, a road of modern construetion,
and earefully paved, leading from Funchal to the
north, has a continued inclination of about 23°, and
* ia usually and appropriately, ou account of ita
steepneaa, callcd the Caminho do foguete., or rocket-
 MADEIRA, 139
road. Since tlie arrival of the present Governor,
however, in 1846, many decided ímprovcments
have been effceted in the engineering department
of the publie raads, and the new route to Gama
de Lobos lias been opened through hís activity.
A handsome bridge over the Ribeira Secco, and
several smaller ones, are incladed in th is work-, to
which her Majesty, the late Queen Dowager, con-
tributed largely during hex sojourn here in 1848,
as wcll as the Portuguese and British rnerchants
and visitors: the soft nature of the soil, however,
rendera it often impassable during the winter
months. To owrcome this, and remove the exten-
sive beds of rock which interrúpt the path in many
places, a eonsiderable amount of money and labour
is still required, and the subseriptions towards
its completion being now liniited, many years
must elapse before it ean be properly íiiiished
throughout.1
After leaving the amphitheatre of Funchal, bnt
more particularly in the nortli and western parta of
the island, the roads are very indifferent, resembling
often the bed of a torrent, which many really are

i It ap peara somewhat astonishing that any writer on Madeira

ehould, cven ivith regará to these simple matters, mako euch
gross misrcpresentations as appear in a somewhat extensive work
by J, f)river, published only last year, in which he thus descri bes
thia road: " A new earriage road, the only one ou the island,
leading from Funchal to thia viUage, (Cama de Lobos,) and
nearly levei, hasjust been completed. This road passes through
a moat lorely and highly-caltivatcd district, ncar the coast, and
affoTds such a drire for the invalid as cannot be rivalled in any
140 MADEIRA.

during tlie winter senson. They are generally uii-

paved, or paved with large stones roughly laíd
down, and rendering the passage on horsebaek
T>otIi ditíicult and dangerous.
The most frequented and admired rides in the
neighbourhood of the town are those of Sant'
Antonio, Sant' Amaro, the Estreito, and Cama de
Lobos, on the west; the Palheiro and Santa Cruz
roads, on the east; SaÕ Roque, the Mount, and Curral
dos Romeiros, or Little Curral, ou the hills towards
the nortli. The first of these is probably the least
interesting, being enelosed between walla which
completely sliut out the view till an elevation of
about a thouaand feet is obtaíned.
Palheiro.—The Palheiro,1 belonging to the heirs
of tlie late Conde de Carvalhal, is situated to the
east of Funchal, at an elevation of 1,800 feet above
the sea. Tlie ascent oecupies about an hour,1 but
the road is good. The grounds are somewhat in
the style of an English park; the garden, however,
is small, but contains many curíous plants, among
whích are several kinds of Cacti, and some enor-
part of the worid. The road is maçada tu ized, is of great wídth,
and has a parapet on each side." He adds, " A drive of seven
miles out, and eharaetemed by the most ímposing seenery, may
now be enjoyed ! J" These remarks muat surely have been wrlfr-
ten for the benefit of nome future generation, bo diametrically
opposed as they are to the fasta obacrved by evcry visitor,—See
Driver'9 Work on Madeira, pp. 319 and 385, published ly
J. Churchill, London, IS50.
1
Palheiro do Ferreiro, Blacksmith's Hnt.
1
A Table, sKowing the time occupied in varioua exeursiona
about the ielami, will be found in Appendii P,
 MADEIRA. 141
mous trees of the Camellia Japoniea, bearíng flowers
of great beauty and variety of colour. The house
is small, and almost hid from víew by tiie lofty
troes which aurround it. Tlie former owner of
these grounds was one of tlie wealtliiest snbjects
of Portugal, possessing large estates in different
parte of the island, and giving oceupation to an
immense number of dependente. The estates are
now managed by Mr. G. D. Welah, from whom an
order for admission into tlie Palheiro grounds is
necessary.
Litth Curral.—From a turning to the west of
the Palheiro gate, a road branchcs off along the
side of the lrills, towards the Caminho do Meio,
from which some beautiful glimpses of seenery ean
be obtained. On emerging into the paved road,
the rider ean deseend to Funchal, passing the
boarding establishment of Mr. Hollivay. Or lie
may avoid the annoying steepness of this road by
foliowing the first turning leading to the right, and
passing through the magnifieent seenery of the
" Little Curral," towards the Mount Church, where
tlie grounds of the late J. D. Webster Gordon, Esq.
are also well worthy of a visit. From this point
the descent to town is more gradual.
New Eoad,—The new road is carried as far as
tlie Ribeiro dos Socorridos, along the sea-cliffs,
and in dry weather affords a very pleasant ride,
interspersed with several picturesque views, in-
eluding the bold lieadland of Cape Giram, pro-
bably the highest sea-cltff in the world. Along
142 MADEIRA.

this road, between the villa of the Gurgulho, for-

merly the Lazaretto, and Prai/a-formosa, (a lovely
littlc bay to the westward,) and at a distance of
about fifty yards from tlie verge of the cliff, tliere
is a curious ellip tical funnél-shaped depvesaion, re-
eembling tlie opening of a cratcr, about 100 feet
in diametcr, and 40 feet deep, with an opening in
tlie centre, tliiough which the sea ia heard lasliing
against the rocks below, although no visible
aperture for its entrance can be found.
Saõ Roque.—The road to Sao lloque passes
the eonvent of Santa Clara, and near* the Peak-
fort; turning afterwarda to the riglit, beyond the
Achada, and ascendi ng the hill, an acute angle ín
the road leads paat the cemetery and church of
Sao lloque, whence, deseending to the yalley
below, and crossing the river, it joins that of
Sant1 Antonio, near tlie church.
WaterfaU.—In proceeding to the Waterfall, one
of the wondera of Madeira, a path descenda the
side of the ravínc, to the eaat of, and a sliort dis-
tance below tíie church of San Roque. On reach-
ing tlie bottom the road ia no longer practicable
for horses, and the rest of the journey along the
bed of the torrent, must be made on foot, or in a
hammock, over large boulders and maases of rock,
which have fallen from the abrupt clítfs on each
side, or been washed down by the force of the
winter torrenta, The joiu'ney ia exceedingly
fatiguing, and tbe view is closed in on ali sides by
the lofty cliífs, which tower above the bed of the
 MADEIRA, 143
ravine. After a scramble of upwards of two hours
the waterfall is reaehed. The effeet, as it opens
suddenly to viow, is grand, especial ly if the watera
have been^ jncreased by late rains. The stream,
however, is generally amall, and exhibita the
prismatic colours of the rainbow, as it descenda in
spray from the openmg gorge, nearly 300 feet
above, with a break after the first lumdrcd feet,
and an uninterrupted fali of about 200 feet. As
a caacade, however, this objeet is seareely worthy
of the fatigue incurred in visiting it, althougji
ranking high in Madeira, where the great and
serioua want of inland water detraets much from
the ríeh and wild character of the whole island
scenery. Besides these short exeursions, tliere are
raany trther detours in the vicinity of Funchal,
which can more easily bc aseertained on the spot.
The íew eonvenienees to be found out of Fun-
chal, for the accommodation or comfort of visitors,
render a tour of the island, or even a journey to
the north, a matter of grave importanee. When
several persona join in an excuraion to any distant
part, it ia advisable to hire mnles, in place of meu,
for the conveyancc of baggage, &c.'; and it is
1
The usual eharge for a raule is one dollar, and two bits to
the attendant, per day, equal to 5«. The writer has found Louis
Goncalves a most obliging and intelligent guide and muleteer*
At the gruem' establishment® of Messrs. Wilkinaon, or Payne,
the tourist will be assisted in proenring hís services, The usual
eliarge at the hotéis in the country is two dollars per day, or one
dollar when the parly furnish theír own eatables, &e. These
eatablishments are to bc found at Santa Cruz, Sant' Anna, Saõ
Vicente, and Calheta.
144 MADEIRA.

always necessary to secure apartmenta, or to advisc

the landlord of tlie hotel, where such establish-
ment» exist, a day or two before setting off: it
should alao be borne in miud that a stock of pro-
vjsions is ;in indispensable adjimct to ali partics
travei ling iu Madeira. The most suitable season
for these lengthened excursions, where the to uris t
leaves tlie island during the summer, is April or
May; but in th ia respect lie must be guided by
circumstauees.
Santo Antonio da Serra.—Leaving Funchal by
the east, and passing tlie Palheiro, the road con-
tinues ascendíng and descending along the side of
the hills, over a ragged and uninteresting country,
to the village of Camacha, around which several
of the English residents liave established tlieir
beautiful summer residenees: ali of these are
wortliy of a visit. Passing the church, the road
and scenery continue much the same, tíll the plain
of S. Antonio da Serra is arrived at; liere the
country is quite uncultivated, but affords a meagre
pastuTage for cattle. The adjoining hills are
covered with broom, heath, and bilherry, growing
in great luxuriauee. The wild and bleak appear-
anee is in some measure relieved by the quintas
and cottages of the merehants of Funchal, many
of whom, as at Camacha, adjourn to this colder
region during the summer months. In the district
itself there is little to attract notice. The roads
are good, and the visitor can find shelteT in au
iinfumisbed building, adjoining the church, which
was erected many years ago as a pilgrim's house,
 MADE1 RA. 145
by subacription among the residente. The keys
aio in the possession of the viçar, and are given
up to any rcspectable appíicant. The road con-
tinues on to Santa Cruz, with a brandi leading off
towards the village of Machico, a short way
beyond the church, artd afforda some magnificent
views of the rieh valley below. Passing this
opening, and ascending a hdl 011 the right, tlirougli
a perfect forest of brushwood, inimediately before
the descent to Santa Cruz commences, the visitor,
if curious in such matters, will find on the summit
a singular funnel-sliapcd depression, called the
lagoa, ov lake, about 120 feet deep, and fully 200
ieet in diametcr, but with ou t watcr, and hayiog the
appearance of an extínct crater. The sides are
thickly clothed with brushwood, and the plain at
the bottom is composed of alluvial soíl, covered
with grass. rl here are neitlier lavas, pumice, nor
any remains of volcanic aetion, to be found in the
neighbourhood; but it is said that the base was
formerly covered with these, which, however, have
been buried under the soii washed down during
the unprecedented rains which occurrcd in Oetobcr.
1803. From the brow of the hill lying to the
eastward of tliis cone, a spleadid view of the valley
of Machico is obtaincd. The roads to Santa Cruz
and Machico are pretty good, but the descent is
rapid. Before rcaching the church of S. Antonio
da Serra, a road branches off to the left, by the
side of a raill, leading to the Lamaceiros, and from
thence to Porto Cruz, 011 the north coast.
H
146 MA DEIÍÍA.

Santa Cruz.—Taking an easterly ílirection froin

Funchal, by the road wliicli passes along the sea-
cliíts, anti crossing tlie ravine of Saõ Gonsalves, at
the outlet of which the Sazarctto is now esta-
blished, an irregular and steep path leads towards
the Garay do, or Brazen-head, wliicli forms the
eastern promontory of the Bay of Funchal. On
reaching this headland the road bccomes more
levei, and, paasing the village of Caniço, continues
pretty good as far as the ravine of Porto-novo, but
firom this point to Santa Cruz it is rougli and
rugged, and the surrounding eountry bare and un-
intercsting. The village of Santa Cruz is beauti-
fully situated in a small open bay, with abrupt
liills rising behind. Lite most of the village
ports, it lias no appearance of trade or activity,
and, except in its pleasing site, it is comparatively
destitute of attraction. The cliurch was ereeted,
according to Dr, Vasconcellos* MS., in 1515, by
order of Dom Emanuel, and througli the activity
of Joaõ de Freitas, a fidalgo of his household. A
fine grove of til and laurel-trees rises in front of
the sacred edifice; and tlie adjoining town-hall bears
the date of 1513. In the grounds of Wm, Grant,
Esq. a sliort way to the north of tlie church, there
is a magniticent date-tvee, the largest fruit-bcaring
paira on the island, which, when loaded with its
enorinous bunclies of dates, often weigliing forty
pounds each, is an object of singular curiósity.
The hotel of Santa Cruz is situated 011 an emmence,
a little to the east of the village, and affords ali
 MADEIRA. 147
the comforts that can be expected in sueh a
locality. The landlord, Snr. Joaõ Fr. Gon salves,
speaks English, and is exceedingly attentive to
vi si tora.
Machico.—Continuing the road from Santa Cruz
along the coast, the ancient Franciscan monastery
is passcd on the ieft, partly bnilt by Urbano Lome-
íino in 1515, but now deserted and almost in
ruins. Near this monastery a pathway lcads up
the hills to S. Antonio da Serra. Tbe road from
Santa Cruz to Machico is comparatively good, but
the surrounding country is barrcn and uninterest-
ing. The huge basaltic rocks along the coast
present a rougli and irregular outline, covered witli
reddisli-coloured tufa, resembling bunit eartli, from
which the point forming the western boundary of
tlie narro w bay of Machico, takes the name of
Ponte Queimada, or Burnt-point. From this ele-
vation tlie view of the valley of Machico and the
village immediately beloiv is cxceedingly pictu-
rcsque. The descent, about 300 feet, is ver)- abrupt;
the road winds along tbc face of an almost perpen-
dicular cliff, and is paved with large stones wliose
slippery surface adds cousiderably to tbe seeming
(hmger of the path. The position of Machico is
the most romantic along the coast. The richly
cultivated valley recedes from the beautiful little
bay for nearly four miles, and is enclosed on eaeh
si de by lofty and abrupt hills, gradually ris mg
from tlie bold headlands, till they dose behind at
an elevation of upwards of 2,000 feet. This
h 2
148 MADEIItA.

village has even fewer attractions than Santa

Cruz. The inhabitants have a most melancholy
and miserable appearance of poverty, and the
visitor is atuTOunded and regula rly bcsieged with
bands of dirty urchinB seeking charity. The little
ehapcl, ereetcd on the site of that said to have
been built by the companions of Machin, contam*
a small cross of cedar-wood, which is shown to
visitors as part of tliat which he raised over the
remai na of his imfortunate bride, but with very
queetionable authenticity. Boats may be obtained
at Machico to convey parties to Poínt Saõ Lou-
renço, or
Caniçal—The best landing-place for those visit*
iiig tliia so-ealled fossil-bed, is on the rocks beyond
the chapei of N. S. da Piedade, our Lady of
Mercy, situatcd on the summit of a hill about
350 fcct abovc the sca. The grcat object of at-
traction liere lies 011 the north si de of the pro-
montory, about lialf a mile from the chapei, at an
elevation of 254 leet above tlie sea. where the
ground is covered with a dcep bed of loose agglu-
tinated sand, which envelopes what appear vcry
like the stoloniferoua roots and stems of bushes
and underwood in a petrified state.
Portella.— In ascending from Machico towards
S. Antonio da Serra the road is vcry good. It
branches off to the left from the elevated point
from which the valley of the Portella is first seen,
and joins the high road near tlie ehuTch of S.
Antonio da Serra. Following the more direct patli,
 MADEIRA. 149
íip tlie valley, tlic Porteila, " Little Gateway," ia
reached. From this pass a magnificent víew is
obtained of tlie rich valley of Torto da Cniz, on
the north coast. Tlie heigbts of Sant' Anna, and
the lofty pcak of Sant' Antonio, close in the view
on eitlicr side, while in front the isolated rock of
Penha d'Águia1 rises abruptly from the píain to
an elcvatíon of 1,915 feet above the sea, and tlie
distant ialands of Porto Santo appear in bold relief
on tlie horizon. Tlie líttle village of Porto da
Cruz lies at tlie base of the stupendous mass of
rock in front, and, towards the west, tlie village
cliureh of Fayal stands conspicuously on the cliffs
overhanging the sea. The descent from tliis point
to Porto da Cruz is so rugged and diffieult tliat
the route by the Lamaceiros is generally preferred.
Lamaceiros.—From this pass a similar view to
that from tlie Porteila is obtained. To reach it
from S. Antonio da Serra the tourist leaves tlie high
road, by the mill, to the west of tlie cliureh, and
continues along the side of the hills over a eompa-
ratively levei and pleasant riding path, till he
reaches tlie road which winds along the soutb side
of the hills from the Porteila, through extensive
traets of overgrown bilberry and gorse, renderíng
it in some places almost impassable on horseback.
At this junetion the path ascends in a northerly
direetion, and on reach ing the pass of the Lama-
ceiros continues on towards Porto da Cruz.

1
Penha cTitj/tíía-^Eagle-roei.
150 MADEIRA,

Porto da Cruz.—Tlie descent to Porto da Cruz

from the ridgc of tlie La macei ros, tliough abrupt
and fatiguing, ia greatly preferable to that by the
Portella. In the village itself there is nothíng
deserving of notice, nor is tlie seenery along tlie
miserable roads, towards Fayal, at ali interesting,
partícularly aftcr liaving witnesscd the more stu-
pendòus views from the heights above. The valley
of Porto da Cruz is celebrated for producing the
finest wines of the northern coast of the island.
Fayal.'1—On approaching Fayal from Porto da
Cruz, the beds of two torrente, which join in the
same ravine, near the sea, are crosaed; the path is
extremely rugged, and is earried, among rough
boulders, along the bed of the wcstcrn stream,
towards tlie sea, for upwards of a mile. A short
zigzag cut leads up the face of the clifT towards
Sant' Anna, calJed the ladeira do Fayal,3 but it is
quite impassable on horseback, and tlie rider is
recommendcd to take the more circuitous path by
the sea, which, ascendi»g by the church, leads to
the same eminence. Like Porto da Cruz, Fayal
possesses no attractions, nor any fine views of
seenery, till the heights towards Sant' Anna are
gained.
Sant' Anna,—The ascent towards Sant' Anna
from Fayal is tedious and difficult, several preci-
picea and rough rocks lying along the path. Where
these, somewhat dangerous, passes occur, it is
1
Fayal—A pkee where beoch-trees grow.
3
Ladeira—An abrupt, or stecp path.
 MADEIRA. 151

adviaable for the rider to dismount, espeeially it' lie

be at ali timid or nervons. On nearing tlie sura-
mit, the road is good, and a magnificent view is
obtained of tlie extensive valley beneath, with the
long ragged roeks of Saõ Lourenço atretcliing away
towards the east. Continuing along a compara-
tively levei and well-cut road overhanging the sea
at an elevation of nearly 2,000 feet, and emerging
through a pass eut in the mountain, the beautiful
and riclily cultivated plain of Sant' Anna opens to
view, From this point to the liotel, tlie road is
delightful, leading through grovea of cliestnut and
other trees, festooned with vínes, and intcrsperscd
with patchcs of cora and flax, a proof of the supe-
rior industry of this portíon of the people. The
position of tlie hotel of Sant' Anna is one of great
loveliness, situated near the verge of a cliff up-
wards of a thousand feet above the levei of the
sea, and embosomed in vme-covered chestnut-trees.
Tlie landlord, Snr. Luis Aeciaioli, is exceedingly
attentive and obliging, and his establishment is a
favourite resort with many of those who pass the
summer months in Madeira. The view from the
hotel is traly superb, and includcs tlie diatant
ialands of Porto Santo, with the wide Atlantic
strctching away to the north, tlie beautiful land-
seape of Saõ Jorge on the west, the lieights above
Fayal on the east, and the lofty Torrinhas, Pico
Ruivo, and heíghts of Ribeiro Frio, elosing in the
vast amphitheatre behind, From Sant' Anna
many delightful excuraions may be made, such as
152 MADEIRA.

to tlie Boa Vista, tom whance a víew of the

ravine of Saõ Jorge is obtained. Tlie valley of
Fayal and Porto dii Cruz, with the víew of tlie
Penha d'Águia to the east, and Pico Ruivo towards
the south, if tlie weather permit, will amply repay
the fatigue of a visit,
Pico Ruivo.—This is an object of some con-
sidera tion, and the tourist should endeavour to start
froin the hotel at the earliest dawn of day, pro-
vided with a hammoek to convey him to tlie sum-
mit, a triflibg distance, from the point where the
bridle-path ceases. The road ís comparatively
good, though the inelination is great, and passes
tlirough a serra covered with whin, broom and
bilberry, over mountains of rock and barc turf,
where, every liow and then, the most enclianting
views are met with. Near the summit, the hills
are covered with enormous trees of lieath, " Érica
arbóreameasuring from five to seven feet in
eircumferenee. The view from the Pico Iluivo, if
the weather be fine, is indeed stupendous. Tlie
rugged surface of tlie island is scen below, rent
into tliousands of deep ravines and brÍ3tliug crags.
La ter in tlie day tlie Mila become envelopcd in
clouds or vapour, which throw a gloomy grandeur
over the surrounding seene.
Saõ Jorge.—Crossing the ravine, to the west of
the hotel of Sant' Anua, by a steep and rugged path,
the parisli of Sao Jorge is entered, with its church
and adjoining cottages, almost hid from tlie view,
amidst a forest of viue-eovered chestnut-trees. Con-
 MADEIRA, 153

tiuuing westward, over a tolerably levei road, and

Crossing the Ribeiro Fundo,1 another of the moun-
tain torrenta which iiitcreept tlie roacla along the
whole northern coaat, the splendid scenery of tlie
Arco de Saõ Jorge opens to view. A levei tract of
land with quintas and eottages riaea amidst a niost
luxuriant garden of cultivai ion, while a semicircle
of steep and lofty mountains, rent into innume-
rable grotesque forma, encloaes the piam belúnd,
and fornis altogether a acene of unequalled gran-
deui. The Voltas,1 a splendid point for víewing
the suiTounding country, ahould not be passed
without a visit. Leaving the delightful scenery of
the Arco, and foliowing the road towarda the
Entroza,* tlie path is carried along the face of a
lofty cliff overhanging the sea, part of it suspended
over the <leep abyss below, and supported ou
sim pie bracketa of wood projeeting from the rock,
with a low parapet to relieve the giddy feeling
caused by tlie great elevation, and the noise of the
sea as it laalies against the rocka immediately
beneath. The ravine of Boa Ventura ia now
reached. At the bottom the romantic village of the
same liame lies nestling betwccn the siriallcr hilla
which rise at the outlet of one of the grandest
chaams of the north coast,
The road leading from Sant' Anna to Funchal
by Ribeiro Frio (cold river), ia remarkably good,
1
Ribeiro Fundo—Deep river.
1
Voltas—A place to tum at.
* Entroza—Tlie eoga of a wheel,
u3
154 MADEIRA.
and possessos some most magnificent points of
view. For about two honre tlie ascent ís gradual;
but after passrng the Ponte-grande on the Fajãa da
Murta, a continued and stccp ascent of nearly an
hour is encountered. From the summit tlie road
winds round the hills to Ribeiro Frio, and affords a
view of tlie valley of Meio Metade, probably tlie
finest scenery in the island. Crossing the bridge
of Ribeiro Frio a ratlier steep ascent is again en-
countered ; tlie first part of the road is well paved,
but the latter part towarda tlie " Feiteiras," a levei
tract of land, is rugged and uneven. Crossing
this plain the ascent continues to tlie Poizo, about
4,500 feet above the sea, from whence the íirst
view of Funchal is obtained, and from this point
a path branches off along tlie ridge of mountains
towards S. Antonio da Serra, another descenda by
the steep Caminho do Meio to Funchal; tliat by
the Mount Church is however gene rally preferred.
 CHAPTER XIV.

TOUB OF THE ISLAND CONTINCED.

Saõ Vigente.—Leavmg Funchal by the Saõ

Martinho road, leadíng to the westward, and pass-
ing througli a richly cultivated district, the Estreito
de Cama de Lobos is reached, where the finest wines
of the island are produced. After erossing the
bridge o ver t lie Ribeiro dos Soccoridos,and ascending
the opposite side of the ravine, the road continues
on towards the village of Cama de Lobos, and a
braneh, turning off to the right, ascenda the moun-
tains, by the Estreito ehurch, to the verge of the
Curral, or, turning off behind the cliurch, leads to
the same point by the
Jardim da Serra,* the beautiful sunimer resi-
dence of the late British Cônsul, Mr. A eitch. Ibis
quinta is well worthy of a visit. The walks are
beautifully shaded with large chestnut and other
trees, and adorned with various shrubs and flowers.
The tea-plant ha 9 bcen successfuHy cultivated in
the grounda; and the leaves are used by the pro-
prietor ín preferenee to the importcd article. .The
plant, however, lias not been allowed to extcud
itself to other parts of the island, where its cul-
1
Jardim da Serra—Garden of the mountain forcst.
156 MADEIRA,
tivation miglit probably be attendecl with ad-
vantageous result3. Passing the Jardim, and
aacending a somewhat rugged path, the brink of
the Curral is gained.
Curral.'—This enormous ravine is the great
" lion" of Madeira, and to ít the first exciirsion
ia generally made by ali love:s of natural seenery.
From an elevation of 4,300 feet above the levei of
tlie sea, the chnrch of the Curral is seen below at
a dcpth of 1,654 feet from the point of view; and
the prospect is bounded by lofty and almost per-
pendicular elifls rising nearly 4,000 feet behind.
Pico Ruivo, clothed in verdure, reais its lofty
summit towards the east, and the bare roeky peaks
of the "Torrinhas" appear like castellated for-
tresses on the summit of the niountains which
elose in the enormous ehasm on the north. Con-
tinuing the ascent, and passing along a narrow
path of suddcn curves and anglcs, resemblmg the
extcnsive bastions of some immense fortificaiion,
with deep and perpendicular precipices on the
right, the bcautiful and wild seenery of the
Serra <VAcjoa1 opens to view. The path then
erosses the sharp and narrow ridges which divide
the se two bold and noble ravines, and winds along
the face of the almost perpendicular eliffs beyond,
at an elevation sufficiently great to try the nervefl
of the boldest rider. Magnificent trecs of the
laurel tribe shoot out from the othenvise bare rocks
1
Curral, or Curral das Freira»—Nun s fold.
2
Serra d'Arjoa—Mountain torreiít.
 MADEIRA. 157

overhead, and the most luxuriant vegetation clotlics

the ricli valley below. Crossing several romantic
streams, and. frequent landslips, caused by lhe
falling rocks or tíie rusli of waters froni the heights
above, the patli continues the same winding eourse
to the " Encumiada" of Saõ Vicente, and aflfords
at every turning a new and diversified scene.
Encumiada.1—From tbís point the Atlantic, like
an immensc minor, is secn stretehing towards the
horizon on either side. Thc valley of the Serra
d'Agoa, and líibeira Brava,4 extends towards the
sua on the south, and the deep ravine of Saõ
Viçente lies betwcen two lofty mountain-ridgos
extending their jagged peaks towards the north,
the village reposing in solemn quietness below.
Saõ Vigente.—The descent to Saõ Vicente is
exceedingly abrupt and fatiguing; and although
tlie sea appears immediately below, it seems to
rccede, like an "ignis fátuas," as the distanee is
shortened. The hotel is situated a little beyond
tlie village of " Magdalena," at some distance from
the coast, and affords but indifferent accommoda-
tion, and scarcely anything in the cnlinary depart-
nient. The road continues, from the hotel towards
the village of Saõ Viçente, along the elevated
banks of the torrent, tlirough orehards and orange
groves, and is delíghtfully shaded by lofty chest-
nut-trees, from wliose branchcs the vínes liang
in graceful festoons. The clrarch, and village,
1
Encumiada—líidge of tbe mo untam,
1
Mibeirá Brava—Wild Tiver.
158 MADEIRA.

which gives the name to the ravine, lie in a deep

hollow near the coast, protected from tlic northem
blasts by tlie " Achada," ' an elevated plain which
forma, as it were, a natural vali betwecn the
vil!age and the sea, with lofty precipioea rising
on eacli side. On emerging from this basin, a
curious insula teci and hollow rock rises on the
beaeh in front. Tliis rock lias bcen converte d into
a chapei,9 by the addition of a door and a few
steps. Hcre the torrent Í3 crossed, and the irre-
gular and nigged path is continued along tlie
margin of the sea, wííh towering clifft overhead,
at one point crossing the brow of an abrupt and
lofty headland, with a low parapet to sliut out the
dizzy view of the roeky coast below, and tlien
again descenda and winda onwards towards Ponta
Delgada,
Ponta Delgada,s—This village is situatcd on a
long narrow point of land jutting out from the
base of the mountain rídge behind, and einbosomed
in treea. The visitor wishing to sojourn at Ponta
Delgada, will find accommodation, but probably
little else, in the liouse of Snr. Jozé de Abrcn; in
these excursions, however, the tourist, as lias been
already advised, must be in some measure inde-
pendent of the village euisine of Madeira.
Boa Ventura.'—Aftcr passing Ponta Delgada,
1
Achada— A levei piece of ground.
2
A Ermida—or Hermitage of Saõ Viçente.
3
Ponta Delgada—Narrow point.
4
Boa Ventura—Good fortune.
 MADEIRA. 159
the road to Boa Ventura is a continuation of irre-
gular ascents and descents. At th is village indif-
ferent accommodation may be obtained at a house
belonging to a relative of the Curate; but, tliougíi
an interesting and romantic spot, the viilagc of Boa
Ventura offers little inducement for a lengthened
sojoum. Crossing the ravine to the east of the
village, the road ascends along the sea-clíffs of the
Entroza to the Arco de Saõ Jorge, which has been
already deseribed in the excursions from Sad Jorge.1
Torrinhas?—Taking an iuland direction from
Boa Ventura, the to uri st ascends, by the lofty
Torrinhas, to the Curral; the road for a consí-
dcrable distance ís good, and the aseent gradual.
On reaching the upper part of the ravine, the in-
clination becomes most abmpt and terrific. The
path is narrow and paved with large smooth
stones, passing at intervala along the brink of
deep raviues, with towering precipíees above, and
winding in a zigzag direction over the narrow
ledge of rocks, or turning some acute angle, where
a false step would send horse and rider rolling
into the rocky abyss below. The sceneiy is
stupendous and grand beyond description; lofty
and richly-wooded rocks rise abruptly in front,
without any seeming outlet, till a sudden turn in
tlie patli brings a new and similar dlfficulty to
view. Grand and magnificent, however, as tlie
scenery certainly is, it barely repays one for the
continued anxiety and nervous feeling occasioned
1 1
See page 153. Torrinhas—Tlie towens or turrew.
160 MADEIRA.

by passing along these narrow and dangerous

paths; anti visitors are strongly recommended to
avaíl themselves of the hammock, as a means of
conveyance on such excursions, as the dangor in-
curred on horaeback will probably deprive thcm
of tlie pleasure which niight otlicrwiac be dcrived
from contemplating the beauty and grandeur of
the scenery. The pass of the Torrinhas Is gained
after a toiling asceiít of nearly three horas dura-
tion, and from this ele vate cl poínt a niagnifieent
view is obtained of the deep ravines and beetling
crags stretching towards the nortli, and the lofty
Píco Ruivo towering in aolemn grandeur behind.
The rugged heights encireling the Curral stretch
ont on either side, and the church and buildings
appear like mere toys at the bottom of the deep
valley below. The elevation is considerably up-
wards of 5,000 feet above the levei of the sea, but
the deseent to the bottom of the Curral is by 110
means so abrupt or fatiguing as might be expecte d
froin such a height. líaving rcached the church,
situated 011 a small elevated platean, íhere is no
objeet of intercst to induce the tourist to prolong
his stay. Aseending the winding path towards
Funchal, from the bed of the Curral, the vista, or
view of tliis deep mountain-gorge, is reaclied. From
th is point the road winds round a series of steep
hills towards Funchal, without any parapet or pro-
tection on its outer edge; and after one or two
abrupt and rugged descents, joins the Sant' An-
tonio road a short distancç above the church.
 MADEIRA. 161

Cama de Lobos \—Proceeding aiong the new

road to tlie west of Funchal, and crossing the
Ribeira dos Soccoridos near the sea, or descending
towaids tlie coa3t from the levei ground above the
bridge oí' the Estreito, we anive at the village of
Cama de Lotos, There is notliing in this spot to
merit íiotiee. The inhabitants are eomposed chicfly
of fishermen and their families, whose miserable
hovels, or caves dug in the soft parts of the rocks
which overhang the town, give the place an aspect
of great misery. The little bay is exccedingly
pícturesque, but its beauty is in a mcasure destroyed
by the filth and stench around. The number of
miserable Iookiiig children, eneountered at every
turning, would almost lead one to suppose that it
was thc grand nursery of tlie ísland; they swarm
around the visitor like so many locusts, and their
begging propensities are not to be appeased, the
presentation of a fcw coppers only tending to aug-
ment the band. To the -westward the towering
sea-cliff of
Cape Giram1 ri ses abruptly from the sea to
an elevatíon of 1,600 feet. Tlie road leadíng to-
wards the summít is well paved, and, though ex-
ceedingly steep, the ascent is easily effeeted. Turn-
ing towards the south, on gaining tlie ridge of tlie
mountain, and passiug through a thicket of pine-
trees, the verge of this enormons headland ia
1
Cama de Lobos—Sea-wolFs den. From Lobos J\fariiiho$t
sea-wolveB or seals*
2
Cabo giram—Cape turn-again, From th is point Zargo's
companions returaed to their ships, after tbeir first survey.
162 MADEIKA.
arrived at. The view, for thoae wlio have sufficient
nerve to support them so ncar tlie brink, is grand
and terrific; tlie passing boats below appear like
mere speeks on the surfaee of the ocean. The
whole line of coast as far as tlie Garajáo ia visible,
and, with the adjoining hills and ravines, preaents
to the eye a varied and charming panorama.
Passing Cape Giram, the road winds along the
hills to Campanario, from wlienee a path leads off
towards the Jardim da Serra and Curral, descend-
ing to llibcira Brava, and passing through the
rich districts of Ponta do Sol and Canhas, over a
ru
Soe<3 and unpleasant road with a continuai Íon of
rapid ascents and descents, but with little to interest
the tourist, until, after a long and fatiguing ride,
he reaches the village of Calheta.
Calheta—On account of the long and tedious
journey by land, a visit to Calheta is usually per-
forined by sea. The boat passes under the lofty
and bare cliíf of Cape Giram, on the face of which
the ladder path, einploycd by the labourers in
blasting the rocks for buiIding purposes, many
years ago, when they were interrupted by the
sudden explosion of a mine, is still seen, along
with the tools of the workmen, suspended from the
rock at ao elevation of several hundred feet from
its base. The coast as far aa Calheta is bold and
ragged; the village ports of Ribeira Brava and
Ponta do Sol are passed, and a sail of about tive
hours from Funchal will generally enabíe the
1
Calheta—A small creek.
 MADEIRA. 163

tourist to land at Calheta. The hotel, the most

comfortable of the village iniis of Madeira, is sitn-
ated some distance from thebeaeh. The landlord,
Siír, Drummondo, is exceedingly obliging and at-
tentive to visitors, and will procure the necessary
conveyanccs for excursions to the Prazeres,1 Fajãa
d' Ovelha, * and the springs of Rabaçal.1 The
road continues along the coast, and close to the
sea, witli few interruptíons, as far as Ponta do
Pargo. With this district of the island so little
intercourse is kept up, that the peasantry are more
primitive and unsophisticated than the natíves of
any other part of Madeira.
Rabaçal and Paill da Serra.1—The ascent from
Calheta to the Paul da Serra Í3 exceedingly ab-
rnpt, and the road wretehed in the extreme. An
enclianting view, however, from time to time pre-
sents itself. On reaching the ridge of mountains
which divide the north and south coasts of the
island, the magnificent seenery of the ravine of
lííbeira da Janellai bursts on the view. Towards
the south the villages and heights of the Arco da
Calheta, Calheta, and Paul do Mar streteh along
the coast. The Paul da Serra, a vast uninliabíted
plain, 5,159 feet above the sea, nearly nine miles
long and three broad, extends its bleak and gloomy
1
Prazeres—Pleasures.
Fajãa <f Omllia—A. shcep ilown, or plain for rearing shcep.
3
Rabaçal—From Eabaça, a plaat, a epecies o( vrater parsley.
(Larer Lat.) Rabaçal, a bed of the Bame,
* Paiil da Serra—Marshy-ground on the hills.
' Ribeira da JaneUa,—Window river.
164 MADEIRA.

anrface, along tlie mo untam ridge, towards the

east, partly covercd * with thiek brushwood, or
barc aandfl, and affording in some places a scanty
pasturage for cattle. A short descent towards thc
nortli brings the tourist to the waterfall of Rabaçal,
from which the snpply of water, for irrigating the
lands aboye Calheta, was to be obtamed, and con-
veyed by a levada, throngb au extensive tunnel, to
tlie sou th a ide of the island. The volume of water
is sometimes consíderable, and falis from an almost
perpendicular height of nearly a thousand feet,
with numerous minor streams trickling down the
face of the rock, at the head of thc deep and
narro w ravine, wliere the Ribeira da Janella com-
mences. The vicw from the levada, over which
tlie mass of water íorins a graceful arch as it
descenda into tlie ravíne beneath, is grau d and
imposing. The water-course, which is looked upon
as one of the greatest island works of modem times,
has been alrcady deseribed in thc prescnt work.1
Crossing the Paul da, Serra, the road descends
to Saõ Yiçente; it is painfully abrupt, and, 1ikf>
thc bed of a torrent, strewed with large boulders
which liave been carried down by the heavy rains
that fali, at certain seasons, with fearful force on
this sidc of the island.
£ rom Saõ ^ íçente the tourist may proceed on
to Sant' Anna, or return to Funchal by the Serra
d' Agoa, both of which routes liave been deseribed
in the prescnt and preeeding ehapters.
1
See page 47.
APPEXDIX.
MADEIRA. 107
168 APPENDIX.
Population of Madeira and Porto Santo, tmth lhe actent of
Emiyration, from the various Returne /time 1835.

POPULATIO». Emigration.
Yesrs, Totftl. Years. Total.
1835 115,446 1835
1839. 115,761 1839 to 1841... 9,000
1843*.. 119,041 1842 to 1846... 5,600
1847 106,436 4,000
1848 106,603 300
1849 110,084 1849 330
1850 1,300

British Popukition in Madeira in 1850.

81 Famílies. 317 Pcrsons.

(B.)-Page 28.
Tlie British Chaplain is nomírated by the members
of the congregation who are entitled to vote;1 and if
the person so named be approved of by Her Majesty's
Government, and found duly qualified for the office, lie
receivea his appointment from the Crown, holding sueli
appointment " for and during Her ilajesty's pleasure
and no longer." Tlie Aet 6 Geo. IV. chap. 87, com-
monly callcd the Consular A et, regulates ail matters
counected with the support and management of the
Britisli Chapei t ti Madeira. It was formerly tho cus-
toni, on Her Majesty's appointing the chaplain, to
obtain for him a licenee from the Bishop of London,
This licencc was, however, very differeut from a
;
Persons who have contributed 201. towards the church-fund,
aad paid 3Í. aterling during the year, are enlitled to vote.
 APFENDIX. 160
Bishop's licence for the cure of souls iti England, sinoc
no English Bisliop ean, properly speaking, have any
jurisdiction iti a foreign diocese ; íhe present Bishop of
London desenhes it " as nothing more tlian a certificate
from me to Her Majesty'8 Goverumetit, on one side,
and the British resideuts on tlie other, of my belief
that the clergyman to whom it is given is a respectable
person." The licence ceases with the appointmcnt, or
rather lapses on. its cnncelment; this lias been settled
by the unanimous decision of four judges, sitting in
Banco, in the anaiogous case of Reg. v. Middlesex
Pauper Lunatic Asylum (Visiting Justices), 2 Q.Lí. 483.
The original regulations regarding a bfehop'e licence
emanated from the Foreign Office j these liave been
rcccntly cancelled, and others substituted in their
]>lace, in whíeh the necessity of a bishop's licence to a
foreign chaplaincv is done away with for the present;
the Secretary of State taking care to ascertain that a
clergyman is duly qualified for the sitnation, before his
appointmcnt takes placc, One-half of the chaplain's
stipend is paid by Iler Majesty's Government, and the
otlier raoiety by the residents.

(C.)—ragc 30.

Tlie Hospital of Saõ Lazaro was fonmled by tlie

mnnicipality in 1605, and receives from the G o verti-
ment an annual allowance of 150 dollars, Various
donations and legacies liave been made to the esta-
blishment, from time to time, by private individuais,
1
170 APPENDIX.
whieh have euabled tho authorities to make consider-
able additions to the building. About two-thirds of
thc patients aro maios. Tho usual age of tbose aífected
witli elephantiasis is from fifteen to twenty-five years,
and nono of tbo patients exceed the age of fifty; the
majority dio from tho disease extending to the organs
of voice, respiration, and digestion.

(D.)—Pago 30.
The first Hospital existing ia Funchal was founded
by Zargo, ín 1454. In 1483 it was transferred to
grounds granted, in tlie district of Santa Maria Maior,
where the Kua do Hospital Vellia now exists, by
Alvaro Affonso, and liis wife, Constança Vaz, for that
purpose.
Thc Santa Casa do Misericórdia, the present hospital,
was fonnded by royal charter, in 1611, and tho ineome of
tbe former institution was annexed to it in 1514, The
establishment continuing to flourish, and receiving
many gifts and legacies, enablod tlie authorities to
orcct the present building in 1C85, uiider thc directíon
of l'edro de Lima, thcn goveraor and captain-general.
Therc are also hospitais at Santa Cruz, Machico, and
otlior parts of the islaud, bnt they aro totally neglected,
and possess ueither furnitnrc, medicines, nor any otber
requisite.
 APPENDIX. 171

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172 APPKNDIX,

(F.)-—Page -37.

The following extract from the laws relating to the

liberty of the press, issued at Lisbon in August 1850,
nnd ii ow in full force, may bo íntevesting, as showing
the despotio tendeucy of the Portiiguese Government.
And the present Governov of Madeira lias made known
bis determination to enforoe " the full penalties imposed
]>y law, ou ali parties who, directly or indirectly, en-
deavour to promotc proselytism amoiig the subjeets of
Portugal, contrary to the Catliolic and ApostolLc reli-
gion of Eouie."
" Enumeration and classifieation of crimes or delin-
quencies committed by the publíeation of ideas, by
worda, by writing, or through the piess."—Tit. I.
chap. 1.
" Ali pcrsons can communicate their ideas by worils,
by ívriting, or through the press, independent of censor-
ííhip, hut are responsible for tlie abusea they may
commit in the exercise of thia right, in the manner and
by the form tlie law may determine."—Carta Constitu-
cional, Ari. 145.
Chap. 2.—"A crime is committed by the pnblica-
tion of thoughte that deny, or throw a doubt upon,
any dogma defined by the Catholic Church, or that
dcfend, as a dogma, the doctrinee condemned by that
Church."
" Blaspbemy againBt God or the saints, or making
a mockery or derisíon of the Catholic religion, or
dívine worahip approved of by that Church, .... are
punishable . . , . if publisíied, sold, or placarded in
different places, or puhlie meetings, by imprisonment
 APPENDIX. 173
from six months to three years, and a fine of oue hun-
drcd to one thonsand dollars. . , . . If committed iu
couversation, or by words publicly uttcred in a loud
tone of voice, they are putiishable with imprísoimient
of from three to oightecn m ou ti is, and a fine of fifty to
fira hundred dollars." ....!!

(G.)—Pago 37.

The Collegiate Chapter of the Santa Só, or Cathedral

of Funchal, consista of fivc dignitários, twelve canons,
and four minar canons.
The dignitaries are Dean, Archdeacon, Precentor,
Professor of Theology, and Chiof Treasurer.
The Dean possessos an incoine of 7 moios and 34
alqueires, cqual to ahout 102^ bushels of wheat, 11
pipos of wino, Cl lbs. of white sugar, 12 kids, 12 fowls,
and 27,700 rs. in money. The other diguitaries receive
each 4 moios and 23 alqueires of ivheat, 9 pipes of
wine, and 20,700 rs. in money.
The Canons receive each 3 moios and 10 alqueires of
wheat, 7 pipes of wine, and 20 dollars in money. The
Minor Canons roceivc each 2 moios and 11J alqueires
of wheat, 4 pipes of wine, and 13,350 rs. in money.
The Conego de feneienciario, or Canon who has charge
of the confessional, rcceives 20 dollars additional .per
amium,
Thero are also attached to the Cathedral ten Chap-
lains, each reeeiving 84 alqueires of whcat, 3 pipes of
wine, and 7 dollars; and one Sub-Precentor, whose
174 appendix.
incomo is 90 alqueires of wheat, 3^ pipes of wine, aud
9 dollars.
Chief Sacristau ! iucome, $ pipos of wine, 87 alqueires
of wheat, 64 lbs. of wax, and 8 dollars.
ÂUareiro, or Verger: income, 2 pipes of wine, 1 moio
of wheat, atid G,G00 rs. in money.
Chapei Master : income, 3J pipes of wine, 00 alqueires
of wheat, and 9 dollars,
Organist: income, 2 pipes of wine, 84 alqueires of
wheat, and 5,400 rs, in money.
Master of the Ceremonies: incomo, 1 pipo of wine,
30 alqueires of wheat, and 5,400 rs. in money.
Six Choristers : who cacl) receive pipe of wine,
| moio of wheat, and 2 dollars per aimum.
Two Curates : eaoh, 7 pipes of wine, 90 alqueires of
wheat, aud 12 dollars per annum,
A Bcadle: whose income is 1 moio of wheat, 1 pipo
of wine, and 5,400 rs. in money.
A Bell-ringer : income, 1 i pipes of wine, 30 alqueires
of wheat, and 4,800 rs.
Ali these ineomes pay to Government a dizimo, or
tithe, of C alqueires ou eaeh moio of wheat, 3 almudes
ou eaeli pipe of wine, and 15 per cent. on money.
At present there is no Dean, uor Precentor, and only
sis Canons aud two Minor Canons.
 appendix. 175

(H.)—Page 02.
Exporte of Wine from. Madeira, during the Year ending í/te
31íi of December, ISSO, from Offiáal Betuma.

Whert Exporta. Pipw. Whcn Exportfd.

As Shipfa Stores.......... 102 Exporta brougbtforward...

To Antigua.... «• 144 To Laguna, TeneriíFe...
Barbados 41 Lisbon
Bergen 35 Liverpool «...
Bombay 14 London
Bremen 156 Madras
Calcutta*... 41* Maraeillea ♦-
Cape de Verde ...... 3 Mauri tíus
Cayenne..-.. . — n Monte Video ...
Charleston —— 7Qk Nassau
Constantinople 125 New York...
Cuba . U Santa Cruz, W. I
171Í St Micliael'a and tbe\
Elsineur 29i ♦'
Figueira, Spain 3 St. Petcrsburgb
Gibraltar 44 St. Thomas, W. I. ...»
Guadaloupe .... 10i St. Vlncent
Hamburgb 542 Southampton
Jamaica * 211| In small quantitles
Carried forward.... 1,6721 Total .

Exporta duriDg 184Ô . . . 7,3*9 pipcs.

Esporte of Wine from Madeira during the follottnng Yetirs.

Tnus. Pipo*. Tear*. Pipo*. Te*r». Pipw.

14,432 7,157 1845 7,170

5,459 0,270 1846 8,190
7,730 7,385 1847 5,577
mo 7,975 1844 7,054 1848 5,829
 176 AFPEXDIX.
The export duty on ali wiuea shipped from Madeira
previous to 1834, amounted to 8,700 reis (or 40s. 5d.)
per pipo of 23 almudes, or 92 imperial gallons. In
1834 tlús duty was reduced to 4,800 reis (or 20í.) per
pipe. With adclitional charges, however, which have
sinoe been added, the export duty now amounts to
5,530 reis (or 23s. Oiti.) per pipe of 92 imperial gallons.
A large portion of the wine shipped from Madeira to
the East and "West Indies, is thonce convcyed to ports
in the United Kingdom, and appeara in the English
markets as East or West índia Madeira.
The greater pari of that esported to Hamburgh, and
ports ia the Baltic, is of the most inferior description.
The nines sent to Lishon are there re-ahipped to
Hamburgh, where, together with those imported direet
fioni Madeira, they aro said to Lo eonvcrted into hock
for the English markets.

Total Qmntities of Madeira Wine Imported, Exported, and

Retained for Home CoMumplion, in lhe United Kingdom.
for Ten Yeart,

imported. Exported.
rnJIrm*, laltons» falir®».
279,157 143,829 112,555
215,253 146,283 107,701
200,413 107.6G2 65,209
245,498 101,412 93,589
226,660 149,037 111,577
213,229 137,641 102,745
205.(06 138,491 94,580
201,096 100,506 81,349
154,701 86,430 76,938
165,463 129,897 71,097
 APPEXDIX. 177

Total Quantities of Madeira Wine Imported into the United

States of America, from, the 1 st July, 1844, lo SOt/t June,
1350—six years.

Ye*r rnding G Alton*. Yenr rnding

30 June. Oallons.
30 June,

101,176 1848 . 14,634

109,797 1S19 103,071
130,923 1850 . 303,125

Vesseh entered at tite Port of Funchal during the year 1350.

Vrutli of War. j Mtrehant Vnwli, 1
Nations.
£ 1Ú i »-e° i | a 31 1 S i
l! "3 * Hl
0 «Í» zo &> S/Sl í*- If
American ....... 8 92 24 4,635 £20,700 32
Danish 12 3 672 1,200 4
Dutch............. 1 2 1
^English. 23 17 305 10S 10 30,065 62,310 158
French 1 G 34 9 3,413 16
Greek 4 1,070 4,200 4
! Hanoverian...... 1 76 1,000 1
Mecklenburg ... 1 330 1,250
Neapolitan ...... 1 20 t
Norwegiart ...... l 80 750
Portuguesa...... 1 1 22 104 12,027 56,980 106
Prussian ......... 1 6 1
Russian 2 101 1 110 3
Sardinlan......... 1 16 12 1,973 12,300 13
Spanish 1 2 8 666 1,500 9
Tuscan 1 138 800 I
Total 30 26 j 615 277 10 | 55,264 11162,990 352
I 3
178 APPENDIX.

Vaseis Entcred dttring the Nine Yeart preceding 1859.

Ycar. Mer- Total.

Wmr. chant, Tear. Mer- Total.
Wtr, chant.
1841 54 295 340 1846 73 334 407
1842 70 296 366 BG 320 406
1843 62 302 364 74 287 361
1814 57 320 377 58 m 337
1845 85 237 322
The Customs rocoipts at Madeira, iucluding the
municipal impost 011 graiu, &c.—
For 1840, amounted to . . 129,492 dollare.
1860
» - ■ 119,344 „
Docrease in 11 years . , . 10,148 „

(1)—Pílge 71.
Dr. Fothergill, wh o wrote so for back as 1775, anil
Dr. Gourlay, in 1811, have alike established the great
advantages of the climate of Madeira as regards its
mildneea and equability of temperature, and its bene-
ficiai effects ou pulmonar}- diseases. Till the late
Dr. Ileuton, howcver, brought the subject before the
medicai world, in a paper publiehod in the Edinburgh
Medicai and SurgUsal Journal, in 1817/ its advantages
were not generally known or apprcciated m Englaud ;
atui the observations made hy Dr. Heincken, and pub-
lisheií in the Medicai Reponiory, in 1824/ have placed
it, as a wiater resort for invalida, probably above any
»ther spot in the northern hemisphere. Tliat the
climate of Madeira ean proloug life, even under the
1
V°!. xxrii, 1817. * Vol. «1L 1824.
 APFEXDÍX. 17(J

most unfavourable circumstauees, the case of Dr.

Heineken will atford a sufficient proof. 1 his gentio mau
repaired to Madeira in 1820, "wlieu his caso was pro-
nouncetl, by some of the most acute physieiaus in
Britain, as rapidly approaehing to a fatal termination ;
yet, under thcse cireumstances, lio managed to live in
comparativo comfort for nine years. Hia death was
ultimatcly oecasioned by exposure to the night air
wbile roturaing from tbo adjaeent islands of Porto
Santo, in an open boat; a storm arose during the
passage, from tlie effects of which he rapidly saiik, and
died witbin a few hours of bis return to Funchal.
Dr. Benton, -who, at bis reqnest, performed the autopsy,
expressed himself astonished how he could have sus-
tained life with so smail a portion of his respiratory
organs, scarcely a vestigc of one of his lungs remaining,
and tlio otiicr in a condition which conld not cxist in
England.'
Sir James Clark, in his valuable work on ClÍmate,J
says: " The mean annnal temperatura of Funchal, the
capital of Madeira, is (54°, being about 5a only above
that of the Italian and Provençal elimates. Tliis Tery
raoderate mean temperature, relatively to its low lati-
tude, arises, liowever, from the circumstaiice of the
summer at Madeira being proportionally cool; for,
whilst the winter is 20" warmer than at London, the
summer is only 7° warmer; and whilst the winter is
12° warmer than Italy or 1'rovence, the summer is
nearly 5" cooler. The mean annual range of tempera-
1
See " Wilde'8 Narrativo ofo Voyage to Madeira," &e. Long-
niati
1
& Co.; London, 1340.
"The Sanative Infiuence of CUmate." London: J. Murray,
1846,
180 APPENDÍS.
tiire is only 14", be!ng lesa thau half the range of Rome,
Pisa, Naplea, and Nico. The heat is alao distribnted
throughout tho year with surprisillg equality, so íhat
thc mean diffcrcnee of the temperatura of successive
months is only 2o. 21 ; this at Rome is 4*.39, at Nice
4".74, at Pisa 5',75, and at Naplcs 5",08. When we
take into consideration the mildncss of thc winter, and
thc coolness of the summer, tcgother with the rcmark-
ahle equality of the temporature during thc day and
night, as wcll as thronghout the year, we may aafely
oonclude that the climate of Madeira is the flnest in
the northern hemisphere. Tlicre is no occasion for a
person throughout the winter in Funchal, to breathe,
night or day, within doors, an atmosphere below the
temperatnrc of 64"• or in tho oountry, during thc
summer, at snch a height as to ensure dryuess, above
that of 7 4o. That great and lastíng benefit is to te
derived from a temporary residenee in the climatc of
Madeira, many living exainples, Dr. Rcnton remarks,
sufficiently prove. But even under such comparatively
favourable circnrastanccs, it ought to be strongly im-
pressed on the miiid of thc invalid, that half-measurea
are worse than uscless, and that no advantage is to be
derived from climate, unless it be seconded by the
utmost caution and prudence ou his part."

(K.)—Page 87.
Some parta of Spaín have been much lecommendod
of Iate yeara, as winter resorts for invalida. Among
these Malaga stands preeminent j its climate, liowevcr,
mentioncd by aome of the leading medicai men in
 APPENDIX, 181

Enghmd as bemg equiJ to tliat of Madeira, appeara to

have been conáderably overrated, as many of the latest
sojourncrs therc bave found to their cost. The follow-
ing Table, which lias been kiudly ftirnished by Dr.
Shortliff, of Malaga, may not therefore be out of plaee,
as it affords a comparisoii betwccn tlie elimates of
Madeira and Malaga, thongb raucli milder and more
equable than tlie Tables of Temperature for some years
preceding.
From tbis Table (see nexfc page) we find the animal
range of temperature at Malaga, from observations taken
duriug tlie day, to be 38", while at Madeira it is only
22".Õ'; the temperature at Malaga bcing 7" lower
during the wiater, and 9" iiigher during the summer,
than that of Madeira.
An example of the ignorante of some medicai writers
with regard to the climate of Madeira, oecurs in a work
by James Bright, M.D., entitled "A Practieal Synopsia
of Diseases of the Chest," &c. published by J. Churehill,
London, 1850. " Madeira," says this writer, " on ae-
eouut of its genial temperature, is ivcll snited to
invalids suffering under pulmonary discase, from No-
vember till Jnne. Iu the intermediate period, however,
the heat is almost insupportable ; hence many persous,
in order to escape the depressing influenee of the
sultriness of the climate during tho hot months, take
a voyage to Teneriffe." The heat duriug tho period
from June to November is not at ali insupportable;
and during upivards of fifteea years' residence in
Madeira, the author never heaid of an instance of any
one takiug a voyage to Teneriffe for the purpose of
escaping the sultriness of the climate, as tbere tliey
wonld certainly meet with a much higher temperature
than
 182 appendix.

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nr* NK Kn t»» Oe «ÍIÍ;

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 APPENDIX. 183

thari in Madeira. The mean temperature for eacli

month at Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, aecordmg to Sir James
Clark, is as íollows :—

January. PVbruarv. March. April. May, Jaiw,

de?. (IfU- rl«r. dre, de*. dí-[f.
63,84 64.29 67,17 67.32 72.12 73.89

July. Aupust. Sfptfmber, Oetobff. Norcmbcr. Doermbfr. Year.

dei. rtp*. d**. dm. drr.
77.27 78.83 77.43 74.66 70.43 6 .>.82 70.94

(L.)—Fage 107.
Tables of hloneys, Weiíjld», and Mea&ures current
in Madeira.
Accounts in Madeira are kept íta reis, ati imaginary
coin, equal to one-fifth of a farthing ; 1,000 reis being
mil-reU, or one dollar.
The calculation is similar to that of the United
States curreney, with a unit addedj thus, 10 cetits
= 100 reis, 100 eents = 1,000 reis, or one dollar.
POBTUGU£SE COINS. rf
RiU. £ '■ -
tj 5 Cínco-ruis = M 0|
S; \ 10 Dez-teis = 0 o ol
e^ 20 Vintém = 001
SPAÍÍISH COINS,
«!!!. £ '■
r SO Meio Tosln3, or half-bit = 00-1
100 ToitaS, orbit - = 0 0 5
- I 200 Dois Toslííes, or pístareen
w
= 0010
\ 1,000 Pataca, or dollar = 042
{2,ooo One-eigbth doubloon = 084
4,000 ttuarter doublooil = 0 16 8
8,000 Half doubloon = 1 13 4
10,000 One doubloon = S 6 fi
184 APPENDIX,
ENGLISH COINS.
£ t. d. koií.
^ /O 0 6 Sixpence.*.. .» . . = 120
Joio Shilling ...... „... = 240
0 2 6 HaIf*crown — 600
5 I 0 10 0 Half-sovereigtt . .. = 2,400
£ VI 0 0 Sovereign = 4,800
AMERICAN COINS.
Omt*. £ i. d. Rei».
{5 Half-dime = 0 0 2\ = 50
10 Dime ±=005 = 100
50 Half-dollar = 0 2 1 = 500
100 Dollar, U. S. or Mexican...... = 0 4 2 = 1,000
/ 250 Quarter-eagle s 0 10 5 = 2,500
2 I 500 Half-eagle = 1 0 10 — 5,000
£ j 1,000 Eagle ... = 218 = 10,000
* 2,000 Double-eagle = 4 3 4 ■* 20,000

Rate of Exchange on Bilh in Madeira.

At the par of exchange between Madeira and Londou,
a mil-rei, or dollíir, is equal to 5s. Gd., and a pound
sterling to 3,636^7 reis. The sovereign, liowever, by a
deeree of the Fortuguese Government, being ourrent
in Madeira at 4,800 reis, gives is. ~2d. for a mil-rei, or
32 per eeiit. premium on the par of exchange. This
premium, or rate of exchange on billa ia Madeira,
fluctuates according to the demand. Tho foUowhig
Table ■will alioiv the value, iu Madeira eurroncy, of
100/. sterling, accordiug to the premium, from 25 to
30 per ccnt.

Madeira
Prfmlum, Currency. Madeira
Premium. Currency, Mftdtira
Premium. Currency.
Per CetH. Reii, Per Crat, Rfíi. P*r Ccnt. Rrt«.
25 454,545 29 460,091 33 483,636
26 158,182 30 172,727 34 487,273
27 461,818 31 476,364 35 490,909
23 465,455 32 180,000 36 494,543
 APPENDIXi 185
WE1GHTS.
72 Grate = 1 Oitava = 2 Dram», Avoirdupois.
8 Oitavas = 1 Onça-, = 1 Ounoe „
16 Onças = 1 Arrátel, or libra.. = i Pound t,
32 Libras — 1 Arroba — 32 „ „
4 Arrobas = 1 Quintal — 128 „ ti
131 Quintais = 1 Ton, Portuguese.
17J Quintais.. = 1 Ton, Avoirdupois.
N.B. These weights are 1J per cent. heavier than those of England.
LIGUID MEASURE.
1 Quartilho, = 1| Gill, Eng. Irop.
4 Quartilhos « 1 Canada or 2} Pinta „
14 Canadas = 1 Almude or 4 Gallons n
23 Al mudes = 1 Pipa or 92 „ „
DRY MEASURE.
2 Selamins ......... — 1 Maquia.* .. or 1JJ Pints, Eng, Imp.
16 Maquias = 1 Alqueire......... or Peeks „
4 Alqueires m l Fanga or fi[ „ „
15 Pangas............ s 1 Moio... or 23£ Bushels M
CLOTH MEASURE.
1 Covado m 26i English Inches, or nearly J Yard.
1 Vara...... = 43 „ or l/r ,,
N.B. Woollens, silks, and printed cloths, are sold in Madeira by tbe Covado;
líneas, ribbons, and plaiu cottons, are sold by the Vara.
LONG MEASURE.
12 Linhas =s 1 Polegada or 1.1028 Inches, English,
8 Polegadas Palmo or 8,8224
1| Palmo. s 1 Pe or 13.2336 „
10 Palmos .... = l Braça or 2 Yds. 16.224 In.
2,500 Braças ..... = 1 Legoa or 6,116 Yards
18 Legoas..... = 1 Grão or 62 Miles, 968 Yds,
20 Legoas = 1 Degree» Eng. ... or 69$ Miles
N,B. The Portuguese long measure is seldom u&ed in Madeira; the English
scale of feet and inches bting generally employed by builders, cabinet-
makers, &c. #
:se APPENDIX.

(JI.)—Page 110,
L ist of Dutizs, including aU CuxUnn-house scpmiscs, charged at
Madeira, on variou» Articlee imported from England, tchen
not forming part of the Luggage of Paseeng&rs arriving, or
not haviítg been in um.
COTTOX MANUFACTURES.
Àrtic*«, Duty,
Shirtings, plain, ordinary ..per 1b. 32 reis.
,, middling ,, 45
,t fine t, 76
,, coloured, or printed cloths „ 126
Cambrics, ordinary ,, 280
„ fine „ 379
Musiins, plain, ordinary „ 126
„ fine „ 280
tt coloured, or printed, ordinary „ 280
i» ii fine |, 379
Counterpanes „ 126
Stockings and Ilosiery n 280
UNEN MANUFACTURES.
Cambrics, in piece or Ilandkcrchief* ... per lb. 3,017 reis.
Díaper, Irtsh Line» ... „ 375 to 550
Holland, &c. „ 01
Duck, Osnaburgs, 8cc „ 71
SILK MANUFACTURES.
Gr os de Naples, Satin, &c ....per lb. 3,017 reis.
Ribbons, Gauze, Crape „ 4,625
Stockinga and other Ilosiery .. 4,813
BonncLs, made up each 3,142
Capa „ 1,885
N,B> On ali dresses or clothing made up of cotton, linen, or silk, four times
the amount of the foregoing duties ia charged.
WOOLLEN MANUFACTURES.
Cloths, black or coloured per lb. 378 reis.
Cassinettes, Serge, Flannel, Ariophanc, Kc. „ 315
Blank ets ,» 177
Ilosiery 378
Carpeting., ,, 252
N.R. On ali dresses, or under elothing made up of woollens, eight times the
amount of the foregoing duties is charged.
 APPESDIX. 1S7
LEATMER MANUFACTURES.
Artlclet. D»**-
Boots, men's . ...pair 2t012 reis.
„ woraen'» ...... „ 1,005
Shoes. Slippers, &c. .. n
•Saddles . each 3,821
Reins, Bridles, &c . . p«r lb. 375
PLATE AND PLATED AllTICLES.
*Plate, manufactured, plain per lb, 4,833 reis.
* „ omamcnted.. ,, 10,050
*Plated goods, plain or omaroentcd ,, 1,132
* „ gilt , 3,142
FUEN1TURE.
*Arnvchairs, cominon, straw scats .............. cach 1+260 reis.
* „ eovered in silk «» 3.060
* „ mabagany, plain, straw scats n M3*
* u eovered in silk........ . i 11,303
MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS.
•Guitars - eacii 2,312 reis.
•Harps «•»». tt 32,000
*Piano~fortes, square or oblong ....... * »» 27,OCO
* ,, upright ii 45,852
* „ grai)d «• ii 95,075
PROVISIONS, &C-
Butter. ......per arroba s= 32 Ibs. 1,018 reis,
Cheese, Pine or Che*hire i» 1,217
„ Stilton and Parmasan ..*** » 2,425
Figs, Raisina, and Dried Fruiu... u
Ham.% Bacon 955
Í<J
Bacon .. *» 7
Sweetmeats or Preserves n 1,018
Candles, Tallow.. «... » 1.520
t, Stearine or Cotnposite „ 2,425
M1SCELLANEOUS.
Books, unbound ......... Frce
„ bound per 1b. 026 reis.
Straw Bonnets, Tusean, with ribbons or flowers .♦ „ 11,313
l( „ plain ti 5,656 *
Dunstaple, omamented ,, 5,028
2 51
„ „ plain ...» rr ' 4
HaU, felt or silk, for men 1*280
Horses, above 134 hands each 15,224
f, 13i hands, or less » 9,290
Mares
188 APPENDIX,
Artlcles. Dutj>.
*Fowling-pieces, double each G,Q83
» single „ 4,575
Tin-work . per arroba = 32 lbs. „ 8,05fi
*Iron-work, polished or bronzed.,.......,, 2,014
*Mathero atícal and other Instruments 5 per cent.
N.B, Articlcs marked # are admitted, when furming part of passRiigers1
luggage, free of duty, on giving bond for tbeir reshipment within cighleen
luuutiks, or lhe amount of duty chargeuble on thcru being thcn jmid.

List of DMiu chargecl in England on variou» Arlíclee

importei! from Madeira,
ArtifiM. n,,,
Arrow-root per cwt. 5í.
B™a< í per cent.
Jiaskets and Wickcr-wotk ad valorem 10 per cent.
Birds . Frec.
Cnges, eane-wotk 4,ati valorem 10 per cent*
Coffee per 1b, 6d.
Feather-flowers (artificial) ad valorem 25 per cent.
Lace-work \2\ per cent.
Nuts per bushel 2s.
Onions (]^
O ranges, in boxes not exceeding 5,000 cub« in. per box 2í. 6dt
Preserves, dry or moist , ....per Ib. 6*í.
VValking-sticks or Canes
Wi,ie
ad valorem 10 per cent.
per gallon 5*. Gd.
Wood-work, Fancy Boxes, &e. ad valorem 10 per cent.
With 5 per cent. additional on the duties levied.
Dutios are charged aecording to the value of goods at theport of ímpertation,
and not according to the cost.

(N.)—Page 113.
List of Furnished Quintas and Iíouses usually to be let in and
around Funchal.
Under £50 for the Seaton.
Pt. ibore
Sflr. Pedro Jorge Monteiro^ jjg
Sflr. Ani, Jozé da Souza..... Portas Novas 86
Heíraof J. Ruffino... Santa Lusia 254
Mestre Francisco Val Formoso 394
Mr. John Payne Caminho da Torrinha 402
Sflr. Fr. A. da Silva . ............... Angustias . 77
 appendix. 189
From £50 to £75 for the Seeuon.
Silr. Roberto da Costa ConsoHçafl « Ft. abori»51G«e».
Sílr, Ricardo Fonseca Caminho da Torrinha -129
Siir, J. H, de Freitas .. ..... Caminho do Monte .. . 375
Sflr- Luis S, Anna Val, Caminho do Monte 311
Sfir. Alex, P. Cunha Val, Caminho do Monte , 323
Siir. A, Sarsfield Casa Branca .. 231
Miss Araujo Pombal.. j;2
Síír. H. d'Ornellas .. Pombal 145
Silr. J. Salustiano de Govea..... Nora 126
Sílr. Ant. Gomes Camacho Angustias ... 164
Mr. J, Johnson Travessa das Angustias 153
Sfír. F. A, Pestana....,...* llheos de Cima 239
From £75 to £100 for ths Seasott.
Sfir. Hathias Figueira Cam*, do Santa Luzia Velha... 283
Silr. Antonio Rabello ílose Cottage, Caminho du Til. 241
Silr. Alex. Ferreira Quinta d'Ambrósio..,......, 3.12
Síír. Fr. de Andrade Caminho da Torrinha 262
Silr. Severino F. de Freitas ............ Rua das Hortas 93
Sílr. Germano Soares Quinta das Rosas, Portas Novas 89
Síír. Ant. Ferreira Caminho do Meio 146
Silr. J. Caetano Jardim Caminho do Meio 200
Sfir, JoaÕ Joié da Camara .............. Nora Piquena 120
Sfír. Pedro J. Monteiro Achada 48
Silr. F. Hod". da Govêa Rua da Bella vista, Carreira.. 9#
Mr. J. Johnson Travessa das Angustias 142
Mr. Wm. Grant , Pontinha 18
From £100 to £l?5 for the Season.
Sfir JoaS Fr. Nunes Saltos.... 494
Sílr. Tii&taô da Camara Pinheiros 498
Sfír. Fr. de Andrade Caminho da Torrinha .......... 304
Sfir. F. Plácido da Veiga . Levada ., 494
Sílr. Morgado Vellosa Val Formoso......... 2BI
Sfír. J. F. dos Santos Val 347
Sfira. J. J. R. d'01iveira Val do Meio. 298
Sftr. Ant. Jozé Tangerina, lower Val 277
Dr. Mil ler Santa Luzia, Mount-road...... 262
Sfír. Alex. P. Cunha Caminho do Meio .. 202
Sílr. Fr. Jurino.. ; , Boa Vista, Caminho do Meio. 335
Sílr. Julio U. Fernandes llheos.... 123
Sfír. Manoel da Luz llheos....... 120
Mr. Wm. Newton llheos... 119
Sfír. Fr. L. Perreira Caminho Novo 1$8
From £125 to £150 for the Seaton.
Silr. C. A. Pimenta Quinta dos Saltos ................ 384
SfS*". Domingos A. da Costa Caminho da Torrinha 284
Sfír. Candido J. F. Abreu.Val 338
Silr. Sebastaã Leal Mount-road 219
190 ÀPFENDIX.
Pt. above Sri.
Morg, J. F. Florença* . Ilheos,,.,,, 119
5Ar. J. A. Bianchi Ilheos..,.. . 112
Mr, Wra. Newton . Bella Vista, ílheos 158
Dr. Coelho. Qa< Virgínia, Rua da Princeza 95
From £150 to £200 for the Season.
Silr. Alex. Ferreira Upper Ambrogio 368
Mr, Robt. Wallas «. Caminho da Torrinha ......... ÍSO
Heirs of late Dr. Renton, per Mr. ir*\yaj 3j5
Lundie ....í
Mr. J. Payne Ilheos da Cima 269
Síir. Luiz Gonsalves Quinta do Sa5 Joa5 482
Sfir. Pr. da Silva. Cabouqueira 141
Síir. Fred. Bianchi Caminho do Palheiro..... 369
rrom £200 Hpwarâa for the Season.
Mr. Geo. Stoddart Deanery, Santa Luzia Velha.. 245
Mr. T, C. Burnett............ Levada, Mount-road 503
Sílr. A. J. M. Basto Ílheos » 210
Síir. J. A. Bianchi Ilheos 233
The rental of these furnished houses fluctuates eomiderably, accordlng to
the existing demand. They may geucrally le obtained for a whole year
at nearly the some rates as are chargcd for the season, but are seldoxn lei
by the month, uníeis it be at a Iate period, or when fcw visitors arrive.

(O.)—Pngo 119.
List of Prorisiom, Qrocerte.i, Vegetables, Dry Gooás, tl-c., with
th':ir tt&ual Prices in Madeira.
ritovrsioN'3.
Bwf per Ib. 2 ri. to td.
Mutton ,, 2{<1. to 1-7
Hurk 4d. toírf.
Vcal SJrf. to JJ.
Hacoit p( >, 3^
il.ihg, York .t ]/.
l-srd lod,
Hiuter „ lj. to lt. 3J.
Cheegg ,, i» 3;f.
Fow Is per couple -i. 1 d. to 3r. bil.
Hucks 2,. 1 d. to 4i. 1d.
Turkcys „ eich 6a. to ]5j.
I"«rmdgcs per bracc ii. 6d, to ti. 2d.
Wgeoni „ 10J, to I». .3(1,
«uails J», to 1». 3d.
Woodcocks „ „ lt. Gd. to 3j. ii,
lUbbits to Srf.
 APPEND1X, 191
GKOCERtES, lc.
T-;?..... . .per ]b. St.
» grecn Jj.
CofTee „ Id. to lorf.
Sugar, cru&lied Jh }C",'.
moist 3J(Í.
Sago „ líirf.
Arrow-root ,, flj. to l\rí
"i« 2d. to Ad.
Flour ,, 3rf.
Raisins, Figí ph [c/y.
(.'Urraiits „ im.
Preserves .... t| ],.
Picklei bottlc f». 6rf.
Fish and other Sauces.... ........ ,, J#, 8d.
Canelles ... .per lb. 7\d.
„ composíte. ,, 1*. 8rf.
.* 3#. 4d.
Plain and Paney Bread, ítc.
FISH MOST ESTEEMED IX MADEIRA, WITH A VER AGE
WE1GHT AND PRICE.
Uiual ffrijtht.
Abrolei .. — 2 to 6 Ibs .,«..ettch 5<!. to lf. 3i,
Alfonsiiii, costa larga 2 to fl Ibs ad. to It. Jd
„ estreita 1 to 2 Ibs id. to M.
Anchova 2 tu 30 Ibs Sd. lo 2». Í!íj
Hora-negra 1 to 2 Ibs id. to 2d.
líodcam 2 lo 4.Ibs id. to <w.
Hodcjo 3 to 10 Ibs U.toSii.
JloqueiraS ] to 2 oi 20 for !d.
Carneiro 1 to 3 Ibs cnch 3/1. to 6ri
Cav»U«, mackrrtl lto2]hs J ror id.
therne, tpecles of Jetc-JIth,.,, 3 to 30 Ibs per lb. 2d. to M.
Chicharro, horie-macktreí j lb each li,
Coelho 1 to 3 Ibs.... ,. t"
Enchaleo 2 to H Ibs s<f. to (». 3d.
Aspada 2 to S Ibs. to ed.
Gullo, John Dory 2 to 4 Ibs id. to 1». 3íi.
Garopa, grouptr 1 to 2 Ibs 1. to 2 jd.
Goraz 2 to 6 Ibs M. to lOtf.
Guelro, KhitfbaU a plste full 5 d.
Pargo, bralzr 1 to 12 Ibs each Sd. to Ij, Sd.
Raquieme 1 to 2 11)5, Irf.toíjff.
Kuhaldo 2 to 4 Ibs ti d. to 6'.'
Salmonde, red mttilet 1 lb 5 for Sd. to Grf.
r<J= do alto 2 lo 4 Ibs enel) 1». 3d. to 2i„E<J.
Sardinha, sardinei a plate full 3
Saigo about 1 lb each 1 d. to IJrf.
Sema „ about 1 lb ti. to 1 j í/
Bolha, Jloundcr about 2 oí 10 for 3d. tt>Sd.
Pescada 2 to 10 Ibs each 5d. to 1*. M.
Tainha, grey mullet } |o 10 Ibs jií. to lt.
Tartaruga, tu file 0 to 50 Ibs id. to
CatnaraS, thrimpi a plate full íd.
192 APPENDIX.
VEGETABLE3, &c.
líeans, Broad ....per dish l^tf. to 3tf.
,, Freneh » 2^d. to 5tf,
Cabbages * *«-3 to G for 5d.
Carrots per dozen 2|rf. to 5d.
Cauliflowcrs „ * each ljrf. toJrf,
Chou-chou .per dish 5d.
Cucumbers ..eaeh \d. to 1M.
Lettuce . . per dozen to 4d.
Onions per 100 5rf. to 2*. Gd,
Peas, green * per dhli 2£d. to Gd.
Po ta toes, nev per 32 Ibs. 1*. 3d. to 2». Gd.
M old tt 1*' 6íí- 3*-
Pumpkins, old ...each 4d. to 8rf.
(t green >> Itf- to 2d.
Rartisbes ............... per dish irf, to 3tf.
Tomatoes, large 50 for 7d, to 1 s.
Turiiips * -per dozen Itf, to 3tf,
FRUITS, &c.
In Mason*
Apples, table Sept, to Jan 50 for Id. to 2*.
bakíng M. to »*•
Apricots May to July ....30 to 50 for 2£d,
jí-,nanas Tlie whole year...6 to 10 for 2Já,
Clierrfea * May to July ..........per lb. 1 d. to 2±d.
Chestnuts Sept. to Dec per 100 2d. to 5d.
Cuatard Applea ... Oet. to Jan. p-r dozen lOrf. to 2s, Gd.
Figs, various kinds ....... June to Nov, ..........30 for !</. to 5rf.
Gooseberrles, baking May to July per pint !$(/. to 2jd.
tirapes, large table Sept. to Nov per lb. 1 d. to 5d,
Guavas S-pt. to March ........50 for 2Jrf. to 5tf.
Lemona The whole year..8 to 12 for 2|t/.
Mediara * Oet. to Dec 50 for 2^d.
Melon» Aug. to Sept each 2jrf. to 1*. 3tf.
Oranges Oct. to April 50 for 5rf. to 1*. Srf.
M andar tn Nov. to Jan 10d. to 2** Itf.
Peaches July to Sept. ...10 to 15 for 2\d.
pears Aug, to Oct.............50 for 5tf. to 7$d.
„ baking Nov. to Dec...... „ 10tf. to 1*.
*. príckly (Cactus) .... July to Oct „ Ijtf. to4tf.
Pine Apples Sept, to Jan each S#. 4tf. to 8j. id.
Plums June to Aug. 50 for to 4d.
Strawberries. May to Aug per dish 2jtf. to 7±d.
Walnuts green Aug. to Oct 50 for l^tf. to 2±d.
„ dry 50 lo 80 for Òd.
ort per alqueire = 1 j peck 2t. 6d. to 3j. itf.
DRY GOODS, «TC.
Cottons—
Calico, I^ong cloths, .per vara Gd. to 1*. Sd,
„ Prints ...per eovado 4d. to 7tf.
 ÀFPENDJX. 193
Cottons, continued—
Muslins, book, mull, &c per vara 1#. to S*.
„ Prlnted Dresses ....each 7s, to 18#.
Skirts, corded ,, 1*. Sd. to3#. 4rf.
Hose per pair 10rf. to 2s.Qd.
Linens—
Cambrics, Scotch per vara 1«. 3rf, to 21. Gd.
Drítl 2s 6tL to 5>.
Ducks, Russian lí, to 2s. Grf.
Ginghams „ Gd. to 1#.
Irish Linen . ,, 3#. to 6*.
Lawns „ 1*. 10rf. to Gt.
Laco and Edging ....... „ Gd.toSs.
Slieetings „ 4*. Gd. to 6*.
Towclling. „ 1*. 8d. to 2s.
SHks—
Gras de Naples ..........per covado 2t. to 5*.
Ribbons, bonnet ..per vara 7d. to 2$. Gd.
„ gauze ,, 10d. to li. 3d.
Glotes, ailk per pair 1*. 8d. to 3#.
Tulle ....per covado 1#. 3d. Lo lt. 6d.
Wuollens—
Balzarine per covado 8d. to ]#.
Barèges „ 8rf. to U.
CloLhs.......... „ 12*. to 20*.
Cobourgs „ U. Gd. to 3*.
Crape *1 2s. Gd. to Gí.
De Laines •***»*«. ,v 7£d. to 1#.
Platineis ii 1*. Gd. to 3*.
Tweed, &c * „ 4*. to 6*.
Miscellaneous—
Straw Bomiets... each 4s. to 7*. Gd.
Kid Gloves .per pair 2s. to 3*.
Thread Gloves „ 10rf. to 1*. 3<í.
Unibrellas, silk .»»».. * .each 12*. to 21#,

(P.)—Page 140.
Time oceupied on líorsebach, at a Kttlking pace, or by a Four-
oared Boat during favourabh weatker, in various Excurnona
over the lsland, or (dong the Coast, qf Madeira.
b, fn.
From Funchal lo Boa Ventura, by Torrinhas 7 0
„ Brazen-head 1 0
H Ditto by boat 0 45
tl Calheta 8 0
„ Ditto, by boat 4 25
,, Camacha». «... 1 35
K
194 ÀPPENDIX.
b. m.
From Funchal to Cama de Lobos . * 1 30
Ditto, by boat 1 0
Campanarlo * ... 3 45
Ditto, by boat (to landing-place) 2 30
Canhas.. ..." 6 0
Ditto, by boat (to landing-plaee) 3 30
Caniçal, by boat 4 0
Caniço 1 15
Cape Giram, sumntit 3 15
Ditto, by boat.......... 2 0
Curral das Freiras, by Jardim . 3 0
Ditto» view of, by S. Antonio 2 0
Ditto, Church of, by S. Antonio ... 2 55
Curral dos Romeiros, by Rocket-road and Mount 2 15
Ditto, by Palheiro to Mount 2 45
Ericumiada de Sad Viçente,,..,. 5 45
Fayal, by Mount 5 0
Jardim da Serra 2 30
Lamaceiros 4 0
Machico ....... 4 0
Ditto, by boat. 3 0
Magdalena 6 30
Ditto, by boat 4 0
Mount Church 0 40
Palheiro do Ferreiro.. ....... 1 0
Ponta do Sol 5 30
Ditto, by boat 3 30
Porto da Cruz, via Lamaceiros 5 0
Ribeira Brava * 4 15
Ribeira Frio 3 0
Sant' Anna 6 30
Sant* Antonio and Sant' Amaro ...................... 1 30
Sant* Antonio da Serra 3 30
Santa Cruz 3 0
Ditto, by boat 2 0
Sad Jorge, via Sant' Anna 8 0
Sad Roque, and round by S, Amaro 1 45
Sa5 Viçente 7 30
Torrinhas, via Curral 4 15
£rom Sant* Anna to Arco de Sad Jorge 2 45
Boa Ventura 3 30
Faval ] 35
Machico Ivia Fortella 6 20
5 35
Fico Ruivo, summit 3 30
Ponta Delgada 4 0
Porto da Cruz.......... 3 10
Ribeiro Frio 3 20
Sant' Antonio da Serra fvii
via Lamaceiros . 5 0
tviia Feiteiras .... 5 45
Sad Jorge 1 30
SaS Viçente .. 5 45
 ÀtTESDlX. 195
b, m,
From Boa Ventura to Torrinhas, summit 3 0
,, Curral Church ...,. 1 lã
,i Funchal, via Curral 7 15
From Safl Jorge to Arco de Sa3 Jorge . 1 15
„ BoaVentura. 2 0
„ Sant* Anna . I 3°
„ Ponta Delgada 2 30
„ SaS Viçeute 1 15
t, Voltas (for víewing scenery). 1 30
From Machico to Caniçal, by boat, N. S. da Ficdade I o
„ SantaCruz .... * 1 ÍJ
„ Ditto, byboat ......... .. 0 45
„ Sant' Antonio da Serra 1 20
,, Portella .. *.«• 1 45
From Sant' Antonio da Serra to Santa Cruz, dircct 1 30
n „ Lamaceiros 0 50
f, „ Portella, via Lamaceiros 1 20
t, „ Porto da Cruz, via Lamaceiros 1 30
From Calheta to Faj5 da Ovelha .... . 3 o
„ Paul da Serra and Rabaçal 2 45
„ Paiii do Mar 4 0
„ Ponta do Pargo 5 o
From SaÔ VÍçente(from hotel)to Calheta... 7 0
M „ Paíil da Serra (ascent) 2 0
„ „ Ponta Delgada 1 45
„ „ Rabaçal .. 4 30
n „ Sant* Anna .. 5 45
„ Sa5 Jorge 4 15
„ „ Seiçal, by boat . 1 0
„ „ Bo& Ventura 2 15
Persons travelling in hammocks will find, by adding 15 minutes to evety
taour of the time occupied in performing the journeys on horseback, the
average period required for performing the same joumeys in a hammock.

Altitude of variou* Mountainx and HeighU in Madeira.

AltitudeFert
Engliah in
Camacha Church ......a, 2,203
Caniçal Fóssil Bed *• 254
„ N. S. da Piedade a. 342
Cape Giram 1|S34
Curral, bed of. b. 2,080
„ depth from above Jardim da Serra b. 1,634
Jardim da Serra ». 2,526
Lamaceiros Fass .. ... a. 2,181
Mirante, vista de Machico a. 1,768
Mount Church ▼. VG5
Palheiro... *»><»
196 Ar^ENDIX.
AltitudeFeet,
English in
Paul da Serra..» y, 4,611
Penha d'Águia ...... ........ ,.„v. 1,915
Pico do Arco v, 2,746
tt do Arieiro .....v. 5,893
„ do Arrebentad ...... „v. 3,844
,, das Bodes ... . * „„v. 5,725
„ do Canario y, 5,449
„ do Castanho v. 1,998
,, da Cru* ......v. 8,071
„ do Facho, Machico . ................... v. 1,980
ff Grande ........... ... ,.„v. 5,391
lf da Lagoa........... „ v. 4,76S
„ da Neve, Ice-house 5,346
„ da Ursa 4,611
„ Ruivo v. 6,050
„ S. Antonio . v. 5,706
„ do SidratS v. 5,500
„ das Torrinhas v. 5,980
Portella, Pass,,. a. 1,799
Roxtolho Moreira, N. of Machico v. 2,510
Sant' Anna Hotel v. 1,090
Sant' Antonio Church . .. „a. 941
Sant1 Antonio da Serra .....a, 2,059
Sant' Antonio da Serra, edge of Lagoa , ......a, 2,289
Sa3 Roque Church „ ...A. 1,129
The altitudes marked a. are asccrtaíned by an Aneroid barometer.
Those marked b. are from Bowdich'» Observaiíons.
Those marked v. are taken by Captains Vidal and Azevedo.
INDEX.

K 3
 INDEX.

A. a
Agoa Pé, 56. Calheta, 162.
Agricultura, 49; implerocnts of, 49; Camacha, 144.
im provem em s in, 50. Cama do Lobos, 154, 161.
Águia, Penha de, 149, 152; altitude Camara, appointment of the, 32 ; in-
of, 196. come of, 33, 171.
Alicant grapo, 61, Caniçal, 44, 118.
Altitude of variou» hills, &c., 195. Caniço, 146.
Amusements, 125. Cape Girara, 43, 161; altitude of,
Anchoragc, description of, 11, 195.
Arco, de SaS Jorge, 153,159; de Cal- Carreira, 27,
heta, 163, Casa da Misericórdia, or hospital,
Arrow-root, cultivation of, 65. 30, 170.
Atmosphere, temperature of, 79, 81 ; Caseiros, 52.
hygrometrical condi tion of, 83. Cathedral, 19; collegiate chapter of,
173.
B. Cemetery, English, 28; Portuguese,
14, 29,
Balis, 122, 125. Census, of Madeira, and Porto Santo,
Barley, cultivation of, 49. 10; table of, 16?,
Barometrical ob&ervations, table of. Chapeis, British, 27, 123.
85, Cliemists, 128.
Beach, appearance of, 26. Chureh-librarios, 133.
Bemfeitorias, 53. Churches, Portuguese, 18, 20; Eng
I ísh, 27, 123.
Boarding-houses, 111; cliargeg at, Citron, cultivation and preparatimi
112. of, 64.
Boating, 118, Clark (Sir James), remarks on the
Boats, inode of landing in, 17 ; ap- climate of Madeira, &i\, 89, 179.
pearance of, 26. Clifton, temperature of, 88.
Boa Ventura, 153, 158. Climate of Madeiro, salubrity of, 7J,
Boa Vista, 152. 8!>; eflects on pulmonary diseases,
Brazen-liead, 11. 94; remarks ou, 71, 90, 178."
British Chapei, 27, 123. Clothing, 105.
Britisli Chapluiticy, la ws relating to, Clubs, 122,
168. Coehineal, cultivation of, 67,
British population, 10, 168. Coffee, cultivation of, 65,
BÚal wine, 58. Columbus, marriage of, 2; resideuce
Burgundj -Madeira wine, 59. of at Forto Santo, 2; at Funchal,
Burying-grounds, 28. 31.
200 INDEX.
Commerce, 9, 62, 175. Floods, 24.
Comiuercial-rootns, 122. Florence, temperature of, 88.
Consumption, eflects of the climate Flowers, 70.
on, 94; table of cases of, 95—98, Foàsil-bed, 44.
Convents, 20. Fothergil] (Dr>), notices of climate,
Corivevances, from England, 102, 178.
134; in Madeira, 117; from Ma- Fruits, different varieties of, 64;
deira, 128, priees of, 192.
Corn, cultivation of, 50; quantity Funchal, founded hy Zargo, 18; bis-
produced» 50, tory of, 19; origin of name, 18;
Cove (Cork), temperature of, 88. distance of from varíous places,
Crater, extiuct, at S. A, da Serra, 18; made a cily, 19; a bishopric,
145. 19 ; occupation of by French, 7—
Crops, 49, 20; descriptíon of, 23; cxcursions
Cultivation, 46t 49. from, 143, 155,
Curral, das Freiras* 156, 160; dos Furnished houses, 113; list of, 188.
Romeiros, 141,
Currencv, 106; tahles of, 183.
Custom-house, 14; examination of G.
luggage at, 109 ; receipts of, 178. Garajáo, 11.
Gardens, 69.
D. Garrison, 32,
Geology, 41.
Date-tree, 146* Giratn Cape, 43,
Desertas, 6, 67. Gourlav <Dr.}, notices of climate,
Dewpoint, table of, 83. 71, 178.
Dews, 72. Governor, improvements effected by
Diseovery of Madeira, 2; of Porto the present, 32, 139,
Santo, 2. Grapes, cultivation of, 54; difTerent
Discas es of Madeira, 89. kinds of, 57, 61,
DUtances, table of, 103. Grocerles, stores for, 120; priees of,
Drapers, list of, 120, 191.
Druggists, 128. GurgulhOj 142.
Duties chargcd at Madeira on im~
portí, 110; table of, 186, H,
Hammocks, 117.
E. Heights, altitude of difTerent, 195.
Heineken (Dr.), notices of climate,
Elastic force of vapour, table of, 83, 71, 178.
Eraigration from Madeira, 10; table History of the discovery of Ma-
of, 168. deira, 2.
Encutniada of SaS Vicente, 157. Horses, cost of, 114; expense of
Kntails, 52. keeping, 115; of liiring, 116,
Entroza, 153, 159, Hospitais, 30, 169.
Estreito, de Cama de Lobos, 155. Hotels, 111.
Exchange, loss on, 106, table of, Houses, descriptíon of furnished,
184. 113; list of, 188.
Excursions, 140; preparalions ne- Hugueuots, occupation of Funchal
cessary for, 143» by, 7.
Exporte, of wine, 62, 175 ; of citron, Hygrometrical observations, table
64 ; of oranges, 65. , of, 83,
F. I.
Fajãa da Ovelha, 153. Impressione on landing, 15.
Fares to Madeira, 103, 104. Improvements, 33,
Fayal, 150» 152. Inhabitants, number of, 10; de-
Feiteiras, 154, scription of, 34,
Fish, 46; liít, and priees of, 191. Instruments, agricultural, 49; posi-
Fi&híng, 119. Lion of metcorological, 77.
 INliEX. 201
Inund&tíons» 24. Manufactures, 39.
Invalids, advice 10, 125; medicai Marriages, table of, 167.
directions for, 126—130. Mason (Dr.), remarks on the climate
Ironmongers, 121. of Madeira, 73, 76.
írrigatiou, system of» 46. Measures, tables of, 185.
Medicai directions for invalida. 126»
130.
J. Medicai practttioners, list of, 127.
Medicines, 127, 134.
Jardiné da Serrai 155; altitude of, Meio-Metade, valley of, 154.
195. Meteorological observations, 77;
Jersey, temperature of, 88. tables of, 79.
Jesuits, arrival of, 20; collegc Moisture, 73.
founded by, 20; expulsion of, 20. Monasteries, 30.
Monies current in Madeira, 106;
tables of, 183.
L. Morgados, 52.
Mortality, table of, 167.
Mountains, &c. altitude of variou*,
Lagoa, of S. A. da Serra, 145* 105.
Lamaceiros, 149. Mount-church, 15, 141; altitude of,
Laiul, tenure of, 52. 195.
Landi ng, impressiona on, 15 ; mode Mules, 26; charges for sumpter, 143.
of, 17; charges on, 108. Muniripality, appointment of, 32;
Lauíllord and tcnant, 52. reeeipts and expenditure of, 33,
Latitude of Funchal 18. 171.
Lazare Uo, 13, 146. Muscatcl grape, 61.
Leste, effects of, 76; Dr. Matou > Music, 39.
remarks on, 76; tables of, >1,82. Musical instrumenta, 38.
Levadas, 46; of Rabaçal, 47, 164;
of Furado, 4$. N.
Librarics, 122, 123.
Literature, 39, 123. Naples, temperature of, 88.
London, temperatura of, 88. Natives. appearanct and dress of,
Longitude of Funchal, 18. 34} religion of, 36; music of, 38;
Loo Rock, 13. education of, 39.
Luggage, charges on landtng, 100; Natural history, 44.
on leavíng, 129 ; examination of Negrinho wine, 61.
at custom-house, 109; dock charges New road, 139, 141.
on at Southampton, 105. Nice, temperature of, 88.
Lund (Dr.) on pulmonary dígeases,
94; advice to invalids, 130.
O.
M, Opticians, 121.
M'Euen, remarks on líinds, &c*, 74. Orangcs, cultivation of, 64.
Machico, 6, 147. Outfit, 105.
Machin, Madeira said to be dis- Oxen» 20; hire of, 118.
covered by, 2.
Madeira, history of discovery, 1; P.
known to Phaemctaiui, 1; extent
and form of, 3; description of, 4 ; Fackets to Madeira, 102.
general appearanco of, 4, 6, IIf Palanquins» 117.
invasion of by Huguenots, 7; oc- Paih«iro dos Ferreiros, 140.
cupation or by Britjsh, 9; popu~ Palhete wine, 60,
latíon of, 10, 167; climate of, 71» Palm-trces, 146.
89, 178; diseases of» 89; coavey- Fassage to Madeira, 102; to Eng-
ances to, 102* land» &e., 128.
Maiis, 107. Passports, 108, 129.
Malaga, temperatura of, 88, 180, 182. Pau, temperature of, 88.
Malmsey wine, 57. Paiilda Serra, 163; altitude of, 196.
Malta, temperature of, 88.
20 2 INDEX.
Paul do liar. 103. Ribeiro Frio, 153.
Peasantry, 35» 37. Rides, 138.
Penha cl'Águia, 149, 152; altitude lliding. 114.
of, 196. Rivers, 23.
Penzanee, tempcrature of, 83, Roads, construction of, 138; to Cama
Perestrello, discoverv of Porto Santo de Lobos, 139.
by, 2. Rome, tempcrature of, 88.
Perfumery, store for, 120.
Pew rents, 124.
Phccnicians, .Madeira supposed to be S.
known to, 1.
Pic-nics, 125. Salubrity of the climate of Madeira,
Pico Ruivo, 152, 160; altitude of, 71, 89, I78r
196. Sant*1 Atnaro, 110.
Pisa, temperatura of, 88. Sant Anna, 149, 150.
Pliny, Madeira mentioned by, 2. Sant" Antonio, 140.
Poiao, 154, Sant' Antonio da Serra, 144.
Ponta Delgada, 153. Santa Cru?,, 6, 14fi.
Ponta do Pargo, 163. Sa5 Jorge, 152.
Ponta do Sol, 162. Sa3 Lazaro Hospital, 30, 169.
Pontinha, 13. Sao Lourença Point, 4, 148.
Poor, asylum for, 33. Safl Lourenço Fort, 7, 14, 30.
Population, 10; table of, 167. Sa3 Roque, 142.
Portella, 148. SaJ5 Viçente, 155, 157, 164.
Porto da Cru*, 149, 150. Sercial wine, 58.
Porto Novo, 146. Serra d'Agoa, 156, 164.
Porto Santo, discovery of, 2. Scrrants, 114.
Potato, cultivation of, 66. Shops, 120.
Poultry, prices of, 190. Sirocco, 76.
Praças, 25. Sky, appearance of, 74.
Praya Formosa, 7. Slaves, 54.
Prazeres, 163. Sledge drivers, 27.
Press, la ws relating to the, 37, 172. Sledges, 26, 118.
Prices, tablcs of, 190. Soil, 46, 49.
Priesthood, 37. Stationery, store for, 120.
Processions, 37. Sugar, manufacture of, 53.
ProvUions, prices of, 190. Sugar-cane, introduction of, 53; cul-
Pulmonory disease*, remarks on, 94. tivation of, 53.
Purpurarise, the Madeiras known Surdo, or nun+s wine, 60.
as, 2.
T.
Q.
Table of con&umptive diseases, 95.
Quarantine establishment, 13. — thermometrical observa-
Quintas, 113; listof furnished, 188. tions, 79, 88, 182.
hygrometrical observations,
83.
R. — barométrica! observations,
85.
Rabaçal, 47, 163. prevailing winds, 86; com-
Rains, season of, 72; table of, 85. parative force, 74, 85.
Reading-rooms, 122. municipal receipt and ex-
Religion, 36. penditure, 171,
Rental of furnished houses, 113, —— exporta of wine, 175.
188, montes, weights, and mea-
Renton (Dr.), remarks on climate, sures, 183, 185.
71, 178. prices, 190.
Revenue, municipal, 33, 171; of distances, 193.
customs, 178. — altitudes, 195.
Ribeiro Brava, 162, Taveira, one of the discoverers of
Ribeiro da Janella, 47, 164. Madeira, 2.
Ribeiro dos Soccoridos, 155, 161. Tea-plant, 67, 155,
 INDEX. 203
Temperature of Madeira, Í9, 85; of Vessels, to Madeira, 102; entríes of
dinerent places, 88. at Funchal, 177.
Tennnts, 52- Vine» cultivation of, 54; introductíon
Teneriffe, excursion to, 12C; tem- of, 55.
perature of, 183. Vineyards, 52,
Tenurc of lands, 52. Vintage, 55.
Theatre, 31,125. Voltas, 153,
Tinta, and Tinto wines, 59. Voyage, medicai directions during,
Torquay, temperature of, 85. 130.
Torrinhas, 156, 150.
Tour of the island, 138, 155. W.
Trades-people, list of principal, 120.
Trees indigenous to Madeira, 68. Washing, 25; chargcs for, 112.
Tunnel of Rabaçal, 47,164. Water-courses, 46.
TwlHght, duration of, 73. Waterfall, excursion to the, 142.
"VVeights, &c., tablc of, 185.
U, Winds, Leste, 76, 8), 82 í compara-
tive force of, 74,85; trade winds,
UnderclifT (Isle of Wight), tempera- 75; prevailing winds, 8C.
Win es, manufacture of, 55; descrip-
ture of, 88. tíon of, 57; exports of, 62, 175.
Wine-shops, 121.
V,
Vapour, elastic force of, 83. Z.
Vegetahles, 66; list and usual cost Zarpo, discoverer of Madeira, 2;
of, 192. origin of nanie, 2; portrait of in
Verdelho wine, CO. Funchal, 31.

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